[May 17-19,1812?]
This is one of the [wor]st Eddies in the River [and] aught
carefully to be guarded against by hug[ging] the left shore very close,
the River turns short to the left and opens very wide immediately
below the Eddy forms itself into two currents which are devided
by an Island the left being the Main channel in low water but the
right the nearest and best in flood
The navigation from Cape Gerardeau is very good—except at the
Grand Tower where the utmost caution should [be used] the
Current being both [swift?] and furious, it is best [to] pass as near
the Tower as you can with safety— James Rich settled on the right
bank at this place— Cape Gerardeau where I landed on the 17th is
a flourishing little Place situated most delightfully on an eminence
which command a fine view of the river, this place has another most
fertile tract of country Back of it, in that country which is filling up
very fast with emigrants from the neighboring States and bids fair
one day to become a Rich and flourishing place—
The Earthquakes were felt severely here having t[h]rown down,
or cracked every chimney in the place and Ruined two handsome
Brick Buildings which were not quite finished-
Left the Cape on the 18 and passd the settlement of Tiwappita, which
is very considerable on the right Bank—at the Lower end of the
settlemt took leave of the last high Land which appears on the
Right Bank of the River from this place to the Balize landed
near the mouth of Ohio on the Right Bank— the next day passd
by the mouth of Ohio and stopt a fiew hours at Birds to get some
vegetables &c found them very obligeing and hospitable, while I
lay here a chorus pasd. by from Pittsburgh—and put off just as a
second one was coming out of the Ohio with which we floated in
company the Balance of the day she was from Marrietta The Missippi
is not as wide nor by any means has so beautifull and Majestic
appearance as the Ohio has at their junction had a short glimpse of
the clear pelucid water of the Ohio as I passd between the two currents
which however onefy servd- to highten the thick muddy appearance
of the Mississippi by the forcible contrast which the aproximation
of the two waters presented—
The settlements from the mouth of Ohio are very thin and
wretched the Land on the Right shore being so low and swampy as
to be unfit for cultivation and that of the left belonging to the
Chickasha nation of Indians— made a good landing about sun
down on Wolf Island at the House of a Mr Hunter, who was rather
More than hospitable being anxious to reclaim by his acts of
apparently disinterested hospitality, that character which some of his
deeds while living near N Madrid had renderd suspitious.
The next day the 19th landed at N Madred—
The Philanthropic emotions of the soul are never more
powerfully exercised than when called on [to] witness some great and
general calamity originating either in the cupidity and oppression
of Governments which envolves the defenceless Subject in Misery
and want andw even renders his life Precarious, or in the wise
Dispensations of Providence who withholding the ordinary aid in
bringing to maturity the natural productions of the husbanman
with Famine or puting in motion the terrible engines of his Power
and by some extraordinary convulsions throwing a hitherto fertile
country into dessolation and plunging such of the unfortunate
wretches who survive the ruin, into Misery and dispair.
These emotions I experianced when on landing at N. Madrid the
effects by the Earthquake were so prominently visible as well in
the sunken and shatered situation of the Houses, as in the
countenance of the fiew who remained to mourn over the ruins of their
prosperity and past happiness As I viewd. the present situation of
this place and reflected on the cause which desolated it I could not
refrain from heaving a sigh at its departed prosperity and at the
same time from regarding with fearfull astonishment the Force of
a Power sufficient thus to agitate the Earth—
The effects of the Earthquake began to be visible about 20 miles
above this place by the shattered state of the Bank of the River.
6 miles above this the Bed of the river rose on the night of the 7
Feby. the most severe shock which has been felt, and formed a kind
of falls very similar to the falls of Ohio, and re[n]dered the
navigation very dangerous untill the spring floods had washd. it away
being onely sand— There were a number of Boats lost at this
place, and many lives. The Banks are very much shattered and
sunken from this place to N. M where the Bank has sunk about
nine feet which reduces the former site of the Town, below
highwater mark, The shock of the 7 of Febry. altho not attended with
quite so terrible a catastrophy, yet excited all the horrors of the most
violent, and distructive Earthquakes in those who were at this
place—the agitation was so great that a man could not stand without
holding on by something and the Mississippi rose in an instant 15
feet which brought the water all round and in some of the Houses,
which justified the Idea that the whole country was sinking, and as
there was no high land to fly to they considered themselves as lost—
happily however there was not many lives Lost, an unfortunate
family who were moveing down the River and had Landed here a
fiew days before was all lost by the overturning of their Boat which
was carried with a number of others some distance into the woods
and left dry by fall of the water,—
Having had occation to go out into the country twenty Miles to the
Big Perain [sic] I had an opportunity of seeing all damage which was
done—this is nothing compard to what has been reported tho
considerable, the Earth is very much crackd. all the way to the Perain and
perferated with holes of different sizes out of which emmence quantities
of white sand has been discharged mixt.d with a Kind [of] stone coal
which altho it resembles the common fossil coal in smell yet is more
regular in its grain and of a clearer Black and will not burn so
freely—
There is not in any of these places the smallest appearance of
Volcanic Matter tho. there are numbers of marks of the most violent
operation of heat—as well in the coal which was discharged as in
a kind of Sinder which has been found in small quantities—
[At this point the diary was abandoned. A somewhat bombastic
oration, perhaps suggested by the Fourth of July, follows. Then
come various items of expense, too fragmentary for reproduction, for
August, September, and October. These are followed by the itinerary
of February [1813?], probably written on Austin's return from New
Orleans.]
Feby. 1 Started from Natchez crossd. St. Catherines Creek and
came to Washington 6 miles—about 60 Houses Built of wood in one
street. Since the depretiation of Cotton the place has declind it is
the seat of government for the M. T. and for the county—The
Country in the neighborhood is very hilly and the old improved
farms so much washd and gull[i]ed as to be unfit for use—
Horse Shoe ___________________ 4.
Natchez Irvans________________ 4 1/2 Day
Feby 1 Greenville Bradfords___ 1.37 1/2
The genl Face of the country through out this part of the Tery
is uneven it being difficult to get a field of 20 Acres of Level Land,
the soil notwithstanding is very good and produces well for a
fiew years until wash.d away by the rain—Cotton Corn wheat
&c—There are at Washington a set of Barracks for Troops—6
Miles beyond we came to Salcres Town about 10 Houses miserable
looking place, passd. on to Union Town 6 miles further about 12
Houses stopd. at the Tavern but on being told that neither Hay nor
Fodder was to be got we pushd on to Greenville 7 Miles further
making 25 miles from N. 3 Miles past Union we crossd. Coles
Creek very bad ford quicksand—On left hand side passd. the
Plantation of Cato Weston The Face of the country continues the same
and the settlement become more thin
Feby. 2d Started from Mr Bradfords in G where we got well
accommodated and 5 miles on crossd the chubby Fork of Coles Creek very
deep Ford and great danger getting mired in the quicksands stopd.
3 miles further at ______ and took Breakfast—Greenville is the seat
of justice for Jefferson County and is a pleasant Little Town
containing about 30 Houses this was formerly the property of Abijah
Hunt whose estate is said to be worth after all his debts are paid
about 500 000 Dolls 12 miles from Greenville we came to Port Gipson
a small Town on the Bayou Peire containing about 60 Houses some
very well Built and finished the Bayou is navigable for Flat Boats
up to the place when the River is up and when Cotton was up a
great deal of business was done here,—this will one day become a
place of considerable importance it is now the seat of Governt. for
Claiborne County Abijah Hunt sold a Plantation near this place
for 70 000—The General face of the Country from Greenville and
in the neighborhood of this place is hilly and the soil good—Ferryd
the Bayou about 20 yds and stopd. 3 Miles further at the widow
whites where one of the company having business we put up for the
day—and were well accommodated
Feby 3d Started from Mrs. Whites and went on,to the Line to
McRavens—the Country not quite so Hilly but soil very thin and Pine
woods. Feby 4 Started from the line and made the first stand
Osburns before sunset 37 miles Pine woods pass.d some Indian Houses
who had small farms this days travel very miserable to me as I
was taken with a violent toothache and my horse got Lame in his
fore foot, weather pleasant—pass.d 5 Creeks and got tolerable fare
at Osburns and started before day and went on to Bachears to
Breakfast, good—he is a white man who has been living with the indians
about 20 years married a scaw [sic] Pass.d the Agent Dinsmore
other side of B— Passed number Indian Houses and a Bolo Alley
this [is] a great Play with them and is similar to Red Bandy—
Passd an Indian H where Mourning Poles were up when an indian
died his wives or relations put up a long Poll hung with hoops or
wrethes of grape vine to which the friends of the decease cry.d or
howl.d night and morning these Polls are kept up 5 or 6 months
when they are burnt and the Relations end their mourning by
burning the Poles and getting Drunk and having a great frolic—went
on to Nortons where we staid all night. 40 miles, no Fodder
plenty of Corn, got but indifferent fair, had to sleep on the Floor
and got up in the morning more fatigued than when I lay down,
Started by day Light, and went 20 miles to an Indian Hut where we
got a Kettle and made Coffee and fry.d Sausages &c for Breakfast
Pass.d an Indian House where two Scaws were howling, crying over
the grave of their husband—went on to Leflor's. Frenchman who
married a sqaw. 42 miles got good fare for Horses but miserable for
our selves, we here discover.d that Heydens mare got foundered at
Nortons, started early and went to L. Leflor's where stop.d for
Break[fast] good fare for Man and Horse. Heydens swap.d his
mare for a small Spanish Poney which detain.d us untill afternoon
when we started and 7 Miles on Met the Troops under the command
of Col. Coffee encamp.d at Mr Curtises—there is 666 of them went
on 5 miles further to Mitchels where we stop.d and got very good Fare
for selves and Horses—Poor Pine Country weather fine.