List of namesMestre Nicolas Costé, in the
Rue de la Heaumerie, at the
sign of St Claude / Mirrors.Mestre Jehan Cousin, who resides in
the Faubourg Saint-Germain, knows of the
master.Mestre Jehan Garnier, in the Rue des
Escrivains by St Jacques de la Boucherie,currier. Try pastel woad flowers.
List
The harvester that leaves some ears is not
blamed.Sacra Eleusinae deae propalare
nefas.
Trumpets, see the book of funerals.
List of books and authorsVuolfangus LaziusPetrus Appianus,mathematicusIngolstadiensis, Comment. urb.
rom.Hieronimo RuscelliHermolaus BarbarusAngelius Bargaeus,De aucupio et
venationeNicolaus DamascenusCaresariensis,De rebus
PersarumIsidorusOsoriusEupolemus,historicus gentilis
qui de rebus Davidis & Salomonis
scripsitmonsieur
- Cathalogue des
villesCalendrier des bergiersGrammaire italieneArithmetique of SavonneInstruction pour le faict des financesQuestions ænigmatiquesDes præceptes d’agriculture
+ Le secret des finances à
LyonSynesiusOlaus Magnus
+ Mestre Bernard Palissi,inventor of rustic
figulines to the
king and the queen motherAlexander AphrodisaeusPolydorus VergiliusAppianusAthenaeusPausaniasStatiusThebaidosServius,in AeneidemMacrobiusAulus GelliusAlexander ab AlexandriaFestusNoniusMagius,MiscellaneaPollux,OnomasticonHiginusBerosusSuetoniusValerius MaximusCornelius TacitusXenophonSenecaDionisius HalicarnassensisSabellicuscum permultis
aliisJulius CapitolinusBudaeusSpartianusBlondusVolaterranusHerodotusPaulus ManutiusStraboIulius FirmicusQuintus CurtiusDionCornelius NeposFlavius Vopiscus
List of booksAquatilium animalium historiae, Hypolito
Salviano Typhernate authore, Romae 1554
Les Annales de
Normandie
For loosening the bellyPrunes of Saint Antonin, & if you like
you want put among them leaves of mallow &
gilliflower, adding in sugar &, if one wants, a
little cinnamonfor the stomach.Or else marshmallow root in a chicken
broth. The fresh kind is more mollifying.Beating syrup of sweet jujubes with water &
taking it in the morningloosens the belly.
Books to recover
The chronicles of Sigebert
Ruffinus
IreniusIn
Exegesi
Paule Emile
Paule Jove
Polydorus
Bergomensis
Philippe de Commines
Against painsTurpentine oil, oil of Jacob, and salt extracted
from cabbage ash.
List of booksPractica, cioè nova inventione di contegiare, stampata in
Brescia per Vincenzo Sabio.
Emeralds of BrissacI have taken minium, 26 ℥,
crystal and ground on marble 12
℥, verdet 3
|ʒ|. Incorporate all together, put in a
crucible covered with another, well luted, that has a hole in the
top. Fusion 7 hours without blowing. The mass
was of a beautiful green.I have taken minium 12 ℥,
crystal 6 ℥, verdet 2
grains. Soft fusion vi hours, refired
24 hours. The mass was green, yellow &
red.
SapphirePebbles or crystal 8 ℥,
minium 16 ℥, blacksmith’s
salt 4 ℥, sparkling
coryal 4
grains. Fusion 6hours.
Counterfeit coral
+
One needs to first make the branches of wood or take a
bizarre thorn branch, then melt a lb of the most
beautiful clear pitch resin and put in one ounce of
subtly ground vermilion with walnut oil, and if
you add in a little Venicelaque platte, the
color will be more vivid, and stir everything in the resin melted
over a charcoal fire and not of flame, for fear that it catches fire.
Next dip in your branches while turning, & if any filaments
should remain on it, turn the branch over the heat of the
charcoal.Colophony is nothing other than recooked resin. To do
it well, take a leaded pot & melt the resin,
& boil it over the brazier a good hour,
& until it appears not to be thick, but clear & liquid like
water, & easily runs & flows from the tip of a
stick with which you grind it, & test it. Then pour it
through a coarse canvas or a very light tammy
cloth, such that when pouring it falls into the
strongest vinegar that you can find, for the vinegar gives
it strength & prevents it from being so fragile. Reiterate this two
or three times & it will be beautiful & well purified. For
counterfeiting your coral, you can mix a quarter part of
mastic into your purified resin to render it more firm
and more beautiful, & if you were to take a single tear of
mastic, it would be all the better, but it would be too long.
Sulfur & vermilion makes the same effect.
The coral made of gules red enamel endures the
file and polishing.
It is made like cement that is stronger mixed with pestledthan of glass rather than with brick. Thus, here one
mixes well pestledgules red enamel, which
is red in body, with the vermilion. Thus with all colors of
enamels.
Varnish for panels
Take a lb of Venice turpentine & heat
it in a pot until it simmers, and put in half a lb of
the turpentine oil of the whitest you can find, and stir it
together well on a charcoal fire and take it off immediately. And
elle it is done. But if it seems too thick to you,
add in a little more oil. Similarly if it is too clear, you can
thicken it by putting in a little turpentine. Thus you will give it
whatever body you want. It could be made well without fire, but, when
heated, it is more desiccative. It is appropriate for panel paintings
and other painted things without corrupting the colors or yellowing. And
it dries both in the shade and in the sun, and
overnight, and during the winter as well as
in the summer. It is commonly sold 15 sous a
lb.
A little more turpentine than turpentine oil is needed in
order to give body to the varnish, which needs to be applied with
the finger in order to spread it thinner and less thick,
for when it is thick, it turns yellow and sticks. One does not
varnish to make paintings shine, for it just takes the light out
of them.
But it is used to heighten colors which have soaked in and to keep them
from dust. Mastic varnish does not resist rain,
whereas that of oil and rosin does.
Thick varnish for planks
There is a varnish that takes a long time to dry &
drips more than two months after it has been applied to the
planks. But this one does not drip like that of times
past, which was made of linseed oil, garlic boiled in it
to extinguish it & rid it of grease,
& with wheat. And this one yellowed &
rendered greenish the blue color of paintings. This one is made like the
other one except that one puts coarse common turpentine
instead of fine turpentine. And you can put into two
lb of toucommon turpentine one lb
of fine turpentine oil & do everything as with the other one. This one
will cost you no more than five or six sous per
lb & is sold for 40 sous per
lb.This vessel is for making large quantities of
turpentine oil, that is to say a bucket an
hour, and no matter which turpentine it may be,
whether fine or crude. One needs to give, as you know, a little
fire at the beginning and always keep cold water in the cooler
on the top. The lb is sold at xii sous, &
at the bottom of the vessel remains the colophony, or
pix graeca. In this vessel, eau-de-vie is also made well,
and there is no need to distill it again. You
do not need a oven for this copper vessel, but
only charcoal around it if it has a flat bottom, but if it is
round, you will place it on a trivet.
It is better to heat the varnish a little bit, rather than to
put it out in the sun, because this makes the panel
warp.
Some say it is not good to distil in this copper
vessel because it makes things green. However, when tinned, it is
good.
For varnishing
Turpentine varnish does not need any glue because it
is fatty & viscous & it is not absorbed in the wood like that
of spike lavender & sandarac. Also, that of spike
lavender does not require any glue on iron &
similar things that do not absorb. But on wood & on colors
which havedo not havegum or
distemper glue, it is necessary to lay one coat of the said
hide glue & to let it dry & to
varnish.
Varnish of spike lavender oilOne needs to heat lavender spike oil & as it begins to
simmer, put in powdered sandarac gum so that it soon melts. And
over a charcoal fire stir continuously until the sandarac
is well melted, which you will know by taking a little of the said
varnish on a plate, and if it is fatty when you handle
it with a finger, it is ready. And for one lb
of lavender spike oil, you will put five ounces of
pulverized sandarac, although some only put in four
ounces, but this is neither so good nor so fatty. This one is
promptly dry. Frame makers, to avoid the trouble of polishing
their ebony, varnish it with this, as do guitar makers.
This is not as appropriate for panels as that of fine turpentine,
though it is good for the moldings of panels. One did not use to
varnish the landscape of a panel when linseed varnish was in use,
because it yellowed the landscape. But with that of
turpentine, one varnishes everywhere. You can put in
pulverized mastic extracted in tears or otherwise, & it will be
more dessicative, in place of sandarac.If you want to varnish on plaster or a wall, first put on
your very hot hide glue, because if were cold it
would not penetrate the wall, & when you would put your
varnish on, it would come off.Varnish of spike lavender oil is not as appropriate for colors as
that of turpentine, for spike lavender oilmakes them
dieeats away at the colors since it is too
penetrating.
For removing varnish from an old panel that is yellowish &
varnishing it anewTake white soap & sieved ashese, &
soak both in water. And with a sponge, take the said
ashes & soap & rub the panel with them. And as you
see that the old varnish is removed, throw a
bucket of water against the panel to clean it.
Next put it for a quarter of an hourin the
sun to make it dry and to revive the colors. Next, once the panel
is dry, you can spread your turpentine varnish on it.
Make sure the colors do not come off.
Black varnish for sword guard, bands for trunks,
&c
Take linseed oil or more cheaply, walnut
oil, and rid it of grease with garlic &
onions+hog’s
fennel, some also add bread crusts, which you will
boil in it for a good quarter of an hour. Next, put
in one lb of the oil thus boiled the size of a walnut of black
pitch & a double handful of grains of wheat, without
removing the garlic & onions, and let
it boil together for a good quarter of an hour. And
when the pitch is well melted & when the oil has body,
you can remove it from the fire. Then, to varnish, place your
iron over a low charcoal fire & apply your
varnish with a feather or a brush.
And when you see that it no longer smokes, it is done and your
varnish is dry.
For excellent black varnish, add two or three paternoster
beads of jet among the rest.
Some consider walnut oil better.
If there is a lot of varnish, it needs to boil for at least
half a day, for it is better the more it boils. It
is dangerous if it catches fire, if it goes over the top, and is
hard to extinguish. Make this therefore in a courtyard or an
open space.
In five or six lb of oil, one must put one lb
of galipot, which costs 4 sous, & some
peeled garlic cloves. This varnish in and of
itself is not black, but it blackens over the fire.
See below, around the 3rd part of this book,
after sands, in the chapter on furbishers.
Black varnish without fire, without disassembling the
harnesses or removing the bands from
trunks
Take varnish of spike lavender oil & mix in
soot black or lampblack, & without fire it will mix in
by itself. Varnish with a brush & it will soon be
dry. Turpentine varnish will be quite good, but it does not dry
as soon.
Varnish of iron etchersTake linseed oil or walnut oil
&, in place of black pitch, you will put in a little
pitch resin, & it needs to be cooked in the fashion of black
varnish on fire. And for applying it, heat your iron &
give it only one layer of varnish, & when it no longer
smokes, it is dry. Next engrave with a steel point
whatever you want. Next takesalt &
verdigris & mix as much of one as of the other in quite
strong vinegar & leave it for xx4 hours
before using it, & all will be tempered. Next spread some of this
liquor or sauce on the engraved object with a sponge
or linen & leave it thus for xx4
hours & it will be etched. But if you should
want to etch promptly, varnish all your work & boil it in the
said liquor, & it will promptly etch.
Steel mirrors
They are called of steel because in times
past they were commonly made of steel polished with
emery putty. But more easily, various kinds are made
with cuivre franc, which is rosette &
tin, because it is cast in a mold & made
round, concave, convex & however one likes, to represent various
forms.+So take halfrosette copper & halfsoft tin, that is to say fine, which has not yet been used.
Put them in a crucible, & first melt the copper
well. And once it is well melted, put in the tin and mix
together. Then cast in the mold, of white stone with no
eyelets, & anoint the mold with oil, & let
it be moderately warm. Then, having
molded your mirror, you can polish it in this way.Set one of these in plaster in order that it holds firmly,
& then put the other one over it with thin sand in between,
& rub one against the other, whether it be concave or flat, & thus you
will polish two at once. And if you want to polish them on both sides,
you only need to switch them, that is to say put the one that was
polishing into the plaster & the one that was in the
plaster to polish. After having polished them with the
arene you can soften them with Venice tripoli,
which should not be sandy, & next with
putty. You polish with
arene using water, but polishing with
tripoli & putty is done
dry. Once polished, you can set it.
Concave mirrors
The concave mirror composed in the aforesaid form produces an
endless number of pretty conceits which seem magic. If someone wants to see
oneself from behind, it is necessary to place the concave
mirror on the ground on its foot, & let it be at a slant;
next, look at it from one pace away. But if you
look at it close up, it will represent you the right way up but
with your face quite large & the hairs of your
beard as thick as
string & will represent a nipple as large as a plate, and
women can see the secret places that they do not
want to show to surgeons. It casts the representation out of
itself, and if you touchle lieu the eye of
the representation with your finger, another finger
will come against yours.You will make a light at night for someone quite far
away, if you place the concave mirror behind a candle
placed on the window. You will be able to read and write quite
far from the candle if you place it behind the candle
& place & turn the concavity toward you. If you put
the mirrorat the end of a table & a
candle on it, it will represent two lights on the
table for you. To see what is happening on a street,
shutter the window, whereby the more of it you can shut the
better it will be. Make a hole at the lower one, as wide as your little
finger, perfectly round, from one side to the other. Then
place a sheet of paper on the window
& let the middle of the sheet be over the hole.
Pierce the sheet in the same place as the hole & the same
size. After, place the concave face of the mirror toward the
hole, & it will represent to you all those who pass by in the
street on the sheet of paper. Similarly with
the pierced door of a closed room. You can make wavy ones
& triangular ones, in the fashion that Ptolemy describes, &
Archimedes. The concave one also sets fire to straw from
quite far away, and lights a candle with the sun. Also,
it heats through the reverberation of fire.
For bronzing in yellow and white
Take looking-glass tin and melt it. On half a lb of
this, put half an ounce of quicksilver, and remove it
all at once from the fire & grind it, and it will be like
ash. Grind Wash it quite well in clean water.
Next, grind it on marble & temper it with water of
ret hide glue. Next, apply to
your wooden candlesticks & any other work you like,
& burnish with the tooth. You can grind pin filings
& apply them with the said glue.
For laying down and seating burnished gold and giving red
or green or blue
Ceruse & lead white is not appropriate for polished
white nor for burnishing because it is fatty, but it is quite good for
or mat which is made with oil, mixing it with yellow
ocher & minepo & tempering
all of it with oil. And this or mat thus applied keeps
in the rain like gilded lead work & similar things.
Therefore for burnished gold take good chalk, quite white,
well ground, & tempered with distemper glue, & make
four layers of it, one after the other, on the wood. And once the
last is dry, rub it with prele, which is a
plant otherwise called horsetail, to render it well
polished. Next take fine boli armeni &
sanguine, as much of one as of the other, also lamb
tallow the size of a bean or a
pea depending on the quantity of bole, and a
little willow charcoal, or as much as the
tallow, & half a walnut shell full of
half-burned saffron. Some put in a little candy
sugar. Grind all together with water, & apply it without
gum or glue, & let it dry, & rub the place that
you want to gild with a piece of white cloth to better
smooth it, & when the rubbed place is a little shiny, it is a sign that
the gold will be carried well. Having rubbed, wash with a clean
paintbrush soaked in clear water the place that
you want to gild & immediately apply the gold, which you will
burnish once dry. And if you want to lay in rouge clair
& glaze with it de, grind Venice
laque platte on marble with
walnut or linseed oil. Once ground, mix
turpentine or spike lavender varnish & apply on the
gold with the paintbrush.
Brazilwood & laque ronde die. For
green, temper verdigris with walnut or
linseed oil & grind it, next mix in turpentine varnish
and not spike lavender varnish, which is not suitable for
verdigris. If you want to glaze with azure, it needs to be
set on burnished silver and take azur d’esmail,
&, without grinding, temper it with turpentine varnish &
apply it.
>
For gacachcagesYou can embellish them with enamel cannules of
various colors by covering the latten or iron wire with the said
cannules. These you will break neatly to the length that you
want if you slightly notch with a cutting file the place to
be broken, and they will not break at any other place. You can bend
them with a wood model over a
chafing-dish or else by the heat of the lamp. It can
also be drawn as long as you want in a small furnace made like
a reverberatory furnace but which is pierced on both sides. And
when the large cannule is red, they seize the hot end using
small pincers with a long beak, such that one prong of the beak
of the small pincers enters inside the end of the
cannule, & thus it is lengthened without becoming stopped, &
the other end of the cannule is held with the hand,
because it is not hot. When the cannule is stretched enough,
the one who works seated, having his furnace
the size of a carnation pot before him,
breaks it off & continues. This is for making
cannules for capes, which are cut, as said, with a
file. Glass button makers also avail themselves of
the said furnace.
Under the door is a grate that supports the lit charcoal, &
the ash is emptied by turning the furnace upside
down.
For stampings to
embellish and encrust or cover the edges of mirrors, the
tops of chests, or the friezes of bed valances
Etch with aquafortis on iron or copper
whatever you have pounced and drawn there, next clean it up with a
burin or chisel. Then pour soft tin
which has not been used onto polished marble & with a
wooden board, flatten it quite thin. Or else cast
it in tablet form like lead, or put it through a
roller press. Next lay your tin plate over the etched thing,
& over the tin plate put a piece of felt and
strike on top with a hammer. Then gild it in this way.
For gilding with gold color and tinselOnce you have gildedcolored, make your
stamping either in tin, as is said, or
in irondest or copper. You ought not
to put a layer of glue there as on wood, but take only
fatty oil, which is made in seven or eight daysin
the sun with walnut oil and lead white&
with, stirring it often, or cooking it on the fire if one is in
haste. Then, with the oil thus made fatty, grind a little lead
white, massicot & mine de plomb, at discretion, as much of one as of the other.
Minium gives color to the gold. Next, with this, you make
a layer of it evenly on your stamping, taking care not to fill the hollows.
And once it is almost dry, lay the gold leaf on it with
cotton. Such gold will hold up in the rain on
houses & elsewhere. And if you have gilded with tinsel, color
it with smoke of partridge or of yellow or red
cloth, & it will be beautiful like fine gold. You can
cover trunks, mirrors, valences & bedposts with colored
velvet or satin, then apply the gilded stampings
on top with strong glue.
For coloring stamped trunks
The stampings of sheets of copper or latten is made on engraved & carved
service tree wood, if one wants to spend less. And next, the stamped object is
colored with the aforesaid colors of lake, verdet,
azur d’esmail, & tempered in turpentine varnish.
But in the place you want to azure, lay down fer
blanc, which is more appropriate for an azure
background.
DoubletsGood dragon’s blood soaked in eau-de-vie
carries its mastic or glue in itself, as do
sap-green & saffron.
Fish glue or isinglassand
mouth glueIt is made from codfish skin, boiled rather than
being salted. Joinersglue their masterpieces
with it and guitar maker use it for delicate works.
It wants to be strongly beaten, then soaked gently in barely boiling
water.Mouth glue is made of parchment scrapings and
one uses it without fire, for glueingpaper or similar things,
wetting it with the mouth.
One beats it and soaks it in in eau-de-vieof
vinegarwhite winefor one
night, then one melts it on a slow fire. Others soak
it in eau-de-vie.
For giving the color of all kinds of metals to wood
& other things
Take touchstone & pumice stone as much of one as
of the other & grind them together & mix with a hide glue
stronger than that used for painting, & paint it on
whatever you like. Once dry, rub this layer with any metal
whatsoever, then burnish it.
Against windy colicTake a dozendried common walnuts &
throw them one after another into a good brazier where they may
catch fire, & take them out with small pincers, and let them burn
& flame well in the air, and extinguish them in a glass
of good wine. Next, let the wine cool and strain it,
& pour half of it, for six extinguished
walnuts are for one dose. Excellent cure
against the suffocation of the matrix.
For relieving the pain of
G.Take half a lb of finely pulverized golden & yellow
marcasite, half an ounce of storax, 4 lb
of urine, incorporate everything well together, little by little,
in a mortar, then boil all together quite thoroughly. But the
pot needs to be well covered in order that the fumes do not
exhale. Next distil the it isurine, imbibed &
separated by inclination, in an alembic, well-luted & covered
with a copper helmet & soak a linen
cloth with the said water & apply it lukewarm on the
pain.
Against gonorrheaAquae fabrorum antiquaelb i.,
boli Armeniae in tel tenuissimum pollinem redactae ℥.i., mellis
communisʒ.iii. coquantur ad mellis despumationem. Tum refrigerata colentur cum forti expressione
& de colatura utatur per injectionem.
Lettering of gold on paperWrite with fig tree milk then let it dry a
little, next lay the gold leaf, & once quite dry, rub with a
linen cloth and only the lettering will remain.
For bursting grenades and giving force to
fireworksPut among the powdersix times as much of
quicksilveranda sixth part of
quicksilver.
Tempering of balls for piercing armor of
proofHeat the lead ball as much as you can without melting it, and
when it will be very hot, temper it in the
strongest vinegar that you can. And do this four or five times.
Next, chop some lard very small & some linen also very
finely, mix all together & use it as wadding, and by a little force
& very precisely, force it into the arquebus or pistol. And
before firing, cha if possible, make it so that
the ball is hot.
For making a breach in a wallby
nightHaving made a hole in the wall as you know, put a
petard inside, charged with powder,
which should be as if lying down, & the other upright, then plug the
hole & give fire.
Polishing of the balas rubyIt is not polished with tripolibut like the
others, but with marcasite powder & oil.
Or and argent mouluYou need to calcine your fine gold with
☿ and then cleanse your amalgam well & make the
said mercury fly off. Next grind it on marble
with gum water. As for silver one needs to take it as
is & eat away at it with aquafortis, then take it out with a copper blade
& rinse it thoroughly and next grind it with gum water.
Polishing of stonesThere are three wheels for doing this, one of tin, one of
lead & one of fine copper. On the
cucopper wheel only the diamond,
the ruby, sapphire & oriental jacinth are
commonly cut co or polished. The
tin wheel is for more tender stones like emerald,
amethyst & others.
Mixture of PewterersBecause among the fine tin they quite often mix a half
of lead, which renders the tindeaf, to correct
this, they mix in latten filings to render it
sonorous.
Perfect amalgam
Take the most delicate grais you can & hollow it in
the middle. Put in an eighth part of ☿,
in & into this, while adding water, rub & wear down your
☾ or ☼ until the
substance becomes like paste & even harder. Next, if you want, eat
it away with good aquafortis, if it is
☾ or ♀. Then remelt it,
having taken it out as you know. The ☾ will have a
tint and, once melted, will leave some grains of
☼, & the ♀ will be
very beautiful & will have almost no crust.
PlowmanBecause millet is by nature very dry,
harvesters beat it most often at night in the cool
& by moonlight. Which could not be done with another
grain that is wetter, for one le must let the
sunbeams pass through, and one scarcely beats it until the sun is
approaching midday. Quickly after the millet is
cut, one needs to plow the earth because the root eats it & makes it lean as
much as if the millet was still standing. The ground
where the millet has been sown diminishes much
in its fertility & c, which one knows
wellat the next sowing that one makes after that. But above
all the grain called
pomole in Gascony or
baillard in France, makes the earth shake seven years later,
according to the common saying. Beans
improve & correct the soil, provided that one lets the roots & stems
rot in it.
PainterSome, after having laid down their color, soften it with the flat of a
feather. But the large paintbrush is best.
MerchantThey commonly have four books. The tyrant, which is a
formulary for apprentices, by which they can know how much
every item of merchandise costs & cofor how much
it should be sold. The second is the waste book, where they put down in
rough what they sell daily. The third is the sales book, where they
reduce to clean copy and put the retail account of what is contained in
the waste book. The fourth is the account book, which mentions the sale,
the balanced account, the bill & the term of payment, & to this one
l credence is given in court.
PaintersThey completely melt orpiment in a glass
bottle on very hot ashes, but it would be more appropriate to
sublimate orpiment in a long-necked matrass as for
making garnets. The orpiment thus turns red like red
enamel & one needs to first grind it damp because once completely
melted it is very lively & difficult to grind. Next, one can
br thin it, once dry, with oil & it will
make a deep yellow of heightened color. But to prevent orpiment
from dying with the other colors & to render it compatible with
these & to make it dry promptly, it is a secret held to be very rare to
calcine common salt & to grind it in.
Vert de terre is not used with oil.
MerchantThe rule that merchants are accustomed to keep in their
books, that is to say, the waste book, the sales book, and the ledger,
otherwise called the account book.
Waste book
And first, François du Cros owes from 2nd September
1581, for 1 cane of cambric at 8
livres per canne, I make this -- 8
lb t.Moved to the sales book at c. 25/François du Cros owes from 2nd September 1581,
for 1 canne of cambric at 8 livres
per canne, as appears in the waste book at c. 25Moved to the account book at c. 55 /François du Cros owes from 2nd September 1581,
for the merchandise taken by himself, as specified in detail in the
sales book, No. 7 at c. 55, the sum of 8 livres, of
which the said du Cros has made a bill on the said
day, to be paid on St. Andrew’s day next,
I make this -- 8 lb t.
Counterfeit jasper
Thin glass for this effect is very beautiful.Take horn from which one makes lanterns, quite thin, &
underneath make the figure of your jasper, cornalines,
& other stones, which will be a work more appropriate than on
glass, which is too shiny. And the horn presents a luster
& fatty polish like jasper.You know, as with scrapings of the said horn, the
roses can be imitated. The horn colors for
this jasper want to have a base with clear turpentine or
spike lavender varnish. And colors matte in body
are not so appropriate here, although they are very beautiful.One
needs to oil the unpainted reverse with spike
lavender oil.
You can encrust beds with it & on the joints you can throw the
filings of talc or of pins on the fresh cement of the said
joints. One needs to join them with gum ammoniac soaked in
vinegar. To better counterfeit mottled jasper, apply
wool with thick hairs dyed in diverse colors & intermingled.
After you have layered all the colors, scrape oblique lines on them,
then layer gold & silver leaf. If you layer on the
horn colors of turpentine, give it a base of silver
or of tin leaf. You can also filehorn & mix
it with strong glue, & layer it onto the joints of the
piece of horn, then even it with a joiner's plane.
Stil de grain yellowIt is made in Lyon from the juice of weld &
chalk mixed together or better yet with ceruse, which is
appropriate for distemper and oil.
RosesThese are counterfeited either with the scrapings of
horn used for lanterns, or with scrapings of
parchment, very clear & delicate & dyed & employed as you
know.
Purple color
Painters make it beautiful, making the first ground of
common azur, or better yet azur d’esmail, &
next they glaze it with lake, which will be more appropriate for
this if you mix in alum, which gives it a violet tint depending
on the quantity that you mix in.
Powder for hourglasses
It is made very fine & without being subject to rust & by
its weight able to flow; taking i lb of lead, melt it
and skim and purify it from its filth, then pour into it four
℥ of finely pulverized common salt, and
take good care that there be neither stones nor earth. And
immediately after you have poured it, mix continuously very well with an
iron until the lead and salt are well
incorporated, and lift it immediately from the fire, stirring
continuously. And if it seems too coarse, grind it on
marble and pass it through a fine sieve. Then
wash it so many times that the watersembl
becomes clear, throwing away that little powder which will swim
on it, renewing the water so many times that it stays entirely
uniform.
For painting in oil on taffetawithout the
oil runningOne needs to make a layer of batture, which is made
of well-cooked honey & turpentine of strong glue
soaked for 24 hours in water then gently
brought to boil so that it is hardly strong. Next stir in a little
honey to soften it, & make it boil all together. And on top
of this layer, which will soon be dry, you will be able to paint in
oil, which will soften the layer even more, and which can also
serve you to make a seat for gold. Alum water also
keeps oil from running.
Seat for gold leaf on parchment or
paperMake very clear starch glue & which does not show itself to have body.
And make thereof six or five layers, & on the last, once it is half dried,
apply your gold.
For cleaning gold leaf applied to ironRub your weapons or other gilt objects with dry horse
dung.
For whitening ceruseHard-boil eggs, divide them in half & take the yolk out,
& between the two halves of the white put a piece of
ceruse, & tie them together with thread. Then boil
in clear water, & it will become entirely black, & thus
the ceruse will be left well purified. Some reheat it over fire & it
becomes very white.
Painting esmail d’azur in oilThis is a secret that is hardly known to common painters.
Some take the most delicate they can & grind it with ceruse,
which binds it, and next prick with an awl in several places
the area they want to paint with azur d’esmail, in order that the
oil enters & leaks in, & ne does not
cause the azure, which in itself is heavy, to run. Others lay the
panel flat & put down the azure on it, which is also done
in distemper. The main thing is to grind it well on
marble, and before that, to have washed it thoroughly.
Some grind it with thoroughly with an egg yolk &
then wash it in five or six waters and lay it
on not with a paintbrush, which would be too soft, but
with a brush thoroughly softened & crimped,
& layering it thickly as if one were putting it down with a
trowel; settling down it evens out and flattens. I have
experienced that grinding azur d’esmail with egg
yolk & next washing it in several waters is
good. However, it loses a little of its vividness in the grinding of it.
I have also washed it in several waters &, when it
had settled a little, I removed the water, still
q blue, with a sponge and squeezed it into another
vesselthuswhere it settled, & from the
residue I had the ash, flower, and subtlest part of the
azure without grinding it, which is
the best, for in the grinding of it, it loses some of its tint. Those
who make it in Germany compound it like enamel, in large
pieces which they pestle, & pass through several sieves
& wash.To make azures beautiful, they wash or soak them in a
rock water, as they call it; it is a
water distilled from mines where azure or vert
d’azur is found, which distills naturally through the
veins of the mountain or is distilled through an
alembicpar from mineral stones of
azure or copper.Azure ashes are only good for landscapes because
they die in oil. Only true azure holds on. Azur
d’esmail cannot be worked if it is too coarse. Try it, therefore, on
the fingernail or the oil palette. If
it happens to be sandy, do not grind it except with
the egg yolk or, better yet, wash it in clear
water & with a sponge remove the colored
water after it starts to go to the bottom, and in this manner
you will extract the very delicate flower, which will be easy to work
with.
Color of Damascus steel on knivesRub the steel with common aquafortis, mixing the said
water with earth & next rub the whole with
ashes or sand & the gold
& the silver will touch as on a
touchstone.
For getting rid of the redness of eyes or bruisingMake two small thin slices of raw mutton flesh,
& with a head band, apply to the eyesat
night.
For coating with or matThere is nothing better than the black varnish of
furbishers to make a seat
because it dries immediately & makes the gold appear very
beautiful.
For diamond points for engraving
These are for tracing what you want to draw on stones &
engraving, & when these points are fatty & cannot bite,
one needs to rub them diamond against diamond. One rubs
them with diamondpumice stone powder. One
needs also to unpolish on a lead wheel either the
stone or the glass on which you want to engrave, for the
polish, which is like varnish on glass, prevents the
diamond or sapphire from biting well. But This
is why it does not bite easily on the nail, which is
polished & fatty. But when the polish is taken off, it bites
easily.
Polishing wheel of copperBefore polishing your stone on it, it is necessary to degrease
ter it well, rubbing it with a piece of
leatheren tour on the flesh side while
spinning the wheel, if you have not worked on it in a long
time.
For molding sulfurSulfur is made beautiful mixed with soot black or with
pulverized sanguine, which renders it harder and stronger. Having
let it melt well until it becomes liquid, like oil, mix it with
verdigris, and you m will very neatly cast in
plaster a lizard or something else.
One ought not to cast unless it is well cooled & unless it
has lost all its pustules & bubbles, and has settled down
well & become smooth like water. The
soot black gives it a fine sheen & makes it neater. The most
beautiful yellow sulfur must be used, for the greyish &
lively one is not good. Do not cast in wind &
in cold, for it would become porous.
ChimoléeThe terre chimolée, otherwise known as
fuller’s earth, with which they dress the
cloth, is excellent for molding hollow or in relief; & if you
want to reheat it, it must first be warm, & reheat it on a gentle
fire at a distance & little by little, otherwise it would crack.
Put the figure to reheat in a pot in an oven or in a
covered oven. It is very soft, neat & beautiful. You
can make a hollow form of animals from chimolée & cast
lead in it.
The work needs to be dried for 4 or 5 days before you reheat
it. When you mold & make a hollow form from chimolée, do
not press suddenly, but gently, for it would crack.
PaperThe whitest & finest is the best. And when the hollow form is quite
clean, as of sulfur or cooked chimolée, it is made
very neatly. You can give it one or two layers of white with a
border of gold to imitate alabaster. And after you have
applied the white, you can burnish it with the tooth.
But in order for it to be burnished, one needs to temper the lead
white with glair of egg & peelings from the fig
tree. Or better, varnish your work with white varnish.
Also, when you are molding with paper, as it starts to dry,
burnish from the back with the tooth.
PlasterThat from the mountains is greyer, and the the
one from the region of Albi is whiter. It must be cooked with a
closed fire, such as a reverberatory furnace or barbers'
ovens. And the most freshly cooked is the best to put to use.
One needs to finely grind it on marble. After having prepared your
hollow form from sulfur or something else, & having oiled it
& enclosed it in a circle, temper not too
thickly your plaster with water, & separate it well
with your finger, and if it makes pustules, throw on top
more powder of the said plaster & grind it
with the finger until +
+ it makes no more pustules. Then cast & sprinkle
once again with plaster powder & let it take well, then
scrape the powder.
Molding stucco promptly
Grind & pulverize finely brick or Armenian
bole or sanguine & incorporate it with melted wax,
& thus melted, cast like the others on a relief medal,
& thus you will have a hollow form where you will be able to cast with
plaster, pestled paper, or terre chimolée.
Finely sieved brick is better, because the bole is too
fatty.
Cleaning yellow pearlsGently boil them in the goldsmiths’bouteure then, with tripoli & a piece of
leather, sprinkled on the flesh side with the powder of the
said tripoli, rub & polish the pearl.
For whitening enilanrocSome think that the ceruse-colored crust which is on top
is natural, others say that it is a secret of ancient lapidaries
that is lost, others say that it is refired enamel. And by means
of the said crust, several ciphers, letters, circles
st & other bizarre things can be formed. As for
the method, I have practiced it thus. Once I wished to give it a layer of
arsenic ground on marble. However, I experimented
without this, and I put the aforesaid thing, enilanroc, in a
small iron casket on the fire of my
goldsmith’s forge with three or four small
half-burnt charcoals, and blew only with my mouth. And
nonetheless the thing came to redden & ignition & turned
completely white, not only on its surface but also inside, & then I
let it cool on its own near the fire, for otherwise, exposing
it suddenly to cold air, it would have burst. Once all white, I passed
it through my leadtinwheel,
where I found it as hard as before, & uncovering the white
a little, I found it a fair flesh color. Finally, I polished it &
saw that it took a very beautiful polish & could paragon a
very beautiful agate for cutting some beautiful face on it &
bringing it on the a table of
agate of various color. But because this total whiteness did not
respond to make this white crust on the surface that I was seeking,
leaving the rest of the thing of its natural color, I made a opening in
a brick of the exact size of the thing & put it inside. Then
I reddened two glassworkers’
solders, & as they were red, I
presented them one after the other onto the surface of the thing until I
had the white crust that I required, on which I made such drawing as I
wanted, uncovering up to the red base with a diamond
point, and I polished it with small hog bristle brushes
and tripoli. I do not know if it would be better to
reheat it under hot ashes, & if it would be good to encase it
in alabaster, which is very cold, as I encased it in the
brick.
Flesh color from arsenicSublimated arsenic, that is to say, the white one that is
sold as stone, when ground on marble, mixed with
vermilion or lake or minium, makes a beautiful
flesh color that is always shiny. Yellow arsenic has a very
beautiful color, the white one is good in oil and agrees well
with the lake.
For dyeing
Mix sal ammoniac & vitriol & boil them
together. Then mix in lake or verdet & azure or
similar, & dye. This will not come off unless the animal
sheds. Non bona.
Polishing of stonesEngraved tai stones are not polished on a
copper wheel, but with brushes and
tripoli. Yet stones cut in facets and flat are
polished on the aforesaid wheel.
Fine sieves of raw silkOne makes tammy of raw silk on a loom, to make
fine & delicate sieves. And for that effect, you must not
choose raw silk whitened by sulfur smoke, which
renders the silkchas charged with a sticky
vapor that would hold the flour & in the end would prevent it
from
passing through so well. But choose for that effect yellow raw &
natural silk because it is stronger & casts out flour
like horsehair.
For knowing the good cendrée of azure for oilThe one that accumulates in small clods and is lumpy is
the best because it is the most subtle. Also the one that is very
pale in color, because oil darkens it. Certain
sophisticators mix them, but you will know this if you pour
some onto a piece of paper & press it & spread it with
the finger since, if it is mixed, it will be found
variegated & as if striped with a pale one & a darker one, but if it is
unmixed it will be even & of one color.
Whitening of pearlsWhen they have been applied in embroidery on some garment, they are
greasy & are cleaned in soap water.
ToadstoneThe kind which comes from the head of the toad & has
the figure of the toad painted naturally, as you have seen, is
the most excellent. It is held that if one puts the powder of it on a
brazier in the chamber of some persons at night, they
will be neither able to move, nor speak, nor thwart thieves.
SnakesIt is said that if one calls a snake in Greek, saying
ΟΦΗ ΟΦΗ, it will flee. Likewise, if one nom
calls a swine in Greek, yïon, it
will come.
CandlesCandlemakers never make good candle when the
Autan wind blows because the candle always tends to melt, however
good the tallow they use for it.
For walls of earth and rustic constructionSwallows have taught us this craft, making their nests out
of mud mixed with wisps & stalks of hay or
straw to make it bond. Therefore, in places where stone &
brick are lacking, one can use earth to make partitions
& walls. And for this, light earth, which does not
form clumps when plowed, but which is as if intermixed with
arene, holds first rank, because it can be beaten &
tamped down better. It is true that one needs to moisten it &
la cut it into the shape of sods with a ditch-spade, and
thus place & arrange it. This one lasts longer and there is not as much
construction work, and ne dryness does not make it
crack & split. But, because such kinds of earth are not found
everywhere, those who are on good & fertile land, after
marking out with a measuring line the width & length of
their foundations, drive into the ground in along the edges,
on this side & that, long chpoles& or chevron beams to support boards
between which they throw the earth, making each
layer one foot thick or thereabouts, intermixing it
as if S.S.S with branches of heather or
similar things, then with beaters of three
different forms they tamp it & beat it. One is called the
mallet, which has a triangular form like A, and with this, one
first tamps the earth. Next one uses one which is made of blocks of
wood pointed at the tip & helved to a large stick, & this one
is for pressing the earth well at the extremities and edges of
the wall, which adhere to the boards, & is
called. The other one is called the
bat, which is for flattening & beating the earth for
the last time, as shown in C. Then one makes another layer of
earth& heather and beats it as
was said, & continues thus until the wall is complete,
which one covers with heather & then with
earth. Some m intermix rows of bricks
in the said wall. They also make the
wall tapering, giving a width to the
foundations according to how high one wants to raise the
wall. Which, when old, whitens, & thereby shows that it
has saltpeter in it. That is why, when they fall down,
gunpowder makers profit from them.
Damasked clothYou can damask a cloth with two different colors and imitate
embroidery without adding anything to it, in this way. Once it is
dyed yellow, pounce onto it such a pattern as will please you.
Then you will baste some string or a thicker cord onto the
pouncing and thrust it into a dye of guesde woad
or pastel woad & it will become green, except that
which is beneathus the string, which will remain yellow because the
green dye will not have penetrated there. And you can do thus
with other colors, and instead of cord or string, add some
pieces of paltry cloth, cut into moresque shapes, on top of the
first colors. In that manner, you will have cheap embroidery.
Foundry casting
One casts candlesticks and small works in a frame with
sand. And after having imprinted the work, one sprinkles it with
flour in order to make the e metalcopper or latten run better. When the sand has been used
for a month, it is necessary to take some new, because the one
that was used, being reheated in fire
+, dries out & loses its bond. However,
it is used to mix among the new, for it makes the work not so porous.
One casts large works such as artillery, bells & similar things in
earth, & copper cast in earth makes less of a
crust, and is whiter than the one cast in sand. The
earth is sandy clay mixed with horse dung
& cloth waste. That which is has been used for
founding, which is black, cooked & as if burnt, is
cast mixed with artificial sand, & is
very good. / To soften & make the copper run, throw in,
once it is melted, a little lead, which does not form an alloy
but is found on the surface of the cast.
+
by the heat of molten metal
Casting gold and silverIt is necessary that the sand be from something very dry & arid
& reheated well in the frame, because, if it were humid,
like founders' sand, the gold and silver
would spatter, & cause damage. It is also necessary for the
earth to drink the metal, for cast gold or
silveris becomes very spongy. That is why it must be
beaten again, otherwise it is frangible, as one sees in spoon
handles.
Tablets
Some are made from boxwood inlaid with ebony,
sandalwood, ivory, or gold and silver like
damascening. Then one writes on it with silverpoint, and
next erases it with a cuttlefish bone by
rubbing them.
Letter, more legible
One cuts the largest pieces of beryl or crystal round
on one side & flat on the other, then one sets it with a little
handle and one sets down the flat side on the letter.
Stamping
If you have some bronze medal & you want to make it very
light, make of it a hollow form of lead, then spread upon it some thin
plate of gold, or plates of lead or annealed
annealed silver, & set your bronze medal on top
& strike with a wooden mallet.
Softening horn
Those who acou mount Agnus Dei & make circles from
horn for certain little boxes soften ladicte
the said circles by soaking them in hot water and next fashion them
on a round or oval-shaped triblet.
EarsWhen some defluxion occurs there, one needs
to be very careful not to put anything inside, and according to the
proverb,one ought only to touch the
ear & the eye with the elbow. However, it
is good to put on an affected earmusked cotton, that is
to say, kept in musk, for it comforts quite well.
ToothacheSome put a clove of garlic in the ear which
is on the side where the tooth is hurting, & within two or
three hours they feel well because of
it. Others put in the nostril which is on the side of the
ailing tooth green skin scraped from e the
small branch of visaube, namely
the kind which is under the grey one which resembles a small branch.
Founding of soft ironMost people consider that iron, once melted,
cannot be melted again because they only heat it in small
forges, in which it only becomes red-hot. Alchemists
undertake to melt it mixed with realgar or lead or orpiment.
But without all that, some have found a manner of
the melting not only brittle iron, such as the kind used
for iron pots, but also soft iron such
as d that of pigs & ingots, which is the most
difficult kind. And to this effect they make a furnace in this
manner which has a width of one pan & a half &
one pan & a half of a depth of two
pans. And the blast-pipe, which is the barrel
through marked A through which the bellows’ pipes enter, has
to be placed in the middle of the height of the furnace such
that there is one pan of the mouth of the
furnace above the blast-pipe & one
pan underneath.
Each pan of the mouth of the square furnace
contains one & a half quintal, & the
pan of the round furnace holds two
quintals.
The miners, to make the iron run, put at the mouth of
the melt, two or three handfuls of
wallwort when they want to make the melt run, and
this renders the iron wonderfully ductile and flowing.
It is also necessary that the blast-pipe enters through to the
middle of the mouth of the furnace, which is a principal part of
the secret because the wind will hit the edge & the wall which makes
up the belly of the furnace & by such means, it spreads
equally everywhere & above, like the flame in a reverberatory
furnace, & by such means heats much more; for if the wind were
to hit directly from above, the substance which is melted or ready to be
melted, it would cool it down & prevent it from running &
melting. It is also necessary for the bellows to be driven by the
leaping & running of water as in forges, because in
this manner, the bellows run with measure & compass & with great
speed, which the strength of workers could d not
do. Therefore one raises the wall as you see & the furnace
on the surface of the ground at the edge of which you make a channel as
with other founding, to put the molds of that which you want to
cast & to do this, you unstop the opening that you had made at the
bottom of the furnace to make the melted substance run. You
will be able to melt two quintals of iron each time and
to do this, you will choose the biggest charcoal you
can find & put a load of it at the bottom, on the plane and surface
of the furnace & with the bottom piling up as if
to a point, up to the top of the wall
Some make a mold of the caliber of the piece, & temper it,
then beat a soft iron piece cut to size, & when
this piece is very red, they beat it into the mold & round
it off with a large file, considering these balls to be
stronger than the melted ones which, being brittle, are more subject to
breaking.
which is usually of a height of d three
pans& will reheat well the. But first,
it is necessary that you have reheated your furnacewith with a little of the big charcoal, such that
the bottom is red hot and then you will put there the aforesaid load of
charcoals in the middle of which you will put your iron,
not all at once but ten or fifteen lb each time. And when this
will be swallowed & at the bottom of the furnace,
always put in as much again. And add three or four shovels of
new charcoal which should be of the biggest kind and remoistened,
in order that it may have more heat & not be consumed too soon.
And when you see that your furnace is full of substance, around
two quintals, or less if you do not of it have that much, you will
leave the charcoal to be consumed by itself. And when the
charcoal is as it were reduced down to the level of the
furnace, you will be able to pour into molds &
iron or metal shells, which is even better
because one iron attaches to the other. And it is necessary that
the inside of the mold be well ashed with tempered
ashes, in order that it does not adhere to it.
Against Go.Soak quince seeds in clear water & of
this mucilaginous water make an injection.
For removing fine hair from the foreheadTake a needle’s worth of fine silk &
pass it tightly across the places with the hair & it will attach
to the silk like fine cotton wisps.
SilkCrimson is more abundant than all
other silks because its color does not charge as do blue &
green, which are also more profitable for the worker. Black is less
abundant because it charges much.
Keeping orangesOne needs to choose quite whole ones which are not rotten &
put them & fill a well closed andtin
vessel with them & they will keep six
months.
CandlesThey keep well in bran which makes them white &
long-lasting, so say some. I believe, however, that it is enough to keep
them in a cool & dry place, in such manner that they are
not pressed together. It is better if there is a hemp
thread throughout the wick, which gives it more light & makes the wick hold up
straighter. Otherwise, if it is all of cotton, as those of
Montauban make, it is necessary to snuff it out often, for
after it has burnt il a little, the cotton
droops & makes the candle drip.
On the gunner
The cannon fires at point blank from five to six hundred paces.
But not for battering, in which it can only perform well from two
hundred paces, or three hundred paces at
the most, and it should not be any farther. Its ball commonly weighs 40
lb of the King’s caliber. There is
a cannon-perrier, which weighs xxv quintals, which are
small, short cannons. It is for fighting the ditch casemates
& for battering at close range. It bears a large ball of the
King’s caliber like the others, namely of
40 lb. It bears in the breech only the width of two balls
& a quarter of a ball. The front only bears the width of
one ball & a third of a ball. Its charge is similar to those of
bigger ones, namely xx. And for this reason, when one wants to try them
, one ought not to over-charge it, for this damages the
piece. And for the first time & until it has fired five or six
pieces shots, it is better not to give its complete charge,
for the piece is still proving itself. And the test that one can do is
to give it a charge of xx lb of fine arquebus powder
instead of ordinary cannon powder. And four good horses
are sufficient to drag them. They are easy, & close up they have as
much force as the big ones, especially for private houses
& small towns & fortresses of little
importance. They are no more subject to bursting than the others
because they are short. For that which gives great strength to the
powder & puts the piece in danger of bursting is
the length of the piece, because the powder is burned entirely
before exiting, & the its impetuosity is held constrained
for longer in a smalllong piece than a
gr short one. The cannon-perrier is commonly seven to
eight pans long. It is true that this is a
pan of Montpellier & not a
King’s pan, which is not used in the
founding of cannons for making them good. For the pan of
Montpellier being of shorter, the cannonsmore proportioned there are shorter also, & compensate in
thickness ce the length that they would have by the
King’s pan, by which measure they
will be found longer. But also they would be thinner. The egreatcanno strength of the cannon-perrier for
making a battery is 4xxpaces.
The great cannon, because of the weight of its ball, carries
a range of only a thousand or xii hundred paces without
landing, & bouncing, it commonly bounces iii times.
The cannon-perrier does not have a large effect if not close.
One recognizes the good alloy of a piece by seeing it. For if, with the
greenness which they expel on the surface, they redden, that is to say
that they are composed of a sufficient quantity of
rosette. If not, they are only of metal, which
shows up whitish. If they themselves do not make this demonstration,
scratch & you will see.
The good alloy for pieces is of three parts of
rosette & one of the fine metal of
la large bells, where there is more
rosette than in the metal of small bells. The
metal commonly costs xv lb & fine
rosette xv or xvi.
The pan of Montpellier is equivalent
to six of the King’s inches, which
contains in it two common ones.
It is necessary, for a mounting a piece well, that it be as
high at the side of the mouth as at the breech. Otherwise, one does not
mount well.
The large cannon, which is for great
batteries, commonly weighs fifty-five or lx
quintals. At the breech it carries the thickness of
b two balls &onelof the three parts of one ball. At the front, it carries
ba the thickness of one ball &
two two of the three parts. It is thirteen or fourteen
pans long. But they are very troublesome to drive. The
head-on battery, to accomplish its task quickly is &
batter with great force, is at d one-hundred fifty
paces & at two hundred. And It is true that one
batters well from three or 4 hundred paces, but it is necessary
to give it more powder. Its common load is p
of xx lb of powder, its ball of 40 lb. One
needs xxv horses to draw it. When one fires it farther than its
usual range, one puts in a half ladle of cannon
powder more. A cannon can fire
4xx or a hundred shots per
day, but one needs to refresh it every time after one
has fired te nine or ten shots, if the battery is steadily
continued. For if there is a break, it is not necessary to refresh it as
often. For two quintals of copper, or two quintals
& a half if it is for large cannons, one puts one
quintal of metal.# The
metal is composed at the beginning of eight lb of
tin for one quintal of rosette, while
for large bells one only puts six lb of fine tin for one
quintal of rosette, to give it a bigger
voice. For the more tin there is, the clearer the
sound is. Its For gun founding, if one provides the
material & charcoal, as one commonly does, for
masters do not have the means, one gives x to xii
lb per quintal. And for the mat when the
master provides everything, one gives him 40 lb,
according to the King’s ordinance, per
quintal for large pieces& such as cannons, and for
small pieces, L lb. For the more material there is,
the more profit the master has of it. One founds another kind
of cannon-perriers of xxx quintals which are longer than the
others, and easily eight pans long, & they are for
battering defenses & casemates, s
placing them via trenches on the edge of the ditchby night.
◯
On each side of the opening of the breech they give the thickness of
half a ball. And then they also add on each side the third part
of a ball.Ain One gives it two ladles of
cannon powder for its charge, & one & a half ofarquebus powder, & the same for the others.
#
The composition of cannons of France is of one quintal of
metal for two of rosette.
But those of Toulouse & Poncet puts
iii of rosette & one of metal.
The rosette for re-melting is more profitable than
cauldrons, which turn entirely into filth.Old pieces are composed of almost de demas much
of one as of the other, namely one part of
rosette & one of metal. One recognizes this
composition with a burin. For its substance is found to be brittle
& the particle taken from the burin is found to be mixed
with yellow & white.
Large culverinsare for battery & piercing
are forty quintals & eighteen pans long.
Their ball, of the King’s caliber & for
battery, is 30 lb and thus lighter than that of the cannon. And
thus, it does not carry so much ammunition for fifteen lb
suffices for its charge. The cannon makes a bigger opening due to the
size of its ball, but the culverin hits more fiercely & propels
faster, having greater force due to its length. At the breech it carries
the thickness of two of its balls & esthethreethirds part of a ball, at the front the
thickness of one ball & two thirds. Culverins serve to
batter defenses from afar when one cannot easily make an approach, and
cannons approach more closely. They also serve to support the battery.
One needs fifteen or sixteen horses for moving it. They are
tout of the same alloy as the cannon, as are all
piecesthat exceedsmaller than average, for to
these, one adds a little more metal in order that the melt runs
better. And for two quintals of rosette, one
adds six twenties lb of metal for the smaller pieces.
They shoot 8 or 9 hundred paces at point blank, & up to
a thousand paces if the powder is strong, &
half a league at range.
Some invented the loading of cannons with cartouches.
Some po do not put the powder in the cannon
all in one go but in two & ramming each time, saying that each
ramming raises & gives a further thumb’s breadth. But this
is not certain for large pieces which are loaded with a lot of
powder.
The bastarde, which is a culverinmiddle-sizedpiece,
weighs thirty quintals and its ball weighs xx
lbxv lb and carries as its charge x
or xii lb of powder. Its proportion is at the breech the
thickness of two of its balls & thees
threeird parts of a ball. At the front, the
thickness of a ball & two of three parts. or
They serve to batter defences of little importance such as
gabions and garrets topped with a tower &
similar things. It is thirteen or xiiii pans long like
the large cannon. Ten horses can move it. It accompanies well
the large culverin for point blank because it carries small
ammunition.
Some give it the thickness of three balls at the breech & at the
front of two balls.
The bastard culverin weighs 35 quintals & is xxv
pans long. It carries three balls at the breech &
two in front. Its ball is like that of the bastarde piece,
weighing xv lb. These are pleasure pieces which s cannot be moved by
carriage, but are for city defences. Some make these xxvii or
xxviii pans long, like the Cow of La
Rochelle. But to such pieces one gives reinforcement at the breech
as of three balls. At range, they can shoot around one league,
& a half league at point blank. Its charge is like the
bastarde. And if one wants to fire at some cavalry
quite far off, one increases the powder a little. A tail of smoke
follows the ball which de guides your
sight e to where the ball is going. This goes for the
cannon and for the culverin, and not for small pieces.
The average weighs 18 quintals &
measures xii pans long.
Its ball weighs eight or 9 lb & its charge is six
pounds of powder. And for At the breech it
carries a thickness of three balls, & in front, two. It is
more appropriate for the defense of a city than for battery.
However, one takes it sometimes either to break a barricade
or to support the battery after the cannons have fired, in order to
prevent the assailed from re-fortifying after the cannons have played or
fired. Four horses can draw it. It shoots eight or nine hundred
paces at point blank & almost as much as the
bastarde.
To cannons & large pieces one givesn as much
powder as is the diameter of a ball & a half, at
which point the escutcheon sits. To medium pieces, such as
field pieces, & smaller ones, one gives them powder the
thickness of two balls. To the passe-volant & other smaller
ones, one gives them powder the thickness of three
balls. In general, one charges all piecesup to the
escutcheon. One charges with the ladle all
pieces from the cannon to the piece of four quintalsde char, and one gives them two
ladles of cannon powder or one & a half
of arquebus powder. To smaller ones, one only gives one
ladle, & those of one quintal are
charged with a small charge.
The field piece weighs ten or twelve quintals & is ten
pans long or 12. Its ball weighs vi or vii lb
& its charge is 4 lb of powder. At the breech it has
three balls & two in front, as do all pieces that are smaller than
the average. One gives them more of a breech because one makes them
longer in proportion, and also because in a house or
elsewhere one fires them more frequently than the large pieces.
Their caliber is also small, which makes the breech 3 balls
thick. They are used for following a camp promptly & for the defense
of cities & houses, putting them on the
walls or on a tower. One needs three good
horses for drawing it.
The passe-volant weighs vi quintals, is eight or nine
pans long. Its ball weighs two lb, &, for
its charge, a lb & a half of powder. At the breech
it has three balls & two in the front. Two horses can move
it, for a single horse does not begin to move a piece. It is
used for the defense of houses, or for taking among the
infantry to break a rank of cavalry.
The falconet weighs 4 quintals, is x
pans long. Its ball weighs one lb & a
quarter, its charge is half a lb of powder. At the
breech three balls, at the front, two. To move it, two horses,
although such pieces are hardly moved insofar as they only serve to
defend houses. The ones which are carted around either for
battery or for siege combat, are cannons, culverins, medium-sized
bastardes & field
pieces. The falconet is loaded with a ladle, and one
commonly gives it only one ladle. There are also
other falconets weighing three quintals, and which
are nine pans long. Their ball weighs half a
lb. Their charge is a quarter of powder. It is loaded
either with a ladle, but more commonly with a charge. At the
breech, 3 balls, & 2 in front. To the small pieces which
are under 3 quintals one gives them at least 3 balls
& a twelfth part of a ball at the breech, & sometimes
takes away from the front to make this addition to the breech, according
to the length one gives them.
The strength of the piece is at the level of the trunnion, which is the
point of departure of the lit powder.
The strength of the berche is at the
maslée, & at the back of the
breech.
A double musket weighs 2 quintals, is seven
pans long, carries a ball of a quarter of a
lb or a little less. At the breech 3 balls, two in
front. One loads it with as much powder as ball, up to the top of
the escutcheon, which in these small pieces can amount to 3
or 4 balls of arquebus powder. For if one uses
cannon powder, one can load it to a thickness of c
five balls.
One needs to understand all of this as iron balls. When one
shoots a metal ball, one over-charges by a quarter
ladle because if a cannon ball weighs 40
lb, the metal one weighs lx lb. One also takes
the gun-sight higher when shooting a metal ball. For if one
shoots an ironiron ball point-blank, one takes six lines
higher when shooting metal balls. A metal ball makes
alloyed with copper, in order that it is not frangible, is more
effective hitting at close range than that of iron. But the
iron one hits more fiercely from afar.
A simple musket weighs one quintal, is six
pans long. carries a ball weighing qu One has no consideration for those which are under two
quintals, which readily carry lead balls
un of the weight of the ball, but of the caliber.
However, those which can receive balls of metal or iron do
better because they will penetrate more than six lead ones. Its
charge is up to the escutcheon, namely the thickness of 4
balls. Arquebus à croc weighs lx lb, that is to say the large one is
five pans long, its charge is up to the
escutcheon, namely the length of 4 balls, it
carries lead balls, and is for the defence of houses. Of these
arquebus à croc, both the large & the small ones, one makes orgues
which are or appropriate for an assault, both outside &
inside the place. They are founded separately as if to serve for uses
other than orgues. See the 4th leaf following, marked
Mathematical figures without ruler and compass
You know how to draw a circle correctly with the quill & or
else with the nail of your right thumb & the bent
big finger. If you do not have a ruler, fold
paper in two five or six times to use it. And if you want to draw
a column, arch, oval, escutcheon correctly without a compass,
fold your paper such that the fold e gives
you a straight line, at the required distance from which, trace
a point & a or a line & saturate it well with
ink. Then fold again the paper & rub it on the back
& it will print however much you have made. In that way la
l, A is the line without ink which the paper
fold gives you, B is the line you have traced, C is the one which is
printed.
P For writing as well from the
left as from the right
Write as best you can with well-gummed ink on as many little
cards as you want to write words. & once
each letter is well saturated with ink, put it down on your
paper & rub with a tooth the back of the
card.
Clysters
One used to give them with leather sleeves or bags,
which for the best result is must be of cat
skin which is more mitten-like than any other. And then one would
start to fold back the sleeve on one side & one would
continue to fold it back & twist it around itself & in that way
the clyster would run gently. But this manner takes longer & is less
convenient than the syringe which has been discovered since,
with which a man alone easily gives a clyster. It is true that
it always causes wind at the end.
For making millasIt is necessary to have millet pilled to remove the
husks and then you will clean it well. Next one needs to
grind it again quite finely and pass it through a hair sieve
quite finely. This done, it is necessary to mix the flour with
melted fresh butter and milk, and that there be
as much of one as the other, in such a manner that it is very light in color,
like the dough to make fritters. And you will put in egg
yolks according to the quantity of flour, so that it amounts
to two egg yolks for each millas.
Then you will put in some saffron, if you like, to give
them a little color.Next, you need to have molds, and it is
necessary that they be earthenware, in the fashion of the crown of
a catholic hat, but it is necessary that they be open at both ends. And
then, having made a good fire, you will clean the place in the
hearth where you want to put your
millas, and then you will take your molds and
grease them quite heavily in order that the dough does not stick when it is
cooked. Having done that, you will put your said molds on the
well-cleaned place in the hearth and will put a
little flour at the bottom and fill them with the aforementioned
dough. Next you will cover the said molds with
lids which will be made like the molds, but it is
necessary that they be larger and not be open at the top. Then having
done that, you will put a little hay on the said lids
and plenty of embers, and make a good charcoal fire all around.
That done, you will uncover one of them soon thereafter and see when it
is cooked. It should be hard.
GlassworkerGlass from Lorraine is smoother & more even than
plate glass and it is sturdier & more durable. But commonly
it is stained by veins, in straight lines as if tanned, which happens
because the glassmakers, having made it, put it when totally
hot on straw, which stains it in this way. However, this
is removed with varnish & salt & other
drugs that the glassworkers put on. Glass from Lorraine is sold by the bundle & each
bundle is composed of three tablets.
The bundle costs usually x sous.
Plate glass is sold in made in France, it is
whiter & clearer, but alternately it is not so durable as that from
Lorraine. It is also commonly blown & in that case, it is
better to make little diamonds rather than large square pieces in the
shape of a frame, because they cannot be set quite evenly.Plate glass is sold by paniers. Every
panier contains 24 plates that are
commonly sold at x or twelve lb.
For whitening the facePestle puffball in cistern water, & no
other, & wash with this whitened water. This is considered
quite singular. And I believe that making it from wheat
starch & to use it would be even better.
Against winds, colic, &cSap squeezed or water distilled from
orange peel is excellent against the windy colic.
Candied peel, too, is excellent for the winds of the
belly. And to make a trial of it, having poured foaming
wine in a glass, squeeze orange
juice on the wine foam, which proceeds only from vapor &
wind, and you will see that the foam will immediately disappear. Also,
if you squeeze juice against a candle it will burn all
the brighter.
Skirret root
They want to be planted in a very humid place where with such a
rodier well or fountain one can water it often, for by
this means they are tender. Otherwise a hard heart forms inside,
which takes from it all its goodness.
Against burnPestle an onion with verjuice & leave it
to soak like this, then apply it.
Or else, apply black soap on the burn. Experimented.
Common saying
Bell tower of Rodez, church of Albi,
bells of Mende. However, one holds the bell of
Toulouse named Cardaillac as one of the most beautiful in
France, all the more since it weighs two hundred and fifty
quintals.
A form of regimenEvery morning, take two or three eggs laid one or
two days ago. Heat them until & do not cook
them. Take the centers well dusted with sugar. And next
drink one finger of wine. And apart from being
nourishing, it makes a good stomach.
GunnerAs for small cannons which are not loaded with a ladle,
one charges them with powderup to the escutcheon, which
is placed on the piece with due proportion.To point a cannon, that is to say to take its aim, one needs to take
the sight, that is to say aim, from the sides before the top, that is to
say above the cannon. For by aiming along the top, you will be better
able to find the line tending to your target, but you would not find out
if the cannon tends more to one side than the other. Therefore take your
sight on one side, then on the other & adjust your piece to the
point at which you aim. Then take your sight from the top of the breech,
which will be done quickly. Next, lower your piece a little at your
discretion if you are within true range, because the force of the
powder usually makes it rise. But if you were farther away than
your piece shoots at point blank, you would need to consider that the
weight of the ball would make it lower.
For firing a cannon at night
Some keep their pieces loaded and from the day. Then, in
order that the gunner can fire into the breach where the
assailed are perhaps making repairs, the besiegers raise a false alarm
in order that the besieged throw torches & artificial
fire into the moats or around the breach, at which the
gunner aims. Sometimes, by using the reflection of
mirrors or flasks full of water, the assailants
light up the breach. The method you know, with a quadrant &
plumb line, is very good. Others nail two or three rows
of boards with strong iron pegs on the wooden platform
made for mounting the cannon, and leave empty notches into which the
wheels of the cannon can just fit. And by such means you will always
te place it at a similar q
point, that it will not incline more to the right than to the left. And
in order that it be neither too high nor too low, when you fire during
the day, you place a ruler fixed well in the ground, which
comes just to touch the the bottom of the edge of the cannon after it
has been pointed & adjusted for firing.If the
platform, the wheels, or the
wedges break or are disturbed, this
invention is of no profit.
Others place two poles fixed well into
the earth such that one is equally as far from the edge
andofthe muzzle of the
cannon as the other. And underneath they place the above-mentioned
ruler. Then when they want to fire at
night, they push their cannon straight toward the above-mentioned
ruler & make it so that the edge of the mouth rests on the
end of the aforesaid ruler. Next, they measure with a
ruler or similar thing cut to measure, from one pole to the
side of the cannon & if it is too close or too far from it, they
adjust it & do thus from the side of the other pole.
For unspiking a cannonSome say that one should remove the ball if the cannon is loaded
& give fire through the mouth of the cannon. But it is to be
believed that the fire would sooner exit that way than going to seek its
exit through its usual touch-hole which is
spiked & constrained. The most reliable way is that the
gunner, who is often a founder, wedges &
thoroughly rivets the nail that the enemies placed, and with a
trepan makes at the side another touch-hole next to
the one which has been spiked, which will be done in an hour. And if
with time the violence of the powder loosens the nail with
which the piece is spiked, you will make a thread in the second
touch-hole & place a screw in it quite perfectly which will
never come undone. M
Defense of a town
There is nothing that has a greater effect for the defense of a
breach than petards placed at the entryway at the time of the assault.
They carry a lot of ammunition. be One fills them
with cart nails, large steel dice, bits of chain
& similar things. And when one senses that the enemies are close,
one sets fire to all. Grenades, too, well-made and aptly thrown, cause
great damage. And to make them worse, one puts coarsely
pestlingpestled glass either in the molds or in the
crucible, when one wants to cast them; this worsens the wounds.
The grenades ought not to be too brittle. But it is good that they be
somewhat alloyed with the substance of the pieces in order that,
holding the blast a little rather than breaking, they have more
violence.
Cannon ball, weighing 40 lb, having 12 lines,
king's foot.
A little too big, see the one of that
follows.
OrguesThen one mounts them on a medium thick board close to
oneg another & one makes
notches on the board this way & through these notches one passes the hook of the arquebus which
has a hole through which one passes iron pegs from under
the board. Then, when one wants to aim it, one mounts the middle one
& that on both sides. If you want to make a double row, or triple or
quadruple or more, you need only place a similar row of boards like the
first, one on the other. For the other This kind of orgues
penetrates & is quite stable. For the other ones which
are made of one piece like a solid square have cannons only
threefour one pan & a half
long. Also, they only serve for making a salvo at an entry or for
defending a door.
A small arquebus à croc weighs 40 lb, is four
pans long, is loaded up to the
escutcheon, has three balls at the breech & two
in front.
The double cannon is no different from the large ordinary cannon, except
that it carries its ball which has
one line of thickness, or of
diameter, more. The line is a twelfth part of the
ball of the cannon. At the breech, it has one line of
thickess more than the cannon, & half at the front. Its charge is
six or seven lb of powder, more than a cannon, namely by
two big ladles. Its ball weighs 56 lb. One
needs thirty horses to draw it. It makes much
more of a fracas at the wall than the cannon. But it is very troublesome
to draw. It is for this reason that one hardly uses it today, and it is
more for moving to some nearby place & battering at close range or
for an entry, than for ordinary business. One calls them
basilics, and they are pieces made for pleasure.
On petardsSuch a petard is made which weighs three quintals, carries
a cannonball flat on the side on which it must exit & round on the
inside of the cannon, as if it were a cannonball cut in half. It is two
pans long. It is charged with xxv lb of
powder for at it needs to be full up to the mouth
& it needs to burst. It does not have a different thickness at the
breech than at the mouth & is all of one piece. Its substance needs
to be better than that of pieces, & for 4 quintals of
fine copper there ought to be only one quintal of
metal in order that it holds the blast, &, bursting with more
force, has a greater effect. It is for putting against a door with a
large iron cross in front of the ball, and sonce loaded, it needs
to be covered with a well-sewn thick canvas which should be
anointed c all over with turpentine. It needs
to have four handles, made while it is founded, for it is thus easier to
place. The iron cross is joined to the mouth with the
canvas with which it is covered. To place it, it The
handles must be kept at the edge of its muzzle, as you see. To place it,
one needs three or four iron pegs one
pan long & as thick as a
finger which should have their point like a
wimblegimlet, & the entire leg as
a screw, like an auger, & a ring on the
other end to turn them with a short stick which has play within
the ring. And the pegs are placed in the door but
not straight but for they would not have any strength, but at an
angle as if you wanted to fix them toward the middle of the
petard, and to do this, the hole of the handles needs to be quite large.
In this way, the firing petard pushes the pegs along &
across into the door & makes more of a breach. Once it is placed,
you need to have a buckram sausage
made in this manner: take eight or nine canes of
buckram strip or more if the ditch is larger, and let the strip
be four or five fingers wide. Have it well sewn in
such a way that it is like a gut through lwhich a
stick as thick as a finger can pass. Fill it
completely with good
This one is for putting below an undermined tower with the muzzle
pointing up. One makes two large iron rings & with a
bar or two, four men carry it. They are also used for putting
in breaches but here one needs only half a charge, namely x lb,
& to fill it with flint stones & cart flint
stones.
One needs to cover it entirely with waxed canvas & rubbed
with turpentine & combustible things. This cover is
made in order to secure the ball, such that it does not fall and in
order that when the fire takes to the cover, the primer powder
does not fail. Precisely at the fuse, you will need to put in a good
quantity of primer powder. Some put a cross of iron on the
ball which exptends beyond the mouth of the petard by two
pans. Others only put the ball.
powder. When the sausage is full, dip it well in
lightly, to wet the canvas & not the powder, in two
parts of vinegar & of one of
eau-de-vie. Next, let the said canvas dry well, and then
one needs to join to the said sausage a long string or
cord which should be two times longer than the
sausage, & one ought not to tighten it to the sausage but only
to bind it to it at both ends & to sew it on the sausage in a few
places in the middle. Next one needs to anoint the entire sausage with
very good turpentine, and at whichever end of it you wish to join
to the touch-hole of the petard for giving fire, you can sew
a or tightly attach a large strip of canvas one
empan wide which should also be well soaked in
turpentine; & this strip must be split in the middle in order
to wrap & tie it around the petard, and one needs to attach it in
such a way that the touch-hole should be close to u
mthe the tip of the sausage, which should be open,
should be joined to the touch-hole of the petard. Then one needs to put
a lot of tightly-pressed powder onto the touch-hole of the
petard. And next, the one outside the ditch needs to pull the
thread & cord that is joined to the sausage until
it is moderately extended, but not so much that it is detachedsen. And if
there was water in the ditch, one would need to support the
sausage with forks. Then, the one who holds the end of the sausage will
be able to give fire, having gotten himself to safety, & the others
also.
On petardsPetards that one wants to place on doors or iron grates are
sufficient if they weigh 40 or 50 lb. Moreover, as for its
charge, ball, & fashion of proceeding, one needs to do all as is
already said above, concerning the one of 3 quintals. One man
can carry it.The ball needs to be be round on one side & flat on the other
like a half ball a half of a cut ball. It is also
necessary that the cross is held to the ball and that it, when the ball
is founded if you make it from metal, is bound up with the middle
of the cross.
GrenadesGrenades must be made from the finest metal one can find, for
there is fine metal and crude metal. Fine
metal is that of a large bell, because one
puts in more copper to give it a bigger voice, & for small
bells one puts more tin to give it a bigger clearer
sound. The metal of a large bell is made one with
3quintals of rosette & twenty or xxv
lb of tin. Tan Each grenade must
weigh four to six lb. And in order to throw them, it is necessary
that they be full of powder mixed with coarsely pestled
glass. And for a quarter lb of powder, one needs
half an ounce of glass which is put with it, in order
that on the face or places where the powder will have its effect,
the wounds will be all the worse for it. The best arquebus
powder is required here. The hole needs to be as large as the
thickness of a swan’s quill, & you need not bother to
make it threaded, but it is enough to make it even. Next, you make a
well-soldered pipe of fer blanc,
which can enter into the hole & enter into the middle of
the grenade & which comes out of it by the width of one
finger. You will fill it with good powder, pestled
in a mortar & lightly mixed with good eau-de-vie or
strong vinegarwhich seems. And when This is done to
temper the powder. And to know if it will be slow enough to allow
leisure to throw the grenade without danger, try this powder thus
bathed in another pipe. You can keep d your loaded
grenades in a very dry place, & on the contrary you shall
keep your pipes filled with that bathed and well-compressed
powder in a humid place. And nonetheless, you shall
have some already inserted into thesomegrenades,
to be always provisioned. And every three days you shall
change them if you recognize that they have become too dry. To throw
your grenade, take it bravely & in one hand
& with the other give fire to your pipe with the a
match, & throw it promptly amidst the
powder troops. The thickness of the
grenade should be twice the back edge of
a knife.
For bringing a cannon over landIf you have To bring a cannon, one needs a hundred
pioneers or more to flatten the tracks by levelling ditches
& others obstacles, such as trees, stone mounds
& similar things to make gabions on the way. Once one is close to
the place one wants to batter, the gunner goes at
night to reconnoiter the most convenient place to mount the
battery
Know the magazines of France for the
artillery.
It is good if the platform is slightly inclined toward the front because
the piece is more quickly mounted for battery & holds the blast
better & batters more fiercely.
& if he does not see well, one gives a false alarm in order
that those on the inside throw torches. Very often, one batters where it
is strongest because the assailed, disdaining the battery, do not make repairs there.
Commonly, there are not many garrets & other defenses in
that place. And when one has made a breach at the strongest part & the
cannon removed, it will surprise the assailed. One approaches
fortified townsat night, but to poorly
fortified towns, pioneers bring gabions and
carry once these are placed, one puts some boards or planks
behind the gabions to keep the pioneers safe, while behind,
they fill the gabions with some earth by means of their
shovels. And while one does this, one raises some false alarm
on another side. And before, one has
Fowlers are those which have a
reinforcement inside, in the entire space which contains the powder, and the
ball can only a roll up to the opening of the said
chamber. These do not penetrate so much & are irritating to load but
they do not heat up as quickly.
fired a volley at the defenses.
The gabions The pioneers carry the
boards to make a level ground or a platform of four
fingers or half a foot thick, and
one sets them into the earth. The platform is five or six
canofeet larger than the wheels of the cannon
on each side m if there is only one cannon. But if
there are more, the platforms touch. The distance which is between the
pieces is the width of two gabions. As long as the battery
lasts, the gunners sleep & eat close to a cannon. In
small spaces, one does not bother to dig trenches to reach the pieces
but one puts plenty of gabions that are high & goes running to them. In large
A steel touch-hole
is
put in the cannons in the manner of a screw so it will not be damaged
during firing like the others very quickly will be. But these screws
are prone to blow off & cause damage to the gunner. There
is nothing for it but to use a proper touch-hole.
places one digs trenches. There are always in trenches or behind
barricades somesome companions-in-arms on guard duty to defend
the pieces. One keeps the small powder magazine, of three or four
kegs, separately,
A touch-hole at the level
of
the breach is the best because in in this way the cannon hardly pushes
back.
a hundred paces away from the battery & one surrounds
them with barricades or trenches. And there one goes to get
powder in bags or frails. And each piece has
its own frail for loading three or four times. Then, when the
cannon is set on the platform, one puts a board that is proof of an
arquebus between two gabions. Then a gunner loads it with a
ladle, & with the rammer which is at
len the other end of the ladle, two men
ram the powder as much as they can, in nine or ten pushes, until
they find the powder to be hard & well-compacted. Next,
another puts hay or straw and the r others
ram a little. Another puts the ball and the hay-bearer puts in
as much of it as before & one rams a little. Some put
wooden bungs but this runs the risk of making the piece
burst. And where one has to fire many cannon shots, one
would need many bungs, which would cost much to carry. Once the
cannon is loaded, xx or xxv pioneers push it forward with
bars, keeping to one side behind the gabions without taking off the
board until the cannon reaches it. Once the cannon is in front, the
gunner mounts it with the wedges which are at the
back, taking the sight on each side and then in the middle. Then another
who is nearby gives fire. Each gunnercannon needs
3 gunners: the loader, the one who aims, the one who gives
fire. Sometimes, against a camp or into a breach, one shoots cartridges,
made as you have elsewhere, or else one uses a basan full of
flint stones, cart nails & similar.
P A chcannon must not move
unless it has two harnesses, be they of wood or iron. And
to furnish the wheels, powder box, and other furniture of the cannon,
one needs seven quintals and a half of iron.
Pour les pre The best battery is done at a curtain
wall, some say, for that is, as if at an
bieve angle, for by doing this you shake loose
several stones.
Some put small wheels of the piece and a thick board to the end of the
carriage of the piece in order that it may be drawn more quickly and
without making a noise. Others put leather all around the
the wheels & also put leather soles or shoes on
the horses’ hooves in order that one does not hear
them.
GunnerThere are three reinforcement rings on a cannon, one at the breech,
one in the middle, one at the mouth. When founders want to work on their
craft or render the cannon or other piece lighter & easier to
cart around, they make it from the ring at the breech to the ring
in the middle of the thickness & proportion of the balls, as is said
above. But from the ring in the middle to the ring of the mouth
& they diminish it one line, or more or less, on
each side, always taking their measurements with the compassfrom the straight line which they make in the middle of the
model of paper or otherwise. And this reduction amounts
to seven or eight quintalsreduction &
lighteningin weight, and the piece is not less secure
for it. This is done for big pieces, but for grsmall piecesfromlesser than the average, one
needs to observe the aforesaid proportion, & draw the piece in a
continuous line from one end to the other. The trunnions are commonly
situated one foot from the ring of the middle,
from toward the edge of the breech.
But because some gunners prefer a piece which is weighted at the front
because it is easier to plant, to do this, one only needs to move the
trunnions closer to the breech & further away from the middle. On
the contrary, if you want to render it smore weighted at the back, you will move the trunnions
closer to the middle of the piece or place them further up toward the
mouth. When you bore your piece you make a fluted cast iron box
like a bedpost & there ought to be sixteen channels or notches in
which you will slot sixteen blades quite evenly,
with in order that all together they cut & scrape in the
same manner. Because if some were to not cut & scrape, chambers
& waves would be made in the cannon which would make it lopsided and
there would be a danger that the piece might break in the middle. In
order to avoid this, it is necessary that the borer should pass
evenly from the breech to the mouth, & that the opening of the piece
should be evenly bored from one end to the other, because thus the
powder goes off all at once with more force. On the contrary, if
restrained, it goes sideways & makes the piece break.
CannonballThis is the true measure of the caliber, but the borer
always takes away a little more.
PetardThey are made better in crucible form, hollow at the
narrower at the bottom & becoming larger toward the muzzle. It is
necessary to pestle the powder thoroughly & put on top of it either
sand or cork or better still a fitted plate of wax
thoroughly pestled on top, for it seals precisely & makes for
greater force. The ball only makes a hole, the powder alone makes
more of an effect. One holds that, once loaded & kept in a dry place
for fifteen days, they have more force.
Culverin ball
Bastarde ball
Medium ball
Field piece
Falconet
Falconet of 4 quintals, alternatively passe-volant, is
8 pans long
3 quintals, is 9 pans long
2 quintals, is one cane long, which
is 8 Montpellierpans
1 quintal, is six pans and a
half
1 quintal and a half is 7 pans and a
half
60 lbmusket, is 5
pans and a half or 6
5 quintals is eleven pans and a
half
The measure of the caliber of pieces
The numbers and dots show how many quintals the piece weighs
that carries the marked caliber.
PewterersThey deem the best tin is the one that comes in
saulmons, which has not been remelted since it came from the
mine, because the masters remelt it a in
grille, weighing two or three lb, to easily
cut it up and sell it by the piece. And in this they often make a mixture of
leftovers from plates, solder & common tin.
And to recognize the best one, it is the most lustrous, which looks
burnished, because it is the softest. Sometimes in their saulmons they find pieces of iron, stones & similar
jumble to cheat on the weight. The tin from England is so hard that the miners put in
lead to soften it. The one that comes by way of Germany
is softer. Commonly, the sworn master pewterers, from
bonnes villes, add six lb of fine
leadon or eight on a quintal of fine
tin. The others, who work in the countryside,
put fifteen or 20 or as much as they can, and to cover up the blackness
of the leadthey and its softness, they put in
looking-glass tin, 4 lb per quintal,
+ po which whitens & hardens,
and a littlesix or eight lb of rosetteon a
quintal to render the plate sonorous.
To mold platters & dishes, they make them out of pierre
porte morte, which is
grais, & they turn & polish around
them on the wheel. They melt their tin in an
destiron pot on a charcoal fire, and with an iron spoon that holds
almost a sufficient quantity for a platter, they cast
leu in their cold molds, which they keep
joined & tight between their knees. And soon after, they
open the molds so that they do not heat up, & having taken
out the cast which is on the female side, & which breaks easily.
Then, with a cloth which soaks in water, which they
always have beside them, they rub the middle of the back of the dish
& around the edge, so that it comes out better, and rub the
female mold with it.
+
When the tin is fine, one adds less glass-looking tin,
namely 4 lb per quintal, but if the tin is base,
that is to say alloyed with a lot of lead, one puts
at least five or six lb of looking-glass tin to it.
If there is hardly any looking-glass tin, one puts about two or
three lb per quintal. One puts eight lb of
rosette. But if there is a lot of looking-glass tinone, like 4 or 5 lb, one only puts six of
rosette. And commonly, per quintal of tin, one
adds x lb of both.
Go to the fifth leaf.
Stucco for molding
Take tragacanth gum and put it to soak until, having drunk
its water, it is swollen & rendered like jelly. Then
grind it quite hard on marble & next take
rye flour, which is better than wheat
because it is more humid and does not make the paste as brittle, and
sprinkle your tragacanth gum with it, & continue to grind
and mix in thus, little by little, le et mesler
legi the very finely sieved flour. And knead it as if
you wanted to make bread, until you you perceive that
it has enough body & is as firm as bread dough that one is
ready to put in the oven. This is recognized when it can
stretch enough without breaking. And if it was not strong enough, it
would not sti release well. Once the paste is prepared, rub
the hollow form au u with oil, with a
brush, in order that the oil penetrates everywhere to make it
release better, and press the paste inside quite hard. And if it does
not release well, mix in more flour until it has enough body.
With this you will mold whatever work you like, masks or garlands, which
will be dry within one day. Next, you will apply them with
strong glue or paste glue, as you like, and you will be
able to paint and decorate them with gold & all colors. One
makes ceiling ornaments with it in Rome. One can make bed
ornaments with it. If you want that the work stays white, it
is better to mold with plaster instead of flour. It is
true that it is more brittle and firm as well, but one needs to prepare
it like this: temper it, when it is powdered strong, in a
good amount of water so that it is clear, & grind
it several times a day for fifteen days. Then pour off the
water by tilting, and gather the plaster & grind it
finely on marble, & place it in some kind of
clean lead vessel, so that no dust & dirt falls into
it, & leave it in the open air & in the serain
for fifteen days with its water, and
it will become matte, strong, white and light, very suitable for making
a seat for burnished gold. And this, in powder form, you
can mix, instead of flour, with tragacanth gum, and your
work will be very beautiful. Lacking plaster, you can mix in well
ground chalk or ceruse, & try bole &
similar things. This stucco with the tragacanth gum has
the quality that, yielding when it is not yet dry, it can be accommodated on either
round or flat things, as you like. It is to make an ornament at little
expense.
Flour is not good in this, but chalk or ceruse is.
Color of gold without gold on silverColor your applied silver leaf with terre emerita,
and once dry, give a coat of spike
lavender oil varnish and of sandarac. And it will be
more beautiful than tinsel.
Layer of burnished gold on paperMake your seat of starch soaked in water &
your gold will burnish very well. Clear starch water
layered on the paper, then dried, & repeated in this manner 3
times, is a good layer for burnished gold on simple paper
& has no body.
Removing stains
Good eau-de-vie removes them if you rub the garment with it.
Seat for goldGround terra emerita with some saffron, all
of it tempered with very clear strong glue & passed
through a linen cloth.
Extraction of oilsApothecaries say that anything which does not adhere to
the mortar while pestling is
oleaginous.
Dragon’s bloodTake a well chosen tear of it which shows off its transparent red.
And in a glass bottle put the best eau-de-vie you can find, in sufficient quantity. For
it And stop it well and so diligently that it does not vent,
otherwise it would be worth nothing. And leave it thus for a
long time, because the longer it stays there, the
more beautiful & better it will be & it will dissolve if it is
good, otherwise it will become like wine lees. When you want to use
it, make a small hole in the stopper of the bottle & pour a
little & stop it again each time, then apply it on gold.The good kind of dragon’s blood can be found in
large pieces like cake this one has no value and is
adulterated & once broken it shows on its edges scales,
transparent as rorouge clair enamel, it is
also lumpy in some parts like small rubies. The eau-de-vie needs to be very ardent &
passed several times.
The darker dragon’s blood is the best & has more of
a tint; it is the tear that is found in gr pieces like
peas and large hazelnuts which look like
.
I put it in common eau-de-vie, mixing in some
aquafortis to give it strength. At the beginning the
water took on a slight tint, but at the end there was only an
appearance of tragacanth gum with which I think they adulterate
the dragon’s blood.
When it is applied on burnished gold, it is prone to break. For
this reason, some coat it with turpentine varnish. Cold delays
the action of the water and the extraction of the color. And for
this reason, one can keep it close to the fire.
LeadThe best, fattest & softest is brought from Germany and
is not in saulmon, but in lattes of around an
arm's length & three fingers' width.
It is transported to Lyon, and from this, the leaf is made for
small mirrors in Nuremberg.
PewtererThey also make their molds from metal which lasts
longer & molds more cleanly than grais, because the
plate comes out without flashing & smooth. But this is for the
rich because a mold costs fifteen or sixteen
frans. They are mainly made of metal, for basins &
ewers & salt cellars & similar things which are fashioned.For pints,molds are made with
white clay earth mixed with horse dung & cloth
waste & well beaten, because the pints, being sunk in a half round,
would not be able to release as well from the grais mold
as from the earth, which is soft. One makes the noyau of
the mold of the said pints in grais.In metal molds, one makes vents and casts all at once,
which is the reason that in the middle of the dish, no smoky black line
which comes from the vapor & fumes of the metal that is cast,
which is the cause that in that spot, the work is lumpy & very often
pierced. However they repair it with solderdu
n, as is said. These fumes are made right in the middle of the
cast, & in grais molds.The plate can be hammeredmar to make
it more vendable. But it will not last as long.Depending on the size of their platters & plates, they have
notches on the spoke of their iron wheels. And when they
want to apply
any dish or plate, they loosen & undo with the strike of a
hammer the iron wedges that slide along the spokes of
the wheel. And, when they are at the notch and points that they
need, they tighten the said wedges, wedging them with the
hammer.When their plates or dishes have been cast, soldered if needed,
& purged of surrounding flashing with the hot soldering
iron & then with a large file, they adapt it on the
wheel; & first of all they wrap their
desgrusouedesgrusouer
with a rope, as thick rope as
the little finger, & lean it firmly on the
crossbar to secure it well. And while someone else promptly
turns the wheel, they guide the sharp edge of the
esgrusouer by hands toward the edge of the round hollow, & gently
guide it to the center of the circle. And this
desgrusouer is for removing the first rough &
lumpy skins of the work. And next they even it out with aecutting
iron called a plane, the sharp edge of which
they rub with a little putty on leather nailed
onto a piece of woodhaving, and this in such a way
that the flesh or grain is on the outside, for if the sharp edge of this
plane was not thus rubbed & burnished, it would
not polish & not burnish the tin,
au which would stay white, & not black &
burnished like a mirror. Moreover, they repair the work for the second
time with this plane as they did with the
esgrusouer. Then, with a knife or another
sharp iron, they scrape the edges of the platters or
plates to smooth them so that they are not found sharp when handled
Their hammers must be quite even & polished, and if by
chance the rust, the or some other use, has
damaged them, they first polish them with emery stone powder,
then they finish burnishing & smoothing with the putty.
Otherwise they would not strike neatly. It is also necessary that the
surface of the anvils be the same.
New vineHaving taken well, if you want it to grow strong branches, having
plowed it, put at each foot two handfuls of pigeon
dung.
Colored watersDistilled urine, distilled vinegar and
eau-de-vie take on a cerulean and green tint from pulverized and
finely ground aes ustum. And this tincture is red
copper in its residue if you distil the aforesaid things through a
filter.
Varnish resistant to waterFlanders varnish, made with turpentine &
oil of turpentine or mastic, can come off and does not
hold up in the rain. But that made with white walnut oil,
as you have done, holds in the rainand is
very clear & beautiful & dries soon. This is why one uses this
one for painted banners & signs that one carries in the
rain.
Fruit made from sugarOne does not paint them with a paintbrush like other
s things with moistened color, because the
sugar would melt. But one rubs them with color with the
finger.
PainterScribes achieve darkening of lake & other
colors for garments with egg yolk, but this is trumpery and
does not last.Others glaze reds from minium & others which are not
beautiful in oilM using glair of
egg, and it appears to be done in oil. But
humidity corrupts all this.
BrushesTake those that have been used a little by white-limers,
for the harshness of the lime & use make them more handleable.
Painting from nature
One ought not to undertake to work on it in overcast
weather because you would make your flesh colors browner than
one ought to.
Painting on glassFor blue, they take the coarsest azur d’esmail & grind it
on shale, & mix in two or three rosary
beads’ worth of rocaille or more, according to the
quantity of the work. And having done their drawing with noir
d’escaille (which is painted toward the light with the piece
of glass upright), they lay all their pieces on white
paperwhen for knowing by the whiteness of the
paper the lighting of their histories and as
set down all colors which are of one kind all in one go. Then they heat
it up.
The body of the cuirass
The high plates of the pauldron of the brassard are like a
masterpiece of the masters, for it is necessary that
these pieces be very precisely hollowed &
adjusted in order that the movement may be free. Cuirass bodies
must be very evenly beaten & driven with the hammer.Morions from Milan are all in one piece & thus better
than those that are of two.
PainterAs soon as the colors of panels are well dried, the Flemish
varnish them so they do not die any more than they already have & remain in that
state.The one who knows to work well in distemper will work well in
oil. But, on the contrary, the one who knows how to work well in
oil will not work in distemper.
For layering gold in distemper
Common painters & scribes make
batture, that is joiner’s glue tempered with
water on the fire, moderately clear, mixed with very little
honey, that is to say a few drops to make it stick. And
with it they form letters, or that which they want to gild,
with a paintbrush, and immediately after layer the
gold, but they never do their work quite neatly, and if there is
a lot of honey it dries only with great difficulty. This layer is
undone in the rain.Others do better, they temper candy sugar in water and
mix it with sanguine that they call
cocon, thoroughly ground, adding in a little
soap. This is done neatly, & renders gold beautiful if
one uses it as the seat.
Mat makerThey make two kinds of them in Toulouse, one to hang on the
partition walls of rooms, which they weave almost as fine as
the strawphats worn by villagers. And
they make them in long bands, some the width of ten
bstraws, others of thirteen. And they
work on them mainly in summer. And in
winter, when they put it to use, they sew it. But beforehand,
they put it in dye and commonly make it in three colors, green,
red, and sometimes violet. The green one is made in a single
pastel woad dye, because green being made from yellow and blue, the
pastel woad discharging itself onto the straw,
which shows its dark yellow, one obtains bright green. For the red, they
use alum and brazilwood. For the violet, they use
pastel woad & a little copperas, which
browns the blue with its black tint.
GlassworkerThey do not have the invention for making a perfect red in a work
which one needs to reheat. Nonetheless, try the red from German,
which is rouge d’escaille. They make their common red with sanguine,
looking-glass tin, rocaille,litharge & a little iron scales. The
said red is applied on one side & the other of the glass in order
that it has more color; if it were applied on one side only, it would be too
pale orange.
FounderThey buy rosette at xx lb a quintal,
which is harder to melt than latten because it is softer. For,
the softer the great metals# are, the soft more difficult they are
to melt. The tin for bells, which is fine tinis more and which is brittle, is easier to melt than lead,
which is soft. Latten made brittle by the calamine is
melted more quickly than red copper. The metal, which is the
substance of bells, mixed with tin, and very brittle, is soon
melted. The more silver is alloyed, the sooner it melts, that is
why solder is made with it. In Germany they make very
light candlesticks, it is because they turn them by means of
water, but they are breakable. A quintal of
perfine coppersmith’s rosette is
sold for xxx or 40 lb. Another, which founders use,
is sold for xii or xv lb. The quintal of metal,
six lb. Put in
#
Gold, silver, copper,latten, iron.
Knife for cutting the nose or a
fingerThis is a well-furbished knife, nailed through the
middle in such a way that it easily moves to one side & the other
& the side A, as readily as the side B, is hidden
inside its handle marked C. The two tenons you see at the tip of
the knife are for locking it on one side or the other against a
nail which is at the butt of the said handle, in order
that, when one wants to press hard on something to
cut it, it does not come out from the handle. You may allow the
side marked B to cut for demonstration purposes, but not
much, but the side that is notched A and marked A must
not cut. It It is sufficient that it be furbished well. And
also the notch needs to be as thick as the back of a
knife in order that it cannot cause pain. And you
will only show the part of the knife which is not notched, for
the side with the notch needs to be mar hidden
inside the handle. And when you want to cut the nose
or a finger, pretend to sharpen your knife on the
thigh and, while while doing this, turn the
knife deftly. & the part with the notch, which you will
cover l with one finger, will come into
your hand, and you will place the notch, colored with
brazilwood rosette or black cherry juice, upon
the nose.
The conjuror ought not to amuse himself by watching what he
is doing, but look at the spectators and give them plenty of
good hocus-pocus words so that they look at his face & not
at his hands.
X For relighting an extinguished candle between your
hands without blowing
X Take a small stick of well dried between
wicker and cut from it a small piece like a
toothpick, & la m put one end
between your index finger & middle finger and
clasp both your hands, fingers well joined, and pass
them deftly around the lit candle as if you wanted to cover it
with them, & your wicker will light, & immediately remove
your handsjo thus clasped, &
immediately put out the candle. And then put your
hands around it again as if you wanted to cover it, & your
little of lightpwicker light, by means of the smoke
that you are holding with your two palms the candle
will light. Then immediately extinguish your wicker &
secretly cast it aside.
For making it seem that to someone that he has a piece
of silver on his foreheadTake a token or piece of silver and wet it
and make it hold against your forehead. Then say to the
bystander that if you put it thus on his forehead,
he will not be able to make it fall without lifting his hands
to it, no matter how he shakes his head. And making it seem as
if you are placing it on his forehead, retain it in your
hand & wet your thumb with your
saliva then press it quite strongly on his
forehead. And thinking he has the piece on his
forehead due to the coolness of the
saliva, he will shake his ears & will get
nowhere.
For making blood or wine issue from
someone’s forehead or from a wallTake a funnel or funnel of fer blanc which is double-walled in the body d
but not in the spout. Make a small hole at the top edge &
au another, slightly bigger, on the inner wall that
will be a little above the spout, just as you can see in the adjacent
example. Then when you want to use it, put in wine
or liquid rosette of Brazilwood or black cherry
juice, and blocking the hole of the spout the with your
little finger, make sure that the funnel is well
filled in order that the wine can enter there between the
double walls through the hole at the side, & if it does not enter
well, making it seem as if you are tasting the wine,
suck & draw in a little air, drinking where the little hole
is. Next, make one of the close bystanders drink the rest of
the wine or cast it aside or let it flow through the tip, but
before, you must have pressed your thumb well over the hole on
the top edge, because in this way, by the compression of air, the
wine will be retained between the double walls. Then with a
bodkin rounded at the tip & that goes into its handle, you
make it seem as if you pierce the forehead of someone who holds
a glass in his hand, and while you pierce, you
cover what you are doing with the funnel that you hold
close to #
#
his forehead. Then removing your thumb from over the
hole on the top edge, the air, being free, will make the
wine issue from between the double walls through the hole marked
B, & fall through the tip marked C into the glass.
But you must make the fellow bend his head enough in
order to do it well.
For telling someone that by puttingholding a
finger to his forehead, you will prevent him from
exiting a chamberX Make him put his arm around a
bedpost or something similar, & with the same arm,
let him hold a finger to his forehead.
X Wager someone e that walking
to a certain place and back, he cannot say boot without spur four times
in a row
X If he tries to saya it,
but be sure that he speaks loudly, once he has been
there & back, you will tell him that he has lost, because he needed
to say boot four times without saying spur, for that is your
wager.
For making a candlestick hold to the wall without
making a hole in it
X Make a servant hold it to the
wall.
X How not to break a glass with a
log or a large stickX You will cut from it a small piece as thick as a
toothpick, & thus you will give him something from a
log or a large stick with which he will not be able
to break the glass.
Writing cunningly
Cut some long strips of fine parchment & mark them
according to their order with A B C & caetera, then have them sewn inside
the hem of a shirt of rough cloth, like that of a
messenger, who, if you want to tear up his shirt, will know
nothing of it.
For melting or transmuting a jewel put inside a
box
Take a box of boxwood banded with rings, as you see,
into which will easily fit another small box, like that which
you see marked B, and make it so that it does not touch the bottom of the
large one marked A, but that there is some distance. Also, that which enters
the large box must be smooth, but the rim must be made with
rings so that, being joined, it appears as if they are one and the same
box. You must also have a round leather cover of the
same length as the box, as you see marked C, which fits
leteasily & surrounds the said
boxes thus placed one within the other. But before you do your
trick, you must put at the bottom of the larger boxpowdered
gold or silver, or mercury amalgamated with silver,
and then place the little box marked B on top. Next, holding
the box with your index finger on top, you present
it, and seeing only the bottom of the smaller
box marked B, one places a jewel or something
similar in it. This being done, placing the box on the
table, you cover it with the leather box, and
making the requisite gestures, you will remove the leather
box, & without showing the inside, will put it on the
table & let it be recognized that the jewel is
in the placed in the bottom of the small box marked
B. Then you will gently place the leather box back,
& after saying
inhonorificabilitidinitadtudinibus, you will take
the top of the leather box with two fingers,
and with the clasping it more firmly than usual, at the same
time you d will lift pe the
smaller box that is inside & which contains the
jewel, & you will gently put both on the table,
then you will pour the powder or amalgam that is at the bottom of the
large box, then replace the leather box with
the box inside it, as it was at the start. Then, removing the
leather box without removing the smaller one, you will
show the jewel at the bottom which has returned to its previous
state, holding your index finger on the rim of the box
so that it does not slip.
For telling someone that you will show teach him something
he does not know, and neither do youTake a string or a small stick and take the
measurement from the tip of his ear to the tip of his
nose and show it to him. Thus you will teach him something
you did not know, and neither did he.
For supporting a bucket of water on the tips of three
knives laid down without touching the ground
According to the strength of your knives, either
kitchen or table, you will make them support a large
weight on their tips laid down & arranged in a triangle, edge to
edge, as you can see, & they would not touch the ground. And if,
after arranging them this way, you turn them the other way without
unjoining them, the tips of the handles can also support a large weight
without touching the ground. You can easily adapt this to another
use with pikes, with joists, or to promptly make a tripod in a
camp with three halberd points. If the edge of the
knife marked A faces from right to left, the butts of the
handles will rise, but if the edge of the same knife faces from
left to right, the tips will rise.
For boiling an egg in cold water without fire
Empty an egg from both ends so that nothing remains inside,
then fill it with quicklime & natural sulfur, then
stop the holes with wax & put it in water so that it
floats by two or three fingers.
For making rabbits come out of a burrowTake some embers in a pot, & having put
sulfur on top, put it in the burrows & block it
with something light.
For preventing someone from eating a foodstuffDry some calf’s foot root, otherwise
arum, & sprinkle the foodstuffswith it. There is no danger in this.
See Mathiol.
For transmuting grain from one vessel to
another
Take two small wooden bushels of the same
size, which should be hollow on the bottom exterior by about the
width of the back of a knife or more. One of these
will remain empty, & on the bottom of the other you will glue
kernels of grain with starch such that it will be
covered entirely with grain, & it will seem to be
filled with it. Take also a wooden bell into which you
will place as much grain as can be held within the
capacity of one of the bushels, and over the top put a simple
piece of leather that fits tightly inside the
bell. Put all into a bag or a napkin or a
folded handkerchief, if you do not want to use a
conjuror’s pouch. First show the empty
bushel, then in front of the audience fill it with
grain, then put it back in the napkin. Next,
leave that one there & take the other where the
legrain is glued with starch
& it will seem to be the first one, filled with
grain. Put it under a hat & place the
bell gently on the table for the first time. And if
you like, promptly & without stopping, show the bottom which will be
covered with white leather of the color of the
wood. Then pretending to show the bushel that is
under the hat, you will turn it deftly to the side that is
empty & leave it covered. Then you will command that by
invisibilium the grain pass into the
bell, which you will have tapped shortly before on the
table a little strongly, & the grain will
fall to the bottom & cover the piece of leather.
Then lift the hat; the bushelsemb will be found empty and the bell full
of grain, which you will scrape deftly along with the
piece of leather
so that it cannot be seen, & you will very subtly with conceit cast
it into the bag or pouch.
For transmuting a ball into a thimble,
cunning
Make a small sheath of plain leather, such as cow or
morocco, somewhat thick, as tall as three
fingers, sewn like the finger of a glove & large
enough that two fingertips can fit inside & which, at
the tip, which is a little puckered, has a round hole as large as a
double liard. Take one two similar
boxwood balls, & let one be hollow &
open with a round hole on one side only so that the thimble can
fit inside. Thus, when you want to perform, you will place your
leather sheath on the table with the
ball that is not hollow. Pass a stick inside the
leather sheath to show that there is nothing there, also
show the full ball, and hold the one which is hollow & has
the thimble inside it by your little finger & ring
finger, and do this with your right hand
with which you are holding the stick. Next, you take your
leather sheath & place it over the hollow
ball which is in your fingers, & making it seem as
if you are putting some oribus powder over it, you put
back the leather mold that
contains the ball with the thimble on the
table, then you take the round & solid ball
remaining on the table, and command it to enter from under the
table into the leather sheath. Then, when lifting
the leather, the ball seems to be the same,
although it is the hollow one. Then you cover it again & command it to
become invisible. And then, lifting the sheath while pressing
it, you will remove it & the ball along with it; &
l putting it aside with the sheath,
& a in its place will be found a thimble
for the ladies whose bottom hurts, that is to say, the bottom of the
needle.
FounderKitchen pots are made well, in order not to give a bad taste to
the food, with the same metal the bells are made of. It is
true that founablesders mix in
more latten to make them yellower, to make them more vendable.
But the latten by itself, & at a mere touch, is
stinking & of bad odor.Latten does not lose, or only slightly, its calamine
in an four à vent when it is melted in a crucible, nor
in a wood furnace, but it does in a
bellows furnace because bellows give violent fire.
Four à ventIt is necessary that it be narrower at the mouth than at the bottom. And it
is enough that the crucible be able to enter in it, & that there be
space to remove & take it with pincers.
Glassworkers’ glassOne says that in Lorraine & in Flanderswell-made glass is made of fern ashes &
pebbles, and first they blow a long bubble, which another
worker, with long shears, cleaves & cuts lengthwise.
Then, having set this long, cleft bubble on a stone or
large plate that is in the furnace, a little less
hot than for the melt, it is left to stretch out. And again in
addition to this, they flatten it with a long & thick round
iron rod, then they remove it to the annealing furnace.
It is made in the same way in England more beautifully.
Near Rouen in France, plate glass is made with
some salt ofsaltwort & pebbles,
that is whiter & more delicate than that of Lorraine. For
plate glass can be melted with a candle & not that
from Lorraine. That of plate is blown in a long bubble, of which
another cuts the end, then the blower flattens it while turning it &
while touching it to a surface that is on the ground,
A then puts it to anneal. Thus the
middle, whence it is begun, still remains.
The glass can be cleft again with the light of a candle
by wetting, but not as precisely as with the hot iron.
FounderThe metal whitens the more it is melted, because the
tin does not go away but rather mixes in more. And, by holding it
a long time in the fire, the filth is eaten away, which is what
makes it brittle. If you want to chase the tin from the
copper, after it is quite hot, throw in saltpeter often.
This only & not the fire separates it, & purifies it, & eats
the filth away. The metal is cast very neatly. The
copper is prone to swell, but because it is soft, it can be fixed
with a hammer.
Medicine for the stomachwhich heats it and unstops the liverTake Take wormwood powder, dissolve it
in capilli veneris syrup or preserves, & make
with it an opiate of which you will take once a week on
a host soaked in wine. Then you will be able to drink a
finger of sufficiently tempered wine. This
dissipates the phlegm & the winds which arise from it. You can take
six pepper grains & grate their rinds such
that they are smooth, & swallow them without chewing. This benefits
the stomach without heating the liver.
Foil backings for the gemstonesOnce made, one ought not to keep them in any case of iron
or metal, for this stains them, but in some box of
For keeping candles from dripping and making them white
Having made them, put into the moldfresh water well
beaten with bran, which should not at all be purged of its
flour, so that the water becomes white. And dip your
candles in that, then leave them to dry. And do thus two or three
times.
Gardener
For sowing melons well, it needs to be at the end of a
moon cycle, for otherwise they would bud too many leaves &
not bear enough fruit. Make small e holes, two
fingers by two fingers, with a stake
& put in each two or three seeds. Next, take very fine
earth & fill the holes lightly with it. Next, spread over
all the thickness of a thumb of havets, that
is to say wheatfl chaff, in order that the
coming rain does not beat the earth & prevent their birth.
Havets attract field mice who eat the seeds. And
for avoiding this, one must moisten them with s a
decoction of wormwood.
Glassworker
Some do not apply gris d’escaille to the glass
for painting on glass, but trace on the clean
glass with noir à huile. But it is very necessary that the
wood be rid of grease, for if it has
grease, however little, the color will not take on it at all. And likewise, if the
glassworker who is working has a stench from his
nose or his mouthla, & he
breathes on the glass, the color will not take on it.
Those who discovered the invention of working in small works of soft
enamels use only esmail d’azur, which is blue,
& esmail colombin, which is the color of purple,
which they soften with rocaille or leaded glass.
As for the yellow, they make it from silver, the red from
sanguine, as is said elsewhere, the black & gray &
shadows with noir d’escaille, either strong or weak,
the flesh color with clear sanguine. The green is made first
from yellow, then on top they coat esmail d’azur, either
strong or weak, according to whether they want to make it bright or
dark.
Yellow Amber
It is cut with a file, then one passes a certain pulverized
salt over it, which an Englishman called
desramonet. But I suppose that this was pulverized
pumice stone, for it had the harshness of arène. And with a
taut cord, he polished his amber, then passed
tripoli from Bretagne on it with the
finger, others with a piece of leather
or a cane. Amber loses its color if an unhealthy person
wears it, & becomes whitish. But to restore it, it needs to be
soaked for one night in urine, then boiled a
little in it.
SapphireOne finds sapphires that one calls of the trellis, because they are pierced and it is said that a
certain king had made from these a certain ornament in the
shape of a trellis, as would perhaps be the Screen of
Charlemagne, as it is called, in the treasure of Saint Denis, in which the gemstones are
mounted without leaf, so as to have the enjoyment of the light on one
side & the other, & to show their vividness. I have a white one one
that seems to be rough & pierced, and is spotted all over with blue
blemishes. I am of the opinion that these are artificial & that they
are of taffer or very clear esmail azuré
melted entirely on the sapphire. The file bites on it
as on the beryl.
SaffronIt is counterfeited & augmented with marigold leaves
half-dried, & twisted like a thread, & put in the
hottest sun to dry, & is mixed, & the said
marigold even gives some color.
SapphireStone cutters sometimes choose old pieces of antique
glass in church windows, which are much thicker than
those of today & are of more lively colors. If it is for
soufsapphire, they choose beautiful blue
& from such a place that there are no piecesgrains, if it is possible. And having cut it in squares with
emery, they cut it in bevel & polish it. And in this manner,
they counterfeit very beautiful sapphires. The old
esmail d’azur for silver verging on aquamarine was very
appropriate for counterfeiting sapphires, but it is scarcely
found. One counterfeits aquamarines with white glass, but
they take it from the bottom of the glass.
AmberThe orangeish color that is in transparent amber and in the
other one that has body is not internal, for on the inside it is
whitish. But through age it or wearing it, it acquires this
reddish crust. This is why those who cut it with the file or on
the wheel do not remove, if it is possible, this crust. But
they only polish it, rubbing it with a willow
stick or other soft wood dipped into water &
dusted with tripoli of Brittany, and it takes a
beautiful polish. If it is too straw yellow & you want to intensify
its color, hang it inside a chimney where there is much
soot & smoke, and it will take on a reddish-orange
color. Try to take the most whitish transparent one, and put it under
dung to turn it green, like bones. Or smoke it
in a closed space, with the smoke of safre or
manganese & other drugs that you know. Or in
urine & distilled vinegar mixed with colors, or in the
vapor of aquafortis boiling in copper, or
aquafortis boiling with silver & sal
ammoniac. & some cut amber in facets on a wheel
of soft wood with putty instead of
emery, & jet also. The salt called by the Englishde armonic is a mineral salt that resembles marble stone and is a very hard mineral with large pieces, like that of Cardona & Monserrat.
I have experimented by making it boil in lye or corrosive
water, it turns reddish on the surface. And if it is rubbed against
fir & soft wood before it is cooled, it is
easily cut.
Black color for dyeingTake lye of quicklime & litharge, mix & soak,
& you will make a tawny dye, & by reiterating it
you will make black. Try other colors with lye of lime.
Against nose bleed and for dyeingPestle some sorrel or lapathum
acutum of the sort that is red-veined, which is called
dragon’s blood, and apply it de to
the forehead of the one who bleeds. This herb is a strong
dye & makes beautiful violet.
Beautiful artichokesOne needs to prune them every year so that only
one stalk is left, & water them thoroughly. L
Also replant some every year, for the second
year they will bear very beautiful fruit.
Planting trees
One says that rarely a tree planted on St. Paul's
day fails to take, & for covering the bark, cow dung
is very appropriate, for it is not undone in the rain like earth.
MerchantThose who sell velvet & es other
stuffs by retail do not make double-entry books because selling by
retail & in detail it would be too much effort for them. They have
only their sales book & their account book. But those who sell in
bulk & those who traffic in pastel woad have
double-entry books.
Scarlets
Because one aulne costs seven or eight
lb to dye, they use cloths worth seven or eight
francs an aulne. But whoever wants something
beautiful se la should buy white cloth worth
fifteen francs an aulne & have it dyed with
pure scarlet pastel woad & a little cochineal.
Black cloth is thin so that the dyeing is
inexpensive.
GoldsmithThey assemble silver filings with saltpeter which
refines it & does not make it brittle. But gold filings are
assembled with borax or, to save the borax, with
lead, which refines the gold & softens it, for the
saltpeter would make it brittle, which silver does not do.
This is why, to save money, goldsmiths use it to assemble, in
order to save borax, which costs viii sous per
ounce, & saltpeter x sous per
lb.When goldsmiths have thus assembled their silver
filings with saltpeter, a red enamel vitrifies at the
bottom of the crucible. I do not know if the copper
mixed in with the silver is the cause. Try for
enamel.
Pastel woadIt is grown in Lauragaiswhere the depth of the earth is so
fertile that if one were to grow wheat there every
year, it would lie flat for being too vigorous. This is why
one alternately does pastel woad and wheat
there. For the cultivation of pastel woad, one ploughs
the soil with shovels of iron, as gardeners do.
Next, one harrows it with rakes, & breaks it up finely as
for sowing cooking herbs. One commonly sows it on
St. Anthony’s day in January. One makes eight harvests
of it. The first ones are better. The best pastel woad
of Lauragais is the one from Carmail & the one
from Auragne. And sometimes the pastel woad
is good in one field & in the one close by it will hardly
have worth. The goodness of the pastel woad is known
when, put in the mouth, it gives a taste as of
vinegar, or when crumbling & breaking it, it has some
mold-like veins which are as if golden or silver. One assays it in the
dyers’ vat, and to fill a vat with it, one
needs six balls of it. In this, one dyes several locks of
wool, and if it dyes fifteen times, it is said to be fifteen
florins, if it gives xx dyings, xx florins. The good
kind dyes up to 30 times & commonly up to xxv or 26.
EnamelEnamel takes more readily on copper than on
silver. It is true that the cut needs to be well hollowed out
& rough. Azure in body & the red called gules, white
enamel & dense green take to it very well. Having
enamelled, one gilds the foeillages of the
engraving. Copper has a similar
hardness for engraving as fine silver or
pistolet
gold.
Colors for illumination on glassIn order that your turpentine colors do not spread, &
hold together, mix in a little of tear of mastic together with
the turpentine.
Tracing some history on glassIf you want to trace some history in intaglio on glass, you
can do it in different ways. Lay your glass paneon,
the thinnest you can find, on the printed history, & having cleaned
the glass well with lye & ash so that it is not
greasy, trace over the lines visible to you with noir à
huile or noir d’escaille with the
paintbrush; if you want to paint with colors in the
fashion of glassworkers, who wash their glass pane with
noir d’escaille & then scrape & clear the parts
which they want to coat with color, leaving that which is necessary for
shading. But if you want to make gilt histories on glass
with a background of colors, which imitates the basse-taille of
goldsmiths, gild your entire glass pane with
gum water or garlic juice or milk of the fig tree.
Then moisten your printed history between two wet
linen cloths, and lay it down on the gilt
glass. Then with a pin mounted on the end of a small
stick, follow the lines of your history as if you wanted to
pounce it, & thus you will exactly trace it on the gilding of
the glass. & next you will clear the background & that
which needs to be blank with a quite pointy steel awl,
& neatly follow once more the lines & accomplish your work
& make your faces & flesh colors in argent moulu;
then you shall fill the background with azur d’esmail or
verdigris or fine laque platteplatte tempered with clear
turpentine, mixed with a little of tear of mastic if you want
that the colors are more even & do not spread. Next, layer on
the back of the glass & over the colors a white tin
leaf. And once this is dry, you can cover the tin leafof with color to hide your secret. The tin leaf gives
light to the colors. Thus you will be able to paint without being
at all expert in painting. If your glass pane is bulging as
if taken from the belly of some jar, it will show all the better for it. When you apply
your turpentine colors to your glass panes, first place
them on a hot tile &, once they are hot, spread your colors &
leave it a while on the tile, then lay down your tin sheet.
DyeSome take the root of lapathium acutum
maius, which resembles monk’s
rhubarb or sorrel, & with the root, which
is yellow in the summer, they dyethread &
similar things.
AquafortisSome put onfor four pounds of
substance of aquafortisfour which are in the
retort four ounces of common water in the
receptacle, which is better than putting it into the
retort. One de-phlegms & calcines alum in order that
the water does not have as much dregs. Several make it without
de-phlegming the alum.
VinegarOne holds certain that heating red-hot the mineral salt, which resembles
marble & which one calls Cardona salt in
Catalonia & at the border of Spain, thr
& throwing it in the all red or quite hot into wine,
that it turns it into very good vinegar.
Some make it with water poured on pomace soured after
being pressed by vintagers, but it does not keep, &
spoils in heat & thunder storms.
Buttons of vermeillesBecause vermeilles do not fear fire, one cuts them
into lozenges flat on one side, then one joins them
together in a star shape in a paste of ground enamel, next one
melts it & one gilds the enamel with gold leaf
which one reheats.
GrottosTo fill some empty place that cannot be laden with some sort of
hanging rocks, one puts a piece of thick parchment close to the
fire, which shrinks & crumples. Then one paints it with
distemper, then in oil. Next one affixes it.
Cross of the commanders of MaltaThis beautiful rouge clair which makes the field of
the white enamel cross is blood of fine tear of
dragon’s blood tempered with eau-de-vie
or else Indianlaque platte, which in my opinion is made
in Flanders, tempered with clear turpentine & tear
of mastic & laid down on a silver leaf, not the kind
which the painters use, but a thicker kind, which is
burnished by those who make gemstone foilsAv or by goldsmiths, & that gives it
this beautiful brilliance.
Latten and calamineFounders do not melt latten in a
à ventbellows furnace but in
crucibles, for in a à ventbellows furnace &
amid the charcoals, the calamine would go away.
A
MetalTin should be pure for if there is any lead, it will
go up in smoke while melting. Mixed tin holds in the fire for a
long time but the cendrée separates
it.
AquafortisIf your retort is well luted, you ought not to surround it
with ashes, which would only get in the way of chasing
the spirits properly. But when, at the end, you give it violent
fire, surround it with chacoals which should be lit elsewhere beforehand,
as those in the furnace should be, in order that they do not
crackle & do not make smoke. Put the said lit charcoals around the body
of the retort, & not close to the neck, which does not need
to be heated as vigorously. The top grate, where you set your
retort, is sufficiently far, one dour or
half a foot, from the bottom grate where the
charcoal is placed, for by doing this not as much of it is
wasted.
Earth for casting, for foundersIt renders itself fatty once beaten and also mixed with
horse dung. Potter’s earth would be
too fatty and would crack & would not hold in the fire, but one needs
to mix it with half as muchsand and a quarter
or a fifth of horse dung. And leave
it to dry, then turn it to powder, then sift it to render it fine &
purged of gravel, which would prevent it from casting neatly. The dung
renders the earth more amenable & easier to deal with, but it
is necessary that it be well free of straw & other things.
And when the earth is very fatty, one needs to give it more sand
& more dung. But one does find fatty earths,
in and of themselves mixed with sand. If they are not, do it by artifice.
One always needs to reheat the earths before casting.
Garden lilyIf one breaks it at its first blossom & it will bud & bloom
only in the following year, & I believe
bulbous herbs do this.
SandThe sandcast for casting should be chosen neither so
lean that it has no hold, nor too fatty. And although it is found
in nature, it is nonetheless not everywhere. And if you
are in a place where it is not found, you can make it, but not with
fatty earth, for the sand does not want it at all, for it makes
it very porous. But you can give it bond with brick thoroughly
ground on marble, or plaster or calcined
alabaster or something similar, or the burned marrow of
ox horn or burned aspalte throughout. If you grind it quite
finely on porphyry, it s acquires
hold & then you can burn it with aspalte or mix
it with a quarter part of tripoli. Guard against
bread falling into your sand because it makes it very
porous.
Try mixing in soot black.
DucksYoung domestic ones do not grow for a month
after they are hatched, but remain in this state. But after that they grow quickly,
especially if they go into the water. One feeds them with boiled
millet grains, crumbling in bread for them
and scattering in well chopped lettuces.
Glassworkers’blackIron scale taken from bars that have been in the fire for a
long time, & which is thick, is much better
than that common delicate kind that falls under the anvil in the
forge, because it imitates niello. To the said black,
described elsewhere, some add d a little
minium to it.
Sheared ewesIf the shearer sometimes wounds them, he puts
the very dung of the ewe on top. When they
are fat, they are easier to shear & do not get wounded so easily.
If the shearer wants to viscorter them, that is to
say castrate, when they are one or two years old, he
must not have been with his wife for this would make the sheep
die.
Colors and gilding on glassOne ought not to give as strong gum water on glass for
the gold layer as forsilver layer as for the
gold layer because a silver leaf is twice as strong as a
gold leaf. Also, silver is harder and therefore does not
scratch as easily. Q And if the gum was not a
little strong for the silver, the latter would not split so
neatly. When you work, the humid the exhalation of your
breath moistens the leaf laid on the glass, &
therefore it would be good, while working, to heat it up a few times.
You need to be very careful to wash that which you want to be blank
& serve as a background for painting with colors, for if it were not
quite clean of the gum’s greasiness & viscosity,
the & of other things, the colors would not be so neat
on it. To advance your works, you can pounce, or, better still,
layer the gum & leaf on a cut paper. In this way, you
will only need to repair very little. If you want to make gold color
there without gold, mix soaked dried saffron with a little
massicot.
FounderThe mold of earth is reheated until, sometimes, it
is as if red, for otherwise the metal would spatter &
would not do anything good. And similarly, the noyau on the
inside should be very reheated, & mixed with charcoal
powder.
Wax for seal and imprint
For the large wax seals, you need to have tepid water
always ready & apre keep your wax in
it. But before, it should have been kneaded between your hands
to render it very uniform, for otherwise the water that would get in
between would prevent it from becoming uniform. Next, you will press it into
whatever you want and put three or four pieces of paper on, &
with a stickyou even & round like a
pestle, you will roll it as if you wanted to polish it, and it
will attach itself to the paper, which will help you lift it off
the mold. Thus you will imprint better than if you were to cast it
molten. You can carve the figures & gild them, silver them, &
paint them with colors in varnish, & transfer them onto a
base of glass painted with colors in turpentine &
mastic. And if you want to apply these plates by incrustation, do it
with gum ammoniac tempered with vinegar, and you will have
good glue.
For casting in plasterMelt some wax, & with a large brush coat the
relief of which you want to have the hollow form, as if you wanted to paint
it. And a light crust upon which qu will form,
upon which you will cast youplaster, to give it body
and strength. Next, in the hollow form of wax, you will also cast your
plaster in order to have your relief, & it will release very
easily because of the wax. This is done more for large
pieces in high relief than for others.
Pounced design for scratching satinAfter you have pounced with flour or ground chalk, in
order that the dots of the pounced design be not erased, follow the
trace with glair beaten with the milk or bark of the
fig tree, which will immediately make it clear up like
water, & without becoming thick, it will keep the trace, which
you will follow again & scratch with d a
piece of glass or a penknife.
Canvas for painting in oil without breaking
In order that your picture in oil does not break & spoil
in the folding of it, make your layer with honeyoil, a bit of
oil, & water, &flour.
Painting in oil on taffetawhichIn order that the oil does not run, make your first layer
with honey, alum water & starch water.
Sand for castingThe main thing is to grind it well on marble,
& that it be impalpable & mixed with a little calcined
alabaster.
For outlining a portrait
Follow the lines with lake ground with olive
oil, which will not dry.
White varnish on plasterGive two or three coats of quite white glue for
painting. Next, varnish with varnish of sandarac, spike
lavender oil, and a little mastic. And in the
evening put it into a vessel, all pestled well together,
without fire, which would turn it yellow. Then with a
paintbrush, it is dry immediately. Pour the oil,
which will have taken the substance.
Mericotons and pavisOne should graft them en during Advent of
Christmas provided that it does not freeze too much.
White bronzing on plasterOne needs to give four layers of painters’ distemper glue
on the plaster portrait, always leaving each layer to
dry. Next, with minium from England ground on marble, or
burnt lead, grind av & temper with a bit of
gum or goglue, & coat lightly. Once
dry, rub lightly with a little cotton and the plaster
portrait will seem to be of lead. Others grind minium with
quicksilver.
Purple℞ stagno dolce, meza onça, farlo
fondere in un cochiaro.
Depoi fonduto, gectarly dentro una ℥ de ☿, mesedar
insieme.
Essendo freddo, macinar supra il porfidio. Dapoi piglia
una ℥ de sal armoniaco, una ℥ de solfo
del più giallo
que se possa troval, macinar tutti duoi. Et poi mesedar
molto bene tutti gli matteriali sopradetti. Dapoi metter tutto
insieme dentro un a pignattasublimatorio di
vetro, tenerlo
sopra picciol fuoco una hora & una
hora un poco piu forte
& una hora bonissimo fuoco, et sarà fatto.
Dapoi, per
adoperarla, datte il negro di resina con colla
di pintori da
pintar & per doi o tre volte, fin a tanto che sia ben
negro.
Dapoi datte un poco di vernice. Essendo secco, datte a secco
conditto la purpurina dove vorrette. Tanto più ne
darette, sarà
piu bello. Dapoi, si volete, datte vernice sopra.
White bronzing
Apply black with glue, as was said, on the medal, then
varnish. Once dry, grate minium from England
on top with a paintbrush or a finger.
The said grated minium embellishes lead medals.
Varied and transmuted wineGrate brazilwood very finely, put it to soak one or
two hours in clear water, then take this
tinted water & add to it some clear water & you
will make ewine as claret colored as you like. If you
please, put a drop of lemon or orange juice in it &
it will immediately turn white. It can be drunk without danger.
PearlsIt is said that pulverized talc blown into with a lamp
renders them thus.
ArquebusierFor firing your arquebus precisely, it is necessary that the end
of the breech be & come precisely to the edge of the touch-hole,
because in this manner the powder, without blowing, catches &
burns all at once & has more force & does not push back. On the
contrary, if the breech is made hollow, as they commonly are, the
powder catches sooner in this place, makes it push back, &
blows, which a chambered arquebus clearly
shows, which pushes back more than another. And since the barrel is
thicker at the breech than at the muzzle the sights are also uneven, for
that at the breech is higher than that at the muzzle. And then, the
thickness of the barrel gains about one line over the caliber,
and the sight another. It would therefore be necessary to either
make the barrel all of one thickness or to raise the stock on at
the end & toward the muzzle, & sink it in & lower it
toward the breech. The weight of the
powder must be the third part of the ball.
Hail shot of the arquebusIf you want it to go together, set a
piece of felt or leather or
paper on top, according to the distance, & let
thee piece be made with a cutting-punch precisely
cut at according to the caliber of the arquebus.
The range of an arquebusThe proportion is of the fowling piece is 4
king’s feet long & the ball xviii
deniers, the charge vi
deniers of powder, its range iiiixxpans & 3 feetlxi & a half, two
inches & a few lines, which is the
Parisaulne. The medium
hackbut, which is the usual one & the
easiest, carries a ball of xv deniers, v
deniers of powder & a range of lx
paces.
PewtererThey mix viii lbor ten of lead, per
quintal of tin in cities where they are sworn
masters. But elsewhere, they add as much as they can. One
also uses ii lb of looking-glass tin to bind it &
three lb of debris, that is to say the copper shards
that coppersmiths make. This makes the plate more
sonorous and it is not as breakable.
This tin is called common tin.
ArquebusTo keep it from pushing back, it is necessary to clean your arquebusevery eight days, & rub it with oil, & when you
fire, wet some linen cloth in oil & put it in instead
of paper.
LakeTo test it, temper it & apply it to paper, & if one or
two hours later it does not die there, it is fine
and good.
Dyes from flowersThe red poppy, which grows amongst grains,
makes a very beautiful columbine on white leather. The
cornflower makes a very beautiful blue. A plant which
grows in hedges, which has a stem similar to flax, a long &
broad leaf like small bugloss, which has a violet flower
verging on blue & is shaped like the lily flower, makes
a very beautiful turquin, surpassing azure. Another flower, the
columbine, of the shape & size of the
bugloss flower, which has a petal resembling that of the
pansy, also makes a very beautiful turquin. It grows
amongst grains, in light soils.
white
Horsehair sieves
They are made at Coustance in Normandy with
horse tail hair which they clean with lye because
they sort them with the mouth & separate out short
& broken ones. They do not make the reed longer than the
sieve, & the reed is round. They attach to both edges of
the reed the hair, either black or white, according to
the work they want to make. And the weft is is
done over & under as for making any other fabric. And passing a
small flat stick of ii or three fingers wide
between, next they pass two hairs at each step of the pedal
and weave with three pedals. There are xviichairs in the entire sieve. They sell them by the dozen & each dozen
xxx sous. They bring them to Toulouse to
transport them afterward to Spain, and take silk tammy
in exchange for it .
Excellent water against the plague of Monsieur de
MontorsinTake some theriac, rue &
dittany, & good vinegar, put the whole in a
glass bottle, leave it half-open & well strapped, and
put it in a very long bath for three or 4 days. Then
separate your decoction from the residue, of which in time of
need you will pour some on a flaming red tile & receive
the vapor of it & also fumigate your clothes with it. This is a very
rare & tested secret.
White soporific oilTake x or 12 mandrake apples, put them in quarters
in olive oil, the whole in a vialglass bottle which you will place in a bain marie for
two days and your oil will turn white. If you
rub the soles of your feet with the same, you will soon feel
like sleeping.
StuccoFor glueingstone, some do not use
poiresin & black pitch resin
because it is too fatty, but take rosin & sulfur,
as much as of one as the other, & as much of
wax as the two together, and mix it with pestled brick for greater
strength. Others, white chalk or white stonepestled & pulverized
& sieved.
Loading an arquebus with hail shotOne needs to make a wooden pipe as long as the width of 4
or 5 fingers, which should be hollowed precisely according
to the mouth of your barrel, of the form represented in D A.
Then, having cut strong paper, of the as of large printed
books, in the form of D, as wide as you want to make your
cartridge long, wrap the paper
around the baton B & at the end, where the point F will be,
fold all around the said paper, & your cartridge will be
formed. But in order to make the bottom more uniform, put it into
pipe A, then put in the baton B and, through the other
end of the pipe, which is marked G, put the baton C
& beat so as to tamp & press the folded tip of your cartridge,
then take it out, & load it. Put three or 4
pieces of shot or
tears into it. Then, with a
cutting-punch, marked E, which should be of the same caliber as
your arquebus or pistol, punch round pieces on cardboard or
felt or waxed cloth, and put this round piece into your
cartridge, and push it onto the pieces of shot with the
baton B. Next, more pieces of shot, 3 or 4, then a round
piece. And do thus until the cartridge is full, then put it into your
arquebus. If you want your hail shot to scatter sooner, make the round
pieces out of paper. If you want it to reach farther without
scattering, make the piece out of cardboard. If you want even
farther, make the round piece out of waxed cloth, or else of
leather or felt, & a piece of waxed cloth on
the top. And if you make the cartridge itself of waxed cloth or
waxed paper, it will reach one hundred paces & will
make for great piercing, & the hail shot, barely scattering, will
make an opening. But if you make your cartridge with waxed cloth
or a material stronger than paper, you ought not to make so long
the part coming from the square to the point as in D, because it is enough
that it wraps around twice, #. In this manner, the hail
shot barely scatters & makes for great piercing against a door,
cuirass body, and others.
as D H
Loading an arquebusYou ought to have different charges according to the range that you
want to give to your arquebus, all of which should have a screw
on the end that fits in the nut of the ramrod of the
said arquebus. Thus, when you have put the powder in the charge,
which is in the nut, hold the ramrod upright. And
raising your arquebus up, insert the said ramrod until the
charge is at the bottom of the arquebus, then right the arquebus, the
mouth of the barrel up, and remove the little ramrod. Thus your
powder will be entirely in the breech without any of its grain or
dust attaching to the sides of the arquebus, which always has some filth
in the chamber. Thus it will not push back, and you will shoot more
true.
For adjusting a crooked cannonTake off the breech and place it on an smooth & well-leveled
table and pass through the inside a very smooth string without
knots, on each end of which there should be a plumb
hanging from each side. Then look into the barrel along the
string, and if it does not touch equally all over, note the
place where it does not touch & hit with a hammer on the outside on
that side & in the same place, & thus it will be righted, &
do thus all the way round.
For the teeth, oil of sulfurSome people whiten them with confections of
aquafortis; however, one says that this corrupts them
afterward & causes a blackness on them. One says that oil of
sulfur is excellent, but one needs to mix it in this way: take as
much clove oil as can be held in a
walnut shell, and as much rose honey,
& seven or eight drops of oil of sulfur, & mix
it well all together. And after having cleaned the teeth with a
small burin, touch them lightly with a end little
cotton dipped in the aforesaid oils and leave it there for a
little while, then spit or rinse your mouth with tepid
water, and reiterate two or three times. Oil of sulfurpenetrates & is corrosive, and the but the
clove oil & the rose honey correct it.
Therefore use it with discretion.
Wheat oilApplied to hair, it makes it fall out & keeps it from being
born.
Against the falling sicknessTake or four or five fresh crow eggs,
& the over the space of 4 or five
mornings cook one of them, and, having mixed in it a bit
of powdered gentian & one drop of oil of
sulfur, give it to the patient. It is held that the pain will not
return.
Against cold goutsOil of guaiac & of sulfur mixed together,
applied.
Go Flowers of trees
Those that are seen with everyes
new ☾ scarcely come to
profit. One ought to leave only two buds on the graft.
Scribe, Oil of sulfurIf the scribe wants to clean his quill promptly
of the thickness of the ink which has dried on it, one only needs to
soak in oil of sulfur. And it will immediately be white &
clean. Urb.
ShoemakerIf he wants to do some tanned work on black leather shoes, he
can dip a writing quill in oil of sulfur and paint with
it what he would like on shoes, boots, and colets. And he will obtain a
reddish color which will not disappear by any effort. Urb.
Erasing a letter
Dip a writing quill in fresh & good oil of sulfur
& thus retrace all the letters with the dipped quill &
they will disappear on parchment. Urb.
Writing without ink
Write with oil of sulfur & heat & the letter will turn as
black as this one. Urb.
Making a letter à jour on paper and other
work
If you write d or trace something on the
paper & heat it quite soon, & immediately it will turn
black; then by rubbing with a sponge, the letter will be cut
because it will be burned. Urb. Or retrace the letter with a
dry quillof.
Making someone’s boots burn
Rub with the aforesaid oil, & as it becomes
warm, they will burn without a flame. Urb.
On stone, black letters
The same oil on letters engraved in
stone & heated turns black & penetrates.
For teethSal ammoniac i ℥, rock salt
1 ℥, alumhalf an
℥. Make water with the retort, and
as soon as you touch the tooth, the tartar & blackness will go
away. It is true that it has a bad odor, but you can mix it
with rose honey & a littlecinnamon or
clove oil.
Antimony oilIt yellows quite strongly, even silver, if you put it on it
being heated.
Against falling sickness or vertigoHung round the neck, wear root of peony
which should be picked at the waning of the moon.
Crucibles
Those from Bayonne, which seem to be made of
grès are better, for they last, without comparison,
longer than others. And because they are not very thick, one wastes less
charcoal melting gold & silver, for they heat
quickly. They do not drink as much silver as the others,
& for this reason, there is hardly any residue to be
found in them. They are less prone to tipping as others that have a
flat foot.
Against diarrhea and dysenteryAgainst diarrhea, it is very good to use preserve of
symphytum, also called consolida maior. And
if it is against dysentery, you can rub with it the temples,
the hollow of the hands, & the soles of the feet
with wax oil & take one drop or two of it with a
spoonful of broth. The root of consolida
maior, pestled & put between pieces cuts
in a piece of beef, then boiled, rejoins them, as they say.
A drink having a taste of wineTake tartar from large vessels & soak it in
water & it will have the taste of wine.
Founding
Some, to make it run neatly, put halfmetal &
halfcopper. Others take one part of
potin & one part of copperlatten. Others take one part of candlestick
latten & one part of basin latten. And among
basins, the latten of larger ones is brittler than that of
skillets, because for making the curve of the round so small it is
necessary that the substance be softer. For big ones, to which they give a more
ample curve of the round, a brittler substance can be taken. In any event,
the brittlest latten runs better & casts more neatly, but
let it be cast very neat hot. One When one wants
to cast, one casts lead into the substance, which makes it flow
& run & goes up in smoke, & keeps the mold from
corrupting. And if you want to cast fire pieces, mix in more
rosette than latten, in order that it be less breakable. The
crucibles for melting metal should be better than
those for glassmakers, as glass is not as
heavy as metal. And in this instance, one needs to lute the
crucibles with earth and pestled glass.
CruciblesThose that are made in winter & humid
weather are not good. Those of the founders must be thick
and must be luted.
Casting
Finely calcined pumice stone casts 22 caratgold without repair, but it needs to be ablaze and red like the
metal. And it withstands several casts.
FounderThe heatingFor a furnace for melting a large quantity of
metal
Curing dogs of mangeGive them a pill of precipitate,
that is to say iii or 4, or up to 5 grains, mixed with their
food. Having given it to them for one oneweek, give them another seven or eight
days after.
Excellent mustardDry bread in an oven, then lard it with
cloves & cinnamon & thus put it
to soak in good wine. Then, pass everything through a
tammy cloth, being well pestled, & incorporate it
with your mustard seed.
Keeping birds and animals
skin them Take a measurement of their body,
which is fleshy & more subject to decay, with some
canvas that you will cut to their size & width.
And having cou filled it with cotton &
sewn it, skin them, birds leaving, however, the head,
the neck, the wings & the feet on the birds, & the
head, the legs & the feet & tail on the animals, because those
dry easily. Then fit that skin on the ayoumold made of canvas. Small ones are dried
in an oven or prepared with sal ammoniac &
.
Extraction of regulus℞ one lb of antimony, half a lbblack
soap, and half a lb of tartar from
Montpellier. Once the whole is pulverized, one needs to
boil in a varnished earthenware pot on a big fire while
stirring the whole often with a pick of wood or
iron, & the said soap will be consumed and burn
off and the rest will stay as if red, and it will be necessary
that it is reduced by a third. Then one needs to cast it on a
tile and it will turn blackish. One will need to melt this four
or five times and pour it on the flat tile and then you will
have the regulus drawn from antimony.Others pulverize the antimony & mix it with
saltpeter & pulverized tartar, as much of one as of
the other, &, having heated a pot or crucible
red hot, they put a little of it at a time, & se
turn their back for fear of the fumes, and continue thus until
everything is put in, and strengthen the fire until everything is
thoroughly melted & melt it again several times.
Lead, tinThey become brittle having been put back to melt often or for a long
time, and they thicken and burn, in such a way that even when one melts
a saulmon, the tin thickens at the bottom if, while
casting, one does not stir it often. It is best for casting to melt
little lead& the or tin &
stir to renew it at each melt. The antimony renders
them breakable. The looking-glass tin whitens them.
OnePewterers put in on the fine
tin one lb of looking-glass tin per one
quintal of fine tin & two lb & a half
or three lb of red & soft cauldron copper, which
is better than latten. There is fine & soft tin &
brittle tin. The brittle one is cast in grille
by the pewterers to sell it better. O
They come out better & more neatly in stone molds
than in a copper mold, because copper is fatty
& sticks unless one heats the mold well or one casts large
works. Three quarters of lead per one lb of
soft tin, makes a very liquid line & proper for
casting, which has a shine like a mirror. Sandiver lightens them.
And all things that thoroughly lighten metals & remove their
thickness & dense nature & render them like liquid
like water, render them proper for casting, for it is the
thickness that prevents them from running. Soft tin is
more even com than the brittle one, which is
whiter and seems to be burnished like a mirror.To alloy well tin & lead, one needs to melt one by
itself, and then mix in the other, small pieces at a time, and throw it
often on the marble or the square tile.
And when you will see it become quite even like & shiny
as if it were burnished, it is good. For sometimes it becomes spotted
due to too much lead & sometimes due to too much tin.
There is some tin which takes more lead than another.
Common tin is the one that is mixed with lead.
ut to us
Casting of leadThose who cast those small works that are sold in front of
churches, y melt one for one
lb of tin a half of lead, &
cast in stone, & if they want their work whiter, they put
phalftin and halflead, but
the first mixture is the best, & does not become porous. One needs
to cast it rather hot, for otherwise, it would not flow. Others smoke
their molds with a resin candle to cast neatly. The
antimony makes the substance brittle & breakable. The
looking-glass tin makes the work whiter, but not more runny; as
for tin, it works well to the with pure lead.
Those who make very neat lead casts, use puncheon.
Pewterers cast in a copper mold. One says
that one makes lead take hold on glass with
resin. Some put into the lead a quarter of
tin. Looking-glass tin renders the work stronger.Poncet
They cast with solder that pewterersglassworkers use.
Lump of ironCalcined ironoyster shell
Sand for lead castingRye straw ashes well boiled then dried & then
well sieved. Bind it with glair of egg. One can cast
copper, latten, and others in it.
Another
Burnt & calcined pumice stone. Burnt & calcined
cuttlefish bones, as much of one as of the other;
& ashes of walnut tree or vine, well
boiled, dried & finely sieved,
bound with glair of egg.
PewterersThey put into one quintal of fine tin one
lb of looking-glass tin, which renders the tin
thicker. There are two kinds of tin, one of them nearly like
lead, which runs better, the other brittle, which becomes
thicker. They cast in solid & thick tin molds or, to
do it more neatly, in copper molds engraved with a
burin, or in stone, or in earth. Since
latten scraps, mixed in, only render the tin more
breakable & harder & difficult to work with, they cast
in their very hot molds& almost red &
with very hot tin. They fumigate their tin molds with
resin candles.Brittle dou tin is found mixed into
saulmons, easy to cut, but difficult to put to use & melt
if it is not mixed with the other soft one. And without this,
it would become waste.
BirdsCalandra larks & all
birds taken from the nest & which have not had freedom are
better, for these which are taken by net never sing so well. However,
the wild ones give much pleasure with their
chanting, but they ought be taken before St. Michael,
otherwise they scarcely live. A small impostume occurs on all on the
fork of their tail, occasionally, which some call gaillardise,
which makes them sick & sometimes makes them die, especially
calandra larks. One knows this when they are sad & do not sing.
One must pierce it av, not with a pin, but
very gently by turning with the tip of quite pointy feather.
The calandra lark does not want to be without greyriver sand, & the grey is the best, a little coarse. It rubs itself in it
& purges itself with it.
Grain of leadTake a piercedplaying card, pierced with a
pin or needle, folded on all four sides. Hold it with
the end of a small cleft stick and, holding the said
stick by one endthe other end,
put your card three or 4 fingers away from
the water that you will have put in a dish or similar
vessel. Then pour your lead, which should not be too
hot, into the card & continually tap on the stick
that holds it. And thus your lead will granulate itself roundly.
And pass it through a coarse sieve to separate the largest grain
from the smallest. The largeish one will reach 25 to 30 paces.
BirdsThose that can are taken at St. Michael are
good for keeping, but those that are taken in March die,
because they are starting to fall into love. Ortolans
are fed on oatsall summer in order that they are nourished without becoming
fat, to be more appropriate for hunting & catching others.
Then, when one wants to fatten them for selling, one gives them
millet. They sing at night. One needs to
c take them after mid-July until
St. Michael, for after that time when they have their young in
this country, they go away like turtledoves do. Siskins
should also be taken from All Saints’ Day until
Christmas, for after that they go to the mountains to
brood.
Ortolans are ventriloquists, such that singing without
opening the beak, one would say that they are.
Keeping fruit for the entire year℞ a glass ampul with an opening capable of
receiving cherries and plums or whatever fruit that
you want. Put in some hot waterfor the space of two
hours. And when your water is cooled, throw it out &
turn the opening upside down on a quite even &
table, & in a room where there is not a drop of air &
of wind. Then en prepare a stopper of new
wax, wrapped in waxed canvas, and adjust it to the
ampul quite precisely in order that it will be all ready to
stop it when you will have put in the fruit. And when you will have
delicately picked with your hand the fruit without it
being corrupted & on a warm & dry day, return to the
well-closed room, where neither wind nor air may enter,
& put it gently & with dexterity in the bottle. Then
stop the bottle well with the stopper & lute it
& making the lute if it seems good with some quicklime &
oil, & such that no water may enter in. Then put your
bottles in a vat full of water, during the
summerEt lhiver pourceque la cave sin
a cellar, and in the winter put your bottles
into a basket furnished with some weights & lower
it to the bottom of a deep well. For in the winter
the water of the vat would be too cold if the cellar
is not quite warm, for one needs the water to be like river
water.
Molding
If you want to promptly mold something in half relief that
comes to hand, fold some paper in five or six doubles,
& place it on the medal & make sure the
paper is folded on the back of the medal so
that it is well secured. Next, take a stick, broad at one end
& pointed at the other, well softened, and rub well on the
paper, & with the point of the stick retrace
the lines & proceed until you recognize that your imprint is well
done. Then, at your convenience, slightly rub oil with a
paintbrushlemp on the
paper imprint and cast in tallow or
wax or sulfur, & the paper, without
burning, will render your portrait neat, which you will afterward be able to
mold in plaster or tripoli, and then in
lead & other metal.
Polished carton of little thickness & a little
moistened is proper. Then if you want, strengthen it with
paper glued on the back.
Small birdsOrtolans sing at night if they are left
in the serain, but they are better for fattening for
fine tables than for singing. Chaffinches are prone to becoming
blind, & their eyes become swollen at the beginning of
August. Goldfinches like lettuce seeds very
much, & often one catches them in gardens on seeded
lettuces with two lime-twigs. But because such regular
fare would be too expensive for them, they are ordinarily fed with
hemp seed. The passe solitaire is purged
with a spider, which one needs to give to it
once a week in order that no
gaillardisse comes to it. The calandra is purged with dry
mortar, composed of lime & sand to keep it from
gaillardise & fattening too much. Young small
birds are purged with the same dry mortar, by putting some
pieces in their cages. The cuckoo lays in the nest of
ortolans otherwise called verdaule.
This bird is very simple. In the past, I have given leave to two of them,
which after several days returned to their cage. For feeding
young goldfinches, one needs to pestlealmonds with pith a very little amount
of bread pith and lettuce seed or
hemp seed. If it is for linnet, some
rapeseed.
Curried steel and filesThe steel that farriers & iron
workers commonly use is not refined like that from
Germany or Biscay, which is reduced in hardness
p in the bath of molten iron, but
only in the iron bars which are transported in flat
ingots from the forges of Foix & elsewhere,
there is a harder & whiter & finer kind than the other, as it
comes from the mine. And the workers choose it
& use it like the other steel. And because that it comes from
common iron, they call it strong iron. But it is not as
excellent as purified steel like that from Germany &
Biscaye, which is sold in small beads. Some curry
steel, giving it a heating, then temper it &
water in a large quantity of water, then forge it.
& fine steel, which is brittle, breaks and crumbles, &
iron allows itself to be stretched. Thus they separate the
finest steel&, which with another heating they
reduce to a mass. The Germans make their files from
strong iron.One applies steel to tools
dess not on both sides, but underneath the part
where one sharpens & whets them. & in this part, they must be of
very soft iron.Levantines refine our
steel because their country does not provide them with any. And
they reheat it in a pot with bitumen, &c.
Counterproofing
Make some soap water & with this, rub & moisten the
intaglio piece that you want to counterproof, then lay white
paper on it & rub very vigorously across the top with a
tooth or the bottom of a glass & you will
transfer your printed piece. It is true that it will be in reverse, but
if you oil your paper with spike lavender&or turpentine oil, it will represent
from the left the right on the other side. Then follow
these lines with a paintbrush or a quill, then heat the
paper & the oil will go away & leave your
paper white. And if you want this not to be known, if by chance,
you borrowed the piece, moisten the paper, and the polishing that
the burnisher has made on the back, which shows what has been
done, will not be known. The soap water will turn the piece
yellow, but well-gummed water, which has the same effect, does
not do this. If you want to, for the same effect, make gummed
water, then mix some soap in it & do as is said.
Cutters of printing platesTo clean the copper plates, or to make worn ones
print better, boil them for four or five good hours
in a good lyequite spent in the wash water.
Then make your ink with some linseed
oil & not with walnut oil & press with the
rollers. The copper plates are sooner made than
wood blocks, but they are not so appropriate for
printing promptly. The wood ones are laborious but also will
sooner have printed twenty sheets than the other two. To
carve in wood, the secret is first to poach, that is to say to
lay the counterproof or drawn piece onto the wood block
& to make sure that the side with the traced line is stuck to the
wood. Once dry, you then gently rub with a moist
handkerchief the back of the paper which, by rubbing, will
become so delicate that almost only the line will remain, which, next,
one follows in cutting the surface. You could do this with historiated
glass & coat with noir d’escaille, to then scrape
& layer your colors on the uncovered area. To make ink for
copper plates
These rollers are good for promptly printing with cut cartons different kinds of pastes.
One can place the plates among the linen when the
lye is quite pure, or in a pot.
which is different from that of the printers, one needs
to boil walnut oil or, even better, linseed
oil for a long time. & having boiled for a long
time, you will put in garlic & bread
crusts to rid it of grease & leave again to boil thoroughly,
then finally you put in one part of lampblack that you
have previously ground on marble with oil.
And finally you will mix everything as long as & until
you see that the plate prints well. Which And when
you have spread the ink on it, wipe the plates well with
the surface of a piece of white paper. & do this
until the paper looks clean and then print. If you were
to wipe the plates with a linen cloth, it would
remove the ink. Linseed oil thickens while
boiling & becomes like a varnish & is in danger of
catching fire. Therefore, when you boil it, make sure it is in an
open space or in a place where the flame cannot cause
damage. Some burn tartar until it is black & grind it
with non-boiled linseed oil, or walnut
oil which others find to be better. This black is beautiful,
but the one of lamp smoke is blacker. When you want to print
fr, take with your fingertip of
the said black moderately thick, the whole plate having
first been cleaned in lye as said, then, rub it with the surface
of a piece of white paper until the
paper remains white & do not touch it with the
bare handbecause but with a piece
of paper applied on top. & having cleaned the
plate perfectly, mi rub again with a
piece of paper, fold the edges & sides. Next, take a
small even table & on this a piece of
felt, then a few sheets of paper &
finally the one you want to print on, which should be moistened between
two wet napkins. And on this sheet put your
plate then another piece of paper, &
finally anotherfelt. Then pass between the
rollers. And you can print a dozen pieces consecutively by
always charging the plate with ink & cleaning it as you
have done. But if you desist from printing, the rest of the ink will dry
in the grooves of the plate. Thus you will have to boil it
in lye or urine, as already said, to clean it. The
rollers must not be too loose.
The work done in AlgiersTake a colt of three or 4 years & feed it on
ryebarley & strawpig cut in the manner one feeds horses in
Spain, and water it with good fountain or river
water. I do not know if it would be good to water it
occasionally with water of sulfurous baths, & to sometimes
give it fenugreek or other hot foods, for the intention
of the worker is to it to use the heat of its
dung, & the climate here is cooler than that of
Algiers. Keep it in a warm & close place &
so that none of its dung & urine should be lost, of
which you will make a heap or two in order that while one cools, the
other will be at the appropriate heat to continue. Also take a large
glass mattras, as thick as you can, & one
finger thick if it can be done, & of the
capacity of one pitcher or earthen
jug. Around the feast of St. John, put into
it a dozen & a half chicken eggs, that is to say, the
yolk without the glair & the germ (see). Others
say lx yolks. And it will be with this dozen & a
half egg yolks put in half an ounce (others say for lx
eggshalf a lb) of female silkworm
seeds. And after having luted the
mattras well (I do not know if it is at all necessary for the
generation that there be air), put it & bury it in the heat of the dung up to
the neck, and leave it there until several fworms are engendered. And then remove the mattras
& do not bury it in the dung any longer, but only keep it
placed on the hot layer of the dung
until all the worms will have eaten & consumed one
d another, bustling & stirring, and only one
remains. When this is the case you need to feed it at regular
intervals, day & night, with the aid of two men, who by
intervals will take care of it, and you will feed it with an egg
yolk covered with a gold leaf, or with a liquid egg
yolk with the gold leaf incorporated; & take good care
that it does not want for such food (some say one egg yolk per
hour, others three, but the thing itself will demonstrate the
practice). Nourished in this way it will achieve its growth in two
months or seven weeks & will become like a
snake, one empan & 4
fingers long, & one lb in weight, and as
its wings begin to grow, one will need to put it to death by making
a ring of charcoal fire around the bottle one
empan distant from it, and then stopper &
lute the bottle well in order that it does not
exhale.
Or to be safer, retire from there until the fire has died down &
all is cooled, Ap for its exhalation would be
dangerous. And for the occasion when you
feed it with pincers,
b wash your mouth with good vinegar
& take some preservative & plug yourself up well. Once it is
dead, put it in a linen cloth or a canvas of silk &
fold it & hang it from the ceiling, where the air
or & sun dry it. Once it is quite dry,
pulverize it in a mortar. And keep this powder carefully,
because one ℥ of this thrown on iii lb of molten
♁ reduces it to finer ☉ than the other one. But it does not
have as much weight. For this work you also
need to choose the oldest ♁ that you can, which has often been
melted & finely hammered into sheets or other works, & purify it
before by melting & throwing it into honey &
vinegar. The term of the work is nine monthsfrom
the feast of St. John until the 25th of April.
LinseedWhoever wants to have it beautiful & p very
delicate needs to pick it before the fd
seed is perfectly ripe. For if one waits for the seed to be
perfectly ripe, the foot is so dried by the sun that it is brittle &
breakable. It is true that in this way the seed is reduced by a
third.
Colors
If you want to keep them beautiful in gum and such that they
do not lose any of their true color, put white wine, the
whitest and clearest you can, in a bottle with a little
tragacanth gum. And having stoppered the
bottle, scramble & shake it very strongly together, &
let it rest until the tragacanth is dissolved. Also put in a
little fine-grained white salt to brighten the whole.
Some mix clear water with white wine, and with this
mixture they temper the colors without grinding. And these show very
beautifully in illumination work.
Soldering a viseIt is good that the jaws of the vise should be high to make
a long piece in it, and that the jaws join well to clamp a delicate
object. To solder the nut, after you have forged the
bolt, you will make will forge a long iron
stripquar of such thickness that it can fit
into the notch of the bolt when red hot, & you will bend it
po all around, striking it with a hammer.
Once it is well jo wrapped around, you will insert
it the bolto around which
is it is wrapped.
CopperIf, in the fire & melt, it touches the iron, this
iron will be so brittle afterward that it cannot be
forged.
Casting of leadOne mixes it, according to some, halftin &
halflead, and to l'eschheat it,
one mixes in a little sublimate. It casts well in small works in
a cuttlefish bone, provided it is good.
Molding with paperBoil over hot ashes some cotton in
aquafortis mixed with sal ammoniac, like
aqua regia, and the cotton will become very fine,
like powder. Temper it next it with gummed water & you will mold
very delicately.
Almond trees, apricotsThey come in quite straight if one grafts them. And all trees with
pitted fruit, like pavis,
mericotons, alberges,
vieapricots &c, come in best
shield grafted on an almond tree.
Casting of lead and copperLead & tin come out well in white chalk but
the softer it is the better. The one from Champaigne fetches
the price that is set in Lyon. Burnt & calcined
horse bones mold very neatly.
I believe that the marrow from the horns of oxen or
sheep, that is to say, the spongy bone from the
inside, molds very neatly and is better than bone.
Note that any brittle metal comes out better than the fatty. Also,
lean sand receives & drinks it better than the
dense one.
SilkwormsThey are produced from seed, that is to say eggs, that which is sold
by the ounce, which is commonly sold in Languedoc iii
lb v s. The one from Spain that
merchants bring there is considered the best because the
worms which come from there are not so subject to illnesses
& make more silk. In Spain, from one ounce of
silk seed, worms are produced from it which
commonly yield ord xv lb of silk.
But the ounce from one ounce of seed
produced in France, only x or xii come out of it. Three
ounces of seed are for producing such a quantity of
worms, that with them you will be able to furnish a room
accomodated with three or 4 levels of large shelves. Willingly
they begin to molt around Holy Week. And to do
this, one puts them in a fir box, like those where one
puts sweetmeats, warmly among feather cushions. And at the
beginning, they molt like f little
black ants, & as soon as there are two or three molted,
one needs to give them white mulberry leaves, and then
arrange them on the shelves. And three times per
day, one needs to exchange fresh leaves. And if
during the day there is some thunder or rainy
weather, cloud-covered & cool, one needs to keep in the
room three or 4 chafing dishes & with
glowing charcoal, & put in incense until all the
room would be filled with smoke. And when the
weather is warm & serain, the silk abounds
more & is all the better for it. Some worms make it whiter,
others more yellowish. And even if it may be white, it yellows when one
draws it with hot waterdespuys.
The worms, from their birth until u the their
time when they make their cocoons & their prisons, sleep &
rest 4 times, & each time remain 4 or five days
resting without eating, as if they were dying to be reborn again,
for each time they change skin & begin by molting from the head then
consequently, on different days, the s
rest of the body, & from white turn grayish, & from grayish to
white en fin. And if one of them has some illness
who does not have the strength to molt, one needs to help it &
be careful not to break it, for at that time rendering a yellow liquor, it is
no longer worth anything. And further they scarcely profit after one has
handled it with the hand. Around Pentecost,
they begin to want to climb on the dry branches of heath or
heather that one prepares for them en &
attaches
See Hieronymus
Vida Albensisepiscopus,de bCremonensis,
scripsit carmine
de bombicum natura.
How one moves them
on some of the high shelves, & at that time, one knows
when they want to climb up when, on the leaf, they
hau lengthen & raise the head & a part of
the body. At that time one carries them to the heath branches
where they stop & begin to spin their prison, which one calls
cocoon, commonly the size of a pigeon egg, although
one finds much larger ones because it sometimes happens that two or
three & up to xi worms are put in a cocoon, which is hairy
& downy all around &, the hair of which is
ferret-silk or floret; & from the
cocoon, which is a white, solid, continuous & firm skin, silk
is made. The cocoon is so hard that one only cuts it with difficulty
with a fingernail. And nevertheless, to leave its
prison, elle the worm gnaws it at one end,
& after having stayed inside living on its own sap
il for three weeks, it comes
out, diminished by half. For when it begins to spin, it is
as long as a ring finger & has eight feet, &
coming out it is shorter by half & only has 4 feet. On the
other hand, it has become a butterfly & has wings, without, however,
flying. And there are male & female. As soon as they come
out of the cocoon, the male charges the female & one puts them on a
white linen, where they make their eggs, which the female would not
make well & profitably if the male was not given to her. And when the
male has detached himself from a female, one needs to throw it out, for it
would not be good to give it to another. They have completed spinning
& making their eggs in three weeks &
around St. John’s Day. And at that time one keeps
their eggs & seed until Holy Week, as
on is said. Some spin among the leaves & make
their cocoon there without climbing high.
The silk of the cocoons where there are
On dry preservesTo dry preserves take a which are not liquid, take an
open tub pierced on both sides with a small, square window,
& pass sticks through these on one side and the other,
& place on these a sieve made of strings in the form of a
net. And on this, you will properly arrange the vessels with your
preserves. And having put at the bottom of the tub a
chafing-dish or two, cover the tub with a
bedsheet folded double.
For making a horse follow
+One needs to give it sweet bread & it
will know the one who will do him such good.And for maintaining it in a good disposition for walking along,
put it, make it take a good gait from the start of the way
& continue it.
DogsFor keeping them from biting, it is good to have little resin
balls prepared like those of shoemakers & to throw to
them as they yap at you, & they will bite on the balls so
much that their teeth will be stuck together & they will not be able
to hurt you.
For disguising a horseCut its ears & tail, & with lit hay, singe
the hair on its head & elsewhere.
Boots of hayFor lack of boots, you can make rope of hay & wrap your
legs in it, & the rain will never pass
through.
For firing a schioppo senza rumoreWarm the pipe well & plug the touch-hole below, & take a piece of porkfat, the freshest
that you can, as long as the joint of the little
finger & of the caliber, & put it in the pipe &
move it up and down until it is completely melted. Next, load the pipe
at the top with a socket that is
held on the ramrod, as you know, & it will only make a
little whistle.
For tempering a ball that will pierce and will make healing
difficultMix fat & strong vinegar & throw your ball
very hot into this mixture.
Against woundsCut a chicken or a dog to test & in the wound
put sap & pestled herb which is called
semperviva, that is the small one
which has leaves like small grains, which some call
vermicularis. And one holds for certain that it
will not die.
Onenev elbirrohcihw sllik fi
eno spets no a draob ro a ueirse purritsTake in the month of June & July, a number
of the largest snails you can, with their shell, put them in a
glass bottle with a sufficient quantity of very hard
& thoroughly boiled egg yolks with good vinegar.
Stopper the whole well & put it under horsedung for
the space of fifteen days. The snails will
first live on the egg yolks, then with the heat they will come
out of their shells & eat & live on those. Finally, a white
ointment is made with it, which, without cutting open the bottleyou put, which above all for your safety you
b will always keep well stoppered, you will put
in the very strong sun & in the serain for the
space
of fifteen days. Next you will
break it from quite far away & with a long stick without
looking at it & having plugged yourself up well, you will put some of it where you
want, or rub some of it on a stake in a running river or a tree or
a plant that is on the bank.
Another for watersDaot ni a top with
quicklime, which will consume all this powder afterward, &c.
Damascus steelDistil earthworms separately &
horseradish leaf separately, & mix these two
waters, as much of one as of the other, & temper in
this.
For knowing the course one takes on the open seaSoak a ferlin in oil, then attach it to the
stern of the ship such that it dips in the water,
& it will make a trail that will show for ten leagues
because the water is parted wherever the oil
has passed.
For casting
Chalk most recently taken from the quarry is good
for lead. One ought neither to wet nor grind it, but render it subtle by
pestling or scraping & passing through a sieve. Thus for pumice,
which one ought not to grind with water, nor corrupt its nature.
Lead should be but little mixed with tin,
only for giving it strength, and two partsof tin forlead for of one of
tin or more.
Excellent tempering bath for cuirass bodies
Take river water, as clear & running as
possible, & heat it to a little more than tepid. Then take a bunch
of weld, & take the grain of it & put it into
the said water & boil it thoroughly, stirring it with a stick, then pour it into a
muid or other vessel, then throw into it two
pecks of salt. Next, take a big cauldron of the said
river water & heat it to a litte more than
tepid. & take three or four double handfuls of
fatty red earth, soak it & throw it into the cauldron
with the said water. Take as much pigeon dung
as the said earth, & as much horse
dung, & as much iron filings, & mix the
whole separately, & throw it into the cauldron & leave
it for two or three days. Then throw it afterward
into the said muid and stir the whole thoroughly together. And
the older this temper is, the better it will be.
Varnish for distemperYou can make marble with distemper of lake or
rose of Ghent & chalk. Once dry, glaze with
lake tempered in wine, for the glue makes it die &
blacken. And all will appear red, but the varnish you will
put here, which will penetrate, will make appear dark & light
that which ought to be thus. The varnish is made thus, mix with clear
Venice turpentine some spike lavender oil& until all is clear & liquid enough, & it is done
without fire. This one es is for things in
distemper, and the turpentine varnish that you know, for
panels. Pure spike lavender oil varnish is not good for
panels, for spike lavender oil is too penetrating &
makes colors sparkle, unless it was made long ago.
Painter
The lake & floreyrosette of
Ghent & others lose their color & die in the
air.All marble on which a knife can prick is
worth nothing for grinding fine colors.Chalk has no body in oil. Ceruse is
appropriate. But lead white more excellent. Ceruse is the
whitest, when ground first in water, the lead white
grayish. But the white it takes on its perfect whiteness in
oil.When you grind your colors, first clean your workshop
well, for when walking, if you stir up dust, this will damage your
colors, which will never be beautiful if they are not very
be clean.Florey must not be mixed with azur d’esmail
or another, for it makes it green.For palettes to paint, ivory is excellent, knots
of the fir tree, the pear tree, & if it
is a walnut tree, make sure the grain of the wood
runs lengthwise.L One always needs to apply imprimatura
donwood to paint there in oil in
order to fill the holes & unevenness, and make imprimatura with some stil de
grain yellow & ceruse tempered in oil, then soften
with a feather, which flattens better than a
paintbrush. Or when the imprimatura is dry, scrape strongly
with a knife.To use azur d’esmail in oil, one needs to
choose the most delicate. And to render it subtle, one ought not to grind it,
for this makes it whiten. But one needs to wash it, & the coarsest
going to the bottom, choose the one that is above in the
water or, by inclination, pour out the cloudy water, then
gather the azure.The one who makes a profession of working in
oil will hardly work well in distemper if he has not
been trained well from adolescence. For the way of working is different,
because when washing the paintbrush for distemper,
one always leaves it moist. And on the contrary, when one cleans the
paintbrush in oil to soften, one wipes the
paintbrush well. Otherwise, the work would run &
would soon be all disfigured.
The Italians soften by hatching with a large flattened
paintbrush which makes serrations.
And they do not lay their shadow all at once like the Flemish,
but make them hatching lightest toward the light then a little darker
next & finally a little blacker to better make project & come
out.
In distemper do not mix your different colors together
But for this makes them die, but use each separately. And in
order that they do not dry & that you have time to soften, moisten
the back of the canvas.
Lake takes long to dry in oil and for that reason one must
grind some glass with it. But one needs to choose cristallin
because it is cleaner. And because it would be too difficult to grind by
itself, one must redden it on the fire, then when entirely red throw it
into cold water, & it will crumble & pulverize
easily for grinding it afterward. Being well ground it with a lot of
water, it resembles ground lead white, but for all this it has
no body. I think it would be good for casting.Lead white is made with plate lead, beaten thin & put
under the dung heap.White varnish of turpentine or of spike lavender
oil and turpentine is colored with pulverized
terra emerita, making it boil together. It gives a gold
color on silver and more beautiful if it is burnished. It is dry
in a quarter of an hour. Aloe would make brighter
color still, but it takes long to dry & the other is dry in a quarter
of an hour, in winter as well as
summer.
Good lake moistened with saliva is promptly rendered dark.
That from Florence is too gummed.
If you make a layer of printers’ ink on velvet
and there apply gold leaf and then stretch the velvet, it
will appear grainy as if there were gold powder disseminated on
it.Vermilion ground by itself is wan and pale, but ground after
lake, it is more beautiful.For ridding marbles of grease, one grinds
common ashes on it, which is good afterward to make the first
imprimatura of a panel that is prepared in oil in order to seal
the cracks & chinks of the wood. It has more body than
chalk & it has chalk a certain fattiness.
One mixes it with the said chalk or ra
with the colors collected from the vessel where one cleans the
paintbrush. It is desiccative and spares the color.
On Once this first imprimatura is made on the wood, one
scrapes with a knife to even it. Next, one makes there a second imprimatura
of ceruse or of the meanest colors mixed together. In
a painting in oilon canvas, one applies only
one imprimatura, and the same ashes can be used there. Also, after one
has ground a color, one grinds some pith of coarse bread on it to
rid the marble of grease.
Sheath makerSheath makers use small, very delicate skins of
lambs and young goats, almost like
parchment and keep them constantly re-moistened in humid
places. When they want to imprint some history, they layer them in
the hollows of their figure, then put over the top fine fatty
earth with which cloths are rid of grease, having pressed & beaten
it well & rendered it moderately humid and soft. Then they put on
the earth a small even board and put the whole in a
press and let it dry there. After the
earth, only the leather remains neatly imprinted of
the size of a pea. And then you give the
leather two or three layers of copperas black and
iron scale, one after the other, as even as the
tanners do. And this dye, being astringent, makes the
leather shrink & strengthens it and makes it imprint better.
Once dry, one gluescanvas on the back with strong glue.
In this manner one can promptly imitate big statues &
very subtle medals and paint &
decorate them & are light and portable
& last a long time. That which is imprinted on a relief
is done differently and can be retraced with a hot
iron.
PainterGood crayons are not made with goodglue but with women’s milk.Images made of carton, once dry, have to be soaked
in thoroughly thinned and clear melted resin. This strengthens
it, otherwise they turn limp in wet weather.Venice masks are made with the
hollow & the male face of
copper.The Flemish do not use any whites for flesh colors in
oil other than lead white because the ceruse turns
yellow.4 or 5 year-old walnut oil which is clear
is the best color, it keeps off dust. The kind which has recently been
drawn with the press in the manner of almond oil is
white, especially if the walnuts’ skin is removed.
One needs to make at least three layers of flesh color to accomplish
faces in oil. And at the beginning, one puts the black and umber
where it is appropriate. Next, the heightening with lead
white must not be put on the black. Flesh colors, and where the
ceruse enters will yellow in five or six months, but
lead white does not change.Florence lake is better than that from
Flanders for in Florence the best dyes are made. To
make a beautiful flesh color, the reddest & liveliest lake is
the best, for the kind that contains purple &
violet, by admixture of too much alum, makes flesh color like
that of one who is very cold. That is why ladies, wanting to color their
cheeks, grind Florence lake very finely, then
fill a little cotton with it, which they next
wrap in a little fabric of Cambray which is
clear. And thus they pounce the lake on their cheeks
& then, with another clean cotton, they
soften it.Cristallin having been ground with water
appears to be have body, but with oil it does not have
any. It is ground with lake & with asphaltum, which
would not dry for a very long time without this.Spike lavender oil is commonly put with lead
white, d not entirely pure but mixed with a
little walnut oil. The said spike lavender
oil would not be good for lake & colors that do not have
body for it would make them glitter, but with those that have
body & are somewhat fatty, it is quite appropriate.Verdigris and orpiment must first be ground with
urine before thinning them with oil. Thus they are
beautiful & do not die.
Blacks
Black of charcoal from the mines, of ordinary
charcoal, of burnt ivory, of peach pits, of
lamp smoke, of burnt bones of the feet of
oxen.
Shadows
When you are making a painting with several persons, just as the
flesh colors have to be different, so do the shadows.
In fresco
Azure is not good here, but wan, & one needs to work
with long paintbrushes. Fresco is not used
cont on wood.
AzureTurpentine oil renders it very beautiful. Test palma
christi seed oil.
Walnut oil in Flanders costs at least a hundred
sous a pint. The azure requires a little
fatty oil because it has no body.Azur d’esmail hates more than any other to be ground,
especially with water, for it dies & loses all its color.
However, because it cannot be worked if it is coarse, grind not with
water but with oil & grind it thickly, and in this
way it will not die as much.
Always choose the most delicate one.
PaintbrushesWhen the color has dried inside, & you want to clean them, soak
them in spike lavender oil and they immediately will
turn soft again as before, then you will finish to clean them in
walnut oil. Walnut oil is not as
not as appropriate to soften them as that of spike
lavender, which is clear like water & penetrates
& does not have body like walnut oil. The handle
of paintbrushes is made by those who work with
care from porcupine quills,
by others from wood of arrows from Turkeywith whom with which they also make small rods to rest
their hand when they are painting.
To work well on a small scale very thin paintbrushes which
have a firm point areon needed. And because a
squirrel’s tail hair is soft,
the most careful take the bristles of the oldest rats,
especially of dormice if they can find them, & put two or
three of them in the middle of the paintbrush. These make
a straight line like a quill & all the other
hairs of the paintbrush stick to them as to the
point. The bristles of beech martens & weasels
& small animals that make musk are even better, for a
single hair in a paintbrush suffices.
Lake & lead white & ceruse are easy to
work in oil, but every kind of azure is difficult. And to
make beautiful azure, one needs to layer it not with large
strokes of the paintbrush but with small strokes of the
point. Not only ash &
azur d’Acre but mainly azur d’esmail
which one needs to choose to be very delicate, for it
otherwise you will not v be able to work with it
except with much work, and even then you need to allay it with
turpentine to give it body, and mix it with a little lead
white. Any azure wants neither to be ground nor washed for it
loses color & becomes pale. But putting it powdered on your
palette, you will thin it little by little either with
walnut oil or turpentine oil,
dipping a knife point in the oil, then
tempering it little by little on the said
palette.
Shadows
The first shadows which are closer to light need to be clear &
thoroughly softened & then the last ones very dark to give relief
well. The Italians commonly make three shadows, the first one,
of light, very clear, the second one darker & the third ones quite
strong, then blend these three shadows together by hatching them from
the darkest to the clearest.
The varnish is more beautiful on the panel when the color has
imbibed well.
AzureAzure is more beautiful when imbibed on the panel
without with walnut oil with which it has
been first thinned, without putting in spike lavender
oil. And if you want to know if it is dry, breathe on it and it will
not shine, thus appearing to be well-imbibed. If not, it will shine.Azur d’esmailimbibed in oil tempered
in oil, leaves it & returns to its primary nature if you mix it
in water.Colors for working in miniature want to be thoroughly ground, &
work them with a point of a paintbrush if you want your
work to be well-softened.
Black Painting of armor
Charcoal black mixed with a little lead white is very
appropriate to make armor, mixing in a little of azure if you wish. Charcoal black by itself is
as if bluish.
Painting of crêpeFirst one needs to make the background greyish with charcoal
black mixed with lead white & a little azure.
Then, resu after it is dry, heighten with strokes
& lines in lead white.
Folds in clothing
In this, one needs to take care that none are made false, but that
only that which the natural can do is imitated. A thick cloth
hardly makes any folds, taffetas & silk cloth make
more, & crêpe more still. Make Heed which ones
should go lengthwise & others across.
Desiccative
Lead white & massicot are the most desiccative,
nevertheless they need a good two days. If you want
to prove whether an oil is desiccative, temper lead white
with it, & if it produces a crust in a
day soon it means that it will dessicate.
Double layers
Azures, flesh colors, & reds are layered twice. The others
not.
Mending the cracks in a panel
If a painted panel breaks you can glue it well on the
reverse, but to fill in the cracks well in order to paint on it &
repair it, it ought not to be with glue, which rots in damp
weather & would swell when touched with the oil of the
painting. But take white wax, which is harder than the other.
The oil mixed in among the wax prevents it from
melting in the sun. The wax ought not to be hard, but
soft as if recently cooled. Apply it on cracks & crevices with the
tip of a knife, then scrape;
and to prevent it from breaking, mix in little oil &
melt them together & fill the cracks & make them even and paint
on them. And the oil mixed with wax will
q better receive color, which is also
tempered with oil.
First whitening of a panel
One layers two or three times with chalk tempered with
distemper glue on the panel, not with a
paintbrush but with a brush in such a
way as if you wanted to pounce, & leave to dry. And reiterate up to
two or three times, then even out the last ground well with a
knife, then give a coat of glue on top, upon
which you will next be able to make your imprimatura and then paint. But
make sure that your first white is not too thick for it would break
easily. Flemishpainters have such panels
made by the dozen.
Neat work
When you are working, make sure not to stir up dust, & when you
leave your work, cover it in order that the said dust will not fall upon it.
Also layer your colors as thinly as you can, for if they are thick you
will be not be able to soften them thoroughly.
Also do not layer color on color if they are not similar, such as white
on black, but rather flesh color on flesh color, & thus with the
others. And leave blank the space for shadow or a different color.
Ains In this way, layering each manner of color
on the imprimatura itself, they will not die & you will work
neatly.
OilWalnut oil extracted like peeled
almonds is very white. The one of palma
christi. And when the oil has a little body, the
colors soften in it. For if the oil is too clear, the colors run &
do not have bond, even those that hardly have any body. Fatty
oil that is not easily imbibed is appropriate for varnish.
The oil is desiccative enough when it dries out as quickly as
common varnish. Oils do not dry as quickly in cold
countries as in hot countries. Oilexposed to the sun
is clarified well. But it fattens, if you put in ceruse or
lead filings or lead white or calcined pulverized
pglass. To avoid this, put the vial in
clear water.Colors in oil, once dry, sometimes do not easily receive the
second colors; to prevent this, breathe on them & the color will
take there.
Varnish dry in an hourTake white turpentine oil&turpentine & mastic, pulverized & passed delicately
through a sieve, & boil together, stirring
continuously with a stick until it is dry. And put in two
liards' worth of good eau-de-vie. And if you extract
the tear of mastic, it will be whiter & clearer. There is no
need to put in turpentine, but only its white turpentine
oil & mastic pulverized at your discretion, until it has
enough body. +
+
which one knows when, being placed on a knifein the
wind, it does not run. This one is excellent for panels and is dry
within an hour and does not stick like the
turpentine one.
Cleaning panels
Some clean them with soapy water, others with urine,
others with white wine, for dust spoils the colors.
Spike lavender oil
One ought not to put any into colors for it is so brisk and
penetrating that it makes the colors flake, which next come off. And for
this reason, painters use it to clean their oil
paintbrush when they have become hard, for it renders them
soft & clean immediately, penetrating the dry color which encrusts
them. Also, painters, sometimes envious of the work
undertaken by another, in the evening secretly pour a few
drops of spike lavenderon the oil on the top
edge of the panel such that, running down, it makes a stain that
penetrates as far as the wood & makes the colors come off such
that, to make the work even & of an equal composition, they are
forced to do everything again and thus lose their work.
Wood color
One gives a layer of bistre, then a coat of
varnish.
Work of the FlemishThey do all their works in oil with the tip of the
paintbrushes, in f the fashion of good
illuminators, and grind their colors very finely, protect
against dust, and often clean from their paintbrush the
bits of hair which they sometimes leave there, for if these
should remain on the work it this, it would prevent neat
working, which they are very careful about. In this way their work
appears very soft, especially in small work, in which one needs to apply
more diligence because one looks at them more closely. They
usually finish the forehead, then the eyes, next the nose,
finally the mouth and the rest. But they do not proceed like some others
who fo layer two or three different flesh colors, one
yellowish & the other darker, because the colors always mix &
finally die. They simply make their imprimatura
properly,
and even it well, then and once quite dry, they draw their
portrait & layer their natural flesh color, leaving the space for
shadow, like the side of the forehead & the cheek, & the area
around the eyes blank & dry until they have filled in the rest. Next
they put their shadows separately, which they do not make so dark, but rather
that which the natural can make. In sum, they do not put shadow on flesh
color nor flesh color on shadow, but white on white & black on black
Thus & each on their own. In this way their work is neat
& the colors do not die.
Flesh colors
You need to make two kinds of it, one more red to make the main
layer, the other more pale for the highlights, as around the eyes. And
then on this last flesh color, you will lightly touch the principal lights
with a little lead white. But avoid putting too much of it for
this will make it look like a face of death. The beautiful
Florence lake makes a beautiful re vivid flesh color
approaching the tint of rose
alexandrine & incarnadine.
Certain colors do not want to be ground, like minium and
massicot. The ashes do not want to be ground at all.
Rounding
If you want to model relief well, arr soften round
things by rounding them with the point of the paintbrush
& the rest with the flat part if it is flat, & thus for the
others according to their nature, & lightly with the point of
the dry & flattened paintbrush& with
patience.
Lead whiteWithout this, you cannot work on a small scale, for which one needs
to soften with great care. But you cannot do it with ceruse
because it does not have enough body.
Lights
Your paintbrush shows it to you by casting a shadow
which must always follow the back of your hand, not in a
straight line like this,
for the light would be too crude & too harsh, but obliquely & as
if at an incline, thus:
It is necessary that the panel not be facing the
light head-on, but half turned
against it. And above all look for soft light, for it makes soft both
the shadow & the work, as a harsh light a harsh
work.
Water to give light for the painterDistill some vine water & put
it into a big bottle. And behind this, put your
candle, & it will not hinder your vision.
Frames of the GermansGermans who work in miniature make frames not of
glass, but of canvas anointed with clear turpentine
varnish, namely halfturpentine oil & almost
halfturpentine, because this light, which is not as bright
as from glass, makes features appear larger to them. And when they want
to make something subtle like veins de & similar
things, they use paintbrushes composed of two or three
rat whiskers.
Azur d’esmail in oilOne needs to choose the most beautiful delicate that
will be possible, for if it is coarse one cannot work with it in
oil. And if you do not find any that is subtle enough, you can
grind it well, not with water but with oil, & grind it
thickly. Next lay it on your palette & mix in a little
turpentine, but hardly any, to give it bond, and make it so that it is
thick like butter or mortar, & then, with a fairly
large paintbrush, work it by always moving the
paintbrush back and forth. Then, to soften it, hatch
across it in a tooth-like jagging with the the tip of the
paintbrush. The highlights will be made with
d the same thinned with ceruse,
which, giving it bond, makes it easier to work. I have seen it used
thus. It must be very thick, & almost such that you are at pains to
spread it with the paintbrush. And it is all the better
if you lay down your panel. All these difficulties do not arise when it
is very subtle & thin without being ground, and does not run.Azure wants to be layered neatly, which is why
quan it always dies somewhat when, to mend an old panel,
one layers it on old, already tarnished azure. In such
matters, it is better to scrape off the old layer & apply imprimatura again,
then put down the azure. It is almost thus for other colors.
Also, azure ground with oil always remains shiny, which is
not a good sign for azure, for this makes it die.
Grinding colors
A slab of marble & pglassa
glassthumb thick is more appropriate
than anything else for grinding colors neatly, especially for
lake & for whites.
Perspectives
Perspectives in oiltake a long time because of
several lines that need to be done with a ruler, and for this
reason one usually does them in distemper. One takes the points
at one’s discretion. The main thing in this lies in having the knowledge
of the point. One commonly makes two or three of them, sometimes
five.
OcherIt is put for faces, hair, skulls, and rocks.
Distant people and animals
One first does them roughly in gray or in purple, which is made of
azure ash & lake. Once dry, one
heightens & finishes with flesh color & other colors & with
white. And it looks better & is sooner done than with white & with
black. Armies are painted thus.
Drawing
After you have applied imprimatura to your panel & scraped with a knife
to render it quite even, you will start drawing with the longest piece
of charcoal you can find, for with a short one you would
not see your line so well & would do it roughly. Let the tip of
the charcoal be thin, & in order not to render it
dull & blunt soon, drag the tip flat, thus you will constantly
sharpen it. Also, hold your charcoal as far at the end
as you can, & do it & accustom yourself
af to make a light line. For if you accustom yourself
to drawing delicately with charcoal, you will do
likewise with colors. And he who is rough
with charcoal is never exquisit with colors. And by a
line of charcoal, masters pass judgement on their
apprentices. First make the outline of your drawing, that is
the contour, lightly & without any too careful work, but boldly. In
so doing, you will teach yourself to be an artist, and if you
need to undo anything, you will not waste as much time as if you had
elaborated it. Next, re-work all the distinctive lines, & do not keep
too close to your panel, but occasionally step away from it to better
judge the proportions. Once the first drawing seems good to you, retrace
all the lines with the paintbrush in rose color or
another color in gum or distemper. Thus you will work more
confidently with colors, and with less effort.
Drawing
To become an artist, one needs to draw by
eye, without compass or ruler.
Masters do not allow apprentices to do this.When the imprimatura has been long done, it becomes greasy.
One needs to rub it with ash & water.
Perspective
To know the point, one needs to lay down a ruler over the
lines, & at the intersection of these, the point will
be. Some make a hole at the end of their
rulers to fix the point by that hole & move the
ruler about. Others lay down a ruler across the panel,
then on this laid-down ruler they set the tip of another
ruler, which, attached to the former by means of a screw,
moves about & reaches as far as necessary without losing the point.
The ruler and compass without the judgement of the
eye cause errors. Perspective is very difficult.
To paint perspective in oil, you ought not to use a
ruler, for you would smudge everything. But when layering your
colors you need to keep to the & follow the lines of your
first drawing.Also, to make plumb lines, which go from the top
to makevif to the bottom of the panel,
you need to have a thread with some piece of lead
attached to one end & a little hook to the other for
hanging the said thread from the top of the panel.
Panel
To draw & to layer the colors, especially in oil, it is necessary that you
hold your panel as upright as you can on the easel, for if
it is slanted there is a danger that some dust & dirt might stick on
it. Keep clean & without dust the place where you paint.
Amaranth color
Although it is said to be immortal, it is nonetheless the case that
white wine removes its tint & turns claret-colored, on & the dry flower ends up white afterward. Note that in this way the
wine, & I have p tested it. Eau-de-vie does as much.
Drying of oilIf the oil does not dry out, put in massicot &
minium. There is no better oil than that of walnut, for
it dries out neither too soon nor too late.
Casting
The Germans use lead from Flanders because
it is very soft. And to cast better they take lead ore & melt
it, & separate what is melted from the filth &
ore, & pour it into a separate vessel, then the
bottom they make their cast with it. For the lead must not have been
put to work before, but rather completely new. Some cast into molds
of iron & copper.
or new lead coming from the mine. They melt it twice
in a crucible. In the first one, they purge it of
filth. In the second, they en make the cast.
Shadows
Germanpainters make their shadows on flesh
color of men with ground jet, stil de grain yellow
& ocher.
BistreIt is only used in distemper, & with this wood color is
made.
Verdigris and another very beautiful bright green
One ought not to grind it with water alone, for that makes it
die. To render it beautiful in distemper, some grind it with
vinegar, but that makes it turn pale & become whitish. To
render it beautiful, grind it with urine & leave to dry.
Then, whenever you like, grind it with oil. And after you have
collected it with the spatula, before finishing to clean the
marble, grind stil de grain yellow on it. And you
will have a very beautiful green.
Velvets and blacks
One needs needs to make theemiddle
main layer very d dark, & its folds & highlights
very bright with white, & on the edges ofu its light, you make a white
line. For blue & green velvets, you highlight
touch the shading with peach pit black, which is very
black. For lake, black of pit coal which
makes a reddish black on lake for velvets. The
common charcoal makes a whitish black.P
Armor
Soft wood charcoal makes a bluish color. It is good for making
armor.
Stil de grain yellowIs made with broom flower boiled well in
water, putting in enough alum, then ceruse.
RosetteSome with chalk, but the best has its body with ceruse
& brazilwood dye.
Flanders blue
In the month of May, one puts the cow
dung to putrefy under horse dung. Then one mixes
with florey.
Snow-covered landscapes
Only three colors are used for it: white, black &
bistre.
Softening
If you have worked & made your ground with some
desiccative color, such as minium & similar, finish softening
while the work is fresh, for if you were to wait until the next
day, it would be dry & you would not be able to finish it
neatly.
Working neatly
Never put down, if you can, two colors one on top of the other. But
next, having made your design carefully, keep the place of shadows for
them alone, & also separately that of lights & highlights,
without layering one color all over & then highlighting or else shading
on it. And in this way, you further your work, economize your colors
& work neatly. Which is the reason that, the colors not being
muddled nor mixed together, they do not die & you soften the colors
better, since they are not so thick.
Yellow ocher
One needs a little of it in every flesh color.
Fatty oilIt is not good for working with colors because it makes them thick,
& as difficult to work as azur d’esmail. Therefore use the
clearest walnut oil that you can, & the
freshest.
Softening
One softens in the same way on oiled paper as on wood. But
it is easier to soften on canvas, because the softening must be
rougher on it.
VermilionOne ought not to keep it in water when temperedground with oil for it loses its color. It is better
to choose whitish vermilion than dark & blackish. For
vermilion is commonly mixed with a little lake, without
which it would hardly be different from minium. But the pale
casts more vivacity than the dark. It is not desiccative, &
for this reason one mixes in calcined cristallin.
Eye
Every eye must follow the circle of the compass & not be
flat & square.
Oil colors in waterCommonly, after grinding them one puts a
fo piece of tin leaf on top, & one puts
them in water to prevent them from drying out. But this is more
appropriate for ceruse, lead white, minium, &
massicot than for the others, for lake dies there &
loses its color, also azure, vermilion.
Double layer
Verdigris does not die, & thus does not need
to be layered twice. But lake & others, & principally
flesh colors, the require two layers. Colors hardly change
when they are dry.
Apprenticeship of the painterFirst, one gives him an egg to do in which one has him make
half a face, then a whole one with the ears, next the neck, then the
parts of the body separately, next joined, then one figure, then two
& three, finally a history, teaching him how to hold the
charcoal by the end, & also the paintbrush.
Once he knows how to draw, one teaches him how to p layer colors.One also presents him with these strokes & lines.CThe figure of the egg is the
main pattern for faces and for bent bodies, & the cross as the cross is
the model for a straight & whole figure.
Without these strokes you will never do well.
Softening
To soften well, one ought not to layer the colors thickly, but
rather layer them twice, if it is not azur d’esmail.
All colors that have no body in oil have none in
distemper, and but in distemper they sink to
the bottom. Distemper colors want to be fatty, which is
recognized when they take hold on the palette once tempered in
oil.
Straight lines
You can use the ruler, but do not lay it flat on the panel,
but as if lifted off, & resting on the edges of the panel. Otherwise
you would smudge everything, & also you would not see the stroke
well.
DistemperDistemper colors need to be kept darker
pr while you temper them, because they whiten
while drying. But oil colors remain the same color.
Shadows
Because blacks make different colors, some a reddish black, others
tending toward blue, and others toward green, choose those which tend
toward yellow to make beautiful shadows in oil, for the shadow,
especially that of men, is yellowish. And for this effect use very
strongly ground jet, which you will mix with a little
yellow ocher & lead white. Or else, after
you have ground your lead whitebro and
clean p gathered it with the , grind the jet into it. Thus it will be more
desiccative, & making on its own a yellowish black. A little white
mixed in renders it perfect for men’s shadows. Blacks which make a
greenish black are appropriate for women’s shadows. Take, then, some
black of , a little sap-green & bistre, &
you will have a perfect shadow for women in distemper.
The powder of orberé grain is darker than
umber & when you lack umber, the said powder will do,
but it does not have body.
Flesh color
You must know well the mixing of colors & the appropriate
shadows, but above all make sure to soften them well. And note &
observe that a thing which appears flat needs to be softened lengthwise,
as if going from lettre a ga right to
left like
, and whatever ought to appear round must be softened in circles.
MirrorWhen you make flesh colors, it is good to have a
cristallin mirror, which represents
nature well, and in which it you will see if your
shadows are soft enough or too crude. But do not look at it with a
candle, for firelight will make the shadows reddish.
The painter also teaches himself with the mirror,
for he sees in it what nature can do.
Fatty colors
If some part remains shiny and does not seem dry after the layered
colors have penetrated, it means that this place is fatty, & that
the second colors one layers on would not take easily, unless
you rub this place with soap or breathe on it, because the
humidity will make the colors take.
One cannot layer oil on cut paper & model as in
distemper because the color would run. Thus, to gild with
or mat, one needs to pounce & then layer the gold
color with the paintbrush.
All fatty colors, such as ceruse and minium,
massicot, ocher, lead white, are good for making
gold color.
Every color or thing that becomes dense when water is put in during the
grinding has body. But those which do not have it, such as
pestled glass, lake, &c, become clear.
Semi-lively colors
When colors aabsorb into the canvas, it
means that it has been given imprimatura only once, & for this reason they
become matte rather than being shiny. But this is the best,
as long as you re-coat it twice, for in this manner, the colors, having
more body, do not die & are all the more beautiful for it,
especially azure, lake, & those do not have body. But
those who want to rush their painting apply imprimatura twice on the first go, to be
done with it. Thus the colors do not absorb, also they will not last as
long. The second layer of these does not absorb & remains
shiny.
From nature
There are some who paint from nature on oiled paper, &
if they do not finish in one go, they put their paper &
unfinished picture in water so that it shall not dry.Illuminators painting on paper temper their colors
with gum & mix in a little soap to make them run
better.Painters must all learn how to depict after nature, for to them
it is travel provisions & revenue & sure means of earning their
passage when travelling across the lands with only their
cocon.
Painting large figures
You need to put your charcoal at the tip of a stick
such that you make your first drawing from a distance because up close,
you would not be able to judge proportions as well as from a certain
& sufficient distance. Also, you when you paint up close, hold your
charcoal at the farthest end, & de practically with your
fingertips. For in this way you will acquire an
artist’s l stroke & will render your hand
nimble.
Glazing
One commonly glazes with colors that do not have body, such as
lake & verdigris. However, to use other colors, one
mixes in a quantity of calcined & ground cristallin, which also
has no body & makes lightens the density of the others.
White and black
It is good that an apprentice should work with white
& black for two or three years to become an
artist.
Lead whiteIt does not die & has a lot of body.
Imprimatura
One needs to be quite careful about this, & not make it, as some
will, with gold color which is made with the washings of
oil paintbrushes, because verdigris &
other corrosive colors which are in it will in the end will make
the colors die that are meu layered on next. It is
good to do itwith ceruse, & a bit of yellow ocher, &
a little massicot, & make it not very thick in order that it does
not crack.
Double layers
The Flemish & those who paint panels by the dozen only
make one layer & finish at the first go, but the colors soon die.
And when they are layered twice, they do not die. One needs to layer
them lightly & not very thick, to soften them well.
Shadows
For women, asphaltum, umber, & a little
lake.
*Or mat
It is made with massicot, minium, ocre de ru,
& yellow ochre, in order that the composition
resembles gold. Gild the day afterun
jo it is laid down if you in the make the
seat for the color in the evening. After having gilded,
let it dry & rest one day, next rub the gilding
with a feather & cotton in order
that no protrusions remain, then varnish with Flanders
varnish, which you make mixed with a little eau-de-vie, to render it desiccative.
The varnish will be dry in an hour. It
will increase the color of gold. And this or mat holds
in the rain, even if one rubs it. But it must be well dried
for eight or ten days.
Gold color that is made of different colors cleaned from
paintbrushes for oil is not so good, & with
time, tarnishes the gold because of the verdigris. One
must not touch with a finger the layer made for
the gold because that will keep it from attaching itself. The or
moulu is spoiled if water touches it, but the or
mat holds well in the rain & in water.
One must not burnish it, because the tooth would remove it.
Gather the protrusions & small flakes that the
cotton makes lift off when the gold is
dry & you clean it, for an ounce is still gold. In
Flanders, women makegild. It is more
beautiful when it is a little thick, but in France they beat it
too delicately.
Breathe on the gold color, and if it fogs up, it is dry enough,
but if it does not receive the vapor of the breath, it is not
enough.
One ought not to gild with or mat after with
having gilded. But wait one day or one night, But
take heed not to and when it is as if dry, it grips the
gold. Next, one varnishes.
Painting in distemper on woodBecause it is very tedious to paint in distemper on
wood, and because one is at pains to make a good
a face on it, some thin their colors with glair of egg
passed through a sponge, or mixed with the yolk,
water, & thoroughly beaten with the peelings of the fig
tree. With this
| they paint & soften on the wood,
as with oil, and this supports the varnish, but this does
not last.
Colors in oil that are imbibed
It is best that colors in oil are imbibed, that is to say
they do not remain shiny after they are dry, for they do not die. But if
in some places they are shiny, it is that the fattiness of the
oil has remained in that part, which would make the colors die.
The varnish mends all this & unites & renders it similar
in one place as in another.It is necessary that gold color be laid down thick, for if it were clear, it
would be imbibed & would run.On canvas & in distemper, one gilds with bole
& honey & a little garlic juice.
Gilding molding for panels with or matsee the other side of this folio this mark:
*The Flemish give a layer of distemper glue
on the molding, then mix lamp black or
soot black with the same glue & let dry.
Next they pounce some moresque in the corners & paint it
with minium, massicot, & ocre de ru,
and a little yellow ochre, tempered with fatty oil
in which they clean their paintbrushes for oil,
because the three aforesaid colors are gripping & dry immediately.
Next they lay down the gold, then varnish on top of all. And it
seems to some by this means that all this black is painted in
oil, but it would not be good because the gold would
attach itself everywhere & not only to the moresque. Go
back to the top to *
When gold color starts to grip, it is a sign that in ten or twelve
hours it will be dry & appropriate for
gilding.
*
To make or mat beautiful, put in a little varnish
or fatty oil, not from that which is made from the cleaning of
paintbrushes, but the pure, which is made fatty in
the sun or mixed with ceruse.Or mat of this sort is scarcely less beautiful than
esburnished gold, and lasts
longer in the rain, & besides, & is made sooner.
Burnished gold cracks over time & comes off
in the rain.
For preventing teats from swellingd or to diminish overly large onesTake large loaves of bread freshly drawn from the
oven & split them in half &, as hot as may
be done, apply them & they & do this 3 times a
day & continue 4 or 5 days.
Next, make a plaster with Venice turpentine or better,
common turpentine. Mix in sumac,
blackthorn sloes, quince seeds,
pomegranate flowers, olive tree leaves,
& the like, decocted, & mix with the turpentine. But, I
forgot, one needs, after having applied the hot bread, which
softens & makes one sweat, to put on linen cloths soaked with water
from a honey bee hive, that is to say honey &
wax extracted all together from the honeycomb.
For attracting pigeonsFry hemp seed in a pan with oil
& give it to the pigeons.
Against bruising of the eyesAt night, apply very thin sheets of lead. Singular
remedy.
PaintbrushesTo make them well, cut the hair from the tail of a
squirrel’s fur, as much in one go as one can hold in a
card folded up like a cannule. And putting it thus into
the said folded card, tap it & shake
it such that the hair comes together & is rendered
the same length. Put one or two bristles of a rat’s
whiskers in the middle, then, grabbing it with the fist &
pinching it well with the thumb & index finger,
thoroughly wet the tip of all this hair in water, then,
moving close to the
light, pull out the hairs which make the tip too long with the
ends of your fingernails, and this until the tip seems good to
you, & until you notice in it the rat hairs
which are entirely black & the hair of the
petit-gris is at the
whitish from the root to the middle. When it pleases you, bind
b and tighten it very well with a thread in
two places, then cut the excess & fit it in a quill of a
convenient thickness for it, of a duck or a crow for the
small ones. Good paintbrushes are those that, once dipped
in water, do not bulge when you trace on your hand.
OilAll oil which is imbibed by paper & once heated by
fire evaporates & leaves the paper clean, like
turpentine & spike lavender oil, is good for
making varnish.
SandEvery ground & tempered thing becomes porous, according to
some.
Bellows furnaceBefore putting in the metal, it is necessary that it be red
at the bottom, like a charcoal & well inflamed. Next,
you fill it & cover the charcoal &
adjust the bellows, otherwise the metal on top would
melt by means of the bellows & its bottom would be
curdled & cooled & would not run. But if you proceed in this
manner you will melt everything you like.
Varnish on paperThe Germans make boxes p covered with painted
paper & varnish it with glair of egg mixed with
gum & a little oil, not of spike
lavender, but another fragrant one that resembles
olive oil. Every work done with glair
supports oil. It is with this that painters trick the
poor peasants, painting their bands of taffeta with
this glair, to be done sooner. But the first rain
carries away everything.
FilesIf they are not trempées à pacquet, that is, in the fashion
described, with soot, salt, & vinegar, they
will not be good. The square large square files used
by locksmiths for their rough work are only made of
soft iron, but the soft files must be made of
steel. Founders whose work is to repair latten
& copper must have their filesd
coarse otherwise they would fill up with the copper which would
make them smooth & soon render them useless. Latten, which is
more brittle, welcomes softer files than copper
does.
Bones of the foot of oxen for sandOnce having been burned well twice & pulverized, they mold very
neatly in sand & need not be reheated, but simply heated with the
flame of straw. But if you mold them en noyau, give it
its first layer, simple & very thin, with a
paintbrush, & leave to dry at ease. Next, fortify the
following layers with wadding mixed with the said tempered
sand of bone.
It is the neatest sand that can be found for copper.
Essential oilsWalnut oil mixed with as much of
turpentine & distilled through an alembic renders an
essence whiter than common water. But this has no body & does
not give bond to colors that are immediately imbibed, and then leaves
the color without hold and fading. These, imbibing in this way,
would not give you leisure to work and soften any more than in distemper. But
you mend this defect by giving it a little body with
turpentine, not at all so thick as for varnish. And thus you can
work with azur d’esmail & will make a perfect
lead white. Turpentine varnish made with this oil
is dry in one hour.
Fanciful tables
You can make various grooved compartments & in these, put
fishes painted from nature & with colors on simple
carton, & if you please, on silvered &
burnished paper which will represent the scales. And next,
cover this with very clear lantern horn. You can apply the same
to other works.
Planting trees
One needs to plant them in dry placedry weather, & gather plenty of earth at the
foot all around, like a mound, in order that the rains do not fill
the holes & drown the trees.
Casting
I have tried four kinds of sand for lead & tin:
chalk, pestled glass, tripoli & burnt
linen, all 4 excellent. But as for the chalk, it needs to
be of the softest kind you can find, like the Champagne one
that painters use. It releases very neatly, does not want
to be moistened with magistra or anything else, but needs to be
completely dry, in its natural state, finely
pulverized. The first cast is always the
neatest; however, it will well withstand two or three. But there is only
the first one that you need to take heed of, when you want to remake
your frame mold to take new powdered chalk that has not
yet been put to use, for the one previously used in the frame has
dried out & does not have as much hold & bond like the fresh one.
Pestled glass can be made from common glass sand, however,
cristallin is more excellent, for common glass contains
glasssalt of saltwort only, but
cristallin contains both salt of tartar &
saltwort all together, which both help fusion, the glass
once calcined & reduced as if to its prime substance. In order to
calcine it perfectly, throw your pieces of glass, whichever it be,
among the largest possible lit charcoals that you can, if you are
lacking another amenity tfor violent firet.
And when it is well red, throw it into
waterPutty is considered excellent for these two metals.
and immediately you will be able to crumble it between your
fingers and easily pestle in a mortar of metal,
or better yet, of iron. Next, it
will be easy to grind it, not only on common
marblethat would corrode, but on
porphyry, and it is necessary that it be finely ground
with water so that when putting it on your
fingernail, you find it soft without any asperity, like
the p colors that the painters grind for oil. This one, once dry, you can
use au lie instead of sand, in a frame
without moistening it with anything nor reheating it, if you do
not want to; fumigate the hollow form with sulfur smoke or de
p with the tip of the flame of a wax candle
that barely makes smoke, and it will make a very neat & shiny &
polished work, in pure lead & tin. I would
say the same for finely pulverized tripoli that does not want to
be not reheated or moistened. Burnt linen gives less
trouble than any other, because it needs neither to be reheated nor to be
moistened, & molds and releases very neatly &
very, subtly & releases well neatly, like the
previous ones do as well, & withstands several fusions. First one ought to burn
it with a flame, then leave it to rest & to be consumed with its
fire until it wears it out, then finely grind it on
marble or on a paper. But because a
lot And if you reheat it in a crucible, red hot due to
the fire, to render all of it fine & impalpable, I believe it will
be even better. But because a lot of linen is reduced to very
little when burned, if you want to save some, you can sprinkle only the
medal that you want to mold & cover it, and fill the frame with pestled slate, which molds also very neatly. But
note that the first cast is always the most beautiful & the neatest.
If you cast opportunely, soft tin that seems to be
burnished in little wheels that pewterers sell, comes out
very neatly & approaching the color of silver, without mixing
in anything. It is true that one ought to cast it rather hot, &
so that the molded object should be 4 fingers away
from the cast. In order to know its heat, first melt it well, so
hotwith such a degree of heat that it
promptly burns in a shiver a paper or straw placed
inside. Then remove it from the fire & leave it to
rest a little & cast. Tin mixed
with halflead comes out almost better than pure tin
pureor or lead, even
though in any case they come out well. Nevertheless take care not to
cast lead at all as hot as tin. In big works it is necessary
to moisten the sands with magistra or glair of egg.
JoinerThree things take the longest to make: leaves, hair &
garlands.
SandYou should not choose for casting the one that is in any way so lean
& arid that it does not have bond, like the one from the
sea or deseifrom sandy
paths dried out by the sun. But choose
them or in t in the first place from
quarreriesries or rock caves,
because that one is best, provided that it is very fine. You will recognize the
vein of it if, among the greyish rocks or quarriesqu that seem to be made of arene,
you see, after rainy weather, certain small
patches like dust attached to the said rocks, or if due to the
humidity, a small piece of it flakes off, which easily crushes between your
hands. You will also find in lean soils some which comes
off in lop large lumps like stones of
tufet ne, or among terres
bolvenes, which are much better than those in
fatty & strong earths. And one ought not to take it from the
surface, for fear that it be mixed with common earth, but three
or 4 feet below & the closest to the
tuf or stone. Since it comes out in large lumps one would say that it starts to take shape as a stone. But when it is wet, it
comes apart easily. One needs to make sure that when breaking it up it
is quite granular, & that when cushed between the
fingers, it renders itself into very great subtlety, like
impalpable, keeping nevertheless its sandy asperity, without muddying the
fingers like clay. It is dried slightly on the
fire, then it is pestled & passed finely through a double
sieve or a linen sleeve, then is moistened with
wine or magistra &c / Verte
The Toulousemolder reheats it strongly then grinds
it finely on marble and passes it through a
linen & moistens pass it with
wine. He makes the cast very broad & ne
flat & barely deep. He casts pure latton used for trebuschets
& similar thin things. He casts very hot.
Try calcined vitriol.
The sand near my area is very excellent. But one ought
to, in order to make an excellent work, take it fresh, which has been hardly
put to work. For it dries out after having been cast several times & is
lean & has no body. If you cast some fine work which has hardly any
thickness, it is necessary that your substance of copper be very
hot so that it penetrates & runs. Some mix lead in this
melt, but it is for large works & not for small ones.Sand from oxen feet, burned twice & finely ground,
melts more neatly with copper than sand that I have seen,
& without crust. I have cast a high relief medal with it, and
f with a thickness as delicate as a knife
blade or a card. And it was hollow on one side, opposite the
relief, which was on other side.It is necessary that lean sands be more moistened than
others, namely with magistra or good pure wine or
boiled wine with elm tree roots & similar things.
But very fine sands, like burned linen, which is fatty &
soft on its own, want to be applied dry.All moistened sand wants to be strongly beaten & stirred, to
be ground finely & to flatten out the clods that it makes in itself
when it is bathed.The olive oil that some mix in with beaten egg
glair makes it become porous.Sand of calcined glass withstands several fusions, but there
is nothing like the first ones. It also becomes porous.Latten comes out well on its own, but it runs too quickly. It is
good to mix it with a little copper, like a quarter
part, with the substance of skillets.Founders do cast frames up to 30 or 40 lb,
but not more.
It is good for big work, but for small ones it is troublesome for
releasing Il because it crumbles. It is good that
it be alloyed with some fatty thing which has bond such as molded
tripoli or abburned felt or sal
ammoniac or tripoli & similar things.
When you have molded, it is good to reheat your mold on the fumes of
the substance you are melting, because the cast is imprinted with the quality
eof the metal, which afterward runs more easily in something that comes from it.Human bones are the best for casting once
calcined.To cast neatly, it is necessary that your substance be quite hot
& to achieve this, when your substance is melted, throw in some
iron scales, either in powder or otherwise E, for
it heats copper a lot & cleanses it of its grease. At the
end, when you want to cast, add some saltpeter, by folding your
additions in a paper in order that everyone may not know what you
mix in.Sheep foot bones are even better than those of oxen
foot.Oil & tallow make it very porous, &
pestled glass, & copper alone.Cendrée earth molds very neatly.Ash does not have enough body to withstand
copper.It is better not to mix the sands, but to fill the frame with
one only.Latten is always fatty, & does not mold neatly. One finds
that it comes out better alloyed with a quarter of
copper, but let it be cast very hot.Copper comes out well with a bit of metal. If you mix
in metal within latten, it will be more brittle & more
troublesome.Slightly coarser sand has more body.Sand from corp rock is always better,
which seems like tuf in lumps, which has a beautiful
& very fine grain, & a little fatty. One pestles it, then one
dries it in a skillet on the fire, until it is no longer
smokes, then one passes it through a fine & double sieve,
& one molds with it.Copper or latten cannot come out well if the medal does
not sufficient thickness, & if it does not have it, give it some
with wax.
Some cast through a hole made in the middle of the reverse side of the
medal.
Some, wanting to cast large works in latten, y
mix in the sand some pestled glass to give the earth
bond. But it makes it porous, and the work needs to be repaired.
One puts in lead for a large work to make it run, but not
not
for in a small one because it would leave filth all around
the work.
Copperis bett and latten are proper to
cast & at the right heat when they throw off, while stirring them in the
crucible, a very white flame & that the bath is very
liquid.Some cast in well ground cerusepour
le, others in flour moistened several times with
oil& g & dried in the
sun.Others, for casting in lead, old
printers' type or the composition thereof.Others put into the tin or lead a substance of
fixed quicksilver which makes it run.
AmberIt softens like paste when boiled in melted wax, and
takes color boiled with cerufat of a young goat kid, for that of
a goat buck would make it break, principally if it is glazed.
Wood with streaked grainThe elm, in its knotty root, has beautiful streaks
diversified with grey and black, and the root of the
maple, but one needs to chose well the grain of the
wood. One gives the maple a certain yellow color,
then one varnishes it.
Mulled and sugared wine
The English, when they feel a cold coming on, mull wine in this
manner. They heat it in a largetin pot until
it boils, and when it is boiling up, they remove it from
light it with burning paperto know if it is hot
enough. Next, to ignite it entirely, they pour it from one
vessel into another, as one who wants to beat eau
panée, and as they are doing this, someone else lights with a
burning paper what is falling from one vessel into the
other, such that you would think you were pouring fire. When the
wine is mulled enough, heat it again a little, adding a few
cloves & a sufficient quantity of sugar. And
they dri drink it as hot as they can to overcome a cold.
The common English put sugar in wine to affect
for themselves the sweet new wine which they cannot have because,
owing to the long sea crossing, the wine has lost its
sweetness and is clarified before it reaches their country.
Weary horsesFor fortifying a harried horse, they make it drink some of
the aforesaid wine through a horn, and it finds itself
disposed for doing an even greater labor.
Eau-de-vieThe Irish do not drink any wine because they convert
it into eau-de-vie, which they use almost as habitually as we use
wine.
VarnishTo a half lb of spike lavender oil, put in
4 ℥ of sandarac & mastic subtly pulverized.
And first, boil your oil in a
pot on a chafing dish, and then mix in little by
little the aforesaid gums, stirring continually with a
small stick split and quartered at the tip, & when you do
not collect gum with the tip, that is to say that it is totally
melted & that your varnish is done. And to render it clearer,
put in a small lump of camphor to decoct. It is true that
with this it is not dry so soon. Heed well that the spike
lavender oil be good, clear & not fatty, otherwise
your varnish would be worth nothing. You can test it
d by soaking some paper in it & heating
it. If the oil, which will evaporate, leaves the paper
clean, without being a yellow mark, it is good, if not, it is
fatty.
Sheep fat
In a certain region of England, the sheep that
graze there have very yellow fat and are nevertheless just as good as
others.
SpiderIn Ireland, there are none, & if one touches them
with wood that is there, they die. This is why some
rich people of England make their ceilings from this
wood, & by this method, they never have cobwebs
& spiderwebs.
SandGrindings are very good for casting in
copper, but one ought not to take those of
cutlers, because it is only sludge, but rather those
of those who grind mold large shears.Pierres de filieres, with which those who sharpen, mold very neatly, once scraped, for lead. It is
commonly slate-colored. One frequently brings them to
Toulouse from around Carcassonne .
Printer’s letters
Those who make them, mix into the lead some
nailsnailheads & old
horseshoes, & antimony which makes it all melt.
This composition is strong for printing, & holds up. It runs
and is good for casting in lead.
Casting in copperIt is necessary that the frame be quite even & that
it fits well also on the board where it is set, so that it holds
firm & does not shift when one molds. It is necessary that the sand
be clean & well chosen and well reheated, & pulverized very
finely on marble, for the one that you want to put
first on the medal, and that you press strongly when molding. Guard against
oiling your medal, for this would make it porous. Reheat slowly
and reheat well, & let cool. Moisten your sand with wine boiled
with elm root, and cast latten which comes out well /
namely from the substance of the trebuschets and similar
thin things. Make your gate broad & even if it is barely thick, it
will not be worse off, but it will enter well in the mold. Cast
from the foot of the medal, in order that the face, further away from the
heat, comes out better & more relieved from the violent heat. And if
your frame does not have vents, make some
qu in the sand, which come from the edges
of the piece, to go into the gate. Cast very hot, which you
will recognize when you throw a little reserved substance in that
which is already well melted, & if it melts quickly, this is a sign
it is fo quite hot. At that time, invigorate the heat
of your furnace with bellows of the right size,
keeping the mouth of the furnace well covered with some large
coppertile or other similar thing,
which should be very red before you cast. When you want to cast, take
your red-hot pincers & the crooked
iron as well, to clean the charcoals which are in
your substance. Having cast, rub your work with a latten
wirebrush. The grindings from sharpening large scissors &
large knives is very good for copper.
One believes it to be a great secret to put in
persicaire, which renders them soft as lead.Try
to extract salts from it.
Casting
Lead, which is mortified & weighty, wants to be cast hot,
more so than tin. And when it is not hot enough, it makes lines
in the medal. ItStraw burns in it, however little
hot it is. One can make a solder so soft & runny that it can be
melted in a tin dish. It is composed of one
partlooking-glass tin, one partsoft
tin, & another part lead. It runs very neatly
and is cast in leaves, but the work is very brittle & breakable. The best solder is the common one for casting well, but
is leaves certain points lumpy. Alloy lead with
tin so that the ingot that you will cast comes out even &
shiny & polished, & without any eyes or bubbles except for a
small point in the middle. And this sign will tell you that there is
enough tin, otherwise the lead dominates too much. Sand is
good for lead & tin. The good one is very thin &
fine & lean, which nonetheless sticks together between one’s
fingers. The sand wants to be reheated before putting
it to use. And once to mold with it, it wants to
be much moistened & then reheated, not all at once nor with a burst
of fire, for this corrupts & makes it shrink & crumble as well.
But if you reheat it gently, it renders itself very stiff, once well
moistened. One ought to pass it through a shirt
sleeve for the finest one, in order to put it first on
the piece to mold.One makes a solder with quicksilverbut which is white, but it is brittle. Make it so that your frame
joins well & that one does not see the light between the joints.The Germans cast their leads very thinly, because it seems
they come out better than very thick ones, but in order that
are not too pliant, being so thin, they mix a little tin with the
said lead, which otherwise would bend like wax.The blackest lead, so some say, is the best & the softest
& which runs the best. You will know its goodness by rubbing it
with your finger, which will render it very black
immediately.The alloy good for running lead & tin is per one
lb of lead, one lb & a half of tinaultr, in order that the tin exceeds more than one
part. It is solder which flows well & is good
for casting, but it is brittle.
To make the lead flow well, one puts in a little
quicksilver.
Rub cuttlefish bone on a well evened table to
flatten it & one against the other & pierce through the two bones
with pegs to mark the place.Cuttlefish bone molds lead better than
anything else. But try it to see if it needs reheating. One ought
to mold on the back of the bones & from this side for the
marrow is more delicate there.
The bone marrow toward the tail is more delicate & does have
not as many stripes & molds more cleanly. The shell which
holds the marrow, once calcined, is good for making sand.
When you cast lead, you need to cast it cast very
neatlyrather hot, & not at once & shake the
frame a little & cast two or three times. However, if it
is cast too hot, it will rise up & swell. When it is very hot, it
becomes blue, let it then pass this color deva &
rest a little before casting.
Some, such as printers, mix iron or pin filings
in the lead, but in order to render it
hard. But this renders it brittle ¬ it breaks under
the hammer.
Take a wirebrush to clean your molds.
For making blue varnishTake the blue of flowers florey or of
Flanders & quicklime, and put around
four fingers of water over it, and let it soak one
day. Take the water where the said
lime has soaked, and put your blue with it, and lay
it down on the wood.
For orange color
Take water in which lime has soaked and put
terroy merita, one with the other, and then
set on your wood.
For ridding bone or horn of grease
One needs to make them boil in quicklime, and let there always
be water, and take a very clean pan. And when they are
washed, boil them in the ash of vine shoots, and
put them into the hottest pot you can, and put into the potgoldsmith’s water, verdigris, and leave for
the space of some time, and you will see a very beautiful green color.
For making gray woodTake alum with river water, make them boil together,
then take river water with bran, submerge the bran
and beat it together. Take iron filings & sulfur &
verdigris and grindings, and make
it all boil together, and pound maplewood which will
have been soaked in alum water and well water, &
put it to boil together. All of this will be done better in a hollow
grais.
For making bronze in gold color
Take one ounce of sal ammoniac and grind it in an
iron mortar. Once well ground, take one ounce
of sulfur, and
grind it separately. When it is well-ground, take the sal
ammoniac & grind it together again. Then take one ounce
of soft tin & one ounce of quicksilver, then
melt your tin & put your quicksilver drop by drop into
your tin while melting, & stir strongly until it is
powder.
For coating it
Take some glue of Partenayor parchment
and apply it with the white of one egg, then take a little
saffron and vinegar and the milk of the fig
tree, and do another coat. Then take the bronze and
apply it on top.
VarnishTake two ounces of spike lavender oil &
one ounce of sandarac. Take a clean pot, &
warm it, & then take it from the fire, and next put the drugs
inside, and next put them into a vial, & apply it on the
wood.
Another recipe for making varnishTake one ounce of verinseVenice
turpentine & one quarter ounce of oil of perollepetrolle & one ounce of sandarac
& one of spike lavender oil.
Color of burnished copper
Take one ounce of sal ammoniac with one
ounce of brouillamini and half of copper
filings with one ounce of sulfur & a
half-septier of vinegar. Push it all into a small
tile oven and make a small charcoal fire around it, and put
your pot into the said oven for the whole
day.
For bronzing white
Take looking-glass tin & put it to soak in gum
water & pestle it in a mortar. And next, you will put it
on marble.
For making vermilionTake two pounds of sulfur, & melt it, & put
it into two pounds of merecusemercury. And if this substance ignites, cover it quite
gently, so the air does not pass into the pot, then put the
whole for some time after into a leaded pot, onto the
fire for the space of twenty-four hours. You will
have good vermilion.
For making varnishTake one pound of linseed oil, and then you
will put it in a earthen pot, mixed with a crust of
bread and three onions, and put it on top of a
charcoal fire, and you will cook it on a little fire, so that it
boils for the space of five hours. You will take
half an ounce of flour glue, & you will
make it boil just as before and stir with a spoon. And then,
after, you will put in two ounces of well-pestled
sandarac & will do as above. And then after, you will take
mastic & arrabeic,
two ounces each, which will both be well ground, and you
will put everything together, & will make it boil while stirring
continuously, for the space of five hours. And then
you will put d’araucqrock alum,
two ounces, & then you will make it boil. And if you add
two ounces of
l’arablearabic to it, if you see
that they are not cooked enough, have it cook more on a low
fire until it is cooked enough. And pour it into a cloth
that should be rather tight. And when you have poured it, let it to
cool a little. And if you see that it is too thick so that you cannot
pour it, you will put a little of the said oil & you will
make it better.
For making red varnishTake vermilion and make it soak in quite clear gum water,
like the other. Make two or three ground layers as above.
For making yellow varnishTake some gum arabic & soak it tr
with water, then take some well beaten saffron, &
temper the said gum, and make it quite clear, then make your ground
layer on that which you want to varnish, & let it dry, & when it
is dry give another ground layer of the same, & let it dry as before
until it is dry enough. Then take varnish from an
apothecary, dash by blows, one quite far from the other.
Then wash your hands quite well & with your
palm spread your varnish.
Recipe for white gumTake white wax & ceruse & a small amount of fine
pitch very well pestled together, & put it in a small new
pot & make it melt. And when it will be melted you will
make a spatula of woodof&
burnish what you want.
Green gumTake green wax with a small amount of verdigris and make it
melt as above.
Red gum
Take red wax, vermillion, & a small amount of
resinsresin pitch, as above.
Bronze of copper
Take da some verdet & clear
glue, & grind it together. Then make a layer on your
wood, and take pin filings, and grind it on
marble with water, then pour it on the
wood & polish it with copper.
Bronze like tin
Take looking-glass tin, two ounces of
quicksilver, & melt the looking-glass tin into a new
pot. And difiantas soon as it is all melted, put in the
quicktaiantsilver, & remove it
from the fire, & let the said glue dry. Then take a piece of
tin & burnish it on marble with clear
water, and then coat it on the wood, and polish it with a
piece of tin.
For making aquafortis
Take a half-septier of vinegar with one
ounce of verdigris, & one ounce of
copperas & one ounce of solle, then
put them together in a glass vial.
Or moulu
Take fine gold & put it on a quite clean
bumarble & put aquafortis & start crushing. Then take saltpeter & sal
ammoniac, and put it into a shell which should be large
& washed, for safekeeping.
For making gray woodOne needs to take three half-septiers of iron
filings, xviii sdeniers'-worth of
glass alum, & as much green copperas,
six deniers'-worth of verdigris, ampitch,
& a quart of cuyrcurrier'swater, and if you cannot find it, you will put morerainwater of small degree.
For gilding on woodFirst one needs to put down a layer of very clear glue, and
once dry, you will put down a layer of yellow gold. And when it is
done, you will take fig tree wood, & put it to soak
some space of time, & wash the places you want to gild, and
cut your gold with a knife to the price that you will
lay. And one must lay the said gold with
iecotton.
And if you can find a fig tree,
take the the white of one egg & stir it vigorously.
If your gold does not have beautiful enough color, you will take
a partridge feather, & make it burn in a
chafing-dish, and make the smoke go against what you have
gilded.
For gilding with or moleuOne needs to take a shell of gold
and, before you want to work with it, you will put it to soak with gum
water and lay it down with a paintbrush, &
polish it with a skinwolf’s tooth when it
is dry.
Recipe for putting all woods in color
For making it black, one needs to soak it in olive
oil, and similarly for horn, as the case may be, four or five
days, & then boil it where it has soaked
for the space of one hour, & take it out of the
oil, and take some natural sulfur or another
if you cannot find it, and cover the said wood with this
powder, until it is cool, & you will make it boil again, &
boiling it, one will see if it is black enough or not. If it is not
enough, you take the said powder & put it on the said wood
while boiling.
For making wood green
One needs to take one quart of white vinegar & one
ounce of green & one ounce of glass alum, all mixed together, and you will put your substances
into a leaded pot over the fire without taking air,
& then put the pot in a dung heap for
fifteen days, and once it is out, you will boil your
substances for the space of three hours.
For making wood red
Take one quart of old urine and three ounces of
madder & one ounce of glass alum, and you will put all in your pot, & do
as with green.
For making it blue
Take one quart of urine as above and one ounce
of alum & two drams of sal ammoniac &
half an ounce of pastel woad flowers, the whole made
into powder, and do as with green.
For making it violet
Take one quart of urine & one ounce of
alum & two drams of sal ammoniac & one of
lake, & do as above.
For making it yellow
Take urine as above and two ounces of
guesdre woad & one ounce of fustet
and two ouncesdrams of sal ammoniac, & do as above.
For making very beautiful color of gold & of little
expense
First take very yellow orange peel, & clean them
well of the white that is inside, & pulverize them very well
andin a very clean mortar. And take as
much of sulfur, & grind all together, and put everything in
a glass vial, & keep them in the cellar or
other damp place for the space of eight or ten
days. Then when you want to use it, one needs to
warm it and use it where you want, & you will see a very beautiful
color.
For making black goumiche
Take some glue, & temper it with vinegar, & melt it, and it should be very clear. And take lampblack or another
black & mix them together, then put it on wood.
For the white
One needs to take white wax with ceruse, and melt it all
together, & lay it on wood or another thing.
For gilding iron or tinFirst one needs to wash that which one wants to gild in wine
lees, and then wash it again with white wine, and take three
ouncesterra merita & a chopin of
white wine, and boil the substances the space of half an
hour, & put down your colors on your iron or
tin, or other, and then let it dry on a piece of
paper, & not put the hand in your
materials.
Against redness of the faceMake a small lead cap & wear it overnight.
Excellent secret. Try a lead mask.
Medicine of the orientalsagainst all
maladiesDry rosemaryin the month of
May, then fill this bowl with powder of it, and
put a lit charcoal on top. And, receive the
smoke by a quite tightened mouth, and a part will come
out by your nose. But if you want to purge the head
also pinch the nose. Against colds, rheums, and other
maladies.
Fatty earthFounders, to make the handles of their bells, use it. And
before it is used, they beat it very well, then leave it to dry in
the shade, little by little & for a long time, and mold with
it very neatly. But it must not be sandy
&, but rather well chosen & soft.
Recipe for making bronze and varnish of many
sorts
For making excellent varnish with clear water which
you will use with a paintbrush and immediately dry, for
putting on paper, a tablet, or another piece.First, you will take five ounces of eau-de-vie
and one ounce of benzoin pestled between
two pieces of paper or card or in a mortar,
but it should not be too small, then take a
glass vial not too big and put into it a half of these
two, namely two & a half ounces. Next take the said
benzoin just as coarsely pestled, and put it to use with the
said water and let it rest for the space of one & half
days, & then take the said water &
put it into another glass vial & mix it very well.
And on the rest of the said benzoin that remains at the bottom of
the said first vial, put the rest of the water over this,
and do as before when you see that the case is going well, and mix the
first water with the second. By means of this you will be able to
use it for something more noble.
Another approved varnishTake two ounces of linseed oil & two
ounces of petrolle oil and two
ounces of mastic, the whitest you can find, and of
glass alum, & grind it, and take a little bit of
white copperas, and put all these drugs together into an
earthen pot that should be new, and lay it on hot
ashes for a bit, and you will see a beautiful
varnish.
Another varnishTake petrolle oil & spike
lavender oil, as much of one as the other, & mix it
together with copperas, & make them melt over hot
ashes, according to the quantity that you want to make. To lay
down this varnish, put three coats on the work that you want to
varnish.
Another varnishTake one ounce of spike lavender oil &
of sang de raiyeda Rac & make
these drugs melt in a new earthen pot, &
when it will be melted, you will pass it in a clean cloth
& you will see a beautiful varnish.
Another varnishTake one ounce of spike lavender oil &
heat it over charcoals, & then take a half ounce of
sang dea
Raiec
& grind it coarsely, and then put it into the spike
lavender oil, & then mix it with a stick until you
see that it is melted, and then put it in a glass vial.
And when you want to use it, heat it little by little over the
charcoals. And before putting it down, put down a coat of very
clear glue, & then put it down with a paintbrush.
For making red varnishTake vermilion & temper it with gum water as well
as with other water, and make it like the other varnish,
& mix this other water like the other varnish, and
then lay it down as before for making three green.
For making green trwoodTake very strong vinegar, salt, &
rainwater, and one needs to put it all together with
verdigris, and put it in a new earthen vessel
with your wood, & put it in some very warm horse
dung for the space of eight or nine days.
For making bronze in the color of steel
Take glass alum & antimony, but one
needs twice as muchglass alum as
antimony, and pestle the whole together in an iron
mortar, & then mix with gum water while grinding it on
marble, & then one needs to use it with a
paintbrush, & next let it dry, and then polish it
with a tooth of a wolf or dog.
For making bronze in the color of gold
Take copper filings & ocher & gum &
alum, & grind it all together in a stone
mortar, and when it is well ground, you will lay it on the work
with a paintbrush, then polish it with a tooth of a
wolf or dog.
For making bone or horn green
Take verdigris & temper it with strong vinegar, then
soak your bone or horn an hour, &
then put it to use.
For making bronzeTake pin filings & other of latten, & put
it together, & grind it on marble, grind it well
with water little by little, until they are distilled, then put them
into some new vessel. And
when you want to use some of it, mix it with very clear glue,
& then you will layer it on what you want two or three times, &
then let it dry. But before layering it, lay down on it one layer of
very clear glue, & let it dry, & rub the said
bronze with a tooth of a wolf or
dog.
Making gray wood
Take some grais powder, ___ ___ ___,iron filings,
ironware, alum, currier’s’ black,
copperas, & glass alum.
For making water for disease of the eyes
Take white copperas, & heat it a little on the fire, then put
it as a powder on a white cloth stretched over a very clean
glass, & the powder on top, then take
fountain water & pass it through the said
cloth, while stirring the said powder with the
finger until it has all gone through. Then wash your
yeyesat any hour you wish
& with the help of God,you will find yourself very well from it.
For making bronze in the color of gold
Take six ounces of calcined tin & as much of
natural sulfur & six ounces of sal ammoniac,
and put the tin to melt in a spoon. When it is melted,
put in quicksilver, and cast it in a line, then pestle all these
drugs together in a mortar,
&
and put it into an earthen pot, & it should have
many hot ashes underneath, & little by little you will make
the fire underneath bigger and bigger, & one ought not to move it,
& when it is cooked, & it needs to be for six
hours, mind that the fumes do not harm you
for they are bad.
For making varnishTake some mastic, sang daRagedarac, gum arabic
& spike lavender oil, as much of one as the other,
& make them melt all together, & before coating it, lay a coat
of glue quite clear, & let it dry.
Antidote against the fumes of metalsIn the morning, take a piece of toast with butter,
& neither antimony nor any other vapor will be able to
harm you. Or put half a pig’s bladder in front
of the face.
Tin for casting
They use common tin, which is the one that
pewterers use to make plate, which is composed of 9 or
ten ten lb of fine lead for one
quintal of tin.Some find that there is nothing better
than fine tin.
Mixture for printersMake a layer of pulverized antimony, & a layer
of latten & old scrapings or thin plates of iron or
cloiron nail heads, and continue in this way
until the crucible is full. And melt inside a four à
vent, & then mix a little tin & fill up the
crucible with leaduntil it causes it. And
increase the fire & mix to make the substances alloy well. The
mixture for large letters is harder.
PetardThey make them of fine substance & fine copper, which is
capable of fifty lb of powder, in the shape of a
reinforced firkin, and having made a hole even of
with the ground at the foot of a wall with gimlets,
they set the said loaded petard in that hole, with the muzzle pointing
up, which makes a large breach.
Very hard white stuccoWhite wax, Venice turpentine,
eggshell, & ceruse.
Fountains
If you wish to make water rise higher than its source, make a
pipe descend as in A B to B in order to give it push
to the water, then from B to C make the
pipe ascend again, which should not quite attain the height of
the source, which is represented to you by this horizontal line, then
make the pipe descend again from C to D, then raise it again,
higher than the line showing the height of the source. And do this
successively until you have reached the desired height, heeding
nonetheless that the length of the descending pipe should be
twice as long as the ascending pipe. This
cornet folded back on itself also shows you a perpetual
fountain which you can fit into some rock, pulling the water with
which it is filled by the tip marked E, by sucking &
breathing in. You can also make a watering pipe in this manner, such
that the trussed-up length is as long as its straight pipe,
& nevertheless does not descend as far down.
Founders of small works of
tinThey usually cast with solder, even the things that should
not come out empty, for the latter require fine & soft tin,
which however would not release, & would not come out empty if it
was mixed or had some looking-glass tinmixin it, just like they put in a little of it in soft
tin. They engrave their works on stones of which are made the
sharpening stones or files of barbers, which are found in
great flakes near the mountains, & resemble
slate. They are of three colors: reddish, which is not as
perfect as the others because it does not last as long in the fire
& as,one dard of the color of dark
slate, the other whitish. When they have some relief, first they
imprint it on carton, as thick as one
finger, to serve as a pattern, then with a
little compass & little matching iron fittings, they
engrave their figures, having first flattened their stones &
worn down one against the other, they make their pmolds of three or four pieces, to make a circle or a square which joins
perfectly, because the stones render themselves even. Before
casting, they rub the mold with tallow, which has quickly
absorbed it because it is hot. Then, taking fine powder of
quicklime in a linen, they pounce the mold while
beating with the linen on top, then blow a little on top
to prevent it from becoming porous. The main thing is to make vents, if
the work is largish. They make them in this manner, as you see
represented here. They pierce a hole in some place on the medal that is
least visible. And then with a borer they pierce the mold on
the side of the medal.
And if they want their work to stay pierced in any place, they drive in
a bit of cork at this place in the mold. And
the lead or tin will not attach to it.
Make sure the pegs of your frame enter easily so
that in opening the frame will easily open without shifting anything,
and that your frames fit well together, & the table
is quite even.
Try to etch with distilled vinegar.
Try calcined oyster shells. They are said to be
excellent for molding.
SandOne can find an excellent one on the little hill of
Puy David near Thoulouse
for lead, tin & copper. It does not want to be
too much reheated because, drying out all at once, it loses its
bond & burns at the first arrival of metal, which makes
the work lumpy & not neat. It is better to reheat from a distance,
rather than with a straw flame, which generates
des some filth. Before filling in the frame, you can put in the finest sand you have in a very fine
linen, & dry pounce the medal and then the moistened sand
that you put on top, which has more body, will grip it.Tallow makes it porous.Fixed mercury mixed in when one wants to cast, makes
metallead run. But if it is pure, one ought to cast
very hot so that it runs. And vents.
Earth for molding
Tanner’s earth, or the one with which
potters make a whitening on pots to make lead run
better on them & to prevent the lead from being absorbed into
them, is very good for molding the hollow forms of things you want make in
relief. It releases better than plaster or sulfur which
become hard once they have set. For the earth being ready, one
ought to beat it hard so that it does not crack. If the piece is very
large you can mold it in several parts. If you reheat it, it is
necessary that it be over a closed fire. One finds this earth at
Fosseret & in another place
called Ox.
PlasterIt is necessary that it be well cooked, which you will recognize
when cooking it in an iron or metal pot, you
mix it with an iron rod, & if it attaches to the
iron, it is not cooked enough, if not, it is good. The
water with which you temper it should be a little warm & the
mold made with the aforesaid earth also a little hot.
The work of plaster does not last & the faces & delicate
things break if one does not give a coat of glue.
CartonOne ought to take paper from Florence, which is the
finest, & pestle it & soak it several times & change the
waterevery day, so that it does not smell bad, &
when you have molded it in the hollow form, put a
linen over it, & from the back, rub the back of the
paper with a tooth, as if you wanted to burnish it, and
it will mold very neatly. Then glue the cloth on the back
with strong glue.
SandOnly brick, very finely sifted, & worn down one against
another, is good for all castings of lead and copper,
mixed with urine. This needs to be of that whitish
brick.
Making copper and latten run
Put in at the end, when it is very hot & when you want to cast,
sal ammoniac & saltpeter, which removes filth
& heats it. Mix some ardides with the latten.
Guard against the metal touching the iron or the
latten of the frame, but cover it with sand or
lute. Do the casting very evenly.
SandCalcined black pebbles from the river are good for
lead, but they dullen metal.There is only clay earth with which one makes tiles, reheated & reddened & passed through a
sleeve finely mixed with glair.Willow charcoal is excellent for sand for
blead.Latten runs better.
Frame casting
It is good to make it with boxwood. Turn it in order
to make it even, as this is important for the casting. Lute also,
or cover the mouth of the frame with sand in order that the melted
metal, or lead, or copper does not touch the
frame’s iron or latten, because it makes it
brittle, & makes it porous. Also make sure that the cast is always
higher than the mold. Also guard against the cast being too
wide or too deep because the narrower, the better. For when it is big,
the weight of the substance that runs breaks & shakes loose the
mold & makes it porous. When you have cast, gently tap the
frame, in order that the substance spreads better. Black lead of
saulmon from the first melting makes a very neat one.
Heat of copperIt is hot enough when you see it neat & even on top, without
filth.
FrameIron & copper make it porous if the metal
touches it, & the wood warps. Thus, make a mold of
wood, & have frames of bricks made inside this mold of
whatever thickness that you want.
Glair of eggsGlair of eggs gives strength to sand to make several
casts.
ClockmakersTo divide the teeth of their cogwheels proportionately, they do not
use a compass, for there is none so fine that it can
compassdistances as small as those of the small
cogwheels. But they make a platform (as they call it)
of lattenfais divided into several circles,
& each circle is divided dintoequal distances marked by a
point, and each circle has a certain number of them, for example one 30,
another 36, another 40, &c. Then, on the pierced center of the
platform, they set the small cogwheel there, and on the
center of the cogwheel a flat line or alidade which is moved to the
circle with the number that you want to mark on your cogwheel. Then they
mark a line on the cogwheel with a sharp point, then move the alidade
to the following point, & continue to mark thus. And to mark the
points on the circles of their platform, they divide the
circle into three & then divide this third part into as many
distances as is necessary with regard to the total division of the
circle, & make in this manner their division & distribution
of the teeth as fine as they please.
ClockmakersIn the past, they tempered their springs by dipping them
into molten lead. But today they temper their springs
straight, & bend them once tempered, which is a
pa beautiful secret.
Casting lead in leadThere are some who make their hollow forms with thick lead, then
cast lead in them.Lead when not cast hot enough, is white, & blacker when cast
well hot.
One can make a lead mold, & to cast in it, smoke
it with candle black. But it is never that neat.
Never does lead come so neat as tin.
Sand
If it is too fatty, one ought to reheat it and sieve it again.
Method of casting in bronzeLatten of potincor, which is
the most brittle, molds more neatly, according to the opinion of many
people, than fine latten of pots, just like all fine
latten molds neater than red copper. If you want to cast
something fine & thin, the entire secret is to cast as hot as
possible so that the substance boils. You will recognize that it is hot
enough when it smokes a lot and while stirring it throws sparks. To heat
well, place your crucible as low as possible & at the very
bottom of the forge, so that the bellowsfra beat on the middle of the crucible, for
in this way it is better than on the grate on which one usually
puts the crucible, under which the bellows beat. It is
true that the crucible risks more danger breaking, but you can
lute it as you know founders do. And also, one ought
to maintain the charcoal between the bellows & the
crucible. Also take heed to cast all at once & not in
increments & drop by drop, which would stop & plug up the
conduit of the substance. And if you were to make in the cast a
trough to feed the medal, it would be even better. And in order
that the substance heats well at the bottom, stir it, once melted, with
a wood stick, for iron only makes it brittle.
Turn.
Some put wool stuffing in order to heat it & make it
run.
Put under your crucible a thick iron
slab, which will redden & will maintain the heat
under your crucible.
The copper substance is found to be good for casting, when once
broken it makes the grain long & not short, for it demonstrates that
it is soft. It is halffine latten & halfred copper. This long grain is called long stalk.
Sand for lead℞grey soot from the furnace of the
silversmiths, quick lime, and
flour, ana, moistened according to the art, being the
finest possible.
The grey soot of locksmiths, which is held in the
forge, is very fine once ground, molds very neatly, &
releases very well.
Sand for copper medals℞hat felt burnton a covered
fire, dross of iron, & burnt bone, all of which
ground very finely & pestled & watered with saltwater;
& make a paste of it & mold it, & wipe it over a
straw fire. These three sands, pulverized and very finely
ground on porphyry, mold well, and I think that
separately each of them is very good. Burnt hat felt molds very
neatly and releases very neatly.Plaster molds very neatly but it becomes porous. Bone has
scarcely any body unless it has iron dross. Felt makes it
release.
Another sandCharcoal of vine shoots & clay earth,
well cooked &wellsieved, as much of one as the other, & join them together
with well beaten glair of eggs, then calcine in the
furnace, & to use it, temper it with vinegar.
Another for lead℞finely pestled slate &
calcined pumice stone, mixed together. Calcine them in
a well covered pot, & thrice stoppered over a good fire,
& each time temper them with varnish.
Another
℞p a little-cooked tile,
ground & tempered in white wine with burnt black
tracing paper, & if you add burnt horse
dung, it will be all the better. Moisten with glair of egg.Tracing paper burnt over a closed fire is reduced just as
charcoal & very soft black, molds neatly & makes it
release well mixed with the others.
Excellent sandAlabaster calcined in a crucible over
charcoal fire, so that, touching it, it turns into powder. Once
cold, pulverize it finely & pass it through a double sieve
& render it as if impalpable. And d with one
lb of alabaster, one needs one
℥ of sal ammoniac. Mix well &
incorporate everything together, then put them in a
cellarcellar or a damp
place. And with this paste, mold what you will need, & next
dry the mold in the fire, & cast whichever metal you wish, while
the sand is hot; & you will cast as neatly as the principal, &
the sand can still be used by placing it in a damp place
& drying it in the fire.
A way for molding excellently with water
Dissolve in damp place some sandiver, and then
place this water on what you want to mold, having encircled it,
and place it to coagulate on the hot ashes. Do the same with
vitriol & copperas, which, once well calcined, reduce
in water.
Molding in relief on one part and hollow on the other
It is necessary to cast two pieces of copper, latten or
similar metal, very neatly, and then when you have molded the
hollow form in the sand, leave the figure of metal that you
s have molded in the frame, without moving it
from its place. And cast, & if there is not enough thickness press a
little & push the figure down in the frame.
It is good to mold always the faces not on the side of the cast, but
with the head on the bottom, because the force of the substance is at
the entry of the medal, & there, where the force is, the
filth & grime accumulate. And, in this way, if you
were mold the face toward the cast, some grime could be found
there, & it is better that is found on the clothing, which is easier
to repair.Vinegar is better for moistening than wine. It is
necessary that the frame be quite smooth and even, otherwise
and that the cast be, as you press on one side, the other one
lifts.
This is why the press is better, for it tightens evenly, &
more than your hands, and makes
the coarse sand, which is damp, communicate its humidity to the
soft & fine sand, which is sprinkled & pounced dry
on the medal.
When you mold, always leave your medal in one oftheframes, iswithout stirring
it because, if your hollow form is not molded very neatly, you can put
it back in the right place by means of pegs, which will prevent
it from shifting. But, at first, pounce your medal with very
fine willow charcoal, & se next
clean it, for this degreases it, & makes it easier to release afterward.Do not knock it when molding because this will shake loose the
frame & the sand.
BellowsTo melt with bellows, & hasten your melt,
& also cast hotter po, do not place your
bellows at the bottom near the foot of the furnace,
for fear that some charcoal might you enter it, put
them almost under the grate. It is good that your
four à vent be in an aerated place so that the
wind might make it heat better, & that it be well dry,
& reheat. One ought to plug the doors of the furnace
& that there is only the entry of the blast-pipe of the
bellows. And by the end, you need to give it force,
as at the beginning you will blow gently.
Impromptu mask
Mold some paper & put it on the face of somebody who is
making an ugly grimace. Let it dry & take your pattern to paint from
it.
#& swellings. It
is necessary that it not be too wet for the aforesaid reasons. Reheat
little by little. And if, after molding it, you leave it to
dry slowly, in some dry place & not over a big fire, it
would be better, for when one exposes it all at once to intense heat, it
warps. I believe that reheating it at the mouth of the oven,
after the bread has been taken out, would be very proper. One
ought not to complain about the difficulty of preparing it, for it
withstands as many castings as you wish, because it renders itself as
hard as marble, & you can polish it, & the mold
cannot be spoiled. Once used, pestle & sieve it again, yet
without being scrupulous to render it so fine,
I for having been passed only through a common
sieve, it has more force than and releases better, than
when it is so fine.
Eau magistraDissolve rock salt or salt finely
pulverized sandiver & put on marble in a
cellar, & it will dry out by reheating the mold,
& will give it a bond to withstand several castings. Try to
moisten it with tartar oil.
FlourGround during Advent, keeps for the whole
year.
Sand from a mine in ThoulouseThe sand from Thoulouse, which is taken, from the
depths of the earth, from the small hill of Puy
David, is excellent in itself, but to make it withstand
several castings, I mix it with pulverized sandiver &
moistened, which hardens it, & takes body & bond with it, &
makes it withstand more than five as many castings as you
wish. Try to moisten the pestled glass and other
esands with the waters of the aforesaid
salts. It wants to be, like all natural sand, well reheated
before putting it to use. One pulverizes it, because it is in lumps,
then one reheats it in a copper kettle or similar thing,
untill it no longer smokes
It is necessary to reheat it before using it. It is rendered better for
casting because it is reheated, but when it has been used a lot, one
ought to refresh it with new sand.
SandI tried the bone of oxenfeet, thoroughly burned &
pulverized & ground on porphyry, until it is
not felt between your fingers. It molds on its
own very neatly. But because on its own it is very arid & lean, it
wants to be well moistened & dampened with wine boiled with
elm root.Iron dross, well burned bone of oxen feet,
felt also well burned over a closed fire, and all three very well
ground on porphyry mold very neatly in lead,
without needing to be reheated a lot, & casting
lein a hot or cold frame.Felt alone molds very neatly once moistened & releases
well, and also makes the other two release.
These sands only withstand one casting.
A fatty sand which is rendered very smooth, makes it porous.
A fatty metal needs lean sand.
Eau MagistraSome people think that salt water is not good, because the
salt cracks in fire, & consequently should make it porous. There is only the wine boiled with elm
root.Charcoal for pouncing makes for a good release, but
one finds that the one of willow makes it porous. The one
of oak or beech does make it porous well without making it
porous.
Try burnt oysters.
LeadFor casting, there is only soft lead that wants to be cast
very g hot, and soft tin.
Sand for lead, the most excellent of all, for high and low
reliefs
I took ceruse and crushed it dry on
porphyry to make it very fine, then I moistened so
much with well-beaten glair of egg that it was like a paste,
smoothing it perfectly with the dull side of a knife. I left it
a little
X
One ought to mix it well with a knife.
to rest on a very clean & smooth table, & since it
is desiccative, I knew it would dry out lor, which I
let it do in order to reduce it to powder & to mold it with sand, broken up with my fingers & the sharp edge of
a knife. I oiled my medal, because oil cleans it
without spoiling it. And And having dried it & cleaned it
with a linen cloth & very small hog bristle
brushes, I once again lightly anointed it with clear
walnut oil & gently passed a linen cloth
over it so that it does not remain too anointed, and I noted that,
by this means, it would come out better in release, because the
ceruse, once moistened with water of glair of egg, would not
attach to the oil. This worked very well and I molded a medal of
high relief very neatly, without any sticking, which a lot of
good sands, such as felt, burnt bone & iron
dross, had failed to do on the first try. I reheated it & my
mold became hard like marble, and by this I knew
that sands for molding high relief should be well moistened with some
water, which gives them body & compactness, such as glair,
gummed water, eawine boiled
with elm root, &c; and lightly oil the medal, it
withstands as many castings as you wish, for it is as hard as
glass. But even soft lead & brittle tinv want to be cast very hot.Since then I have realized that this sand, even though it is
excellent & endures many castings & molds very neatly, nevertheless is fatty and makes things porous. Thus, soft leadand
the does not come out so well. But try to mix it with a lean
sand, such as pumice, scales & similar things to
give them body & so that they release better. For lean sands
barely release well and yet they receive metal well.
Try to mix ceruse or minium with other sands.
XOil & anoint with aspic oil, which will go
away when reheating, for the oil makes it porous.
One ought to moisten with glair, then mix it well. And once in
the frame, beat on top with a pestle, or other
appropriate thing, for this makes it mold better and release better.
It would be good to fill the frame all at once, for the
mixture that is made of several sands with that of the
mine, with which you fill the frame, corrupts
it.
Green varnish for medals of copperHaving cast them very neatly, cover them with sel de
verre that we use for sand & moisten it, & in three or
4 days it will be green. Next, oil them & keep
them under the dung.
GlueThe Flemish reglue their earthen pots with
gold color, that is to say minium, massicot &
varnish.
FounderThey mix beaten glair of egg with earth with which they make
the first layer of the cope of pieces, & bells, & all
other pieces, saying that the said glair makes it come out
d neatly, & lays down & settles the
substance. En noyau for a small work, glair is also
good.Rosette, to come out neatly, wants the mold
to be a little hot, & lead which has also been mixed with the
rosette, especially for small pieces.
MortarsIt is necessary that they be of the finest substance possible, such
as copper for cauldrons, which is better than
rosette, in order that it withstands the blow better.Also the mortars for pestling are stronger & less in
danger of breaking if they are of fine copper. And for a
private home, they do not ring so much & do not
carry as much noise as those of
metal. It is true that those that are
of metal have more of a ring for the
apothecaries.Grenades must be of fine metal.
Sand from the mineIt wants to be well reheated for great metals. Some burn it
in the furnace until it is very black and grind it finely on
porphyry. Others burn it with aspalte, but
when it is too burnt, it does not mold so neatly, because it does not
have body and is too lean. You can give it body with tripoli or
burnt felt.
Experimented sandsI have experimented with sand from
Thoulouse, & after reheating it well
twice, in a skillet, I passed it through a fine sieve,
like the apothecaries’ double, without finely
grinding it further on the porphyry, as I have done
previously. I moistened it with wine boiled with elm
root and molded with it a large piece of a portrait of
Jesus. I found it easy to release, without having it to knock
on it, Jen & molded neatly with one side in
relief & on the other in hollow, & of the thickness of a
coin of forty sous. I cast very hot
XSand from the mine, well chosen & well reheated, is the most
excellent of all, without looking for any other mixtures, because it
receives all metals. It does not want to be used hot, because it
makes things porous. The most finely ground for big works is not the
best, because it does have enough body to sustain.
with the material of a skillet mixed with a knob that is
potin. And before that, I had so reheated my molded
frame, now with the flame of my furnace, now putting
lit charcoals on top of it, that it became as if red. I let it
cool and cast. It came out very neatly in relief on one side & in
hollow on the other, as well for the figure as the letters. It is true
that the material was whitish, almost like metalline, but this was because
of the potin. I made another cast with only the material of
a skillet in the same sand, but not so reheated; it did not
come out well.Since then I have molded the bone of oxen feet, burned,
pulverized & sieved through a double sieve
& humfort moistened with
glair of egg or wine boiled with elm root. I knocked
on it moderately while molding. Having undone the opened the
frame, I found that the figures had not released neatly &
left the molds floury & crumbling. I
les moistened the bone sand further, so that
it gave a good hold in the between the
fingers, and in this way, I molded neatly with a good
release. And even though it seemed to me that the pulverized bone
was coarse, if there is some material of a skillet thrown in, my
figures came out very neatly. It is true that I had very very reheated
my frame; it withstood only one cast. I find that
when a sand is so finely grounded that it renders itself dense as
ceruse & even, like without knowing it to be arid,
rarefied, sandy & rather spongy, that it molds
very neatly, but it does not receive metal so well as if it were
porous to absorb the substance. But rather, once fatty & even, it
becomes porous & does not receive fine features. I believe that
the secret to cast well lies in finding a sand that receives the
metal well, one for lead, the other for another, for each
one has its particular one. Let it be molded slowly & carefully, and
leave it for a few days to become compact by itself, if you have the
time for this. And next, reheat it very well, not all at once nor
with a large fire, but little by little, otherwise it crumbles &
always has some fault. Finally, you ought to cast copper or
latten or other great metals very hot &, if it is
possible, in large quantities of substance, which contain more heat than
small quantities. It is necessary that the frame be cold, &
that you cast all at once. Always lute the entrance of your
frame, for the metal, touching iron or
metal,
This bone wants to be well pestled in a mortar and does
not want be reheated because it crumbles.
becomes porous. Most importantly, make it so that the cast is always
higher than the molded thing, because usually the sand, being reheated,
swells & if thepar ce in the middle,
& in this way, the molded thing remaining higher than the cast, the
metal cannot run into it easily or enter at all. Also, make sure
that the mold & the cast are well reheated. Cast also all
at once & out of the wind. And if your medal is really
thin, put a card or two or three thicknesses of
paper underneath, when you want to mold it. In
this way the mold will be lower than the cast. Cast also at the
place where your medal will be more es the least
thick & where there will be less relief.
Excellent sand for lead, tin, and
copperDSince then, I have molded with burnt bone, iron dross
& burned felt, thoroughly pulverized & ground finely on
marble and well mixed together. I moistened them very
well with beaten glair of egg. And having covered the medal with it,
as in the others, then filled the frame with sand from the
mine, I knocked moderately. I found it to be of very good
release & molded very neatly. I let it sit an entire night. The next morning, I reheated
it little by little, over the course of seven or eight
hours(for if possible, no humidity ought to
remain in the frame). I cast twice in copper
alloyed with ☾, as old
K. The substance
turned out very beautiful, shiny & sonorous, & without a
crust, and my sand was not corrupted at all. Since then, I
have cast with it several casts of soft lead & tin
that came out better & more neatly than any other that I have ever
found.When you mold, make certain lines around your mold, in the
frame, in order to attract the substance to all sides, in this
way.Potin of syringe & other
co works runs even better than fine latten.
But I think that it is better halfcopper &
halflatten, which have been used & have been in
very thin works, such as skillets & other similar things. I have
seen this mixture of half and half come out well.
To mold well, one ought to cast in a big frame several
medals together, for when there is a lot of substance & the
crucible is almost full, it heats more, & then, if one
medal does not come out well, the other will be good.It is better to melt in a bellows furnace than in a
four à vent, because it gives a more vigorous heat. It
is true that latten melts well in the four à
vent, because it is easier to melt than copper, being
more brittle.Some of the founders have this superstition,
that only three days a week are good for melting, namely
Tuesdays, WednesdaysThursdays, and Saturdays. The others, for them,
are unlucky.When you mold, do not knock excessively on the medal, which is in
the sand, because it prevents it from releasing very neatly &
shakes loose the mold.Take heed also that the sand does not surpass the edges of the
frame, for it makes the molded medal higher than the cast,
& in this way, metal will never enter the mold. Therefore,
always make sure that the surface of your cast object surpasses the mold in a straight line, and to do this, if it seems good to you, put a
piece of carton of whatever thickness you
please.Founders, in order to prevent their large cast
works from becoming porous, are careful to reheat their molds very well. And
to know if they have been reheated sufficiently, they knock against it with
their finger, & if they start to ring like a pot,
then they are sufficiently reheated.To cast their cannons neatly, they mix their earth
with some fine casting sand, if they can find any.
Sand from ThoulouseThe usual bo good one is the one which is
found in a vineyard near Puy David, but the one
which is most excellent is the one is from the Touch, near
Sainct Michel & toward Blagnac, in a
vineyard that is quite high up. The latter is thinner
& a little fatter than the other, & better for small works. It
does not want to be reheated too much.
Sand, slate, and burned earthThoroughly burnt sand loses its bond. Slate is reheated & molds
neatly. Next, it is true that it often becomes porous, as burned
earth also does, as fatty sand also does.
I find that one ought not to knock on very finely ground sands, for it
shakes them loose & make prevents them from releasing
neatly. But one ought to press hard and moisten them sufficiently.
MagistraFounders take the roots of a young elm
when it is in sap & boil it in wine, or better yet
vinegar, and keep it all year long in a
barrel.
Sand of the mine of ThoulouseCasting sand coming from the mine, once passed through a
double sieve, next put in with melted resin, burns &
inflames & becomes all red & inflamed like iron. Once
cold, it is completely black and can be ground very finely on
porphyry. Having prepared it thus & rendered it
without asperity on the fingernail, I moistened it
with beaten glair of egg & beat it well, until it was not pasty
but rather powdery. I found it of very good release, & molded with
it in lead & tin very neatly, but it wants to be well
reheated & at ease.Others beat it well in a mortar, in small amounts at a
time, & thus it is pressed together and rendered very fine. Then
they reheat it moderately, only to dry it. Next, they grind it dry on
porphyry. And thus it becomes as if impalpable and not
too dried out, it and it retains the body & the bond of the
earth to which it is kin and is better than when it is so
burnt. Once moistened with glair of egg passed through a
sponge, it releases very neatly M very
neatly in low relief, but not for figures in high relief. Therefore,
since then, I have experimented lexper with
moistening it only with very strong vinegar. It released a
figure which I could not release previously. And I believe that,
moistening the finest in a fashion as with glair, & the
coarsest, for filling, with gushes of salt water or
wine, that they do not join so well. But as they are of one
nature & are moistened the same, they embrace each other & hold
together one with the other.To mold well, after having prepared your sands, mold in
a day. Slowly reheat them the next day, then cast them
on another.
One ought to choose the one which is as in clods
& lumps, well deep in the earth, for usually the one that
is found higher up is too much a kin of the earth, and the lower is a kin of the rock.
I have molded it from pure lead cast very neatlyhot, & I had as an example the very neat principal, but the
vinegar hardly gives it any bond, & thus it sustained only
one cast.
rm
OsierIt can be planted, like the bramble, on both sides, &
those who plant the large feet against a slope say that it makes a
larger stump. But it only has a point at the top, for it grows
higher.
MortarsFine copper mortars do not throw fire, as long as
the iron pestle is not tempered. The
metal mortar does the same, because it is
sour. One makes, for this purpose, the bottom of large mortars
from fine copper.
VarnishTurpentine oil, turpentine & good eau-de-vie
to render it desiccative. Heat it without mixing on the chafing
dish, so that it mixes pu by itself when
melting. Next, test on a very clean knife, & you will know
then if it has enough body & if it does not run too much.
Grafting
One finds by experience that the graft that est
has its entrance into the incision on the sunny side takes very rarely
when it is also bent.
BakerDust keeps wheat from becoming infested with weevils. And to clean
it well when it is stained & as if rusty, pass ashes through
the sieve & mix them with the wheat, then
boult the whole with a boulting cloth of rough cloth or
canvas. The ashes will pass through & your
wheat will stay yellow, clean & very
beautiful.
Looking-glass tinIt makes the substance whiter.
Sand from pulverized rock salt and sand from the
mine finely ground on marbleThe one and the other, once very finely ground on
marble, after having thoroughly pestled them dry & beaten
in the mortar, I mixed as much of one as the other, and having
reworked them together on porphyry & passed them
through a double sieve or through the sleeve of a
shirt to mixs them even better, I put them in paper
& put them on a marble in a cellar. In
one night, they had been moistened enough by
themselves without dampening them further, because rock salt, like
all other salts, dissolves in the damp. I molded very
neatly with it, because both were very finely ground. They want to be
f humid enough to release well.
Mineral sandIt does not matter if the color is white or yellow. Above all it
must be in one piece & as if taken from a quarry or
rock formation, & the deeper one takes it from, the
better. The signs of its goodness are that it is thus amassed, and that
when removing itself in the form of rock, it comes out in lumps &
qu bricks, which demonstrate its bond & that it
is not too lean.However, it should break apart between your
hands & have very small
men & delicate grains & of the same nature.
If it is not delicate enough, you can pass & grind it finely, either
through water or through a sieve& when
it or on the porphyry, & in this way, from
sil lean they become fatty & well bound. You
can mold with it in saframe or
en noyau without cloth waste, & try it with
lead, for if with this it does not become porous & casts
neatly, it will also behave well with copper. Some say that the
fatty sands do not want the metal to be cast too hot.
Artisans who work in large works &, who for profit, do not
need to grind & seek the curiosities of artificial sands,
benefit more from seeking some that is ready-made by nature, which has the
finest grain possible, & for small works, they only pass it
through a sieve. But those who work in small works, finely
grind it & grind it impalpable, because they do not need a lot of
it.Orberé grain makes a tawny powder, very
delicate & very soft, which, once mixed, could mix mold
very neatly. Trywheat flour burned over a closed
fire.
Sand of burnt ox bones and rock saltI have pulverized them separately & finely ground them on
porphyry, as much as I could. Then I mixed as much
of one as the other & reworked them on
porphyry. Next, I moistened it in paper,
folded in a wet napkin, which is previously made in the
serain of the night or in the
moisture of the cellar. And I have not found anything else
which releases more neatly than this one. It wants to be rather humid.
And if you want to cast very thin, make sure it is very hot. It came out
very neatly in soft tin, like the principal, and withstood
several casts. For tin, I believe that it is not necessary to
seek a better one, nor for fine lead either, which comes out almost
as neatly as tin. Tou The bone of the foot
of oxen is always so lean on its own that, without being
mixed with one or two parts of some fatty sand & one that has bond,
such as tripoli, salts, felt, ashes &
similar things, it would not release & would not mold neatly, for it
crumbles.
Reheating or drying a molded frameAlways put the most delicate part, such as the face, above, so that
nothing falls in it that could hinder your fusion.
Natural sandIt does not want to be reheated for lead and tin,
m and is better very new & fresh.
Sal ammoniac and alabasterSal ammoniac, well pulverizedmou &
ground dry on marble, molds very neatly & is of a very beautiful release, & once mixed with alabaster, pulverized
similarly, ii ℥ per lb of
alabaster makes it release well. It suffices to moisten it in
a cave or in the serain or, to
be done more quickly, in a piece of paper between a wet
napkin. Take heed that it does not stay for too long, for it
would become so wet that it would not be good for molding
in a frame, but rather en noyau, in which you will be
able to use it well as long as it dries well at ease & far from the
fire. Otherwise the heat makes it swell & pushes the salt onto
the surface, which renders it lumpy. You can in anoint the
medal with spike lavender oil, molding
en noyau. It is better to put in 4 ℥ of
sal ammoniac per lb, and moisten it in a damp
place for two or three days, & so that
when you take fistfuls, it holds together, without, however,
attaching itself & being pasted to your hand. You
will mold very neatly with it. But let it dry & reheat very thoroughly,
leaving the mold inside so that it acquires strength by
reheating, for it becomes hard as stone &, in this way, is
more certain to release well. Otherwise if you release before having
reheated it, there would be danger of it crumbling in some place
because of its delicateness & fineness, even if the medal has a high
relief. Once you have molded with it, pulverize it as before and put it
back in the damp.
All sand that releases well has body & gives a good hold. Ammoniac
is fatty and a va is nevertheless sandy,
which makes it release well. There is no better bond than salts
appropriate for metals, for once mixed in powder, they get moistened
together & dry & reheat together.
Glassmakers’ white sand from the
mine, mixed with sal ammoniacThere is found in Cominge, near the town of
Aurignac, a sand white mai like
salt and lean, that glassmakers &
potters use, which becomes impalpable ground on
porphyry & is easy to grind. And once ground, it
resembles calcined alabaster. It molds very neatly, and I have
not found any that molds as delicately as this one for lowf relief. It is
excellent to molden noyau without a frame, having ground it
impalpable with gummed or pure water on porphyry,
then placing it, thick as mustard or a little more, on the medal,
anointed lightly with oil either of olive, walnut, or even
better spike lavender. But to do it better
mo, let it dry by itself, without fire, for one or
two days. Although, if you are in a hurry, you can
heat it well, & it will not crack if it is not put on too lightly.
It is true, being thus suddenly exposed to heat all at once, it makes
some holes & pustules, which it does not do when dried in the cold or
at ease rather than being reheated. Once dry, reheat it & it will
withstand several casts.
Sal ammoniac and iron drossI have pulverized sal ammoniac, dried well in the fire &
in a hot bronze mortar, and passed it through the
double sieve; it became very fine. But to render it even more
delicate, I have ground it dry on porphyry. Then, I mixed
it with pulverized & finely ground iron dross, in the same
way, and both mold very neatly things in low relief without being
moistened in the serain, or in the
cellar, or otherwise with the napkin, & it
releases very neatly.
SandMolders from Foix who cast theireu
medals crosswise, use crocum ferri
and calcined slate. It is for very flat things.
That any sand can be rendered good
Artisans who work in large works & who need to further
their profit by seeking things already prepared in nature, because she
does not sell her wares to her children, and to also save the time they would
use for grinding finely & for artificially preparing sands, seek
the one of the smines,
which is not too fatty, the one that is a kin of earth, not too lean &
consequently without bond, but rather that which is pulled from the
depths of the sand-bed in bricks & clods that show
its natural compaction, which is quite difficult to break & which
has a very small & delicate grain, & which is found soft
when handling it between the fingers. And
because the latter is only found near the rocks in mountainous
areas or lean territories, & akin to the
arene, it cannot be found inin the
surroundings of all the bonnes villes where
artisans willingly gather. And thus, if they do
not have it close to their house, they prefer to have it come
from afar, like from Lyon, Venice, Paris near the
Sainct Chappelle & similar places, rather than prepare it.
However, you can be certain that in all places you can render the
sand from a mine
good & proper for molding. For if it is coarse, pass it through a
sieve, and if it is not yet fine enough, wash it, & when
the water has rested a little, empty that which is still
troubled in some separate vessel. The coarse will promptly
fall down to the bottom of the first vessel, but the one which
will have come from the troubled water, set apart, having
settled, will be very fine. And then, if it does not have enough
bond, grind it quite dry on porphyry, & you will
render it impalpable, & which will have bond like chalk.
Then, if it seems right to you, you will reheat it & again will grind it & mix it with salts, or linen, or burnt
felt, or ashes of paper & similarly washed things.
Terre fondue of pottersGrind it in a mortarmustard
mill with some water & render it impalpable,
dry it & next moisten it with salt water, which gives
strength to u all sands to withstand several
casts.
Orange treesIn Italy, those who are in the colder regions, like
Lombardy, make square wooden cases, a little larger at
the bottom than at the top, and affix buckles on its
sides for transporting them with straps, as one carries gout
sufferers, because the wheels with which one could make them roll spoil
the pathways of the gardens. And every two
years, they do not forget to open the sides of the
cases for trimming & dexterously cutting, with the soil,
the ends of the orange tree’s roots, because otherwise, as they
find the wood, they contract & fold back on themselves & dry at
the tips & would make the tree die. But as they are trimmed, it
preserves for them new space cosfor expanding,
without finding resistance from the wood that hinders them. And know
that, for this effect, it would be better to join the sides of the
cases with screws & not with nails, in
order to not shake the soil when one opens them.
Grafting
With any tree that has coarser marrow, the graft is awkward
to estre cut well, because there is a
danger of wounding the marrow, & if it is wounded at the point of
juncture, it takes uneasily, like from the vine, from all
peaches & apricots.Apricot trees have a very thin bark, & thus one needs
to graft them onto young trees which do not yet have thick bark, like on
shoots of prune trees & almond trees.The grafts scarcely take if the cut of the tree is
damp. One needs then to graft in serain & mild
weather, & not too cold & windy.Old wood that one leaves to the graft is necessary if one grafts on a
tree that is already made & of good size, because being such, it
tightens the graft more, & if it is from young wood, it is so
compressed that it cannot profit. But old wood resists the compression
of old wood than the young better, because it is harder than
the young. But if the graft is all of old wood, it will never hold
beautifully, but turns fragile & short & slow to
grow.
Molding with cuttlefish boneGuard against keeping them in a damp place, for they are
very prone to getting moist. If your medal is small, cut the bone
in two, then even it out with a knife. And on a hooked
rooftile, quite dry & quite smoothed & covered with
pulverized willow charcoal, rub & smooth the two
halves of the bones. Thus they imbibe this willow
charcoal, which makes them release well & guards against removing
anything. Then, on a counter bone, that is to say a piece of
brick evened to the size of your bone, place
your medal, & then on this one, place the bone,
& press well with some other piece of the same size on the top. And for
the second time, mold it, but before, pounce on top with
willow charcoal & blow lightly, then press as before,
and it will come out neatly. If it is for a spoon handle, one needs two
whole bones. All cast work is brittle & subject to
breaking, because the metal expands when cast, & retracts
& condenses under the hammer. That is why one ought to
retrace the cast thing with a chisel, & in this way the
metal retracts. Let it thus escrouir. If the piece
for molding is of high relief, first trace the mold & hollow it
with a penknife to make way for the medal, & then
mold. And if the medal has two sidesBefore casting, heat the
bones in order to make them lose only the coldness &
dampness.When the lead gets too hot, it
calcines.
since the two bones are joined,
co cut them evenly all around, & make notches
e around it in different places which cross over the
join of the two bones, in order to recognize well the
place of the first join. Or else, with little shards of
wood, pierce them, or ma coat the
joins with some clay, & dry. Press, between them
your hands joined between your two knees
& not with a press, because the bones would
crack. Mold also at your leisure & two or three times, until you see
that it is pressed quite tightly together & well imprinted. And each
time before replacing the piece, pounce with some
willow charcoal, for it makes it release well. When you
have cast, rub the medal with oil & with willow
charcoal powder & with a brush, to make it dull. Take care that your medal is not too greasy or oily when you mold in
cuttlefish bone. When you have cast, leave it
to cool before taking the medal out, for when one takes it out hot, it
brings with it some bone. And cast moderately hot,
which you will know when the bone is about to change
its good whiteness. But when it is too hot, it turns
the bone very red. The proportion of lead
& tin is as much of one as of the other. If the piece is difficult
to come out & of several pieces, make the gate forked with three or
four grooves, andmake & direct these grooves to the
place of the thicker parts. Also make these grooves around the medal, like straight on the heads, for this attracts the metal & feeds
the figure better. Shake your frame a little when you have cast,
and thus you will make very neatly several casts. Tin that is too
hot pburns the bone, which is corrupted. Also, once taken
out du mo hot from the mold, it risks
breaking.
Sand Mixture easy to melt
One ℥departsoft tin, one partfine lead, one partlooking-glass tin & one partfixed quicksilver makes an alloy & a
solder so easy to melt that it can easily be melted in a
dish of fine tin.
Molding hollow on one side and in relief on the other
And for this effect, one casts a medal of fine tin, which is
harder to melt. And since it is neat, one molds with it. And one leaves
it in one half of the frame & presses it a little so that
it holds better. And next, you will cast in your frame some
solder described above, or another more meltable than fine
tin. And thus, the second medal will melt & mold itself on the
first one without spoiling it. But to make sure this is done right, mix
some lamp black with water &, with a
paintbrush, give a light coat of this to the medal, which
remains in the frame, & leave to dry. Thus it will not
melt.But if you have a medal of copper or silver, you can
leave it in the cast if you want to cast with lead or
tin. But it is necessary that it be a little hot, for the cold
would make the tin contract.Tin wants to be cast quite hot to come out neat.Soft tin, which is the best for the cast, is the
one that, once cast in grille, is burnished
& shiny & polished like a mirror, & appears to have
been burnished. And does not have holes like the one that is brittle &
that is not shiny as if burnished.
PotinPotin, being cast hot, runs & flows like tin. But
the medal becomes whitish from this, and immediately casts out the
verd, which a good material does not
do.
Molding statues
Halffounder’s earth which
founders use & halfclay earthg renders very neatly.
Sand from rivertellins and
musselsThe long shells that one finds in fresh
water rivers, once calcined, make an impalpable white sand, which
molds very neatly.
Congealing mercuryIt congeals, just as I tried, by boiling it one or two
hours in a rather large iron pot,
putting in, for an ℥ of
☿, ii ℥ of
verdetde and vitriol of
saltpeter, ana, with sufficient quantity of old
water from farriers.Or else, melt 4 ℥ of tin, & as
it cools, purify it of its filth, which is on top, then, make a
hole in it & put in this i ℥ of
☿ & it will come out like tin if you
remelt it, but it will be breakable. And if you want to assay if it is
tin or ☿, redden a shovel &
put a small piece of your ingot on top. If it is tin, it will melt
& stay, but if it is ☿, will quickly melt,
then, crackling quite strongly, it will evaporate. One ought to congeal it in
a spoon or in a hollow crucible & make a
moderately sized hole.It can also be congealed, as I assayed, in aquafortis which beforehand will have eaten a little silver.
This one, mixed, makes tin & lead run.
Mixture
Fine tin, congealed mercury with the smell of
tin, looking-glass tin, fine lead, as much of
one as the other, makes a substance that melts very promptly but is
breakable & white. I think that it would be good for solder.
A long time to cool.
OlivesThey are spoiled if once a month one does not
refresh their salt water, which one ought not to touch
with the hands, for this makes them spoil.
Observation from rusticsThat when it freezes on Palm Sunday, it
freezesall the months of the year.That when the first flowers fall les suiv &
are lost from the frost, the others are usually lost
also.
Grafts
It is necessary that the graft be not from old wood, for it is never
a beautiful tree.One needs to leave only two shoots at maximum on the graft, for when
it has more, its strength is weakened. The wind torments it, & it
does not have enough strength to bud.Trees which have coarse marrow, like peach trees & all
their kind & plum trees, do not want grafts in
freezing weather because the cold damages their marrow, which one
also needs to protect from wounding by cutting the foot of the
graft.All grafts must not be made earlier than their tree is sapping,
for the humor grows them quickly. Otherwise
au, they dry before the humor of
the sap pushes them.
SandThe white ash of all woods, which still sticks to the
wood that burns, and which has not fallen into the
bohearth, molds very
neatly.
SandAshesWell pulverized tallow molds &
releases very neatly. The one from the kitchens, which is fatty
& shiny, from the big kitchens, is better.Finely pulverized quicklime works. The same for broken-up
flint, which works better in the cavity.
Faces in distemperBecause colors in distemper dry promptly & one would not
have leisure to perfect the shadows & touches on the face, one wets
the reverse of the face which is on canvas with a wet
sponge. Then, with a small paintbrush, one makes
the shadows, which do not come undone. Next, one lays the flesh color,
which does not prevent the already painted shadows from appearing. And
again with a more lively flesh color, one touches the more prominent
areas. And with another paintbrush, one does the shadows
again by hatching. The shadow strokes do not come undone
because they are made of bistre, which stains the canvas
like rust. The said bistre is good with for
making shadows in distempermix, for in oil it
has no body & would not dry but with great difficulty. One mixes in
the said bistre, for shadow, ocre de ru & a
little sap green. The best bistre is the greasy &
shiny kind from the fireplaces of large kitchens. It is
difficult to grind & screeches on the marble.
AzureAzur d’esmail always wants to be cleaned, because the
filth that can be perceived in the wash water makes it die. One needs
to layer it two times, & the first very thick, moving the
paintbrush by layering it first lengthwise then across.
It is better used on canvas, where it is imbibed
immediately, than on wood. Varnish returns it to its
vigor, because being imbibed, it becomes dark. To try it,
painters bring their palette to the
grocers, & temper & alloy it with a little white
ground in oil, for in this way, the beautiful shows its
turquine vivacity, but the bad is lavender grey. The most
delicate is the best for working. It is thinned working by
washing it.
Violet and lakeIt is made of azure & lake, which is also assayed
on the palette with white. The one is deemed beautiful that, on a polished knife or on glass,
givesu a
clear red color of red rose, tending a little toward violet.
The one that is blac dark red is not as pleasant.
FurbisherThe parts of a sword are the rivet,
the tail of the sword, what comes next is the ricasso, the rest is
the cblade. The sides are the edge
& the point. Some blades have a sharp ridger,
which has one single elevated ridge in the middle & along the whole
length, and are easy to break. The other
blades are called of three edges or three slopes, which do have
a rise in the middle, but it is flat as if it were a sharp ridge, but
flattened, and s these
ones are the safest. The others are are called fluted, which
are notched in the middle, & when it is
along the whole length, they are just as easy to break as those with
sharp ridges & are more troublesome to furbish because the
fustée cannot get in. But one makes one in particular which is
narrow.Of the guard of the sword are the
pommel, the branches of the guard & the
pontet, which is this
iron strip which closes off the branch which is at the end of the
ricasso to stop thrusts from sliding into the guard. The
rings are these two branches in
half-round which start from the eye of the
guard up to the branch of the pontet. The branch that crosses
the guard is called the body. And this
quillon block, by which the sword
tail enters and to which all the branches
return & are held, is called the eye of the guard.Then follows the wood of the grip, which one glues, or
according to the most competent, with gummed wax, which is of
wax & pitch, because rosin would be too hard.
They heat it lightly, then rub the wood of the grip with it in
order that the tang or the thread takes hold there. Otherwise, if a
thread were to come loose, it would all d
break immediately. On iron wire or dog
skin, one also puts glue on
it. The garnishment of which is put on the woodof, which is of silk or thread, is called the
cord, which is made from two thr or three
threadsturned twisted on the spinning wheel,
or 4 if the silk is thin. The slightly thicker cord holds better.
The binding, which is also made of silk at both ends of the
handle, are called the
buttons.Some grips are made of silk, dogfish
skin, annealed iron wire,
threads of gold & of fine & false silver & of
velvet. Iron wire has a lower price & is the most
durable. Next is the grip of silk, if one does not have the
convenience of being close to the sea to procure some
dog skin, which is quite
convenient. To The beautiful skin costs fifty or lx
sous & 4 or five dozen grips are
made from it. This kind gives a good grip even if the hand is
sweating. To work it, if it is too hard, one soaks it for one
or two hours in not quite lukewarm
aquafortis, for if it were too hot, it would cook & spoil the
skin. It is sewn with black thread.
The gold grips are made by putting underneath thin yellow
canvas or a different canvas yellowed with chalk. And this
canvas is set with glue or the aforesaid gum, this
is in order that the thread holds better on it. These are made of
cords like the silk ones, & between two cords one sets one or
two threads to make it show up better. The silver kind is
made similarly, and there is not as much trouble as with silk,
and even less because it takes more to twist silk, because one
needs to twist it twice. A grip of fine gold is worth 18 or 20
sous.The best sword point is the sage leaf form.This long plank on which the sword is attached & laid down to
furbish it is called the
chameau, it is
commonly of rowan, which is
hard & even.The lower stick, which is folded like a bow, is called the
arson.The upper is called the stick of the
fustée.And this small square piece, which is put
lon the sword to burnish it, is called the
fustée.There are two horns: one is called the oil horn and
the other the emery horn.There is an iron which is made like a halberd point,
square, & of very even steel, & well filed,
which is called the
grateau, which
serves to to soften the traces of the
file on sword guards & to give an edge to swords after they
have been ground, which is better than with a stone or a
sharpening stone, which quite often makes scratches.To make coupp swords cut better, one gives them
the edge by pulling upward from the point.Those who create sword guards are artisans
separate from the furbisher. A is the
bruisson
B is the bloodstoneThe fustée is a square piece of wood
three fingers in thickness, of
boxwood, which is fitted in the middle of the stick
of the fustée to furbish.The fresil stick is of willow
wood, which is to clean the rust off weapons with
fresil, which is the iron scale falling
at the farriers’ forge.
The furbisher buys his blades by the dozen, which
are not fully drawn by the tang because he does this himself to adjust
them well to the l pommel & guards.Spanish ones are deemed better for being of better steel
& iron, but they are not as well-forged as swords from
Vienne in proDauphiné. The
Spanish ones are not as well ground coming from the
forge, because they grind them with the
foot, & this is what
makes them wavy.Blades from Vienne commonly cost xviii or 19
lb a dozen.The first thing the furbisher does when he gets his new
blades is to draw out their tang, which he does himself or has done by
locksmiths or farriers, giving him some
liard for his charcoal. Next, they
pass it over a grindstone to make it
cut, then lay it down on the
chameau, and with some pulverized
emery, fine & soft as flour, & mixed with oil
to make it hold, they furbish the sword with the stick used to
remove the traces of the grindstone, and then the
clean the swordpowell with the
emery and give it a drop or two of oil, which
they spread with the finger to give it luster. Having
put the oil, they furbish the sword again on the
chameau with the
felin, which is a
thunderstone mounted in the middle of a stick like the
fustée, and this stick is called the baton à
felinder. Next, having passed it on the
felin, they furbish it with chalk &
the oil which is on the sword. Next, they wipe it & go over
it again, & furbish with dry chalk. And at the end, when they
are ready mounted, one gives them the edge with the
gratteau.AiOnce furbished, one mounts it on the guards which one presents to
know if they are quite suitable. And taking hold of a blade such that
the whole ricasso is held in the hand, one conjectures
that it will be just as heavy once mounted.One puts the blade in a vise between two pieces of
wood, then with a file, they enlarge the opening of the
guard if it is necessary. Then, to rivet it,
one places on the riveta piece of
& the pommel a piece of wood, & with a hammer,
one beats on it to align & secure the pommel well. Then, with the
hammer, one finishes the rivet when the pommel is well secured
& does not wobble. The wood is put there so as not to spoil
the pommel. Next, one finishes the rivet with a file or
chisel. And some make the b the rivet in a
square diamond-shape, but it is not as good
as the round one, for, when faceted, the rivet breaks.
The end is bought ready-made by the
dozen, which costs six sous for
the small ones, but for the the big ones 2
carolus. The end this is put either
with nails, which are put on the sides of the cutting edge, but
this only spoils the sword & destroys the scabbard because the
water enters through the joint of the nail. It is best to
apply some rosin or glue on it, but rosin is better.
And it is best when the end is well adjusted & set so hot that the
pulverized rosin melts on the end. In this way, it does not fall
and cannot be undone unless it is put in the fire.Guards are of several kinds:
Worked
Guttered, which is with round moldingsPearled
Scarfed, when the bands are crosswise
Onioned, which is with a flat head
In the King’s manner, which are plainThe furbishers buy them by dozens, the
dozen of plain ones commonly costs x lb. The
worked piece, 30 sous or depending on its
fashion.The first thing the apprentice does is to furbish as
said.And next, to garnish the sword & make a scabbard, which is the
height of the art.They buy the wood pieces of
beech wood for scabbards which are ready made, a hundred for xv or xx or 30
sous, depending on the distance from the place
where they are made.These wood pieces are thus called
estelles, and have to be
very neat & without any knots & are one finger’s
thickness across.Then the furbisher puts them on a small bench, called a
scabbard bench, and with a egplanesmall iron
tool similar to that of the joiners’ bench,
they make it hold firmly. Then, with aeplaneplane which is like a knife with two
handles, one works the wood
roughly from the top, next one passes the joiner’s
plane on it the better to even it. Next, one scours it on the
inside with a
round plane, also mounted with two handles, then with a
small narrow plane, one hollows & scrapes it half a
foot toward the end of the
talan, and the shorter the better.
Without this scraping, the sword would always cut the scabbard.
The opening of the scabbard is called the mouth, & on top is the
shape of the blade.
The stop, which is a leather rim set on the edge of the blade
shape, is made to stop the hangers.
When the estelles are well levelled, one lays the sword on top,
& with a black stone, one marks the width of the
blade & the length, & then with a chisel, one cuts the
excess. And one passes a joiner’s plane to even it
well, according to the mark.
Next, one glues the two estoilles edge to edge and all
around, only as far as the shape of the blade extends & not
elsewhere. And this is to make the leather or velvet of
the scabbard hold.
Then one puts the sword into the estelles. And precisely thus,
they set it in the scabbard, which is all sewn, and rub what is
glued along the shape of the blade
with tallow to make it run into the scabbard.
The scabbard is made of calf or sheep leather,
the calf ones are all in one piece, but not the sheep
ones. But, when the swords are long, one makes them in pieces which are
sewn between leather & flesh, & then they rub the
stitching thoroughly with a piece of boxwood to
cover & even it. From a good calf skin, viii or 9 or
x scabbards can be taken. A
workman can easily make vi a day. If they
are too thick, one thins them a little with a plane. If the
skin is hard, one wets it in lightly lukewarm water, and
one does not leave it there for long. Next, the same
worker who made the wood piece has to adjust the
scabbard to be well made. It is true that for common people,
one may well get ones which are ready made, but they are never carried
as well. When the scabbard is made & sewn with black thread,
one rubs it with a piece of boxwood or with a
cloth, having daubed it a little in oil. The scabbard of
a good cow is better than any and also costs more, except the
velvet kind. Under the velvet, one commonly puts plain
canvas or a sheep scabbard or a parchment cover. But
the best scabbard of all is a waxed scabbard, of either
velvet or calf. It is because one covers the wood
with thin canvas, which one next waxes, then one covers it
in velvet or calf. A waxed scabbard is worth at
least xxx sous, a cow one xx
sous.From a sheep skin, v or vi.
Grey guards
Once they are white, one only needs to clean we them
well, then put them in the fire, & make them pass to blue. And one
needs to take good care that they do not pass too far beyond blue, for
neither gold nor silver nor any color would take on it. To do this,
which is called making them pass, one takes
a cauldron full of ashes, which one covers with
thoroughly lit charcoal, & thus one heats them quite strongly for an
hour or two, and when the ashes are very hot,
one pulls the charcoal to one side & one puts the guard where the
charcoal was, & one covers it completely with ashes. And when
the body of the guard, which is the main thing, is completely passed,
one rotates the guard onto the other side, and in this manner, the grey
cannot pass too much, unless some hot charcoal touches it. The
grey can be done well in the ordinary fire in the
fireplace, but there is a danger that it may pass too much &
produce filth, which will prevent it from taking color. Blue is
obtained as soon as the ash has heated the guards a little, but
it is still grey in some places. After blue comes grey.
Color of water
For the color of water, one passes a soft file
on the guards to whiten them, then the burnisher. Next, one
makes them pass to blue until they turn grey. Next, when they are still
moderately hot, one passes the bloodstone over them, and when
they cool, one turns them to reheat them, for the color of water is made
only in several passes. And if the guards were not warm, the
bloodstone would scrape & undo the color. One needs to take
heed that the guards do not pass too far beyond grey, for they would throw
off filth that would prevent the color from taking. One needs almost one
day for preparing, softening & setting the
color of water, but as they pass a little beyond blue, it is enough for
grey & another color. Grey is the lesser color after varnish,
which is of two colors, either yellow or black.
Yellow varnishOne whitens very strongly & one cleans the guards well. Next,
one applies walnutolive oil all
over them with a feather while they are cold, and next turns them over a good charcoal fire that is on the
furbishers’ furnace, without them touching the
charcoal or the ash. And when they do not smoke anymore,
it is done.
Black varnishIt is said, at the beginning of the book
where you can see it, that it is made with galipot.
GildingOne prepares the guards thoroughly with a soft, very soft, file such that there is nothing black left on any of the guards, and next heats them,
& passes them as is said. But to gild
& gild with silver, they ought not to pass more than a little
beyond blue. Then, while the guards are hot, one attaches them to a vise,
& with some tweezers, one layers the gold, & one
sets it with bloodstone that is quite clean & rubbed with
putty. And when the guards are cold, one reheats them,
then one layers the gold as above. And first, one gives
of two layers, until the entire guard is well-garnished. And
next, one reheats as at the beginning, & one gives the third covering
of gold. Then, one burnishes very thoroughly & with great
force with a large bloodstone. And But note that
to burnish well, the guard always needs to be warm. And to
know this, one smells it & brings it close to the
nose. For one ought not to touch it with the
fingers, but one holds it on lifts it from on top of
the warm ashes with a small iron rod, which has
been purposely made to go into the eye of the guard. And when it is
completely well-burnished, one rubs it very well with a white
linen cloth, and the gold needs to be thicker &
stronger than for painters. A quarteron is worth
fifty or lx sous.
Gilding with silverOne needs to prepare the guards & whiten them with a
lifile, a little coarser
for than for gold. And one makes them pass beyond
grey, as for gilding. And when they are hot, one needs to double the
silver foil, then separate it with a knife; next, apply
it to the guard with a smalltweezers
& a small burnisher. And then, reheat & apply until they
are all gilt with silver. Next, one needs to cover them for the
third time with the doubled foil, as has been said, then burnish them
very well & with force, not with the bloodstone but with a
strong burnisher. Just as the burnisher ought not to
burnish gold.
Mastic varnish dry in a half
hour
Some take 2 ℥ of mastic, a half ℥ of turpentine, & a half ℥ of
turpentine oil, & eau-de-vie, a little at your discretion
because it evaporates when heated & nonetheless makes the varnish more desiccative. But I made
it thus: I take turpentine oil at discretion & put in a good
bit of turpentine, because it remains always moist & attaches
itself if one puts in too much, & eau-de-vie, & heat in a
varnished bowl the said oil, & when it begins to be
very hot, I put in some subtly ground mastic & around
one-third of the oil passed through a sievel, and let reheat until it is melted, which will be soon on
hot ashes. Once all melted, try it on the knife, and if
you see that it has too much body, add in a little turpentine
oil, and if it does not have enough, add in mastic, and thus
it will be done. And keep it well covered so that no filth gets in. When
you want to make it, be careful to sort & choose the mastic
that is white & purified of any dirt & dust & black dross.
And when you wash it & dry it to render it very white & clean,
it will be even better. For if you do not purge it well, these
straws & marks, pulverized into it, will remain
within the varnish, & when you set it on white or flesh color,
it will seem that they are fleas & blemishes. Once well
chosen, pulverize it in a mortar and pass it through a very
fine sieve, and next mix it in oil, as is said. But if you
want to make it more carefully, extract a tear of mastic, as you
know, pulverize, pass, & mix, and you will have something very
singular for small works. Take heed when varnishing not to breathe on
it, for this will make the varnish whiten & take body.
It almost dries when working.
One knows that this varnish does not have body enough when it
does not take well on a panel in oil, for it is like water.
Therefore, add in pulverized mastic & heat until it is good.
This varnish is very white & beautiful, & does not go to
your head like that of spike lavender.
For some, instead of tourturpentine oil, put
spike lavender oil, which is not as good.
This varnish is laid down cold on the panel with a very clean
fingertip, & one needs to spread it
vigorously.
The Italians scarcely varnish their paintings because they layer
their paintings very thick, & they are a long time drying
on the inside, though on top they make a dry skin & crust.
One lays the varnish with a finger so as make a
lean layer, because when thick, it yellows.
Working on glass
It is a strange thing that the workers of this art cannot
work well if they do not have good breath, for if they have a
bad one, their work will break in the fire in reheating.
.
Varnish for lutes
They take a little turpentine, & oil of turpentine or
of spike lavender, & amber pulverized &
passed very subtly, & make like that of mastic, & add in a little dragon’s bloodto
color it and make it reddish,
and others some terra merita for yellow.
Borders of a gardenOne needs to work the earth, then make it thinner with the
rake. And next, if it is dry, one needs to moisten it. Then,
stretch the cord very close, and hit on the entire
length of the cordas with the back
of a pruning knife, in order that the cord
marks a straight line, the length of which you will un
bord make holes with an iron stake where you
will plant your rosemary. Behead & cut to measure, and
prune from the bottom up.
LocksmithTo tin nails well, and other work, they file their
work very neatly. Then to clean it well & rid it of grease, they
make it boil in vinegar, then they wipe it well with a
linen cloth. Next, they heat it & pass some
rosin over the top, which coats it with a shiny skin like
varnish. This done, they melt some pure & fine tin in
their estamiere, which is a little square iron
box. And when the tin is well melted & moderately warm, they
throw in rosin to burn the filth, & then they let the
head of a nail or something similar soak a little, & having
remained there for seven or eight pauses, they take
it out and shake it, hitting the top with an iron to
make the tin that is superfluous fall off, & clean it with a
small stick wrapped in tow. And if it is not well
tinned, you will rub it hot with a piece of rosin & do
as before & let it cool. When the work cools, it becomes yellow,
which is a sign that the tin is the right temperature. But it
becomes blue if the tin is too hot. Things t
thus tinned are durable & are not undone like tinning done
in leaf, thus at the end of a year, they can be clarified
& renewed by heating & rubbing them.Leadsmiths say that making a lizard die in the
melted il destin makes the tinning
become very golden. Or else putting in sal ammoniac.
Small dogsSmall dogs who should be water-dogs are recognized by this, that
they have a larger muzzle than others.
Salted artichokesOne puts them whole & not too ripe in a firkin that one
fills with brine. Then, one serves them all
year among salads, raw with oil & vinegar,
for being thus prepared, they take long to cook. But take heed to test
your brine with an egg, for if it is good & strong
enough, the egg will float on top. If not, it is not strong
enough and would not preserve the fruits.
Trees
Which bear fruits quickly are aged and scarcely last.
BirdsWhich have been fed by the rod do not whistle among the
company of others if they are not in a separate cage. For teaching them to whistle well, one needs to take them from the nest before they can
see & cover them with down or a hare skin. Thus,
having not seen their father and known his voice, they better learn the whistle
that one teaches them.
Founding
The putty is made of burnt earth which has
served in the founding; this is earth bourre bolvene,
in which one has founded. One grinds it on a big
stone, & with this one makes the
cope of first coat of the cope of
bells, where there are letters & works, & le
only needs to be reheated in the flame of straw, and molds very
neatly.The earth which molds en noyau is subject to making
it porous, if you do not rub well with a brush or your
finger the piece to be molded, which should be well
oiled. And do it coat by coat, & not all at once.
Earth or sand moistened or ground with water wants
to be reheated more than sand.Latten from a candlestick is not pure, for one mixes in it
iron filings & potin.Latten wants to be cast hotter than copper, quod
non credo.To cast carefully, one ought not to take metals already
alloyed, but take them pure & mix them.Iron hardly agrees with being cast in a mixture of
copper or latten.It is better to mold all with one sand, be it in a frame or
noyau, rather than in various mixed ones.
One ought to reheat for one or two hourset
p, in thatacharcoal fire which
lights by itself, a crucible with the substance inside, and
then blow & cover the crucible with large charcoals
& the mouth of the furnace with bricks, and
let it consume two or three feedings of charcoal, which
se fill the furnace above the
crucible. At the end, stoke it to a violent fire, & when the
flame is very white & the substance is in a liquid
bath like water & casting off pale blue flames,
cast. The secret is to cast very hot & in one go.Lean white sand without bond renders quite
proper for casting, &, having body, if
you grind it very finely on porphyry or calcine it,
reddening it several times in the fire, & spread it in
vinegar or finely grind it with water, as you know. It
also molds very neatly en noyau, as I have experimented. But do
not moisten it with salt water if you want to promptly reheat it,
for salt boils on the fire & makes pustules, being pressed by
the fire. I believe that the noyaulx, gently reheated, would not
do this. I molded very neatly en noyau the substance of
skillets. White sandsmells like sulfur when
reheated, and I believe it would melt. And since the substance has been
cast in it, it acquires in the moldcomme a luster as if it were
leaded or vitrified. I believe that glassmakers could
use it.One needs very little sal ammoniac dissolved in
water.
Bell handles
They can be put back on without remaking the bell, which one ought to
put back in the pit & mold it there. But should you
solder a ref cracked bell, it is considered
impossible to give it its first voice.
Quince treesThey want to be pruned often, otherwise they die & do not bear
such beautiful fruit.
CannonsThey are very difficult to bore when they are of
metal because the substance is brittle & frangible. But one
z ought not to push the borer with too
great a force nor continue all in one push, but pull it out often. In
that case, one makes the touch-holemuzzle of the
cannon bigger than the ball in order to avoid the necessity of
boring, because the substance is cast & expands &
pushes the mold. If the borer, which should be neither like a swallow
tail nor a point but be cut in the round like a wimble, if it breaks, one ought not to leave it there to rust
+
+
but immediately take it out of the touch-hole. This
you will do by pouring a little oil on it; then,
l turn the place of the touch-hole downward &
strike the opposite side of the piece, & it will fall down. One
needs to bore gently & at ease when the piece is of
metal.
Bells
One does not make them in the pit if they do not fit.
Gilding your moldings for panels without
goldSome take orpiment in leaf form & pulverize it & make
moresque leaves & burnish it, and it is this
orpiment which is shiny like gold. However, ground
metals or ground cristallin or touchstone are
better.
Orpiment orange
One sublimates it & one grinds it, & some put in a little
arsenic to make it melt instead.
VarnishSome make the one of mastic with two ounces of
mastic and one of clear & white turpentine oil &
eau-de-vie as above. Heat it on ashes until it is melted,
then let it rest & put it in another vessel to purge it of
dregs.
Gold color
To quickly make a layer of or on
mat on canvas or other oil panel, one makes fatty
walnut oilin the sun or on the
fire, as said above, for it thickens by itself in this way,
although there is neither lead nor ceruse. And with this,
grind massicot, minium & other desiccatives,
not verdet nor orpiment, for they cause the
gold to die. It will be dry soon. However, if the
weather is not serain & dry, do not soften it,
for if the weather is damp & humid, it would
turn black.
Portraying from nature
One needs to carefully observe the eyes, the nose &
the beard, for these three things make strong resemblance.
GemstonesYou need to pestle your materials in a mortar of
thick glass & encased & stuck with mastic
into another mortar of wood, in order that it does not
break. This can serve for perfumers. & la
t the pestle, also of glass.Mortar of glass and
slab of glass for grinding
Vitrified saltpeter
Being melted with pebbles, it makes the glass very white.
But before, one needs to calcine it on a hot tile or shovel. And that which will remain from the vapor, mix it with as
much of the white calcined pebbles. It is true that, in the
little furnace, it does not clarify well. But for large panes of
glass, it makes the glass very clear & white &
clean.
Windows that the sun will not pass
Take the aforesaid calcined saltpeter & expose it to
a humid air or place, and it will convert itself into a
liquor which, if rubbed on both sides of the windows, the
sun will not pass through; rather, it will give shade. One
needs to put the saltpeter on some clean thingplace & it put glowing charcoals on it,
and continue all over until it no longer burns.
It also serves for melting & for adding to alkali salt
for cleaning hands.
GemstonesTake white pebbles that are found by the rivers &
among the sand bank & paths, which are
somewhat transparent, & if they are perfectly transparent it
will be better. If not, use the best & whitest that you can. Calcine
them three or 4 times in your four à vent, & extinguish
them in water or vinegar. Next, take a
℥ of them and pestle them in a
totally pure copper mortar & with a pestle of
pure copper, and grind them until they become very fine
& soft powder, and this is a sign that they have taken the substance
of copper, enough for giving them greenness. At that time, on your
℥ of pebbles, put in three
℥ of good minium, not adulterated by
brick & anything else, and grind everything together again very
well in a bronze mortar. And on all of this, put in a
grospour
℥ of sel de verre;
& some & the common people put in
esandiver that they find at the
glassmakers' or apothecaries'. But alkali
salt, as you know, is better.
In this way, the common people make emeralds & cast in
sand. If you do not have a bronze mortar, grind
witha mort in a kettle
of pure copper.
One needs to reheat crucibles before putting in materials, and
put them in the fornaise or four à
vent before making & increasing the fire.
They are made in an hour & a half.
A gros of salt on the four
℥ of pebbles & minium. When
one says, for ℥, this is to be understood: on
one ℥ of the body, & not of the
salts & the minium.
Emerald
For ruby take gold leafRaise your furnaceby two tiles all
around, because one needs more heat for making rubies than for
emeralds. And take one ℥ of white
calcined pebbles and put it in a mortar of glass, & having ground it coarsely with the pestle of the same,
mix in grain the weight of a
grain of gold leaf of what the paintersgild, & grind
Some say that, mixing the gold with the pebbles and the
saltpeter, it makes the color of a peach tree.
Others say that it is necessary that the gold be cemented several
times, then beaten into leaf.
n
again very well, then add in iii ℥ of
minium, & pestle well again all together, & put
it in the crucible, which you will cover with an appropriate
tile, a bit thick, in order that heat reverberates better
there. Then, set it on the grate of your furnace,
having put under a few thick rounded squares. Next, fill your
furnace to the opening with charcoal, so that it will
be heaped, and let it kindle, and always maintain the heat evenly
without letting the charcoal decrease. And for this effect,
always make it so that the furnace is heaped & full of
charcoal, and maintain it thus for one day.
The first experience that I made of it, it only returned a yellow mass,
as is vitrified minium alone, & some grains of
gold in a mass at the bottom. Try cemented gold
and accompanied with antimony.
If you need greater heat, plie put, on the edge of
the opening of the glowing furnace, tiles, one against
the other, for making the heat reverberate.
TopazThe same dose is observed for all gemstones, namely
one weight of calcined pebbles on three of
minium, pestling all separately in a
copper mortar for emerald & in an
iron mortar for making topaz or amber
color, with pestles identical to the mortars. The
emerald & the topaz are of the same heat, & for an
hour & a half on the fire, for they could burn.
The rubyen wants more time & more fire
& colored with gold leaf. I believe that pumice stone
or firestone for the ruby would be better. See the
enamels. Try also mixing, in place of pebbles, pieces of
colored glass or enamels. If the mass is not colored
enough, pestle it more in the iron mortar.Slightly burnt tartar mixed among this makes beautiful yellow,
but one hardly needs any. The arene also makes it
more yellow.
Salt for melting
Mix saltpeter & common salt, and melt them together,
& cast on melted copper or ch in a
bath, & it purifies & makes it run marvellously. First,
one ought to decrepitate the common salt, that is to say
holding it over a good fire until it no longer crackles or, to melt it
better, in a four à vent. And cast it neatly on
marble, then pestle it & grind it very finely, then
put it in a crucible on as muchsaltpeter &
let it boil, & mix them together until
It cleans & purifies metal well.
the crucible will be red. Next, cast it on
marble, and you will have a substance white, hard &
even, like alabaster, with which you will be able to cast medals
which will resemble marble, but keep them out of the
humidity.
JacinthIs made like ruby, with gold, but one does not need
such a great fire. The ruby wants fire for a whole
day, and if it does not have enough fire, it will
only have red veins.
Always heat up your crucibles.
One holds that rubified antimony makes jacinth.
TopazI melted one part of pumice stone, calcined & pulverized,
& tr with three parts of minium,
and the stone pulverized in a steelver
f mortar. It returned me a very beautiful
yellow without any grains, more yellow than any others. It is true that
it was well saturated with color. I believe it would be better to
le pulverize the pumice in a glass
mortar, because it & the minium make enough yellow by
themselves. It returned to me a mass, the top a beautiful yellow, as was
said, the bottom like firestone, without transparency. With
which, by mixing other
VarnishThe Germans make minium boil well in
linseed oil, & to give it the body of
varnish, they mix in thoroughly pulverized yellow amber.
Gum ammoniacOne puts it in small pieces into a little good vinegar, &
one heats, then one passes it through a cloth strainer. All
medicinal gums dissolve in vinegar.
Provisions for the work of Colchis
7 retorts
2 lb of ☿
One measure of coarse salt
6 terrines without lead
2 large unleaded pots for calcining
2 alembics for distilling vinegar
4 pots of good vinegar
3 or 4 lamps
2 lb of cotton
One pair of small scissors
For the furnaceA coffer with a stone ten square
thumbs in size and one
foot thick, pierced in the middle
2 earthenwareboxes or pots with a lid
2 small pipes of fer blanc to evacuate the
smoke from the furnaceRapeseed oil for the lamps to heat the
furnace
A fire-steel
Ciment royalOne lb & a half of vitriol
As much saltpeter
As much rock alum
Glass vesselsThe glass vessel must be made like a pear or round
pyramid, of the thickness of a small knife back, round
on the bottom without bending like vials, its opening of such a
size that a Dutch quill can just about fit
in, & with a lip at the end. Thus of a height of seven
fingers’ width.
Painting on crystal or glassThey paint in oil without lines, except for the faces where
they trace the nose & the mouth with black in small work, then they
make strokes & highlights in white, next they coat all with
flesh color. And as for the ground, they make it with azur d’Acre
for more beauty, or with lake for a quickly-done red,
or with dragon’s blood for the most beauty. But
one needs to layer it little by little so that it appears even & of
one color, & thus for other colors. Next, they put underneath it a
foil backing for topaz, or one of gold or
silver.
Infusion of anthos or
rosemaryIn the month of August, the flower is better
cooked & more suitable for making oil. Take of it whatever
quantity you like, and put it into a bottleafterward, well stoppered, & leave to wilt in there
in the shade for a day. Then put in it
the first substance of wine, &
leave it to rest three or four days, and next express the
whole into another vessel, & into this very same
substance of wine, put in
seven or eight infusions of new flowers. Next, leave the last
infusionin the sunfor a month.
Next, distil it through an alembic. Ne And take ii
ounces of this water in two or three
spoonfuls of white wine, but this is for the
elderly. Paul III used it.
Cast
Tin comes out better being thin & fine rather than
thick, because being thick & in great heat, it retracts. Therefore,
if you want to mold a thick piece in tin, mold it only on one
side & with a cavity on one side, if it is possible, in that way
you will have it more neat, and then you will be able to solder
two halves together. But if you must mold it thick, make it in the
form, & mold a lot of feeders
around the figure, in this way.
Against burns, excellent
Heat linseed oil on a gentle fire without letting
it boil & simmer, but once it is hot, put in a quarter as
much of the newest wax you can. Once melted, let it cool, &
once they begin to curdle, stir continuously with a new
wooden spatulat for as long as it takes
you to say one 9 paternoster, and as you say them,
wash this composition with holy water, stirring all the while.
Having said the first 9paternoster, pour out the
first water & put in new one, & wash & stir the
composition for the time it takes you to say 8 paternoster, and the 3rd time for as long as 7, & thus
you will consecutively until add new water, doing the
same as above, until the last & single paternoster of
nine. Then you shall have a soft & white ointment, with which
you shall anoint the burn for the space of 9 days.
But do not apply it any longer than this, for it would cause
a your flesh to grow excessively. You
b shall bandage yourself twice a day,
& each time you shall wash your face with water
& wine mixed together, a little tepid, not rubbing, but as if
pressing with a wet linen cloth, and you shall wipe it similarly
aff with a fine linen cloth, & next put
the ointment, over which you can put ivy leaves.
This causes hair to regrow & leaves no scar. A
gunpowder maker who had almost completely burnt himself
m’a & showed no sign of the burn, taught me
this.
Against dogs’ mangeThe English, who caress their dogs a lot for
taking care of their livestock, have grooms for them, who
not particularly hold this office. And melting pitch
in water & leaving it to soak, they rub the dogs
with that water, or else with water of sublimate.
Enema
In order that the tube does not harm, for example children, or those who
se have protruding or swollen hemorrhoidal
veins, one covers the end of the tube with a piece of
chicken gut, & one folds it back over the end, &
in this way, one gives the enema.
Cast
Tin retracts when it is thick, thus it is best to cast it thin &
to make two pieces out of one, then solderthem if
need be. One uses a strong piece of taffeta to sieve the fine
sand with which one first covers the medal to the thickness of a
teston.
For making colors run
Mix vinegarwith a little with bile & put
it p into a glass bottle, & if
you want to keep it for a long time, add some salt to it; & of
this, mix some of it among your colors, & that will make them
run.
Earwax
If you take enough with the tip of an ear picker &
you pass it through the foam of urine, which is readily made by
those who have a headache, all the foam will dissipate.
Enamels
For recognizing well their difference and their true color by
candlelight, you need to put your candle behind a
crystal mirror or a glass globe or jar
full of water, because this light is like
sunlight.
For eating away and dissolving entirely pure gold℞ put common salt into aquafortis in a
matrass, and let it rest two hours without
putting it on the fire. Put in the very thin gold, and draw it
out as if it had been parted from silver.
For etching on ironOne ℥ of verdet, ii
℥ of coarse salt & a little
sublimate, or else grind massicot with
linseed oil, and u cover
ce the quite clean & polished blade or
iron with it, & let dry in the fire or in the
sun, and draw on it what you please. Then, to etch it & make
the water, take a liard’s worth of
verdet, & put in twice as muchcoarse salt,
& about four grains of sal ammoniac, & six
grains of sublimate, & the water ought not to
be hot.
Good mixture to color gold
Sulfur & small gravel, as much of one as of
the other, & the third part of
soufrsalt, & as much
terra merita as sulfur.
For gilding with silver on copper and
lattenSoften the silver like the gold, & apply it as if
you wanted to gild. And do not let it heat, so the silver
does not tarnish. And after it is well applied, boil it in
walnut oil, & next heat it a little, & thrust it in
sweet boutteure.
Enameling a cornalineSoak some wheat flower in white wine, then
besmear & cover the whole cornaline with it. And bring the
violet kind to heat again, next put it to temper in white wine
for one or two hours, then scratch it & leave
the part you want to save on it, then reload it a little more on top.
Against dogs’ mangeHalf an ℥ of stavesacre for
common dogs, & one ℥ for big
ones, as fine powder beaten with two egg oil
whites & one quarteron of
oil. Make them drink on an empty stomach, having kept them locked
up at night without eating.
Approved.
For casting
If you have some piece which will not release & is big,
mold it with wax, either in hollow or in relief, because it is
malleable once soft & obeys, and thus separates itself from the
piece without leaving anything. But take heed that the melted wax
be neither too hot nor too cold. Some mold with wax heated in
hot water, but in pressing, the mold becomes clumsy
& makes itself false. When you have the hollow wax form, you can cast in some
very soft clay & thoroughly moistened & clear, & let it dry
at ease. Then you will make a hollow form on it ave of
lead or tin, in tu which what you will
form will be of good release.
GoldsmithKnow what it is to do spangling work: it is scales of pure silver
& of gilt silver with which one makes the
archers’ haquetons.
Spinet playing by itself
Make an axle surrounded with wheels pierced all around the edge, and
attach quills as for a cittern or a spinet,
& arrange them according to the song you want to be said, leaving
telle a suitable distance between. And, turning the
axle either by yourself or by a clock spring, your invention
will be effected.
TurtlesThe males have the shell overturned at the end near the tail, and have
the shell under the belly notched all its length from the tail to the
que head. And the females have neither the
overturned shell near the tail nor the notches.
Drying colors
Soot black & others would not dry in oil if one
did not put verdigris with it.
PainterColors laid down twice are thicker in and of themselves, if they
are not managed. Otherwise, one paints on wood, otherwise on
canvas, otherwise on walls.
Gardening
For shield grafting, one needs to take the new issue
that the tree that you want to graft has made in that year, &
there cut a branch on which you see that next to
raci the sprouting of leaves there are little
buttons that one calls œillets, which are the beginnings of
sprouts. One needs to nimbly, with a very sharp penknife, cut
in the shape of a shield a little bit of the skin with which
contains an œillet or sprout with the leaf, thus marked B.Butbefore Then, carefully make on the
tender wood, s which is in sap, on which you
want to graft, two lines thus de cut
, then
make in the middle a cleft thus
. Next, separate, with the point of the penknife, the bark &
open it from the cleft in the middle, and having neatly lodged your
shield so that nothing comes out but the sprout, bind it well & wrap
it entirely with a slip of linen or very
soft thread, so that there is nothing uncovered but the leaf,
which in three or 4 days will give you an indication
whether the shield should take, accordingly it will be green. Leave your
graft seven or eight days thus, then unbind it &
join it well to the bark, especially at the sprout, & then rebind
all gently but not as strongly as before; & if there is any output
or growth, leave it space to go out, & do thus three or 4
times.
Next, when it is well b taken, cut the top
of the tree that exceeds your tree, ne three or 4
fingers above the shield for the first time, and
apr then, at the closest point, in order that it
closes. But heed well that when you make your shield no small hole
remains at the back of the sprout, for this would signify to you that
its root would be broken, & your graft would never take; but make it
so that the back is intact. This type of grafting is practiced
from mid-May, so that the trees have already budded
& made new issue, until the beginning of
August, and so that the trees are in sap. Almond
trees, which by their nature are drier, lose their sap earlier, therefore
those who want to graft onto them mericotons,
apricots & grafts of trees with pitted fruit, which are the
best there, they are grafted in the month of
January. Generally trees with pitted fruit, like
mericoton peaches, are grafted in clefts. One says
that trees de grafted en piolet or by
shield are later in bearing fruit than those by cleft.
Nightingale
It is necessary that the iron wire of its cage be of the
thickest, in order that, thinking of leaving, it will not be
hurt. Cover, from the moment that it is taken, its cage with
canvas. One needs to feed it the first
day, giving it taking it out from its
cage into the hand & opening its beak, & with a
small wooden pin, put it in its throat & make it
swallow. And continue thus until it is no longer opinionated. This is
done for sustaining it, for if it were to become thin, it would die.
Gardening
It would not be very careful to cultivate oraches in one’s
garden, because when soup &
broth is kept a little bit cold because of it, it engenders worms in it.
Nightingale
It needs to have a cage made like a barn,
like those for calendras, doubled with green cloth,
because it fears the cold. And for making it accustomed to
eating when first it is put in the cage, one needs to give it
ants with soil at the bottom of the cage, to
make it accustomed to pecking puys luy, and give it
chopped sheep’s heart & immediately some
eggs & mealworms.
Fountain makerAs you will see below in the discussion of the
molder, reheated plaster promptly mixed into
water & put on the joints of the conduits of fountains
s resists as much as any stucco.
Catching nightingalesSee the 15th folio after
thisFor trapping them, one needs to observe their nature, the food that
they like the best, & the season of their pleasure. The
nightingale, as long as it sings, maintains a territory for
itself alone. Therefore approach, making as if searching the ground for
something. And taking some worms which come from old meal or
from beneath kneading troughs or mills, which the
nightingale is fond of, put some on your hat attached
with a pin or otherwise, in order that it wiggles. And at five
or six paces from the hedge where it sings, make a hole in the
ground & put in some worms and your device of little
crossed sticks. It will be anxious for you to leave so it can go
see what you have done, and seeing worms, it will enter.
Some sell nightingales on trees.The coolness of the evening
and the morning, near fountains & shaded places, are
more appropriate for taking them.
For casting
Aspalteis, which is found in Germany,
is the most excellent sand one can find for molding in a frame,
because it is appropriate for silver & for gold, &
the more you use it and the older it is, the better it is. One molds in
it very thinly & finely.
Makinggoldrun for castingBecause gold cools down very quickly, one ought to give it a
mixture when melted q it is well melted which maintains
the heat. Sublimate softens it nicely. But, because it goes up in
smoke, it does not continue to help. Therefore, mix this composition when
you want to cast: sal ammoniac, the best verdet
that you can find, a little borax & saltpeterqui li. And this, by keeping it warm, it
will come out neatly. Saltpeter clarifies it &
p heats it. But the most important thing in this
mixture is the verdet, which has to be good. This
mixture softens the goldqui so much that it
becomes treatable like lead, even fine gold.For sand for molding flowers & leaves & delicate things, mix
in ground raw plaster, brick & feather alum.To moisten sands, eau-de-vie is excellent, for it
grinds the sand finely & evaporates que when one
reheats the frames.Sal ammoniac water is very good, is excellent, for moistening
sands, but for lots of water, one only needs a little sal
ammoniac.A loop of iron, for lack of crocum ferri, is
exce good for gold.The snakes or lizards you want to mold should not
be kept for a long time, for if they are alive, they get
thin, and if they are dry il dead, they wither.Plaster of Paris is as firm as stone &
very good. When you want to choose some for your sand, take it raw,
the hardest possible & which does not make any powder. The
transparent one and the one that thus makes powder retracts,
Ce which is not good for this work. A sign of the
one that is close to perfection is that it is hard & made of
lustrous grains nearing the shape of sugar. Finally, to mix some
into the sand to cast gold, it is necessary that it endures the
fire twice & is reheated twice.
+
When gold is very fine, it is so dry that it
can hardly endure a hammer, but this mixture softens it like
lead.
Casting in goldTo cast in gold, il fcrocum
ferri is necessary, & more feather alum than in the following mixture.
The feather alum mixture cannot corrupt anything. The mold needs
to be red, & one needs to press it promptly with iron
presses.The shell of crabs & crayfish are
awkward to burn, & there is a proper fashion of molding them.Rats & birds can be molded, and the feet are
awkward to extract when burnt because they are small & delicate.
The bodies are extracted more easily from the mold. The feet
are cast in many times pieces.
TilesTiles with which one covers houses, the hardest
& firmest, and purged of stones & coarse gravel,
are used to p mix in with the sandet for molding. But, before, it is necessary to heat
them until they have been quite red for one or two
hours, & pestle them & pass them finely
through a sieve.
The little turtles, having just come out of the egg, are
very nice to mold.Those of the houses that are not sandy seem to withstand
fire better.
Plaster
When you have it as a stone, choose the hardest bits and those
which do not easily crumble away with your nail, and
clean it well from powder & filth before pestling it.
Plaster alone does not withstand fire but breaks up into pieces.
Reheated plaster, se ga, as is said here, keeps
well one or two months, well pressed, in a dry
place, if it is not rainy weather. But when
fresh, it is excellent for exquisite work.
It must withstand the fire & turn red like a lit
charcoal.
If the plaster is mixed with some dust or is not the
hard kind, it bursts in the fire & causes flashing.The hardest plaster, as was said, is the best
when it is from stone, therefore take it raw of this kind. Pestle it
well as finely as possible,
and pass it through the finest sieve or sleeve that
you can. Being thus p fine, put it,
in a good amount, in a cauldron or
skillet over an open flame, & as it begins to heat up, stir
it continuously, and heavy & coarse as it is, it will become so light
& so handleable that it will seem to you not to have any resistance
to handlingstirring, as if it were water.
Keep stirring it continuously until it returns once again to being heavy
& dense, and that is the sign that it is cooked. But do not reheat
it until your brick and featherfeather alum are
reheated & the clay circles are made. For it needs to be the
last one reheated & when all the rest is ready, for the less
plaster #Feather alum is the one that gives good
binding to sand.
Crocum ferri is appropriate for
gold. It is that one which, being mixed among the sand, receives it
& holds it within its warmth.
# remains reheated, & more the
more quickly it is put to use, the better it is, for it sets more quickly.
One ought not to reheat it until you want to mold. And to reheat it, put
it, as finely ground raw powder, in a cauldron on
ash a clear flame, & do not make it either too strong nor
too violent. Always stir with a long stick to avoid the vapor,
turning it around the cauldron & in the middle, in a figure
8. At the beginning, you will find it heavy difficult to
stir, because it is full of moisture. As it heats up, it will start to
throw off some bubbles at the edge of the cauldron. And finally,
it will become like liquid &, as it were, mealy & like bran & boiling in
the middle. Continue to stir continuously until you recognize that it
has once again become heavy,
ʘʘ
ʘʘ
as heavy as before, and like a moderately thick paste, & that it is
not so easy to handle as when it is liquid. It is a sign that it is
cooked enough, which you will know when it also throws off big bubbles or
exhalations, in the middle & around, as long as a
finger. Seeing it in this state, remove it from the
fire, for it is heated enough, because if you were to reheat more, it
would be too much & would not set as well. For when it becomes red
& overheats, it loses its strength & spoils the sand. Leave it
to cool before mixing it with the other sands. And when it is cold,
mix and mold, for the sooner after its cooking you use it, the
sooner it will set.
Catching lizards and snakesTake a stick and attach a string at the end which
has a knoteyelet slip
eyelet at the end. And there being two or three to distract the
lizard by whistling, approach the eyelet toward its neck,
and when its head is inside, pull. The lizard is more
tedious to catch by hand than the snake &
bites without letting go & grips like pincers.Snakes can be caught by hand, provided
that it is covered by a thick woollen cloth, for the
teeth of the snake stay in the cloth & cannot
pierce like they would with a linen. The dangerous ones are
recognized by their blue & assesaseurésazure eyes. They hardly ever bite in
water, which crayfish catchers
experience.The sand mixture is of two parts of plaster, pulverized
& reheated as said, & of one part of tile,
reddened et pprein a good
fire after the first cooking & then finely pulverized, and of
feather alum, half as much as of the brick, namely two
full crucibles of plaster, one of brick
& a half of feather alum. There can never be too
much feather alum, for s this is
what gives bond to the sand, and because it does not burn, it makes sand
withstand the fire without cracking & bursting. Otherwise, without
it, the sand would not withstand it. This sand, thus composed, is proper
for all metals, but if you want to use it for gold, one
needs more feather alum& than the aforesaid
composition, and mix in some crocum ferri. For it is this one that attracts gold.It is necessary that all sand with which you want to cast well,
withstands the fire well, that is to say that it withstands
abonc a great firing without
getting spoiled.Feather alum is awkward to pestle, and it does not
pass through the sieve. Thus, one needs to grind it finely on
marble. And the white one que v
in powder that apothecaries sell is good. It is
ground better su in the mortar by pestling
& dragging the pestle, thus you will render it very
fine.Crocum ferri must be set ablaze in a
glassmaker’sfournaise for four
days.
Molds can only be used once because for
delicate things, like wormwood & others, one needs to break
them, but before one needs to dip them well into water in which
the twice reheated things dissolve easily. Otherwise, you would not be
able f to release your work without danger of
spoiling it.Good feather alum is white and has a luster as
ofwhite c silk. It is in pieces
long as a finger, & is very breakable & wooly
as down. The one made of stone is harder & not so
good. Il The best of the aforesaid quality is
fetched in France, near Rouan. The feather alum for our sand is pestled in a mortar and is
further ground on marble, especially since one
cannot think of passing it finely through the sieve, for it is
so fat & wooly that it would not pass through it. It is this, with
its small soft qui & thin filaments, which gives
binding to the sand in a much more excellent fashion than
cloth shearings in the founder’s earth of the founders
of great works, because these cloth shearings &
cloth waste burn and feather alum resists the
fire.To enclose the molds, when you em throw
onto the things to mold your liquid sand, make your a circle
& surround with well beaten fatty earth.Archanum omnibus fere reconditum est in re fusoria,utvidelicet res exprimenda formis, sive herba sit sive
animal
ut lucerta, inafinting
inmergatur primum in vini spiritum
aprime rectificatum, deinde pulvere composito aspergatur
sive illinatur (si pulvis in formam pultis redactus sit, ut
assolet).When you want to mold hollow, it is necessary that the
core be of the same material. And if the snake or
the animal is curved or folded, one ought to make the core of
several pieces.Test whether distilled vinegar is
appropriate for eating away & dissolving what will be in the animal
molded hollow.
If you know that your plaster is not strong enough to withstand
the fire without cracking, do not be so scrupulous an observer of the
mixture put here that sometimes you mecties would
not diminish the quantity of feather alumla little bit, for it softens the
molds with its softness. Once reheated, do not pulverize it on
this occasion as fine as said, but leave it as the
apothecaries have ground it, for it does not hinder the
neatness of the cast & gives more binding. When the sandmold, estant having set, retains the color of brick and is reddish, it is firmer.
To hold the cores, some use wire of the same
metal that they cast because it reduces with &
melts with its counterpart, but because when melting or folding, the
core changes, some find it better to r use
iron wire, sharpened at the ends, because it holds
firmer & having delicate ends, it appears as no more than a point of
a needle. And one can apply gold or silver before using
it for a work. If it makes a hole, one covers it with a small
chisel.Eau-de-vie prevents the sand from becoming porous & does
not make little holes on the edges of the mold if the thing to
mold is well dampened with it. The holes & blisters & bubbles
are not made on the side of the mold, which is thick, but at
the edges, which are thinner.One casts with common silver, with which goldsmiths
commonly work, which alloys indifferently Et que.
And when one were to cast with solder, it would run even
better.Spat is a whitish stone which can
be found in Germany, & mainly in Augsburg, which
one uses for the most excellent sand that can be found for lead,
tin, copper, silver & gold. And the more
it is used, the better it is. It is appropriate for casting flat things
in a frame. For round things, it is not as fitting nor does
it hold in the fire as well as the aforesaid one made with
plaster.The shreds of cui thick, greasy leather
are pgood to cast in the molten
copper and latten, for it cleans it & removes from it all its
filth.
SpaltSpalt is white like cooked plaster and can be found in
mounds and stones formed in long scales & long veins. It is
very soft, such that with a fingernail one can scrape
it, & makes a powder like our chalk from Champagne.
And because everything which comes from the earth is mixed
with some other substance, to purify it, one grinds it, coming from the
quarry, quite coarsely, then one mixes it with sal
ammoniac water. By putting in a piece the size of a
walnut in a large bottle of water, and
thus one mixes it & reduces it into
psmall stones, purging it of its
impurities. Then, one puts it to cook neatly in a
potearthen vessel in
the fornaise of those who make pots, and one
leaves it there until the pots are cooked. Next, one mixes it
again with sal ammoniac water & one grinds it very well,
and one empties the muddy & clean water into a separate
vessel. Again, one puts the same water on top &
one grinds, & again one puts the muddy water with the other.
And one does thus, until it has passed everything. In this way, one
purges & cleanses it, & one renders it very fine &
handleable. Having taken away the water by tilting it or with a
sponge, one takes the residue and one dries it. Then,
moistening it with the aforesaid water, like one does with
the other watersand, one uses it in a
frame, where, if it retracts, it is a sign that it
has not reheated enough & that one needs to reheat it further. This
one is appropriate for molding all metals, and especially
gold & silver, and the more it is used, the better it
is. One needs to set aside the one in which you cast lead or
tin, for it would sour the gold you would cast in it.Feather alum should be reheated in a
cauldroncrucible covered
with a tile in a strong flame
fire of charcoals, in order that the impurity which could be there
burns with the feather alum, which does not burn. This is done either in the
goldsmith’s forge, surrounded with
bricks, or in a fourneau à vent with
fusion fire, so that the sand remains long enoughcrucible remains red for a
quarter of an hour. This is done more to cleanse it
than for anything else. It becomes reddish on the surface & on the
inside it remains white & better dried out. #
#
After your feather alum is cooled,
pestle it in a mortar, then grind it on marble, and it will be rendered into very fine wooly
filaments which give bond to the sand without getting burned as
other things do, which is a beautiful invention. Pestle it in the
mortar by dragging the pestle, for the flying dust
could enter your throat or land on your face, which
will give you reason to scratch yourself well. Put it in the mortar a little
at a time to avoid the flying dust. It is
better to grind it thus, in the mortar, dragging the
pestle, than on marble,
for where c it spreads, & in
the mortar, it collects on all sides. Render it very fine &
soft to the touch.Clay, to make circles around molds, should
be very fatty & handleable, and serves only to make the surrounding of
the molds. Thus, one ought only to choose the quite fatty kind, and beat
very well, & moisten it moderately with some water, & keep
it in a pit or in a terrine, and make numerous
holes with a stick in it, which fill with water, in
order to keep it always fresh & soft, so that it is always ready to use
when you need it.
Modeling in waxWhen wax is too hard, one mixes in turpentine or a
little butter, which sont pl renders the
wax more amiable and more appropriate than the tallow
that the Italians put in, because one often has to put the
tools in the mouth, which are better in boxwood or bone of hart.
Wax for molding -
As the wax is melted, they have sulfur that is
melted in a spoon or crucible, & they pour some
in the melted wax. And going to the bottom or
remaining on top, the sulfur leaves & mixes only its substance amongst the
wax & renders it more meltable when warming it, such that
having molded, it melts in the mold gently like butter, without leaving any pustule or bubble in it. Also be advised not to give it too strong a fire.If
Molding waxIn order that your mold grips without repelling in any place on
a shape or image of wax, you need to anoint it with oil
and moisten your sand with lukewarm water, for the cold
water would repel the oil more & would not have a good seating on it.
Anoint well, very lightly, with oil, so little that it hardly
appears. Then, rub with some eau-de-vie. Next, moisten your sand
with lukewarm water so that it does not repel the
oil.
Bellows of the forgeIt is better that they should be fixed through the blast-pipe in some piece of
thick plank, q for they are more secure for it; next, you can lightly
secure them from above. It is necessary that blast-pipes be 4
fingers above the sole of the forge.
Snakes for molding
When you take them for molding, if it is possible, do not remove
their teeth if you want to keep them. For, having had their teeth
removed, they get sore gums & mouth, & can no longer eat. You
can keep them in a barrel full of bran or even better of
earth, in a cool place, or in a glass
bottle. And give them any live frog or other little live animal,
for they do not eat anything dead. Also, I have noticed that
when they want to bite or eat something, they do not bite with a
direct attack but with sinuous turns & from the side, as do
Satan & his disciples. It has a small head but
a very long body. The entryway to sin seems small & inconsequential,
but the consequences of it are very great. It abstains from eating seven
or eight days, once it has devoured some
frog. It can swallow three or four of them, one after the
other, and what it devoured is neither corrupted nor consumed in one go
in its stomach, but p some part little by little,
that is to say bones and everything. And the remains are found as fresh
as when it had devoured them, such that sometimes, when one presses
& torments it, it renders up what it has engulfed, parts of which
are found totally consumed & others as fresh as if it were alive. It
can keep a frog
engulfed for two to three hours & renders it up completely alive.
ToadIf by chance you want to mold this vile animal, & if it were to
piss in your hand, it would burn your hand
& itch, as if you had handled nettles. But the most
powerful remedy for this is to put your handinto
fresh earth & to cover it as if you wanted to bury it.
A frog is not so beautiful molded because it has lively skin,
& the other has a lumpy one.
You can mold it hollow, and leaving under its belly an open notch, you
will make it jump with the twisted cord of the saw. Or else, if
it is small, put it on a magnet of its size, cut thinly, then
put it in good vinegar.When it is big, one needs to mold it hollow, & if you want to make
it have an open mouth, put some cotton inside, & then on the
cotton some melted wax.
Killing snakes for molding
Some put a drop of aquafortis in the mouth,
which stuns them well, such that the head & the part behind
seem to be dead but the mouth remains alive, and when you pierce it
with a needle to fit it to the mold, it moves &
spoils & undoes everything. Therefore, to put them to death entirely, put it
in a bottle of good vinegar & some eau-de-vie. And do thus with lizards & other similar
beasts.
If you want to keep them, you can put them in a pipe full of
earthin a garden outdoors. But your pipe
must be covered with archal wire, for otherwise it would
climb & go up very high.
MoldingYou could mold the thing and animal already cast, but it
never comes out as well as the one from nature, with which you can make
four or five molds.
Rock & grottoOne needs to pestlewhite & yellow marcasites &
diverse kinds of minerals, & then wash them well, in
order that the earthy & powdery part is cleaned & there remains
only the lustrous grain of the mineral, with which you will
sprinkle your rock previously covered with strong glue,
if your grassegrotto is
r not for a fountain & for touching
water, and you will have a nice work.
SnakesWhen they feel taken, they hardly bite & do not have the power
to harm, unless they are really big snakes. The main thing is
to keep from being bitten before catching them, and having put your
foot on top of it, as close to the neck as one can,
one needs to grab it closest to the head, for it cannot bite if it does
not have the means to stretch its neck & make a sinuous &
oblique turn, & it cannot s harm with a direct
attack, since he cannot move forward in a direct line, but writhes in
the shape of an S. I saw that the one who taught me to mold
them did not take this into account, & assured me that there
was no trick to it, other than, when taking it, he would pull it, a
little pressed & held tightly by the neck, & passing it under a
shoe, he would flatten it in such a way that it would render
soubs from its bottom, which is five to six
fingers from the end of its tail, all nasty and
venomous things that it had in its belly, and that after this, it does
not have the strength to bite, and if by chance it should bite or expel
through its bottom some filth, he would only dig the
earth with a knife, & bury his
hand in fresh & damp earth, which, when
applied fresh en on the infected part,
pulls out all the venom and nothing else. It is the same with
toad’s venom, which I have seen experimented.
In three, it is almost as thin as it will be afterward if it does not eat.
Molding it very soon after it is caught is best, before it becomes thin. One
ought to put it to death only a quarter of an hour before you want
to mold.
When it has eaten something, by tormenting it, it renders it up.
And if, after having eaten something, it is thus pressed
underfoot, this pains it greatly & hurts it. If it
is wounded, it will not eat willingly.
MoldsThere is nothing better for opening them up than to anoint them with
olive oil, & nothing else. And next, when you
want to unjoin them, soak them in cold water, which is the
secret. LAnd you will see that the
oil, although it seems to be imbued, will detach itself, like
grease. Molds become stronger in cold water. And hot
water would dissolve them awkwardly, although once reheated, they
are more handleable & easier to dissolve in the
water.
Wheat oilIs made on a blade of iron reddened in the fire. And
the oil drips off, which is appropriate for anointing the hair of
a butterfly or similar thing, for this oil is instantly
dry & makes the remainder dry out. It is necessary that the hair or
down of any animal that you want to mold be flat, for being upright, it
would elevate the sand & become porous.#
If you want to mold
something delicate, like a pansy, some, to give it a little
thickness, more than what is natural, some rub it with butter. But it
is best to anoint it with wheat oil, for it has no body,
& does not obstruct the small lineaments as much, and makes the
flower firm.
Cast of lead and tinBecause tin wants to be cast very thinly, if your medal,
plant, or other thing for molding is espe thin &
fine, do it so that there is more tin, much more than
lead, namely less than the fourth part lead for three
parts tin. And still, one puts lead only to form an
alloy. On the contrary, if you want to mold something strong &
thick, put a lot more lead in than tin. And in one &
the other you can put a little looking-glass tin, but only a
little, with a little rosin, when you want to cast. Since
then, when molding with fine and new lead, I put into one
lb two ounces of fine tin. And when molding
with fine tin, I put in two ounces of fine lead
for one pound. I made plants & snakes just like
nature.S
I cast tin almost red, and lead the same, which, however,
had not remained in the fire for too long, for it becomes brittle and
calcines.
Reheating moldsThe frames readily dry out & do not reheat. For
reheating is actually for the second time to redden &
inflame the molds in the fire, and drying out is to let the
molds dry themselves or to make their dampness evaporate by
placing them in front of a flaming fire or a charcoal one.
Noyau molds readily reheat & frame molds
dry out.
Latten smoke
It is good to reheat in it the molds for casting latten,
for this gyellow filth, which
appears nevertheless to refill the molds, casts very neatly,
being of the same nature.
For red copperWhen it is melted, it is good to throw in a little fine tin,
for this makes it run.
Clay earthThis one, moistened & well beaten & kneaded as you know, is
necessary for you to make the contour for containing your
molds. But take heed that it is not too soft, but rather as if
half dry, that ilit does
not attach to your hands, because otherwise
it would attach to your work. Always keep it in a damp place,
and make holes in it, and fill them with water to keep it
fresh.
The gray one is best, which does not crack at all.
It is more appropriate than a blade of lead.
Iron wireYou also need to have provision of different sizes,
according to the molds that you want to make; thick
like cord, smaller , & thin p,
like the thick strings of a spinet, for the small works. Once de reheated, you
make clamps from it to close the
molds, & points, like needles of different lengths,
according to your need, to pierce the animal to be molded & keep it
held down. Needles would not be good for this because their points have to be empty & of the same thickness
throughout, except at the point. And then, one must make them as long as
you have need of. Iron wire is firmer than that of
latten.
Sal ammoniac wateerThe size of two chestnuts of pulverized
sal ammoniac suffices in a pot of water,
and to the tongue, you find the water
moderately salty, for too much is not good.
SanguineTo clean the various colors of lead & tin, one
pulverizes sanguine, & with some small bristle brushes, one rubs the
molded ework.
Crab and crayfish
These are the hardest to mold, & whoever molds them well will mold
many other very delicate things.
LizardsWhen one takes them with two fingers from the
sides of the head, at the level of the ears, one makes them open their
g mouth, then one takes the a
end of its lower mandible with the end of the
fingernail, & next, with the upper mandible,
he bites the nail, but he cannot pass through, but he
clenches very strongly. And if he were to bite living flesh it would
au not let go, & there would be no better remedy
than to promptly cut off his head. In the spring, as they
have changed skin, they are more beautiful.
The small lizards that one takes in the summer, the
size of small female lizards, grey on the back & green on
the belly, are very appropriate to cast in silver &
gold, or other metal, because they have rougher scales
than the female lizards & show better.
like pincers
Composition of sandOnce everything is reheated as said above, take four 4 full
crucibles of plaster, two 2 of brick,
& one of feather alum. Do not pass through the
sieve to mix may because the
alum would not pass. Mix with your
hands until neither one nor the other, neither white
nor red, can be discerned among the other. If your plaster were not
strong, do not mix in at all so much feather alum, because
it softens the molds. Take heed also that your sand is not hot
(since it has immediately been reheated) C when you
will want to mix it with water, for this les
makes molds too soft & breakable.
You may sometimes diminish the quantity of plaster if you do not
find it strong enough to withstand fire & if it cracks,
& in order that the part of pestled tiles holds up, with
the feather alum, which you can also increase so that
it creates a better bond.
For tempering sandYou need to have a big basin full of water to
q soak the molds to open them, a
flagon full of common water, a
lead bowl for tempering your sand, a small
wooden spoon to collect the wetted sand in the
bowl. The big basin is pour
tr
To make handles for your large oil paintbrushes, if you do
not have large enough feather quills, take two of them,
& slit them, & join them together.
Decoction of sandsAlready mentioned.
Molding en noyau. Mixture of sandHaving reheated your sand, namely the plaster, the
feather alum & the brick, & having
passed them finely through the sieve,
#, mix them this way: take four parts of
plaster, two of brick, & one of feather alum. Mix them all together with your handsthat it in such a way that one cannot discern one from
the other. With your sand ready, you need to put to death the animal that you
want to mold de, in this manner.
#
except for the feather alum, which
should be ground in a mortar
Putting to death the animal for molding
You need to be careful not to wound it in taking it. And, having put
it in a glass bottled with
bran, or in a barrelfull half full of
fresh & damp earth, if you want to store them or keep them a
long time, give them live frogs & not dead ones
to eat. For if you keep them without feeding them, they wither &
grow thin & have long wrinklaulxed skins. Thus the best would be to
mold it as soon as after possible
apre after it has been taken. But before, put it to
death in this way. Place it in a clean bottle or vessel so
that it would collect no dust. And put inside such a quantity of good
vinegar & urine that it can be covered. And shake it
& torment it therein until it is dead, which will be in an hour or a half. But if you are in a
hurry
To know if it is quite dead, take it out of the vinegar and take
it by the tail. If it moves it, do not mold it for it still has feeling,
& when piercing it, it would draw back & spoil the mold.Water snakes hardly bite.
to cast, make him take through the mouth some good eau-de-vie or else mix a little with the vinegar. And soon it will
be dead, without any lesion which deforms it. For large animals, for
whom one would need a lot of eau-de-vie, one uses
vinegar and erurine. But for small
ones, only eau-de-vie, which is done sooner.
When your animal is dead, take it out & clean it carefully of its
old skin, if it sheds, or of the filth, or of the lice, like
lizards have, and then arrange it thus.
Now, put enough in a glass, & soak & continually keep in it
the head of the animal, or the whole of it, if it is not
big.
Take heed, before it dies, to keep the eyes open es
by blocking the eyelids with a little bit of wax or something
else.
For molding Making the arrangement and disposition
of the animal
Having made provision of fatty earth called
clay, that should be grey because that commonly is the best, or
another which has good binding & which should be well prepared &
beaten, such that it is handleable without attaching to the
hands nor the work, make a lasagna or like a
cake of this earth equally flattened with a round
stick which pastry makers use, which should be a little
thicker than a thumb. And on this
cake, arrange your animal, aya
imitating in that its nature & fa the fashion in
which it commonly turns itself. And first, with a good needle,
pierce it from underneath in the middle of the throat & up to
u the top bone of the head. Retract the
needle, & in its place & its hole, put the point of
an iron wire of such a length that it suffices to hold the
head of the animal as q high as it must be, & if
the skin moves into the inside & when you put in the
point, pull it out with apoint the edge of your small pincers, &
arrange it as it was. Push the other end of the point in the
cake of clay. Thus, the head will be held high,
which will have better grace, & being secured, next, arrange the gesture
of the body & the feet & the entanglement as you think will
look best. And so that it is secure & does not move at all when you
cast in the sand, put secure the legs
& the corp with little points of iron
wire, having already made the first hole with a very sharp
needle. Do the same on the body parts that you will deem necessary,
arranging making sure that the points
passing through the animal are fixed in the cake of earth
and not so far in front that they jut out beyond the body of the animal
by a
Take a fine needle of steel, & which is the sharpest
possible, in order that, making with it the first hole to place the points
of iron, it passes without forcing anything, & by its
roughness does not push in or pull out the skin. Next, put in a thickish
point of iron in thick places & thin ones in thin
places. But heed as a secret to not plant, in the first go, the
point passed through the animal in the slab of earth,
for but having planted it, take it out of the
earth & not out of the animal, & do ains
next, fix it. This is done because, by fixing it the
first time, it pushes in the skin of the snake, and by taking
the point out, it replaces the skin in its original state.When you put again the points you have already used, clean them
well of rust so that they do not take away some skin.
The main layout of your arrangement is to di place
the head raised & looking sideways. For this effect, pierce the head
on a solid plank or table& , making the
point pass through the bottom of the throat,
s’arrestan entering into the top of the head
bit, qua so that t you can
take it out if you need to. And take heed that it is necessary that
these points be of the most delicate iron wire possible
which can support the size of the animal. For the more delicate it is, the
smaller the hole that it leaves appears. However, one needs
different thicknesses of these, because ilde the points which are put in the body
& in thicker places, like under the throat, ought to be longer &
stronger than the ones of the legs & thin parts, where the
needles ought to be subtle & delicate, almost like the
thickest strings of spinets. And it is better that they
be of iron wire, which is firmer than the one of latten.
And if the end of the tail, or the end of a nail or a leg, ought to be
joined to the body, do not put the point there, not to corrupt
it. But place wax, as much as a grain of
millet, between the body & cequi the end of the tail, then with a bit of
flattened & hot iron wire, touch this wax & join
by lightly pressing. Thus having placed your animal on the
cake shaped like a mandore, place all around a
circle of the same
earth, in this way,
& join everything well together in a circle, then, with a
big knife, with which you have cut your cake to
the right size, trim the outside which exceeds it, & place there a
piece to close it as you see in b. Then, with a small curved
instrument, mark on the inside of the circle the thickness you want
to give to the mold, which will be for a common snake
as thick as two thumbs, in order that when you
cast in your wetted sand, you will see when it is thick enough. All of
this carefully arranged, moisten well everywhere with good eau-de-vie, with a paintbrush, the body of the animal
which is uncovered. For there is the secret, of the most
kept well hidden, because everything that will be v
touched by eau-de-vie will undoubtedly come out very
neatly & without porosity any small eyes or holes
that one calls porosity, which usually come not at the back & in the
thick sides of the mold, but on the edges. And as soon as you
have thus moistened everything with eau-de-vie, cast
in your wetted sand without letting the eau-de-vie dry,
which evaporates promptly. And wet it thus.
and make sure that the point is longish, depending on how much you want to elevate the head, and that it be pointed on both ends. Once placed
thus, plant your snake on the slab of earth, &
arrange the head first and then the rest.
If, after you have placed your animal on your claycake, you are distracted with other occupations, rub your
animal with eau-de-vie, & under the belly, so that it
does not dry & attach itself to the earth.
If, when you pierce your animal, it renders water from the bottom
of the side of the belly on the slab of earth, clean it well
with cotton for the sand thatEau-de-vie in three goes.
would touch it would be lumpy. If
it is on top of the animal, clean it very carefully and touch it
& moisten well with eau-de-vie.
Tempering the sand and molding the first cast
Take a bowl of leadedearth of such size that
it can hold the tempered sand which will be needed de to
fill your mold in one go, which is mei
better than in two goes, because if you do not cast the second wet batch
promptly, there is a risk that while you are preparing it, the
first one will set & become solid,
such that, while reheating, the two casts will unjoin. Et
pour pl Therefore, for this effect, take several bowls of
different size which have a lip, to cast better. In these, pour
some common fountain water, & mix into it as
much sal ammoniac water as can be held in an
egg, # composed as mentioned.
If you want to cast in lead or tin, because one would
need more for casting gold & silver, the
water being in your bowl, mix
put y your sand in it & not the water
in the sand, & add it a dista dista with such
discretion that il, while stirring & mixing it
promptly with a wooden spoon, it does not become thicker
than clear mustard. And thus, first cast into your moldlethe lighter part, qui
es as is always at the surface, with a shaking motion, &
da from a little height. And doing so,
when the animal is nearly covered, blow strongly everywhere in order
to dissipate the small and big bubbles that the wetted sand makes &
continue without delay to put all the rest which is at the bottom, &
a little thicker than at the top, until everything is filled, up to the
mark for thickness that you made.
And do not forget to shake the moldaffin while casting, in order that the wetted sand runs
& enters well everywhere. Also, tip your mold up on the side
of the head, which is higher than the body, and thus your mold
will have the same thickness, & you will spare sand. All of this
being carefully done fai, let it set, which will
take a quarter of an hour. Then, release the
clay circle, which can be used another time. And leave it to dry
a little, & separate your mold from the
cake of earth, which also de will
be appropriate for molding right away, and trim the excess with a big
knife, giving || to it the long shape of a mandore.
Rasche
If you can, fill your half mold in one go & with
la pre one tempered batch; it is the best.
#or two eggs, because there is no risk if there will be more.
And the water If you cast in two goes, it is enough
to put sal ammoniac water at the first bowlful.
Make it clear like a pureed broth, or like starch
water that women use to make their starch. For
there is no risk in it being very clear, because sand always settles at
the bottom & water separates & remains on top. The sand that one
scrapes as well mme too weak & soft. And it will not let
itself set quickly, for all things calcined dry out promptly from mixed
water.
If you do not fill in one go your moldtempered with tempered sand, take heed to stir your
second cast with the e p surface of the first,
p by mixing with your spoon or spatula with which you temper it.
Second cast
Scrape & cut also away the back of
the mold, which is always the weakest, and adapt it
cleanly thus. And do not forget to make notches around, in order that the
second cast anchors itself there & binds better
without changing.Sal ammoniac water is not necessary to small
molds, which require neither a big nor long fire to be
reheated; however, when you put some in, it will only be better.
Second cast
When you have well molded the first part of the animal, that is the
back, the backbone, and the entire top part, and the
len half-mold where it is enclosed has set
and is hard enough, + uncover the whole bottom part & side of the belly,
now with a knife& tant
at the thickest places, & then with a penknife, where the
most delicate parts are enclosed, such as the legs, the tail, &
similar things, and because the head is higher, you will also need to
look for it & uncover deeper, and make a deeper notch there which
ought to release easily. That is to say, widening on the outside, in order that
the second mold that you will cast on it can come out well,
which even the animal can help with, which is malleable and obedient,
being natural. However, ad be more careful
when uncovering the throat of the lizard than with the
snake, for the lizard has large jaws & large bones
that are not malleable and has hollow ears, where, if the wet sand has
entered, it is not aff easy to release. But you will
avoid all of this, if you uncover half of the head and those things that
you know do not release well. Once everything is uncovered well, blow
on top & wipe each part, by wiping with tiny hog
bristle brushes, slightly moistened by the end with a
little saliva, or with clear water, as you uncover
it, in order that your the uncovered lower part of your
animal will be very neat. #🝋 With this done, dip le
revyour mold your mold, for the length
of a paternoster in water, not
duthe uncovered side but
opposite, & the reverse of the uncovered thing. And this is in order that,
by sucking the waterinside, the oil with which
you next anoint the other side to avoid, is not
imbibed at all, but remains on the surface & prevents the second
cast that you will cast on it from attaching to it. Having therefore
thus dipped the reverse of your mold in the
water, take a paintbrush especially dedicated to
this & anoint it with it, anoint with oil
the whole surface of the mold, except the animal, which must in
no way touch the oil, & take heed to retrace well & to anoint
with the point of a paintbrush between the parts &
through all the delicate parts. And if by chance the oil is
imbibed, dip the mo reverse of the mold, as
mentioned, in water, & you will see the oil return to
the surface in little drops.
Mold small animals like big ones, except that you need to make
delicate points of offilcistcittern strings, both long & short.
remove with your small flat pincers, all the points.
And then,
+ now with
However, leave the point of the throat, so that it serves as a
clue to find the head, which is deeper down than any other part, because
when making the arrangement you disposed it higher. It is also at the
level of the head that you should make the biggest notch, & start
with this one to uncover, and follow the rest through the trace of the
points.#
And if some bit of nail from a leg, or from a tail, or from another
should separate from the mold, put y
between the two a small grain of wax, & with the point of a
hot iron wire, join it, then adapt your mold with a
knife, & make notches on its sides so that the other
half binds to it.🝋
This thus prepared, place your de first
half-mold on the cake of earthclay, & put the circle also around, & make the mark for
the thickness similar to the first. Then, with another rather thickish
paintbrush, moisten well everywhere the uncovered half
& belly of your animal
Etwith eau-de-vie,
without leaving anything, if it is possible, which is not moistened, for
this is the secret which makes it come out neat. And next, as promptly
as will be possible for you, before the eau-de-viene evaporates, wet your sand and cast it in thrusts and by blowing & moving the mold as you did
for the first one, making sure that the premier q
first thing you pour on the animal should be a little lighter than the
next one so that it moistens everywhere & closely follows the more delicate
parts. So, leave it for a quarter of an hour to set, then
remove the circle & the claycake. And, with a
knife, arrange your two molds uniformly together in a
long shape of a mandore, as mentioned, because of the cast.
Then, dip a little the whole mold evenly, at the level of the
joints, in water, for this is another secret to unjoin them,
otherwise you will break everything. Separate them nimbly, therefore, by
this means, and next, extract gently & with patience and method
the half of the animal remaining in one of the molds,
for pulling it sometimes from one side & sometimes from
the other, to avoid breaking any of it, or also spoiling something from
the mold. Et The latter being empty,
retire rejoin the two halves so that no dust
enters it, & put them aside until you want to reheat them, make the
gate & vents, & place the clamps. As for the animal, so
that it does not dry & that you might be able to mold it four of
five times, put it in water. And I think that it would keep even
better in eau-de-vie. However, the best would be to mold
in the same day the 4 or 5 molds that you can do,
because these corrupt animals in themselves stink within one day. Having left your molds one or two
esdays to dry, for they stay
damp for a good month, make the vents on one
half.
+ Note that when you have made your second
cast, were you to leave your mold for one
day or a night without opening
it, you would need to then dip it in hot water or else reheat it
before opening it, as for crabs.
If, after both halves of the noyau have made a strong & hard set, you
would not dip your mold in water, it would not unjoin at
all. But as you dip the reverse of the mold in water,
the imbibed oil collects at the top & at the level of the
joints & makes it separate.
However, take heed your second mold is of good thickness &
that it is hard enough because if it is lacking in this, after having
dipped it in water, & you want to open it, there is a risk
that it breaks. Take heed therefore to avoid this, and wanting to open
it, dip all of it in waterand rub it everywhere,
where it will harden if it has set well. Then, take your two
molds, joined with a rough linen cloth in
order to have a better grip, and separate them with strength as if you
wanted to tear apart a loaf of bread. But if it happens to break, join
it & on the reverse, strengthen the joints with clamps.
Next, you can repair the faults with small chisels.
if you want, which will be enough, or else on the two halves.
But because one needs to cast by the tail or from the back of the
animal, make it so that the vents come from the head & the middle of
the body to join to the said tail, where the gate is done, which is the
end of the mandore. NAnd having done your cast, do not forget to make in
it some holes and notches because the metal will run more neatly thus than if
the cast were even, for it gets corrupted in its notches & holes,
& does not go so much at once, & does not become as porous. This
done, mects join tthe two halves of your mold & strengthen the joints,
putting around these some small clamps of iron wire of this shape.
They
prevent
the molds from deforming & corrupting while reheating.
Make the cast, reheat the molds, &c
Note about everything
above |-|
If your snake has been without eating for a long time, it
happens that, when you want to put it to death in urine &
vinegar, it fills with a lot of water & swells, and
next it dries out as you fix & arrange it on the claycake, and next it happens that when you have cast your
moldtempered sand on it, & it has set, it
ends up coming out such that between the snake and animal there
is a line of distance D, in which enters
the second batch of cast tempered sandM. Avoid this,
therefore, if you can. But if this cannot be, do not let this prevent
your second cast, for the sand which will enter in this void will be so
weak that it will easily be removed with a small point &
will not have set with the first hardened one.Note that one needs more feather alum for
molds that should be reheated, like those for gold
& silver & things that one needs to burn inside than for those which release well & that are only for casting
lead & tin. However, do not put too much in either one.
Animal after release
If, by chance, you gave your snake such a writhing shape
that the place of the belly cannot easily come out, especially
since the head & the tail, which are the two ends, are
thinner, cut everything which is outside, & reheat the
mold so well that what remained inside burns, then pass some
quicksilver inside, & attracting ce qui
the ashes & the burnt bones from the inside, it will
also come out, because the conduit is big, & thus will not sour at
all your material. You can pull really strongly the molded
snake, because it is soft & malleable & obedient, &
the mold, having set, is so firm that, because of this, the
imprint will not be spoiled.
Mold reheating
After your molds have been reheated le
& cleaned, casting soonest is best, because if you keep them, they
get corrupted and damp. Reheat the thickest part, where the body of the animal is,
at the top, so that, if there is something inside to burn, it falls to the bottom.Mark the part on top to recognize itIt can only be good to let the mold die down a little from the outside
so long as, being well reheated, so long as it remains red on the inside when you will cast.
Cast of tinIf the plant or flower that you want to cast in tin is
delicate & fine, it is necessary that the tin exceeds the
lead in the mixture, & on the contrary, if it is thick, it is
necessary that the lead exceeds. Therefore, for the mixture
fine thing, put in some fine tin, not at all the quarter
part of lead. And make sure that your mold is
hottish, such that you can hold it in your
hand when you want to cast. As for the
alloyed tin, the same as mentioned, it is necessary that it is
very hot & almost red for casting, so that it penetrates. Otherwise,
having to run the length of the fine branches of
the plant, it will get cold before arriving there. And do not forget to
mix in it a little looking-glass tin, which makes it run better
& firms it up.
In the lead alloyed with tin, or tin alloyed with lead,
you can put a little bit of metalline, & it will seem
silver. But do not put too much, for this hardens the substance
& sours it also, so that for a delicate thing like legs &
similar things, it would not be appropriate.
For giving venting to the moldIn addition to your vents, if your es plant is
very fine, you can pass a thread through the
clay circle, rather than casting with a
needle, & make sure it passes through the plant. And with the
thread burning like the plant, a hole will remain which will
give air & venting, to help clean.
Reheating the noyau moldsAfter your molds have their gate, vents &
clamps, as is said, make at the end of the forgeen, or in some clean place, a surrounding of
bricks, and fill it with large half-lit charcoals. And place your
molds on top, and leave the charcoals thus to kindle by
themselves for a half hour, so that they heat little
by little and not all at once. Finally, as they will begin to become white,
beat little by little the thus half-lit large charcoals
on top & blow with your little bellows until they are
warmed. And thus, little by little, invigorate the fire,
without haste, until your molds are quite red on the outside
& the inside. If it is for casting some plant or some animal which
does not release well, & if, for this reason, one needs to burn
it in the mold, & when you look through the gate, & through it, you see the molds are very red & inflamed
inside, this will be your signal that they are reheated enough. But if
you do not see this signal, increase & continue the fire until it is
the case. If there is nothing in the mold that needs burning,
it will be enough that they are dried well on the same fire, if it is
for casting tin. They reheat better in a reverberatory
furnace.
Do not pull out your reheated molds from the fire before they
have cooled themselves, & take care that the wind or the
cold does not hit them while very hot, for this would make them burst. One
must not reheat them before they are dry and firmed up, for they would
cast in a different way, and it is necessary beforehand to make gates
& vents & place clamps.
Take care not to heat the fire in one go, for fear f
that your molds crack inside.
They are reheated enough when the entire hole of the gate is red. When
it is black, it is not enough.
For casting in silver, one must not reheat two times
&, if there is nothing in the mold that needs
despouiller burning, simply because it does not
release well. All the molds of flowers are reheated
two times, first for
burning the plants, flowers, and animal parts which are left inside. Next, one
needs to clean them & remove the ashes. Second, reheat them
& render them red for casting. At the beginning, reheat with some
charcoals, gently lit, and put your noyau molds flat
on the charcoals surrounded by bricks. Frame molds are
reheated on a grate.
Molding bouquets, plants, and flowers
One needs to mold them as soon as they are picked because they
ont wilt & dry out. Dip them, therefore,
immediately in good eau-de-vie & then put them in your
tempered sand mold, like snakes. For which one needs no
release, for while the molds are being
reheateds, the plant burns, which does not happen with
animals that have bones & q. It is necessary
that for bouquets, the sand be not as thick as for snakes
because, if it were thick, it would crush the flower.
Molding deen noyau, with the same
sand, wax images or lead medals and suchlike
Check if they release well. If they do not, fill with wax
what does not, and then anoint your images of wax or of
lead with olive oil, very thinly & very
lightly, such that the oil makes no thickness nor body on the
medal. Then, heat a little eau-de-vie,
until & when it is lukewarm, moisten the oiled
medal with it, for if it is the water were cold, it
would reject the oil, it would not sit well on it. Next, cast your sand
of plaster, bribrick, &
wet alum on top, having arranged your image on the claymandore & having made a circle around it
de to give it the necessary thickness. These medals
are oiled and rubbed thus with eau-de-vie
because they are firm & hard & would not be malleable for taking
out of theethemold, which is
tenacious, as are natural animals, which are soft &
flexible.
When you have tempered your sand, do not cast it in the middle of the
mold but on the sides, so that the sand descends gently and
that the beginning is thin & afterward thick. If your tempered sand
sounds like water falling in the mold, it is a sign that
is too thin. Make it, therefore, of medium thickness.
Casting for gold and silver
It is necessary that the molds be fiery red & ablaze when
you cast in gold & silver, or you burn flowers and
bouquets. The gate should not be very thick at the entryway of the
molded thing because the substance flows better when at ease and
without shaking the mold, & does not become as porous.
A way to grindenamelgold
very delicate goldrose leaves and others
After you have cast or beaten in gold the thin leaves of a
rose or other things, if you want to enamel them, you
need to solder or braze your delicate gold leaves onto
silver strips, which uy will strengthen them
to support the enamel. Next, once the thing has been
enameled, put the work in aquafortis
d, which will eat away the
silver & leave all the gold with its enamel.
For this, the gold needs to be passed with ciment real.
Molding snakesin all weatheraulcu Because in the winter they hide
in the earth, some feed them des in quantity in
barrels filled with earth & covered with
manure. Others make several moldsin
summer, because with one snake, you can make four or
five. And others mold lengthwise a natural snake, without
it being in a writhing shape, with common plaster, reheated as saidpu, en noyau & in two half
molds, as said, then they cast it in wax. In that way
they have snakes that they can twist as they like, and then
they cast them in metal, as is said.
If, in twisting the snake from wax, some feature becomes
undone, you can repair it by removing the protrusions from the molded
wax.
Mixture of tin and leadFor delicate plants & other flowers or thin foliage, the fine
tin ought to exceed the lead more than three parts.
And if it is a thick & coarse material, the lead ought to
exceed by more than three parts. Heat the mostly tin
mixture until it is almost red & very hot. And when you want to
cast, in removing your crucible from the fire, throw in two or
three grains of rosin, & for one lb & a half
or two of lead or tin, put with the rosin as
much looking-glass tinas the size of a hazelnut
with its shell, & mix & cast. And make sure that there is
more of the metal than is needed, in order that some is left.
However, if there is not enough, finish casting, & it will take. But
it will not be so neat. Next, dip your mold into water,
& with a point, release it carefully so that nothing is
spoiled. Make your cast a bit longer. If the material is very
thin, one needs for it to be almost all tin.
If you mold more want to cast inlead or
tinen noyau in the aforesaid sand, reheat your
mold once, only if there is nothing to burn inside. But if it
is for plants, flowers, & animals to be burnt, one needs to reheat it
two times, however not as much the second time for lead &
tin as for silver & gold. For for these, they
ought to be red when you cast, but for lead and tin, let
it cool until you can hold the tip of your
finger in the gate without burning yourself,
but you find a lukewarm heat.
Cast for copper and lattenFor red copper, one needs to put sal ammoniac, which
cleans & purges it of all its crust when it is well melted. There
are some who put in pieces of old leather thick new
leather. Others, parings of the feet of field mice.
Others, melted common salt alone, or melted with saltpeter.
The principal is sal ammoniac & a little fine tin, as
to what you want to cast. Red copper is more troublesome to melt
M than latten. But when it is well melted, it runs
better, especially if it is alloyed d’un with latten.
Latten alloys with a quarter of copper, and
one puts it in like in copper. But
particularly, a little calamine makes it run well.
A means of molding flowers and plants
One needs to choose them in their full verdure & vivacity, &
les mou not pick them, if possible, until the time
one will want to mold them, so that they do not wilt. Or, if you need to
carry them from afar, soak their stems in a bottle of
water or, better still, wine. Make, first, a
wax stick pointed like a large peg, of a size appropriate to what
you want to cast, as you see in the margin, marked A. Put & prick at
the foot of this small peg a bit of rather thickish &
strong iron wire. And at the point of this, you will fit your flower stem or your
plant. This done, set it aside neatly. And arrange your
mold of t circle & shape of clay, as you
have done for the snakes, in the form of a mandorein such a way that according to the size of your plant. Then,
take the one that you have prepared to be cast, as we have taught you,
& wet & moisten it very carefully with good
eau-de-vie with a paintbrush. Then pass the
wire stem through the end of the earthenmandore, in order that the waxq
peg, where the plant is fastened, joins to the end of the earthenmandore. And arrange thus your plant in such a way lying down
that it remains in the middle of the said mandore, without
touching on either side, so that a the sand that you will
pour in it will be of equal thickness as everywhere &
isexceed everywhere by the height of two good
fingers the top of the such plant. And
having secured the wire stem well, promptly pour wetted
your wetted sand, much thinner than the one for snakes, in the
mandore. And the sooner the better, in order that the
eau-de-vie does not dry. And take heed to put in a little more
sal ammoniac water among the
common than you would do for the
snakes. And when you will make sand especially for your
bouquets, where you would mix in a little more feather alum, it
can only be better. Thus, your mold will be in one piece
and it will not be necessary to unjoin it, but rather leave
separate it from the clay once it will have set, let it dry, and
then reheat it again until the plants are burnt.
Then And note that if the plant you want to cast has
a strong stalk & stem, you can cast it lying down, as had been said.
But if it is some weak & delicate flower, cast
plant it upright with the wax peg because the sand will
always cast lift it up, it being very thin. Do not forget to
adapt two vent holes with two small sticks, starting at the
foot of the cast, which is the pointed end of the wax
peg.
If the plants are so delicate that they rise to the top when you pour
the tempered sand, one can fix and contain them with a thread
passed through the circle of the mold with a
needle.
The more delicate the flower is, the thinner the sand must be.
For making the ashes of flowers and plants leave
moldsSome mix put quicksilver inside it. But, if it is
a small work or fine & delicate foliage that only has
p a slender exit, they make two errors: the first, that
quicksilver by its heaviness can break f some delicate
feature inside when shaken, the other, that some grains will always
linger inside that will make metals sour & hinder the
perfection of the cast. It is true that if it is to empty the
mold of some animal which is thickish & which has big conduits
& passages by which the quicksilver can easily exit, like a
bird or a snake, one can indeed put in it some
quicksilverpou to break by shaking the
calcined bones of the animal, because the said ☿ will
come out & not remain.
The asparagus stalk is so hard that most often it remains as
charcoal. Because of this, dry it out beforehand, or wet it with
oil of sulfur & turpentine, or cast separately the little
branches & solder them onto a thick stalk drawn through the
wire drawing plate.
If the burnt thing has left some filth or ash, let it cool
a little, & with an iron wire wrapped in
cotton that can bend according to the cavities that you have
to search out, clean & blow out this defect, or with a soft
brush or a cut paintbrush.
DaisiesThey can be cast well in gold. But if you want to
enamel them, you have to make them by hand & enamel
them & then attach them. Otherwise, the leaves would be so pressed
together that the enamel would muddle together there.
Sand that was usedDo not cast it. But because it is mixed with feather alum,
you can use it in the mixture of other sands, & it can serve in
place of brick.
Molding à noyau figures of wax or medals of
leadRub them with oil with a paintbrush, but let
it be so lightly that your medal is almost rubbed dry & that it
hardly appears to have been anointed. Next, destr rub
it with eau-de-vie and heat the water with which you will
temper your aforesaid sand, with plaster, brick &
alum, in order that being chau as if lukewarm
when you cast it, the oil will not refuse it, as it does with
cold water, & do not forget when moistening your sand to
always mix in it a little sal ammoniac.
Medals mold in such a way very neatly.
Blood of snakesIf you need to cut some snake inside the mold to
burn it, cut it far from the entrance of the
mold lest blood remains, for it would
make a crust that afterward would not be taken away by the same
quicksilver & would remove the impressions from your
mold.
SnailsThose which are found in the sea & similarly those in
which certain small crabs dwell are very beautiful for
grottos, if they are stripped of the first crust of their
shell with aquafortis, for they truly appear to be made of
mother of pearl.
For removing flashing and barbs from things molded à noyauIf your molds are of good plaster which withstands
well the fire, & they will not crack at all, especially
if, with presses, they are squeezed well between two
boards or in a vessel filled with ashes or
sand, & in this way they will make no flashing. But if they do
make some, you can remove it with a burin that one calls
chaple, which has a tip like a small
chisel.
For grottos
The old vine stocksStones made from water called stuf,charcoal, the compound of tin & fine latten, paper
pestled & mixed with pestled glass, cork,
heated parchment, white coral are appropriate for making grottos. But fantastical pieces of wood which are
found in the forests, & mushrooms, and
potirons of trees, once dry, are better than
any other because they are light. One mixes in small pieces of
looking-glass tin, which has a shiny luster. One finely pestles diverse sorts of marcasites which one washes to cleanse them of
earth, & one sprinkles the work with it, which is very
beautiful. If there is no fountain in the grotto, one
glues all al of this with strong glue,
which and it is soon done. Take
specimens of all kinds of minerals. The sulfurous marcasites,
which do not have a grain but are uniform like looking-glass tin,
are very beautiful.Rosette is found sometimes mixed with certain brittle
lumps which are pulverized under the hammer, which are very
beautiful pulverized on grottos.
Looking-glass tinIt whitens & renders firm fine tin if en
on one puts in in one ounce of it, that
is to say, i ℥ of looking-glass tin in
one lb of fine tin.
Sal ammoniacItSal ammoniac water is very natural for casting
in gold & in silver.
Casting in framesThe same sand that was used in the reheated noyaulx,
composed, as is said, of plaster, brick & feather alum, is excellent for casting in frames, and I
have experienced it thus: I pestled the pieces which had come out of
noyau molds in a mortar, dragging the
pestle because this sand is very soft. I did not
pass it through the sieve because the feather alum mixed throughout, which binds it, would not pass, but I
ground finely upon marble what seemed to me too coarse.
And having prepared it thus, I moistened it with sal ammoniac
water, made of sal ammoniac, as much as two
walnuts, in a bottle of common water, the
same size as a bottle in which one boils tisane, or in a
good pot of water, so that you find d
the water moderately salty. I mixed throughout water
ofhalf a glass of sal ammoniac, two
othe two au tsilver
spoonfuls of eau-de-vie.
J’a Having thus moistened the sand in such a fashion
that it gives a good hold, nevertheless coming apart easily, I sprinkled my
medal with charcoal pulverized with a file, to rid it of
oil and all other grease, which are necessary to avoid,
for they make would hinder a good release. I blew on my medal
& molded it, and the female part of the frame once
filled, I marked & made a line on the reverse of
the & edge of the medal & on the nearby sand as well. In
order that the second frames’em take the
imprint thereupon to denote the place for making the cast, having
filledthe female part of the frame being filled I
uncovered the outline of the medal and pounced the whole side with
pulverized charcoal, and then filled the male part with sand.
Once made I separated the frame and did not hit the
corners of the d medal to make it release, because
that knocks the sand & makes it esp crumble.
Rather, I struck the back of the frame, retaining the obverse of
the medal on the bottom, and it molded very neatly. If it had not
released thus, I would have waited to remove it until the
frames had been dried out over fire. I lit the a row
of charcoals between two little trivets of iron in the
form that you see, and put the back the & reverse of the
frames thereupon & the imprint on top, because in this
way, they dry out gently. And if, by chance, from
being too moistened they should crack, it is on the back, which pr
takes the harshest fire, & the imprint remains safe &
whole.
For better, one needs to reheat the sand used for the noyau
before using it in frame, until it no longer
contracts.Excellent sand
Take a little of the same sand, the finest that you can, to cover
the medal with.
For medals & flat things, the true heat of lead &
tin is when it is melted gently.
Note that I filled the frame before pressing it and did not
hit it at all, but rather pressed it only with the strength of my
hands, because hitting it makes it go awry. Secure
your frame that it does not shift at all, & if you put some
wetted sand under it, it will only hold in place more firmly.
Make the gate so that it is not too thick, so as not to overcharge the
medal, but wide enough near the medal that it embraces a third part. Do
not forget the vents.
To dry frames is to rid them of humidity so that they no
longer smoke, being nevertheless very hot.Reheating is to redden the frame, which is done for
gold and for silver.
As I saw that they did not smoke anymore & that, scratching
the back & the front of the cast & having found that they are
rough & firm & hard on one side and the other, which is a good
sign of their being quite dry, I left them to cool. I took some fine
tinf, one lb, & one ounce
of lead, fine & new. I melted it in a crucible until
it was, a little as it were, a little red. Being in this way quite hot
I smoked & not p & being ready to cast, & not
before, I smoked with the smoke of a tallow candle all
sides of my frames & imprint & cast & everything.
I set my frame, well joined, in the press. I drew my
crucible from the fire. I left it a little pass so that
the redness at the bottom of the crucible could die
down. And wanting to cast, I threw in two or three
grains of something like pitch rosin, & at the same time the
size of a bean of looking-glass tin, & I
mixed, & stirred the crucible a little, and I cast. And the
medal came out as neat as the principal. I smoked it with the
candle & cleaned it with small
brushes.
Always cast through the foot of the medal because the head, which is
lower, will come out better & make the cast longish. And when you
cast several medals in a large frame, they will come out
better.
Advice about the above
Good tin is that which is hard as silver
& soft nevertheless. If your work is thin, it must be almost all
tin & alloyed as is said.Looking-glass tin must not be smoked mixed until
the instant that you want to cast. Nor must the forms be smoked until then. If the sand shrinks in the frame, this means that it must
be reheated & reddened on the fire.Good sand, when moistened, does not stick at all to the
hand when pressed.The perfect sand for the frame is
aspalt, which is found in
Germany, which is soft as flour& almo
when wet, and almost all the others are lumpy.Nota that the cast must be thin & hardly thick
in order that it does not overtax the material, and must not
exceed the thickness of a the width of a grain of
wheat; likewise for tin, which wants to be cast
very thinly. For lead, a little thicker. There is no need to make
the vents very large & deep either.
For frames, the sand that you use for the noyau, of the
aforesaid composition, is excellent. But in washing, crushing &
reheating it several times, it must be corrupt from its nature & no longer fit to make a hold & to mold en noyau.
Fashion of preparing a spaltspatIt is found in earth in Germany, the color of cooked
plaster, made of long filaments, very soft to handle. And because it
is mixed with earth and filth, one pestles it coarsely
& one makes little balls, having for this purpose soaked it in
sal ammoniac water of such a composition that you were told
above. One places these balls to reheat in the fire of the fornaise
of the potters, then one soaks it again in the same
water. The earth and the coarseness and
filth go to the bottom, and the pure aspalte,
which is light & soft, and handleable as wet flour, adheres
with the water and goes to the surface, clouding the
water, which murkiness is emptied into a separate vase.
When it has settled, one empties the water by tilting or by taking
it away with a sponge, and the pure aspalte
remains at the bottom. Dry it & employ it in a frame that has
been moistened with sal ammoniac water. And try it in the
frame, in which it shrinks when reheated or dried, that is to
say that one needs to reheat it again on a good fire and redden it.
Thus, for medals and flat things, you should use this one, because it is
the most perfect of all for gold, silver, copper,
lead, latten, & tin, for it withstands the fire
& reddens whenever need be, without corrupting. The more it is used,
the b better it is, & it does not spoil. At the beginning
it is white, & being used, it becomes grey. However, make sure to put
aside the one that served for casting lead & tin &
latten, for gold would sour in it, & would not come
out of it well. And to do this better, you could put it aside to be used
for each metal.
See Gesnerus,De lapidibus
It endures ten or twelve castings without corrupting, it withstands the
fire & reddens, it is suitable for all metals. It is so
tenacious that should the frame be furrowed, it holds.
The spat almost does not set, even though it is reheated & is
a kind of plaster. Raw, it breaks easily with the
fingers.
Excellent secret for molding hollow and very delicately in fine
goldCast with your aforesaid sand your animal and lizard
or other thing with billon silver, & it will come out very
neat. E But take heed to mold it hollow, or at least leave a
small hole in its mouth or in another place. Next,
gild it with fine gold, as uniform as it will be possible
for you, three or four or five times, & until your gold has
the thickness of a piece of paper or something similar,
& all the scales will always show equally. Next, put it in good
aquafortis, which, by this hole, will corrode the billon,
& the gold will remain hollow & light &
wonderful.
Stamped medals from waxYou can mold in wax, mixed with a bit of rosin so it
will be harder & firmer, the relief of whatever you please, either
an animal or a medal, & then, from it, make a hollow form of
latten or copper. Or, hit itmold it
in relief and hammer it in a sheet of tin,
Et pu and then fill with lead & heat it.
Try sheets of gemstone foils molded in a hollow form for lizards,
&c.
Sand for casting in goldTake common sand of alum, of plaster &
brick, according to the composition said above. Add to it some
more feather alum. And mix in not quite the third
part of crocum ferri. However, its quantity cannot
be harmful, for it is that which receives the gold & thanks
to which it comes out very neatly. But it were good that your
crocum had previously been in the
glassmaker’sfornaise, three or fourdays and three days and three
nights, in a flat box where it should not be very thick, so that it reheats better.
You could cast gold well in common sand of
goldsmiths, should you throw therein some substance that makes it
run. Before the invention of crocum, one would cast
flowers in silver but not at all in gold. It has not been
forty years that one knows this in
Germany.Sublimate is commonly employed by goldsmiths for
gold. Some add sulfur, but they & others are wrong,
for sulfur sours, even as it heats. And the sublimate is
agitated, boils, and bubbles. It is very good to clean gold
because by its exhalations, it draws everything out as it goes up in
smoke. But to warm gold & conserve its heat, there is only
the couleur, which is verdet, sal ammoniac,
saltpeter & borax. This makes it run, & you can
throw in a branch of wormseed.
IlNightingaleOne needs for the cage, made like those for larks
like a barn & lined with green fabric, to be
made with a drawer underneath, to refresh its fresh earth
everyday, for it takes much delight in this, & mix in it
some ants. You can carry an anthill with its earth
in a barrel full of earth, & keep them there & they
will lay their eggs there, in order to always have some at hand when you
want them, should you take pleasure in feeding nightingales.
When you have taken it, it is fat & full, & thus, to keep it in
its strength, one needs to, for the first day,
take uyit in the
hand & open its beak & put in its beak with a
small pointed stick some mutton heart or other
delicate flesh, chopped up not too finely, in order to fill its
belly & keep it from diminishing & growing leaner, until it
has gotten over its fancy. The next day you will give
him And you will feed it in this way three or four times a
day & will also make it drink. The next
morning, you will give it in its cage some well-minced
flesh with the yolk of a hard-boiled egg, and change it two or three
times a day, for it will not eat it if it is
hardened & if it is not fresh. And if it goes half a
day without eating, one needs to feed it as before &
do so until it
eats by itself. And to entice it better, you could add amongst the
meat & the egg some live mealworms, for it is
very fond of them.
Crocum ferriIt is excellent plastered on wounds to stop the
blood. The best is made of needle filings.Crocum ferri hardens molds, once reheated,
& feather alum, the more there is, it renders them softer
& sweeter.
Anatomy
One needs to skin the animal & boil it, or else skin it &
put it into good quicklime.
Making silver run
If it is for a large work, arsenic &
tartar, pulverized & thrown on the melted silver, makes it run
If it is and suffices. But for fine work, one needs some
aes ustum, filings of
latten of thin copper, u
antimony, sublimate, finely pulverized.
This From this gets made a mass that does not sour. If the splaster is good, one ought
not to add crocum for silver, but one puts more
feather alum. It needs also some melted common
salt & some saltpeter with the aforesaid drugs:
arsenic, tartar, aes ustum, copper
filings, antimony &c.See the second leaf following.Sciscitatio dubia
A little tallow and arsenic
Keeping dry flowers in the same
state all yearThis is a rare secret, & which gives pleasure for adorning
tables, rooms & cabinetsout of season,
when winter denies flowers. Take heed, therefore, to
ce pick them when they are in full vigor &
growing. For if you were to take them when their season
is past or when they are starting to wilt, they would not keep.
Having thus chosen them, therefore, take sand, the leanest &
driest you can find, which should be very fine, like that which
goldsmithsuseuse to work
enamel or like that for stampings. But above all, it must not
make dust, nor remain on the hand, or leave a mark on it
when you have pulverized it & then poured it from your
hand. For it isRiver sand washed by the current of the
waters is good, being passed through a linen cloth
to shake the powder.
+
Flowers are also kept in their same beauty in distilled vinegarvin a well sealed vessel which does not
allow any wind, which should be well sealed with wax &
mastic. Carnations & roses, the residue
of common vinegar makes them rot. If the sand makes
dust, & clings to the flowers, & is not easily removed
with a paintbrush, it is no good. The leanest is the
best.
+
Make sure your box is well joined, in order that the sand
does not trickle out. Keep it uncovered in sunlight and
remove it from the serain & the humidity of the
night, & cover it & keep it in a dry
place.QueTake heed not to put the said flowers in big
vessels, for when one pulls out one, one needs to pull out all.
Take good heed not to pick your flowers w in rainy and
humid weather, but when the sun has been shining on
them.
a sign that it has some humidity, & if the flower also had some
aquosity, it would rot. It also ought not to be too coarse,
for with its heaviness it would weigh down the flower & make it lose
its form. Having thus chosen it as is needed, take a box, in
which you first make a mound of the said sand, on which you will set the
stalk of your flower, so that laid down so that the flower
touches neither the bottom nor the sides of the box, but
remains in the air. Then, weigh down the stalk with more onsand in order that it remains firm & fixed. Finally, take some of the
same sand & with two fingers pulverize & cast
it delicately on the flower, e imitating in that the flow of
an hourglass. And when the flower is as if
half covered, strike your fist on the table
where the box is set in order that the sand drops & enters
everywhere. Finally, cover it all over and thus lay in other flowers,
in order, one over the other, as many as your box can contain.
That being thus arranged, expose it for several
days to hot sun. And while the flower dries, the
sand, which ever accompanies it & holds it, does not allow that in
contracting, it shrivels & closes in on itself, but it must dry in the same state as when you put it there. Now
take heed that you choose for that effect cornflowers,
marigolds, the yellow meadow flowers called
ranunculus or palta
lupina,amaranth & suchlike, and broom,
and others that your experience will teach you.
The sand with which goldsmiths buff enamels or the
white one that glassmakers use, & any lean sand that does
not hold together, pass it through a horsehair sieve, for
it ought not to be so thin. Next, dry it well in the sun for
several days to remove all humidity from it, and
ventilate it like grain so that the dust goes away. Once it is
rid of that dust & well dried, use it as you know.Pansies are kept thus.
For keeping fruits all yearOne needs to pick them in serain &
s quite dry weather & by the stem without
touchingit the fruit with your hand, and
put them in glass bottles that have a wide
opening, like tall glass boxes for putting preserves.
Fortify them with straw or something else so that they may not
break, and seal them well with wax so that they may not breathe.
And if they had a glass lid, well-sealed with wax, they
would be all the better. Put them in a case in your
well, or in your cellar in a vat, or in a
cos of earth full of water.
For where the hand will touch, it will rot,
and it is even good not to breathe on them. You can also put in
leaves from vine.
For casting in silverYou need to arrange your animals as said and compose the same sandtwo parts of out of 4 parts of
plaster, of two partsreheated brick, & one
partreheated feather alum, and mix
it well. Then, having been prepared thus, and you wishing to mold it,
take the three parts of an earthenware bowl, from which
the peasants eat their soup, of the aforesaid
sand, & add to it pure feather alum,
reheated & pulverized in the mortar, as much as you
can take with 4 fingers and the thumb, or a
small double handful. Then, mix mix well & wet
with a little sal ammoniac & the rest of the common
water, + & stir it with your spatula so
that it all becomes like a thick sauce or thin
mustard, & having rubbed the animal with eau-de-vie with the
paintbrush, cast, &
blow, and beat the table to shake the mold, & do as
with others.
Do not forget to put in it crocum, for it prevents
the molds from cracking & is appropriate for all
metals.Alloyed silver is better for casting than the fine one, provided
that it is sweet.
One needs the feather alum to be well pulverized
and well mixed.Sal ammoniac is a friend of gold & of
silver.which needs to be placed before the sand in the bowl,
which is put in the water, & not the water in the
sandLatten is the enemy of gold & the friend of
silver.
Silver for casting
It is not fine silver but alloyed, & which does not
become perfectly white on the fire because they put it to whiten after the
fusion to also clean it of the solderor of the. When
you need to attach some leg animal against another or to
repair, it is commonly teston silver. And all
alloyed silver, as long as it is sweet, is good.Before starting to cast in silver, one needs to
have earthof which which withstands the fire, like
the sandy earthde qu mixed with cloth
waste which founders use to cast their cannons, or any
good lute which withstands the fire, in order to surround your
molds & fortify them, for they must be all red. One
needs to also bind them with iron wire.That before casting sil reheating the molds, you
have the mixture one needs to make the silver run.If the goldsmiths knew knew the substance to make
silver run in their works, they would buy much of it. Some buy it five
sous for a denier.I have used silver from the Capital
Before bindingluting & strengthening your molds
for gold & silver with the aforesaid earth, one
needs for the cast to be made & the vents, & the molds
to have been reheated of very red to burn the animals,
flowers, and plants that are inside, & to clean them well of the
ashes. Once quite clean & prepared, lute them & bind them
with iron wire, & reheat them again until they will
be quite red.
Arranging various animals
When you uncover some female lizards writhing while biting each
other, & which is the most difficult thing to mold
because of the number of feet & because of the tip of their tails,
which are very fine, Il take heed that if some part should
trou be uncovered that remains as if
suspended in mid air to steady it, in order that the second cast, which
you will do on top for the second half, will not vary. And to steady it
over the void, take a little wax & rub it,
& lengthen it on a table into the form of a thick needle,
then cut that which you will need, & with the tip of a hot iron wire,
join it where it will be necessary. Steady also on the framemold all that will
have detached from it (when you uncover the half of the belly) with
some wax, taken lightly with the point of a penknife,
& joined & melted with the iron wire. And when
you make your gate, you ought only to bring the wax to the place &
to the edge of the wax which, being joined to the animal &
melting, will continue the gate up to the animal without spoiling
anything, which is a secret.One arranges snakes bound together in embraces of love,
but that is when they are small.
Flower in the mouth of the snakeIf you want to put in the mouth of the snake some flower
q or some branch of a plant which contains the
antidote against its bite, take a little branch, as best
arranged as you can find, & pose its stem into its mouth. Then put
two little pieces of wax around the stem of the plant. And with
the end of a iron wire that is hot, melt the
wax a little, & with the other hand, close
the jaws of the animal. And then you can cut the head to make it burn
with the flower. If the plant s is strong enough, it
will hold up by itself, and should it be weak like wormwood
leaf, which droops, the dampness of the sand will lift it up, & make
it swim & hold up without putting anything there, although you could
pass underneath it some thread, going through with a
needle.
Cleaning the bowl and the spoon with which one
tempers the sandBe careful to clean, as soon as & quickly after you have cast,
your bowl & your spatula or spoon with
which you temper your sand, because ’il if it dries in
them, it crumbles & falls into the fresh sand & makes a hole or
a fault in the work. Also, when the mold is reheated, these
little pieces crust up & flake off & prevent neat
casting.
Molding hollow
Wax on its own cools too quickly & does not run well
everywhere, & tallow keeps its heat well & runs
everywhere, but on its own it is not good. But when wax &
tallow are mixed, the work is all the better. Crayfish &
other small animals can easily be molded hollow for the body, but as for
the legs, it will be awkward.
The first part of the mold, that is, the first cast on the
clay slab, cracks more readily in the fire than the
second.
Molding medals and flat things
You do not have to make the gate with legs thus
, but rather in this way
, which embraces the medal well. For the other way, with legs, is only
done to accommodate more delicate works and the other, which is
wide and in one piece, works better for flat medals. But take heed
that all gates be very thin close to the medal & almost not as thick
as the medal, if it is not very thin like paper. And then, from
the medal toward the gate, thicken it as it goes, for it comes out better
thus. If the gate is thick at the entry to the medal, the work will
never come out well. Make sure that desp it is moderately
thick from the half of the gate at the top, & from the same
half at the bottom very thin. Do not forget to make grooves at
au hau the top of the gate to prevent that the
metal runs furiously.
A means di far correr
lotnegraTake white arsenic, two ounces, 2
℥Orpiment or yellow arsenic, two ounces, 2
℥Aes ustum, two ounces, 2
℥fine copper filings, moderately ground, 2
℥Antimony, 2 ℥Rock salt, 2 ℥Raw tartar, 2 ℥Sandiver, 2 ℥Saltpeter, half, that is to say 1
℥Coarse common salt melted, half, 1
℥Sublimate, half, 1 ℥Borax, half, 1 ℥Sal ammoniac, as much as borax, that is to say 1
℥Take these substances, of the best kind you can find. Weigh them as
said above, and pestle them separately, keeping your
face covered, over the nose & the
mouth, from the eyes down, to avoid the exhalations of
arsenic, sublimate, and orpiment. Mix them well, all
together, then put them in a good crucible that is so large
that the substances can have the fourth or fifth part as empty space.
Cover the crucible with a good tile, adapted in a
circle precisely on its opening. And having bound it from top to bottom
and on the sides with iron wire quite strongly, lute it
with earth mixed with dung or founder’s earth that artillery
founders use. And in this, be careful & diligent, & do
not forget to mix in pestled glass throughout the lute to
fortify your crucible in such a manner that it takes no air, for the
substance would be worth little, because the 4five last ingredients would be exhaled.
Note that you need to lute well your crucible, in order that the
substances do not take air, for they are exhaled.Lute well your crucible, in order that it does not break. For
if it breaks, the substances evaporate & the fumes of it are
dangerous. If within 12 hours it is not melted
and mixed, it will not be well made. Goldsmiths who have knowledge of this substance sell a
denier of it for 5 sous to other
goldsmiths, & especially to those who work in plate
and large wares, for at the end of their works, they can solder
over the first solder by means of this mixture. In general, all
those who want to mold & cast something delicate. This material
should not be divulged, lest it be abused.
The grain is like broken steel.
Your lute being dry, put, in the early
morning, your crucible in a four à
vent, & at the beginning, give slow fire, as much for
reheating your crucible as for gently letting the fury of the
saltpeter pass. Then, invigorate little by little & with
judgment the fire. And there leave in the full vigor of the fire your
substances for 12 hours or a natural
day. Make each time a good quantity of this substance, so as not to
do it often, because the fumes, which are dangerous, could
hurt you. And before working at it, take in the
morninggood buttered toast, and hold the
said butter, or zedoary, or gold coins, in
your mouth, and ada cover your
face with a cloth from the eyes down. From
this mass, the crust will serve you make runto
clearthe great works of the silverfrom
the metallic masslike snakes & similar
thingswhen it starts to melt.ButAnd
then, the grain that will be at the bottom of the
crucible should be put aside for principally delicate
flowers and herbsputting a little in the melted
silver when you want to cast itHowever it is necessary
to always put a little of this grain in the silver when you
want to cast it is well melted and when you are ready to
cast. Thus, do as you make fine tin on copper,
& for looking-glass tin on lead and on tin.
And just as looking-glass tin sours lead and tin
too much if you put it in too great a quantity, likewise, the grain
composed of the aforesaid substances would sour your silver
if l you were to put in too much, and obscure it.
This aforesaid composition will suffice you for a long time, when
it has been for a whole day on a gentle
gentle fire at the beginning & invigorated degree by degree until
the end. Then, having given it one load of charcoal, let it consume it
by itself, & let your crucible cool. Next, break it. You
will find two hard slabs & cakes in the
crucible. The upper one is as if petrified Once,
composed of salts, sublimated & mixed together. The lower one
is metallic, composed of filings, aes
ustum & antimony, having the grain very small.
Pulverize the upper cake, made from salts, &
put some to clear, & clean the silver, and the metallic
grain will serve you to put in the melted metal.
Charcoal fire
Or else after you have had your drugs pestled by some rustic. And
having put them in your crucible, & the latter luted &
dry as said & placed into the furnace, have the fire
managed by a shop boy familiar with charcoal.
One sells well to silversmiths this metallic mass to
soften their solder, because when melting, latten exhales.
And with a little of this substance, they solder over the other
solder.
Animals with hair and fragile and very thin flowers
Animals with hair are awkward to mold because the hair is raised
& is represented as though mixed up & to clumped
together. Starting, one ought to keep it flat with something dessicative
& that makes it firmer. And in this, the most singular thing is
wheat oil, with which you will anoint it. Once cast, you
will be able to repair it. The bodies of butterflies and
plants that have a stem & leaves which are wooly with a certain
capricious & downy hair, also need to be anointed with the same
oil, to keep this down flat; likewise flowers that have
very delicate & thin leaves, for dry wheat oil makes
them rigid and firm. And if someone brags about molding what is
presented to them, give them to mold the downy head of the plant called
dandelion or a pappus, which comes from the
seeds of burdock & flies away at the slightest sigh of
wind.
Noyaulx for molding hollow
Animals of gold & silver can readily be molded
s hollow, to avoid weightiness and costs as well,
if they are not very small. But to make the core & the
noyau, one needs the mold to be freshly molded &
not dry.
Spider’s web
It comes undone in water & thus cannot be molded
en noyau, but one casts the spider and then one draws the
drawn threads between the grass that they make in the fields
on some quarton with a point. One makes
around it an edge of paper, glued to the
quarton & one casts with tin, very little
alloyed with lead.
Fine goldThere is a property of gold which, even though it is very fine
& unalloyed & has been passed through aquafortis &
antimony, is nevertheless so brittle that it hardly withstands the
hammer. And the composition of verdet, described above to
make gold run, makes it as soft as
lead.
Rouge clairenamelFine gold is opposed to it, for on it, it
remains yellowish. But alloyed gold is more appropriate for it,
such as that of écu & pistolet. IfGoldfis not put back on the fire, with its
own pale color, renders the enamel a dead color.
Ma And for this occasion, once cut, one puts it back
on the fire to give it a reddish color, to make the enamels
beautiful. Otherwise, they are matte.There is rouge clair which, once it is used with the
arene, loses its beauty.Some can be found that have grains of gold inside, and it is
also the opinion of good goldsmiths that the good one is made
with gold.
Casting with goldMolds are reheated better & more surely in a closed
fire, such as pot in a reverberatory
furnace. So that when goldsmiths want to cast some
important piece of gold e that has cost a lot to model in
wax, they put the molds in a pot & cover
them, & fill the pot with earth, sustaining the fire
that holds them together & tight. Then, they reheat the
mold, earth & pot together, and when
everything is quite red, they cast the gold. Fine gold does
not run well, but alloyed gold does.Gold & silver do not sour, being
entirely red and hot, quenched in water.Gold is a quarter heavier thanlead.
When gold reaches its perfect heat, it is green like an
emerald.
Take care that in the place where you want to cast the gold, no
lead, tin, or lime of these has fallen in the
forge.
A means to make the gate for small female lizardsBecause you always have to make the gate by the tail, and because it is
uso delicate and thin that the gate would strugglemetal would run with difficulty, especially when it is curled,
roll wax in little threads of this thickness
and apply some with the hot iron wire, as is said, one at
the end of the tail & the others, that are applied in the same way,
from one edgeside of the tail to the other, as
you see depicted. But take heed to make sure that with the end of
the hot iron wire, the end of the wax barely touches
the animal, for the sand of the second cast will not touch this part.
But make sure that the end of the wax arranges itself only at the
edge of the empty part of the first mold. Make also conduits of
wax around the legs & around the contours of the body which
are a little long, & they will serve as feeders for the
molded thing.Follow here above
🝋
When the tail, which is delicate and closer to the gate, comes out
well, the rest will also come out well.
The principal thing is that the ears of the snake come out
well-molded.
Your gate must be very thin at the entrance of the animal & of the
thickness of a knife.
🝋 From small rolls, you make your gates and vents without danger of
crusting & removing anything from the mold, because the
wax, being taken away, leaves the empty space all made. Make
your vents coming from the head, which is in the bottom, toward the
gate. Make also your gate so that it is toobut a
little thick, and make within its course two or three notches, for
this breaks up the fury of the metal and makes it flow with ease,
without bubbling nor making excessive fumes, which hinders its run. You
can divide it also in two or three branches thus
when it approaches the molded thing, and always make holes in the
gate.& from these conduits & feeders, you can also
put in small threads of wax which are joined to the body, in
order that the metal goes more easily from one part to another
& promptly runs everywhere. And from these conduits, you lead your
gate & your vents without spoiling anything.
PlasterWhen you v mold something to cast wax in it, you
mold in plaster alone, reheated after being pulverized.
For, once reheated in stone, the outside is cooked & the
inside stays almost raw. Transparent grey plaster is not strong, but the one
that, being tempered, is white & sets very
quickly, is good. However, the grey I have found to be quite firm & hard
after having set, but its takes longer to do so. One needs to know the
nature of each. If you You will never mold very neatly if
ne you do not temper, very thin &
liquid, your plaster or your sand of noyau. Temper it
immediately quickly after it has been reheated.
+
If you mold with plasterraw alone, reheat it
nevertheless as said. One needs to oil well the first
mold. And when the second one has set well, and it is ready,
soak it for a long time in water. And if it does not want to
release, soak it in hot water, for cold water hardens it.
ScimitarsTo knowThe workers from Damascus or from
Hungary, neighbors to the Turks, separate, in the
ore, iron from steel. And, from this
first steel, first melted from its ore, they
cast scimitar blades in sandsab which afterward cut the other iron without any difficulty,
because any melted iron is harder than soft iron
beaten from pigs & bars. Thus is the steel of scimitars, but
it is quite brittle. When one un-hilts b a scimitar,
one recognizes by the tang that enters the hilt that it is cast in
sand.
Hearing from afar
Make a small hole in the earth, & place your ear fully
there, at night or at a silent time, & you will easily
hear the noise.
And hot water softens it further. Cold water does not
penetrate it like it does with the mixed one, because it is harder &
the mixed one is more spongy.With this plaster, thus reheated as
powder, one can cast medals that do not fear the rain,
especially if they are varnished. One can find these in
Germany, on the houses. But take heed that the water be
very hot, & if it is boiling, there is no danger. All
plaster molds, alone or mixed, release in it.
Secret
Vipers and snakes
I molded a viper, which, for casting, is more appropriate than
any other snake because it has scales beautiful & very
visible on all the body & principally on the head and under the
throat. It has a flat head, the snout reddish, tending toward
incarnadine, & snubbed like the horned asp or like
un the top of a pig's snout, big jowls, the
eyes very close to the snout, and the mouth wide open, where it
has double canine teeth on each side, all coming out of a
strip of flesh that covers and clothes them. It also has, in the throat,
a tube of flesh, made like a dog’s penis, from which comes its
stinger. Other snakes have a double row of teeth.
If you want cutthe to mold the snakes
with the mouth open, you must cut off the head & leave it inside, for
it will not be released.
Molding turtles
It is a matter different from the casting of snakes, &
plants, and flowers because the cavities that are between the two shells
require several pieces. They are molded in plaster to be cast in
sugar without making a gate as do all things that you
want.
Plaster for casting of wax
When you want to cast in wax in the plaster mold,
you must know as secret that there is need for your mold to be
in hot water. Never does the animal come out so neatly than in
metal, because the wax sticks. But it is to model an
animal as close to nature, et to repair
it afterward. One needs to smooth well away all the scales, when for
wax would enter there & not release well. In molding thus
the animal, flatten down the scales forwax &, on
the contrary, rub them in reverse in order that they stand up for
animals, for they will only be more visible. Also, do not wait for the
wax to a bit cool completely to release it,
but do so when it is still a bit warm. When you have also molded the
first cast of the animal, uncover well the half, in order that, in its
release, there is as much of it in one half of the mold as in the other. Make also strong wide gates, close to the animal, in order that it is fortified
when it is released, & afterward you cut this off.
+Alabaster, commonly called so, which is nevertheless
plaster, is very hard but it shrinks a lot. It is very good to
make medals, but it wants to be very finely sieved.
Molding fruits and animals in sugarSugar is fatty when runny and brittle & breakable
when dry, and with it, one casts well round things & large
muscles, but awkwardly things fine & delicate. However, try well-clarified sugar. One needs to soak for one night
or one day the plaster mold before
casting the sugar, in order that it is very full of water
& does not imbibe the syrup. One needs also for it to be of
easy release, for the sugar is sour & brittle. Finally, do
not consider casting anything in sugar that does not release well
and that cannot be neatly molded in two halves, to open it when you will
need to. If you want to mold a bunch of grapes, one needs to
take it, like any other fruit, in its true vigor, for if it is withered,
it will ne come out that way. Take heed, therefore,
to make your molds in the natural season of
que all things. The grapes that are
usually wanted cast in sugar can be made artificially or with
wax or earth, or even with some grapes attached
with some melted wax on some slab & other full
thing, so that they are very close together and release well, & only
make up one half. Or, if you have some of those grapes called
chauchés or sauvignons, which have the grapes
very close together, encase half of them on in the
clay slab and cast on the other half. And if some
grape is not released, pluck it out. Note that neither in
sugar, nor in metal, can a bunch which has light &
separated grapes be cast properly, because the end of the bunch
is so delicate, especially if the grapes are kept, that it could not
sustain the large grapes. Thus, you will need to cast
hollow, which you could not do if the bunch does not have the
grapes close together & molds without having them
scattered & spread apart.
To cast pears & apples in sugar, one ought
not to make any gates, but rather, fill one half of the mold and
then join the two, and keep turning it until the sugar has set
and is cold. One ought to mix nothing in the mold apart from
plaster, reheated as you know.
+
One needs for the mold to have soaked one day
and one night in cold waterfor, and
to be humid, when you cast in sugar.
The sign that the syrup or the sugar melted in water is sufficiently
cooked to cast fruits, is when it makes threads when shaking it. And
if it passes that point, it is not good, for it will always be humid. If
the sugar attaches to it, one needs to throw some
wheat starch in the mold or rub it with an
almond.
Crocum ferriIt is much sooner made with iron rust than with
filings. For if the vinegaris good, you will
see it boil with large bubbles as if it on the rust,
as if it were on the fire; on the filings, it does not boil
unless it is put on the fire or hot ashes. However, when the
filings are passed through vinegar, & you have made it
evaporate & heat up, & it is very red, if you do this again for a
second time, the vinegar will have much more strength, & the
crocum will only be finer for it, & redder. Those who
use it to cast in goldven buy the
ounce for forty or fifty sous.
It does not harden the molds, and, in scraping, one cannot tell
that they are harder from it. But it makes the mold less dense,
and it drinks in and attracts the gold better.
PlasterYou can mold with it as large a piece as you please. But if you take
your molds from large works & pieces of wood, it
will not release well unless you boil make your wood
imbibe very hot wax. For the wood absorbs & drinks
& in this way attracts the plaster. You can assume the same
thing for any other large piece of work. But the cure is to
l’ab saturate l’ouvra with very
hot wax the work on which you want to cast your plaster. For
by this means, it will not drink it up & will release very
neatly.
If the plaster shrinks, it will always make flashing. Seek the hard
kind and it put your molds well in the press before
casting.It is not good when it
shrinks.
Plants difficult to burn in the noyauAny plant which has a hard stem & like wood is very
difficult to burn in the noyau, such as asparagus,
thyme, & similar things, because they stay as charcoal
in the small conduits, & if they do not reduce well into
ashes, it is not possible to empty them from the mold.
Some reheat them, to do this, two or d three
times. Others, putting several plants together in the mold,
pass through threads the plants & theesmoldscircle of earth,
which is to receive the tempered sand, plusi
This does not proceed from plants that have a stem with lines, because
rosemary burns well, but it is in the nature of certain
plants.
some threads, as much to secure the plants, in order that they do not
rise par when you throw in your clear sand, as to
give them venting when the mold is reheated. For, in doing this,
the moldthread burns & leaves some
empty space around the plants, which serves as vents & places for
evacuating, & to give air to the plants so that they burn better.
For what makes them stay as charcoal is that they burn in a
closed fire & without empty space because of their fine sprigs. Try,
therefore, to thicken the main stem with a little melted wax,
& let it cool, then mold it. And when the wax melts, it airs
it, the principal stem, with space & as if loose so that it burns
better. Or else, anoint them with oil of petrol or
sulfur, ofturpentine, oil of
brick & similar things, or aquafortis or
eau-de-vie, or make sands with crocum, iron
scales, loops of iron, emery & things that
withstand several days of great firing.Animal bones are not so difficult to burn & reduce to
ashes, because once the flesh is burnt, the bones
remain loose & the weight of the quicksilver makes them break
& disintegrate, once calcined & burnt.Asparagus always stays as charcoal, like little pins.
Try to take it, and thyme, at the beginning, when they are
growing, so that their stem is still thin.
Molds of plaster for waxWhen your mold of plaster is done & dried, take
heed that your mold be of good release, for sometimes it
happens that the animal, being wounded or thin & withered, makes
wrinkles, where retire its scales are, where the plaster enters. And this not being of good release,
the wax animal would attaches itself & break & you would never
have it perfect. Take heed also to make your gates for the
wax very wide. Thus, & the gates should not be too thick.
They are made when the animal is
the molds have been made from both sides & the animal is
outside of it.
Founders’ earthIt is terre bolvene mixed with dung or
cloth waste, which withstands fire, which you need to always have
provision of to lute your molds that ont
b are meant to serve for casting silver & that one needs to
reheat. Those where one needs to burn some flower or animal should not
be luted until they have been reheated once, and they have been cleaned
of bones & ashes remaining inside, and, having removed
the clamps, you have opened the two halves to see if
they are cracked. For there is plaster that is not so
hard in the fire, one as the other. Moreover, there is some
which makes crusty the things which stay burning inside. And these are
imperfections that one needs to avoid, either by by bathing
well with eau-de-vie the animal before casting in the tempered sand,
or mixing in more or less brick or alum, or reheating the
brick more, or in place of the brick, mixing in
crucible bottoms & similar things which resist well
in the fire. Having therefore reheated your mold to burn it
inside, leave to cool well. And if it is neat & not cracked, put
the clamps back & lute it with this aforesaid
founders’ earth & sprinkle a little sifted ash
& let dry a little. But keep yourself from lutingthat they are
not until the molds are cold. Those for casting
silver, where there is nothing to burn inside, only need, except
when the gate & vents are made, luting & reheating once. Do not
lute the end of the mold where you want to make your gate,
but leave it uncovered & the exit of the vent as well. Ifthe moldsthat were
doto crack, it ismade thus at the
first reheating, for at the second, they no longer crack.The smallestmolds are reheated more quickly.
Take the, therefore, the first reheated ones when you cast, for
you can put several of them to reheat.Light the charcoals first, in the forge or in some other
place nearby, & having placed your molds on a layer of good
embers, not burning too much, to have a slow fire at the beginning, put
there & adjust a little the half-lit charcoals in the
forge.
The earth that founders use to braze or solder, which
is sandy clay earth, or else clay mixed with sand, after
having dried & sieved & then composed it, is good for
luting your molds because this earth melts rather than
cracks. And any earth that melts is cannot be lacking
in this.Iron wire to give it bond.Lute thickly your molds, & if they are small, you can
reheat them immediately in a good fire, especially those of
crocum.
If the earth is good, & l does not crack
while reheating, & does not separate from the mold, the
molds will also not crack & will not make flashing at the
casting. Reheat with slow ease in a closed fire, & do not expose them
hot to the air.Lute rather thickly in two or three layers, especially right in the
joints, in order that the silver does not come out of the
mold.
Reheat in a reverberatory furnace.
To test if your earth is good, before putting it on your
mold, luteat the place of the fo wall of
the forge which is around the blast-pipe &
barrel of the bellows, & light the fire, & if it withstands
this without cracking, it will be good.
Casting in silver and gold
Wanting to melt, always put for these two metals
a small stone of pulverized borax at the bottom of
the crucible & the gold and silver on top.
This makes it so that if the crucible gives off some vapor or
sour fumes, it will not impair these two metals. For
gold in particular, this is good.
If you have several molds to cast, do not think of filling them
in one cast, for the metal would be cold. But having cast while
hot & filling one, remelt & cast in the other. When your mold starts to redden on the inside, &
when the castloses its blackness,then put your & when
looking inside the cast you you do not see
plasa single point of blackness,
continue to maintain it in this heat &, if need be, add in some half-lit charcoals with your pincers. However,
com put in the forge your
crucible with a little ground borax at the bottom, &
the silver that you want to cast in your
forgeshould be on top, letting your
crucible reheat between the lit charcoals
juswithout blowing until it is red, for
before, one ought not to blow. And when you do blow, push in a longish
& continuous movement the bellows, giving them a little
shake when pushing & another when pulling toward you. In this way,
the heat becomes stronger. ComNeTake heed to raise sometimes your
cruciblewith the with hot pincers,
becauseilif it is placed right in front of the
blast-pipe & the bellowbwind builds the wind of the bellows hits
the crucible, it will cool your silver rather than
heating it. Make sure that the lit charcoals support it from above the
blast-pipe, & take care that it is at a distance of
three good fingers from the wall of the
forge. In this way, it heats better. Therefore, when your
silver starts to melt, if you recognize that it is brittle,
seeing cracked & burst lumps, take the size of a
hazelnut of arsenic & two times as much of
raw tartar, coarsely pulverized, for in this way, they have more
ability to heat. And occasionally throw it in the crucible on the
silver, which clarifies it. But if you have some of that crust sublimated on a metal substance, which looks like
grain of steel, as previously described, take a little
of that, leaving # the others, & throw it
on your melted silver.
Some let the silver rest a little outside before casting.Gold and silver, melted with the aforesaid things, scarcely
become porous.
For gold, one does not need das much
tincrocum as feather alum.
Small molds are reheated quickly, but big & small ones
should dry beforehand in the furnace, for the humidity of the
mold, by theefo heat of the
furnace, is attracted outside. But the fierce heat of the
charcoals chases it from the exterior through the inside.
All alloyed silver produces film, and all other
metal as well.Silver does not want to be uncovered when melted.
#Coarsely pulverized
A lump of adulterated silver vitrifies in red because of the
arsenic & orpiment.
You will see that it will torment it & heat it very well and soon
render it very liquid & ready to cast and be clarified, as it should
be. When it is in this state & when it is very white and polished,
shining like quicksilver, prepare yourself to cast. And to this
effect, have some lean delicate sand, in a
terrine or another vessel, that you would
like to help yourself to. Make a pit in your sand, then, with your
pincers, take your well-reddened mold & place it
in this pit of sand. Cover immediately the opening of your mold
in order that no ash & dust enters inside, & then
enclose it with sand up to the edge of the gate & the vents. This done,
uncover your mold & throw on top of your well-melted
silver, the size of a pea or thereabouts, some
of this metallic grain, which will immediately spread through
all your silver & make it boil & turn. Cast as soon as
you have put in this substance, for it is this that is the secret to
making the silver run, since its crust heats it & clarifies
it. You can cast silver finer than the alloy from the capital
and like that of the real, but you must add this
grain in.
With all of this, do not let yourself forget to put, before all things,
a little borax in the melted silver, for even though
goldsmiths do not put any in, nevertheless it is good, and I have
seen it practised well. Next, one puts in the crust of the substance at
two different times & then the metallic thing. Then make sure that
it be placed at the end of your forge.
If you want to blow the ash that is around your mold when
you hold it between the pincers, hold it with the opening at
the bottom, & blow.
When silver is well melted, you can uncover it and blow with the
small bellows, not continually like with gold, but only
to cast out the charcoals in order to put in the substances that
make it run.
Whitening of cast silver
Because one commonly casts in base silver, & especially the
Germans, and that such an alloy readily makes a film
or crust, which is contrary tooursomegoldsmithsfrom France are usually quick
to whiten their works, especially rough ones, because they only
use common bullitoyre, which is tartar &
common salt, nearly as much of one as the other. But I
have seen an excellent German working thus. Having in my
presence cast a little lizard with an alloy of
teston, he made a greyish noi crust.
And to clean it from it, he boiled it in the above-mentioned
bullitoyre of tartar & pulverizedcommon saltand mixed with common water, in the
fire of his forge. Once taken out, he brushed it. And
because it was not as clean of this crust as he fancied, he burned some
tartarin some paper until it was
black & no longer smoked. Then, he wetted the aforesaid tartard with the water of bullitoyre,
composed of salt & tartar, & covered all his
lizard with it. Then, he put it between the live ofcharcoals of his forge & blew a little. When the
lizard was red, he took it out, let it cool, then reheated it
in the bullitoyre. Next, he brushed it in
clear water.
+
Note that the bullitoyre for silver is never good
in a crucible because the water, taking the form of the
ftartar, evaporates. But the vessel
for boiling, being of copper, is excellent for the whitening of
silver & for the mixture which colors gold.
He took heed not to let his water of tartar boil so much that it
would have poured out on top, because then its strength goes away. Therefore, when this first fury of boiling comes, remove it from the fire & put it
back. He held as a secret this burned tartar put on top for
base silver.
Painting plants of metalIf you are in a hurry, it would be better to mix your color with a
not-too-thick gumor because oil takes a
long time to dry and runs if it is layered thinly,
as the plants require. And if you still want it done promptly,
temper your color with glair beaten with peelings of the fig tree,
and your work will soon be dry. But layer it
thinly.
For wormseed The pallid white of this herb is made from vert de terre,
white lead or ceruse, a bit of massicot, stil de
grain yellow, and cendré of azure. Mix & compose
your color according to a natural branch that you will have.
Viper color
It is the most beautiful snake that can be molded, because it
has very beautiful scales, & hard & transparent. Its true color
is made with good verdigris ground well with some good
vinegar, if it is of lead or tin. And if it is in some
place darker, fumigate this first color with sulfur, as you
know. And if one needs to lighten and whiten, like under the throat, rub
with coarse linen. The male ejects from its
nature, which is at the bottom, when it is
firmly pressed, a little mass like half an arquebus ball
made in the genitals and full of very venomous spurs.
+ Put a bit of metalline in your
tin & your lizard will resemble silver.
Molded roses
They are awkward to mold because the petals are very fine & weak
& doubled. But, to obl avoid this, one needs to
anoint them with wheat oil, which is very dessicative. And having
quickly dried, it firms & stiffens the petals to be able to separate
them & withstand the tempered sand. The same is done with flies,
with pansies & similar delicate things, with flowers from
the caper plant.
Animals dried in the oven for a long
time
Plant them on a slab of earth, arranging them with
points of iron wire, as if you wanted to mold them, and
they dry them in an ovenafter the bread
has been taken out. And they always remain thus, as much for
snakes, as birds and other things. But it is
necessary that they be dried promptly.
Note that one needs to give them their shape & put them in the sand,
as with flowers, & promptly dry them in the oven, which is
hot enough, like when one takes out the bread. And it
should stay there a day & a night in order that
it is chau dry, for otherwise it would be
smelly. However, take heed that the oven not be too
harsh, but rather like the heat of the sun in
June, otherwise the animals cook. Once dry, do not
wet them, but clean them with a paintbrush or clean them
with a brush.
Animals cast in copperTry, d having cast them in copper, to burnish
them like gemstone foils, to see if they take color
similarly.
Advice concerning the gate
Ne Be careful to not make your gate very wide, and do not
forget to make in its conduit two or three holes and notches, & as
your gate approaches the ch molded thing, divide it
into three or four parts like fingers which are pointed &
are not very deep. For the metal runs more gently without being
hindered by vapors & fumes.Always make the entry of your gate near the medal notched & lumpy,
to draw out the fury of the metal.
Spider molded on a leaf
The very big ones usually have hairy feet, which are
vexing to mold if you do not lay them flat, or burn them with a
candle, or stiffen them & lay them flat with
some, anointing them with wheat oil. Kill
them in vinegar & urine, like snakes&, or in eau-de-vie, and then shape them on a
well-made vine leaf or other thing. Next, you can give them back their
capricious hair with bourr the sieved
fine hair of cloth waste, having anointed them with a with
fish glue or similar. Their true color is of
vinegar & verdet, & then fumigate them in various
places with sulfur. Having made your tourtclay slab, place on it your vine leaf, and the
dead spider in the middle, & pierce with a point of
iron or latten wire the middle of the spider’s body
& the leaf together. Next, place diagonally small points of
latten wire around the vine leaf to secure it well.
Then fix, with a little melted wax and the point of a hot
iron wire, the end of the legs, adapting them with the end
of small pincers. Do the same thing with the end of the
small cornicles of the spider. Return 🜊To make the gate for the spider on the leaf and to
prevent the sand from covering the spider from underneath the
belly, furnish the end of the tail & the bottom of the body with a
little wax, melted & applied with the hot iron
wire, as you know. In this way, when the leaf burns & the
wax is melted, there will remain two little holes in the leaf
which will be the gate of the spider.
🜊
Once the wax is cool, scrape the excess with the point of a
penknife in order that the end of the legs stay neat. Next,
place the circle of earth around & cast your tempered
sand, like for other things. In this manner, you will need to burn the
vine leaf in the mold, otherwise not. And to cast more
easily, let the animal die fully, in order that, when struggling, it does
not mix up its legs. Having made your first cast, uncover the reverse of
the leaf and make the second cast.
Animals dried in an ovenSmall scats are skinned and one
removes their eyes & all their entrails. One puts a small
stick vertically between their teeth to make them open their mouths
wide. Then with iron points one attaches their feet to a
small board, giving them the fitting attitude & gait. Once
thus attached by their feet with small rings of iron
wire thus, one needs to suspend them in the sun
with the backbone downward. In this manner they take
&d their shape & dry, & the belly
tightens & the tail remains high or with the bend that you will
have given it. Once a little dry by this means, one turns the head
as one wants, securing it with some tool. Then one finishes drying it in
an oven when the bread is drawn. Next, one places in the
hollow of the eyes balls of lead or of wax, painted
according to nature. One paints them with well-gummed ink so that
they seem to be jet. One gives it a painted tongue, horns, wings &
similar fancies. Thus for rats & all animals.
which, surrounding the fingers of the paws, stick in
the jacket of clay.
For reddening live crayfish, which will seem
boiled
Rub them in quite good vinegar in which there should be a
little eau-de-vie & hardly any, & they can be served as
cooked & will move around.
Molding a single spiderOne needs to plant it on the clay slab, as has been
said, on a vine leaf, and make there your first cast; & once
it has set, uncover the spider up to half its legs, then make the
second cast.In order The hairy feet of large
spiders, like any animal hair, does not mold well if it is not
flattened, having anointed it with wheat oil, which
stiffens it & is quickly dry. Hairy things mix with the sand &
do not burn well.
Molding a single vine leaf
Plant it with the points of fine ironlatten
wire & place diagonally on the clay slab,
then cast the first mold. When it has set, uncover the
back reverse & make the second cast, which once set, you
can take away the leaf. And you will need to reheat your mold
only once, because there will be nothing to burn.
Molding a crabIt is a secret and a masterpiece to mold it well, because one needs
to proceed differently than with other animals, because its shell is
very difficult to mold burn & in this case, one
le needs to sometimes reheat the mold three
or four times. And with all of this, it leaves a hard crust, grey like
ash. But because it does not mold in one piece & one cast
like plants, but rather in two casts like snakes that release
well, one removes this crust, not with quicksilver, which
would do nothing, after it
has been opened, with the very fine point of a penknife with
dexterity, as with the little crusts of the second cast, which enter in
the nooks that the sand or the molded animal made. But,
la because it has curved legs, here is the cunning & secret for releasing it. Therefore, as you have molded it on
one side, which is on the back, in the same fashion as others, uncover its
belly & all its curved legs. Make your second cast in the same fashion
as others, but as it will have set, keep from opening the mold
until you have first reheated it well. Otherwise, because of its curved
legs, you would break everything. In this lies the dexterity. If you
recognize, after having reheated & opened it, that the crust is not
burned enough, reheat until it is.
It is painted like a crayfish.Know thatFor opening the mold, there is
no need to soak it, for once reheated, it will open by itself.
Stag beetleIt is as difficult to burn as a crab, therefore do for it
as you did for the crab.
For molding thin
After you have molded en noyaulae figur the first mold, let it dry well
before taking away the figure of wax, in order in order
that the mold does not corrupt. Next, make a small lasagna of
paste of such thickness as you would like, and having anointed
with butteryour the hollow of your first hollow
mold, adapt the paste to it, and then make your second
mold on top. If you were to anoint with oil, it would be
absorbed & would not be as appropriate as butter.
Plants that are awkward to burn in the moldMold them with two or three casts, which, once reheated, will open,
& it will be easier for you to take away the charcoal from
inside.Trial
Letters and molded paperWrite with well gummed ink or with any color which has body
& which does not erase once moistened with eau-de-vie.
Then, place your paper on a clay slab &
moisten it with eau-de-vie and cast on one side & the
other.
For adorning beds, mirrors, and
suchlike
Rough out some design in half relief on a quite flat
slate to adapt it to either round or flat things. And having
cast it in mixed tin, quite thin, you can gild it with
gold leaf & adapt it to whatever you want, and fill the
vui bottom of the relief with small rubies,
orpiment & little grains of diverse colors.
For teaching a dogei well
It is necessary to keep it tied up, & when it does what you
command it, to make it love you, give it some cheese that has
been held under your armpit. Which must be a bad drug, & for
the master, if he is red-haired, & for the apprentice
too.
Molded waxesFigures of wax composed of ceruse & lead
white are not for burning & melting in a mold where you
want to cast gold & silver, for this would sour it.
And then, if you think about taking away these waxes composed of
things coming from the metals reheated in the mold, you
will be wrong, because, the asperity of the fire making them boil
ir, the wax goes away & the composition
of the ceruse or other metallic color attacks the mold.
And for this reason, if you want to rough out something
+NotaWhite wax is more delicate than the other & it does not leave
any filth when you want to make noyau and mold
hollow.
in a round form to cast it in gold and silver, put
only in your wax what you prepare for this effect
sino from all these drugs, except casting with
melted sulfur, since it is melted, & candle
smoke. The melted sulfur goes to the bottom and nevertheless
leaves its quality in the wax, making it melt promptly in the fire
& giving it firmness. In this way, you can melt in the fire this
roughed out ci figure of wax. But if it is
composed of ceruse or suchlike, it is necessary that you
put your mold in boiling water.
For figures of flat wax, there is no need for all this, for the
wax releases & does not stay in the lamold.
When the cast of tin or lead becomes porous
If your cast work has become porous, it can be repaired with very hard
wax which you can gild afterward with silver or
gold. To prevent this, if you cast thin, the alloy of one
℥d’est of lead for
one lb of tin is good. But if you cast with leadfor a thick thing, one needs for one lb of the
latter, two ℥ of tin, for the
lead, being fatty & weighty, carries more. From this alloy, I
cast a large lizard like a natural one. In thick things,
if which keep their heat a long time, if there is little
tin, it makes it porous. Your mold must not be cold, but
of such a heat that you can handle it without harm, or that you can
keep your finger in the gate without burning yourself.
It is also necessary that your lead or tin be as if red.
Melt first the lead & then the alloy of tin on top.
And as you want to cast, put a piece of rosin & then a
little looking-glass tin. If you put too
much lead into the tin, it does not run very thin. And to know
this, if l the tincries loudly,
it is a sign there is not too much lead. If it cries weakly, that
means that is there is too much. Take heed
You can solder with the l’es same substance,
then repair it with the burin, file,
chaple & suchlike.Tin is a metal that penetrates, that becomes porous &
burns, and is fanciful to use, more than gold and
silver.Lead wants not only to be red, but also lively & runny &
liquid as water, which is a sign of its perfect heat, & the
moldch is so hot that you can bear putting
your finger in it. Do not open until it is
cooled. It is a sign of a good cast, as much for it as for gold
& silver, when it exits by the vents.
not to open your mold too hot, for this sours it, makes it
porous & contracts the tin, & makes the molded thing
break. Also, do not quench your hot mold in water, for
this makes the le mettin or lead
contract.
Mold made in two casts
It is opened, once reheated, to clean it; next, one puts the
clamps on again, one lutes the mold &
especially the joints, then one slowly dries the earth. And then,
as it no longer smokes, one leaves the mold to cool until you can
hold it without harm. Next, put in the presses or in the sand
in a terrine, & cast in tin. For if you
were to cast in silver or gold, it would be necessary that
your mold be reheated twice & cast when it would be completely
red.
If your moldf, through the fault of the
plaster, retracts in the fire, you need to open it
after the first reheating to tighten it again, & clamp it
and lute again, and tighten again.
Method for reheating the moldsLight charcoals in the forge, & then arrange
them in rows in a corner of it, according to the size of your
mold, in such a way that it can be furnished with three or 4
fingers all around, and especially at the bottom of
the mold, which is the thickest and which. Your
charcoals thus arranged, place your molds on top of
them, & not on a grate, as some do, because they
would take the fire too harshly. And leave for some time thus, &
little & by little, warm your oven, always adding some lit
charcoal. And as long as the mold is damp, the
charcoals will be as if died down from below. But as it dries,
they will kindle by themselves. And when it is dry on one side, turn it to
the other. And when it is dry on both, & it will no longer smoke. At
that moment, invigorate the fire & cover it with lit
charcoals. And as it will begin to redden, do not blow the
charcoals with the little bellows, for this would make it
blow burst. And similarly, when it is red, keep it well
covered with lit charcoals & do not uncover it, for it would
crack. Make sure wind from a window does not beat upon it. Let
cool
When you want to reheat your molds, & be they
luted or not, mark on the belly the place to put at the bottom,
against the lit charcoals, que because if the
ardor of the fire were to make them crack, it would be better that this be
at the belly & from underneath than on the back.
If your mold is small, one ought not to leave it
rest so much in the fire, for it corrupts and cracks there,
for it reheats more quickly than a big one.
by itself. When it begins to redden, it is soon red everywhere.
But make sure, through the gate, that it is red at the bottom & that
nothing appears black.
Common sand from the mineIn a frame, if one casts hot, it becomes porous; therefore,
one only needs to dry it out.
Crocum ferriHaving d passed it through vinegar &
reddened it in the fire, I had it finely ground on porphyry,
until no roughness was perceived on the fingernail. Then,
I wet it with very good vinegar &
left it therea two or three days, stirring
it several times each day. Finally, I boiled it
& reddened in the pot &
crocum all together in the four à
vent. It came back in a mass full of small bubbles, but that
can be pulverized very finely between the fingers. I
put some in the sand, ahalf as much as
feather alum. I tempered the sand quite thinly & molded
out of it a very small female lizard, which molded very neatly &
delicately & very finely. The crocum ferri does not
render the mold harder, but it firms it. And when your
mold is soft & fatty when scraping it with the
fingernail, it is a sign that the crocum is
good, very fine, & well prepared. The quantity cannot spoil the
mold, because it is a friend to gold. And I believe that
silver would come out well. And that the mold, through
this means, does not crack. Make it from filings of
needles.
I have tried to make it so the molds where it is mixed do not crack
during reheating & thus do not make flashing.
It is better made with distilled vinegar.
One can put some amongst the molds, where you want to cast
silver, for it firms the molds, and you will find it so,
by scraping a little harder than the other where there is none. It molds
very neatly.
This one is appropriate for all molds & keeps them from
breaking & bursting in the fire. And for flat medals, it withstands
several casts. The one of steel fillings & needles is redder
& better.
Gilding animals cast in silverYou can gild them with amalgam without spoiling any
of the features, if they are made of silver.
Hard wax for imprinting seals
It is made from white wax, which is harder than the other,
& one mixes in very finely ground ceruse or lead white until
it becomes as hard as you fancy u, adding to it a
drop of turpentine to bind it. Next, mix in whatever
color you want. This is the waxgoldsmiths use for
modeling.
Feet of smalls female lizards for
gold and silverBecause the feet of these, which are very small, are very delicate,
when you have molded the top and d you uncover the belly
& the bottom of the feet, cover them lightly with wax &
then cast the second mold. And the wax being removed, it
will leave a g little gate for the said feet. And
should the bottom of these come off in one piece, you can repair it well. And
the scales from the top of the toes will come out well.
At the end of the nails of large lizards, placemake on each one a little circle of wax, to make the
gate thus:
Marks from the points of iron wire which are found
on the head of the animal
L With the points, one has previously
set the stance, especially that of the head. But the head being pierced,
there remains around the hole some moisture and a little exudation,
which hinders the sand from covering the point & there
always remains some little opening g. But to avoid
this, you can plant in the slab of earth an
iron point, arro cleaned &
rounded at the top end, & on this end place there a little hard
wax or du a little mastic or
cement and, by means of the hot iron
wire, hold in place the throat of the animal, which can be removed
when you come to uncover the belly & the throat to make the second
cast.
Clamps and broken moldWhen you have made the first reheating & removed the
clamps, and you have the opened your mold
to clean it by blowing with quicksilver, which is used only in
enclosed molds, close the mold again & put the
clamps on again, but not in the first place where they were.
Lute again & dry again. But if it is for a cast with
silver or gold, lute with the remainder of the sand
that was used, for it is the safest. If your mold, while
reheating, is broken, you can adjust it with some clamps &
lute.
X
Bubbles and little holes which are found in the
mold
This readily comes about when you cast two or three small
molds, one after the other, in the same bowl, for the last
one is cast from the bottom & thickest of the bowl,
which readily becomes porous. The thinnest casts more finely & more
neatly, provided that one blows strongly enough when casting on the tempered
& cast sand in order to dissipate these small bubbles.
When the sand is cast thickly, it readily becomes porous
Thing that does not release
One needs to cut it to make it burn in the mold, but cut it
with chisels in one go, in order that the blood does
not fall on the mold & does not create filth, which,
once reheated, is difficult to remove. Next, put your mold in
the oven or similar heat, in order that it dries promptly &
retracts before making a crust or mold on the
mold.
+
When you mold small female lizards and you want to uncover the part
first molded, begin to uncover the heads & you will recognize its
place by the pin. Do not attempt to uncover the legs until you
have uncovered the rest of the body, in order that the stripped body, as
it moves, does not remove the legs from their place, where it is
vexing to put them back. When you remove the little points which
hold the legs, fix them & press them with something, in order that,
when removing the pin, they are not removed from their place,
or, in the end, you can put them back with some wax.
Various animals entwined
You can entwine a snakeentwine with a
lizard, one biting the other, or a snake that eats a
frog or a wall lizards &
suchlike. But because these entwinings can in no way make a good
release, cut what you can & leave the rest to burn. And to keep a
wall lizard, which is small, in the mouth of the
snake, which is raised & needs to be supported in the air,
po, because the head of the snake is posed
raised, put underneath the wall lizardse
an elevation of earth suited to support it. And if you put your
mold in the oven, the animal, drying promptly, will retract
& will burn better afterward. if you see These entwinings are
also made to cover a wound or fault in the animals, which one usually
wounds when one catches them. Also, do not forget to attach & join
with some waxs, finely applied with hot
iron wire, all the parts of the animal which pass one on top
of the other or those that you notice are not well fixed on the
waxearthen slab, in order that the tempered sand
does not remove it. And it is to
avoid putting points, which should not be put except at the
raising of the head, at the thickest places of the body & the simple
& delicate parts in the middle of the lizard’s feet, the
nails of which you will enter into the clay slab, in
order that they remain secure. When you have made the first cast &
uncovered the belly of the animal, do not forget to put small thin
sslabs of wax at the end of the
lizard’s legs. But, if it is a small wall lizard,
lightly cover with wax the entire bottom of the foot,
and and this the wax, being removed after
the second cast, leaves a cavity which fills these small fingers with
metal, & then one repairs them. Take heed therefore to attach
well with wax the parts of the animal which pass one over the
other, in order that the wetted sand entering between two does not take it
away. And if For, if this were to happenmold
would corrupt, the shape in the first place would
spoil corrupt & your mold also, because it would
not have the thickness that it you think & would be
pierced & spoiled. And, even though to avoid this you can make the
mold thicker, however, should l this mishap
happen, you will be able to repair it in this way.
For mending a pierced mold
If the molded animal comes away in some place to not have and
deviates from the stance that you gave it, because it was not quite dead
or because it was not well attached with the iron points
or with melted wax, and it does not have the thickness that it
needs on the outside, at the middle of the swelling, or is pierced,
before removing the animal from inside, uncover what seems to you the
weak part, or the place that is pierced, and make small holes
all around all around, then soak the back of the
mold. And cast promptly on top of the sametempered sand,
which will enter in these openings & mold & attach to the other.
But, one will need to lute this place well afterward.
Sand of crocum
One can use the mixture of crocum ferri in
molds for silver as well as for gold, for it
firms them & keeps them from cracking & making flashing. And I
believe that for flat things it would withstand bien
de several casts, which, however, for gold &
silver is hardly practiced.
Try, for lead & tin, crocum.
For making ☀ run
Verdigris & sal ammoniac, as much of one as the
other, borax & saltpeter, as much of one as
the other. But the sborax &
sel armosaltpeter together must only weigh
half of the others, that is to say, as much together as the
verdigris. Grind them finely into powder on
marble, then grind them again with some good strong
vinegar until it is fine, like a couleur and
verdet ground in oil. Next, leave it to dry on its own, if
you have time, or in the fire lent of the
forge, & make sure it is well dry.
Grindspider
One of the principal things for the cast is to cast very
gec hot, s especially the great
metals.
For casting of gold in large works
One needs not only to clamp the molds well but to
fortify them with good bindings of iron wire or little
bands made for this.
Before casting in gold, clean your forge well of
lead & tin.
Secret for solderinggold and silver in
small works
If some piece of small foot does not come out well in gold or
silver, by fault of not having made a gate of
wax underneath, beat some soldering gold very thinly, then cut it in
as many small spangles as you need. Take some of this phlegm
or white thick which saliva that is found on
the teeth, & with the point of a burin,
apply it to the place you want to solder, & place there a
little spangle of gold; & next, with a little fat
earth wetted with saliva, make a small layer on the
opposite side to hold the solder better. Next, pulverize on top a
little borax & put in the fire. Boiled water of
quince seed & others also.
Couleur for gold or mixture
Verdigris & sal ammoniac, as much of one as the
other, & as much as a bean of
saltpeter. For if you put a quantity in it, it would make it all boil
so much that it would boil over. Saltpeter is only put in to make
it boil, in order that one recognizes when the substance has boiled
enough. This couleur, put on brittle melted gold,
renders it soft immediately.Softening gold
Gate
It is necessary that it be longish with regard to the thing that you
molded. And for big molds, at the very least, it is necessary
that it have four or five fingers of length. You can
make it wide up until the middle & then divide it in three points in
this way. And as much as the molded thing will be small, it is also necessary
that your points be small. And in the middle of the gate & of its
points, make there some openings in order to prevent the fury of the
metal & make it run gently. One also needs to
c conjoin the folded parts of the animal with little
notched lines, a especially the end of the tail or
other delicate part, in order that the metal flows everywhere
& carries itself from e l one part to the
other.
Do not forget to make a gate of wax for the feet of
lizards & delicate things like this.
When you have molded an animal in the first part of the
mold, do not let this part dry before you have taken away the
said animal, for the mold, in drying, contracts and would also
make the animal contract. Keep it therefore in some moist &
humid place until you have done it.
Vine leaf and small frog
Take vine leaves to mold as they are in growth, likewise with
all plants & flowers, or a young vine growing again after
having been cut, or when they rebud in autumn, because the
new leaves are more lumpy & have more apparent lineation. On the
contrary, old leaves are smooth on the inside & pierced in several
places. Therefore place your leaf bottom down on the clay
slab, and secure it with small points, nevertheless
leaving it its natural curve. And make a notch in the
clay to hide the stem at the first cast, which, once made
& dry, you will take away the stem from the leaf & clean with it
well with small bristle brushes & fix it with a small mound
of clay. Next, make several gates around the leaf with wax,
as you know, & gec make the gate thin & with
several lines & lumpy.
The vine leaf is painted with green made of stil de grain
yellow & verd de terre.
You can cast on the leaf a spider or frog &
whatever you will like.
Casting in ☼Take a crucible with a capacity suitable for what you want
to put in it, coarsely pestle a little borax & put it at the
bottom, then the ☼ on top. Arrange the crucible on the charcoals of the forge in such a
way that the wind of the bellows blows on it from underneath
and not at the side, for this would cool it & would not heat it enough.
Make sure also that it is distanced three fingers from
the wall of the forge, in order that it can be surrounded with
charcoal. Let the said crucible reheat until it is quite
red. Then, make your boy blow on it with long and strong
pushes, for in this way it heats well better. And
nevertheless, blow by when the gold is melted, blow on
top with small bellows, for the gold will become
brittle & take on a crust. And as long as it makes
swirling fumes as you blow thus, it means that is not soft
enough for the cast. Uncover therefore the crucible, &
without moving ch it from its place and without
interrupting the blowing, make it lean toward you in order to see well
inside. Throw in it the size of a bean of borax,
& blow inside in jolts with the small bellows. But if
there is charcoal inside, blow a little stronger to make it go
out. And if the goldsmokes & swirls, put some more
borax in and note blow on top, making sure that, if it
is still brittle & not softened enough, it does not cover itself
when you blow, as if it had cooled. But if it does not make this sign,
it is soft enough. At that point, blow very strongly in order
to heat it well, and as you think it is hot enough, throw in on top, in
the crucible, the couleur,
composed, as said before, of verdet, saltpeter,
sal ammoniac & borax, a little. And
let rest blow always with the small bellows, and the
gold will become shiny like
If you cast in gold some important piece, lute your
mold with the same sand where there is there is some
crocum.
If you want to cast some large work in gold or which is
important, make at the foot of the forge, or at one end of it, a
four à vent, where you can hold your
mold in the completely n red sand.
One can cast two or three lb of gold.
a mirror. And when you want to cast, put again a
little of the couleur & let rest a little, always
blowing with the small & large bellows. Finally, arrange
your very red mold between the moulets or in a
crucible full of very hot sand, & cast. And when it has set,
throw, if you want, in water. For gold does not get
damaged like tin, which jumps.To melt gold in ingots, it is of no importance to
gec blow on top with the little bellows.For large works, the crucible of sand needs to be put in a
fourneau à vent, to become entirely red at the end of
the fournaise.The gold that the wind hits or that one forges becomes
black. But a little aquafortis uncovers it immediately.If you have some work to forge of lattensol on latten, as one does small
statues, put between the gold & the latten a plate
of lead. And before reheating the gold & putting it again
in the fire, soak in aquafortis & it will be
soft.It is enough that the gate be of the thickness of
the medal, that is to say from the middle of the gate to the medal. But
if the medal is very thick, one ought not, for this reason, to thicken
the gate, for a very thick gate never comes out well.
Mai Also, it could be made wide, as much as can
be done, to embrace the medal.
DEsmEnamelling thin
works
Goldsmiths scrape gold leaf with the brim of a burin,
& then set the enamel down on it.
For casting in lattenThe latten from skillets in which one makes the mush for
little children, which is soft, is appropriate for
the cast. Some say that German tokensare
contain a lot of calamine. However, as they are thin, the
calamine exhales out when melting them, as it does in
all metaremelted latten, which, through melting
again, would return to red. However, fresh calamine & on its own, put
again on melted latten, makes it run & cast neatly, because
the one that is in the remelted delatten is
half corrupted from its nature, & makes it become porous &
blusters because it is disposed to exhaling. Therefore, use
calamine alone, on its own, very recent, on the melted
latten. Take heed to cast very hot & that your mold
be red like for gold, silver, copper &
metal. If you cast with recent calamine, keep
away from the fumes, for they are pernicious. I wanted to use
German tokens to cast medals & took thirty & xii
nails of rosette, like for chairs, which are of
soft latten. This substance, containing a lot of
calamine, like all strong yellow latten, has made great fumes,
which is what prevents latten from running and makes it
porous. Make many vents & cast very hot, that your
latten is white like water or melted silver &
similar to a very polished steel mirror. The second fusion comes
out better, for what calamine there is has been exhaled and does not make
fumes as much. If it is in a frame which does not break
& withstands a, the second cast comes out neat
because it is imbued with calamine fumes, which embrace &
receive the second one. Sal ammoniac alone, put in
latten, renders it neat & shiny. Huile
tingente even more so. It does not need any sand other than the
previous en noyau & that the mold be red like for
gold. Make many vents. And if you cast yellowed latten
with the prepared tutty, you will not have any bad fumes.
This metal is very fanciful to cast because of the calamine
smoke, and one ought not to leave it pass rest even
a little bit outside the fire, like some do with silver, for it
is immediately cold when it feels the air and the
wind. It always leaves some type of tail, like glass, when
you cast it. Casters do not usually take that very yellow
latten, because of the calamine passed through the fire. But
when wanting to cast red copper, they yellow it either with
fresh calamine or with prepared tutty. Wanting to cast,
one purifies it well of charcoal with a stalk of
copper or iron, and one covers it with a
cloth soaked in pig fat mixed with
saltpeter or sal ammoniac, to keep it from
the wind & from cooling.
For casting in red copperPure red copper from a cauldron or other thin works
is appropriate for casting. And to make it run, throw in some sal
ammoniac, & when you are ready to cast, put in a little fine
tin & very little. And note that one needs to cast copper
very hot in the mold, which needs to also be inflamed &
entirely red like for gold, silver, latten &
metal. You will recognize that it is hot enough when it is
smooth, thin & shiny like a mirror of cu of
steel, newly polished, or like melted silver. Keep it from
the wind, for it will quickly cool. Stop the cast with
towsor to keep it from cooling. Red copper
comes out more neatly than latten, which has strong smoke
that prevents it from running. I molded it en noyau neatly like
the principal & thin like paper. It is necessary that it
be so hot that it is white & shiny & polished like melted
silver and like a mirror. I cast it in the same sand as
above en noyau.Copper and latten are the longest to melt, longer than any
other metal, especially red copper. But also it flows
& comes out very neat, provided that it is cast very hot, that it is
like water.
Removing your mold from the fire, plant it in
des a brazier that fills a pot or
a vessel.
Huile tingente to make metals run
Take some ☿ sublimate of Venice,
true & not arsenic sublimate, a pea, aes
ustum, a pea, sal ammoniac, a pea.
Pulverize everything separately, & next mix everything in a
glass bottle & put on hot ash. You will see
that everything dissolves like wax, making many colors. Let it
everything set & put a little of it on each
melted metal, & it will run marvelously.Founders of large casts for statues throw in much
tartar to clean it of its filth & nastiness,
& much sal ammoniac to render it thin & neat. And when
they want to cast, they put in much tin. The cold &
humidity strongly disagrees with it, which renders dangerous the
work of the founder, for one only needs a spring of
water in the pit to lose everything.
ClampsThey are made with flat pincers of iron wire,
reheated & refolded, then beaten at the ends on the anvil.
When they are thus fine, they are subject to burning, being put often
in the molds for reheating. Therefore, use some new ones.
Tempering sand for molds of flat medalsFlat medals of wax or metal are oiled very
lightly & then are touched with a paintbrush with
eau-de-vie. And in order that the mold, wetted with
water, takes without refusing the oiled thing, one heats
the water well for tempering the sand, for with cold water
it would refuse. Medals are oiled because they are not malleable
& thus could break the mold. And animals, which are
malleable, do not want to be oiled. Hot water should be
of such heat that you cannot hold your finger
there without feeling strong heat. Temper your sand thicker for flat medals & solids than for lizards & fine things.
Your sand having set, clean & scrape your mold on one side
& the other, & make a notch at the foot & the border of the
medal on the side of the gate, in order that you can take it away
better. Lower also the mold, scraping the
medal all around, in order that, from all sides, you can take it away
without it corrupting the mold. Next, make your scorings around
of the the first mold cast mes,
in order that the second cast joins with it without varying, &
especially make a notch at the bottom of the mold
where the head of the molded thing is. Make some also at the sides of
the gate. This done, dip the reverse of the first mold in
water, oil it, & thus it will not be imbibed. Rub
the reverse of the medal with eau-de-vie & secondly cast,
tempering in hot water. If you have molded a medal en noyau,
having made the first cast & this one having set,
outline, with the point of a knife, the surround of the medal,
in order that it is raised on the cast & not buried in it. Then
having made the second cast & having opened your mold,
have take away the medal in one go, with one two
knife pointsq, and that one takes it from
the side of the gate & the other from the side of the head, which is
opposite.
Take care not to oil your medal too much, for if the oil
seeps out, it diverts the sand from becoming smooth & amassing, &
makes it wavy & lumpy. One should only touch the middle of the medal
of the p with the point of an oiled
paintbrush, & then spread the oil everywhere.
Make especially sure that the gate is the widest you can
p toward the medal & embraces it well, that the
entrance of the gate is ample, always narrowing toward the medal. Do
not forget also to notch the entrance of the gate.
If you want to cast gold, silver, copper, or
latten, it is necessary that they be perfectly red &
inflamed on the inside when you cast, & perfectly reheated two
times if there is something inside to be burnt & cleaned.The molds of animals that one burns must be heated in
such a way that the animal burns. But if it has thick bones, it is
troublesome to pull out & ☿ often breaks
some fine things by its weightiness. One does not put
☿ in molds that can open. This readily
happens with flowers, the mold of these does not open because
they are made all in one go.When you want to reheat your molds, put the clamps
on the joints, in order that, when reheating, they do not bend,
contract, or break. This is done after the gate is made.The scrapings of the mold can still be used, using them in
place of brick, after having reheated them, & also the
pieces of the molds that have been used. One lutes with it
also important things, like works of gold or silver. One
also reheats it, & prepares it with sesal
ammoniac water, as spat from Germany, & it is
excellent sand for frames for all metals.The molds of things which one needs to burn inside the mold are
souf not opened until the thing that is inside is
burnt, like with molds of crayfish, crabs,
stag beetles, portraits & pieces of sulfured
black wax, which do not release well.One ought not to mold on brick or wood because they
l’ea drink & attract water too soon, and
do not allow the sand to set. It would never be better than on a
fresh clay slab. Yet, I have experienced that grey
earth dries the mold too soon. The yellow is
better.
For medals and flat things it is necessary that the sand be thick
enough wet, because it sets quickly. And when the sand is thus thick,
one can hit and shake the table where the mold is
placed, to make it run everywhere. But when the sand is thin, like for
flowers and plants, one ought not to hit, nor when there is something
attached with wax or another thing that is subject to coming off,
like crayfish legs or similar things. And if the sand is, by
chance, too thick, you promptly put in it some
pourwater. Having put the sand in
water, it examine that it is thick at the bottom &
thin on top. The thinnest is cast at the beginning, and then blow,
& the thickest at the end in order to fortify the
mold.
Talcum mixed in the moldsI took the one from which I had pulled the oil. I crushed it
very finely even more s in a steel
mortar with a pestle, very lumpy like a file. I
rendered it very fine & in a cottony & downy powder. I mixed it
with sand & mixed it together & cast it en noyau. It
molded en no very neatly & one ought not to doubt
that it holds in the fire.
Gold cast very thinly
When goldsmiths have something to solder promptly
and do not have leisure to forge it, they melt some
gold and then throw it on a cloth or other
things that withstand the fire, and they flatten it immediately
with a hammer or similar thing. And it ends up very thin &
even receives the impression of the cloth.Fine gold, not alloyed, can be cast in medals,
but not in plants & lizards & very fine things if it
is not alloyed.A pansy anointed with wheat oil can be cast
in alloyed gold.And other thin leaves, but only if the branch is not too big and
the leaves, separately cast, can be soldered.
Counterfeit diamonds put in a workGive a light coat on the inside of the setting with black modeling wax,
then anoint the inside, thus waxed, with
wheat oil, & then powder this with lamp smoke,
for it is necessary that ceste its color not have
luster for false stones. This done, set in your stone& then with a bit of wax, then, with a
steel point & a small finishing hammer,
join the edge of the setting to the stone in order that
daylight does not enter in. But keep from knocking the
stone, which would break.
Casting of lead and tinWhen it is often melted, it becomes brittle &
fl frangible because it is cast very hot &
renders it half calcined. Therefore, use new.The alloy that I have put in use for lizards &
snakes is two ℥ of fine tin for one lb
of new & unadulterated lead. The mold is made of the
aforesaid sand, common to allmetals; when it is reheated let it
cool until you can hold your finger without harm
in the hole of the gate. As for lead, one melts it in a
crucibleju in the fire, with
bellows, until the crucible & the lead are
red. When it is in this state, purge it of charcoal, either
with a scraper made for this purpose or with the wind of the
little bellows. l This done, let it rest
thus red, & reheat a little on its own, then throw in, if you want,
a little rosin to burn the filth. However some find it
better not to put any in, because it leaves filth. But, when they
are ready to cast, they ought not to forget to throw inside, as well,
as much as a bean of looking-glass tin for each
lb of lead, and that it e should be
red like melted metal when it enters in the mold. And if
the mold is big, it is better to put it in a press, in
order that it joins well & that the lead does not spread outside the mold. However, should this happen & that
for the first or second or third time your mold has not filled,
cast boldly, for, provided that your metal is red, it will set
again, & join with the other, and come out very neat, like the
principal. The same can be said for fine tin for thin things.
And the alloy of fine tin is one ℥ of new lead
for one lb of this. Large molds should be placed in
very tight presses, between two sheets of
copperpu, & then bury them in the sand,
which is better than ash, because il is by its weight it seals
better. Otherwise, these large molds are subject to
opening slightly by the weight of the metal. Some make square
pots
When the medal is thick, one is not compelled to cast as hot as when it
is thin.
+
Note that if you want to cast them in cuttlefish
bone, they ought not to be very hot because they will burn the
cuttlefish bone. Test for this effect with
paper. If it turns the paper red, it is
enough, it is good to cast, but if it blackens the
paper, it is too hot.
If you want to cast a written paper, make your alloy with
plomhalflead & halftin, & as soon as it is melted, cast between two
cartonsin a very flat &
level place, & with a point of gold or hard
wood, engrave on the left the writing that you want. And having
poured lead on a carton, press on top
with the other adapted carton.
either of earth or plates of copper, or iron,
or wood covered with fer blanc, to bury more easily these
aforementioned molds between the sheets of
copper & the stirrup or screw of
iron.
Cast of wax to represent an animal that one has not
got
Take some white wax, which is more appropriate for this work
than anything else because it is firmer & does not leave as much
filth, as much as you need to mold the animal that you propose,
& no more, and half as much charcoal, pestled &
finely passed through a linen or a sleeve.
The charcoal gives color and body to the wax,
which would otherwise be transparent & the features would not be
seen as well. Therefore, put your wax to melt in the charcoal fire. And when it will be well melted & liquid, take, for a
bowl with handles full of melted wax, as much
sulfurlaas a large
walnut. Pulverize it, melt it over a slow fire, & when
it is melted, do not leave it on the fire, because it will become
too hard, but take it away & agitate it always with a
little stick, & let it finish its bubbling, & when it is as
liquid as water, throw it in the wax that you have removed
from the fire. And mix & always stir the one & the other, in
order that they mix well. Next, mix in, always stirring & in several
goes, the aforesaid pulverized charcoalin several
goes. And as it will be well incorporated, take heed if
your wax has passed its high heat, which you will recognize
when it no longer smokes, when it makes large tracts
sere pulling at the
edges, & motionless & close to one to the other.
For, if you were to cast too hot, you could not separate your wax
from the mold, & it would set in the cast. When it is in
this good state, stir it with a little stick, in order that
thepulverized charcoal is everywhere & not placed
at the bottom. And in this way, cast in your mold, little by
little, & not in one go, because the wax, by its
unctuousness, does not flow
This black sulfured wax is for modeling round figures that are
not for releasing and that one needs to burn in the mold à noyau
before opening it, po like those
which have arms & legs out front or entwined. And then this
wax, by means of sulfur, melts with very little heat and
exits without leaving any filth. If, by chance, the pestled
charcoal remains there as ash, by opening the mold
& blowing inside, it stays neat.
To make snakes with wax, or another thing to fix on a
candle, one needs to cast with modeling wax of all
colors.
like other things, & on this occasion, you can cast two or
three times until your mold is full. As for the mold which
is of white plaster, pulverized & reheated as for
previous sands, you should make it well in advance, for
it serves several times. But before you use it, soak it for a good
hour in cold water & for at least
as long in water so hot, that, at
the beginning, you cannot hold your finger in it.
And q take heed that it does not imbibe
b more,thus but rather that it shows
itself to be very wet everywhere, without the water being imbibed in it.
And, removing it from the hot water, closed, cast your wax
in such a state of heat as has been said. And neither the first
nor second cast come out readily until the mold is imbibed. Let it cool
before opening it, in order that the cast thing does not break. You will
recognize that the cast is good when the wax spilled out onto the
outside of the mold is thin and smooth. Remember to make many
gates all along the mold, in order that the wax may thus run
better.Make the first
gate twice as large as for other molds. And if, in
the first cast, your work becomes porous and does not come out neat,
it is all the same, for it is necessary that you
realise that the three or four first ones are not readily good. In the
first one, you recognize if there are some barbs, which keep from
releasing well and you remove them if they do not remove
themselves at the second or third first casts. And the more
you will cast, the neater you will make it, and your mold will serve
you for more than a hundred times if it is well managed. But it is
good to soak it one night or one
day before casting in it, in order that it be well
imbibed. The same must be done for fruits of sugar. This
wax is very soft & amiable & pliant as
copper, and it is so strong because of the sulfur, which
renders it meltable much before the other, thus that you can prove it on a
hot slate. And the sulfur that you will have put
in it will be found, the second time that you melt it, cracked at the
bottom. Having thus passed through the wax, it does not inflame
from a candle. And on this occasion, que I
think it will cast very neatly for medals. One uses the same wax
in place of varnish to etch
When your animal is cast, cut with a hot penknife the flashing
& superfluous things. And if you want to refold it & twist it
around on some stick or taper, put it to soften
on in hot water, and hold it while twisting it
around.
Cut down the protuberance of the gates, in order that they are smooth
& that the wax has more of the silver to run in one
go without turning around in the folds of the snake.
etch on silver & copper with aquafortis. With
this also, one takes the hollow form of the relief & then one casts in
this hollow form some tempered sand, which once more represents the relief very
neatly. And then, you can cast on this one its hollow form in
copper, gold, and silver, and make seals of great
singularity.Seals
For casting in sulfur
To cast neatly in sulfur, arrange the bread pith under the
brazier, as you know. Mold in it what you want & let dry,
& you will have very neat work.
Try sulfur passed through melted wax, because it no longer
inflames & no longer makes eyelets.
Molding and shrinking a large figure
Mold it with bread pith coming from the oven, or
as the aforesaid, & in drying out, it will shrink & consequently the
medal that you will cast in it. You it can, by this means, by
elongating and widening the imprinted bread pith, vary the figure
& with one image make many various ones. Bread coming from
the oven is better. And the one that is reheated twice retracts
more. You can cast sulfur without leaving the imprint of the
bread to dry, if you want to mold as big as it is. But if you
want to let it shrink, make it dry, either more or less.
Casting of lead and tin in plaster
If you want to cast some flat medal or some animal that is not very
weighty and that does not need to burn in the mold, you can
cast in plaster & brick, mixed like above, and not in
plaster alone, for it contracts too much, feeling a harsh fire if
it is not accompanied. But, with brick, it holds well.
However, take heed to dry out your mold at length & on a
slow fire & with patience, for there is no need to reheat it. But
when your work is of flowers or other things that want to
be their molds reheated & set ablaze, mix in some
feather alum & even some crocum. I have
molded in plaster & brick very neatly, & it
withstood several castings.I triedplaster &
brick alone and molded en noyau like others. My
mold was very neat, having lightly oiled & rubbed
with eau-de-vie my medal. I made my gate ample at the entrance,
becoming narrower up to the medal, which was very thin. I notched the gate
which embraced well the medal. I dried the mold well on a slow
fire &, at the end, heated it well without reddening it. I let it
cool in such a way that I could hold my finger
to it without burning myself. I made an alloy of 4
℥ of tin & six
deniers of lead. I cast red, and it came out
well. Next, I put in for 4 ℥ of
tin, xii deniers of lead; it came out
very well.
When there is nothing to burn in the mold, it is not necessary to reheat
it for lead & tin. But for flowers & what should
burn, yes.
Molding a crayfishIf some little thing is missing from it, you can
reattach it or else fill it with goldsmith’s
cement, because it can be painted.The crayfish is one of the most fanciful to mold, but also
provides an example for casting many other very difficult things. Males
are distinguished by the eggs that females carry and by the four
legs little white leglets at the back that males
ap have inside their tail, after the
eight main legs. It is only a good thing to dry them out a little,
because the lumps only come out hard rougher & more
beautiful, for everything that is of shell does not diminish. It is true
that if you let them dry too much, these little inside leglets diminish
& become more slender & do not have as much body. If also they
are too dry, the flesh separates from the scales. Take heed, therefore,
to use moderation. They have some hair between the legs & at the end
of the tail. And because all hair is vexing to mold, because it
gets mixed up with the sand & is not released, you can burn it with
a hot iron on the crayfish, so that no one sees
it. As for animals that have hair or feathers, it is necessary that you
anoint them with olivewheat oil, which
is quickly dry & which will keep the hair flat & spread out.
Thus, you will have the form of your animal and the hair will also show,
but made wavy, and this is something which can be repaired. If your
crayfish has eggs, which are delicate and which
would be awkward to uncover without breaking, you would do better to
make the first cast on the belly & eggs, in order that
you you only need to uncover the back, which is hard &
easy to handle. And the belly & the eggs will remain in the
mold, and one will need to burn them inside before opening your
mold& en for the second time. Thus,
all it will open easily, for what is burned will no longer be
attached. Thus, the second cast, which is made on the first one, which
has set well, separates easily from the first after having been
reheated, which is a singular secret for similar molds.The gate is made by the tail, very
thin.Do not forget to rub with
eau-de-vie before molding.Stag beetles, crayfish
& crabs are molded in the same fashion.If your crayfisha
d has no eggs, mold the back on top & the belly on the
bottom. You can give it some.It can be molded hollow as for the body,
but the legs cannot. And to do it well, crayfish are already
fanciful enough to mold without looking for the hollow; this ought to be
reserved for turtles.When you open your mold, you
will find the crayfish with white bones, but not in
powder. And without opening it, the ☿ will have
done nothing.Layer these oil colors very
transparently.To paint it, boil it with wine & a
little salt, in order that they become very red, & take this as
a model. Paint the back with vermilion mixed with lake,
& the sides & underneath the belly & the legs with
vermilion, & yellow ocher, and white.
Having therefore let your crayfish dry a little in the
sun or on its own, if it has eggs, they will shrink while drying
and will only be more beautiful. Therefore, make your slab of
yellow potter’s earth, like for other figures,
lay your crayfish on top, the s back
on topon the bottom, & the legs, belly &
eggs, which are all the most fanciful parts to mold, on the other side
and on the top. Push the back down in the clay slab,
up to near the legs, which is about halfway. And fix the body with an
iron wire point in the middle &, if it seems
necessary, another at the end of the tail. And in order that the
big legs show themselves lower than the head, which is
enf half sunken, extend them &, from
underneath, add to them a little clay to raise them. Hide also the
horns in the clay, under the big legs, to arrange them afterward
as you like. As for the small legs, extend them on the clay
until the joint, and the other half of the legs remain above, curved,
for the first cast. However, in order that they do not move &
detach, secure them well, not only on the clay, but
att fix them with wax & a little hot
iron right in the joints. And if you want to find the
most fanciful cast, you can attach the end of one of the legs with the
same wax on the body, or on one of the big legs, and also make, if
it has eggs, the tail to be half folded on the eggs, & fix it in
this form with an iron wire point. Above all special heed,
since the thing is s thus arranged, that it can be
well cleaned. Lastly, having rubbed the crayfish with
eau-de-vie, cast your sand. Having set, uncover the back of the
crayfish, the head & the eyes & its little pincers, the
big legs, and the small legs all along, for one needs to uncover the most
that one can, both the long horns & the tail, except if you have
folded & curved it to hold the eggs. Other animalsSecure what will detach itself,
like the hairy brows near the mouth, with some melted
wax underneath.Uncover the most that you can, but take
heed that the notching that you make in the mold will release
well.Make the mold lean on the side
that will be the thickest of the animal.To paint it, one does the middle of the
back mixed with vermilion mixed with a little
lake, and the sides & the belly & underneath the legs is
with a flesh color made of vermilion, white of ceruse, a
little yellow ocher. As in this & all other things, have
always the natural one in front of you to imitate it.Lay the horns on the big legs,
& or make with whitened latten wire &
solder them.Take heed d, when
modeling, to arrange the legs in such a way that they do not pass the
belly of the crayfish, Aultr and that,
placing them, they sit well on the belly, otherwise the legs would
break from the weight of the body, which is massive.
are not uncovered as much. But because the crayfish is
awkward to burn & clean, one needs to uncover as much as one can,
especially the little legs until the end, for these are awkward & if
they were not to be uncovered and you were to have to pull them, you
could break something in the mold. While uncovering with the
point of a knife, or even a burin or other appropriate
thing, clean very carefully the sand which will be in the joints
& elsewhere with your little brushes. And if something gets
detached, attach it with wax, as said. And attach also the horns
in the same way. And make also the gate, along the end of the little
legs, with some wax. And fill the holes made by the iron
wire point with it. And once everything is quite neat & more
than half is uncovered, oil your utmold& n’oubli, after having dipped the reverse in
water, & do not forget to oil all the delicate parts
which are between the legs and the little pincers. Then, rub the
crayfish with eau-de-vie. And make your second cast,
having flattened the first mold, in order that the
clamps join better. Your mold must be wider on the
side that is imprinted than on the back. Do not open your mold
after the second cast unless it has been luted & reheated
& unless what is inside is burned. Do not forget to put
crocum among your sand when you mold crayfish,
for one needs to reheat strongly, & the crocum
withstands marvelously. Molding a crab & a
crayfish, it is all the same. When you have uncovered
your crayfish on one side, only delay making the seond cast as little you can, for elcrayfish dry
se out. It is not just about uncovering the
crayfish well, in such a way that you see an entire half, but
take heed that your mold itself, in which you uncover, releases
well, for even if the crayfish were well burned, you
despoui would not be able to open your mold
without breaking.Repair with
penknives, files, little
chaples, or burins, &c.
Make all around them, as you see, a gate of wax, & at the end
of the tail, also two or three, from which you make the principal
gate.Make a gate of wax, elongated in
a line like a thick thread, all along the end of the legs &
at u the extremity of the tail. If there is also
some piece of leg or other part that is further away from the line of
the others, or raised above, or folded on its own, give it a gate of
wax, which from its extremity joins either at the body or at one
of the big legs or at some other place which receives a lot of
metal.Having uncovered it, attach & secure
with wax the two little hairy horns of the crayfish
& other things which are not endespoui secured at all.
Molding grasshoppers and things too thin
If you have a written paper to mold that is too thin, after
you have made the first cast & it has set, give a little thickness
to the reverse of your paper with melted butter, which is
the most appropriate means there is, & for fortifying the wings of
either a butterfly or a grasshopper, or some delicate
part of an animal to which you need to give thickness. But take heed to
apply this melted butter underneath the wing or in whichever
place it cannot be seen. For giving thickness to a pansy or
other flowers, butter is not good, but rather wheat
oil, which is soon dry & holds firm. Wax would not be
appropriate here for it is too hot once melted, & it makes the thing
to which it is applied contract. But butter is amiable and
handleable.If you write on paper or on
common carton & if your
letter is of gum, the humidity of the clay
slab or the wetted sand for noyau will moisten your
letter & undo it. Therefore write with
cinnabar wetted with oil on oiled paper
& press in.+ Reheat your
molds with charcoals previously lit in the forge,
in order that the fire is not so hot & does not break the
molds. And do not make as much fire where the mold is
thin as in the place where it is thick.
MoldsMake the notches from those that enter more into the inside of the
mold than on the outside, for in this way, they have more
strength. Keep from reheating in one go & in too ardent a fire, for
this makes them melt break.Do not keep them in a humid or
enclosed place if they are not quite dry, for they go moldy. So do
dried animals.One ought not to reheat molds
twice when the animal can be removed without burning, like a
toad, which can well be molded hollow like all thick animals.
However, it is always good to redden the mold once.
Lute for luting your moldsI have not found one that is made more quickly than this one, nor
better. Take this lean earth of which the founders of artillery
& bells make their trusseaulx and
molds, which is lean & sandy. Temper it
e moderately like a very thick mortar. Mix in
it about halfhorse dung, & then have it
beaten well. Next, mix in a third part of discarded cloth
waste or shearings of cloth, and beat it again quite strongly.
You can reheat your mold as soon as the lute is
placed.
Molding turtlesThe water turtle is more beautiful to mold
because it has prettier scales & straight legs. And those of the
garrigue have crooked ones. They are of long
life; getting ready to put them to death, open their mouth & pass a long
penknife through all the intestines, & then make it swallow
some vinegar mixed with eau-de-vie or urine, as for
snakes. One needs to mold them in several pieces, & the
back itself, sometimes, because the sides for some are narrower than
elsewhere & are not released on this occasion. To make them die, one
ought not to boil them, for they come apart, & even the shell, from the
hot water. They come out better hollow, because their great
thickness corrupts the mold. Those from
water are more vigorous. Those of the
garrigue are thinner, slower & more
sleepy. If you scratch those of the water on their
shells, however sleepy they are, they move. Those of the
garrigue do not.They die rather quickly in
vinegar mixed with a little eau-de-vie or urine, as
with all other animals.They keep themselves, in the
winter, with their eyes closed & are as dead, being
numbed by the cold. They hide in the earth or
under wheat chaff or warm manure, & live
only on the moisture of the earth.
One ought not to mold them as soon as they are dead because they are still too
stiff. But on the follwing day, you will manipulate them &
fold their legs as you wish.
Molders from FoixThose who mold crosswise make their sand with
crocum & calcined slate, but slate
always retains its asperity & becomes porous, because it is fatty.
En noyau, it is not good; in sand, it can be accommodated.
They sieve their sand, grind it on porphyry,
and wet it in water, & they take away the finest, which is on
top, then reheat it.
ToadOnce molded, it can be removed without burning it, because it
releases well. Choose the biggest & the lumpiest. Because they
contain a lot of metal, it is best to mold them hollow, for they
come out better. You could make your cast in one piece & large, but
it s would be awkward to cut. It is best to do it in
three or 4 parts, which are a little wide close to the animal, &
include as much of the edge of this, which is close to the gate, as
can be done. Make also some gate conduits from the end of
Let the mold cool before opening it, especially for thick
things.
one leg up to the other, in order that the spread out extremities
come to join one with the other by means of the said gates,
which you will start in the round parts, empty of wax, that you
have put at the end of the feet to attract the metal. Thus, the
gate being made by wax, you are in no danger of encrusting
something from the molded animal. And it is more expedient to make
thus the gate of wax, to cast the second mold on top, than to
wait to do them after the mold is
reheated q, for at that point, it is necessary, if
possible, that everything be ready. One needs to heat well & evenly
redden the molds where there are gates of wax, in order
that it melts well & leaves nothing inside.
Carcanets made à jourThey are molded like crayfishen noyau, first on
one side, that which is hollow being raised up with clay, & then
one uncovers them from the other side & one makes the second
casting. They can also be cast well in frames, provided
that they are released easily. If they are not, one models them in
wax, or else one fills the cavities that cannot release
with wax or clay.
Iron filingsBecause usually filings are mixed with filth, it
is good to redden them in the fire to burn the impurities and then
wash them in clear water. In this way, the dirt will go to the
top of the water, which you throw out, & the good
filings will go to the bottom.
CarnationsBecause the ones that are cast are usually massive, or
bi they are weighty, & for this reason, one makes them
with leaves & sheets of silver.
TurtlesThose of water are more beautiful & easier
to mold than those, being flatter & having a longer head
& tail q and legs straighter & better to
release than those of the garrigue, which
are lean, wrinkled & well ensconced in their shell, which also have
a rounder top of the shell & nevertheless narrower v
on the sides than near the middle, which is the reason their
l top shell cannot be molded well in one piece like
those of the water. Therefore Thus, you
will mold their top shell in two pieces, the bottom ones in two or three
or four, according to the need. But, note that if you want to release
your turtle from the mold without burning it, it needs
to be molded thus in several pieces. But, if you want it to be burned
p inside, you can mold the top shell in one piece.
Therefore, to put your hand to the work after you have killed it entirely
in vinegar & urine, as said, let it dry well. And
clean it well with your small bristle brushes. Next, not take your
clay slab and put it on top and smudge it a little, in order
that the bottom shell fastens to it, having, nevertheless, earlier
shaped the head with a strong point, as with other animals,
making it hold high by the means of one a little fresh
clay that you will adapt from underneath. Stretch the said
head & legs with your little pincers. The head arranged,
dexterously place d a grain of yellow
millet in each eye with pincers, because as soon as
they are dead the eyes are burst and putrid. You can do this as well
with all other small animals, with some grain of large
amaranth, some of small, and grain of
rapeseed, & this done, you will arrange the legs,
securing them with iron points and then, with some
clay, fill up all the empty space around the turtle,
that is to say what is between the two shells, in order that the sand
entering there does not prevent it from releasing. And because the legs
should be lower than the shell of the seof belly, make a little pit in the
clay slab to adapt them there. Your turtle
When they are better mortified & rested two or three
days, they bend and are handled better.
animal eyes of my invention
having been thus arranged & well cleaned with
brushes, place the the circle of
clay around the slab. Then, with a band of
clay placed on the middle of e the
the back of the turtle, as you see, & at the
widest place, divide your mold. Subsequently, oil with
your paintbrush dedicated for this the half of the shell
you want to mold. Temper in hot water, so that without burning
yourself, you can hold your finger in it without
burning yourself, your sand, a little p thick.
And f before casting it, rub the shell with
eau-de-vie. And next, cast your sand & let it set, and note
that all things that have shells or that are hard or are not
malleable, like snakes & lizards, want to be
oiled to release. Things that are malleable do not need this.
Hot water makes the tempered sandin water set
better on oil, which otherwise would be refused. Once your half of the
turtle is thus desp molded,
separate it, with its half mold, from the clay
slab that you will set aside to return it to when it is necessary.
Next, clean your half mold & smooth it & flatten, like
the others. But because it happens that because u of
the clayentredeux, the half mold will consist
of more than half of the turtle, cut & pare down smoothly
the excess, & clean everything well with brushes. Then,
make on the top edge of the mold, on the side that is cut &
halfway, two notches, like for other molds, and return your
turtle to its slab as it was, & secure its two
legs, which are not molded, with iron wire points. And
stuff all around what is empty, up until the edge of the top shell, with
clay. Next, place the circle around and put a
clayentredeulx on the first mold, a little
above the notches. And having oiled the d
first half mold, & its notches, and the shell of the
turtle, & having also showered it with eau-de-vie,
heat your water, temper you sand with a little sal
ammoniac water & the said hot water, & cast. Having set,
adapt the sides of these two molds smoothly, & on each side
secure their joint, which can only just be perceived, with two
clamps, in order that when uncovering afterward the underneath
of the turtle, they are not undone. Next, uncover the side of
the belly & of the throat, in the way that you uncover a
crayfish, which is the most difficult to mold of the little
beasts, which are molded in two halves.
You can mold the turtle with one piece for each side, but one
would need to burn it. And afterward, to make the hollow, the reheated
mold cannot be oiled because it drinks the
oil.
+
If there is some crocum in the sand, the joints of the
molds can hardly be perceived. Turn to the second leaf.
Casting in three framesOne casts in three framesbronze mortars
& similar things, which are easily released, namely the body of the
mortar in one, the two framesthe
core in the other. And the bottom of the
mortarcore in unthe
third one, for small work because otherwise the molding that
is in it would not be released.Inquire
Cuttlefish boneOne ought not to cast either tin or lead too hot in it, for
it would burn the bone & come out lumpy. And to
know when it is at a good heat, dip a little piece of twisted
paper into it. If it blackens it without lighting, it is at
a good heat. But if it burns it & catches fire there, it is too
hot. Gold & silver are able to be cast well
there, but it never comes out very neat. To mold something delicate
well, it is necessary that the bone be not so dry
If, for it is brittle & does not release as neatly &
crumbles & flakes. However, before casting in them, dry them, &
especially for gold, which does not want humidity. You will
recognize that they are dry enough when, after having brought the inside
& the imprint of these to the fire, they cry & crackle once
brought near the ear. Then, join them &
lute the joints with a little clay, & make it dry
lightly by the fire, & cast, & then shake the mold or
scratch over rough scales, & let it cool before opening. Usually one
cuts the bone in the middle, and the dullest part and
that which does not have any half circles
is the most delicate and smoothest for molding, & thus one always
imprints there the principal; the other is scaly on the inside, as it
demonstrates on the outside. Thus, one does not use this for delicate
things that are molded on two sides. One smooths & flattens these
two halves on some smooth wood, then one scrapes
charcoal on top to make it release well. And to make the
charcoal run evenly everywhere, one knocks on the side of the
hand that holds half of the bone. Once both
charcoaled, one takes the main bone that is
prepared & rounded on the sides, and having set the medal on top,
one tightens and presses it quite strongly.
But because the fingers do not press
evenly, for one if you press on the edges, the middle will
remain hollow. Begin, therefore, by the middle, & then follow the
edges. But to make it better, put on the medal something flat &
smooth, or some large square filee, & press with
this, for you will press equally, sometimes after l
with your knee, other times with your
foot with your shoe taken off, & make the
bone be on top; thus you l’emprand
will imprint it without breaking it. If, on the first go, it is not
molded well, return to it several times. Then, repair & smooth on the
sides your d halves of molded bone.
& And to cut it well, always begin coming from the
softest part to the scales. And if your medal does not come out by
itself, scratch the bone from the back, which is rugged,
and it will release. When you want to cast, secure & join your two
bones with some small points of wood,
&c. But to mold very neatly, there is only our sand.
+Flowers
When you mold them, if they are not strong enough to hold themselves
upright, pass a thread through the mold to keep them
from rising up, & cast the sand little by little, & always blow
strongly in order that it settles everywhere, otherwise it will become
lumpy.
Because you did not put in this a clay slab, the
mold sometimes holds to the table where you cast it.
To undo it, hit a great blow of a hammer at the side of the
table.
Molding plants and flowers
One does not need clay slabs, because plants or
flowers are not laid on top but as in air, without touching on any side
anything. & Only the escircle & contour are needed, which should be
higher than for flat molds. And thus, take heed to make it
strong and thick according to the size that you want, otherwise it would
burst, the sand being inside. Secure it & fortify it well by the
foot, & join well all the joints. Then, take your flower, well joined
& securely adapted to the end of
cir of the gate of wax, which should not be rough
but rather smooth, in order that it can release well. Then, wet your
flower or plant in some good eau-de-vie, or else
moin placed in a long glass
It is enough to reheat your lutedmold once for flowers
& to heat it the second time if you cast with tin &
lead, for with gold & silver, one needs to
reheat it twice.
Cast your tin very red in the mold, of
such heat that you can hold your finger
there without harm in the hole.
in order that it gets wet everywhere; if not, wet it with a
large paintbrush dedicated to this. Then, pass through
the end of the mold which closes the circle your bit
of iron wire, which holds the wax gate, and
cleave with it the clay closure, as you see, &
it place it low, so that the plant or flower touches no
thing & can leave enough thickness for the mold, for the
tempered sand always raises the plant or flower. Thus, if it is not stiff by
itself, pass with a needle some thin threadpo on the flower to keep it from rising. Or, if you
were to forget, lower the flower with some
bsmall stick until the cast sand begins to
d thicken. Your flower being well arranged,
d choose a bowl big enough to temper in it as
much sand as it takes to fill your mold. Put in a little sal
ammoniac water, then some fountain water. And when
the au en bowl is nearly full, put in, by
sprinkling, your sand, & mix & dilute it well in order that it
all becomes smooth, for if it were to coagulate, it would spoil the
mold. For flowers, it does not want to be so thick, and
especially at the beginning, you will throw, in thrusts, the clearest one
on the flower, & when it will be half covered, blow strongly
everywhere, to make the little bubbles disappear. Next, finish filling
& blow always. Make the mold lean a little toward its
widest part, and if you find the remains of thick sand, which has not
thinned well, cast it rather toward the gate than elsewhere. Finally,
you can even cast some thicker tempered sand in order to make make a quicker set.
I have molded thus a marigold with its leaves. The
crocum ferri is safer for flowers, and when there is
crocum, lute with the same sand that has served, and
is the most excellent of all.
The alloy with which I cast a large branch of marigold, which came out neatly like the natural
with its flower, its buds, and its leaves, was of one lb of fine tin mixed with two
ounces of lead.
If there is some flashing, repair with a penknife.
Uncover the molded flower by gently undoing the mold with the
point of a knife, & better yet, wet it well in
water. Next, use small hog bristle brushes,
a bit of iron wire, &c. When the mold is
reheated the first time, leave it to half cool, then gently pass through
the gate an iron wire to make an opening for the burned
ashes inside. Next, blow inside with bellows, then
turn the mold at the gate to make everything come out, &
sometimes suck and draw out with the mouth.
Take heed not to attach the tail of the flower too much to the gate of
wax, for fear of spoiling something when you pull out the gate of
wax. To pull it out, one needs to dig out all around a little,
& then pull it with your little pincers by the tail of
iron.
Molding turtlesThis is the continuation of the second preceding leaf. When you have
well uncovered the part of the belly of the turtle, the
underneath of the throat & of the legs, & having cleaned it all well,
do not forget to neatly uncover this cavity that these animals have in
their shell between the neck & the shoulders. Those of the
water do not have ones as deep as those of the
garrigue, which are leaner. And among
these, there are some that have ones more ensconced than others. Do not
forget, therefore, to uncover all of this well to better represent its
nature. But if there is some cavity which twists too much inside and
can neither be seen nor released, put in some small pieces of wax,
& with points of hot, thick iron wire, stretch &
adapt the said wax. Then, bouch stuff with
soft clay the entrance of all its cavities. Put the
clay circle around your mold, made already of
two pieces, which contains the back of the turtle. And to mold
its belly, one needs to divide in three, as you see. That is to say, you
will put an entre deulx of clay on top of the
throat & another on the edge of the shell of the tail,
#. And having oiledand the shell of
the belly & having rubbed it with eau-de-vie, cast your sand
a little thick, & temper with hot water as before. Having set,
remove these entredeulx of clay, then uncover
well the front & back legs, that is to say the part underneath &
the tail & the throat, & remove the clay from the cavities
qu, all in one piece if you can, for this will show
you if this cavity will release well. And if the pulled-out clay brings with it the wax that you put there, put back it in the places
that cannot release, as is said. And if some part is taken away or let
go, attach & rejoin it to the mold with some wax
& the point of hot iron. Do not forget to put some
pomelted wax at the end of the nails of the
turtles to make the vent. Your belly shell molded and uncovered,
your mold can be seen thus.
in such a way that only the entire belly shell be uncovered, to mold it
alone.
Take heed to make a border of melted wax, with a hot
iron, all around the edge of the top shell which is toward
the tail, in order the make the vent better. And make two little
strings of the same wax, r connecting from
the end the belly shell to the said edge of wax that is around
the shell of the spine, and make sure that turtle of
the tail of the turtle stays between these two strings. This is
to make the vent better. This done,
oil your mold and what appears of the shell. Put the
circle around & cast with hot water, as before,
observing there what you have observed. Do the same to mold the third
part, which is the tail. And having set, youuncover
your mold remove the clay contour, clean your
mold, & smooth it & flatten it on all sides with a
knife, like for other molds. Dip it lightly in
water, then try to release it. Usually one begins
ment with eback the
back shell, it is that is to say, the mold on top,
which is in two halves, and this one is easier to release. The other one
follows after, but because it is neighboring the shoulder of the
turtles, which are deeply ensconced, it is sometimes awkward.
Thus, when moving & pulling the mold gently, take heed to
pull the one which will present itself as the easiest, for one needs to
release one after the other. The most awkward of all is the one which
molds the eof throat, the
underneaths of the legs & the hollow shoulder pieces, which are of
such bad release that if you had not provided for it, by filling with
wax before molding what does not release well, it will be awkward
for you to pull your pieces out without breaking something. But should
this happen to you, there is still a remedy, provided that you keep
pi the broken pieces. For you can reassemble them
with points of rather strong iron & fill the crack
or fault that could be there with melted wax & the hot
iron, as with others, in order that the core for molding
hollow is made better. Next Go to the second leafTo avoid breaking when releasing, take
heed to uncover well up until what can hold.
+ Casting of copper alloyed with
☾, which is like very base solder
/ ard and old
K and some R out of
xii
I have cast with it the cleanest I have seen, in very small
figures & thin as paper. I have cast very hot in the
very red mold, and have put in the melted substance of
thisthe two substances compositions,
which make silver run, & have made as if I had wanted to
cast pure silver. This alloy is white in
bullitoire, like any alloys which resemble, however
little, ☾. For casting something delicate, use
this one.
LuteThere is no better than the one that has which you have
molded, namely pieces from your molds. But one needs to choose
those better reheated.
CrucibleTake heed that it is three fingers from
fe the mouth of the bellows, & that the
said bellows beats from us underneath the
bottom of the crucible, otherwise it would cool it.
Casting of lattenI took the one of latten skillets, which are beaten &
forged thinly. I Once well heated, I cast in it
two or three grains, like peas, of sal
ammoniac. This clarified it like a mirror. Once very white from the
force of being hot, I cast in it some pulverized calamine, raw &
pure. I cast it in its very red mold. It came out very neat
& thin like paper, & hollow on the reverse. But because
it had crusted, I reheated it, that is to say
reddened, let it cool, then put it to the whitening, of one partraw tartar & of one halfcommon salt. Once
well boiled, I rubbed it with a scratch-brush in clear
water. And because the first time it had not
Do not let it cool when melting. It always makes a tail, like melted
glass, because of the calamine.
Usually, the soft latten of skillets becomes red from casting,
especially when it stays a long time in the fire, m
because the calamine exhales itself. But sour latten of
candlesticks becomes yellow & pin filings.
come out as clear as I wanted, I reheated it again, let it cool,
put it again to the whitening & the
scratch-brush. It came out very neatly. You will do thus for
copper and silver. And if you want to
give
Beautiful color for lattenHaving cleaned it well, as is said, & scratch-brushed it
well, make it boil in water & turmeric root
or terra merita, and it will become very
beautiful.
WhiteningIf it is for silver, do not pestle your tartar with
iron but with the handle of a hammer, for if you touch
& dip iron in your whitening, the silver would
become red like copper & you would need to reheat it &
put it again in whitening. Mix nothing with your tartar
that should not enter the whitening, for this corrupts it. Do not
let it spill out of its first boil, for in this is all its strength. The
whitening is made with one partpulverized tartar
& a half of common salt.
Molding the foot of the bittern, or of the
eagle, or of other birds for the foot of saltcellars or
vases
One usually molds the foot & the leg up to the joint. And for
this effect, one molds it in five pieces: the leg in two pieces, the top
of the foot in two, and the bottom in one piece.in three pieces
Crocum ferriTo make this quickly, redden the filings in an
iron case, stirring it often. Then sprinkle it with
good vinegar & let it evaporate, & without removing it
from atop the fire, let it redden & inflame. Once cooled, pulverize
it on marble & return it to the fire,
rou sprinkle with vinegar, and then inflame.
Thus it will quickly be colored & made fine.
Molding turtlesNext, reassemble the parts of your mold and clamp
carefully all the joints, as much as above & below as on the sides,
having not forgotten to notch the joints of the molds, as with
others. Having clamped it all, undo the clamps on the
side & not the others. And thus, your mold of several
pieces sem will open as if it were only in two
halves. If you want to mold hollow, make in the middle of the of
the partmold of the belly a hole, from side to side,
which, inside, is of such capacity that the end of a little
finger can almost enter it, widening like a clervoise
the outside of the hole. This is to cast the core. But note
that all these difficulties would be nothing if you wanted
to mold hollow, because you could mold your turtle in two pieces
and burn it inside, as with other animals, and it
would be done quickly. But since the turtle is massive &
would be weighty if it is not hollow, one considers it better molded in
this way hollow, and in cha this fashion, to
make a mold well, one really needs three
days. Take heed in hollow & fanciful
molds to have some strong plaster, which endures the
fire without bursting, if it is possible. But if you cannot have any
such, mix a little more feather alum & add to it
also some crocum, which fortifies it & makes it so that the
flashing, if there is any, comes out so finely that it is easily undone.
Also, do not forget to tighten your molds well with a press to avoid flashing which is made either when the
mold is not well joined or when it bursts. To repair, if the
features are not apparent enough, retrace them lightly with a
burin, then soften them with a small chisel. The flashing
is removed with the chaple, a type of
burin. For the lumps & scales, they are made either with a
little gouge or a little round cutting-punch, or with
the point of a small chisel, not tempered, & struck on a
small file. Make this hole before molding
joining your molds.
Softening iron and rendering it very soft
Take sublimate, quicklime, soap from
Venice, horse dung, a little less
sublimate than the others. Wet all of this together like paste,
& impaste the iron with it, & envelop it in this
with some bad linen. Then make it reheat until it is
very red. Or leave overnight in a good fire until the
morning. It will be very soft for engraving on it well
whatever you want.
Base gold from Germany,
electrumOne calls it gold from the Rhine, which one finds
in the rivers, and is spangle gold.
Goldsmiths from Germany wanted to refine it,
thinking to separate it from this whiteness, which they deemed to be
silver. But it always remains whiteish, which demonstrates that
this whiteness is fixed, & it does not lack color. This is
electrum, from which one can make cups
which will demonstrate poison.
Various arts from GermanyThey are very much helped by water mills, &
most of the artisans of metals, of gold, & of
silver, & others,
make have their large works beaten with these trip hammers. And to draw iron
wire, they redden large masses of iron, & having made it
into a point, they hook it thus all red & thus promptly
draw the wire.
Repairing a medal
If you want to mold any medal to serve as your pattern, & at the
same time repair it, cast it in a majority of tin & copiously put in looking-glass tin to harden it.
Molding vases in several pieces
Goldsmiths who work in large wares and plate get whatever
wooden forms they please turned on a lathe. And then,
with some wax, they model on top masks, festoons, and whatever
they please. And next they mold in three, in four, or several
pieces.
GoldsolderThey take, for one golddenier, one
grain of the fine alloy, like old
douzains are.
Molding a flyLarge flies can be molded & g made
by casting. But one needs par d to anoint underneath
their wings with wheat oil, which dries quickly and
fortifies them & gives them a little thickness. The same is done to
butterflies, cicadas, grasshoppers &
similar things. But to cast them more easily, one applies them on some
leaf or bouquet. The others are made by hand with a very
thin silver sheet. One ought not to keep them once dead,
because they dry out and their legs break.Wheat oil is put underneath delicate things to render
them more rigid & firm & to make them hold their natural
position. Because being weak & delicate, the tempered sand, weighing down
their tops, would change their form.
BatThey have very thin wings, & if they are large & dry and
their wings extended, one would need a very large mold & it
would not be certain that the metal would run sufficiently. Thus,
when you want to mold them, choose the medium-sized ones & make the
pose qu so that they have their wings half folded. Because in
this way they will come out better, but support the side of the wings
with wax, as you know, to feed the cast well.
Very strong waxMix with this rosin and bole, and do not cast it very
hot.
Various alloys of tin and leadFor hollow things like turtles, halffine
lead and halftin.For flowers, almost all tin, namely a lb of fine
tin and two ℥ of fine lead.For lizards that are as thick as one or two
fingers, almost all lead, namely a lb
of fine lead and 4 ℥es of fine tin.
MoldsThey are less subject to cracking while reheating when they are very
thick, rather than when they are of little thickness, provided that
the thickness is sufficient. For being thin, they scarcely need to be
recui on the fire, & a long time on the fire
makes them corrupt, especially when the plaster is not
strong.It is better to reheat a mold on its own than several
together, because one needs a larger & more violent fire for several
than for one. And, glowing charcoal stopping up the space between
the molds, the heat reverberates from one to the other in such
a way that more often you will find your molds burst &
cracked on one side more than another.Therefore reheat your molds alone, not making fire there,
except to cover it.And because your lead and tin become sour when
frequently melted red, to soften, melt it without reddening, and
cast in a rod.Brick cools the metal, & if this were not for giving
bond, it would not be necessary.
The reheated molds cannot withstand several casts. But those in
which one wants to cast only lead or tinandor flat medals, having been only
dried, withstand many.Very finely ground iron scales render them very firm &
strong.
.
Molding hollow
This iron wire point, which is put thus
bi through the hole, is to better hold the
core & keep it from shifting. All of this being
d thus arranged, lay your mold on the
table, the hole at the top, as it is marked here on the side,
& then adapt a circle of soft clayaultr, two fingers high, around
the hole, like for other molds. And then temper your molding sand
moderately thick, & cast it through the hole until it is well well
filled, up to the surface of the clay circle. But take
heed to not cast r in through the middle of the
hole, but rather from the side, for, since the already made
mold drinks and sucks the moisture of the new, the
new one that you cast in which dries quickly on the edge of
the mold, being quickly dry, s would
obstruct the mold, & it would not finish filling. And when
you cast from the side, if you recognize that it is obstructed, you can
clear a path. Having cast in, blow on the fthe wet gate, & put the
end of your finger in the hole a few times, po
or some small point, to unblock it, & make the hollow
wax fill up. Cast in, at the end, the sand, tempered a little
thick to give strength to the mold, for water coming
to the surface sof the mold
always makes it softer. Having set, scrape off the clay
circle & the excess which is on the hole through which you
cast the noyau, & nothing will be discernable. When your
mold is thus prepared, lute it all around with the
same sand which served for the molds. Next, reheat it in a slow
fire at the beginning, & the mouth of the gate at the bottom, in
order that the wax flows out gently. For if you were
to give it great heat until the wax came out, it would boil
inside & leave some pustules & lumpy things, although
This point is placed in the middle & through the hole of
the gate when the mold is in several pieces, like a
turtle, and this is done in order that the core does
not shake. But when the mold is only of two pieces, it is not necessary
to put points in the middle of it.
Before casting the core, make some notches all around the hole
through which you want to cast, in order to always better secure the
mold.
Mixed tallow is the reason that, when emptying the wax,
the hole does not become obstructed. One needs halftallow & halfblack wax.
All very thick pieces come out better in hollow, because a thick mass of
mostly lead remains hot a long time & eats the
mold.
You can, after the cast is done, mold a the part of the shell
of the belly where you have made the hole on the natural
one, and reattach it with
solder.
X Note that, after your core is cast, it is
better to put the mold in hot water to open it, in order
to remove the most wax that you can, always softening
a it in hot water. For the less wax
that remains in it, the better, in order that, when reboiling in large quantity in
the mold when you reheat it, no pustules or lumps are made in
it. And then, if there is hardly any wax, you will not need to
reheat it as much. When opening the mold, the cast will break.
But it can easily be repaired, even though you
cast A
the white wax with which you have composed your black
sulfured wax, has such little substance, since being dry and
purified, that it leaves nothing inside, and flows very gently. As for
the charcoal which is mixed in, if some remains, it burns &
reduces to ash & is emptied afterward by blowing through
the gate. You could even open your mold after the wax
has melted, if there is no fanciful thing which could break, like some
reattached thing or similar. After having covered the clamps
with the lute from your sand & having covered all of the
mold, give it on top a layer of common lute, & then
sprinkle this with some pestled brick, in order that you can
handle it better. Let the lute dry slowly before firing it,
which melts the wax. The wax having left through the gate,
that which remains with the charcoal will burn. Being reheated
for the first time, lute it pou once more,
to reheat it the second time because the plaster, not
being good, will have readily made the mold retract, and the
joints will crack open, which might make large flashing. And for the second
time, one ought not to reheat it if you only want to cast in
lead or tin, but rather only make sure that the
lute is quite dry & the mold moderately hot. For
these turtles that have a large size & enough thickness, it
is better to mold ault cast your
lead an alloy half of lead &
half of tin, especially for hollow things. For, if you
only have very thin & very weak things to cast, like flowers, rely
rather on the abundance of lead than of tin, which becomes
porous once cast a little thick, & readily makes some flaw around
the cast. Maistre Alexandre says that he has never gone wrong
with halftin & halflead for things
weighty & with the thickness of the back of a
knife. If there is crocum, the joints hardly
appear, & consequently, the flashing is very small & thin. You can
repair & through the hole of the belly, pull the earth of the
core, leaving it wet a long time;
When you have cast your black wax in the amold, & when it is quite cold, you need to the
open your mold halfway, to make the cast. And if the
figure of black wax breaks, there is no danger, for it
can always be reattached with a hot irontouching
point. Or else, if the pieces are not separated from the
mold, qu they meet up & join like
beforehand by joining & binding well the two halves of the
mold. When the figure is large, one needs to cross
inside many iron wires to sustain the core.
Aonly in lead or
tin. However, one needs to redden the mold nearly as
much as if there were inside some animal to burn, in order that the
wax melts well & leaves nothing inside & flows on its
own by keeping the mold leaning toward the gate when
reheating it. And when the mold is reheated, leave it to cool
gently, then blow inside, and draw toward yourself, while sucking, in
order that the ashes of the wax come out. Do this with
bellows.
however, do not remove it until you have completely repaired the
turtle, for you will use this earth as cement if
you need to embed something or repair with the small chisel. If
there is some flashing at the joints of the mold, you will remove
it, either with the burin called a
chaple or a very sharp penknife,
or with a small file, & then with the small
chisel, always having the natural one, to do this better, in
front of you. You can curl on a file the point of a small
chisel which is not quenched to make something lumpy. For these
twoturtles & hollow things that
presuppose being large enough, cast your alloy of halflead & halffine tin. There is more work in
molding a turtle than for twelve molds of flowers. If
there is some crocum in your sand, there will not be
flashing, & if, by some chance, there is some on the sides, it will be
thinner than paper, as long as your mold is tightened
well with a press. And to make the scales of turtles
or other animals, you can make some little small chisels in
the fashion of a round cutting-punch, others in the fashion of a
gouge or the scale of a snake & lizard,
and others on a file to make the curly & lumpy bits. The
turtles which are not molded hollow do not have as much work,
for they are molded in two pieces, to repair them with small
chisels,small cutting-punches, small gouges
& small serrated chisels.
Wheat oilOne needs to make it between two quite sparkling hot iron
plates, especially the lower one, which will be sloping, on
which you will put some wheat, quite even & uniform.
And then you will place the other, all red, on top, & you will press
it until you see the black oil drip well. Reiterate that until
you have enough of it. This oil dries immediately. It gives gold
color to silvered & burnished things, augments the color of
gilded things, serves as a varnish on iron for
etching on it afterward, for varnishing sword guards tawny. And could
also serve makers of gilded leather well.One needs to use it when it is newly
made. And for things to be molded, it must not be as thick as for
coloring.
It is not for anointing hairy animals,
for it is too strong & stiff, but it is good to give form to the
legs of a small animal, like a fly & suchlike. It is also
excellent for coloring false white stones.
Molding a ratThe hairs of its whiskers would be awkward to come out in the
cast; you can therefore shave them with fire, like d
the tyrant of Syracuse,
& afterward you can replace them with d’arg natural silvered ones. The tail is beautiful molded because it
is made of scaly circles, nearly like the one of a lizard,
& in order that the hair does not hinder good molding, burn it in
the fire of a little candle. The rest of the body should be
anointed with wheat oil, which will keep the hair stiff
& couched, so that the sand will not raise it by getting entangled
in it to prevent coming out neatly. The wheat oil being
dry, which will be quick, you will be able to pass a very thin
comb to divide it, in order that it appears in the cast. On a
small mouse, you can even put some common oil to lower
the hair. And before molding these animals (except snakes &
lizards), let them rest remain dead one or two
days to have them more handleable. For they stay rigid
after their death & cannot be well fitted to their true shape until
they are a little softened. However, if you mold it quickly after it is
dead, or give it its shape before it stiffens, you will do well.
Au And because the eyes die, you there
some if you do not mold it promptly, you will be able to
substitute in the eyes the halves of well-rounded
peas, stripped of their skin & shell. Some make the
rat shed, others anoint it with olive
oil, which is amiable, for wheat oil is thick &
has too much body. This is why one scarcely uses it, only to give some
feature to a fly foot or under a wing to keep them rigid.
Others couch the hair with an egg yolk, which is
quickly dry & amiable. Shape it, before oiling it, on the
clay slab, and raise its head with an iron
point, & secure also the feet with points, & the tail. Rub it
with eau-de-vie, once dry from the oil. Then, cast your
sand; next, uncover it like other animals, & make the second cast.
One ought not to open the mold until it is reheated & the
rat burned.+
The rat, because it is thick, comes out better being hollow if
it is a big rat. A mouse molds better, because it has
shorter hair. It is not possible to mold well an animal that has
biggish bones, like a bird or rat, without
opening the mold to clean it well, for bones do not
calcine.All feathers & all hair is awkward
to mold according to its nature.Butter for anointing hairy animals
is better e than wheat oil, because
it is more amiable.If the rat is big, it is good
to remove its entrails, or, having molded it, to dry it in the
oven, because the large amount of moisture that it has comes to
boil in the mold, & spoils it & makes it lumpy.Do not put your moldin
the cold until it has slowly cooled dry. Otherwise it imbibes the
humidity, which makes it break.
Repairing cast things
It happens often that what you have cast makes flashing, either through
fault in the mold, or from the cast, or from the metal.
The fault in the mold comes from plaster, which is not
hard & strong and does not withstand fire (which is corrected by
mixing it with crocum). Usually as well, if there is an
imperfection, it is from the cast. If there is also too much tin
in a moderately thick thing, it does not come out well, because
tin cast thick retracts & becomes porous. Also, things
molded hollow are fanciful to cast. If, therefore, some flaw should
happen, take a leather cushionet full of fine sand,
& having placed it on the bequet of the
goldsmith’s table, where one files, place
your work on it & secure it with a ropewhich passes
under your foot. The sand in the bag
obeys & arranges itself by and by, thick on one side & thin on
the other. Then, forthwith, with a burin, make & trace
roughly the fine lines which were omitted or which are not apparent
enough, or with a file or a chaple, remove
the flashing. And if there is some fault in the substance, which left some
pit or too-hollow thing, rescrape this with a burin and
notch around the edge, then imprint this with some wax. And place
the imprint on a delicate plate of lead, & mark
thus the appropriate measure of lead or of the alloy similar to
your substance, then place the piece of the notched thing & attach
it well with some latten wire, then rub the edge with
rosin if it is tin or lead & place all around
some small thin pieces of solder or tin or other things,
then with a hot iron or in the fire of the
forge, solder, and next repair this with the aforesaid
tools & with the appropriate small chisels.
For gold & small work, one needs to cement it on a ball of
lead, which will be placed on the cushionet & will
be held thus with the rope.
Molding hollow for seals or other things
First, model your figure in wax on a piece of
glass or smooth slate. Next, mold it with our
aforesaid sand, l’ having first anointed lightly
with oil, as you know, & then rubbed with eau-de-vie,
having and tempering your sand with hot water. Having
the hollow form, cast it in alloyed lead, in the same form as other figures that you make very neatly. However, if it did not come
out at all neatly, repair it. And then, cast somemold
with somewax on the relief of lead, & you will
have a very neat hollow form in the wax, which comes out very neatly
on the lead. Next, in the hollow form of wax, cast your tempered sand, which will make for you a relief, on which you will cast your
hollow form in silver or another metal for seals. But note
that you should not make your hollow form with melted wax, but rather,
only heated in warm water, or, even better, in warm
urine. Or else, if you have a relief of gold or
silver, or other metal, very faço neat
& repaired, imprint on top your hollow form of wax, & then in
the latter, cast your sand, which will come out in relief, on which you will next cast your hollow form for seals or other works. You could even
cast a hollow form on the principal of metal relief, &
even with lead & tin, which will not melt the
principal if it is lightly anointed with crushed chalk with a paintbrush, or smoked with candle smoke or with
dried glair of egg.When you have imprinted your seal of
wax, mold en noyau this piece of wax, which is
hollow, like your seal, & your noyau will render it molded,
similar to u the imprint & the seal.
It is necessary that your wax be mixed with some color which
hardly has body in order that you see the imprint better. Lamp
smoke or soot black is good for this. White wax, for
this effect, is exc better.
Giving the thickness that you wish to a medal
Having cast your first mold, mix crocum or well-ground iron scales to firm it up.
And having set & rendered your hollow form very neat, take some
paste of fine
flour. And to flatten it, take a small stick of
boxwood, very round & of the same thickness
everywhere, which has, at the two ends, a little circle, more raised
than the rest, to give the necessary thickness to the paste. And
then, with this rolling pin, flatten it in such a way that it
is delicate & thin enough. Then apply it on the hollow
of your mold and press on it with some cotton
& your figure will imprint itself in the paste, in relief on
one side & in a hollow form on the other. This done, anoint with a
paintbrush, wetted in a little melted butter, the
part of the paste which is hollow. Then, cut the
excess paste which surpasses the hollow of the
moldH. Anoint your mold also with
olive oil, as you have done with others, place the
clay contour & cast s your
second mold. And you will have your medal as thin & hollow on one
side as you will want. You can have diverse rolling pins, which will
have ends, some more raised than others, to make various thicknesses, or
use sheets of lead & copper of various thicknesses
or of carton, cut with the rolling
pin.
If you were to rub your paste with oil, it would drink the
oil & penetrate up to the mold, which it would
attack. But butter remains on the surface of the paste
& is not imbibed at all. You should not, on these reverse sides,
temper your sand with hot water, for it would melt the
butter.
Testing the goodness and strength of a sand to be reheated
After it has set, it must be found smooth & easy to cut, and not
rough. It tests better in a large & fantastical mold than
in a small one, for the large one remains long in the fire & the
small one is soon reheated.
Softening goldSometimes, there is gold so dry it that neither
cement nor antimony can soften it. But only
verdet can render it soft.
Gold not being fixed
Gold as gilding goes away once the piece is reheated &
kept in high heat, especially if there is some lead, for
lead will pierce in the fire a piece with gold, because it
holds closely with ☿.
Cutting leadBecause it is fatty & grips & sticks to the knife or
chisel, wet it & you will cut it like glass.Sometimes gold & silver take on, through certain fumes,
some color during the casting. But these are not at all scales &
crust, but rather this color goes away with whitening
& bullitoire.
Sweetening silverWhen goldsmiths who work large wares have
forged their platters, it very often happens with their sheddings that
it bursts & cracks for being too soured. To avoid this, throw in,
when it is well melted, some dry mortar composed of sand &
good lime which has been worked, & pulverize it & throw
it in.Goldsmiths do not work at all with
the silver from reals that is not alloyed, because it is
leady & when forging it sours.
Some solder, for small works & things which only go in the fire
once, with some old sou & carolus, reheated & beaten.
However, if the sou is not very
good, the solder eats away & one needs to solder there twice,
& one finds there too much copper. Others solder with
halfsilver & halffine copper.
Iron scalesOnce well pulverized & ground on marble, &
mixed with the aforesaid sand of noyau, and dried slowly
without reheating, it endures several casts of lead &
tin. Copper & latten come out well. But if it
is not well ground, like crocum, it goes to the bottom,
if the sand is not tempered thickly enough.
Metal filingsThey are not made by themselves if they are not aided by some
portion of similar metal, melted to assemble them & put them
in a bath, for they are sooner burned than melted. Tin and lead
filings are made with tallow, the one of gold with
salpeter, the one of silver with sandiver.
LattenIt is very capricious to cast. It must be cast very hot. And to better
achieve your goal, throw on it some sal ammoniac to thin it. Alloy
it as well with a little red copper and, when you want to cast, a
little tin to make it run better. It always leaves a tail like
melted glass. It does not require as long a gate as
others.
Molding
It is only good that it die down a little on the outside &
nevertheless be red on the inside, for when it comes out of the fire,
the air & vehement exhalations of fire do not receive the cast so
well.
Casting of silverSilver needs a longish gate. For gold it does not
matter. Silver, when soldering, tolerates the water
one throws on it. But gold would spatter, & needs
that for that reason, one casts solderbran on the solder.
Let the mold cool well after the casting before opening
it.
Reinforcing flowers and delicate things
For flowers &delicate things
& herbage, one does not use wheat oil but melted
butter, of which one gives a light # coat
on the back of the petals of the
rose flower & the pansy & other flowers that
need it. But one reinforces the little legs of flies &
other small animals with wheat oil to strengthen them
& make them hold up.
with a small paintbrush
StrawberriesThe leaves are cast separately & then are joined with
solder. And because the strawberry fruit is cast solid,
& by that means is heavy, and the tin stem which is delicate
will not be able to hold it up without soon breaking, one makes the
stems with latten wire & then one solders & joins
them.
Molding a roseBecause the little branches of the rose bush
which are aupart around the flower are sometimes
very spread out & would make too large a mold, one makes
and molds them separately, and the rose & some
buds separately. And then one joins with solder the little
branches & leaves of the rose bush to the stem of the
rose on which one intentionally leaves the little tips of the
small branches. Put your leaf or rose as low as you can in the
mold because the sand always raises it up. You
en can also mold several petals together, once
arranged one on top of the other, separating them with threads,
as is said. And regarding the rose, you can give a thin layer
of melted butter on the back of the petal, ofon
the first petals on the outside, not those on the insidebe, to fortify it & give it the strength to
withstand, in order that the tempered sand does not spread out &
expand more than it should. You them can also mold well
the leaves of rose bushes, strawberry plants, &
similar things that are flat & can be flattened without spoiling
them with two gates, for opening your mold when it is reheated,
& cleaning the ashes from it, All and making vents
& several gates. And this is the easiest way, but the other can also
be done. And with small veins of wax adapted & joined from leaf to
leaf, you can make gates. You can even make a vein of wax from
the back of the first petal until, which will join
to the gate. All of this facilitates the cast. Aulcu
The principal thing is to let your reheated molds cool down
well rather than cleaning them & blowing inside them to make the
wax come out, because when the mold is hot, the ash
holds to it as if attached. But when it is cold, it wanders and leaves
with the air or when one blows one’s breath through the small
opening.
You can well give a bit of thickness at the ends of the stalks that
support the leaves, anointing them lightly underneath with melted
butter, because the leaves are large & weighty, and the stalk of
lead & tin would not have enough strength.
I would be of the opinion to mold the rose on its own with a
little of its stem close to its bud, & then to join it to a longer
one of tinned latten, because the rose in full bloom has great
volume & weight.
Wet the rose with eau-de-vie before putting it in the
circle of clay. Do not forget to oil the wax gate. And when you have cast your tempered sand, blow
thoroughly until it begins to set. The rose came out
well. But because the sand finds itself mixed among the petals, make your
work soak in water for a long time in order that, shaking it in
the water, the earth is gone from it.
RoseBecause the flower in full bloom is billowy & has its petals disordered
& turned in various ways, it does not appear beautiful if it is not
painted & also inasmuch as it has weight ou
for that the stem of tin, which is brittle &
delicate, would be unable to support. One molds the flower of the
rose on its own & separately, making its gate largeish in order
that it comes out b better. Then one cuts this gate
down closest to the stem of the bud, on which one grafts next &
solders a stalk of latten wire to which one also
solders the leaves. But because tin, being thus thin, is
troublesome to solder, and any leaf can be melted, and also
because the cast flowers & especially the rose are not
beautiful without being painted, one does not take pains to
solder, but one it grafts the pieces to join them
& one glues them with fish glue that has been
a little tempered & thickly melted. And in order that it imprints
better, one heats the tin work gently & at a distance, for
once cold, the glue would not take. After your flower is thus
repaired, you follow the joints of the added parts with modeling waxesb, which is a white wax mixed with
much well-ground ceruse or, even better, lead
white, melting it & applying it on your work with a small
hot point of iron. In this way you can repair these little
barbs that are in the middle of the rose or the holes
of the that may be in any petal. Next, you will paint your
rose according to nature. If you cast your rose in
gold or silver, you can join & solder well. And
in these same metals, when you have something delicate to join to
the flower, like a fly or something similar, fish
glue is singular for it & holds very well, fixing it with a
few small points which serve as nails. The leaves
& buds can be molded in two molds that can be opened once
reheated, but not before. Next, these said things are joined.
Molding promptly and reducing a hollow form to a relief
You can imprint the relief of a medal in colored wax, &
you will have a hollow form, in which you can cast en noyau a relief
of your sand, on which you will make a hollow form of lead
or tin, in which you will cast a wax relief. And then on
that wax you will make your molden noyau hollow, to cast there the relief of gold &
silver or any other metal you like. But to hasten your
work if you are in a hurry, make the first imprint & hollow form in
bread pith, prepared as you know, which will mold very neatly.
And into that, cast in melted wax, which will give you a beautiful
relief on which you will make your noyau.
Very light and hollow work of goldCast a lizard or any medal you like in base silver,
like billon. Next, gild it lightly. And once the first
gilding is done & dried by fire, brighten, rub with a
scratch-brush, & make another layer of light gilding
like the first time, & do thus three or four times or more,
according to the thickness you want to give. And then, having made a
small hole in the least visible place, put your work into good
aquafortis, which penetrating to the silver through the hole
will eat it all away without damaging the gold, so that you will
have a lizard hollow to its nails, or any other work, so light
that by blowing you will agitate it. But take heed not to make the layer
of amalgamated gold all at once, or of hardly any thickness each
time, because that would block the small features, but proceeding
therein as said, lightly & several times, and cleaning
well, you will do well.
In order for the aquafortis to eat away better, it is necessary
to cast cast in base silver.
ChasingLead is so fatty & soft that one cannot strike it boldly,
& one needs to have a very light hand. The other great
metals are easier. With a burin called the
onglet you make & retrace the more delicate lines,
with the ordinary engraving burin the broader ones, and with
the chaple you remove the big flashing, and with the
small chisels you soften the harshness of the lines, you smooth, you
add relief to a line.
Molding a flyTake the largest vo flies that go into
pantries, which are not hairy, if it is possible. If they
are, anoint lightly their down & capricious hair with
olive oil to lay it down. Also take them and use them as
soon as you can after they are dead, because if you were to leave them
to dry a lot, their e legs would break when you
want to spread them out. One needs also, to make them come out
better, to place them on something like a leaf, or similar thing, to
help the casting of their little legs, which are so frangible that, by
themselves, they would not come out well in the cast. They can be
planted on a sage leaf or similar. They are cast well in
silver & gold, but one usually makes the legs &
wings separately & one reattaches them. I have molded one on
easage leaf bouquet of
sage, which had seven or eight leaves. And to make its stance
att, I fixed its legs au on the
widest leaf with a little wax, melted & reattached with a
hot iron wire point. And in order that the wings come
out better, I anointed the underside of these with melted butter
with a little paintbrush. And with the same hot
iron wire point, I anointed the legs & feet with
wheat oil. And to lay down & couch the
downy hair that it had, I anointed it also
with a little olive oil.I did not leave the wheat oil to dry a lot, because
it is thick & has body, & the eau-de-vie does not take at
all.For unction, atallow is too harsh,
pork fat is too soft, and butter is the most
excellent because it is soon dry & curdled & melted quickly
& firmer. Take heed that the legs & feet are well set on the
leaf & not outside it, for that which exceeds would not come out
well, especially in silver, because this would exceed
the, so fine, would be of no help in the casting. And,
in truth, the feet which had been laid on the leaf came out well, but
those which straddled from leaf to leaf & remained in the void did
not come out in tin. The rest of the fly came out well,
and especially the bouquet of sage, which is very beautiful molded.
One could even cast it in gold & silver, without the
feet & without applying it on a flower, by making the gate under the
belly & reattaching with solder the feet &, if need be,
the wings with the same metal, & it could be enamelled
by fortifying the wings a little, & the feet, as said.
If your sage or branch has something to repair, do as said
below. And then paint according to nature.
Once cast in gold, one enamels the wings with window
glass from Lorraine, which is verdesin and
transparent.
One needs to make the gate for the fly from the bottom in
order with melted wax, adapted with the iron
point, as you know, to which the fly attaches itself,
& then the wax, while melting, serves as a gate for the
fly.
+
If some flaw happens to the wings of your fly, beat some
tin very thin, &or some gold or
silver if you have cast it in it, & with trim
with some scissors what one needs to reattach there, &
next, apply it with your small pincers & glue it
with fish glue, prepared as put below. And before, heat
lightly your work, in order that its coldness does not refuse the
glue, which will be soon dry, heating it from afar. Next, cover
lightly the joints of the reattached thing with some modeling
wax, which is white wax mixed with a lot of
ceruse or lead white, melting it well with a hot
iron point. You will also cut some small bits of
spinet strings & glue with the said
glue, & once dry, that is to say the feet, repair with this.
You will thicken them with the same melted wax, to render them
equal.
A means of goldsmiths for molding hollow
They mold in two cuttlefish bones their animal
or other work that they have either already made or modelled in
wax & cast in lead. Once it is well imprinted in the
two cuttlefish bones, they place between these
two bones a paper, & join the
bones & cast. The work comes out split in half. And
then, with ch a chaple, they
hollow out as finely as they please the two halves cast in gold
or silver, and then solder or braze them.
Rouge clair
Some goldsmiths assay it on gold, thinly beaten
esp & well burnished with a
chaple. But it is better to assay it on a gold
ingot. And also assay your substances in large or fantastical work,
since if they appear good & extraordinary in large work, they will
show excellently on a common work.
Cleaning and degreasing your works cast from tin and
others
Make some lye, carefully passed through good ashes, and since it is recent & not fatty,
boil your molded work in it. And
the tallow and fat leaves it.
Arranging plants or flowers for casting
Always put at the top the principal side of the thing, because it comes
out better and neater than the bottom. Make the gate wide & make it so that
the supraplus (which is the
masselote for founders of large castings),
Et especially for silver, which wants the
mold quite hot & to be cast very hot. Very thin things want
to be cast very hot.
When you know that the stem of a flower, burned in a mold which
does not open, is quite reduced to ashes, it is a sign that the
rest is well burned.
FliesThey mold better on a single leaf than n on a
bouquet or a flower or the branch of a plant, because the single leaf
molds in two halves, which, once reheated, can open and clean well, &
the cast is made better. Take heed when taking the fly to not
break the legs & to not let it dry too much, for then the legs fall
off. And if this happens to you, glue with fish
glue the same legs and with wax, or fashion some out of
swine bristle or spinet string. Fix the leaf
on the clay slab with two points, and the
fly with one point in the middle of the body, &
the legs with some wax.
Ash in the moldsOne needs to let the mold cool before blowing to make the
ashes go out. For when the mold is hot, they adhere
against it, & once cold, they separate from it more easily
& go away in the blowing with the wind as vapor.
Molding a birdOne needs to give it its shape. And to do this, place it on its side
on a clay slab, and hide & sink within it half the
said bird, in order that it only shows one leg
& one foot, then you will anoint it with butter to make it
hold the feathers down, finally ofoileau-de-vie. And then cast. And being set, clean &
uncover whatever needs it. Next, mold the other side in the same way. But
because the feet, being of bone that is difficult to burn & which
are not able to be cleaned neither by quicksilverIf nor by any other means, if the mold would not
open, uncover the bottom of the feet & the toe or the little finger
of the claw, & mold as a separate piece. Reheat & open your
mold & clean the bones. The feet usually remain too
weak to support the mass of a solid bird. And for this reason,
one adapts an iron wire in the mold of the
feet which passes into the body before casting; thus, they are
reinforced. Some mold the wings in a frame. Others mold the
head & the said wings separately en noyau, then join &
repair them to first model a form that will be stiff & withstand the tempered sand.
They are skinned & filled with cotton cloth. &
even better, one needs to dress them in the fashion that curriers
do, in order that they do not lose a feather, weight it. The
dressing is alum & paste of flour.
For making h… wine
f…rsTake a sock from the right d foot
that has been worn and make
drink at it soak in water, and of the water that comes out,
make that same person or someone else drink it, and you
will see marvels.
Mercury in the molds for cleaning
Heed well that your mold be quite cold before blowing to make
the ash go out, and next put in the ☿ to
achieve the cleaning. For if the mold is hot, the
☿ penetrates within &, in flight, seeks out
conduits & leaves an odor of itself, which sours the
tin or other metal that you will cast there so much that
it will break if it touches it even slightly. The heat of the
mold also retains small grains of ☿
that make lumps, & contracting to the edge of the molded leaves, are
joined there & make the leaves frangible. The
☿ cleans the ash well, especially flat
things where there are not delicate lineaments which could be broken by its
weight. And thus, if you can cast neatly without putting it in, do not
use it. But if it is necessary to use it, mix your sand with
crocum in order that it withstands the fire well. And
after having put in the ☿, evacuate it, turning
the mouth of the mold downwards. Next, reheat the
mold gently in order that the ☿ be gone
from everywhere. In this way I have cast a branch of
periwinkle, leaves & flowers, very neatly, having given to the
flower a layer of melted butter on the back of the flower with a paintbrush.
Reheat the mold very red before q casting in it, in
order that the ☿ exhales well.
Colors for green leavesOne usually paints them in oil, because distemper
colors have no hold. For marigold flowers, lightly ground
minium for some, & for others which are more yellowish, a bit of
massicot with it. For green, the verdigris has depth &
is too dark. If it is a yellowish green, you can mix with the
verdigris a little yellow ocher & stil de grain
yellow. If the green is dark, put with it charcoal of peach
tree pits, which makes a v greenish black, in the
same way that black of ox foot bone looks bluish. And
thus, by judgment & discretion, put the color on the natural
flower or leaf to see whether it comes close. But layer it
transparently, so as not to cover the lines of the work.
Large moldsBecause of the great weight of the metal, they want to be put
in a press in order that they do not open.
Candle smokeIt makes it come out neater, & even if it is a little
thick, it does not hold to any place because it has no body. I have thus
fumigated my noyau molds for tin &
lead, and have cast in the cold mold, well dried
beforehand, and it came out very neat. It is true that lead mixed
with half of tin was very hot, because the medal was thick.
Gate
Even thoughIf the medal is very thick, for
this reason do not give it as thick a gate. It suffices for the gate
to have half of its thickness. But if it is thin,
give it a gate of its thickness. Do not forget to make vents in the gate
where typically the material becomes porous.
Never forget to oil the wax gate when you mold plants
or flowers, otherwise it breaks & cannot be taken out.
Wax portraits
If they are painted with colors on the wax, & if the
wax is not tinted & mixed with color within, the color lifts
off & is undone if you mold them en noyau, but the portrait
is not spoiled. One needs to oil them lightly, bathing in
eau-de-vie & tempering with hot water. If they are
varnished, one needs to mold them two or three times to lift off the
varnish, which sticks to the mold. After it is removed,
you will be able to mold nealy. If they are on wood, one needs to
saturate the wood with very hot melted wax, for otherwise the
mold would be attached to it. Lead white is much better
for mixing with white wax than ceruse, for lead
white is firmer & whiter.
Chiseling
If the small chisel has passed through some part of a portrait,
one needs to repair & retrace it all. Otherwise, it would look like a
joined piece.
Fish glue
Beat it very fine & thin on a well-cleaned anvil, &
next wet it with eau-de-vie over chhot
ashes & a low fire, & it will be quickly melted; & if it
is not strong & thick enough, add eau-de-vie. And take heed
them not to put it to melt in a fatty vessel, but in
a new one, if you can. It is melted on the fire & is also dried
quickly on the fire, but it may be warmed from a distance once on the
work. It holds strongly. With it one joins flowers & delicate things
of gold, of silver, of tin & other materials,
which are in danger of spoiling if soldered.
Tin and lead
They are beaten very thin without itself. And the tin
does not sour & crack as lead often does,
Ma although it is more fatty, but one reheats it
under hot ash. And it is necessary to beat them with several
leaves together.
Cleaning files
Sometimes they are fattened, & by means of the grease, the
lead, which is fatty in itself, or other filings, attach
to it. And you will be able to clean them either with hot
charcoal or a scratch brush made of wires of
latten.
CarnationIt is molded like the rose, marigold & all
other flowers thus, as is said, namely, whole-mold flowers, & all
the leaves, if you want, in two halves, joining them by solder
for the most secure way, even if you could mold them together in a closed
mold. I cast one that came out very well. But one needs very thin sand & to blow strongly.
MoldsMake the two sides so that they are, es if it is
possible, one as thickness as the other, in order that they
can be quite evenly reheated. When you mold some animal that should be
burned you, like crayfish, you cannot open it to
clean it, & make the cast so that it is not reheated. And when they
are reheated one time, keep them scarcely at all without casting, for
they are rendered musty & moist, & the mold is undone
& loses its strength.
The part where the back of the animal is is usually thicker.
Plaster alone
Reheated stone plasterfears is undone in
water, but that which is reheated & first
pulverized and then reheated does not fear it. But if it is good, it
hardens in it, like the one of Paris &
Spain, which is hard in stone, as is that which
grows in lean & dry earth and which seems like
white salt. Germans make statues for their fountains
with it, which are not spoiled, especially once varnished, but it hardens in water. When it is alone & not mixed, it sets more quickly than otherwise. One needs to oil very lightly
your molds that are of metal or stone, otherwise it would
not release. And however you oil, you have to temper it with hot
water. And when it has set & well cooled, one
needs to wet it sometimes in cold water, but if it refuses to
open, in hot water & sometimes in boiling water.
Sometimes one even needs to make the mold boil in hot
water, as when you have molded some wax that you fear would
not be easily released from it.Cold water makes oil withdraw to the surface of the
plaster that has sucked it in, & thus it releases.
Press for the large moldsThey are two sheets of iron attached by four
small iron pillars, in such a way, however, that
theythe upperare is able to have play
& run freely the length of the pillars, & that the
lower one is fixed. At the end of the pillars is affixed an
ironSt. Andrew's cross, in the middle of which is a
screw which tightens the sheets against the
molds which are between the two. Or, for small molds,
one makes a frame, & having put the molds between
two plates of iron, one sets tightens them in
the frame with wedges. The large wooden
presses made with screws, besides being heavy to put near to the
forge for casting, one cannot know when they tighten too much,
& very often, they break the mold.
The screw is riveted to this stirrup, which is
nailed onto the upper plate, & by this means,
raises it & presses it.
Sand for flowersIf it is cast thick, it bears down too much on the flowers &
constricts them & reduces them as if massed together. Take heed
therefore to temper it until thin, & blow strongly before the flower
is covered. Cast at the side of the mold. And tempering the sand,
one ought not only to turn the spatula but to beat the sand in
water as if you were beating glair of egg.
Molding a foot or handMix resin among the wax, & having incorporated it
well, soften them in hot water or urine, &
then make an imprint by pressing, & next cast in plaster,
& it will come out quite neat & will release well.
Delicate work of gold and of silverOne can make flies from it by hand without casting, &
the wings & feet can be joined by solder, which cannot be done with delicate works of lead & tin because
they would melt. And the work of gold can be
enameled.
Catching crayfishAttach to the tip of a stick some liver or lung of a
cow or sheep, & with a small string
you make a basket hang from the tip of the said
stick. Put in water where crayfish eat,
& they will quickly come to accumulate on the flesh. Extract gently
from the water, & those who want to go back into the
water will fall into the basket.
Catching passerinesIf they sleep in straw, like they usually do,
close to the house, leave the closest window open & put
in a lighted candle, but so that the candle is hidden
& that its light only appears throughout the room & through the
window, and all will enclose themselves in the room. But it is necessary
that the night be dark & without
☾.
Catching birdsIn winter, when the birds have molted, skin them
& fill them with stuffing cloth&, or
else dry them in an oven #. Then arrange
them on the trees, & have someone who sings, & you will
gather them & catch many.
in an oven that is scarcely hot In
winter. ilAndin summer
this is done because, before they would be dried, the fly would
get into their eyes and make worms. In
winter they are prepared better & dry by themselves.
Preparation of sand for framesAfter your sand de noyau dalu of gip
of lateribus &
alume jameni was used en noyau,
gather the pieces of molds, break them on a long table
with a large billet in order to pulverizes
them well, and, better yet, sieve it finely. Put
them in some pots into the tiler’s oven or
bread oven, several times when it is well lit, in order that
they become very red. Once cooled, repestle them, if need be, and
sieve. Next, put it in a neat, adequate dish
or semal or vessel, and wet it with clear
water, and grind it & stir with a thick stick until it
is well wetted & washed & the filth goes to the
surface of the water, & continue to stir it thus, like the
gip mat that one prepares to gild with burnished
gold, five or six days, until it is not at all
lumpy. # nota And, each time that
you stir it again, leave it to rest & empty the clear water
which will be on top by tilting or with a bowl or
sponge, and put some clear water back in, & thus
wash & stir it until it is well fine & purged of all
filth. Nota #. Next, leave it a little
to drain and dry, and make from it some little balls tempered
in sal ammoniac water, and once thus d dried
l, put them to reheat at great heat in a reverberatory
furnace, where they should be be quite red, a good space of
time. Once they are reheated in this way, pulverize them & try
to mold something in a frame, having moistened your
powder with sal ammoniac water. And reheat & redden the
frame, & if your sand retracts, one needs to pulverize
again & wet it in sal ammoniac water, reduce into little
balls & reheat it & redden & continue so many times that it
does retract from the frame when you redden it. The main thing
is that it is well reheated, for otherwise the sal ammoniac would
not calcine well & render the sand coarse, & for this reason,
one does not need too much sal ammoniac in it.
#Nota that one needs,
before drying it, to wet it all and le empty the
liquid in another common vessel, leaving the litharge,
in order that the stones & earth remain at the bottom
afterward. One needs to let it rest & empty the water by tilting,
& leave it dry.nota
Crocum ferriIt is promptly made if you put the filings, well cleaned
& washed, in an iron case, two
fingers high & covered, & redden it thus in a
reverberatory furnace, having washed it in good vinegar
for the space of a day. And it will be well burnt
p & clean, mixed and ground finely on
marble. Being well ground & once it is quite fine
the, the vinegar will bite it quite easily & will
soon give it redness & bonding, wetting it with the strongest you
can find & next setting it aflame. And in three or 4
ignitions wettings & ignitions, it will be ready. This one
is columbine color & is found firmer for casting than that which is
redder & the color of miniumbole, made of rusty filingscoe, & has more tincture. Others burn the
filings several times on a reddened iron shovel,
showering it each time with vinegar.
For the workshop
It can be gathered from the words of Herodotus that the
navigation of the Portuguese was not newly invented by them, as
they brag. At the beginning of the first book entitled Clio, he
says that the Phoenicians would come from the Red Sea
by continuous navigation to the coast of Greece, mainly to
Argos, to which they would carry merchandise from
Egypt & from Assyria, which they usually sold out
of within 6 days.Navigation, trade
Herodotus, on the first page of Clio, says that the
Greeks were on a long ship on the coast of Colchis
& to the river Phasis, whence they carried off
Medea.Galleys
Herodotus, on the third page, says that Gyges
presented to the temple of Delphipateras aureas sex pondo 30
talentorum.Gold vases
Herodotus. Halyattes, the father of Croesus,pateram ex ferro compactilem
apud Delphos dedicavit spectatu dignam inter omnia quae sunt Delphis donaria, opus Glauci Chii qui solus omnium
compactionem ferri excogitavit.Compactile
ferrum, which is made by assembly
& things joined.Iron vase joined and solderedAs small peddlers lay open small wares in order to buy
richer ones & to profit more and more, so I, from a desire to learn,
am exposing what little is in my workshop to have
it receive, through a common commerce of letters, much rarer
secrets from my benevolent readers.
Aes ustum Once finely pulverized, it molds very neatly & has a certain
fatness that gives it bond, | more than
crocum, & I believe that it would not be
inappropriate for a cast.
Rotten woodThe one which is white, light like a sponge, once burned in
a closed fire, can be used for a frame for lead and
molds very neatly. But such things do not endure the fire.
Peach treeBecause they sprout & flower among the first, & thus are
caught by the chfrost, one
lays them bare at the roots during winter in order that
the winter the cold slows
them and that, leblossoming later, the flowers come to profit.
Olive treesIn Spain, one lays them bare at the roots during
winter, & in summer one plants them
well with earth.
Bittern foot
To mold it, it is better to spread the toes & nails out well on
something flat & leave it thus to dry a few
days, because, in drying, the scales appear coarser
& the nerves & tendons become more apparent, and thus the
molded foot will be more artistic.
Molds of things that do not release
Animals that do not release can only be molded in two
molds, which should not be opened until after they are well
reheated & the enclosed animal is well burned. Animals that have
bones or scales, which do not reduce into powder but rather remain as
calcined lumps, will never leave through the gate, whatever blowing
one does or whatever quicksilver one puts there, or a
feather quill during molding to use as a gate. This is why one
molds in two halves, in order that, the mold being opened after
having been reheated, the burned thing can be cleaned out well. But take
heed to let it cool well, in order that, when removing the
clamps, being hot, and when it is most frangible, something
does not break. The crust & ashes that it leaves &
which adhere to the mold while it is hot are removed better
once cold. Note also that on the bottom side of the mold, when
you reheat, the animal which boils leaves some filth. And, on
this occasion, one always marks the mold where the back of the
animal is, in order that, when reheating, it is above & on top &
that through this means it is neater.
PerfumerThey readily put half of amber & half
of musk & very little civet, because amber
always overtakes the principal scent of musk.To spare the amber, they readily put a little musk in
the white layers, &pour l which gives a more
forceful scent. But to remove la or hide the
blackness of the musk, they put in a bit of wheat
starch from England, which is perfectly white.When the amber To perfume with white
amber in the Portuguese fashion, take a
huchau of amber, well broken up. And having put in a
small silver bowl a silverspoonful of flower oil, or lacking that,
ben oil, that is to say, a silver
spoon that one uses at the table, put in your
ambergris & place all on a low fire, and it will melt quickly
if your amber is good, & it will remain there without lumps.
Once all melted, put in the size of a pine nut of
civet, & make it melt, & mix it well together. Next, take
your gloves, well-cleaned & well-dried, & dipping the
tip of your finger very lightly on on the
edge of the oil, spread it on the glove, little by little
& with patience, & rub the glove between your
hands, & trace the fingers & the stitches, one after
the other. And leave it to dry. Next, trace again as before until the
amber is all laid down.
Eau-de-vieIt is excellent for molding neatly, such that in the place where you
do not put any, the sand will usually attach to the figure. But it needs to
be in three passes. And because it does not take easily on oiled
things, I believe that it would be good to put some amongst the
water in which you temper your sand.
CrayfishThe hairy cornicles that it has under its beak
coe tend to come out lumpy & not neat because,
being burnt, it is difficult to remove them & clean their
ash, which, staying in the mold, it prevents
the metal from running well therein, & for that reason, one
makes a small gate of wax thread at the tips of them, both to
hold them up and to blow out the ash that hinders.
Spare no pins, placing them not only in the middle of the body
but also on the big legs, and two or three at the tail, according to the
stance that you want to give it.
CrocumThat which is rusty by itself, being showered with salt water
or vinegar or urine and then th
dried out and reddened in fire, is very red ground on
porphyry and is of the color of Levant
bole, & approaching minium. But that which is showered
with urine & dried out acquires a deeper tincture
& approaches crushed aes ustum or vermillion.
But the first one, finely ground, acquires a bright red color, in
the like cinnabar, in eau-de-vie. And the ones and
the others, prepared as said, and finely ground & rendered very hot,
give off red fumes like a volatile spirit if, being thus hot
and fine, one throws on top vinegar, urine, or
eau-de-vie. Urine gives much tincture, and
eau-de-vie also.
Repairing
It is better to repair little with the burin called
onglet, or with that which one calls
chaple, or some small file. But above all,
avoid touching your work, but only the flashing or the lump that will have
occurred during the cast. And while repairing, wet & rub with your
very small hog bristle brushes.
Gate
When you make the gate of some delicate animal, like a snake,
make it come from the side of the belly & under the tail, for from
the side, there are only straight lines, which are a lot easier to
repair than the back, which is more visible & more marked.
Repairing flashing
Having gently removed it with the point of a chaple or
burin, scrape it with the side of the burin, or gently
with a small file, & rub with willow
charcoal & little brushes. Make continuous the lines
disturbed by the flashing.
Leady silver
It degrades a lot, because the lead which is mixed in works it
like in the cupel, and makes it jump in little balls at the
edges of the crucible & on the charcoal which
covers it. It is also fatty, and thus it is good to melt all coined
silver, like reals & others, & to put it in ingots
before melting it for casting lizards & animals, for it
comes out better. I molded some as neat as the principal, such as a
little viper of silver, and I made the alloy out of 4
reals, of 20 sous from
Spain, & a coin of xx
sous from France.
Blowing
When you melt silver & gold, do not blow strongly
& with violence, because with the charcoal
consolidating, the crucible would lower &
the silv could fall over. But when your mold is
ready, at that moment, blow strongly to heat well the silver or
gold. Both, once melted, want to be blown from above with
small bellows, especially gold, for this removes their
fumes & softens them.
Molds
For those which in which one needs to burn something and
which do not open before being reheated, one does not make any casts
before it is reheated. For large molds in which the gate is big
and ample, it is necessary that the gate be well notched &
scratched, in order that the weight of the metal does not go with
much force. They make hardly any flashing if they are pressed. But before
pressing them, put between them and the press some pieces
of plump & thick felt, which is hardly yet crushed, for it fills the concavities & keeps the mold from
cracking. The clamps should be placed before reheating or
drying it.
When the earth from which you make the earthen
slab to arrange your animal is too soft, the points that
you put in it come out easily & come undone when you cast in the
sand, & thus the mold spoils and the shape comes undone.
Therefore, when you recognize that your slab will be too tender & soft, spread on top some hot ashes & blow with
the bellows.
Sand
If there is not enough good feather alum or
crocum, it will easily crack in the fire. But if it is
mixed with it, as it should be, it withstands it. It is recognized to be
good when, being hot after the cast, it quickly imbibes water
when one quenches it & rends breaks
easily because the alum & the crocum render
it spongy. On the contrary, bad sand, which is only of plaster &
brick, & little mixed with alum, breaks easily in the
fire & hardens in water. Cast, if possible, all in one
go.
Molds
Even though you cast in lead, the molds want to be well
dried, especially when they are large, and one needs to redden them on
the outside & keep them in continuous heat until they no longer
smoke from inside. Do not place them to reheat at different
times, but continue once you have started. And do not place them
to cool in the cold, with for they would crack,
but leave them to become lukewarm near the fire, & when they are still of such a heat as you have noticed before by putting
your finger in the hole, cast. And when the
mold is large, it needs more time to reheat & dry, & one
needs to cast hotter.
Repairing
If in your cast there occurs some little hole, mend it with
gummed modeling wax that is black or gray.
LakeIf, once it is ground, you let it dry without keeping it in
water, it will dry out & you will have as much trouble
grinding it as before. La
Stretching a canvas picture
If it is crumpled & creased from being rolled up, moisten it
from behind with a wet sponge, & you will stretch it very
evenly without spoiling it.
Plaster for molding
When it is long to set & dry, it is a sign that it is too fatty
& moist, which is what makes it contract in fire & crack,
causing flashing. That which is drawn from lean soil is the best.
Molds of fatty plaster ought not to be kept for a long
time, for they act like fatty earth, which when drying by itself,
cracks. It is best to reheat them soon after they are made, &
to cast. Good plaster keeps a long time in
molds.
It needs to be well oiled, for it is more difficult to separate
the two halves of the molds than when it is mixed.
Dragon’s bloodIt can be imitated with lake, which surpasses the dragon's blood in beauty if, tempered in oil, you glaze on gold or
silver. Tempered in varnish, it dies.
Repairing snakes and lizardsYou could well make some puncheons according to the form of
their scales, & making some bigger & some smaller, according to
the shape of the neck, the body, & the tail. If there is something
broken, you can graft it on with small pieces points of
iron or steel wire, & glue with fish
glue, & then cover it all with gray or black wax. But it
is necessary to let the glue dry for one day
without touching it.
Stance of animals
Not only with iron points but with melted
wax, animals are secured on the earthen slab.Wash them first in clear water, once they have died in the mixture of
vinegar & urine, & with a sponge
purge their mouth, eyes, and head of the slaver which comes out,
for the sand would never set well there and would become
lumpy.
If you want to make them keep their mouths open, put in a little bit of
spinet string, which will not take up space.
Keeping animals
Having molded them once, if you want to keep them for molding again,
put them back into the mixture of urine, vinegar
& eau-de-vie where you killed the others, and they will keep
for a long time without spoiling. If you have a cut on your hand,take care that this mixture does not touch it.
MoldsOnce molded, do not keep them for a long time, but rather use them
u as soon as you can, because when kept a long time,
they are subject to corrupting.
When they are reheated, the thing comes out better.
LuteWhen reheating, you can use common lute. But when you want to
cast, strip the mold of it & promptly, with a
brush, layer the lute of plaster that has been used for
molds, for it will be dry when it is placed, & cast.
One needs to mainly put this lute on the joints.
SilverWhen it quivers once melted, it is a sign that it is quite
hot, & because usually it is leady, it is good to throw in it
some lime mortar, for this attracts & gathers the
lead.
Fly wings
In order that they come out better, put from the gate to the edges
of these some veins of wax. Make sure also that under the belly
there is enough wax, for this is what makes the gate.
Joining some fly wings, or similar
They are joined with fish glue mixed with
eau-de-vie over slow fire, heating also the work. Then, this is
covered with modeling wax, which is grey.
For the workshop
If something is omitted: the harvester is not reproached for
leaving some ears of wheat. If any artisans complain
that one discovers their craft secrets, and if the
goddesses of Eleusis
complain, as they did to N. the
Pythagorean, that one has divulged their mysteries, excuse
yourself based on the words of the ancient Hebrews quoted by
Josephus.
As the hen carefully searches the garbage thrown out of a
house for a crumb or a grain that she divides among her
chicks, thus one distributes to orphans that which
has been sought among the arts considered vile & abject.
Tablet of Cebes, idle, but the
workshop represents all things
active.
If the jealous disapprove that these things are picked up & taken
from others, reply that since Nullum est jam dictum quod non dictum
aut factum sit prius, & that one
holds that all arts were invented in the space of a thousand
years, so that you do not think that you are able to invent
anything new but rather rediscover anew the books of Numa,
buried par & long unknown & forgotten, in order to
publish them for those who do not know them; so that as the
preceding day is teacher for the subsequent,
thus you needed to learn from those who preceded you in order to teach
to those who come after. The Latins took from the
Greeks, as Cicero
from Plato &
Vergil from Homer.
Aulus Gellius,Valerius Maximus
only made a collection from various authors who had already
written. Livy made his xxiii book from the 2nd or 3rd of
Polybius.Serapis was deemed the inventor
of agriculture among the Egyptians & nevertheless, so was
Ceres among the Sicilians. Pythagoras &
others from Tyana learned by their travels the disciplines
which they claimed to have invented in their country, &c. Will one
not say the weaver has made a cloth or precious stuff, even
though he did not dye & twist, wind & prepare the bobbins and
balls of thread? Will one say the mason has not made a
house, but only piled up ready-made stones?
Apollo a Chironemedicari didicit
& tamen deus medicinae habitus.HomerusOrphei poema imitatus est, nam cum
Orpheus sic prius exorsus esset: Iram cane,
deam dea, Cereris frugiferentis, ita reddit
Homerus: Iram cane, dea, PelidaeAchillis.
In Justino martire, circa
principium.
To the Greek examples, there can be added a psalm of
David of which St. Athanasius makes mention
enin Sinopsi. It begins Parvus
eram & in the second versicle the
royal prophet says, Manus meaeManus meae fecerunt organum et
digiti mei aptarunt psalterium.
Keeping chestnutsOne needs to leave them in their bristled shells until one wants to
eat them. And with this, leave them in a humid place or the
gutter of some roof.
Scentedcandle from Le MansAmong the wax & candle they melt rosin
that in France is called of Burgundy, which is white
& not as brittle & dry as the other rosin. They also
perfume the tip and the wick.
Softening goldDissolve caput mortuum in distilled vinegar,
filter & congeal in salt, & cement
☉ with this, and it softens it
marvellously.
Augmenting the color of goldPut aquafortis of vitriol on hot ashes. Cover the
bottle, that is to say, the mouth, with a tile, then unstop
it & thick fumes will come out; put the gold on this
and it will take on a high color.
PetardsPetards are made of the best alloy of metal & fine
rosette that one can, in order that they do not burst,
namely one part of metal & two of fine
rosette or old cauldron, which is even better. Some
are of fifteen or seventeen lb & ch are
loaded with two & a half lb of good grain
powder, & they are for applying on windows & common doors.
Others are of the weight of 25 to 27 lb and are loaded with 4
lb of powder. Others weigh 45 lb & are
loaded with eight lb of powder. And thus they are formed
according to the effort they have to make. On the outside, they are of a
regular shape, but on the inside, they are made like a
crucible, narrower on the inside of the breech & becoming wider
toward the mouth. And this is to give force to the breech, because of
the quantity of powder they hold, & so that they do not
burst. At the breech one gives them Those of 45 lb
have a thickness of eight lines at the breech & become
thinner on the inside toward the muzzle, which is of 4 lines.
They are xiii thumbs breadth long & seven in diameter at
the muzzle & opening.
Those of 27 lb or thereabouts are ix inches long & six in
diameter at the muzzle. At the breech, they are vi lines thick,
& 3 at the muzzle. The ones weighing 17 lb are 8
inches long & five at the muzzle. One covers them all
together, all the forks & pegs &
tools which one uses, with a thick canvas or thick
cloth in order that they do not make any noise. It
s is good that they should sit loaded for some time.
After one has put the powder in, one tamps it down quite
thoroughly, and then one puts in pressed paper, then a
cake of wax
well tamped down, & on the wax another plate of
cork that goes in quite precisely & with force. In this way,
the powder remains well sealed & gives much greater violence,
& if you wish, you can put on the plate of cork one of
wood pierced in the middle, if the petard is pierced at the
breech, which one holds to be the easiest, & which makes for greater
penetration because it cannot recoil. And for those that have a pierced
breech, one must have a good gimlet to first make the hole in
order that the peg, which is made in with a
gimlet-like point, may attach the petard faster & without
noise. And to for these, one must cover the button, which is
quite evenly filed, p with waxed canvas, or
add wax to it in order that it precisely plugs the hole of the
breech. But because the doors are sometimes iron-clad & the
iron pegs cannot pierce it, one uses an iron
fork made like pincers & another iron rod
q made with three claws at the end, as you see
depicted. And in this way, the petard holds itself well & is quickly
placed. The iron pegs must extend from the petard with
the entire point that is made like a gimlet, namely by three or
4 fingers, which goes entirely l
into the door. When the petards are placed, one fills the touch-hole
with good pulverin and
s one puts in it a feather quill filled with
powder tightly pressed & moistened with vinegar, or,
if needed, one presses the powder in the hollow of the hand &
having wetted it with saliva, one makes from it
something like a cocoon or
a peg which one puts into the touch-hole, & then, with
a rope wrapped around the end of a stick, one gives fire &
promptly retreats to take cover. The small petards of 16 or 17
lb are attached promptly with a short hooked peg made
like a wimble, & if the petard
is of a good alloy, one can give fire by hand just as one does
with petards of 27 lb, but then one only puts in three
lb of powder. It must certainly be a strong door if the
seventeen lbpetard does not blow it up. Some use little
bells worn by oxen or mules on a
peasant door. Others load two pistol barrels &, with a
gimlet & a string, attach them with the muzzle
against the door. If the petards are good & do not explode, they
only recoil and cannot do harm if one is next to them.A. This is a small peg, hooked like the hinge of a door
& made like a gimlet on one end, for quickly
attaching a small petard with ear of fifteen or xvii lb for a
common door or window.B. This is a small petard with ears.C. This is a larg common petard of 27 or 30 lb
pierced at the breech, through which a large iron peg
passes, button-like on one end & made like a
gimlet at the point, for quickly attaching the petard
against a door that does not haveis notcovered with iron plates.D. These are plates of wax, cork & wood
for loading the petard & sealing the powder well.E. ThisIron fork made in the form of pincers
of the height of a man, to quickly place the mortar
without a peg. It must be of soft iron in order
that its branches bend easily, if need be, to fit to the height or width
of the door.F. This is another iron fork of the same height that
props up the fork made like pincers & also supports the
petard, and with its claw at the bottom prevents the pincers
from recoiling.
G. Petard with ear, placed with its
peg.H. Knife-like saws to cut a portcullis, if needed.I. The large iron pegs which traverse & attach
the petard.K. These are common iron pegs, very round &
covered with canvas, like all the rest, to turn the large
iron pegs pierced close to the head.L. Axes that one must always carry to finish breaking down,
if by chance the petard has left anything whole.M. A large mallet of wood for knocking down what was
begun & weakened by the saws or
gimlets.N. Are large augers & gimlets of
wheelwrights for smoothly cutting a door or window by
making large holes close to one another.O. Crutches of the height of a man, which it is
necessary to carry to quickly put under a portcullis after the petard
has gone off & to prevent the portcullis from falling.P. Are small iron pincers for putting some petard
low on the straight part of the bolt or strap hinge of
the door.
List of processesMolding turtlesFurry animalsBirdsLeaf of a vine - putOf strawberriesMolding diverse piecesMolding a vessel in a frameMolding capilli veneris
& plants that needthreads for their supportMolding a bouquetRosecarnationsMolding hollowHollow gilded silverMolding crab - put+ Crayfish put and
seenGrasshoppersBarbelsButterfliesFliesBatsEnameling very thin goldMolding in sugarMolding fishCasting in sulfur - putCarton+ PWax
putModelingStamped medals full of leadMolding large pieces carved in woodMolding and making hollow forms of animals from metal+ Wheat oil put and
seenStag beetleFoot of a bittern moldedThickness of a medalVery hard waxMolding a pring and that which is engravedMolding pieces of carcanetsThings that are not releasedFountainsGrottosDiverse mosses appliedMolding in three framesSoftening iron to engrave itEtching with aquafortis on silver
and copperStampingWhite enamel, making it tender
with calcined black river
pebbles
Molding very thin like bimbalotiers do
They mold in paper &
carton, for neither earth, sand, nor
metal would mold as neatly & would not receive. Or else they
engrave in stone from Istre the
principal side, & the reverse is of paper or
carton.
Reducing a round figure to a hollow form
You need to first mold it with some plaster, as said
before, & in the plaster cast in wax, from which will
come out a relief that you will repair very neatly, and
bmodel it as you fancy. And then you will model
this relief of wax again in plaster, or better yet, with
your wetted sand # like for noyau, & in the
latter, cast in some lead, & from this you will have a very
neat relief, & if it is not, repair on the cement or
otherwise, & take heed that it is always of good release. And
this one will always serve you well for making as many hollow forms as you
please, in this way. Place half of your figure of
lead, oiled & wetted with eau-de-vie according
to the above, in the clay slab, then mold this half with
some white plaster. Having set nextand having
well smoothed & flattened the plaster, take your
black wax mixed with sulfur, as is said, because it leaves
nothing in the mold & melts quicker. Wet it in warm
urine, & once softened enough, make an imprint with it
on the half of the lead figure, and it you will have a
very neat hollow form. Shape next the hollow wax form in a square shape, as
you please, with sufficient thickness & smooth it well on all sides,
& thus next, mold this hollowed wax,
imprinted on one part & flat & smooth on the other, in the same
fashion that you mold flat medals of wax or othermetalen noyau. And the molden noyau
will render in silver or such metal as pleases you
the m a similar figure to the wax, that is to
say flat & smooth on one side & hollow on the other. And having
cleaned & put this hollow form to be whitened, if it is silver,
you will be able to mix there some works of sugar,#
having made a hole in your clay slab & having
en packed in it half of the figure of wax,
a little oiled, to pull it out better.Transparent wax is not good, but rather the one which has body,
to make an imprint well.
As you have molded with plaster & wax one half, you
can mold the other the same.
perfume & suchlike. But take heed that it is
necessary that the black wax with which you mold be
hard, in order that, quickly & du more drily,
it retracts, in order to see if it is well imprinted. It is rendered
harder by adding into the already melted one more melted sulfur
& a little rosin.
Currency medals
One makes the relief puncheons of untempered steel,
then one tempers them, & with these one
strikes on matrices, not reddened in fire, as some think, but
on steeled iron, reheated & softened, which one quenches afterward.
Casting
Do not cast in one go, for in doing so, the metal is
regurgitated &in, & the
metal gets cold before it goes down. But cast bit by bit &
taking your time.
ClampsWhen you put them back the second time, make sure that the
mold does not shift.
MoldsThose of noyau, in being reheated, want to be set on
charcoals a little spent, without the air touching
them, like the frame molds want to be recu
dried in the open & uncovered.
Thick works of tinThey do not want to be cast in lead or red tin like
thin & delicate things. It is enough if it is f
well melted & hot. Thin things want to be quite hot & of red
tin.
Cleaning closed moldsOne needs to let them cool rather than blow inside to clean them,
for when hot, they retain the ash. When cold, they are cleaned better. Take a thin wire of latten or a delicate straw to clean the tail completely, for this is what makes the gate. Blow into it & suck, drawing it to you. Before molding,
thicken the tail with wax, then cut it,
& join & solder a tail of latten wire with
solder. The lumps on a flower are a small matter, for this can
be removed with the chaple, but let the leaves come
out well, then the paint covers everything.
Original first page (1578–1579)In the year fifteen hundred
seventy-eight, the second of July, the heirs of
thee late Sieur
Ouvryer received two hundred and five
écus the rent of Saint-Frajou, amounting
to twelve hundred and thirty livres.They have also received, as part of the revenue of the year fifteen
hundred seventy nine, twothree hundred forty three and one third écussur qu.And for the first year, eighty livres and fifteen remain to them
, and for the second settlement, they have not yet received anything.
Against plagueTake, against pestilential fever or poison or plague, an
écu’s weight of your opiate soaked in
scabious or bugloss water
or thoroughly tempered wine, if one is afflicted. After taking
it, one needs to make oneself sweat.Othonis episcopi Frisigensis Ab
orbe condito
For preservingAcetum paratum ex rutabaccis juniperi
simul tusis. Eo aceto extinguantur lateres igniti et vapor excipiatur
ore & naribus.
This is to preserve oneself when one goes into infected air: a
garment can be thus perfumed & removing its infection,
the room, house, &c. If you find yourself in a place where
you do not have this preparation, carry rue &
seedspestled together, then, according to
your need, boil them in vinegar and use as above.Abbatis Urspergensis
ChroniconHyeronimus Mercurialis,
Variarum
List of booksRerum Scoticarum Historia,Georgio
Bucanano authoreRembertus Dodonaeus, Mechliniensismedicus, De stirpium
historiaDes Ormes,De l’invention de bien bastir, and other
worksTilesius, De coloribus,
VascosanMarmodaeus,go De lapillis
praetiosisAlbertus Magnus de mineralibus