{ "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki-tai-poutini/kirikirikatata-mt-cook-range/aoraki-mt-cook": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki-tai-poutini/kirikirikatata-mt-cook-range/aoraki-mt-cook", "name": "Aoraki Mt Cook", "altitude": "3724m", "access": null, "description": "Among the celestial visitors were four sons of Raki who were named Ao-raki , Raki-roa , Raki-rua, and Raraki-roa . They came down in a canoe which was known as Te Waka o Aoraki. They decided to return to their celestial home, but the karakia which should have lifted the waka back to the heavens failed and the canoe fell back into the sea and turned over onto its side. The waka listed and settled with the west side much higher out of the water that the east. Aoraki and his brothers clambered on to the high side and were turned to stone. They are still there today. Aoraki is the highest peak and his brothers are the next highest peaks near him \u2013 Rakiroa (Mount Dampier), Rakirua (Mount Teichelmann), Rarakiroa (Mount Tasman).\nTo Ng\u0101i Tahu, Aoraki represents the most sacred of ancestors, from whom Ng\u0101i Tahu descend and who provide the iwi with its sense of communal identity, solidarity and purpose. The ancestor embodied in the mountain remains the physical manifestation of Aoraki, the link between the supernatural and the natural world.\nThe tapu associated with Aoraki is significant to the tribal value, and is the source of the power over life and death which the mountain possesses. Standing on the very top the the mountain denigrates it's tapu status, and climbers are encouraged to stay off the true summit.\nAoraki / Mount Cook is the highest mountain in New Zealand. Its height, as of 2014, is listed as 3,724 metres (12,218 feet). It sits in the Southern Alps, the mountain range that runs the length of the South Island. Aoraki / Mount Cook consists of three summits: from south to north, the Low Peak (3,593 m or 11,788 ft), the Middle Peak (3,717 m or 12,195 ft) and the High Peak. The summits lie slightly south and east of the main divide of the Southern Alps / K\u0101 Tiritiri o te Moana, with the Tasman Glacier to the east and the Hooker Glacier to the southwest.\nDespite its modest height relative to other mountains internationally, to approach Aoraki from 700 metres above sea level is involves technically challenging climbing with a high level of glaciation. Its level of difficulty is often underestimated and can change dramatically depending on weather, snow and ice conditions. The climb crosses large crevasses, and involves risks of ice and rock falls, avalanches and rapidly changing weather conditions. The approach is often avoided by helicopter due to difficult travel and route-finding. Aoraki has claimed the lives of 70+ climbers since the first ascent in 1894 by New Zealanders Tom Fyfe, Jack Clarke and George Graham. The climbing season traditionally runs from November to February, and hardly a season goes by without at least one fatality.\nThe Department of Conservation Te Papa Atawhai (DOC) runs the Aoraki Mount Cook Alpine Rescue Team (AMCART) and the Visitor Centre at Aoraki Mount Cook Village. DOC maintains an intentions system which national park users are encouraged to use, to aid in search and rescue. Intentions can either be filled out at the Vistors Centre in the foyer, or sent via e-mail to mtcookvc@doc.govt.nz\nMountain conditions can be found by calling the Visitor Centre, Alpine Guides Ltd, or on various conditions pages spread throughout social media. The Mountain Safety Council runs a website with public avalanche forecasting and public observations.", "latlng": [ "-43.5955671", "170.14219572" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki/kirikirikatata-mt-cook-range/aoraki-mt-cook/aoraki-mount-cook-grand-traverse", "name": "Aoraki Mount Cook Grand Traverse", "grade": "3+,V", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": "3+", "commitment": "V", "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "A \u2018GT\u2019 involves traversing Low, Middle and High Peaks (or vice versa) of Aoraki/Mt Cook. The section from Low Peak to Porter Col involves some rock, whereas the rest of the traverse is ice (and this can be hard, especially in winter). The ridge line from Low to High Peak is New Zealand\u2019s highest and most exposed mile providing the most spectacular and famous traverse in the Southern Alps. In its day it was regarded as one of the most impressive achievements in world mountaineering." } ], "quality": 1, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Freda Du Faur, Peter Graham, Darby Thomson, January 1913" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki/kirikirikatata-mt-cook-range/aoraki-mt-cook/zurbriggen-ridge", "name": "Zurbriggen Ridge", "grade": "3+,IV", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": "3+", "commitment": "IV", "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "A classic Mt Cook climb. Ascend snow slopes on the edge of the East Face to gain the ridge 400m up, then up a rock step of poor rock (in certain conditions this can be sidled on the East Face). Above here follow snow slopes and the occasional rock pitch to gain the Summit Rocks where the standard Linda Glacier route is joined. Then ascend the north-east ar\u00eate (commonly referred to as the \u2018ice cap\u2019) to the summit. The first three pitches of this route are the steepest, after which it relents a little." } ], "quality": 1, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Mattias Zurbriggen (with John Adamson to 3200m), March 1895." }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki/kirikirikatata-mt-cook-range/aoraki-mt-cook/bowie-couloir", "name": "Bowie Couloir", "grade": "3+,IV", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": "3+", "commitment": "IV", "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": null } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": "Climb the prominent gully between the Bowie and Zurbriggen Ridges, following the right variation couloir at the top to meet Zurbriggen Ridge, then continue to the summit. Involves steep gully climbing.", "ascent": "J Barry, D Nicholls, November 1969" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki/kirikirikatata-mt-cook-range/aoraki-mt-cook/bowie-ridge", "name": "Bowie Ridge", "grade": "13,4,V", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "Climbed from its toe in the Linda Glacier, or from the nerve below the Bowie Couloir. Not quite as difficult as the Upper Buttress." }, { "alpine": "4", "commitment": "V", "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": "13", "description": "Can be approached from either the upper Linda Glacier or from a subsidiary gully from Bowie Couloir. The upper buttress comprises good rock. Traverse a ridge with gendarmes to join Zurbriggen Ridge." } ], "quality": 1, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": "The full buttress is recommended as a route to the summit.", "ascent": "(Upper Buttress) Dick Irwin, Hamish MacInnes, Peter Robinson, February 1956" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki/kirikirikatata-mt-cook-range/aoraki-mt-cook/bowie-face", "name": "Bowie Face", "grade": "18,5+,IV", "topo_ref": null, "image": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/routes/Bowie%20Face_0.jpg?itok=LaMc6h4g", "images": [ { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/routes/Bowie%20Face_0.jpg?itok=LaMc6h4g", "height": "244", "width": "325" } ], "length": "500m", "pitches": [ { "alpine": "5+", "commitment": "IV", "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": "500m", "bolts": null, "trad": true, "ewbank": "18", "description": "The Bowie Face is the relatively neglected steep rock face on the right side of the Upper Bowie Buttress. A route of 10 pitches ascends the left/ centre of the face.The route starts from the upper Linda Glacier and then follows a narrow chimney , which is often iced up, (crux 18). The rock is excellent with more potential further R." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": true, "description": null, "ascent": "Kevin Boekholt, Nick Cradock, Dec 1984" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki/kirikirikatata-mt-cook-range/aoraki-mt-cook/linda-glacier", "name": "Linda Glacier", "grade": "3,IV", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": "3", "commitment": "IV", "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "While this is the easiest and most climbed route on Aoraki/Mount Cook, it is also one of the most dangerous, being menaced by icecliffs. The lower glacier is often heavily crevassed and there is considerable danger from ice avalanches off the right (Divide) slopes. At the head of the glacier under the Gunbarrel (the prominent and active icecliffs of the Upper Linda), traverse left very quickly across the Linda Shelf to join Zurbriggen Ridge below the Summit Rocks (these provide access to the summit, which is over 400m above). A 150m gully that runs directly from the Linda Shelf to the start of the Summit Rocks is a popular alternative to traversing to the Zurbriggen junction. Climb the rocks - there is usually a series of ice gullies running up through the rocks which make for easier climbing. Late in the season parties may need to venture further toward the East Face. Once above the Summit Rocks follow the north-east ice cap to the summit. The easiest way to get onto the summit ridge is to traverse to the west, overlooking the North Ridge and Sheila Face, and climb a short step to follow a sustrugi filled ramp that leads to the top. Due to the 1991 avalanche the very top is probably not a smart place to stand and climbers are asked to respect the wishes of Ngai Tahu by not standing on the very top. The Linda Glacier is the most common descent route from Aoraki/Mount Cook. Most parties use two abseils (100m) when descending the Summit Rocks. As a result there can be a \u2018Christmas tree\u2019 of abandoned slings and other assorted anchors in the rock and ice. Check these thoroughly before using them for abseiling. There have been numerous falls on this part of the route. As a general rule, ascents of the \u2018Linda\u2019 take anywhere from 15-18hrs or more depending on conditions and the speed of the party. It\u2019s a big day out in any language. To make sure it\u2019s one to remember: get fit, plan, prepare and practice. If there are many parties intending to do the Linda (or Zurbriggen) - try to avoid a Summit Rocks bottleneck \u2013 and don\u2019t forget your camera. \r\nA flat section on the Bowie Ridge above Teichelmann\u2019s Corner, accessible from the Linda Glacier, provides a relatively safe bivvy spot. There is also a schrund, uphill of the Linda Shelf, which has been used for shelter." } ], "quality": 1, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Hugh Chambers, Jack Clarke, Jim Murphy, Hugh Wright, February 1912." }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki/kirikirikatata-mt-cook-range/aoraki-mt-cook/gunbarrels", "name": "Gunbarrels", "grade": "4,V", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": "4", "commitment": "V", "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": null } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": "The left side of the Gunbarrels has been used as a \u2018short cut\u2019 to the summit from the upper Linda by various parties. Andrew Lindblade and Athol Whimp descended the right side in winter 1997. The feasibility of these routes is highly dependent on the condition of the upper ice cliffs.", "ascent": "Harry Ayres, Bruce Banfield, Tom Duffy, Jack Ede, Ernie Gilmore, Peg McMahon, Norm Southern, December 1941" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki/kirikirikatata-mt-cook-range/aoraki-mt-cook/north-ridge", "name": "North Ridge", "grade": "4+,V", "topo_ref": "NR", "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": "4+", "commitment": "V", "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": true, "ewbank": null, "description": "From the upper Sheila Glacier head up the rib to the left of Fyfe\u2019s Gut - the narrow couloir directly below the saddle. It is possible to climb Fyfe\u2019s Gut but watch for dangerous stonefall. The route comes out above Green Saddle. \r\nThen up three prominent steps on the North ridge, the last and more difficult \u2018Beare Step\u2019 being turned via either a steep hand traverse or an abseil into a couloir on the Sheila Face. It is also possible to bypass the 'Beare direct' by a rock variation on the face to the left at about Grade 14 (Whimp/Tweedie). A classic route used for the first ascent of Aoraki/Mt Cook. It was descended by at least four parties on early ascents but this is not recommended.\r\nGreen Saddle can also be accessed from the Grand Plateau: Ascend to Green Saddle from the Linda Glacier (schrunds can be problem late in the season). \r\nFirst ascended from the Linda Glacier by Harry Ayres, Oscar Coberger, Dec 1951." } ], "quality": 2, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": true, "description": null, "ascent": "Jack Clarke, Tom Fyfe, George Graham, 25 December 1894" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki/kirikirikatata-mt-cook-range/aoraki-mt-cook/earle-ridge", "name": "Earle Ridge", "grade": "3+,V", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": "900m", "pitches": [ { "alpine": "3+", "commitment": "V", "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": "900m", "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": null } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": "Gain the ridge at Earle\u2019s Gap and then follow the broad ridge on mostly poor rock. At about 3200m the ridge flattens out before meeting the final headwall. Depending on how iced the rocks are, either climb up steep ice gullies directly above or traverse left and use the Sheila Face exits, or even further left to the top of the North Ridge.", "ascent": "Jack Clarke, Laurence Earle, Alex Graham, Peter Graham, March 1909" } ], "places": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki/mt-cook-range/aoraki-mt-cook/east-face", "name": "East Face", "altitude": null, "access": null, "description": "Many variations exist on this 1600m high face. The routes are long sustained ice climbs and can involve high objective danger from rockfall. In 1991 a major rock avalanche swept down the face below High Peak, lowering its height by 10m. The debris jetted across the Plateau, spewed down the Hochstetter Icefall, across the Tasman Glacier and slightly up the moraine wall on the other side of the Tasman Valley.", "latlng": null, "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki/mt-cook-range/aoraki-mt-cook/east-face/great-gully", "name": "Great Gully", "grade": "5", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "5", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "A prominent route parallel to the East Ridge. A right side variant of the Atkinson/Hall line exists, finishing on Middle Peak. \r\nSveticic Slavko Miroslav, Mar 1990." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Bill Atkinson, Rob Hall, Sep 1979." }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki/mt-cook-range/aoraki-mt-cook/east-face/rumblestiltzskin", "name": "Rumblestiltzskin", "grade": "VI,6,WI4,M5", "topo_ref": null, "image": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/route/Rumblestiltzken_0.jpg?itok=ucwOmQGj", "images": [ { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/route/Rumblestiltzken_0.jpg?itok=ucwOmQGj", "height": "217", "width": "325" }, { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/route/400D-6176.jpg?itok=K-a3Qzta", "height": "325", "width": "313" } ], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": "VI", "mtcook": "6", "aid": null, "ice": "WI4", "mixed": "M5", "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "Follows a prominent gully up through the rock buttress in a direct fall line from Middle Peak. Approach via the snow field under the Atkinson/Hall route, and then traverse right beneath the rock buttress. The gully involves steep climbing. At the top of the gully there's a natural exit (hidden from view) out to a short snow slope. Follow it's left edge to a final rock wall just right of the Middle Peak apex (where this climb temporarily joined Boogie til you Puke), but then ice formations should lead up through the rock - traversing you out leftwards to finish on the rib immediately left of Middle Peak. If there is no ice use the rock (grade 17) finish of the aforementioned route or come up with another solution.\r\nThe first ascent took 3 winter bivvys." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Bill McLeod, Peter Dickson, Jul 1991." }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki/mt-cook-range/aoraki-mt-cook/east-face/boogie-til-you-puke", "name": "Boogie 'Til You Puke", "grade": "17,6", "topo_ref": null, "image": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/route/11334049_1604328349821360_7650464339276590427_o.jpg?itok=Y5BmF42P", "images": [ { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/route/11334049_1604328349821360_7650464339276590427_o.jpg?itok=Y5BmF42P", "height": "244", "width": "325" } ], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "6", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": "17", "description": "Ascend mixed ground of icefields and rock ribs between the large gully on the left of the face and the Jones Route. The rock crux is\r\nat the top." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Murray Ball, Nick Cradock, Neal Whiston, Nov 1983." }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki/mt-cook-range/aoraki-mt-cook/east-face/jones-route", "name": "Jones Route", "grade": "4+", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "4+", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "From the shelf head 900m up the left edge of the large snowface on the right of the face. Then out on a ramp leading left and up, joining the summit ridge just north of the Middle Peak. A variation heads straight up avoiding the ramp." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Murray Jones, Dec 1973." }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki/mt-cook-range/aoraki-mt-cook/east-face/high-peak-route", "name": "High Peak Route", "grade": null, "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "This route, and variations of it, were obliterated by the 1991 rock avalanche. (originally ascended by Don Cowie, Lyn Crawford, Pete Farrell, Vic Walsh, Nov 1961." } ], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki/kirikirikatata-mt-cook-range/aoraki-mt-cook/endeavour-buttress", "name": "Endeavour Buttress", "altitude": null, "access": null, "description": "Three routes climb good quality rock from the bottom left edge of the Bowie Couloir to the crest of the Zurbriggen Ridge. There are two major full-height aretes separated by a large corner. At the base of the large corner system there is a short arete with a sheltered cave underneath.", "latlng": null, "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki/kirikirikatata-mt-cook-range/aoraki-mt-cook/endeavour-buttress/endeavour", "name": "Endeavour", "grade": "18,6,IV", "topo_ref": "E", "image": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/route/Endeavor-Resolution-Monks.png?itok=NgK0TH79", "images": [ { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/route/Endeavor-Resolution-Monks.png?itok=NgK0TH79", "height": "226", "width": "325" }, { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/route/resolution%20endeavour%20topo.jpg?itok=DB9EO8jv", "height": "325", "width": "246" } ], "length": "460m", "pitches": [ { "alpine": "6", "commitment": "IV", "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": "460m", "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": "18", "description": null } ], "quality": 2, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": true, "description": "The left-most of the two full-height aretes. Gain the arete left of the cave and follow it, working around some hanging corners to bypass an overhang at half height. From a belay below the large roof near the top, follow good cracks left of the crest in a spectacular position. Sustained climbing on excellent rock.", "ascent": "Stuart Holloway, Richard Bassett-Smith, December 2012" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki/kirikirikatata-mt-cook-range/aoraki-mt-cook/endeavour-buttress/resolution", "name": "Resolution", "grade": "19,6,IV", "topo_ref": "R", "image": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/route/r1a_0.jpg?itok=5OUrF4Ji", "images": [ { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/route/r1a_0.jpg?itok=5OUrF4Ji", "height": "325", "width": "244" }, { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/route/resolution%20topo.jpg?itok=Nhof3YTF", "height": "325", "width": "232" }, { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/route/Endeavor-Resolution-Monks_0.png?itok=dEH_O_yV", "height": "226", "width": "325" } ], "length": "480m", "pitches": [ { "alpine": "6", "commitment": "IV", "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": "30m", "bolts": null, "trad": true, "ewbank": "14", "description": "Up hanging corner to small alcove of dark rock." }, { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": "30m", "bolts": null, "trad": true, "ewbank": "15", "description": "Work up red wall and arete to climb hanging corner on right to big ledge. (Pitches 1 and 2 could be combined.)" }, { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": "60m", "bolts": null, "trad": true, "ewbank": "14", "description": "Climb right hand corner then continue up ledges and walls left of the main corner" }, { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": "50m", "bolts": null, "trad": true, "ewbank": "16", "description": "Slabs and walls of pink rock left of the corner. Belay near the arete below a steep wall." }, { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": "30m", "bolts": null, "trad": true, "ewbank": "18", "description": "Traverse up and right towards corner. Climb overhang into groove left of main corner (which is blocked by loose flakes)." }, { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": "60m", "bolts": null, "trad": true, "ewbank": "18", "description": "Up easy ground then left below roof in main corner into S ubsidiary corner (snow). Weave up pink wall (~20m) with cracks to cross arete and make slopey traverse back to main corner. Belay off hand and fist size cams." }, { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": "90m", "bolts": null, "trad": true, "ewbank": "12", "description": "Up nice corner, then long chimney; finally scramble to belay below steepening in corner. (There are potential belays in this pitch but they are not very sheltered.)" }, { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": "30m", "bolts": null, "trad": true, "ewbank": "16", "description": "Climb corner (or wall on right\u2014corner may be wet) to awkward belay below next overhang. Piton high on left. (This belay is dry but the ropes will get wet\u2014best to combine pitches 8 and 9 to get past wet section.)" }, { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": "30m", "bolts": null, "trad": true, "ewbank": "17", "description": "The Waterfall pitch\u2014climb overhang using chockstones and continue up corner and right wall to a stance on the left." }, { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": "30m", "bolts": null, "trad": true, "ewbank": "13", "description": "Up corner to gain obvious diagonal weakness heading up across right wall. Belay on flake/pedestal below smooth, steep wall with cracks heading diagonally up left and right. (Pitches 10 and 11 could be combined.)" }, { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": "40m", "bolts": null, "trad": true, "ewbank": "19", "description": "Tricky moves up right leading crack and the wall beyond to crest. Continue up easy arete of buttress to snow." } ], "quality": 2, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": true, "description": "Resolution climbs the big corner running all the way up the buttress from the base of the Bowie Couloir to the crest of Zurbriggen\u2019s Ridge. This corner line would be a spectacularly good mixed route and the whole buttress offers excellent scope for further climbing.\nFrom the cave, gain the hanging corner and short arete to reach the base of the main corner.\nGear: Approx. 7 cams finger to fist, a full set of nuts, 1KB & 1LA (optional), draws, full alpine kit to continue up mountain or double ropes and extensive tat to rappel buttress.", "ascent": "Lachie Curry, Stuart Holloway, 18-19 January 2010" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki/kirikirikatata-mt-cook-range/aoraki-mt-cook/endeavour-buttress/pink-dream", "name": "Pink Dream", "grade": "19,6+,IV", "topo_ref": "PD", "image": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/route/Endeavour-Resolution-PD.png?itok=EZyh865O", "images": [ { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/route/Endeavour-Resolution-PD.png?itok=EZyh865O", "height": "226", "width": "325" } ], "length": "500m", "pitches": [ { "alpine": "6+", "commitment": "IV", "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": "500m", "bolts": null, "trad": true, "ewbank": "19", "description": "Takes the arete R of Resolution on excellent rock." } ], "quality": 2, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": true, "description": "Gain the major, right arete and generally follow it to the crest. Sustained.", "ascent": "Steve Monks, Nicki Sunderland, 1995" } ], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki/kirikirikatata-mt-cook-range/aoraki-mt-cook/sheila-face", "name": "Sheila Face", "altitude": null, "access": "Hooker Glacier: http://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki/hooker-glacier", "description": "This grand piece of mountainside faces north-west and hence can often be covered in rime ice, making it a more serious undertaking than if the rock is clean. You can expect to be bombarded by falling ice in this case.", "latlng": null, "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki/kirikirikatata-mt-cook-range/aoraki-mt-cook/sheila-face/ministry-silly-walks", "name": "Ministry of Silly Walks", "grade": "5,VI,WI4,M4", "topo_ref": null, "image": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/route/Shelia%20Face%20Ministry%20of%20silly%20walks.jpg?itok=lkw5BDZV", "images": [ { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/route/Shelia%20Face%20Ministry%20of%20silly%20walks.jpg?itok=lkw5BDZV", "height": "244", "width": "325" } ], "length": "650m", "pitches": [ { "alpine": "5", "commitment": "VI", "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": "WI4", "mixed": "M4", "length": "650m", "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": null } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": "Continue up Fyfe\u2019s Gut past the Left Buttress (a further 100m from the start of Pilgrim). before breaking up right following a narrow smear of ice. This leads to the crux of the route: a short section of steep climbing, before the ground opens up again. Another section of tiered ice leads to the rightward trending ramp, which joins the Left Buttress at approx 3400m to finish as for that route.", "ascent": "Rose Pearson, Sam Waetford, 9 September 2018" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki/kirikirikatata-mt-cook-range/aoraki-mt-cook/sheila-face/left-buttress", "name": "Left Buttress", "grade": "14,4+,VI,5", "topo_ref": "3.69", "image": null, "images": [], "length": "750m", "pitches": [ { "alpine": "4+", "commitment": "VI", "mtcook": "5", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": "750m", "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": "14", "description": null } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": "0", "natural_pro": false, "description": "From the foot of Fyfe\u2019s Gut ascend the rib to the left of a wide gully via a corner (crux 14). Trend left (towards Fyfe\u2019s Gut) and then follow the crest of the buttress until reaching a leftward traverse across a steep wall. Then follow red slabs and possible ice leads to join the North Ridge 150m from the summit.", "ascent": "Bill Denz, Peter Gough, August 1973" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki/kirikirikatata-mt-cook-range/aoraki-mt-cook/sheila-face/pilgrim", "name": "Pilgrim", "grade": "7,VI,WI5,M6", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": "750m", "pitches": [ { "alpine": "7", "commitment": "VI", "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": "WI5", "mixed": "M6", "length": "750m", "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": null } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": "The gully between the Left and Central Buttresses.", "ascent": "Caleb Jennings, Kim Ladijes, 6 September 2018" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki/kirikirikatata-mt-cook-range/aoraki-mt-cook/sheila-face/central-buttress", "name": "Central Buttress", "grade": "12,4,VI,5-", "topo_ref": "3.70", "image": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/route/Sheila.jpg?itok=OIFMvMFY", "images": [ { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/route/Sheila.jpg?itok=OIFMvMFY", "height": "325", "width": "217" } ], "length": "750m", "pitches": [ { "alpine": "4", "commitment": "VI", "mtcook": "5-", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": "750m", "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": "12", "description": null } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": "0", "natural_pro": false, "description": "The route used for the first ascent of the Sheila Face is still the standard route. The route begins close to the base of Fyfe\u2019s Gut, on the right of a wide gully. Two grade 12 pitches take you onto the buttress which is followed on relatively easy, occasionally loose rock. The rib is wide and there are a number of alternatives. 200m below the summit, the rib meets a 50m flat ridge. Above here follow either the buttress of good rock, or if iced, move left into a couloir to reach the summit. Some quite quick ascents were recorded at different times in the 1980s by John Dale and Calum Hudson of around 3 hours.", "ascent": "Austin Brookes, Ron Dickie, Ralph Miller, January 1967" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki/kirikirikatata-mt-cook-range/aoraki-mt-cook/sheila-face/hi-viz", "name": "Hi Viz", "grade": "4,VI", "topo_ref": "3.71", "image": null, "images": [], "length": "750m", "pitches": [ { "alpine": "4", "commitment": "VI", "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": "750m", "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": null } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": "0", "natural_pro": false, "description": "A gully line between the Central Buttress and the Grand Central Pillar. Involved a bivy at the base of the headwall.", "ascent": "Pete Cammell, Charlie Hornsby, July 1988" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki/kirikirikatata-mt-cook-range/aoraki-mt-cook/sheila-face/grand-central-pillar", "name": "Grand Central Pillar", "grade": "14,5,VI", "topo_ref": "3.72", "image": null, "images": [], "length": "800m", "pitches": [ { "alpine": "5", "commitment": "VI", "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": "800m", "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": "14", "description": null } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": "0", "natural_pro": false, "description": "This route was formerly regarded as a variation on the Central Buttress, but it is independent for a significant height. Some grade 14 and harder rock pitches have been reported. There are several options at the start, all of a similar difficulty. Joins the Central Buttress about halfway to the summit.", "ascent": "John Allen, Tobin Sorenson, August 1979" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki/kirikirikatata-mt-cook-range/aoraki-mt-cook/sheila-face/ardis-gully", "name": "Ardi\u2019s Gully", "grade": "4,VI,5", "topo_ref": "3.73", "image": null, "images": [], "length": "800m", "pitches": [ { "alpine": "4", "commitment": "VI", "mtcook": "5", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": "800m", "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": null } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": "0", "natural_pro": false, "description": "The major gully between the Grand Central Pillar and Right Buttress/Earle Ridge. Usually forms with good ice in winter.", "ascent": "Adrian Riechlin, June 1994" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki/kirikirikatata-mt-cook-range/aoraki-mt-cook/sheila-face/right-buttress", "name": "Right Buttress", "grade": "16,5,V,5", "topo_ref": "3.74", "image": null, "images": [], "length": "800m", "pitches": [ { "alpine": "5", "commitment": "V", "mtcook": "5", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": "800m", "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": "16", "description": "Follow the left crest of the buttress with a final pitch of grade 16, before\r\njoining Earle\u2019s Route. The first ascent tended out on the face on the right, with easier climbing." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": "0", "natural_pro": false, "description": "There are two ways to climb this buttress: either (i) follow the defined crest on the left, or (ii) a narrow face on the right. The crest of the buttress is more difficult, with a final crux pitch of grade 16 rock. The routes converge about 100m before joining Earle Ridge.", "ascent": "(ii) Hugh Logan, David Pluth, January 1974" } ], "places": [], "image": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/image/IMG_20201031_015637.jpg?itok=3BvuHzcs", "images": [ { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/image/IMG_20201031_015637.jpg?itok=3BvuHzcs", "height": "244", "width": "325" } ] }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki/kirikirikatata-mt-cook-range/aoraki-mt-cook/earle%E2%80%99s-gap", "name": "Earle\u2019s Gap", "altitude": "2850m", "access": null, "description": "Earle\u2019s Gap is the level section at about 2850m Earle Ridge. You\u2019ll need to get to Earle Gap (or at least pretty close) in order to access the Empress Shelf.", "latlng": null, "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki/kirikirikatata-mt-cook-range/aoraki-mt-cook/earle%E2%80%99s-gap/direct", "name": "Direct", "grade": "3+,II", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": "3+", "commitment": "II", "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": null } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": "Climb directly from the Sheila Glacier, depending on the season can involve anything from one straightforward pitch of snow and rock to three steep pitches of rock.", "ascent": "Jack Clarke, Laurence Earle, Alec Graham, PeterGraham, March 1909" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki/kirikirikatata-mt-cook-range/aoraki-mt-cook/earle%E2%80%99s-gap/empress-icefall", "name": "Empress Icefall", "grade": "3,III", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": "3", "commitment": "III", "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": null } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": "Navigate the icefall draining the true right edge of the Empress Shelf. This can involve very complicated route finding through crevasses and seracs.", "ascent": null }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki/kirikirikatata-mt-cook-range/aoraki-mt-cook/earle%E2%80%99s-gap/lower-earle-ridge", "name": "Lower Earle Ridge", "grade": "3,III", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": "3", "commitment": "III", "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": null } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": "Follow the lower ridge from Empress Hut. This starts with a couple of steep pitches then relents, although near Earle\u2019s Gap it narrows. This would be a time consuming option but, in some cases, may be the only feasible route.", "ascent": null }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki/kirikirikatata-mt-cook-range/aoraki-mt-cook/earle%E2%80%99s-gap/don%E2%80%99t-call-me-dude", "name": "Don\u2019t Call Me Dude", "grade": "17,4", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": "350m", "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "4", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": "350m", "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": "17", "description": "Crest of the buttress between the upper and lower Empress Shelves. Excellent rock with no objective danger. 350m, crux 17. Descend via Earle\u2019s Gap or glacier." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Peter Dickson, February 1992" } ], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki/kirikirikatata-mt-cook-range/aoraki-mt-cook/hooker-face", "name": "Hooker Face", "altitude": null, "access": "The Empress Shelf can be accessed either via Earle\u2019s Gap or by traversing from the top of the North West Couloir on the Low Peak. The latter is not a direct access route But usually stays in condition longer than the Earle\u2019s Gap options.", "description": "The steep lower sections of the routes on this face have become longer than when they were first climbed due to thinning of the Empress Shelf.", "latlng": null, "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki/kirikirikatata-mt-cook-range/aoraki-mt-cook/hooker-face/perry-street", "name": "Perry Street", "grade": "4+,V", "topo_ref": "3.78", "image": null, "images": [], "length": "0m", "pitches": [ { "alpine": "4+", "commitment": "V", "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": null } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": "0", "natural_pro": false, "description": "Ascend the major gully to the right of Earle Ridge then take your pick of exit gullies or spurs to reach the summit ridge near the High Peak.", "ascent": "Mike Perry, Trev Streat, Nov 1979" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki/kirikirikatata-mt-cook-range/aoraki-mt-cook/hooker-face/summer-69", "name": "Summer of \u201869", "grade": "4+,V", "topo_ref": "3.79", "image": null, "images": [], "length": "0m", "pitches": [ { "alpine": "4+", "commitment": "V", "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": null } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": "0", "natural_pro": false, "description": "The two rock buttresses to the right of Perry Street were climbed on the same day.", "ascent": "R Coombs, K Henshall, and Brian Dawkins, S Thompson, December 1969" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki/kirikirikatata-mt-cook-range/aoraki-mt-cook/hooker-face/shield", "name": "The Shield", "grade": "4+,VI", "topo_ref": "3.80", "image": null, "images": [], "length": "0m", "pitches": [ { "alpine": "4+", "commitment": "VI", "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": null } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": "0", "natural_pro": false, "description": "Up a short steep gully onto a sustained iceshield, often of hard ice, which leads to the summit ridge. As at 2018 this route appeared particularly threatened by ice cliffs. First ascent party unknown.", "ascent": null }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki/kirikirikatata-mt-cook-range/aoraki-mt-cook/hooker-face/original-line", "name": "Original Line", "grade": "4+,V", "topo_ref": "3.81", "image": null, "images": [], "length": "0m", "pitches": [ { "alpine": "4+", "commitment": "V", "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": null } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": "0", "natural_pro": false, "description": "Climb a steep couloir and then either up good rock on the ribs to left or right or up the broad gully between the ribs. The first ascent used the right rib.", "ascent": "Pat Barcham, David Herron, Graham McCallum, Richard Tornquist, December 1956" } ], "places": [], "image": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/wide/public/2023-10/ATP%20Book%20pg%20132%20HOOKER%20FACE.jpg?itok=dL5MFBfD", "images": [ { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/wide/public/2023-10/ATP%20Book%20pg%20132%20HOOKER%20FACE.jpg?itok=dL5MFBfD", "height": "1440", "width": "1090" } ] } ], "image": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/wide/public/image/Whack20Dangle%2CNov20photos%2520009.jpg?itok=kDumlaqz", "images": [ { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/wide/public/image/Whack20Dangle%2CNov20photos%2520009.jpg?itok=kDumlaqz", "height": "495", "width": "900" }, { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/wide/public/2024-01/Adobe%20Scan%2007_01_2024%20%282%29_1.jpg?itok=8McBub8Y", "height": "1591", "width": "1090" } ] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki/kirikirikatata-mt-cook-range/aoraki-mt-cook-middle-pk": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki/kirikirikatata-mt-cook-range/aoraki-mt-cook-middle-pk", "name": "Aoraki Mt Cook Middle Pk", "altitude": "3706m", "access": null, "description": "Note that the height of the Middle Peak used here is taken from the University of Otago 2014 survey. The peak hasn\u2019t undergone the same ice cap changes as the High Peak; the 11-metre discrepancy with the earlier height is mostly due to greater precision in the survey.", "latlng": [ "-43.60339174", "170.14440536" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki/kirikirikatata-mt-cook-range/aoraki-mt-cook-middle-pk/middle-peak-route", "name": "Middle Peak Route", "grade": "4+,VI", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": "4+", "commitment": "VI", "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": null } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": "Ascend a rock rib directly below the Middle Peak that leads to steep snowfields between the prominent icecliff under Porter Col and the icecliff on the Hooker Face.", "ascent": "Kevin Conaglen, Andy Harris, February 1983" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki/kirikirikatata-mt-cook-range/aoraki-mt-cook-middle-pk/porter-col-route", "name": "Porter Col Route", "grade": "3,IV", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": "3", "commitment": "IV", "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "From the Upper Empress Shelf, ascend snowslopes and gain a short steep gully to the right of a large icecliff which leads to the col between the Middle and Low Peaks. This is a regular descent route (but often requires abseils on the first steep section). There is usually a schrund just above the col beneath the Middle Peak which is suitable for bivouacs (\u2018Middle Peak Hotel\u2019, was the scene of Mark Inglis and Phil Doole\u2019s epic fortnight survival in 1982)." } ], "quality": 1, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Tom Fyfe, George Graham, December 1894" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki/kirikirikatata-mt-cook-range/aoraki-mt-cook-middle-pk/east-ridge", "name": "East Ridge", "grade": "3+,V", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": "3+", "commitment": "V", "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "A classic ice climb, perhaps the finest in New Zealand. The East Ridge joins Aoraki\u2019s summit ridge about 200m south of Middle Peak. The lower section of the ridge can be gained at a number of points. The conventional routes are: \r\ni) From Cinerama Col, avoid the first 200m via the Plateau side, then head up slopes to gain the ridge. Follow the ar\u00eate on up.\r\nii) Via the shelf below the East Face gain a snow ramp leading out left onto the ridge below a rock step before a prominent level section on the ridge (This section can be gained directly from the shelf). Beyond the level section, follow up the winding ar\u00eate that merges into the upper Caroline Face and finishes near the Middle Peak. Ice on the upper section of the route is often hard." } ], "quality": 1, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Dan Bryant, Lud Mahan, January 1938" } ], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki/kirikirikatata-mt-cook-range/aoraki-mt-cook-low-pk": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki/kirikirikatata-mt-cook-range/aoraki-mt-cook-low-pk", "name": "Aoraki Mt Cook Low Pk", "altitude": "3593m", "access": null, "description": "Approx 1.5 km south of the high peak", "latlng": [ "-43.60910951", "170.13942719" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki/kirikirikatata-mt-cook-range/aoraki-mt-cook-low-pk/north-west-couloir", "name": "North West Couloir", "grade": "3", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "3", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "This is a general term for a number of routes leading from the Lower Empress Shelf onto the West Ridge. The most regular routes are up either the narrow or the broad couloir in the NW Buttress, and then up a broad gully or the rocks further left to gain the West Ridge at about 3200m where it flattens out. A commonly used descent route \u2013 but beware\r\nof rockfall in the lower part of the couloir \u2013 scene of a number of fatalities." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Peter Graham, Freda Du Faur, Darby Thomson, January 1913 (as part of the first Grand Traverse);" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki/kirikirikatata-mt-cook-range/aoraki-mt-cook-low-pk/west-ridge", "name": "West Ridge", "grade": "3+,IV", "topo_ref": "3.85", "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": "3+", "commitment": "IV", "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "Commencing either at the foot of main West Ridge above Gardiner Hut, or\r\ngaining the ridge at certain points on the northern side, follow up on good rock. From Gardiner Hut the ridge is a long climb. The strata lead onto the South Face, so tend left until the ridge flattens at 3200m." } ], "quality": 1, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": "A fantastic, extended rock scramble, but a very long climb. Commence either at the foot of the main west ridge above Pudding Rock, or climb further left on snow to gain the ridge at certain points on the northern side, then proceed up on good rock. Accessing the ridge from the large snow \u2018tongue\u2019 feeding the southern end of the Empress Glacier probably provides the fastest route up Low Peak from the west, but many parties will prefer not to bypass the more interesting lower ridge. The strata leads onto the south face, so tend left until the ridge flattens at 3200m.", "ascent": "Peter Graham, Henrik Sillem, March 1906 (first ascent of the Low Peak);" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki/kirikirikatata-mt-cook-range/aoraki-mt-cook-low-pk/south-hillary-ridge", "name": "South (Hillary) Ridge", "grade": "4-", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "4-", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "Formerly known as the South Ridge, renamed in honour of Sir Ed (who was part of the first ascent party) in August 2011.\r\nFrom the Noeline Glacier ascend to Endeavour Col (beware of rockfall \u2013 an alternative approach lies over Nazomi). Then ascend both the first and second steps on the east side. The third, crux step can be climbed direct. The rock is generally very loose. Then follow a classic ar\u00eate to the summit." } ], "quality": 1, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Harry Ayres, Ruth Adams, Ed Hillary, Mick Sullivan, January 1948;" } ], "places": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki/mt-cook-range/aoraki-mt-cook/aoraki-mt-cook-low-pk/south-face", "name": "South Face", "altitude": null, "access": "From the old Gardiner Hut site via Noeline or Upper shelf", "description": "The South Face of Aoraki/ Mt Cook, generally starting on or above the Noeline Glacier.", "latlng": null, "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki/mt-cook-range/aoraki-mt-cook/aoraki-mt-cook-low-pk/south-face/creamer", "name": "The Creamer", "grade": "III,4+", "topo_ref": "3.86", "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": "III", "mtcook": "4+", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": null } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": "Climb a gully 200m left of Sweet Dreams to join the West Ridge.", "ascent": "Jo Kippax, John Smith, Jan 1990." }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki/mt-cook-range/aoraki-mt-cook/aoraki-mt-cook-low-pk/south-face/sweet-dreams", "name": "Sweet Dreams", "grade": "III,4+", "topo_ref": "3.87", "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": "III", "mtcook": "4+", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "Ascend two rope lengths up Wet Dreams and then head left up an ice smear\r\nto broken ground onto the West Ridge." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": "Ascend about 100m up Wet Dream and then head left up an ice smear to broken ground and onto the West Ridge.", "ascent": "Andy Harris, Mike Roberts, Pete Sinclair, Dec 1983." }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki/mt-cook-range/aoraki-mt-cook/aoraki-mt-cook-low-pk/south-face/wet-dream", "name": "Wet Dream", "grade": "IV,4+", "topo_ref": "3.88", "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": "IV", "mtcook": "4+", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "Start up a prominent gully 100m left of White Dream. The route follows a\r\nnarrow gully/ramp which angles back to connect up with White Dream. In places it narrows to one metre in width. Mostly 50 degree angle but a few sections are steeper. The next section on rock and water ice can be hard to follow. The final third of the route follows a prominent gully that joins White Dream near to where the NW Couloir joins. \r\nHarder variations have been done that traverse around very steep rock to reach the slope below the ice-cliff of White Dreams." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": "Start up a prominent gully 100m left of White Dream, which becomes quite narrow and angles back to connect up with White Dream at the edge of the upper icefields. Mostly 50 degrees but a few sections are steeper. The middle section on rock and water ice can be hard to follow. The final section before joining White Dream follows a prominent gully.", "ascent": "Kim Logan, Feb 1983." }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki/mt-cook-range/aoraki-mt-cook/aoraki-mt-cook-low-pk/south-face/white-dream", "name": "White Dream", "grade": "IV,4+", "topo_ref": "3.89", "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": "IV", "mtcook": "4+", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": null } ], "quality": 1, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": "A popular classic, for good reason. This route takes the easiest (most obvious) line up the ice and mixed ground on the left of the upper south face, passing just left of the left-most icecliff (crux). Continue climbing up the left side of the icefields to join the West Ridge.", "ascent": "Colin Brodie, Nigel Perry, Dec 1980." }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki/mt-cook-range/aoraki-mt-cook/aoraki-mt-cook-low-pk/south-face/slovenian-route", "name": "Slovenian Route", "grade": "V,4", "topo_ref": "3.90", "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": "V", "mtcook": "4", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "From the shelf, head directly up the slopes beneath the two major icecliffs on the left of the face, up through a short rock band and between the cliffs. Then move back left and directly up above the left icecliff either to the top of the West Ridge or tending right again to Low Peak." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": "From the shelf, head directly up the slopes beneath the two major icecliffs on the left of the face, up through a short rock band and between the cliffs. Then move left and up above the left icecliff, either to the top of the West Ridge or tending right again to Low Peak. The route has also been gained via an interesting ice runnel further left. ( Guy McKinnon, 2003)", "ascent": "Vanya Furlen, Jan 1994." }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki/mt-cook-range/aoraki-mt-cook/aoraki-mt-cook-low-pk/south-face/original-route", "name": "Original Route", "grade": "VI,3+", "topo_ref": "3.91", "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": "VI", "mtcook": "3+", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "From the prominent shelf gained from Gardiner Hut, climb up to the right across the face and then up beside the main rock rib on the right. Then gain the rib and ascend to the South Ridge below the final rock step." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": "A long diagonal route which cuts between the two steep zones of the face. From Pudding Rock, gain the Noeline Shelf, climb up to the right across the face and then up beside the prominent rock rib on the right. Climb the rib or the slopes adjacent to it, then ascend diagonally across to the South Ridge below the fourth rock step.", "ascent": "Pete Strang, J R McKinnon, J Milne, R J Stewart, Nov 1962" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki/mt-cook-range/aoraki-mt-cook/aoraki-mt-cook-low-pk/south-face/direct-route", "name": "Direct Route", "grade": "4,VII", "topo_ref": "3.92", "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": "4", "commitment": "VII", "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "From the Noeline ascend 70 ice gully on the R of the main ice cliffs and left of Gates of Steel, then directly up turning the first prominent icecliffs on the left and the next cliffs on the R. Not the safest line." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": "From the Noeline Glacier, ascend an ice gully on the right of the main icecliffs (crux), then go directly up, turning icecliffs as necessary. Tops out near the summit of Low Peak.", "ascent": "Bill Denz, November 1972" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki/mt-cook-range/aoraki-mt-cook/aoraki-mt-cook-low-pk/south-face/gates-steel", "name": "The Gates of Steel", "grade": "5,VII", "topo_ref": "3.93", "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": "5", "commitment": "VII", "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "Ascend the large buttress right of the Noeline Shelf icecliffs, then weave through icecliffs as necessary to gain the upper South Ridge. The buttress is reportedly fairly safe but the rock is of mixed quality." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Bill Denz, Nigel Perry, Jan 1981." }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki/mt-cook-range/aoraki-mt-cook/aoraki-mt-cook-low-pk/south-face/david-and-goliath", "name": "David and Goliath", "grade": "5,VII", "topo_ref": "3.94", "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": "5", "commitment": "VII", "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "" } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": "The prominent ice gully that finishes by turning left onto the top of the rock buttress of The Gates of Steel. Provides 600m of good ice in fat ice years.", "ascent": "Paul Aubrey, Pete Axford, Nov 1987." }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki/mt-cook-range/aoraki-mt-cook/aoraki-mt-cook-low-pk/south-face/pounamu", "name": "Pounamu", "grade": "4+,VI", "topo_ref": "3.95", "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": "4+", "commitment": "VI", "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "13 pitches on R of face to join Hillary Ridge (South Ridge) just below the second step." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": "A 13 pitch route that climbed five ice pitches to the left of Nerve Runner before traversing right on mixed ground (with a 30m abseil) past Romeo and Juliet. The upper half of the route climbed up and right on easier terrain, following natural weaknesses, to join the top of Sodom and Gomorrah.", "ascent": "Marty Schmidt, Elke Braun-Elwert, October 2011" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki/mt-cook-range/aoraki-mt-cook/aoraki-mt-cook-low-pk/south-face/nerve-runner", "name": "Nerve Runner", "grade": "5,VII", "topo_ref": "3.96", "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": "5", "commitment": "VII", "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "Start on the buttress immediately right of David and Goliath. Fifteen pitches straight up mixed ground with steep ice runnels. Good rock pro. Exit 200 metres left of Romeo and Juliet through icecliffs. Aptly named. Unrepeated." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Nick Cradock, Bryan Dyson, Dec 1987." }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki/mt-cook-range/aoraki-mt-cook/aoraki-mt-cook-low-pk/south-face/romeo-and-juliet", "name": "Romeo and Juliet", "grade": "4+,VI,5", "topo_ref": "3.97", "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": "4+", "commitment": "VI", "mtcook": "5", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "Ascend the ice gully on the right side of the face, just right of the\r\nprominent icecliff and exit onto the South Ridge." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Lionel Clay, Anne Palmer, Dec 1987." }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki/mt-cook-range/aoraki-mt-cook/aoraki-mt-cook-low-pk/south-face/sodom-and-gomorrah", "name": "Sodom and Gomorrah", "grade": "5,V", "topo_ref": "3.98", "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": "5", "commitment": "V", "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "Start up Romeo and Juliet, then continue up and right on a ramp for 100m, then straight up for five rope lengths to exit at a prominent level section of the South Ridge below the third step." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Brian Alder, Dave Vass, Nov 1988." }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki/mt-cook-range/aoraki-mt-cook/aoraki-mt-cook-low-pk/south-face/remembrance", "name": "Remembrance", "grade": "6,V", "topo_ref": "3.99", "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": "6", "commitment": "V", "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": null } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": "A 550m climb that skirts up the left edge of the 2014 rockfall zone. A narrow ice gully through the lower bluffs turns to thin mixed climbing before reaching the right edge of a large snow ramp that splits the right side of the face. Climb to the top of the snow ramp into another corner system above, which provides a few more narrow ice pitches (WI4) and finally some left-trending mixed climbing (M5) to top out above the second step in the South Ridge. Ben descended the edge of the Caroline Face from this point after the first ascent.", "ascent": "Ben Dare, Nov 2017" } ], "places": [], "image": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/wide/public/image/South%20Face%20Mt%20Cook.jpg?itok=_F1dj3j3", "images": [ { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/wide/public/image/South%20Face%20Mt%20Cook.jpg?itok=_F1dj3j3", "height": "636", "width": "900" }, { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/wide/public/2024-01/ATP%20Book_135.jpg?itok=w1UiuOwe", "height": "993", "width": "1071" }, { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/image/ATP%20Book_135.jpg?itok=8_Ns1GYb", "height": "301", "width": "325" } ] }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki/mt-cook-range/aoraki-mt-cook/aoraki-mt-cook-low-pk/caroline-face", "name": "Caroline Face", "altitude": null, "access": null, "description": "The last face to be climbed on the Aoraki/Mt Cook Massif.\nA Korean party may have climbed a route right (!) of the Clit Route but details are lacking.", "latlng": null, "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki/mt-cook-range/aoraki-mt-cook/aoraki-mt-cook-low-pk/caroline-face/denz-route", "name": "Denz Route", "grade": "5", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "5", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "Follow the Clit Route to the shelf, then head across the shelf and ascend gullies and snowfields l000m to the Low Peak, meeting the South Ridge 40m below the summit." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Bill Denz, November 1972;" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki/mt-cook-range/aoraki-mt-cook/aoraki-mt-cook-low-pk/caroline-face/clit-route", "name": "Clit Route", "grade": "5", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "5", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "From the Caroline Glacier ascend an avalanche fan to gain the left side of three rock ribs that lead onto the large shelf. Above here follow the obvious ar\u00eate up to the major icecliffs cutting across the face. Depending on their condition the cliffs can be the technical crux of the climb. Above here continue up a broad rib onto the summit icefields and head directly up the icefields to Porter Col if the icefields are in poor condition." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "John Glasgow, Peter Gough, November 1970;" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki/mt-cook-range/aoraki-mt-cook/aoraki-mt-cook-low-pk/caroline-face/step-left", "name": "A step to the left", "grade": "4+", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "4+", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "Climb the snow rib right of the Clit Route (from the CR or from the Caroline Glacier directly). Miroslav variation continue to join the East Ridge.\r\nThe FA of this route started from Pioneer Hut, to Plateau via Pioneer Pass through Cinerama Col." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Adam Darragh, Rob Starmer, January 1988 (to the top of the rib and traversed into the Clit Route);" } ], "places": [], "image": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/wide/public/image/C70_32-33.jpg?itok=Ph4OOAyd", "images": [ { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/wide/public/image/C70_32-33.jpg?itok=Ph4OOAyd", "height": "636", "width": "900" } ] } ], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki/main-divide/mt-tasman-horokoau": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki/main-divide/mt-tasman-horokoau", "name": "Mt Tasman Horokoau", "altitude": "3497m", "access": null, "description": null, "latlng": [ "-43.56532147", "170.15725097" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki/main-divide/mt-tasman-horokoau/silberhorn-ar%C3%AAte", "name": "Silberhorn Ar\u00eate", "grade": "3+", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "3+", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "Climb to the Main Divide via Clarke Saddle, Graham Spur, or Silberhorn. Then ascend the final steep ice ar\u00eate; a classically beautiful ice climb." } ], "quality": 1, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Jack Clarke, Edward FitzGerald, Mattias Zurbriggen, Feb 1895." }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki/main-divide/mt-tasman-horokoau/direct-south-summit", "name": "Direct to the south of the Summit", "grade": "4-", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "4-", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "Up directly to the col between Silberhorn and Mt Tasman." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Kobi Bosshard, Fritz Schaumburg, Jan 1962." }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki/main-divide/mt-tasman-horokoau/direct-north-shoulder", "name": "Direct to the North Shoulder", "grade": "4", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "4", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "Up slopes under the summit of Mt Tasman parallel to Syme Ridge, finishing either directly to the summit or onto the North Shoulder." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Hans Leitner, Eberhard von Terzi, Jan 1960." }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki/main-divide/mt-tasman-horokoau/syme-ridge", "name": "Syme Ridge", "grade": "3+", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "3+", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "Access onto the ridge is either up the slopes under the East Face (the \u2018Mad Mile\u2019), up a broad gully on the toe of the ridge, or from the north-east side of the ridge (a rock section on the ridge has been crumbling away for some years but seems to be stable now). Then follow a narrow winding ar\u00eate, which gradually broadens, to gain the North Shoulder of Mt Tasman. From here follow the Main Divide, which narrows before rising to the summit." } ], "quality": 1, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Dan Bryant, Rod Syme, 1930." }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki/main-divide/mt-tasman-horokoau/north-shoulder", "name": "North Shoulder", "grade": "3,IV,3+", "topo_ref": "11.127", "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": "3", "commitment": "IV", "mtcook": "3+", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": null } ], "quality": 1, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": "A classic climb. From the summit of Lendenfeld, Tasman appears very close and, if conditions are good enough that you do not have to pitch the route, then it should not take long. However, several parties have found themselves on overnight epics due to pitching the entire Plateau Face, usually due to hard ice. There is nothing very steep on this climb, but you need to be comfortable with a lot of air under your feet.The climb is best approached by traversing over Lendenfeld to reach Engineer Col. Above Engineer Col, there is often an icecliff straddling the ridge crest. The route usually follows moderately steep ice gullies on the Plateau Face to where Syme Ridge joins the North Shoulder. Although the section above the col has changed markedly over the last few decades, it still provides a relatively straightforward route onto the shoulder. The broad North Shoulder eventually narrows into an exhilarating ridge, which leads to the summit. Also used as a descent route.", "ascent": "Marcel Kurz, Harold Porter, Jan 1927 (Descended)." } ], "places": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/main-divide-of-the-southern-alps/mt-tasman/east-face", "name": "East Face", "altitude": null, "access": null, "description": "The two recognised routes on directly on the East Face exist, but the line of ascent may alter owing to changing ice conditions. Both routes are threatened by ice avalanches.", "latlng": null, "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/main-divide-of-the-southern-alps/mt-tasman/east-face/bosshard-schaumburg", "name": "Bosshard/ Schaumburg", "grade": "4-", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "4-", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "Up directly to the col between Silberhorn and Mt Tasman." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Kobi Bosshard, Fritz Schaumburg, Jan 1962." }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/main-divide-of-the-southern-alps/mt-tasman/east-face/leitner-von-terzi", "name": "Leitner/ Von Terzi", "grade": "4", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "4", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "Up slopes under the summit of Mt Tasman parallel to Syme Ridge, finishing either directly to the summit or onto the North Shoulder." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Hans Leitner, Eberhard von Terzi, Jan 1960." } ], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/main-divide-of-the-southern-alps/mt-tasman/heemskirk-face", "name": "Heemskirk Face", "altitude": null, "access": null, "description": "Accessed from the Heemskirk Galcier part of the Fox Neve", "latlng": null, "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/main-divide-of-the-southern-alps/mt-tasman/heemskirk-face/heemskirk-face", "name": "Heemskirk Face", "grade": "3+,V,3+", "topo_ref": "11.128", "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": "3+", "commitment": "V", "mtcook": "3+", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": null } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": "Start up a broad gully on the right of the face until above the prominent central icecliff. Then move up left towards the North Shoulder. The icecliff is currently threatening the route.", "ascent": "Maurice Conway, Wayne McIlwraith, Dec 1972." }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/main-divide-of-the-southern-alps/mt-tasman/heemskirk-face/arapiles-oh-arapiles", "name": "Arapiles, Oh Arapiles", "grade": "4,V,3+", "topo_ref": "11.129", "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": "4", "commitment": "V", "mtcook": "3+", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "Follow the ridge between the Heemskirk Face and North Buttress. Poor rock. First ascent team descended a couloir into the Abel Janszoon after reaching the top of the North Buttress." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": "Follow an ar\u00eate between Heemskerck Face and North Buttress to join the North Buttress route. Poor rock. The first ascent team descended a couloir into the Abel Janszoon from the top of the North Buttress", "ascent": "M Roberts, A Slater, Jan 1994." }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/main-divide-of-the-southern-alps/mt-tasman/heemskirk-face/north-buttress", "name": "North Buttress", "grade": "4+,V,4+", "topo_ref": "11.130", "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": "4+", "commitment": "V", "mtcook": "4+", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": null } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": "Ascend snow slopes towards Witches Col at the foot of the buttress, and head up the northern side of the rib. After 200m, cut back onto the rib and follow it to the prominent notch (may require an abseil). Above here, cut left and find the best and safest route through the icecliffs.\n\u2018The Heemskerck and Abel Janzoon Faces\nare topped by the enormous icecap of the North Shoulder. This seems to have cycles of serac building and although generally stable, it has been known to calve in cataclysmic fashion\u2019 \u2013 Dave Vass.\nDave Vass, Nick Cradock, July 1998", "ascent": "Alan Berry, Neil Hamilton, Dec 1955" } ], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/main-divide-of-the-southern-alps/mt-tasman/abel-janszoon-face", "name": "Abel Janszoon Face", "altitude": null, "access": null, "description": "Above the Abel Janszoon Glacier. Witches Col, between the North Buttress route on Mt Tasman and The Buttress can provide a access point to the Abel Janszoon Glacier", "latlng": null, "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/main-divide-of-the-southern-alps/mt-tasman/abel-janszoon-face/centurion", "name": "Centurion", "grade": "18,5+,VI,5", "topo_ref": "11.131", "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": "5+", "commitment": "VI", "mtcook": "5", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": "18", "description": null } ], "quality": 1, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": "The major zigzag buttress right of the North Buttress. There are approximately 15 pitches of excellent mixed climbing involving three major rock steps. The first ascent team avoided the second rock step by \u2018dropping into the gully on the right.\u2019 Variation: climb the second buttress directly (Tech Grade 6, crux 18).\nThis route is best climbed in the spring or winter when a bit of ice holds any loose rock together. The first ascent team bivvied twice en route (a good site is at two thirds height on a narrow ice ar\u00eate).\nDave Crow, Andy MacFarlane, Jon Taylor, Jun 1994", "ascent": "Dave Crow, Andy MacFarlane, Jon Taylor, Jun 1994" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/main-divide-of-the-southern-alps/mt-tasman/abel-janszoon-face/white-jasmine", "name": "White Jasmine", "grade": "4+,VI,5", "topo_ref": "11.132", "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": "4+", "commitment": "VI", "mtcook": "5", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "Start up the same gully as the original route (11.134) to gain the broad rock buttress on the left. Follow the buttress tending left to exit via a hidden couloir that leads through the final rock curtain below the icecliffs. Ascend through the icecliffs onto the North Shoulder." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Dave Bamford, John Nankervis, Mar 1983." }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/main-divide-of-the-southern-alps/mt-tasman/abel-janszoon-face/elder", "name": "Elder", "grade": "5", "topo_ref": "11.133", "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "5", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": null } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": "Ascend the gully start of the Original Route (11.134) and, instead of moving right on the large snowfields, continue straight up the gully systems onto the North Shoulder.", "ascent": "Steve Elder, Jun 1986." }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/main-divide-of-the-southern-alps/mt-tasman/abel-janszoon-face/original", "name": "Original", "grade": "4,VI,5", "topo_ref": "11.134", "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": "4", "commitment": "VI", "mtcook": "5", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "Ascend a gully line to the left of the prominent icecliffs in the middle of the face, moving right onto the central snowfields. Finish up steep sastrugied ice to the left of the summit." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Merv English, Murray Jones, Dec 1977." }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/main-divide-of-the-southern-alps/mt-tasman/abel-janszoon-face/nipple-rib", "name": "Nipple Rib", "grade": "4+,VI,5", "topo_ref": "11.135", "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": "4+", "commitment": "VI", "mtcook": "5", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": null } ], "quality": 1, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": "Starting on the left side of the Stevenson-Dick Couloir, head up steep snow to the foot of a major rib leading to the west ridge. Ascend rock of reasonable quality for 15 pitches to emerge onto a prominent rock tower known as the Nipple, 130m below the summit of Tasman.", "ascent": "Phil Grover, John Nankervis, Jan 1982." }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/main-divide-of-the-southern-alps/mt-tasman/abel-janszoon-face/harris-jones-rib", "name": "Harris-Jones Rib", "grade": "4+,VI,4+", "topo_ref": "11.136", "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": "4+", "commitment": "VI", "mtcook": "4+", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": null } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": "The route ascends the lower Stevenson-Dick Couloir, and then moves left onto a subsidiary rib beside the couloir. The rock on the rib is of variable quality but nowhere is severe climbing.", "ascent": "George Harris, Murray Jones, Jan 1969." }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/main-divide-of-the-southern-alps/mt-tasman/abel-janszoon-face/stevenson-dick-couloir", "name": "Stevenson-Dick Couloir", "grade": "3+,V,3+", "topo_ref": "11.137", "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": "3+", "commitment": "V", "mtcook": "3+", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "A continuous 800m slope descending from the West Ridge, averaging 40-50o. Beware soft snow avalanches and rockfall. Has been skied!" } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": "A continuous 800m slope descending from the West ridge, averaging 40\u201350 degrees. Beware soft snow avalanches and rockfall. Has been skied.", "ascent": "Doug Dick, Harry Stevenson, Dec 1941 (Descended)." }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/main-divide-of-the-southern-alps/mt-tasman/abel-janszoon-face/dream-dutch-sailors", "name": "The Dream of the Dutch Sailors", "grade": "4+,V,4+", "topo_ref": "11.138", "image": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/route/SH_DODS.jpg?itok=82Zzv1yl", "images": [ { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/route/SH_DODS.jpg?itok=82Zzv1yl", "height": "325", "width": "244" } ], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": "4+", "commitment": "V", "mtcook": "4+", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": null } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": "Gain the buttress between the icecliff and the base of the Stevenson-Dick Couloir, and head straight up snow and mixed steps on the crest of the buttress, aiming for the mixed gully that breaches the headwall, and then continue up the crest. A terrific big moderate route with enough variety in the climbing to keep it interesting, but easy enough to travel fast. Continue up the West Ridge and down the North Shoulder.", "ascent": "Stuart Hollaway and Dale Thistlethwaite 23\u201324 December 2012" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/main-divide-of-the-southern-alps/mt-tasman/abel-janszoon-face/path-manolin", "name": "Path of Manolin", "grade": "18,5,V,5+", "topo_ref": "11.139", "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "5+", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": "18", "description": null }, { "alpine": "5", "commitment": "V", "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": null } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": "Up the 550m rock buttress immediately left of the Torres-Tasman Col to reach the start of the ice on the west ridge. There are two pitches of grade 17, which are steep and well protected. The rest of the climbing is around grade 12 with, just a bit of scruffy mucking about. Being situated on a buttress gives it a feeling of being safe from most of the objective hazards above.", "ascent": "Felix Landman, Stuart Holloway Jan 2011" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/main-divide-of-the-southern-alps/mt-tasman/abel-janszoon-face/west-ridge", "name": "West Ridge", "grade": "4,V", "topo_ref": "11.140", "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": "4", "commitment": "V", "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": null } ], "quality": 1, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": "One of the great New Zealand classics, involving remoteness, exposure, and absolutely engaging ridge climbing. The normal\nroute traverses Torres Peak, making this a long, committing route.\nAbove Torres-Tasman Col, use the rock ribs on the Balfour Glacier side, and then follow the narrow ar\u00eate upward. The ar\u00eate gradually broadens out towards the summit of Tasman. Knowing this takes the sting out of the commitment of the route. If you need to escape from low down on the ridge, the best option is probably back up to the summit of Torres, and then down the North East Couloir. Just make sure you can descend the Abel Janszoon Glacier, as it sometimes gets cut off with large crevasses.", "ascent": "Les Cleveland, Neil Hamilton, John Lange, Jan 1951 (descended during the first Tasman-Torres Traverse)." }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/main-divide-of-the-southern-alps/mt-tasman/abel-janszoon-face/full-west-ridge-fox-range", "name": "Full West Ridge via the Fox Range", "grade": "4,V", "topo_ref": "11.141", "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": "4", "commitment": "V", "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": null } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": "This is a classic journey starting 3330m below the summit of Tasman. Requires creativity in your planning, a good weather window, and about three days. It\u2019s possible to skirt around Big Mac on the Balfour side on a narrow snow ledge. This avoids dropping down long snow slopes on the Fox side to Katies Col.", "ascent": "Aat Vervoorn, Dec 1999" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/main-divide-of-the-southern-alps/mt-tasman/abel-janszoon-face/torres-tasman-col", "name": "Torres -Tasman Col", "grade": "4,V", "topo_ref": "11.142", "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": "4", "commitment": "V", "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": null } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": "A short route of steep snow and ice, which unfortunately tends to act as a funnel for any rubbish falling from the surrounding slopes. Stay away.", "ascent": null } ], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/main-divide-of-the-southern-alps/mt-tasman/hidden-face", "name": "Hidden Face", "altitude": null, "access": null, "description": "A very big icefall crevasse may present difficulties when accessing the routes on this face.\nAll routes start on the Balfour Neve", "latlng": null, "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/main-divide-of-the-southern-alps/mt-tasman/hidden-face/hippo-takes-holiday", "name": "Hippo Takes A Holiday", "grade": "6", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "6", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "Ascend a corner system 50 metres left of the Direct route. Exit onto the Torres-Tasman ridge just above the buttress, above the col." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Brian Alder, Dave Vass, Sep 1989." }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/main-divide-of-the-southern-alps/mt-tasman/hidden-face/direct", "name": "Direct", "grade": "6", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "6", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "Begin up the gully left of the Sissons Buttress, then ascend a narrow gully\r\nand rock pitch to gain the ridge edge of a prominent snowfield. Head up a pitch of steep bulging ice (crux), and then follow the broad gully out right. A fierce climb." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Guy Halliburton, Alan Woods, Jan 1982." }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/main-divide-of-the-southern-alps/mt-tasman/hidden-face/mortimer-sissons-gully", "name": "Mortimer-Sissons Gully", "grade": "5+", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "5+", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "The route heads up a deep gully left of the Sissons Buttress. The gully widens out, and the route tends right and leads to an amphitheatre. Move right again and up to the ridge." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Greg Mortimer, Noel Sissons, Nov 1979." }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/main-divide-of-the-southern-alps/mt-tasman/hidden-face/sissons-buttress", "name": "Sissons Buttress", "grade": "5", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "5", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "Ascend the prominent rib just right of centre of the face. The rock is comparatively solid and the climbing sustained. The rib peters out and is followed by 200m of snow and ice." } ], "quality": 1, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "John Fantini, Noel Sissons, Jan 1975." }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/main-divide-of-the-southern-alps/mt-tasman/hidden-face/balfour-rib", "name": "Balfour Rib", "grade": "4", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "4", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "The bottom section of buttress is avoided by snowslopes beside the Balfour Face (although the first ascent climbed the buttress). Then it is up, around, and through ice bulges to the Tasman-Torres ridge." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "John Harrison, Brian Hearfield, Wally Romanes, Jim Wilson, Dec 1959." } ], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/main-divide-of-the-southern-alps/mt-tasman/balfour-face", "name": "Balfour Face", "altitude": null, "access": null, "description": "All routes are accessed from the Upper Balfour Neve", "latlng": null, "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/main-divide-of-the-southern-alps/mt-tasman/balfour-face/mists-avalon", "name": "Mists of Avalon", "grade": "6+", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "6+", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "Ascend steep ice left of the buttress followed by the Left Buttress Route. Thirteen pitches (first four are the crux). Reportedly harder than the original line." } ], "quality": 1, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "John Fantini, Tony Dignan, Jan 1986." }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/main-divide-of-the-southern-alps/mt-tasman/balfour-face/left-buttress", "name": "Left Buttress", "grade": "6", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "6", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "Ascend the rock buttress on the left side of the face, but right of the\r\nprominent icecliffs. Steep climbing on rock gives way to mixed ground and then steep ice onto the summit icefields." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Marty Beare, John Entwisle, Feb 1983." }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/main-divide-of-the-southern-alps/mt-tasman/balfour-face/rattus-balfourus", "name": "Rattus Balfourus", "grade": "6", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "6", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "Just right of the Left Buttress is a narrow couloir leading up to the headwall ice shared with the Original Route. From here it is possible to either ascend the icewalls out left or tend right towards the Tasman-Silberhorn ridge." } ], "quality": 1, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Russell Braddock, Kim Logan, Nov 1982." }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/main-divide-of-the-southern-alps/mt-tasman/balfour-face/original-route", "name": "Original Route", "grade": "6", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "6", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "A few lines have been added to the right side of the face, Dave Andrews and Neil Harding-Roberts completed a buttress route in winter 1984, but it is not clear where this goes. The following routes exit onto the Tasman-Silberhorn ridge." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": "The route that started it all. Ascend the gully (or the rib on its right) in\nthe centre of the face before being confronted by rising icewalls. Climb\nthese tending left and finish up 45o ice slopes to the summit. Some parties\nhave climbed the ice walls direct and finished on the Tasman-Silberhorn\nridge.", "ascent": "Bill Denz, Bryan Pooley, Dec 1971." }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/main-divide-of-the-southern-alps/mt-tasman/balfour-face/whimp-lindblade", "name": "Whimp/ Lindblade", "grade": "6-", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "6-", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "Gully right of the Original Route. Steep, with hard ice in winter." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Athol Whimp, Andrew Lindblade, Jul 1993." }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/main-divide-of-the-southern-alps/mt-tasman/balfour-face/mr-curly%E2%80%99s-big-adventure", "name": "Mr Curly\u2019s Big Adventure", "grade": "16,5", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "5", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": "16", "description": "Climb the Right Buttress involving 200m of rock. The first pitch is solid, but the rest is more exciting (crux 16). 200m of ice follows the rock, starting at 70o and kicking back, as the route joins the Silberhorn-Tasman ridge at mid height." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Jonathan Chapman, Joe Stock, Jan 1995." }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/main-divide-of-the-southern-alps/mt-tasman/balfour-face/right-buttress-variant", "name": "A Right Buttress Variant", "grade": null, "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "100m right of the Original Route." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Jeff Sandifort, T Vervonsi, Jan 1997." } ], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki/fox-glacier-te-moeka-o-tuawe/buttress", "name": "The Buttress", "altitude": "2776m", "access": null, "description": "A two kilometre long ridge extends north from the foot of Tasman\u2019s North Shoulder separating the Heemskirk and Abel Janszoon Glaciers. There are many more lines to do on The Buttress.", "latlng": [ "-43.552363", "170.160575" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki/fox-glacier-te-moeka-o-tuawe/buttress/comac", "name": "COMAC", "grade": "3-", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "3-", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "A seven pitch route up an ar\u00eate on the North Face, climbed from the lower Heemskirk Glacier." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Nick Cradock, D Owen, Susan McNair, Feb 1987." }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki/fox-glacier-te-moeka-o-tuawe/buttress/deuce", "name": "Deuce", "grade": "4,III,M4", "topo_ref": null, "image": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/routes/Deuce-The-Buttress.jpg?itok=fIAN1I6h", "images": [ { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/routes/Deuce-The-Buttress.jpg?itok=fIAN1I6h", "height": "217", "width": "325" } ], "length": "180m", "pitches": [ { "alpine": "4", "commitment": "III", "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": "M4", "length": "180m", "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "Progressive increase in steepness and technical difficulty. Crux near the top in the form of a short overhang." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Josef Kr\u00e1l, Jake Gray, Gavin Lang 22 Sept 2022" } ], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki/main-divide/mt-tasman-horokoau/witches-col", "name": "Witches Col", "altitude": "2860m", "access": null, "description": "A snow col situated at the base of the North Buttress. Witches Col enables access (grade II, 3) to the Abel Janszoon Face.", "latlng": [ "-43.557754", "170.160241" ], "routes": [], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] } ], "image": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/wide/public/image/Whack%2520n%2520Dangle%2CNov%25202011%2CClaytons%2520photos%2520003%5B1%5D.JPG?itok=SGjjzr2Z", "images": [ { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/wide/public/image/Whack%2520n%2520Dangle%2CNov%25202011%2CClaytons%2520photos%2520003%5B1%5D.JPG?itok=SGjjzr2Z", "height": "487", "width": "900" }, { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/image/Tasman%201.jpg?itok=1wf-P1fC", "height": "226", "width": "325" }, { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/image/Tasman%202.jpg?itok=m8OP25zT", "height": "234", "width": "325" } ] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki/main-divide/mt-dampier-rakiroa": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki/main-divide/mt-dampier-rakiroa", "name": "Mt Dampier Rakiroa", "altitude": "3440m", "access": null, "description": "New Zealand's third highest peak, and the second highest point on the Main Divide.", "latlng": [ "-43.5894493", "170.1399345" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki/main-divide/mt-dampier-rakiroa/west-ridge-hicks-dampier-traverse", "name": "West Ridge (Hicks\u2013Dampier Traverse)", "grade": "3,IV,4-", "topo_ref": "3.61", "image": null, "images": [], "length": "0m", "pitches": [ { "alpine": "3", "commitment": "IV", "mtcook": "4-", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": null } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": "0", "natural_pro": false, "description": "Traverse from Mt Hicks via the ridge, avoiding two prominent towers on whichever side is best in the prevailing conditions. Then go up the ridge to a schrund. From here continue up steep snow, through rocks, to the summit. It is also possible to cross the north face to the north ridge and then up to the summit.\nThe true summit maybe harder to attain than how it appears in the literature. (personal observation, Peter Dickson circa 1987).", "ascent": "Syd Brookes, Jack Cox, Marjorie Edgar-Jones, January 1938" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki/main-divide/mt-dampier-rakiroa/hicks/dampier-couloir", "name": "Hicks/Dampier Couloir", "grade": "4+,IV,4-", "topo_ref": "3.62", "image": null, "images": [], "length": "0m", "pitches": [ { "alpine": "4+", "commitment": "IV", "mtcook": "4-", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "From the Sheila Glacier ascend the right diagonal couloir onto the upper\r\nHicks/Dampier ridge. About 2/3rds up the couloir it is possible to break left and follow an ice slope to the ridge line that leads to Hicks." } ], "quality": 1, "bolts": "0", "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "D Waugh, S Sweeney, Jan 1972." }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki/main-divide/mt-dampier-rakiroa/fantini/dignan", "name": "Fantini/Dignan", "grade": "4+,V,5", "topo_ref": "3.63", "image": null, "images": [], "length": "0m", "pitches": [ { "alpine": "4+", "commitment": "V", "mtcook": "5", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "Follow ice gullies left of the Maori Route which ultimately arrive on the\r\nHicks/Dampier Ridge. This route is mostly out of the icecliff fall-line." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": "0", "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "John Fantini, Tony Dignan, Jan 1987." }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki/main-divide/mt-dampier-rakiroa/maori-route", "name": "Maori Route", "grade": "4+,V,5", "topo_ref": "3.64", "image": null, "images": [], "length": "0m", "pitches": [ { "alpine": "4+", "commitment": "V", "mtcook": "5", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "" } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": "0", "natural_pro": false, "description": "Ascend the gully in the centre of the face and connect with a snow ramp leading left. Then climb steep ice on the left edge of the icecliff to gain the upper west ridge.", "ascent": "Nic Kagan, Mark Whetu, Feb 1983." }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki/main-divide/mt-dampier-rakiroa/barcham-waterhouse", "name": "Barcham-Waterhouse", "grade": "3+,IV", "topo_ref": "3.65", "image": null, "images": [], "length": "0m", "pitches": [ { "alpine": "3+", "commitment": "IV", "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": null } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": "0", "natural_pro": false, "description": "Climb towards Green Saddle, but before the Saddle is reached traverse left above the icecliffs to reach the top of the west ridge.", "ascent": null }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki/main-divide/mt-dampier-rakiroa/south-ridge", "name": "South Ridge", "grade": "3+,IV,3", "topo_ref": "3.66", "image": null, "images": [], "length": "0m", "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "3", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "Gained from the upper Linda Glacier either via the snowslope to Green Saddle or up a rib on the right. Thence up a steep rotten ridge. This route is possibly the best descent route off Dampier." }, { "alpine": "3+", "commitment": "IV", "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": null } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": "0", "natural_pro": false, "description": "From Green Saddle, follow a ridge of rotten rock to the summit (good snow cover would help here).See also Route 4.34. A variant involves moving left from the Green Saddle route into a narrow ice couloir which leads to the upper south ridge.\nFirst ascent from Hooker Glacier unknown.", "ascent": "Freda Du Faur, Peter Graham, C Milne, Mar 1912." }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki/main-divide/mt-dampier-rakiroa/green-saddle-original-route", "name": "Green Saddle - Original Route", "grade": "3,IV,3+", "topo_ref": "3.67", "image": null, "images": [], "length": "0m", "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "3+", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "" }, { "alpine": "3", "commitment": "IV", "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": null } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": "0", "natural_pro": false, "description": "Tom Fyfe seems to have a lot of dodgy gullies named after him, many of which he never used himself. Fyfe\u2019s Gut is the narrow couloir directly below Green Saddle.\nFrom the upper Sheila Glacier, climb up the\nrib to the climber\u2019s left of Fyfe\u2019s Gut. It is also possible to climb Fyfe\u2019s Gut but this is extremely prone to rockfall. See also Route 4.33.", "ascent": "Jack Clarke, Tom Fyfe, George Graham (when they climbed Aoraki/Mt Cook)." }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki/main-divide/mt-dampier-rakiroa/east-face", "name": "East Face", "grade": "3+,IV,3+", "topo_ref": "4.34", "image": null, "images": [], "length": "0m", "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "3+", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "From the Linda Glacier it is possible to head up various routes on sound rock to arrive either on the South Ridge or near the summit.\r\nThere are no recorded ascents of gully routes on the left side of the face, or any routes at all on the right side of the face." }, { "alpine": "3+", "commitment": "IV", "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": null } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": "0", "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Syd Brookes, Jack Cox, Marjorie Edgar-Jones, Jan 1938." }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki/main-divide/mt-dampier-rakiroa/north-ridge-mt-vancouver", "name": "North Ridge, via Mt Vancouver", "grade": "3+,V,3+", "topo_ref": "4.35", "image": null, "images": [], "length": "0m", "pitches": [ { "alpine": "3+", "commitment": "V", "mtcook": "3+", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": null } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": "0", "natural_pro": false, "description": "From the summit of Mt Vancouver, follow the ridge to a prominent rock step, which can be climbed via a hidden gully on the eastern side. Climbers wishing to avoid this ridge can traverse across the north face to the Hicks\u2013 Dampier Ridge. See Route 13.21.", "ascent": "Bert Barley, J Forsyth, Mar 1950." }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki/main-divide/mt-dampier-rakiroa/north-west-flank", "name": "North West Flank", "grade": "3+,V,3+", "topo_ref": "13.21", "image": null, "images": [], "length": "0m", "pitches": [ { "alpine": "3+", "commitment": "V", "mtcook": "3+", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "From the La Perouse neve. Start up the avalanche chute to the right of Vancouver\u2019s West Buttress, trending right to gain the left edge of a large diamond buttress of rock. Climb up to gain a snow rib above the buttress, then traverse right, to gain the large snow apron surrounding the summit block of Dampier. The easiest route from here moves right to gain the Hicks-Dampier Ridge, which is followed up steep snow to the summit. Alternatively, head left to gain the north ridge, which involves rock slabs then a sharp ridge to reach the summit. The easiest descent route from Dampier lies down into the Grand Plateau via the south ridge (Route 4.33)." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": "0", "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Gordon Hasell, E R B Graham, T A Nuttall, Jan 1957." } ], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki/main-divide/mt-vancouver": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki/main-divide/mt-vancouver", "name": "Mt Vancouver", "altitude": "3309m", "access": null, "description": null, "latlng": [ "-43.58508798", "170.1418224" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki/main-divide/mt-vancouver/west-buttress", "name": "West Buttress", "grade": "12,4-", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "4-", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": "12", "description": "Begin up slabs to the left of the buttress crest. Follow on up the edge of the\r\nbuttress. The climbing becomes harder towards the top (crux 12). Then follow a snow ar\u00eate to the summit." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "John Fantini, Lindsay Main, Dec 1974." }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki/main-divide/mt-vancouver/la-perouse-glacier", "name": "From the La Perouse Glacier", "grade": "3", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "3", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "Ascend from the La Perouse Glacier n\u00e9v\u00e9 up into the cirque separating Malaspina and Vancouver. From here follow a gully onto Vancouver." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Bill King, Ian McAlpine, Steve Rawnsley, Feb 1985." }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki/main-divide/mt-vancouver/main-divide", "name": "Main Divide", "grade": "3+", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "3+", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "The ridge from Dampier is relatively straightforward (refer to the North Ridge, via Mt Vancouver, Route), on Mt Dampier. Whereas from Malaspina requires traversing rock towers and rock scrambling on unsound rock, which could prove time consuming for a slow party." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": null }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki/main-divide/mt-vancouver/east-face", "name": "East Face", "grade": "3", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "3", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "From the Linda Glacier climb up diagonally to the right to gain a steep snow ar\u00eate leading to the summit. Variations exist for this route on the snowslope to left. Nevertheless it is occasionally used as a descent route." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Bert Barley, J Forsyth, Mar 1950." } ], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki/main-divide/silberhorn": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki/main-divide/silberhorn", "name": "Silberhorn", "altitude": "3300m", "access": null, "description": null, "latlng": [ "-43.57169997", "170.1576975" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki/main-divide/silberhorn/grand-plateau", "name": "From the Grand Plateau", "grade": "3", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "3", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "From the Grand Plateau head 200m up ice-avalanche-threatened slopes under Mt Tasman before turning left to gain the ridge, which is followed to the summit. The most popular approach route to Mt Tasman from the Grand Plateau." } ], "quality": 1, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Jack Clarke, Edward FitzGerald, Mattias Zurbriggen, Feb 1895." }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki/main-divide/silberhorn/balfour-glacier", "name": "From the Balfour Glacier.", "grade": "2", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "2", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "An easy, but remote snow climb from the Balfour Glacier." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Bill Beaven, Norman Hardie, Jim MacFarlane, Earle Riddiford, Dec 1948." } ], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki/malte-brun-range/malte-brun": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki/malte-brun-range/malte-brun", "name": "Malte Brun", "altitude": "3198m", "access": null, "description": "The routes on the western side of Mt Malte Brun provide good rock climbing and can be gained either via the Turnbull Glacier, which joins the upper Bonney Glacier, or up the Malte Brun Glacier.", "latlng": [ "-43.56259269", "170.3047466" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki/malte-brun-range/malte-brun/north-east-ridge", "name": "North East Ridge", "grade": "3+", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "3+", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "Descend from Mt Hamilton to a narrow rubbly notch and climb up a steep slab for 150m, then on up the ridge, which rises in a series of short steps of good rock." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Harry Ayres, Bruce Gillies, Feb 1951." }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki/malte-brun-range/malte-brun/north-face", "name": "North Face", "grade": "3+", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "3+", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "From the lower Bonney Glacier ascend the ribs and slabs of excellent rock between the North East and North Ridges. There is plenty of room for variations." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "A C Rattray, J C Stamers-Smith, Dec 1958." }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki/malte-brun-range/malte-brun/multi-sport-north-face", "name": "Multi Sport (North Face)", "grade": "18,V,5", "topo_ref": null, "image": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/routes/DSC07014-Edit.jpg?itok=gsQZn_AD", "images": [ { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/routes/DSC07014-Edit.jpg?itok=gsQZn_AD", "height": "325", "width": "217" }, { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/routes/DSC06992-Edit-Edit.jpg?itok=4pZDNrh1", "height": "217", "width": "325" } ], "length": "700m", "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": "V", "mtcook": "5", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": "700m", "bolts": null, "trad": true, "ewbank": "18", "description": null } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": true, "description": "Up prominent rock rib to the right of the gully on the North face to the from the Bonney Glacier.\n15 - 20 pitches\n2/3 of the route was on fantastic rock. The last 1/3 was quite chossy.\nFirst accent was done with bivy gear and the team descended down the Bonney Rib.", "ascent": "Asher March, Richie Jacomb FFA March 2019" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki/malte-brun-range/malte-brun/north-ridge", "name": "North Ridge", "grade": "3", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "3", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "This route usually commences from the Bonney Glacier just above the small icefall but there is wide scope for variations especially from below the icefall. The rock on the ridge is good and the climbing pleasantly interesting but nowhere difficult. An enjoyable climb for a sunny day." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Peter Graham, Henrik Sillem, Mar 1906." }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki/malte-brun-range/malte-brun/north-west-face", "name": "North West Face", "grade": "3+", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "3+", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "Scene of Tom Fyfe\u2019s remarkable 1894 solo climb. Fyfe\u2019s route ascends to the left of a shallow couloir in the centre of the face. Other routes ascend to the right of the couloir while some variations keep closer to the North Ridge. Although the climbing is not very difficult, it is still quite sustained." } ], "quality": 1, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Tom Fyfe, Mar 1894." }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki/malte-brun-range/malte-brun/fyfe%E2%80%99s-couloir", "name": "Fyfe\u2019s Couloir", "grade": "3", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "3", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "From the n\u00e9v\u00e9 of the Bonney Glacier, ascend the snow and ice couloir to within l00m of the summit. This can make a quick descent route, but it is a natural funnel for rock fall and avalanches." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "F McMahon, A Simpson, R Yates, Dec 1964." }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki/malte-brun-range/malte-brun/bonney-headwall", "name": "Bonney Headwall", "grade": "4", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "4", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "From the Bonney Glacier climb compact rock that steepens progressively to a crux before a snowcovered ledge Access the ledge toward either the left or the right. Continue up rock directly to the Cheval or follow the ledge which ramps to the right, arriving on the West Ridge about 60m west of the Cheval. Not recommended as a descent." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Brendan Gaynor, Ewan Reid, John Zapp, John Menin, Dec 1971." }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki/malte-brun-range/malte-brun/west-ridge", "name": "West Ridge", "grade": "3", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "3", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "This route, or rather series of routes, starts from the head of the Malte Brun Glacier and joins the West Ridge proper well before the \u201cCheval\u201d, a famous and spectacular narrow section of ridge. The easiest route begins by cutting left from the head of the Malte Brun Glacier up one of a series of couloirs onto a small snowfield and then up a short rock face onto the ridge. An enjoyable alternative, however, is to climb the beautiful rock rib from the col which separates the Malte Brun and Bonney Glaciers. The climbing on these routes is exposed, but not too difficult. On reaching the true West Ridge negotiate the Cheval and then up 200m to the summit. This route is used regularly for descents but be sure to remember where to turn off the West Ridge in order to reach the head of the Malte Brun Glacier." } ], "quality": 1, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Laurence Earle, Freda Du Faur, Peter Graham, Jan 1910." }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki/malte-brun-range/malte-brun/full-west-ridge", "name": "Full West Ridge", "grade": "3+", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "3+", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "From the Beetham Valley the best route is probably to cut across the toe of West Ridge and ascend above the old Malte Brun Hut site, regaining the ridge at a col at 2300m. Follow the ridge on generally good rock. The climb steepens and provides some difficulty before easing off where West Ridge is joined. Cross the Cheval and continue up 200m to the summit.\r\nLaurence Earle, Freda Du Faur, Peter Graham, Jan 1910.\r\nAt least one of the pillars on the north side of the lower ridge has been climbed, and provides excellent climbing (crux 16)." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Max Dorflinger, Otto Von Allmen, Dec 1972." }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki/malte-brun-range/malte-brun/south-ridge", "name": "South Ridge", "grade": "3", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "3", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "From Malte Brun Pass head up the ridge, skirting the first pinnacles on the west side, and then up the crest of the ridge, which rises in two long steps. The rock is highly variable and in parts the ridge is quite exposed. Despite this most of the ridge is on snow and ice." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Peter Graham, Claude Macdonald, Jim Murphy, Feb 1909" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki/malte-brun-range/malte-brun/biophilia", "name": "Biophilia", "grade": "14,4,IV", "topo_ref": null, "image": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/routes/Malte-Brun-Biophilia_0.jpg?itok=bjc9O1D0", "images": [ { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/routes/Malte-Brun-Biophilia_0.jpg?itok=bjc9O1D0", "height": "325", "width": "217" } ], "length": "421m", "pitches": [ { "alpine": "4", "commitment": "IV", "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": "55m", "bolts": null, "trad": true, "ewbank": "14", "description": "Head up from obvious start to join weakness. Chimney moves are the crux" }, { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": "57m", "bolts": null, "trad": true, "ewbank": "12", "description": "Follow weakness/ crack then head left to Arete." }, { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": "58m", "bolts": null, "trad": true, "ewbank": "14", "description": "Continue up arete to large ledge, then follow right trending cracks up to belay ledge." }, { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": "58m", "bolts": null, "trad": true, "ewbank": "13", "description": "Step up to tiny roof, step right, then follow red rock keeping approx 10m right of grey corner." }, { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": "50m", "bolts": null, "trad": true, "ewbank": "14", "description": "Continue up 12m then cross left over grey corner onto new red rib. Steep and fun. Best pitch **" }, { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": "58m", "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": "12", "description": "25m to ledge, ignore existing rap station 10m out left. Plug in .5 cam into grey roof, then step onto red prow." }, { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": "85m", "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": "6", "description": "Easy scrambling to apex of West Ridge. Some existing anchors/ bollards in place at approx 25m intervals." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": true, "description": "An objectively 'safe' rock route with compact featured slabs. A great way to access the West Ridge and descend. Reached from the top of the Malte Brun Glacier either at the left hand edge (grade 16), or more easily up the right hand ramp (see white lines on photo). Rap stations (pitons and nuts) have been established at roughly 60m length on ascent. The route was first attempted up to pitch 4.5 in mountain boots in 2015, and retreat was due to lack of gear. The first complete ascent was done with rock shoes in optimal climbing conditions, switching to approach shoes at the apex of the West Ridge. BYO rap cord and expect to replace it completely.\nRoute photo taken from summit of Rumdoodle in February 2015 with slightly more snow on the route than on the first complete ascent.\nUseful GPS waypoints, current in 2020 are:\nThe point to aim for when climbing the moraine wall (this will get you to the old Malte Brun hut site:\nLat: -43.54864\nLong: 170.28069\nNZTM 1380331 5174664\nElevation: 1640m\nTop of the access gully:\nLat: -43.55025\nLong:170.28311\nElev: 1828m\nBivvy site (there are many others):\nLat: -43.55298\nLong: 170.28782\nElev: 2036m", "ascent": "Ruari MacFarlane, Gavin Lang 6th March 2020" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki/malte-brun-range/malte-brun/malte-bruns-treasure-box", "name": "Malte Bruns' Treasure Box", "grade": "18,V,5", "topo_ref": null, "image": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/2024-01/Route%20Image.jpg?itok=w1b0-BY2", "images": [ { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/2024-01/Route%20Image.jpg?itok=w1b0-BY2", "height": "244", "width": "325" }, { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/2024-01/Route%20Image%203.jpg?itok=Vub1qpE1", "height": "325", "width": "244" } ], "length": "700m", "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": "V", "mtcook": "5", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": "700m", "bolts": null, "trad": true, "ewbank": "18", "description": null } ], "quality": 1, "bolts": "0", "natural_pro": true, "description": "This climb is a variation on Multi Sport and shares the same first 7 pitches. The climb is 16 full pitches at which point the route meets the North East Ridge at 3000m. From here to the summit a lot of chossy Jenga tower ridge line traversing is required.\nFirst ascent was done with bivy gear and descent was down via the Bonney Ridge.", "ascent": "Lukas and Vickie Kirchner" } ], "places": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki/malte-brun-range/malte-brun/east-face-of-malte-brun", "name": "East Face of Malte Brun", "altitude": null, "access": null, "description": "East Face of Malte Brun", "latlng": null, "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki/malte-brun-range/malte-brun/east-face-of-malte-brun/unnamed", "name": "Unnamed", "grade": "4", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "4", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "From the n\u00e9v\u00e9 of the Baker Glacier head up steepish ice (up to 55 degrees) to the right of the prominent rock rib in the centre of the face, move rightwards and up, keeping an eye open for ice avalanches and rockfall. A route best done fairly quickly." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Richard Hancock, John Nankervis, Jan 1978" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki/malte-brun-range/malte-brun/east-face-of-malte-brun/unnamed-0", "name": "Unnamed", "grade": "3+", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "3+", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "From the n\u00e9v\u00e9 of the Baker Glacier ascend the snowslope to the left of the East Rib into an ice couloir that leads onto the upper East Rib. Beware of soft snow avalanches later in the day." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Bernie Gunn, Fred Hollows, Barrie Jackson, Gillian Soper, Dec 1952" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki/malte-brun-range/malte-brun/east-face-of-malte-brun/east-rib", "name": "East Rib", "grade": "3+", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "3+", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "From the n\u00e9v\u00e9 of the Baker Glacier, gain the rib via snowslopes on the left and ascend the mixed snow and rock steps. The rib eases into a snow ar\u00eate and joins the top of the North East Ridge. A classic route." } ], "quality": 1, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Bill Beaven, Ian Gibbs, Earle Riddiford, Hugh Tyndale-Biscoe, Jan 1953" } ], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki/malte-brun-range/malte-brun/south-face", "name": "South Face", "altitude": "2362m", "access": null, "description": "Above Malte Brun Pass", "latlng": null, "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki/malte-brun-range/malte-brun/south-face/moore-gully", "name": "Moore Gully", "grade": "3+,V,4", "topo_ref": "5.99", "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": "3+", "commitment": "V", "mtcook": "4", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "Ascend the prominent gully on the left side of the face to reach the West Ridge below the Cheval." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Peter Moore, Dec 1973." }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki/malte-brun-range/malte-brun/south-face/central-rib", "name": "Central Rib", "grade": "4,VI,4", "topo_ref": "5.100", "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": "4", "commitment": "VI", "mtcook": "4", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "From halfway up the Beetham Glacier ascend broken spurs and ridges on the left side of the prominent central rib." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Ian Cave, Mike Gill, John Nichols, Feb 1960." }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki/malte-brun-range/malte-brun/south-face/christmas-turkey", "name": "The Christmas Turkey", "grade": "4,VI,4", "topo_ref": "5.101", "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": "4", "commitment": "VI", "mtcook": "4", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "Start up a prominent couloir in the centre of the face ( between two distinct aretes), and ascend until the couloir peters out. Traverse left around a buttress then ascend gullies to the upper West Ridge." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Roddie MacKenzie, Craig Nottle, Graham Sanders, Dec 1981." }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki/malte-brun-range/malte-brun/south-face/snuff", "name": "Snuff", "grade": "5,VI", "topo_ref": "5.102", "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": "5", "commitment": "VI", "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": null } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": "Climbs the distinct arete to the right of the Christmas Turkey, beginning just to the left of the \u2018big red spot\u2019 at the bottom of the face. A couple of scrambly pitches on poor rock lead to steepening ground with good rock (two crux pitches of grade 17). The upper part of the route is again easier angled with poor rock. The first ascentionists climbed the route in 16 pitches.", "ascent": "Ben Dare, Mike Rowe, Feb 2011" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki/malte-brun-range/malte-brun/south-face/rock-and-roll", "name": "Rock and Roll", "grade": "4+,V,4", "topo_ref": "5.103", "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": "4+", "commitment": "V", "mtcook": "4", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "Ascend the third prominent snow cone left of the South Ridge and on up mixed snow and rock, with two short steep steps. After 200m, easier ground leads up rightwards towards the summit. If clear of snow and ice, the rock is not very sound." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Dave Fearnley, Fiona MacKenzie, Craig Nottle, Dec 1983." }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki/malte-brun-range/malte-brun/south-face/rock-n-roll-pt-2", "name": "Rock n Roll Pt 2", "grade": "4+,V,4", "topo_ref": "5.104", "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": "4+", "commitment": "V", "mtcook": "4", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "Starts left of the direct route. When good ice covers the \u201cforgettable rock\u201d then this route could be worth a look, otherwise probably not." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Craig Nottle, Dave Fearnley, Fiona MacKenzie, Jan 1984." }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki/malte-brun-range/malte-brun/south-face/rightside-direct", "name": "Rightside Direct", "grade": "4,V,4+", "topo_ref": "5.105", "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": "4", "commitment": "V", "mtcook": "4+", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "Ascend the second prominent snow cone left of the South Ridge and, ignoring a ramp leading right to the Zig Zag route, ascend five steep ice pitches to reach easier-angled snow slopes leading to the summit." } ], "quality": 1, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Duncan Ritchie, Judith Terpestra, Jan 1983." }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki/malte-brun-range/malte-brun/south-face/zig-zag", "name": "Zig Zag", "grade": "4,IV,4-", "topo_ref": "5.106", "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": "4", "commitment": "IV", "mtcook": "4-", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": null } ], "quality": 1, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": "A classic, which is often in condition when the other routes on the face are out of condition. Incredibly this was skied in late October 2017 by the team that made the first ski descent of the Caroline Face. Ascend the second prominent snow cone from the South Ridge and follow a ramp out right and into an amphitheatre. Move up left onto the crest of a buttress and then follow snowfields to the summit.", "ascent": "Nigel Perry, Richard Mortenson, Jan 1981." }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki/malte-brun-range/malte-brun/south-face/south-ridge", "name": "South Ridge", "grade": "3+,III", "topo_ref": "5.107", "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": "3+", "commitment": "III", "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "From Malte Brun Pass skirt around the first few pinnacles on the west side of the lower\r\nridge, then head up the crest of the ridge, which rises in two long steps. The rock is very rotten and in parts the ridge is quite exposed. Not recommended as a summer climb, but rather when it is covered with snow and ice (this doesn\u2019t stop some people though). Probably the best\r\nway to descend if you\u2019ve just climbed the South West Face though it has also been recommended to descend the ridge then cross into the end of the Zig-Zag route nearest the ridge." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Peter Graham, Claude Macdonald, Jim Murphy, Feb 1909" } ], "places": [], "image": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/wide/public/image/Malte%20pg%20194%20photo.jpg?itok=fYyz9USl", "images": [ { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/wide/public/image/Malte%20pg%20194%20photo.jpg?itok=fYyz9USl", "height": "522", "width": "765" }, { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/image/ATP%20Book%20Malte%20pic%20pg%20195.jpg?itok=UO6b-T_K", "height": "228", "width": "325" } ] } ], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki/main-divide/mt-hicks": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki/main-divide/mt-hicks", "name": "Mt Hicks", "altitude": "3198m", "access": null, "description": "First ascended by Alex Graham, Henry Newton, R S Low, 1906. Their route via the west ridge has largely fallen away.", "latlng": [ "-43.58747855", "170.12929916" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki/main-divide/mt-hicks/north-rib", "name": "North Rib", "grade": "15,4,VI", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": "4", "commitment": "VI", "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": true, "ewbank": "15", "description": null } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": true, "description": "Also known as the Biscuit Tin route. From the access route over Harper Saddle to the upper La Perouse n\u00e9v\u00e9, ascend good rock on the face to the right of the rib, following the line of least resistance onto the rib itself. The rib steepens towards the top (crux 14/15). Then follow a flattening ridge for 250m to join the top of the couloir on the Curtain Route.", "ascent": "Peter Gough, P Barry, D Drake, Aat Vervoorn, November 1969" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki/main-divide/mt-hicks/red-wall", "name": "Red Wall", "grade": "4", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": "0m", "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "4", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "An eight pitch route up red rock to the left of couloir on the Curtain Route" } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": "0", "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Mark Inglis, Richard Pears, Dec 1980." }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki/main-divide/mt-hicks/curtain-route-standard-route", "name": "Curtain Route (Standard Route)", "grade": "3", "topo_ref": "3.37", "image": null, "images": [], "length": "0m", "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "3", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "From Harper Saddle ascend the snowslope diagonally to the gap in the west ridge (beware rockfall from the Curtain). Continue up the ridge for 150m before crossing left to a major couloir. Ascend the couloir which comes out about 100m down the ridge from the final 40m rock wall below the summit. \r\n\r\nDescending: Five abseils (bolt anchors) from the top of the couloir followed by an easy traverse across a rock ridge onto the slopes below the Curtain allows easy access to Harper Saddle. Do not rappel down the Curtain." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": "0", "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "George Lowe, Geoff Milne, January 1949" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki/main-divide/mt-hicks/divide-route", "name": "Divide Route", "grade": "3+", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "3+", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "From Harper Saddle head up on snow to the left of the Divide for a short\r\ndistance before crossing onto the edge of the South Face. Follow up ledges and bluffs overlooking the South Face until the Divide flattens out, then follow the ridge up the final 40m wall to the summit." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Harry Ayres, Oscar Coberger, Feb 1951." } ], "places": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki/main-divide/mt-hicks/south-face", "name": "South Face", "altitude": null, "access": null, "description": "The south face of Mt Hicks is the stuff of legend. Due to the face\u2019s proximity to Empress Hut it is sometimes considered a large crag (\u2018large\u2019 being the key word there). The face has some of the best hard climbing in the region; for most routes the first two to three pitches provide the crux.\nThere is no easy descent route from the top of Mt Hicks. If you\u2019ve summited via one of the rock routes in summer, the best descent is probably Route 3.37. If you\u2019ve climbed an ice route it\u2019s probably easier to abseil on v-threads, either down the route you\u2019ve climbed or down the Right Icefields (Route 3.60).", "latlng": null, "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki/main-divide/mt-hicks/south-face/divide-route", "name": "Divide Route", "grade": "3+,IV,3+", "topo_ref": "3.38", "image": null, "images": [], "length": "0m", "pitches": [ { "alpine": "3+", "commitment": "IV", "mtcook": "3+", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": null } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": "0", "natural_pro": false, "description": "From Harper Saddle, head up on snow to the left of the Divide for a short distance before crossing onto the edge of the South Face. Follow up ledges and bluffs overlooking the South Face until the Divide flattens out, then follow the ridge up the final 40m wall to the summit. The \"modern way\" would be to climb the complete Dingle/Button route (3.39).\nHarry Ayres, Oscar Coberger, Feb 1951.", "ascent": null }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki/main-divide/mt-hicks/south-face/dingle-button", "name": "Dingle-Button", "grade": "3+,II,4-", "topo_ref": "3.39", "image": null, "images": [], "length": "0m", "pitches": [ { "alpine": "3+", "commitment": "II", "mtcook": "4-", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": null } ], "quality": 1, "bolts": "0", "natural_pro": false, "description": "This route is popular due to its accessibility and\nlack of commitment, compared to other routes\non the face. It is seldom climbed to the summit.\nStart at the second obvious gully right from\nHarper Saddle. A couple of pitches of moderately\nsteep ice followed by 200m of lesser-angled snow\nand ice leads to the Divide Route. A number of\nvariations have been added further left, all of a\nsimilar grade.", "ascent": "Ray Button, Graeme Dingle, Jun 1979." }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki/main-divide/mt-hicks/south-face/dance-commander", "name": "Dance Commander", "grade": "4+,IV,4+", "topo_ref": "3.40", "image": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/route/Dance-Commander-v2.png?itok=hbpcoqzA", "images": [ { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/route/Dance-Commander-v2.png?itok=hbpcoqzA", "height": "244", "width": "325" } ], "length": "0m", "pitches": [ { "alpine": "4+", "commitment": "IV", "mtcook": "4+", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "Starts up Dingle Button traverses into Deardissima to the shelf then finishes up Highway to Hell/Heavens Door. An easy way to the summit on moderate ground." } ], "quality": 1, "bolts": "0", "natural_pro": false, "description": "Start up Dingle-Button, traverse into Deardissima to\ngain the large shelf, then traverse right and finish\nup Highway to Hell. A comparatively easy way to the\nsummit on moderate ground.", "ascent": "Guy McKinnon, Jan 2014" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki/main-divide/mt-hicks/south-face/tales-choss", "name": "Tales of Choss", "grade": "13,4+,III,4+", "topo_ref": "3.41", "image": null, "images": [], "length": "0m", "pitches": [ { "alpine": "4+", "commitment": "III", "mtcook": "4+", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": "13", "description": "Start at the bottom of the D-B couloir and climb the rib on the\r\nright of the gully (crux 13). Join the Divide Route after six rope lengths." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": "0", "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Roger Parkyn, Andy MacFarlane, Feb 1984." }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki/main-divide/mt-hicks/south-face/deardissima", "name": "Deardissima", "grade": "4", "topo_ref": "3.42", "image": null, "images": [], "length": "0m", "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "4", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": null } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": "0", "natural_pro": false, "description": "Gully immediately right of Dingle-Button. Crosses\nTales of Choss to join the top of Dingle-Button", "ascent": "Marty Beare, Pat Deavoll, Jun 1999." }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki/main-divide/mt-hicks/south-face/king-hit", "name": "King Hit", "grade": "6,IV,5+", "topo_ref": "3.43", "image": null, "images": [], "length": "0m", "pitches": [ { "alpine": "6", "commitment": "IV", "mtcook": "5+", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "" } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": "0", "natural_pro": false, "description": "Follows a line of weakness through the steep area just left of Highway to Hell. Cross the obvious right-trending ramp system between the second and third shelves, then climb the final headwall to reach an extensive area of easy ground half way up the left side of the face. The first ascentionists descended from here by traversing left downclimbing Dingle-Button. Five or six pitches.", "ascent": "Dave Vass, Hugh Barnard, Jun 1995." }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki/main-divide/mt-hicks/south-face/highway-hell", "name": "Highway to Hell", "grade": "5+,V,6", "topo_ref": "3.44", "image": null, "images": [], "length": "0m", "pitches": [ { "alpine": "5+", "commitment": "V", "mtcook": "6", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "Start just left of HD in a right trending gully on 65-85 degree ice (probably thin) then traverse right across a snowslope and step into a narrow gully. Follow the obvious gully and short steep walls. After the first shelf continue up a narrow gully to the second shelf and easy ground. Move left across the shelf then up right through the rock band to gain the summit icefield. Thirteen pitches." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": "0", "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Hugh Grierson, Jade Pope, Dec 1996." }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki/main-divide/mt-hicks/south-face/heavens-door", "name": "Heaven\u2019s Door", "grade": "5+,V,6", "topo_ref": "3.45", "image": null, "images": [], "length": "0m", "pitches": [ { "alpine": "5+", "commitment": "V", "mtcook": "6", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": null } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": "0", "natural_pro": false, "description": "This route aims for the prominent ice flow\nimmediately right of the large shelf on the left\nside of the face. Start up steep, loose ground to\nthe right of Highway to Hell. Five pitches of hard\nclimbing lead to easier ground to the right of the\nlarge shelf. Take the line of least resistance from\nthere to the summit icefields, usually as shown in\ntopo opposite, but variations between there and\nthe upper section of Route 3.47 have also been\nclimbed.", "ascent": "Russell Braddock, Kim Logan, Jan 1983.\tNick Cradock, Paul Aubrey, Jul, 1987" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki/main-divide/mt-hicks/south-face/curver-direct", "name": "The Curver Direct", "grade": "5+,V,6-", "topo_ref": "3.46", "image": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/2023-10/1989-12-012_0.jpg?itok=ONSnC-Jy", "images": [ { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/2023-10/1989-12-012_0.jpg?itok=ONSnC-Jy", "height": "325", "width": "216" }, { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/2023-10/1989-12-013_0.jpg?itok=mVrrA_Lw", "height": "214", "width": "325" }, { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/2023-10/1989-12-015_0.jpg?itok=uUsh8Fbp", "height": "325", "width": "216" } ], "length": "0m", "pitches": [ { "alpine": "5+", "commitment": "V", "mtcook": "6-", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": null } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": "0", "natural_pro": false, "description": "This route seems to have been unaffected by the rockfall. The usual start is about 20-30m left of the very steep cliff on the left side of the rockfall gully, but there are a few different versions. Climb about five pitches of steep terrain to join Route 3.47 at an obvious small shelf.", "ascent": "Lionel Clay, Richard Kirk, August 1986" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki/main-divide/mt-hicks/south-face/curver-neo-classic", "name": "The Curver Neo-classic", "grade": "6,V,6-", "topo_ref": "3.47", "image": null, "images": [], "length": "0m", "pitches": [ { "alpine": "6", "commitment": "V", "mtcook": "6-", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": null } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": "0", "natural_pro": false, "description": "The lower half of the original Curver \u2018Classic\u2019\nhas been destroyed by the rockfalls. The new\nversion of The Curver, up the rear left side of the\nnew gully, is likely to turn into one of the most\npopular hard ice routes on the South Face, as it\nforms regularly.\nClimb the obvious steep ice flow in the back\nof the gully, which is usually thin, to reach the\nright end of an obvious small shelf, then traverse\nslightly left and take your pick of the best looking\nline above, up ice gullies and possibly some\nmixed ground for about six pitches to reach the\nsummit icefields.", "ascent": "Nick Cradock, Tobin Sorenson, Aug 1979." }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki/main-divide/mt-hicks/south-face/one-pavle", "name": "One for Pavle", "grade": "5+,V", "topo_ref": "3.48", "image": null, "images": [], "length": "0m", "pitches": [ { "alpine": "5+", "commitment": "V", "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": null } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": "0", "natural_pro": false, "description": "A strong Slovenian team climbed the difficult\nlower pitches of the Gunbarrels during the brief\nperiod between rockfall events, then traversed\ndelicately towards The Curver before finishing\nfurther right with a new extended finish.\nDepending on conditions, the upper part of this\nroute looks like a great alternate finish to Route\n3.47. The grade reflects the difficulty of the upper\nvariant line only. The lower pitches of this route\nwere about Technical Grade 7.", "ascent": "Pavle Kozjek, Grega Kresal, Simon Slejko, Mar 2004" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki/main-divide/mt-hicks/south-face/gunbarrels", "name": "Gunbarrels", "grade": "7,V,6,WI5", "topo_ref": "3.49", "image": null, "images": [], "length": "0m", "pitches": [ { "alpine": "7", "commitment": "V", "mtcook": "6", "aid": null, "ice": "WI5", "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "Original: Up two difficult pitches, into the bottom of the Curver Gully, then up three pitches until a diagonal gully cuts back right to the foot of the prominent double ice couloirs (the Gunbarrels). The first two or so original pitches fell off in 1999." } ], "quality": 1, "bolts": "0", "natural_pro": false, "description": "Pick a line up the upper-right region of the recent\nrockfall wedge, probably climbing a new route\nas you go, to reach a gully that leads up and right\nto the base of the prominent double ice couloirs\n(the Gunbarrels). Climb the Gunbarrels (grade 6),\nthen climb sustained moderate-angled ice to\nthe summit.\nOn the impressive first ascent of the original\nGunbarrels, Bill Denz aided the first two vertical to\noverhanging pitches (including a 50m ice pillar)\non Doubek ice screws. Then in a game of oneupmanship,\nnumerous parties attempted to free\nthe lower pitches. Allan Uren and Julian White made the first free ascent, only to have the lower\n2.5 pitches obliterated by the 1999 rockfall. These\nlower pitches were climbed in November 1999 by a\nstrong kiwi team, but it was visiting climber Gren\nHinton who was the first to climb the full route\npost-rockfall. Only one more party got to climb\nthe route before the 2007 rockfall, which appears\nto have made the lower area quite thin and steep.", "ascent": "Bill Denz, Phil Herron, Murray Judge, Jun 1975.\twith aid" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki/main-divide/mt-hicks/south-face/yankee-kiwi-couloir", "name": "Yankee-Kiwi Couloir", "grade": "6,V,6+", "topo_ref": "3.50", "image": null, "images": [], "length": "0m", "pitches": [ { "alpine": "6", "commitment": "V", "mtcook": "6+", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "Ascends the Direct Start of the Left Hand Buttress Route, then up a steep ice couloir to the left of the Left\r\nButtress to the base of the Original Gunbarrels" } ], "quality": 1, "bolts": "0", "natural_pro": false, "description": "When this classic route was first climbed it\nfollowed the steepest line into the Gunbarrels that\nexisted at the time.\nClimb either 3.51i or 3.51ii, then up a steep\nice couloir to the left of the Left Buttress (the\nYankee-Kiwi Couloir) to the base of the Gunbarrels.\nContinue as for Route 3.48. Awesome fun on a\nsustained line.", "ascent": "Nick Cradock, Tobin Sorenson, Aug 1979." }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki/main-divide/mt-hicks/south-face/left-buttress-direct-start", "name": "Left Buttress Direct Start", "grade": "18,6,V,6", "topo_ref": "3.51", "image": null, "images": [], "length": "0m", "pitches": [ { "alpine": "6", "commitment": "V", "mtcook": "6", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": "18", "description": null } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": "0", "natural_pro": false, "description": "Climb directly to the ledge traversed by the\nOriginal Route by either (i) the sustained face to\nthe left of the lowest promontory of rock, possibly\ndealing with a couple of small overhangs en route,\nor (ii) a corner system directly below the upper\nbuttress. Some parties have started up 3.51ii and\ntraversed into 3.51i. From the ledge, continue up\nprominent wide cracks in the bottom cliffs to the\nright of the crest of the buttress (grade 18). Joins\nthe Original Route where the gradient eases.", "ascent": "Nick Cradock, Nic Kagan, February 1978" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki/main-divide/mt-hicks/south-face/left-buttress", "name": "Left Buttress", "grade": "15,6,V,5+", "topo_ref": "3.52", "image": null, "images": [], "length": "0m", "pitches": [ { "alpine": "6", "commitment": "V", "mtcook": "5+", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": "15", "description": null } ], "quality": 1, "bolts": "0", "natural_pro": false, "description": "Ascend two pitches on the bottom wall nearer the Central Gullies, then traverse left directly below the main buttress to reach an ice ramp left of the buttress. Then either ascend directly up the buttress crest (crux 15), or up the ramp for a short distance before regaining the buttress, or up a short buttress left of the ramp before cutting back right again. Follow the buttress up progressively easier rock until the icefields. Then, depending on the state of the icecliffs, traverse left and up, or else through the cliffs. Superb.", "ascent": "Graeme Dingle, Murray Jones, December 1970" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki/main-divide/mt-hicks/south-face/desolation-row", "name": "Desolation Row", "grade": "5+,VI,6", "topo_ref": "3.53", "image": null, "images": [], "length": "0m", "pitches": [ { "alpine": "5+", "commitment": "VI", "mtcook": "6", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": null } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": "0", "natural_pro": false, "description": "Start up Route 3.52, then traverse slightly right\nfor 50m and up diagonally left for another 100m\nbefore ascending directly to emerge near the top\nof the Left Buttress.", "ascent": "Bill Denz, Nigel Perry, January 1981" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki/main-divide/mt-hicks/south-face/generation-y", "name": "Generation Y", "grade": "6,IV,WI4,M5", "topo_ref": "3.54", "image": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/route/generationy_route.jpg?itok=qdeSdzv0", "images": [ { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/route/generationy_route.jpg?itok=qdeSdzv0", "height": "243", "width": "325" } ], "length": "0m", "pitches": [ { "alpine": "6", "commitment": "IV", "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": "WI4", "mixed": "M5", "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": null } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": "0", "natural_pro": false, "description": "A variation direct start to Central Gullies. Start from a thin gully just\nright of Desolation Row (MC6). Difficult mixed terrain on the third pitch\nwhere the variation exited the thin gully and tended right towards Central\nGullies. Seven pitches.", "ascent": "Jamie Vinton-Boot, Matt Thom, October 2011" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki/main-divide/mt-hicks/south-face/central-gullies", "name": "Central Gullies", "grade": "5,V,6-", "topo_ref": "3.55", "image": null, "images": [], "length": "0m", "pitches": [ { "alpine": "5", "commitment": "V", "mtcook": "6-", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "There are a number of variation starts and finishes. Choose a start and head up ice, sustained climbing through ice couloirs and icefields until easier 45o slopes lead to the icecliffs. Depending on the state of the cliffs, find a route through them to the summit." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": "0", "natural_pro": false, "description": "The first of the big ice climbs on this face. There\nare a number of variation starts and finishes\u2014all\nof the main ice flows between the Left and Right\nbuttresses generally count as the \u2018Central Gullies\u2019.\nThe climbing is fairly sustained, through ice\ncouloirs and icefields, until easier 45 degree\nslopes lead to the icecliffs. Depending on the\nstate of the cliffs, find a route through them to\nthe summit. More recently the cliffs have ablated\nback to a slightly protruding shield, but this may\nchange again in the future.", "ascent": "Bill Denz, Peter Gough, Etienne Kummer, Nov 1972." }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki/main-divide/mt-hicks/south-face/logans-run", "name": "Logan\u2019s Run", "grade": "6+,V,6+", "topo_ref": "3.56", "image": null, "images": [], "length": "0m", "pitches": [ { "alpine": "6+", "commitment": "V", "mtcook": "6+", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": null } ], "quality": 1, "bolts": "0", "natural_pro": false, "description": "One of the stand-out lines on the face,\ninvolving steep and sustained climbing up to\nWI4 and M5. From the edge of the Central\nGullies, climb the upper of the t wo major\nvertical couloirs which run up the left side of\nthe R ight Buttress. If sections are devoid of ice,\nthen it is possible to dry-tool/aid climb through\nthem. Near the top of the couloir it is possible\nto traverse onto the crest of the buttress. Finish\nup the Right Buttress route, or rappel off.\nThere is some fixed gear, but it would be\nunwise to trust or rely on it. In 1985, Nick\nCradock and Kevin Boekholt eliminated the\naid used in the first ascent and completed the\ntop of the route, which is where the \u2018Logan\u2019s\nRetreat\u2019 jibe came from (check out the old\njournals for more).", "ascent": "Kim Logan, Pete Sinclair, Dec 1983." }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki/main-divide/mt-hicks/south-face/tingler", "name": "Tingler", "grade": "6+,IV,6+", "topo_ref": "3.57", "image": null, "images": [], "length": "0m", "pitches": [ { "alpine": "6+", "commitment": "IV", "mtcook": "6+", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": null } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": "0", "natural_pro": false, "description": "Ascend the lower of the two major vertical\ncouloirs on the left side of the Right Buttress.\nFive or six pitches of very steep, mixed ice and\nrock lead onto the Right Buttress. The second\npitch is the crux with a small overhung section\nof ice. This is a shorter, good hard technical\nroute, without the commitment of the routes on\nthe main face. It is straightforward to abseil.", "ascent": "Dave Fearnley, John McCallum, October 1987" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki/main-divide/mt-hicks/south-face/right-buttress", "name": "Right Buttress", "grade": "14,5,V,5", "topo_ref": "3.58", "image": null, "images": [], "length": "0m", "pitches": [ { "alpine": "5", "commitment": "V", "mtcook": "5", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": "14", "description": "Avoid the first 60m by using the icefield on the right. Traverse onto the crest of the buttress then directly up on or right of the crest (crux 14). Then head up the icefields and through the icecliffs." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": "0", "natural_pro": false, "description": "Avoid the first 60m by using the icefield on the\nright. Traverse onto the crest of the buttress then\ndirectly up on or right of the crest (crux 14). Then\nhead up the icefields and through the icecliffs.", "ascent": "Graeme Dingle, Noel Sissons, Dec 1972." }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki/main-divide/mt-hicks/south-face/ice-trek", "name": "Ice Trek", "grade": "5,IV", "topo_ref": "3.59", "image": null, "images": [], "length": "0m", "pitches": [ { "alpine": "5", "commitment": "IV", "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": true, "ewbank": null, "description": null } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": "0", "natural_pro": true, "description": "A good one if ice conditions are on (not threatened by ice cliffs) and you feel like something slightly harder than Route 3.60. Links the ice sections of the bluffs on the right side of the Right Buttress. The first ascentionists abseiled the route after gaining the top of the buttress.", "ascent": "Marty Beare , Pat Deavoll August 2002" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki/main-divide/mt-hicks/south-face/right-icefields", "name": "Right Icefields", "grade": "4+,IV,5", "topo_ref": "3.60", "image": null, "images": [], "length": "350m", "pitches": [ { "alpine": "4+", "commitment": "IV", "mtcook": "5", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": "350m", "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "Climb through the bottom cliffs which usually have two pitches of hard climbing, then up a sustained shield of ice. There are a number of variations. [6-7 pitches to the ridge , approx 8 x 60m abseils.]" } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": "0", "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Mick Browne, Keith Woodford, Nov 1972." } ], "places": [], "image": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/wide/public/image/ATP%20Aoraki%20Tai%20Poutini%20%20Hicks%20left%20pic%20page%20%28low%20res%29.jpg?itok=mFA0yqgz", "images": [ { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/wide/public/image/ATP%20Aoraki%20Tai%20Poutini%20%20Hicks%20left%20pic%20page%20%28low%20res%29.jpg?itok=mFA0yqgz", "height": "719", "width": "801" }, { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/wide/public/2023-10/ATP%20Book_Pg%20124%20Hicks.jpg?itok=-xCeXvd3", "height": "759", "width": "1090" } ] }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki/main-divide/mt-hicks/north-face", "name": "North Face", "altitude": null, "access": "Usually accessed via the Harper Saddle but sometimes via Clarke Saddle from Plateau", "description": "The face above the La Perouse Glacier.", "latlng": null, "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki/main-divide/mt-hicks/north-face/left-buttress", "name": "Left Buttress", "grade": "15,5+,VI,5+", "topo_ref": "13.22", "image": null, "images": [], "length": "0m", "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "5+", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": "15", "description": "Head up the obvious large five pitch corner on the right side of buttress,\r\navoiding the roof by taking the right variant corner. 200m of easy climbing leads to a steep wall (crux 15) followed by easier climbing as the buttress lies back." }, { "alpine": "5+", "commitment": "VI", "mtcook": "5+", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": "15", "description": null } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": "0", "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "David Elphick, Barry Smith, Feb 1957 (avoided first five pitches)." }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki/main-divide/mt-hicks/north-face/weeping-gash", "name": "Weeping Gash", "grade": "5+,VII,6+", "topo_ref": "13.23", "image": null, "images": [], "length": "0m", "pitches": [ { "alpine": "5+", "commitment": "VII", "mtcook": "6+", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "The gully between the Left and Central Buttresses. A startlingly steep\r\ncouloir with frequent crux walls. Climbed in winter when the ice is solid. Required two bivvies. Unrepeated." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": "0", "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Nick Cradock, Guy Cotter, Jul 1986." }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki/main-divide/mt-hicks/north-face/central-buttress", "name": "Central Buttress", "grade": "15,5,VII,6", "topo_ref": "13.24", "image": null, "images": [], "length": "0m", "pitches": [ { "alpine": "5", "commitment": "VII", "mtcook": "6", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": "15", "description": "Start up a crack on a small block below the main buttress, then goes right off a ledge and into the obvious groove that takes you right up the climb. Hardest at the bottom (crux grade 15) except for a slight sting at the top. With glacial recession there may be another pitch at the bottom which is harder than 15. Good rock and classic climbing." } ], "quality": 1, "bolts": "0", "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Bill Denz, Phil Herron, Murray Judge, Jun 1974." }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki/main-divide/mt-hicks/north-face/central-buttress-variant-monks-sunderland", "name": "Central Buttress variant: Monks -Sunderland", "grade": "20,6,VII", "topo_ref": "13.24i", "image": null, "images": [], "length": "750m", "pitches": [ { "alpine": "6", "commitment": "VII", "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": "750m", "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": "20", "description": "Follow an obvious system of cracks parallel to and left of the crest of the buttress until joining the original route starts to ease. Sustained climbing with two harder pitches of grade 18-20. Good rock although shattered in places." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": "0", "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "S.Monks & N.Sunderland, Feb 1996." }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki/main-divide/mt-hicks/north-face/central-buttress-variant-mcauley-wong", "name": "Central Buttress variant: McAuley -Wong", "grade": "18,6,VII", "topo_ref": "13.24ii", "image": null, "images": [], "length": "750m", "pitches": [ { "alpine": "6", "commitment": "VII", "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": "750m", "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": "18", "description": "Follow the original route for 3-4 pitches, then move right just before a widening chimney with an overhanging start. Continue 15m along ledge to steep crack system (~18). The route runs along the nose of buttress parallel to and right of the original route, rejoining it after 8 pitches." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": "0", "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Andrew McAuley, Vera Wong, 1996." }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki/main-divide/mt-hicks/north-face/right-buttress", "name": "Right Buttress", "grade": "17,6,VII,6+", "topo_ref": "13.25", "image": null, "images": [], "length": "750m", "pitches": [ { "alpine": "6", "commitment": "VII", "mtcook": "6+", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": "750m", "bolts": null, "trad": true, "ewbank": "17", "description": "Start up steep dark-coloured chimneys to the right of the prominent gully keeping left of the bottom. The first six pitches are sustained (crux 17), on excellent rock. The next eight pitches are easier and on good rock. Higher still the climbing becomes more broken." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": "0", "natural_pro": true, "description": null, "ascent": "Merv English, John Fantini, Noel Sissons, Jan 1975." }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki/main-divide/mt-hicks/north-face/book-days", "name": "Book of Days", "grade": "17,5,VII,5+", "topo_ref": "13.26", "image": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/2023-10/Hicks%20NF%20Book%20of%20Days%20V2.English.jpg?itok=eTMsmX89", "images": [ { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/2023-10/Hicks%20NF%20Book%20of%20Days%20V2.English.jpg?itok=eTMsmX89", "height": "244", "width": "325" } ], "length": "650m", "pitches": [ { "alpine": "5", "commitment": "VII", "mtcook": "5+", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": "650m", "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": "17", "description": "Next rock rib right of Right Buttress. Access is via snow slopes and a gully, which ends in a cul-de-sac, beside the Right Buttress (face between these routes was climbed by Marty Beare and Lindsay Main). Climb a ramp right of corner to gain the crest of a rib. Follow crest to a striking red tower. Continue on the crest to summit. The first pitch (crux 17) is followed by sustained climbing on solid red rock, which rarely relents. Thirteen pitches." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": "0", "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Bill McLeod, Mark Taylor, July 1992" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki/main-divide/mt-hicks/north-face/north-rib-aka-biscuit-tin-route", "name": "North Rib aka Biscuit Tin Route", "grade": "15,4,VI,4-", "topo_ref": "13.27", "image": null, "images": [], "length": "500m", "pitches": [ { "alpine": "4", "commitment": "VI", "mtcook": "4-", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": "500m", "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": "15", "description": null } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": "0", "natural_pro": false, "description": "From Access Route 13F, climb good rock on the face to the right of the rib, following the line of least resistance onto the rib itself. The rib steepens towards the top (crux 14-15). Then follow a flattening ridge for 250m to join the summit ridge at the top of the couloir on Route 3.37.", "ascent": "P Barry, D Drake, Peter Gough, Aat Vervoorn, Nov 1969" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki/main-divide/mt-hicks/north-face/red-wall", "name": "Red Wall", "grade": "4+,V,4", "topo_ref": "13.28", "image": null, "images": [], "length": "0m", "pitches": [ { "alpine": "4+", "commitment": "V", "mtcook": "4", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": null } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": "0", "natural_pro": false, "description": "An eight-pitch route up red rock to the left of the couloir on Route 3.37, finishing high on the North Rib.", "ascent": "Mark Inglis,Richard Pears. Dec 1980" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki/main-divide/mt-hicks/north-face/north-west-ridge", "name": "North West Ridge", "grade": "3+,V", "topo_ref": "13.29", "image": null, "images": [], "length": "0m", "pitches": [ { "alpine": "3+", "commitment": "V", "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": null } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": "0", "natural_pro": false, "description": "The upper section of the North West Ridge (used on the first ascent of Hicks) fell away sometime in the late 1940s, revealing a large expanse of rotten rock that frequently rattles down a prominent corner known as \u2018The Curtain\u2019. Climbing in this area would currently be unpleasant and dangerous. For information on the Standard Route on Hicks, refer to Route 3.37.", "ascent": "Alec Graham, Robert Low, Henry Newton, Feb 1906" } ], "places": [], "image": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/wide/public/2023-10/Mt%20Hicks%20-North%20Face.png?itok=eLQG_NMF", "images": [ { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/wide/public/2023-10/Mt%20Hicks%20-North%20Face.png?itok=eLQG_NMF", "height": "822", "width": "1090" }, { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/wide/public/2023-10/Hicks%20N.F%20WInter%20conditions%20English.jpg?itok=NO3vmaKx", "height": "818", "width": "1090" } ] } ], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki/main-divide/mt-graham": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki/main-divide/mt-graham", "name": "Mt Graham", "altitude": "3184m", "access": null, "description": null, "latlng": [ "-43.573632", "170.150863" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki/main-divide/mt-graham/main-divide", "name": "Main Divide", "grade": null, "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "A straightforward climb from either Mt Teichelmann or Silberhorn." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Dan Bryant, Lud Mahan, Jan 1933." }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki/main-divide/mt-graham/graham-spur", "name": "Graham Spur", "grade": "3+", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "3+", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "From the Linda Glacier move leftwards (the route may change owing to glacier movements) onto the spur. Then head up the spur until 100m below the top where the route moves right up the final steep 50m of ice onto the ridge just north of the summit." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Paul Bieleski, A W Bowden, V R McGregor, Richard Tornquist, Dec 1962." }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki/main-divide/mt-graham/balfour-glacier", "name": "From the Balfour Glacier.", "grade": null, "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "An easy snow climb." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": null } ], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki-tai-poutini/fox-range/torres-pk": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki-tai-poutini/fox-range/torres-pk", "name": "Torres Pk", "altitude": "3160m", "access": null, "description": null, "latlng": [ "-43.559971", "170.146461" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki-tai-poutini/fox-range/torres-pk/torres-tasman-col", "name": "Torres-Tasman Col", "grade": "4,V", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": "4", "commitment": "V", "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": null } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": "A short route of steep snow and ice, which unfortunately tends to act as a funnel for any rubbish falling from the surrounding slopes. Used as a descent by the first party. Stay away.", "ascent": "Rob Rainsbury, John Visser, January 1971" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki-tai-poutini/fox-range/torres-pk/north-west-ridge", "name": "North West Ridge", "grade": "3+,III", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": "3+", "commitment": "III", "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": null } ], "quality": 1, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": "Access onto the ridge varies. Starting from Katies Col, ascents have been made on the northern side of the lower buttress (the first ascent in 1907) and up the ridge itself from the col. The easiest routes, though, involve skirting round onto the snowfields above the Balfour Glacier and either ascending a snow slope onto the ridge above the first step, or ascending the first prominent rib falling south-west from the ridge. Then follow the winding ar\u00eate and rock steps to the summit.", "ascent": "Alex Graham, Henry Newton, Ebenezer Teichelmann, February 1907" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki-tai-poutini/fox-range/torres-pk/degrees-illness", "name": "Degrees of Illness", "grade": "4+,III", "topo_ref": null, "image": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/route/P1000482.jpg?itok=fFepevB1", "images": [ { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/route/P1000482.jpg?itok=fFepevB1", "height": "325", "width": "244" } ], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": "4+", "commitment": "III", "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": null } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": "Begins from the upper true right of the large snowfield before the West Rib, from the Balfour Glacier. Ice bulges on the first two pitches provide the crux, and then the climbing is progressively easier. A satisfying sixth pitch takes a narrow, right-trending ledge through the steep headwall. Tops out low on the West Ridge.", "ascent": "Brendan Maggs, Kirill Talanine, August 2012" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki-tai-poutini/fox-range/torres-pk/torres-forres", "name": "Torres Forres", "grade": "4,IV", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": "4", "commitment": "IV", "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": null } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": "Gain the suspended snowfield left of the West Rib, starting from the upper left corner of the snowfield. The gully turns right to join the top of the West Rib.", "ascent": "Guy McKinnon, Mark Scott, John Taylor, February 1997" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki-tai-poutini/fox-range/torres-pk/west-rib", "name": "West Rib", "grade": "3+,IV", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": "3+", "commitment": "IV", "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": null } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": "This is the second rib across from Katies Col, with the distinctive notch near the base that is commonly used for access to the Balfour Neve. Ascend the glacier on the Katies Col side of the rib until confronted by a 200m rock step. Climb the step near the crest (crux) and follow the snow ar\u00eate to the summit.", "ascent": "Alan Berry, J M H Davie, I R Wood, Hugh Tyndale-Biscoe, January 1954" } ], "places": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki-tai-poutini/fox-range/torres-pk/north-east-face", "name": "North East Face", "altitude": null, "access": null, "description": null, "latlng": null, "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki-tai-poutini/fox-range/torres-pk/north-east-face/southern-traverse", "name": "Southern Traverse", "grade": "5,VI", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": "5", "commitment": "VI", "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": null } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": "Climbs the first five pitches of God\u2019s Zone and (due to warm conditions on the day) another seven pitches initially via ice further right and then a traverse left to a rock buttress on the upper half of the face.", "ascent": "Pat Gray, Alastair McDowell, September 2021" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki-tai-poutini/fox-range/torres-pk/north-east-face/god%E2%80%99s-zone", "name": "God\u2019s Zone", "grade": "6+,VI,M4", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": "6+", "commitment": "VI", "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": "M4", "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": null } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": "A steep sustained route packed full of quality technical climbing. The ice runnels are hard to spot from the glacier, so it may require a \u2018we\u2019ll go and see\u2019 attitude. The rock is good, and retreat would be possible off rock gear. Start at the top of the snowfield in the middle of the face. There were two bivvies on the first ascent. The route is longer and more sustained than most routes on the south face of Hicks. There is a lot of good-looking unclimbed terrain further left.", "ascent": "Craig Jefferies, Alan Uren, July 2004" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki-tai-poutini/fox-range/torres-pk/north-east-face/land-bridge", "name": "Land Bridge", "grade": "5,V", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": "5", "commitment": "V", "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": null } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": "From the Abel Janszoon Glacier, ascend steep, loose rock and steep snowfields (which may not exist later in summer) to reach the ridge 200m west of the summit.", "ascent": "Bill Denz, Geoff Gabites, Mike Perry, August 1977" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki-tai-poutini/fox-range/torres-pk/north-east-face/north-east-couloir", "name": "North East Couloir", "grade": "3+,IV", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": "3+", "commitment": "IV", "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": null } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": "A relatively straightforward route involving 200m of snow, a 70m leftward traverse, and then a couloir to the summit ridge. Bill Denz commented it was one of the best and quickest ways up or down Torres. A good descent route, usually involving two abseils and downclimbing. The first party on the route used it as a descent.", "ascent": "Alan Berry, J M Davie, Hugh Tyndale-Biscoe, I R Wood, January 1954" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki-tai-poutini/fox-range/torres-pk/north-east-face/red-rib", "name": "Red Rib", "grade": "4,III", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": "4", "commitment": "III", "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": null } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": "Start up the low ridge that separates the north-east face and the north face, up the rib above, then cross the gully to the left to finish up the Red Rib \u2013 next to the North East Couloir. Both rock sections consist of good rock, with a 20m gendarme a third of the way up.", "ascent": "A Abrahams, J Hough, M Kirby, C Schaap, March 1968" } ], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki-tai-poutini/fox-range/torres-pk/north-face", "name": "North Face", "altitude": null, "access": null, "description": "The apex of this face is at about 3000m on the west ridge.", "latlng": null, "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki-tai-poutini/fox-range/torres-pk/north-face/coberger-route", "name": "Coberger Route", "grade": "3+,III", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": "3+", "commitment": "III", "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": null } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": "This route ascends the bluffs from the snowfields above the Abel Janszoon Glacier and joins the Red Rib.", "ascent": "Anton Coberger, Oscar Coberger, January 1950" } ], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki-tai-poutini/fox-range/torres-pk/south-face", "name": "South Face", "altitude": null, "access": null, "description": null, "latlng": null, "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki/fox-range/torres-peak/south-face/lost-translation", "name": "Lost in Translation", "grade": "6+,IV,WI5,M5", "topo_ref": null, "image": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/route/lit.jpg?itok=cNjZF_Kc", "images": [ { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/route/lit.jpg?itok=cNjZF_Kc", "height": "183", "width": "325" } ], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": "6+", "commitment": "IV", "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": "WI5", "mixed": "M5", "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": null } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": "This route is on the south side of the West Rib, starting just left of a prominent snow and ice gully, and topping out at a prominent point at the lower end of the level section on the West Rib. Six steep pitches of iced and mixed climbing (WI4, WI3+, WI3+, WI5, WI3, M5). Descend the lower West Rib route.", "ascent": "Alex Corpas, Daniel Joll, June 2012" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki/fox-range/torres-peak/south-face/left-buttress", "name": "Left Buttress", "grade": "4,V", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": "4", "commitment": "V", "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": null } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": "Begin up the base of the prominent snow and ice gully about 250m right of the access gully at the base of the West Rib, and then move right across a diagonal snow slope to gain the buttress. Climb up through mixed ground and then cut left through a rotten rock band onto the snow and ice crest of the upper West Rib, which is followed to the summit.", "ascent": "Dave Bamford, John Nankervis, Ian Whitehouse, Brin Williman, January 1980" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki/fox-range/torres-peak/south-face/man-head-office-who-found-it-harder-get-get-direct", "name": "The Man from Head Office Who Found It Harder to Get Off Than to Get Up Direct", "grade": "5,V", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": "5", "commitment": "V", "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": null } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": "Ascend the major gully as for The Man from Head Office and then break left and climb steep ice directly to the summit.", "ascent": "Russell Braddock, Andy Harris, September 1984" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki/fox-range/torres-peak/south-face/man-head-office-who-found-it-harder-get-get", "name": "The Man from Head Office Who Found It Harder to Get Off Than to Get Up", "grade": "4,V", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": "4", "commitment": "V", "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": null } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": "Ascend the major gully that separates the left and right buttresses, beginning directly below the summit. A series of ice steps in the lower part of the gully are followed by snow and ice slopes leading right onto the Torres-Tasman Ridge near the summit of Torres.", "ascent": "Dave Bamford, Russell Braddock, Andy Harris, John Nankervis, October 1983" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki/fox-range/torres-peak/south-face/right-buttress", "name": "Right Buttress", "grade": "4,V", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": "4", "commitment": "V", "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": null } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": "Start up steep rock in the centre of the buttress, which after three rope lengths eases back and leads on to a snow and ice rib curving up to the Tasman-Torres ridge.", "ascent": "Dave Bamford, Keith Woodford, December 1978" } ], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] } ], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki/main-divide/mt-sefton": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki/main-divide/mt-sefton", "name": "Mt Sefton", "altitude": "3151m", "access": null, "description": null, "latlng": [ "-43.68309509", "170.04249049" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki/main-divide/mt-sefton/frind-route", "name": "Frind Route", "grade": "3+", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "3+", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "From the Frind Glacier, head up a gully onto a rock rib north of the Ngaroimata Falls, gaining height to reach the Donne Glacier. From here ascend northwards across the glacier under Sharks Teeth to reach Brunner Col. Cross the Col and drop onto the west side. Exposed and avalanche prone slopes under Brunner then give access to the Douglas N\u00e9v\u00e9. From here ascend either the upper South Ridge or cross the n\u00e9v\u00e9 to the West Ridge." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Otto Frind, Conrad Kain, Dick Young, Mar 1914." }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki/main-divide/mt-sefton/south-ridge", "name": "South Ridge", "grade": "4", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "4", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "From Brunner Col traverse Mt Brunner onto the ridge. Ascend a prominent step and head on up a blocky rock ridge to a snow peak. Descend to a small col, then climb a steep rock buttress (traversable on the west), follow a snow ar\u00eate and up a final step to the South Summit." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Stu Allan, Olly McCahon, Rob Rowlands, Brin Williman, Jan 1971." }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki/main-divide/mt-sefton/east-ridge", "name": "East Ridge", "grade": "4", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "4", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "From Sefton Bivvy climb up and along under the Footstool Ridge. Crevasses may give trouble here. Then either climb directly or up the ar\u00eate to Tuckett Col. From the Col ascend three prominent steps in the ridge to the summit. The rock is appallingly loose in the lower sections, but improves towards the top. Used on the first ascent of Sefton. In 1924 Frank Milne and Harold Porter ascended and descended the ridge in four hours. Now rarely climbed because of the poor rock." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Edward FitzGerald, Mattias Zurbriggen, Feb 1895." }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki/main-divide/mt-sefton/north-ridge", "name": "North Ridge", "grade": "14,3+,V", "topo_ref": null, "image": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/route/GOPR0732.JPG?itok=D3I4f6gu", "images": [ { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/route/GOPR0732.JPG?itok=D3I4f6gu", "height": "244", "width": "325" }, { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/route/WP_20160409_17_20_27_Pro.jpg?itok=zTYCLcDr", "height": "183", "width": "325" } ], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": "3+", "commitment": "V", "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": "14", "description": null } ], "quality": 3, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": "A magnificent climb involving 2400m of height gain from Douglas Rock Hut.\nFrom the hut, travel 20-30min up the Copland track, then climb scree and avalanche debris nest to the Jasper Glacier Stream. Ascend the slabs true right of the stream (don't drift true left on the slabs or you'll get dizzy), which merge into easier angled scree at about 1600m (bivy sites possible before the ridge proper), and then gain the crest of the north ridge. Above here are three prominent rock buttresses, which are generally broad, with several route possibilities. The rock 'isn't bad'. The climbing mostly involves exposed scrambling with some short steps. The true ridge offers the easiest climbing through the buttresses with difficulties often overcome on the east side. Most parties appreciate using a rope, in at least one location. (An alpine rack of 5 nuts and 3-4 cams is often sufficient with good route finding).\nAbove the buttress, the ridge flattens out (another good bivy site) before merging into a glacial bulge. There is sometimes an icecliff here. Above the icecliffs, ascend a vague snow rib to reach a shelf just below the summit. Follow your nose to the top.\nConfidence in climbing un-roped on exposed ground for the majority of this route is required. It is too long to pitch the whole route. The FA party completed the route within a day return to Douglas rock. It has more recently been completed in two days from the road end.\nBeware - tales of epic retreats abound, including rapping off the leashes of ice-axes when getting low on gear to leave behind.\nDescent is usually via Welcome Pass to Scott Creek or Bluewater route. (Scott Creek may be a preferable descent if you can find the single bolt rappels).", "ascent": "Bruce Harrison, Nick Von Tunzelmann, Aat Vervoorn, Dec 1964." }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki/main-divide/mt-sefton/scott-creekwest-ridge", "name": "Scott Creek/West Ridge", "grade": "2+", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "2+", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "The West Ridge of Mt Sefton from the Douglas N\u00e9v\u00e9 is a relatively straight forward 500m climb and is commonly used as a descent route. To reach the n\u00e9v\u00e9 from the Copland Valley, the best route lies up Scott Creek. Surmount the waterfall on the western side (true L) using vegetated ledges and follow the creek, up and up, trending left. Beyond the bushline a rounded spur on the left can be gained (there are cairn-marked bivvy rocks and a stream in a small vegetated valley just north of the rounded spur) which ascends to a steeper craggy section followed by snowbasins. These in turn lead onto the ridge separating the Scott and Tekano Glaciers. Cross the Tekano N\u00e9v\u00e9 (watch for wet snow!) and ascend to Welcome Pass (2390m). From here follow the Sierra Range to where the West Ridge begins. Alternatively, from Welcome Pass use the Douglas N\u00e9v\u00e9 to access the West Ridge where it steepens. Beware of mist. Bivvying on Welcome Pass makes the summit day easier." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Jack Clarke, Laurence Earle, Alex Graham, Bernard Head, Mar 1912." }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki/main-divide/mt-sefton/bluewater-route-welcome-pass", "name": "Bluewater Route to Welcome Pass", "grade": null, "topo_ref": null, "image": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/route/bluewater%20route_Ink_LI.jpg?itok=ZUTtN0VD", "images": [ { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/route/bluewater%20route_Ink_LI.jpg?itok=ZUTtN0VD", "height": "325", "width": "318" }, { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/routes/Bluewater%20route%202022_23.jpg?itok=3Qp2faDK", "height": "244", "width": "325" }, { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/routes/track%20to%20left%20of%20cairns%20on%20true%20left%20of%20Scott%20creek.jpg?itok=a26W6QU-", "height": "244", "width": "325" } ], "length": null, "pitches": [], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": "This is currently the recommended route to Welcome Pass, as it avoids the\nwaterfalls of the Scott Creek Route and involves a pleasant variety of bush,\ntussock, rock, and snow travel. A route has been cut and marked all the way\nfrom Scott Creek to the bushline. It was easy to follow in early 2016, and has been newly recut and marked with white permalat markers with a red strip in the summer of 2022/23. (A pair of loppers is left in the bush at the top end if more bush cutting is required).\nCare should be taken to find the beginning of the route. It begins on a\nbush-covered terrace 20m above Scott Creek on the true right bank, at about\n580m, where a small stream (shown on the topomap) flows across the terrace.\nThis is referred to here as \u2018Point A\u2019 and is roughly located at about\nBX15 563 631. The stream enters Scott Creek on the true right below a massive, moss-covered boulder. Depending on conditions, it might be possible to follow the creek up to Point A.\nAccess to Point A from the Scott Creek bed varies seasonally due to massive\navalanches in winter and spring that modify the shape of the creek bed and\nits high, steep bank. The marked route begins from a small open\nterrace 20m further upstream at about 600m \u2013 two cairns mark the route out of Scott Creek and onto the terrace. Permalat markers start on the upper end of the terrace, and a large white permalat X marks the start of the track at the top of the terrace. From there the track loops back on itself and goes back down to Point A. In summer 2022 the track is very well marked in both directions, freshly cut, and easily identifiable.\nFrom Point A, on the true right of the side stream, the route climbs steeply,\nveering away from the stream with increasing height. Stick to the marked\nroute. Good travel up through rata/podocarp forest, and then mountain\nneinei/dracophyllum forest leads to the bushline at 1080m. At 1140m,\nthere\u2019s a two-minute detour to a spectacular viewpoint over the Bluewater\nbasin. The marked route continues to the top of the scrub at 1300m with warratahs, and then cairns that follow up the obvious slide that goes straight to the bottom of the cliffs of point 1800.\nFollow animal trails along the base\nof the prominent cliffs. This leads to the final basin below the saddle\nbetween Pt 1800m and Pt 1784m (Bluewater Saddle), which is reached via gravel\nslopes and rock ledges.\nFrom Bluewater Saddle, drop 20m on the Tekano side, and then traverse and\nclimb back onto the ridge south of Pt 1800m. Follow this ridge south for\nabout one kilometre, and then ascend on a rising traverse across the Tekano\nn\u00e9v\u00e9 \u2013 watch for crevasses and soft afternoon snow \u2013 to Welcome Pass.\nIn the reverse direction: when descending below the bluffs, if you overshoot\nthe large boulder at 1300m [BX15 573 622], you should encounter an old slip\nwith regenerating scrub which leads into the stream marked on the map\nbeginning at about BX15 572 624. This can be followed down to about 860m,\nwhere there is a short section of pink tape that leads away from the stream\nback to the main Bluewater Route. There is a small flat in this stream at\nabout 900m which is large enough for one tent.\nThe Bluewater Route through the bush has been used by hunters for some time.\nThe first recorded use of the full route as a descent from Welcome Pass was\nby Danilo Hegg and George O\u2019Sullivan, Jan 2010. The first recorded climb of\nMt Sefton using this route was by Nina Dickerhof and James Thornton in Nov\n2015", "ascent": null } ], "places": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/main-divide-of-the-southern-alps/mt-sefton/east-face", "name": "East Face", "altitude": null, "access": null, "description": "This can be climbed in number of ways: either by the Direct Route or For Whom the Bell Tolls, from the Mueller Glacier, or via Sefton Bivvy and across the slopes under the Footstool Ridge, which gives access to the lower and upper Shelf Glacier.", "latlng": null, "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/main-divide-of-the-southern-alps/mt-sefton/east-face/direct-route", "name": "Direct Route", "grade": "4+", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "4+", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "Scale scree and bluffs above the Mueller Glacier, to reach the lower Shelf Glacier, beneath and just north of the prominent cliffs of the upper Shelf Glacier. Ascend the lower Shelf Glacier onto a snow face below and to the right of the icecliffs. Use the snow face to reach an ar\u00eate on the right hand edge of the upper Shelf. At this point the two access routes from Sefton Bivvy join." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Ross Gooder, Murray Jones, John Stanton, January 1971" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/main-divide-of-the-southern-alps/mt-sefton/east-face/whom-bell-tolls", "name": "For Whom The Bell Tolls", "grade": "14,V,5", "topo_ref": null, "image": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/route/SeftonRed.jpg?itok=COPtP90Y", "images": [ { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/route/SeftonRed.jpg?itok=COPtP90Y", "height": "230", "width": "325" } ], "length": "2000m", "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": "V", "mtcook": "5", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": "2000m", "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": "14", "description": null } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": "A direct 2000m line from the Mueller Glacier moraine to the unnamed peak\nsouth of Sefton, deviating around some big crevasses on the upper shelf. The\nlower shelf was reached by climbing a loose 70\u00ba moraine wall. This could be\navoided by walking up the lower Shelf Glacier instead.", "ascent": "Peter Dickson, January 1990 freesolo" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/main-divide-of-the-southern-alps/mt-sefton/east-face/ramp", "name": "The Ramp", "grade": "4+", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "4+", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "On the upper face. Drop onto the upper Shelf and head out on the prominent ramp angling onto the upper South Ridge." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Bryan & Noel Sissons, July 1971" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/main-divide-of-the-southern-alps/mt-sefton/east-face/goldsmith-route", "name": "Goldsmith Route", "grade": null, "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "On the upper face. Up a short couloir onto snowslopes leading onto the South Summit." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Kobi Bosshard, Mike Goldsmith, Fritz Schaumberg, January 1963" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/main-divide-of-the-southern-alps/mt-sefton/east-face/direct", "name": "Direct", "grade": "4", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "4", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "On the upper face. Straight up the couloir dropping beneath the two summits. A number of leaders have experienced falls here!" } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Peter Gough, George Harris, December 1967" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/main-divide-of-the-southern-alps/mt-sefton/east-face/triple-direct", "name": "Triple Direct", "grade": "5", "topo_ref": null, "image": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/route/GM_Triple_Direct.jpg?itok=VnNtOo59", "images": [ { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/route/GM_Triple_Direct.jpg?itok=VnNtOo59", "height": "325", "width": "244" } ], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "5", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": null } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Guy McKinnon, 8 Feb 2013" } ], "places": [], "image": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/wide/public/image/For%20Who%20the%20bell%20Tolls.jpg?itok=2x_ZyBU4", "images": [ { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/wide/public/image/For%20Who%20the%20bell%20Tolls.jpg?itok=2x_ZyBU4", "height": "510", "width": "720" } ] }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki/main-divide/mt-sefton/north-face", "name": "North Face", "altitude": null, "access": "The access used on the F.A of this face was via Sefton Bivy and Tuckett Col.", "description": "The North Face of Sefton overlooks the Copland Valley and is bounded by the East Ridge on the left and the classic North Ridge on the right.", "latlng": null, "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/main-divide-of-the-southern-alps/mt-sefton/north-face/kiss-spiderwoman", "name": "Kiss of the Spiderwoman", "grade": "VI,4+", "topo_ref": null, "image": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/route/Kiss%20of%20the%20Spiderwoman%201.%20sefton_0.jpg?itok=WmksDhVr", "images": [ { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/route/Kiss%20of%20the%20Spiderwoman%201.%20sefton_0.jpg?itok=WmksDhVr", "height": "244", "width": "325" }, { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/route/Kiss%20of%20the%20Spiderwoman%202%20Sefton.jpg?itok=wE4uMGte", "height": "244", "width": "325" } ], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": "VI", "mtcook": "4+", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "Access to this face is probably best from the east, crossing Tuckett Col (see East Ridge Route ). Ascend a snow ramp right towards the centre of the face, then straight up on left towards the East Ridge and break out onto a shelf some 180 metres from the summit." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": "The ice cliffs may not have been as prominent in 1988.", "ascent": "Steve Elder, 20 November 1987" } ], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] } ], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki/main-divide/lendenfeld-pk": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki/main-divide/lendenfeld-pk", "name": "Lendenfeld Pk", "altitude": "3149m", "access": null, "description": null, "latlng": [ "-43.559823", "170.1696408" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki/main-divide/lendenfeld-pk/east-face", "name": "East Face", "grade": "3+", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "3+", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "From the n\u00e9v\u00e9 between Syme Ridge and Mt Dixon climb directly to the summit detouring where icecliffs dictate." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "(Possibly) Rob Rainsbury, Dick Strong, Keith Thompson, John Visser, Dec 1970." }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki/main-divide/lendenfeld-pk/marcel-col", "name": "From Marcel Col", "grade": "2,III,2", "topo_ref": "11.112", "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": "2", "commitment": "III", "mtcook": "2", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "From Marcel Col, the route is straightforward on moderate snow slopes, although hard ice can form easily here, especially in winter. You\u2019ll also find good evidence of climate change here: a large gap is starting to form about halfway up the ridge and soon we may see exposed rock, which will make this route more difficult. A sad sign of the times.\r\nThis is the most common way to access Engineer Col and the North Shoulder of Tasman. It\u2019s also the recommended descent route, but beware of the cornice that sometimes form on the summit of Lendenfeld." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Alex Graham, Henry Newton, Feb 1907." }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki/main-divide/lendenfeld-pk/aurora-australis", "name": "Aurora Australis", "grade": "3,III,3", "topo_ref": "11.113", "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": "3", "commitment": "III", "mtcook": "3", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "Gain the large snow shelf left of Hamilton-Berry Rib by a short rock/mixed step. Ascend to the top left end of the snow shelf through a mixed gully to the summit ice cap." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Andrew McAuley, Andrew Corvini, Feb 1992." }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki/main-divide/lendenfeld-pk/north-gully", "name": "North Gully", "grade": "3+,III", "topo_ref": "11.114", "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": "3+", "commitment": "III", "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": null } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": "Follow the chimney immediately left of Hamilton-Berry Rib, or mixed ground either side of the gully. Six rope lengths to the snowfield.", "ascent": "Stuart Hollaway, Alison Thompson, Jan 2005" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki/main-divide/lendenfeld-pk/hamilton-berry-rib", "name": "Hamilton-Berry Rib", "grade": "4,III,3+", "topo_ref": "11.115", "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": "4", "commitment": "III", "mtcook": "3+", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": null } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": "The bottom 200m provides steep, sound climbing up to grade 14. The rib then slowly relents to form a \u2018Giant\u2019s Staircase\u2019. A good, classic route.", "ascent": "Alan Berry, Neil Hamilton, Dec 1955." }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki/main-divide/lendenfeld-pk/midsummer-muntaneering", "name": "Midsummer Muntaneering", "grade": "15,3+,III,4+", "topo_ref": null, "image": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/routes/Lendt%203.jpg?itok=zKgQxJCw", "images": [ { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/routes/Lendt%203.jpg?itok=zKgQxJCw", "height": "244", "width": "325" }, { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/routes/ATP%20Lendenfeld%20%20%283%29_0.jpg?itok=Rnwt8T5T", "height": "215", "width": "325" } ], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": "3+", "commitment": "III", "mtcook": "4+", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": true, "ewbank": "15", "description": null } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": true, "description": "Probable new route between Hamilton Berry rib and NW rib.\nThis rock route takes the right hand visual profile as seen from Pioneer Hut.\nStart up snow just left of bottom of rib and cut onto rock at any convenience. Follow the rib traversing along pinnacles, chevals, loose sections, until the obvious black triangular wall is attained.\nThen traverse a rising ledge/ramp up the black wall from left to right. Finish straight up wide cracks or shallow chimney (crux 15). The route then merges with the upper section of the Hamilton Berry rib.\nThis is a challenging and interesting mountaineering route which requires some care, however it is not technical rock climb.", "ascent": "Peter Dickson, Lisa Wynne. December 2011" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki/main-divide/lendenfeld-pk/north-west-couloir", "name": "North West Couloir", "grade": "3,III,3", "topo_ref": "11.116", "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": "3", "commitment": "III", "mtcook": "3", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "Up the snow and ice gully between the two rock buttresses. This route may lack ice later in summer." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": "Up the snow and ice gully between the two rock buttresses. This route may lack snow/ice later in summer, making rockfall almost constant.", "ascent": "Merv English, Peter Hillary, Nena Ritchie, Jul 1978." }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki/main-divide/lendenfeld-pk/north-west-rib", "name": "North West Rib", "grade": "4,III,3+", "topo_ref": "11.117", "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": "4", "commitment": "III", "mtcook": "3+", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "Parallels the Hamilton-Berry Rib, with good climbing on slabs and ribs of excellent rock." } ], "quality": 1, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Dave Bamford, John Nankervis, Feb 1977." }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki/main-divide/lendenfeld-pk/adventure-philosophy", "name": "Adventure Philosophy", "grade": "4+,IV", "topo_ref": "11.118", "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": "4+", "commitment": "IV", "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": null } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": "Start up the gully on the left-hand side of the face until a ramp system is reached. Follow the ramp right until near the middle, then climb straight up to the summit. A few grade 13-14 pitches.", "ascent": null }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki/main-divide/lendenfeld-pk/mutant", "name": "The Mutant", "grade": "6,IV,6+", "topo_ref": "11.119", "image": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/route/lendenfeld%20mutant.jpg?itok=UEbTYQSY", "images": [ { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/route/lendenfeld%20mutant.jpg?itok=UEbTYQSY", "height": "325", "width": "245" } ], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": "6", "commitment": "IV", "mtcook": "6+", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": true, "ewbank": null, "description": null } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": true, "description": "This is the striking five pitch chimney in the middle of the face. In summer this is a great rock climb on a sunny face; in winter and spring it provides classic mixed and ice climbing with good rock protection. The second ascent team used a small amount of aid on the crux pitch, due to melting ice. From the top of the chimney, five more pitches take you to the summit. 9 pitches.\nTim Robinson, Allan Uren, Julian White, Nov 2007", "ascent": "F.A John McCartney, Andy McFarlane, summer 1995" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki/main-divide/lendenfeld-pk/west-face-direct", "name": "West Face Direct", "grade": "16,5+,IV,4", "topo_ref": "11.120", "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": "5+", "commitment": "IV", "mtcook": "4", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": "16", "description": null } ], "quality": 1, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": "A hard climb on excellent rock (sustained grade 15-16), commencing to the right of The Mutant chimney. \u2018Similar to, but harder than the South Face of Hicks\u2019 \u2013 Ken Hyslop.", "ascent": "Lindsay Bell, Don Bogie and Ken Hyslop" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki/main-divide/lendenfeld-pk/allen-williams", "name": "Allen-Williams", "grade": "5,IV", "topo_ref": "11.121", "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": "5", "commitment": "IV", "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": null } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": "Head up the gully to the right of the West Face Direct route until you can access a line that leads to a ledge system through the prominent ar\u00eate. Once on the face proper, continue up two more pitches to join the Direct.", "ascent": "John Allen, Zane Williams, November 1978" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki/main-divide/lendenfeld-pk/south-west-ridge", "name": "South West Ridge", "grade": "2,III,2", "topo_ref": "11.122", "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": "2", "commitment": "III", "mtcook": "2", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "Straightforward, but slightly threatened by avalanches off Mt Tasman. Glacier access can sometimes become cut off." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": "This ridge is usually used when traversing Lendenfeld en route to Tasman. Between the summit and the col the ridge is straightforward. Glacier access can sometimes become cut off.", "ascent": "Alex Graham, Henry Newton, Feb 1907 (Descended)." } ], "places": [], "image": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/wide/public/image/Whack%2520n%2520Dangle%2CNov%25202011%2CClaytons%2520photos%2520003%5B1%5D_0.JPG?itok=taSTKfjj", "images": [ { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/wide/public/image/Whack%2520n%2520Dangle%2CNov%25202011%2CClaytons%2520photos%2520003%5B1%5D_0.JPG?itok=taSTKfjj", "height": "487", "width": "900" }, { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/image/ATP%20Lendenfeld%20.jpg?itok=A-qvwZxN", "height": "215", "width": "325" }, { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/image/Haast-Lendenfeld.jpg?itok=sBf9CzPu", "height": "221", "width": "325" } ] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki/main-divide/mt-teichelmann-rakirua": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki/main-divide/mt-teichelmann-rakirua", "name": "Mt Teichelmann Rakirua", "altitude": "3144m", "access": null, "description": null, "latlng": [ "-43.57363689", "170.146778" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki/main-divide/mt-teichelmann-rakirua/south-west-face", "name": "South West Face", "grade": "5+", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "5+", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "Start up steep gullies at the bottom centre of the face. Two pitches of steep ice in these gullies are the crux. They can be avoided by traversing in from the right. Several pitches up steep icefields lead to steep gullies that run up to the South Ridge (13 pitches in total)." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "James Jenkins, Lindsay Main, Dec 1975." }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki/main-divide/mt-teichelmann-rakirua/clarke-saddle", "name": "Via Clarke Saddle", "grade": "3-", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "3-", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "Via Clarke Saddle, the route up the Main Divide to the peak is straightforward until the final summit cone where steep rock can be difficult and iced. If not covered by snow the rock is very loose." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Katie Gardiner, Harold Porter, Vic Williams, Feb 1929." }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki/main-divide/mt-teichelmann-rakirua/mt-graham", "name": "From Mt Graham", "grade": "3-", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "3-", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "From Mt Graham it is a simple climb until the exposed summit cone." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Dan Bryant, Lud Mahan, Jan 1933." }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki/main-divide/mt-teichelmann-rakirua/mt-graham-0", "name": "Via Mt Graham", "grade": "2+", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "2+", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "From the Balfour Glacier, either via Silberhorn or Mt Graham, there is little difficulty apart from the final rock cone (choss). Also see other routes on Mt Teichelmann/Rakirua." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "First ascent from the Balfour Glacier: Alan Berry, A Clough, R C Western, Dec 1955." }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki/main-divide/mt-teichelmann-rakirua/couloir-route", "name": "Couloir Route", "grade": "3", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "3", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "A snow gully leads up onto the north-western side of Mt Teichelmann. This has also been used as a descent route, but beware of rockfall." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Nick Von Tunzelmann, A Bowden, Bob Cunninghame, Alex Parton, Jan 1967." } ], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki/main-divide/mt-haast": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki/main-divide/mt-haast", "name": "Mt Haast", "altitude": "3114m", "access": null, "description": "The three peaks of Mt Haast are actually just off the Main Divide, at the head of the Fox Glacier.", "latlng": [ "-43.55906057", "170.17787933" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki/main-divide/mt-haast/south-face-plateau-face", "name": "South Face (Plateau Face)", "grade": "4+", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "4+", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "At least three variations exist, all commencing from the n\u00e9v\u00e9 between Syme Ridge and Mt Dixon. Climb 400m of steepish ice and then, depending on conditions and inclination, either left through the ice bulge, directly up through the icecliff, or right via ice gullies through a rock band." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Mike Andrews, Colin Dodge, D Warren, Jan 1972." }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki/main-divide/mt-haast/dixon-haast-ridge", "name": "Dixon-Haast Ridge", "grade": "3", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "3", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "From the summit of Mt Dixon follow the rotten rock ridge over towers, usually turning difficulties on the east side." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Harry Ayres, Bruce Gillies, Feb 1953." } ], "places": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki/main-divide/mt-haast/east-face", "name": "East Face", "altitude": "3114m", "access": null, "description": "The spurs on the east face of Mt Haast have been numbered from 1 to 5, starting at Pioneer Pass and heading right. There are no recorded ascents of Spur 1 and Spur 3.", "latlng": null, "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki/main-divide/mt-haast/east-face/authors-route", "name": "Authors' Route", "grade": "3,III", "topo_ref": "11.79", "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": "3", "commitment": "III", "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": null } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": "Ascend the prominent couloir between Spur 1 and Spur 2, beginning about 150m west of the crest of Pioneer Pass, reaching the Main Divide about 100m east of where the Haast massif abuts it. Traverse the ridge to the summit (refer to Route 11.110).", "ascent": "Mavis Davidson, Rod Hewitt, AF Reid, Jan 1955." }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki/main-divide/mt-haast/east-face/spur-2", "name": "Spur 2", "grade": "3,III", "topo_ref": "11.80", "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": "3", "commitment": "III", "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": null } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": "Gained from a quarter of the way up Route 11.79, and leads directly to High Peak. The climbing is fairly steep without being technical. The rock is sound to begin with and very shattered towards the top.", "ascent": "Jack Murrell, Bev Noble, Jan 1973" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki/main-divide/mt-haast/east-face/goulstone-rockell-gully", "name": "Goulstone-Rockell Gully", "grade": "4+,III", "topo_ref": "11.81", "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": "4+", "commitment": "III", "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": null } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": "Ascend the next obvious gully right of Spur 2, then up mixed ground to the left of the upper gully to finish near the summit.", "ascent": "John Goulstone, Mike Rockell, Aug 1982" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki/main-divide/mt-haast/east-face/hotline", "name": "Hotline", "grade": "5+,IV,WI3,M4", "topo_ref": null, "image": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/routes/GLP00562-1-Haast-Hotline.jpg?itok=cdAM0lDQ", "images": [ { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/routes/GLP00562-1-Haast-Hotline.jpg?itok=cdAM0lDQ", "height": "217", "width": "325" }, { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/routes/_BSM6902-2-Haast-Hotline-side-view.jpg?itok=vV_fu6kK", "height": "217", "width": "325" } ], "length": "445m", "pitches": [ { "alpine": "3+", "commitment": "IV", "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": "100m", "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "Free climbed first 100m on first ascent." }, { "alpine": "4", "commitment": "IV", "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": "M4", "length": "60m", "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "Left through mixed terrain to gain steep ice at obvious gully. Belay on right to avoid hang fire." }, { "alpine": "4+", "commitment": "IV", "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": "WI3", "mixed": "M4", "length": "60m", "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "Steepening ice with M4+ move to exit and belay" }, { "alpine": "3+", "commitment": "IV", "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": "WI2", "mixed": null, "length": "55m", "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "Up steep snow/ ice trending left to prominent spur" }, { "alpine": "5+", "commitment": "IV", "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": "M5", "length": "60m", "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "Up steeping snow/ ice ramp trending right until it steepens and deal to the short vertical and overhanging rock/rime/ ice bulges. Relents to find a good rock bollard belay on spur. Beware loose rock through steep section." }, { "alpine": "3", "commitment": "IV", "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": "70m", "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "Follow Spur/ ridgeline until it steepens and overhangs. Step left and downclimb or rappel 3-4m" }, { "alpine": "3", "commitment": "IV", "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": "40m", "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "Follow exit gully to reach ridgeline. First ascent party continued to summit of High Peak via the complementary mixed ground (70m) facing north, at approx M4." } ], "quality": 2, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": "On the East Face of Mt Haast, start right of the triangle (Little Big Wall). Best climbed after a good freeze and/ or a cycle of melting to get rid of any hang fire or loose wet avalanche danger. This is a steep solar aspect getting sun for most of the day, hence the name 'Hotline'.\nThis route is as close to spur 3 (as per 2018 guidebook) as possible and is situated between route 11.81 and 11.83.", "ascent": "Gavin Lang, Ben Sanford, 3 September 2019" } ], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki/main-divide/mt-haast/mt-haast-middle-pk", "name": "Mt Haast Middle Pk", "altitude": "3099m", "access": null, "description": null, "latlng": null, "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki/main-divide/mt-haast/mt-haast-middle-pk/high-peak", "name": "From High Peak", "grade": "3,III,3+", "topo_ref": "11.82", "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": "3", "commitment": "III", "mtcook": "3+", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "An exposed scramble over loose rock that can be complicated by icy conditions." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Frank Alack, H K Douglas, Jan 1936." }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki/main-divide/mt-haast/mt-haast-middle-pk/34-couloir", "name": "3/4 Couloir", "grade": "3,IV", "topo_ref": "11.83", "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": "3", "commitment": "IV", "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": null } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": "The prominent couloir on the East Face between Spur 3 and Spur 4, to the left of the Middle Peak, has been used for ascent and descent. The route comes out 80m east of the Middle Peak.", "ascent": "Mike Rockell, Michael Venz, plus party of three, August 1979" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki/main-divide/mt-haast/mt-haast-middle-pk/vanilla-ice", "name": "Vanilla Ice", "grade": "III,5,A5,WI4,M3", "topo_ref": null, "image": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/routes/Vanilla%20Ice.jpg?itok=2C3xWCpK", "images": [ { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/routes/Vanilla%20Ice.jpg?itok=2C3xWCpK", "height": "183", "width": "325" } ], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": "III", "mtcook": "5", "aid": "A5", "ice": "WI4", "mixed": "M3", "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "Beautiful WI4 pitch." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": "Follow up obvious ice line on the East Face, then up gully to mixed terrain to summit.", "ascent": "Asher March, Lukas Kirchner, October 2020" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki/main-divide/mt-haast/mt-haast-middle-pk/spur-4-north-east-ridge", "name": "Spur 4 (North East Ridge)", "grade": "3+,IV", "topo_ref": "11.84", "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": "3+", "commitment": "IV", "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": null } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": "A direct climb up a series of steps on the rib to reach Middle Peak. The lower and middle sections of the rib are somewhat loose. Crux pitches of grade 12 but nowhere very difficult unless iced up.", "ascent": "Austin Brookes, Peter Moore, John Trotter, Jan 1973" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki/main-divide/mt-haast/mt-haast-middle-pk/middle-high-peak-col", "name": "Middle-High Peak Col", "grade": "3-", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "3-", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "Ascend from the upper Marcel Glacier via a snow couloir." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Harold Porter, Jack Pope, Mar 1933." }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki/main-divide/mt-haast/mt-haast-middle-pk/psychoterratica", "name": "Psychoterratica", "grade": "5+,III,M5", "topo_ref": null, "image": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/routes/Haast-Middle-Peak-Psychoterraticapsd.jpg?itok=bnHBlvVq", "images": [ { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/routes/Haast-Middle-Peak-Psychoterraticapsd.jpg?itok=bnHBlvVq", "height": "183", "width": "325" } ], "length": "200m", "pitches": [ { "alpine": "5+", "commitment": "III", "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": "M5", "length": "200m", "bolts": null, "trad": true, "ewbank": null, "description": "A fantastic, fun line, with many styles packed into a small space. Transitions from steep ice through to a chockstone/ chimney, finishing on some steep, mix terrain....and an easy summit ridge line to the top." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": true, "description": null, "ascent": "Josef Kr\u00e1l, Jake Gray, Gavin Lang 24 Sept 2022" } ], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki/main-divide/mt-haast/mt-haast-north-pk", "name": "Mt Haast North Pk", "altitude": "3065m", "access": null, "description": "This is predominantly a rock peak with plenty of scope for new variations. The North Peak of Haast has been incorrectly known for a long time as the West Peak of Mt Haast. The three peaks of Haast run perpendicular to the Main Divide, and most people assume the Main Divide runs north to south. Not always...", "latlng": [ "-43.55524", "170.17658" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki/main-divide/mt-haast/mt-haast-north-pk/traverse-three-peaks-%E2%80%98haast-gt%E2%80%99", "name": "Traverse of the three peaks (\u2018Haast GT\u2019)", "grade": "4,IV", "topo_ref": "11.85", "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": "4", "commitment": "IV", "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": null } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": "This route involves one of the North Peak ascent routes and then traverses the Middle and High Peaks. A pleasant climb made quite committing because of its length. The rock near the Middle and High Peaks is loose. A classic traverse, first completed without crampons.", "ascent": "Hans Bohny, T Sidler, Jan 1955" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki/main-divide/mt-haast/mt-haast-north-pk/north-east-rib-spur-5", "name": "North East Rib (Spur 5)", "grade": "4,IV,4-", "topo_ref": "11.86", "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": "4", "commitment": "IV", "mtcook": "4-", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": null } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": "500m of climbing on four rock buttresses with linking snow ridges to reach a gap south of North Peak. The lower buttress is comprised of solid rock, the second is steep rotten rock, and the remainder good rock.", "ascent": "Austin Brookes, Bruce Farmer, Ralph Miller, Jan 1978." }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki/main-divide/mt-haast/mt-haast-north-pk/atkinson-hall-route", "name": "Atkinson-Hall Route", "grade": "16,4+,IV", "topo_ref": "11.87", "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": "4+", "commitment": "IV", "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": "16", "description": "Ascend the ice gully beneath North Peak with a rock crux (15/16) at two-thirds height. The top section is on generally poor rock. It has been climbed in winter as a mixed route." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Bill Atkinson, Rob Hall, Nov 1981." }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki/main-divide/mt-haast/mt-haast-north-pk/natural-gas", "name": "Natural Gas", "grade": "5+,III", "topo_ref": "11.88", "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": "5+", "commitment": "III", "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": null } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": "Starts left of the large corner on the left side of the North East Spur. Up the face on ice leads until steep mixed ground is encountered. The first ascentionists abandoned the climb here by traversing to the North East Spur; the route is awaiting a finish to the North Peak. The routeis best climbed when the face is heavily rimed. Choose a not too hot day, as the face gets a lot of sun and the rime ice can fall down. Dave\u2019s comment on the route was \u2018harder than the Central Gully on Douglas.\u2019 Named after the LPG gas heater flown in to Pioneer Hut for the trip.", "ascent": "Rich Turner, Allan Uren, Dave Vass, Aug 2002" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki/main-divide/mt-haast/mt-haast-north-pk/nash-aimer-route", "name": "Nash-Aimer Route", "grade": "17,4+,III", "topo_ref": "11.89", "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": "4+", "commitment": "III", "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": true, "ewbank": "17", "description": "A face route that starts between the Atkinson-Hall and North Spur routes. From the bottom, move gradually left until the North East Spur route is visible, then move right over chossy ground. Continue straight up, climbing 20m of superb exposed slab en route, to join the North East Spur route where it flattens, and then continue to the summit. Red rock provides cruxes of 16/17 and good protection." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": true, "description": null, "ascent": "Carol Nash, Greg Aimer, Jan 1986." }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki/main-divide/mt-haast/mt-haast-north-pk/north-east-spur", "name": "North East Spur", "grade": "3+,III", "topo_ref": "11.90", "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": "3+", "commitment": "III", "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": null } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": "Starts just right of Nash-Aimer. Traverse right across a ledge low on the spur and then ascend the rib until the large gully on the right meets the top of the rib. Climb up the ridge crest on good rock. A recommended variation at 2/3 height is to climb the face on the right, on excellent rock. Higher up, the ridge flattens out before rising again to the summit. Descended by the same route. Historically referred to as the West Ridge.", "ascent": "Harry Ayres, Geoff Harrow, Alan Rattray, Apr 1952" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki/main-divide/mt-haast/mt-haast-north-pk/couloir-route", "name": "Couloir Route", "grade": "3,III", "topo_ref": "11.91", "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": "3", "commitment": "III", "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "Ascend the prominent couloir to the right of the North East Spur. At the top of the couloir, turn left to join the North East Spur route." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "First ascent party unknown." }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki/main-divide/mt-haast/mt-haast-north-pk/north-ridge", "name": "North Ridge", "grade": "3+,III", "topo_ref": "11.92", "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": "3+", "commitment": "III", "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": null } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": "Ascend the rib to the right of the North East Couloir to gain the ridge proper, continue toa prominent gendarme (the top of Sun Circle), which can be turned on the north or traversed, and then up the face where the North East Spur joins the ridge, to the summit.", "ascent": "Hans Bohny, Tony Sidler, Jan 1955" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki/main-divide/mt-haast/mt-haast-north-pk/eurostar", "name": "Eurostar", "grade": "18,5,II", "topo_ref": "11.93", "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": "5", "commitment": "II", "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": true, "ewbank": "18", "description": "Amongst the ramparts of Mt Haast, a stellar 60m pinnacle.\nGood pro small to med wires & cams." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": true, "description": null, "ascent": "Stefan Sporli & Jude Spancken, Dec 2011" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki/main-divide/mt-haast/mt-haast-north-pk/forgotten-corner", "name": "Forgotten Corner", "grade": "4+,III", "topo_ref": "11.94", "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": "4+", "commitment": "III", "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": null } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": "Climb a prominent corner to the right of Eurostar for three pitches of good rock, and then seven pitches on deteriorating quality rock (crux 16), to reach the gendarme of Sun Circle. Abseil the face to the climber\u2019s right of Sun Circle.", "ascent": "Daniel Joll, Charles Langelier, Jan 2011" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki/main-divide/mt-haast/mt-haast-north-pk/sun-circle", "name": "Sun Circle", "grade": "17,4+,II", "topo_ref": "11.95", "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": "4+", "commitment": "II", "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": true, "ewbank": "17", "description": null } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": true, "description": "Climbs the left edge of a large slab just up and right from Eurostar, to the left of a large gully. The route begins from a block of rock adjacent to where a schrund usually forms. Six pitches of steep climbing (crux 17) on some quality rock up to the top of a prominent gendarme. Abseil directly back down the face.", "ascent": "Stefan Sporli & Jude Spancken, Dec 2011" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki/main-divide/mt-haast/mt-haast-north-pk/golden-eye", "name": "Golden Eye", "grade": "20", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": "20", "description": null } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": "A route to the right of Sun Circle, effectively following the abseil line. 5 Pitches.", "ascent": "Llewellyn Murdoch ,Alison Swintz, Mar 2012" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki/main-divide/mt-haast/mt-haast-north-pk/north-couloir", "name": "North Couloir", "grade": "3,III,3+", "topo_ref": "11.96", "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": "3", "commitment": "III", "mtcook": "3+", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "A small couloir separating the north-west extremities of the ridge" } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": "A small couloir separating the extremities of the ridge, eventually leading to the North Ridge.", "ascent": "E R B Graham and D J Heraud, Feb 1957" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki/main-divide/mt-haast/mt-haast-north-pk/north-west-toe", "name": "North West Toe", "grade": "3,III", "topo_ref": "11.97", "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": "3", "commitment": "III", "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": null } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": "A good alternative start to the North Ridge. Access the spur from the left and scramble up to join Route 11.92.", "ascent": "Ron Dickie, Gordon Hasell, 1958" } ], "places": [], "image": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/wide/public/image/Haast%20Pk%201.jpg?itok=X88h-TJx", "images": [ { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/wide/public/image/Haast%20Pk%201.jpg?itok=X88h-TJx", "height": "790", "width": "1090" }, { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/image/ATP%20Guide_Haast%20North.jpg?itok=tm8DgFmM", "height": "254", "width": "325" }, { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/image/West%20Haast.jpg?itok=6wd-BKrF", "height": "230", "width": "325" } ] }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/main-divide-of-the-southern-alps/mt-haast/marcel-face", "name": "Marcel Face", "altitude": null, "access": null, "description": "The western aspect of Mt Haast offers a good range of gullies that are usually well iced through to December. There have been several harder routes put up on the Marcel side since the 1970s, but only some have been recorded.", "latlng": null, "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/main-divide-of-the-southern-alps/mt-haast/marcel-face/left-gully", "name": "Left Gully", "grade": "4+,III", "topo_ref": "11.98", "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": "4+", "commitment": "III", "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": null } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": "The obvious gully leading to the left hand notch on the skyline.", "ascent": "First ascent details unknown" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/main-divide-of-the-southern-alps/mt-haast/marcel-face/swimming-sharks-direct", "name": "Swimming with Sharks Direct", "grade": "5,III", "topo_ref": "11.99", "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": "5", "commitment": "III", "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": null } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": "The left-most and more direct of two ice runnels that lead to the right hand notch on the skyline. Similar climbing to Swimming with Sharks.", "ascent": "Jono Clarke, Jamie Vinton-Boot, Aug 2011" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/main-divide-of-the-southern-alps/mt-haast/marcel-face/swimming-sharks", "name": "Swimming with Sharks", "grade": "5,III", "topo_ref": "11.100", "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": "5", "commitment": "III", "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": null } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": "Takes the right-most of two ice runnels that lead to the right hand notch on the skyline. Generally thin ice requiring short ice screws. First ascended in eight pitches. The first ascentionists traversed the ridge to the North-Middle Peak col, but abseiling the route is recommended.", "ascent": "Jono Clarke, Matt Quirke, winter 2009" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/main-divide-of-the-southern-alps/mt-haast/marcel-face/talula-does-hula-hawaii", "name": "Talula Does The Hula From Hawaii", "grade": "5+,III", "topo_ref": "11.101", "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": "5+", "commitment": "III", "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": null } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": "Five pitches of enjoyable ice climbing interspersed with some tricky mixed climbing.", "ascent": "Jono Clarke, Jamie Vinton-Boot, Aug 2010" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/main-divide-of-the-southern-alps/mt-haast/marcel-face/supergroove", "name": "Supergroove", "grade": "7,III", "topo_ref": "11.102", "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": "7", "commitment": "III", "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": null } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": "A short but technically difficult route (crux M6) with a bit of everything. Ice, a strenuous chimney, a free hanging pillar, and a sting at the end.", "ascent": "Jono Clarke, Jamie Vinton-Boot, Aug 2010" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/main-divide-of-the-southern-alps/mt-haast/marcel-face/north-middle-peak-col", "name": "North-Middle Peak Col", "grade": "3,III,3", "topo_ref": "11.103", "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": "3", "commitment": "III", "mtcook": "3", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "Ascend from the Marcel Glacier onto the Marcel Face. up steep snow into the righthand of two narrow couloirs leading to the col. Then on up the main ridge to the summit." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": "Ascend from the Marcel Glacier up steep snow into the right hand of two narrow couloirs leading to the col, and then on up the main ridge to the summit.", "ascent": "Phil Houghton, David Herron, Fred Page, Richard Tornquist, Jan 1959." }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/main-divide-of-the-southern-alps/mt-haast/marcel-face/middle-peak-high-peak-col", "name": "Middle Peak- High Peak Col", "grade": "3,III", "topo_ref": "11.104", "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": "3", "commitment": "III", "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": null } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": "Ascend from the upper Marcel Glacier via a snow couloir.", "ascent": "Jack Pope, Harold Porter, Mar 1933" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/main-divide-of-the-southern-alps/mt-haast/marcel-face/mutleys-revenge", "name": "Mutley's Revenge", "grade": "4+,III", "topo_ref": "11.105", "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": "4+", "commitment": "III", "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": null } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": "Start just right of the Citizen Chowdhury ramp via a short but steep pitch on an ice hose, then ease back to a couple of straight-forward pitches on steepish snow, heading straight for the summit. The fourth pitch climbs through short but steeper ice steps, then the fifth pitch climbs a steep snow gully to top out just west of the High Peak. The first ascentionists descended via the same route with five 50m abseils.", "ascent": "Craig Cardie, Andy Tindall July 2010" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/main-divide-of-the-southern-alps/mt-haast/marcel-face/citizen-chowdhury", "name": "Citizen Chowdhury", "grade": "4,III,4-", "topo_ref": "11.106", "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": "4", "commitment": "III", "mtcook": "4-", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "Start below high peak but trend right arriving about 50m east of the High Peak summit. Involves several short but steep steps. Five pitches." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Dave Chowdhury, Brendan Kane, Dec 1999." }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/main-divide-of-the-southern-alps/mt-haast/marcel-face/valentine-gully", "name": "Valentine Gully", "grade": "5-", "topo_ref": "11.107", "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "5-", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "This five pitch route takes a prominent narrow gully almost directly below the high peak. The crux is at the bottom. The gully tops out between high peak and the next obvious prominence to the ). Descend to Marcel col. Cammell/Monteith climbed a steeper 3 pitch variation to left." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Dave Langrish, Lyn Bowering, 14 Feb 1987." }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/main-divide-of-the-southern-alps/mt-haast/marcel-face/holloway-thompson", "name": "Holloway-Thompson", "grade": "4+,III", "topo_ref": "11.108", "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": "4+", "commitment": "III", "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": null } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": "Begin up Route 11.109, and then up the steep cascade on the left to gain a hanging gully. From there, climb three 60m pitches directly to the south summit.", "ascent": "Stuart Hollaway, Alison Thompson, Jan 2005" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/main-divide-of-the-southern-alps/mt-haast/marcel-face/right-gully", "name": "Right Gully", "grade": null, "topo_ref": "11.109", "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "Gully between high peak and divide peak." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": "Gully between high peak and Main Divide knob.\nDon Bogie, Peter Sommerville, Jun 1979", "ascent": "Mike Andrews, Doug Warren, Colin Dodge, Dec 1972." }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/main-divide-of-the-southern-alps/mt-haast/marcel-face/south-west-ridge", "name": "South West Ridge", "grade": "3,II", "topo_ref": "11.110", "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": "3", "commitment": "II", "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": null } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": "From Marcel Col, follow an easy snow ridge leading north-east off the Main Divide, and along a slightly tricky rock ridge to the summit. A regular descent route. Despite the easy access, watch for loose rock late in summer.", "ascent": "Alec Graham, Henry Newton, Feb 1907" } ], "places": [], "image": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/wide/public/image/ATP%20West%20%28Marcel%20Face%29%20Haast%20pg%20330.jpg?itok=D17Vb4XF", "images": [ { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/wide/public/image/ATP%20West%20%28Marcel%20Face%29%20Haast%20pg%20330.jpg?itok=D17Vb4XF", "height": "888", "width": "1090" } ] } ], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki-tai-poutini/main-divide/mt-elie-de-beaumont": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki-tai-poutini/main-divide/mt-elie-de-beaumont", "name": "Mt Elie de Beaumont", "altitude": "3109m", "access": null, "description": "Mt Elie de Beaumont is the northern-most 3000-metre peak in the Southern Alps Ka Tiritiri O Te Moana.", "latlng": [ "-43.48208992", "170.32812098" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki-tai-poutini/main-divide/mt-elie-de-beaumont/anna-glacier", "name": "Anna Glacier", "grade": "2+", "topo_ref": "1", "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "2+", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "Head up the glacier (which later in the season can be cut off by crevasses) usually keeping close under Mt Walter. Then ascend slopes onto the col between Mts Walter and Elie de Beaumont. Follow an easy snow ridge up to the summit (but watch out for hard ice just above the col). This is the usual descent route. Routes can be pushed directly up the Anna Glacier to the summit in good snow conditions. \r\nIf the Anna Glacier is badly crevassed and the col between Mts Walter and Elie de Beaumont is cut off, traverse from Divers Col over Mt Walter to Elie de Beaumont." } ], "quality": 1, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Peter Graham, Henrick Sillem, February 1906" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki-tai-poutini/main-divide/mt-elie-de-beaumont/south-east-ridge", "name": "South East Ridge", "grade": "3-", "topo_ref": "2", "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "3-", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "From Lendenfeld Saddle climb the sharp and undulating ridge onto the upper Anna Plateau (there may be an unpleasant ice cliff here) and easily onto the summit." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Mavis Davidson, Rod Hewitt, Priestly Thomson, January 1954" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki-tai-poutini/main-divide/mt-elie-de-beaumont/maximilian-ridge", "name": "Maximilian Ridge", "grade": "4+", "topo_ref": "4 or MR", "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "4+", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "From the Burton Glacier gain the ridge via a couloir south of Roderick Peak. Then follow the pinnacled ridge (the lower part of the ridge may be avoided by using the n\u00e9v\u00e9 of the Burton Glacier) up over a prominent step, along a level section, and up 190m of mixed ground to the Anna Plateau under the summit of Mt Elie de Beaumont." } ], "quality": 1, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Ed Cotter, Ed Hillary, George Lowe, Earle Riddiford, January 1951. Ben Ellis, Jack Grinsted, Josh Mitchell, August 2017." }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki-tai-poutini/main-divide/mt-elie-de-beaumont/burton-spur", "name": "Burton Spur", "grade": "4+", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "4+", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "From the upper n\u00e9v\u00e9 of the Burton Glacier (reached via the lower part of the Maximilian Ridge, ascend left onto the crest of the rib. Mixed climbing leads onto a snow ar\u00eate and snow slopes leading to the summit." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Dave Bamford, Kevin Boekholt, Russell Braddock, John Nankervis, February 1984" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki-tai-poutini/main-divide/mt-elie-de-beaumont/whymper-spur", "name": "Whymper Spur", "grade": "4", "topo_ref": "WS", "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "4", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "From the Whymper Glacier, ascend the prominent spur leading onto the upper part of the\r\nMaximilian Range. The spur becomes steeper and more difficult towards the top, and the rock\r\nis not particularly good. The first ascent was done in deep soft snow." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "George Harris, Keith Nannery, November 1970" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki-tai-poutini/main-divide/mt-elie-de-beaumont/ski-touring", "name": "Ski Touring", "grade": null, "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "Experienced mountaineers may attempt ascents of other peaks in the region including Elie de Beaumont (3109m). From the huts, traverse underneath the west shoulder of Hochstetter Dome and turn north into the upper Anna Glacier. There are often large crevasses on the Anna Glacier, and at times it may be impassable. It is best to scope out the glacier conditions from the summit of Hochstetter Dome the day before, to get some idea of the conditions. Beware also of possible ice avalanches from Mt Walter. Most skiers leave their skis on the south west shoulder of Elie, but under ideal conditions it is possible to ski off the summit. Advanced ski terrain. 6-10 hours return." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": null } ], "places": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/main-divide-of-the-southern-alps/mt-elie-de-beaumont/spencer-face", "name": "Spencer Face", "altitude": null, "access": null, "description": "Climbs start in the Upper Spencer Glacier.", "latlng": null, "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/main-divide-of-the-southern-alps/mt-elie-de-beaumont/spencer-face/carroll-strong-route", "name": "Carroll-Strong Route", "grade": "4", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "4", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "Head up the avalanche chute to the left of the Central Spur, then move left onto a snow and rock rib, which turns into an ice ar\u00eate before reaching the crux icecliffs. These may vary from season to season. Finish on the ridge connecting the West and East Peaks. An avalanche prone route." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Kevin Carroll, Dick Strong, December 1971" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/main-divide-of-the-southern-alps/mt-elie-de-beaumont/spencer-face/central-spur", "name": "Central Spur", "grade": "4+", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "4+", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "An elegant and classic route. Gain the foot of the spur from the left and follow this beautiful line up a snow and ice ar\u00eate until icecliffs are reached. Later in the summer the ar\u00eate may involve some technical rock climbing. Depending on the season the icecliffs provide a difficult crux. Then on to the main summit." } ], "quality": 1, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Bryan Pooley, Rob Rainsbury, John Stanton, John Visser, December 1972;" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/main-divide-of-the-southern-alps/mt-elie-de-beaumont/spencer-face/right-flank", "name": "Right Flank", "grade": "3+", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "3+", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "Climb up the broad snowface onto the lower shoulder of Mt Elie de Beaumont on the ridge to Mt Walter." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Warrick Anderson, Wilfrid Lammerink, Paul Scaife, June 1974" } ], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] } ], "image": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/wide/public/image/Anna-Glacier_0.jpg?itok=7YWF6LF6", "images": [ { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/wide/public/image/Anna-Glacier_0.jpg?itok=7YWF6LF6", "height": "537", "width": "599" }, { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/image/Maxmillian_0.jpg?itok=bxBYn1VD", "height": "217", "width": "325" }, { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/image/Elie%20deB.png?itok=h3Xxo9ng", "height": "208", "width": "325" } ] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki/main-divide/la-perouse": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki/main-divide/la-perouse", "name": "La Perouse", "altitude": "3078m", "access": null, "description": null, "latlng": [ "-43.60151448", "170.09234462" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki/main-divide/la-perouse/south-ridge", "name": "South Ridge", "grade": "4+", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "4+", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "From Gardiner Hut via Baker Saddle follow the snow ar\u00eate until it runs out\r\nbelow icecliffs (beware of ice avalanches). Climb the rock buttresses to the left of the cliffs on sound rock or early in the summer follow an ice gully. Then following the winding ar\u00eate to the summit. A dangerous route if the icecliffs are active." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Mike Gill, B Barrack, Jan 1960." }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki/main-divide/la-perouse/east-face", "name": "East Face", "grade": "4", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "4", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "The most elegant route is up a rounded rib that drops from the summit to the Hooker. From Gardiner Hut climb snow fields and rock ribs keeping an eye out for ice avalanches from cliffs to the right and left. Beware of soft snow slides later in the day in summer." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Hans Leitner, Eberhard von Terzi, Jan 1962" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki/main-divide/la-perouse/east-face-0", "name": "East Face", "grade": "4-", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "4-", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "A route begins up under Mt Jellicoe and traverses up under Mt Low to the right of the summit of Mt La Perouse. There are a number of other variant routes on this face." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Gordon Hasell, A R Page, I R Seddon, Richard Tornquist, Jan 1958." }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki/main-divide/la-perouse/divide-route", "name": "Divide Route", "grade": "3", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "3", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "This route begins by climbing Mt Jellicoe either via the slopes under Mt Sturdee and up a Y-shaped couloir, via the rotten Divide ridge, via slopes on the west or via a prominent snow ar\u00eate from the upper Hooker (A D Jackson, V I E Whitehead, 1941). Beyond Jellicoe either traverse Mt Low and the ridge to La Perouse or skirt below the ridge on the western slopes and up to the summit. This is a long climb but still the most common descent route." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Hugh Chambers, Peter Graham, Mar 1921 (La Perouse)." }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki/main-divide/la-perouse/west-ridge", "name": "West Ridge", "grade": "3", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "3", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "From the Gulch-La Perouse Glaciers junction ascend to a basin at 1550m where there are a number of natural rock shelters. From here ascend the ridge traversing several rotten rock steps. Then ascend a steep snowface onto the upper ar\u00eate and follow this up onto the spacious summit area. A descent route has been made down the snow slopes to the north of the lower ridge." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Alex Graham, R S Low, Henry Newton, Ebenezer Teichelmann, Feb 1906." }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki/main-divide/la-perouse/south-west-ridge", "name": "South West Ridge", "grade": "3", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "3", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "From the head of the narrow Gulch Glacier (beware of avalanches off the West Ridge) follow snow leads tending left to gain the ridge above the obvious rock step." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Dave Bamford, John Nankervis, Jan 1979" } ], "places": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/main-divide-of-the-southern-alps/la-perouse/south-face", "name": "South Face", "altitude": null, "access": null, "description": "The climbs start in the Strauchon Glacier Area.", "latlng": null, "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/main-divide-of-the-southern-alps/la-perouse/south-face/south-west-ridge", "name": "South West Ridge", "grade": "4-", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "4-", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "From the Strauchon Glacier ascend the Low Glacier onto the Navigator Range. Ascend on the Gulch Glacier side of the ridge. When the obvious rock step in the ridge is reached cut onto the Gulch Face and ascend directly on snow to where the South Ridge meets the South West Ridge. Also see the La Perouse Glacier section." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "H T Barcham, Ash Cunningham, A Witten-Hannah, Jan 1953." }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/main-divide-of-the-southern-alps/la-perouse/south-face/slab-route", "name": "Slab Route", "grade": "14,5-", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "5-", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": "14", "description": "Climb the diagonal slab that runs up the entire face (crux 14). The upper portion of the slab is usually snow covered and there may be a small icecliff to negotiate." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Peter Dickson, Bryan Moore, Jan 1988." }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/main-divide-of-the-southern-alps/la-perouse/south-face/bill-and-ted%E2%80%99s-excellent-adventure", "name": "Bill and Ted\u2019s Excellent Adventure", "grade": "6+", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "6+", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "Ascend the obvious main ice line that drips down the face. The upper section of the face is visible from Gardiner Hut. Near the top, gain the ramp of the slab route below the dormant(?) serac. Access to the base of the route may be threatened. Fourteen pitches. Two bivvies required. Probably the hardest route in the book." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Bill McLeod, Brian Alder, Aug 1993" } ], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] } ], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki/main-divide/douglas-pk": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki/main-divide/douglas-pk", "name": "Douglas Pk", "altitude": "3077m", "access": null, "description": "The easiest descent route is the West Face of Glacier Pk.\nThere are a series of gullies on the south side of the Pioneer Ridge, 200m east of Pioneer Hut and adjacent to the Cleves Glacier. When in condition (spring, winter) these gullies provide good short ice climbs. Descend on to the Explorer N\u00e9v\u00e9. First ascents are unknown.", "latlng": [ "-43.54120204", "170.20171514" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki/main-divide/douglas-pk/tasman-glacier", "name": "From the Tasman Glacier", "grade": "3", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "3", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "This peak is usually climbed from the Tasman Glacier via Glacier Peak. Access from the Forrest-Ross N\u00e9v\u00e9 onto the south (Ayres) ridge is quite feasible. Another route exists from the n\u00e9v\u00e9, which ascends up under the summit before cutting right to the col with Glacier Peak." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "L J Dumbleton, Neville Johnson, J D Willis, Dec 1935." }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki/main-divide/douglas-pk/north-divide-ridge", "name": "North Divide Ridge", "grade": "3-", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "3-", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "Ascend either Glacier Peak or to the Glacier-Douglas col. Follow the snow ridge to a short 30m ice/rock step to the summit ridge. This is the best way off Douglas and usually involves one abseil. Descend the West Face of Glacier Pk" } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Frank Alack, F Gardiner, T Sheehan, Apr 1931." }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki/main-divide/douglas-pk/north-west-face", "name": "North West Face", "grade": "4", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "4", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "Ascend the snow slopes under the West Ridge and up in to a narrow couloir to the right of a prominent rock buttress. Where the couloir ends, climb the mixed rock and snowface to the summit. (Routes have been descended on the left of the face, but this is not a good idea.)\r\nWinter ascent 28/8/14\r\nStepped left at the top of the Couloir and ascended snow slopes to the summit ridge. Variation on new ground." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Bill Denz, Ian Ross, Nov 1972." }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki/main-divide/douglas-pk/pioneer-ridge", "name": "Pioneer Ridge", "grade": "3+", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "3+", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "Usually gained from the Explorer Glacier. An exhilaratingly exposed route which follows an ar\u00eate, a rock step, another ar\u00eate and then leads up to the final rock wall which provides the crux. If the top rocks are iced turn this rock step on the South Face." } ], "quality": 1, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Alex Graham, Henry Newton, Ebenezer Teichelmann, Jan 1907." }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki/main-divide/douglas-pk/ayres-ridge", "name": "Ayres Ridge", "grade": "4", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "4", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "An unrelenting ridge between Mt Haidinger and Douglas Peak with many rock towers, varying in soundness. The final rise to the summit of Douglas is probably the hardest section and can be avoided on the east." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Harry Ayres, Bruce Gillies, Feb 1953." } ], "places": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/main-divide-of-the-southern-alps/douglas-pk/south-face", "name": "South Face", "altitude": "3077m", "access": null, "description": "The South face of Douglas looms above the Albert Glacier and its steep ar\u00eates create amphitheatres amidst near-vertical rock. The south face throws out a challenge to any climber who ventures under it. Although the main routes on the face are described below, some variations do exist.\nDescent: Until recently, the standard descent was over Glacier Peak. If you plan to go this way check that the west face is not too open with crevasses and a bergschrund, and that you have enough rope and gear for a abseil off Douglas towards Glacier Peak. People have got ropes stuck on this abseil in the past. Nowadays many people abseil the face on V -threads which puts you back at your skis ...", "latlng": null, "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/main-divide-of-the-southern-alps/douglas-pk/south-face/jefferies-uren", "name": "Jefferies- Uren", "grade": "5,III,5", "topo_ref": "11.57", "image": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/route/23740008.jpg?itok=PgQ9waMx", "images": [ { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/route/23740008.jpg?itok=PgQ9waMx", "height": "313", "width": "325" } ], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": "5", "commitment": "III", "mtcook": "5", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": null } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": "Follows a vague gully on the left side of the face, finishing a little over half way up Pioneer Ridge.", "ascent": "Craig Jefferies, Allan Uren. 2002" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/main-divide-of-the-southern-alps/douglas-pk/south-face/left-hand-gully", "name": "Left Hand Gully", "grade": "4,IV,5-", "topo_ref": "11.58", "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": "4", "commitment": "IV", "mtcook": "5-", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "Follow the narrow couloir that gradually widens and meets the central ar\u00eate. Continue up and traverse into the upper Central Couloir and up to the summit. A classic and highly recommended climb." } ], "quality": 2, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": "Where it all began\u2014a classic and highly recommended climb. Follow the narrow couloir that gradually widens and meets the central ar\u00eate. Continue up, traverse right into the upper Central Gully just above the crux in that line, and on to the summit. The Left Hand Gully is quite a bit easier than the Central Gully, being less steep overall. Remember that in 1968 when the first ascent was made, they still climbed \u2018in balance,\u2019 using straight picks so that you had to hold the shaft of the axe out from the ice to prevent the pick popping out. Short ropes, pitons, primitive ice protection\u2014an amazing first ascent.", "ascent": "George Harris, Murray Jones, Dec 1968." }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/main-divide-of-the-southern-alps/douglas-pk/south-face/albert-town-direct", "name": "Albert Town Direct", "grade": "5,IV,WI3,M3", "topo_ref": "11.59", "image": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/route/albert-town-direct.png?itok=Ob45w6lX", "images": [ { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/route/albert-town-direct.png?itok=Ob45w6lX", "height": "244", "width": "325" }, { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/route/South%20Face%20Douglas%20B.jpg?itok=i5zyS0ch", "height": "313", "width": "325" } ], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": "5", "commitment": "IV", "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": "WI3", "mixed": "M3", "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": null } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": "A creative line that runs up the right-hand front face of the central buttress to the central snow ar\u00eate and finishes up the upper Left Hand Gully.", "ascent": "Craig Jefferies, Dave Vass, July 2003" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/main-divide-of-the-southern-alps/douglas-pk/south-face/interloper", "name": "Interloper", "grade": "4+,IV", "topo_ref": "11.60", "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": "4+", "commitment": "IV", "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": null } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": "A variation to the Central Couloir route that traverses from the right to the left couloir lower than the original line does, hence missing the central couloir, and involving four pitches of new ground to reach route 11.58. Dave and Lynn had decided to put the belay out of the gully on that left wall and were just missed by large rockfall in the RH Gully so they decided to carry on that line. It was previously named Interceptor in 2003 when climbed by Grant Piper, Paul Scaife, Andrew Haugh, Oct 2003 not realising it had been previously climbed.", "ascent": "FFA Lynn Bowering & Dave Crow, Nov 1985" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/main-divide-of-the-southern-alps/douglas-pk/south-face/denztimms", "name": "Denz/Timms", "grade": "4+,IV,5", "topo_ref": "11.60", "image": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/route/Douglas.png?itok=Hr4NEibY", "images": [ { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/route/Douglas.png?itok=Hr4NEibY", "height": "246", "width": "325" } ], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": "4+", "commitment": "IV", "mtcook": "5", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "Start up the RH gully then makes a difficult (1971) traverse left to join the Central arete then finishes up the original LH gully finish. This was the FWA of the South Face of Douglas." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": "Follow the lower Right Hand Gully to near the foot of the obvious narrow notch (at two thirds height), and then traverse up and left, below the headwall of the Central Gully, to cross over the central ar\u00eate, finishing up Route 11.58.", "ascent": "Bill Denz, Chris Timms, August 1971" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/main-divide-of-the-southern-alps/douglas-pk/south-face/central-gully", "name": "Central Gully", "grade": "5,IV,5+", "topo_ref": "11.62", "image": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/route/Douglas_0.png?itok=i0r8mXBJ", "images": [ { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/route/Douglas_0.png?itok=i0r8mXBJ", "height": "246", "width": "325" } ], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": "5", "commitment": "IV", "mtcook": "5+", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "Follow the lower right couloir to near the foot of the obvious narrow notch (at 2/3 height), then traverse leftwards into the Central Couloir. Ascend steep ice, for a couple of pitches, which gradually relent, leading to the summit. Superb." } ], "quality": 2, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": "This is one of the great ice climbs of New Zealand\u2014a perfect line on a beautiful face.\nFollow Route 11.61 as far as the first section of the leftwards traverse into the Central Gully. Here there are two pitches of steep ice. The first is around 80 degrees and usually forms as water ice. The second pitch gradually relents, and then moderate ground leads to the summit. Abseiling the route has become popular on V threads, which has the added advantage of bringing you back to your skis, but think carefully about whether this is feasible for you on the lower pitches, which can collect a lot of snow. Legend has it that a party, while retreating from just below the crux, dropped both their ropes and had to downclimb the lower pitches.", "ascent": "Nick Cradock, John Davie, Colin Dodge, Roland Logan, William Trengrove, Aug 1977." }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/main-divide-of-the-southern-alps/douglas-pk/south-face/right-hand-gully", "name": "Right Hand Gully", "grade": "4,IV,5", "topo_ref": "11.63", "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": "4", "commitment": "IV", "mtcook": "5", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "Climb the couloir to an obvious deep notch, which can be ascended or else avoided using a ramp on the left. Then exit via a wide couloir onto the Ayres Ridge." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": "Climb the gully to an obvious deep notch, which can be ascended or else avoided using a ramp on the left, and then exit via a wide couloir onto the Ayres Ridge. A good route if you like climbing notches.", "ascent": "Bill Denz, Ian Ross, Nov 1972. (Denz and Chris Timms climbed up to the base of the notch before continuing on Route 11.61 in Aug 1971)" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/main-divide-of-the-southern-alps/douglas-pk/south-face/far-right-rib", "name": "Far Right Rib", "grade": "4+", "topo_ref": "11.64", "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "4+", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": null } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": "Follow the rock rib, right of the Right Hand Gully, which joins the Ayres Ridge.", "ascent": "Geoff Bartram, Ben Read, Jan 1979." }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/main-divide-of-the-southern-alps/douglas-pk/south-face/ayres-ridge", "name": "Ayres Ridge", "grade": "4+,V", "topo_ref": "11.65", "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": "4+", "commitment": "V", "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": null } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": "An unrelenting ridge between Mt Haidinger and Douglas Peak, with many rock towers varying in soundness. The final rise to the summit of Douglas is probably the hardest section and can be avoided on the east.\nIn 1977, Dave McNulty described this as the most technically sustained section of the Elie to Harper Saddle traverse, a view affirmed by Phil Penney and Allan Uren during their 1990 winter traverse.", "ascent": "Harry Ayres, Bruce Gillies, Feb 1953" } ], "places": [], "image": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/wide/public/image/ATP%20Climbnz%20Douglas%20South%20Face.jpg.jpg?itok=lNRMzlki", "images": [ { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/wide/public/image/ATP%20Climbnz%20Douglas%20South%20Face.jpg.jpg?itok=lNRMzlki", "height": "807", "width": "1090" } ] } ], "image": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/wide/public/image/Markus%2520photos%2520044%5B1%5D.JPG?itok=42qUMDAQ", "images": [ { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/wide/public/image/Markus%2520photos%2520044%5B1%5D.JPG?itok=42qUMDAQ", "height": "500", "width": "900" } ] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki/main-divide/mt-haidinger": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki/main-divide/mt-haidinger", "name": "Mt Haidinger", "altitude": "3070m", "access": null, "description": null, "latlng": [ "-43.5513666", "170.1996679" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki/main-divide/mt-haidinger/east-face-route", "name": "East Face Route", "grade": "3", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "3", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "Climb the ridge immediately north of the Haast Glacier, overcoming a final large bump to reach the Upper Haast Glacier. From here the route heads up the snowface onto the South Ridge. Other more difficult routes may exist to the right on the upper face." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Dick Strong, Keith Thompson, Dec 1970" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki/main-divide/mt-haidinger/east-spur", "name": "East Spur", "grade": "3+", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "3+", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "This consists of a 400m buttress of relatively loose rock, dropping from the North Peak. The spur has been gained by two routes.\r\ni) Via a rock and scree rib separating the two arms of the Kaufmann Glacier.\r\n\t\r\nii) Up scree and rock south of the Forrest-Ross Glacier to a small snow basin." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "i) D C Ball, Bob Cunninghame, Jan 1960." }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki/main-divide/mt-haidinger/east-ridgenorth-east-face", "name": "East Ridge/North East Face", "grade": "3", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "3", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "These short 350m routes are gained by climbing scree slopes and a rotten ridge onto Emas Dome, then dropping to Forrest-Ross Glacier n\u00e9v\u00e9. Cross the n\u00e9v\u00e9 to gain either the ridge or the face that meets the Main Divide, some distance north of the North Peak." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Jack Clarke, J R Simpson, Mar 1913." }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki/main-divide/mt-haidinger/pahiatua-haidinger-douglas-col", "name": "Pahiatua (Haidinger-Douglas Col)", "grade": "3,II,3", "topo_ref": "11.66", "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": "3", "commitment": "II", "mtcook": "3", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "From the Albert N\u00e9v\u00e9 ascend the snow slopes left of the West Face routes." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Joe Fluerty, Mark Lysons, M H Williams, Feb 1934 (Descended)." }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki/main-divide/mt-haidinger/west-ridge", "name": "West Ridge", "grade": "3", "topo_ref": "11.69", "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "3", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": null } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": "From the n\u00e9v\u00e9, gain the rounded rib beside the west face, head up easy mixed ground, and trend out left to finish up the same summit gullies as the west face routes.", "ascent": "First ascent party unknown." }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki/main-divide/mt-haidinger/albino-merino", "name": "Albino Merino", "grade": "4,II,4", "topo_ref": "11.70", "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": "4", "commitment": "II", "mtcook": "4", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": null } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": "The couloir between the West and South Ridges.", "ascent": "Dave Crow, Lyn Bowering, Sep 1985." }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki/main-divide/mt-haidinger/south-ridge", "name": "South Ridge", "grade": "3,II,3-", "topo_ref": "11.71", "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": "3", "commitment": "II", "mtcook": "3-", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "If climbed from Governor Col, a step halfway along the ridge must be ascended, otherwise the ridge is fairly straightforward (beware of cornices) until the last 100m of rock, which if iced, can be tackled either by traversing out slightly on the East Face or up the couloir to the west." } ], "quality": 1, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": "Very popular, and the most common way up Mt Haidinger. It is also the recommended descent route. The ridge is fairly straightforward (but beware of cornices) until the last 100m of rock, which if iced can be tackled either by traversing out slightly on the east face or up the couloir to the west. The ridge can be gained at many points. The usual routes are:\n(i) The ridge can be gained at many points. The most elegant way lies up the ar\u00eate which reaches the ridge 400m before the summit.\n(ii) Along the divide from Governor Col, which involves a step halfway along the ridge must be ascended, otherwise the ridge is fairly straightforward (beware of cornices) until the last 100m of rock, which if iced, can be tackled either by traversing out slightly on the East Face or up the couloir to the west.", "ascent": "Jack Clarke, Edward FitzGerald, Mattias Zurbriggen, Feb 1895. via Glacier Dome" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki/main-divide/mt-haidinger/please-delte-see-1171-south-ridge-variant", "name": "PLEASE DELTE see 11.71 South Ridge, Variant", "grade": null, "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "The most elegant way lies up the ar\u00eate which reaches the ridge 400m before the summit." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Joe Fluerty, Mark Lysons, M H Williams, Feb 1934." } ], "places": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/main-divide-of-the-southern-alps/haidinger/west-face", "name": "West Face", "altitude": null, "access": null, "description": "Classic climbs. Many variations exist on the face. The far left buttress, the gully between the buttresses, and a narrow gully right of the Right Buttress have all been climbed. The most prominent routes are:", "latlng": null, "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/main-divide-of-the-southern-alps/haidinger/west-face/left-buttress", "name": "Left Buttress", "grade": "10,3+,III,3+", "topo_ref": "11.67", "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": "3+", "commitment": "III", "mtcook": "3+", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": "10", "description": null } ], "quality": 1, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": "From the n\u00e9v\u00e9, 200m of pleasant scrambling on good rock (crux 10), followed by 40-degree snow slopes and final exit gullies onto the South Summit. Superb.", "ascent": "Jim Jolly, John Stanton, Dec 1969." }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/main-divide-of-the-southern-alps/haidinger/west-face/right-buttress", "name": "Right Buttress", "grade": "12,4,III,4-", "topo_ref": "11.68", "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": "4", "commitment": "III", "mtcook": "4-", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": "12", "description": "Excellent rock climbing, best followed up a weakness on the right side (crux 12), although the centre of the buttress has been used (crux 15). Follow the snow slope to exit onto the South Summit." } ], "quality": 1, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": "This route has excellent rock climbing. It\u2019s best to follow a weakness on the right side (crux 12), although the centre of the buttress has been used (crux 15). Follow the snow slope to exit onto the South Summit. In 1967, this route was a major psychological breakthrough in face climbing and was heralded as a classic.", "ascent": "John Andrews, Graeme Dingle, Peter Gough, George Harris, Murray Jones, Dec 1967." } ], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] } ], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki/spencer-glacier/mt-elie-de-beaumont-west-pk": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki/spencer-glacier/mt-elie-de-beaumont-west-pk", "name": "Mt Elie de Beaumont West Pk", "altitude": "3054m", "access": null, "description": null, "latlng": [ "-43.47796149", "170.32310486" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki/spencer-glacier/mt-elie-de-beaumont-west-pk/east-pk", "name": "From East Pk", "grade": "3+", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "3+", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "A highly recommended and exhilarating addition to climbing the main summit of Mt Elie de Beaumont. From the main summit, descend and head west along a sharp, very exposed, undulating ar\u00eate, traversing around a number of gendarmes, usually on the south side, before reaching the West Peak." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Mick Bowie, Colin Wyatt, July 1936" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki/spencer-glacier/mt-elie-de-beaumont-west-pk/north-ridge", "name": "North Ridge", "grade": "3+", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "3+", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "The climb is complex. It is usually gained via the Johannes Glacier, which is best reached from the lower Burton via a stream bed and couloir on the true left of the tip of the Johannes Glacier. The North Ridge has been climbed from above the upper Johannes Glacier icefall. The ridge consists of steep but pleasant rock climbing." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Dave Bamford, Peter Fullerton, George Kendall, John Nankervis, February 1978" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki/spencer-glacier/mt-elie-de-beaumont-west-pk/north-ridge-upper", "name": "North Ridge (upper)", "grade": null, "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "The climb is complex. It is usually gained via the Johannes Glacier, which is best reached from the lower Burton via a stream bed and couloir on the true left of the tip of the Johannes Glacier. A more intricate route begins on the upper North Ridge, crosses the prominent spur between the North and West Ridges into a couloir, and up the last 200m of the North Ridge." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "D A Carty, Jack Cox, G Somerville, December 1936" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki/spencer-glacier/mt-elie-de-beaumont-west-pk/west-ridge", "name": "West Ridge", "grade": "3", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "3", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "This ridge is gained from the southern edge of the Johannes Glacier, which is best reached from the lower Burton via a stream bed and couloir on the true left of the tip of the Johannes Glacier. On the last 500m the route leaves the ridge and follows snow leads out onto the great slab above the Montague Glacier, until the upper part of the spur between the Montague and Spencer glaciers is reached. It is a further l00m to the summit." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "D E Cooper, D R Lowe, J H Leonard, M Lucas, R Watts, December 1959;" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki/spencer-glacier/mt-elie-de-beaumont-west-pk/montague-spur", "name": "Montague Spur", "grade": "3+", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "3+", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "Gain the ridge separating the upper Spencer and Montague Glaciers (good bivouac sites here), head up the edge of the Montague N\u00e9v\u00e9, and onto the large schist slab dropping from the West Peak. Continue up steepening snow to the left of the rib before moving right again onto the rib, which is followed to the West Peak." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Peter Coradine, Ian Jowett, December 1970" } ], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki/balfour-range/mt-magellan": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki/balfour-range/mt-magellan", "name": "Magellan", "altitude": "3049m", "access": null, "description": "tba", "latlng": [ "-43.57094527", "170.1421751" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki/balfour-range/mt-magellan/teichelmann", "name": "Via Teichelmann", "grade": "3", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "3", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "Traverse a sharp ar\u00eate out to a prominent rock tower (not the summit), then down and along another sharp ar\u00eate. A longer climb than it looks." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Harry Ayres, Bruce Gillies, D G Herron, Ed Hillary, Feb 1955." }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki/balfour-range/mt-magellan/south-face", "name": "South Face", "grade": "4", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "4", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "Ascend a prominent rib that starts from the n\u00e9v\u00e9 below the summit and leads out to the right of the summit. A short wall in the middle of the rib can be turned on the left. First climbed when well covered in snow." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Gordon Hasell, E R B Graham, T A Nuttall, Jan 1957." }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki/balfour-range/mt-magellan/beuzenberg-braun-elwert", "name": "Beuzenberg/ Braun-Elwert", "grade": "3", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "3", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "Traverse a sharp ar\u00eate west from Mt Teichelmann to a prominent rock tower (this is not the summit), then down and along another sharp ar\u00eate. Other than abseiling the \"Anyone Can Play Guitar\" Route into the Balfour, this is the easiest way off Magellan. Also see the Via Teichelmann Route." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Erica Beuzenberg, Gottlieb Braun-Elwert, Jun 1989." }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki/balfour-range/mt-magellan/outlier-buttress", "name": "Outlier Buttress", "grade": "14,4", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "4", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": "14", "description": "A prominent rib leading onto the knob between Mts Teichelmann and Magellan is climbed by way of a crack system up the centre (crux 14)." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": "This peak is higher in altitude than Mt Magellen and has a decently hard route from the Balfour side to confirm that it is an fact a genuine peak by itself.", "ascent": "Merv English, Peter Hillary, Nov 1976." }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki/balfour-range/mt-magellan/balfour-buttress", "name": "Balfour Buttress", "grade": "15,4+", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "4+", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": "15", "description": "Start at the toe of the buttress, beside an icefall, or from ramps to the right (which lead from the Magellan-Drake snow apron). Sustained climbing on excellent rock leads up with the climb slowly relenting (crux grade 15). Descend by either abseiling the \" Anyone Can Play Guitar\" Route or traverse to Teichelmann." } ], "quality": 1, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Stu Allan, Jim Jolly, Feb 1976." } ], "places": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki/balfour-range/magellan/west-face", "name": "West Face", "altitude": null, "access": null, "description": "All Routes start from the Balfour Neve. The following three routes start from the Magellan-Drake snow apron. The large schrund is usually best dealt with at the Magellan end. The routes are described left to right. Once on the snow apron, follow the base of the West Face.\nThe route following the obvious corner, where the West Face meets the Drake-Magellan ridge, is Pooh Corner. Starting from a small ledge just left of Pooh Corner is: Anyone Can Play Guitar.", "latlng": null, "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki/balfour-range/magellan/west-face/m%C3%A9nage-%C3%A0-trois", "name": "M\u00e9nage \u00e0 trois", "grade": "20,6+", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "6+", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": "20", "description": "Climb the distinctive ascending buttresses that scar the centre of the face. This route starts off the snow at a point about half-way along the base of the face. There are three bolts on the route, which arrives on the Balfour Buttress about 70m from the summit. Descend by rapping the \"Anyone Can Play Guitar\" Route. This is a sustained route (crux 20)." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Alex Palman, Peter Dickson, Nick Flyvbjerg, Jan 1996." }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki/balfour-range/magellan/west-face/anyone-can-play-guitar", "name": "Anyone Can Play Guitar", "grade": "21,6+,III,6-", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": "6+", "commitment": "III", "mtcook": "6-", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": "21", "description": "This route follows the steepest and cleanest rock on the face, directly to the summit. The steep \u2018punch\u2013in-the-guts\u2019 first pitch is the crux and thereafter the route relents. There are bolt belays on every pitch, allowing this route to serve as an abseil descent - two 50m ropes are mandatory" } ], "quality": 1, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Alex Palman, Nick Flyvbjerg, Jan 1995." }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki/balfour-range/magellan/west-face/pooh-corner", "name": "Pooh Corner", "grade": "19,5+", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "5+", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": "19", "description": "From the snow, climb up blocky ledges to a small orange belay ledge (bolt) about 5m left of the base of the corner. This belay also serves the \" Anyone Can Play Guitar \" Route, to the left, on the face proper, and is a good spot to leave ice tools and plastic boots. Climb the three-star sweeping corner for eight pitches. The route arrives high on the Drake-Magellan ridge, about two pitches from the summit. There are single bolt belays on the first 8 pitches (mostly 13-16, crux of 19 may be avoidable). Descend by rapping \"Anyone Can Play Guitar\"" } ], "quality": 1, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Alex Palman, Peter Dickson, Nick Flyvbjerg, Jan 1996." }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki/balfour-range/magellan/west-face/magellan-drake-col", "name": "Magellan-Drake Col", "grade": "4", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "4", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "A thin edge of rock leads up on the Magellan side of the dark gut. Once on the col, the ridge up to Magellan has better rock." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Dave Bamford, John Nankervis, Ian Whitehouse, Brin Williman, Feb 1980." } ], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] } ], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki/main-divide/malaspina": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki/main-divide/malaspina", "name": "Malaspina", "altitude": "3042m", "access": null, "description": "A prominent gully north of Malaspina may provide a quick alternative to the route to the Grand Plateau over Clarke Saddle. See Clarke Saddle and the \"Via Clarke Saddle\" Route of Mt Teichelmann/Rakirua.", "latlng": [ "-43.5782887", "170.1452623" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki/main-divide/malaspina/west-ridge", "name": "West Ridge", "grade": "3+", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "3+", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "Ascend a rock ridge onto a major bump in the ridge. Then across a sweeping snow saddle to a final buttress of four rope lengths which lead to the summit." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "David Elphick, M White, Feb 1957 (Lower section)." } ], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki/main-divide/mt-aigrette": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki/main-divide/mt-aigrette", "name": "Mt Aigrette", "altitude": "3040m", "access": null, "description": "An easy climb from the Divide or from the Franz Josef N\u00e9v\u00e9.\nFrank Alack, Katie Gardiner, Mar 1937.", "latlng": [ "-43.50856996", "170.2725436" ], "routes": [], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki/main-divide/minarets": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki/main-divide/minarets", "name": "Minarets", "altitude": "3040m", "access": null, "description": "The Minarets are two peaks, west (3031m) and east (3040m).", "latlng": [ "-43.50856996", "170.2725436" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki/main-divide/minarets/original-standard-route", "name": "Original (Standard) Route", "grade": "1+,III", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": "1+", "commitment": "III", "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "A short snow climb from the plateau between Mt De La Beche and the Minarets. The plateau is reached by the West Ridge of De La Beche, De La Beche Ridge, or the West Face of the Minarets. The technical grade is from the plateau." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Tom Fyfe, Malcolm Ross, February 1897" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki/main-divide/minarets/ranfurly-glacier", "name": "Ranfurly Glacier", "grade": "2,III", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": "2", "commitment": "III", "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "From the Tasman Glacier there are a number of variations ascending the glacier. This route is highly dependent on favourable crevasse conditions." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Freda Du Faur, Laurence Earle, Peter Graham, B Spencer, January 1910" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki/main-divide/minarets/north-east-ridge", "name": "North East Ridge", "grade": "2+,IV", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": "2+", "commitment": "IV", "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "A long climb, usually approached along the Main Divide via Mt Coronet, Mt Meeson, Mt Vic and Mt Gold Smith. The ridge crest can be followed except for one or two places where a traverse on the west is necessary." } ], "quality": 1, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Harry Ayres, Mick Bowie, F F Simmons, January 1938" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki/main-divide/minarets/north-west-face", "name": "North West Face", "grade": "3+,III", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": "3+", "commitment": "III", "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "From the Geikie Snowfield, traverse around onto one of the feeder arms of the Spencer Glacier and ascend the prominent rock face onto the West Minaret via a series of interconnecting snow ramps that start at the centre of the face (400m of mixed climbing). The ramps steepen towards the top and finish three to four easy rope lengths west of the summit." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Dave Bamford, Jim Strang, March 1979" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki/main-divide/minarets/west-face", "name": "West Face", "grade": "2+,III", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": "2+", "commitment": "III", "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "From north of Graham Saddle ascend the prominent snowslopes to the saddle between De La Beche and the Minarets. There can be large schrunds at any time of year on this face, which involves sustained 40-degree snow slopes. The rock spurs nearer De la Beche have also been used. It's also possible to traverse the steep slopes under De La Beche and above the Rudolph Glacier, arriving high on the De La Beche Ridge." } ], "quality": 1, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Hugh Chambers, Jack Clarke, February 1912 (descended)" } ], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aspiring/main-divide/mt-aspiring-tititea": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aspiring/main-divide/mt-aspiring-tititea", "name": "Mt Aspiring Tititea", "altitude": "3033m", "access": "Mount Aspiring is usually reached from Pearl Flat.\nFrench Ridge Hut can be used as a base to climb the South West Ridge and South Face, Is the preferred route.\nBevan Col accesses Colin Todd Hut, which can be used as a base for the North Buttress, North West Ridge, South West Ridge and the Haast Range.\nIn winter or early spring it is generally better to use the French Ridge access routes to get to the Bonar Glacier. After the spring avalanche cycle, or when the Quarterdeck becomes impassable, use the Bevan Col route.", "description": null, "latlng": [ "-44.38395367", "168.72756052" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aspiring/main-divide/mt-aspiring-tititea/coxcomb-ridge", "name": "Coxcomb Ridge", "grade": "V,3+", "topo_ref": "11", "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": "V", "mtcook": "3+", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "The first ascent of this long impressive ridge was made by Roy Beedham and Stuart Holmes on January 11, 1953. Two years previously, however, what very nearly turned out to be a successful ascent was made by D W Peacock, N O\u2019Neill and M Pemberton, more or less by accident. After reaching a point estimated to be about 70 metres below the summit at 7pm they elected to retreat, eventually bivvying on the ridge at about 2835m, before returning to French Ridge the next day, minus success and the seats of their trousers. A few days later, having reached the summit by a more orthodox route, they were ruefully able to identify the point they had reached.\r\nThe ridge is reached from the head of the Bonar at a snow col just west of Pope\u2019s Nose. A lower set of gendarmes are rather rotten, but above these the quality of the rock improves. Most parties have preferred to keep to the northern side of the ridge as much as possible to avoid verglas. Near the top of the lower section of gendarmes is a prominent overhang, which has been turned on either side. The overhang is followed by a long snow ar\u00eate, towards the top of which the Coxcomb is joined by the North East Ridge. Above this is a further series of gendarmes separated by snow or ice ar\u00eates and including a three metre drop which is usually jumped, or can be rappelled if necessary, before a final short snow ar\u00eate leads to the summit. \r\nTimes for the route vary greatly. The ridge has been climbed in 5 hours; however, most competent parties in ropes of two could expect to take about 8\u20139 hours." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Roy Beedham & Stuart Holmes, Jan 1953." }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aspiring/main-divide/mt-aspiring-tititea/north-east-ridge-surgeon-spur", "name": "North East Ridge (Surgeon Spur)", "grade": "IV,3", "topo_ref": "15", "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": "IV", "mtcook": "3", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "The North East Ridge separates the Volta from the Therma Glacier. It was first climbed independently by two parties, Lindsay Bruce, Ian Bagley, Brian Wilkins, and Reg Scott, from Otago; and Dick Tornquist, Ivan Pickens, Jack Rattenbury, and J D Rockell, from Auckland, on January 4, 1955. The Otago party spent four nights out, two in a snow cave where the ridge meets the Coxcomb. To add to their discomfort they received shocks during an electrical storm. \r\nThe whole epic makes absorbing reading and may have deterred subsequent attempts. However the third party on the climb found the route to be both practicable and enjoyable. It should be noted that the ridge merges with the upper part of the Coxcomb and that the most difficult pitches occur on the latter.\r\nAccess from the top of Shipowner Ridge is by traversing the basin of the upper Therma and then up easy crevassed slopes to where the ridge is gained, either by the highest continuous snow tongue on to the ridge or by slabby pitches above a large rock tower, two to three hours from the hut. The ridge is exposed and generally of shattered rock; however, a long sidle on the eastern (Volta) side, about 15 metres below the ridge crest, allows many of the steeper pitches of the lower part of the ridge to be avoided. A more difficult section occurs higher up, before 200 metres of steep snow lead on to the Coxcomb Ridge. The remaining part of the Coxcomb appears to require at least as much time as the North East Ridge. The climb, including a descent by the North West Ridge has been done in 12 hours." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": null }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aspiring/main-divide/mt-aspiring-tititea/north-buttress", "name": "North Buttress", "grade": "13,III,3", "topo_ref": "18", "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": "III", "mtcook": "3", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": "13", "description": "The North Buttress is a strangely neglected route, offering as it does a direct and exacting rock climb on the sunny face of the mountain, with amazing views of the ocean as you\u2019re climbing. \r\nFrom the crest of Shipowner Ridge descend into the upper basin of the Therma Glacier and cross easy crevassed slopes to the foot of the buttress. Easy slabs soon steepen to a 60 degree prominent light grey band, the top of which is about a third of the way up the climb. Cross the slabs going from right to left and go across a ledge which is very exposed over the North Face. Then follow the crest of the buttress. A series of gullies on the North Face should be on your left. Near the top of the buttress broken rock just to the east of the ridge crest is followed by a short pitch of snow before the final rock step, which is turned by shallow gullies on the east. A short snow or ice slope then leads directly to the summit. The rock grade is about 13 and if it gets any harder than that then you are possibly off route. When the buttress is iced up with riming the mixed climbing is good. Beware of falling ice. \r\nThe first ascent began as a reconnaissance, but even with a three-man rope the climb was completed from the foot of the buttress in the remarkable time of 3 1/2 hours." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Peter Robinson, Dick Irvin, Roland Rodda, January 1956" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aspiring/main-divide/mt-aspiring-tititea/south-west-ridge", "name": "South West Ridge", "grade": "III,3+", "topo_ref": "27", "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": "III", "mtcook": "3+", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "This is one of the classic climbs of the Southern Alps. The ridge is gained from the Bonar glacier, normally by its western flank at any convenient point below the rock band. About 150m below the summit, the ridge runs out into a steep open couloir, in which steep ice or even steep rock is often encountered, which nowadays is 80 degrees, before the ice cap and summit ridge are reached. \r\nAbove the crux step there are about two 55\u201360 degree exposed pitches of potentially delicate snow and ice climbing to where the ridge joins the North West Ridge. \r\nThis route is exposed to very cold wind so it's important to carry more clothes than you would normally expect." } ], "quality": 3, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Harry Stevenson, Doug Dick, David Lewis, December 1936" } ], "places": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/main-divide-of-the-southern-alps/mt-aspiring/south-face", "name": "South Face", "altitude": null, "access": null, "description": "The first ascent of the South Face was made by Pete Moore and Revill Bennett on Christmas Eve, 1971. The climb commenced as a reconnaissance in deteriorating weather at 2pm and was concluded, 12 hours later, in a snowstorm. A bivouac was attempted on the face but in the absence of adequate bivvy gear it was soon abandoned and the climb continued.\nSubsequent attempts to dig in were also abandoned due to cold and lack of food and the descent was eventually commenced at 2am, French Ridge Hut being regained at 9am.\nThe second ascent was made by Bill Denz and Limbo Thompson in early May 1972. They started up the face at 1pm bivvying as darkness fell, about 50 metres below the upper part of the Coxcomb Ridge before completing the climb and returning to French Ridge the next day.\nA direct finish to the route was made by Moore and Bennett in August, 1973. A variation including the lower rock band was climbed by Ken Hyslop and Neil Whiston in January 1976.", "latlng": null, "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/main-divide-of-the-southern-alps/mt-aspiring/south-face/original-line", "name": "Original Line", "grade": "IV,4", "topo_ref": "1", "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": "IV", "mtcook": "4", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "This route on the South Face involves a climb of 530m from the foot of the face. It generally parallels the South West Ridge up a series of small snow ramps and intervening rock steps, until below the very steep rock face directly beneath the summit. Here there is a prominent snow ar\u00eate which is crossed and a rising traverse is followed until the exit gullies are reached. There are a number of these all of a similar grade." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Pete Moore, Revill Bennett, December 1971" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/main-divide-of-the-southern-alps/mt-aspiring/south-face/denz-thompson", "name": "Denz Thompson", "grade": "IV,4", "topo_ref": "2", "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": "IV", "mtcook": "4", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "Denz and Thompson turned the bottom rock band by way of the ice cliffs above the schrund at the western end of the rock band. The upper part of the route sidles beneath the summit rock face until better angled ice slopes lead out on to the snow ar\u00eate of the upper Coxcomb, about 50m below the summit." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Bill Denz, Limbo Thompson, May 1972" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/main-divide-of-the-southern-alps/mt-aspiring/south-face/quite-direct", "name": "Quite Direct", "grade": "IV,5", "topo_ref": "3", "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": "IV", "mtcook": "5", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "A direct finish variation which avoids any sidling and tops out on the summit. When the prominent snow ar\u00eate below the summit rock band is reached go straight up and climb a narrow five metre ice pillar sandwiched between a slab on the left and an overhanging wall on the right. Then there are 3-4 pitches up a gully which ends on the summit." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Allan Uren, October 1993" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/main-divide-of-the-southern-alps/mt-aspiring/south-face/santa-claws", "name": "Santa Claws", "grade": "IV,5", "topo_ref": "4", "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": "IV", "mtcook": "5", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "An ice climb on the leftmost part of the South Face. Start as for route 1 but continue directly up to the schist headwall above (rather than following the right tending ramps of 1 & 2). At the headwall follow a ramp that climbs rightward. At the top of this a rock and ice chimney (crux) breaks through the headwall to join the Summit Ridge. Cross over this ridge into the gully at the top of the South West Ridge and continue up easy ground to the summit. Completed in 52 hours return from Christchurch." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Alex Palman, Daniel Druce, July 1995" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/main-divide-of-the-southern-alps/mt-aspiring/south-face/mixed-aspirations", "name": "Mixed Aspirations", "grade": "IV,5+", "topo_ref": "5", "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": "IV", "mtcook": "5+", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "This is a fine line tackling the bottom rock band at its proudest point. The rock band is the most difficult climbing and is generally of a mixed nature. At about three quarters height the route joins the other routes and finishes up the Moore direct finish. 12 pitches." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Pete O\u2019Connor, Bruce Hasler, summer 1997" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/main-divide-of-the-southern-alps/mt-aspiring/south-face/24-hour-party-people", "name": "24 Hour Party People", "grade": "IV,5+", "topo_ref": "6", "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": "IV", "mtcook": "5+", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "A reasonably direct line that climbs through the overhangs in the middle of the South Face. It exited up \"Perspiring\" about 2 hours after it had been ascended.\r\nED2 Scottish VII" } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "James Edwards, Kev Neal, Oliver Metherell, January 19, 2005" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/main-divide-of-the-southern-alps/mt-aspiring/south-face/whiston-hyslop-line", "name": "Whiston Hyslop Line", "grade": "IV,5+", "topo_ref": "7", "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": "IV", "mtcook": "5+", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "Starts out right through the bottom rock band onto the ice field mid-height, then angles back left diagonal towards the summit and the normal exit gullies. About 10 pitches were climbed after the rock band." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Neil Whiston, Ken Hyslop, January 1976" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/main-divide-of-the-southern-alps/mt-aspiring/south-face/perspiring", "name": "Perspiring", "grade": "5+", "topo_ref": "P", "image": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/route/thecrag%20photo%2025073743.jpeg?itok=TWDUF_fQ", "images": [ { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/route/thecrag%20photo%2025073743.jpeg?itok=TWDUF_fQ", "height": "244", "width": "325" } ], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "5+", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "Starts up obvious ramp ( Scottish 4) to the R of the lower rock band. Traverses L then exits onto the Coxcomb where indicated." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Chris Fox, Howie McGhie January 19, 2005" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/main-divide-of-the-southern-alps/mt-aspiring/south-face/shooting-star", "name": "Shooting Star", "grade": "5+,WI3,M4", "topo_ref": "S", "image": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/route/South%20Face%20Shooting%20Star%20Topo.jpg?itok=8YR-ZshK", "images": [ { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/route/South%20Face%20Shooting%20Star%20Topo.jpg?itok=8YR-ZshK", "height": "247", "width": "325" } ], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "5+", "aid": null, "ice": "WI3", "mixed": "M4", "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "Start as for Perspiring. Climb through the lower rock band, follow gully and then gradually traverse left until under obvious notch. Head up through some ice/mixed pitches and exit at the obvious notch at the coxcomb.\r\n\r\n12 x 60m pitches plus four pitches along the Coxcomb ridge. Cruxes pitche 1 WI3 & M3, Pitch 3 WI3+ & M4, Pitch 10 WI3+ & M3, Pitch 12 M4\r\n\r\n8-12 ice screws, single set of cams 0 - 2, single set of wires 1 - 7, 8-12 draws." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Daniel Joll, Ben Dare, September 2014" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/main-divide-of-the-southern-alps/mt-aspiring/south-face/shooting-thar", "name": "Shooting Thar", "grade": "5+,IV", "topo_ref": null, "image": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/routes/Aspiring%20South%20Face%20Photo.jpeg?itok=8b8CpBVu", "images": [ { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/routes/Aspiring%20South%20Face%20Photo.jpeg?itok=8b8CpBVu", "height": "218", "width": "325" } ], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": "5+", "commitment": "IV", "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": null } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": "A deep-winter linkup from the Whiston-Hyslop start to a new finish between Shooting Star and Thule. FA involved descent down the NW/Ramp via the Coxcomb. Generally WI2/3 climbing (in condition) other than the beautiful 60m crux pitch - a WI3 hose, with three vertical mixed steps at WI4+ / M5. Route is defined by the large chockstone visible in the middle of the flow, which breaks the second rock band - the start of the crux pitch moves around this to the right - belaying underneath is recommended for overhead on the crux. FA gear: Nuts (8 - 13), Cams & Tricams (x6 to #2), Screws (x12), 2-3 Blades. 15 - 18hrs on FA.", "ascent": "Ruari Macfarlane, George Loomes, July 2020" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/main-divide-of-the-southern-alps/mt-aspiring/south-face/thales", "name": "Thales", "grade": null, "topo_ref": "T", "image": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/route/Aspiring%20South%20Face%20Photo.jpeg?itok=QWbXsBwA", "images": [ { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/route/Aspiring%20South%20Face%20Photo.jpeg?itok=QWbXsBwA", "height": "218", "width": "325" } ], "length": null, "pitches": [], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Janette Heung, Lukas Kirchner, September 2016" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/main-divide-of-the-southern-alps/mt-aspiring/south-face/leo-hugo", "name": "Leo Hugo", "grade": "IV,5", "topo_ref": "8", "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": "IV", "mtcook": "5", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "Starts just left of The Shiny Beast, linking together two ice ramps." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Antoine Cayrol, Francois Bernard, December 2002" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/main-divide-southern-alps/mt-aspiring/south-face/shiny-beast", "name": "Shiny Beast", "grade": "5,IV", "topo_ref": "9", "image": null, "images": [], "length": "0m", "pitches": [ { "alpine": "5", "commitment": "IV", "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": null } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": "0", "natural_pro": false, "description": "A steep nine pitch ice route. There were about four pitches through the bottom rock band and then a couple of easier pitches that were climbed simultaneously. Then a mixed pitch to join the Coxcomb about halfway along the ridge. Required a bivvy just below the \u2018Coxcomb\u2019. The Beast being the ice; it was green and glistening but good to climb.", "ascent": "Brian Weedon, Neal Whiston, December 1981" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/main-divide-of-the-southern-alps/mt-aspiring/south-face/kia-rapu-i-t%C5%8Dku-m%C4%81ramatanga-seeking", "name": "Kia rapu i t\u014dku m\u0101ramatanga [Seeking the Light]", "grade": "IV,5,WI3,M4", "topo_ref": null, "image": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/routes/Aspiring-South-Face-GLP3867-Pano-1_0.jpg?itok=YTFRNfUm", "images": [ { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/routes/Aspiring-South-Face-GLP3867-Pano-1_0.jpg?itok=YTFRNfUm", "height": "189", "width": "325" }, { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/routes/_GLP3883.jpg?itok=veGQnWWZ", "height": "217", "width": "325" } ], "length": "300m", "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": "IV", "mtcook": "5", "aid": null, "ice": "WI3", "mixed": "M4", "length": "300m", "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "5 pitches (60m). A short 6th pitch can be avoided if you begin belaying above the schrund. Pick your way up and along a right leaning shallow groove with mixed moves on the first pitch, until you can move up and left to gain a consistent ice flow in the second. Near vertical sections through the rest of the climb easing on the final pitch and trending right to gain the ridge. \r\nGear: 10 x ice screws. Bring mainly shorter screws as this route is likely to have thinner ice than its neighbours." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": "A tricky start with some mixed moves, this line begins to the left of Chocolate Fish and climbs straight up to the Coxcomb Ridge.", "ascent": "Sooji Clarkson, Gavin Lang 27th July 2020" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/main-divide-of-the-southern-alps/mt-aspiring/south-face/chocolate-fish-route", "name": "Chocolate Fish Route", "grade": "III,4", "topo_ref": "10", "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": "III", "mtcook": "4", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "This slash on the right side of the face was used as a variant start to the Coxcomb. The route is nice straight up ice climbing and a wonder-filled start to the Coxcomb. Some of the route approaches vertical but bridging eases the strain. Five full fifty-metre pitches." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Allen Uren, Clinton Beavan, summer 1997" } ], "places": [], "image": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/wide/public/image/Mount%20Aspiring%20South%20Face%202016_1.jpeg?itok=-C1RkJQr", "images": [ { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/wide/public/image/Mount%20Aspiring%20South%20Face%202016_1.jpeg?itok=-C1RkJQr", "height": "469", "width": "704" } ] }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/main-divide-of-the-southern-alps/mt-aspiring/north-face", "name": "North Face", "altitude": null, "access": null, "description": "North Face of Mt Aspiring", "latlng": null, "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/main-divide-of-the-southern-alps/mt-aspiring/north-face/original-north-face", "name": "Original North Face", "grade": "IV,3", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": "IV", "mtcook": "3", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "The North Face, described as an enjoyable climb on good rock, follows a rock rib up the centre of the face before a section of mixed climbing leads into the Coxcomb Ridge, about 600 metres below the summit. Access to the start of the climb via the Therma Glacier is rapid and easy This route and Been On A Bender are best attempted when riming on the Coxcomb is light, otherwise bombing, resembling the Blitzkrieg could be encountered." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Ken Hyslop & Don Bogie, Jan 1978." }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/main-divide-of-the-southern-alps/mt-aspiring/north-face/been-bender", "name": "Been On A Bender", "grade": "18,IV,5", "topo_ref": "17", "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": "IV", "mtcook": "5", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": "18", "description": "The climb has a brilliantly sunny aspect. It offers best conditions in late summer although access into the Therma Glacier could be a problem. It follows the less prominent rib up the face right of the Bogie/Hislop route. Eight pitches on the steep part of the face through a series of small overhangs on good rock. A further six rock pitches to the Coxcomb. Fourteen pitches in all. Fourteen hours return from Colin Todd Hut." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Mark Edgar, Brian Weedon, March 1981" } ], "places": [], "image": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/wide/public/image/Screen%20shot%202012-01-19%20at%202.37.29%20PM.jpg?itok=7hGi9kEd", "images": [ { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/wide/public/image/Screen%20shot%202012-01-19%20at%202.37.29%20PM.jpg?itok=7hGi9kEd", "height": "479", "width": "763" } ] }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/main-divide-of-the-southern-alps/mt-aspiring/north-west-ridge", "name": "North West Ridge", "altitude": null, "access": null, "description": "Variations of the North West Ridge", "latlng": null, "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/main-divide-of-the-southern-alps/mt-aspiring/north-west-ridge/original-north-west-ridge", "name": "Original North West Ridge", "grade": "III,2", "topo_ref": "19", "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": "III", "mtcook": "2", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "The North West Ridge was first climbed by Samuel Turner, Harold Hodgkinson, Jack Murrell and George Robertson on March 11, 1913, during the second ascent of the mountain. After climbing French Ridge and the Quarterdeck, they then travelled down the Bonar to reach the ridge near its junction with Shipowner Ridge. \r\nThe exposure and difficulties of the climb were subsequently greatly exaggerated by Turner, who concluded that \u2018the first climb and probably the last of Mount Aspiring\u2019s east precipices was finished\u2019. Turner was geographically disoriented; his \u2018east precipices\u2019 were actually the northern slopes of the buttress, and their route, far from being avoided, has become instead the most popular on the mountain. Nevertheless, the achievement of this party, torn as it was by acrimonious bickering and with only one experienced mountaineer in its ranks, should not be underrated. Their climb involved more than 60 hours without sleep, including a bleak benightment in a storm above the buttress before continuing the descent in rain and wind the next day. For a short time in 2008 there were some protection bolts on the lower ridge, but due to loud opposition from a majority of mountaineers they were removed." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Samuel Turner, Harold Hodgkinson, Jack Murrell and George Robertson, March 11, 1913," }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/main-divide-of-the-southern-alps/mt-aspiring/north-west-ridge/shipowner-ridge", "name": "Shipowner Ridge", "grade": "III,2", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": "III", "mtcook": "2", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "From the hut Shipowner Ridge is followed to 70m below its junction with the North West Ridge, from where easy snow immediately below the rock on the north side leads around to the lower, level, gendarme-studded section of the North West Ridge. All the gendarmes may be turned or traversed easily. As the ridge starts to rise towards the big rock step of the buttress a prominent sloping slab leads out and around on to the Therma Face. After a short, steep pitch a series of ledges and intervening rock steps may be traversed on an ascending diagonal line until the ridge is regained at the level section above the buttress (2400m). Alternatively a route may be made directly up the Therma Face of the buttress and then along the crest of the ridge. Above the buttress a broad easy angled ridge of snow or slabby rock leads to the ice cap and the short, but narrow and exposed summit ridge. This route can be accessed from the Bonar Glacier by traversing north 400m." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": null }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/main-divide-southern-alps/mt-aspiring/north-west-ridge/lower-north-west-ridge", "name": "Lower North West Ridge", "grade": "III,2", "topo_ref": "21", "image": null, "images": [], "length": "0m", "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": "III", "mtcook": "2", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": null } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": "0", "natural_pro": false, "description": "The lower section of the North West Ridge below the buttress may be avoided by descending to the Bonar from the hut and regaining the ridge at the foot of the buttress. It is doubtful if this variation is any faster than the original route , and it is certainly less interesting.", "ascent": null }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/main-divide-of-the-southern-alps/mt-aspiring/north-west-ridge/ramp", "name": "The Ramp", "grade": "III,2", "topo_ref": "22", "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": "III", "mtcook": "2", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "The lower part of the North West Ridge and the buttress may be avoided by descending to the Bonar from the hut and following up easy crevassed slopes to where a steep snow or ice ramp (45\u201355\u00b0) on the south face of the buttress leads up to the level section on the ridge above. Rock showing through on the bergschrund of the ramp may cause considerable difficulties in late summer (grade 13) and windslab avalanche conditions may be encountered from wind loading from the west at any time of the year. \r\n\u2021 This route has been the scene of several fatalities. The factors of late afternoon soft snow and a steepening slope require extra caution." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": null }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/main-divide-of-the-southern-alps/mt-aspiring/north-west-ridge/early-summer-rapid-access-ridge", "name": "Early summer rapid access to the ridge", "grade": "III,2", "topo_ref": "23", "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": "III", "mtcook": "2", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "In early summer rapid access to the ridge above the buttress may sometimes be gained by descending from the top of Shipowner Ridge into the Therma Basin and crossing easy snow below the North Face of the buttress to a point where an all snow route leads back to the ridge. This route, on the sunny face, is soon cut by schrunds as the season progresses. This is also a good descent route early season. A rappel can be made from the flat spot at 2470m.\r\nTimes for the North West Ridge vary greatly; a rapid return climb time would be 8 hours. The average is 11\u201312 hours and slow parties have been observed doing overtime up to 18 hours!" } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": null } ], "places": [], "image": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/wide/public/image/Screen%20shot%202012-01-19%20at%202.37.40%20PM.jpg?itok=vQo8hCUY", "images": [ { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/wide/public/image/Screen%20shot%202012-01-19%20at%202.37.40%20PM.jpg?itok=vQo8hCUY", "height": "478", "width": "770" } ] }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/main-divide-of-the-southern-alps/mt-aspiring/west-face", "name": "West Face", "altitude": null, "access": null, "description": "Accessed from the Bonar Glacier.", "latlng": null, "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/main-divide-of-the-southern-alps/mt-aspiring/west-face/west-couloir", "name": "West Couloir", "grade": "III,3", "topo_ref": "24", "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": "III", "mtcook": "3", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "This steep seven pitch couloir provides interesting and rapid access to the North West Shoulder in winter and early summer conditions." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": null }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/main-divide-southern-alps/mt-aspiring/west-face/forgotten-couloir", "name": "Forgotten Couloir", "grade": null, "topo_ref": "25", "image": null, "images": [], "length": "0m", "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "A pleasant, direct line up a 55\u201365 degree ice couloir topping out on the North West Ridge. In best condition from early summer to January. Approximately eight pitches." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": "0", "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": null }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/main-divide-of-the-southern-alps/mt-aspiring/west-face/west-face", "name": "West Face", "grade": "III,3", "topo_ref": "26", "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": "III", "mtcook": "3", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "The West Face, route of the first ascent of Aspiring in 1909, was not repeated until 1965, when Jill Tremain and lan Jowett made the second ascent. \r\nCross the schrund at the head of the access slopes from the Bonar Glacier and follow up the shallow gully in the centre of the face. A steep rock band cuts across the top of the face and this may be turned by climbing out, either on steep snow slopes to the North West Ridge, or by the couloir at the top of the South West Ridge" } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Major Bernard Head, Jack Clarke, Alex Graham, November 1909" } ], "places": [], "image": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/wide/public/image/Screen%20shot%202012-01-19%20at%202.37.53%20PM.jpg?itok=5SPlf7jV", "images": [ { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/wide/public/image/Screen%20shot%202012-01-19%20at%202.37.53%20PM.jpg?itok=5SPlf7jV", "height": "485", "width": "769" } ] }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/main-divide-of-the-southern-alps/mt-aspiring/north-east-face-0", "name": "North East Face", "altitude": null, "access": null, "description": "Rocky and remote.", "latlng": null, "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/main-divide-of-the-southern-alps/mt-aspiring/north-east-face-0/dave-and-richard%E2%80%99s-route", "name": "Dave and Richard\u2019s Route", "grade": "20,IV,6", "topo_ref": "12", "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": "IV", "mtcook": "6", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": "20", "description": "A quality modern rock route up an elegant buttress. The route takes a line up the buttress to the left of the North East Face following perfect crack systems. It starts on a small slab at the toe of the buttress. The problem is getting into this route. Dave and Richard rappelled down off the Coxcomb from the Bonar, a somewhat committing prospect. If snow conditions allow there is a snow ramp down off Pope\u2019s Nose but this breaks up quickly." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Dave Vass and Richard Turner, summer 1998." }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/main-divide-of-the-southern-alps/mt-aspiring/north-east-face-0/bogie-bell", "name": "Bogie Bell", "grade": "V,5", "topo_ref": "13", "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": "V", "mtcook": "5", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "The North East Face was climbed by Lindsay Bell and Don Bogie in August, 1978. Bivvys were necessary at the bottom and top of the climb. Bell and Bogie reported that due to the poor nature of the rock and the risk of stonefall, the climb would only be practicable when iced up. The route starts out to the left of the obvious ice streaks running down the middle of the face and then, when roofs are encountered traverses into the main streak, which usually has clean rock to the right of it." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Lindsay Bell, Don Bogie, August 1978" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/main-divide-of-the-southern-alps/mt-aspiring/north-east-face-0/james-langley-wags-work", "name": "James Langley Wags Work", "grade": "19,V,6", "topo_ref": "14", "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": "V", "mtcook": "6", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": "19", "description": "An excellent line that follows nine pitches of very good, weathered rock, before deteriorating as it nears the North East Ridge. Climbed in 12 x 60m pitches. To descend, the first ascent party partly descended the North East Ridge before making four 50\u201360m abseils to the glacier." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Russell Braddock, Dave Vass, summer 2003" } ], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] } ], "image": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/wide/public/image/Aspiring_SE_opt.jpeg?itok=zawL-tIO", "images": [ { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/wide/public/image/Aspiring_SE_opt.jpeg?itok=zawL-tIO", "height": "431", "width": "544" }, { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/image/Screen%20shot%202012-01-19%20at%202.37.18%20PM.jpg?itok=DTUUEgcv", "height": "202", "width": "325" } ] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki/malte-brun-range/mt-hamilton": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki/malte-brun-range/mt-hamilton", "name": "Mt Hamilton", "altitude": "3025m", "access": null, "description": "Malte Brun Range", "latlng": [ "-43.55504795", "170.32860888" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki/malte-brun-range/mt-hamilton/south-east-arete", "name": "South East Arete", "grade": "3+", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "3+", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "From the valley floor ascend the ridge out of the Baker Glacier onto a subsidiary peak. Then up the ar\u00eate to an ice bulge. Ice changes may have made this part of the climb difficult. Continue up the face to the summit. A rarely climbed but beautiful line." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Bernie Gunn, Fred Hollows, Barrie Jackson, Gillian Soper, Dec 1952" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki/malte-brun-range/mt-hamilton/west-face", "name": "West Face", "grade": "15,IV,4", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": "500m", "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": "IV", "mtcook": "4", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": "500m", "bolts": null, "trad": true, "ewbank": "15", "description": "Access this rock face from the upper Bonney Glacier, gaining the rock at a point just right of the obvious slanting gut. First ascent line trended left before following pleasant ribs to the ridge. Variable rock." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": true, "description": null, "ascent": "Tom Wilson, Steve Dowall January 2008" } ], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki-tai-poutini/main-divide/dixon-pk": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki-tai-poutini/main-divide/dixon-pk", "name": "Dixon Pk", "altitude": "3004m", "access": null, "description": "Previously known as Mt Dixon. The actual Mt Dixon (1556m) is north of the Taramakau River, near Arthur's Pass.", "latlng": [ "-43.56365353", "170.1812771" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki/tasman-glacier/grand-plateau/mt-dixon/south-ridge", "name": "South Ridge", "grade": "3-", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "3-", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "Gain the ridge either via a steep 150m slope from the Grand Plateau or via the n\u00e9v\u00e9 between Syme Ridge and Mt Dixon. Then head up a rock buttress and follow the winding ar\u00eate to the summit." } ], "quality": 1, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "F Gillett, T Newth, A Thompson, A P Thompson, M E Roberts, Dec 1936." }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki/tasman-glacier/grand-plateau/mt-dixon/south-east-face", "name": "South East Face", "grade": "3-", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "3-", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "From the Grand Plateau turn the major icecliff on the left and head up. The route usually finishes high on the South Ridge. A somewhat dangerous climb." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "B Biggs, L Duff, Dec 1973 (Possibly Jodine, Peter Holt, Jan 1973)." }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki/tasman-glacier/grand-plateau/mt-dixon/east-ridge", "name": "East Ridge", "grade": "2+", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "2+", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "Either follow the narrow broken ridge from Glacier Dome or climb up a narrow 80m gully from the Grand Plateau just beside the large icecliff. Then follow up easy slopes to the summit. The best descent route." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Dan Bryant, W A (Snow) Mace, Rod Syme, Jan 1931" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki/tasman-glacier/grand-plateau/mt-dixon/pioneer-pass", "name": "From Pioneer Pass", "grade": "2+", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "2+", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "From Pioneer Pass, climb up a snow gully onto the Haast-Dixon Ridge." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Graeme Dingle, Jill Tremain, Jan 1967." }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki/tasman-glacier/grand-plateau/mt-dixon/give-it-80", "name": "Give It 80", "grade": "4-", "topo_ref": "S43\u00b034.157\u2019 E170\u00b011.205\u2019", "image": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/route/Give%20it%2080%20route.PNG?itok=Fk7dmHEh", "images": [ { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/route/Give%20it%2080%20route.PNG?itok=Fk7dmHEh", "height": "226", "width": "325" }, { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/route/Give%20it%2080%20overall.gif?itok=3_gNZuUE", "height": "243", "width": "325" } ], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "4-", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": null } ], "quality": 2, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": "On right of 2+ East Ridge route. Follow rock-band with left traverses to a\nnear-vertical 55m ice & rock gully. This crux pitch is committing and\ndifficult to down-climb, so rest calves midway on rock jutting out on left.\nSet belay high to give leader enough rope as it top-outs onto an icy slope\n\u224830m from ridge. 4 ice-screws for crux (although this was done on 2) and\nstakes. Follow ridge to summit on left and descend via East Ridge route.", "ascent": "Unknown" } ], "places": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki/tasman-glacier/grand-plateau/mt-dixon/west-face", "name": "West Face", "altitude": null, "access": null, "description": "The n\u00e9v\u00e9 between Syme Ridge and Mt Dixon provides access to the face. The prominent routes are described, and there are a number of other variations, especially in gullies further left towards Mt Haast.", "latlng": null, "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki/tasman-glacier/grand-plateau/mt-dixon/west-face/middle-class-white-boys-get-away-rape", "name": "Middle Class White Boys Get Away With Rape", "grade": "18,4-", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "4-", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": "18", "description": "Ill-defined rock rib on left of face" } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Charlie Hobbs, Murray Ball, Dec 1986." }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki/tasman-glacier/grand-plateau/mt-dixon/west-face/left-buttress", "name": "Left Buttress", "grade": "4", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "4", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "Directly under the summit, ascend from a snow cone to gain a rock rib, which steepens in the middle before some interesting pitches on good rock below the summit." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Austin Brookes, Archie Simpson, Dec 1972." }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki/tasman-glacier/grand-plateau/mt-dixon/west-face/central-gully", "name": "Central Gully", "grade": "3+", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "3+", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "Ascend a snow couloir and ice gully to the right of the buttress and finish up rock to emerge right of the summit." } ], "quality": 1, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Merv English, Peter Hillary, Nov 1976." }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki/tasman-glacier/grand-plateau/mt-dixon/west-face/right-buttress", "name": "Right Buttress", "grade": "3+", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "3+", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "Ascend easy-angled, sound rock and finish near the top of the south ridge" } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Jon Muir, Tom Scissons, Feb 1980." }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki/tasman-glacier/grand-plateau/mt-dixon/west-face/white-spring", "name": "White Spring", "grade": "4+", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "4+", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "South ridge/west face. 300m of mostly 60o ice with some steeper ground. A winter route." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "John Fantini, Simon Parsons, Sep 1987." }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki/tasman-glacier/grand-plateau/mt-dixon/west-face/no-way-out", "name": "No way out", "grade": "18,5+,III", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": "5+", "commitment": "III", "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": "18", "description": "Begins at the base of a lobe of rock beneath the shoulder on the South Ridge. Start up a chimney (crux grade 18), head left onto the face, up an obvious grade 15 rock gully" } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Cam Grierson, Guy White Jan 1995" } ], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] } ], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki/main-divide/glacier-pk": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki/main-divide/glacier-pk", "name": "Glacier Pk", "altitude": "3002m", "access": null, "description": null, "latlng": [ "-43.538185", "170.2096635" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki/main-divide/glacier-pk/tasman-glacier-emas-dome", "name": "From Tasman Glacier/ Emas Dome", "grade": "3", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "3", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "The usual route is over Emas Dome (see East Ridge/North East Face of Haidinger) and up the elegant East Ridge ar\u00eate to the summit. It is also possible to climb the iceface north of the ridge from a small n\u00e9v\u00e9 below and north of Emas Dome." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Bill Beaven, F Gibbs, Feb 1950 (via the East Ridge)." }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki/main-divide/glacier-pk/south-east-face", "name": "South East Face", "grade": "3", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "3", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "From Emas Dome descend to the Forrest-Ross N\u00e9v\u00e9 and then find a route through the schrunds. Ascend the face, gaining the East Ridge near the summit." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "David Jewell, Jan 2001." }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki/main-divide/glacier-pk/west-ridge", "name": "West Ridge", "grade": "3+", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "3+", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "Rises in a series of rock towers inter-connected by snow ridges. Possibly a safer and more enjoyable alternative to the West Face, offering a view onto the face for descent purposes. Deceptively good." } ], "quality": 1, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "First ascent unknown." }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki/main-divide/glacier-pk/west-face", "name": "West Face", "grade": "2+", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "2+", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "From the Explorer N\u00e9v\u00e9 ascend the snowface directly to the summit, avoiding icecliffs and schrunds where necessary. This route is subject to avalanches, particularly in the afternoon. Late in summer the route can become cut off due to crevasses and schrunds. The rock rib on the right, below the Glacier-Douglas col, can provide alternative access to the snowslopes. The summit of Glacier Peak and the ridge near, can become dangerously corniced. Otherwise a straightforward climb, providing good access to and from Douglas." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Alex Graham, Henry Newton, Ebenezer Teichelmann, Jan 1907." } ], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki/malte-brun-range/mt-chudleigh": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki/malte-brun-range/mt-chudleigh", "name": "Mt Chudleigh", "altitude": "2966m", "access": null, "description": "Malte Brun Range", "latlng": [ "-43.58719581", "170.27887076" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki/malte-brun-range/mt-chudleigh/north-face", "name": "North Face", "grade": "2+", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "2+", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "From the Barkley Glacier, ascend a couloir to the low point in the ridge and climb the ridge, which is at first pinnacled and then rises steadily. The rock is loose." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Mike Andrews, Donald Cargo, Feb 1973 (Descended)." }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki/malte-brun-range/mt-chudleigh/north-face-0", "name": "North Face", "grade": "3", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "3", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "From the left side of the top of the Barkley Glacier head up a small ice ramp to the main North Face. Ascend this to join the top of the NW ridge." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "S Hancock, T Murray, Jan 1988." }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki/malte-brun-range/mt-chudleigh/north-west-ridge", "name": "North West Ridge", "grade": "2+", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "2+", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "Reached from the Barkley, Langdale, or Walpole Glaciers, the ridge turns into a pleasant snow ar\u00eate which leads high onto the mountain and is followed by a short stretch of rotten rock to the summit. A good descent route." } ], "quality": 1, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Hugh Chambers, Freda Du Faur, Jim Murphy, Jan 1911." } ], "places": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki/malte-brun-range/mt-chudleigh/east-face-of-mt-chudleigh", "name": "East Face of Mt Chudleigh", "altitude": null, "access": null, "description": "East Face of Mt Chudleigh", "latlng": null, "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki/malte-brun-range/mt-chudleigh/east-face-of-mt-chudleigh/walking-dog", "name": "Walking The Dog", "grade": "4-", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "4-", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "From the n\u00e9v\u00e9 of the Lecky Glacier ascend mixed ground on the left of the face, and then ascend and traverse right to an ar\u00eate, topped by an exit gully l00m north of the summit." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Rob Blackburne, Duncan Ritchie, Apr 1984" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki/malte-brun-range/mt-chudleigh/east-face-of-mt-chudleigh/direct-route", "name": "Direct Route", "grade": "5-", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "5-", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "This line bisects Routes \"Walking The Dog\" and \"Spaghetti Route\". Eleven pitches of snow and ice. The crux, about 80m in length, is steep mixed ground with limited protection. The route tops out slightly north, and 40m lower than the high peak." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Jono Clarke, Pete Barnes, Nov 1996" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki/malte-brun-range/mt-chudleigh/east-face-of-mt-chudleigh/spaghetti-route", "name": "Spaghetti Route", "grade": "4", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "4", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "Ascend steep mixed ground directly under the summit to gain a snowfield. Traverse left and up to gain the prominent snow ar\u00eate, and then finish up gullies to just north of the summit." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Ross Cullen, Dave Wills, Apr 1984" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki/malte-brun-range/mt-chudleigh/east-face-of-mt-chudleigh/east-ridge-variation", "name": "East Ridge Variation", "grade": "3", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "3", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "Climb onto the ridge where it begins the final sweep to the summit. Ascend for 300m and then traverse diagonally left for at least five rope lengths to finish up \"Spaghetti Route\"." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Jim Jolly, John Nankervis, Jan 1984" } ], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki/malte-brun-range/mt-chudleigh/langdale-buttress", "name": "Langdale Buttress", "altitude": "2300m", "access": null, "description": "There are some excellent short-medium length rock routes on the Langdale Buttress, situated 2hrs from the Beetham Valley, at the foot of the Mt Chudleigh\u2019s North West Ridge", "latlng": [ "-43.580456", "170.271864" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki/malte-brun-range/mt-chudleigh/langdale-buttress/mark-time", "name": "Mark Time", "grade": "16", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": "16", "description": null } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": "The long blunt arete to the left.", "ascent": "Mark Whetu" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki/malte-brun-range/mt-chudleigh/langdale-buttress/red-right-hand", "name": "Red Right Hand", "grade": null, "topo_ref": "E (Blue)", "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Kevin Boekholt, Marty Beare, 1983" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki/malte-brun-range/mt-chudleigh/langdale-buttress/big-red-engine", "name": "The Big Red Engine", "grade": "17", "topo_ref": "F (Blue)", "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": true, "ewbank": "17", "description": "Just to the right of the lowest part of the Langdale Buttress is an obvious ar\u00eate (7 pitches)." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": true, "description": null, "ascent": "Marty Beare, Rob Collister, 1988" } ], "places": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki/malte-brun-range/mt-chudleigh/langdale-buttress/tax-return-area", "name": "Tax Return Area", "altitude": null, "access": null, "description": null, "latlng": null, "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki/malte-brun-range/mt-chudleigh/langdale-buttress/tax-return-area/tax-returns", "name": "Tax Returns", "grade": "20", "topo_ref": "B (red)", "image": null, "images": [], "length": "25m", "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": "25m", "bolts": "4", "trad": true, "ewbank": "20", "description": null } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": "4", "natural_pro": true, "description": null, "ascent": "AndyTindall, January 2017" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki/malte-brun-range/mt-chudleigh/langdale-buttress/tax-return-area/red-rocket", "name": "Red Rocket", "grade": "17", "topo_ref": "C (red)", "image": null, "images": [], "length": "25m", "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": "25m", "bolts": null, "trad": true, "ewbank": "17", "description": null } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": "0", "natural_pro": true, "description": null, "ascent": "Dave Lewis, January 2017" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki/malte-brun-range/mt-chudleigh/langdale-buttress/tax-return-area/gorilla-warfare", "name": "Gorilla Warfare", "grade": "20", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": "28m", "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": "28m", "bolts": "1", "trad": true, "ewbank": "20", "description": "A technical corner climb to a roof (protected by bolt). Could place most of a double rack the gear is that good, save some small nuts for the last few move." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": "1", "natural_pro": true, "description": null, "ascent": "Mark Evans, Jonathan Gillan 2020" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki/malte-brun-range/mt-chudleigh/langdale-buttress/tax-return-area/people-smuggling", "name": "People Smuggling", "grade": null, "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": "25m", "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": "25m", "bolts": null, "trad": true, "ewbank": null, "description": "R of the 4 routes on the Tax Return Area and left of Purists Lament. More info required" } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": "0", "natural_pro": true, "description": null, "ascent": null } ], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki/malte-brun-range/mt-chudleigh/langdale-buttress/amp-hour-buttress", "name": "The Amp-hour Buttress", "altitude": null, "access": null, "description": null, "latlng": null, "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki/malte-brun-range/mt-chudleigh/langdale-buttress/amp-hour-buttress/purists-lament", "name": "Purists Lament", "grade": null, "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": "100m", "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": "100m", "bolts": "13", "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "4 pitches \u201c13 qd\u2019s and a 60m rope needed, all anchors stainless and rings, none of this fixed nuts and pitons bullshit. Superb climbing on exceptionally high quality rock.\u201d \u2013 Nick Craddock" } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": "13", "natural_pro": false, "description": "The Buttress dividing the Tax Return area from the main Amp-hour face ascending the latters left edge .", "ascent": "Nick Craddock, Guy Cotter, March 2020" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki/malte-brun-range/mt-chudleigh/langdale-buttress/amp-hour-buttress/beggar-punishment", "name": "Beggar For Punishment", "grade": "16", "topo_ref": "D (green)", "image": null, "images": [], "length": "150m", "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": "150m", "bolts": null, "trad": true, "ewbank": "16", "description": "Appears to take the left hand side of the Amp-hour wall. Little information available about the original ascent. This line was equipped for 30m abseils, Jan 2017" } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": "0", "natural_pro": true, "description": null, "ascent": "Dave Begg" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki/malte-brun-range/mt-chudleigh/langdale-buttress/amp-hour-buttress/offering", "name": "The Offering", "grade": "19", "topo_ref": null, "image": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/routes/The%20Offering%20Langdale%20Buttress.jpg?itok=5u3zdBof", "images": [ { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/routes/The%20Offering%20Langdale%20Buttress.jpg?itok=5u3zdBof", "height": "244", "width": "325" } ], "length": "191m", "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": "40m", "bolts": "10", "trad": false, "ewbank": "17", "description": "Start on the right of the arete, some slabby moves left around the corner to good holds. Bypass the first Double bolt anchors to a large ledge." }, { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": "20m", "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": "12", "description": "Straight up ridge on low angle terrain" }, { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": "25m", "bolts": "5", "trad": false, "ewbank": "14", "description": "Step left onto face, good climbing on good rock." }, { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": "28m", "bolts": "8", "trad": false, "ewbank": "17", "description": "Great face climbing, with a steep finish on juggy holds" }, { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": "28m", "bolts": "10", "trad": false, "ewbank": "19", "description": "An impeccable pitch on 5 star orange slab, move left off the belay to gain the slab, move upon rails over the small roof, amazing moves and the pitch isn\u2019t over continous grade 19 to the anchor." }, { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": "28m", "bolts": "10", "trad": false, "ewbank": "19", "description": "Climb up and left around the roof on good holds and side pulls, continue up thought provoking climbing with multiple crux sections." }, { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": "22m", "bolts": "7", "trad": false, "ewbank": "18", "description": "22m, 7 Bolts, grade 18.\r\nGreat climbing on a prominent aret / hanging block, steep off the block and commit to the roof, climb up and left to break the roof, easy climbing to the top." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": "10", "natural_pro": false, "description": "Take 10 quickdraws, 1 x 60m rope. Very good to superb quality rock. Scaled, bolted and red pointed by Mt Cook Ski Club.", "ascent": "Mt Cook Ski Club Jono Gillan, Mark Evans, Nick Craddock, March 2020" } ], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] } ], "image": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/wide/public/image/Langdale_Buttress-1.jpg?itok=WSw8GLwd", "images": [ { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/wide/public/image/Langdale_Buttress-1.jpg?itok=WSw8GLwd", "height": "1024", "width": "1024" }, { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/image/Langdale%20Buttress%20access%201.jpg?itok=bmq9uJ_C", "height": "256", "width": "325" }, { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/image/Langdale%20Buttress%202017.jpg?itok=QTxkdfWd", "height": "224", "width": "325" }, { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/image/Langdale%20Buttress_0.jpg?itok=-jnaloUK", "height": "234", "width": "325" } ] } ], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki/malte-brun-range/haeckel-pk": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki/malte-brun-range/haeckel-pk", "name": "Haeckel Pk", "altitude": "2965m", "access": null, "description": null, "latlng": [ "-43.54012614", "170.3454068" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki/malte-brun-range/haeckel-pk/north-ridge", "name": "North Ridge", "grade": "2", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "2", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "From the saddle at the head of the Darwin Glacier follow the rubbly but straightforward ridge. ." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "R M. Crockett, W G McClymont, F F Simmons, Dec 1934 (Descended)." }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki/malte-brun-range/haeckel-pk/west-face", "name": "West Face", "grade": "2+", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "2+", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "Ascend the rock spur separating a feeder glacier from the main Darwin Glacier, cross the feeder where it flattens slightly, and ascend to a square snow patch on the west face, then onto the top of the south--west ridge." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Otto Frind, Conrad Kain, Mar 1914 (Descended)." }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki/malte-brun-range/haeckel-pk/south-west-ridge", "name": "South West Ridge", "grade": "2", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "2", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "Reach the col between Hamilton and Haeckel, either from the Bonney Glacier and across the North West Ridge of Hamilton, or else ascend the lower North West Ridge; or ascend the feeder glacier of the Darwin Glacier. The rock on the ridge is loose." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Jack Clarke, Bernard Head, Jim Murphy, Jan 1912." }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki/malte-brun-range/haeckel-pk/east-ridge", "name": "East Ridge", "grade": "3-", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "3-", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "Gained either via the upper Mannering Icefall (on the rocks on the left if the icefall is broken), the Dixon Glacier, or over Rose Peak, then up easily angled snow, or rock, or both, to the summit." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "R M Crockett, W G McClymont, F F Simmons, Dec 1934" } ], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki-tai-poutini/la-perouse-glacier/drake": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki-tai-poutini/la-perouse-glacier/drake", "name": "Drake", "altitude": "2960m", "access": null, "description": null, "latlng": [ "-43.569639", "170.138556" ], "routes": [], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki/balfour-range/mt-drake": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki/balfour-range/mt-drake", "name": "Mt Drake", "altitude": "2960m", "access": null, "description": "Getting off Mt Drake.\nAbseiling the Corsair. This is probably the easiest and quickest way off \u2013 provided you have two 50m ropes. From the summit of Drake scramble west along the summit ridge for 55m to a large (~3m) rock, shaped as though it has a cap (it also has a cairn atop). Turn right and descend north for 50m of easy scrambling, following cairns. Turn west and drop down a gully/corner to a double bolt belay. From here rappel to the top of the West Wall and continue abseiling down the equipped Corsair route to the base of the wall (5 full pitches). Continue abseiling to the Satellite Buttress and the n\u00e9v\u00e9, as required.\nAbseiling the Bamaphone: This could be a useful alternative to the Corsair descent if you only have one rope. From the summit of Drake continue past the large rock (cairn atop) until the top of the Spanish Armada route can be seen. The next gully is the Bamaphone route, abseil down it. From the foot of the route cross the snow slope to the base of the West Wall and continue abseiling (~3 more pitches to the n\u00e9v\u00e9).", "latlng": [ "-42.71583037", "171.8899696" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki/balfour-range/mt-drake/east-ridge", "name": "East Ridge", "grade": "3+", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "3+", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "The ridge from Mt Magellan is steep firm rock near Magellan but deteriorates as the col is approached. The section up to Drake is steep and loose." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Paul Aubrey, Richard Pears, Jan 1981." }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki/balfour-range/mt-drake/south-face-hasellgrahamnuttall-route", "name": "South Face, Hasell/Graham/Nuttall Route", "grade": "3", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "3", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "Ascend the snowface to the left of the summit." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Gordon Hasell, E R B Graham, T A Nuttall, Jan 1957." }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki/balfour-range/mt-drake/south-face-elphicksmithwhitewilson-route", "name": "South Face, Elphick/Smith/White/Wilson Route", "grade": "3", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "3", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "Start up the short rock face to the left of the snowface, then up the rock ridge and snow ar\u00eate to the summit. A good descent route." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "David Elphick, Barry Smith, M R White, Jim Wilson, Feb 1957." }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki/balfour-range/mt-drake/west-ridge", "name": "West Ridge", "grade": "4", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "4", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "Descended as far as the final rise up to Mt Vanguard. After 500m a steep knife-edge cheval presents difficult climbing." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Anton & Paul Wopereis, Jan 1980." } ], "places": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki/balfour-range/mt-drake/north-face", "name": "North Face", "altitude": null, "access": null, "description": "All routes start from the Balfour Neve.", "latlng": null, "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki/balfour-range/mt-drake/north-face/bonaventure", "name": "Bonaventure", "grade": "19,I", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": "0m", "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": "I", "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": "19", "description": "The half-size outlier buttress on the left side of Drake. A superb quarter-day climb. From the n\u00e9v\u00e9 climb the central weakness midway between the black rock band on the right and the left hand margin of the buttress. The route is comprised of deceptively good rock. A small roof 3/4 of the way up (crux 19), is probably avoidable. Four pitches equipped with double bolt belays \u2013 abseil off." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": "0", "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Alex Palman, James Wright, Feb 1998." }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki/balfour-range/mt-drake/north-face/shogun", "name": "Shogun", "grade": "16,5+", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": "0m", "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "5+", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": "16", "description": "This is the largest and most distinctive buttress on Mt Drake. The climbing is both superb and sustained, however after the Crows Nest Ledge it relents somewhat and becomes more broken. The toe of the buttress fell away in 1998 and so access onto the buttress now looks harder (was 14). A snow ramp to the left of the buttress might offer a way. A classic and sustained route (crux 16)." } ], "quality": 1, "bolts": "0", "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Paul Aubrey, Richard Pears, Jan 1981." }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki/balfour-range/mt-drake/north-face/samurai", "name": "Samurai", "grade": "23,III,7-", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": "400m", "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": "III", "mtcook": "7-", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": "400m", "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": "23", "description": "A wild ride. The thin buttress right of Shogun. An awesome line with a sting in the tail. Occasional bolt belays and runners (crux 23)." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": "0", "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Peter Dickson, Alex Palman, Feb 1989" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki/balfour-range/mt-drake/north-face/golden-hind", "name": "Golden Hind", "grade": "19,6+,IV", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": "400m", "pitches": [ { "alpine": "6+", "commitment": "IV", "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": "400m", "bolts": null, "trad": true, "ewbank": "19", "description": null } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": "0", "natural_pro": true, "description": "Starts on the slabby buttress (as for Samurai) and climbs the line of least resistance up corners and cracks on the left side of the Pelican Buttress.\nFrom the Crows Nest Ledge climb the prow, turning difficulties on the left.", "ascent": "Peter Dickson, Carol McDermott" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki/balfour-range/mt-drake/north-face/pelican", "name": "Pelican", "grade": "22,III,7", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": "400m", "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": "III", "mtcook": "7", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": "400m", "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": "22", "description": "Ascends the clean red rock of the Central Buttress all the way to the summit, never deviating more than six metres. A technical start is followed by an ar\u00eate capped by an intimidating roof (crux 22). The Pelican takes the left side of the roof and continues up a series of towers to the summit. Occasional bolt belays and runners. Very sustained. There are two first pitch options: follow the obvious crack system to the wave and traverse to the edge of the buttress (20) or continue up the crack to join the buttress higher (22)." } ], "quality": 1, "bolts": "0", "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Peter Dickson, Alex Palman, Feb 1989." }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki/balfour-range/mt-drake/north-face/superconnected", "name": "Superconnected", "grade": "27", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": "0m", "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": "3", "trad": false, "ewbank": "27", "description": "A one pitch direct start to the Pelican. Desperate moves up the angular buttress lead to easier ground above." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": "3", "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Alex Palman, February 1996" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki/balfour-range/mt-drake/north-face/urga-memorial-route", "name": "URGA Memorial Route", "grade": "19,III", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": "200m", "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": "III", "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": "200m", "bolts": null, "trad": true, "ewbank": "19", "description": "This follows a classic corner, between the Pelican and the Right Hand Buttress, which sweeps up to the large roof, shared with the Pelican. Take the right hand side of the roof via a detached plate (crux 19). The climb finishes at the Crows Nest Ledge." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": "0", "natural_pro": true, "description": null, "ascent": "Alex Palman, Peter Dickson, Feb 1989." }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki/balfour-range/mt-drake/north-face/red-scorpion", "name": "Red Scorpion", "grade": "23,I", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": "210m", "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": "I", "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": "210m", "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": "23", "description": "Climb the centre of the Right Hand Buttress, taking the right pillar at the top. Start as for Astrolabe but traverse left along a break to gain the buttress proper. Continue up through great rock involving cracks, roofs, slabs and a headwall (crux 23). All pitches are equipped with double bolt belays and some have bolt runners. Mostly 17-20. Stunning." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": "0", "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Alex Palman, Peter Dickson, Mar 2000." }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki/balfour-range/mt-drake/north-face/astrolabe", "name": "Astrolabe", "grade": "17,II,6-", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": "350m", "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": "II", "mtcook": "6-", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": "350m", "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": "17", "description": "A classic route. An almost perfect buttress of red rock forming the junction of the North Face and the West Wall. Once on the Satellite Buttress, scramble up the next 30m rock step to the base of the buttress. Astrolabe starts in the obvious right facing corner at the toe of the buttress (there are two corners \u2013 the left one being easier). Superb climbing leads to the Crows Nest Ledge and continues directly up the ar\u00eate to the top of the West Wall. Two easy pitches lead to the summit. The seventh pitch involves under-clinging a small roof (crux 17) however most of the climbing is 14-16.\r\nA third pitch variant involves climbing the ar\u00eate directly rather than moving left, grade 18." } ], "quality": 2, "bolts": "0", "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Carol McDermott, Mark Defourneaux, Peter Dickson, Mar 1988." } ], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki/balfour-range/mt-drake/west-wall", "name": "West Wall", "altitude": null, "access": null, "description": "The rock making up this 300m wall is again nothing short of sensational by local standards, offering overlapping plates and finger cracks. The Corsair also serves as an abseil descent route for all other routes on Mt Drake. To access the West Wall, follow the Astrolabe description and then continue up the scree/snow gully at the base of the wall, passing a bivvy sized rock, All the West Wall routes share the same scramble to the summit. The following routes are described from left to right.", "latlng": null, "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki/balfour-range/mt-drake/west-wall/physical-graffiti", "name": "Physical Graffiti", "grade": "19,II,6+", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": "300m", "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": "II", "mtcook": "6+", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": "300m", "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": "19", "description": "Takes the first obvious recessed corner at the base of the face (bolt belay at ground level). The route keeps a constant distance from Astrolabe. Occasional bolt belays and runners. Balancy and technical climbing (crux 19)." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Alex Palman, Peter Dickson, Feb 1989." }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki/balfour-range/mt-drake/west-wall/buccaneer", "name": "Buccaneer", "grade": "20,I,6+", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": "290m", "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": "I", "mtcook": "6+", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": "290m", "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": "20", "description": "This route starts on a ledge ~20m right of Physical Graffiti. The ledge houses two large flakes behind which plastic boots and tools can be stashed. Climb through the initial overhanging fist crack to the shelf above and continue up. At the Crows Nest Ledge, traverse 10m right to a corner and crack system, which trends back left. Follow this to the top of the wall (the Corsair route crosses at the top of the fifth pitch and finishes right). Occasional bolt belays and runners (crux 20)." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Alex Palman, Peter Dickson, Feb 1989." }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki/balfour-range/mt-drake/west-wall/corsair", "name": "Corsair", "grade": "22,I,6+", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": "280m", "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": "I", "mtcook": "6+", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": "280m", "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": "22", "description": "This route also serves as an abseil descent. Start on the same ledge as for the Buccaneer but climb up flakes through the overhang to the right. Move right to a crack and follow to a double bolt belay. Climb the headwall to the Crows Nest Ledge and then up to a belay shared with the Buccaneer. Climb the face left of the belay and past a bolt runner to a double bolt belay. Head through the crux (22): two bulging overlaps (bolt & wire) to another DB belay (crux can be avoided by traversing into the Buccaneer). Finally, move up a finger crack right of the Buccaneer off-width. Technical and sustained." } ], "quality": 1, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Peter Dickson, Alex Palman, Feb 1989." }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki/balfour-range/mt-drake/west-wall/no-push-no-baby", "name": "No Push, No Baby", "grade": "20", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": "95m", "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": "95m", "bolts": null, "trad": true, "ewbank": "17", "description": "A good two-pitch route that ends at the Crows Nest Ledge. Take the large crack system right of the Corsair." }, { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": true, "ewbank": "20", "description": "The second pitch trends left up a steep layback crack" } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": true, "description": null, "ascent": "Alex Palman, Peter Dickson, Mar 2000." }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki/balfour-range/mt-drake/west-wall/spanish-armada", "name": "Spanish Armada", "grade": "18,5+", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "5+", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": "18", "description": "A buttress to the right of the West Wall. The line runs up just left of the crest. The route has good rock and is 5-6 pitches long to the ridge line. From here one can traverse to the summit of Drake (and descend via the Corsair route) or descend the Bamaphone route (crux 17/18)." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Carol McDermott, Steve Moore, Mar 1988." }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki/balfour-range/mt-drake/west-wall/bamaphone-route", "name": "Bamaphone Route", "grade": "13,4-", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "4-", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": "13", "description": "Starts from the highest point of the snow slope. Up the corner and edge right of the Spanish Armada. Rappel the route or continue to the summit. About 5 pitches, crux 13." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Dave Bamford, John Nankervis, Feb 1980." }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki/balfour-range/mt-drake/west-wall/original-route", "name": "Original Route", "grade": "4-", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "4-", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "Ascends the rock face between the Bamaphone route and the rightmost limit of Drakes West and North West Ridges. The rock is good, but there is a dodgy argillite band at the start. The route arrives on the West Ridge 4-5 pitches from the summit (easy scrambling). Unique views of Kupe and the Lower Balfour as well as the La Perouse Glaciers can be gained. A short and easy rock climb." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Nick Von Tunzelmann, A Bowden, Bob Cunninghame, Alex Parton, Jan 1967." } ], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] } ], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki/malte-brun-range/mt-darwin": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki/malte-brun-range/mt-darwin", "name": "Mt Darwin", "altitude": "2952m", "access": null, "description": "tba", "latlng": [ "-43.52704541", "170.3397996" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki/malte-brun-range/mt-darwin/annan-darwin-ridge", "name": "Annan-Darwin Ridge", "grade": "3+", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "3+", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "From the Tasman Glacier; A long rock ridge involving five (but you might find more) major rock steps of dubious quality rock." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "D Smyth, J B Waterhouse, Feb 1966." }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki/malte-brun-range/mt-darwin/north-west-ar%C3%AAte", "name": "North West Ar\u00eate", "grade": "2", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "2", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "Ascend the prominent rock spur leading up onto the West Ridge. Between here and the buttresses are a number of descent routes, but be careful as certain couloirs end in bluffs." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Sydney King, Darby Thomson, Feb 1914." }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki/malte-brun-range/mt-darwin/west-ridge", "name": "West Ridge", "grade": "2", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "2", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "A long but easy climb gained from the n\u00e9v\u00e9 feeding the Tasman Glacier above Darwin Corner." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Jack Clarke, Tom Fyfe, Franz Von Kronecker, Mar 1894." }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki/malte-brun-range/mt-darwin/south-face", "name": "South Face", "grade": "3", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "3", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "Head up to the left of a small icefall on the left of the face, then wind through cliffs onto snowslopes on the far left of the face. Finish onto the West Ridge via a wide couloir." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "R Arbon, J B Waterhouse, Jan 1979." }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki/malte-brun-range/mt-darwin/natural-selection", "name": "Natural Selection", "grade": "4,WI4", "topo_ref": null, "image": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/route/10599498_10152667555641974_5992783779868326144_n.jpg?itok=zQV8dK5w", "images": [ { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/route/10599498_10152667555641974_5992783779868326144_n.jpg?itok=zQV8dK5w", "height": "325", "width": "244" } ], "length": "500m", "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "4", "aid": null, "ice": "WI4", "mixed": null, "length": "500m", "bolts": null, "trad": true, "ewbank": null, "description": "Up the easy snow slopes trending slightly left of the black thumbnail and the corniced ridge above. Steep climbing and technical crux (AI4) lessening to 70 degree ice leads left up a snow-ice couloir to a ridgeline. Traverse left and straight up a headwall for 80m of 60 degree ice." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": true, "description": null, "ascent": "Lee Mackintosh, Chris Elliott, Aug 19 2014" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki/malte-brun-range/mt-darwin/darwin-route", "name": "Darwin Route", "grade": "2+", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "2+", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "Ascend towards the saddle at the head of the Darwin Glacier and then cut off up snowslopes towards the summit." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "B Carter, J Cruse, R H Peate, J M Rowe, Dec 1955." }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki/malte-brun-range/mt-darwin/darwin-shoulder-ski-touring", "name": "DARWIN SHOULDER, Ski Touring", "grade": null, "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "Ski initially downhill from Kelman or Tasman Saddle Huts, and then up a broad slope to a shoulder at 933840, where there are great views across to Mt Malte Brun. A good ski run of around 500 vertical metres may be obtained back to the floor of the Tasman Glacier." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": null } ], "places": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki/malte-brun-range/mt-darwin/darwin-buttresses", "name": "Darwin Buttresses", "altitude": null, "access": null, "description": "From the Tasman Glacier", "latlng": null, "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki/malte-brun-range/mt-darwin/darwin-buttresses/hornmclean-rib", "name": "Horn/McLean Rib", "grade": "12,4", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "4", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": "12", "description": "Ascend the prominent rib onto the Annan-Darwin Ridge. The lower half of the rib is good rock (crux 12), but the upper section contains some evil looking, loose black gullies." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "R Horn, D McLean, Dec 1969." }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki/malte-brun-range/mt-darwin/darwin-buttresses/couloir-route", "name": "Couloir Route", "grade": "3+", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "3+", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "Climb the obvious couloir between the Horn/McLean Rib and the Original route." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Andrew Lock, Luke Trehey, Nov 1990" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki/malte-brun-range/mt-darwin/darwin-buttresses/original-route", "name": "Original Route", "grade": "12,4-", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "4-", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": "12", "description": "Commence up firm rock from the right toe of the buttress and ascend to the first snowfield. Then traverse right and up to a second snowfield before taking the left of two prominent buttresses (crux 12). Above here the climbing becomes easy scrambling on broken rock." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Geoff Wayatt, A Cross, M Douglas, T Terry, R Smith, Jan 1967." }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki/malte-brun-range/mt-darwin/darwin-buttresses/lost-bolt-buttress", "name": "Lost Bolt Buttress", "grade": "14,4", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "4", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": "14", "description": "Ascend the original route but take the right of the two prominent buttresses. So named because somewhere here a Japanese party placed a bolt ladder that no one has found again" } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "R Aitken, S Firth, Dec 1973" } ], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] } ], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki/malte-brun-range/aiguilles-rouges": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki/malte-brun-range/aiguilles-rouges", "name": "Aiguilles Rouges", "altitude": "2950m", "access": "30m rap line with DBA, installed 2017 as per photos", "description": "Malte Brun Range", "latlng": [ "-43.577596", "170.291894" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki/malte-brun-range/aiguilles-rouges/south-face", "name": "South Face", "grade": "3+", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "3+", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "Traverse across the Onslow Glacier to gain the broad rib on the right side of the Face. Head up the rib, which eventually merges into the 45-50 degree slopes of the upper face, arriving on the summit ridge between the East and High Peaks." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Dave Bamford, John Nankervis, Jan 1980" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki/malte-brun-range/aiguilles-rouges/east-ridge", "name": "East Ridge", "grade": "2+", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "2+", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "An enjoyable climb with plenty of variety. Access from Onslow Hut is easy except for a short section of rotten rock. The lower flat sections of the ridge can be avoided by keeping to the Onslow Glacier, but two prominent rock steps have to be climbed where the ridge begins to steepen, and after another 200m a snow bulge is climbed. The route then gradually lies back up to the East Peak. It is roughly 25 minutes from here to the Main Peak." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "M J P Glasgow, Harry Stevenson, Dec 1951" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki/malte-brun-range/aiguilles-rouges/north-east-ridge", "name": "North East Ridge", "grade": "2", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "2", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "Ascend from Malte Brun pass onto this ridge climbing good rock over the East Peak and on to the high peak. The ridge starts in the Cascade Glacier but is gained at half height from Malte Brun Pass." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Laurence Earle, Peter Graham, Mar 1909 (Descended" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki/malte-brun-range/aiguilles-rouges/north-east-flank", "name": "North East Flank", "grade": "2", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "2", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "Via the Malte Brun Pass. There are two narrowish couloirs, the left one leading up to near the East Peak, and the right one providing access to broad snowslopes leading to the main summit. A good descent route." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Freda Du Faur, Peter Graham, Mar 1913." }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki/malte-brun-range/aiguilles-rouges/north-ridge", "name": "North Ridge", "grade": "2", "topo_ref": "5", "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "2", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "From the Pass ascend the ridge to the right of the NE Ridge. Excellent rock. Farther right are steeper variations with good climbing." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Laurence Earle, Peter Graham, March 1909;" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki/malte-brun-range/aiguilles-rouges/intermediate-ridge", "name": "Intermediate Ridge", "grade": "3-", "topo_ref": "6", "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "3-", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "Starting right of the North West Ridge, from the upper Beetham Stream, climb up a ridge crossing the occasional shingle covered ledge. Continue up the snow slope to link with the small ridge between the North West Ridge and the West Ridge. Joins the North East Ridge below the summit." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "(Possibly) Ross Cullen, Chris Knol, January 1982" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki/malte-brun-range/aiguilles-rouges/central-gully", "name": "Central Gully", "grade": "3-", "topo_ref": "7", "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "3-", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "Climb the gully between the two rock buttresses on the west face. Left of the West Ridge. Climbed with snow/ice in the gully." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "(Possibly) Ako Groot, Hawke Groot, January 1991" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki/malte-brun-range/aiguilles-rouges/west-ridge", "name": "West Ridge", "grade": "3+", "topo_ref": "8", "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "3+", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "From Malte Brun Pass traverse across scree ledges to gain the ridge at half height. Ascend good rock with some surprisingly difficult sections." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Ian Cave, Mike Gill, John Nichols, February 1960" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki/malte-brun-range/aiguilles-rouges/tiddley-pom", "name": "Tiddley Pom", "grade": "3-", "topo_ref": "9", "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "3-", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "Approached from the upper Beetham Valley. Ascend the prominent couloir on the south-west face." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Jo Kippax, Sean Waters, August 1992" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki/malte-brun-range/aiguilles-rouges/south-ridge", "name": "South Ridge", "grade": "2+", "topo_ref": "10", "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "2+", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "Approached from the upper Beetham Valley. \r\nGained by a large winding couloir (prone to rockfall), which ends in a short rotten rock face. The ridge is rather rotten at first and then improves." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "J Boyd, M McPhail, John Nankervis, Jan 1973" } ], "places": [], "image": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/wide/public/image/17760064_10209585568219018_2101214750841329065_n.jpg?itok=cI8t89oJ", "images": [ { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/wide/public/image/17760064_10209585568219018_2101214750841329065_n.jpg?itok=cI8t89oJ", "height": "631", "width": "640" }, { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/image/17796260_10209585569099040_7111309508128499247_n.jpg?itok=TrkBAcSa", "height": "325", "width": "217" }, { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/image/17629888_10209585568899035_8034602531979372522_n.jpg?itok=HPtKCiAv", "height": "325", "width": "217" } ] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki/main-divide/mt-de-la-beche": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki/main-divide/mt-de-la-beche", "name": "Mt De la Beche", "altitude": "2950m", "access": null, "description": "From the upper Rudolf Glacier and Graham Saddle, the West Ridge, West Rib and South Ridge of Mt De la Beche all provide short pleasant climbs. The West Rib contains some slightly more technical climbing than the other two routes.", "latlng": [ "-43.51151104", "170.2665089" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki/main-divide/mt-de-la-beche/de-la-beche-ridge", "name": "De la Beche Ridge", "grade": "2", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "2", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "From De la Beche Hut, head up the ridge for 400m and then traverse on the eastern snowslopes and basins up to the plateau between De la Beche and the Minarets. Then up either the South Ridge or North East Rib." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Tom Fyfe, George Graham, Feb 1894." } ], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki/malte-brun-range/mt-annan": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki/malte-brun-range/mt-annan", "name": "Mt Annan", "altitude": "2934m", "access": null, "description": null, "latlng": [ "-43.52684", "170.34807" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki/malte-brun-range/mt-annan/north-east-ridge", "name": "North East Ridge", "grade": "2", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "2", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "From the Tasman Glacier: Ascend easy rock. This is a good descent route." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Hugh Chambers, Jack Clarke, Feb 1912." }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki/malte-brun-range/mt-annan/couloir-route", "name": "Couloir Route", "grade": "2+", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "2+", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "From the Tasman Glacier: Ascend the gully beside the North East Ridge." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "J B Waterhouse, Feb 1966." }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki/malte-brun-range/mt-annan/annan-buttress", "name": "Annan Buttress", "grade": "3+", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "3+", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "From the Tasman Glacier: Ascend three prominent rocksteps on good rock, interspersed with short snow sections between the rock steps." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "B Dawkins, Bob McKegg, B Poppelwell, W Stephenson, Dec 1968." }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki/malte-brun-range/mt-annan/annan-darwin-traverse", "name": "Annan-Darwin Traverse", "grade": "3+", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "3+", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "From the Tasman Glacier: A long rock ridge involving five (but you might find more) major rock steps of dubious quality rock." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "D Smyth, J B Waterhouse, Feb 1966." }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki/malte-brun-range/mt-annan/south-east-ridge", "name": "South East Ridge", "grade": "2", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "2", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "From the Darwin Glacier; This is reached from the glacier via the saddle at the head of the Darwin Glacier, or over Haeckel Peak, and provides little difficulty." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "R M Crockett, W G McClymont, F F Simmons, Dec 1934 (via Haeckel Peak)." }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki/malte-brun-range/mt-annan/east-rib", "name": "East Rib", "grade": "3", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "3", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "After negotiating the step between the two arms of the Mannering Glacier, move quickly onto the rib via slopes between Mt Annan and Peak 9144, to gain the crest of the rib. Head up wide snow slopes interspersed with rock bands to arrive within a few feet of the summit." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Bob Gunn, John Nankervis, John Wild, Dec 1968" } ], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki/main-divide/mt-low": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki/main-divide/mt-low", "name": "Mt Low", "altitude": "2932m", "access": null, "description": null, "latlng": [ "-43.59580863", "170.09908676" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki/main-divide/mt-low/standard-routes", "name": "Standard Routes", "grade": "3", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "3", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "A route begins up under Mt Jellicoe and traverses up under Mt Low to the saddle right of the summit of Mt La Perouse. Then northwards to the summit of Low. Or Via Mt Jellicoe along the divide." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Hugh Chambers, Conrad Kain, Hugh Wright, Feb 1915." } ], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki/mt-cook-range/nazomi": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki/mt-cook-range/nazomi", "name": "Nazomi", "altitude": "2925m", "access": null, "description": "South of Aoraki", "latlng": [ "-43.62215891", "170.14354706" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki/mt-cook-range/nazomi/east-face-routes", "name": "East Face Routes", "grade": "3", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "3", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "From the Ball Glacier gain the prominent shelf that runs below Nazomi and verges the Caroline Face by climbing 650m up a rib that starts from the Ball-Caroline glaciers junction. A number of routes exist from the shelf onto the crest of the Mt Aoraki/Cook Range:\r\nBruce Gillies, Roland Rodda, Dec 1942." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "i) to the base of the South Ridge of Nazomi." } ], "places": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki/mt-cook-range/nazomi/gledhill-buttress", "name": "Gledhill Buttress", "altitude": null, "access": null, "description": "Mainly rock routes above the Noeline Glacier.", "latlng": null, "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki/mt-cook-range/nazomi/gledhill-buttress/castle-mcdermott", "name": "Castle - McDermott", "grade": "17,4", "topo_ref": null, "image": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/route/Nazomi-PC-2.jpg?itok=JBMJWthp", "images": [ { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/route/Nazomi-PC-2.jpg?itok=JBMJWthp", "height": "325", "width": "301" } ], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "4", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": true, "ewbank": "17", "description": "The first two pitches climbed were in the corner just left of the buttress, they then moved right onto slabs between the corner and the buttress traversing r to cross the roofs that are left of the prow." } ], "quality": 2, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": true, "description": "Started up the toe of the Buttress initially and then moved left into the\ncorner after 20m. Continued up the corner then up the middle of the upper\nslabs and traversed back right to cross the roof line in the upper wall. They\nmistook this for the Gledhill Buttress.", "ascent": "Phil Castle, Carol McDermott , January 1985" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki/mt-cook-range/nazomi/gledhill-buttress/xmas-sausage-terminator-variant", "name": "Xmas Sausage: Terminator Variant", "grade": "18,4", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "4", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": "18", "description": "Head up the Terminator and then straight up the slabby buttress above" } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Jeremy Strang, Dave Vass, Dec 1988." }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki/mt-cook-range/nazomi/gledhill-buttress/terminator", "name": "Terminator", "grade": "18,4+", "topo_ref": null, "image": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/route/Nazomi%20HD%20terminator.jpg?itok=z-AqGm4o", "images": [ { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/route/Nazomi%20HD%20terminator.jpg?itok=z-AqGm4o", "height": "244", "width": "325" } ], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "4+", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": "18", "description": "Start climbing up the prow of the buttress, then continue up the slabby buttress above keeping well right of the corner. Move right to climb roofs R of the prow. Twelve pitches of excellent sustained rockclimbing (crux 18, also pitches of 16)." } ], "quality": 1, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Hamish Dunn, Rob Staszewski, Feb 1985" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki/mt-cook-range/nazomi/gledhill-buttress/gledhill-route", "name": "Gledhill Route", "grade": "17,4", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "4", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": "17", "description": "Start right of the prow of the prominent buttress. Easy angled climbing leads up right into a corner and deep ugly gully. A crux near the top of the gully (two possible options, both grade 17) is followed by 200m of scrambling to the summit." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Alan & Geoff Gledhill, Feb 1973." }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki/mt-cook-range/nazomi/gledhill-buttress/tom-and-bill", "name": "Tom and Bill", "grade": "14,3+", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "3+", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": "14", "description": "On the buttress rib right of the Gledhill and Terminator, (crux 14, but might be harder), limited protection." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Adrian Daly, Brendan Wilson, Jan 1988." }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki/mt-cook-range/nazomi/gledhill-buttress/variant", "name": "Variant", "grade": "14,3+", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "3+", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": "14", "description": "Starts 70m right of the Gledhill line near a waterfall. Climb face to overhang, then up groove and steep gully, and follow a rib to the top. Excellent rock, (possibly involves th Ton & Bill Route)." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Matt Perchad, Garry Phillips, Feb 1996." }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki/mt-cook-range/nazomi/gledhill-buttress/noeline-couloir", "name": "Noeline Couloir", "grade": "2", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "2", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "Ascend the couloir and rock steps between the two summits. This is a standard ascent and descent route. There are a considerable number of variations, especially to the left of the couloir." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Freda Du Faur, Alex Graham, Peter Graham, Mar 1912." }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki/mt-cook-range/nazomi/gledhill-buttress/du-faur-ridge", "name": "Du Faur Ridge", "grade": null, "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "The southern wall of the Noeline Glacier can be gained at various points and although the upper portion has been climbed often, the ridge does not appear to have been climbed in its entirety. Excellent rock buttresses are found on the lower ridge." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": null }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki/mt-cook-range/nazomi/gledhill-buttress/tim-jefferson-memorial-route", "name": "Tim Jefferson Memorial Route", "grade": "16,3", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "3", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": "16", "description": "The obvious buttress clearly visible from Gardiner Hut on the western end of the West Ridge of Nazomi. Climb the north side of the buttress using the obvious left facing corner for three pitches, turning two large roofs on the left. Move onto broken slabs of the west face through an overhanging \u2018V\u2019 slot on the NW ridge (crux 16). Easy scrambling along the ridge then leads to a point above a large snow slope leading down the north side to the Noeline Glacier descent route." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Steve Upton, Mike Morrissey, Jan 1983." }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki/mt-cook-range/nazomi/gledhill-buttress/white-vervoorn-buttress", "name": "White-Vervoorn Buttress", "grade": "15,4", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "4", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": "15", "description": "Gain the buttress from the Hooker Glacier below the Hooker Icefall 300m\r\nof hard climbing on excellent rock (crux 15), which is reportedly far better than the McInnes Ridge, that leads to lesser angled rock which a confident party can climb unroped. To descend, walk off the top of the second buttress down the Noeline Glacier." } ], "quality": 1, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Aat Vervoorn, David White, Nov 1972." }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki/mt-cook-range/nazomi/gledhill-buttress/macinnes-ridge", "name": "MacInnes Ridge", "grade": "4", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "4", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "Starting from the lower Hooker Glacier beside the stream from the Mona Glacier, climb the first buttress, then onto the second buttress of good rock (with a 50m cheval) and up to the \u201cGnome\u201d, from where a short descent leads onto a small glacier below the final wall. An escape route exists to the left round to Gardiner Hut. Otherwise straight up variable rock to the summit ridge. This section can often be iced up." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Hamish MacInnes, Peter Robinson, Feb 1955." } ], "places": [], "image": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/wide/public/image/Nazomi-topo.jpg?itok=j0pynIxa", "images": [ { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/wide/public/image/Nazomi-topo.jpg?itok=j0pynIxa", "height": "900", "width": "853" }, { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/image/CarolOnRoute_0.jpg?itok=M_velsi5", "height": "325", "width": "235" } ] }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki/mt-cook-range/nazomi/south-face", "name": "South Face", "altitude": null, "access": null, "description": "Approached from the Mona Glacier.", "latlng": null, "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki/mt-cook-range/nazomi/south-face/dark-hope", "name": "Dark Hope", "grade": "5-,WI4", "topo_ref": "3.109 or BDR", "image": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/route/PC100142_1.jpg?itok=UDyIUA2z", "images": [ { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/route/PC100142_1.jpg?itok=UDyIUA2z", "height": "244", "width": "325" }, { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/route/Nazomi2.jpg?itok=zmSxwhks", "height": "325", "width": "244" } ], "length": "450m", "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "5-", "aid": null, "ice": "WI4", "mixed": null, "length": "450m", "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "Follows the major ice line to the left of Runts in Paradise. Ben started out by heading up frozen snow from the schrund and then up steeper waterfall ice in a gully on the right. The first 15-metre high step of over 85-degree ice was the crux of the 450-metre face, which alternated between \u2018short ice steps\u2019 and snow, leading up to steeper mixed terrain before hitting the ridgeline. Another 150 metres along the ridgeline allowed access to the summit" } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": "0", "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Ben Dare, 9th/10th December 2013" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki/mt-cook-range/nazomi/south-face/runts-paradise", "name": "Runts in Paradise", "grade": "5,V,5-", "topo_ref": "3.110 and RIP", "image": null, "images": [], "length": "0m", "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "5-", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "Gullies left of the Faintly French Route, with a snow slope to start. This route climbs ice to the left of the left rib and takes a left-hand gully at half height." }, { "alpine": "5", "commitment": "V", "mtcook": "5-", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": null } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": "0", "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Graham Saunders, Rik Thwaites, Jan 1988." }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki/mt-cook-range/nazomi/south-face/no-country-old-men", "name": "No country for old men", "grade": "5", "topo_ref": "NC", "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "5", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": null } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": "Seven 60m pitches, starts up snow slopes as for Runts in Paradise but\ncontinues up closer to the left rib (Faintly French) when Runts heads left\nand up.", "ascent": "Felix Landman and Llewellyn Murdoch, 18 November 2011" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki/mt-cook-range/nazomi/south-face/faintly-french", "name": "Faintly French", "grade": "15,3+", "topo_ref": "FF", "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "3+", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": "15", "description": "Climb the left rib, rock scrambling changing to steep climbing on an ar\u00eate (crux 15) followed by easier broken rock 200m below the summit." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Stu Skeen, Richard Howes, Feb 1984." }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki/mt-cook-range/nazomi/south-face/major-runt-route", "name": "Major Runt Route", "grade": "5", "topo_ref": "MRR", "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "5", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "The obvious central couloir between the two major buttresses." } ], "quality": 1, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Russell Braddock, Nick Parks, Dec 1984." }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki/mt-cook-range/nazomi/south-face/cormack-wilson-rib", "name": "Cormack-Wilson Rib", "grade": "3+", "topo_ref": "CWR", "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "3+", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "Up the middle rib which steepens in the middle before reaching a shelf below the final 150m of poor rock." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "H W Cormack, L W Wilson, Dec 1936." }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki/mt-cook-range/nazomi/south-face/andys-route", "name": "Andy's route", "grade": "5", "topo_ref": "AR", "image": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/route/Nazomi%20Sth%20Face%20Andy.jpg?itok=7m_6Vpcx", "images": [ { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/route/Nazomi%20Sth%20Face%20Andy.jpg?itok=7m_6Vpcx", "height": "260", "width": "325" } ], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "5", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": null } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": "Ice line immediately R of Cormack -Wilson rib and left of Slightly Scottish.\nWas ascended accidentally being mistaken for the line of Slightly Scottish\ndue to that having been wrongly marked in earlier Guide books.. Immediately\ngot a second ascent by Sam Bossard and Paula MacFarlane", "ascent": "Andy MacFarlane winter 1993" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki/mt-cook-range/nazomi/south-face/slightly-scottish", "name": "Slightly Scottish", "grade": "V,6,WI5", "topo_ref": "SS", "image": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/route/Nazomi.jpg?itok=A-fFmCXk", "images": [ { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/route/Nazomi.jpg?itok=A-fFmCXk", "height": "325", "width": "309" }, { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/route/20160921-0627.jpg?itok=gMLttGhQ", "height": "325", "width": "304" } ], "length": "0m", "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": "V", "mtcook": "6", "aid": null, "ice": "WI5", "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "\"The\" line on the face to date. An ice climb up the couloir to right of Cormack-Wilson Rib. Sustained climbing through middle section with vertical and overhanging ice encountered. When first climbed there was pronounced rockfall on the first two piches as the bottleneck collects all debris between Cormack-Wilson rib and TTSB. Objective danger should lessen rapidly on subsequent pitches. 450/500m depending on the collection/debris cone at the base." } ], "quality": 3, "bolts": "0", "natural_pro": false, "description": "An ice climb up the couloir to right of Cormack-Wilson Rib. Where the couloir\ncuts right to the South Ridge move left and up (crux) to reach the shelf,\nthen out onto the upper South Ridge.\n17 x 40m pitches. This is a steep climb and further R than Andys route. They\nshare the same finish", "ascent": "Murray Ball, Bryan McArthur, Zane Williams, Jan 1980." }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki/mt-cook-range/nazomi/south-face/turkey-strikes-back-right-rib", "name": "The Turkey Strikes Back (Right Rib)", "grade": "13,3+", "topo_ref": "TTSB", "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "3+", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": "13", "description": "Third buttress right of the MacInness R. A rotten rock start leads to climbing on sound compact rock with sustained difficulties" } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Roddy McKenzie, Craig Nottle, Graeme Saunders, Jan 1982." }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki/mt-cook-range/nazomi/south-face/south-ridge", "name": "South Ridge", "grade": "3", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "3", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "The start from the head of the Mona Glacier n\u00e9v\u00e9 is steep and has been\r\navoided by using couloirs on the west to emerge where the ridge flattens. A prominent tower 200m below the summit is turned on the east. The rock is variable.\r\nDescended in winter 1993 by Andy MacFarlane." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "C J Burrows, W A Croll, Dec 1955." } ], "places": [], "image": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/wide/public/image/pc100142_pixel.jpg?itok=YfJqXpZ-", "images": [ { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/wide/public/image/pc100142_pixel.jpg?itok=YfJqXpZ-", "height": "574", "width": "860" }, { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/image/Nazomi%20SF%201.1_0.jpeg?itok=5LHSgMqg", "height": "325", "width": "244" }, { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/image/Nazomi%20SF%201.2_0.jpg?itok=7Qvb-t9i", "height": "325", "width": "280" }, { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/image/Nazomi%20SF%201.3.JPG?itok=s2LSTHwc", "height": "244", "width": "325" } ] } ], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki/malte-brun-range/mt-chudleigh-middle-pk": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki/malte-brun-range/mt-chudleigh-middle-pk", "name": "Mt Chudleigh Middle Pk", "altitude": "2913m", "access": null, "description": "The Middle Peak was first climbed by Alex Graham, Peter Graham, Ebenezer Teichelmann, Feb 1910 via the Reay Glacier Route", "latlng": null, "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki/malte-brun-range/mt-chudleigh-middle-pk/left-side-buttress", "name": "Left Side of Buttress", "grade": "3", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "3", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "Ascend poor rock on the left side of the buttress that leads up to the summit ridge just left of the Middle Peak." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Roger Foley, Simon Carr, Jan 1984." }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki/malte-brun-range/mt-chudleigh-middle-pk/lecky-glacier", "name": "From Lecky Glacier", "grade": "2+", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "2+", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "From the Lecky Glacier. Ascend toward Reay Col but 200m below the Col head straight up steep snow, keeping left of some icecliffs to join up with the Reay Glacier route on Mt Chudleigh." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "B Barton and others, Jan 1974" } ], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki/main-divide/mt-goldsmith": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki/main-divide/mt-goldsmith", "name": "Mt Goldsmith", "altitude": "2909m", "access": null, "description": null, "latlng": [ "-43.50807194", "170.2795639" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki/main-divide/mt-goldsmith/standard-route", "name": "Standard Route", "grade": "2+", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "2+", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "From the Geikie Snowfield traverse the slopes, below the Minarets, from Mt Matenga to a snow basin across two rock spurs running down from the Minarets. Ascend the basin and onto the Main Divide, then up the summit ridge." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Miss I Corry, Mark Lysons, Jan 1933." } ], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki/main-divide/mt-walter": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki/main-divide/mt-walter", "name": "Mt Walter", "altitude": "2905m", "access": null, "description": null, "latlng": [ "-43.490103", "170.322392" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki/main-divide/mt-walter/south-ridge", "name": "South Ridge", "grade": "2-", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "2-", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "From plateau between Mts Green and Walter, ascend the easy snow ridge." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Alex Graham, Peter Graham, Ebenezer Teichelmann, F W Vollmann, Feb 1909." }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki/main-divide/mt-walter/north-east-ridge", "name": "North East Ridge", "grade": null, "topo_ref": null, "image": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/route/DSC01109.JPG?itok=4oXbchPM", "images": [ { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/route/DSC01109.JPG?itok=4oXbchPM", "height": "217", "width": "325" } ], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "From the col between Mts Walter and Elie de Beaumont, head up over the rock step to the summit. Usually descended when traversing Walter en route to Elie, when the Anna Glacier is cut off. A serious proposition." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "C J Read, G S J Read, K Suter, Feb 1934." } ], "places": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/main-divide-of-the-southern-alps/mt-walter/east-face", "name": "East Face", "altitude": null, "access": null, "description": "From the Upper Tasman Glacier", "latlng": null, "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/main-divide-of-the-southern-alps/mt-walter/east-face/geriatric", "name": "Geriatric", "grade": "5", "topo_ref": "G", "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "5", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "A thirteen pitch route starting just right and below where the major icecliffs begin to develop. The route follows a right ascending traverse after four pitches and then heads straight up steep ice onto the ridge 200m from the summit of Mt Walter." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Russell Braddock, Pete Brailsford, Aug 1983." }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/main-divide-of-the-southern-alps/mt-walter/east-face/ice-cr%C3%A8me", "name": "Ice Cr\u00e8me", "grade": "5", "topo_ref": "IC", "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "5", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "Ascend an obvious gully for eight pitches, which broadens out to join the snowfields left of the summit." } ], "quality": 2, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Paul Bayne, Shaun Norman, June 1983." }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/main-divide-of-the-southern-alps/mt-walter/east-face/curtains", "name": "Curtains", "grade": "5", "topo_ref": "C", "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "5", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "Climb a steep ice curtain, which leads into a broad gully. The gully leads left and finishes directly at the summit." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "James Jenkins, S Parkes, Aug 1981." }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/main-divide-of-the-southern-alps/mt-walter/east-face/original", "name": "Original", "grade": "5", "topo_ref": "O", "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "5", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "Ascend a steep couloir on the right side of the face for three pitches. Then\r\ntraverse left into the same gully ascended by the Curtains route." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Nick Cradock, Barry Jury, Nic Kagan, Jun 1977." } ], "places": [], "image": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/wide/public/image/East-Face-Walter-01.jpg?itok=rTcskAIq", "images": [ { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/wide/public/image/East-Face-Walter-01.jpg?itok=rTcskAIq", "height": "675", "width": "900" } ] }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/main-divide-of-the-southern-alps/mt-walter/west-face", "name": "West Face", "altitude": null, "access": null, "description": "From the Upper Spencer Glacier", "latlng": null, "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/main-divide-of-the-southern-alps/mt-walter/west-face/assessor", "name": "The Assessor", "grade": "15,4", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "4", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": "15", "description": "Starting at the lowermost rocks on the face, ascend very good rock for twelve pitches, crossing two overlaps, en route to the summit ." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Bill Atkinson, Nigel Shepherd, Feb 1983" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/main-divide-of-the-southern-alps/mt-walter/west-face/assessed", "name": "The Assessed", "grade": "13,4-", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "4-", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": "13", "description": "100m higher and to the right of The Assessor, follow the left slanting corner." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Stu Allan, Eric Saxby, Feb 1983." } ], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] } ], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki/main-divide/bristol-top": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki/main-divide/bristol-top", "name": "Bristol Top", "altitude": "2891m", "access": null, "description": null, "latlng": [ "-43.5329211", "170.2141695" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki/main-divide/bristol-top/standard-route", "name": "Standard Route", "grade": "2+", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "2+", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "From the n\u00e9v\u00e9 of the Explorer Glacier climb mixed ground (with rotten rock) to just south of the summit." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Alex Graham, Henry Newton, Feb 1907." }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki/main-divide/bristol-top/main-divide-route", "name": "Main Divide Route", "grade": "3", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "3", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "The Divide ridge from Glacier Peak is a pinnacled, enjoyable climb. Also refer to Upper Tasman Glacier Section." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Harold Porter, Vic Williams, Dec 1930 (from the east)." } ], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki/fritz-range/conway-pk": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki/fritz-range/conway-pk", "name": "Conway Pk", "altitude": "2891m", "access": null, "description": "tba", "latlng": [ "-43.53088774", "170.214215" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki/fritz-range/conway-pk/bristol-top-or-frenchay-col", "name": "Via Bristol Top or Frenchay Col", "grade": "3", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": "0m", "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "3", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": null } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": "0", "natural_pro": false, "description": "Follow the Main Divide from either Bristol Top or Frenchay Col. Conway itself is just off the Divide to the west.", "ascent": "Frank Milne, Harold Porter, March 1925" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki/fritz-range/conway-pk/east-ridge", "name": "East Ridge", "grade": "2,II,2+", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": "2", "commitment": "II", "mtcook": "2+", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "From the Franz Josef N\u00e9v\u00e9 ascend to Frenchay Col (2685m) and up the Main Divide ridge before turning northwest and up to the summit." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Ida Corry, Mark Lysons, Jan 1933" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki/fritz-range/conway-pk/explorer-glacier-bristol-top", "name": "Explorer Glacier via Bristol Top", "grade": "2+", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "2+", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "From Bristol Top head along the pinnacled Main Divide and onto the summit just off the Divide." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Alex Graham, Henry Newton, Feb 1907." }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki/fritz-range/conway-pk/sunshine-buttress", "name": "Sunshine Buttress", "grade": "17,5,III", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": "5", "commitment": "III", "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": "17", "description": "This route is on the buttress to the right of Moonshine Buttress. Six or so pitches of grade 17 climbing on good rock. A small section of argillite needs care but it does not detract from\r\nthe overall good experience. The final pitch is 50m at grade 17." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Craig Cardie, Allan Uren, 2004" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki/fritz-range/conway-pk/vision-iii-7", "name": "The Vision III, 7+", "grade": "7,III", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": "7", "commitment": "III", "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "The gully line on the left-hand edge of the\r\nbuttress. Six pitches that require a variety of fixed\r\ngear. The crux is at pitch four with a problematic\r\nrock step corner. The first ascent went up the\r\nthin crack on the right and used a few points\r\nof aid. Kester Brown and Jono Clarke climbed\r\nthe overhanging corner free\u2014hard technical\r\nclimbing (M6) and runout to where the roof joins\r\nthe corner. The route does form as a big white-ice\r\nline\u2014in those conditions you\u2019ll wonder what all\r\nthe fuss was about." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "FA: Adrian Camm, Johnny Davison, Julian White, Allan Uren, winter 2006" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki/fritz-range/conway-pk/life-fridge-iii-4", "name": "Life in the Fridge III, 4+", "grade": "III", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": "III", "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "This is a variant of The Vision. At the crux of The\r\nVision head right up a leaning ramp.\r\nJohnny Davison, Allan Uren, Aug 2006" } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Johnny Davison, Allan Uren, Aug 2006" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki/fritz-range/conway-pk/technospectacle-iii-8", "name": "Technospectacle III, 8", "grade": "III", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": "III", "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "A line of \u2018most resistance\u2019 taking a devious\r\nline on the face to link up three sections of\r\ndifficult mixed ground. The first two pitches are\r\nstraightforward gully climbing. The third pitch\r\nthrough a rock band is tricky to protect, but not\r\nthe crux. The fifth pitch is the crux (M7) and starts off the ramp of Life in the Fridge. It climbs\r\na thin finger of ice and bare rock\u2014a serious lead.\r\nOne more pitch to the ridge, finishing at the top\r\nof The Vision." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Jono Clarke, Jamie Vinton-Boot, Aug 2011" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki/fritz-range/conway-pk/grey-hare", "name": "The Grey Hare", "grade": "III,4+,WI3,M3", "topo_ref": "GH", "image": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/route/sketch-1536569044641.png?itok=D_1Hl31e", "images": [ { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/route/sketch-1536569044641.png?itok=D_1Hl31e", "height": "183", "width": "325" } ], "length": "300m", "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": "III", "mtcook": "4+", "aid": null, "ice": "WI3", "mixed": "M3", "length": "300m", "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "5 pitch ice, snow, and mixed route that starts off in the corner just left of the slabby rock (of the buttress to the right of Moonshine buttress,) and goes up a corner/chimney. The route can be taken up to the saddle in 4 pitches or you can take an alternate end and go right up the obvious gullies for a bit more ice/mixed fun. Bring your snowstake for getting off the sloping top.\r\n\r\nP1: 30m WI2+ to the bottom of the steep traversing bulge. You can use the chimney to lay back against.\r\nP2: 55m WI2+ with WI3 crux. Tackle the crux and move into the left gully. This takes you up to the snow slopes.\r\nP3: 60m WI2+ more blue ice up the gully until you come out to the snow slope, find some ice to belay off.\r\nP4: 60m 60 degree snow slope, may be iced up in different conditions.\r\nP5: 60+m WI2+ M3/4 Ice runnels up between mixed ground. Mostly M3 with some M4 moves. Tops out on the snow slope or build a rock belay before topping out." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Jacob Downie, Evan Davies, Sept 8, 2018." } ], "places": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki/fritz-range/moonshine-buttress", "name": "Moonshine Buttress", "altitude": "2760m", "access": null, "description": "From the Explorer Glacier.\nUpper Fritz Range. Not a named peak. NW of Conway and SW of Barnicoat", "latlng": [ "-43.529", "170.21187" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki/fritz-range/moonshine-buttress/poor-visibility", "name": "Poor Visibility", "grade": "5,III", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": "5", "commitment": "III", "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "On the left of the Moonshine Buttress is a nice\nsix pitch line of ice with a wee mixed section.\nIt follows the upper right arm of a prominent\n\u2018X\u2019 on the left side of the buttress. The first\nascentionists descended using V-threads." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Michael Madden, Matt Quirke, Aug 2007" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki/fritz-range/moonshine-buttress/visually-impaired", "name": "Visually Impaired", "grade": "IV,5+", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": "IV", "mtcook": "5+", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "Climb a thin ribbon of ice immediately right of\nMoonshine Buttress. The crux on the first ascent\nwas a short, narrow chimney, followed by a few\nmetres of overhanging ice. Another full pitch\nhigh on the route was very thin, with near to no\nprotection. The amount of reliable protection\nmay vary with ice conditions. Descending the\nroute was difficult and serious due to lack of\nanchors. In similar conditions, it may be better to\nabseil down the north ridge of Conway to the col,\nand then down an easy snow gully." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Michael Madden, Matt Quirke, Aug 2007" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki/fritz-range/moonshine-buttress/moonshine-buttress", "name": "Moonshine Buttress", "grade": "17,4", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "4", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": "17", "description": "Climb the south-west rib from the n\u00e9v\u00e9 for about nine rope lengths on good rock. Sustained grade 14/15 climbing with a crux of 17. The route weaves its way up the pinkest rock to the right of the broad flat buttress. Although descending into the Franz is possible it is not recommended. Abseil the route, using a range of fixed gear. A superb route \u2013 put this one on the list." } ], "quality": 1, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Greg & Dean Landreth, Apr 1984." }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki/fritz-range/moonshine-buttress/silver-fox", "name": "The Silver Fox", "grade": "4,II,4-", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": "4", "commitment": "II", "mtcook": "4-", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "A couloir to the left of the peak contains one steep pitch (65-70o). Arriving on the ridge west of the peak, traverse the summit and descend to Frenchay Col." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Stu Gray, Brian Williamson, Jan 1988." }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki/fritz-range/moonshine-buttress/right-couloir", "name": "Right Couloir", "grade": "3,II,2+", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": "3", "commitment": "II", "mtcook": "2+", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "Ascend a couloir to the right of Conway onto the Main Divide and traverse to the summit." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "R Bates, E McMahon, Nov 1976." } ], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] } ], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/kaikoura/inland-kaikoura-range/tapuae-o-uenuku": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/kaikoura/inland-kaikoura-range/tapuae-o-uenuku", "name": "Tapuae-o-Uenuku", "altitude": "2885m", "access": null, "description": "Tapuae-o-Uenuku is the highest point in New Zealand north of the Aoraki Mount Cook region.", "latlng": [ "-41.99633967", "173.66270004" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/kaikoura/inland-kaikoura-range/tapuae-o-uenuku/south-ridge", "name": "South Ridge", "grade": null, "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": "Up from the Hodder.", "ascent": null }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/kaikoura/inland-kaikoura-range/tapuae-o-uenuku/branch-stream-route", "name": "Branch Stream Route", "grade": "2", "topo_ref": "BS", "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": "2", "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "Via Clarence Valley. Park your 4WD vehicle near fertiliser bins at 640m at an airstrip near Branch Cottage. Head west to a tributary of Branch Stream, follow an old farm track, then ascend a tussock slope with regenerating totara to gain a scree ridge on the true left of Branch Stream. At about 1450m, before the first rocky knobs on ridge, descend a large scree slope to the stream. Alternatively, sidle at about 1300m to the scree slope. Then climb a tussock ridge, heading north-west, and sidle into a good campsite at 1500m (map ref. O30/671108). Follow the gully and couloir at its head onto the south-west ridge, thence the normal Staircase Stream routes to the summit. (NB: don't descend the ridge between central and southern branches of Branch Stream - it ends in steep cliffs, or is guarded by dense scrub)." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": null }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/kaikoura/inland-kaikoura-range/tapuae-o-uenuku/east-ridge", "name": "East Ridge", "grade": "2", "topo_ref": "ER", "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": "2", "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "Via Clarence Valley. From the campsite of Branch Stream route , sidle an easy spur, into another campsite at about 1580m in the next tributary to the north. From a high basin east of the summit climb a steep couloir through bluffs and onto the summit slopes." } ], "quality": 1, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": null }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/kaikoura/inland-kaikoura-range/tapuae-o-uenuku/dee-stream-route", "name": "Dee Stream Route", "grade": "1", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": "1", "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "Via Clarence Valley. Go upstream through a patch of beech forest and past bluffs to a spur, which leads westwards to the summit slopes of East Ridge route. This spur can also be reached from the Branch Stream routes." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": null }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/kaikoura/inland-kaikoura-range/tapuae-o-uenuku/staircase-stream-routes", "name": "Staircase Stream Routes", "grade": "2", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": "2", "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "Via HODDER RV. \u2018Tappy\u2019 is mostly rock and scree in summer, when foot trails and occasional cairns mark the route. In winter this route is not technically difficult, but it's still a big climb. From the huts follow the terrace and then across scree to the junction with Staircase Stream. Keep to the true right of Staircase Stream, across terraces, to the waterfall creek. Continue up easy slopes towards the saddle between Alarm and Tapuae-o-Uenuku, then head east, angling left under a rocky peak 2711m and up the south-west ridge to the summit. An alternative is to sidle into a basin above the waterfall and then into the basin north-west of the summit. Climb from the head of the basin to the north ridge, or else directly south-west to the top. Descend the same way, or follow the north ridge and drop down a gully just before Pinnacle (2720m)." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Nehemiah McRae, probably 1864." }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/kaikoura/inland-kaikoura-range/tapuae-o-uenuku/tongue-spur", "name": "Tongue Spur", "grade": "2", "topo_ref": "TS", "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": "2", "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "Via HODDER RV. The spur is easily gained from the Hodder at a low saddle. Bypass Pinnacle by a traverse (on either side). A long route." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": null }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/kaikoura/inland-kaikoura-range/tapuae-o-uenuku/ornery-goat", "name": "The Ornery Goat", "grade": "4", "topo_ref": null, "image": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/route/route_marked_0.JPG?itok=gN6Ll8dF", "images": [ { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/route/route_marked_0.JPG?itok=gN6Ll8dF", "height": "244", "width": "325" } ], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "4", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": null } ], "quality": 1, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": "Start up deep gully in center of the south face. Two pitches to the hanging\nsnowfield then tend up and right towards the head-wall. Break the head-wall\nvia left ice runnel. The runnel was originally simul climbed but may require\npitching. Good natural protection can be found. This route tops out directly\non the summit.", "ascent": "Steve Fortune and Kieran Parsons, September 2012" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/kaikoura/inland-kaikoura-range/tapuae-o-uenuku/notch", "name": "The notch", "grade": "2", "topo_ref": "-41.99927, 173.6653", "image": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/route/CIMG3826.JPG?itok=O4FeRmo4", "images": [ { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/route/CIMG3826.JPG?itok=O4FeRmo4", "height": "244", "width": "325" } ], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "2", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": null } ], "quality": 1, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": "Climb into the valley below the south face. Look for the prominent gully\nleading to a deep notch in the skyline. Climb this and emerge in a high\ncirque on the east face. Traverse to the couloir as for the east ridge route\nto the summit.", "ascent": "Ed Harrison Willy McCoy October 2011" } ], "places": [], "image": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/wide/public/image/Screen%20shot%202011-06-29%20at%205.46.38%20PM%20%282%29.jpg?itok=j8JMa1Rv", "images": [ { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/wide/public/image/Screen%20shot%202011-06-29%20at%205.46.38%20PM%20%282%29.jpg?itok=j8JMa1Rv", "height": "495", "width": "840" } ] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki/main-divide/grey-pk": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki/main-divide/grey-pk", "name": "Grey Pk", "altitude": "2882m", "access": null, "description": null, "latlng": [ "-43.55775438", "170.18749237" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki/main-divide/grey-pk/various-routes", "name": "Various Routes", "grade": "1,II", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": "1", "commitment": "II", "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": null } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": "A short easy ascent from either Governor Col or Pioneer Pass.", "ascent": "Harold Porter, J Milne, A Ritchie, February 1925" } ], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/kaikoura/inland-kaikoura-range/mt-alarm": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/kaikoura/inland-kaikoura-range/mt-alarm", "name": "Mt Alarm", "altitude": "2877m", "access": "", "description": "Second highest peak in the Inland Kaikoura, featuring a spectacular steep drop from the summit to the south into Dart Stream (a tributary of the Clarence River).", "latlng": [ "-42.00938188", "173.63754272" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/kaikoura/inland-kaikoura-range/mt-alarm/north-east-ridge", "name": "North East Ridge", "grade": "2", "topo_ref": "A", "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": "2", "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "Via Hodder River. Follow Staircase Stream routes, to the saddle between Alarm and Tapuae-o-Uenuku and onto the ridge. The last 100m before the summit is steep and may require a rope." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "T H Fyffe, I E Rawnsley, 1928" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/kaikoura/inland-kaikoura-range/mt-alarm/north-face", "name": "North Face", "grade": "2", "topo_ref": "B", "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": "2", "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "Via Hodder River. An excellent winter or spring route. Ascend the highest Staircase Stream basin north of Alarm, angle southward up to a couloir in middle of face (with a steep step at the base which may be icy). Climb couloir directly up to the north-west ridge, slightly west of the summit, and scramble to the top. Two tools recommended." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": null }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/kaikoura/inland-kaikoura-range/mt-alarm/north-west-ridge", "name": "North West Ridge", "grade": "3+", "topo_ref": "C", "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": "3+", "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "Via Hodder River. The ridge is gained by easy slopes, either directly from Staircase Stream or by traversing from Muzzle Saddle. It consists of a jagged ridge with six major towers of loose rock, some of which require a rope." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "George Carr, Ray Vickers, July 1967" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/kaikoura/inland-kaikoura-range/mt-alarm/branch-stream-route", "name": "Branch Stream Route", "grade": "1", "topo_ref": "BS", "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": "1", "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "Gain the ridge above the campsite in the central branch of Branch Stream, sidle into the southern branch, and then to the col between Dart Stream and Staircase Stream. From here, follow the normal North East Ridge route." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "J H Rose, Laird Thomson, Frank Simmonds, January 1932" } ], "places": [], "image": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/wide/public/image/Alarm.JPG?itok=B4tf4Da6", "images": [ { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/wide/public/image/Alarm.JPG?itok=B4tf4Da6", "height": "613", "width": "740" }, { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/image/Screen%20shot%202011-06-29%20at%205.46.38%20PM%20-%20Copy.jpg?itok=1SXur2QZ", "height": "201", "width": "325" } ] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/canterbury/two-thumb-range/mt-d%E2%80%99archiac": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/canterbury/two-thumb-range/mt-d%E2%80%99archiac", "name": "Mt D\u2019Archiac", "altitude": "2875m", "access": "Those intending to climb Mt D\u2019Archiac and/or neighbouring peaks or planning to cross Separation Col into the Godley region will need to use the Havelock Valley for access. Terra Nova Pass can also be used to access the Godley from the Havelock.\nFour wheel drive vehicle access beyond Erewhon Station, at the head of the Rangitata River system, and some way up the Havelock, is possible, but access is dependent on the state of the rivers. For those on foot, cross the Clyde River after Erewhon Station and follow the north bank of the Havelock River to Freezing Point. Cross the Havelock River and continue to Mistake Flats Hut at the confluence of the Forbes and Havelock Rivers. This is an eight bunk DoC hut (~800m, grid ref: BX17 133 868) and is situated at the back of the flats near the beech forest. From Mistake Flats Hut to Separation Col allow 6-8hrs.", "description": "This mountain is the highest peak between the rest of the Aoraki/Mt Cook region and the Kaikoura Range. Its size and location allows it to be seen from as far as Ashburton.", "latlng": [ "-43.46494312", "170.58154106" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/canterbury/two-thumb-range/mt-d%E2%80%99archiac/north-ridge", "name": "North Ridge", "grade": null, "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "At the junction of the Godley and Dennistoun Glaciers ascend the broad based north ridge and a northern snow slope that follows. From here climb to the junction of two rock spurs that border either side of the northern snow slope. Ascend either a rocky couloir or a spur to the east. Traverse along good rock on the narrow north ridge. A large tower can be turned on the east. An interesting rock climb." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Neville Johnson, H J Newberry, Ian Powell, Dec 1934. The North Face was skiied by Mark Seddon and Kane Henderson in 1999." }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/canterbury/two-thumb-range/mt-d%E2%80%99archiac/east-ridge", "name": "East Ridge", "grade": "3-", "topo_ref": "ER", "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "3-", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "Reach the East Ridge from the upper South Forbes Glacier, either at Revelation Col or higher\r\n(which cuts out the lower part of the ridge). Alternatively, approach the ridge by traversing The\r\nOnlooker. A major couloir at the head of the South Forbes, known as The Motorway, offers\r\nanother variation to the upper reaches of the East Ridge, but is often cut off mid and late season.\r\nHigh on the East Ridge, where a snow crest abuts the mountain, either traverse up and right\r\non good rock, or traverse left to the upper reaches of The Motorway. Both lead to the rock and\r\nsnow of the summit ridge.\r\nAn alternative, in good snow conditions, is to take a rising traverse from Revelation Col across\r\nthe north-east face on to the north ridge." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Jim Dennistoun, Laurence Earle, Jack Clarke, Mar 1910 (climbed from the Forbes)" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/canterbury/two-thumb-range/mt-d%E2%80%99archiac/south-east-ridge", "name": "South East Ridge", "grade": "3", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "3", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "This classic 600m ridge can be climbed from either Separation Col or from the Forbes side. The ridge includes three rock steps the first of which can be turned on the eastern side. The latter two buttresses present more difficult climbing. Above the buttresses the climbing on the ridge becomes more straightforward and beyond the intersection with the East Ridge it usually entails a snow ridge (possibly corniced). In late summer the ridge may involve easy rock scrambling. The easiest descent is via the East Ridge (via a snow couloir first then down the ridge to Revelation Col)." } ], "quality": 1, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Jack Pattle, Trevor James, Bernie McClelland, Stan Conway, John Sampson, Feb 1951" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/canterbury/two-thumb-range/mt-d%E2%80%99archiac/south-west-ridge", "name": "South West Ridge", "grade": "3", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "3", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "Climb up the FitzGerald Glacier to about 2400m and gain the ridge. The ridge up to the junction with the north-west ridge involves some steep snow and the occasional section of poor rock punctuated with gendarmes." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Graeme Fyfe, Alf & Hunter Dowell, Peter Berry, Margaret Jeffereys, Dec 1953 (from the FitzGerald)" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/canterbury/two-thumb-range/mt-d%E2%80%99archiac/bandaid-route-south-face", "name": "The Bandaid Route (South Face)", "grade": "IV,4", "topo_ref": null, "image": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/route/D%27Archiac%20St%20Face1.jpg?itok=lfGVgSDH", "images": [ { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/route/D%27Archiac%20St%20Face1.jpg?itok=lfGVgSDH", "height": "244", "width": "325" } ], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": "IV", "mtcook": "4", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "The Bandaid route climbed on the central buttress, starting beside an outcrop on the right side of the buttress that offers protection from falling ice. From here move up a left trending corner groove (crux 15) for a pitch of very sustained rock climbing. Continue up and left to gain the crest of a central rib. Follow the rib to the summit. (McLeod's crampon was held together by elastoplast tape)." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Bill McLeod, Peter Dickson, Nov 1992" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/canterbury/two-thumb-range/mt-d%E2%80%99archiac/desire-south-face", "name": "Desire (South Face)", "grade": "5,V,WI4", "topo_ref": null, "image": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/route/42424654_246992095987094_8910370668751618048_n.jpg?itok=4p4cJ3b3", "images": [ { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/route/42424654_246992095987094_8910370668751618048_n.jpg?itok=4p4cJ3b3", "height": "244", "width": "325" } ], "length": "650m", "pitches": [ { "alpine": "5", "commitment": "V", "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": "WI4", "mixed": null, "length": "650m", "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": null } ], "quality": 1, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": "A direct line up the centre of the south face. Four 60m pitches of steep\nclimbing on a narrow ice flow connect the base of the south face to the upper\nsnowfields. The snowfields are linked by a series of ice steps to top out on\nthe summit (4-6 pitches or simul climbing).", "ascent": "Ben Ellis, Josh Mitchell, Jack Grinsted, September 2018" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/canterbury/two-thumb-range/mt-d%E2%80%99archiac/lust-south-face", "name": "Lust (South Face)", "grade": "5+,V,5+,WI5", "topo_ref": null, "image": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/routes/Lust.jpg?itok=ag7lF9yk", "images": [ { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/routes/Lust.jpg?itok=ag7lF9yk", "height": "244", "width": "325" } ], "length": "500m", "pitches": [ { "alpine": "5+", "commitment": "V", "mtcook": "5+", "aid": null, "ice": "WI5", "mixed": null, "length": "500m", "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": null } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": "The 'more desirable' of the two south face ice lines; a problematic close relation to \u2018Desire\u2019. Forms when ice links up on the right of the \u2018Band-Aid-Buttress\u2019, creating an hourglass figure \u2013 the pillar in the middle can be detached and thin (as for the FA). Route meets SE ridge approximately 50m from the summit. Descent was via a large couloir to the Dennistoun. Generally WI2/3 climbing (in condition), with a sustained, 60m, WI4 crux pitch - containing a 10m WI5 pillar (possibly easier in good condition). FA gear: Nuts (5 total \u2013 var sizes), Screws (x12). FA involved 5 pitches with additional sections of simul-climbing on connecting snow. 18-20 hours on FA from camp below Separation Glacier (In variable wx).", "ascent": "Sooji Clarkson, George Loomes, October 2020." }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/canterbury/two-thumb-range/mt-d%E2%80%99archiac/trident-glacier-route-then-west-ridge", "name": "Trident Glacier Route (then West Ridge)", "grade": "3+", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "3+", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "From Godley Hut follow the Godley Glacier to Marjorie Falls. Then climb scree slopes north-east of the falls to the Trident Glacier. Snow slopes then lead to the rocky West Ridge. Climb this, enjoying steep and interesting climbing to the summit." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "W H Scott, P F Scully, A Thompson, Betty Lorimer, 1935" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/canterbury/two-thumb-range/mt-d%E2%80%99archiac/fitzgerald-stream-route", "name": "FitzGerald Stream Route", "grade": null, "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "From Godley Hut travel up the FitzGerald Stream to join the West Ridge at about 2100m. To avoid a steep pitch on the ridge - cross the ridge onto the northern side and traverse the upper slopes of the Trident Glacier. Continue as for Trident Glacier Route." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Possible first ascent: Bob Unwin, Jack Stanton, Hallam Smith, 1940" } ], "places": [], "image": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/wide/public/image/D%27Archiac.png?itok=h6SEVqFC", "images": [ { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/wide/public/image/D%27Archiac.png?itok=h6SEVqFC", "height": "547", "width": "900" } ] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki/malte-brun-range/mt-nathan": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki/malte-brun-range/mt-nathan", "name": "Mt Nathan", "altitude": "2868m", "access": null, "description": "Mt Nathan is believed to be unclimbed directly from the Murchison valley.", "latlng": [ "-43.583751", "170.28477" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki/malte-brun-range/mt-nathan/north-east-ridge", "name": "North East Ridge", "grade": "2+", "topo_ref": "1", "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "2+", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "Rather loose, exposed climbing." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Mike Andrews, Donald Cargo, February 1973 (descended)" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki/malte-brun-range/mt-nathan/beetham-buttress", "name": "Beetham Buttress", "grade": "3", "topo_ref": "2", "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "3", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "Ascend the buttress right of the central gully on Barkley Face on mediocre quality rock." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Harry Clark, Craig Nottle, December 1982" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki/malte-brun-range/mt-nathan/south-west-ridge", "name": "South West Ridge", "grade": "2+", "topo_ref": "3", "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "2+", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "Gained either by the Barkley Glacier and a couloir to the low point in the ridge between Mts Nathan and Chudleigh, or via the North West Ridge of Mt Chudleigh to the head of the Barkley Glacier, and then up the couloir. From here follow the ridge up loose rock to the summit. Probably the easiest descent route." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Samuel Turner, February 1918" } ], "places": [], "image": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/wide/public/image/Nathan.jpg?itok=RXOHBi3r", "images": [ { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/wide/public/image/Nathan.jpg?itok=RXOHBi3r", "height": "287", "width": "600" } ] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki-tai-poutini/main-divide/hochstetter-dome": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki-tai-poutini/main-divide/hochstetter-dome", "name": "Hochstetter Dome", "altitude": "2837m", "access": null, "description": "", "latlng": [ "-43.50240053", "170.34949155" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki-tai-poutini/main-divide/hochstetter-dome/standard-traverse", "name": "Standard Traverse", "grade": "1", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "1", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "The south-east and north-west ridges are easily climbed. The shoulder on the south-east ridge above Lendenfeld Saddle is a regular ski run." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Dr and Anna von Lendenfeld, H Dew, Mar 1884." }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki-tai-poutini/main-divide/hochstetter-dome/south-face", "name": "South Face", "grade": "2", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "2", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "The small buttress on the south face of Hochstetter Dome visible from Tasman Saddle Hut has also been climbed." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "First ascent party unknown" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki-tai-poutini/main-divide/hochstetter-dome/north-face", "name": "North Face", "grade": "4", "topo_ref": "NF", "image": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/route/014.JPG?itok=r9wUohSv", "images": [ { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/route/014.JPG?itok=r9wUohSv", "height": "325", "width": "244" } ], "length": "1400m", "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "4", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": "1400m", "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "North Face Grade 4, 1400m\r\nA fantastic setting, a bit of spice, and a distinctly Himalayan feel. Objective hazard due to\r\nicecliffs and the aspect of the face was mimimised on the first ascent by climbing the lower\r\npart in the evening and then finishing the route the next day after a bivvy. From the Whymper\r\nGlacier tend right across a slabby rock face to a gully. Climb this to a shoulder then left back to\r\nthe central snowfield and straight up a gully to the headwall (crux). Head left again under the\r\nheadwall before going straight up when the terrain allows, to finish in the col between the two\r\nsummits of the Dome. Descent to the Tasman Glacier is straightforward." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Guy McKinnon September 2006" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki-tai-poutini/main-divide/hochstetter-dome/ski-touring", "name": "Ski Touring", "grade": null, "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "An appropriate first short tour is to Hochstetter Dome. From either hut climb to Aylmer Saddle (between the peaks of Hochstetter and Aylmer) and carry skis along the ridge to Hochstetter\u2019s High Peak (2827m). Alternatively ascend on skis by traversing under the high peak and approaching the Low Peak (2810m) from the west. A good long ski descent is from Low Peak via the broad western shoulder towards Lendenfeld saddle and then south-west towards the floor of the Tasman Glacier. 4-6 hours return to the hut." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": null } ], "places": [], "image": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/wide/public/image/Hoch%20Dome.png?itok=KlbyHMPR", "images": [ { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/wide/public/image/Hoch%20Dome.png?itok=KlbyHMPR", "height": "672", "width": "900" } ] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki/main-divide/mt-green": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki/main-divide/mt-green", "name": "Mt Green", "altitude": "2837m", "access": null, "description": null, "latlng": [ "-43.495147", "170.311663" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki/main-divide/mt-green/south-ridge", "name": "South Ridge", "grade": "3+", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "3+", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "From Climbers Col (access may be cut off late in the season) climb the first rock step direct then along a horizontal ar\u00eate and up the second step to where the ridge flattens. Then up a blocky ridge to summit." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "D Dawe, Hamish Maclnnes, Dick Irwin, Feb 1956." }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki/main-divide/mt-green/south-east-face", "name": "South East Face", "grade": "3+", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "3+", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "Take the gully in the centre of the face, depending on the condition of the upper face, join either the South Ridge or South East Buttress." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Kevin Carroll, John Andrews, Jan 1971." }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki/main-divide/mt-green/south-east-buttress", "name": "South East Buttress", "grade": "3+", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "3+", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "From the basin below Climbers Col head right and gain the prominent rib. Move up steep loose rock until some grey slabs (the Cod Piece) are met halfway up. Then continue up steep loose ground onto the upper part of the South Ridge." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Ian Cave, Mike Gill, John Nichols, Feb 1960." }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki/main-divide/mt-green/east-face-left-hand-trinity", "name": "East Face, Left Hand Trinity", "grade": "5-", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "5-", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "Take the obvious deep cut couloir on the left hand side of the face. Seven pitches, with occasional 80o sections, top out on the south ridge 3-4 pitches from the summit." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Mike Smith, Tony Dignan, Oct 1986." }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki/main-divide/mt-green/east-face-ne-ridge-main-divide", "name": "East Face NE Ridge (Main Divide)", "grade": "2", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "2", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "Climb up the broad plateau between Mts Green and Walter via the prominent SE ridge. Alternative routes onto the plateau exist, but the ridge is the best. Then either head up snowslopes on the East Face or the mixed snow/rock of the North East Ridge." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Alex Graham, Peter Graham, Ebenezer Teichelmann, F W Vollmann, Feb 1909 (NE Ridge)." }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki/main-divide/mt-green/pink-route", "name": "The Pink Route", "grade": "17,4", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "4", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": "17", "description": "On the North West Face. From the slopes leading down from Divers Col to the Spencer Glacier, ascend the rock face leading directly to the summit. Ten pitches" } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Phil Pitham, Mark Whetu, Feb 1983." }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki/main-divide/mt-green/west-ridge", "name": "West Ridge", "grade": "3", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "3", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "From the Spencer Glacier climb up onto the Edwards Glacier n\u00e9v\u00e9 below Climbers Col and head left onto the ridge. Follow the snowslopes and rock ribs to the summit. The ridge could also be gained from the slopes below Divers Col." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "D A Carty, L J Dumbleton, J D Willis, D J Stanton, Jan 1938." }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki/main-divide/mt-green/eatons-run", "name": "Eaton's run", "grade": null, "topo_ref": "West Face", "image": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/routes/Green%20West%20Face%20route.JPG?itok=VX3-FkeI", "images": [ { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/routes/Green%20West%20Face%20route.JPG?itok=VX3-FkeI", "height": "258", "width": "325" } ], "length": null, "pitches": [], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": "Access is via an excellent gully from the upper Stevenson Glacier. From the upper Edwards Neve climb through rock band on the left of the face to the steep snowfield. Then tend right on the snowfield to the base of the rock of the South West ridge.\nClimb into the odvious break and leads right ar first and will eventually bring you to the upper section of the South West ridge ant onto the summit.", "ascent": "Greg Duley, Emil Hansen & Don French 31/1/2021" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki/main-divide/mt-green/chocolate-cake", "name": "Chocolate Cake", "grade": "IV 6", "topo_ref": null, "image": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/routes/PXL_20230823_212023633.jpg?itok=PUq5HFVq", "images": [ { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/routes/PXL_20230823_212023633.jpg?itok=PUq5HFVq", "height": "325", "width": "183" }, { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/routes/PXL_20230823_000835217%20%281%29.jpg?itok=-LkyIx1t", "height": "325", "width": "274" } ], "length": null, "pitches": [], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": "Climbed during a lean snow season on mainly snice with a little bit of rock/water ice.\nAn engaging climb from start to finish. 250m of technical climbing + 100m of steep snow.\nThe crux second pitch (WI4+) goes directly up a smear of steep ice - an amazing pitch of alpine climbing.\nApproached via Divers Col route. Descent down this via Greens east face.", "ascent": "Adam Sanders, Justin Wimmer - Aug 2023" } ], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aspiring/forbes-mountains/mt-earnslaw-pikirakatahi-east-pk": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aspiring/forbes-mountains/mt-earnslaw-pikirakatahi-east-pk", "name": "Mt Earnslaw Pikirakatahi East Pk", "altitude": "2830m", "access": null, "description": "No mountain view could be more majestic and tantalising than that of the Earnslaw massif on a clear day, as one rounds the Bennett\u2019s Bluff on the Queenstown to Glenorchy Road. The Earnslaw massif features the twin peaks of Mount Earnslaw, the second and third highest peaks of Otago. Mt Earnslaw consists of two major peaks, the East Peak and the West Peak. The massif can be approached from either the Rees Valley via Kea Basin, or from the Dart, via the Bedford Valley.\nThe East Peak was first climbed by guide Harry Birley alone on 16 March 1890. The first traverse from the East Peak to the West Peak was by Scott Gilkison and A. Jackson on the 11th January 1933.", "latlng": [ "-44.62226029", "168.40990367" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aspiring/forbes-mountains/mt-earnslaw-pikirakatahi-east-pk/north-face", "name": "North Face", "grade": "1+,I", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": "0m", "pitches": [ { "alpine": "1+", "commitment": "I", "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": null } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": "0", "natural_pro": false, "description": "Scramble up through lower bluffs and slightly right up through scree slopes until ledges sloping steeply up to the left or a gully straight above give access through the main bluffs to the final easy slopes. Many variations are possible on the bluffs.", "ascent": "Kenneth Ross, Malcolm Ross, February 1892" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aspiring/forbes-mountains/mt-earnslaw-pikirakatahi-east-pk/east-face", "name": "East Face", "grade": "2,I", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": "0m", "pitches": [ { "alpine": "2", "commitment": "I", "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": null } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": "0", "natural_pro": false, "description": "Traverse on to the southern section of the Birley Glacier from Wright Col and then ascend directly to the north-east ridge. The route of the first ascent, but sees few ascents nowadays.", "ascent": "Harry Birley, 16 March 1890" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aspiring/forbes-mountains/mt-earnslaw-pikirakatahi-east-pk/south-east-ridge", "name": "South East Ridge", "grade": "2,II", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": "0m", "pitches": [ { "alpine": "2", "commitment": "II", "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": null } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": "0", "natural_pro": false, "description": "From Wright Col traverse round the Birley Glacier and snowfields to the south-east ridge. Alternatively, from the bivvy at E40 488 108 on the ridge to Esquilant Bivvy, gain the snowfields on the glacier under the East Peak and drop down to the col north of Black Peak. An alternative route is to gain the South East Ridge higher up above a prominent rocky buttress sticking out of the glacier.\nFrom Lennox Pass or the route from the Kea Basin track to Lennox Pass, gain ledges under and east of Peak 2026 at 1650m, then sidle right to the ridge leading to Black Peak. Traverse Black Peak and descend to the col. Traverse snow slopes on eastern side of ridge crest until regaining ridge. The route over Black Peak requires caution because of very loose rock. Alternatively, sidle round on the snowfields on the south side of Black Peak to gain the col and the south-east ridge.", "ascent": "Lawrence Earle, 1909" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aspiring/forbes-mountains/mt-earnslaw-pikirakatahi-east-pk/traverse-west-peak", "name": "Traverse from West Peak", "grade": "2,II", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": "0m", "pitches": [ { "alpine": "2", "commitment": "II", "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": null } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": "0", "natural_pro": false, "description": "From West Peak, travel either on snow or rock along the ridge joining the peaks, passing the gendarme on the north face. An alternative is to use the steep rotten gully leading to the col between the peaks (see Leader Route), which is accessible from the scree slopes leading round from Wright Col.", "ascent": null }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aspiring/forbes-mountains/mt-earnslaw-pikirakatahi-east-pk/south-face", "name": "South Face", "grade": "2,II", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": "0m", "pitches": [ { "alpine": "2", "commitment": "II", "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": null } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": "0", "natural_pro": false, "description": "From Wright Col traverse round the glacier and snowfields to gain the South Face.", "ascent": null } ], "places": [], "image": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/wide/public/image/Earnslaw_Massif_opt_0.jpeg?itok=2EfV8ozV", "images": [ { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/wide/public/image/Earnslaw_Massif_opt_0.jpeg?itok=2EfV8ozV", "height": "431", "width": "682" }, { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/image/Earnslaw1.jpg?itok=nVE8eIc7", "height": "325", "width": "230" } ] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki/main-divide/jellicoe": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki/main-divide/jellicoe", "name": "Jellicoe", "altitude": "2827m", "access": null, "description": "Hooker Gl", "latlng": [ "-43.59394379", "170.10492325" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki/main-divide/jellicoe/standard-routes", "name": "Standard Routes", "grade": "3", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "3", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "A route begins up under Mt Jellicoe and traverses up under Mt Low to the saddle right of the summit of Mt La Perouse. Then northwards over the summit of Low. Or along the divide." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Hugh Chambers, Conrad Kain, Hugh Wright, Feb 1915." } ], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki/liebig-range/mt-hutton": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki/liebig-range/mt-hutton", "name": "Mt Hutton", "altitude": "2822m", "access": null, "description": "Liebig Range", "latlng": [ "-43.60421646", "170.39087001" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki/liebig-range/mt-hutton/unnamed", "name": "Unnamed", "grade": null, "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "i) Head up beside the waterfall, over grass and scree to the hanging valley west of the peak. Continue to the crest of the ridge and follow for 800m to the summit, traversing snow domes along the way. \r\nii) Scramble up grass and scree to the glacier north of the peak and then climb a snow gully to the north-east ridge. Traverse south-west over low peak to high peak.\r\niii) From Rutherford Pass traverse north-east along a rock and snow ridge to the summit, over 3 km away! Alternatively, and no doubt easier, cross the pass and travel along the remnant Ridge Glacier and snow slopes on the south-east side of the Liebig Range. \r\niv) From the Cass Valley. Gain the Ridge Glacier or Rutherford Pass then continue as for iii. This is a good route to ski tour." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Otto Frind, Conrad Kain, Jan 1914" } ], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aspiring/forbes-mountains/mt-earnslaw-pikirakatahi-west-pk": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aspiring/forbes-mountains/mt-earnslaw-pikirakatahi-west-pk", "name": "Mt Earnslaw Pikirakatahi West Pk", "altitude": "2820m", "access": null, "description": "The West Peak was first climbed by H F Wright and J Robertson on 6 February 1914.", "latlng": [ "-44.625751", "168.395534" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aspiring/forbes-mountains/mt-earnslaw-pikirakatahi-west-pk/wright-robertson-route", "name": "Wright Robertson Route", "grade": "II,2", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": "0m", "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": "II", "mtcook": "2", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": null } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": "0", "natural_pro": false, "description": "Gain access to a scree shelf by scrambling though first rocks on the north-east shoulder of the East Peak and then follow the scree shelf round until directly under West Peak. Here a chimney leads up 500m directly to the summit. The foot of the chimney can be reached from the standard route to Pluto Col from Wright Col.", "ascent": "H.F. Wright and J. Robertson, 6 February 1914." }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aspiring/forbes-mountains/mt-earnslaw-pikirakatahi-west-pk/rime-waits-no-man", "name": "Rime waits for no man", "grade": "3+,III", "topo_ref": null, "image": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/2024-05/20240505_074450.jpg?itok=J7WNVDku", "images": [ { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/2024-05/20240505_074450.jpg?itok=J7WNVDku", "height": "244", "width": "325" }, { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/2024-05/20240505_074454.jpg?itok=CTLQK27A", "height": "244", "width": "325" }, { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/2024-05/20240505_080851.jpg?itok=QnEUpN-i", "height": "244", "width": "325" }, { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/2024-05/20240505_085450.jpg?itok=Tpxot_6I", "height": "244", "width": "325" }, { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/2024-05/Beisly-Macfarlane%20Topo.jpg?itok=uQ7VdwoY", "height": "256", "width": "325" }, { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/2024-05/Beisly-Macfarlane2.jpg?itok=KU6kqTvh", "height": "244", "width": "325" } ], "length": "400m", "pitches": [ { "alpine": "3+", "commitment": "III", "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": "400m", "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": null } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": "0", "natural_pro": false, "description": "Takes an easy sneak onto the most dominant rib on the NF. Can be climbed as rock or mixed route depending on conditions. From the traverse from Wright col / Esquilant towards Pluto, head up towards the largest steepest rock wall on the West Peak (facing the biv). At the base, follow an easy snow gully angling up right, gaining the highest rib on the North Face at half- height (around right of gendarmes - walk behind these). Follow this (scrambling, sometimes exposed) on convoluted gullies and corners right of the crest, finishing on two easy roped mixed pitches to top out high on the East Ridge (a rock corner, then a snow gully with ice step to a final 5m stemming chimney). A single rope, an ice screw or two and a light rock rack are sufficient. Descent options include Wright-Robertson couloir, Traverse to E Peak and standard NF descent, or possibly NW ridge or W face of W Peak.\nFeels like a route from the early era. Rock surprisingly reasonable, although not as excellent as they made out in the 30's!", "ascent": "Gregg Beisly, Ruari Macfarlane, May 2024" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aspiring/forbes-mountains/mt-earnslaw-pikirakatahi-west-pk/leader-route", "name": "Leader Route", "grade": "II,2", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": "0m", "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": "II", "mtcook": "2", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": null } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": "0", "natural_pro": false, "description": "From Wright Col traverse shelf as in Route 6 but when under the col in the ridge between the East and West Peaks ascend a steep crack of rotten rock to the col. After a short deviation on to the steep South Face, ascend the ridge to the summit.", "ascent": "V.J. Leader, 10 March 1935." }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aspiring/forbes-mountains/mt-earnslaw-pikirakatahi-west-pk/north-ridge", "name": "North Ridge", "grade": "2+,II", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": "0m", "pitches": [ { "alpine": "2+", "commitment": "II", "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": null } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": "0", "natural_pro": false, "description": "From Pluto Col climb up the north ridge until, at about 150m below the peak, a traverse is made to the left across a small couloir to a subsidiary ridge overlooking the West Peak Couloir. The left side of this subsidiary ridge is climbed back to the main ridge, which is followed towards the summit slope via a narrow ice ridge.", "ascent": "Scott Gilkison, Arthur Jackson, Doug Knowles, Jock Sim, December 1932" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aspiring/forbes-mountains/mt-earnslaw-pikirakatahi-west-pk/west-face-southwest-ridge", "name": "West Face \u2013 Southwest Ridge", "grade": "II,2", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": "0m", "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": "II", "mtcook": "2", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": null } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": "0", "natural_pro": false, "description": "From Spaniard Valley climb up to and over scree until hard under the point at which Seven Sisters Ridge joins the ridge from Turret Head. Here a couloir of loose rock leads to a notch in the main ridge. The first detour necessary is made on the Spaniard Valley side but further up a detour is forced on the Earnslaw Glacier side on steep ice. Some earlier attempts at this route via Turret Head failed, one of these at the point where a detour on to the Earnslaw Glacier became necessary due to conditions, but otherwise this route is feasible.", "ascent": null }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aspiring/forbes-mountains/mt-earnslaw-pikirakatahi-west-pk/south-face-east-ridge", "name": "South Face \u2013 East Ridge", "grade": "II,2", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": "0m", "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": "II", "mtcook": "2", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": null } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": "0", "natural_pro": false, "description": "From Earnslaw Burn climb to the col between Black Peak and the East Peak before traversing across the Earnslaw Glacier and ascending diagonally through icefalls to reach the ridge between the East and West Peaks to the west of the lowest point. Then follow the ridge, detouring as necessary on the glacier side.", "ascent": null }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aspiring/forbes-mountains/mt-earnslaw-pikirakatahi-west-pk/south-face", "name": "South Face", "grade": "II,2", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": "0m", "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": "II", "mtcook": "2", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": null } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": "0", "natural_pro": false, "description": "Scramble up through lower bluffs and slightly right up through scree slopes until ledges sloping steeply up to the left give access through the main bluffs to the final easy slopes. Start on scrub covered ledges on the true right of the Earnslaw Burn, then ascend the right hand ice rib.", "ascent": "Peter Glasson, Colin Strang, January 1973" } ], "places": [], "image": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/wide/public/image/Earnslaw_Massif_opt_2.jpeg?itok=YrFS273J", "images": [ { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/wide/public/image/Earnslaw_Massif_opt_2.jpeg?itok=YrFS273J", "height": "431", "width": "682" }, { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/image/Earnslaw1_0.jpg?itok=OVosRIWi", "height": "325", "width": "230" } ] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki/liebig-range/mt-ronald-adair": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki/liebig-range/mt-ronald-adair", "name": "Mt Ronald Adair", "altitude": "2818m", "access": null, "description": "tba", "latlng": [ "-43.592062", "170.400919" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki/liebig-range/mt-ronald-adair/unnamed", "name": "Unnamed", "grade": null, "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "Once above the Murchison Glacier climb grass and snow slopes to the north ridge, follow this across loose rock and the odd snow patch to the summit. An alternative is to traverse the Liebig Range from Hutton." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Alf Brustad, Kenneth Grinling, Adair Algie, Ronald Algie, Jan 1927" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki/liebig-range/mt-ronald-adair/east-face", "name": "East Face", "grade": null, "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "Access from Rankin Stream." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Rob Moffat, Steve Tulley, Gerry Essenberg, Jul 1993" } ], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/canterbury/sibbald-range/mt-sibbald": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/canterbury/sibbald-range/mt-sibbald", "name": "Mt Sibbald", "altitude": "2811m", "access": "Although outside the AMCNP boundary, Mt Sibbald is a prominent peak and a popular climb. The usual approach is from the Macaulay Valley. Macaulay Hut, described at the beginning of the Godley Valley section, provides a good base. However, a high bivvy could be useful.", "description": "Named after Captain Sibbald, the first runholder at Lilybank Station, Mt Sibbald was first climbed\nby Edgar Williams and William Kennedy in 1917 from Lucifer Flat in the Godley Valley. A successful\nclimb from the glacier on the northern slopes (now the standard route) was made in 1934 by C N\nJohnson, H J Newberry and I Powell from McKinnon Stream (a tributary of the Godley River), but\nthis route is now usually reached from the Macaulay Valley.\nMt Sibbald is relatively easy to reach and, being east of the Main Divide, is away from the worst of\nthe westerly weather, making the climb a popular two-day trip. The usual approach is from Macaulay\nHut although a camp further upstream or a high bivvy may be beneficial as the summit is a 1700-metre\nclimb from the Macaulay riverbed \u2013 there is good camping at the tarn in Upper Tindill Stream. Mt\nSibbald has three peaks. A climb of the northern summit is straightforward and gives good views.\nHowever, reaching the higher south summit requires some exposed, delicate footwork along a rotten\nand towered ridge and this frequently causes more cautious groups to turn back. A rope might be\nhelpful.\nPhoto; Mt Sibbald from the north-east. Skyline snow slopes in sun to the right drain into\nMcKinnon Stream, Godley catchment, while the partly shaded slopes below and left\nof the summit drain into Upper Tindill Stream in the Macaulay catchment. Mike Andrews", "latlng": [ "-43.55198989", "170.55407688" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/canterbury/sibbald-range/mt-sibbald/bohemoths-corridor", "name": "Bohemoth's Corridor", "grade": "2+", "topo_ref": null, "image": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/route/Sibbald_west%20face_1.jpg?itok=CCxaKIMH", "images": [ { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/route/Sibbald_west%20face_1.jpg?itok=CCxaKIMH", "height": "237", "width": "325" } ], "length": "300m", "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "2+", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": "300m", "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": null } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": "This route climbs a 300m couloir through centre of West Face buttress. It has\none mixed step to begin with (M3), continues as a snow gully with some more\nmixed terrain on exit. It tops out closer to South rather than North summit\nof Mt. Sibbald. Some route finding required to exit Lucifer stream. Descended\nWest Face.", "ascent": "Tom Torok, Keeley Rhynd, August 2018" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/canterbury/sibbald-range/mt-sibbald/north-ridge", "name": "North Ridge", "grade": "2+", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "2+", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "From the upper reaches of the Macaulay Valley follow the Upper Tindill Stream to gain the saddle north of the peak. Then follow steep glacier slopes south to the north summit - the traverse from the north to the main peak (south) is mostly rock now and has one or two difficult spots.\r\n\r\nSki option: Ski from the South Summit all the way to the Macaulay Valley floor." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "J Howie, R Wills, Jan 1948" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/canterbury/sibbald-range/mt-sibbald/unnamed", "name": "Unnamed", "grade": null, "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "From McKinnon Stream in the Godley, then onto the North Ridge.\r\n\r\nA variation: use McKinnon Stream and then scree slopes directly to the North Ridge." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Neville Johnson, H J Newberry, Ian Powell, Dec 1934. Variation first climbed by Ross Cullen, Peter Fowler, Pip Lynch, Jeremy McMahon, Dec 1981." }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/canterbury/sibbald-range/mt-sibbald/from-lucifer-flat", "name": "From Lucifer Flat", "grade": null, "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "From Lucifer Flat in the Godley." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Edgar Williams, Will Kennedy, Dec 1917" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/canterbury/sibbald-range/mt-sibbald/south-east-ridge", "name": "South East Ridge", "grade": "2+", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "2+", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "First climbed as part of a traverse, from the north branch of the Macaulay, using the south-west ridge as a descent." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "G D T Hall, A H Hines, L Whitworth, Jan 1936" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/canterbury/sibbald-range/mt-sibbald/south-west-ridge", "name": "South West Ridge", "grade": "2", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "2", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "This route was descended as part of a South West Ridge \u2013 South East Ridge traverse and can be\r\naccessed from the Upper Tindill Stream catchment." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Duncan Hall, Albert Hines, L Whitworth (descended), January 1936" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/canterbury/sibbald-range/mt-sibbald/north-west-ridge", "name": "North West Ridge", "grade": "2", "topo_ref": null, "image": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/route/P2030023.JPG?itok=Iiha79dH", "images": [ { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/route/P2030023.JPG?itok=Iiha79dH", "height": "244", "width": "325" }, { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/route/P2030026.JPG?itok=mVnniwxI", "height": "244", "width": "325" } ], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "2", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": null } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": "From McKinnon strean make way up steep scree to low point west of pt 1991.\nTraverse ridge, defaulting to the northern side when required. The scambling\ngets more interesting at pt 2516. After the last of the difficulties are\npast here, you can travel on snowfields at join the origional normal to the\nsummit.", "ascent": "Eric Duggan, Dan Donaldson, Don French, Peter Lawenson 3/2/2015" } ], "places": [], "image": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/wide/public/image/Sibbald.jpg?itok=wXbcqnTH", "images": [ { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/wide/public/image/Sibbald.jpg?itok=wXbcqnTH", "height": "634", "width": "900" } ] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki/main-divide/mt-vic": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki/main-divide/mt-vic", "name": "Mt Vic", "altitude": "2807m", "access": null, "description": null, "latlng": [ "-43.50553009", "170.2848435" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki/main-divide/mt-vic/tasman-glacier", "name": "From the Tasman Glacier", "grade": "3-", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "3-", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "Unclimbed directly from the Tasman Glacier. Ascend via Mt Coronet and Mt Meeson." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Frank Alack, Katie Gardiner, Vic Williams, Feb 1934." }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki/main-divide/mt-vic/west-rib", "name": "West Rib", "grade": "15,4", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "4", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": "15", "description": "From the Spencer Glacier, the lower rib involves climbing in gullies on the right of the icefall (watch out for ice blocks). The gullies may be snow-filled. The route emerges onto a rock ar\u00eate that continues in a series of buttresses and ar\u00eates before the final snow and rock ridge to the summit. Crux grade 15 in the lower section. The route could have a number of variations." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Mike Andrews, Bill King, Pete Swanson, Jan 1981." } ], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki/fritz-range/mt-barnicoat": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki/fritz-range/mt-barnicoat", "name": "Mt Barnicoat", "altitude": "2800m", "access": null, "description": "The route by which the first ascent of this peak was made is not clear.\nPeter Graham, J Milne, Julian Grande, Mar 1923 (possibly from the Franz side).", "latlng": [ "-43.526437", "170.209289" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki/fritz-range/mt-barnicoat/your-rocker", "name": "Off Your Rocker", "grade": "5,II,WI4", "topo_ref": null, "image": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/routes/Barnicoat.jpg?itok=KCW_Pac5", "images": [ { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/routes/Barnicoat.jpg?itok=KCW_Pac5", "height": "325", "width": "230" } ], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": "5", "commitment": "II", "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": "WI4", "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": null } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": "Up Snow slope into corner with 5 pitches of great ice climbing crux WI 4.", "ascent": "Asher March, Steve Greavs August 2017" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki/fritz-range/mt-barnicoat/rope-boy", "name": "Rope Boy", "grade": "4+", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "4+", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "Start up the obvious corner-ramp, directly under the high peak, moving left a quarter of the way up. Join ice patches by zig zagging, finishing between the east (high) and west peaks. About half way up there is a rock band (crux) with a chimney that connects the upper and lower snowfields. Descent: head over the west peak to a low point before Mallory (may involve an abseil), then a short steep rappel onto a snowfield to the south-west, then backclimb or rappel to the n\u00e9v\u00e9. A very pleasant 6 pitch mixed climb." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Don French, Mar 1993." }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki/fritz-range/mt-barnicoat/lust-life", "name": "Lust for Life", "grade": "5+", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "5+", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "It starts immediately left of the bottom of Tigger. Tigger is the striking ramp ice line that runs nearly the length of the face angling from left to right. Please note: Lust for Life bears no resemblance to Rope Boy. Apart from the possibility that Rope Boy probably has a lust for life.\r\n Cross the schrund and climb a 5 metre vertical step. This was the start used on the first ascent but on the second ascent it was poorly formed overhanging chandelier ice. A better alternative is a narrow slot just to the right. This is steep mixed climbing with good rock pro. There is a good piton placement on the right wall near the bottom. This pitch ends after another 30 metres of moderate ice." }, { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "Head up and slightly right on steep ice aiming for the solid white line above. It's probably better to shorten this pitch rather than belaying on the 80 degree ice above." }, { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "Climb a short step of vertical ice then veer left and pick your way up through some tight gullies between rock outcrops. A fun interesting pitch." }, { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "This is the crux. A 40 metre sustained pitch of 80-85 degree ice that angles slightly from left to right. The exposure increases as you gain height, with overhanging ground above and below. The first ascent traversed in from the left at about half height due to the bottom section of the line not being formed. The climbing on the traverse was difficult mixed. Really good fun!" }, { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "Another good pitch of steepish ice that finishes where the angle of the wall eases. Another 2 pitches of straightforward gulley climbing leads to the summit ridge. A good way to descend could be to rap the route on V threads and rock anchors. The snow slope on the Franz Josef side isn't recommended as it is an avalanche prone, death on a stick, slop fest after being baked by the sun." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Craig Jefferies, Allan Uren, Sep 1999." }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki/fritz-range/mt-barnicoat/tigger-iii-4", "name": "Tigger III, 4+", "grade": "4,III,4+", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": "4", "commitment": "III", "mtcook": "4+", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "One of the best-looking lines in this fair land.\r\nAscend the obvious right-leaning ramp, finishing\r\nright of the summit. About six pitches of\r\nsustained 65-70 degree ice and mixed climbing\r\nwith some vertical bulges. Unless you\u2019re going to\r\nthe summit, descend East Shoulder route" } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "David Kneen, Marcel Geelen, Dec 1999." }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki/fritz-range/mt-barnicoat/east-shoulder", "name": "East Shoulder", "grade": "III,3+", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": "III", "mtcook": "3+", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "Right of the south face of Barnicoat, just right of\r\nthe dominant bluff. The top half sports ice up to 55\r\ndegrees. A good climb for those not looking for a big\r\nday out. The first ascent party descended the route." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Stu Gray, Brian Williamson, Jan 1987." }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki/fritz-range/mt-barnicoat/white-line", "name": "White Line", "grade": "4,III", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": "4", "commitment": "III", "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "On the far right of the Barnicoat massif is a\r\nbuttress with a narrow gully running up it.\r\nTwo to three pitches lead to a snowfield that is\r\nclimbed for another two to three pitches to the\r\ncrest. This is a good fun route you can climb even\r\non an inclement day." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Ben Hawthorne, Stuart Hollaway, Nick Morgan, Sept 2006" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki/fritz-range/mt-barnicoat/massive-settlement", "name": "Massive settlement", "grade": "4/4+", "topo_ref": null, "image": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/routes/BC21FAAC-31DD-4C42-9A85-D6358BC3D8DE.jpeg?itok=Un7yk_J3", "images": [ { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/routes/BC21FAAC-31DD-4C42-9A85-D6358BC3D8DE.jpeg?itok=Un7yk_J3", "height": "325", "width": "244" }, { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/routes/E4AECF2C-C5DB-4091-BCAC-365B65DEBF6B.jpeg?itok=R-ZWo5QY", "height": "325", "width": "244" } ], "length": null, "pitches": [], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": "Named after the epic snow settlement experienced by the climbers on the previous day.\nFollows a line between Tigger and the East shoulder. Start 20m left of the east shoulder route. Climb series of ice steps up corner section, with good rock belay just below broken icefall. Can then climb broken icefall to rock overhang, or pass the icefall and climb mixed corner to same overhang. There are two pitons in alcove at lookers left of this overhang. Then continue toward East shoulder route and climb the last pitch shared with this route. We found mixed pitches of great ice and neve", "ascent": "Chris Hill and Dan Fruehauf September 2019" } ], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/ni/tongariro/mt-ruapehu": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/ni/tongariro/mt-ruapehu", "name": "Mt Ruapehu", "altitude": "2797m", "access": "As a general rule, Whakapapa is the best place to access northern and western routes; Turoa the western and southern routes; and Tukino the southern and eastern routes.\nAll the same, many routes, especially those that start from the Summit Plateau or Crater Lake areas, are accessible from all three major road-ends.\nThe easiest way to access the Summit Plateau and Crater Lake is from the Whakapapa ski area.", "description": "Ruapehu dominates the North Island\u2019s central plateau. Its great bulk is visible in the distance across much of the North Island. Crossing the state highway bridge at Wanganui, for example, it forms a surprising climax to the view upriver. On a clear day, the mountain can even be seen from the South Island.\nRemember that you are on an active volcano. Eruptions large enough to be hazardous to people within the active crater basin (within the circle of Dome, Paretetaitonga and Tahurangi) have a return period of about 10 years. Outside the crater basin the return period is about 20 years. In the last 60 years, a signi\ufb01cant proportion of these eruptions have occurred more or less without warning (so called \u2018blue sky\u2019 eruptions). Lahars (volcanic mud\ufb02ows) can \ufb02ow down any of the major valleys during major eruptions, although only down the Whangaehu valley in smaller ones. If an eruption occurs, get out of the valley \ufb02oors immediately.", "latlng": [ "-39.2787", "175.567" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/ni/tongariro/mt-ruapehu/whakapapa-glacier-knob", "name": "From Whakapapa via Glacier Knob", "grade": "1,I", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": "1000m", "pitches": [ { "alpine": "1", "commitment": "I", "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": "1000m", "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "This is the most popular way to access the Summit Plateau and Crater Lake. Until well into summer, most years, snow blankets the upper mountain. But by autumn the steaming Crater Lake is ringed by stark burnt-orange rocks and dark, ash-covered snow\ufb01elds \u2013 dramatic evidence that the volcano is a restless environment, a place not quite of this world. Although one-way lift tickets up the ski\ufb01eld are available in winter, and during the summer holiday period, \ufb01rst-time visitors may want to walk, if only to gain a better idea of the topography of the mountain: it is not that straightforward. \r\nIn summer, guided walks begin from the top of the ski\ufb01eld chairlifts, up a scoria track to the Crater Lake. In winter, the short climb to the Summit Plateau from the Whakapapa ski\ufb01eld is many North Islanders\u2019 \ufb01rst true alpine experience. \r\nFrom the carpark you can reach the vicinity of the NZAC Ruapehu Hut in about 90 minutes. Follow Tennents Valley to Hut Flat, and then a poled route climbs up Egmont Ridge behind (west of) the Ruapehu Ski Club lodges onto the western side of Delta Ridge. The hut is on the brow of this ridge at 2040m elevation (grid ref 310138). From here there are two main routes. Note that parts of both routes lie in paths followed by lahars on the three occasions they have been recorded on this side of the mountain. Two of these, in 1969 and 1975, occurred in \u2018blue sky\u2019 eruptions. \r\nFrom Delta Corner (the rocky end of Delta Ridge) it\u2019s about another 90 minutes to Glacier Knob. Climb up \u2018The Gut\u2019 \u2013 a popular ski gully between Knoll Ridge and Restful Ridge \u2013 and continue beyond straight up the broad valley to the obvious knob on the skyline. Alternatively, just before the top sidle up and slightly to the climber\u2019s left (east) to reach The Notch. This gives direct access to the Summit Plateau. In winter, watch for snow loading from the westerly quarter. From Glacier Knob it\u2019s worth going south along the ridge to The Dome at 2672m. Here you overlook Crater Lake, and beyond is Tahurangi, the true summit of Ruapehu. Dome Shelter is a small emergency shelter, not intended for overnight use, on top of The Dome at grid ref 313113. During winter the door is often buried by snow and ice, so there is a hatch in the roof for emergency access. This shelter will be removed \u2018when it falls due for replacement\u2019. Check with DoC on its current status." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": null }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/ni/tongariro/mt-ruapehu/whakapapa-whakapapa-glacier", "name": "From Whakapapa via Whakapapa Glacier", "grade": "1,I", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": "1000m", "pitches": [ { "alpine": "1", "commitment": "I", "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": "1000m", "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "From the carpark you can reach the vicinity of the NZAC Ruapehu Hut in about 90 minutes. Follow Tennents Valley to Hut Flat, and then a poled route climbs up Egmont Ridge behind (west of) the Ruapehu Ski Club lodges onto the western side of Delta Ridge. The hut is on the brow of this ridge at 2040m elevation (grid ref 310138). From here there are two main routes. Note that parts of both routes lie in paths followed by lahars on the three occasions they have been recorded on this side of the mountain. Two of these, in 1969 and 1975, occurred in \u2018blue sky\u2019 eruptions.\r\nFrom Delta Corner climb to the south-west, through the \u2018Cornice Bowl\u2019 to reach the top of the Far West T-bar (300m climb, about 45 minutes). From here, continue up the wide valley to reach The Col between The Dome and Paretetaitonga (a further 300m, another 45 minutes). It is a short climb from the Col to the Dome, best made by continuing around underneath and then back up the eastern ridge. In poor visibility the Glacier Knob route is a better descent; when descending the Whakapapa Glacier care needs to be taken to head north-northeast so as to regain the ski\ufb01eld. Failure to do this will leave you amidst the exposed blu\ufb00s of the upper Whakapapaiti valley \u2013 a long long way from anywhere. \r\nThe Whakapapa Glacier formerly \ufb01lled the upper reaches of the valley leading to The Col. Fifty years ago, on April 2, 1954, crevasses across the upper glacier forced Tom and Doris Barcham hard under Paretetaitonga, and then under the Dome to traverse Pyramid. Finally, on Tahurangi they met \u2018very steep hard compacted ash. Cut many steps!\u2019 Earlier that same year, New Zealand Canoeing Association members carried a rubber dingy up to explore Crater Lake. Although people have swum in the lake, with a fairly constant acidity of pH 1 this cannot be recommended. There is a story, possibly apocryphal, about a boat once kept near the crater for research purposes. Over time, the acidity ate away at the nails holding the craft together until on one fateful voyage . . ." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": null }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/ni/tongariro/mt-ruapehu/t%C5%ABroa-pare-col", "name": "From T\u016broa via Pare Col", "grade": "1,I", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": "1000m", "pitches": [ { "alpine": "1", "commitment": "I", "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": "1000m", "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": null } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": "From T\u016broa skifield car park at the end of the Ohakune Mountain Road, walk or skin up the Home Run cat track to Broadbents Flat and the upper western edge of the ski field. One-way lift tickets are not available on this side of the mountain. From about 2200m begin a rising traverse in a northerly direction, aiming for a broad ridge at about 2350m, and on (over rough scree by late summer) into the Mangaturuturu Glacier basin. Pare Col is at the head of this snow\ufb01eld, overlooking Te Wai \u0101-moe (Crater Lake).", "ascent": null }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/ni/tongariro/mt-ruapehu/t%C5%ABkino-whangaehu-glacier", "name": "From T\u016bkino via Whangaehu Glacier", "grade": "1,I", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": "900m", "pitches": [ { "alpine": "1", "commitment": "I", "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": "900m", "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "" } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": "From the T\u016bkino ski field car park at 1700m, climb the rocky spur south of the upper rope tow. Avoid the gully on your left (south) at all costs; it can harbour a significant avalanche hazard. A poled route leads up in a westerly direction, past a large lava outcrop (the Luncheon Rock) and crossing several shallow gullies, to a prominent marker pole at 2150m. From the marker pole, the NZAC Whangaehu Hut can be seen about 100m below to the south, perched on a spectacular bluff above the Whangaehu River.\nPick a traverse line across and onto the lower Whangaehu Glacier. Take care here: these slopes can get very icy. In good snow conditions it\u2019s possible to keep fairly high, but often it is better to descend to about 2000m and then traverse across and down into the valley. Once on the glacier it\u2019s a long, steady climb up the gently convex slope.", "ascent": null }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/ni/tongariro/mt-ruapehu/t%C5%ABkino-mangatoetoenui-glacier", "name": "From T\u016bkino via Mangatoetoenui Glacier", "grade": "1,I", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": "900m", "pitches": [ { "alpine": "1", "commitment": "I", "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": "900m", "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": null } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": "From the T\u016bkino ski field car park at 1700m, climb the rocky spur south of the upper rope tow. Avoid the gully on your left (south) at all costs; it can harbour a significant avalanche hazard. A poled route leads up in a westerly direction, past a large lava outcrop (the \u2018Luncheon Rock\u2019) and crossing several gullies, to a prominent marker pole at 2150m. From the marker pole, the NZAC Whangaehu Hut can be seen about 100m below to the south, perched on a spectacular bluff above the Whangaehu River.\nFrom the marker pole, take a rising traverse north-west. The most direct route is to aim for Button\u2019s Buttress, the large bluff on the south side of the glacier proper, and then climb up a wide snow gully to reach the Summit Plateau north of Matihao.", "ascent": null } ], "places": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/ni/tongariro/mt-ruapehu/whakapapa-skifield", "name": "Whakapapa Skifield", "altitude": null, "access": null, "description": "Scouting around for short ice routes on the blu\ufb00s and crags that abound on the ski area can be a better bet than the Pinnacles if you are feeling cooped up during mediocre weather at Ruapehu Hut. The ice routes described here are at relatively low altitudes, and conditions tend to be at their best during the early winter season from April to July when temperatures are low \u2013 and before heavy snowfalls. It\u2019s a good idea, though, to adopt a \ufb02exible approach; keep in mind that from day to day, climbing conditions can change rapidly and dramatically at any time of year.\nFor rock climbing information in this area, including Whakapapa Gorge and Meads Wall, see climbnz.org.nz/nz/ni/tongariro.", "latlng": null, "routes": [], "places": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/ni/tongariro/mt-ruapehu/whakapapa/broken-leg-gully", "name": "Broken Leg Gully", "altitude": null, "access": null, "description": "Several rock routes exist in this gully, on a section of pillared cliff at the bottom of the North West Face of Great Pinnacle. Most are naturally protected, but a prominent and attractive ar\u00eate has a couple of bolts (these are fairly old and should be treated with caution). The ar\u00eate is about grade 21.\nAt the head of Broken Leg Gully an ephemeral but vertical fang of ice forms in early winter. About 15m high, it is often sheltered from the wind. Several other 20\u201330m lines have been climbed in the lower gully, although they can be exposed to avalanche hazard from Grand Gully after heavy snowfalls. Grades WI2\u20134, around 15m high.", "latlng": [ "-39.24631299", "175.56499958" ], "routes": [], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/ni/tongariro/mt-ruapehu/whakapapa/haensli-face", "name": "Haensli Face", "altitude": null, "access": null, "description": "Just a short distance from Ruapehu Hut, at the bottom of The Gut and adjacent to the Haensli Face, are two small cirques with waterfall ice at their heads and ice smears on the periphery. Grid ref 312133. Both steep lead climbs and shorter boulder problems are possible early in the season \u2013 later, as skiers arrive, the ski\ufb01eld\u2019s snow management tends to \ufb01ll the area with snow. Grades around WI2, 10\u201315m high.", "latlng": [ "-39.25644895", "175.56311131" ], "routes": [], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/ni/tongariro/mt-ruapehu/whakapapa/delta-corner", "name": "Delta Corner", "altitude": null, "access": null, "description": "Delta Ridge is the spur that Ruapehu Hut sits on. The ridge ends at Delta Corner, only a couple of minutes\u2019 walk south of the hut. A variety of ice smears and mixed routes can be found here and on the cliffs that run parallel to the Waterfall T-bar, down from the corner. Grades WI1\u20133, 5\u201315m high.", "latlng": [ "-39.2533917", "175.56190968" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/ni/tongariro/mt-ruapehu/whakapapa/delta-corner/first-cruxes", "name": "First cruxes", "grade": "M4", "topo_ref": null, "image": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/route/Ruapehu%20October%202012%20008%20edit.JPG?itok=FQLUm6hd", "images": [ { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/route/Ruapehu%20October%202012%20008%20edit.JPG?itok=FQLUm6hd", "height": "325", "width": "244" } ], "length": "8m", "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": "M4", "length": "8m", "bolts": null, "trad": true, "ewbank": null, "description": "Short little run up the crack at the eastern nob of the delta ridge with the rock face looking out to the northern area of the cafe @ whakapapa" } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": true, "description": null, "ascent": "06/10/2012" } ], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/ni/tongariro/mt-ruapehu/whakapapa/the-amphitheatre", "name": "The Amphitheatre", "altitude": null, "access": null, "description": "The Amphitheatre is the cliff-lined cirque below and west-northwest of Ruapehu Hut. Grid ref 308139. Mostly short mixed and ice climbs, mostly used for instruction. Some rock climbing has also been done here. Grades WI2\u20133, 10\u201320m high.", "latlng": [ "-39.251431", "175.55826187" ], "routes": [], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/ni/tongariro/mt-ruapehu/whakapapa-skifield/whakapapaiti-cirque", "name": "Whakapapaiti Cirque", "altitude": "1900m", "access": "The cirque is reached after about three-quarters of an hour\u2019s walk west from the bottom of the Far West T-bar on the Whakapapa Ski\ufb01eld, at around 1900m. Grid ref 293129. Ice forms on shady southwest-facing aspects beneath broad, sunny snow\ufb01elds. The bluffs can\u2019t be seen from above \u2013 approach by sidling from below. The first routes are in a sunnier location on the left of the cirque; for the others continue on into a small lava canyon where a distinctive cave with a high, arching roof is prominent on the left side. It is possible, but by no means necessary, to camp in this cave.", "description": "This rarely-visited and little-known ice climbing location (part of which was formerly known as the Barium Enema Face) has some premier routes when well-formed. Although slightly farther to walk, it is still relatively low on the mountain. The main face was discovered by Peter K Dickson in 1987, and developed by Dickson, Alex Palman and the late Dave Gurr the following year. More routes were added in 2007 on the left side of the cirque by James Russell and Joseph Nelson: http://www.mountainz.co.nz/content/article/article.php?article=260707_bariumenema.php&direct=nz", "latlng": [ "-39.25511973", "175.54890633" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/ni/tongariro/mt-ruapehu/whakapapa-skifield/whakapapaiti-cirque/qualifier", "name": "Qualifier", "grade": "WI2", "topo_ref": "1", "image": null, "images": [], "length": "20m", "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": "WI2", "mixed": null, "length": "20m", "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "On the left side of the cirque, this is not really a technical climb, but a good warm-up. Follow the left slope up to an obvious chute. It is possible to finish directly over the top, but the left chute provides a challenge of solid ice, which can be well protected." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Joseph Nelson, James Russell, 15 July 2007" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/ni/tongariro/mt-ruapehu/whakapapa-skifield/whakapapaiti-cirque/qualified", "name": "Qualified", "grade": "WI2", "topo_ref": "2", "image": null, "images": [], "length": "12m", "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": "WI2", "mixed": null, "length": "12m", "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "Climb the obvious central line on the face on the left side of the cirque. The crux is the vertical lower third." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "James Russell, Joseph Nelson, 15 July 200" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/ni/tongariro/mt-ruapehu/whakapapa-skifield/whakapapaiti-cirque/ascending-colon", "name": "Ascending Colon", "grade": "WI3", "topo_ref": "3", "image": null, "images": [], "length": "25m", "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": "WI3", "mixed": null, "length": "25m", "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "The large, steep flow to the right of the cave." } ], "quality": 1, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Peter K Dickson, 1988" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/ni/tongariro/mt-ruapehu/whakapapa-skifield/whakapapaiti-cirque/rectum-direct", "name": "Rectum Direct", "grade": "WI4", "topo_ref": "4", "image": null, "images": [], "length": "25m", "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": "WI4", "mixed": null, "length": "25m", "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "Sustained vertical climbing with a short freestanding section at mid-height. Alex Palman took a six-metre fall on the first ascent." } ], "quality": 1, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Alex Palman, 1988" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/ni/tongariro/mt-ruapehu/whakapapa-skifield/whakapapaiti-cirque/pig-face", "name": "Pig Face", "grade": "WI3", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": "15m", "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": "WI3", "mixed": null, "length": "15m", "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "This route is on a separate flow further right." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Alex Palman, 1988" } ], "places": [], "image": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/wide/public/image/whakapapaiti_5.jpg?itok=c6973s0u", "images": [ { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/wide/public/image/whakapapaiti_5.jpg?itok=c6973s0u", "height": "308", "width": "440" }, { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/image/whakapapaiti_4.jpg?itok=FWzhY-sE", "height": "244", "width": "325" } ] } ], "image": null, "images": [] }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/ni/tongariro/mt-ruapehu/turoa-skifield", "name": "T\u016broa Skifield", "altitude": null, "access": null, "description": "On and near T\u016broa ski \ufb01eld some nice water ice can be encountered, including a couple of the most outstanding lines on the mountain. There is a good range of difficulty: the routes on the ski \ufb01eld are more straightforward and easily accessible from above and so readily top-roped. The routes outside the ski \ufb01eld boundaries are generally longer and harder.\nFor rock climbing see climbnz.org.nz/nz/ni/tongariro.", "latlng": null, "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/ni/tongariro/mt-ruapehu/t%C5%ABroa-skifield/massey-flat-waterfall", "name": "Massey Flat Waterfall", "grade": "WI4", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": "40m", "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": "WI4", "mixed": null, "length": "40m", "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "A couple of kilometres before reaching the skifield, the Massey University Alpine Club Hut sits at 1460m on Makotuku Flat. Clearly visible from here is a 40m waterfall which rarely freezes due to its north-west aspect and 1500m elevation." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Possibly first climbed by Massey club members in the mid-1970s, also Mark Sedon, Kane Henderson, July 1994" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/ni/tongariro/mt-ruapehu/t%C5%ABroa-skifield/broadbent-waterfall", "name": "Broadbent Waterfall", "grade": "WI4", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": "20m", "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": "WI4", "mixed": null, "length": "20m", "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "Perhaps the most obvious ice route on Ruapehu, as it can be clearly seen from Turoa\u2019s High Flyer chairlift. This 20\u201335m formation (depending on the depth of the snowpack) is consistently vertical and provides excellent steep water ice. It is a popular instruction venue as\r\nit is just a five minute walk from the top of the M\u00f6venpick chairlift.\r\nBe careful at the top, where good ice frequently mutates into near-vertical mush. Often, water runs inside the pillar and there can be a dangerous hole at the top; if you fell in you would end up on the inside of the ice, which would be bad.\r\nLeft and right of the main flow are two other good routes, shorter and not quite so steep." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Most likely first climbed by Massey climbers" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/ni/tongariro/mt-ruapehu/t%C5%ABroa-skifield/clay%E2%80%99s-leap", "name": "Clay\u2019s Leap", "grade": "WI2", "topo_ref": null, "image": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/route/Clays%20Leap.jpg?itok=JZjzJiOL", "images": [ { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/route/Clays%20Leap.jpg?itok=JZjzJiOL", "height": "217", "width": "325" } ], "length": "20m", "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": "WI2", "mixed": null, "length": "20m", "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "The Clay\u2019s Leap waterfall varies from nothing to 20m high, depending on the snowpack. It is in the valley about 250m west of the Giant Caf\u00e9. The best time is early season (June or July). A nice stepped route, although often the ice can be brittle." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": null }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/ni/tongariro/mt-ruapehu/t%C5%ABroa-skifield/first-finger", "name": "First Finger", "grade": "WI2", "topo_ref": null, "image": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/route/Five_Fingers.jpg?itok=QJipJZIo", "images": [ { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/route/Five_Fingers.jpg?itok=QJipJZIo", "height": "215", "width": "325" } ], "length": "15m", "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": "WI2", "mixed": null, "length": "15m", "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "Above and east of the Giant Caf\u00e9 are several short gullies: the Five Fingers. At just over 2100m, this gully has good beginner ice in early winter or during low snow years. The main fall has three routes: the right-hand line is well-featured and off-vertical; the central line is steeper with a couple of bulges; and the left line has a short vertical section. Left again a short mixed route can be done." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": null }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/ni/tongariro/mt-ruapehu/t%C5%ABroa-skifield/surprise-ridge-waterfall", "name": "Surprise Ridge Waterfall", "grade": "WI3", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": "35m", "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": "WI3", "mixed": null, "length": "35m", "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "Best climbed in low snow years, when it is at its highest and steepest, with a tricky overhang at mid height. This waterfall is at 1800m on the skyline ridge north-west from Turoa\u2019s Giant Caf\u00e9. Grid ref 290108." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Mark Sedon, Kane Henderson, 1998" } ], "places": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/ni/tongariro/mt-ruapehu/t%C5%ABroa-skifield/mangaturuturu-cirque", "name": "Mangaturuturu Cirque", "altitude": null, "access": "Walk north from the Turoa carpark, staying below the line of bluffs at around 1600m.", "description": "After a good stretch of clear cold weather in early winter, some quite amazing ice and mixed routes form on the bluffs below Turoa skifield to the west. The Mangaturuturu Cirque is a huge amphitheatre, about 80m high and 100m wide, visible from the road.", "latlng": [ "-39.29295951", "175.52637577" ], "routes": [], "places": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/ni/tongariro/mt-ruapehu/mangaturuturu-cirque/chaos-wall", "name": "Chaos Wall", "altitude": null, "access": null, "description": "tba", "latlng": null, "routes": [], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] } ], "image": null, "images": [] } ], "image": null, "images": [] }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/ni/tongariro/mt-ruapehu/tukino-skifield", "name": "T\u016bkino Skifield", "altitude": "1700m", "access": "Tukino skifield is accessed via a 4WD road from the Desert Road. There is a locked gate 4km before the road end: see Tukino Alpine Sports Club (TASC) website for contact details to get key and road conditions. As of January 2015, the access road was fine for 4WD cars and a couple of 2WD cars made it to and from the NZAC Summer Camp.\nPlease remember that you are in an alpine area, and the road can be easily blocked by snow at any time of the year. So caution is advised, and keep an eye on the forecast. It's a long way to the nearest vehicle recovery operator who has appropriately equipped vehicles.", "description": "A generally southeast aspect and the multitude of climbs at low altitude make T\u016bkino Skifield a particularly good location for ice climbing on Ruapehu.\nFor rock climbing see climbnz.org.nz/nz/ni/tongariro/t\u016bkino.", "latlng": [ "-39.27801208", "175.6140089" ], "routes": [], "places": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/ni/tongariro/mt-ruapehu/t%C5%ABkino-skifield/whangaehu-central", "name": "Whangaehu Central", "altitude": "1700m", "access": "From the lower tow shed break a traverse line directly into the gorge keeping close to the base of the bluff. Warning, steep and loose ground, particularly during summer", "description": "The gorge level with the bottom of the lower ski tow. Basically the walls with a SE aspect", "latlng": [ "-39.2809357", "175.60972608" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/ni/tongariro/mt-ruapehu/t%C5%ABkino-skifield/whangaehu-central/blue-ice", "name": "Blue Ice", "grade": "WI3", "topo_ref": null, "image": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/route/P6280712.JPG?itok=PSqkWIZu", "images": [ { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/route/P6280712.JPG?itok=PSqkWIZu", "height": "244", "width": "325" } ], "length": "50m", "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": "WI3", "mixed": null, "length": "50m", "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "Left waterfall draining the terrace above." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "unknown - Unclimbed?" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/ni/tongariro/mt-ruapehu/t%C5%ABkino-skifield/whangaehu-central/lucys-diamonds", "name": "Lucy's Diamonds", "grade": "WI2", "topo_ref": null, "image": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/route/P6280712_0.JPG?itok=2MuOEVgP", "images": [ { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/route/P6280712_0.JPG?itok=2MuOEVgP", "height": "244", "width": "325" } ], "length": "50m", "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": "WI2", "mixed": null, "length": "25m", "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "Two pitch route - right waterfall draining terrace able. Climb lower section to belay before top steeper section" }, { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": "WI3", "mixed": null, "length": "25m", "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "climb top steeper section" } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Unknown - Unclimbed ?" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/ni/tongariro/mt-ruapehu/t%C5%ABkino-skifield/whangaehu-central/acid-trip", "name": "Acid Trip", "grade": "WI4", "topo_ref": null, "image": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/route/P6280713.JPG?itok=mf8Idn5O", "images": [ { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/route/P6280713.JPG?itok=mf8Idn5O", "height": "244", "width": "325" } ], "length": "50m", "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": "WI4", "mixed": null, "length": "50m", "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "Sustained looking climb from base of gorge" } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Unknown - Unclimbed?" } ], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/ni/tongariro/mt-ruapehu/t%C5%ABkino-skifield/margarets-leap-winter", "name": "Margarets Leap (winter)", "altitude": "1850m", "access": "Best access is to ascend the ridge directly in front of the end of the road (left of the Aorangi (upper) tow shed, then traverse to the northern side of the crag. An alternative approach is up the Margaret's landing gully.", "description": "The very prominent cirque that can be seen from the car park. This crag has the most accessible ice climbing in the country in June & July. The cirque is significantly overhanging, and offers challenges for the most serious rock and ice climbers.", "latlng": [ "-39.28021709", "175.60158506" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/ni/tongariro/mt-ruapehu/t%C5%ABkino-skifield/margarets-leap-winter/curtain", "name": "The Curtain", "grade": "WI2", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": "50m", "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": "WI2", "mixed": null, "length": "50m", "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "This is a superb wide wall that consistently forms well. There are three or four obvious lines to try, and many variations on these have been climbed." } ], "quality": 1, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": null }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/ni/tongariro/mt-ruapehu/t%C5%ABkino-skifield/margarets-leap-winter/shroud", "name": "The Shroud", "grade": null, "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [], "quality": 1, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": "In cold winters two impressive and apparently unclimbed free-hanging icicles\nform down the overhanging cliff left of the Curtain. The icicle\nimmediately right of the Curtain is about 40m high. The stupendous main\nicicle is perhaps 60m high, 10m in girth and hangs free by four or five\nmetres. Further left again on a sunnier aspect is a steep drainage line that\nwould make another hard route.", "ascent": null }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/ni/tongariro/mt-ruapehu/t%C5%ABkino-skifield/margarets-leap-winter/comedy-errors", "name": "Comedy of Errors", "grade": "M5", "topo_ref": null, "image": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/routes/Comedy%20of%20Errors%20%282%29.jpg?itok=CPF2EhVV", "images": [ { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/routes/Comedy%20of%20Errors%20%282%29.jpg?itok=CPF2EhVV", "height": "325", "width": "259" } ], "length": "40m", "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": "M5", "length": "10m", "bolts": "5", "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "Start in the groove just left of the main icefall, look for the first bolt around head-height. Tricky mantle at the first ledge leads up to double ring anchor." }, { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": "M7", "length": "20m", "bolts": "8", "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "Up vertical face (M5+) to the base of the ice-choked roof crack. There is a lower-off maillon on the final bolt before the roof - wildly overhanging moves on good hooks! Double ring belay on the snowy ledge." }, { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": "M8", "length": "10m", "bolts": "4", "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "Burly moves off the ledge lead to thin climbing following the slabby crack. Fully bolted pitch but you will need to build a trad anchor well back from the lip (take a long cordalette)." } ], "quality": 3, "bolts": "8", "natural_pro": true, "description": "The first multi-pitch mixed route at Margaret's! Something for everyone, the first 1.5 pitches are relatively beginner-friendly. Note bolts are painted black to reduce visual impact.\nDescent: You can climb the first 1.5 pitches ground up and lower off a maillon before the crux (M5+ to here). If you climb through the roof you will need to second the route or down-aid and clean. 30m rap from the second anchor to ground. The third pitch can easily be accessed from the top.", "ascent": "P1-2 Edwin Sheppard 2018-2019. P3 Edwin Sheppard and Romain Albert 2021." }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/ni/tongariro/mt-ruapehu/t%C5%ABkino-skifield/margarets-leap-winter/can-i-play-madness", "name": "Can I Play With Madness", "grade": "M5", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": "40m", "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": "M5", "length": "10m", "bolts": "5", "trad": true, "ewbank": null, "description": "Place a screw in the ice at the start, climb up bolted crack then leftwards traverse to the double ring anchors." }, { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": "M6", "length": "20m", "bolts": "7", "trad": true, "ewbank": null, "description": "Straight up vertical wall above the belay, then rising traverse through steep blocky ground to join the righthand side of the large icicle (M6+). Double ring belay in the cave above." }, { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": "M7", "length": "10m", "bolts": null, "trad": true, "ewbank": null, "description": "Pure trad pitch, climbed on pre-placed gear. There is a sling and biner anchor at the top of the groove, placed 2021." } ], "quality": 2, "bolts": "7", "natural_pro": true, "description": "Up the groove left of Comedy of Errors then p2 heads up steep rock to the hanging icicle. Safety note: don't climb pitch 2 if the rock isn't well frozen together.\nGear: P1-2 couple ice screws and a rack of draws. P3: Wires, cams and a couple of pitons.\nDescent: 30m rap to ground from the top of P2.", "ascent": "P1-2 Edwin Sheppard and Prajot Sabnis 2021. P3 Edwin Sheppard and Romain Albert 2021 (on pre-placed gear)." }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/ni/tongariro/mt-ruapehu/t%C5%ABkino-skifield/margarets-leap-winter/scottishish", "name": "Scottishish", "grade": "M3", "topo_ref": null, "image": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/routes/Scottishish.jpg?itok=s72q8XF1", "images": [ { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/routes/Scottishish.jpg?itok=s72q8XF1", "height": "325", "width": "325" } ], "length": "25m", "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": "M3", "length": "25m", "bolts": null, "trad": true, "ewbank": null, "description": "Trad mixed climbing up the buttress right of the shroud. Build a trad anchor below the final headwall then escape to the gully on the right. \r\nGear: Wires, small-med cams, couple of pitons." } ], "quality": 1, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": true, "description": null, "ascent": "Edwin Sheppard and Shaun Brown 2021" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/ni/tongariro/mt-ruapehu/t%C5%ABkino-skifield/margarets-leap-winter/squealing-frenchman", "name": "Squealing Frenchman", "grade": "M8", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": "30m", "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": "M8", "length": "30m", "bolts": "8", "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": null } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": "8", "natural_pro": false, "description": "Hard start past a bolt, take some trad, them into the steep face through some icicles.", "ascent": "Jono Clarke" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/ni/tongariro/mt-ruapehu/t%C5%ABkino-skifield/margarets-leap-winter/freak-leash", "name": "Freak on a leash", "grade": "M10", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": "30m", "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": "M10", "length": "30m", "bolts": "13", "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "Steep powerfull climbing Following the obvious line of weakness that cuts right at the top of the roof." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": "13", "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "FFA, Jacob kuchler July 2023" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/ni/tongariro/mt-ruapehu/tc5abkino-skifield/margarets-leap-winter/mixed-metaphor", "name": "Mixed Metaphor", "grade": "M9", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": "30m", "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": "M9", "length": "30m", "bolts": "15", "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": null } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": "15", "natural_pro": false, "description": "Pumpy technical climbing leads you left out of the roof.", "ascent": "FFA, Jono Clarke, June 2022" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/ni/tongariro/mt-ruapehu/tc5abkino-skifield/margarets-leap-winter/woke-sushi", "name": "Woke Sushi", "grade": "M3", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": "0m", "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": "M3", "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "Head up the small conglomerate layer to the ledge, then head up on good hooks to the anchor." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": "0", "natural_pro": false, "description": "Goes up the end of the buttress on the small rigde on the far left side of Margarets. Top is accessible to set up a top route.", "ascent": "Jono Clarke" } ], "places": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/ni/tongariro/mt-ruapehu/tc5abkino-skifield/margarets-leap-winter/margarets-mound", "name": "Margaret's Mound", "altitude": null, "access": "Situated opposite Margarets Leap face. Best access is to ascend the ridge directly in front of the end of the road (left of the Aorangi (upper) tow shed, then traverse to the northern side of the crag. An alternative approach is up the Margaret's landing gully.", "description": "A small rock opposite Margarets Leap. Anchor bolts were installed 2023 by Jono Clarke to provide some easier introductory mixed routes. All routes were first climbed on top-rope by Wellington members of NZAC. Splinter and Shredder were climbed on gear in June 2024. Donatello and Leonardo were top roped using a T-slot snow stake as an anchor. Anchors for each route and bolts are to be installed in the future. All route can be accessed to put up top rope or cleaned from the back. Scope for a few more routes to go up if the rock is good enough.\nThe four guys who first climbed here were all sporting Osprey Mutants. The climbs are inspired by Teenage Mutant Ninja Turtles with the first route climbed named Splinter after Jono.", "latlng": [ "-39.280679", "175.602071" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/ni/tongariro/mt-ruapehu/tc5abkino-skifield/margarets-leap-winter/margerets-mound/shredder", "name": "Shredder", "grade": "M4", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": "7m", "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": "M4", "length": "7m", "bolts": null, "trad": true, "ewbank": null, "description": null } ], "quality": 1, "bolts": "0", "natural_pro": true, "description": "Small traverse to get onto ledge. Climb up the crack and face. Pick placements are good once you find them. If doing on gear take small cams. Double hanger anchor.", "ascent": "FFA - Howard Storey, June 2024" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/ni/tongariro/mt-ruapehu/tc5abkino-skifield/margarets-leap-winter/margerets-mound/splinter", "name": "Splinter", "grade": "M3", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": "6m", "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": "M3", "length": "6m", "bolts": null, "trad": true, "ewbank": null, "description": null } ], "quality": 1, "bolts": "0", "natural_pro": true, "description": "Good introduction to mixed/dry tooling. Limited gear placements. Set up anchor on Shredder.", "ascent": "FFA - Howard Storey, June 2024" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/ni/tongariro/mt-ruapehu/tc5abkino-skifield/margarets-leap-winter/margerets-mound/leonardo", "name": "Leonardo", "grade": "M3", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": "5m", "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": "M3", "length": "5m", "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": null } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": "0", "natural_pro": false, "description": "Up the right side of the small face. More of a mixed boulder route. Set up top rope or anchor with snow stake until bolts are installed.", "ascent": "James Jonhston, J\u00fcrgen \u00d6sterle, Sam Brown, Howard Storey, July 2023" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/ni/tongariro/mt-ruapehu/tc5abkino-skifield/margarets-leap-winter/margerets-mound/donatello", "name": "Donatello", "grade": "M3", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": "5m", "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": "M3", "length": "5m", "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": null } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": "0", "natural_pro": false, "description": "Up the left side of the small face. More of a mixed boulder route. Set up top rope or anchor with snow stake until bolts are installed.", "ascent": "James Jonhston, J\u00fcrgen \u00d6sterle, Sam Brown, Howard Storey, July 2023" } ], "places": [], "image": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/wide/public/2024-06/Margerat%27s%20Mound%20Topo.jpg?itok=qDM07DXG", "images": [ { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/wide/public/2024-06/Margerat%27s%20Mound%20Topo.jpg?itok=qDM07DXG", "height": "613", "width": "1090" } ] } ], "image": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/wide/public/image/Margaret%27s%20Leap%20topo.png?itok=As9CIIQZ", "images": [ { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/wide/public/image/Margaret%27s%20Leap%20topo.png?itok=As9CIIQZ", "height": "1636", "width": "1090" }, { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/image/margaretleap-route3-sm.jpg?itok=5ghhpc6F", "height": "325", "width": "153" }, { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/image/PB200033.JPG?itok=PLhhoBcz", "height": "244", "width": "325" }, { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/image/PB200010.JPG?itok=vPIzPaGw", "height": "244", "width": "325" }, { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/image/42%2B43.JPG?itok=Rkk1p1F8", "height": "325", "width": "194" }, { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/image/20230715_182612.jpg?itok=abrwh4mX", "height": "244", "width": "325" } ] }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/ni/tongariro/mt-ruapehu/t%C5%ABkino-skifield/southern-bluffs", "name": "Southern Bluffs", "altitude": "1800m", "access": null, "description": "These cliffs, unsurprisingly, are to the south of the car park, towards the Whangaehu valley.", "latlng": null, "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/ni/tongariro/mt-ruapehu/t%C5%ABkino-skifield/southern-bluffs/chandelier", "name": "Chandelier", "grade": "WI3", "topo_ref": null, "image": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/route/Chandelier%20-%20Late%20June%202015.PNG?itok=R_nRcOFN", "images": [ { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/route/Chandelier%20-%20Late%20June%202015.PNG?itok=R_nRcOFN", "height": "312", "width": "325" }, { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/route/Chandelier%20-%20Early%20July%202015_0.JPG?itok=uvEjfzv4", "height": "325", "width": "276" } ], "length": "25m", "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": "WI3", "mixed": null, "length": "25m", "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "Forms fairly regularly, although the ice can be marginal and \u2013 as the names suggests \u2013 chandeliered. Several options exist. It has a short life so get in early if it is formed." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": null }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/ni/tongariro/mt-ruapehu/t%C5%ABkino-skifield/southern-bluffs/spoiled-bedsheets", "name": "Spoiled Bedsheets", "grade": "WI2,M2", "topo_ref": null, "image": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/route/shit%20stain.png?itok=x-872rAH", "images": [ { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/route/shit%20stain.png?itok=x-872rAH", "height": "183", "width": "325" } ], "length": "30m", "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": "WI2", "mixed": "M2", "length": "30m", "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "Wide gulley right of Chandalier.\r\nUp series of rock and ice steps. \r\n\r\nEarly season route before it banks out" } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Lincoln Quilliam, Matt Wilkinson, Adam Power, 05/07/15" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/ni/tongariro/mt-ruapehu/t%C5%ABkino-skifield/southern-bluffs/central-buttress", "name": "Central Buttress", "grade": "M3", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": "60m", "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": "M3", "length": "60m", "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "A good mixed winter route. Two pitches on sound rock, grade 8\u201310." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Don French, July, early 1990s" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/ni/tongariro/mt-ruapehu/t%C5%ABkino-skifield/southern-bluffs/southern", "name": "Southern", "grade": "WI2", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": "20m", "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": "WI2", "mixed": null, "length": "20m", "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "Straightforward with a steep finish, but quite honestly not that flash." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": null }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/ni/tongariro/mt-ruapehu/t%C5%ABkino-skifield/southern-bluffs/pilier-fran%C3%A7ais", "name": "Pilier Fran\u00e7ais", "grade": "M3", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": "60m", "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": "M3", "length": "60m", "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "Another good two-pitch mixed line, if anything better than Central Buttress." } ], "quality": 1, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Don French, July, early 1990s" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/ni/tongariro/mt-ruapehu/t%C5%ABkino-skifield/southern-bluffs/barneys-boots", "name": "Barney's Boots", "grade": "M4", "topo_ref": null, "image": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/route/shit%20stain_0.png?itok=HXciHfEV", "images": [ { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/route/shit%20stain_0.png?itok=HXciHfEV", "height": "183", "width": "325" } ], "length": "35m", "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": "M4", "length": "35m", "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "Mixed route straight up face a few meters right of 'Camp 2015' overhang.\r\n\r\nI think more like M3+" } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Adam Power, Matt Wilkinson 05/07/15" } ], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/ni/tongariro/mt-ruapehu/t%C5%ABkino-skifield/dimrill-stairs", "name": "Dimrill Stairs", "altitude": "1750m", "access": "From TASC Lodge, scramble up to ski field upper tow shed building and sidle to the waterfall.", "description": "Above the large prominent waterfall near the upper ski tow. For rock routes see climbnz.org.nz/nz/ni/tongariro/t\u016bkino-crags/dimrill-stairs.", "latlng": [ "-39.27646089", "175.60840081" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/ni/tongariro/mt-ruapehu/t%C5%ABkino-skifield/dimrill-stairs/icy-stairs-left", "name": "Icy Stairs - Left", "grade": "WI2", "topo_ref": null, "image": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/route/Dimrill%20Stairs%20-%20Late%20June%202015.JPG?itok=eD0Nnhmf", "images": [ { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/route/Dimrill%20Stairs%20-%20Late%20June%202015.JPG?itok=eD0Nnhmf", "height": "325", "width": "242" } ], "length": "40m", "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": "WI2", "mixed": null, "length": "40m", "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "Climb the ice to the left of the stream. Steep finish on free standing icicle. Best tackled early in season before snow accumulates" } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "has been climbed - unknown" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/ni/tongariro/mt-ruapehu/t%C5%ABkino-skifield/dimrill-stairs/icy-stairs-right", "name": "Icy Stairs - Right", "grade": "WI2", "topo_ref": null, "image": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/route/Dimrill%20Stairs%20-%20Late%20June%202015_0.JPG?itok=Sa5h0vKY", "images": [ { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/route/Dimrill%20Stairs%20-%20Late%20June%202015_0.JPG?itok=Sa5h0vKY", "height": "325", "width": "242" } ], "length": "40m", "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": "WI2", "mixed": null, "length": "40m", "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "Right side of waterfall. Best climbed early in season before snow accumulates. Takes steep corner on top section of falls." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Has been climbed - unknown" } ], "places": [], "image": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/wide/public/image/P4230436.JPG?itok=ZALNeNO6", "images": [ { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/wide/public/image/P4230436.JPG?itok=ZALNeNO6", "height": "900", "width": "675" } ] }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/ni/tongariro/mt-ruapehu/t%C5%ABkino-skifield/shirt-front", "name": "Shirt Front", "altitude": "1800m", "access": null, "description": "A series of crags with a southeast aspect above and to the north of the Aorangi ski tow.", "latlng": null, "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/ni/tongariro/mt-ruapehu/t%C5%ABkino-skifield/shirt-front/icy-shirt-front", "name": "Icy Shirt Front", "grade": "WI2", "topo_ref": null, "image": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/route/Shirt%20Front%20Ice%20-%20Late%20June%202015.JPG?itok=l5ie2qDf", "images": [ { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/route/Shirt%20Front%20Ice%20-%20Late%20June%202015.JPG?itok=l5ie2qDf", "height": "325", "width": "323" } ], "length": "30m", "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": "WI2", "mixed": null, "length": "30m", "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "An iced area that forms regularly." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "First ascent unknown" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/ni/tongariro/mt-ruapehu/t%C5%ABkino-skifield/shirt-front/caitlyns-quim", "name": "Caitlyns Quim", "grade": "WI2,M3", "topo_ref": null, "image": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/route/Caitlyn%27s%20Quim.jpg?itok=D4kzkpn0", "images": [ { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/route/Caitlyn%27s%20Quim.jpg?itok=D4kzkpn0", "height": "325", "width": "323" } ], "length": "30m", "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": "WI2", "mixed": "M3", "length": "30m", "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "A rising traverse left to right, finishing up rock and mixed terrain. A similiar line possibly climbed previously." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Adam Power, Matt Wilkinson, 4 July 2015" } ], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/ni/tongariro/mt-ruapehu/t%C5%ABkino-skifield/northern-bluffs", "name": "Northern Bluffs", "altitude": "1700m", "access": "Best approach is to descend to just under the prominate waterfall, then climb out to base of the cliffs.", "description": "These are the cliffs across the valley from the car park. The obvious ice lines have been climbed, but there is potential for some very difficult climbs to be completed. The first three routes are on the shorter left-hand section of the bluffs. Much potentual for good rock climbs, but some of the lava layers are shattered", "latlng": null, "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/ni/tongariro/mt-ruapehu/t%C5%ABkino-skifield/northern-bluffs/west-south-buttress", "name": "West of South Buttress", "grade": "M3", "topo_ref": null, "image": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/route/P7290392.JPG?itok=sfWhkmbl", "images": [ { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/route/P7290392.JPG?itok=sfWhkmbl", "height": "244", "width": "325" } ], "length": "40m", "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": "M3", "length": "40m", "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "Face about 20ms left of the southern buttress. Ascend up through steep face. Some loose rock which can get frozen into place" } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Ollie Touhy, Callen Kennedy 29/7/2007" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/ni/tongariro/mt-ruapehu/t%C5%ABkino-skifield/northern-bluffs/point-eight", "name": "Point Eight", "grade": "M4", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": "80m", "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": "M4", "length": "45m", "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "Start just to the south of the toe of the buttress left and below of Gully One. Up Left facing corner onto lead that basically goes straight up tending slightly to the left. A number of steps befor angle eases. Belay" }, { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": "M2", "length": "35m", "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "Continue to trend up and leftward on snow fields at first with a couple of steps which provide some interest." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Don French" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/ni/tongariro/mt-ruapehu/t%C5%ABkino-skifield/northern-bluffs/point-nine", "name": "Point Nine", "grade": "M2", "topo_ref": null, "image": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/route/P7150340.JPG?itok=NuJ-EcwI", "images": [ { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/route/P7150340.JPG?itok=NuJ-EcwI", "height": "244", "width": "325" } ], "length": "60m", "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": "M2", "length": "30m", "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "Buttress left of Gully One. Climb buttress trending left. Fund mixed route. Climb snow fan to left of Gully One, with difficult step onto mixed ground" }, { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": "M2", "length": "30m", "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "Climb through snow fields varying left with steep step to finish on upper snow fields." } ], "quality": 1, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Oli Touhy, Callen Kennedy 15/7/2007" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/ni/tongariro/mt-ruapehu/t%C5%ABkino-skifield/northern-bluffs/gully-one", "name": "Gully One", "grade": "WI1", "topo_ref": null, "image": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/route/Number%20One.JPG?itok=XLIXgq5S", "images": [ { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/route/Number%20One.JPG?itok=XLIXgq5S", "height": "325", "width": "246" }, { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/route/Gully%20One%20July%202005.JPG?itok=DlYxJbdb", "height": "231", "width": "325" } ], "length": "20m", "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": "WI1", "mixed": null, "length": "20m", "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "left corner of wide basin half way along Northern Bluffs. Short" } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "unknown" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/ni/tongariro/mt-ruapehu/t%C5%ABkino-skifield/northern-bluffs/gully-two", "name": "Gully Two", "grade": "WI2", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": "20m", "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": "WI2", "mixed": null, "length": "20m", "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "Another line just to the right." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": null }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/ni/tongariro/mt-ruapehu/t%C5%ABkino-skifield/northern-bluffs/gully-three", "name": "Gully Three", "grade": "WI2", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": "20m", "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": "WI2", "mixed": null, "length": "20m", "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "Climb the right end of the wall, before the cliff line lengthens again." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": null }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/ni/tongariro/mt-ruapehu/t%C5%ABkino-skifield/northern-bluffs/irish-ice-express", "name": "Irish Ice Express", "grade": "WI2", "topo_ref": null, "image": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/route/Irish%20Ice%20Express.JPG?itok=9jf6CHc2", "images": [ { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/route/Irish%20Ice%20Express.JPG?itok=9jf6CHc2", "height": "325", "width": "285" }, { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/route/AIC2005-1%20022.jpg?itok=iM1PXEA8", "height": "325", "width": "244" } ], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": "WI2", "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "Fairly straight forward climb near the northern end of the Northern Bluffs. Short steep section before easing off into bowl above." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": null }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/ni/tongariro/mt-ruapehu/t%C5%ABkino-skifield/northern-bluffs/bowel-wobbler", "name": "Bowel Wobbler", "grade": "WI4", "topo_ref": null, "image": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/route/Bowelwobbler.JPG?itok=MjUhvVJS", "images": [ { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/route/Bowelwobbler.JPG?itok=MjUhvVJS", "height": "325", "width": "288" }, { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/route/P7300066.JPG?itok=NAHobHDN", "height": "244", "width": "325" } ], "length": "50m", "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": "WI4", "mixed": null, "length": "50m", "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "More committing. A steep first pitch up to easier ground. A second pitch up a steep (vertical) ice lead eases off onto a slab, and right to easy ground." } ], "quality": 1, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": null }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/ni/tongariro/mt-ruapehu/t%C5%ABkino-skifield/northern-bluffs/unclimbed-ice-project", "name": "Unclimbed Ice Project", "grade": "WI6", "topo_ref": null, "image": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/route/Unclimbed%20Norther%20Blugffs%20Route.JPG?itok=o_iT94St", "images": [ { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/route/Unclimbed%20Norther%20Blugffs%20Route.JPG?itok=o_iT94St", "height": "325", "width": "183" } ], "length": "50m", "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": "WI6", "mixed": null, "length": "50m", "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "This forms very briefly went he sun is at a low angle. A superb challenge on very steep ground. Grade a guess" } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "beleive to be unclimbed" } ], "places": [], "image": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/wide/public/image/Norther%20Bluffs%20Stitch.jpg?itok=ZuLCIpjF", "images": [ { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/wide/public/image/Norther%20Bluffs%20Stitch.jpg?itok=ZuLCIpjF", "height": "209", "width": "900" } ] }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/ni/tongariro/mt-ruapehu/t%C5%ABkino-skifield/whangaehu-bluff", "name": "Whangaehu Bluff", "altitude": null, "access": null, "description": null, "latlng": null, "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/ni/tongariro/mt-ruapehu/t%C5%ABkino-skifield/whangaehu-bluff/last-great-exodus-decade", "name": "The last great Exodus of the decade", "grade": "19", "topo_ref": "Hut Bluff", "image": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/routes/Whangaehu%20Valley%20Hut%20Bluff%20The%20last%20great%20exodus%20of%20the%20decade_0.jpg?itok=ZooRsKVK", "images": [ { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/routes/Whangaehu%20Valley%20Hut%20Bluff%20The%20last%20great%20exodus%20of%20the%20decade_0.jpg?itok=ZooRsKVK", "height": "217", "width": "325" }, { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/routes/The%20Great%20last%20exodus%20of%20the%20decade%202_0.jpg?itok=9n4mOhIQ", "height": "244", "width": "325" }, { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/routes/The%20Great%20last%20exodus%20of%20the%20decade%203_0.jpg?itok=s4f-62Y0", "height": "244", "width": "325" }, { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/routes/Hut%20runner_0.jpg?itok=hieyHJj9", "height": "244", "width": "325" } ], "length": "65m", "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": "35m", "bolts": "2", "trad": false, "ewbank": "19", "description": "Pitch-1 19, 2 bolts, small and mid size gear, From the base move right towards a obvious off width chimney, start just before move up tend rightwards towards chimney passed a horizontal break then up to gain ledge then traverse left for roughly 10m towards a arete, move around to a stance then move upwards following a crack system to belay ledge.\r\n2 bolts just before belay," }, { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": "30m", "bolts": "3", "trad": false, "ewbank": "17", "description": "Pitch-2 17 30m has 3 bolts to start with from belay follow up the weakness past 3 bolts nice climbing then onward to the top easier as you go up.\r\nfrom top belay scramble out on the first assent hut was used as runner and belay" } ], "quality": 1, "bolts": "3", "natural_pro": false, "description": "Long time coming to completion first started in 2010 when hut re cladding project started but taken a while to clean loose and bolt but then trying to fine someone to be brave enough to walk in and climb it!\nThis is a 2 pitch climb of 60m bolted belays and has 5 bolts on it wires small mid cams size gear and is the first highest multi pitch rock route in the north island.\nIt starts out the back of the hut from the fixed hut guide wire on the up hill side climb down to a set of rap bolts safer to use a fixed line off hut anchor wire you can reach the bottom just with 2 60m ropes or it is two rappels with a single 60m via a bolt belay at the end of 1st pitch.\nAlternatively you can either scramble down round from the east side then go round the buttress which is the Bog route!\nthe first bit a little sketchy for gear but goes there could be a more direct start but ran out of bolts at the time needs a bolt unless you brave!", "ascent": "FFA Richard Knott, Grant Piper 31/12/2019" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/ni/tongariro/mt-ruapehu/t%C5%ABkino-skifield/whangaehu-bluff/bog-route", "name": "Bog Route", "grade": "WI2", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": "WI2", "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": null } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": "Sneaks around the Whangaehu Bluff below and just east of the hut. The toilet once formed the top belay, but is no longer so useful since it was moved.", "ascent": null } ], "places": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/ni/tongariro/mt-ruapehu/whangaehu-valley/hut-bluff", "name": "Hut Bluff", "altitude": "2000m", "access": null, "description": "The steep rock bluff that the hut sits on has been top-roped, and possibly led, although details are sketchy.", "latlng": [ "-39.28262951", "175.58873177" ], "routes": [], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] } ], "image": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/wide/public/image/Whangaehu%20Valley.jpg?itok=RZOaT63r", "images": [ { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/wide/public/image/Whangaehu%20Valley.jpg?itok=RZOaT63r", "height": "600", "width": "900" } ] }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/ni/tongariro/mt-ruapehu/t%C5%ABkino-skifield/student-bluff", "name": "Student Bluff", "altitude": "2040m", "access": null, "description": "This line of small bluffs is about 500m east of and level with Whangaehu Hut. The routes were originally developed by Ray Button, with others, and used for instruction by OPC.", "latlng": [ "-39.28213125", "175.59109211" ], "routes": [], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/ni/tongariro/mt-ruapehu/t%C5%ABkino-skifield/lower-bluffs", "name": "Lower Bluffs", "altitude": null, "access": null, "description": "The gorge below Whangaehu Hut has climbing potential on both sides, but only two routes are known to have been climbed.", "latlng": [ "-39.28515403", "175.59207916" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/ni/tongariro/mt-ruapehu/t%C5%ABkino-skifield/lower-bluffs/glenn%E2%80%99s-line", "name": "Glenn\u2019s Line", "grade": "WI2", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": "WI2", "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "Drop straight down (east) from the Student Bluffs (not by the poled route) into the narrow gorge. This line is on the true left at a sharp bend. Thin ice smears over rock, but not too steep. There may be potential for more routes in this area. Grid ref 343102." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Dzung Nguyen, Glenn Pennycook, 1990s" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/ni/tongariro/mt-ruapehu/t%C5%ABkino-skifield/lower-bluffs/beisley-grierson-line", "name": "Beisley / Grierson Line", "grade": "WI3", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": "WI3", "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "This route is deep in the Whangaehu valley, across the gorge from the hut on bluffs at the base of Ringatoto. The top of the route is visible from the hut. Two pitches of steep ice." }, { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": "WI3", "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": null } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Hugh Grierson, Greg Beisley, July 1994" } ], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/ni/tongariro/mt-ruapehu/t%C5%ABkino-skifield/buttons-buttress", "name": "Buttons Buttress", "altitude": "2450m", "access": null, "description": "This is the large bluff on the left edge of the Mangatoetoenui Glacier, about 150m below the Summit Plateau. Ray Button climbed three routes in 1983 with pupils on an advanced ice-climbing course: two on the front face of the buttress, and another slightly further up the gully on the south side.", "latlng": [ "-39.27309534", "175.57924747" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/ni/tongariro/mt-ruapehu/t%C5%ABkino-skifield/buttons-buttress/beetroot-boys", "name": "Beetroot Boys", "grade": "WI2", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": "25m", "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": "WI2", "mixed": null, "length": "25m", "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "A line slightly further up the gully on the south side of the buttress." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": null }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/ni/tongariro/mt-ruapehu/t%C5%ABkino-skifield/buttons-buttress/wall-silence", "name": "Wall of Silence", "grade": "WI3", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": "30m", "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": "WI3", "mixed": null, "length": "30m", "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "The left-hand line on the front of the buttress." } ], "quality": 1, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": null }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/ni/tongariro/mt-ruapehu/t%C5%ABkino-skifield/buttons-buttress/radiant-energy", "name": "Radiant Energy", "grade": "WI2", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": "30m", "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": "WI2", "mixed": null, "length": "30m", "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "On the right side of the buttress." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": null }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/ni/tongariro/mt-ruapehu/t%C5%ABkino-skifield/buttons-buttress/bootsplosion", "name": "Bootsplosion", "grade": "WI4", "topo_ref": null, "image": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/routes/Button_s%20Buttress%2004-07-2020%20Romain%20on%20Bootsplosion%20WI4.jpg?itok=TRl1mZvj", "images": [ { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/routes/Button_s%20Buttress%2004-07-2020%20Romain%20on%20Bootsplosion%20WI4.jpg?itok=TRl1mZvj", "height": "325", "width": "325" }, { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/routes/Button_s%20Buttress%2004-07-2020%20Romain%20on%20Bootsplosion%20%282%29.jpg?itok=oZoHv9Yt", "height": "217", "width": "325" }, { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/routes/Button_s%20Buttress%2004-07-2020%20The%20Bootsplosion.jpg?itok=APKwJHCl", "height": "325", "width": "325" } ], "length": "30m", "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": "WI4", "mixed": null, "length": "30m", "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "A thin, wandering ice line starting at the bottom-right of the main face (right-hand line on the topo)." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Romain Albert and Edwin Sheppard 2020." } ], "places": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/ni/tongariro/mt-ruapehu/t%C5%ABkino-skifield/buttons-buttress/button-buttress", "name": "Button Buttress", "altitude": null, "access": null, "description": "Nth. of Clock Tower", "latlng": null, "routes": [], "places": [], "image": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/wide/public/image/Button%20Crag%20Ruapehu%20a.png?itok=szu26YXo", "images": [ { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/wide/public/image/Button%20Crag%20Ruapehu%20a.png?itok=szu26YXo", "height": "326", "width": "592" } ] } ], "image": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/wide/public/image/Buttons%20Buttress%20topo%202020.jpg?itok=lLw2hODl", "images": [ { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/wide/public/image/Buttons%20Buttress%20topo%202020.jpg?itok=lLw2hODl", "height": "727", "width": "1090" } ] } ], "image": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/wide/public/image/Locations%20Dec%202015%201.JPG?itok=iBRbonoQ", "images": [ { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/wide/public/image/Locations%20Dec%202015%201.JPG?itok=iBRbonoQ", "height": "541", "width": "900" }, { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/image/Locations%20Dec%202015%202.JPG?itok=t-wYIK2Z", "height": "208", "width": "325" }, { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/image/Locations%20Dec%202015%203.JPG?itok=HkQiXXB6", "height": "287", "width": "325" } ] }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/ni/tongariro/mt-ruapehu/nga-tohu-pinnacle-ridge", "name": "Nga Tohu Pinnacle Ridge", "altitude": null, "access": null, "description": "Arriving at the Top o\u2019 the Bruce, all climbers\u2019 eyes will immediately be drawn to the sharp outlines of Pinnacle Ridge, marching down the mountain along the eastern edge of Whakapapa ski\ufb01eld. There are three main pinnacles: from north to south they are Great Pinnacle, Second Pinnacle and First Pinnacle. Some of the best climbs on the mountain are right here.\nAccessibility, though, does not mean the Pinnacles do not need to be taken seriously. The peaks are over 2000 metres high and exposed to ferocious weather; the gullies can harbour extreme avalanche risks, especially after winter storms.\nGeologically the oldest part of the mountain, this spectacularly sharp ridge belies the reality of Ruapehu\u2019s volcanic origins. The ridge has long been a favoured destination for alpine climbers visiting Ruapehu, Much of the terrain is best described as mixed. The rock is generally sound \u2013 certainly better than it appears at \ufb01rst glance \u2013 although protection can be hard to \ufb01nd. A selection of slings will be useful. There are a number of ice routes on the Pinnacles, although being at a relatively low altitude they do not come into condition every year.", "latlng": [ "-39.25186302", "175.57105064" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/ni/tongariro/mt-ruapehu/nga-tohu-pinnacle-ridge/pinnacle-ridge-traverse", "name": "Pinnacle Ridge Traverse", "grade": "2,I", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": "2", "commitment": "I", "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": null } ], "quality": 1, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": "The complete traverse of the Pinnacle Ridge is one of the best alpine\nadventures in the North Island. Here is what Geoff Sweet and John Edwards had\nto say, after making the traverse in February 1954:\n\u201cThe climb is varied and technically interesting over most parts, but by no\nmeans as difficult as many people make out.\nRock is sound over practically the entire traverse and there are any number\nof sound and adequate belays.\nProbably the most satisfying traverse is from north to south, as this\ninvolves the descent of the south face of the lowermost pinnacle \u2014 possibly\nthe crux of the climb.\nIt is possible to keep on the crest the entire way.\u201d\nAlthough nowhere extremely difficult, the traverse is a reasonably long,\nexposed and continuous undertaking. Allow a full day. Nowadays the favoured\nprocedure is to start at the top and move down. Climbing the Great Pinnacle\ndirect from the Grand Gully col is not nearly as grim as it looks, but the\nTraverse of the Gods is an easier alternative. Obviously, climbing the ridge\nin reverse is also possible. Parts of the traverse can be completed; it is\nstraightforward to access or descend from the ridge via Grand Gully or Gully\n2. Although it is a classic route at any time of year, the traverse is best\nmade in winter as a mixed route.", "ascent": "Horace Holl, Frederick Worley, 1925; Margaret Fyfe, Graham McCallum, July 1949 (first winter traverse)" } ], "places": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/ni/tongariro/mt-ruapehu/nga-tohu-pinnacle-ridge/great-pinnacle", "name": "Great Pinnacle", "altitude": "2190m", "access": null, "description": "The most impressive of the pinnacles when viewed from low on the ski area, the Great Pinnacle also holds the classic routes on the ridge, such as Chiming Bells and Grand Gully.", "latlng": [ "-39.24927085", "175.56937695" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/ni/tongariro/mt-ruapehu/nga-tohu-pinnacle-ridge/great-pinnacle/north-ridge", "name": "North Ridge", "grade": "1,I", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": "1", "commitment": "I", "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": null } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": "From Hut Flat, traverse out to the northeast below the big bluffs on the\nNorth West Face, to where straightforward climbing can position you on the\nridge. A pleasant scramble follows along the rocky crest to the summit. Most\nenjoyable.", "ascent": null }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/ni/tongariro/mt-ruapehu/nga-tohu-pinnacle-ridge/great-pinnacle/north-west-face", "name": "North West Face", "grade": "1,I", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": "1", "commitment": "I", "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": null } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": "This face has seen much activity. Beginning from Hut Flat it\u2019s possible to\ndo a reasonably straightforward ascent that avoids any major difficulties.\nStart up the middle of the face, heading up to the narrow left-tending gully\nthat leads through the main section of bluffs. Above the bluffs, head back\nright, up the snow\ufb01eld and the summit blocks.", "ascent": null }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/ni/tongariro/mt-ruapehu/nga-tohu-pinnacle-ridge/great-pinnacle/peanut-slab", "name": "Peanut Slab", "grade": "2,I", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": "40m", "pitches": [ { "alpine": "2", "commitment": "I", "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": "40m", "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "A nice mixed pitch up a slab, to the left of where the usual North West Face route climbs the gully through the main bluffs. Other mixed routes also exist on spurs below that gully." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Mike Peat, Matt Quirke, June 1990" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/ni/tongariro/mt-ruapehu/nga-tohu-pinnacle-ridge/great-pinnacle/dribble", "name": "Dribble", "grade": "WI2", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": "30m", "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": "WI2", "mixed": null, "length": "30m", "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "Short but quite steep in places, this tackles ice smears up the right side of the Northwest Face gully." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Mark Schafer, Mike Peat, Gwilym Griffith-Jones, May 1990" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/ni/tongariro/mt-ruapehu/nga-tohu-pinnacle-ridge/great-pinnacle/smells-white-spirit", "name": "Smells Like White Spirit", "grade": "WI3", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": "40m", "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": "WI3", "mixed": null, "length": "40m", "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "The deep gully about 30m left of Chiming Bells. Climb steepening ground up the gully before tackling the ice curtain directly. The curtain rarely forms." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Tom Wilson and Steve Dowall climbed this line in August 2008" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/ni/tongariro/mt-ruapehu/nga-tohu-pinnacle-ridge/great-pinnacle/chiming-bells", "name": "Chiming Bells", "grade": "WI2", "topo_ref": "5", "image": null, "images": [], "length": "150m", "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": "WI2", "mixed": null, "length": "50m", "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "The obvious gully in the centre of the face." }, { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": "WI2", "mixed": null, "length": "50m", "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "Move right up a lower-angled ramp." }, { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": "WI2", "mixed": null, "length": "50m", "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "Climb ice smears at the head of the ramp to the upper snowfield." } ], "quality": 1, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": "Perhaps the classic ice route on Ruapehu, this climb tackles ice runnels up\nthe western face of the Great Pinnacle. Various options exist on each of the\ntwo waterfall pitches.", "ascent": "Graeme Dingle, Roie Wardell, 1975" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/ni/tongariro/mt-ruapehu/nga-tohu-pinnacle-ridge/great-pinnacle/chiming-bells-direct", "name": "Chiming Bells Direct", "grade": "WI3", "topo_ref": "6", "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": "WI3", "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": null } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": "A steeper line, less often in good condition, starting about 10m right of the\nOriginal Line and continuing direct up steep ice, rather than moving right.", "ascent": "Graeme Dingle, Doug Wilson, 1980" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/ni/tongariro/mt-ruapehu/nga-tohu-pinnacle-ridge/great-pinnacle/chiming-bells-left-variant", "name": "Chiming Bells Left Variant", "grade": "WI2", "topo_ref": "7", "image": null, "images": [], "length": "150m", "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": "WI2", "mixed": null, "length": "50m", "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "Begin up the Direct route, and climb up to the left end of the snow ramp." }, { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": "WI3", "mixed": null, "length": "50m", "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "Traverse left a few metres and then up a vague rib (about 25 metres). Only really climbable in good ice years." }, { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": "WI2", "mixed": null, "length": "50m", "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "A final pitch to the snowfield keeps well left (north) of the Direct Variant." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Craig Miller, Martin Wright, 1994" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/ni/tongariro/mt-ruapehu/nga-tohu-pinnacle-ridge/great-pinnacle/banana-split", "name": "Banana Split", "grade": "2,I", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": "2", "commitment": "I", "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": null } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": "From the bottom of Grand Gully climb the couloir that tops out below the\nfirst pitches of Chiming Bells. Best climbed as an alternative start to that\nroute.", "ascent": "Mike Peat, Kristen Foley" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/ni/tongariro/mt-ruapehu/nga-tohu-pinnacle-ridge/great-pinnacle/gorilla", "name": "Gorilla", "grade": "2,I", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": "30m", "pitches": [ { "alpine": "2", "commitment": "I", "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": "30m", "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "The main drainage line tucked away on Grand Gully\u2019s left (northern) side, with two steep sections." } ], "quality": 1, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Graeme Dingle, winter 1970" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/ni/tongariro/mt-ruapehu/nga-tohu-pinnacle-ridge/great-pinnacle/neanderthal", "name": "Neanderthal", "grade": "2,I", "topo_ref": "10", "image": null, "images": [], "length": "30m", "pitches": [ { "alpine": "2", "commitment": "I", "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": "30m", "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "Stay hard against the left wall of Grand Gully, up to the start of Gorilla." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Graeme Dingle, early 1970s" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/ni/tongariro/mt-ruapehu/nga-tohu-pinnacle-ridge/great-pinnacle/grand-gully", "name": "Grand Gully", "grade": "2,I", "topo_ref": "11", "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": "2", "commitment": "I", "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": null } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": "The major feature when viewed from Whakapapa ski\ufb01eld, running directly from\nthe valley \ufb02oor to the col south of Great Pinnacle. The gully narrows and\nclimbs some short steeper steps towards the top. Avalanches are a serious\nhazard in winter after snowfall. From the col at the top of Grand Gully, the\nGreat Pinnacle is an intimidating prospect. The next two rouites describe two\nmethods of reaching the summit.", "ascent": null }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/ni/tongariro/mt-ruapehu/nga-tohu-pinnacle-ridge/great-pinnacle/traverse-gods", "name": "Traverse of the Gods", "grade": "1,I", "topo_ref": "12", "image": null, "images": [], "length": "60m", "pitches": [ { "alpine": "1", "commitment": "I", "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": "60m", "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "From the col, follow ledges across the face facing the ski\ufb01eld to reach the top of the Northwest Face. Exposed, but not difficult." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": null }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/ni/tongariro/mt-ruapehu/nga-tohu-pinnacle-ridge/great-pinnacle/tequila-sunrise", "name": "Tequila Sunrise", "grade": "4,I", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": "50m", "pitches": [ { "alpine": "4", "commitment": "I", "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": "50m", "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "Climb direct from the col. In winter conditions, an alternative is to drop down about 15m to the east into the start of a gully. You can traverse into the gully from the col, but starting lower makes a better, more sustained route. Climb back up the gully and then mixed ground to the top." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": null }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/ni/tongariro/mt-ruapehu/nga-tohu-pinnacle-ridge/great-pinnacle/east-rib", "name": "East Rib", "grade": "11", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": "100m", "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": "100m", "bolts": null, "trad": true, "ewbank": "11", "description": null } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": true, "description": "From the ridge north of Great Pinnacle, traverse along eastern slopes to reach the base of a rock rib that climbs directly to summit. Easy rock for two pitches. A pleasant variation to a climb of Great Pinnacle. See also http://www.mountainz.co.nz/content/article/article.php?article=141107_pinnacles.php&direct=nz", "ascent": "First ascent unknown" } ], "places": [], "image": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/wide/public/image/chiming_bells.jpg?itok=CSOqFRAx", "images": [ { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/wide/public/image/chiming_bells.jpg?itok=CSOqFRAx", "height": "440", "width": "587" }, { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/image/grand_gully.jpg?itok=aGLQqBVR", "height": "325", "width": "256" } ] }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/ni/tongariro/mt-ruapehu/nga-tohu-pinnacle-ridge/second-pinnacle", "name": "Second Pinnacle", "altitude": "2190m", "access": null, "description": "Also known as Middle Pinnacle, this is really two peaks, separated by a high col.", "latlng": [ "-39.25086604", "175.56959152" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/ni/tongariro/mt-ruapehu/nga-tohu-pinnacle-ridge/second-pinnacle/alf%E2%80%99s-big-day-out", "name": "Alf\u2019s Big Day Out", "grade": "2,I", "topo_ref": "1", "image": null, "images": [], "length": "30m", "pitches": [ { "alpine": "2", "commitment": "I", "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": "30m", "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "A short bit of fun up a dribble of ice to a small snow patch and the ridge." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Mike Peat, Matt Quirke, Alf Walsh, August 1996" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/ni/tongariro/mt-ruapehu/nga-tohu-pinnacle-ridge/second-pinnacle/west-ridge", "name": "West Ridge", "grade": "2,I", "topo_ref": "2", "image": null, "images": [], "length": "200m", "pitches": [ { "alpine": "2", "commitment": "I", "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": "200m", "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": null } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": "A charming line. The lower gendarme can be easily avoided by climbing to the\ncol beyond from the south side, but there are more tricky sections towards\nthe top.", "ascent": null }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/ni/tongariro/mt-ruapehu/nga-tohu-pinnacle-ridge/second-pinnacle/high-col-route", "name": "High Col Route", "grade": "2,I", "topo_ref": "3", "image": null, "images": [], "length": "200m", "pitches": [ { "alpine": "2", "commitment": "I", "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": "200m", "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": null } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": "A gully line leads to the col high on Second Pinnacle between its two peaks.", "ascent": null }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/ni/tongariro/mt-ruapehu/nga-tohu-pinnacle-ridge/second-pinnacle/south-west-buttress", "name": "South West Buttress", "grade": "2,I", "topo_ref": "4", "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": "2", "commitment": "I", "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": null } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": "From low in Gully 2, climb the buttress on the southern of the two peaks.", "ascent": null }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/ni/tongariro/mt-ruapehu/nga-tohu-pinnacle-ridge/second-pinnacle/gully-2", "name": "Gully 2", "grade": "1,I", "topo_ref": "5", "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": "1", "commitment": "I", "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": null } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": "The gully between the First and Second Pinnacles provides direct and rapid\naccess to (or off) the ridge.", "ascent": null } ], "places": [], "image": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/wide/public/image/Second_Pinnacle.jpg?itok=15Byqh8T", "images": [ { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/wide/public/image/Second_Pinnacle.jpg?itok=15Byqh8T", "height": "427", "width": "640" } ] }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/ni/tongariro/mt-ruapehu/nga-tohu-pinnacle-ridge/first-pinnacle", "name": "First Pinnacle", "altitude": "2234m", "access": null, "description": "The highest of the three main pinnacles. First Pinnacle also has several opportunities on its northern and eastern sides, but you\u2019ll almost always need to get up early to avoid hot, soft conditions on the northern aspects.", "latlng": [ "-39.25186302", "175.57100773" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/ni/tongariro/mt-ruapehu/nga-tohu-pinnacle-ridge/first-pinnacle/zig-zag-gully", "name": "Zig-Zag Gully", "grade": "1,I", "topo_ref": "1", "image": null, "images": [], "length": "160m", "pitches": [ { "alpine": "1", "commitment": "I", "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": "160m", "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": null } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": "Only really much of a zig-zag in summer. Leave Gully 2 where it turns towards\nthe col, and follow the broad, shallow gully to a notch in the ridge between\nFirst Pinnacle and the gendarme at the top of its West Ridge.", "ascent": null }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/ni/tongariro/mt-ruapehu/nga-tohu-pinnacle-ridge/first-pinnacle/west-face", "name": "West Face", "grade": "2,I", "topo_ref": "2", "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": "2", "commitment": "I", "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": null } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": "Climb out of Zig-Zag Gully and direct to the top.", "ascent": null }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/ni/tongariro/mt-ruapehu/nga-tohu-pinnacle-ridge/first-pinnacle/west-ridge", "name": "West Ridge", "grade": "1,I", "topo_ref": "3", "image": null, "images": [], "length": "130m", "pitches": [ { "alpine": "1", "commitment": "I", "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": "130m", "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": null } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": "Gain the col beyond Pink Floyd Buttress from either side, and continue up the\nridge to the summit. Alternatively (but significantly harder), start with\nWish You Were Here on the toe of Pink Floyd Buttress.", "ascent": null }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/ni/tongariro/mt-ruapehu/nga-tohu-pinnacle-ridge/first-pinnacle/south-east-face", "name": "South East Face", "grade": "1,I", "topo_ref": "4", "image": null, "images": [], "length": "250m", "pitches": [ { "alpine": "1", "commitment": "I", "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": "250m", "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": null } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": "In the right conditions this looks to be a nice, straightforward climb.", "ascent": null }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/ni/tongariro/mt-ruapehu/nga-tohu-pinnacle-ridge/first-pinnacle/north-east-ridge", "name": "North East Ridge", "grade": "2,I", "topo_ref": "5", "image": null, "images": [], "length": "350m", "pitches": [ { "alpine": "2", "commitment": "I", "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": "350m", "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": null } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": "A good line that unfortunately tends to soften very quickly once the sun hits\nit.", "ascent": null }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/ni/tongariro/mt-ruapehu/nga-tohu-pinnacle-ridge/first-pinnacle/north-face", "name": "North Face", "grade": "2,I", "topo_ref": "6", "image": null, "images": [], "length": "350m", "pitches": [ { "alpine": "2", "commitment": "I", "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": "350m", "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": null } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": "A gully runs direct to the summit. Again, watch for soft conditions.", "ascent": null } ], "places": [], "image": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/wide/public/image/First_Pinnacle.jpg?itok=66GkKmMh", "images": [ { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/wide/public/image/First_Pinnacle.jpg?itok=66GkKmMh", "height": "427", "width": "640" }, { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/image/First_Pinnacle_E.jpg?itok=FupJNJ2W", "height": "217", "width": "325" } ] }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/ni/tongariro/mt-ruapehu/nga-tohu-pinnacle-ridge/numb-buttress", "name": "Numb Buttress", "altitude": "2150m", "access": null, "description": "Also known as Pink Floyd Buttress, this west-facing outlier of First Pinnacle has mostly mixed routes of varying length and difficulty on generally good rock. Descend off the back of the gendarme to a small col, and down its south side. The \ufb01rst four routes start at the toe of the buttress, meeting about halfway up the ridge.", "latlng": [ "-39.25252767", "175.56946278" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/ni/tongariro/mt-ruapehu/nga-tohu-pinnacle-ridge/numb-buttress/wish-you-were-here", "name": "Wish You Were Here", "grade": "2,I", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": "150m", "pitches": [ { "alpine": "2", "commitment": "I", "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": "150m", "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "Mostly rock climbing on the north edge of the lower buttress." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Mike Peat, Chris Hoare, March 1992" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/ni/tongariro/mt-ruapehu/nga-tohu-pinnacle-ridge/numb-buttress/easy-street", "name": "Easy Street", "grade": "1,I,WI2", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": "150m", "pitches": [ { "alpine": "1", "commitment": "I", "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": "WI2", "mixed": null, "length": "150m", "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "The central gully." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": "Alpine grade 1 is misleading in icy conditions. Fully iced, it can be WI2\nwith some trickier sections.", "ascent": "Mike Peat, Peter Barnes, Darryl Steel, July 1991" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/ni/tongariro/mt-ruapehu/nga-tohu-pinnacle-ridge/numb-buttress/quirke-fate", "name": "Quirke of Fate", "grade": "2,I", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": "150m", "pitches": [ { "alpine": "2", "commitment": "I", "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": "150m", "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "An alternate start to the gully, up the buttress just to the right." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Mike Peat, Matt Quirke, June 1992" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/ni/tongariro/mt-ruapehu/nga-tohu-pinnacle-ridge/numb-buttress/hoare-frost", "name": "Hoare Frost", "grade": "2,I", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": "150m", "pitches": [ { "alpine": "2", "commitment": "I", "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": "150m", "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "A vague gully, then up the right edge of the buttress." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Mike Peat, Chris Hoare, March 1992" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/ni/tongariro/mt-ruapehu/nga-tohu-pinnacle-ridge/numb-buttress/crazy-diamond-couloir", "name": "Crazy Diamond Couloir", "grade": "2,I", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": "140m", "pitches": [ { "alpine": "2", "commitment": "I", "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": "140m", "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "Tackles a vague rib." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Mike Peat, Kristen Foley, June 1991" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/ni/tongariro/mt-ruapehu/nga-tohu-pinnacle-ridge/numb-buttress/comfortably-numb", "name": "Comfortably Numb", "grade": "2,I", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": "120m", "pitches": [ { "alpine": "2", "commitment": "I", "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": "120m", "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "The couloir on the left side of the main face. Climb up to join the ridge." } ], "quality": 1, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Matt Quirke, Mike Peat, June 1992" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/ni/tongariro/mt-ruapehu/nga-tohu-pinnacle-ridge/numb-buttress/hokey-pokey", "name": "Hokey Pokey", "grade": "3,I", "topo_ref": null, "image": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/route/Hokey%20Pokey.jpg?itok=yZ3g_K1d", "images": [ { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/route/Hokey%20Pokey.jpg?itok=yZ3g_K1d", "height": "230", "width": "325" } ], "length": "120m", "pitches": [ { "alpine": "3", "commitment": "I", "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": "120m", "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "An excellent route, taking the obvious curving line up and across the face." } ], "quality": 1, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Mike Peat, Peter Barnes, Darryl Steel, July 1991" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/ni/tongariro/mt-ruapehu/nga-tohu-pinnacle-ridge/numb-buttress/learning-fly", "name": "Learning to Fly", "grade": "4,I", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": "100m", "pitches": [ { "alpine": "2", "commitment": "I", "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": "50m", "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "Climb the first pitch of Hokey Pokey." }, { "alpine": "4", "commitment": "II", "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": "50m", "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "Some steep, hard climbing is followed by a long run out to the top." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": "A direct and committing line.", "ascent": "Mike Peat, Matt Quirke, June 1992" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/ni/tongariro/mt-ruapehu/nga-tohu-pinnacle-ridge/numb-buttress/delicate-sound-thunder", "name": "Delicate Sound of Thunder", "grade": "3,I", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": "120m", "pitches": [ { "alpine": "3", "commitment": "I", "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": "120m", "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "Climb just left of the arete, joining it a pitch from the top. Requires good ice cover \u2013 or a willingness to tackle extremely compact, run-out rock." } ], "quality": 1, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Mike Peat, Kristen Foley, June 1991" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/ni/tongariro/mt-ruapehu/nga-tohu-pinnacle-ridge/numb-buttress/momentary-lapse-reason", "name": "A Momentary Lapse of Reason", "grade": "14,4,II", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": "120m", "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": "40m", "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "Climb the ar\u00eate to belay below the first steep section." }, { "alpine": "4", "commitment": "II", "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": "40m", "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": "14", "description": "The next moves, heading up and right onto very compact rock, are the crux." }, { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": "40m", "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "The final pitch is a scramble to the top." } ], "quality": 1, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": "Good climbing on the ar\u00eate, with a tricky crux. Can be climbed in summer as a rock route.", "ascent": "Mike Peat, Darryl Steel, Peter Barnes, July 1991" } ], "places": [], "image": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/wide/public/image/P6230008.jpg?itok=pfgJSykJ", "images": [ { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/wide/public/image/P6230008.jpg?itok=pfgJSykJ", "height": "500", "width": "400" } ] }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/ni/tongariro/mt-ruapehu/nga-tohu-pinnacle-ridge/moonshine-buttress", "name": "Moonshine Buttress", "altitude": null, "access": null, "description": "This short buttress lies in the upper Te Heuheu valley, beyond First Pinnacle and just below the crest of Pinnacle Ridge.", "latlng": [ "-39.25375725", "175.56972027" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/ni/tongariro/mt-ruapehu/nga-tohu-pinnacle-ridge/moonshine-buttress/white-lightning", "name": "White Lightning", "grade": "2,II", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": "30m", "pitches": [ { "alpine": "2", "commitment": "II", "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": "30m", "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "For those who like loose rock and sparse protection." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Mike Peat (solo), July 1991" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/ni/tongariro/mt-ruapehu/nga-tohu-pinnacle-ridge/moonshine-buttress/whiskey", "name": "Whiskey", "grade": "1,I", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": "30m", "pitches": [ { "alpine": "1", "commitment": "I", "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": "30m", "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "A gully in the middle of the face." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Mike Peat, Peter Barnes, Darryl Steel, July 1991" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/ni/tongariro/mt-ruapehu/nga-tohu-pinnacle-ridge/moonshine-buttress/bourbon", "name": "Bourbon", "grade": "2,I", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": "30m", "pitches": [ { "alpine": "2", "commitment": "I", "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": "30m", "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "This gully relents quickly after a short, steep start." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Mike Peat, Peter Barnes, Darryl Steel, July 1991" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/ni/tongariro/mt-ruapehu/nga-tohu-pinnacle-ridge/moonshine-buttress/scotch-rocks", "name": "Scotch on the Rocks", "grade": "2,I", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": "20m", "pitches": [ { "alpine": "2", "commitment": "I", "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": "20m", "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "A solid buttress, but difficult to protect." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Mike Peat (solo)" } ], "places": [], "image": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/wide/public/image/P6230004.jpg?itok=YkdEAU_H", "images": [ { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/wide/public/image/P6230004.jpg?itok=YkdEAU_H", "height": "506", "width": "900" } ] }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/ni/tongariro/mt-ruapehu/nga-tohu-pinnacle-ridge/te-herenga", "name": "Te Herenga", "altitude": null, "access": null, "description": "On the upper north-eastern side of Pinnacle Ridge and visible peeking over from the NZAC hut are a number of steep, easily accessible routes that offer interesting and challenging climbing.", "latlng": null, "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/ni/tongariro/mt-ruapehu/nga-tohu-pinnacle-ridge/te-herenga/moonage-daydream", "name": "Moonage Daydream", "grade": "13,M2", "topo_ref": null, "image": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/routes/Te_Herenga_Gnome.jpg?itok=5wlk0l8m", "images": [ { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/routes/Te_Herenga_Gnome.jpg?itok=5wlk0l8m", "height": "246", "width": "325" } ], "length": "45m", "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": "M2", "length": "45m", "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": "13", "description": "Starts up a corner on The Gnome and leads to a short steep wall (crux 13) and then an easy ridge and a final steep pitch to the summit. There is a straightforward downclimb to the west." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Yibai He, Mike Peat, June 2006" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/ni/tongariro/mt-ruapehu/nga-tohu-pinnacle-ridge/te-herenga/wave-phase", "name": "Wave of Phase", "grade": "14,M3", "topo_ref": null, "image": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/routes/Te_Herenga_South_Central_0.jpg?itok=B8UhJyE2", "images": [ { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/routes/Te_Herenga_South_Central_0.jpg?itok=B8UhJyE2", "height": "244", "width": "325" } ], "length": "60m", "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": "M3", "length": "60m", "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": "14", "description": "A two-pitch (25m, 35m) mixed route on the South Tower starts from the toe of the tower and ascends trickier-than-it-looks and rather loose rock to a belay on the large ledge in the middle of the face. Pitch 2 continues up the obvious wall on very nice rock (crux 14). The descent involves an abseil (15m) down the north side." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Mike Peat, Tom Wilson, July 2006" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/ni/tongariro/mt-ruapehu/nga-tohu-pinnacle-ridge/te-herenga/cosmic-jive", "name": "Cosmic Jive", "grade": "16,M4", "topo_ref": null, "image": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/routes/Te_Herenga_South_Central.jpg?itok=IJ15sVFd", "images": [ { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/routes/Te_Herenga_South_Central.jpg?itok=IJ15sVFd", "height": "244", "width": "325" } ], "length": "45m", "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": "M4", "length": "45m", "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": "16", "description": "On the Central Tower, the route starts with a traverse above easy ground to the start of the route, heads up and right around the prow of the buttress and then up a steep wall with sustained moves (crux 16). This leads into a corner system that provides interesting climbing to the summit. The descent is a 20m abseil to the north." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Yibai He, Mike Peat, June 2006" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/ni/tongariro/mt-ruapehu/nga-tohu-pinnacle-ridge/te-herenga/religiously-unkind", "name": "Religiously Unkind", "grade": "16", "topo_ref": null, "image": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/routes/Te_Herenga_North.jpg?itok=yyso7_kH", "images": [ { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/routes/Te_Herenga_North.jpg?itok=yyso7_kH", "height": "325", "width": "245" } ], "length": "65m", "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": "65m", "bolts": null, "trad": true, "ewbank": "16", "description": "A two-pitch (40m and 25m) summer rock route up a reasonably safe line to the left of the chimney. Descent was via a 30m abseil to the southwest." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": true, "description": null, "ascent": "Mike Peat, John Dawkins, March 2007" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/ni/tongariro/mt-ruapehu/nga-tohu-pinnacle-ridge/te-herenga/road-purgatory", "name": "Road to Purgatory", "grade": "14,M3", "topo_ref": null, "image": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/route/road%20to%20purgatory.png?itok=Qkz4im1y", "images": [ { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/route/road%20to%20purgatory.png?itok=Qkz4im1y", "height": "325", "width": "244" } ], "length": "25m", "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": "M3", "length": "25m", "bolts": null, "trad": true, "ewbank": "14", "description": "On the North Te Herenga Tower, climb the short offwidth to the first icefield, continue up until and through a short gully and through another icefield to the bottom of a short face. Once this is climbed (crux) another short icefield leads to a horn belay. This route was originally climbed to retrieve ropes stuck after an ascent of Religiously Unkind. Take large cams, wires and sling threads." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": true, "description": null, "ascent": "Joseph Nelson, 26 September 2011" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/ni/tongariro/mt-ruapehu/nga-tohu-pinnacle-ridge/te-herenga/snow-white-tan", "name": "Snow White Tan", "grade": "WI2", "topo_ref": null, "image": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/routes/Te_Herenga_Arrowhead_2.jpg?itok=ZktrQ5sA", "images": [ { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/routes/Te_Herenga_Arrowhead_2.jpg?itok=ZktrQ5sA", "height": "237", "width": "325" } ], "length": "120m", "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": "WI2", "mixed": null, "length": "120m", "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "On the Arrowhead Buttress, start on the left side of the lower buttress and ascend the obvious ice flow. Then follow a broad snow gully tending left into a narrow couloir, where it is necessary to either climb the ice or bridge up the rock walls. The route pops over an adjoining snow ridge and up an easy gully to a very loose summit. The descent continues over the summit." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Mike Peat, Tom Wilson, August 2006" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/ni/tongariro/mt-ruapehu/nga-tohu-pinnacle-ridge/te-herenga/tigers-vaseline", "name": "Tigers on Vaseline", "grade": "15,M4", "topo_ref": null, "image": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/routes/Te_Herenga_Arrowhead.jpg?itok=TaDRsqv3", "images": [ { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/routes/Te_Herenga_Arrowhead.jpg?itok=TaDRsqv3", "height": "325", "width": "244" } ], "length": "115m", "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": "M4", "length": "50m", "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": "15", "description": "Begin on the north side of the lower buttress and climbs through a small overhang (crux 15) and up easier but interesting climbing to the nose of the buttress, where it steepens again (crux 12) to an airy belay." }, { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": "25m", "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "Continues along the blocky level portion of the ridge across a cheval to a belay on the small saddle at the toe of the upper buttress." }, { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": "40m", "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "Climb directly up from the saddle on steep ice / mixed ground to the left of the rock buttress, leading to easier ground. The climb then finishes up a short ice gully with a loose rock wall at its head. The summit is very loose and exposed, and it requires some work to hook axes over the top and peer over before retreating to a better belay stance at the notch to the north of the summit." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": "This climb on the Arrowhead Buttress is a superb route. The descent is a 25m abseil down the western side from the notch.", "ascent": "Mike Peat, Tom Wilson, July 2006" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/ni/tongariro/mt-ruapehu/nga-tohu-pinnacle-ridge/te-herenga/leper-messiah", "name": "Leper Messiah", "grade": "WI3", "topo_ref": null, "image": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/routes/Te_Herenga_Shield.jpg?itok=Ucj00yyx", "images": [ { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/routes/Te_Herenga_Shield.jpg?itok=Ucj00yyx", "height": "235", "width": "325" } ], "length": "100m", "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": "WI3", "mixed": null, "length": "100m", "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "A two pitch climb on The Shield, destined to become a classic. From the centre of the face, tend left toward the snow ar\u00eate and up 50 degree ice to a belay. Pitch 2 heads up a short steep ice wall (crux) then tends right across the ice shield. Above this, the terrain relents from 60 to 50 degrees. The final part of the climb is up a 60 degree gully to the summit. Descend via either a 10 m abseil down the west side or a steepish down climb also to the west from the south end of the summit block." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Mike Peat, Tom Wilson, August 2006" } ], "places": [], "image": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/wide/public/image/Te_Herenga.jpg?itok=KAeA-WdN", "images": [ { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/wide/public/image/Te_Herenga.jpg?itok=KAeA-WdN", "height": "725", "width": "1090" } ] } ], "image": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/wide/public/image/Nga%20Tohu.jpg?itok=SK-piBKH", "images": [ { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/wide/public/image/Nga%20Tohu.jpg?itok=SK-piBKH", "height": "390", "width": "900" } ] }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/ni/tongariro/mt-ruapehu/te-heuheu", "name": "Te Heuheu", "altitude": "2732m", "access": null, "description": "The Waikato River has its source on the flanks of this peak, which presents quite different characteristics when viewed from its different aspects. From Whakapapa it is a huge bulk, a formless mass rather than a peak. From the north-east, on the Desert Road, it is the most distinctive of Ruapehu\u2019s summits, an elegant cone. Seen from Tukino, Te Heu Heu is a grand peak, capped by intimidating rows of bluffs. These leaning bluffs are still more impressive when looking up at the peak\u2019s short, steep southern faces from the Summit Plateau.", "latlng": [ "-39.2663841", "175.57890415" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/ni/tongariro/mt-ruapehu/te-heuheu/north-east-ridge", "name": "North East Ridge", "grade": "1,I", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": "1450m", "pitches": [ { "alpine": "1", "commitment": "I", "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": "1450m", "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "A long, stately ridge that is seldom climbed. All the same, its elegance and the fact that it was the route of the first recorded ascent of any of Ruapehu\u2019s peaks give it some claim to classic status. The old Waihohonu Hut, 45 minutes off the Desert Road, was once the regular setting off point for climbs of the mountain, and remains the best point to set out from on this route. The ridge itself is not difficult, but makes for a long day. Descend the same way." } ], "quality": 1, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "First recorded ascent by Thomas and John Allison, 12 December 1877" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/ni/tongariro/mt-ruapehu/te-heuheu/whakapapa-route", "name": "Whakapapa Route", "grade": "1,I", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": "550m", "pitches": [ { "alpine": "1", "commitment": "I", "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": "550m", "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "From the top of the Te Heu Heu valley T-bar at Whakapapa skifield, gain the upper end of Pinnacle Ridge where it merges into the bulk of the upper mountain. Climb towards the saddle between Te Heu Heu and Tukino and then along the crater rim to the summit." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": null }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/ni/tongariro/mt-ruapehu/te-heuheu/south-face", "name": "South Face", "grade": "2,I", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": "150m", "pitches": [ { "alpine": "2", "commitment": "I", "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": "150m", "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "The South Face is an aesthetic slab of snow or ice rising from the col at the northeastern end of the summit plateau, and perhaps the best route on the peak. About four pitches, mostly around 50 degrees but up to 65 degrees. Conditions will vary; typically hard snow in late winter and summer, by late autumn iron-hard ice may be encountered. The left side of the face has a rather better run-out \u2013 the right edge, however, is a more atmospheric place to be." } ], "quality": 1, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": null }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/ni/tongariro/mt-ruapehu/te-heuheu/east-ridge", "name": "East Ridge", "grade": "2,I", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": "1000m", "pitches": [ { "alpine": "2", "commitment": "I", "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": "1000m", "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "Gain access to the full East Ridge from the head of Tukino ski\ufb01eld by climbing into and across the huge basin below the Mangatoetoenui Glacier. The lower ridge is straightforward, made more interesting by the steep bluffs that fall below to the Mangatoetoenui Glacier. The ridge gradually narrows and steepens: the \ufb01nal step below the summit, although short, will likely require a rope. In winter the rocks may be heavily rimed. The \ufb01nal step can also be reached from the north-east corner of the Summit Plateau, by traversing across the South East Face between the two bands of cliffs." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": null } ], "places": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/ni/tongariro/mt-ruapehu/te-heuheu/south-east-face", "name": "South East Face", "altitude": null, "access": null, "description": "This face is made up of two steep cliff bands. The lower cliffs are best climbed as ice routes and often form up well; the scandalously steep upper cliff has some rock routes and scope for many more. Once above the lower cliff band, either traverse back down to the Summit Plateau or continue up to your right and \ufb01nish with the top pitch of the East Ridge.", "latlng": null, "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/ni/tongariro/mt-ruapehu/te-heuheu/south-east-face/left-route", "name": "Left Route", "grade": "4,I", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": "4", "commitment": "I", "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "One or two pitches on the left side of the lower band, depending on snow levels." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": null }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/ni/tongariro/mt-ruapehu/te-heuheu/south-east-face/central-route", "name": "Central Route", "grade": "3,I", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": "3", "commitment": "I", "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "A steep start for 30-40m, in the middle of the lower cliff band, then a rising leftwards traverse." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": null }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/ni/tongariro/mt-ruapehu/te-heuheu/south-east-face/right-route", "name": "Right Route", "grade": "4,I", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": "4", "commitment": "I", "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "A steeper line, on the right of the lower cliff band, leading to the col on the East Ridge." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": null }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/ni/tongariro/mt-ruapehu/te-heuheu/south-east-face/left-crack", "name": "Left Crack", "grade": "13", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": "7m", "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": "7m", "bolts": null, "trad": true, "ewbank": "13", "description": "The left-most crack on the summit bluffs and the first obvious line." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": true, "description": null, "ascent": "Ray Button (solo), April 1977" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/ni/tongariro/mt-ruapehu/te-heuheu/south-east-face/middle-corner", "name": "Middle Corner", "grade": "14", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": "12m", "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": "12m", "bolts": null, "trad": true, "ewbank": "14", "description": "The easiest-looking crack and corner line in the middle of the summit bluffs, right of the steepest section." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": true, "description": null, "ascent": "Ray Button, April 1977" } ], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] } ], "image": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/wide/public/image/Te%20Heuheu.jpg?itok=aZnZYZ4_", "images": [ { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/wide/public/image/Te%20Heuheu.jpg?itok=aZnZYZ4_", "height": "600", "width": "900" } ] }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/ni/tongariro/mt-ruapehu/tukino-pk", "name": "Tukino Pk", "altitude": "2721m", "access": null, "description": "From the north, Tukino is little more than a bump on the ridge that forms the crater rim of the Summit Plateau. As such, you could take in the summit as part of an enjoyable traverse of the crater rim from Glacier Knob to Te Heuheu. Climbing straight up out of the Te Heuheu valley at Whakapapa \u2013 a simple snow plod \u2013 will also lead you to the top.\nThe South West Face is spectacular and popular, albeit short and often massively rimed. Snow stakes may be more useful than ice screws. Descend the steep and wide gully to the west of the peak.", "latlng": [ "-39.26694893", "175.57628632" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/ni/tongariro/mt-ruapehu/tukino-pk/tukino-crater-rim", "name": "Tukino Crater Rim", "grade": null, "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": "The steep inside wall of the crater rim, running west from Tukino Pk above\nthe Summit Plateau, can be a pleasant place to spend time climbing single\npitch ice routes. Many lines were climbed by Graeme Dingle and Ray Button,\n1974\u201375.", "ascent": null }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/ni/tongariro/mt-ruapehu/tukino-pk/left-gully", "name": "Left Gully", "grade": "2,I", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": "80m", "pitches": [ { "alpine": "2", "commitment": "I", "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": "80m", "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "A slightly shorter and less difficult climb than the Central Gully. Two pitches." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Graeme Dingle, 1974" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/ni/tongariro/mt-ruapehu/tukino-pk/central-gully", "name": "Central Gully", "grade": "3,I", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": "100m", "pitches": [ { "alpine": "3", "commitment": "I", "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": "100m", "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "The central gully to a small notch in the ridge just west of the peak. Two pitches." } ], "quality": 1, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Graeme Dingle, 1974" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/ni/tongariro/mt-ruapehu/tukino-pk/south-buttress", "name": "South Buttress", "grade": "2,I", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": "150m", "pitches": [ { "alpine": "2", "commitment": "I", "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": "150m", "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "A series of steps, depending on season and snow depth." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": null } ], "places": [], "image": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/wide/public/image/Tukino%20Pk.jpg?itok=NRJlmXh6", "images": [ { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/wide/public/image/Tukino%20Pk.jpg?itok=NRJlmXh6", "height": "506", "width": "900" } ] }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/ni/tongariro/mt-ruapehu/matihao-cathedral-rocks", "name": "Matihao (Cathedral Rocks)", "altitude": "2663m", "access": null, "description": "Hardly looking like peaks at all from the Summit Plateau, Matihao can lay a solid claim to having the best ice routes on Ruapehu on its South Face.", "latlng": [ "-39.27372656", "175.572896" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/ni/tongariro/mt-ruapehu/matihao-cathedral-rocks/summit-plateau", "name": "From Summit Plateau", "grade": "1,I", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": "50m", "pitches": [ { "alpine": "1", "commitment": "I", "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": "50m", "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "From the Summit Plateau the three outcrops of Matihao are easy climbs \u2013 the southern two being short, steep clambers." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": null }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/ni/tongariro/mt-ruapehu/matihao-cathedral-rocks/accidental-pleasure", "name": "Accidental Pleasure", "grade": "WI3", "topo_ref": "South Face", "image": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/routes/Screenshot%202020-07-13%20at%2011.03.55.png?itok=MdOIR7OI", "images": [ { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/routes/Screenshot%202020-07-13%20at%2011.03.55.png?itok=MdOIR7OI", "height": "168", "width": "325" } ], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": "WI3", "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": null } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": "Start as for Lahar View, then head left. After first step follow left hand chimney and corner until you reach as small ledge/pinnacle then follow left trending ice bulges unto upper slopes. After easy grade runout surmount last step and follow easy grade slopes to belay at the top.\nWe did it in three pitches.\nPossibly climbed before, but a great outing and worth a mention/ description.", "ascent": "Adam Power, Dion Fabbro 2020" } ], "places": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/ni/tongariro/mt-ruapehu/matihao/south-face", "name": "South Face", "altitude": null, "access": null, "description": "Matihao can lay a solid claim to having the best ice routes on Ruapehu on its South Face. These climbs are long, steep and exposed \u2013 and being high on the mountain they can remain in condition late into spring.", "latlng": null, "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/ni/tongariro/mt-ruapehu/matihao/south-face/left-couloir", "name": "Left Couloir", "grade": "3,I", "topo_ref": null, "image": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/route/left%20couloir%20-%201.jpg?itok=BPvV_v8u", "images": [ { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/route/left%20couloir%20-%201.jpg?itok=BPvV_v8u", "height": "224", "width": "325" } ], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": "3", "commitment": "I", "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": null } ], "quality": 1, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": "A great two-pitch route up the major couloir on the left end of the face, to\ntop out on the col between the two southern summit outcrops.", "ascent": null }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/ni/tongariro/mt-ruapehu/matihao/south-face/easy-gully", "name": "Easy Gully", "grade": "1,I", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": "1", "commitment": "I", "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": null } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": "A pleasant introduction to the South Face.", "ascent": null }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/ni/tongariro/mt-ruapehu/matihao/south-face/accidental-pleasure", "name": "Accidental Pleasure", "grade": "WI3", "topo_ref": null, "image": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/routes/Screenshot%202020-07-13%20at%2011.03.55_0.png?itok=mPYC3v1O", "images": [ { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/routes/Screenshot%202020-07-13%20at%2011.03.55_0.png?itok=mPYC3v1O", "height": "168", "width": "325" } ], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": "WI3", "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": null } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": "Start as for Lahar View, then head left. After first step follow left hand chimney and corner until you reach as small ledge/pinnacle then follow left trending ice bulges unto upper slopes. After easy grade runout surmount last step and follow easy grade slopes to belay at the top.\nWe did it in three pitches.\nPossibly climbed before, but a great outing and worth a mention/ description.", "ascent": "Adam Power, Dion Fabbro 2020" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/ni/tongariro/mt-ruapehu/matihao/south-face/lahar-view", "name": "Lahar View", "grade": "4,I", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": "4", "commitment": "I", "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": null } ], "quality": 1, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": "\u201cThree of us climbed the central gully in November 1977 up three pitches of\nice and snow lightly covered with ash from the recent eruptions\u201d \u2013 Harry\nKeys.\nThe left-hand line on the main central face, with a \ufb01ne last pitch on to\nthe summit block.", "ascent": "Harry Keys, Tony Teeling, Tony Connell, November 1977" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/ni/tongariro/mt-ruapehu/matihao/south-face/piton-route", "name": "Piton Route", "grade": "4,I", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": "4", "commitment": "I", "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": null } ], "quality": 1, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": "Climbs the left side of the \ufb02ow, exiting on to the col between the two\nsummit blocks.", "ascent": null }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/ni/tongariro/mt-ruapehu/matihao/south-face/route-five", "name": "Route Five", "grade": "4,I", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": "4", "commitment": "I", "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": null } ], "quality": 1, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": "A little steeper than the Piton Route, moving into a nice gully near the top\nof the lower face. Finding a sound belay in soft snow on the middle ledge can\nbe tricky; look for rock if possible. A second pitch is a two-move wonder\nthrough the rock band.", "ascent": null }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/ni/tongariro/mt-ruapehu/matihao/south-face/straight-route", "name": "Straight Route", "grade": "4,I", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": "4", "commitment": "I", "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": null } ], "quality": 1, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": "The best of the easier routes, consistently steep with nice bulges lower\ndown. Drift right as you near the middle ledge and the difficulties ease.", "ascent": null }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/ni/tongariro/mt-ruapehu/matihao/south-face/corner-route", "name": "Corner Route", "grade": "5,I", "topo_ref": null, "image": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/route/cornerroute_0.jpg?itok=cy_yjqgq", "images": [ { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/route/cornerroute_0.jpg?itok=cy_yjqgq", "height": "192", "width": "325" } ], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": "5", "commitment": "I", "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "Climb mixed ground into a shallow corner. Climb this until forced right onto moderately steep ice that eases towards the belay." } ], "quality": 1, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Don French. Rob McBrearty, 1988" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/ni/tongariro/mt-ruapehu/matihao/south-face/blind-faith", "name": "Blind Faith", "grade": "WI4+ or M6/WI4+", "topo_ref": null, "image": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/routes/Greg%20on%20Blind%20Faith.%20June%202016.%20Photo%20Edwin%20Sheppard.jpg?itok=a8jfbIbu", "images": [ { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/routes/Greg%20on%20Blind%20Faith.%20June%202016.%20Photo%20Edwin%20Sheppard.jpg?itok=a8jfbIbu", "height": "192", "width": "325" } ], "length": null, "pitches": [], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": "70m long route on the left-hand side of the main rock buttress. Can be a fully formed (although thin) water-ice route or a mixed line up to an ice pillar. Excellent either way.\nClimb up low-angled ice steps then up steep, challenging climbing to the vertical ice pillar.\nDescent: Rap off v-threads or climb the low-angle ice above the route through the second tier, then walk around.\nGear: Screws including stubbies, rock gear if it's not fully formed.", "ascent": "Possible FA by Edwin Sheppard and Gregor Kolbe June 2016. Climbed by Di Drayton and Jono Clarke as a mixed route June 2017." }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/ni/tongariro/mt-ruapehu/matihao/south-face/eyes-pies", "name": "Eyes on the Pies", "grade": "WI2,M6", "topo_ref": null, "image": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/routes/Matihao%2011-07-2020%20Eyes%20on%20the%20Pies%20M6%20Greg%20on%20P1.jpg?itok=1GWPXC8C", "images": [ { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/routes/Matihao%2011-07-2020%20Eyes%20on%20the%20Pies%20M6%20Greg%20on%20P1.jpg?itok=1GWPXC8C", "height": "217", "width": "325" }, { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/routes/Matihao%2011-07-2020%20Eyes%20on%20the%20Pies%20P2%20%282%29%20Photo%20Edwin%20Sheppard.jpg?itok=_z0VvYTm", "height": "325", "width": "217" } ], "length": "85m", "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": "WI2", "mixed": null, "length": "25m", "bolts": null, "trad": true, "ewbank": null, "description": "Up ice steps to belay just left of chimney." }, { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": "M6", "length": "45m", "bolts": null, "trad": true, "ewbank": null, "description": "Up right into chimney, weave through one or two rock caves with stemming moves, then straight up vertical pick crack to top. Takes good gear up to hard top out over ice bulge." }, { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": "WI3", "mixed": null, "length": "15m", "bolts": null, "trad": true, "ewbank": null, "description": "From ledge, up low angle groove directly above P2. Easy climbing but unprotectable. Walking off along the ledge is an option if you want to avoid this pitch." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": true, "description": "Starts below deep cleft about 30m left of Mr Lava Lava.\nGear: 4-5 short screws, wires, 2 sets medium-large cams, 1 set small cams, hexes, couple of pitons.", "ascent": "FA Gregor Kolbe, Edwin Sheppard, Shaun Brown, July 2020" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/ni/tongariro/mt-ruapehu/matihao/south-face/ubiquitous-ed", "name": "Ubiquitous Ed", "grade": "WI2,M5", "topo_ref": null, "image": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/routes/Matihao%2030-07-2020%20Ubiquitous%20Ed%20Rimma%20on%20P1.jpg?itok=NMdrGseL", "images": [ { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/routes/Matihao%2030-07-2020%20Ubiquitous%20Ed%20Rimma%20on%20P1.jpg?itok=NMdrGseL", "height": "325", "width": "217" }, { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/routes/Matihao%2030-07-2020%20Ubiquitous%20Ed%20M5%20Edwin%20on%20P2.jpg?itok=I7Y6H9OW", "height": "325", "width": "325" } ], "length": "85m", "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": "WI2", "mixed": null, "length": "25m", "bolts": null, "trad": true, "ewbank": null, "description": "Up moderate ice to belay at the base of the blocky groove." }, { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": "M5", "length": "45m", "bolts": null, "trad": true, "ewbank": null, "description": "M5+ ish. Up the blocky groove and then trend right to climb the left-facing corner to the ledge. A little run-out in places." }, { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": "M4", "length": "15m", "bolts": null, "trad": true, "ewbank": null, "description": "Climb up under the giant hanging boulder and out the right-hand side. Decent rock gear." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": true, "description": "Great route up the blocky groove 10m right of the deep cleft that is Eyes on the Pies.", "ascent": "FA Gregor Kolbe, Edwin Sheppard, Rimma Kade, July 2020" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/ni/tongariro/mt-ruapehu/matihao/south-face/mr-lava-lava", "name": "Mr Lava Lava", "grade": "M6", "topo_ref": null, "image": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/route/IMG_1803_0.JPG?itok=1v4SKIGa", "images": [ { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/route/IMG_1803_0.JPG?itok=1v4SKIGa", "height": "325", "width": "244" } ], "length": "70m", "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": "M6", "length": "70m", "bolts": null, "trad": true, "ewbank": null, "description": "Takes one of the many steep cracks in central section of face. Started up left facing corner on left side of large pillar. Then climbs striking offwidth in center of pillar." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": true, "description": null, "ascent": "Steven Fortune, Matt Thom, August 2012" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/ni/tongariro/mt-ruapehu/matihao/south-face/method-man", "name": "Method Man", "grade": "M5", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": "60m", "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": "M5", "length": "40m", "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "Follow rightward trending ledges to a belay under the short black roof." }, { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": "M7", "length": "20m", "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "Climb through the roof into an overhanging corner, follow the corner through two cruxes" } ], "quality": 1, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "FA Jacob Kuchler, roped solo, May 2023" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/ni/tongariro/mt-ruapehu/matihao/south-face/kelpie-yelpie", "name": "Kelpie Yelpie", "grade": "M7", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": "20m", "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": "M7", "length": "20m", "bolts": null, "trad": true, "ewbank": null, "description": "Corner cracks with good gear to belay ledge with huge cracks. Rapped off rock thread." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": true, "description": null, "ascent": "FA Jono Clarke and Di Drayton, June 2021" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/ni/tongariro/mt-ruapehu/matihao/south-face/rusty-piton", "name": "Rusty piton", "grade": "M7", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": "70m", "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": "M7", "length": "70m", "bolts": null, "trad": true, "ewbank": null, "description": "Hard climbing with good gear up crack systems on the right side of the face." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": true, "description": null, "ascent": "FA Romain Albert and Wayne Marshall, 2021" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/ni/tongariro/mt-ruapehu/matihao/south-face/ride-lightning", "name": "Ride the Lightning", "grade": "M7", "topo_ref": null, "image": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/routes/20220917_130124.jpg?itok=QH_z8r59", "images": [ { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/routes/20220917_130124.jpg?itok=QH_z8r59", "height": "325", "width": "244" } ], "length": "70m", "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": "M7", "length": "20m", "bolts": null, "trad": true, "ewbank": null, "description": "Start directly up the blank slab to the right of 'Rusty Piton Route' and continue into some staunch moves up the steep and fractured face above." }, { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": "M6", "length": "50m", "bolts": null, "trad": true, "ewbank": null, "description": "Carry on up the low angle terrain above, trend leftward to a stance on a large block below the final headwall, follow the obvious line of weakness to the top." } ], "quality": 1, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": true, "description": null, "ascent": "FA Jacob Kuchler, Mark Challoner, September 2022" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/ni/tongariro/mt-ruapehu/matihao/south-face/your-mom", "name": "Like Your Mom", "grade": "M5", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": "60m", "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": "M5", "length": "40m", "bolts": null, "trad": true, "ewbank": null, "description": "Start up steep crack system (10m) to more ramble-y terrain then up steep corner to belay" }, { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": "M3", "length": "20m", "bolts": null, "trad": true, "ewbank": null, "description": "Exit/traverse up and right." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": true, "description": "Starts about 30 meters to the left of Goblin's Thrash up a steep crack\nsystem. Good hooks. Belay on small ledge at about 40m off the deck. Second\npitch exited out right due to poor ice conditions, but would be good when\nice is better. about 60m total, M5 for first pitch,M3/4 for second. Some\nloose rock. Walk off. Fun, but not amazing, route.", "ascent": "Graham Johnson, Anesh Narsai 10/11/13" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/ni/tongariro/mt-ruapehu/matihao/south-face/goblin%E2%80%99s-thrash", "name": "Goblin\u2019s Thrash", "grade": "3,I", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": "30m", "pitches": [ { "alpine": "3", "commitment": "I", "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": "30m", "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "A short line on the far right end of the wall." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Rob McBrearty, Don French, October 1993" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/ni/tongariro/mt-ruapehu/matihao/south-face/ultra-right", "name": "Ultra Right", "grade": "2,I", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": "2", "commitment": "I", "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "Shorter still and further right." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Don French, Mike Peat, July-August 1991" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/ni/tongariro/mt-ruapehu/matihao/south-face/strange-onions", "name": "Strange Onions", "grade": "M5", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": "60m", "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": "M5", "length": "60m", "bolts": null, "trad": true, "ewbank": null, "description": null } ], "quality": 1, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": true, "description": "A fun,moderate, two pitch mixed route on good rock. Pitch 1: M5- Start just\nright of Ultra Right up a short chimney. Continue straight up to an alcove at\nthe base of a overhanging hand crack. #3 C4 fits well here. Pitch 2: M5 Duck\ndown and right around the corner to the base of a left-facing chimney/corner.\nClimb up corner to the top and walk-off.", "ascent": "Graham Johnson" } ], "places": [], "image": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/wide/public/image/20230604_184125.jpg?itok=qWnMj_R_", "images": [ { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/wide/public/image/20230604_184125.jpg?itok=qWnMj_R_", "height": "562", "width": "1090" } ] } ], "image": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/wide/public/image/Matihao-South-Face.jpg?itok=maH6fNOB", "images": [ { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/wide/public/image/Matihao-South-Face.jpg?itok=maH6fNOB", "height": "506", "width": "900" } ] }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/ni/tongariro/mt-ruapehu/paretetaitonga", "name": "Paretetaitonga", "altitude": "2751m", "access": null, "description": "Paretetaitonga is the third highest peak of the Ruapehu massif. Its situation, in the centre of the mountain and directly above Crater Lake, makes it a \ufb01ne point from which to view the high peaks and crater of the volcano.", "latlng": [ "-39.27585274", "175.55804729" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/ni/tongariro/mt-ruapehu/paretetaitonga/east-ridge", "name": "East Ridge", "grade": "1,I", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": "150m", "pitches": [ { "alpine": "1", "commitment": "I", "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": "150m", "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "Begin from either The Col (at the head of the Whakapapa Glacier) or Pare Col, to where the ridge narrows and steepens. Di\ufb03culties can be turned at \ufb01rst to the south and later to the north." } ], "quality": 1, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": null }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/ni/tongariro/mt-ruapehu/paretetaitonga/mangaturuturu-glacier", "name": "Mangaturuturu Glacier", "grade": "1,I", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": "150m", "pitches": [ { "alpine": "1", "commitment": "I", "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": "150m", "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "Direct up snow slopes from the glacier basin." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": null }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/ni/tongariro/mt-ruapehu/paretetaitonga/north-west-ridge", "name": "North West Ridge", "grade": "1,I", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": "450m", "pitches": [ { "alpine": "1", "commitment": "I", "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": "450m", "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "A pleasant and airy climb, high above the mountain\u2019s western slopes. Gain the ridge from above the top of the Far West T-bar on Whakapapa ski\ufb01eld." } ], "quality": 1, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": null }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/ni/tongariro/mt-ruapehu/paretetaitonga/whakapapa-face", "name": "Whakapapa Face", "grade": "1,I", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": "200m", "pitches": [ { "alpine": "1", "commitment": "I", "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": "200m", "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "Climb direct from the Whakapapa Glacier to reach the upper North West Ridge." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": null } ], "places": [], "image": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/wide/public/image/Paretetaitonga.jpg?itok=bnbPGE0O", "images": [ { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/wide/public/image/Paretetaitonga.jpg?itok=bnbPGE0O", "height": "600", "width": "900" } ] }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/ni/tongariro/mt-ruapehu/pyramid-pk", "name": "Pyramid Pk", "altitude": "2645m", "access": null, "description": "Whatever you do, don\u2019t fall into the lake!", "latlng": [ "-39.28169941", "175.56856155" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/ni/tongariro/mt-ruapehu/pyramid-pk/crater-lake-traverse", "name": "Crater Lake Traverse", "grade": "2,I", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": "2", "commitment": "I", "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "Pyramid makes a satisfying traverse, or even better, the high point of a circumnavigation around Crater Lake. It\u2019s an enjoyable adventure with close-up views of the Crater Lake \u2013 especially when it is having its small steam eruptions. The traverse is best done south to north, with a very narrow and exposed section climbing from the lake outlet over \u2018L Peak\u2019 to the summit. The 1995 eruptions made this section of the ridge easier to traverse in winter, but harder in summer. The northern ridge is also fairly exposed, but not at all di\ufb03cult. In 1971, Peter Otway and Marshal Gebbie were caught on the summit of Pyramid during an eruption and narrowly escaped being hit by ejected blocks, asphyxiated by ash and gas, and washed o\ufb00 by cascading water. Later, climbing Pyramid at Easter 1974, Dave Gobey and Chas Tanner \u2018just missed seeing DSIR scientists detonate 90 lbs gelignite 20 feet below the surface of Crater Lake at 9am\u2019." } ], "quality": 1, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": null }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/ni/tongariro/mt-ruapehu/pyramid-pk/whangaehu-faces", "name": "Whangaehu Faces", "grade": null, "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": "Great terrain lies on the steep south side of Pyramid. Easier snow slopes are\nencountered to the east. There are good short climbs (amidst a lot of loose\nrock) on the blu\ufb00s low down in the Crater Lake outlet valley.", "ascent": null } ], "places": [], "image": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/wide/public/image/Pyramid%20Traverse.jpg?itok=PzRZGbAL", "images": [ { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/wide/public/image/Pyramid%20Traverse.jpg?itok=PzRZGbAL", "height": "600", "width": "900" } ] }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/ni/tongariro/mt-ruapehu/ringatoto-pk", "name": "Ringatoto Pk", "altitude": "2591m", "access": null, "description": "The north-east face of Ringatoto dominates the view from Whangaehu Hut, providing much of the alpine atmosphere: in other words it is big, steepish, and loose. The East Ridge and North Buttress, however, are Ruapehu classics.", "latlng": [ "-39.28840918", "175.5773592" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/ni/tongariro/mt-ruapehu/ringatoto-pk/east-ridge", "name": "East Ridge", "grade": "1,I", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": "1000m", "pitches": [ { "alpine": "1", "commitment": "I", "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": "1000m", "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "This excellent climb mixes easy to moderate rock scrambling with harder cramponing (depending on the season). Some great exposure and views.\nThe route is best begun from Rangipo Hut (one hour from the Tukino Road via\nthe Round-the-Mountain track). Head up broad slopes which merge into the ridge\nproper. Follow the crest of the ridge all the way to the summit, except for one or\ntwo gendarmes that are sidled on the Wahianoa side of the ridge. Descend the\nsame way. An alternative approach from the Tukino road-end heads more or less\ndue south over the gullied terrain of the Whangaehu valley to reach the bottom of the ridge.\nContinuing from Ringatoto to the summit of Tahurangi is well worth while." } ], "quality": 1, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": null }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/ni/tongariro/mt-ruapehu/ringatoto-pk/tufa-spur", "name": "Tufa Spur", "grade": "1,I", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": "1000m", "pitches": [ { "alpine": "1", "commitment": "I", "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": "1000m", "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "A different approach to the East Ridge. From the edge of Karioi Forest, on the east\nbank of the Wahianoa River, make your way along the spur above the valley to join\nthe ridge at 2100m. Seldom climbed." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": null }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/ni/tongariro/mt-ruapehu/ringatoto-pk/east-face", "name": "East Face", "grade": "2,I", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": "600m", "pitches": [ { "alpine": "2", "commitment": "I", "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": "600m", "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "This face has been climbed in summer \u2013 but it didn\u2019t sound all that great: \u201cWork east along the shelf below the steepish lower wall then scramble up an easy gut\non the left (east) of the easternmost small waterfall. Easy, tiring, much zig-zagging\non patches of snow and crumbling rock. Not recommended\u201d (Tom Barfoot, 6 January 1973). While there is some danger on the face in warm conditions from falling ice and rock, it presents few difficulties under good snow cover." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": null }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/ni/tongariro/mt-ruapehu/ringatoto-pk/bolt-burgess-nankervis", "name": "Bolt Burgess Nankervis", "grade": "2,I", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": "450m", "pitches": [ { "alpine": "2", "commitment": "I", "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": "450m", "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "From the turn in the Whangaehu valley, climb the extreme edge of the East Face, just under the North Buttress." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Clive Bolt, Phil Burgess, John Nankervis, 9 February 1969" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/ni/tongariro/mt-ruapehu/ringatoto-pk/north-buttress", "name": "North Buttress", "grade": "2,I", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": "450m", "pitches": [ { "alpine": "2", "commitment": "I", "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": "450m", "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "Pleasantly exposed and varied mixed climbing. Start on the edge of the East Face, up to some interesting slabs to reach the ridge proper. A short steep section on the ridge, then straightforward climbing. The di\ufb03culties can be avoided by beginning up a snow couloir east of the initial tower. \u201cI have used this route to introduce North Island climbing partners to conditions other than steep snow and ice slopes. I recently climbed it with a friend to \u2018approximate\u2019 conditions on the summit rocks of Mt Cook. It\u2019s not a great substitute, but it is probably as good as one can get up here, and certainly the rock is as bad as anything at Cook.\u201d \n\u2013 Bruce van Brunt" } ], "quality": 1, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": null }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/ni/tongariro/mt-ruapehu/ringatoto-pk/upper-whangaehu-valley", "name": "From Upper Whangaehu Valley", "grade": "1,I", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": "1", "commitment": "I", "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "Access to the Mitre\u2013Tahurangi col is more di\ufb03cult since the eruptions of the mid 1990s. Take care picking a line through the steep section just below the lip. Without snow cover these slopes can be dangerously unstable." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": null }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/ni/tongariro/mt-ruapehu/ringatoto-pk/south-east-face", "name": "South East Face", "grade": "1,II", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": "900m", "pitches": [ { "alpine": "1", "commitment": "II", "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": "900m", "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "Relatively long and remote, although not much more than a snow plod. Probably best climbed in early winter, and certainly when hard, icy conditions prevail." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": null } ], "places": [], "image": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/wide/public/image/Ringatoto%20and%20Whangaehu%20Hut.jpg?itok=NO8mQCQs", "images": [ { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/wide/public/image/Ringatoto%20and%20Whangaehu%20Hut.jpg?itok=NO8mQCQs", "height": "600", "width": "900" } ] }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/ni/tongariro/mt-ruapehu/tahurangi", "name": "Tahurangi", "altitude": "2797m", "access": null, "description": "The true summit of Ruapehu, Tahurangi has a surprising range of routes on four main ridges and the intervening faces. The ridges from Ringatoto and Girdlestone are two of the best alpine routes on the mountain.", "latlng": [ "-39.28943884", "175.56263924" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/ni/tongariro/mt-ruapehu/tahurangi/crater-face", "name": "Crater Face", "grade": "2,I", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": "2", "commitment": "I", "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": null } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": "A number of lines offer different challenges. The best of the bunch, a\njustifiably classic approach, takes the most direct line to the summit. Watch\nfor falling ice and surface avalanches once the sun warms the face.", "ascent": null }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/ni/tongariro/mt-ruapehu/tahurangi/summit-col-route", "name": "Summit Col Route", "grade": "1,I", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": "1", "commitment": "I", "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": null } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": "Climb the slopes right (west) of the Crater Face, to reach the col\nimmediately west of Tahurangi. Although this is a popular route to the\nsummit, these slopes become very slushy and unstable in sunny conditions:\navalanche-prone and not at all pleasant. There are much better alternatives.\nFrom the col, the easiest route heads out across southwest slopes to the\nsouth ridge, then back to the summit, although climbing the top of the West\nRidge is better.", "ascent": null }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/ni/tongariro/mt-ruapehu/tahurangi/west-ridge", "name": "West Ridge", "grade": "1,I", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": "1", "commitment": "I", "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": null } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": "The full ridge starts from Pare Traverse and climbs over Te Ataahua. The only\nsigni\ufb01cant obstacle is a steep, often iced cli\ufb00 which can be avoided by\nsidling. Once at the summit col, climb the ridge direct to the summit \u2013 in\nsummer this is a lovely, blocky scramble.", "ascent": null }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/ni/tongariro/mt-ruapehu/tahurangi/skyline-ridge", "name": "Skyline Ridge", "grade": "1,I", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": "1", "commitment": "I", "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": null } ], "quality": 1, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": "The climbers\u2019 route of old. Best climbed in a longish day from Blyth Hut,\nat about 1370m on the bushline just o\ufb00 the Round-the-Mountain Track.\nAlternatively, from Turoa ski\ufb01eld gain the crest of the ridge as soon as\npossible (say, from the bottom of the High Flier Chairlift). Higher up you\ncan enjoy expansive views out right (east) above the Mangaehuehu Glacier\ntowards Girdlestone.\nFrom the top of the ski\ufb01eld, the summit of Tahurangi looks close. The broad\ngully directly above the ski\ufb01eld is an unappealing but strangely popular\nroute; the featureless slope gradually steepens and builds exposure to where\na short steep few metres take you on to the last few steps of the Skyline\nRidge. On a warm spring day you\u2019ll be trudging up along with many others\ntaking a break from the ski\ufb01eld.", "ascent": "First recorded ascent, George Beetham, Joseph Maxwell, February 1879" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/ni/tongariro/mt-ruapehu/tahurangi/ringatoto-ridge", "name": "Ringatoto Ridge", "grade": "1,I", "topo_ref": null, "image": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/route/Tahurangi-Ringatoto-Ridge.jpg?itok=W4yf1BSi", "images": [ { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/route/Tahurangi-Ringatoto-Ridge.jpg?itok=W4yf1BSi", "height": "217", "width": "325" } ], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": "1", "commitment": "I", "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": null } ], "quality": 1, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": "Straightforward climbing along the elegant, low angled ridge from Ringatoto.\nEspecially worthwhile when combined with the East\nRidge of Ringatoto. There are a couple of steep steps; these can be avoided\naltogether by moving out onto the upper Wahianoa Glacier.", "ascent": null }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/ni/tongariro/mt-ruapehu/tahurangi/wahianoa-glacier", "name": "Wahianoa Glacier", "grade": "1,I", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": "1", "commitment": "I", "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": null } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": "Climbing the upper n\u00e9v\u00e9 of the glacier takes you right to the top.", "ascent": null }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/ni/tongariro/mt-ruapehu/tahurangi/girdlestone%E2%80%93tahurangi-traverse", "name": "Girdlestone\u2013Tahurangi Traverse", "grade": "2,I", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": "2", "commitment": "I", "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": null } ], "quality": 1, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": "A very nice climb, in either direction, which varies in difficulty depending\non your choice of route: either over the various outcrops en route, or\nskirting them on the Wahianoa side.", "ascent": null }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/ni/tongariro/mt-ruapehu/tahurangi/mangaehuehu-headwall", "name": "Mangaehuehu Headwall", "grade": "5,I", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": "5", "commitment": "I", "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": null } ], "quality": 1, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": "A fine technical ice pitch with solid rock protection takes the obvious\nweakness in the centre of the wall. Best as an early-season winter climb.", "ascent": "Matt Quirke, Mike Peat, Kristen Foley, May 1996" } ], "places": [], "image": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/wide/public/image/Tahurangi-Crater-Face.jpg?itok=LTLjMp2I", "images": [ { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/wide/public/image/Tahurangi-Crater-Face.jpg?itok=LTLjMp2I", "height": "675", "width": "900" } ] }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/ni/tongariro/mt-ruapehu/te-ataahua", "name": "Te Ataahua", "altitude": "2757m", "access": null, "description": "This peak, Ruapehu\u2019s second highest point, is really just a bump on the ridge. It is likely most often climbed as part of a Crater Rim traverse to or from Tahurangi. Also known as Shark\u2019s Tooth, because it appears as a sharp spike from Turoa ski\ufb01eld.", "latlng": [ "-39.28625017", "175.55826187" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/ni/tongariro/mt-ruapehu/te-ataahua/crater-face", "name": "Crater Face", "grade": "2,I", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": "150m", "pitches": [ { "alpine": "2", "commitment": "I", "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": "150m", "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "Like the Crater Face of Tahurangi, this wall provokes strong differences of opinion:\ntake your pick. It\u2019s either interesting and reasonably difficult mixed climbing, or sun-damaged snow threatened by lumps of rime falling from above. In other words,\nperhaps, like a miniature east face of Aoraki." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": null }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/ni/tongariro/mt-ruapehu/te-ataahua/south-west-face", "name": "South West Face", "grade": "1,I", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": "450m", "pitches": [ { "alpine": "1", "commitment": "I", "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": "450m", "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "More or less straight up from Turoa skifield." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": null }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/ni/tongariro/mt-ruapehu/te-ataahua/north-ridge", "name": "North Ridge", "grade": "1,I", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": "150m", "pitches": [ { "alpine": "1", "commitment": "I", "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": "150m", "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "A quick scramble. Volcanically heated rocks on the lower section can make a nice place to stop for a break." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": null } ], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/ni/tongariro/mt-ruapehu/girdlestone-pk", "name": "Girdlestone Pk", "altitude": "2658m", "access": null, "description": "The most satisfying peak on the mountain, possibly. Girdlestone sits high and isolated at the south-eastern end of the massif. It has the most peak-like countenance; reasonably steep on all sides and with a range of routes to choose from. Routes on the west and south sides are best accessed from Turoa ski\ufb01eld and the Mangaehuehu Glacier. The glacier itself can have some sizeable crevasses in late summer, useful for practising extraction techniques. Routes on the eastern and southern aspects may be more easily reached from Whangaehu Hut, by crossing the col into the Wahianoa between Ringatoto and Tahurangi.", "latlng": [ "-39.29764238", "175.56740284" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/ni/tongariro/mt-ruapehu/girdlestone-pk/voie-normale", "name": "Voie Normale", "grade": "1,I", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": "250m", "pitches": [ { "alpine": "1", "commitment": "I", "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": "250m", "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "Climb to the col at the head of the Mangaehuehu Glacier. From the col, head along the ridge, usually turning any difficulties on the western side. A nice summer or winter climb." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": null }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/ni/tongariro/mt-ruapehu/girdlestone-pk/mangaehuehu-face", "name": "Mangaehuehu Face", "grade": "1,I", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": "200m", "pitches": [ { "alpine": "1", "commitment": "I", "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": "200m", "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "This route wends its way through outcrops up the face above the glacier." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": null }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/ni/tongariro/mt-ruapehu/girdlestone-pk/south-west-buttress", "name": "South West Buttress", "grade": "1,I", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": "300m", "pitches": [ { "alpine": "1", "commitment": "I", "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": "300m", "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "A prominent line with no real difficulties." } ], "quality": 1, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": null }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/ni/tongariro/mt-ruapehu/girdlestone-pk/south-face", "name": "South Face", "grade": "2,I", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": "300m", "pitches": [ { "alpine": "2", "commitment": "I", "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": "300m", "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "The southern aspects of Girdlestone are a popular choice for simple but satisfying routes, especially for practising pitched climbing. The southwestern aspects are often icier, with more rock outcrops and devious route\ufb01nding through gullies and chutes. The more open southern \ufb02ank, in contrast, has reasonably clear travel especially higher on the peak. A roundabout but straightforward route starts on the eastern side of the face and climbs in a generally clockwise direction to \ufb01nish up the Southwest Buttress." } ], "quality": 1, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": null }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/ni/tongariro/mt-ruapehu/girdlestone-pk/cumulonimbus-corner", "name": "Cumulonimbus Corner", "grade": "WI2,M3", "topo_ref": null, "image": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/route/181157.jpg?itok=50dyrlos", "images": [ { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/route/181157.jpg?itok=50dyrlos", "height": "325", "width": "244" } ], "length": "60m", "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": "WI2", "mixed": "M3", "length": "60m", "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": null } ], "quality": 1, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": "Obvious corner in the rock buttress on the South Face of Girdlestone. One 60m\nPitch. First up a rock corner with 2 more steps \\ corners of 75% ice above.\nGood rock and ice protection. Descend by traversing 60m towards the SE ridge\nto gully which may be down climbed.", "ascent": "Rob Addis, Magnus Hammarshal August 2011" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/ni/tongariro/mt-ruapehu/girdlestone-pk/south-east-buttress", "name": "South East Buttress", "grade": "12,3,II,2", "topo_ref": null, "image": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/routes/DSC_0273_1.jpg?itok=YWRGh_9B", "images": [ { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/routes/DSC_0273_1.jpg?itok=YWRGh_9B", "height": "217", "width": "325" }, { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/routes/DSC_0266_1.jpg?itok=eHU-Wos1", "height": "217", "width": "325" }, { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/routes/Start%20of%20route.jpg?itok=A-YloCk-", "height": "325", "width": "244" } ], "length": "300m", "pitches": [ { "alpine": "3", "commitment": "II", "mtcook": "2", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": "300m", "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": "12", "description": "An adventurous summer line on variable rock. There is a spectacular hole (\u2018The Window\u2019) in the lower ridge. A favourite climb of Horace Holl." } ], "quality": 1, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Horace Holl, early twentieth century" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/ni/tongariro/mt-ruapehu/girdlestone-pk/major-gully", "name": "Major Gully", "grade": "2,I", "topo_ref": "6", "image": null, "images": [], "length": "200m", "pitches": [ { "alpine": "2", "commitment": "I", "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": "200m", "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "Major gully lines head up each side of the South East Face. The left-hand gully gives straightforward climbing initially, but conditions steepen near the top." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": null }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/ni/tongariro/mt-ruapehu/girdlestone-pk/blindsight", "name": "Blindsight", "grade": "4,II", "topo_ref": "7", "image": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/route/Girdlestone_Blindsight.jpg?itok=3m-3IcG8", "images": [ { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/route/Girdlestone_Blindsight.jpg?itok=3m-3IcG8", "height": "325", "width": "244" } ], "length": "200m", "pitches": [ { "alpine": "4", "commitment": "II", "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": "200m", "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "A mixed route on the central buttress of the South East Face. Five pitches." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Travis Holman and Romaric Vincent, 2007" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/ni/tongariro/mt-ruapehu/girdlestone-pk/wake-call", "name": "Wake Up Call", "grade": "3,II", "topo_ref": "8", "image": null, "images": [], "length": "200m", "pitches": [ { "alpine": "3", "commitment": "II", "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": "200m", "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "An excellent mixed route on the central buttress of the South East Face. Five pitches." } ], "quality": 1, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Travis Holman and Graham Johnson, September 2008" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/ni/tongariro/mt-ruapehu/girdlestone-pk/minor-gully", "name": "Minor Gully", "grade": "2,I", "topo_ref": "9", "image": null, "images": [], "length": "200m", "pitches": [ { "alpine": "2", "commitment": "I", "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": "200m", "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "The steep initial step comes and goes, depending on winter snowfalls." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": null }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/ni/tongariro/mt-ruapehu/girdlestone-pk/east-buttress", "name": "East Buttress", "grade": "2,I", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": "350m", "pitches": [ { "alpine": "2", "commitment": "I", "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": "350m", "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "The somewhat intimidating buttress that leers up from the base of the Wahianoa Glacier. Has a nice, exposed aspect. Mark Prebble (who later became State Services\nCommissioner \u2014 the country\u2019s chief civil servant) is rumoured to have had an epic\nhere in the 1970s." } ], "quality": 1, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": null }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/ni/tongariro/mt-ruapehu/girdlestone-pk/east-face", "name": "East Face", "grade": "2,I", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": "250m", "pitches": [ { "alpine": "2", "commitment": "I", "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": "250m", "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "Climb straight out of the Wahianoa basin, topping out on the flat section of the North Ridge (Voie Normale), just below the summit pyramid." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": null }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/ni/tongariro/mt-ruapehu/girdlestone-pk/east-face-gully", "name": "East Face Gully", "grade": "1,I", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": "100m", "pitches": [ { "alpine": "1", "commitment": "I", "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": "100m", "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "The large gully on Girdlestone\u2019s eastern flank, leading to the low col on the\nGirdlestone\u2013Tahurangi ridge, and the beginning of the Voie Normale.\nNote that if you are crossing from the Wahianoa to the Mangaehuehu Glacier, it is better to aim for the high flat point on the ridge at about 2600m, grid ref 313092." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": null } ], "places": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/ni/tongariro/mt-ruapehu/girdlestone-pk/the-gendarme", "name": "The Gendarme", "altitude": "2600m", "access": null, "description": "The \ufb01rst and largest obstacle on the Girdlestone\u2013Tahurangi Ridge. There are three short ice routes in gullies on the southwest face (Mike Peat, Conan Bolitho, December 1989). The chimney on the Wahianoa side has probably also been climbed.", "latlng": null, "routes": [], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] } ], "image": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/wide/public/image/Girdlestone_SW.jpg?itok=WD8QVnmI", "images": [ { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/wide/public/image/Girdlestone_SW.jpg?itok=WD8QVnmI", "height": "427", "width": "640" }, { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/image/Girdlestone_SE_0.jpg?itok=-OGp21al", "height": "217", "width": "325" }, { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/image/Girdlestone_E.jpg?itok=9acpc_Ph", "height": "217", "width": "325" } ] }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/ni/tongariro/mt-ruapehu/clocktower", "name": "The Clocktower", "altitude": "2480m", "access": null, "description": "This is the rock spike on the ridge below Matihao, between the Whangaehu and Mangatoetoenui Glaciers.", "latlng": [ "-39.27571986", "175.57873249" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/ni/tongariro/mt-ruapehu/clocktower/wobbly-ticker", "name": "Wobbly Ticker", "grade": "2,I", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": "2", "commitment": "I", "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "From Whangaehu Hut, follow the ridge between the Whangaehu and\nMangatoetoenui Glaciers. The last step on the south side can be tricky. It\u2019s also possible to reach the tower by cutting around and up snow slopes on the Mangatoetoenui side of the ridge." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": null } ], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] } ], "image": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/wide/public/image/Mt%20Ruapehu%20summit%2C%20Tongariro%20Np%2C%20Photo%20Paul%20Grimwood.jpg?itok=hMF-xNKh", "images": [ { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/wide/public/image/Mt%20Ruapehu%20summit%2C%20Tongariro%20Np%2C%20Photo%20Paul%20Grimwood.jpg?itok=hMF-xNKh", "height": "596", "width": "900" } ] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki/fox-glacier-te-moeka-o-tuawe/mt-humdinger": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki/fox-glacier-te-moeka-o-tuawe/mt-humdinger", "name": "Mt Humdinger", "altitude": "2796m", "access": null, "description": "From the col with Grey Peak it is an easy ascent.\nThe rock on the western slopes offers pleasant climbing. The first ascent from this direction was by Frank Alack, H K Douglas, W E Wilson, Dec 1934.", "latlng": [ "-43.55252937", "170.1844883" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki/fox-glacier-te-moeka-o-tuawe/mt-humdinger/north-west-rib", "name": "North West Rib", "grade": "14,3", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "3", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": "14", "description": "The North West Rib provides 150m of sound rock climbing on red rock" } ], "quality": 1, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Ian Whitehouse, Brin Williman, Dec 1971." }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki/fox-glacier-te-moeka-o-tuawe/mt-humdinger/red-planet", "name": "Red Planet", "grade": "20", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": true, "ewbank": "19", "description": "The route takes a direct line towards & through the red pillar that leads through the roofs on the left hand side.\r\nStart. Look for a crack that leads out of of a small alcove just to the right of the red rock. Climb past the the vertical crack out of the alcove & move onto orangr textured rock. Traverse right directly under a pink, blank peice of rock and move up to belay in a crack." }, { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": "20", "description": "Traverse left and up the slab. Move to the lefthand crack (watch the hollow flakes). Pass through the steepest ground on the right crack before moving left into a crack/ corner belay." }, { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": "20", "description": "Step right onto the pillarand climb through techical ground heading first left then right & up to belay in cracks." }, { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": "18", "description": "climb up the dark coloured groove to the base of a clean left facing corner & big belay ledge." }, { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": "16", "description": "Climb the corner & belay above the top of the tower." }, { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": "14", "description": "Trend left & towards the left side of the hole/ cave above the belay just beyond this." }, { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": "14", "description": "Climb up to the ledge." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": true, "description": null, "ascent": "Stefan Sporli & Jude Spancken. Dec 2011" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki/fox-glacier-te-moeka-o-tuawe/mt-humdinger/kahu", "name": "Kahu", "grade": "21", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": true, "ewbank": "18", "description": "The route take the right side of the face and passes through the roof on the Rh-Side of the rectangular feature on it.\r\nClimb the crack & belay under the Lh-facing corner." }, { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": "21", "description": "Climb the triple cracks & the Lh- facing corner. From the top of the tower step left & climb through the bulge." }, { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": "17", "description": "Climb up, then right to gain the Lh-trending ramp. Follow this then climb the chimney before breaking left past the orange block." }, { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": "17", "description": "Follow the break left, then head right & up onto clean orange rock.\r\nBelay on a flat spot." }, { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": "14", "description": "Climb up on easy ground heading right of the big hole/ cave above." }, { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": "14", "description": "Follow the Rh- Trending breakto the top of the light coloured headwall & find a bolted rap anchor." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": true, "description": null, "ascent": "Stefan Sporli & Jude Spancken. Dec 2011" } ], "places": [], "image": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/wide/public/image/Humdinger%2520topo%2520print%25202.jpg?itok=CRnvpYYO", "images": [ { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/wide/public/image/Humdinger%2520topo%2520print%25202.jpg?itok=CRnvpYYO", "height": "900", "width": "675" } ] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki/main-divide/mt-spencer": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki/main-divide/mt-spencer", "name": "Mt Spencer", "altitude": "2788m", "access": null, "description": "The main Divide ridges of Spencer, especially the south ridge, are notoriously rotten. The western aspects are comprised of excellent rock, however, and the South West Face offers plenty of scope for winter/spring ice routes.", "latlng": [ "-43.41355886", "170.2562971" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki/main-divide/mt-spencer/tasman-glacier", "name": "From the Tasman Glacier", "grade": "3", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "3", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "A route lies up the icefalls well north of the Grant Duff Glacier and then up a rib of steep shattered rock and snow directly to the summit. The rock on the Main Divide is notoriously loose in this area." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Tim Barfoot, John Luxton, Richard Tornquist, Jan 1962." }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki/main-divide/mt-spencer/north-ridge", "name": "North Ridge", "grade": "1+", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "1+", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "Ascend a mixture of good and bad rock just west of the northern Divide ridge. It is usually covered by snow through to mid-summer and serves as a good descent route (but watch the schrund)." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Ebenezer Teichelmann, Alex Graham, Mar 1914." }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki/main-divide/mt-spencer/north-west-ridge", "name": "North West Ridge", "grade": "2+", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "2+", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "The ridge rises steeply from the Franz Josef N\u00e9v\u00e9 with good rock and then eases back and leads up to the summit." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Frank Alack, H K Douglas, Jan 1936." }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki/main-divide/mt-spencer/north-west-ridge-variant", "name": "North West Ridge (Variant)", "grade": "15,2+", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "2+", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": "15", "description": "A variation to the North West Ridge: climb the face to the right. The first pitch and a half is straightforward and is followed by five pitches of 14-15 on good rock, to where it meets the NW Ridge. Some small roofs provide the cruxes." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Carol Nash, K Longhurst, Feb 1986." }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki/main-divide/mt-spencer/north-west-pinnacle", "name": "North West Pinnacle", "grade": "4-", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "4-", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "Between the North West Ridge and the West Buttress is a steep rib of excellent rock ending in a small pinnacle." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Carol McDermott, Craig Stobo, Jan 1985." }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki/main-divide/mt-spencer/first-light", "name": "First Light", "grade": "II,4", "topo_ref": null, "image": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/route/Spencer-West-Face.jpg?itok=f4GSwSJ_", "images": [ { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/route/Spencer-West-Face.jpg?itok=f4GSwSJ_", "height": "217", "width": "325" }, { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/route/_DSC8271.jpg?itok=lK_kvvpi", "height": "217", "width": "325" } ], "length": "300m", "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": "II", "mtcook": "4", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": "300m", "bolts": null, "trad": true, "ewbank": null, "description": "Climbs the obvious gully between the NW Pinnacle and the West Buttress on good ice. A steepening finale." } ], "quality": 1, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": true, "description": "P1: Climb the snow ramp, pitching can begin out of the schrund. Up steep\nbulge then right leaning ice ramp over second bulge.\nP2: Series of bulges leading to open snow gully\nP3: Snow gully leading to right leaning steeper ice\nP4: Two steeper bulges\nP5: (Crux) Straight up narrowing ice lead. Some rock pro on either side, and\nmixed feel to the moves and placements (.4 cam, slings and medium nut)\nThe route and summit catches the sun by midday and hang fire can be a problem\non descent if rappelling the route.", "ascent": "Jon Tyler, Gavin Lang, 22/09/2016" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki/main-divide/mt-spencer/west-buttress", "name": "West Buttress", "grade": "15,4-", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "4-", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": "15", "description": "A relatively long but not especially difficult route, on excellent quality and steep rock, which leads directly to the summit" } ], "quality": 1, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Phil Castle, Phil Grover, Jan 1981." } ], "places": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/main-divide-of-the-southern-alps/mt-spencer/south-west-face", "name": "South West Face", "altitude": null, "access": null, "description": "From the Davis Snowfeild", "latlng": null, "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/main-divide-of-the-southern-alps/mt-spencer/south-west-face/acid-punch", "name": "Acid Punch", "grade": "4+", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "4+", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "An ice route that follows the gully immediately to the right of the West Buttress. It arrives on the summit ridge 10m west of the summit. Roughly four pitches (the first two can be thin, depending on ice coverage). Best in winter/spring." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Anjali Pande, Alex Palman, Sep 2000." }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/main-divide-of-the-southern-alps/mt-spencer/south-west-face/jungle-drums-south-west-buttress", "name": "Jungle Drums (South West Buttress)", "grade": "16,4", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "4", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": "16", "description": "This route is situated just right of the West Buttress and follows nine pitches (crux 16) of excellent rock." } ], "quality": 1, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Peter Taw, Alistair Byron, Feb 1989." }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/main-divide-of-the-southern-alps/mt-spencer/south-west-face/pitch-black", "name": "Pitch Black", "grade": "4+", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "4+", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "Takes the second narrow ice gully about 30m right of the Jungle Drums Buttress. The climb arrives on a col 20m east of the summit. Descend gullies to the north (North Ridge is recomended). Again, good in winter/spring." } ], "quality": 1, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "James Wright, Alex Palman, Sep 2000." } ], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] } ], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/canterbury-westland-alps/arrowsmith-range/mt-arrowsmith": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/canterbury-westland-alps/arrowsmith-range/mt-arrowsmith", "name": "Mt Arrowsmith", "altitude": "2781m", "access": null, "description": "Mt Arrowsmith was first climbed by Hugh Wright and Jim Murphy in February 1912. They climbed from the Lawrence Valley but, initially mistaking Couloir Peak for Mt Arrowsmith, they ended up a considerable distance north of their goal. They managed to climb Mt Arrowsmith after traversing from near Couloir Peak and climbing the North Ridge to the summit.", "latlng": [ "-43.35676792", "170.97779904" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/canterbury/arrowsmith-range/mt-arrowsmith/lawrence-valley", "name": "From Lawrence Valley", "grade": "2", "topo_ref": "LV", "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "2", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "This is perhaps the least technical route on Mt Arrowsmith. Most parties reach the head of\r\nMoses Creek via Moses Rock, a domed bluff sitting on the true left of the creek. Moses Rock\r\ncan be reached from the Lawrence Valley via various routes, but most commonly by following a\r\nscree gully immediately south of a patch of scrub about 1250 metres south of the creek draining\r\nthe south side of Moses Rock. Aim for Pt 1646 metres, then traverse north to the flat plateau\r\nabove Moses Rock. From here, climb the glacier at the head of Moses Creek. The upper section\r\nof glacier can be reached by either a steep snow ramp (a rock step with rock fall late in the\r\nseason) or by climbing to a small col on the ridge south-east of Pt 2319 metres. Once at the col,\r\ndrop northwards over the ridge to sidle around the steep, lower part of the ridge, then head eastwards\r\nonto the crest of the rock ridge and from here gain the upper glacier. The upper glacier\r\nprovides access to various gullies and loose rock ribs which lead to the North and South ridges\r\nof Arrowsmith. Follow the ridge (exposed in places) for the final few metres to the summit." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Doug Brough, Rod Hewitt, April 1934" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/canterbury/arrowsmith-range/mt-arrowsmith/south-west-ridge", "name": "South West Ridge", "grade": "2", "topo_ref": "SWR", "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "2", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "The South West Ridge can be traversed from Ashburton Peak to the summit, turning two gendarmes\r\non the Lawrence side. Alternatively, the ridge can be reached directly from the Hakatere\r\nRiver via snow slopes and small glaciers." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Evan Wilson, Jim Wilson, Andy Anderson, January 1931" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/canterbury/arrowsmith-range/mt-arrowsmith/ashburton-face", "name": "Ashburton Face", "grade": "3+", "topo_ref": "AF", "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "3+", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "This is a snow and ice climb up a broad snow face followed by one of a number of gullies to the\r\nsummit of Mt Arrowsmith. From the moraines at the head of the Hakatere River climb to the\r\nschrund at the bottom of the Ashburton Face. Climb a short, steep section alongside a steep\r\nrock rib to gain the slope above. Climb until a small ar\u00eate is reached, and from here either go left\r\nto snow slopes and gullies that join the South West Ridge, or head up steeper rock directly to\r\nthe summit. Usually in condition only from late winter to early summer, and subject to rock fall." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Don Cowie, Jim Clark, November 1958" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/canterbury/arrowsmith-range/mt-arrowsmith/thompsons-track", "name": "Thompsons Track", "grade": "3", "topo_ref": "TT", "image": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/route/Thompsons%20Track.jpg?itok=chfTiG4B", "images": [ { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/route/Thompsons%20Track.jpg?itok=chfTiG4B", "height": "244", "width": "325" } ], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "3", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": null } ], "quality": 1, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": "Right-hand side of Ashburton Face. Snow and ice climb with several short\nmixed sections. FA: unknown. Kyle Walters, Michael Eatson October 2018.", "ascent": null }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/canterbury/arrowsmith-range/mt-arrowsmith/east-ridge", "name": "East Ridge", "grade": "3+", "topo_ref": "ER", "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "3+", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "A long route when attempted via East Horn, the first half of which is on poor rock. Alternatively,\r\nreach the ridge via the South Cameron Glacier, climbing steep snow slopes to a col of rotten\r\nrock on the East Ridge. A schrund 60\u201370 metres below the col may be passed on rock on the\r\nleft. Climb along the narrow ridge crest to reach the big outlier to the east of Mt Arrowsmith.\r\nClimb the outlier on a wall of good rock, then scramble down and along the ridge on loose rock\r\nto a rotten, narrow col. From here a steep section of friable rock leads to solid slabs and cracks\r\nand then up three rock steps to the summit." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Jack Pattle, Bob Watson, February 1954" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/canterbury/arrowsmith-range/mt-arrowsmith/methven-landsar", "name": "Methven LandSAR", "grade": "17,4", "topo_ref": "MLS", "image": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/route/Outlier%20Pk_0.png?itok=Veghzw9f", "images": [ { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/route/Outlier%20Pk_0.png?itok=Veghzw9f", "height": "244", "width": "325" } ], "length": "250m", "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "4", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": "250m", "bolts": null, "trad": true, "ewbank": "17", "description": null } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": true, "description": "Start right of central slabs, up crack system through groove, trend right to\nleft facing corner. 5 pitches on reasonable quality rock with good\nprotection. Descended via East Ridge", "ascent": "Tawny Wagstaff, Michael Eatson. May 2015" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/canterbury/arrowsmith-range/mt-arrowsmith/cameron-buttress", "name": "Cameron Buttress", "grade": "14,4-", "topo_ref": "CB", "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "4-", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": "14", "description": "This route follows a series of good rock slabs, with two pitches up to grade 14, on the prominent\r\nrock rib rising out of the South Cameron Glacier. Climb the second buttress, avoiding the toe\r\nof the ridge, and top out on the main outlying peak on the East Ridge. This route provides good\r\naccess to the best (final) part of the East Ridge." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Mike Perry, Dave Bouchier, March 1975 (to eastern outlier) ; Rick Burn, 1976 (to the summit)" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/canterbury/arrowsmith-range/mt-arrowsmith/cameron-spur", "name": "Cameron Spur", "grade": "16,4", "topo_ref": "CS", "image": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/route/toe%20direct.png?itok=pQwS_evu", "images": [ { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/route/toe%20direct.png?itok=pQwS_evu", "height": "244", "width": "325" } ], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "4", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": "16", "description": "Follow the spur for approximately 6 pitches until you meet up with the original Cameron Buttress Route." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": "Scramble first 100m until you get to a short crux of possibly grade 16, then\npitches ranging from 10-14 until meeting up with the Cameron Buttress route.", "ascent": "Manfred Ingerfeld, Ian Crozier April 1980, ascent to summit completed via cameron Buttress and East ridge" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/canterbury/arrowsmith-range/mt-arrowsmith/central-couloir", "name": "Central Couloir", "grade": "3-", "topo_ref": "CC", "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "3-", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "This is a direct route from the South Cameron Glacier that follows the main couloir to the\r\nsummit. It was the original descent route but is now the most common route to the summit.\r\nIn good snow conditions the climb is straightforward, but if snow is thin at least two major\r\nrock steps may need to be negotiated, usually on the broad ledges and short walls to the right\r\nof the couloir, and this will increase the grade of the climb. Once on the summit ridge scramble\r\naround on the Lawrence side to the summit. The couloir is prone to bombardment from rock\r\nand ice debris and usually is not a late season route. A second couloir, 200 metres further north\r\nalong the ridge, is also useable." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Tom Newth, Syd Brookes, Arthur Lees (descended), March 1937" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/canterbury/arrowsmith-range/mt-arrowsmith/north-ridge", "name": "North Ridge", "grade": "2", "topo_ref": "NR", "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "2", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "From the South Cameron Glacier follow moderate slopes, which lead to at least two snow gullies\r\nthat provide access to the North Ridge. Scramble along the pinnacled ridge turning the last\r\ngendarmes on easy ledges on the Lawrence side." }, { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "The full North Ridge can be reached from Cameron Col and involves a long day\u2019s scrambling,\r\nexposed in places. Initially good progress can be made on the Lawrence side, but once forced\r\nonto the ridge the numerous towers are time consuming." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Tom Newth, Syd Brookes, Arthur Lees, March 1937" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/canterbury/arrowsmith-range/mt-arrowsmith/outlier", "name": "The Outlier", "grade": "19,4", "topo_ref": null, "image": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/route/The%20Outlier.png?itok=jW0eKsY-", "images": [ { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/route/The%20Outlier.png?itok=jW0eKsY-", "height": "218", "width": "325" }, { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/route/20160122_120935.jpg?itok=qC0iMGIu", "height": "325", "width": "270" } ], "length": "350m", "pitches": [ { "alpine": "4", "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": "350m", "bolts": null, "trad": true, "ewbank": "19", "description": null } ], "quality": 2, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": true, "description": "Ascends the East Face of Outlier Peak on compact sandstone with excellent\nprotection. Six pitches plus scrambling. Crossing the bergschrund at the base\nof route can be problematic.\nPitch:\n\n\n(19, 20m) Ascends prominent crack system immediately right of large roof.\nClimb overhanging corner to ledge. Make large traverse left underneath roof\nto pillar (micro-cams). Ascend open book corner to belay ledge (Camalot #4).\n\n\n(18, 50m) Up open book, right facing corner, through small roof and onto\nslab. Traverse slightly right and through the overlap. Continue up easing\nground to belay.\n\n\n(12, 70m) Scramble easy ground, trending left to large ledge with snow.\n\n\n(17, 50m) Steep (hand to fist) crack through several bulges to good\nledges.\n\n\n(10, 80m) Scramble easy terrain, trending left belay at base of prominent\nsummit headwall.\n\n\n(14, 80m) Crack systems on left side of summit buttress, deteriorating\nrock quality.\n\n\nDescent: Via the Cameron Buttress Route to the large saddle (1x 30m Rappel).\nDownclimb (upto grade 10) slabs to the top of the 4th pitch. 1x 15m and 1x\n30m rappel to the snow covered ledge.", "ascent": "Tawny Wagstaff, Michael Eatson. January 2016" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/canterbury/arrowsmith-range/mt-arrowsmith/three-steps-methven", "name": "Three Steps to Methven", "grade": "18", "topo_ref": null, "image": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/route/DSC00350.png?itok=dIibRfU9", "images": [ { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/route/DSC00350.png?itok=dIibRfU9", "height": "186", "width": "325" }, { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/route/Methven.png?itok=BN7EyVXj", "height": "217", "width": "325" } ], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": true, "ewbank": "18", "description": null } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": true, "description": "Starts directly beneath large overhangs.\nPitch:\n\n\n(17, 50m) Follows obvious right trending flake system to a large ledge.\nFirst 5 meters is loose and dusty but the protection is solid.\n\n\n(18, 45m) Pull through steep bulge off the ledge and trend left up corner\nto a ledge. Continues directly up left facing corner (ballnuts, microcams)\nusing small incut edges. Glorious committing climbing.\n\n\n(15, 50m). A long left-traversing exploratory pitch, before reaching a\nsmall overlap with a good belay ledge above. Plenty of scope for variation.\n\n\n(14, 30m) Straight up corner, gradually easing to scrambling.\n\n\nProtection: Excellent: Camalots (#00- #4), 1 set of Wires. Ball-nuts (1 & 2).\n2x 55m ropes.\nDescent: 4 rappels (upto 55m), all bollards. Used approximately 6 meters of\ncordelette.", "ascent": "Tawny Wagstaff, Laudi Olijve, Michael Eatson. Feb 2016." }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/canterbury/arrowsmith-range/mt-arrowsmith/methven-dread", "name": "Methven Dread", "grade": "16", "topo_ref": null, "image": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/route/methven%20dread_0.png?itok=TiCPx4p5", "images": [ { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/route/methven%20dread_0.png?itok=TiCPx4p5", "height": "186", "width": "325" }, { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/route/DSC01278.jpg?itok=70txg0Yf", "height": "325", "width": "259" } ], "length": "195m", "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": "50m", "bolts": null, "trad": true, "ewbank": "16", "description": "Climb out of the 'schrund up left facing corner to obvious hand crack on face. Step right around corner at horizontal feature, then back left to avoid roof. Belay in diagonal groove." }, { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": "45m", "bolts": null, "trad": true, "ewbank": "16", "description": "Continue along grove aiming for the top right corner of roof to belay." }, { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": "40m", "bolts": null, "trad": true, "ewbank": "14", "description": "Through roof onto face and up to belay in large blocky corner." }, { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": "60m", "bolts": null, "trad": true, "ewbank": "15", "description": "Follow prow to the top." } ], "quality": 2, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": true, "description": "A good route and much easier than initially expected. Starts left of the central slabs. Plenty of variation exists.", "ascent": "Michael Eatson, Tawny Wagstaff, Trev Ponting, April 2016" } ], "places": [], "image": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/wide/public/image/Arrowsmith_0.png?itok=xeUA-H0R", "images": [ { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/wide/public/image/Arrowsmith_0.png?itok=xeUA-H0R", "height": "650", "width": "876" }, { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/image/Arrowsmith1_0.png?itok=NCNhhWt0", "height": "219", "width": "325" }, { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/image/Arrowsmith2_1.png?itok=UOD8OL9o", "height": "215", "width": "325" } ] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki/main-divide/footstool": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki/main-divide/footstool", "name": "The Footstool", "altitude": "2764m", "access": null, "description": null, "latlng": [ "-43.6760664", "170.06441116" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki/main-divide/footstool/requiem-dream", "name": "Requiem for a Dream", "grade": "3+,III", "topo_ref": "3.01", "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": "3+", "commitment": "III", "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": null } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": "More than a variation of Route 3.02, as the gully\nis a distinct feature. From the bergschrund at the\nbase of the east face, climb snow and ice gullies\n200m left of the main couloir. One pitch going\nleft, then three pitches going right in a series of\ngullies to reach the ridge.", "ascent": "Greg Abrahams, Euan Boyd, Steve Farrad, Florian L\u2019Hostis, Apr 2007" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki/main-divide/footstool/wombats-heat", "name": "Wombats on Heat", "grade": "3+,III", "topo_ref": "3.02", "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": "3+", "commitment": "III", "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": null } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": "Ascend a weakness through the rock band below\nthe large snowfield, then up to the Main Divide\nsouth of The Footstool. There is a variation that\nlinks snowfields to the right of the rock band.\nThis is a good alternative to the Couloir Route if\nthe bergschrund conditions are not favourable.\nDuring late summer, snow can be completely\nabsent from this face, and the rock is not\nworth climbing!", "ascent": "Michael Batchelor, Gordon Poultney, Jan 1988" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki/main-divide/footstool/couloir-route", "name": "Couloir Route", "grade": "3+,III", "topo_ref": "3.03", "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": "3+", "commitment": "III", "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": null } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": "From the Tewaewae Glacier ascend the\nprominent couloir either to the south ridge,\nor near the summit move right up an offshoot\ncouloir. The bergschrund at the base of the\ncouloir is often troublesome; this route is usually\ncut off after early summer.", "ascent": "Graeme Dingle, Jill Tremain, Jan 1967" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki/main-divide/footstool/east-ridge", "name": "East Ridge", "grade": "3-", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "3-", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "From Sefton Bivvy ascend the Stocking Glacier and cross northwards to gain the ridge where it rises from a level section. Follow the ridge directly to the summit. The rock is complete choss \u2013 avoid like the plague, unless snow covered." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Jack Clarke, Peter Graham, Henrik Sillem, Mar 1906." }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki/main-divide/footstool/main-divide", "name": "Main Divide", "grade": "2+", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "2+", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "Cross the East Ridge and work up the slopes of the Eugenie Glacier to reach the Main Divide, then follow up the north-east snowslopes to the summit. This is the regular descent route." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Tom Fyfe, George Graham, Jan 1894." }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki/main-divide/footstool/north-neve", "name": "North Neve", "grade": "2", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "2", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "A route exists from the n\u00e9v\u00e9 south of the Copland Pass and connects snowslopes on the west to reach the col north of the peak, then as for Main Divide Route . The ridge from the Copland Pass has also been traversed." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "M R Barwell, A F Reid, Feb 1953." }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki/main-divide/footstool/direct", "name": "Direct", "grade": "4,III", "topo_ref": "3.04", "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": "4", "commitment": "III", "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": null } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": "Direct\nFollow the face to the right of the Couloir Route\nvia a shallow gully.", "ascent": "Ray Button, Graeme Dingle, Jul 1979" } ], "places": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/main-divide-of-the-southern-alps/the-footstool/east-face", "name": "East Face", "altitude": null, "access": null, "description": "East face of the Footstool", "latlng": null, "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/main-divide-of-the-southern-alps/the-footstool/east-face/wombats-heat", "name": "Wombats on Heat", "grade": "3+,III,3-", "topo_ref": "3.02", "image": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/route/footstool%20-wombats.jpg?itok=lhIE1izc", "images": [ { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/route/footstool%20-wombats.jpg?itok=lhIE1izc", "height": "161", "width": "325" } ], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": "3+", "commitment": "III", "mtcook": "3-", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": null } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": "Ascend a weakness through the rock band below\nthe large snowfield, then up to the Main Divide\nsouth of The Footstool. There is a variation that\nlinks snowfields to the right of the rock band.\nThis is a good alternative to the Couloir Route if\nthe bergschrund conditions are not favourable.\nDuring late summer, snow can be completely\nabsent from this face, and the rock is not\nworth climbing!", "ascent": "Michael Batchelor, Gordon Poultney, Jan 1988." }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/main-divide-of-the-southern-alps/the-footstool/east-face/couloir-route", "name": "Couloir Route", "grade": "3-", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "3-", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "From the Stocking Glacier ascend the prominent couloir either to the ridge, or near the summit move right up an offshoot couloir. The schrund at the base of the couloir may prove troublesome late in the season." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Graeme Dingle, Jill Tremain, Jan 1967." }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/main-divide-of-the-southern-alps/the-footstool/east-face/direct", "name": "Direct", "grade": "4-", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "4-", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "Follow the face to the right of the Couloir Route via a shallow gully. 1st ascent 9 pitches." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Ray Button, Graeme Dingle, Jul 1979." }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/main-divide-of-the-southern-alps/the-footstool/east-face/three-short-ice-routes", "name": "Three short ice routes", "grade": "4-", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "4-", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "Three short ice routes have been climbed to the right of the Direct route joining the East Ridge: i) Footstolen (3+), ii) Infoleak (3+), iii) Smash n grab (4-)." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Jo Kippax, 1990." } ], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] } ], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki/fox-glacier-te-moeka-o-tuawe/mt-alack": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki/fox-glacier-te-moeka-o-tuawe/mt-alack", "name": "Mt Alack", "altitude": "2759m", "access": null, "description": "Despite being a relatively small peak, Mt Alack is fairly steep, with no simple way off. The easiest descent is to scramble/pitch down either the North West Ridge or South West Ridge. If this idea makes you squeamish, go as far down either ridge as you feel comfortable, then abseil down the West Face to the Cleves Glacier. In winter, with two ropes, abseiling the south face on V-threads is usually the best option.\nOver the years several ice routes have been climbed on the South Face. Who actually climbed them first is unclear, although most are claimed by Nick Cradock. The moderate angled snow on the far left of the face has been used many times as access to or from the South West Ridge.", "latlng": [ "-43.53983818", "170.19384384" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki/fox-glacier-te-moeka-o-tuawe/mt-alack/north-west-ridge", "name": "North West Ridge", "grade": "3,II", "topo_ref": "11.49", "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": "3", "commitment": "II", "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": null } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": "Reportedly very loose, but in a great setting and begins very close to Pioneer Hut.\nSome gullies on the south side of the lower section of Alack\u2019s North West Ridge provide fun ice and mixed climbing\u2014there are many variations.", "ascent": "Frank Alack, Harold Douglas, Bill Wilson, December 1934" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki/fox-glacier-te-moeka-o-tuawe/mt-alack/tv-slab", "name": "The TV Slab", "grade": "17", "topo_ref": "11.50", "image": null, "images": [], "length": "80m", "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": "40m", "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": "16", "description": "Pitch 1: climb 40m on good rock (grade 16) to a double bolt belay." }, { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "Scramble up loose but not obnoxious rock, past one bolt. You can use this as a runner but it was primarily placed for abseiling." }, { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": "40m", "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": "17", "description": "The TV Crack. A 40m, grade 17 hand crack that requires some bigger natural protection (#2 to #3 Camalots). Stonking. Double-bolt abseil rings at the top. Two ropes are required for abseiling off." } ], "quality": 1, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": "On the left side (looking up) of the South West Ridge of Alack, above the Cleves Glacier, is a beautiful proud slab with a prominent hand crack near the top. It gained notoriety and a name when Graeme Dingle and Murray Jones climbed it for a TV crew during the 70s. Recently, Nick Cradock added a couple of bolt belays making this a must do route.\nPitch 1: climb 40m on good rock (grade 16) to a double bolt belay. Pitch 2: scramble up loose, but not obnoxious rock, past one bolt. You can use this as a runner but it was primarily placed for abseiling. Pitch 3: the TV Crack. A 40m, grade 17 hand crack that requires some bigger natural protection (#2 to #3 Camalots). Stonking. Double-bolt abseil rings at the top. Two ropes are required for abseiling off.\nGraeme Dingle, Murray Jones, 1970", "ascent": "Graeme Dingle, Murray Jones, 1970" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki/fox-glacier-te-moeka-o-tuawe/mt-alack/south-west-ridge", "name": "South West Ridge", "grade": "3,II", "topo_ref": "11.51", "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": "3", "commitment": "II", "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": null } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": "Better rock than the North West Ridge, but still loose in places. A few parties will want a rope for some short steps. If you\u2019re tempted to descend\nby abseiling the south face, remember that it\u2019s further than it looks.", "ascent": "Lella Davidson, Alastair Duthie, Greta Stevenson, Kurt Suter, November 1933" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki/fox-glacier-te-moeka-o-tuawe/mt-alack/alack-attack", "name": "Alack Attack", "grade": "5+,III", "topo_ref": "11.52", "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": "5+", "commitment": "III", "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": null } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": "A fairly direct seven-pitch line leading to the right of the summit. The first three pitches are on the icefields and the next four are on the upper wall. A good technical climb that usually involves some mixed ground.", "ascent": "Nick Cradock, Andrew Marquis, December 1996" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki/fox-glacier-te-moeka-o-tuawe/mt-alack/southern-gully", "name": "Southern Gully", "grade": "4,III", "topo_ref": "11.53", "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": "4", "commitment": "III", "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": null } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": "Six pitches of 50\u201360 degree ice.", "ascent": "Paul Wopereis, Andy Taylor, February 1985" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki/fox-glacier-te-moeka-o-tuawe/mt-alack/sharp", "name": "Sharp", "grade": "5,III", "topo_ref": "11.54", "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": "5", "commitment": "III", "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": null } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": "A steep start followed by a 50\u201360 degree gully for a couple of pitches. After the gully steepens and curves right, take the left branch to continue straight up, finishing near the top of Southern Gully.", "ascent": null }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki/fox-glacier-te-moeka-o-tuawe/mt-alack/blunt", "name": "Blunt", "grade": "5+,III", "topo_ref": "11.55", "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": "5+", "commitment": "III", "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": null } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": "Shares its start with Sharp, but heads right, following a weakness over the buttress to join the upper pitches of Frank.", "ascent": null }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki/fox-glacier-te-moeka-o-tuawe/mt-alack/frank", "name": "Frank", "grade": "5+,III", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": "5+", "commitment": "III", "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": null } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": "Start at the base of the gully below the Alack\u2013Douglas col, but head left, parallel to Sharp. The upper mixed pitches provide the crux.", "ascent": null } ], "places": [], "image": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/wide/public/image/Mt%20Alack.jpg?itok=9l9GxQzF", "images": [ { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/wide/public/image/Mt%20Alack.jpg?itok=9l9GxQzF", "height": "688", "width": "1090" } ] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki/fox-glacier-te-moeka-o-tuawe/mt-mallory": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki/fox-glacier-te-moeka-o-tuawe/mt-mallory", "name": "Mt Mallory", "altitude": "2756m", "access": null, "description": "Southern Alps Ka Tiritiri O Te Moana", "latlng": [ "-43.524197", "170.20577" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki/fox-glacier-te-moeka-o-tuawe/mt-mallory/franz-josef", "name": "From the Franz Josef", "grade": "2", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "2", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "The snow ramp from the Franz Josef side, involves some rock near the summit." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "E Sealy, I Johnson, David Lewis, J T Holloway, Jan 1937." } ], "places": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki/fox-glacier-te-moeka-o-tuawe/mt-mallory/south-face", "name": "South Face", "altitude": null, "access": null, "description": "From the Explorer Glacier", "latlng": null, "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki/fox-glacier-te-moeka-o-tuawe/mt-mallory/south-face/homeowners", "name": "The Homeowners", "grade": null, "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "Tackles a wee vertical ice step on the extreme left of the face just left of the start to Noel, then curls it's way up moderate ground to the ridge. Good descent down a gulley just to the left." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Allan Uren, Craig Cardie, and Jeff Richards. July 2003." }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki/fox-glacier-te-moeka-o-tuawe/mt-mallory/south-face/noel", "name": "Noel", "grade": null, "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "Noel Takes the buttress left of the Irvine gash. Climbed as a mixed route." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Brian Alder, Tony Donaldson,and Allan Uren October 2003" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki/fox-glacier-te-moeka-o-tuawe/mt-mallory/south-face/irvine", "name": "Irvine", "grade": "5-,WI5", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "5-", "aid": null, "ice": "WI5", "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "A deep five pitch chimney left of centre. At the top sneak around to the left to avoid the overhang. Descend the gully left of the face (one rap at the bottom). (Alpine Ice 4+)." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Nick Cradock, Dave Vass, Oct 1996." }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki/fox-glacier-te-moeka-o-tuawe/mt-mallory/south-face/left-side", "name": "Left Side", "grade": "4", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "4", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "A seven pitch mixed route on the left side of the face." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "John Entwisle, Ross Clapcott, Gerry Kennedy, Fiona Mackenzie, Trevor Streat, Nick Cradock, Dec 1990." }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki/fox-glacier-te-moeka-o-tuawe/mt-mallory/south-face/balcony-line", "name": "The Balcony Line", "grade": "4+", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "4+", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "Immediately right of the main rock buttress. The route lies directly under the summit. The first few pitches are relatively straightforward but steeper ground (up to 80o), including chandeliers, above provides the crux. Continue up the obvious line to the crest of the west ridge below the summit. Rappel down the Franz side on good rock bollards to a snow slope (beware of snow conditions in spring). Seven pitches." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Bruce Hasler, Dean Staples, Tarn Pilkington, Oct 1996." }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki/fox-glacier-te-moeka-o-tuawe/mt-mallory/south-face/thing", "name": "The Thing", "grade": "4+,WI4", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "4+", "aid": null, "ice": "WI4", "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "Direct to the left summit. Similar in difficulty to Douglas Peak (L. Couloir), but with more continuous steepness and less slogging. A five star route according to the first ascent team. Seven pitches. (Alpine Ice 4)." } ], "quality": 1, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Nick Cradock, Matt Wilkinson, S Hall, Dec 1990." }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki/fox-glacier-te-moeka-o-tuawe/mt-mallory/south-face/ruth-breitinger", "name": "Ruth/ Breitinger", "grade": "5-", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "5-", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "Seven pitches of ice up to 85o (descended north gully)." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "M Ruth, E Breitinger, Nov 1993." }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki/fox-glacier-te-moeka-o-tuawe/mt-mallory/south-face/right-side", "name": "Right Side", "grade": "3+,WI3", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "3+", "aid": null, "ice": "WI3", "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "Seven pitches. Descend into the Franz (one rap) or rap the route. (Alpine Ice 3)." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Nick Cradock and others from a guides course, 1993." } ], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] } ], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki/liebig-range/nuns-veil": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki/liebig-range/nuns-veil", "name": "The Nuns Veil", "altitude": "2749m", "access": null, "description": "Liebig Range", "latlng": [ "-43.69362818", "170.24799952" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki/liebig-range/nuns-veil/turners-couloir", "name": "Turner's Couloir", "grade": "2-", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "2-", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "Catch the boat up the lake and then cross the Murchison River. Alternatively, cross the Tasman Glacier and then deal with the Murchison River. Ascend an unnamed creek to the prominent couloir leading up between Nun\u2019s Veil and Mt Biretta. From the top of couloir climb a rock ridge to the summit." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "George Bannister, Samuel Turner, Feb 1912 (Descended)" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki/liebig-range/nuns-veil/unveiled", "name": "Unveiled", "grade": "20,4+", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "4+", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": "20", "description": "Takes the central buttress on the West Face. Head up the groove on the left hand side of the face, continue past two rock bands (top one may be snow filled), then tend left into a gully leading to the top. The route involves 900m of climbing, compact pink slabs, chimneys, scrambling and one crux pitch of grade 20." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Sean Waters, Tim Balla, Mar 1996" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki/liebig-range/nuns-veil/gorilla-stream-route", "name": "Gorilla Stream Route", "grade": "1+", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "1+", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "Catch the boat to the south-eastern side of the lake and travel south to Gorilla Stream, some parties have crossed the Tasman River near to Gorilla Stream \u2013 but this may not be possible in summer). Follow Gorilla Stream and ascend easily up the glacier to the summit. The last bit to the top is a bit exposed. The top offers a glorious viewpoint. At the head of Gorilla Stream a bivvy rock offers a small amount of protection (take a fly to add to it). From the lake to the bivvy rock allow ~6hrs." } ], "quality": 1, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Peter Graham, Mick Collett, Dr Mackay, 1905" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki/liebig-range/nuns-veil/pinnacle-stream-route", "name": "Pinnacle Stream Route", "grade": null, "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "Use the Jollie River, then Pinnacle Stream." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "C S Brockett, S J Harris, N D Dench, Jan 1953" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki/liebig-range/nuns-veil/after-thought", "name": "After Thought", "grade": "19,5+,III", "topo_ref": null, "image": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/routes/Nuns.jpg?itok=jsagioRu", "images": [ { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/routes/Nuns.jpg?itok=jsagioRu", "height": "183", "width": "325" } ], "length": "500m", "pitches": [ { "alpine": "5+", "commitment": "III", "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": "500m", "bolts": null, "trad": true, "ewbank": "19", "description": null } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": true, "description": "Super rock one loose section in middle of face. Head up center buttress to the impressive head wall. 10 pitches, Crux 19. One pitch with super hand jams.\nClimbs to spot height 2520 South of Nuns Veil.", "ascent": null } ], "places": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki/liebig-range/nuns-veil/east-face", "name": "East Face", "altitude": null, "access": null, "description": "East Face of The Nuns Veil", "latlng": null, "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki/liebig-range/nuns-veil/east-face/the-far-side", "name": "The Far Side", "grade": "16,5", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "5", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": "16", "description": "Takes the central buttress of the East Face, following 700m of quality rock (16 pitches) with a crux of 16. A route that requires commitment. The first ascent team descended Turners Couloir." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Kiersten Price, Dave Crow, April 1995" } ], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki/liebig-range/nuns-veil/west-face", "name": "West Face", "altitude": null, "access": null, "description": null, "latlng": null, "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki/liebig-range/nuns-veil/west-face/after-thought", "name": "After Thought", "grade": "19,5+", "topo_ref": null, "image": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/routes/Nuns_1.jpg?itok=LUwymdof", "images": [ { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/routes/Nuns_1.jpg?itok=LUwymdof", "height": "183", "width": "325" } ], "length": "500m", "pitches": [ { "alpine": "5+", "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": "500m", "bolts": null, "trad": true, "ewbank": "19", "description": null } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": true, "description": "Super rock quality. There is one loose section in middle of face. Head up center buttress to the impressive head wall. 10 pitches, Crux 19. One pitch with great hand jams.\nClimbs to spot height 2520 South of Nuns Veil.\nDescend to the South on the Eastern side of ridge then to the west down the col.", "ascent": "Asher March, Ed Sheppard Dec 2017" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki/liebig-range/nuns-veil/west-face/five-o%E2%80%99clock-shadow", "name": "Five O\u2019Clock Shadow", "grade": "16", "topo_ref": null, "image": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/routes/Nuns_2.jpg?itok=V3bgLtcW", "images": [ { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/routes/Nuns_2.jpg?itok=V3bgLtcW", "height": "183", "width": "325" } ], "length": "150m", "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": "150m", "bolts": null, "trad": true, "ewbank": "16", "description": null } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": true, "description": "Head up the face trending slightly right to summit on Pt 2285. Descend the gully north of the summit. Great rock quality.", "ascent": "Asher March, Ed Sheppard, December 2017" } ], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] } ], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki/main-divide/mt-burns": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki/main-divide/mt-burns", "name": "Mt Burns", "altitude": "2746m", "access": null, "description": null, "latlng": [ "-43.74553598", "169.98475812" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki/main-divide/mt-burns/watchtower-south-west-ridge", "name": "Watchtower (South West) Ridge", "grade": "3+", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "3+", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "Gain the ridge from the upper Mueller Glacier north of the Watchtower (a prominent knob near Fyfe Pass was first climbed by Otto Frind and Conrad Kain in Feb 1914) via a short face climb. The upper ridge is complicated by awkward slanting rock. The rock steps can be best turned on the slabby western face. The eastern side tends to be rotten." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "H T Barcham, Ash Cunningham, A Witten-Hannah, December 1952" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki/main-divide/mt-burns/south-face", "name": "South Face", "grade": "3+", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "3+", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "From the Welchman Glacier ascend the obvious ramp which angles from left to right directly under the summit. Finish up the rock rib to the summit." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Brian Weedon, Richard Schmidt, April 1980;" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki/main-divide/mt-burns/welchman-glacier-route", "name": "Welchman Glacier Route", "grade": "2", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "2", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "Ascend the glacier and up a couloir (sometimes cornice threatened) to an unnamed col. Then either follow the Main Divide to the summit or drop down onto the western slopes and ascend from there. It is also possible to cross to Bernard Col from the Welchman Glacier, but it is a longer climb. The Welchman Glacier route is the best means of descent from Mt Burns. Three or more abseils may be necessary to descend over a cornice at the top. (Bernard Col may present similar problems.)" } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Peter Graham, Samuel Turner, March 1914" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki/main-divide/mt-burns/mckerrow-face", "name": "McKerrow Face", "grade": "2+", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "2+", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": null } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": "Mt Burns is the highest peak between Mts Sefton and Aspiring. Beginning from\nthe McKerrow Glacier, crampon up the west face directly to the summit. A\nsuperb viewpoint as the Mueller, Dobson, Landsborough, Karangarua and Douglas\nValleys radiate from the peak.", "ascent": "Bernard Head, Peter Graham, Darby Thomson, Lawrence Earle, Jack Clarke, Alec Graham, 1909" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki/main-divide/mt-burns/north-west-ridge", "name": "North- West Ridge", "grade": null, "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "We\u2019d expected the serrated rock crest of the upper ridge \u2013 with three prominent steps \u2013 to be the crux of the route, but just below the first rock step we discovered a snow slope on the north side of the ridge which appeared to offer an easy route all the way around the rock steps. This was partly disappointing, as the ridge crest itself would have made an impressive climb. A nor\u2019wester was forecast to develop that afternoon however, so we decided to take the fast route and abseiled 20 metres onto the snow slope." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Rob Frost and Kieran Parsons, December 2013" } ], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki/main-divide/mt-rudolf": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki/main-divide/mt-rudolf", "name": "Mt Rudolf", "altitude": "2743m", "access": null, "description": "Both Main Divide ridges provide relatively easy scrambling.\nPeter Graham, M Graham, Jan 1914.", "latlng": [ "-43.51002376", "170.2538492" ], "routes": [], "places": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/main-divide-of-the-southern-alps/mt-rudolf/west-face", "name": "West Face", "altitude": null, "access": null, "description": "West Face", "latlng": null, "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/main-divide-of-the-southern-alps/mt-rudolf/west-face/dawes-mcinnes-buttress", "name": "Dawes-McInnes Buttress", "grade": "3", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "3", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "From the Franz Josef N\u00e9v\u00e9 follow directly up the centre of the face to the summit." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Hamish Maclnnes, D Dawe, May 1955." }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/main-divide-of-the-southern-alps/mt-rudolf/west-face/nice-affair", "name": "A Nice Affair", "grade": "3", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "3", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "Ascend ice right of the Dawes-Mclnnes buttress. Using a small corner just right of the direct line to the summit (not the big corner on the right of the face). When the small corner, offering 70\u00ba ice, runs out, break left through a short step. Continue up snowfield to summit. Descend to the north via two steep rappels to the n\u00e9v\u00e9." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Don French, September 1994" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/main-divide-of-the-southern-alps/mt-rudolf/west-face/big-day-out", "name": "Big Day Out", "grade": "3", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "3", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "A line right of the Big Day Out route. Descend the North East Ridge." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "First ascent party unknown, June 1997" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/main-divide-of-the-southern-alps/mt-rudolf/west-face/right-gully", "name": "Right Gully", "grade": "3+", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "3+", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "An obvious gully to the right of Rudolf provides an enjoyable ice climb in spring/winter. It joins the Main Divide approximately 200m south of the summit. A cruisy half-day option." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "First ascent unknown" } ], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] } ], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/darrans/darran-mountains/mt-tutoko": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/darrans/darran-mountains/mt-tutoko", "name": "Mt Tutoko", "altitude": "2723m", "access": null, "description": null, "latlng": [ "-44.59487273", "168.0121113" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/darrans/darran-mountains/mt-tutoko/south-east-ridge", "name": "South East Ridge", "grade": "14,3,III", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": "3", "commitment": "III", "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": "14", "description": null } ], "quality": 3, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": "From Turners Bivvy climb onto the Madeline Plateau. Either drop down towards the head of the Age Glacier and climb steep snow ramps to gain the ridge or, if crevassed or the snow is gone, cross the plateau to Turners Pass and traverse the ridge until a 30m drop to the snow at the base of the South East Ridge. The first rock buttress, crux 13, leads to a snow slope and the second rock step. Move out left onto a large rock slab and up to a snow ridge. The third step can be climbed directly, crux 14, or by skirting out to the left. Follow a long and often crevassed snow-slope to the summit. This is a long route and can require a bivvy on the descent.", "ascent": "Dick Irvin, Gerry Hall-Jones, Peter Robinson, Lloyd Warburton, 8 January 1956" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/darrans/darran-mountains/mt-tutoko/south-east-ridge-and-snowface", "name": "South East Ridge and snowface", "grade": "IV,WI2", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": "IV", "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": "WI2", "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "The winter ascentioniststs avoided the the buttresses on the ridge by sidling onto the south face, continue up the snowface to the summit." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Jim Strang, Bruce Clark, Paul Corwin, Aug 1976." }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/darrans/darran-mountains/mt-tutoko/age-glacier-face-south-face", "name": "Age Glacier Face (South Face)", "grade": null, "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": "Take the right side of the Age Glacier avoiding the rock steps of the South East Ridge. A good early season route. The Age Glacier route was used in the first traverse of Mt T\u016btoko by Bill Blee, Ron Dickie, Bill Gordon and Ralph Miller in January 1955. The party descended the North West Ridge to the Donne Glacier and returned over Turners Pass. Turners Pass is now a more involved route due to glacial recession on the Donne Glacier side.", "ascent": "Colin Lea, Lindsay Stewart, Rod Ryan, January 1952" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/darrans/darran-mountains/mt-tutoko/south-west-ridge", "name": "South West Ridge", "grade": null, "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "Follow the dry creek bed which enters Limerick Creek 15m above Dave\u2019s Cave then continue through bush, cutting back towards the Tutoko River 90m above the cliffs. There is a large un-named rock bivvy located in the bluffs. Climb over the small Tauihu Peak on the ridge, then continue up the steep snow slope beside the broken ridge to the prominent buttress split by a deep chimney. The buttress can be turned easily on the left, leading to the slabs below and the summit snowfields.\r\nThe original party climbed the deep chimney (highly recommended) to gain the ridge above. A fantastic alpine journey." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Conway Powell, Richard Price, Mar 1973." }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/darrans/darran-mountains/mt-tutoko/rodda-route", "name": "Rodda Route", "grade": null, "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": "2100m", "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": "2100m", "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": null } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": "From the last trees in the Tutoko Valley, gain a bush ridge and then steep tussock, bluffs and gullies on to the upper shelf to reach the southwest ridge above the great rock bluff. The first ascent required three days\u2019 track cutting and three days\u2019 climbing.", "ascent": "Jack Ede, Graham Ellis, Geoff Longbottom, Roland Rodda, 28 January 1951" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/darrans/darran-mountains/mt-tutoko/bouchier-hill-moore", "name": "Bouchier Hill Moore", "grade": null, "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "From opposite the Pawnbroker Bivvy ascend a huge mound to the bottom of the face. Complex route finding for the initial 1000metres, the route moves through a series of water worn slabs connecting a series of ribs and buttresses. A more prominent buttress with a major gulley to its left and icefield on our right is gained at around 1100m. This is followed to the final headwall. \r\nThe party retreated back down the face in heavy rain before gaining the summit." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Dave Bouchier, Butch Hill, Pete Moore, 1974." }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/darrans/darran-mountains/mt-tutoko/west-face", "name": "West Face", "grade": "5,VI,7", "topo_ref": null, "image": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/route/first-third-of-route.2013-photo.jpg?itok=2JPm2EU6", "images": [ { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/route/first-third-of-route.2013-photo.jpg?itok=2JPm2EU6", "height": "325", "width": "217" }, { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/route/full-route-2011-photo.jpg?itok=ICke7ALY", "height": "325", "width": "217" } ], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": "5", "commitment": "VI", "mtcook": "7", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "climb the central weakness on the face (marked in above photo). He comments that he encountered \u2018endless good ice climbing\u2019 en-route and that the climb \u2018was classic kiwi mountaineering style, gully and couloir ice with snow sections now and then. Two sections of technical grade 5 ice and mixed, but says that as he considered himself off-route for both of these sections, he hasn\u2019t considered them in his given grade of VI, 4+. He does add that if the Darrans grading system was open-ended, the route would be grade VII." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Guy McKinnon 11 July 2013" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/darrans/darran-mountains/mt-tutoko/west-face-north-west-ridge", "name": "West Face to North West Ridge", "grade": null, "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "Ascend from the head of the Tutoko Valley to the North West Ridge. Follow grassy gullies between the cirque wall at the head of the valley and the West Face to slabs then turn right at the top of the slabs onto the snowfield below the North West Ridge. Continue alone the ridge to the summit.\r\nThe party climbed the route in 18 hours return to the road. An extremely fast time considering over 2000m of vertical high gain." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Paul Coradine, Harold Jacobs, Feb 1971" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/darrans/darran-mountains/mt-tutoko/right-hand-buttress", "name": "Right-hand Buttress", "grade": null, "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "Climb the right-hand buttress of the North West Ridge from the snowfield." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Alex Dickie, A Jackson, Gordon Speden, December 1931" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/darrans/darran-mountains/mt-tutoko/north-west-ridge", "name": "North West Ridge", "grade": null, "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "Climb the left-hand rock ridge to the headwall where a chimney on the west side gives a route to the summit." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Peter Graham, Samuel Turner, Mar 1924." }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/darrans/darran-mountains/mt-tutoko/scaife-route", "name": "Scaife Route", "grade": "15", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": "15", "description": "Follow a corner system tending left for 100m before stepping left again into an easier gully with some loose rock, then climb broken ground to the North East Ridge. A short rappel brings you to the base of the summit headwall. One or two pitches to the summit. \r\nThis line is the most objectively safe route." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Paul Scaife" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/darrans/darran-mountains/mt-tutoko/north-east-ridge", "name": "North East Ridge", "grade": null, "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Mike Gill, Phil Houghton, Feb 1959." }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/darrans/darran-mountains/mt-tutoko/fee-fi-fo-fum", "name": "Fee Fi Fo Fum", "grade": "22", "topo_ref": null, "image": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/routes/Tutoko-Donne%20Face-2002.jpeg?itok=nC_YEMk4", "images": [ { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/routes/Tutoko-Donne%20Face-2002.jpeg?itok=nC_YEMk4", "height": "325", "width": "217" } ], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": true, "ewbank": "22", "description": "Climb the ar\u00eate right of the big corner." }, { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": true, "ewbank": "20", "description": "Quartz wall, moving right to ar\u00eate." }, { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": true, "ewbank": "16", "description": "Continue up ar\u00eate." }, { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": true, "ewbank": "16", "description": "Left of the big block, then climb crack left onto quartz wall." }, { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": true, "ewbank": "19", "description": "Green corner past overhangs, then up flake system." }, { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": true, "ewbank": "19", "description": "Wide crack through roof, then up the wall above." }, { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": true, "ewbank": "16", "description": "From alcove, head up corner and wall to summit." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": true, "description": "Access is directly up the snowfield above the col between Tutoko and Tutoko Knob. Start just down and left from the highest snow patch.", "ascent": "Richard Thomson, Richard Turner, Dave Vass, February 2002" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/darrans/darran-mountains/mt-tutoko/east-face", "name": "East Face", "grade": null, "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": "From the Donne Glacier climb an avalanche cone to a 60m rock band on the left leading to a snow shelf. Take the rock on the left of the couloir to the second step on the South East Ridge.", "ascent": "A J Cooper, Peter Egglestone, January 1960" } ], "places": [], "image": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/wide/public/image/Darrans-Tutoko-2019.jpeg?itok=jnfDTYGM", "images": [ { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/wide/public/image/Darrans-Tutoko-2019.jpeg?itok=jnfDTYGM", "height": "723", "width": "1090" } ] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/nelson-lakes-kaikc58dura/inland-kaikoura-range/pinnacle": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/nelson-lakes-kaikc58dura/inland-kaikoura-range/pinnacle", "name": "Pinnacle", "altitude": "2720m", "access": "Pinnacle is usually accessed from the Hodder River. See external link.", "description": null, "latlng": [ "-41.985143", "173.661833" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/nelson-lakes-kaik%C5%8Dura/inland-kaik%C5%8Dura-range/pinnacle/north-west-face", "name": "North West Face", "grade": "2-", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "2-", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "" } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": "From near the Hodder/Staircase junction climb the spur and then slopes onto the north ridge. Follow ridge, sidling on the west if necessary, to the top. Alternatively, from further up Staircase Stream, climb a gully to the col just south of Pinnacle, then traverse western slopes to a small rock rib which leads to the top. Crows Nest can be reached from the north ridge of Pinnacle.", "ascent": null } ], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki/main-divide/mt-meeson": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki/main-divide/mt-meeson", "name": "Mt Meeson", "altitude": "2716m", "access": null, "description": null, "latlng": [ "-43.50361483", "170.2897444" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki/main-divide/mt-meeson/tasman-glacier", "name": "From the Tasman Glacier", "grade": "2+", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "2+", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "Using the access routes onto Mt Coronet, either cross the basin underneath Mt Coronet up onto the Main Divide or use the Main Divide from Mt Coronet itself and ascend to Mt Meeson." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Hugh Chambers, Conrad Kain, Prof. Robinson, J Robertson, Hugh Wright, Feb 1915." }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki/main-divide/mt-meeson/west-rib", "name": "West Rib", "grade": "3+", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "3+", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "From the glacier to the left of the rib, traverse into a narrow couloir breaching the length of the lower rib. Ascend the couloir to a snowslope and then up the final rock ar\u00eate on good rock" } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Dave Bamford, Peter Fullerton, George Kendall, John Nankervis, Jan 1978." } ], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki/main-divide/sturdee": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki/main-divide/sturdee", "name": "Sturdee", "altitude": "2708m", "access": null, "description": "West of Harper Saddle", "latlng": [ "-43.58959226", "170.11590958" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki/main-divide/sturdee/harper-saddle", "name": "From Harper Saddle", "grade": null, "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "The first ascent is unknown" } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": null }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki/main-divide/sturdee/west-rib", "name": "West Rib", "grade": null, "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "Three pitches of very good rock." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Bill McLeod, Mark Taylor, Sep 1989." } ], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki/malte-brun-range/mt-rumdoodle": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki/malte-brun-range/mt-rumdoodle", "name": "Mt Rumdoodle", "altitude": "2706m", "access": null, "description": "tba", "latlng": [ "-43.554523", "170.301077" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki/malte-brun-range/mt-rumdoodle/bonney-glacier", "name": "From Bonney Glacier", "grade": "2", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "2", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "The easiest way to climb this peak is from the Bonney Glacier but ascents have been made from all directions." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": null }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki/malte-brun-range/mt-rumdoodle/west-face", "name": "West Face", "grade": "3-", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "3-", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "A rock route on the west face." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Stella Sweney, Stuart Eadie, Jan 1978." }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki/malte-brun-range/mt-rumdoodle/malte-brun-glacier", "name": "From the Malte Brun Glacier", "grade": "3", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "3", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "An enjoyable ice gully route exists on the south-west aspect, gained from the top of the Malte Brun Glacier" } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "First ascent unknown." } ], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/canterbury-westland-alps/arrowsmith-range/jagged-pk": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/canterbury-westland-alps/arrowsmith-range/jagged-pk", "name": "Jagged Pk", "altitude": "2706m", "access": null, "description": null, "latlng": [ "-43.33303389", "171.01065797" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/canterbury/arrowsmith-range/jagged-pk/lawrence-buttress", "name": "Lawrence Buttress", "grade": "4", "topo_ref": "LB", "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "4", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "Start up a steep chimney a short distance along the northern side of the buttress and stay close\r\nto the crest of the buttress for the rest of the way. Where steep, the rock is clean, solid and timeconsuming.\r\nThis leads to the North Ridge, which is followed to the summit." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Dave Gobey, R Baggerly, April 1972 (not to the summit)." }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/canterbury/arrowsmith-range/jagged-pk/jagged-upham-couloir", "name": "Jagged-Upham Couloir", "grade": "5", "topo_ref": "JU", "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "5", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "The obvious natural top to bottom line \u2013 a typical ice route, usually best in late winter. The\r\nclimbing is straightforward in the lower sections with three distinct steps but steepens higher\r\nup, with little protection, and contains a rock step just below the Jagged-Upham Col. The route\r\nis subject to debris fall. From five to eight pitches may be needed, depending on conditions. This\r\nroute is time-consuming and saw several attempts before it was successfully climbed." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Lindsay Main, Warwick Anderson, James Jenkins, Mike Franklin, November 1973" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/canterbury/arrowsmith-range/jagged-pk/whiplash", "name": "Whiplash", "grade": "6", "topo_ref": "WL", "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "6", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "Start up the Jagged-Upham couloir, climbing a short steep step below where the Whiplash\r\nGully turns off to the right. Climb ice here or, if ice is thin, stay in the main Jagged-Upham\r\ncouloir and take a steep, mixed ramp to Whiplash Gully. Continue up steep ice, which merges\r\nwith a five-metre frozen waterfall. The upper couloir contains 60-degree ice with one short\r\nsteeper section. After the steeper section aim for the top of Deep Throat Gully and the summit\r\nblock of Jagged. The route can be time-consuming and the Grade is dependent on conditions." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Tim Wethey, Lindsay Main, Mike Franklin, Daryll Thompson, August 1975" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/canterbury/arrowsmith-range/jagged-pk/east-face", "name": "East Face", "grade": null, "topo_ref": "EF", "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "A buttress of sound rock interspersed with loose argillite." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "John Stanton, Kevin Carroll, Dick Beetham, 1971" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/canterbury/arrowsmith-range/jagged-pk/deep-throat", "name": "Deep Throat", "grade": "5+", "topo_ref": "DT", "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "5+", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "The first obvious gully north of the East Buttress averages 70-degree ice, but the sixth pitch has a\r\n30-metre vertical ice step before the angle eases and the central icefields are reached. The Throat\r\nis the top section of the next gully to the north, a deeply gutted fissure in the upper face with\r\nan intimidating headwall. The first ascent went up rock on the left (south) side of the Throat. It\r\nis possible to cross the Throat at its entrance and continue up the right face over steep, broken\r\nground. The route meets a col just below the summit, to the north of Jagged Peak. Sustained." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Mike Franklin, Darryl Thompson, October 1974" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/canterbury/arrowsmith-range/jagged-pk/gully-two-cargo-couloir", "name": "Gully Two / Cargo Couloir", "grade": "5+", "topo_ref": "G2", "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "5+", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "Follow a deeply-incised gully just to the right of Deep Throat. Climb steep ice and two 15-metre\r\nice walls, several smaller ones and a very difficult 45-metre mixed pitch. Exit up Deep Throat." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Lindsay Main, Don Cargo, November 1974" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/canterbury/arrowsmith-range/jagged-pk/gully-three", "name": "Gully Three", "grade": null, "topo_ref": "G3", "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "Follow the last major gully before a prominent buttress dropping down to the Cameron Glacier.\r\nClimb several steep steps and frozen waterfalls. The final two or three rope lengths to the summit\r\nridge involve unpleasant rock." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Dave Fearnley, Brent Davis" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/canterbury/arrowsmith-range/jagged-pk/gully-four", "name": "Gully Four", "grade": null, "topo_ref": "G4", "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "The next gully to the right." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Dave Fearnley, Brent Davis" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/canterbury/arrowsmith-range/jagged-pk/east-ridge", "name": "East Ridge", "grade": "3-", "topo_ref": "ER", "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "3-", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "From Jagged Col the ridge is steep but straightforward on the Jagged Stream side to about half\r\nheight. From here gain the crest of the ridge and traverse three small gendarmes, separated by\r\nnarrow ridges of loose rock, to the summit. The third gendarme is the crux." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Stan Conway, Tom Newth, Frank Gillett, April 1938" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/canterbury/arrowsmith-range/jagged-pk/north-east-face", "name": "North East Face", "grade": "2+", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "2+", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "A couloir on the North East Face leads from the Jagged Glacier to loose rock just below the\r\nsummit. Often used as a quick descent route." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Evan Wilson, Andy Anderson, Doug Brough, Stan Barnett (descended), December 1931" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/canterbury/arrowsmith-range/jagged-pk/north-ridge", "name": "North Ridge", "grade": "2+", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "2+", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "Possibly the easiest route to the summit. Head up Jagged Glacier (can be cut off late season) to\r\ngain the Lawrence divide at the foot of the North Ridge. Drop below the ridge on the Lawrence\r\nside until reaching a wedge-shaped gap, then climb easy couloirs on the Rakaia side back onto\r\nthe ridge for the final few gaps and pinnacles to the summit." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Evan Wilson, Andy Anderson, Doug Brough, Stan Barnett, December 1931" } ], "places": [], "image": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/wide/public/image/Jagged_0.png?itok=7qQl4wCr", "images": [ { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/wide/public/image/Jagged_0.png?itok=7qQl4wCr", "height": "557", "width": "900" }, { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/image/Jagged1.png?itok=9jT00ehc", "height": "146", "width": "325" } ] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/canterbury/arrowsmith-range/upham-pk": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/canterbury/arrowsmith-range/upham-pk", "name": "Upham Pk", "altitude": "2705m", "access": null, "description": "na", "latlng": [ "-43.334106", "171.008806" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/canterbury/arrowsmith-range/upham-pk/lawrence-buttress", "name": "Lawrence Buttress", "grade": "5", "topo_ref": "LB", "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "5", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "This is the route of the first direct ascent of Upham ; all previous climbs had been part of a traverse.\r\nFollow the buttress heading almost directly to the summit from the head of the Lawrence\r\nGlacier. The route is straightforward with one pitch up to grade 5, but the rock is poor." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Mike Franklin, Mike Perry, February 1974" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/canterbury/arrowsmith-range/upham-pk/tower-peak", "name": "From Tower Peak", "grade": "3", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "3", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "From Tower Peak traverse a needle and three major towers, turning the first on the Cameron\r\nface and crossing the tops of the remaining two to the final pitch. Loose and tricky in places." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Laurie Osbourne, Geoff Harrow, March 1952" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/canterbury/arrowsmith-range/upham-pk/upham-buttress", "name": "Upham Buttress", "grade": "15,5", "topo_ref": "UB", "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "5", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": "15", "description": "Reach the buttress via the obvious, debris-exposed ramp and follow it for 11 steep and demanding\r\npitches negotiating a big crack, a mini-ramp, a large wide chimney and more cracks, up to\r\nrock grade 15. The rock is mainly good." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Mike Franklin, Tim Wethey, March 1974" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/canterbury/arrowsmith-range/upham-pk/jagged-peak", "name": "From Jagged Peak", "grade": "3-", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "3-", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "From the ridge just south of the summit of Jagged Peak, make an exposed traverse down and\r\nalong a narrow ledge on the Cameron side to the col between Jagged and Upham. From here it\r\nis a steep scramble to the top of Upham." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "David Elphick, Jim Wilson, Mike White, Barry Smith, December 1955" } ], "places": [], "image": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/wide/public/image/Upham.png?itok=ac1yDUDg", "images": [ { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/wide/public/image/Upham.png?itok=ac1yDUDg", "height": "557", "width": "900" }, { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/image/Upham2.png?itok=aZ0NdkRF", "height": "146", "width": "325" } ] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aspiring/main-divide/popes-nose": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aspiring/main-divide/popes-nose", "name": "Popes Nose", "altitude": "2700m", "access": null, "description": "This small peak is a great vantage point and has a stomach sucking drop down the East Face. It is an exposed straightforward climb from the Bonar Glacier.", "latlng": [ "-44.391543", "168.746126" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aspiring/main-divide/popes-nose/bonar-glacier", "name": "From Bonar Glacier", "grade": "2,I", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": "0m", "pitches": [ { "alpine": "2", "commitment": "I", "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": null } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": "0", "natural_pro": false, "description": "A short climb up steep snow slopes beneath and between the two peaks, then an airy traverse eastwards along the ridge. About five hours from French Ridge Hut.", "ascent": "Harry Stevenson, Doug Dick, David Lewis, December 1936" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aspiring/main-divide/popes-nose/north-east-ridge", "name": "North East Ridge", "grade": "15,3,III", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": "3", "commitment": "III", "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": "15", "description": null } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": "Although the North East Ridge is steep, clean-cut, and appealing, it was not attempted until 1969. The ridge is gained from Moncrieff Col, to the upper shelf of the Volta Glacier. Continue up the snow until underneath the peak and following a sloping ledge back out to the south west to gain the ridge at the foot of the steep section. From here the climbing is sustained about grade 14-15 with wild exposure down the East Face. The rock is good, with an easier section high on the ridge followed by another short steep section immediately below the summit. The climb requires about six hours from Moncrieff Col to the peak. It is also possible to access the Volta from the Bonar by descending down between the two peaks of Popes Nose. Two rappels may be required. This route is only practicable if a large snow ramp is formed on the north side.", "ascent": "Laurie Kennedy, Dave Innes, February 1969" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aspiring/main-divide/popes-nose/bishops-buttress", "name": "Bishop\u2019s Buttress", "grade": "17,V", "topo_ref": "3", "image": null, "images": [], "length": "0m", "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": "V", "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": "17", "description": null } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": "0", "natural_pro": false, "description": "During summer the face is usually free of ice and good clean rock prevails. In the summer of 1999 Dave Vass, Richard Turner, Allan Uren and Clinton Beavan made the first summer ascents via different routes. Helicopter access was used.\nBishop\u2019s Buttress is the buttress on the left side of the face and tops out on the Bonar Glacier, not the summit of Pope\u2019s Nose. The first 8 or 9 pitches are up a corner system of perfect rock at grade 17. A standard rock rack was used. After a prominent tower the rock deteriorates, but could possibly be better if instead of going to the tower you trend right up a steep wall. The last four pitches are of poor rock and care is required not to end up on bird-brain boulevard.", "ascent": "Allan Uren and Clinton Beavan, summer 1999." }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aspiring/main-divide/popes-nose/f-pope", "name": "F*** the Pope", "grade": "VI,6", "topo_ref": "4", "image": null, "images": [], "length": "0m", "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": "VI", "mtcook": "6", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": null } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": "0", "natural_pro": false, "description": "The East Face is a fantastic sweep of compact dark schist with small roofs which lend it an air of impregnability. During winter this air hangs heavily around the face and lines of ice contribute to give it an unfriendly persona. This is what Nick Cradock, Brian Alder, Dave Fearnley and Lionel Clay were hoping to sample when they made the first ascent, during winter, of the face. The face had been attempted before by Nick and various partners, but they were thwarted by a lack of good ice. This seems to be a characteristic of the face. The first, and subsequent ascent parties have used a helicopter to access this very isolated place. A challenge still exists for a party to walk in and climb \u2013a committing prospect.\nThis 18 pitch route is steepest in the lower section and weaves around linking up the runnels. With fatter ice it would be possible to take a more direct line. The first ascent party bivvied and, unless good conditions are encountered, a bivvy for successive parties will also be required because of the size of the route and short winter days.", "ascent": "Nick Cradock, Brian Alder, Dave Fearnley, Lionel Clay, July/August 1990" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aspiring/main-divide/popes-nose/vision", "name": "The Vision", "grade": "20,V", "topo_ref": "5", "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": "V", "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": "20", "description": "This is a fine line up the centre of the face on steep solid rock. Twelve technical pitches and then some scrambling to the Bonar Glacier." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Dave Vass, Richard Turner, summer 1999." } ], "places": [], "image": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/wide/public/image/Aspiring%20Flat_fmt_0.jpeg?itok=-yn8F5lZ", "images": [ { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/wide/public/image/Aspiring%20Flat_fmt_0.jpeg?itok=-yn8F5lZ", "height": "320", "width": "510" }, { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/image/Popes%20nose.jpg?itok=SVwG25XN", "height": "213", "width": "325" } ] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki/main-divide/mt-aylmer": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki/main-divide/mt-aylmer", "name": "Mt Aylmer", "altitude": "2699m", "access": null, "description": null, "latlng": [ "-43.507287", "170.361617" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki/main-divide/mt-aylmer/standard-route", "name": "Standard Route", "grade": "1", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "1", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "Easily climbed from either \u2018Aylmer Col\u2019 (between Aylmer and Hochstetter Dome) or Tasman Saddle. The short, steep south face has been skied." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Barbara, Jim & George Dennistoun, Ada Julius, Jack Clarke, Dec 1910." }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki/main-divide/mt-aylmer/north-east-ridge", "name": "North East Ridge", "grade": null, "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "Gain the ridge from nearer to Graceful Peak. Very loose rock reported." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Keith McNaughton, John Gamlen, Dec 1966 (involving a traverse from Graceful Pk)" } ], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/canterbury/arrowsmith-range/tower-pk": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/canterbury/arrowsmith-range/tower-pk", "name": "Tower Pk", "altitude": "2696m", "access": null, "description": "The high point is the needle-like tower in a group of four pinnacles and some inventive climbing may\nbe required to reach the summit.", "latlng": [ "-43.334293", "171.006832" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/canterbury/arrowsmith-range/tower-pk/north-west-couloir-and-buttress", "name": "North West Couloir and Buttress", "grade": "3", "topo_ref": "NWC", "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "3", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "Take the prominent couloir that leads up from the head of the Lawrence Glacier. If out of condition,\r\nclimb the buttress on the right \u2013 on a thin band of solid rock with plenty of small holds.\r\nHead out of the couloir onto the exposed rock of a prominent rib, which leads up the face to\r\nthe summit ridge. Climb a short distance along the ridge to the summit pinnacles." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "H W (Sandy) Cormack, Lloyd Wilson, January 1934" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/canterbury/arrowsmith-range/tower-pk/west-couloir", "name": "West Couloir", "grade": "3-", "topo_ref": "WC", "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "3-", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "From the basin immediately south of the bend in the Lawrence Glacier, follow the small glacier\r\nthat leads to the east-trending couloir that runs towards the summit of Tower Peak. Climb the\r\ncouloir to a notch in a prominent rib. From here, traverse along and slightly down the ridge\r\nbefore heading up diagonally across the face on ribs of sound rock interspersed with friable sections.\r\nGain the summit ridge and climb straightforward rock to the summit pinnacles." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "H W (Sandy) Cormack, Lloyd Wilson (descended), January 1934" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/canterbury/arrowsmith-range/tower-pk/harrow-osborne", "name": "Harrow-Osborne", "grade": "3", "topo_ref": "HO", "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "3", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "Above the second icefall of the Cameron Glacier, gain a snow and ice lead below Pt 2642 metres.\r\nTraverse steep, exposed rock to reach the small glacier south of Tower Peak. Follow snow to the\r\ncrest of the ridge and scramble to the summit, passing most obstacles on the Lawrence side." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Laurie Osbourne, Geoff Harrow, March 1952" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/canterbury/arrowsmith-range/tower-pk/east-face", "name": "East Face", "grade": "3+", "topo_ref": "EF", "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "3+", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "From Upham Buttress, scramble up an indistinct rock rib right of the hanging glacier south of\r\nTower Peak. The climbing is not difficult but the rock is loose." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Warwick Anderson, Mike Franklin, Don Cargo, February 1973" } ], "places": [], "image": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/wide/public/image/Tower.png?itok=KyrRrBHO", "images": [ { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/wide/public/image/Tower.png?itok=KyrRrBHO", "height": "557", "width": "900" }, { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/image/Tower1.png?itok=VTIxRB2Y", "height": "146", "width": "325" } ] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki/malte-brun-range/mt-johnson": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki/malte-brun-range/mt-johnson", "name": "Mt Johnson", "altitude": "2692m", "access": "Access to the Reay valley is currently straightforward (February 2015). Walk up the Tasman Glacier then ascend a prominent, rightwards-leaning moraine ledge on the true right of the valley entrance (the true left looks impenetrable). Once in the valley, sidle upwards on the true right to the confluence of the Reay and Walpole Streams where small campsites among snowgrass can be found. From Ball Shelter to the confluence of the Reay and Walpole Streams takes about 6 hours.\nAbove the Murchison valley, access to the terraces beneath Novara Peak and Mt Johnson can be found up the slopes beside the Burnett Glacier. Between the Burnett and Lecky glaciers lie tussock basins with good campsites, but there are steep walls leading from these terraces down to the river.", "description": "There is some good rock climbing on this mountain, notably the red pillars of the lower North West Ridge above the Reay Valley. More routes could be climbed here.", "latlng": [ "-43.603768", "170.262024" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki/malte-brun-range/mt-johnson/so-called-arthur-king", "name": "So Called Arthur King", "grade": "18", "topo_ref": "A", "image": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/route/New%20route%20topo%202%20with%20reference.jpg?itok=axznHubG", "images": [ { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/route/New%20route%20topo%202%20with%20reference.jpg?itok=axznHubG", "height": "325", "width": "232" } ], "length": "245m", "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": "40m", "bolts": null, "trad": true, "ewbank": "15", "description": "Climb the right side of a pink column just left of an eroded grey streak to finish at a large belay ledge." }, { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": "40m", "bolts": null, "trad": true, "ewbank": "16", "description": "Trend left up slabby terrain to a shallow vertical corner. A couple of strenuous moves lead to a sloping ledge at the base of the main corner." }, { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": "60m", "bolts": null, "trad": true, "ewbank": "18", "description": "Up the main corner to a sitting belay ledge. Pitch could be split in two if climbing on 50m ropes." }, { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": "30m", "bolts": null, "trad": true, "ewbank": "11", "description": "Up a short face to an ar\u00eate then follow a large crack diagonally up and right." }, { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": "40m", "bolts": null, "trad": true, "ewbank": "15", "description": "Climb the shallow and exposed rightward-trending corner." }, { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": "35m", "bolts": null, "trad": true, "ewbank": "11", "description": "Up a shallow, cracked groove then follow the prow to topout on a flat ledge with fantastic views of the valley and peaks above the Grand Plateau." } ], "quality": 1, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": true, "description": "Takes the skyline pillar (as viewed from the confluence of the Reay and Walpole Streams in the Reay Valley) via a series of corners and ar\u00eates to the lower North West Ridge of Mt Johnson. Six or seven pitches of generally good quality rock with some exposed climbing, good protection and a really nice topout ledge before an easy-angled scramble to point 2235m.\nTo access the route from the upper Reay valley, continue sidling on the true right of the Reay Stream until a crossing point is reached a short way above an impressive chasm.\nDescend by heading south along the Northwest Ridge to a col and then dropping down scree and easy-angled snow to the upper Reay Valley.", "ascent": "Nick Black, Nick Douglas, February 2015" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki/malte-brun-range/mt-johnson/north-west-ridge", "name": "North West Ridge", "grade": "2-", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "2-", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "From the Reay Valley head up couloirs onto the upper North West Ridge then on to the summit." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "First ascent party unknown." }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki/malte-brun-range/mt-johnson/north-east-ridge", "name": "North East Ridge", "grade": "13,3+", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "3+", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": "13", "description": "Ascend to the saddle between Mts Johnson and Chudleigh either via the Lecky Glacier or the ridge on the left. From the saddle traverse a 2km ridge of jumbled rock with steps becoming increasingly harder. From a sharp notch just north of the summit, ascend final face of three pitches (crux 13) to the summit." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "R Arbon, Lindsay Main, J B Waterhouse, Dec 1978" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki/malte-brun-range/mt-johnson/south-face", "name": "South Face", "grade": "4", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "4", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "Commencing from the Burnett Glacier, ascend the prominent rock rib leading to the summit." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Rob Blackburne, Mike Brosnahan, Ross Cullen, Nick Shearer, Mar 1983" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki/malte-brun-range/mt-johnson/south-west-ridge", "name": "South West Ridge", "grade": "2-", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "2-", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "Climb to summit between Mts Malcher and Johnson, then climb along the undulating ridge to summit." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "First ascent party unknown." }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki/malte-brun-range/mt-johnson/west-face", "name": "West Face", "grade": "2", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "2", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "As for the Dorothy Glacier Route, but before the Dorothy Glacier is reached head straight up good, fairly easy rock to the summit." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Samuel Turner, Darby Thomson, Feb 1913." }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki/malte-brun-range/mt-johnson/dorothy-glacier-route", "name": "Dorothy Glacier Route", "grade": "2-", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "2-", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "From the moraine hollow south of the Dorothy Stream, gain height, climbing past a waterfall, and traverse across onto the Dorothy Glacier. Ascend to col and up the North West Ridge." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "First ascent unknown." } ], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki/malte-brun-range/mt-abel": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki/malte-brun-range/mt-abel", "name": "Mt Abel", "altitude": "2688m", "access": null, "description": "Previously known as Peak 9144, Close to Kelman and Tasman Saddle huts, Mt Abel has a number of short popular routes. The summit is an excellent viewpoint. Descent is usually by the Red Buttress or the Pencil Couloir. See the Kelman Hut logbook for up-to-date information on fixed gear for abseiling.", "latlng": [ "-43.521574", "170.361729" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki/malte-brun-range/mt-abel/east-ridge", "name": "East Ridge", "grade": "3,III", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": "3", "commitment": "III", "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": null } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": "The most satisfying was to approach this ridge is all the way from Starvation Saddle (along mixed snow and rock), but it can also from the upper Murchison below the north-east face of Mt Abel. The final 250m rock ridge leading up toe the summit is generally loose.", "ascent": "F J Austin, J B Butchers, J C Mathews, December 1957" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki/malte-brun-range/mt-abel/kelmanator-left", "name": "Kelmanator Left", "grade": "3+,II", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": "3+", "commitment": "II", "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": null } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": "Start up the main gully on the left side of the north-west face, then break left to follow the easiest-looking route. Best when there\u2019s plenty of snow around. A funnel for rock fall. First ascent unknown.", "ascent": null }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki/malte-brun-range/mt-abel/kelmanator-right", "name": "Kelmanator Right", "grade": "4,II,M3", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": "4", "commitment": "II", "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": "M3", "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": null } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": "Start up the main gully on the left side of the north-west face, then stay right to climb the gully on the left of the large buttress. A winter and spring route involving M3 climbing. First ascent unknown.", "ascent": null }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki/malte-brun-range/mt-abel/brown-buttress", "name": "Brown Buttress", "grade": "16,4,II", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": "180m", "pitches": [ { "alpine": "4", "commitment": "II", "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": "180m", "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": "16", "description": null } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": "The buttress left of Red Buttress. First ascent unknown.", "ascent": null }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki/malte-brun-range/mt-abel/red-buttress", "name": "Red Buttress", "grade": "12,3+,I", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": "3+", "commitment": "I", "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": "12", "description": null } ], "quality": 1, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": "The best route on Abel when there\u02bbs not much snow around, with around 180m of good rock at grade 10\u201312 followed by scrambling to the summit. There are four bolted abseil stations, all a full 30m apart. Two of these are not on the ascent route, so don\u02bbt be fooled on your way up. The top-most station is about as low as is possible to scramble without a rope. When abseiling from the distinct notch in the buttress, head down the Pencil Couloir side.", "ascent": "Shaun Norman, Dave McLeod, 1990" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki/malte-brun-range/mt-abel/pencil-couloir", "name": "Pencil Couloir", "grade": "2+,I", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": "2+", "commitment": "I", "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": null } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": "Popular when there is plenty of snow around. About 200m of 35\u201340 degree snow with some short steeper steps. First ascent unknown.", "ascent": null }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki/malte-brun-range/mt-abel/west-ridge", "name": "West Ridge", "grade": "2+,I", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": "2+", "commitment": "I", "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": null } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": "From the Abel-Kain col, the ridge involves moderately steep scrambling on loose rock.", "ascent": "Jack Clarke, Laurence Earle, January 1910" } ], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki/main-divide/mt-frederick-gardiner": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki/main-divide/mt-frederick-gardiner", "name": "Mt Frederick Gardiner", "altitude": "2680m", "access": null, "description": "Usually traversed along the Divide. See Mt Aurora.\nKatie Gardiner, Jack Pope (probably in the early 1930s)", "latlng": null, "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki/main-divide/mt-frederick-gardiner/rudolf-rib", "name": "Rudolf Rib", "grade": "3+", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "3+", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "Climb a loose rock rib from the Rudolf Glacier (avoiding a small icecliff near the top) to reach a snow basin. Staying clear of an icecliff near the peak, head right up to the Main Divide between Mts Frederick Gardiner and Aurora. The final ridge to the summit is steep and loose." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Mike Andrews, Bill King, Jan 1981." } ], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/%C5%8Dhau-landsborough/main-divide/mt-hopkins": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/%C5%8Dhau-landsborough/main-divide/mt-hopkins", "name": "Mt Hopkins", "altitude": "2678m", "access": null, "description": null, "latlng": [ "-43.79088568", "169.96258763" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/%C5%8Dhau-landsborough/main-divide/mt-hopkins/east-ridge", "name": "East Ridge", "grade": "3", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "3", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": null } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": "The route of the first, and almost all subsequent ascents. From Faith Col\ntraverse around onto the Hourglass Glacier and then follow the original route\non the narrowing ridge to the summit. The climb is most frequently commenced\nfrom the Richardson Glacier but parties have also ascended the route\nbeginning from the Dobson, and the Le Blanc Valleys.", "ascent": "From Faith Col Samuel Turner, Peter Graham, Frank Milne, March 1914" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/%C5%8Dhau-landsborough/main-divide/mt-hopkins/farther-maddening-crowd", "name": "Farther from the Maddening Crowd", "grade": "5,IV", "topo_ref": "South East Face", "image": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/routes/Inked117542705_936791813494318_9105652116206656036_n_LI.jpg?itok=sZM59yee", "images": [ { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/routes/Inked117542705_936791813494318_9105652116206656036_n_LI.jpg?itok=sZM59yee", "height": "244", "width": "325" }, { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/routes/117241074_2782861255277177_7809787325253823989_n.jpg?itok=_gFzuKhv", "height": "325", "width": "242" }, { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/routes/117445372_608382949862936_1913203604398436212_n.jpg?itok=KGY25atO", "height": "325", "width": "242" } ], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": "5", "commitment": "IV", "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": null } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": "4wd up the Dobson to Kennedy Hut. Approach via Tragedy Col to a bivvy site at Faith Col.\nMotivated by the numerous parties climbing the nearby Vampire, we thought this face could be in condition.\nA good ice climb, though difficult to protect at times, was found.", "ascent": "Kyle Walter, Sam Waetford 12/08/2020" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/%C5%8Dhau-landsborough/main-divide/mt-hopkins/south-ridge", "name": "South Ridge", "grade": "4,M4", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "4", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": "M4", "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "for the record we described it as a test piece beacuse the crux was so steep for a ridge, even compared to face routes such as the Shiela face. All the technical difficulties involved mixed climbing and scraping soft snow off rocks to look for protection" } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": "Mt Hopkins rises steeply from the Richardson Glacier. The climb has been\ndescribed as a real test piece. Follow the obvious spur upwards toward the\neast ridge. Crux section is near three-quarter height. The rock strata\nprovides very little assistance to climbers hence the route is best tackled\nwhen iced-up.", "ascent": "Bill McLeod, Peter Dickson November 1992" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/%C5%8Dhau-landsborough/main-divide/mt-hopkins/gormenghast", "name": "Gormenghast", "grade": "5", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "5", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": null } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": "The South West face of Mt Hopkins is an awesome 900m high wall frowning down\non the head of the Richardson Glacier. The stunning face which can be seen in\nprofile from as far away as Dog Kennel corner east of Lake Tekapo, has long\nbeen on some climbers minds.\nStarted walking early Wednesday morning. Thursday bivvied beneath the face\nbut didn't look up much. Except once or twice, and had to marvel at my own\naudacity. This must be the mountain of mountains. And this must be the face\nof faces. Even that sighting as you come through the MacKenzie country. This\ndistant tower with cloud banner, a sight to captivate any mountain enthusiast\nsurely.\nBill McLeod, personal communication 1993.\nFrom the Richardson Glacier ascend the rib just right of the ice cliffs to\ngain the snow shelf. Head left, and up two snow shelves. From the top shelf\nclimb the narrow gully which takes a straight line to the skyline and exit\nthirty metres west of the summit. Close to the summit the gully fades out\nthen reforms and continues in an appealing thread to the very top.", "ascent": "Bill McLeod, July 1993" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/%C5%8Dhau-landsborough/main-divide/mt-hopkins/north-west-face", "name": "North West Face", "grade": "3", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "3", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": null } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": "An obvious but exposed route on steep snow slopes leading from the summit of\nMt Hopkins down the face and providing access to Hope Col, and Black Tower. A\ncrevasse near the bottom of the slope can make late summer ascents\ninteresting.", "ascent": "Descended and ascended, Ash Cunningham, Fred Hollows, L.J.Wilson, Tom Barcham January 1952" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/%C5%8Dhau-landsborough/main-divide/mt-hopkins/north-buttress", "name": "North Buttress", "grade": "17,5+", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": "1100m", "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "5+", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": "1100m", "bolts": null, "trad": true, "ewbank": "17", "description": null } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": true, "description": "Descending from Le Blanc Glacier, if the narrow gully is broken head on to a\nledge on its true left (just above where the gully narrows). Three 50m\nabseils to valley floor. The bottom half of the buttress is actually two\nridges which merge at half height. The left one (looking up) has better rock,\neasy soloing (grade 10) for 500metres till reaching a snow shelf. Head up and\nstart again up ramps on the upper buttress. Another 100 metres of solid grade\n12 solo, then 500metres of sustained grade 14-17 climbing (20+ pitches, we\nsimul-climbed some sections). The technical crux is high on the route.\nOverall, the climb increases throughout in technical nature and commitment,\nincluding very exposed summit ridge traversing. The rock is generally of good\nto very good quality with enough protection, although there are some loose\nplates high up.", "ascent": "Kynan Bazely, Paul Hersey, January 2006" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/%C5%8Dhau-landsborough/main-divide/mt-hopkins/le-blanc-glacier-east-ridge", "name": "Le Blanc Glacier - East Ridge", "grade": "3", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "3", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": null } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": "Ascend the Le Blanc Glacier by surmounting the choked gully at mid-height,\nand continuing up the snowfield to join the original ascent route. The climb\ninvolving over 1700m of height gain, and return can be completed in a long\nday from the bivvy rock near the mouth of Romping Water.\nThis ridge of rotten rock is quite sensational. It is steep and narrow with a\ntremendous drop on either side. ... The climb to the summit would have been\nstraightforward though exposed, had the ridge not been partially snowed up.\nAt one point we had to make a nasty detour on to very steep snow-covered rock\non the Le Blanc face. We double-roped down the ridge at this point on the way\nback. We reached the summit at 1.15pm after some careful climbing. It was\nanother wonderful view, this time including the Hopkins Valley. At this hour\nwe did not consider attempting the big task of traversing on to the virgin\npeak. Time, perhaps, was not the only factor.\nEarle Riddiford, New Zealand Alpine Journal, 1948.", "ascent": "Bill Beaven, Norman Hardie, Jim McFarlane, Earle Riddiford, January 1948." } ], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki/main-divide/moonlight-pk": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki/main-divide/moonlight-pk", "name": "Moonlight Pk", "altitude": "2670m", "access": null, "description": "An easy ascent from Graham Saddle.", "latlng": [ "-43.50958674", "170.2560853" ], "routes": [], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki/malte-brun-range/mt-kain": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki/malte-brun-range/mt-kain", "name": "Mt Kain", "altitude": "2670m", "access": null, "description": "The companion peak to Mt Abel, 400m along the range towards Mt Annan. Conrad Kain was a prolific guide during the first decades of the twentieth century, completing more than 40 first ascents in New Zealand. Mt Kain hosts some good quality, accessible routes on Kelman Buttress. These short but steep routes provide some fun climbing and are a good place for practising skills close to Kelman Hut.", "latlng": [ "-43.522228", "170.358038" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki/malte-brun-range/mt-kain/east-ridge", "name": "East Ridge", "grade": "3,II", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": "3", "commitment": "II", "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": null } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": "Without snow, this is probably the worst climb you could possibly do in the region. A steep and exposed scramble on awful rock. It might be okay in winter or spring with show on it. What were Clarke and Earle thinking?", "ascent": "Jack Clarke, Laurence Earle, February 1910" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki/malte-brun-range/mt-kain/raising-kain", "name": "Raising Kain", "grade": "17,5,I", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": "180m", "pitches": [ { "alpine": "5", "commitment": "I", "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": "180m", "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": "17", "description": null } ], "quality": 1, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": "Climbs directly up the full height arete opposite Kelman Hut. First climbed in six pitches. Descend by abseiling the route, or by abseil using the fixed anchors on Zero Politics.", "ascent": "Murray Ball, Tom Walker, December 2011" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki/malte-brun-range/mt-kain/zero-politics", "name": "Zero Politics", "grade": "15,4,I", "topo_ref": null, "image": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/route/11390361_378709589005798_344722177738377324_n.jpg?itok=uXoOsEXF", "images": [ { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/route/11390361_378709589005798_344722177738377324_n.jpg?itok=uXoOsEXF", "height": "325", "width": "244" } ], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": "4", "commitment": "I", "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": "15", "description": null } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": "The next arete right of Raising Kain terminates on a shelf at half height. Climb this arete, cross the shelf and then up the prominent corner immediately right of Raising Kain. Has been bolted to allow 30m abseils (Nick Cradock, 2013).", "ascent": "Murray Ball Nick Morgan, Reza, December 2004" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki/malte-brun-range/mt-kain/gift", "name": "The Gift", "grade": "3+,II", "topo_ref": null, "image": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/route/The%20Gift%20Mt%20Abel.jpg?itok=896yWNio", "images": [ { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/route/The%20Gift%20Mt%20Abel.jpg?itok=896yWNio", "height": "325", "width": "182" } ], "length": "180m", "pitches": [ { "alpine": "3+", "commitment": "II", "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": "180m", "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": null } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": true, "description": "Climbs mixed ground in the corner system to the right of the Zero Politics buttress. Descend Zero Politics.", "ascent": "Murray Ball, Tom Perwick, Chris Sillars, Rowan Bashford, Wouter van Beerschoten, July 2014" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki/malte-brun-range/mt-kain/west-ridge", "name": "West Ridge", "grade": "1+,I", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": "1+", "commitment": "I", "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": null } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": "A straightforward ascent from the Annan-Kain col. First ascent unknown.", "ascent": null } ], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki-tai-poutini/main-divide/brodrick-pk": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki-tai-poutini/main-divide/brodrick-pk", "name": "Brodrick Pk", "altitude": "2669m", "access": null, "description": null, "latlng": [ "-43.4983243", "170.39417267" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki-tai-poutini/main-divide/brodrick-pk/whymper-saddle", "name": "From Whymper Saddle", "grade": null, "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "From Whymper Saddle follow the Main Divide firstly on snow then rock to the Low Peak." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "D W Beatty, P A L Fraser, A W McNaught, J V McNulty, Jan 1955 (Low Pk)" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki-tai-poutini/main-divide/brodrick-pk/south-west-ridge", "name": "South West Ridge", "grade": null, "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "The vague feature on the left side of the peak seen from Murchison Hut." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "John Gamlen, Keith McNaughton, Dec 1967 (Descended)" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki-tai-poutini/main-divide/brodrick-pk/loves-last-south-face", "name": "Loves Last (South Face)", "grade": "4-", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "4-", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "Take the central gully and then enjoy ice on rock." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Graham Love, Dave Carlyle, Sep 1985" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki-tai-poutini/main-divide/brodrick-pk/south-east-ridge", "name": "South East Ridge", "grade": "2-", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "2-", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "From Classen Saddle climb snow slopes to arrive high on the Main Divide north of the summit, then continue to the summit." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "First Ascent Unknown" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki-tai-poutini/main-divide/brodrick-pk/main-divide", "name": "Main Divide", "grade": "2-", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "2-", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "From Classen Saddle traverse to the vicinity of Whataroa Saddle, then up south-eastern snow slopes (or rock depending on conditions) and then traverse the Main Divide to the summit." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Will Kennedy, Jack Lippe, Jan 1917" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki-tai-poutini/main-divide/brodrick-pk/whataroa-saddle", "name": "From Whataroa Saddle", "grade": null, "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "From Whataroa Saddle follow the rock and snow ridge of the Main Divide. Alternatively, turn to the western side and climb snow slopes that lead to a point north-east of the summit." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": null } ], "places": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/main-divide-of-the-southern-alps/brodrick-peak/west-face-of-brodrick-pk", "name": "West Face of Brodrick Pk", "altitude": null, "access": null, "description": "West Face of Brodrick Pk", "latlng": null, "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/main-divide-of-the-southern-alps/brodrick-peak/west-face-of-brodrick-pk/original-route", "name": "Original Route", "grade": null, "topo_ref": "OR", "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "Drop into the n\u00e9v\u00e9 from a point west of Whataroa Saddle. Climb the prominent rib on the face, gaining the north ridge, then continue to the summit." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Dave Bamford, John Nankervis, Feb 1978" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/main-divide-of-the-southern-alps/brodrick-peak/west-face-of-brodrick-pk/slab-route", "name": "Slab Route", "grade": "16,3", "topo_ref": "SR", "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "3", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": "16", "description": "Six pitches of excellent red rock. Start just left of the major left facing corner and finish 100m below, and to the south of the summit (crux 15/16). The slabs can be seen from the Main Divide between Hochstetter Dome and Aylmer. Climbed from the upper Whymper (see the back cover photo of the Mt Cook guidebook)." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "John McCartney, Sam Bosshard, Feb 1995" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/main-divide-of-the-southern-alps/brodrick-peak/west-face-of-brodrick-pk/north-buttress", "name": "North Buttress", "grade": "3+", "topo_ref": "NB", "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "3+", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "Climb the buttress at the head of the true right branch of the Whymper Glacier." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Dave McNulty, Ray Button and four NZMGA course participants, Mar 1986" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/main-divide-of-the-southern-alps/brodrick-peak/west-face-of-brodrick-pk/north-east-ridge", "name": "North East Ridge", "grade": "2-", "topo_ref": "NER", "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "2-", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "From Whataroa Saddle follow the rock and snow ridge of the Main Divide or snow slopes to\r\nthe south-east." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Will Kennedy, Jack Lippe, January 1917" } ], "places": [], "image": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/wide/public/image/Brodrick.png?itok=34NMqpeL", "images": [ { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/wide/public/image/Brodrick.png?itok=34NMqpeL", "height": "652", "width": "900" } ] } ], "image": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/wide/public/image/Brodrick_0.png?itok=pWP6_f21", "images": [ { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/wide/public/image/Brodrick_0.png?itok=pWP6_f21", "height": "652", "width": "900" } ] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki-tai-poutini/main-divide/mt-mannering": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki-tai-poutini/main-divide/mt-mannering", "name": "Mt Mannering", "altitude": "2669m", "access": null, "description": null, "latlng": [ "-43.486152", "170.402695" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki-tai-poutini/main-divide/mt-mannering/south-west-ridge", "name": "South West Ridge", "grade": null, "topo_ref": "SWR", "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "From Whataroa Saddle ascend snow and rock on the Main Divide, passing an overhang near the summit by using a gut nearby or turning to the north-west side. An alternative route from the saddle lies up the slopes on the western side, approaching the summit from the south-west." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Otto Frind, Conrad Kain, Mar 1914" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki-tai-poutini/main-divide/mt-mannering/west-face", "name": "West Face", "grade": null, "topo_ref": "WF", "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "From the Whataroa. Interesting rock slabs and snow patches." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Dave Bamford, John Nankervis, Grant Stotter, Richard Hancock, Feb 1977" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki-tai-poutini/main-divide/mt-mannering/east-rib", "name": "East Rib", "grade": null, "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "Gained from the Classen Glacier." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Keith McNaughton, John Gamlen, Jan 1967" } ], "places": [], "image": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/wide/public/image/Mannering.png?itok=bBP3UwLC", "images": [ { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/wide/public/image/Mannering.png?itok=bBP3UwLC", "height": "652", "width": "900" } ] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki/liebig-range/mt-biretta-priest%E2%80%99s-cap": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki/liebig-range/mt-biretta-priest%E2%80%99s-cap", "name": "Mt Biretta (Priest\u2019s Cap)", "altitude": "2665m", "access": null, "description": "tba", "latlng": [ "-43.687412", "170.246104" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki/liebig-range/mt-biretta-priest%E2%80%99s-cap/unnamed", "name": "Unnamed", "grade": null, "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "From the vicinity of Monastery Peak or near Nun\u2019s Veil." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Tom Fyfe, Malcolm Ross, Samuel Turner, Dec 1905" } ], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki/main-divide/mt-aurora": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki/main-divide/mt-aurora", "name": "Mt Aurora", "altitude": "2663m", "access": null, "description": "A small snow peak easily climbed via the north Divide ridge, or via the north-west snowslopes from Franz Josef N\u00e9v\u00e9.\nAlex Graham, B Marsden, Apr 1916.", "latlng": [ "-43.51926055", "170.2282595" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki/main-divide/mt-aurora/rudolf-glacier", "name": "From Rudolf Glacier", "grade": null, "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "As for the Rudolf Rib climb of Mt Frederick Gardiner, but once on the Main Divide head north up Aurora instead. Also see the Franz Josef Glacier section." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Mike Andrews, Bill King, Jan 1981." } ], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki/franz-josef-glacier-ka-roimata-o-hine-hukatere/mt-halcombe": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki/franz-josef-glacier-ka-roimata-o-hine-hukatere/mt-halcombe", "name": "Mt Halcombe", "altitude": "2659m", "access": null, "description": "tba", "latlng": [ "-43.51118411", "170.1882397" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki/franz-josef-glacier-ka-roimata-o-hine-hukatere/mt-halcombe/north-couloir", "name": "North Couloir", "grade": "3-", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "3-", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "A popular half-day outing rewarded with fantastic views of the Main Divide peaks and the Franz Josef N\u00e9v\u00e9. There are a number of routes. The easiest appears to be the narrow gully on the north side, accessed from the flat col west of the peak." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Alex Graham, Ebenezer Teichelmann, Henry Newton, Feb 1907 (Possibly via a different route)." }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki/franz-josef-glacier-ka-roimata-o-hine-hukatere/mt-halcombe/east-west-traverse", "name": "East-West Traverse", "grade": "3-", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "3-", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "From Christie follow the ridge to Halcombe." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Frank Alack, H K Douglas, Dec 1935 (Traversed both Christie and Halcombe)." }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki/franz-josef-glacier-ka-roimata-o-hine-hukatere/mt-halcombe/pioneer-face", "name": "Pioneer Face", "grade": "2+", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "2+", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "The broad snow face that can be seen from Pioneer Hut." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Anne Stocker, Franz Barta, Feb 1941." }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki/franz-josef-glacier-ka-roimata-o-hine-hukatere/mt-halcombe/pioneer-face-variant-1", "name": "Pioneer Face, Variant 1", "grade": null, "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "A short loose rock band to the west followed by snowslopes to the summit. Climbed from near the same col as the North Couloir." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": null }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki/franz-josef-glacier-ka-roimata-o-hine-hukatere/mt-halcombe/pioneer-face-variant-2", "name": "Pioneer Face Variant 2", "grade": "3", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "3", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "A good quality rock buttress on the Franz side of Halcombe offers a worthwhile three pitch route. The last pitch is desperately loose however, so rapping off is recommended." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Peter Taw, Alistair Byron, 1988." }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki/franz-josef-glacier-ka-roimata-o-hine-hukatere/mt-halcombe/blitzing-everywhere", "name": "Blitzing Everywhere", "grade": "4,III,M3", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": "4", "commitment": "III", "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": "M3", "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": null } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": "Up the S Bend coolie not described in guide book for two pitches of\nmixed(M3/4). Followed by 45-60 degree Snow/Ice for 100 m to true summit.\nRapped into and down main coolie (Very loose rock on descent). Not sure if\nthis has been climbed by another party before, no evidence of it to be found.", "ascent": "James Bultitude, Mike Mageropoulos, December 2012" } ], "places": [], "image": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/wide/public/image/S100-3476.jpg?itok=3izEr3RT", "images": [ { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/wide/public/image/S100-3476.jpg?itok=3izEr3RT", "height": "839", "width": "900" } ] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki/main-divide/mt-coronet": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki/main-divide/mt-coronet", "name": "Mt Coronet", "altitude": "2651m", "access": null, "description": null, "latlng": [ "-43.50160448", "170.298206" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki/main-divide/mt-coronet/tasman-glacier", "name": "From the Tasman Glacier", "grade": "4+", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "4+", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "From the Tasman Glacier, ascend the East Ridge up a snow and rock ridge until a broad plateau. From here ascend either to the summit direct or gain the ridge south of the summit. This is a good descent route." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Peter Graham, Claude Macdonald, Jim Murphy, Feb 1909." }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki/main-divide/mt-coronet/divide-ridge", "name": "Via the Divide Ridge", "grade": "2+", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "2+", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "Via the Divide Ridge from Climbers Col, ascend a mixed snow and ice ridge with rock of varying quality. Traverse any difficulties on the west." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Graham McCallum, H P Barcham, P C Gardiner, J B Waterhouse, Dec 1954" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki/main-divide/mt-coronet/edwards-face", "name": "Edwards Face", "grade": "2+", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "2+", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "Climb onto the Edwards Glacier n\u00e9v\u00e9 from the Spencer Glacier. From the n\u00e9v\u00e9 follow a prominent couloir onto the Divide to reach a small rock peak well south of Climbers Col. Follow the Divide south to Coronet." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Dave Bamford, Peter Fullerton, George Kendall, John Nankervis, Jan 1978." } ], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/%C5%8Dhau-landsborough/main-divide/mt-mckerrow": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/%C5%8Dhau-landsborough/main-divide/mt-mckerrow", "name": "Mt McKerrow", "altitude": "2650m", "access": null, "description": null, "latlng": null, "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/%C5%8Dhau-landsborough/main-divide/mt-mckerrow/east-ridge", "name": "East Ridge", "grade": "2", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "2", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": null } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": "From the ridge connecting to Black Tower (route 3.32), an easy snowslope\nleads to the summit of McKerrow, the third highest peak in the region covered\nby this guidebook.", "ascent": "Descended and ascended by Peter Beveridge, John Harrison, Wally Romanes and BrianWilliams, December 1955" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/%C5%8Dhau-landsborough/main-divide/mt-mckerrow/orinoco-flow", "name": "Orinoco Flow", "grade": "4", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "4", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": null } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": "Starting at the snow cone in the centre of the face under Mt McKerrow, climb\ndirectly to exit onto the upper snow field in line with the rock leading to\nthe summit. There is a short steep section at first then follow up short\nbulges and ramps until reaching snowfields beneath the rockrib. Follow up\nsnow on left of rock rib to the summit. 500 metres of ice on the lower shelf,\nand 500 m of snow slopes.", "ascent": "Bill McLeod, June 1993" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/%C5%8Dhau-landsborough/main-divide/mt-mckerrow/south-east-face", "name": "South East Face", "grade": "2", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "2", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": null } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": "A route from the Richardson Glacier to the upper section of the west ridge\navoids the schrunds above Mockery Col.", "ascent": "D Laurie, Lindsay Wood 1968" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/%C5%8Dhau-landsborough/main-divide/mt-mckerrow/south-ridge", "name": "South Ridge", "grade": "2", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "2", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": null } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": "From anywhere on the Arthur Glacier there is only one peak. It dominates the\nvalley completely, its long arms thrown around the head and along one side.\nIts snows feed and form the mile-long glacier. Spurs running off the great\nwestern ridge are truncated in huge bluffs. Cornices are palely blue, and the\nsummit shimmers four thousand feet above. It has all the majesty of Hopkins\ncombined with a lustrous beauty of its own. Bill Packard remarked wistfully\nthat McKerrow was a peak worth wooing, and I knew then that we were committed\nto the climb. Steve Brockett, New Zealand Alpine Journal 1947.\nFrom Mockery Col stay close to the ridge until the snowslopes are gained and\nproceed up the snowfield to the summit. Schrunds en route are turned on both\nwest and east sides.", "ascent": "Steve Brockett, Bill Packard January 1947" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/%C5%8Dhau-landsborough/main-divide/mt-mckerrow/north-west-ridge", "name": "North West Ridge", "grade": "2+", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "2+", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": null } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": "Begin at the Landsborough River near Bubble Creek and climb the tussock\nslopes, bypassing a bluffy section on the north side to reach the Beith\nGlacier. Ascend the rapidly narrowing glacier and sidle up the north-facing\nslope to the summit. A long climb, which requires over 1700m of height gain.", "ascent": "Conrad Kain, Samuel Turner, March 1914" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/%C5%8Dhau-landsborough/main-divide/mt-mckerrow/fortune-favours-bold", "name": "Fortune Favours the Bold", "grade": null, "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": "1100m line to the left of Orinoco Flow, simul-soloed.", "ascent": "James Edwards, Steven Fortune, Paul Warnock, August 2005" } ], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/main-divide-of-the-southern-alps/mt-whitcombe": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/main-divide-of-the-southern-alps/mt-whitcombe", "name": "Mt Whitcombe", "altitude": "2650m", "access": null, "description": "Southern Alps Ka Tiritiri O Te Moana.\nMt Whitcombe is a significant climb from any direction, being the highest peak on or west of the\nMain Divide in the region. Even the easier routes from the west, across the Leeb Glacier or via Snow\nDome, should not be taken for granted. Several parties have had difficulty getting off the peak on this\nside in mist and poor weather.\nSlabs tilted to the west and crevassed glaciers perched above huge bluffs characterise the western\nside of the Whitcombe Massif. From this side, the peaks are usually approached from the Bracken\nSnowfield, Evans River, or Vane Stream and the Hazard Glacier. The Buttress makes a fine sight from\nSmyth Hut, with ice-serac teeth crowning parts of it.", "latlng": [ "-43.21602478", "170.91230063" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/main-divide-of-the-southern-alps/mt-whitcombe/leviathan", "name": "Leviathan", "grade": "5", "topo_ref": "Ln", "image": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/route/023.JPG?itok=cmuGxvsv", "images": [ { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/route/023.JPG?itok=cmuGxvsv", "height": "325", "width": "244" } ], "length": "1300m", "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "5", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": "1300m", "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "This was the first winter ascent of the Ramsay Face of the Whitcombe massif and, given good\r\nice conditions, may be the route on the face least prone to debris fall. It is a 1300-metre climb\r\ntaking a line just left of the Original Route. Follow and link snow shelves with three ice steps,\r\nthe third one being the crux. The climbing is direct until a slight jog to the right near the top.\r\nFinish just right of the low peak, although a hard direct finish may be available." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": "Also known as the Ramsay Face. See\nhttp://climber.co.nz/83/feature/four-aspects-compass-eastern-promise", "ascent": "Guy McKinnon July 2007" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/main-divide-of-the-southern-alps/mt-whitcombe/original-ramsay-face-route", "name": "Original Ramsay face Route", "grade": "5", "topo_ref": "OR", "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "5", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "From the lower reaches of the Ramsay moraine the route takes a fairly prominent buttress\r\nrunning directly to the low peak of Mt Whitcombe. Start on easy scree ledges which become\r\nprogressively steeper with height \u2013 the last 60 metres below the summit is almost vertical. The\r\nrock is extremely rotten and subsequent rock fall has altered the route. This line has not been\r\nrepeated due to its objective danger." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Mike Gill, Ian Cave, John Nicholls, Phil Houghton, February 1962" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/main-divide-of-the-southern-alps/mt-whitcombe/middle-peak-route", "name": "Middle Peak Route", "grade": null, "topo_ref": "MP", "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "From the Ramsay Glacier, take the obvious loose rock rib leading directly to the middle peak\r\nsummit. Another route subject to constant rock fall." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "John Stanton, Bryan Pooley, March 1972" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/main-divide-of-the-southern-alps/mt-whitcombe/north-east-ridge", "name": "North East Ridge", "grade": "2+", "topo_ref": "NE", "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "2+", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "The original route on Mt Whitcombe was first climbed on what was planned as a bad weather\r\nreconnaissance. To reach the route from Erewhon Col, either climb over Erewhon Peak, staying\r\nmore or less on the ridge, or sidle and drop down to the glacier (to about 2000 metres) on the\r\nnorth-west side of the Erewhon Col\u2013Erewhon Peak ridge. Follow a glacial lead up to the col at\r\n2330 metres between Mt Whitcombe and Erewhon Peak. The first part of the North East Ridge\r\nis a short, exposed, narrow ar\u00eate, which can be climbed directly or bypassed on rock to the west.\r\nFrom here, stay on the crest of the ridge to the summit. The climbing is straightforward and the\r\nrock is generally okay. Descend the same way, or via Menace Gap, or over Snow Dome (can be\r\ntricky with no snow coverage)." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Roger Chester, Alan Willis, Bill Mirams, December 1931" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/main-divide-of-the-southern-alps/mt-whitcombe/low-peak-west-side", "name": "Low Peak, West side", "grade": "2-", "topo_ref": "LWs", "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "2-", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "Accessed from the head of the Lornty Glacier." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Graham McCallum and Beryl Matthews climbed a small peak just north of Mt Roberts, which may have been this peak, at Easter 1951." }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/main-divide-of-the-southern-alps/mt-whitcombe/middle-peak-west-side", "name": "Middle Peak, West side", "grade": "2-", "topo_ref": "MWs", "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "2-", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "Accessed from the head of the Leeb Glacier. The first ascent party approached from Erewhon\r\nCol via the north ridge of Snow Dome, climbing the high peak of Whitcombe before dropping\r\nonto the Leeb Glacier for a simple snow and rock climb to the Middle Peak." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Alec Whitten-Hannah, Maurice Bishop, 1951" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/main-divide-of-the-southern-alps/mt-whitcombe/high-peak-vane-stream-leeb-glacier", "name": "High Peak, From Vane Stream via Leeb Glacier", "grade": "2-", "topo_ref": "LG", "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "2-", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "Above the Essex flat in Vane Stream, continue on the true left. Go a little way up the Wilberg\r\ntributary before climbing the spur between the Wilberg and the stream draining Pt 1811 metres\r\nto the 1420-metre contour, then sidle into the Hazard Valley. Climb the snow slope leading\r\nto the Dainty Glacier, cross the Dainty to 1880 metres and gain the rock rib north. It is best\r\nto descend to the Lornty as soon as is practical. To gain the Leeb Glacier, aim for snow slopesbetween a loose rock pinnacle and a rock bluff extending up to the Divide. From the Leeb, the\r\nwest ridge of Snow Dome can be accessed at 2240 metres or, more normally, climb snow slopes\r\nbetween Snow Dome and Whitcombe. A schrund usually cuts this slope off later in summer,\r\nand other schrunds appear on the ridge itself, but both peaks are otherwise easily accessible." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Roger Chester, Alan Willis, Bill Mirams (descended to Menace Gap), December 1931 Dave Clark, Philip Castle, Rob Munster (from the Wanganui and Vane Stream), March 1978" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/main-divide-of-the-southern-alps/mt-whitcombe/evans-river-snow-dome", "name": "From Evans River via Snow Dome", "grade": "2-", "topo_ref": "vSD", "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "2-", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "From J34 374757 / BW18 275 140, head east up a dry gravel stream to the 1800-metre contour and\r\ncontinue to the ridge due north of Snow Dome. This ridge can also be accessed at 1840 metres\r\nfrom a glacier under Erewhon Peak. Diagonal back south-west through a minor band of bluffs\r\nat J34 397755 / BW18 297 139 to snow slopes and continue to Snow Dome as conditions dictate.\r\nFrom Snow Dome a broad snow ridge (often cut with slots later in the season) leads down and\r\nup to Whitcombe." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": null }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/main-divide-of-the-southern-alps/mt-whitcombe/north-face", "name": "North Face", "grade": "3-", "topo_ref": "NF", "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "3-", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "Climbed when the face was snow-covered. Begin in the left-hand snow cone and climb steep\r\nsnow gullies to finish closer to the high peak." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Brede Arkless, Alison Douglass, Gilda Otway, Jeana Waibl, November 2003" } ], "places": [], "image": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/wide/public/image/whitcombe.png?itok=YPbhkC8s", "images": [ { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/wide/public/image/whitcombe.png?itok=YPbhkC8s", "height": "583", "width": "900" }, { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/image/whitcome1_0.png?itok=RhNSK14N", "height": "214", "width": "325" }, { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/image/whitcombe2.png?itok=93ZeJ9gN", "height": "208", "width": "325" } ] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki/fritz-range/triad-pk": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki/fritz-range/triad-pk", "name": "Triad Pk", "altitude": "2649m", "access": null, "description": null, "latlng": [ "-43.520151", "170.20062" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki/fritz-range/triad-pk/north-flank", "name": "North Flank", "grade": "3,II", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": "3", "commitment": "II", "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": null } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": "Steep rock scrambling from West Hoe Pass.", "ascent": "First ascent unknown" } ], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki/main-divide/vampire-pk": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki/main-divide/vampire-pk", "name": "Vampire Pk", "altitude": "2645m", "access": null, "description": null, "latlng": [ "-43.74156988", "169.9963544" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki/main-divide/vampire-pk/welchman-glacier-and-bernard-col", "name": "Via Welchman Glacier and Bernard Col", "grade": "2-", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "2-", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "Via the Welchman Glacier and Bernard Col, follow north along rotten rock on the Main Divide. It is also possible to drop down to the west and use the North West Ridge." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Peter Graham, Samuel Turner, March 1914" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki/main-divide/vampire-pk/bannie-glacier-and-christopher-col", "name": "Via Bannie Glacier and Christopher Col", "grade": "2+", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "2+", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "Via the Bannie Glacier and Christopher Col, then south over and around rotten rock towers on the Main Divide." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Harold Porter, Vic Williams, January 1936" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki/main-divide/vampire-pk/south-ridge", "name": "South Ridge", "grade": "2-", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "2-", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": null } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": "From Bernard Col climb north along the rock on the Main Divide. An\nalternative is to drop down to the west and climb the north-west ridge.", "ascent": "Peter Graham, Samuel Turner, March 1914" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki/main-divide/vampire-pk/christopher-col", "name": "From Christopher Col", "grade": "2-", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "2-", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": null } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": "Climb over and around the rotten rock towers to reach the peak.", "ascent": "Ned Porter, Vic Williams, January 1936" } ], "places": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/main-divide-of-the-southern-alps/vampire-pk/south-east-face", "name": "South East Face", "altitude": null, "access": null, "description": "South East Face of Vampire Peak", "latlng": null, "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/main-divide-of-the-southern-alps/vampire-pk/south-east-face/notforustwo", "name": "Notforustwo", "grade": "5", "topo_ref": "1", "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "5", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "Vampire\u2019s left fang. The line starts beside a big block, then weaves through to a prominent pillar in a gully, then straight up to the top of the South Peak." } ], "quality": 1, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Allan Uren, Davie Robinson, November 1995" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/main-divide-of-the-southern-alps/vampire-pk/south-east-face/far-madding-crowd", "name": "Far From The Madding Crowd", "grade": "5-", "topo_ref": "2", "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "5-", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "Ascend the obvious deep, broad gully to the left of the summit for 12 rope lengths." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Geoff Gabites, Colin Monteath, Hugh Nicholson, June 1988" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/main-divide-of-the-southern-alps/vampire-pk/south-east-face/nosferatu", "name": "Nosferatu", "grade": "6-", "topo_ref": "3", "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "6-", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "Follow the gully which starts on the left side of the lowest rock buttress beneath the summit. The climb eases back after five rope lengths. Further up an obvious snow ramp leads left to gain the main summit gully. Follow this up to exit 30 metres left of the summit. Fifteen rope lengths in all. Descend via the snow ramp NE of Burns." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Brian Alder, Bill McLeod, July 1993" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/main-divide-of-the-southern-alps/vampire-pk/south-east-face/bram-stoker", "name": "Bram Stoker", "grade": "5-", "topo_ref": "4", "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "5-", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "An obvious deep cut gully that starts just right of the lowest point of rock beneath Vampire. Well up the face the gully ends, but the route continues tending left. Exit on the ridge just beneath summit tower. Eleven rope lengths." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Andy MacFarlane, Bill McLeod, September 1993" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/main-divide-of-the-southern-alps/vampire-pk/south-east-face/swiss-virgins", "name": "Swiss Virgins", "grade": "4+", "topo_ref": "5", "image": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/routes/Vampire-SE_Face.jpg?itok=yX6otVHp", "images": [ { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/routes/Vampire-SE_Face.jpg?itok=yX6otVHp", "height": "189", "width": "325" }, { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/route/Vampire-SE_Face%20WRONG.jpg?itok=eXudWNC7", "height": "189", "width": "325" } ], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "4+", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "Ascend a couloir right of Bram Stoker for six rope lengths to reach the Divide north of the summit." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Carol Nash, Rob Blackburne, October 1983" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/main-divide-of-the-southern-alps/vampire-pk/south-east-face/single-and-searching", "name": "Single and Searching", "grade": "6,V,WI5,M6", "topo_ref": null, "image": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/routes/Single%20and%20Searching.jpg?itok=bQE_Fmm2", "images": [ { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/routes/Single%20and%20Searching.jpg?itok=bQE_Fmm2", "height": "244", "width": "325" } ], "length": "500m", "pitches": [ { "alpine": "6", "commitment": "V", "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": "WI5", "mixed": "M6", "length": "500m", "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": null } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": "Start up 'Far from the maddening crowd' a few pitches, to where the angle kicks back, then at the first opportunity, break up the right hand wall, aiming for the obvious ice hose spilling down the steep cliffs near the summit. Climb initially thin curtains of ice to easier angle ground. Continue up past another crux (thin pillar), which on the FA was bypassed by tenuous mixed climbing on the right - with a dry tooling traverse back left to rejoin the gully just above the pillar - then continue up good WI2 - 3 to the base of the hanging crux pillar on the headwall. Mixed climbing to M6 for a few metres on the right, then step left onto the pillar and continue up with angle gradually easing to WI4. The first 10m of this pitch were rope soloed on the first ascent (otherwise ropeless). Continue up steep water ice then steep snow slopes to top out shortly SW of the summit. On FA, Descent was by downclimbing snow slopes/gullies on W face vampire, then walking to Bernard Col and downclimbing the couloir and snow slopes back to the base of Vampire. See NZAJ 2020 for details.", "ascent": "Ruari Macfarlane, July 27 2020" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/main-divide-of-the-southern-alps/vampire-pk/south-east-face/twilight", "name": "Twilight", "grade": "WI3", "topo_ref": null, "image": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/routes/Twilight_Vampire-SE_Face_LI.jpg?itok=cv1jgQqR", "images": [ { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/routes/Twilight_Vampire-SE_Face_LI.jpg?itok=cv1jgQqR", "height": "189", "width": "325" } ], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": "WI3", "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": null } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": "7 pitchs to WI3, topping out on the ridge and rapping the route. Sometimes thin ice during the first ascent.", "ascent": "Mark Evans, Ruari Macfarlane, July 26, 2020" } ], "places": [], "image": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/wide/public/image/Vampire-SE_Face.jpg?itok=kQfDviPL", "images": [ { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/wide/public/image/Vampire-SE_Face.jpg?itok=kQfDviPL", "height": "346", "width": "596" }, { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/image/Vampire1%202008-10_Page_13_0.jpg?itok=mvAIVVBh", "height": "325", "width": "230" }, { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/image/Vampire1%202008-10_Page_28_0.jpg?itok=rF4Ro6ur", "height": "325", "width": "306" } ] } ], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/%C5%8Dhau-landsborough/main-divide/mt-ward": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/%C5%8Dhau-landsborough/main-divide/mt-ward", "name": "Mt Ward", "altitude": "2645m", "access": null, "description": "A dominant but accessible peak, Mt Ward attracts many climbers with its variety of routes and its striking appearance from almost all perspectives. Mt Ward offers appealing climbs in summer and winter on faces and ridges.", "latlng": [ "-43.86667277", "169.83426137" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/%C5%8Dhau-landsborough/main-divide/mt-ward/north-face", "name": "North Face", "grade": "3", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "3", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": null } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": "\"The day was too good to return by the way we had come, so we started down\nthe steep shaley face to the north of Ward. Were this less rotten, the\nclimbing would be exceptionally fine.\" Scott Russell, Christopher Johnson,\nNew Zealand Alpine Journal, 1935. Very few people have ventured around to\nexamine the north buttress or steep north face of Mt Ward since 1934.", "ascent": "Descended by Jim Dawson, Christopher Johnson, Scott Russell December 1934" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/%C5%8Dhau-landsborough/main-divide/mt-ward/east-ridge", "name": "East Ridge", "grade": "3", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "3", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": null } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": "From the Hopkins Valley opposite the Dodger Fan, climb through the beech\nforest to reach the east ridge. The route stays close to the ridge crest\nthroughout. The first ascent party reported reasonable quality rock as the\nroute steepened and narrowed near the top, but subsequent ascentionists have\ndisagreed with that assessment. Alternative access is from the head of the\nNorth Elcho, or from Thomson Stream. To low summit, Selwyn Grave, Neil Markham,\nScott Russell, Edgar Williams, 1933. First east-west traverse, Des Beatty,\nAlan McNaught, Jim McNulty, Ray Slater, April 1956.", "ascent": "First complete ascent, SelwynGrave, E.A.Hogg, Edgar Williams January 1934" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/%C5%8Dhau-landsborough/main-divide/mt-ward/south-east-face", "name": "South East Face", "grade": "4", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "4", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": null } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": "The triangular south east face of Ward contains several obvious ice routes in\nwinter. From the head of the North Elcho Stream reach the face by ascending a\nsteep couloir and crossing the snowslope of the Elcho Glacier to reach the\nmajor ice gully. Follow the moderate angled ice and snow for16 pitches to\nreach the ridge 200m east of the high peak. The first ascent party descended\npart of the east ridge before 'powder eighting' down the lee snowslopes to\nthe North Elcho - the original access route for the East ridge.", "ascent": "Rob Blackburne, Ross Cullen August 1981" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/%C5%8Dhau-landsborough/main-divide/mt-ward/great-dane", "name": "Great Dane", "grade": "5-", "topo_ref": null, "image": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/route/greatdane.jpg?itok=p8ESdb7o", "images": [ { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/route/greatdane.jpg?itok=p8ESdb7o", "height": "188", "width": "325" } ], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "5-", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": null } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": "A 12 pitch climb that commences on a snowslope 100m right of the\nBlackburne-Cullen line. Climb through some mixed terrain to a right leaning\nsnowslope, from there a series of ice runnels lead straight up linking with\nthe terrain at the top of Blackburne-Cullen route. Descended by downclimbing\nthe north east face and onto Foster Glacier, with one abseil into North\nElcho.", "ascent": "Kynan Bazely, Paul Hersey, August 2004" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/%C5%8Dhau-landsborough/main-divide/mt-ward/south-face", "name": "South Face", "grade": "3", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "3", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": null } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": "\"This face - really the neve of the Baker Glacier - is remarkable in that it\nnot only feeds the Baker but also sends down avalanches to the Elcho Glacier\non the other side of the Divide. At the head of the ice face a pleasant\ninterlude was provided by turning the overhanging lip of a schrund, after\nwhich a short climb on slabby rocks brought us to the summit of Mt Ward at\n9.30 a.m.\" Scott Russell, Christopher Johnson, New Zealand Alpine Journal,\n1935.\nMt Ward is a dominant peak in the valley and the south face amongst the most\nenticing climbs. From Elcho Col sidle past Mts Baker and Dundas before\ncramponing up the steepening south face. One crevasse bisects the upper part\nof the Baker Glacier. A steep long pitch up a rocky gully leads to a low\npoint on the summit ridge 300 m west of the high point.\nA variation on this climb is to travel leftward after crossing the crevasse\non the face and climb a 2-3 pitch rock buttress to reach the ridge crest\napproximately 500m west of the summit. Protection is reported to be sparse on\nthe shattered rock.", "ascent": "Jim Dawson, Christopher Johnson, Scott Russell, November 1934" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/%C5%8Dhau-landsborough/main-divide/mt-ward/west-buttress", "name": "West Buttress", "grade": "16,4-", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "4-", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": "16", "description": "The west buttress provides a steep rock climb which culminates on the west end of the near horizontal summit ridge. The route begins as per 3.55 then sidles around exposed western snow slopes on the Baker Glacier. Grade 16 rock climbing." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Stu Allan, Kevin Boekholt, Don Bogie, Kim Logan, Dave Walsh March 1985." }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/%C5%8Dhau-landsborough/main-divide/mt-ward/north-west-chimney", "name": "North West Chimney", "grade": "12,3+,III", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": "3+", "commitment": "III", "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": "12", "description": null } ], "quality": 1, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": "The north-west chimney provides an excellent rock route onto the west end of the summit ridge and is a big day from Elcho Stream. From Elcho Pass, traverse Barker Pk and Mt Dundas, then sidle around the toe of the west ridge on exposed snow or scree slopes. (Alternatively, drop into the McKerrow Creek basin and climb out at BY14 437 381.) Climb the western icefield to the col between Mt Ward and a subsidiary peak to the north-west. Superb steep rock for 70m eases off as the western shoulder is reached (can be descended in three 25m abseils). The ridge across to the eastern summit has been described both as \u2018wide enough to take a bus\u2019 and \u2018overhung on both sides\u2019, which are not mutually exclusive descriptions. Mt Ward is a steep mountain but the near horizontal summit ridge provides good access to the high point.", "ascent": "Norman Hardie, Jim McFarlane, April 1948" } ], "places": [], "image": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/wide/public/image/_DSC8430.jpeg?itok=7hiirgo3", "images": [ { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/wide/public/image/_DSC8430.jpeg?itok=7hiirgo3", "height": "687", "width": "1090" } ] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aspiring/west-wanaka-mountains/rob-roy-pk": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aspiring/west-wanaka-mountains/rob-roy-pk", "name": "Rob Roy Pk", "altitude": "2644m", "access": "Access to head of Rob Roy Stream and climbing routes: Above the bushline continue on the true left bank of Rob Roy Stream through light scrub and tussock, keeping 100m above the stream. After crossing a washed-out stream bed follow around terraces until a small silty flat is reached. From here find a convenient place to descend to the avalanche-threatened Rob Roy Glacier. During the summer the avalanche hazard comes from the glaciers above and in the winter from large gullies dropping from Homestead Peak. A broad spur to the left of the large gully dropping from Homestead Peak is then climbed which ends up merging with the snowfield underneath the Homestead Peak and Rob Roy Col.", "description": "Rob Roy is a mountain pushed up by the tectonic plates and in the process given multiple birth defects. Ridges and faces don\u2019t come together with the symmetry of Aspiring and climbers shy away from the hunch-backed summit. Despite appearances however, the mountain has a magnetism and a wonderful array of varied and interesting routes. The first ascent, from the West Matukituki and the Rob Roy Glacier, was on March 2, 1935, when the mountain was overwhelmed by the sheer weight of numbers of a party consisting of Ernie Smith, Monty McClymont, Cedric Benzoni, Bob Fullerton, George Palmer, Don Divers, Russell Edwards, George Edwards, and Gordon Edwards.", "latlng": [ "-44.45136059", "168.72267762" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aspiring/west-wanaka-mountains/rob-roy-pk/east-ridge", "name": "East Ridge", "grade": "3,IV", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": "0m", "pitches": [ { "alpine": "3", "commitment": "IV", "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": null } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": "0", "natural_pro": false, "description": "Although tantalising glimpses of the East Ridge can be seen from the West Matukituki it was not until January 10, 1963, that the ridge was climbed via a traverse from a bivvy at the head of Rob Roy Stream.\nThe ridge rises from the Homestead-Rob Roy Col in two prominent steps. The lower one forms a triangular face with the snow shelf beneath giving access to the Avalanche Glacier. The route traverses this shelf to a point from which the north edge of the triangular face can be gained. This edge provides enjoyable climbing on steep rock, but it could be avoided by traversing the ledge further towards the Avalanche Glacier, where a snow route allows a return to the ridge above the first step.\nThere is a variation on the left side of the first rock step up an ill defined gully involving grade 15 rockclimbing on sound rock. The second step, although loose and exposed, is straightforward, as is the rest of the mixed rock and snow ridge to the Low Peak, about five hours from the col. The traverse to the High Peak commences with a gentle descent on an easy snow ar\u00eate until the ridge is blocked by a large gendarme. This is turned on the west side and beyond it 100-200 metres of exposed but technically straightforward rock lead to the snow cone of the high peak, two to three hours from the low peak. Slings and pitons would be the protection of choice for the traverse.\nThe traverse from the foot of the East Ridge to Aspiring Hut via the High Peak and route 8 has been completed in 13 hours.", "ascent": "Tony Bowden, Graham Bishop, January 1963" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aspiring/west-wanaka-mountains/rob-roy-pk/south-ridge-and-rob-roy-glacier", "name": "South Ridge and Rob Roy Glacier", "grade": "1,III", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": "0m", "pitches": [ { "alpine": "1", "commitment": "III", "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": null } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": "0", "natural_pro": false, "description": "Across the Matukituki and slightly downstream from Wilson\u2019s Camp there is a large avalanche gully which in winters of high snow fall deposits debris in the valley floor. This gully gives fast and unimpeded travel to above the bush line. There is a small waterfall at the bottom but this is easily negotiated on the true left on a deer trail. Most parties attempting this route have bivvied at 1600 metres, before crossing the ridge to gain the broad crevassed snowfields of the Rob Roy Glacier. These provide a staightforward route, on a rising traverse, to the high peak.\nThere may be a large schrund below the summit. The climb can take 10\u201311 hours from the valley floor and is a comfortable weekend trip from the Raspberry Flat carpark. The round trip from carpark to carpark taking in the High Peak-Low Peak traverse and down the Rob Roy stream has been accomplished during one long hot summers day.", "ascent": "E Smith, M McClymont, C Benzoni, B Fullerton, G Palmer, D Divers, R Edwards, G Edwards, G Edwards, March 1935" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aspiring/west-wanaka-mountains/rob-roy-pk/north-west-ridge", "name": "North West Ridge", "grade": "III,2", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": "0m", "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": "III", "mtcook": "2", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": null } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": "0", "natural_pro": false, "description": "Follow route to the col on the rib running down from the West Face. The snowfields to the north are easily traversed, climbing steadily towards a prominent col on the North West Ridge. Above the latter col the ridge is steep and slabby but consists of sound rock. The first two or three pitches are the most difficult and involve two awkward steps, both of which are turned over the Maud Francis Glacier. Above them the angle eases and the remainder of the ridge is straightforward rock and snow, leading to the summit ridge about 150m south of the high peak. The climb takes about five hours from the col on the rib from the West Face to the summit.", "ascent": null }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aspiring/west-wanaka-mountains/rob-roy-pk/north-face", "name": "North Face", "grade": "III,2+", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": "0m", "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": "III", "mtcook": "2+", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": null } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": "0", "natural_pro": false, "description": "The expanse of the North Face dominates the view of Rob Roy from French Ridge. Although tantalisingly close across the slot of Gloomy Gorge, the only practicable access is via the Maud Francis Glacier. Follow route 14 across the upper slopes of the Maud Francis Glacier and continue until more or less beneath the High Peak. Access to the face is by a prominent snow chute, above which snow and ice leads are followed to reach the summit ridge about 50m north of the High Peak. The nature of the route can vary considerably depending on conditions. The first party took about two hours from the n\u00e9v\u00e9 to the summit.", "ascent": "Bruce Robertson, Laurie Kennedy, December 1975" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aspiring/west-wanaka-mountains/rob-roy-pk/north-ridge", "name": "North Ridge", "grade": "IV,3", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": "0m", "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": "IV", "mtcook": "3", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": null } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": "0", "natural_pro": false, "description": "The North Ridge leads to the Low Peak (2609m) which is separated by a long airy summit ridge from the High Peak (2644m).\nFrom French Ridge climb the Quarterdeck to the Bonar and then descend the Flightdeck to reach the Maud Francis Glacier. Cross the n\u00e9v\u00e9 to gain the North Ridge where it begins to steepen towards the Low Peak and follow the crest to the summit. Time from the hut to the summit is about nine hours.", "ascent": "Paul Powell, Frank Cooper, December 1954" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aspiring/west-wanaka-mountains/rob-roy-pk/north-east-face", "name": "North East Face", "grade": "2,II", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": "0m", "pitches": [ { "alpine": "2", "commitment": "II", "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": null } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": "0", "natural_pro": false, "description": "The North East Face above the Avalanche Glacier appears to be a straightforward snow route and can be reached either from the head of Rob Roy Stream, or from French Ridge by crossing the divide between the Maud Francis and Avalanche Glaciers at its lowest point. It has potential as a rapid escape route from Low Peak.", "ascent": null }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aspiring/west-wanaka-mountains/rob-roy-pk/bonar-glacier-rob-roy-stream-traverse", "name": "Bonar Glacier\u2013Rob Roy Stream Traverse", "grade": "1,III", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": "0m", "pitches": [ { "alpine": "1", "commitment": "III", "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": null } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": "0", "natural_pro": false, "description": "This traverse, taking in the Maud Francis and Avalanche Glaciers and Rob Roy Stream is a way of walking out from climbing in the Mt Aspiring region and avoiding the walk down the Matukituki Valley. From the Bonar descend the Flightdeck and traverse around the Maud Francis and cross the ridge between Mt Avalanche and Rob Roy near the middle. Then continue down and around the Avalanche Glacier and link up with the snow shelf which runs underneath the East Ridge of Rob Roy. Use the access route for the head of Rob Roy Stream in reverse from the Rob Roy-Homestead col. The Avalanche Glacier may be a tangle of decomposed ice near the end of the summer and require more time than advised. Usual times are: Bonar to Homestead Col, 6\u20138 hours and Homestead Col to carpark, 4\u20135 hours.", "ascent": null }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aspiring/west-wanaka-mountains/rob-roy-pk/south-west-ridge", "name": "South West Ridge", "grade": "14,III,3", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": "0m", "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": "III", "mtcook": "3", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": "14", "description": "" } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": "0", "natural_pro": false, "description": "This route climbs the South West Ridge to the pyramid peak east of the low peak. Steep rock (iced or grade 14) followed by a snow ar\u00eate.", "ascent": "Phil Penney, Simon Harris, November 1998" } ], "places": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aspiring/rob-roy-peak/the-south-face-0", "name": "South Face", "altitude": null, "access": "From Rob Roy Col there are several options to gain the foot of the South Face.\n\nClimb most of the way up the ridge separating the Little South Face (the Little South Face is the triangular face with the East Ridge on its right hand edge) and the South Face then descend to the glacier. Be aware that the small ice cliff clinging to the face down and right of the Low peak is active and deposits debris all the way down to the lower glacier. \nThe Little South Face has a number of interesting gully lines on it which give a challenging start at about grade 4. \nClimb the East Ridge to the top of the second step avoiding the first rock step and descend SE Corner Route.", "description": "", "latlng": null, "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aspiring/rob-roy-peak/south-face-0/original-line", "name": "Original Line", "grade": "V,5", "topo_ref": "1", "image": null, "images": [], "length": "0m", "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": "V", "mtcook": "5", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": null } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": "0", "natural_pro": false, "description": "The route on the face follows the well-defined rib that falls from right to left from the summit. Two broad gullies lying to the left of this rib are swept frequently by ice avalanches from the cliffs above. Cross the schrund to the right of the foot of the rib. The foot of the rib is very steep and it is climbed on its eastern flank, where about 300m of fairly sustained rock climbing leads to the crest. Steep snow and ice (rock later in the summer) provide straightforward climbing for the next 300m. A small overhang on the rib is climbed directly, beyond which steep ice patches lead to the final snow and ice slopes beneath the summit. The initial party, with a rope of three, spent about 10 hours on the face.", "ascent": "Bob Cunninghame, Limbo Thompson, Pete Glasson, December 1972" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aspiring/rob-roy-peak/the-south-face-0/zone", "name": "The Zone", "grade": "V,5", "topo_ref": "2", "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": "V", "mtcook": "5", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "\u201cOk, so if Craig peels off making this move over that bulge, that piton\u2019s gonna pull along with the stake right out of this manky snow. Which leaves Craig, Gareth and I fast accelerating to the glacier two hundred metres below. \u201cYeah Man you\u2019re looking solid. Charge it!\u201d\r\n\r\nSo the dialogue went between the lads trying to access the South Face via the ridge bisecting the Little South Face and route 2. They managed not to fall off and went on to climb a route on the South Face between the original summer route and A Couple of Days, finishing as for the summer route. The lower part of the route was sustained steep ice. Overall length 9 pitches." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Craig Jefferies, Steve Moffat & Gareth Sharp, June 1999." }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aspiring/rob-roy-peak/south-face-0/south-east-corner", "name": "South East Corner", "grade": "III,2", "topo_ref": "3", "image": null, "images": [], "length": "0m", "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": "III", "mtcook": "2", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": null } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": "0", "natural_pro": false, "description": "This route is very difficult to access due to the \u2018great glacial recession\u2019. This route has become more of a way of accessing the South Face than a climb. The South East corner is a fifty five degree, prominent snow and ice tongue leading up to the East Ridge, below and right of the low peak. The route follows the snow and ice leads, with a steeper section of about 150 metres of rock in the middle, before more snow leads out to the ridge about 100 metres below the low peak. In the winter this is all snow. This was used as the access route to the upper n\u00e9v\u00e9 for the ascent of the South Face route. Moore\u2019s time from the n\u00e9v\u00e9 to the ridge was about one hour.", "ascent": "Pete Moore, early December 1972" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aspiring/rob-roy-peak/south-face-0/couple-days", "name": "A Couple of Days", "grade": "VI,5", "topo_ref": "4", "image": null, "images": [], "length": "0m", "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": "VI", "mtcook": "5", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": null } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": "0", "natural_pro": false, "description": "This is an all ice route climbed in late winter. A gully on the Little South Face\nwas climbed, 10 pitches of grade 4 and then route 2 was descended into the\nupper n\u00e9v\u00e9 to access the main South Face. The route on the South Face takes a series of ill defined gullies right of the summer route. After about 6 pitches there is a sixty five degree snowslope, 2 pitches. Three pitches from the summit a steep rock corner is climbed on ice with good rock protection. This leads onto a steep ar\u00eate then up a gully and onto the summit snow slopes finishing just right of the summit. Sixty metre ropes were used. Three bivvies were had, one at the base of the Little South Face, another in the bergschrund at the bottom of the South Face and one on the Maud Francis Glacier.", "ascent": "Dave Vass, Allan Uren, September 1997" } ], "places": [], "image": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/wide/public/image/RobRoy_South_fmt.jpeg?itok=DOS-t2AZ", "images": [ { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/wide/public/image/RobRoy_South_fmt.jpeg?itok=DOS-t2AZ", "height": "291", "width": "413" } ] }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aspiring/west-wanaka-mountains/rob-roy-pk/west-face", "name": "West Face", "altitude": null, "access": null, "description": "The West Face was initially descended by Paul Powell and Frank Cooper in 1954, and again by Tony Bowden and Graham Bishop in 1963. The first ascent was not until 1964 when Don Morrison and Peter Child climbed it from Shovel Flat. Four variations are available on the face.", "latlng": null, "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aspiring/rob-roy-peak/the-west-face-0/west-face-variant", "name": "West Face Variant", "grade": "III,2", "topo_ref": "1", "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": "III", "mtcook": "2", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "Climb steep snow for three pitches, followed by three moderate pitches to a gap in the South West Ridge. Then cross to the top of a hanging glacier to meet the previous route" } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": null }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aspiring/rob-roy-peak/the-west-face-0/aspiring-hut", "name": "From Aspiring Hut", "grade": "III,2", "topo_ref": "2", "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": "III", "mtcook": "2", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "From Aspiring Hut cross to the east bank of the Matukituki and from the head of the flats climb through the bush into the tussock and snow basins above. The ice cliffs of a small hanging glacier, visible from the hut, are turned on the east, before easy snow and finally slabby rock lead out to the South Ridge about one kilometre south of the High Peak." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Don Morrison & Peter Child. 1964." }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aspiring/rob-roy-peak/west-face-0/shovel-flat", "name": "From Shovel Flat", "grade": "2,III", "topo_ref": "3", "image": null, "images": [], "length": "0m", "pitches": [ { "alpine": "2", "commitment": "III", "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": null } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": "0", "natural_pro": false, "description": "Use route A5 described in the access route section to access the face from Shovel Flat. The rib to the north is crossed at an easy col (1950m) and is then followed up on snowfields on the north side. Access to the steeper upper snowfield may be complicated by a short rock step. The rib eventually merges into the face, from which point steep but easy slabs lead out to the summit ridge about one kilometre south of the High Peak. Both this and the previous route are long climbs from the valley floor and would probably be more enjoyable from a camp above the bushline.", "ascent": null }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aspiring/west-wanaka-mountains/rob-roy-pk/west-face/west-face-variant", "name": "West Face Variant", "grade": "2,III", "topo_ref": "4", "image": null, "images": [], "length": "0m", "pitches": [ { "alpine": "2", "commitment": "III", "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": null } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": "0", "natural_pro": false, "description": "A steep, broad gully splits the face offering eight to ten pitches of excellent snow climbing. Subject to mid-summer slab avalanches. It is a mixed climb in the late summer.", "ascent": null } ], "places": [], "image": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/wide/public/image/RobRoy_W_fmt.jpeg?itok=HKmwpDei", "images": [ { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/wide/public/image/RobRoy_W_fmt.jpeg?itok=HKmwpDei", "height": "481", "width": "320" } ] } ], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/c58dhau-landsborough/hooker-range/mt-dechen": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/c58dhau-landsborough/hooker-range/mt-dechen", "name": "Mt Dechen", "altitude": "2643m", "access": null, "description": null, "latlng": [ "-43.79692212", "169.75587556" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/c58dhau-landsborough/hooker-range/mt-dechen/east-face", "name": "East Face", "grade": "2,III", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": "0m", "pitches": [ { "alpine": "2", "commitment": "III", "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": null } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": "0", "natural_pro": false, "description": "From the Landsborough, climb the spur on the north side of Dechen Creek through bush to reach the Dechen Glacier. Thead through crevasses to the ill-defined south ridge and on to the summit.", "ascent": "Norman Hardie, Jim McFarlane, January 1947" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/c58dhau-landsborough/hooker-range/mt-dechen/south-ridge", "name": "South Ridge", "grade": "2,II", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": "0m", "pitches": [ { "alpine": "2", "commitment": "II", "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": null } ], "quality": 1, "bolts": "0", "natural_pro": false, "description": "Follow Pass Creek to 640m, then climb out to the right onto the spur. This spur has also been ascended all the way from the Landsborough valley floor. Traverse Mt Gordon and follow the south ridge to the extensive McCardell Glacier which provides easy travel to the summit.", "ascent": "Marjorie Edgar-Jones, Gladys Acton-Adams, Frank Alack, Tom Christie, March 1935" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/c58dhau-landsborough/hooker-range/mt-dechen/otoko-couloir", "name": "\u014ctoko Couloir", "grade": "2,III", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": "0m", "pitches": [ { "alpine": "2", "commitment": "III", "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": null } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": "0", "natural_pro": false, "description": "The large snow couloir by the Eye Tooth Falls provides access to the McCardell Glacier. The couloir is best approached when there is plenty of snow about. An ice bulge near the top of the couloir can prove troublesome late in the season. Ice cliffs on the McCardell Glacier occasionally shed significant amounts of ice into the couloir. The first ascent commenced from near the former\nLake Otoko, which has subsequently filled in.", "ascent": "Dick Tornquist, Vic McGregor, Alex Parton, John Luxton, Tim Barfoot, George Hunter, January 1961" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/c58dhau-landsborough/hooker-range/mt-dechen/north-east-ridge", "name": "North East Ridge", "grade": "1+,II", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": "0m", "pitches": [ { "alpine": "1+", "commitment": "II", "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": null } ], "quality": 1, "bolts": "0", "natural_pro": false, "description": "From the upper Edison River, gain the col north-east of Mt Dechen and then climb the broad, snowy ridge to the summit.", "ascent": "Trevor McCann, Maurie Bishop, April 1952" } ], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki/main-divide/mt-brunner": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki/main-divide/mt-brunner", "name": "Mt Brunner", "altitude": "2643m", "access": null, "description": null, "latlng": [ "-43.69032812", "170.028869" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki/main-divide/mt-brunner/brunner-col", "name": "Via Brunner Col", "grade": "2", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "2", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "Traverse from Brunner Col" } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Earle Riddiford, D Beaven, Bill Beaven, J Gummer, M Spencer, December 1946;" } ], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki/main-divide/mt-thomson": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki/main-divide/mt-thomson", "name": "Mt Thomson", "altitude": "2642m", "access": null, "description": "Named for the surveyor John Turnbull Thomson. Appears on older maps as 'Mt Thompson'.", "latlng": [ "-43.706214", "170.022919" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki/main-divide/mt-thomson/original-route", "name": "Original Route", "grade": "2+", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "2+", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "From the Frind Glacier, head up a gully onto a rock rib north of the Ngaroimata Falls gaining height to reach the Donne Glacier. Ascend left towards the col between Thompson and Eagle Peak, but well before the col head up a rock rib onto the South (Main Divide) Ridge." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Otto Frind, Konrad Kain, February 1914" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki/main-divide/mt-thomson/left-rib", "name": "Left Rib", "grade": "3", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "3", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "From the Donne Glacier head up the face on Thomson via a rib left of the prominent overhang on the face." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Aat Vervoorn, Dave White, February 1973" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki/main-divide/mt-thomson/northern-exit", "name": "Northern Exit", "grade": "3+", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "3+", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "From the Donne Glacier ascend the face and turn the overhang on its northern extremity" } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Otto Von Allmen, Paul Von Kanel, January 1973" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki/main-divide/mt-thomson/west-ridge", "name": "West Ridge", "grade": "III,2", "topo_ref": null, "image": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/routes/IMG_1896.JPG?itok=YFzlRQA1", "images": [ { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/routes/IMG_1896.JPG?itok=YFzlRQA1", "height": "244", "width": "325" } ], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": "III", "mtcook": "2", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": null } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": "From Harper's Rock Biv, climb tussock and snow-grass to shingle until the ridge turns to a series of sharp gendarmes. These are passed on the glacier to the north, staying high seems to present few if any cracks. Intersecting slabs and snow-fields lead to the summit. Glacial recession may complicate the final climb in the future. The peak is also climbable from the saddle by Shark's Teeth through a series of ledges and shallow gullies, but this is more difficult and exposed.", "ascent": null } ], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/canterbury/arrowsmith-range/couloir-pk": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/canterbury/arrowsmith-range/couloir-pk", "name": "Couloir Pk", "altitude": "2642m", "access": null, "description": "After Hugh Wright and Jim Murphy abandoned their attempt in 1912, to make the first ascent of Mt Arrowsmith, Couloir wasn\u2019t climbed until 1934. There are several options from Lawrence River. The Couloir is the classic route to the summit of Couloir Peak, pioneered by the redoubtable Stan Conway and Tom Newth and the scene of their legendary 2500-foot fall during a storm on the descent. After their successful climb, an avalanche knocked Tom off his feet, he collided with Stan and they tumbled down the couloir in a long series of arcs, alternately airborne, then pounding into the ice as the rope between them became taught and reined in their flight. Eventually the rope coiled around Tom and the arcing stopped. One last flight saw them clear rocks at the bottom of the couloir before hitting the n\u00e9v\u00e9 and rolling to a stop millimetres from the edge of a crevasse. Both were injured, with Stan having to be evacuated by horse. Despite this, Tom was able to show up for work the next day and the incident was glossed over \u2013 although it was more than 20 years before the route was repeated.", "latlng": [ "-43.341222", "170.989752" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/canterbury/arrowsmith-range/couloir-pk/lawrence-valley", "name": "From Lawrence Valley", "grade": "2", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "2", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "Follow the top of the moraine wall above the Lawrence Glacier and from here climb a solid\r\nrock ridge to the crest. Traverse south, climbing into a gap with a steep bluff on the north side,\r\nthen continue to the summit" }, { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "From a shingle slope, follow the creek draining the north side of Mt Arrowsmith and climb\r\nto the upper basin. From here traverse Pt 2474 metres and reach the crest of the range slightly\r\nnorth of Cameron Col." }, { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "Start up the glacier where the moraine wall has been breached, then follow scree and snow to\r\nthe high Twins\u2013Couloir basin. Climb a steep wall of rock to reach the final ridge and summit." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Evan Wilson, Doug Brough, Andy Anderson, Ernie Rich, Bruce Turner, Rod Hewitt, April 1934" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/canterbury/arrowsmith-range/couloir-pk/south-gullies", "name": "South Gullies", "grade": "2+", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "2+", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "Take one of the two prominent gullies left of the main couloir which lead to a small plateau on\r\nthe Lawrence divide. From here, follow reasonably angled rock for the last 200 metres to the\r\nsummit, or follow a snow-filled gully left of the rock." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Geoff Harrow, Barry Owen, February 1950" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/canterbury/arrowsmith-range/couloir-pk/south-ridge", "name": "South Ridge", "grade": null, "topo_ref": "SR", "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "Climb the ridge south of the peak, which leads directly to the summit, starting either on rock\r\nor up an ice gully." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Arthur Lees, Ambrose Banfield, April 1938" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/canterbury/arrowsmith-range/couloir-pk/couloir", "name": "The Couloir", "grade": "3", "topo_ref": "TG", "image": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/routes/Couloir%20both%20ways.jpg?itok=DzAVppxT", "images": [ { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/routes/Couloir%20both%20ways.jpg?itok=DzAVppxT", "height": "244", "width": "325" }, { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/routes/The%20Coulior%20with%20route%20marked.jpg?itok=VBbOGZdP", "height": "325", "width": "244" } ], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "3", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "Follow the Cameron Glacier to the base of the prominent snow couloir cutting the south-east\r\nface of the peak. The lower section contains the crux, a steep, two-metre ice wall, after which\r\nthe route lays back to about 45 degrees and ends about 30 metres from the summit ridge. From\r\nhere, cross left under the buttress into a short, steep, icy gully then follow good ice for the last\r\n10 metres to the summit ridge." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Stan Conway, Tom Newth, October 1937" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/canterbury/arrowsmith-range/couloir-pk/big-d", "name": "The Big D", "grade": "16", "topo_ref": null, "image": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/route/The%20Big%20D%20Topo.jpg?itok=WA0zM0Ak", "images": [ { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/route/The%20Big%20D%20Topo.jpg?itok=WA0zM0Ak", "height": "325", "width": "270" } ], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": "16", "description": null } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": "Direct route on East Face of Couloir Peak (2642m). From Cameron Hut, allow 5h for the approach, 7h for the climb, and 7h for the\ndescent back to the hut.\nApproach \u2013 Up Cameron Glacier past icefall to glacier confluence (1700m).\nTurn left, ascend to 1950m. Then take a right up a steep (50 degree) ice slope to eventually arrive at the base of a prominent corner directly below the summit (2300m). Start 10m right of the main corner.\nPitch 1 (40m, 16) \u2013 up crack until under roof (20m). Turn the roof by\ntraversing left onto the face (crux). Ascend slabs to belay ledge. Good\nrock.\nPitch 2 (15m, 15) \u2013 up corner to belay ledge\nPitch 3 (40m, 14) - traverse right out of crack and around ar\u00eate for 10m.\nThen up a series of ledges on quality rock\nPitch 4 (40m, 12) \u2013 follow cracks up to large ledge\nPitch 5 (35m, 10) \u2013 down right into gravel, then ascend loose easy ledges\narriving at a red corner.\nPitch 6 (20m, 12) \u2013 right and up to top ledge up crumbly, difficult to\nprotect, rock. Scary pitch.\nPitch 7 (30m, 15) - traverse left past red corner then up fissure past\ndetached pillar and around corner\nPitch 8 (45m, 12) \u2013 traverse 10m left then directly up. Follow a series of\ncracks to wide ledge.\nPitch 9 (100m, 10) \u2013 Easy scramble up and right. Simul-climb this pitch\ntaking care rope drag doesn\u2019t drop loose rock on partner below.\nPitch 10 (100m, 10) \u2013 Easy scramble.\nFrom the summit ridge it is a further 100m traverse past af gendarme to the\nsummit (2642m).\nDescent \u2013 continue traversing 100m along summit ridge to the SW until at\nsmall col above a steep snow/ice couloir on the TL. Descend this steep\ncouloir at first (a rap may be required) for 250m (vertical) to a wide\nsnowfield. Continue along this 600m to the right staying to the west of the\nridge on easy ground, crossing point 2474, and eventually arriving at Cameron\nCol (2427m). Cross the Col and traverse a further 200m due south across the\nglacier and then carefully turn to descend 700m of steep snow/ice to arrive\nback at the glacier confluence (1700m).", "ascent": null } ], "places": [], "image": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/wide/public/image/Coulior.png?itok=iUP5Wi3D", "images": [ { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/wide/public/image/Coulior.png?itok=iUP5Wi3D", "height": "900", "width": "618" }, { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/image/The%20Big%20D%20Topo.jpg?itok=ioC3XuF_", "height": "325", "width": "270" } ] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/c58dhau-landsborough/hooker-range/mt-hooker": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/c58dhau-landsborough/hooker-range/mt-hooker", "name": "Mt Hooker", "altitude": "2640m", "access": "From the west, a rapid approach can be made up the \u014ctoko River to reach the junction with Jack Creek or, further on, the Upper \u014ctoko Pass. Access can also be gained from the east by crossing the Landsborough River and Solution Range or from the south by traveling up the Landsborough and Clarke valleys.", "description": "Mt Hooker is a superb massif flanked on three sides by extensive glaciers. An impressively steep north face dominates the view from the upper \u014ctoko River. The first ascent by Samuel and Cyril Turner is shrouded in mystery, as Samuel Turner died before he was able to record the details of the ascent. However, the secretary of the Alpine Club at the time was satisfied that they had indeed climbed the peak, after corroboration from deer cullers working in the area. It is likely they climbed it from Marks Flat. Hooker is readily visible from the Haast and West Coast highways, and provides a powerful attraction for climbers who want to experience climbing west of the Main Divide.", "latlng": [ "-43.8297096817", "169.673377994" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/westland/hooker-range/mt-hooker/north-west-ridge", "name": "North West Ridge", "grade": "2,II", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": "2", "commitment": "II", "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": null } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": "Climb the spur between Marks Flat and Murdock Creek to gain the extensive Hooker Glacier. Sidle the western summit on the \u014ctoko side at about 2450m, across snowfields to an ar\u00eate leading to the higher eastern peak. The ridge from the low to high peak has also been traversed on the ridge crest by Bruce Jenkinson and company in the 1960s but is significantly more difficult (III, 3+).", "ascent": "Samuel Turner, Cyril Turner, December 1928" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/westland/hooker-range/mt-hooker/south-ridge", "name": "South Ridge", "grade": "3+,III", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": "3+", "commitment": "III", "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": null } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": "A route leads from the Hooker Glacier directly to the high peak. Begin the climb on the western side of the ridge to get some easy height before gaining the ridge. Follow mixed ground up the ridge to reach loose schist and move carefully to the summit snowfield.", "ascent": "Dave Innes, Bruce Robertson, Peter Foster, Laurie Kennedy, January 1968" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/westland/hooker-range/mt-hooker/south-east-ridge", "name": "South East Ridge", "grade": "4,V", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": "4", "commitment": "V", "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": null } ], "quality": 1, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": "Several parties attempted to climb the mountain from Lower \u014ctoko Pass before it was completed in 1962. Note that early accounts describe this as the North East Ridge. A broad shelf leads across the east face until crevasses force the route up onto the summit pyramid. A large gendarme at about 2500m, which deterred several parties, is turned on the Marks Flat side to reach the east peak. A difficult, pinnacled ridge leading to the summit requires down climbing on tension at a couple of points to reach the final sharp cheval ridge. Plenty of exposure!", "ascent": "Paul Bieleski, G A Carr, Bruce Jenkinson, A G Nelson, January 1962" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/westland/hooker-range/mt-hooker/hersey-vinton-boot", "name": "Hersey Vinton-Boot", "grade": "20,6,V", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": "6", "commitment": "V", "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": "20", "description": null } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": "Begin at about 1750m on the \u014ctoko Glacier and climb weaknesses on the lower north face, trending left to finish on the big shelf on the south-west ridge. The upper buttress remains unclimbed. Steep, difficult climbing on somewhat friable rock, a difficult climb.", "ascent": "Shelley Hersey, Jamie Vinton-Boot, April 2012" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/westland/hooker-range/mt-hooker/jack-creek", "name": "From Jack Creek", "grade": "2,III", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": "2", "commitment": "III", "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": null } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": "From the bushline in Jack Creek, ascend the spur on the true right and cross the Jack Glacier to connect with the Hooker Glacier and the North West Ridge route to the low peak of Mt Hooker. Ascent of the higher eastern peak is accomplished by traversing across the \u014ctoko slopes and up the summit pyramid.", "ascent": "Bruce Popplewell, Brian Stephenson, January 1965" } ], "places": [], "image": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/wide/public/image/Mt%20Hooker%202003.jpeg?itok=hTD9TiBv", "images": [ { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/wide/public/image/Mt%20Hooker%202003.jpeg?itok=hTD9TiBv", "height": "744", "width": "1090" } ] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki/liebig-range/mt-kenneth": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki/liebig-range/mt-kenneth", "name": "Mt Kenneth", "altitude": "2638m", "access": null, "description": "tba", "latlng": [ "-43.58454", "170.404695" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki/liebig-range/mt-kenneth/unnamed", "name": "Unnamed", "grade": null, "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "From the Murchison Glacier climb rock and snow to the col between the peak and Olaf. Continue up the north ridge on poor rock. Another option is to follow the Liebig Range from Ronald Adair." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Alf Brustad, Kenneth Grinling, Adair Algie, Ronald Algie, Jan 1927" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki/liebig-range/mt-kenneth/unnamed-0", "name": "Unnamed", "grade": null, "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "From the head of the north branch of the Rankin Stream climb a narrow snow gut to gain the south-east ridge. Once on the crest continue over loose rock to final snow slopes and the summit." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "A Baird, B S Charman, W E Limbrick, Jan 1959" } ], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/main-divide-of-the-southern-alps/mt-moffat": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/main-divide-of-the-southern-alps/mt-moffat", "name": "Mt Moffat", "altitude": "2638m", "access": null, "description": "tba", "latlng": [ "-43.461549", "170.455438" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/main-divide-of-the-southern-alps/mt-moffat/south-east-ridge", "name": "South East Ridge", "grade": "2,III", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": "2", "commitment": "III", "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "Climbed via Panorama, Bruce Murray, and Upton. Beyond Panorama and its snow plateau, the ridge had a mix of rock pinnacles and snow ar\u00eates, while a tower before Upton Peak, like the peak itself, was turned on the north-east side. A shoulder of snow then led on to a narrow section of fine black crumbly rock that several early accounts disliked, followed by a step in the ridge that was passed on snow out to the left. Above this, a snow plateau with crevasses led them to the summit." } ], "quality": 1, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "A J Scott, Alf Brustad, Russell Fraser, January 1933" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/main-divide-of-the-southern-alps/mt-moffat/west", "name": "From the West", "grade": "2", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "2", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "From the Butler River South Branch,\r\naccess the upper Gino Watkins Glacier.\r\nThis may be difficult. Climb snow slopes\r\nto the snow saddle between Mt Moffat\r\nand Mt Livingstone and continue to the\r\nsummit" } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Laurie Osborne, Bruce Waterhouse, John Harrison, B H (Snow) Williams, Jan 1954" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/main-divide-of-the-southern-alps/mt-moffat/south-west-ridge", "name": "South West Ridge", "grade": "2+", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "2+", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "The first ascent party camped on the\r\nNansen n\u00e9v\u00e9 and crossed the west ridge\r\nof Cassino to access the Gino Watkins\r\nGlacier. The descent into the Gino\r\nWatkins was particularly steep. From theGino Watkins Glacier climb the west face of Pt 2543 metres to access the Main Divide southwest\r\nof Mt Moffat. The summit ridge was largely sidled on the left, returning to the Divide\r\njust below the top for a final ar\u00eate. Reported as scrambling, with the odd pitch along the Main\r\nDivide." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "John Nankervis, Phil Castle, Grant Stotter, Pat Thorn, Dec 1978" } ], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/canterbury/jollie-range/red-pk": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/canterbury/jollie-range/red-pk", "name": "Red Pk", "altitude": "2637m", "access": null, "description": null, "latlng": [ "-43.314375", "170.989494" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/canterbury/jollie-range/red-pk/lawrence-face", "name": "Lawrence Face", "grade": "3", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "3", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "The Lawrence Face takes a direct line up steep rock and snow to reach the west ridge close to\r\nthe summit. From the lower Lawrence Glacier, climb scree slopes to the foot of a steep rocky\r\nbuttress, between the two main icefalls, that rises almost to the summit. Follow the buttress to\r\na snow-filled couloir that leads to the upper ridge. Continue on the Lawrence Col side of the\r\nridge until a large schrund is reached. Cross this and take a short couloir to the summit ridge,\r\nthen traverse over several bumps to the summit. This rock is loose but not especially difficult." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Alan Foot, Brian Stickle, W Ellery, January 1956" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/canterbury/jollie-range/red-pk/east-ridge", "name": "East Ridge", "grade": null, "topo_ref": "ER", "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "From Lawrence Col follow the tricky ridge, keeping on the Reischek faces as much as possible.\r\nThe large gap in the ridge west of Pt 2539 metres is passed on the Reischek side \u2013 start the traverse\r\nwell before the gap. Alternatively, in good conditions, climb directly to the gap to avoid\r\nthe first section of ridge." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Mike Nelson, Robin Johnson, January 1954" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/canterbury/jollie-range/red-pk/north-ar%C3%AAte", "name": "North Ar\u00eate", "grade": null, "topo_ref": "NA", "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "Follow loose rock on the North Ar\u00eate to join the summit ridge east of the summit. From here\r\ntraverse numerous pinnacles to the top." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "H W (Sandy) Cormack, Lloyd Wilson, January 1933" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/canterbury/jollie-range/red-pk/north-spur", "name": "North Spur", "grade": "2+", "topo_ref": "NS", "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "2+", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "From the Reischek n\u00e9v\u00e9 a distinctive spur juts out from the main Red Peak massif into the\r\nglacier. A small snow col on this spur provides a starting point for a climb up faces of reasonably\r\nfirm rock leading directly to or just west of the summit. This is the most commonly used\r\nascent route." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "H W (Sandy) Cormack, Lloyd Wilson (descended), January 1933" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/canterbury/jollie-range/red-pk/west-ridge", "name": "West Ridge", "grade": null, "topo_ref": "WR", "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "From the Reischek Glacier head around the n\u00e9v\u00e9 under the peak and follow snow to the col\r\nbetween Mt Gould and Red Peak. From here easy climbing on loose rock slabs leads to a short\r\nill-defined ridge which merges with the upper northern face, then follow a series of short sharp\r\ngullies to the summit." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Jack Pattle, Warren Jones, Alan Morgan, Bob Watson, April 1952" } ], "places": [], "image": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/wide/public/image/Red.png?itok=pchd2Dmi", "images": [ { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/wide/public/image/Red.png?itok=pchd2Dmi", "height": "518", "width": "900" }, { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/image/RedPk1.png?itok=iek8TSrN", "height": "212", "width": "325" } ] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki/franz-josef-glacier-ka-roimata-o-hine-hukatere/mt-christie": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki/franz-josef-glacier-ka-roimata-o-hine-hukatere/mt-christie", "name": "Mt Christie", "altitude": "2636m", "access": null, "description": "On the Fritz Range.", "latlng": [ "-43.51355358", "170.1908357" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki/franz-josef-glacier-ka-roimata-o-hine-hukatere/mt-christie/newton-pass", "name": "From Newton Pass", "grade": null, "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": "From Newton Pass traverse the ridge to the summit.", "ascent": "Frank Alack, H K Douglas, December 1935" } ], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki/liebig-range/the-abbott": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki/liebig-range/the-abbott", "name": "The Abbott", "altitude": "2630m", "access": null, "description": "tba", "latlng": [ "-43.666119", "170.293054" ], "routes": [], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki/main-divide/mt-jervois": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki/main-divide/mt-jervois", "name": "Mt Jervois", "altitude": "2630m", "access": null, "description": "When iced up the south-west face of Jervois looks to have plenty of new route potential. Some short crag-style routes have been developed on the rock buttresses near Centennial Hut by Peter Taw and John Entwisle. The first route (crux 18) is situated south-west of the hut, on the third buttress from the left as you face it. The second route (crux 20) is on the distinctive red buttress north-east of the hut, and north of Jervois. This route takes a groove.", "latlng": [ "-43.51313994", "170.2377288" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki/main-divide/mt-jervois/main-divide", "name": "Main Divide", "grade": null, "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "Easy scrambling on the northern Divide ridge. The southern Divide ridge is steeper and has good rock." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Alex Graham, B Marsden, Apr 1916." }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki/main-divide/mt-jervois/north-west-ridge", "name": "North West Ridge", "grade": "2+", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "2+", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "Follow the ridge above Centennial Hut over two distinct gendarmes and onto the summit. Good rock. An excellent warm-up before breakfast." } ], "quality": 1, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Miss I Corry, Mark Lysons, Jan 1933." }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki/main-divide/mt-jervois/team-piha", "name": "Team Piha", "grade": "3-", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "3-", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": null } ], "quality": 2, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": "Climb two pitches up the big snow ramp on the SW aspect to the ridge (about\n50-60-degrees alpine ice but likely conditions dependent). Travel eastwards\nalong the ridge toward the summit for about one rope length. There can be a\nshort, very narrow and exposed section near the summit where care will need\nto be taken. From here is less than a full rope length to the summit, from\nmemory.\nDescend via the north side, 4 abseils from memory, possibly 5. Be aware of\nthe 'schrund when returning to the neve.\nExcellent intro route to the area for progressing mountaineers. A fun half\nday out.", "ascent": "G Pennycook, F Eldridge, L Andersson, November 2008" } ], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/canterbury/jollie-range/north-pk": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/canterbury/jollie-range/north-pk", "name": "North Pk", "altitude": "2628m", "access": null, "description": "The steep buttresses of the Lawrence Face of North Peak remain unclimbed directly to the summit, despite several attempts. Note that the routes marked on the topo are approximate.", "latlng": [ "-43.312251", "171.003399" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/canterbury/jollie-range/north-pk/south-ridge", "name": "South Ridge", "grade": "3-", "topo_ref": "SR", "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "3-", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "The South Ridge was originally reached from Jagged Stream but can be approached from the\r\nLawrence side via the north arm of the Lawrence Glacier. From here, climb a rock step to reach\r\nthe glacier draining the north-west side of Lawrence Peak and so the long South Ridge. Once\r\non this narrow, loose and steep ridge, negotiate towers and guts to the summit." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Margaret Clark, D Roberts, H Wills, R Wills, February 1970" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/canterbury/jollie-range/north-pk/cousins-harrison", "name": "Cousins-Harrison", "grade": null, "topo_ref": "CH", "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "Climb the face to join the South Ridge 30 metres east of the summit. The pair made a further\r\ntwo unsuccessful attempts to reach the summit directly." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "John Cousins, Bruce Harrison, November 1962" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/canterbury/jollie-range/north-pk/original-route", "name": "Original Route", "grade": null, "topo_ref": "OR", "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "Start up the prominent couloir to the right of the summit. Rockfall forced the party to the\r\nright, on to the face, and they gained the south ridge about 100 metres below the summit but\r\ndidn\u2019t continue to the top." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Stan Conway, Frank Gillett, Bernie McClelland, Tom Newth, 1939" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/canterbury/jollie-range/north-pk/east-couloir", "name": "East Couloir", "grade": null, "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "The couloir rises from about the 1800-metre couloir, to the east of North Peak, and leads to the\r\nnorthernmost of the Gridiron Glaciers. Initially keep to rocks on the left, or climb the couloir\r\nfrom the bottom halfway to its head, and then move on to broken and jumbled rock to gain the\r\nfinal rock ridge, which is loose and exposed in places. Beware of falling rock and ice." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Evan Wilson, Doug Brough, December 1932" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/canterbury/jollie-range/north-pk/north-ridge", "name": "North Ridge", "grade": "2+", "topo_ref": "NR", "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "2+", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "From Reischek Col the ridge is narrow and loose. Alternatively, cross the Assault Glacier at\r\nabout half height and traverse snow slopes, climbing to the ridge at about its midpoint." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Bruce Banfield, Bob Logan, April 1939" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/canterbury/jollie-range/north-pk/north-west-buttress", "name": "North West Buttress", "grade": "3", "topo_ref": "NWB", "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "3", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "From the head of the Reischek Glacier climb rock to the left of a snow couloir which leads on\r\nto the North Ridge. After the first 100 metres or so the climbing gets more difficult and it may\r\nbe necessary to traverse into the couloir (prone to rock fall). Regain the buttress where possible\r\nand climb a large chimney. Once through the chimney, cross the face under the summit to join\r\nthe North Ridge just below the summit." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "H W (Sandy) Cormack, Lloyd Wilson, December 1932" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/canterbury/jollie-range/north-pk/north-west-face", "name": "North West Face", "grade": "2-", "topo_ref": "NWF", "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "2-", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "From the Reischek n\u00e9v\u00e9 the route starts in an easy gully, followed by rock climbing. Direct but\r\nnot hard." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Lindsay Main, August 1977 ( first recorded ascent, but likely to have been descended earlier)" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/canterbury/jollie-range/north-pk/west-ridge", "name": "West Ridge", "grade": "3", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "3", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "From Lawrence Col follow the ridge on generally sound rock. The crux is at the end of the first\r\npitch." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Dave Gobey, R D (Dave) Clark, December 1969" } ], "places": [], "image": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/wide/public/image/North.png?itok=Z-mQrA4w", "images": [ { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/wide/public/image/North.png?itok=Z-mQrA4w", "height": "518", "width": "900" }, { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/image/NorthPk1.png?itok=-KlGqZDo", "height": "206", "width": "325" } ] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki/sealy-range/mt-sealy": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki/sealy-range/mt-sealy", "name": "Mt Sealy", "altitude": "2627m", "access": null, "description": "Sealy Range", "latlng": [ "-43.76514448", "170.04590748" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki/sealy-range/mt-sealy/east-ridge", "name": "East Ridge", "grade": "2+,I", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": "0m", "pitches": [ { "alpine": "2+", "commitment": "I", "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": null } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": "0", "natural_pro": false, "description": "From the Metelille Glacier climb steep snow to the col between the low and high peaks, or traverse to the col from the low peak. This is Barrow Col, marked incorrectly on topo maps. Follow rotten rock to the summit.", "ascent": "Jack Clarke, C L Barrow, Edward FitzGerald, Mattias Zurbriggen (possibly), January 1895" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki/sealy-range/mt-sealy/north-face-couloir", "name": "North Face Couloir", "grade": "3,I", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": "0m", "pitches": [ { "alpine": "3", "commitment": "I", "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": null } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": "0", "natural_pro": false, "description": "A steep couloir leading almost directly to the summit. A \u2018couloir and chimney\u2019 somewhere on the face were climbed by O Bainbridge, Jack Clarke and W Tennant in March 1903.", "ascent": "Peter Graham, Claude Macdonald, February 1909" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki/sealy-range/mt-sealy/north-west-ridge", "name": "North West Ridge", "grade": "2+,II", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": "0m", "pitches": [ { "alpine": "2+", "commitment": "II", "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": null } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": "0", "natural_pro": false, "description": "Exposed rock scrambling with a steep step or two. Sometimes reached from Sladden Saddle, but usually gained via the couloirs on the north or west faces.", "ascent": "Otto Frind, Conrad Kain, February 1914" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki/sealy-range/mt-sealy/west-face", "name": "West Face", "grade": "2,II", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": "0m", "pitches": [ { "alpine": "2", "commitment": "II", "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": null } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": "0", "natural_pro": false, "description": "This is the standard ascent and descent route on Mt Sealy but is suffering heavily from loss of permanent snow and ice. After midsummer the route comprises loose rock and steep, hard snow slopes, increasing the grade. Winter, spring and early summer are the best times.\nAscend to Sladden Saddle, circle round the back of the peak, head up the 150m moderately angled face, and then either (i) follow the top of the rotten north-west ridge over a short step, or (ii) traverse right across a shelf to gain easier-angled snow and rock slopes (the preferred route if conditions allow).", "ascent": "Peter Graham, Mr & Mrs L H Lindon, B Spencer, W Fisher (descended), January 1911" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki/sealy-range/mt-sealy/north-face", "name": "North Face", "grade": "3,I", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": "0m", "pitches": [ { "alpine": "3", "commitment": "I", "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": null } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": "0", "natural_pro": false, "description": "The rock face \u2018to the right of the couloir\u2019. The exact location of this route is uncertain.", "ascent": "Freda Du Faur, Peter Graham, December 1909" } ], "places": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki/sealy-range/mt-sealy/south-face", "name": "South Face", "altitude": null, "access": null, "description": "The South Face of Mt Sealy, at the head of the Dobson Valley, is steep and broken.", "latlng": [ "-43.77032347", "170.04787226" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki/sealy-range/mt-sealy/south-face/ice-gangsters", "name": "Ice Gangsters", "grade": "4", "topo_ref": "1", "image": null, "images": [], "length": "900m", "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "4", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": "900m", "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "Generally classic grade 4 climbing." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": "The major gully on the left side of the face tops out on the Sladden Glacier\njust below the final summit pyramid. The majority of the route is 50\u201360\u00ba\nwith three short 80\u00ba sections plus the final mixed step to the glacier. A\ndirect finish up the summit headwall via a corner system would be possible,\ninstead of going left, if the corner is iced up. More detail at\nhttp://jamievintonboot.wordpress.com/2012/07/30/ice-gangsters-south-face-of-mt-sealy/", "ascent": "Steve Fortune, Jamie Vinton-Boot, July 2012" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki/sealy-range/mt-sealy/south-face/prime-time", "name": "Prime Time", "grade": "17,5", "topo_ref": null, "image": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/route/Sealy%20Sth%20Face%20cropped.jpg?itok=LPMH2Vyv", "images": [ { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/route/Sealy%20Sth%20Face%20cropped.jpg?itok=LPMH2Vyv", "height": "297", "width": "325" } ], "length": "800m", "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "5", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": "800m", "bolts": null, "trad": true, "ewbank": "17", "description": null } ], "quality": 1, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": true, "description": "This route follows the rock buttress up the centre of the south face, passes\nright of the snow field on the face and finishes 50m east of the summit.\nInitial steep pitches on sound rock, are followed by an easier section at mid\nlevel moving left before the buttress steepens again and provides constant\nresistance.", "ascent": "Peter Dickson, Bill McLeod, February 1993" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki/sealy-range/mt-sealy/south-face/hello-darkness", "name": "Hello Darkness", "grade": "16,4+", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": "650m", "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "4+", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": "650m", "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": "16", "description": null } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": "The route ascends the obvious snow/ice gully on the right side of the south\nface, heading directly to the low point between the summit and the east peak.\nAbout 650m high, the route complements the earlier completed route Prime\nTime, further left on the face.", "ascent": "Bill McLeod, November 1994" } ], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] } ], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki/main-divide/mt-meteor": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki/main-divide/mt-meteor", "name": "Mt Meteor", "altitude": "2624m", "access": null, "description": "The southern Divide ridge is steepish and rotten.", "latlng": [ "-43.5157841", "170.234158" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki/main-divide/mt-meteor/northern-approach", "name": "Northern Approach", "grade": null, "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "The ridge from Jervois traverses a small peak and descends a short steep section before easy scrambling leads to the summit." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Katie Gardiner, Jack Pope, Mar 1929." } ], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/nelson-lakes-kaikc58dura/inland-kaikoura-range/mitre-pk": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/nelson-lakes-kaikc58dura/inland-kaikoura-range/mitre-pk", "name": "Mitre Pk", "altitude": "2621m", "access": "", "description": "A prominent couloir reaching to a small col between the two summit pyramids gives the peak the appearance of a bishop\u2019s mitre.", "latlng": [ "-42.004662", "173.609433" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/nelson-lakes-kaik%C5%8Dura/inland-kaik%C5%8Dura-range/mitre-pk/north-east-couloir", "name": "North East Couloir", "grade": "2", "topo_ref": "NE", "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": "2", "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "Via HODDER RV. From the Staircase Stream junction continue up the Hodder, and climb the prominent couloir to a narrow col at the top. Beyond here, some parties may require a rope. A short steep descent and then a short traverse leads to a final steep climb to the very small summit.\r\n(via North ridge)" } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Messrs Alexander, Fowler, Neville, Moore, Jan. 1895." }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/nelson-lakes-kaik%C5%8Dura/inland-kaik%C5%8Dura-range/mitre-pk/south-east-ridge", "name": "South East Ridge", "grade": "2", "topo_ref": "SE", "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": "2", "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "Via HODDER RV. This impressive rock ridge can be gained from near Muzzle Saddle, or else via a snow couloir. Good scrambling on steep rock." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "John Nankervis, Ross Gooder, Bob Gunn, Jan. 1969." } ], "places": [], "image": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/wide/public/image/Screen%20shot%202011-06-29%20at%205.48.07%20PM%20-%20Copy.jpg?itok=v4U3lJlG", "images": [ { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/wide/public/image/Screen%20shot%202011-06-29%20at%205.48.07%20PM%20-%20Copy.jpg?itok=v4U3lJlG", "height": "408", "width": "637" }, { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/image/Screen%20shot%202011-06-29%20at%205.49.19%20PM.jpg?itok=5C0EOy6q", "height": "212", "width": "325" } ] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aspiring/snowdrift-range/mt-edward": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aspiring/snowdrift-range/mt-edward", "name": "Mt Edward", "altitude": "2620m", "access": null, "description": "The attractive peak of Edward can be seen from the Raspberry Flat car park in all its glory, over the top of Cascade Saddle. Like a lot of the peaks in this guide that aren\u2019t named Aspiring, Mt Edward doesn\u2019t see many ascents. The first ascent was made in 1914 by Bernard Head, Jack Clarke and Colin Ferrier, who climbed from the head of the Whitbourn. The first ascent from the Dart was by Russell Gordon, George Edwards and Doug Knowles, on March 7, 1935.", "latlng": [ "-44.46685825", "168.58437939" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aspiring/snowdrift-range/mt-edward/whitbourn-saddle", "name": "From the Whitbourn Saddle", "grade": null, "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "From the Whitbourn Saddle, traverse or sidle under Maoriri. From below the\r\n\r\nWhitbourn Glacier climb a shingle slide to and then traverse the Geikie Glacier until able to descend a snow couloir from the saddle below Troas towards the Whitbourn. Climb through crevasses to reach an ice ridge about 60m below the summit. A variation is to cross the Whitbourn shoulder of Troas." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": null }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aspiring/snowdrift-range/mt-edward/marshall-glacier", "name": "Via Marshall Glacier", "grade": "2,II", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": "0m", "pitches": [ { "alpine": "2", "commitment": "II", "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": null } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": "0", "natural_pro": false, "description": "Cross the Dart Glacier below the icefall to the scree slopes south of the East Ridge. These give access to the Marshall Glacier which is followed up to the base of a prominent rock face on the south side of the East Ridge about 200m below the peak. From this point the ridge is followed, with two chimneys and a short snow ridge before the summit. Alternatively the snow of the South Ridge can be reached by continuing to the top of the Marshall Glacier. The climb would take six to seven hours from Cascade Saddle.", "ascent": null }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aspiring/snowdrift-range/mt-edward/east-ridge", "name": "East Ridge", "grade": "2,II", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": "0m", "pitches": [ { "alpine": "2", "commitment": "II", "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": null } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": "0", "natural_pro": false, "description": "Unfortunately no details of the route are available. The ridge can be gained by climbing the avalanche gully just south of the icefall and traversing a broad ledge (subject to avalanche early in the season) to reach the foot of the East Ridge immediately above the icefall. The lower section of the ridge appears to be the best rock and the most interesting climbing.", "ascent": "Stafford Morse, Russell Fisher" } ], "places": [], "image": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/wide/public/image/RF_Humboldt%20Tower%2C%20Mar_opt_1.jpeg?itok=B8_nnCsQ", "images": [ { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/wide/public/image/RF_Humboldt%20Tower%2C%20Mar_opt_1.jpeg?itok=B8_nnCsQ", "height": "243", "width": "324" } ] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/canterbury-westland-alps/bloomfield-range/mt-evans": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/canterbury-westland-alps/bloomfield-range/mt-evans", "name": "Mt Evans", "altitude": "2620m", "access": null, "description": "Mt Evans stands dominant at the head of the Wanganui, Waitaha, and Whitcombe valleys, while the Bracken Snowfield to the south-east, at or above 2000 metres altitude, looks into the Wanganui, Rakaia and Whitcombe valleys.", "latlng": [ "-43.18565393", "170.92564522" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/westland/bloomfield-range/mt-evans/east-face", "name": "East Face", "grade": "3+", "topo_ref": "EF", "image": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/route/012.JPG?itok=Jn27RtZM", "images": [ { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/route/012.JPG?itok=Jn27RtZM", "height": "244", "width": "325" } ], "length": "350m", "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "3+", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": "350m", "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "Reach the Shelf Glacier via a narrow gully direct from the Bracken between 2100 and 2200\r\nmetres. The East Face is quite a feature despite its relatively small dimensions. Climb the rib\r\n(obvious from other peaks in the region but less so from below) generally on or near the crest\r\nto the low peak at 2609 metres. The first ascent gave sustained and tenuous climbing in deep\r\nsnow, with occasional ice strands through rock bands. Descent was by the big gully in the\r\nmiddle of the face (which may be the quickest and most direct route up the mountain, snow\r\nconditions allowing). In summer this gully is subject to rock fall. Other lines on the face remain\r\nto be climbed" } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Guy McKinnon July 2006" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/westland/bloomfield-range/mt-evans/west-ridge", "name": "West Ridge", "grade": "2+", "topo_ref": "WR", "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "2+", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "Gain Red Lion Col and then cross shingle and find a line through the bluffs in\r\ngullies on the County side. Above, long easier snow slopes lead up the ridge. The ridge then\r\nnarrows, offering an exposed scramble on snow or very loose rock to the summit. This summit\r\nridge (called the Southern Cornice in past accounts) can be tricky under snow, with significant\r\ncornices." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "John Pascoe, Gavin Malcolmson, Priestley Thomson (descended), 1 January 1934" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/westland/bloomfield-range/mt-evans/east-ridge-%E2%80%98-golden-road%E2%80%99", "name": "East Ridge, \u2018The Golden Road\u2019", "grade": "3", "topo_ref": "ER", "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "3", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "This route offers a direct approach from the Bracken Snowfield, though the rock is quite poor in\r\nplaces. A snow ar\u00eate gives way to a narrow ridge of loose rock and pinnacles, another snow ar\u00eate\r\nand then some gendarmes. A variation, keeping to snow on the south side before the crux, has\r\nalso been used. The section from the East Ridge up steep, loose rock flanks to the West Ridge\r\nis normally the crux." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "L Wooles, I Cardwell, 28 December 1940" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/westland/bloomfield-range/mt-evans/north-east-ridge", "name": "North East Ridge", "grade": "3", "topo_ref": "NER", "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "3", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "A classic route. Reach the Shelf Glacier from the Bracken as described in East Face.\r\nAlternatively, from the Wilkinson Valley, climb the lower section of the ridge keeping to the\r\nMcKenzie Glacier side. There are five rock steps and gendarmes, mainly on firm rock, and where\r\nthe climbing becomes too severe alternatives usually exist on the McKenzie Glacier side. The\r\nfinal rock section leads to the junction with the North West Ridge and a traverse over the north\r\nsummit to reach the high peak." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "David Elphick, Mike White, Barry Smith, Jim Wilson, 26 December 1955" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/westland/bloomfield-range/mt-evans/north-face", "name": "North Face", "grade": "3", "topo_ref": "NF", "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "3", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "A variation climbs up the North Face, reaching the North East Ridge high up. \u2018Good rock\r\nclimbing in places on the North Face. Very loose rock to the summit and off.\u2019" } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Tim Percival, Dean Arthur, March 1994" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/westland/bloomfield-range/mt-evans/original-route", "name": "Original Route", "grade": "3-", "topo_ref": "OR", "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "3-", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "From the upper McKenzie Glacier, climb rock slabs, snow slopes and couloirs on the North\r\nFace to join the North West Ridge at about 2400 metres." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "John Pascoe, Gavin Malcolmson, Priestley Thomson, 1 January 1934" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/westland/bloomfield-range/mt-evans/north-west-ridge", "name": "North West Ridge", "grade": "3", "topo_ref": "NWR", "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "3", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "Access to MacKenzie Col is best from the Wilkinson side, earlier in the season. On the County\r\nside the couloir is narrow and more subject to rock fall.\r\nBegin up steep and fairly rotten rock, passing a prominent finger of rock on the McKenzie\r\nside and a rock tower on the County side. Three rock steps are more challenging, particularly\r\nthe second one. Less than 100 metres from the junction with the North East Ridge, the ridge\r\nsteepens and the first ascent party was forced to bypass this up a snow gully to the climber\u2019s\r\nright. Loose rock leads to the high peak (or sidle well down on steep snow to avoid cornices)." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Jim Wilson, Tony Evans ( full North West Ridge), 10 November 1958" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/westland/bloomfield-range/mt-evans/county-face", "name": "County Face", "grade": "3-", "topo_ref": "CF", "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "3-", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "From the upper County n\u00e9v\u00e9, negotiate big schrunds to access the main gully at about\r\nJ34 411783 / BW18 311 167. Generally the route follows up the middle of the face with a mix of\r\nloose and reasonable rock, snow patches and a long snow couloir between two rock ribs. Loose\r\nrock to the right completes the climb, reaching the summit ridge about 30 metres left of the\r\nhigh peak. Not excessively difficult climbing but sustained and moderately exposed. The route\r\nhas variable greywacke, best approached when there is still snow in the gullies." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Ian Wilkins, Geoff Spearpoint, 9 February 1975" } ], "places": [], "image": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/wide/public/image/Evans3_0.png?itok=FB2ZrHuG", "images": [ { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/wide/public/image/Evans3_0.png?itok=FB2ZrHuG", "height": "620", "width": "900" }, { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/image/evans2_0.png?itok=q2eK_cvT", "height": "241", "width": "325" }, { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/image/Evans4.png?itok=B6eiOiaf", "height": "217", "width": "325" } ] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki/malte-brun-range/mt-chudleigh-south-pk": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki/malte-brun-range/mt-chudleigh-south-pk", "name": "Mt Chudleigh South Pk", "altitude": "2617m", "access": null, "description": "Also known as the Low Peak.", "latlng": [ "-43.58730695", "170.2785461" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki/malte-brun-range/mt-chudleigh-south-pk/west-face", "name": "West Face", "grade": "3-", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "3-", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "From the Walpole Glacier ascend the rock face to the summit." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "I B Pledger, K Suter, P C Weenink, Dec 1934." }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki/malte-brun-range/mt-chudleigh-south-pk/west-ridge", "name": "West Ridge", "grade": "3", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "3", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "If climbed from the corner of the Walpole Valley the ridge provides a varied fare of rock climbing over pinnacles, across chevals, and up short walls. The rock is variable and in places offers some difficult moves. The final rise to the South Peak is up short slabs interspersed with ledges. The climbing here is easier than lower on the ridge." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "C Lake, R Thompson, Feb 1976." }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki/malte-brun-range/mt-chudleigh-south-pk/reay-glacier-route", "name": "Reay Glacier Route", "grade": "2-", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": "0m", "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "2-", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "Ascend the Reay Glacier keeping on the right until overlooking the Murchison Valley and then up easy snowslopes to the South Peak. A quick and easy descent route." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": "0", "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Alex Graham, Peter Graham, Ebenezer Teichelmann, Feb 1910." } ], "places": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki/malte-brun-range/mt-chudleigh/south-peak/reay-face", "name": "Reay Face", "altitude": null, "access": null, "description": "The face consists of three buttresses - Left, Central, and Main.", "latlng": null, "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki/malte-brun-range/mt-chudleigh/south-peak/reay-face/left-buttress", "name": "Left Buttress", "grade": "13,3", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "3", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": "13", "description": "Right Pillar - enjoyable rockclimbing for ten pitches" } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Dave Begg, Hugh Logan, E Neve, N Reeves, Nov 1977." }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki/malte-brun-range/mt-chudleigh/south-peak/reay-face/central-buttress", "name": "Central Buttress", "grade": "18,3+", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "3+", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": "18", "description": "Climb the line of weakness up the obvious slabs on the right of the buttress. Five pitches of good rock of mostly grade 12 (cruxes: 14, 18, although avoidable) are followed by 12 pitches of very loose rock (crux 17). First ascensionists descended a gully between the Left and Central Buttresses." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Steve Elder, Steve Eiseman, Mar 1986." }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki/malte-brun-range/mt-chudleigh/south-peak/reay-face/main-buttress-browne-woodford", "name": "Main Buttress, Browne/ Woodford", "grade": "3", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "3", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "The route meanders from the Central Buttress to the left side of the Main Buttress." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Mike Browne, Keith Woodford, Dec 1971." }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki/malte-brun-range/mt-chudleigh/south-peak/reay-face/main-buttress-main-thompson", "name": "Main Buttress, Main/ Thompson", "grade": "13,3+", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "3+", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": "13", "description": "Up the centre of the buttress. The crux (13) of the route is up high." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Lindsay Main, Daryll Thompson, Mar 1974." } ], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] } ], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki/liebig-range/mt-lucia": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki/liebig-range/mt-lucia", "name": "Mt Lucia", "altitude": "2617m", "access": null, "description": "This peak is situated south-east of Tamaki and overlooks the Ailsa and Cass Valleys.", "latlng": [ "-43.63954", "170.321807" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki/liebig-range/mt-lucia/north-east-ridge", "name": "North East Ridge", "grade": null, "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "Traverse Tamaki and Kehua Pass (2325m), continuing along the ridge line to Lucia (also, Kehua Pass is easily gained from the head of Ailsa Stream)." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Nick von Tunzelman, Alex Parton, Dec 1963" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki/liebig-range/mt-lucia/from-ailsa-stream", "name": "From Ailsa Stream", "grade": null, "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "Starting from a shelf above the Ailsa Stream, climb up scree slopes into a snow couloir that leads to the north-west ridge and on to the summit. \r\nAn alternative lies up rotten but easy rock gained when 2/3 up the couloir." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "C S Brockett, S J Harris, N D Dench, N Feierabend, Jan 1953" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki/liebig-range/mt-lucia/south-east-ridge", "name": "South East Ridge", "grade": null, "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "Ascends from the confluence of Ailsa-Cass Valleys. Gained from Ailsa Stream." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "J T Cruse, N J Mitchell, W Nixon, Dec 1956" } ], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki/liebig-range/olaf": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki/liebig-range/olaf", "name": "Olaf", "altitude": "2614m", "access": null, "description": "tba", "latlng": [ "-43.582115", "170.402721" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki/liebig-range/olaf/unnamed", "name": "Unnamed", "grade": null, "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "As for Kenneth, gain the col and then climb the south ridge, again on poor rock. Alternatively traverse the Liebig Range from the north." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": null } ], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aspiring/forbes-mountains/sir-william-pk": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aspiring/forbes-mountains/sir-william-pk", "name": "Sir William Pk", "altitude": "2610m", "access": null, "description": "First climbed by J A Sim, V J Leader, K Grinling, December 1930.", "latlng": [ "-44.5923072", "168.40467605" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aspiring/forbes-mountains/sir-william-pk/north-face", "name": "North Face", "grade": "1,I", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": "0m", "pitches": [ { "alpine": "1", "commitment": "I", "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": null } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": "0", "natural_pro": false, "description": "From Shepherds Pass descend to the Frances Glacier and cross this to the West Ridge. Sidle round to the North Face, climbing this to the nick above the gendarme from where the northwest ridge is followed to the summit. The Frances Glacier can also be easily reached from the Bedford Valley which provides a pleasant alternative from Wright Col to the sidle round the side of Leary. The North Face has been ascended all the way to the summit and a party has climbed right over the gendarme on the northwest ridge.", "ascent": null }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aspiring/forbes-mountains/sir-william-pk/east-ridge", "name": "East Ridge", "grade": "I,2", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": "I", "mtcook": "2", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "From Shepherds Pass cross scree slopes to reach the Grant Glacier on the South Hunter face of the mountain. This can be ascended to reach the East Ridge which is followed to just before the middle of the three gendarmes. A horizontal traverse on to the North Face, which is ascended direct to the summit, avoids the buttress further up the ridge.\r\n\r\nFrom the West Hunter a variety of routes connect with those mentioned above. There are many variations possible in the above routes." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": null }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aspiring/forbes-mountains/sir-william-pk/south-ridge", "name": "South Ridge", "grade": "II,2", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": "II", "mtcook": "2", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "Climb from Shepherds Pass. The first step is passed by a ledge on the Frances side and a chimney. The second step is passed on the South Hunter side and the third step, to reach the top of the buttress, on the Frances side again using the shelf running right across the mountain. The ridge is then followed just on the Frances side until another step presents the most technical climbing. Above this the ridge eases to the summit." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "G.N. Tunzelman and Bob Lidstone, 1963." } ], "places": [], "image": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/wide/public/image/Earnslaw_Massif_opt_3.jpeg?itok=C0slA0BE", "images": [ { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/wide/public/image/Earnslaw_Massif_opt_3.jpeg?itok=C0slA0BE", "height": "431", "width": "682" } ] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki/fox-range/le-receveur": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki/fox-range/le-receveur", "name": "Le Receveur", "altitude": "2609m", "access": null, "description": "tba", "latlng": [ "-43.55129503", "170.1323143" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki/fox-range/le-receveur/standard-route", "name": "Standard Route", "grade": "2-", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "2-", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "A classic easy snow ar\u00eate from Katies Col, however schrunds may prove difficult late in the season." } ], "quality": 1, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Harold Porter, Marcel Kurz, Feb 1927." } ], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/nelson-lakes-kaikc58dura/seaward-kaikoura-range/manakau": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/nelson-lakes-kaikc58dura/seaward-kaikoura-range/manakau", "name": "Manakau", "altitude": "2608m", "access": null, "description": "Highest peak on the Seaward Kaikoura Range, Manakau is a major climb with a large height gain. In summer it is barren, hot and dry, in winter a long snow climb during short daylight hours. In fine weather the views are magnificent. The first ascent is thought to be by James Ingram in 1874.", "latlng": [ "-42.22527313", "173.61779098" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/nelson-lakes-kaik%C5%8Dura/seaward-kaik%C5%8Dura-range/manakau/uwerau", "name": "Via Uwerau", "grade": null, "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": "Continuing to Manakau from Uwerau is straightforward.", "ascent": null }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/nelson-lakes-kaikc58dura/seaward-kaikc58dura-range/manakau/east-face", "name": "East Face", "grade": null, "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": "1800m", "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": "1800m", "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "" } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": "0", "natural_pro": false, "description": "The East Face has been climbed in spring conditions. This is steep and rugged terrain, accessed from the H\u0101puku River and guarded by a gorge and waterfalls in Stace Creek.", "ascent": null }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/nelson-lakes-kaik%C5%8Dura/seaward-kaik%C5%8Dura-range/manakau/surveyor-spur-route", "name": "Surveyor Spur Route", "grade": "1+,II", "topo_ref": "2", "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": "1+", "commitment": "II", "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "" } ], "quality": 1, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": "Surveyor Spur is the spur between Mt Stace and the main range. Follow the Hapuku River north branch, now choked with shingle after the 2016 earthquake, until the river swings northeast below Stace Saddle. Further upstream, the old Barratts Hut and bivvy are buried under a large landslip, which has also destroyed an alternative route onto the spur. The summit is an 1850m height gain, so it\u2019s best to camp higher if possible. Stace Saddle (1045m) is easily reached, then follow the spur. The first few hundred metres above the saddle has many tension cracks about 0.5m deep. Fine in daylight but easy to miss by head torch, and not good in wet conditions. There is a good campsite near some large boulders at about 1940m, and in winter and spring there will usually be snow hereabouts. Elsewhere the spur is waterless. Angle up easy slopes to an obvious dip in the main range. In summer it may be necessary to camp in the Stace Creek basin below this dip. Continue along the ridge crest, which steepens beyond a shallow saddle, and bypassing some gendarmes on the north side. Inexperienced parties may prefer a rope here. The traverse to Uwerau is generally straightforward and especially satisfying.", "ascent": null }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/nelson-lakes-kaikc58dura/seaward-kaikc58dura-range/manakau/surveyor-spur-alternative", "name": "Surveyor Spur alternative", "grade": null, "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": "1800m", "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": "1800m", "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": null } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": "0", "natural_pro": false, "description": "Access to an alternative route onto Surveyor Spur, starting from O31 659 850 / BT27 559 234, appears no longer possible after the 2016 earthquake. The route was as follows: At a large cairn before the first major tributary on the true right, look for a plastic road marker pole. Initially follow through fern, then move left onto a steep open slope with tussock and scrub. Keep left of all major slips. From a small grass terrace, climb through alpine shrubs, lightly cut. Occasional poles mark the route, however most are not visible from above, hence this route is difficult to follow as a descent, especially if snow covered in the alpine scrub section. Then follow a narrowing ridge. At about 1300m is a small open bivvy site (no water). The route meets the main Surveyor Spur just above the 1940m campsite.", "ascent": null }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/nelson-lakes-kaik%C5%8Dura/seaward-kaik%C5%8Dura-range/manakau/north-ridge", "name": "North Ridge", "grade": "3+", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "3+", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "" } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": "A remote and very long route from the Waiau Toa Clarence valley. The lower part of the ridge \u2013 Fidget Spur \u2013 can be reached in two ways. One is from the end of the 4WD track at Stony Flat on the south bank of the Waiau Toa Clarence River (55 km from Kahutara Bridge on the Inland Kaikoura Road). The alternative is from the lower Waiau Toa Clarence, via George Saddle and Haycock Saddle and picking up an old overgrown pack route which sidles westwards and descends to Fidget Stream. Gain the ridge on the true left of Fidget Stream by any convenient side spur. Abseil into the crux, an 80m deep notch. Continue climbing on solid rock till a second 25m deep notch is reached, abseil into this, and then easier ground to the summit.", "ascent": "Dave Barker, Roger Redmayne, Trevor Bissell, Bruce Anderson, February 1986" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/nelson-lakes-kaik%C5%8Dura/seaward-kaik%C5%8Dura-range/manakau/dubious-stream-route", "name": "Dubious Stream Route", "grade": null, "topo_ref": "1", "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "" } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": "A very remote route. Dubious Stream can be reached from the lower Waiau Toa Clarence via George Saddle, Haycock Saddle to Fidget Stream and then via Spring Gully and Packers Stream, or else by the 4WD track on the south bank of the Waiau Toa Clarence River to Goose Flat (50 km from Kahutara Bridge on the Inland Kaikoura Road). A high scree basin north-west of Manakau can be reached via a main eastern tributary of Dubious Stream just upstream of Lacebark Stream.", "ascent": null } ], "places": [], "image": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/wide/public/image/Mt%20Manakau..jpg?itok=3X-W_fIr", "images": [ { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/wide/public/image/Mt%20Manakau..jpg?itok=3X-W_fIr", "height": "640", "width": "855" } ] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki/liebig-range/the-abbess": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki/liebig-range/the-abbess", "name": "The Abbess", "altitude": "2607m", "access": null, "description": "tba", "latlng": [ "-43.674314", "170.290565" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki/liebig-range/the-abbess/unnamed", "name": "Unnamed", "grade": null, "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "Gain Abbey Pass and descend to the Monk Glacier, towards Pinnacle Stream, then climb an easy couloir to the summit." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Harold Porter, Jim Rose, J Milne, Jan 1925" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki/liebig-range/the-abbess/south-east-ridge", "name": "South East Ridge", "grade": "15,4,III", "topo_ref": null, "image": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/routes/The%20Abbess%20-%20South%20East%20Ridge.jpg?itok=HPZ2xqmQ", "images": [ { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/routes/The%20Abbess%20-%20South%20East%20Ridge.jpg?itok=HPZ2xqmQ", "height": "217", "width": "325" } ], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": "4", "commitment": "III", "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": "15", "description": "Follow ramps west of the ridge base to gain a wide chimney. Continue on good rock and loose ledges up the ridge, deviating west as required. Climb 4 pitches of 13-15 through a large pyramid shaped slab at c2000m trending east till a traverse on the east side ends at a col behind the pyramid with a good bivvy ledge. Follow the west side of the ridge till it turns west and the glacier is reached. Climb exposed grade 13-15 on good rock then gain summit via loose slopes and the ridge from the south. Straightforward descent off the NW face. A long fun route on mostly good rock. Around 10 pitches." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Keeley Rhynd and Ryan Nicol. 17 February 2019" } ], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aspiring/main-divide/mt-avalanche": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aspiring/main-divide/mt-avalanche", "name": "Mt Avalanche", "altitude": "2606m", "access": null, "description": "Avalanche is a very attractive mountain, especially as seen from French Ridge. It\noffers a variety of routes, several of which are \u2018on\u2019 in a relatively short day from the hut or if the weather is looking doubtful.", "latlng": [ "-44.42230701", "168.74113053" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aspiring/main-divide/mt-avalanche/north-ridge", "name": "North Ridge", "grade": "III,2", "topo_ref": "1", "image": null, "images": [], "length": "0m", "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": "III", "mtcook": "2", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": null } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": "0", "natural_pro": false, "description": "The ridge is reached from the head of the Bonar Glacier. Most parties, seeking protection from the weather, have climbed on very exposed ledges on the Kitchener side, however, the crest of the ridge or the western slabs may be more desirable in good conditions. Two prominent steps occur. The first is low on the ridge and can apparently be negotiated on either side, but the upper one is turned by ledges on the east. The ridge takes 3\u20134 hours from the head of the glacier or 6\u20137 hours from French Ridge Hut.", "ascent": "Neil Hamilton, Pearl Wright, Ron Knightley (descended), 4 January 1949" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aspiring/main-divide/mt-avalanche/west-ridge", "name": "West Ridge", "grade": "10,II,2", "topo_ref": "2", "image": null, "images": [], "length": "0m", "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": "II", "mtcook": "2", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": "10", "description": null } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": "0", "natural_pro": false, "description": "Climb to the Bonar via the Quarterdeck and continue up the glacier on the north side of the ridge to avoid the gendarmes of the lower section. Gain the ridge at the foot of the slabs. Although some of the rock is loose, the slabs offer pleasant climbing (approx. rock grade 10) and lead directly to the West (highest) Peak. The time necessary from the hut to the summit is usually between 4 to 6 hours.", "ascent": "Dennis Leigh, Bill Walker, Jock Sim, January 1935" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aspiring/main-divide/mt-avalanche/maud-francis-glacier", "name": "From the Maud Francis Glacier", "grade": "III,2", "topo_ref": "4", "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": "III", "mtcook": "2", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "From the Maud Francis Glacier cross the schrund to reach the steep snow ramp leading up below but parallel to the slabs of the West Ridge. The ramp joins the summit ridge just east of the West Peak. This route has been skied." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": null }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aspiring/main-divide/mt-avalanche/maud-francis-glacier-snow-lead", "name": "Maud Francis Glacier (snow lead)", "grade": "III,1+", "topo_ref": "5", "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": "III", "mtcook": "1+", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "A less prominent, and less steep, snow lead rises from the Maud Francis Glacier almost directly below the notch of the summit ridge. The snow runs out about 30 metres below the middle peak and the climb is completed on the easy rock of the South Ridge. Late in the season this route may be almost clear of snow and may be followed on easy slabs." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": null }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aspiring/main-divide/mt-avalanche/south-ridge", "name": "South Ridge", "grade": "III,2", "topo_ref": "6", "image": null, "images": [], "length": "0m", "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": "III", "mtcook": "2", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": null } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": "0", "natural_pro": false, "description": "The South Ridge leads directly to the Middle Peak. Climb the Quarterdeck to the Bonar and descend the Flightdeck to reach the Maud Francis Glacier. The rock of the South Ridge is reached from a snow lead where the ridge begins to steepen towards the peak.\nDuring the first ascent most of the climbing was done on the steep loose rock of the eastern side of the ridge in order to escape the wind but in better conditions the slabby western side may be found easier. The prominent tower about halfway up is turned on the west. The first ascent was made in 5 hours from Colin Todd Hut and the climb would probably take a similar time from French Ridge.\nTo traverse to the East Peak requires only a few minutes along an easy ridge. The traverse to the West Peak has not been made in this direction, but would probably involve rappelling into the notch.", "ascent": "Tony Bowden, Graham Bishop, January 1963" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aspiring/main-divide/mt-avalanche/west-east-peak-traverse", "name": "West to East Peak Traverse", "grade": "IV,4", "topo_ref": "7", "image": null, "images": [], "length": "0m", "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": "IV", "mtcook": "4", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": null } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": "0", "natural_pro": false, "description": "The traverse of the summit ridge is a far more exacting proposition than the West Ridge. The crux of the traverse is a deep notch, which requires a very delicate descent of a 40m wall and an even more difficult climb out the other side. Kennedy and Innes took seven hours from the west to the middle peak, of which three were spent getting past the notch.\nThe ridge from the middle to the East Peak is straightforward and normally requires only a few minutes. This route has probably not had a second ascent.", "ascent": "Laurie Kennedy, Dave Innes, February 1969" } ], "places": [], "image": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/wide/public/image/Avalanche_fmt_1.jpeg?itok=fGGwsXE2", "images": [ { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/wide/public/image/Avalanche_fmt_1.jpeg?itok=fGGwsXE2", "height": "323", "width": "510" } ] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki/banks-range/mt-dilemma": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki/banks-range/mt-dilemma", "name": "Dilemma Pk", "altitude": "2602m", "access": null, "description": "Getting off Dilemma:\nThe easiest way off Dilemma avoids the East Peak and rotten rock. From the West Peak scramble down the eastern edge of the Strauchon Face for 150m (100ms vertical where there is a small shelf), then drop down a diagonal ledge system to snow 100 metres below. There are a number of spikes to abseil off. If the ledges are snowed up, abseil from the first notch between West and East Peaks, anchors in-situ (grade 2). Traverse across and up to a rock gendarme on the Main Divide, 100m north of Beatrice. Follow a snow ridge on the western side, passing under rock on the divide. At a rock rib that cuts westward, climb back to the divide, crossing it, and descend on the Hooker Valley side, traversing below the divide. This cross-over point is crucial. Continue along the crest over broken rock to Baker Saddle. It is also theoretically possible to rappel the Direttissima Route. This is not recommended as it would take all day and the bolts could be difficult to find (or have been destroyed), especially at night.\nOther options: If descending from Beatrice, drop onto eastern snow slopes (go south first if necessary) and continue along snow to Baker Saddle.", "latlng": [ "-43.625225", "170.089077" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki/banks-range/mt-dilemma/standard-route", "name": "Standard Route", "grade": "2+", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "2+", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "Via Baker Saddle and Mt Beatrice, climb l00m of steep rotten rock to the East Summit. The ridge to the West Peak involves exposed scrambling on better rock." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "East Peak (2594m): Hugh Chambers, Peter Graham, Dorothy Holdsworth, Jan 1914." } ], "places": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki/banks-range/mt-dilemma/strauchon-face", "name": "Strauchon Face", "altitude": null, "access": null, "description": "Rock routes that are accessed out of the Strauchon Glacier.", "latlng": null, "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki/banks-range/mt-dilemma/strauchon-face/compressor-route", "name": "Compressor Route", "grade": "16,5", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": "1400m", "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "5", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": "1400m", "bolts": "33", "trad": false, "ewbank": "16", "description": "Start at the top of the left hand snow cone, near the cascade draining from the hanging glacier. From the first bolts climb up the corner of a left-leading slab (14) for 2 pitches then up broken ground, next to the cascade, to a steep wall. Traverse right on a big ledge and up another slab to the rib below the hanging glacier. This is a good bivvy spot (5 pitches up). From the hanging glacier, start climbing up obvious large crack systems (not the Carter-Gough route) for a couple of pitches. Then head straight up though an obvious roof (3-4 pitches above the hanging glacier). Continue to sloping ledges. The Direct Route should be visible on the right: a left-facing corner that runs all the way up, just left of an overhang at the top. The bolt line climbs a jagged corner 30m left of this. Avoid a roof on the left (15 pitches above the ice) but climb through the next overhang (bolt runners, crux ~15/16). Continue up good slabs to flakey rock moving slightly to the right to reach the summit, 15m left of the Direct Route. Bolt belays (can be difficult to find). 40 pitches. There is a bivvy ledge 50m below the summit \u2013 Hotel Hilti." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": "33", "natural_pro": false, "description": "Despite being decribed as a 'Direttissima' The bottom of this climb uses a zigzag way to reach the hanging glacier from where the main face really starts.\nStart at the top of the left hand snow cone, near the cascade draining from the hanging glacier (the bigger snow cone and gully the right has always been the traditional start for both Dilemma and Unicorn but funnels all the rock down it from the latter mountain which has collapsed).\nFrom the first bolts climb up the corner of a left-leading slab (14) for 2 pitches, then up broken ground next to the cascade to a steep wall. Traverse right on a big ledge and then up another left leaning slab to the rib below the hanging glacier. This is a good bivvy spot (5 pitches up).\nFrom the hanging glacier, start climbing up obvious large crack systems (not the Carter-Gough route) for a couple of pitches. Then head straight up though an obvious roof (3-4 pitches above the hanging glacier). Continue to sloping ledges. The Direct Route should be visible on the right: a left-facing corner that runs all the way up, just left of an overhang at the top. The Compressor or so called Direttissima bolt line climbs a jagged corner 30m left of this. Avoid a roof on the left (15 pitches above the ice) but climb through the next overhang (bolt runners, crux ~15/16). Continue up good slabs to flakey rock moving slightly to the right to reach the summit, 15m left of the Direct Route. Bolt belays can be very difficult to find. 33 pitches. There is a bivvy ledge 50m below the summit \u2013 Hotel Hilti.", "ascent": "Peter Dickson, Mar 1991." }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki/banks-range/mt-dilemma/strauchon-face/direct", "name": "Direct", "grade": "15,5", "topo_ref": null, "image": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/route/Dilemma%20summer.jpg?itok=AMHhTgPn", "images": [ { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/route/Dilemma%20summer.jpg?itok=AMHhTgPn", "height": "244", "width": "325" }, { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/routes/Directissma%20Start.JPG?itok=f_g_71mp", "height": "197", "width": "325" } ], "length": "1500m", "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "5", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": "1500m", "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": "15", "description": "From the lower Strauchon Glacier gain the hanging glacier on the face via a narrow gully to the right of the glacier to reach a shingle rib, or use the Direttissima start up the buttress. Cross to the glacier and start 50m to the left of the Dilemma-Unicorn corner. Climb easily up to a huge arch and tend left into a left-facing corner. The corner runs all the way up the face, passing beside an overhang near the top, to finish on the ridge right of the summit. A sustained ~30 pitch climb with crux pitches of 15. Anchors are sometimes hard to find.\r\n\r\nSome Update of details. DCF Feb 2021. We approached the hanging glacier from the waterfall that drains the western side of the hanging glacier. This route is prone to rockfall. We took the safer western side of the water fall. 5 pitches, with the second pitch having some good unprotected slab moves. Protection is thin. My advice is to use the Directissma approach which is less prone to rockfall. The only comfortable bivy sites are the hanging glacier (varies in size season by season) and at the col between Dilemma and Unicorn. The main face from the hanging glacier to the col is 24 pitches. About another 5 pitches to the summit. Climbing is about grade 13. Gear is thin, but it is there with some hard work. Rock is great. Water can be a problem but there is snow at the col." } ], "quality": 1, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Fred From, Murray Judge, Nic Kagan, Nov 1978." }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki/banks-range/mt-dilemma/strauchon-face/carter-gough", "name": "Carter-Gough", "grade": "15,5", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "5", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": "15", "description": "Gain the hanging glacier but start 100m left of the Direct. Sustained slab climbing up irregular crack systems leads eventually to a prominent point four pitches left and below the summit. A fine climb with crux pitches of grade 15." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Brian Carter, Peter Gough, Jan 1973." }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki/banks-range/mt-dilemma/strauchon-face/misty-mountain-hop", "name": "Misty Mountain Hop", "grade": "5", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "5", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "Commencing on the left side of the hanging glacier ascend directly up the slabs left of the Carter-Gough route to reach the ridge running north-west from the summit. Once on the ridge, climb seven pitches to the summit." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "John Goulstone, Mike Rockell, Feb 1983." } ], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] } ], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki/liebig-range/mt-conrad": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki/liebig-range/mt-conrad", "name": "Mt Conrad", "altitude": "2598m", "access": null, "description": "Liebig Range", "latlng": [ "-43.5616217", "170.41871452" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki/liebig-range/mt-conrad/south-ridge", "name": "South Ridge", "grade": null, "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "Climb the slopes of the Surprise Glacier to Godley Pass and then ascend the South Ridge. The South Ridge can be accessed nearer to Conrad by climbing the gully immediately north of Whispering Falls, and following a snow basin to the South Ridge. Alternatively, traverse from Armadillo Saddle or a point nearer the peak (two rock steps near the summit offer good quality climbing)." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Conrad Kain, Otto Frind, Jan 1914" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki/liebig-range/mt-conrad/west-face", "name": "West Face", "grade": "14", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": "300m", "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": "300m", "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": "14", "description": "Warm and pleasant rock slabs." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Shelley Hersey, Paul Hersey, Jamie Vinton-Boot, January 2012" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki/liebig-range/mt-conrad/north-ridge", "name": "North Ridge", "grade": null, "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "Start on rock from the Harper Glacier under Armadillo Saddle. In good snow conditions sidle under the ridge to Conrad, gain access to the peak roughly 200m from the summit." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "K Wade, I Dainis, Jan 1965 (Descended)" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki/liebig-range/mt-conrad/east-ridge", "name": "East Ridge", "grade": null, "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "Climb from Rutherford Stream." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Philip Temple, Brian Turner, Jan 1977" } ], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki/main-divide/mt-isabel": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki/main-divide/mt-isabel", "name": "Mt Isabel", "altitude": "2598m", "access": null, "description": "South of Twain Col", "latlng": [ "-43.73187279", "170.0137885" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki/main-divide/mt-isabel/twain-col", "name": "Via Twain Col", "grade": "2+", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "2+", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "" } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": "Via Twain Col, climb south along the Main Divide over Mt Eric. The rock on\nthe ridge is rather rotten. See Twain Col [1].\n[1] http://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/main-divide-of-the-southern-alps/twain-col", "ascent": "Peter Graham, Samuel Turner, March 1914" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki/main-divide/mt-isabel/south-ridge", "name": "South Ridge", "grade": null, "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": "Appears to be climbable along the Main Divide from Mt Bannie.", "ascent": "No recorded ascents" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki/main-divide/mt-isabel/west-face", "name": "West Face", "grade": null, "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": "Appears to be climbable from the head of the McKerrow Glacier but no recorded\nascents have been uncovered.", "ascent": null }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki/main-divide/mt-isabel/north-west-ridge", "name": "North West Ridge", "grade": "3-", "topo_ref": null, "image": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/route/isabel.jpg?itok=o7DzeLx1", "images": [ { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/route/isabel.jpg?itok=o7DzeLx1", "height": "204", "width": "325" } ], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "3-", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": null } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": "Traverse around the north side of Awatea Peak to access Isabel-Awatea Col.\nFrom the col, climb the ridge for about 150m on excellent rock at around\ngrade 10/11. A short, exposed, rising traverse at around grade 12 (one 45m\npitch) leads to an easy ledge and the base of a short steep corner. The\ncorner is the crux of the route and goes at about grade 14. From the top of\nthe corner, about 130m of steep scrambling leads to the summit. Descent was\nvia the NE ridge (the original ascent route) to the Isabel-Eric Col, then\ndown a short icefall back to the base of the route. The divide ridge was\nappallingly loose rock over several steep towers and the first ascensionists\ndid three short abseils to get through.", "ascent": "Rob Frost, Simon Mills, March 2008" } ], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aspiring/snowdrift-range/mt-maoriri": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aspiring/snowdrift-range/mt-maoriri", "name": "Mt Maoriri", "altitude": "2595m", "access": null, "description": "Maoriri was first climbed in December 1937, by George Lockwood, Arch Wiren, and Jock Sim by traversing below the ridge from Edward, but there is no record of a direct ascent from the Dart.", "latlng": [ "-44.458326", "168.584861" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aspiring/snowdrift-range/mt-maoriri/east-face", "name": "East Face", "grade": "2,II", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": "0m", "pitches": [ { "alpine": "2", "commitment": "II", "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": null } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": "0", "natural_pro": false, "description": "The direct route is up snow slopes from Whitbourn Saddle.", "ascent": null }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aspiring/snowdrift-range/mt-maoriri/south-ridge", "name": "South Ridge", "grade": "II,2", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": "0m", "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": "II", "mtcook": "2", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": null } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": "0", "natural_pro": false, "description": "From Edward a traverse along or below the ridge to Maoriri appears straightforward.", "ascent": null } ], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/canterbury/wild-mans-brother-range/east-horn": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/canterbury/wild-mans-brother-range/east-horn", "name": "East Horn", "altitude": "2591m", "access": null, "description": "na", "latlng": [ "-43.360758", "170.987005" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/canterbury/wild-mans-brother-range/east-horn/ashburton-glacier", "name": "From Ashburton Glacier", "grade": "3", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "3", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "From the upper Ashburton Glacier follow a steep, narrow couloir (subject to rock fall) to a col\r\njust west of East Horn\u2019s summit. If conditions dictate, move on to a rock rib to the right as the\r\ncouloir runs out. The summit is a short scramble along the ridge." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "John Morris, R L Holland, January 1970" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/canterbury/wild-mans-brother-range/east-horn/douglas-glacier", "name": "From Douglas Glacier", "grade": "2-", "topo_ref": "DG", "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "2-", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "Climb the Douglas Glacier to a small col overlooking the South Cameron Glacier. From here\r\nclimb the East Face on loose rock. The final section is steep and exposed." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Bob Watson, Laurie Osbourne, 1952" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/canterbury/wild-mans-brother-range/east-horn/north-couloir", "name": "North Couloir", "grade": "2-", "topo_ref": "NC", "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "2-", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "From the South Cameron n\u00e9v\u00e9, climb a col of rotten rock just west of the summit and scramble\r\nthe last few metres to the top." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Bruce Banfield, Bob Logan, 1940" } ], "places": [], "image": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/wide/public/image/East%20Horn.png?itok=ZXq7dTUY", "images": [ { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/wide/public/image/East%20Horn.png?itok=ZXq7dTUY", "height": "595", "width": "900" } ] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/main-divide-of-the-southern-alps/mt-loughnan": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/main-divide-of-the-southern-alps/mt-loughnan", "name": "Mt Loughnan", "altitude": "2590m", "access": null, "description": "First climbed via the North East Ridge from the Grey Glacier by J Shanks, D A Carty, H Smith and L\nDumbleton on 29 December 1935, turning gendarmes on the south-eastern side of the ridge.", "latlng": [ "-43.434193", "170.475436" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/main-divide-of-the-southern-alps/mt-loughnan/grey-glacier", "name": "From the Grey Glacier", "grade": null, "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "At the head of the Grey Glacier climb up to two detached rocks at the base of the third buttress east of the peak, then ascend the rock rib to the Main Divide. As an alternative, head up snow slopes west of the detached rocks to the Main Divide, then traverse the serrated ridge turning gendarmes on the south. The first peak is considered the summit." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "J Shanks, D A Carty, H Smith, L Dumbleton, Dec 1935" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/main-divide-of-the-southern-alps/mt-loughnan/north-west-flank", "name": "North West Flank", "grade": "2+", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "2+", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "From the Butler River head up the valley draining Grey Pass, initially sidling on the true right\r\nto reach the basin above the 1100-metre contour. At about 1600 metres, head south-west over\r\nrock to a reach a snow shelf at about 1800 metres. Head south up a steeper band of slabby rock\r\nto the left of a small buttress and continue over a rib to the eastern edge of the permanent snow\r\nslope north of the peak at about 2100 metres. Continue up rock and snow bands left of the main\r\nsnow gully, reaching the Main Divide at about 2480 metres. Snowslopes lead to the summit." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Don French, Paul Richardson, Jan 1982" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/main-divide-of-the-southern-alps/mt-loughnan/south-ridge", "name": "South Ridge", "grade": "2+", "topo_ref": "SR", "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "2+", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "Access the Nansen n\u00e9v\u00e9 from the South Butler Valley. From the sharp col between Pt 2413\r\nmetres and Pt 2540 metres, steep firm rock on the first ascent (but steep snow slopes on a subsequent\r\none), led to the Main Divide. Traverse over various small summits along the narrow\r\nand exposed South (Divide) Ridge. A step on the ridge is reportedly less difficult than it looks." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "John Harrison, B H (Snow) Williams, Laurie Osborne, Bruce Waterhouse, January 1954" } ], "places": [], "image": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/wide/public/image/Loughnan_1.png?itok=CDyzWKJo", "images": [ { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/wide/public/image/Loughnan_1.png?itok=CDyzWKJo", "height": "574", "width": "900" } ] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/canterbury/naumann-range/mt-glenmary": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/canterbury/naumann-range/mt-glenmary", "name": "Mt Glenmary", "altitude": "2590m", "access": null, "description": "Naumann Range", "latlng": [ "-43.97686551", "169.87831823" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/canterbury/naumann-range/mt-glenmary/south-east-ridge-dobson", "name": "South East Ridge - From the Dobson", "grade": "3+", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "3+", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": null } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": "There are no recorded ascent of Glenmary beginning in the Dobson but the\nsouth east ridge to the summit is an obvious climb. Access via Sutherland\nStream leads up a steep couloir to the col at 2300m. Alternative access to\nthe south east ridge can be gained from Jamieson Stream or from the lower\nHopkins Valley.", "ascent": null }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/canterbury/naumann-range/mt-glenmary/south-east-ridge-hopkins", "name": "South East Ridge - From the Hopkins", "grade": "3+", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "3+", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": null } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": "From Red Hut follow the path described in 3.03 above to reach the remnant\nglacier on the south side of Glenmary. Angle up the slope to reach the col\noverlooking Sutherland Stream and commence ascent of the summit pyramid. The\nridge is airy and narrow, over a kilometre in length, and appears to provide\na rewarding climb. Descent can be via the standard north west face route.", "ascent": "Bob Bauld, George Moir, Arch Wiren, December 1946" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/canterbury/naumann-range/mt-glenmary/all-presidents-men", "name": "All The President's Men", "grade": "4-", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "4-", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": null } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": "From Red Hut follow the path described in 3.03 above to reach the remnant\nglacier on the south side of Glenmary. The 750m high face and central\ncouloir, which is visible from Monument Hut, provides an interesting mixed\nrock and ice route in summer, and finishes on the east ridge 100m from the\nsummit. The rock on the lower section of the zigzag is fractured and requires\nplenty of concentration.", "ascent": "Ross Cullen, Geoff Gabites, February 1993" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/canterbury/naumann-range/mt-glenmary/south-west-ridge", "name": "South West Ridge", "grade": "3+", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "3+", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": null } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": "From a kilometre north of Red Hut travel through the beech forest to the foot\nof the ridge. Towers on the ridge are turned by sidling across both west and\nnorth faces. The first ascent party were benighted high on the ridge - they\nwere the first party to discover that the route is long and requires\nconsiderable time on the sometimes friable rock. A challenging climb.", "ascent": "Scott Gilkison, ErniePresland, Harry Stevenson, November 1934" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/canterbury/naumann-range/mt-glenmary/west-face", "name": "West Face", "grade": "3", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "3", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": null } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": "From a kilometre north of Red Hut travel through the beech forest into the\nbasin at the foot of the face. Or, commenc e the North West face route 3.08,\nand climb over the North West ridge near H37, GR 596 885 drop 200m altitude\nto reach the base of west face. A blunt ar\u00eate provides the obvious feature\non the broad face, with two bluffy sections guarding the summit pyramid.\nZigzagup the face to the summit.", "ascent": "Ed Glass, Jim McNulty, Ray Slater 1950\u2019s" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/canterbury/naumann-range/mt-glenmary/north-west-face", "name": "North West Face", "grade": "3", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "3", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": null } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": "From Dasler Bivouac sidle under the Dasler Pinnacles, gain height up the\ngully and ascend Glenmary via the obvious snowpatch, and solid red rock. This\nis the normal descent route from the mountain.", "ascent": "First ascent uncertain but climbed by Ed Glass, Jim McNulty, Ray Slater, February 1950" } ], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/nelson-lakes-kaikc58dura/seaward-kaikoura-range/te-ao-whekere": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/nelson-lakes-kaikc58dura/seaward-kaikoura-range/te-ao-whekere", "name": "Te Ao Whekere", "altitude": "2590m", "access": "North of Kaik\u014dura, turn off SH1 onto Puhi Puhi Rd on the north bank of the Hapuku River bridge. The shortest route is from Happy Valley but permission must be obtained to cross Puhi Peaks Station land.", "description": "The second highest peak of the Seaward Kaik\u014dura Range and a good winter climb.", "latlng": [ "-42.18612734", "173.69489759" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/nelson-lakes-kaikc58dura/seaward-kaikoura-range/te-ao-whekere/jordan-stream-route", "name": "Jordan Stream Route", "grade": "1-,II", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": "2300m", "pitches": [ { "alpine": "1-", "commitment": "II", "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": "2300m", "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": null } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": "0", "natural_pro": false, "description": "Follow Jordan Stream to the major fork, and continue up the true left branch till at 700m where the stream swings west. Just upstream of the 700m contour, look for a scree that goes most of the way down to the true left branch, climb this onto the major spur running north-west. The spur levels at 1500m, where there are campsites, with water in the head of Range Stream. Continue to the tops surrounding the head of Happy Valley Stream, follow around the rim and north to the summit. A long but straightforward route.", "ascent": null }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/nelson-lakes-kaikc58dura/seaward-kaikoura-range/te-ao-whekere/totaranui-route", "name": "Totaranui Route", "grade": "1-,II", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": "2200m", "pitches": [ { "alpine": "1-", "commitment": "II", "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": "2200m", "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": null } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": "0", "natural_pro": false, "description": "The major spur of the Jordan Stream Route can also be joined at around 1400m by following spurs from Totaranui Farm on Puhi Puhi Rd. The spur levels at 1500m, where there are campsites, with water in the head of Range Stream. Continue to the tops surrounding the head of Happy Valley Stream, follow around the rim and north to the summit. A long but straightforward route. Request permission from Brent Barber, phone 027 272 6315.", "ascent": null }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/nelson-lakes-kaikc58dura/seaward-kaikoura-range/te-ao-whekere/happy-valley-route", "name": "Happy Valley Route", "grade": "1,II", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": "2000m", "pitches": [ { "alpine": "1", "commitment": "II", "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": "2000m", "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "" } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": "0", "natural_pro": false, "description": "Happy Valley is reached via Puhi Peaks Station and permission is required to cross their land.\nAt a gate on a saddle overlooking Puhi Peaks Station, follow ridge-top fence lines west to Pt 1086m, then farm tracks which descend into Happy Valley. There is a good campsite on a tussock shelf (map ref BT27 597 287). Climb steep tussock and scree slopes above the campsite, or a rocky rib slightly downstream, to a scree spur, and sidle into the large basin east of the summit. Alternatively, continue up to the head of Happy Valley Stream, and climb scree northwards, crossing a spur falling from point 2430m, and easy slopes to the summit. This is also a good descent route.", "ascent": null }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/nelson-lakes-kaik%C5%8Dura/seaward-kaik%C5%8Dura-range/te-ao-whekere/haycock-ridge", "name": "Haycock Ridge", "grade": null, "topo_ref": "HR", "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "" } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": "A remote and very long route from the Waiau Toa Clarence valley. The start of the ridge at Haycock Saddle can be reached in two ways. One is from the end of the 4WD track at Stony Flat on the south bank of the Waiau Toa Clarence River (55 km from Kahutara Bridge on the Inland Kaikoura Road). The alternative is from the lower Waiau Toa Clarence, via George Saddle and then up Jam Stream. A rocky tower at 2130m is the main obstacle.", "ascent": null } ], "places": [], "image": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/wide/public/image/Inland%20Kai%20-%20Copy%201.jpg?itok=Iven8ph_", "images": [ { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/wide/public/image/Inland%20Kai%20-%20Copy%201.jpg?itok=Iven8ph_", "height": "505", "width": "877" }, { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/image/1-File0012.jpg?itok=48epfckA", "height": "208", "width": "325" } ] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aspiring/forbes-mountains/mt-head": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aspiring/forbes-mountains/mt-head", "name": "Mt Head", "altitude": "2585m", "access": null, "description": "Forbes Mountains", "latlng": [ "-44.5563683", "168.43017697" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aspiring/forbes-mountains/mt-head/west-ridge", "name": "West Ridge", "grade": "1,I", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": "0m", "pitches": [ { "alpine": "1", "commitment": "I", "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": null } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": "0", "natural_pro": false, "description": "From the West Hunter and Jura Glacier. Access to the Jura Glacier is via a rough gully beginning at E40 473 159 that climbs left to the glacier.", "ascent": null }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aspiring/forbes-mountains/mt-head/north-east-ridge", "name": "North East Ridge.", "grade": "I,1", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": "I", "mtcook": "1", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "From the West Hunter, traverse on the right hand side of point 2035 and onto the South East Ridge of Moira. From the ridge, cross the Grant Glacier and gain the col between Moira Peak and Mt Head, and then ascend ridge to summit. \r\n\r\nA traverse of Mt Head and Moira Peak from the West Hunter bivvy is a great trip to do." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": null } ], "places": [], "image": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/wide/public/image/JC_Moira_Head_opt_0.jpeg?itok=zHNkwzFp", "images": [ { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/wide/public/image/JC_Moira_Head_opt_0.jpeg?itok=zHNkwzFp", "height": "365", "width": "539" } ] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/canterbury/two-thumb-range/mt-forbes": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/canterbury/two-thumb-range/mt-forbes", "name": "Mt Forbes", "altitude": "2583m", "access": null, "description": "Mt Forbes was first climbed by Hugh Wright and Jim Murphy in February 1912 during their return to\nMt Cook after the first ascent of Mt Arrowsmith.", "latlng": [ "-43.49546022", "170.5878067" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/canterbury/two-thumb-range/mt-forbes/ballium-snowfield", "name": "From the Ballium Snowfield", "grade": null, "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Edgar Williams, Jan 1932" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/canterbury/two-thumb-range/mt-forbes/south-face", "name": "South Face", "grade": "1+", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "1+", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "From the upper Macaulay River, reach the head of McKinnon Stream from the ridge north of\r\nPt 2437 metres. Descend to the glacier and follow it to the summit." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Ian Powell, Arthur Thompson, Frank Simpson, L Pracy, T Cameron, January 1940" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/canterbury/two-thumb-range/mt-forbes/north-west-ridge", "name": "North West Ridge", "grade": "1+", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "1+", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "From Twilight Col (see below) climb the rock ridge directly to the summit or, for an easier\r\nclimb, sidle south across the upper Butcher Glacier and then up the west face." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": null }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/canterbury/two-thumb-range/mt-forbes/south-east-ridge", "name": "South East Ridge", "grade": "1+", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "1+", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "From Murphy Stream access Murphy Glacier on the true right. Climb the steepening glacier to\r\nthe summit or move on to the South East Ridge." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Stan Conway, Bernie McClelland, Jack Pattle, Arthur Dixon, Dave Parr, April 1950" } ], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/canterbury/armoury-range/warrior": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/canterbury/armoury-range/warrior", "name": "The Warrior", "altitude": "2580m", "access": null, "description": null, "latlng": [ "-43.34531026", "170.84370537" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/canterbury/armoury-range/warrior/north-ridge", "name": "North Ridge", "grade": "2+", "topo_ref": "NR", "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "2+", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "From Toledo Col, skirt under Nym Peak then head up to the ridge, which offers a steep climb\r\non good red rock that was mostly belayed on the first ascent. The lower part of the ridge is broad\r\nenough to offer a selection of routes. Higher up, a short section of snow leads to the summit." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "John Nankervis, Hugh Fyson, Clayton Jeffery, Charlie Ledbrook, August 1967" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/canterbury/armoury-range/warrior/north-west-couloir", "name": "North West Couloir", "grade": "2-", "topo_ref": "NW", "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "2-", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "Reach the Hector Glacier either via McCoy Stream and Toledo Col (easier) or via Billy McCoy\r\nStream (much more difficult). From the head of the glacier two prominent gullies cut the north\r\nface. Take the gully on the right, ascending snow but climbing through a small rocky notch if\r\nsnow cover is low, then follow loose rock to the summit ridge. Follow the broad, loose upper\r\nWest Ridge over the low peak to the summit, turning a small block on the east side." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Dick Conway, Russell Pearce, February 1966 (possibly first descended by Ed Cotter and Robin" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/canterbury/armoury-range/warrior/west-ridge", "name": "West Ridge", "grade": "3-", "topo_ref": "WR", "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "3-", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "The original route followed Billy McCoy Stream to the Hector Glacier and reached the West\r\nRidge above the Hector icefall. The upper Hector Glacier is now typically cut off at the icefall\r\nand access to the ridge is best by way of the upper McCoy Stream and Toledo Col. Once at the\r\nridge, traverse two triangular faces before continuing up the ridge on good rock. The ridge narrows\r\nand is exposed in places. The rock on the northern side of the ridge is good and the ridge\r\nbroadens before the low peak." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "H W (Sandy) Cormack, Lloyd Wilson, January 1934" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/canterbury/armoury-range/warrior/south-west-face", "name": "South West Face", "grade": "2", "topo_ref": "SW", "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "2", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "From the bottom of the upper Hecuba Glacier, follow steep snow and ice slopes up and left,\r\nover a schrund, then climb above the icecliffs and follow a prominent rib leading almost directly\r\nto the summit." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "John Entwisle, Murray Cullen, December 1978" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/canterbury/armoury-range/warrior/south-ridge", "name": "South Ridge", "grade": "1+", "topo_ref": "SR", "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "1+", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "The South Ridge is gained from the vicinity of Battleaxe Col or as part of a traverse from\r\nAmazon Peak. If approaching via Billy McCoy Stream and the Hecuba Glacier, access may\r\nbe difficult or impossible. From the head of the Hecuba Glacier, take a couloir that gains the\r\nSouth Ridge on the Amazon side of Battleaxe Col. The ridge involves some good red rock but\r\nalso badly broken greywacke and argillite, including a section of difficult rock over the buttress\r\nthat trends down to the Kirk Glacier. From here, move on to snow on the Kirk side to avoid\r\ngendarmes, before regaining the ridge to the summit." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "H W (Sandy) Cormack, Lloyd Wilson (descended), January 1934" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/canterbury/armoury-range/warrior/ive-got-soul-im-not-soldier", "name": "I've Got Soul But I'm Not A Soldier", "grade": "16,3,IV,3+,WI2,M3", "topo_ref": null, "image": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/route/SE%20Spur%20of%20the%20Warrior.jpg?itok=MuZBkulJ", "images": [ { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/route/SE%20Spur%20of%20the%20Warrior.jpg?itok=MuZBkulJ", "height": "244", "width": "325" } ], "length": "600m", "pitches": [ { "alpine": "3", "commitment": "IV", "mtcook": "3+", "aid": null, "ice": "WI2", "mixed": "M3", "length": "600m", "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": "16", "description": "7 pitches, with some simul-climbing." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": "Cross the schrund at the base of the spur then climb up an open book corner\nwith solid rock pro. Follow this corner of stable red greywacky for three\npitches. Climbing on the spur is straightforward.. The rock quality\ndecreases with height, ending in a classic, weetbix scramble up onto the\nsummit ridge.", "ascent": "Ben Ellis, Jack Grinsted, Tom Botterill" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/canterbury/armoury-range/warrior/central-couloir", "name": "Central Couloir", "grade": "2-", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "2-", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "From the upper reaches of the Kirk Glacier follow a broad snow slope into a narrow couloir\r\nslightly west of the summit, which leads directly to the top." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": null }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/canterbury/armoury-range/warrior/east-ridge", "name": "East Ridge", "grade": null, "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "From the head of the Kirk Glacier climb steep ice leading north on the right (may be cut off\r\nlate season) for about 400 vertical metres. Then follow a steep couloir to a prominent shoulder\r\non the East Ridge. Continue up the rocky East Ridge to join the summit ridge a short distance\r\nsouth of the summit." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "H W (Sandy) Cormack, Lloyd Wilson, Sidney (Archie) Wiren, E C A Ferrier, December 1932" } ], "places": [], "image": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/wide/public/image/The%20Warrior.png?itok=KGiV4vTA", "images": [ { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/wide/public/image/The%20Warrior.png?itok=KGiV4vTA", "height": "570", "width": "900" }, { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/image/1-File0014.jpg?itok=GwKUwRqH", "height": "220", "width": "325" } ] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki/liebig-range/monastery-pk": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki/liebig-range/monastery-pk", "name": "Monastery Pk", "altitude": "2580m", "access": null, "description": null, "latlng": [ "-43.680149", "170.254344" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki/liebig-range/monastery-pk/unnamed", "name": "Unnamed", "grade": null, "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "From the Murchison riverbed head up grass and scree slopes to a basin north east of the peak, then onto the summit." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Peter Graham, A Humphries, R B Seager, Mar 1918" } ], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/%C5%8Dhau-landsborough/main-divide/black-tower-pk": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/%C5%8Dhau-landsborough/main-divide/black-tower-pk", "name": "Black Tower Pk", "altitude": "2573m", "access": null, "description": null, "latlng": null, "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/%C5%8Dhau-landsborough/main-divide/black-tower-pk/east-ridge", "name": "East Ridge", "grade": "3", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "3", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": null } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": "From the base of route 3.29 ascend the couloir up the north slopes to reach\nHope Col. Follow the east ridge until a difficult section is reached.\nClimbing parties have turned this problem on both the Hopkins and Le Blanc\nsides. A classic chimney follows soon afterwards, and beyond the climb is a\nscramble to the summit.", "ascent": "Jim Glasgow, Harry Scott, JackWoodward, Bruce Young, January 1956" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/%C5%8Dhau-landsborough/main-divide/black-tower-pk/south-face", "name": "South Face", "grade": "3+", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "3+", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": null } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": "A winter climb on Black Tower was achieved after helicoptering in to the\nshelf on the south face at 2000m. Two hours of unroped climbing to the col\nwere followed by some careful leading on ice and loose rock up the west ridge\nto the summit. Eleven abseils were required on the descent to the hanging\nglacier.", "ascent": "Bill Atkinson, Rob Hall, June 1985" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/%C5%8Dhau-landsborough/main-divide/black-tower-pk/west-ridge", "name": "West Ridge", "grade": "3+", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "3+", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": null } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": "The first ascent of Black Tower involved an 8 1/2 hour traverse from Mt\nMcKerrow along the 'tottery' ridge. At the col between the ridge and Black\nTower, descend on loose rock to the snowfield, cross the col then climb\ngingerly up loosely stacked slates on the south ridge. On the summit is an\nimpressive cairn built by the first ascent party. At least one party has used\nthe cairn as a belay anchor.", "ascent": "Wally Romanes, BrianWilliams, with Peter Beveridge and John Harrison in support at the col, December 1955" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/%C5%8Dhau-landsborough/main-divide/black-tower-pk/le-blanc-face", "name": "Le Blanc Face", "grade": "4+", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "4+", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": null } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": "From the lower Le Blanc glacier ascend steep rock and icecliffs to reach the\nnorthern snowslopes. Once on the relative safety of the snowfield traverse\nacross to gain the west ridge to the summit. A difficult and dangerous climb\nwhich required a bivouac before the summit was reached. Exit from the climb\nwas over Mt Hopkins, with a further bivouac on the summit of that peak. First\nattempted by TomBarcham, AlecWitten-Hannah and Ash Cunningham in December\n1952.", "ascent": "Mike Andrews, Kevin Conaglen, Andy Harris, Stuart Skene, January 1982" } ], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aspiring/forbes-mountains/oleary-pk": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aspiring/forbes-mountains/oleary-pk", "name": "O\u2019Leary Pk", "altitude": "2570m", "access": null, "description": "Leary Peak can be climbed from any direction including from the Bedford, Wright Col, Kea Basin or the South Hunter.", "latlng": [ "-44.61237632", "168.41067636" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aspiring/forbes-mountains/leary-pk/birley-glacier", "name": "From Birley Glacier", "grade": "1,I", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": "1", "commitment": "I", "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": null } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Harry Birley, c.1890" } ], "places": [], "image": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/wide/public/image/Earnslaw_Massif_opt_4.jpeg?itok=tMtgzAa4", "images": [ { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/wide/public/image/Earnslaw_Massif_opt_4.jpeg?itok=tMtgzAa4", "height": "431", "width": "682" } ] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki/fox-range/big-mac": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki/fox-range/big-mac", "name": "Big Mac", "altitude": "2565m", "access": null, "description": "tba", "latlng": [ "-43.54675049", "170.1294473" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki/fox-range/big-mac/south-ridge", "name": "South Ridge", "grade": "2", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "2", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "From the col between Big Mac and Le Receveur." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Frank Alack, H K Douglas, W E Wilson, Dec 1934." }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki/fox-range/big-mac/mistaken-identity", "name": "Mistaken Identity", "grade": "2+", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "2+", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "Climb the buttress overlooking the Fox N\u00e9v\u00e9. An abseil may be required to get off." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Dave McLeod, Tim Morrison, Rob Hughes, Mar 1983." }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki/fox-range/big-mac/castries-glacier", "name": "From the Castries Glacier", "grade": "2-", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "2-", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "Gain the Castries Glacier to the west of the peak, then to the summit." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Frank Alack, G C Arras, D Mackie, Feb 1932." } ], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/canterbury/arrowsmith-range/the-twins": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/canterbury/arrowsmith-range/the-twins", "name": "The Twins", "altitude": "2564m", "access": null, "description": "na", "latlng": [ "-43.340786", "170.997648" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/canterbury/arrowsmith-range/the-twins/couloir-route", "name": "Couloir Route", "grade": "3-", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "3-", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "Climb the moraine wall and follow scree and snow to the high Twins\u2013Couloir basin. From\r\nthis basin climb the couloir that meets the summit ridge just north of The Twins summit. One\r\nshort, steep pitch is encountered in the upper reaches." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Barry Smith, David Elphick, Jim Wilson, Mike White (descended), December 1955" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/canterbury/arrowsmith-range/the-twins/west-ridge", "name": "West Ridge", "grade": "2-", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "2-", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "The ridge can be gained from The Twins\u2013Couloir basin (see above) and involves a scramble\r\nto the top." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": null }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/canterbury/arrowsmith-range/the-twins/lawrence-valley", "name": "From Lawrence Valley", "grade": null, "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "No details known." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "John Cousins, Bruce Harrison, April 1963" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/canterbury/arrowsmith-range/the-twins/south-west-ridge-south-twin", "name": "South West Ridge (South Twin)", "grade": null, "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Jack Hill, D Kett, August 1961" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/canterbury/arrowsmith-range/the-twins/south-ridge", "name": "South Ridge", "grade": "3", "topo_ref": "SR", "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "3", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "From the Cameron Glacier, aim for snow slopes leading to the South Ridge. Travel up the ridge\r\nis initially straightforward, passing several pinnacles. Climb two rock steps (approximately 10\r\nand 15 metres high) : the first takes a corner followed by a small rotten wall, and the second follows\r\na small gully. From here reasonable rock leads to the summit." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Jack Hill, Jack Pettigrew, 1965" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/canterbury/arrowsmith-range/the-twins/east-face", "name": "East Face", "grade": "3", "topo_ref": "EF", "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "3", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "From the Cameron Glacier climb a narrow snow lead directly below The Twins. Climb through\r\na rock band to join the final section of the South Ridge or take the direct finish by climbing\r\nloose rock to join the summit ridge between the two peaks." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Willy Huber, Tom Newth, April 1955" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/canterbury/arrowsmith-range/the-twins/right-hand-route", "name": "Right-hand Route", "grade": null, "topo_ref": "RH", "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "Take the gully from the Cameron Glacier that meets the Twins\u2013Tower ridge just north of the\r\nnorth Twin. Cross a schrund at the head of the slope and continue on snow and rock to the col\r\nand summit ridge. There is one steep ice pitch near the top." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "John Entwisle, Andy Campbell, November 1974" } ], "places": [], "image": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/wide/public/image/Twins.png?itok=pkKdatya", "images": [ { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/wide/public/image/Twins.png?itok=pkKdatya", "height": "403", "width": "900" } ] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki/liebig-range/mt-acland": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki/liebig-range/mt-acland", "name": "Mt Acland", "altitude": "2562m", "access": null, "description": "tba", "latlng": [ "-43.51806496", "170.44408472" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki/liebig-range/mt-acland/unnamed", "name": "Unnamed", "grade": null, "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "From the head of the Aida Glacier climb to the col between the peak and Sydney King, then ascend rocks to the top; or from the Aida N\u00e9v\u00e9 head directly up snow slopes to gain the ridge south of the summit. Alternatively, traverse from Richmond." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Otto Frind, Conrad Kain, Mar 1914 (from the Aida Glacier)" } ], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/c58dhau-landsborough/hooker-range/mt-strachan-puna-ariki": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/c58dhau-landsborough/hooker-range/mt-strachan-puna-ariki", "name": "Mt Strachan Puna-ariki", "altitude": "2561m", "access": null, "description": "Then came a perfect day. We left at 4 a.m. for Strachan, the mecca of the expedition, going up via the Mueller Pass; then south west up the grass and shingle slopes, and thence up the Strachan Glacier. Taking in a snow peak to the south and cutting back over our steps, we finally stood on the summit of Mt Strachan (8559 feet) at 9.15 a.m. It was the one perfect day we had, and it was the finest unclimbed peak of this region, and both were matched by a peerless view. Tier upon tier the serrated ridges rose up one above the other until they culminated in the crowned head of Mount Cook. To the west the blue ocean broke in white breakers on the shore: to the south lay a lovely blue lake; while at our feet the long Landsborough Valley meandered down toward the Haast.\nMarie Byles, New Zealand Alpine Journal, 1935.", "latlng": [ "-43.77721633", "169.79174599" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/westland/hooker-range/mt-strachan/north-east-ridge", "name": "North East Ridge", "grade": "2,II", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": "0m", "pitches": [ { "alpine": "2", "commitment": "II", "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": null } ], "quality": 1, "bolts": "0", "natural_pro": false, "description": "From Mueller Pass gain height up the ridge until a sidle can be made onto the heavily crevassed Strachan Glacier, which is negotiated to the summit.", "ascent": "Marie Byles, Marjorie Edgar-Jones, Harry Ayres, Frank Alack, January 1935" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/westland/hooker-range/mt-strachan/north-west-face", "name": "North West Face", "grade": "2,III", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": "0m", "pitches": [ { "alpine": "2", "commitment": "III", "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": null } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": "0", "natural_pro": false, "description": "From the upper Edison valley, traverse around Pt 1997m onto the northern slopes of Mt Strachan, then climb over glacier-smoothed rock, north facing snow slopes and a couloir to reach the summit ridge.", "ascent": "Dick Tornquist, Vic McGregor, Alex Parton, John Luxton, Tim Barfoot, George Hunter, January 1961" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/westland/hooker-range/mt-strachan/south-ridge", "name": "South Ridge", "grade": "2,III", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": "0m", "pitches": [ { "alpine": "2", "commitment": "III", "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": null } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": "0", "natural_pro": false, "description": "From the Landsborough, climb the spur on the true right of Zora Creek through bush and negotiate cliffs to a tarn-studded shelf at 920m. From here, climb to Pt 1953m and\nthe Strachan Glacier. Climb the glacier to the south ridge, which is straightforward to the summit.", "ascent": "Jim McFarlane, Bill Beaven, Norman Hardie, February 1947" } ], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/main-divide-of-the-southern-alps/mt-livingstone": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/main-divide-of-the-southern-alps/mt-livingstone", "name": "Mt Livingstone", "altitude": "2561m", "access": null, "description": "First climbed up the South Ridge from the east by A J Scott, Russell Fraser, Alf Brustad, January 1933.\nThe North Peak of Mt Livingstone (Pt 2476 metres) is unclimbed, and the ridge between here and\nCassino is untraversed.", "latlng": [ "-43.45968", "170.460073" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/main-divide-of-the-southern-alps/mt-livingstone/original-route", "name": "Original Route", "grade": null, "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "From the col east of Moffat climb snow and ice slopes." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "A J Scott, Russell Fraser, Alf Brustad, Jan 1933" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/main-divide-of-the-southern-alps/mt-livingstone/south-ridge-west", "name": "South Ridge from the West", "grade": "2", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "2", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "From the Gino Watkins Glacier, ascend a snow gully between Mt Moffat and Mt Livingstone.\r\nThe snow climb up the ridge is not difficult, but access to the mountain pushes the grade up." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "John Nankervis, Phil Castle, Grant Stotter, Pat Thorn, Dec 1978" } ], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki/main-divide/mt-bannie": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki/main-divide/mt-bannie", "name": "Mt Bannie", "altitude": "2560m", "access": null, "description": null, "latlng": [ "-43.74151277", "170.0074077" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki/main-divide/mt-bannie/bannie-glacier", "name": "Via Bannie Glacier", "grade": "2", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "2", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "Via the Bannier Glacier to either (1) the West Ridge and the summit or (2) the South Ridge and summit." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Otto Frind, Conrad Kain, March 1914;" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki/main-divide/mt-bannie/east-face", "name": "East Face", "grade": null, "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "Start south of the face, traverse up the full length of a snow ramp, then head up mixed snow and rock past a prominent large block." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Peter Dickson, September 1993" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki/main-divide/mt-bannie/christopher-col", "name": "From Christopher Col", "grade": "2", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "2", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": null } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": "Traverse the divide ridge to reach the peak.", "ascent": "Archie Scott, Graham Riley, Christopher Johnson, December 1935" } ], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki/godley-river/mt-wolseley": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki/godley-river/mt-wolseley", "name": "Mt Wolseley", "altitude": "2558m", "access": null, "description": "Between Maud Glacier & Neish Plateau.", "latlng": [ "-43.42979824", "170.52334785" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki/godley-river/mt-wolseley/south-ridge", "name": "South Ridge", "grade": null, "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "From the Maud Glacier gain the ridge just short of the summit." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "B R Young, I R Wood, H Elder, J Porter, Jan 1951 (full ridge)" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki/godley-river/mt-wolseley/east-ridge", "name": "East Ridge", "grade": null, "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "Follow the long rocky east ridge from the junction of the Godley and Ruth glaciers, or from nearer to the Neish Glacier. A long and interesting route with good rock on the section between the Neish and Ruth Glaciers." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Richard Tornquist, Noel Strack, Jan 1953" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki/godley-river/mt-wolseley/neish-glacier", "name": "From Neish Glacier", "grade": null, "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "Climb to the col north of the peak from the Neish Glacier. Then head up a sound rock ridge to the summit." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Will Kennedy, Jack Lippe, Dec 1920" } ], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/c58dhau-landsborough/ben-ohau-range/mauka-atua": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/c58dhau-landsborough/ben-ohau-range/mauka-atua", "name": "Mauka Atua", "altitude": "2557m", "access": null, "description": "The highest point of the Ben Ohau Range was believed (incorrectly), to be still unclimbed as recently as 1968, when it was climbed from Whale Stream via a lengthy scramble across the ridge tops and western slopes. While a first ascent of Pt 2466m was made along the way, the first ascent of Mauka Atua seems likely to have been made by Norman Hardie in 1948. \u201cI now see that I should have recorded in 1948\u201349 all that I did as an engineer at P\u016bkaki. At various stages I had working for me W McFarlane, A Cookson, E Hillary, and others who were not really climbers. With MOW vehicles and able to watch the weather, I traversed most of the Ben Ohau Range from Dun Fiunary to Dark Peak in 1948.\u201d \u2013 Norman Hardie, 1992", "latlng": [ "-43.87896521", "170.02411366" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/%C5%8Dhau-landsborough/ben-ohau-range/mauka-atua/south-ridge", "name": "South Ridge", "grade": "2,II", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": "2", "commitment": "II", "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": null } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": "From either Twin Stream or Back Bush Stream, follow the south ridge of Kai Tarau and either traverse the summit or, if there is good snow cover, sidle below through bluffs at about 2360m altitude to the col south of Mauka Atua. Finish with an easy scramble to the top.", "ascent": "Norman Hardie, 1948" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/%C5%8Dhau-landsborough/ben-ohau-range/mauka-atua/east-face", "name": "East Face", "grade": "2,II", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": "2", "commitment": "II", "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": null } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": "Follow Back Bush Stream until at 1450m altitude. The east face appears broken and loose but excellent progress can be made up a streambed at BY15 615 386 to gain the north ridge. From here, the summit of Mauka Atua is gained by a 1km long ribbon of narrow ridge.", "ascent": "Ross Cullen, March 1989" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/%C5%8Dhau-landsborough/ben-ohau-range/mauka-atua/north-ridge", "name": "North Ridge", "grade": "2,II", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": "2", "commitment": "II", "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": null } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": "Ascend the bush-clad spur north of the obvious stream opposite Kennedy Hut, then through snow tussock basins to join the Ben Ohau range crest just north of Pt 2515m. Then head south along a narrow and airy ridge to the summit.", "ascent": "Hugh Nicholson, January 1996" } ], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki/banks-range/mt-unicorn": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki/banks-range/mt-unicorn", "name": "Mt Unicorn", "altitude": "2557m", "access": null, "description": "All routes are currently on the Strauchon Face.\nThe routes on Unicorn are harder and more exposed than those on Dilemma.\nGetting off Dilemma:\nThe easiest way off Dilemma avoids the East Peak and rotten rock. From the West Peak scramble down the eastern edge of the Strauchon Face for 150m, then drop down a diagonal ledge system to snow 100 metres below. If the ledges are snowed up, abseil from the first notch between West and East Peaks, anchors in-situ (grade 2). Traverse across and up to a rock gendarme on the Main Divide, 100m north of Beatrice. Follow a snow ridge on the western side, passing under rock on the divide. At a rock rib that cuts westward, climb back to the divide, crossing it, and descend on the Hooker Valley side, traversing below the divide. This cross-over point is crucial. Continue along the crest over broken rock to Baker Saddle. It is also theoretically possible to rappel the Direttissima Route of Mt Dilemma. This is not recommended as it would take all day and the bolts could be difficult to find, especially at night.\nOther options: If descending from Beatrice, drop onto eastern snow slopes (go south first if necessary) and continue along snow to Baker Saddle.", "latlng": [ "-43.62563814", "170.0848459" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki/banks-range/mt-unicorn/classical-gas", "name": "Classical Gas", "grade": "18,VI,6", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": "1400m", "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": "VI", "mtcook": "6", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": "1400m", "bolts": null, "trad": true, "ewbank": "18", "description": "Ascend the left face of Unicorn following a distinct diagonal crack system which passes just left of the arching overhang. Start in the middle of the face, left of corners, up face to snow ledge. From ledge begin left of main diagonal crack, move up and gain it as soon as practical. Follow line to summit ridge, traversing to the right at the top of face to the summit. Very sustained rock climbing." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": true, "description": null, "ascent": "Bill McLeod, Peter Dickson, Dec 1992." }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki/banks-range/mt-unicorn/original-route", "name": "Original Route", "grade": "16,5", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "5", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": "16", "description": "As for the Direct Route of Mt Dilemma, until the shingle rib is gained. From here move right into\r\nthe major couloir and up for roughly 200m (beware of rockfall), then head left up the rock, towards an enormous corner where the left (main) face begins. Climb the left hand edge of the face immediately right of the corner to gain a large flattish snowfield, 300m below the top. There are good bivvy sites here. Climb the face above via crack systems that tend left to reach the ridge 60m below the summit (crux 16). Other variations are possible at the top." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Alan & Geoff Gledhill, Jan 1973." }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki/banks-range/mt-unicorn/bestial-passion", "name": "Bestial Passion", "grade": "15,5+", "topo_ref": null, "image": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/route/Unicorn%20Dilemma%20winter11.jpg?itok=iTK1XXC5", "images": [ { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/route/Unicorn%20Dilemma%20winter11.jpg?itok=iTK1XXC5", "height": "244", "width": "325" } ], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "5+", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": "15", "description": "From the major couloir beneath the face climb up to the snowfield at the base of the great corner. Climb a hand crack 10-15 metres left of the big corner. After sustained climbing (crux 15) the crack runs out. Traverse right through the big corner at an obvious weakness to gain the flattish snowfield, and then to the top of the face via the Gledhill route." } ], "quality": 1, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Peter Dickson, Mar 1990." }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki/banks-range/mt-unicorn/west-ridge", "name": "West Ridge", "grade": null, "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "Similar to the top of the Strauchon Face" } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Descended by Alan & Geoff Gledhill, Jan 1973." }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki/banks-range/mt-unicorn/rainbow", "name": "Rainbow", "grade": "17", "topo_ref": null, "image": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/routes/_DSC3607%20-%20Copy.JPG?itok=gYMLYQ8R", "images": [ { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/routes/_DSC3607%20-%20Copy.JPG?itok=gYMLYQ8R", "height": "325", "width": "217" }, { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/routes/_DSC3604.JPG?itok=idkhNjdk", "height": "217", "width": "325" } ], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": true, "ewbank": "17", "description": "8 pitches." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": true, "description": "Very nice rockclimbing above the snowpatch - Pity you have to get there, and get off somehow. Accessed via Banks range traverse (relatively serious in it's own right). To gain the snowpatch, it might be better to follow the large crack system up after p1, rather than trend left (with a rap), as the rock below the snowpatch is loose and prone to rockfall.\nThe great corner is a deathtrap since the top fell off. If descending by rapping into it and climbing out to the East Peak, expect every manner of loose blocks & dirt, to a steady accompaniment of spontaneous rockfall. The ridge doesn't look flash either but it's hard to imagine it being worse...", "ascent": "? Troy Forsyth, Ruari Macfarlane, Jan 2023" } ], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki/sealy-range/mt-sealy-low-pk": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki/sealy-range/mt-sealy-low-pk", "name": "Mt Sealy Low Pk", "altitude": "2557m", "access": null, "description": null, "latlng": [ "-43.765763", "170.050678" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki/sealy-range/mt-sealy-low-pk/south-east-ridge", "name": "South East Ridge", "grade": "2+,III", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": "2+", "commitment": "III", "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": null } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": "The long ridge connecting Mt Edgar Thomson with Mt Sealy provides exposed steep scrambling, but is very loose in places. Some parties \u2013 including previous editors of this guide \u2013 have loved it; others not so much! This route has also been known as the Hoophorn Ridge \u2013 just don't confuse it with Hoophorn Spur. Descend to the Metelille Glacier.", "ascent": "Hugh Logan, Dave Pluth, December 1973" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki/sealy-range/mt-sealy-low-pk/metelille-glacier", "name": "From Metelille Glacier", "grade": "2,I", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": "0m", "pitches": [ { "alpine": "2", "commitment": "I", "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": null } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": "0", "natural_pro": false, "description": "From the head of the glacier this is a straightforward snow climb which provides a terrific view from the summit.", "ascent": null }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki/sealy-range/mt-sealy-low-pk/north-ridge", "name": "North Ridge", "grade": "2+,I", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": "0m", "pitches": [ { "alpine": "2+", "commitment": "I", "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": null } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": "0", "natural_pro": false, "description": "From the 2428m col at the head of the Metelille Glacier (incorrectly labelled Barrow Col), follow a series of steep rotten steps to the summit.", "ascent": "C L Barrow, Jack Clarke, Edward FitzGerald, Mattias Zurbriggen (possibly), January 1895" } ], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/canterbury/gamack-range/mt-william-grant": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/canterbury/gamack-range/mt-william-grant", "name": "Mt William Grant", "altitude": "2556m", "access": "Access up the Jollie, or phone Glenmore Station (03 680 6752) to enquire about permission to access up the Cass. If the Cass River is at normal flow, access can be sped up by 4wd or bike to Tin Hut.", "description": "Cass & Jollie Rivers", "latlng": [ "-43.70436009", "170.3207455" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/mt-william-grant/east-ridge", "name": "East Ridge", "grade": "13,3", "topo_ref": null, "image": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/route/William%20Grant.jpg?itok=I7smH2cu", "images": [ { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/route/William%20Grant.jpg?itok=I7smH2cu", "height": "325", "width": "244" } ], "length": "600m", "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "3", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": "600m", "bolts": null, "trad": true, "ewbank": "13", "description": null } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": true, "description": "Start left of large black choss band. Two pitches of good climbing on solid\nrock (crux) to shelf. Easy climbing to where ridge steepens, heading right\nonto face on good rock. Mixed scrambling and pitching to summit. Descent via\nsaddle between western summit and point 2394.", "ascent": "Mark Flintoft, Lee Burberry, Jan 2015" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/canterbury/gamack-range/mt-william-grant/north-face", "name": "North Face", "grade": "13", "topo_ref": null, "image": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/routes/_DSC4836_0.JPG?itok=zYxWnj81", "images": [ { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/routes/_DSC4836_0.JPG?itok=zYxWnj81", "height": "217", "width": "325" }, { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/routes/_DSC4840.JPG?itok=BATjHVLo", "height": "217", "width": "325" }, { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/routes/_DSC4874.JPG?itok=WYEbzJ79", "height": "217", "width": "325" } ], "length": "380m", "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": "380m", "bolts": null, "trad": true, "ewbank": "13", "description": "scramble up the gully/corner on the right side of the main NF to where it first eases; belay on left (small cams). Pitch1 goes 57 m: hard left and through a break in the roofs, up a clean slab, and finishing up a corner on the left to belay just below the obvious diagonal ledge cutting the lower face. Scramble this ledge left to the next belay below \"Williams' nipple\", a cabin-sized block. Pitch up the right side of this and keep going; five 50m pitches up and right (following the best rock) to shortly below the summit. A scree ledge divides the fifth and sixth pitchs. A single rack to #2 or 3, and doubles of a few smaller cams, should suffice. Climbing is sometimes runout, but in these sections is easy. The rock is good enough, but generally forgettable. The climbing is mainly grade 8-10, often on solid red sandstone slabs, but with chossy overlaps (grade 13-14 cruxes) increasing in frequency with height, and dominating the face towards the top." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": true, "description": "Approach by walking up Jollie valley, or via the Cass (it is essential to phone Glenmore station first to ask permission, on 03 680 6752) and Tin Hut Stream. The Cass option is preferable, as one can 4WD / mountainbike to Tin Hut if river level are normal. There is water in the basin, somewhat downhill of the face (the basin contains a remnant rock glacier). The face is both easier and better than it looks, and makes a moderate but forgettable route on blocky red sandstone. What are unforgettable, however, are the views. The outlook to the Eastern aspects of Aoraki, Tasman and the Malte Brun Range are superlative. Descend via the gully systems immediately W of the summit. Gain these by: i) possibly taking a ledge down and right across a very steep face, from the top of the pitching but shortly below the summit (scramble back down to here); or (ii) descend slabs 10m to SE and small notch in East ridge, then traverse broken ground 10m across S face under the summit block to the notch in the West ridge at the top of the gully. Descend the gully NW, then halfway down cut out left on a ledge system, until a notch behind a big tower allows access into another NW facing gully, and finally the main gut draining back NE towards the main basin. This avoids abseiling.", "ascent": "Troy Forsyth, Ruari Macfarlane, 4 April 2023" } ], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/c58dhau-landsborough/ben-ohau-range/glentanner-pk": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/c58dhau-landsborough/ben-ohau-range/glentanner-pk", "name": "Glentanner Pk", "altitude": "2551m", "access": null, "description": null, "latlng": [ "-43.9098", "170.0226" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/%C5%8Dhau-landsborough/ben-ohau-range/glentanner-pk/south-east-ridge", "name": "South East Ridge", "grade": "15,3+,II", "topo_ref": null, "image": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/routes/20210208_143245.jpg?itok=RgOQ-_NB", "images": [ { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/routes/20210208_143245.jpg?itok=RgOQ-_NB", "height": "244", "width": "325" } ], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": "3+", "commitment": "II", "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": "15", "description": null } ], "quality": 1, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": "Traverse the ridge from Ferintosh Peak to Glentanner Peak. Several jutting fins provide rock climbing to grade 15 (through the notches) on great, blocky red greywacke; however it may be possible to traverse underneath most these and bypass on broken ledges on the south-west side. The ridge steepens towards the summit (more good rock).", "ascent": "Ruari Macfarlane, February 2021" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/%C5%8Dhau-landsborough/ben-ohau-range/glentanner-pk/north-face", "name": "North Face", "grade": "2,II", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": "2", "commitment": "II", "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": null } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": "From upper Twin Stream, ascend the hillside via the babbling brook to reach the alpine meadows underneath the north face of Glentanner Peak. Follow the usually snow-filled couloir through steepening ground to the summit ridge.", "ascent": "Ross Cullen, April 1992" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/%C5%8Dhau-landsborough/ben-ohau-range/glentanner-pk/dobson", "name": "From the Dobson", "grade": null, "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": "Possible routes would be to access the south face via Stewart Stream, or to strike out through the beech forest opposite Kennedy Hut, aiming either for the outlier 2409 or directly for the summit.\nPeak.", "ascent": "No recorded ascent" } ], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki/main-divide/eagle-pk": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki/main-divide/eagle-pk", "name": "Eagle Pk", "altitude": "2548m", "access": null, "description": null, "latlng": [ "-43.71764333", "170.0294067" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki/main-divide/eagle-pk/maunga-ma", "name": "Via Maunga Ma", "grade": "2+", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "2+", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "Climb via the Main Divide from Maunga Ma." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Conrad Kain, Hugh Wright, January 1915" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki/main-divide/eagle-pk/mueller-direct", "name": "Mueller Direct", "grade": "3", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "3", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "From the Mueller Glacier ascend via the Ngakanohi Glacier and then up mixed rock and snow directly to the summit." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Aat Vervoorn, January 1984;" } ], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki/main-divide/mt-stephen": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki/main-divide/mt-stephen", "name": "Mt Stephen", "altitude": "2546m", "access": null, "description": null, "latlng": [ "-43.69521618", "170.0282876" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki/main-divide/mt-stephen/brunner-col", "name": "Via Brunner Col", "grade": null, "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "Ascend to Brunner Col. Access to the Shelf Glacier below Sefton is possible, but has not been used." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": null } ], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/canterbury/two-thumb-range/the-thumbs": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/canterbury/two-thumb-range/the-thumbs", "name": "The Thumbs", "altitude": "2546m", "access": null, "description": "tba", "latlng": [ "-43.59294", "170.72736" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/canterbury/two-thumb-range/the-thumbs/low-thumb-north-buttress", "name": "Low Thumb, North Buttress", "grade": "1", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "1", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "From head basin of Black Birch Creek climb a series of bluffs to gain the summit ridge about\r\n200 metres horizontally from the top, then follow the ridge." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Peter Bain, Russell Pearce, Murray Harris, Richard Gluyas, February 1954" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/canterbury/two-thumb-range/the-thumbs/low-thumb-east-ridge", "name": "Low Thumb, East Ridge", "grade": "2-", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "2-", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "This is best approached from the north branch of Black Birch Creek but can also be reached via\r\nsteep couloirs from the south. From the col slightly north-east of the peak, pick a gully to access\r\nthe East Ridge and follow the ridge to the summit." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Rod Milne, Geoff Fowler, R J Allen, March 1937" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/canterbury/two-thumb-range/the-thumbs/low-thumb-south-ridge", "name": "Low Thumb, South Ridge", "grade": "2-", "topo_ref": "SR", "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "2-", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "The col between the high and low Thumbs is readily accessed from the west. From the col pick a route through steep, loose argillite to the summit, climbing a narrow, left-facing corner if conditions dictate." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Geoff Flower, Rod Milne, R J Allen, March 1937" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/canterbury/two-thumb-range/the-thumbs/high-thumb-north-face", "name": "High Thumb, North Face", "grade": "2", "topo_ref": "NF", "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "2", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "The col between the high and low Thumbs is readily reached from the west. From the col, cross a band of argillite then zigzag along ascending ledges. Finish by climbing either blocky rock or a scree gully on the right to the broad summit. The rock is reasonably firm." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Nel Caine, David Turnbull, Colin Burrows, April 1966" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/canterbury/two-thumb-range/the-thumbs/high-thumb-south-ridge", "name": "High Thumb, South Ridge", "grade": "2", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "2", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "Climb a narrow couloir north of Tom Thumb Col. The couloir merges with steep, loose rock and narrow gullies but joins the South Ridge near the summit, avoiding deep chasms and steep walls at the south end of the ridge. Climb the steepening ridge, taking occasional detours to the west side of the ar\u00eate and negotiating a short step just before the summit. Alternatively, the South Ridge is readily reached via scree from the western side of the col north of Pt 2315 metres." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Harold (Ned) Porter, Clive Barker, Hugh Chambers, February 1922" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/canterbury/two-thumb-range/the-thumbs/low-thumb-west-face", "name": "Low Thumb, West Face", "grade": "3-", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": "A short climb through steep, loose, and exposed rock. Ascend scree from the col to the north-west of the Low Thumb before climbing up the corner of the main face. Trend slightly left then up, testing the rock before committing. When the ridge is gained, cross the top of a gully to join the east and south routes immediately before the summit. A straightforward descent through loose rock awaits on the east side, to regain the north-west col if desired.\nThe grading of this route is intended to be in keeping with other routes in the immediate vicinity.", "ascent": "Lorraine Johns & Rae-Anne Kurucz, 21 February 2021" } ], "places": [], "image": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/wide/public/image/The%20Thumbs.png?itok=AqUSCrl8", "images": [ { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/wide/public/image/The%20Thumbs.png?itok=AqUSCrl8", "height": "591", "width": "900" } ] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki/liebig-range/jollie-pks": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki/liebig-range/jollie-pks", "name": "Jollie Pks", "altitude": "2544m", "access": null, "description": null, "latlng": [ "-43.65873", "170.302581" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki/liebig-range/jollie-pks/unnamed", "name": "Unnamed", "grade": null, "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "Easy scrambling from the Murchison to these ill-defined rock peaks." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "C Denham, Jack Pattle, Jan 1936" } ], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/westland/john-pascoe-ridge/newton-pk": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/westland/john-pascoe-ridge/newton-pk", "name": "Newton Pk", "altitude": "2543m", "access": null, "description": "Southern Alps Ka Tiritiri O Te Moana", "latlng": [ "-43.31672012", "170.71647184" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/westland/john-pascoe-ridge/newton-pk/garden-allah", "name": "From Garden of Allah", "grade": "1+", "topo_ref": "GA", "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "1+", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "Along John Pascoe Ridge from Mt Tyndall Grade 1+\r\nEasy snow slopes provide access along the Main Divide from the upper Garden of Allah, bypassing Snowy Peak. From the col between Tyndall and Newton a snow ridge with a schrund and short scramble at the end leads to the summit. The schrund can cause parties problems and at times cut access." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": null }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/westland/john-pascoe-ridge/newton-pk/tears-allah", "name": "The Tears of Allah", "grade": "21,3", "topo_ref": null, "image": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/route/041.JPG?itok=VFK-tezu", "images": [ { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/route/041.JPG?itok=VFK-tezu", "height": "325", "width": "244" } ], "length": "500m", "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "3", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": "500m", "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": "21", "description": "This stunning 500m rock route rising from the Garden of Allah has great rock and pro on the roped pitches, is safe and easily rapped. Strongly recommended by the first ascentionists. The climb entails access via an apron on the RH side to a large ledge before a full pitch of superb 18. Above this a half pitch on easy ground leads to scrambling to the superb headwall pitches (16 & 18). A short step down to another wall not visible from below accesses the crux pitch of 21 (watch the loose blocks at the crux). Above this, stunning easy pitches (15 & 15) lead to a final scramble to the summit. To descend rap to the base of the crux pitch and scramble toward the easy side and down across easier ground continuing to the top of the first pitch and rap back to the ledge and down climb back to the snow." } ], "quality": 2, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Jamie Vinton-Boot, Guy McKinnon April 2008" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/westland/john-pascoe-ridge/newton-pk/forbidden-apples", "name": "Forbidden Apples", "grade": "16,4+,IV", "topo_ref": null, "image": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/routes/FA_0.png?itok=3UZqBYSL", "images": [ { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/routes/FA_0.png?itok=3UZqBYSL", "height": "325", "width": "308" } ], "length": "400m", "pitches": [ { "alpine": "4+", "commitment": "IV", "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": "400m", "bolts": null, "trad": true, "ewbank": "16", "description": null } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": true, "description": "\"Every rock climb in the universe is attracted to every other rock climb with a force that is directly proportional to the product of their aesthetic mass and inversely proportional to the square of the distance between them\" - Isaac Newton.\nForbidden Apples starts up obvious corner between the double buttress, stepping left into groove below loose hanging corner, then follows the most direct weakness. The crux (16) consists of lesser-quality rock beneath the large overhang. Trend left to cross a snow slope which leads to easier but loose scrambling. Descended via GA route.", "ascent": "George Loomes, Olivia Truax, Sam Waetford, Michael Eatson - 25th December 2019." }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/westland/john-pascoe-ridge/newton-pk/south-face", "name": "South Face.", "grade": "2", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "2", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "A diagonal snow climb from the Garden of Eden up crevassed snowslopes that vary considerably and are often cut off later in the season. There are some big slots up here. Reach the ridge between Newton and Tyndall from which both peaks are accessible. \r\nThe first ascent went all the way up the Colin Campbell Glacier from the Frances Valley to the Garden of Eden, then climbed the snowy south face of Tyndall before traversing to Newton Pk." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "LK Wilson, HW Cormack, Dec 1933." } ], "places": [], "image": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/wide/public/image/P204_0.png?itok=YNbqqbK0", "images": [ { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/wide/public/image/P204_0.png?itok=YNbqqbK0", "height": "628", "width": "900" } ] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/c58dhau-landsborough/ben-ohau-range/kai-tarau": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/c58dhau-landsborough/ben-ohau-range/kai-tarau", "name": "Kai Tarau", "altitude": "2542m", "access": null, "description": null, "latlng": [ "-43.8825", "170.0269" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/%C5%8Dhau-landsborough/ben-ohau-range/kai-tarau/south-ridge", "name": "South Ridge", "grade": "2,II", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": "2", "commitment": "II", "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": null } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": "Follow Back Bush Stream up some steep ground to the permanent snowfield south-east of Kai Tarau. Alternatively, use the snow ramp at the head of Twin Stream to gain the snowfield. From here, ascend the south arete to the summit.", "ascent": "Ross Cullen, Bill McLeod, August 1994" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/%C5%8Dhau-landsborough/ben-ohau-range/kai-tarau/east-face", "name": "East Face", "grade": "2,II", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": "2", "commitment": "II", "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": null } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": "Gain the permanent snowfield south-east of Kai Tarau from either Back Bush Stream or Twin Stream (as for the sough ridge route) and from here climb the east face to the summit. This route is best climbed with good snow cover.", "ascent": "First ascent unknown" } ], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki/mt-cook-range/mt-pibrac": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki/mt-cook-range/mt-pibrac", "name": "Mt Pibrac", "altitude": "2541m", "access": null, "description": "Mt Cook Range", "latlng": [ "-43.632", "170.145972" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki/mt-cook-range/mt-pibrac/hooker-glacier", "name": "From Hooker Glacier", "grade": "3-", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "3-", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "From Hooker Glacier ascend via the Mona Glacier onto either the West Ridge, North Face, or North Ridge (Divide). The rock on Pibrac is good at the bottom but deteriorates markedly towards the top." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "West Ridge: Freda Du Faur, Peter Graham, Dec 1912." }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki/mt-cook-range/mt-pibrac/ball-pass", "name": "Via Ball Pass", "grade": null, "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "North from Ball Pass over Turner Peak. The easiest routes are via Ball Pass either along the ridge or traversing around the Ball Glacier. This area was the scene of many ascents when guides were based at Ball Hut." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": null }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki/mt-cook-range/mt-pibrac/jm-goes-tramping-south-face", "name": "JM Goes Tramping (South Face)", "grade": "4,WI2", "topo_ref": null, "image": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/route/048%20048%20045%2025.jpg?itok=32MUk8gq", "images": [ { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/route/048%20048%20045%2025.jpg?itok=32MUk8gq", "height": "244", "width": "325" } ], "length": "350m", "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "4", "aid": null, "ice": "WI2", "mixed": null, "length": "350m", "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "Up obvious snow gully leading left of summit. Then along straightforwardish ridge a few minutes to the summit.\r\n\r\nEasy access via Turner Peak or Proud Pass. Descent is less straightforward: either go down to Mona Glacier (Nazomi side, this is easy but presumably wont take you back to your tent) and then to Hooker Gl or on Tasman side (solar aspect, softens up quickly). \r\n\r\nThe original ascentionist soloed down a somewhat easier line on the S Face but this was uncomfortably steep lower down and a rope would be recommended.\r\n\r\n The direct line to the summit would be somewhat harder but in good conditions would be a classic. \r\n\r\nRoute named after the climber absconded from an Otago University Tramping Club trip over Ball Pass to link up solo ascents of Turner and Pibrac." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Jaz Morris (solo) November 2013" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki/mt-cook-range/mt-pibrac/shaft-west-face", "name": "The Shaft (West Face)", "grade": "5,WI3", "topo_ref": null, "image": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/route/Pibrac-shafrt.jpg?itok=draz5n2p", "images": [ { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/route/Pibrac-shafrt.jpg?itok=draz5n2p", "height": "316", "width": "325" } ], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "5", "aid": null, "ice": "WI3", "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "(WI3+)" } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Dan Joll and Steve Fortune October 2013" } ], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/canterbury/two-thumb-range/achilles": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/canterbury/two-thumb-range/achilles", "name": "Achilles", "altitude": "2540m", "access": null, "description": "Achilles has high (2540m) and low (2450m) peaks. There is no recorded ascent directly from the Black Birch Creek (Havelock River) side. Both peaks can be climbed easily enough from the col between them.", "latlng": [ "-43.56685549", "170.7267302" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/canterbury/two-thumb-range/achilles/west", "name": "From the west", "grade": "1", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "1", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "From Trojan Stream walk up blocky scree to the summits." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Bob Clark-Hall, J L (Pat) Clark-Hall, Tom Beckett, December 1941" } ], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/canterbury/jollie-range/the-steeple": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/canterbury/jollie-range/the-steeple", "name": "The Steeple", "altitude": "2539m", "access": null, "description": "na", "latlng": [ "-43.303882", "171.001854" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/canterbury/jollie-range/the-steeple/steeple-traverse", "name": "Steeple Traverse", "grade": "3+", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "3+", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "The Steeple is the prominent spike to the west of The Spires. It has been climbed by a traverse\r\nover the western Spires from Gusty Col, continuing over Pt 2507 metres to escape down a steep\r\ncouloir onto the Reischek Glacier. The climb is prolonged over steep and very loose rock, with\r\nsome extended unprotected leads." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Jim Wilson, Barry Smith, December 1955" } ], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/%C5%8Dhau-landsborough/main-divide/mt-williams": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/%C5%8Dhau-landsborough/main-divide/mt-williams", "name": "Mt Williams", "altitude": "2538m", "access": null, "description": null, "latlng": [ "-43.8378", "169.8875" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/%C5%8Dhau-landsborough/main-divide/mt-williams/north-ridge", "name": "North Ridge", "grade": "2", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "2", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": null } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": "Ascend the slopes above the Hopkins River to reach the Williams - Percy Smith\nCol. One short steep pitch followed by a sidle on the Landsborough side,\nprovides access to the rocky ridge leading to the summit.", "ascent": "Bruce Popplewell, Bill Stephenson December 1966" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/%C5%8Dhau-landsborough/main-divide/mt-williams/east-face", "name": "East Face", "grade": "2", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "2", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": null } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": "Mt Williams is frequently climbed from the valley floor, beginning from near\nErceg Hut. Cross the river and gain height on the face to join the south\nridge near the summit.", "ascent": "First ascent unknown" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/%C5%8Dhau-landsborough/main-divide/mt-williams/south-ridge", "name": "South Ridge", "grade": "2", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "2", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": null } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": "A lengthy climb from the Hopkins Valley and a high camp is likely to be\nnecessary if the ridge is followed all the way. Gain height along the sharp\nand broken ridge until travel on the slopes above the Thomson Stream provides\nquicker travel. Ascend a couloir south east of the peak and grapple with some\ndifficult rock to reach the top. The route is easiest to climb with solid\nsnow cover.\nAn alternative approach is to gain the upper Thomson Valley and follow it\nuntil a moderate slope provides access to gain the south ridge, thus avoiding\ntraversing several gendarmes on the ridge. Access to the upper Thomson Valley\nis gained by following the marked track from the Hopkins valley beginning at\nH37, GR 590 977, through the beech forest, traversing the pleasant terrace\n100-200m above the stream on the true left. Head up toward Mt Williams\u2019\nsouth ridge just before the pond in the upper Thomson is reached.", "ascent": "Doug Dick, E.W. Hullett, Harry Stevenson December 1934" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/%C5%8Dhau-landsborough/main-divide/mt-williams/north-face", "name": "North Face", "grade": "2+", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "2+", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": null } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": "From a camp near the tarn in the head of Baker Stream follow the glacier and\ncircle up the north face to the summit.", "ascent": "Phil Grover, Kevin Helm, John Nankervis, February 1983" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/%C5%8Dhau-landsborough/main-divide/mt-williams/south-west-face", "name": "South West Face", "grade": "16", "topo_ref": null, "image": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/route/williams.jpg?itok=wJdx5kv1", "images": [ { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/route/williams.jpg?itok=wJdx5kv1", "height": "238", "width": "325" } ], "length": "400m", "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": "400m", "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": "16", "description": null } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": "Access to the face is via the true left side of Thompson Stream starting from just below the terminal lake. Climb the face on reasonable quality rock to gain the ridge about 100m south of the summit. Descent is via the south ridge back to the glacier visible on the right of the photo. There is adequate protection for pitching. Soloed in around an hour by the first ascensionist.", "ascent": "Jamie Vinton-Boot, February 2011" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/%C5%8Dhau-landsborough/main-divide/mt-williams/provincial-climbing-team-nw-ridge", "name": "Provincial Climbing Team (NW Ridge)", "grade": "15,3", "topo_ref": null, "image": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/route/P2021059.JPG?itok=u4ij7FMK", "images": [ { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/route/P2021059.JPG?itok=u4ij7FMK", "height": "244", "width": "325" }, { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/route/P2030140.JPG?itok=e-yz1war", "height": "244", "width": "325" } ], "length": "400m", "pitches": [ { "alpine": "3", "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": "400m", "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": "15", "description": null } ], "quality": 1, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": "From the Williams/Percy Smith Col, traverse into the basin west of the\ndivide. Pick up the NW ridge at a convenient spot and follow it directly to\nthe summit. The difficulties can be overcome by traverses to the west. Rock\nis generally good. 6+ pitches, with most of the difficulties experienced on\nthe earlier pitches. Descent is via the divide ridge before dropping onto the\nwestern snow basin.", "ascent": "Don French" } ], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki/fritz-range/bismarck-pks": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki/fritz-range/bismarck-pks", "name": "Bismarck Pks", "altitude": "2538m", "access": null, "description": "At the head of the Victoria Glacier.", "latlng": [ "-43.50162405", "170.18176512" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki/fritz-range/bismarck-pks/west-face", "name": "West Face", "grade": "III,3+,WI2", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": "450m", "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": "III", "mtcook": "3+", "aid": null, "ice": "WI2", "mixed": null, "length": "450m", "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "From Pioneer Hut head north, traversing under Halcombe Col and around to the base of the West Face. Head up a narrow gully that quickly widens out. After 3 or 4 pitches the gully trends right - from here pick a line straight up the headwall to the summit of the south peak." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Tom Wilson, Steve Dowall, October 2008" } ], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki/fox-glacier-te-moeka-o-tuawe/bismark-peaks": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki/fox-glacier-te-moeka-o-tuawe/bismark-peaks", "name": "Bismark Peaks", "altitude": "2538m", "access": null, "description": null, "latlng": null, "routes": [], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/canterbury/jollie-range/the-spires": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/canterbury/jollie-range/the-spires", "name": "The Spires", "altitude": "2537m", "access": null, "description": "The Spires comprise one summit east of Gusty Col and three to the west.", "latlng": [ "-43.304881", "171.005287" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/canterbury/jollie-range/the-spires/western-spires", "name": "Western Spires", "grade": "3", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "3", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "The first ascents of the westernmost two Spires were completed as part of a difficult and sustained\r\ntraverse from Gusty Col to Pt 2507 metres." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Jim Wilson, Barry Smith, December 1955" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/canterbury/jollie-range/the-spires/eastern-spires", "name": "Eastern Spires", "grade": "3", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "3", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "The two eastern Spires, on each side of Gusty Col, are exposed climbs on very loose rock." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Melville (Jim) Glasgow, Keith Russell, January 1950" } ], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki/the-sierra-range/scott-pk": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki/the-sierra-range/scott-pk", "name": "Scott Pk", "altitude": "2537m", "access": null, "description": "Good short steep skiing lines", "latlng": [ "-43.67266", "170.00305" ], "routes": [], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aspiring/main-divide/mt-pollux": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aspiring/main-divide/mt-pollux", "name": "Mt Pollux", "altitude": "2536m", "access": null, "description": "Pollux is a fine mountain; the vertical relief is reminiscent of the Darran mountains. Top Forks Hut makes a great base, but may mean a long day and bivvying near the base of the mountain may be preferable.", "latlng": [ "-44.23250834", "168.87384443" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aspiring/main-divide/mt-pollux/chasm-pass-route", "name": "Chasm Pass Route", "grade": "III,2", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": "0m", "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": "III", "mtcook": "2", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": null } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": "0", "natural_pro": false, "description": "Climb to Chasm Pass and then cross Ice King Tops and Donald Glacier to join the Bluffs route to the summit. The route of the first ascent, but rather long and indirect.", "ascent": "E Miller, J S Shanks, G B Thomas, A J Scott, W Young, J Dumbleton, January 1934" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aspiring/main-divide/mt-pollux/bluffs-route", "name": "Bluffs Route", "grade": "2,III", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": "0m", "pitches": [ { "alpine": "2", "commitment": "III", "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": null } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": "0", "natural_pro": false, "description": "This is the preferred route. From Top Forks Hut, take the track up the valley towards Lake Castalia and pick a line through alpine scrub up the ridge you can see from the hut and down from the lake. If time is taken and good route finding adhered to, the worst of the alpine scrub can be avoided. There is a steep gully to be negotiated before the glacier is reached from where the climbing is straightforward to the summit.", "ascent": "C C Benzoni, R R Edwards, G L Edwards, L W Divers, D C Peters, March 1937" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aspiring/main-divide/mt-pollux/diana-buttress", "name": "Diana Buttress", "grade": "14,3,III", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": "3", "commitment": "III", "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": "14", "description": "The buttress lies immediately in line with the south ridge of Pollux. An enjoyable climb on clean rock (grade 14). From lake Diana ascend a large gravel fan before gaining height on tussock slopes to the base of the buttress." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Roger Coombs, Brian Dawkins, Rob Mitchell, January 1973" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aspiring/main-divide/mt-pollux/donald-glacier-route", "name": "Donald Glacier Route", "grade": "2,III", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": "2", "commitment": "III", "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "From the Waiatoto, climb the spur on the true left of the Donald River to gain the upper basin. The worst of the scrub is then avoided by ascending Draughtsman Spur and sidling high across the southern aspects of the Commissioner Range. Gain the Donald N\u00e9v\u00e9 and negotiate crevasses to the summit." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Allan Brent, Nina Dickerhof, James Thornton, December 2017" } ], "places": [], "image": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/wide/public/image/RF_Mt%20Pollux%20from%20near_fmt.jpeg?itok=rKBdlOLQ", "images": [ { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/wide/public/image/RF_Mt%20Pollux%20from%20near_fmt.jpeg?itok=rKBdlOLQ", "height": "612", "width": "428" } ] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/darrans/darran-mountains/mt-madeline": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/darrans/darran-mountains/mt-madeline", "name": "Mt Madeline", "altitude": "2536m", "access": null, "description": "Madeline is a popular climb from Turners Biv and a much less committing proposition than Tutoko. The first mountaineering party to venture into the Tutoko valley was that of Malcolm Ross, Kenneth Ross, W J Hodgkin and Tom Fyfe, in 1895. They claimed to have made the first ascent of Tutoko, but actually climbed the low (west) peak of Madeline.", "latlng": [ "-44.61423944", "168.04588795" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/darrans/darran-mountains/mt-madeline/south-west-face", "name": "South West Face", "grade": "2,II", "topo_ref": "14", "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": "2", "commitment": "II", "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": null } ], "quality": 1, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": "From the Madeline Snowfield climb the snow face and finish on the upper South Ridge. The ridge can be reached sooner, at about 2200m, for a more challenging climb. The South West Face was used in the first traverse of Madeline on 16 January 1955, by Bill Blee, Ron Dickie, Bill Gordon and Ralph Miller. They descended the top of the North East Ridge and traversed the snow shelf on the north side of the peak back to Turners Pass. Jim Strang, Bruce Clark and Paul Corwin made the first winter ascent (IV, WI2).", "ascent": "Alf Cowling, Samuel Turner, March 1920" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/darrans/darran-mountains/mt-madeline/mad-line", "name": "Mad Line", "grade": "IV,3", "topo_ref": "ML", "image": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/route/Mad%20Line.jpg?itok=30BzMd9W", "images": [ { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/route/Mad%20Line.jpg?itok=30BzMd9W", "height": "260", "width": "325" } ], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": "IV", "mtcook": "3", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "A good route with a fun rock climb leading directly to the west summit of Mt Madeline. Access the rock ridge by climbing nearly to Turner Pass (the col east of Pt 2119) either from the Madeline Snowfield or slabs above the Age Glacier." } ], "quality": 1, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Steve Skelton, Justin Venable, Simon Rutherford, December 29 2016" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/darrans/darran-mountains/mt-madeline/north-west-buttress", "name": "North West Buttress", "grade": null, "topo_ref": "13", "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": "Climb the rock ridge from Turners Pass.", "ascent": "Margaret Clark, Jim Clark, G D Cowie, December 1958" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/darrans/darran-mountains/mt-madeline/north-east-ridge-glacier-creek", "name": "North East Ridge from Glacier Creek", "grade": null, "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": "From the Donne Lake outlet, take easy slopes up and then left of the bluffs to gain the broad snow shelf and then the upper part of the North East Ridge.", "ascent": "R Offer, G Mason, A Witten-Hannah, December 1953" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/darrans/darran-mountains/mt-madeline/north-east-ridge", "name": "North East Ridge", "grade": "13,2,III", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": "2", "commitment": "III", "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": "13", "description": null } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": "The full North East Ridge is a long climb. Start from the Hollyford Valley and head up Madeline Creek to gain the ridge just beyond the bushline. The first ascent traversed the mountain to Turner\u2019s Bivvy and the Tutoko Valley.", "ascent": "Ian Brown, Tom Williams, February 2009" } ], "places": [], "image": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/wide/public/image/D84_0.jpg?itok=5xICfnu0", "images": [ { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/wide/public/image/D84_0.jpg?itok=5xICfnu0", "height": "340", "width": "428" } ] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aspiring/snowdrift-range/mt-maori": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aspiring/snowdrift-range/mt-maori", "name": "Mt Maori", "altitude": "2535m", "access": null, "description": "First climbed on March 5, 1935, by Russell and Gordon Edwards, Ernie Smith, and Doug Knowles, Maori repulsed further advances for 25 years, until Les and Doug Brough, Lindsay Bruce, and Alex Gourlay finally succeeded from the Snow-White Glacier after a series of attempts totalling 55 days spread over seven years. The route of the original ascent from the Dart was not repeated until 1966.", "latlng": [ "-44.43631809", "168.61056616" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aspiring/snowdrift-range/mt-maori/whitbourn-saddle", "name": "From the Whitbourn Saddle", "grade": null, "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "From the Whitbourn Saddle via the Snow White and \u2018Maori\u2019 glaciers, reach \r\n\r\nthe South West Ridge and follow it to the top." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": null }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aspiring/snowdrift-range/mt-maori/east-ridge", "name": "East Ridge", "grade": "3,II", "topo_ref": "1", "image": null, "images": [], "length": "0m", "pitches": [ { "alpine": "3", "commitment": "II", "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": null } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": "0", "natural_pro": false, "description": "From Cascade Saddle follow route 3.1 before veering left under the South Face of Wahine to reach P\u0101keh\u0101 Col. The route on M\u0101ori zig-zags up a series of rotten rock ledges on the Dart Face to regain the ridge above the main gendarme. Above this the rock improves somewhat but is still poor, with some delicate towers just below the summit. The climb would take about five hours from Cascade Saddle and one and a half hours from P\u0101keh\u0101 Col.", "ascent": "Russell Edwards, Gordon Edwards, Ernie Smith, Doug Knowles, March 1935" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aspiring/snowdrift-range/mt-maori/south-face", "name": "South Face", "grade": "II,3", "topo_ref": "2", "image": null, "images": [], "length": "0m", "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": "II", "mtcook": "3", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": null } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": "0", "natural_pro": false, "description": "Follow route towards P\u0101keh\u0101 Col and the East Ridge then drop down to underneath the face. The route parallels the East Ridge through a rock band on mixed ground, and up steep snow slopes to the summit. This is a good mixed route and of better quality than the East Ridge.", "ascent": "Allan Uren, Phil Penney, April 1987;" } ], "places": [], "image": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/wide/public/image/Maori_opt.jpeg?itok=Jp3CKxoh", "images": [ { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/wide/public/image/Maori_opt.jpeg?itok=Jp3CKxoh", "height": "426", "width": "647" }, { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/image/Copy%20%283%29%20of%20UpperDart_opt.jpeg?itok=iaD_f94e", "height": "239", "width": "325" } ] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/main-divide-of-the-southern-alps/mt-avalanche/mt-avalanche-east-pk": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/main-divide-of-the-southern-alps/mt-avalanche/mt-avalanche-east-pk", "name": "Mt Avalanche East Pk", "altitude": "2533m", "access": null, "description": "The East Ridge and East Peak of Avalanche dominate the view from the road up the Matukiktuki Valley. They also dominated Paul Powell\u2019s climbing intentions for six years until October 23, 1960, when with Don McTaggart, Bob Cunninghame and Geoff Bayliss, he finally succeeded with a route from the Hood Glacier.", "latlng": [ "-44.427044", "168.74707" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/main-divide-of-the-southern-alps/mt-avalanche/mt-avalanche-east-pk/east-ridge", "name": "East Ridge", "grade": "IV,3", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": "IV", "mtcook": "3", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "Climb to the col west of Duncan\u2019s Knob, either from Glacier Burn or Aspiring Flat. The ridge is then followed, with some minor digressions on the north side to turn some of the early bumps. A difficult step about 70m high occurs just past a sharp bend in the ridge; beyond this the ridge is a mixture of very easy sections on loose rock and more demanding climbing on the steeper sections, until the col at the foot of the final step below the peak is reached. This step has been climbed by a difficult chimney on the north east side, but easier ledges with good holds are present on the Avalanche Glacier side. \r\n\r\nThe first ascent, from a bivvy near the col at the end of the ridge, required about nine hours to the summit." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Bruce Robertson, Dave Innes, Easter 1969" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/main-divide-of-the-southern-alps/mt-avalanche/mt-avalanche-east-pk/hood-glacier", "name": "Via Hood Glacier", "grade": "III,2", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": "III", "mtcook": "2", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "Access the Hood Glacier. From the head of the n\u00e9v\u00e9 a short but steep rock climb leads to the summit ridge between the east and the middle peaks. The rock notch can also be reached from the col between Duncan\u2019s Knob and the East Ridge (approached either from Aspiring Flat or Glacier Burn), by sidling the first knob of the ridge on the north side on an exposed deer trail, and then traversing, on a gradual descent, the snowgrass ledges and snow on the north side of the ridge.\r\n\r\nThe climb would require a bivvy above the bushline." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Paul Powell, Don McTaggart, Bob Cunninghame, Geoff Bayliss, October 1960" } ], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki/tasman-glacier/grand-plateau/anzac-pks": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki/tasman-glacier/grand-plateau/anzac-pks", "name": "Anzac Pks", "altitude": "2528m", "access": null, "description": "Easy climb from the Grand Plateau.", "latlng": [ "-43.60494553", "170.17058372" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki/tasman-glacier/grand-plateau/anzac-pks/standard-route", "name": "Standard Route", "grade": "1", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "1", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "Can be climbed with relative ease from the Plateau via a wide gully between the two peaks." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Samuel Turner, Feb 1917." }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki/tasman-glacier/grand-plateau/anzac-pks/reasonably-out-gate", "name": "Reasonably Out the Gate", "grade": "5,III,WI3,M3", "topo_ref": null, "image": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/routes/Screen%20Shot%202020-10-30%20at%2012.38.13%20PM.png?itok=yqIi2sKn", "images": [ { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/routes/Screen%20Shot%202020-10-30%20at%2012.38.13%20PM.png?itok=yqIi2sKn", "height": "244", "width": "325" } ], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": "5", "commitment": "III", "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": "WI3", "mixed": "M3", "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": null } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": "Located above the Caroline glacier on the SW face of West Anzac Peak, follow the obvious ice line in the corner system on the right side of the face. 5 - 6 pitches of sustained ice with cruxes of WI3+/M3+. Quality rock provides protection through sections of thin ice. Cornice can form at the top of the gully but top out unobstructed.", "ascent": "Melvin Krook, Cameron Jardell, October 2020." } ], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki-tai-poutini/main-divide/beatrice-pk": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki-tai-poutini/main-divide/beatrice-pk", "name": "Beatrice Pk", "altitude": "2528m", "access": null, "description": null, "latlng": [ "-43.62568", "170.0932" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki/main-divide/beatrice-pk/standard-routes", "name": "Standard Routes", "grade": "2-", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "2-", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "The easiest route is via Baker Saddle (see the Strauchon Glacier Area section) and south along the Main Divide Ridge. The peak can also be climbed from the south via the Main Divide, via the ridge from the Hooker Valley onto Raureka (Hooker Valley Route) or easily from Dilemma." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Peter Graham, Hugh Chambers, Dorothy Holdsworth, Jan 1914." } ], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/canterbury/gamack-range/mt-jukes": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/canterbury/gamack-range/mt-jukes", "name": "Mt Jukes", "altitude": "2526m", "access": null, "description": "This peak is situated at the head of the Gammack Range and is separated from the Liebig Range by Jollie Saddle.\nFirst ascent: A D Jackson, S A Shrimpton, C A Reid, C W Don, Mar 1941 (North Ridge, descended North East face).", "latlng": [ "-43.662518", "170.330905" ], "routes": [], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/otago/richardson-mountains/centaur-pks": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/otago/richardson-mountains/centaur-pks", "name": "Centaur Pks", "altitude": "2525m", "access": "Access from the west via Arthurs Creek or Little Devil Creek is on Rees Valley Station. Permission must be obtained from the station prior to the start of the trip. Detailed information can be obtained at https://www.reesvalley.co.nz/access/\nAccess from the east via Glencairn Creek or Sixteen Mile Creek crosses Branches Station. Permission must be obtained from the station prior to the start of the trip. Contact James Murray, phone: +64 3 441 8421.", "description": "On the Richardson Mountains, Otago.", "latlng": [ "-44.6347", "168.5692" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/otago/richardson-mountains/centaur-pks/west-peak-2499m-south-col", "name": "West Peak (2499m) via South Col", "grade": null, "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "Climb to a col to the south of the peak and approximately 60m below the summit and follow the summit ridge. This is the route of the first ascent and appears more difficult today." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": null }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/otago/richardson-mountains/centaur-pks/west-peak-2499m-north-ridge", "name": "West Peak (2499m) North Ridge", "grade": null, "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "Climb to the North Ridge to reach it at a nick above the gendarme. Follow the ridge to the summit, detouring as necessary mainly on the East Face." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "H.F. Wright and J. Robertson, Feb. 1914." }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/otago/richardson-mountains/centaur-pks/middle-peak-2450m", "name": "Middle Peak (2450m)", "grade": null, "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "As for Mt Ferguson to the col, then from the col sidle down to a hanging valley at the head of Sixteen Mile Creek. From the hanging valley, scramble up to the glacier and col between the Middle and East Peak. From the col it is a short scramble up the east ridge to the summit." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": null }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/otago/richardson-mountains/centaur-pks/route-east-peak", "name": "Route to East Peak", "grade": "2,II", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": "0m", "pitches": [ { "alpine": "2", "commitment": "II", "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": null } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": "0", "natural_pro": false, "description": "As for West Peak until part way up the south summit ridge when steep slopes give access to a glacier to the east, or as for Middle Peak to glacier. Cross glacier to snow slopes leading up the south face of the East Peak to a col on the west side of the peak and from there along the ridge to the summit As for West Peak until part way up the south summit ridge when steep slopes give access to a glacier to the east, or as for Middle Peak to glacier. Cross glacier to snow slopes leading up the south face of the East Peak to a col on the west side of the peak and from there along the ridge to the summit (2525m).", "ascent": null } ], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki/liebig-range/mt-sydney-king": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki/liebig-range/mt-sydney-king", "name": "Mt Sydney King", "altitude": "2521m", "access": null, "description": "tba", "latlng": [ "-43.5078495", "170.43485641" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki/liebig-range/mt-sydney-king/unnamed", "name": "Unnamed", "grade": null, "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "From the Aida Glacier climb north up a snow spur to the col then continue north-east along snow and rock 150m to the summit. Alternatively, climb to the col on the south-east ridge that leads from Acland, then up a rocky ridge to the summit. The Joie de Vivre Buttress, on the north-western side, has also been climbed - this can be accessed from Phyllis." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Otto Frind, Conrad Kain, Mar 1914" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki/liebig-range/mt-sydney-king/unnamed-0", "name": "Unnamed", "grade": null, "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "From the head of the Joie de Vivre Glacier climb to the col south-east of \r\nMt Phyllis then travel north-east along snow and rock to the summit." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": null }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki/liebig-range/mt-sydney-king/joie-de-vivre-buttress", "name": "Joie de Vivre Buttress", "grade": null, "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "Climb the buttress directly to the summit from the Joie de Vivre Glacier." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "G Vickers, D Launder, R Coombs, Dec 1968. A NZMGA guides course put a number of routes on this buttress in March 1991" } ], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki/sealy-range/mt-jean": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki/sealy-range/mt-jean", "name": "Mt Jean", "altitude": "2519m", "access": null, "description": "Sealy Ra", "latlng": [ "-43.76701922", "170.0310581" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki/sealy-range/mt-jean/normal-route", "name": "Normal Route", "grade": "1", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "1", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "Short easy routes exist from the Sladden N\u00e9v\u00e9 up the northern rock and snow slopes of Mts Jean, Jeanette and Marie." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "W Fisher, Maughan, M Sloman, Conrad Kain, Dec 1914." }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki/sealy-range/mt-jean/vanity-fare", "name": "Vanity Fare", "grade": "5-", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "5-", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": null } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": "The route begins at the centre of the south face, and goes up through bulges\nto the main gully. The gully exits 70 metres left of the summit, but when\nwell up a smaller gully breaks right and finishes on the summit. Close to\n1000m of vertical height gain, of which 600 m are steep.", "ascent": "Bill McLeod, October 1993" } ], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/ni/taranaki/taranaki-mt-egmont": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/ni/taranaki/taranaki-mt-egmont", "name": "Taranaki Mt Egmont", "altitude": "2518m", "access": "Crag Access\nWhile access can be described from the road ends, it is more practical to provide access information from Tahurangi Lodge, as it is central amongst the crags and provides an excellent base. Access to Tahurangi Lodge is gained by following the Translator Road from North Egmont (1 hour, 15 minutes), or the Around the Mountain Circuit from Stratford Plateau (1 hour, 40 minutes).", "description": "A solitary peak on the North Island's west coast, the mountain dominates the landscape. Its graceful shape and visibility have made it one of New Zealand's most photographed and painted mountains. That attraction and the ease of access to this lone alpine peak have probably made it New Zealand's most climbed mountain.\nFor rock climbing on the mountains see https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/ni/taranaki\nSkiing\nIt is possible to ski on Mt Taranaki from April to February, but more reliably between June and December. Snow depths vary with up to 1.5m on the ridges and 15m in the deep valleys, with the surface conditions very changeable particularly during early/mid winter. An icy winter can make skiing on the upper portion of the mountain, above 2100m, impractical until late August. Spring skiing (September to late November) can be excellent.\nClimbing on skis (skinning) has never been very popular as the terrain and usual snow type is not ideal for skinning. In most cases a skier will make faster and easier headway uphill on foot wearing crampons. A sound rule on Mt Taranaki is to always climb up the route you intend to ski down. This is in order to judge the ski route for snow conditions as hard rime, ice or spring sluffs can make unpleasant surprises.\nMost of the summit runs could be classed as adventurous\u2014in particular Surrey Road, and Pleasant Valley. Ultimately enjoyment on the day is dependent on the skier and snow conditions. Teds Alley runs adjacent to and south of East Ridge and could be described as extreme.\nIt is expected that those who want to ski away from the commercial ski areas should be a mountain-wise and well equipped party and at least strong intermediate skiers, preferably better\u2014the upper slopes are continually steep. With good snow conditions skiers can traverse between routes, and very \ufb01t skiers can do two routes in one day.", "latlng": [ "-39.29586506", "174.06380559" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/ni/taranaki/taranaki-mt-egmont/crater-rim-traverse", "name": "Crater Rim Traverse", "grade": null, "topo_ref": "6.01", "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "A seldom-completed circuit of the entire crater rim.\r\nMost of the crater rim is an exposed, easy scramble in summer time; with occasional \u2018crux\u2019 sections\u2014some parties may require a rope. Suggested direction is counter-clockwise. This would give a couple of abseils and the easier climbing.\r\nWinter, however, involves a series of steep climbs and descents over some, dubious at times, ice formations. Direction is a matter of personal preference depending on how much steep climbing the party wishes to accomplish. It is best climbed clockwise.\r\nThe best time to do the traverse, in winter conditions, is late winter when the ice has consolidated." } ], "quality": 1, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "The earliest recorded winter circuit of this route was by John Jordan, Ted Thomson, Rob Trusler and others during the mid\u2013late 1960s." }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/ni/taranaki/taranaki-mt-egmont/high-level-round-mountain-circuit", "name": "High Level Round the Mountain Circuit", "grade": null, "topo_ref": "6.02", "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "Starting from Tahurangi Lodge climb initially on the North Ridge to 1800m. Travel west on a rising traverse to the middle of the Flounder at 1950m. Continue west to Minarapa Col at 1860m. It is an obvious break in the ridge above the prominent point of Saw Tooth (1820m). \r\n Traverse Minarapa Valley under the Hammer and climb south-west to 2000m and to the base of the Turtle at 2000m.\r\nGradually descend towards the Big Pyramid 1458m. Passing above the Big Pyramid and beneath a long line of bluffs above the Kahui moss slopes, the route goes just above Turehu Hill (1420m). A lone snow pole stands on the col immediately above Turehu hill.\r\nCross into the Okahu Gorge and gain Hughsons Ledge at 1585m. Gradually climb to Bobs Ridge above Bobs Bluff (1967m). Descend to Skeets Ridge and traverse to Fanthams Peak (1966m). If condition are unsuitable a descent of Bobs Ridge to the Around the Mountain Circuit at 1400m and a climb up to Fanthams Peak may be more appropriate.\r\nFrom the top of Fanthams Peak it is necessary to climb slightly across the head of the Kapuni Gorge, and then to descend gradually to the Policeman (1876m) and to then to Warwick Col between Warwick Castle and Lion Rock. Descend into Organ Pipe Valley and traverse under the bluffs at 1500m to Tahurangi Lodge.\r\nThe best time to undertake the high level circuit is early to late summer. In November and December some of the deeper gorges still have a depth of snow suf\ufb01cient to ease the crossings. After March, however, the scoria on the southern slopes is liable to be frozen, making conditions dif\ufb01cult even for experienced climbers.\r\nTime: 12 hours (in good conditions)." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": null } ], "places": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/ni/taranaki/taranaki-mt-egmont/summit-climbs-from-dawson-falls", "name": "Summit climbs from Dawson Falls", "altitude": null, "access": "If traveling north to the mountain, at Hawera travel west along \u2018Surf Highway\u2019 State Highway 45 to Manaia and turn right onto Manaia Road. Follow Manaia Road all the way to Dawson Falls, a distance of 45km from Hawera.\nWhen traveling south on State Highway 3, 450m past the second roundabout in Stratford, turn right onto Celia Street which becomes Opunake Road at the town boundary. Approximately 15km from Stratford turn right onto Manaia Road and travel due north to Egmont National Park and Dawson Falls road end at 905m, 23km from Stratford.\nDawson Falls Visitor Centre is well worth a visit with excellent permanent displays, up- to-date information on the tracks and conditions and current weather reports. Maps, handbooks, hut tickets and intentions book are available. A mock-up of old Syme Hut has been erected in the centre and incorporates some original material recovered from the hut.", "description": "Dawson Falls is on the South East side of the mountain. The alpine climbs are listed in this section.\nAccommodation\nKonini Lodge\nOperated by DoC and situated below the Dawson Falls road end at an altitude of 880m, Konini Lodge has bunkroom accommodation for up to 38 people in 6 bunkrooms. It has a fully equipped kitchen, hot and cold running water, showers, drying room and electric heating. Hut passes and tickets are not valid at Konini Lodge and bookings can be made at the Dawson Falls Visitor Centre (DFVC).\nDawson Falls Mountain Lodge\nSituated opposite the DFVC at 900m and nestled against the bush, Dawson Falls Mountain Lodge is a fully licensed tourist facility, established in 1896, offering everything from a la carte dining to a hot bath. A shop sells a myriad of goodies from ice creams and chocolate bars to light meals and boasts a warm \ufb01replace. Bookings are essential for this warm and comfortable facility.\nKapuni Lodge\nJust above the Visitor\u2019s Centre take the Summit Track to Fanthams Peak. At an approximate altitude of 1365m turn right onto the short Kapuni Lodge track and ascend to the Lodge at 1400m approximately 1hr 15 minutes from DFVC. The Lodge is owned and operated by Mt Egmont Alpine Club and is locked when not in use. Situated on the edge of the Kapuni Gorge, the facility offers excellent vistas south and east. Two bunkrooms sleep 18 people and the Lodge is equipped with wood stove, solar powered lighting, gas cooking, cooking utensils, cutlery and crockery. As the facility is usually locked, bookings are essential and should be made through the Club.\nSyme Hut\nFrom Kapuni Lodge continue up the Summit Track for another 1 hr 30 minutes. When the rim of Fanthams Peak is reached, follow the poles west to Syme Hut 1960m. Another set of poles curves north toward the South Entrance of the mountain\u2019s crater. Syme Hut is operated by DoC, has mattresses for up to 10 people and drinking water. Winter conditions can sometimes coat the hut in thick rime and it can even be buried by snow. The door is on the east wall at the north-east corner.", "latlng": [ "-39.323542", "174.103518" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/ni/taranaki/taranaki-mt-egmont/summit-climbs-from-dawson-falls/south-face", "name": "South Face", "grade": "1-", "topo_ref": "1.01", "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "The climb of Taranaki/Mt Egmont from Dawson Falls, via Fanthams Peak is a pleasant summer climb although it involves tedious scoria slopes. In winter it can prove to be icy.\r\nThe route leaves Dawson Falls on the Summit Track just above the Visitor Centre at 905m. The track climbs up past Hooker Shelter to the junction to Kapuni Lodge at 1365m and at 1460m passes the junction to the Upper Lake Dive track. Continue climbing on snow/scoria above the steps following the poled route over the Knoll 1675m and from there the route follows up the scoria to a small ridge just before a rocky outcrop on the skyline (Copestone). \r\nHere the track splits, Fanthams Peak and Syme Hut 1960m, is straight on up past Copestone, the route to the hut is poled across Fanthams Peak and is 10 minutes from the junction. The route to the right heading north above the head of the Kapuni Gorge circumvents Fanthams Peak and Syme Hut and contours onto Rangitoto Flat. \r\nFrom Rangitoto Flat the route is unpoled and continues north directly up the main face to the South Entrance, a low point in the crater rim just west of Mackay Rocks. Terrain is scoria, while winter can produce varied snow and ice conditions, often with extensive rime. From South Entrance the summit dome lies to the north and a number of routes can be used to access the summit at 2518m. The most popular is opposite the Sharks Tooth but the south face of the dome and the rocky outcrop to the west (The Sisters) can provide interesting ice routes in winter.\r\nDescent: If returning to Syme Hut is the same, descent from Fanthams Peak is generally via the Kaupokonui Bowl just to the south of the Knoll. The descent of both the main peak to Syme Hut and the upper part of Fanthams Peak can be tedious with rimed snow conditions in winter and is not to be underestimated. Route \ufb01nding across Rangitoto Flat and Fanthams Peak can be tedious in whiteout conditions.\r\nTimes: Dawson Falls to Kapuni Lodge Junction \u2013 1 hour, 15 minutes. Kapuni Lodge Junction to Fanthams Peak \u2013 1 hour, 30 minutes. Fanthams Peak to Summit \u2013 1 hour, 30 minutes. Total 4 hours, 15 minutes." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": null }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/ni/taranaki/taranaki-mt-egmont/summit-climbs-from-dawson-falls/skeets-ridge", "name": "Skeets Ridge", "grade": "1", "topo_ref": "1.02", "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "1", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "Climb to Syme Hut as per the South Face route. From Syme descend onto western edge of Rangitoto Flat and sidle west to gain Skeets Ridge. Follow the ridge directly to the crater rim.\r\nAlternatively, take the Upper Lake Dive Track at 1460m and continue around Fanthams Peak until the Punehu Stream is encountered, which \ufb02ows between Fanthams Peak and the main cone of the mountain. The track skirts the top of the Punehu Gorge which is the highest point on the Around the Mountain Circuit at 1540m. Skeets Ridge is 100m to the west and can be easily gained and followed to the summit.\r\nDescent: Via the South Face route." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": null }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/ni/taranaki/taranaki-mt-egmont/summit-climbs-from-dawson-falls/bobs-ridge", "name": "Bobs Ridge", "grade": "1+", "topo_ref": "1.03", "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "1+", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "Climb to Syme Hut as per the South Face route. From Syme descend onto Rangitoto Flat and traverse to the west and gain the ridge directly above Bobs Bluff at 2000m. Follow the ridge up to the shoulder of West Ridge at 2200m. A distinct point is formed at the junction of West and Bobs Ridges. From here one can descend into the Okahu Gorge and follow the valley to the crater or continue up the West Ridge. A short distance up from the base of the bluffs at 2300m a ledge provides an interesting access into the top of Okahu Gorge. The more adventurous can ascend the bluffs above. When topping out on the crater rim 2440m, continue towards Sharks Tooth to \ufb01nd a suitable descent into the crater\r\nAlternatively, take the Upper Lake Dive Track at 1460m and continue around Fanthams Peak until the Mangahume Stream is encountered at 1400m. The track descends into a narrow steep sided gorge and Bobs Ridge forms the west side of the gorge. A short scramble through the scrub on to the ridge gives access to Bobs Knob 1780m. Follow the ridge to the base of Bobs Bluff 1850m and climb the 55 metre high, grade 14, Nose route. Follow the top of the bluff to gain the ridge up to the shoulder of West Ridge. Continue on as above.\r\nDescent: Via the South Face route." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": null }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/ni/taranaki/taranaki-mt-egmont/summit-climbs-from-dawson-falls/traversing-kapuni-gorge-fanthams", "name": "Traversing Kapuni Gorge from Fanthams Peak to Curtis Ridge", "grade": null, "topo_ref": "1.04", "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "Descend into the gorge just below the Knoll (1675m) and follow the eroded slide to the bottom. The base of the gorge is clean rock and access in and out varies. Scramble up the bank and onto the scoria slope. Then climb in an easterly direction until the small spur leading north is gained. The bottom end of the spur is bluffed and a couple of traverses may be necessary in order to gain enough height to avoid these bluffs. Follow this spur in a northerly direction until Curtis Ridge proper is gained, just below the Priests Fingers at 1580m. From here the Curtis Track leads back to Stratford Plateau. \r\nThere are no huts on the route, although Kapuni Lodge is easily gained from the Knoll. This route is unmarked and parties need to be familiar with it in poor visibility.\r\nApproximate time from the Knoll to the Stratford Plateau: 2 hours." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": null } ], "places": [], "image": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/wide/public/image/dawson%20falls.jpg?itok=2rwFCKDI", "images": [ { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/wide/public/image/dawson%20falls.jpg?itok=2rwFCKDI", "height": "675", "width": "900" } ] }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/ni/taranaki/taranaki-mt-egmont/summit-climbs-from-east-egmont", "name": "Summit climbs from East Egmont", "altitude": null, "access": "From State Highway 3 approximately 600m north of the northern roundabout at Stratford, turn west onto Pembroke Road. Approximately 1km before the park boundary (10km from Stratford) is the Egmont National Park Headquarters known as the Stratford Area Of\ufb01ce. There is a book available for recording your intentions. It is a further 8km up the road through the bush past the Mountain House Motor Lodge (850m) to reach Stratford Plateau at 1140m, 18km from Stratford. The Stratford Plateau has a poor record for vehicle security. You are advised to park lower down the road at the Mountain House Motor Lodge. There is no tramper accommodation at this road end.", "description": "East Egmont is on the eastern side of the mountain. The alpine climbs are listed in this section.\nAccommodation\nMountain House Motor Lodge\nAt 850m and 15km from Stratford, the Mountain House Motor Lodge is a tourist licensed hotel with an award winning \u00e0 la carte restaurant. It has self-contained suites, motel units, shop and ski rental facilities.\nManganui Lodge\nFollow the Manganui Gorge Track to the larger building at the base of the ski \ufb01eld. Owned and operated by the Stratford Mountain Club, Manganui Lodge (1240m) is the Club\u2019s ski area base. It can be made available during the off-season. It is a fully equipped facility with all the amenities of home, including a telephone. The building is usually locked and bookings are essential.\n\u2021 This building burnt down in August 2002. As this book goes to print it is being rebuilt and is expected to re-open by summer 2003/04. Nearby, a DoC public shelter, for day use only is open. It has toilets and water available.", "latlng": [ "-39.307804", "174.099741" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/ni/taranaki/taranaki-mt-egmont/summit-climbs-from-east-egmont/curtis-ridge", "name": "Curtis Ridge", "grade": "1+", "topo_ref": "2.01", "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "1+", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "Curtis Ridge is the main dividing ridge between the Manganui and the Kapuni Gorges. Its lower southern reaches are bisected by steep gullies which give rise to the Waingongoro River.\r\nThe route is not now of\ufb01cially maintained since a fatality in the summer of 1988, but it is still discernible to the tussock line. It can be used by the enthusiast who wishes to get away from the beaten track. The upper section of Curtis Ridge is exposed and prone to rock and icefalls. \r\nFind the track entrance about 200m below the Flying Fox on the vehicle track above the Stratford Plateau. The eroded track sidles along the northern slope until it joins the ridge proper on the mossy slopes below a prominent rocky outcrop named the Priests Fingers at 1580 m. From the Priests Fingers the route follows the scoria ridge until merging with the main peak below and slightly to the south of Mackay Rocks. Traverse left and join the southern route to the south entrance. There are no huts on the route but Syme Hut below can be accessed from the point where Curtis Ridge merges with the main peak." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": null }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/ni/taranaki/taranaki-mt-egmont/summit-climbs-from-east-egmont/curtis-ridgeupper-manganui-couloir", "name": "Curtis Ridge/Upper Manganui Couloir", "grade": "WI2", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": "WI2", "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "The grade depends on how close to the crest of the Priest\u2019s Fingers you stay. Under snow and ice, the Curtis Ridge, insignificant from below, provides a beautiful alpine excursion on a sequence of delicate snow areas with technical interest over the rocky section know as the Priest\u2019s Fingers. Unfortunately, it dies out fairly low on the mountain so the best way to the summit is to traverse into the long curving couloir that drops to the top of the Manganui Gorge, or better still, use Curtis as your approach to the best the mountain has to offer, Bob\u2019s Bluff." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": null }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/ni/taranaki/taranaki-mt-egmont/summit-climbs-from-east-egmont/manganui-direct", "name": "Manganui Direct", "grade": "1+", "topo_ref": "2.02", "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "1+", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "From Manganui Lodge follow the T-bar to the base of the Top Tow (rope tow). Ascend the slope following the safety fence to 1540m and cross the large open vee-shaped valley. This is the start zone for the Manganui Monster (avalanches of size 4\u20135 have originated from here in the past). Ascend the rounded ridge right of the south entrance to the crater rim.\r\nAlternatively, from upper Curtis Ridge climb directly towards the summit ascending Mackay Rocks (Right of Mackays 2-)." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": null }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/ni/taranaki/taranaki-mt-egmont/summit-climbs-from-east-egmont/teds-alley", "name": "Teds Alley", "grade": "2", "topo_ref": "2.03", "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "2", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "Directly under the cliffs of East Ridge, Teds Alley narrows dramatically and terminates in a short steep step at 2180m. Early winter is the best time to climb when the crux has received a suitable coating of ice. Late winter when the step is \ufb01lled in with snow drifts it can provide the more adventurous skier an exhilarating descent.\r\nFrom Manganui Lodge follow the T-bar and then the rope tow passing the south side of the Policeman 1876m. Climb into the steepening Teds Alley and stay close in under the bluff. At the crux a sheltered belay stance can be found on either side of the gut. An excellent 1\u20132 pitch route immediately under the bluffs gives access to the easier upper slopes and the crater rim at 2460m.\r\nDescent: Either down the easier North Ridge route or more directly: climb the chimney from the crater and descend directly below, moving south-east across the East Face, returning to East Ridge below the crux. Cross the ridge above the Policeman, 1876m, to the \ufb02anks above the ski \ufb01eld and descend slopes to the ski-\ufb01eld." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": null }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/ni/taranaki/taranaki-mt-egmont/summit-climbs-from-east-egmont/east-ridge-and-sharks-tooth", "name": "East Ridge and Sharks Tooth", "grade": "2+", "topo_ref": "2.04", "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "2+", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "Grade 2+ (On ice only)\r\nEast Ridge is an excellent summer or winter route and is easily discernible from the main highway descending due east from the Sharks Tooth. In summer it offers good rock underfoot and in winter, variable ice.\r\nFrom Manganui Lodge follow the T-bar and then the rope tow. In winter ascend to the left of the Policeman, 1876m, to the base of East Ridge. In summer, from near the top of the rope tow, traverse north and ascend to the right of the Policeman to gain East Ridge.\r\nOnce on the ridge, follow the crest with increasing exposure to a steepening (crux) at approximately 2200m. Continue climbing to the top of Sharks Tooth (2510m).\r\nDescend due north 60m along the ar\u00eate from Sharks Tooth to a \u2018chimney\u2019, marked by wire and old steel standards, descend the chimney into the crater. In winter the chimney may be blocked. If this is the case continue north along the ridge and by dropping down the East Face for a few metres should reveal a small series of \u2018steps\u2019 onto the top of Surrey Road route.\r\nDescent: Either down the easier North Ridge route or more directly; climb the chimney from the crater and descend directly below, moving south-east across the East Face, returning to East Ridge below the crux. Cross the ridge above the Policeman, 1876m, to the \ufb02anks above the ski \ufb01eld and descend slopes to the ski-\ufb01eld.\r\n\u2021 At the base of the crux, at 2200m, a short \ufb02attening of the ridge occurs and a small step in the bluff line is passable in winter. Carefully traverse to the south and gain the easier slopes above the crux of Teds Alley. This alternative avoids the more icy conditions found at both cruxes but, does involve an airy traverse.\r\nTimes: Stratford Plateau \u2013 Manganui Lodge 30min. Manganui Lodge \u2013 Policeman 1.5hr. Policeman \u2013 Crux 1.5hr. Crux \u2013 Sharks Tooth 1hr. Total: 4hr, 30min." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": null }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/ni/taranaki/taranaki-mt-egmont/summit-climbs-from-east-egmont/east-face-%E2%80%93-pleasant-valley", "name": "East Face \u2013 Pleasant Valley", "grade": "1+", "topo_ref": "2.05", "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "1+", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "East Ridge is an excellent summer or winter route and is easily discernible from State Highway 3. In summer it offers good rock underfoot and in winter excellent ice.\r\nFrom Manganui Lodge follow the T-bar and then the rope tow. In winter ascend to the left of the Policeman (1876m), to the base of East Ridge. In summer, from near the top of the rope tow, traverse north and ascend to the right of the Policeman to gain East Ridge.\r\nOnce on the ridge, follow the crest with increasing exposure to a change in grade at approximately 2200m. On a rising traverse head north from East Ridge ar\u00eate to gain a steep scoop after approximately 120m and climb directly up Pleasant Valley to the chimney at the crater rim (2480m).\r\nDescent: Either down the easier North Ridge route or more directly; climb the chimney from the Crater and descend directly below, moving south-east across the East Face, returning to East Ridge below the crux. Cross the ridge above the Policeman (1876m), to the \ufb02anks above the ski\ufb01eld and descend slopes to the ski-\ufb01eld.\r\nThe name was given by John Jordan and Ted Thomson after a mid 1960s winter ascent of the route." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": null }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/ni/taranaki/taranaki-mt-egmont/summit-climbs-from-east-egmont/surrey-road", "name": "Surrey Road", "grade": "1+", "topo_ref": "2.06", "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "1+", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "From Manganui Lodge follow the T-bar to the Top Tow Shelter at 1420m. Ascend a small knoll immediately north of the shelter and continue traversing north onto a col above the Ngarara Bluff at 1620m. Proceed up the ridge and veer right to round the left-most edge of the Top Tier of the Organ Pipes. Traverse north to a shoulder immediately under the bluff at the base of Pleasant Valley and ascend the steepening ramp of Surrey Road. Descend directly into the crater.\r\nDescent: Back down Surrey Road or the easier North Ridge route." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": null }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/ni/taranaki/taranaki-mt-egmont/summit-climbs-from-east-egmont/south-face", "name": "South Face", "grade": null, "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": "1000m", "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": "1000m", "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "Summit, Crater, South Face, Fanthams Peak, Kapuni Lodge or return to Manganui Ski Area via Curtis Ridge.\r\nSki time 30 minutes approx." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": null } ], "places": [], "image": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/wide/public/image/East_Egmont.jpg?itok=MSMg0Pzl", "images": [ { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/wide/public/image/East_Egmont.jpg?itok=MSMg0Pzl", "height": "671", "width": "900" } ] }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/ni/taranaki/taranaki-mt-egmont/summit-climbs-from-north-egmont", "name": "Summit climbs from North Egmont", "altitude": null, "access": "Approximately 12km south from New Plymouth on State Highway 3, at Egmont Village, turn south onto Egmont Road and follow the road to its end at North Egmont 940m (16km from Egmont Village).\nThe North Egmont Visitor Centre (NEVC) is well worth a visit with excellent permanent displays, up-to-date knowledge of the tracks and conditions and current weather reports. Maps, handbooks, hut tickets and intentions book are available, in addition to meals and drinks at Drinking Rock Caf\u00e9.", "description": "North Egmont is on the northeast side of the mountain.\nAccommodation\nThe Camphouse\nOperated by DoC and situated at the end of Egmont Road at an altitude of 960m, the Camphouse is a Class 1 historic building. It has 4 lockable bunkrooms with a total of 32 bunks and a fully equipped kitchen, hot and cold running water, showers and electric heating. Hut passes and tickets are not valid at The Camphouse and bookings can only be made at the North Egmont Visitor Centre.\nMaketawa Hut\nOperated by DoC and situated 1 hour, 30 minutes from North Egmont via the Ngatoro Walk, which starts below the Visitor Centre and then the Maketawa Track. Alternatively, follow the Translator/Summit track for 45 minutes to the base of \u2018The Puffer\u2019 (1200m). Descend Maketawa Track for 15 minutes to Maketawa Hut (1074m). The hut sleeps 16 and is equipped with water, gas heating and mattresses.\nTahurangi Lodge\nPrivately owned and operated by the Taranaki Alpine Club, Tahurangi, 1520m, is located at the end of the Translator/Summit Track. It is fully serviced with mains electric power, telephone (payphone cell phone, uses $1 and $2 coins), hot and cold running water, \ufb02ush toilets, fully equipped kitchen with microwave oven and all utensils are provided. Two bunkrooms sleep 26 with additional sleeping in the upstairs lounge. The Lodge is usually locked so bookings are essential and can be made via the Club.", "latlng": [ "-39.270869", "174.095192" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/ni/taranaki/taranaki-mt-egmont/summit-climbs-from-north-egmont/teds-alley", "name": "Teds Alley", "grade": "2", "topo_ref": "3.01", "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "2", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "Directly under the cliffs of East Ridge, Teds Alley narrows dramatically and terminates in a short near-vertical step at 2180m. Early winter is the best time to climb when the crux has received a suitable coating of ice. Late winter when the step is \ufb01lled in with snow drifts it can provide the more adventurous skier an exhilarating descent.\r\nTravel south from Tahurangi Lodge on a rising traverse commencing immediately above the Around the Mountain Circuit to Organ Pipes Valley. Climb the Organ Pipes Valley adjacent to the Eiger Wall taking the left hand exit gully and traverse south under the East Face and East Ridge at 2000m.\r\nContinue up and south into the steepening Teds Alley and stay close in under the bluff. At the crux a sheltered belay stance can be found on either side of the gut. An excellent 1-2 pitch route immediately under the bluffs gives access to the easier upper slopes and the crater rim at 2460m.\r\nDescent: Via the North Ridge route." } ], "quality": 1, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": null }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/ni/taranaki/taranaki-mt-egmont/summit-climbs-from-north-egmont/east-ridge-and-sharks-tooth", "name": "East Ridge and Sharks Tooth", "grade": "2+", "topo_ref": "3.02", "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "2+", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "East Ridge is an excellent summer or winter route and is easily discernible from the main highway descending due east from the Sharks Tooth. In summer it offers good rock under foot and in winter, excellent ice.\r\nTravel south from Tahurangi Lodge on a rising traverse commencing immediately above the Around the Mountain Circuit to Organ Pipes Valley. Climb the Organ Pipes Valley adjacent to the Eiger Wall taking the left hand exit gully and traverse south under the East Face to East Ridge at 2000m.\r\nOnce on the ridge, follow the crest with increasing exposure to an obvious change in grade (crux) at approximately 2200m.\r\nMaintain a close contact with the edge to increase the dif\ufb01culty of the climb or traverse to the north to less steep terrain. Continue climbing to the top of Sharks Tooth (2510m).\r\nDescend due north 60m along the ar\u00eate from Sharks Tooth to a \u2018chimney\u2019, marked by wire and old steel standards, back climb the chimney into the Crater. In winter the chimney may be blocked. If this is the case continue north along the ridge and by dropping down the east face for a few metres should reveal a small series of \u2018steps\u2019 onto the top of Surrey Road route.\r\nDescent: Down the easier North Ridge route.\r\n\u2021 During Winter: At the base of the crux, at 2200m, a short \ufb02attening of the ridge occurs and a small step in the bluff line is passable in winter. Traverse to the south and gain the easier slopes above the crux of Teds Alley. This alternative avoids the more icy conditions found at both cruxes but, does involve an airy traverse." } ], "quality": 1, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": null }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/ni/taranaki/taranaki-mt-egmont/summit-climbs-from-north-egmont/east-face-pleasant-valley", "name": "East Face - Pleasant Valley", "grade": "1+", "topo_ref": "3.03", "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "1+", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "Travel south from Tahurangi Lodge on a rising traverse commencing immediately above the Around the Mountain Circuit to Organ Pipes Valley. Climb the Organ Pipes Valley adjacent to the Eiger Wall taking the left hand exit gully and to lower East at 2000m.\r\nContinue up a shallow scoop to \ufb01nish on the crater rim at the chimney 2440m. Descend the chimney into the Crater. In winter the chimney may be blocked. If this is the case continue along the ridge and dropping down the east face for a few metres should reveal a small series of \u2018steps\u2019 onto the top of Surrey Road route.\r\nDescent: Normally down the easier North Ridge route." } ], "quality": 1, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": null }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/ni/taranaki/taranaki-mt-egmont/summit-climbs-from-north-egmont/surrey-road", "name": "Surrey Road", "grade": "1+", "topo_ref": "3.04", "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "1+", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "A classic and popular winter route usually climbed from Tahurangi Lodge.\r\nAscend a short steep slope directly above Tahurangi Lodge to a lone snow pole and continue climbing over undulating terrain to the base of Surrey Road ramp at 2200m. Ascend the steepening ramp to the crater. Descend directly into the crater.\r\nDescent: Back down Surrey Road or the easier North Ridge route." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": null }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/ni/taranaki/taranaki-mt-egmont/summit-climbs-from-north-egmont/blondies-traverse", "name": "Blondies Traverse", "grade": "2", "topo_ref": "3.05", "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "2", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "Start as for Surrey Road above and at the base of the ramp at 2200m, traverse north-west to the ramp directly below Surrey Road. Climb the ramp to the Lizard at 2350m and either connect with the North Ridge route or continue straight up to the crater rim (2420m). When at the crater rim travel south along the ridge to a low-point known as Surrey Road Entrance.\r\nDescent: Back down Surrey Road or the easier North Ridge route." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Named by John Jordan and Ted Thomson after Barbara Harkness, following a mid 1960s winter ascent by the group." }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/ni/taranaki/taranaki-mt-egmont/summit-climbs-from-north-egmont/north-ridge", "name": "North Ridge", "grade": "1-", "topo_ref": "3.06", "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "The North Ridge route is the most travelled and best-marked route to the summit. Poles at regular intervals mark the track above the numerous wooden steps exiting Hongis Valley. The NZ Mountain Safety Council has produced a video on the route for summer conditions which can be found here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sg5BAkJwvMg\r\n\r\nFrom Tahurangi Lodge at 1520m follow Hongis Valley and steps to gain North Ridge at 1700m. Continue up the ridge and over a small rocky outcrop. Follow the poles to a large rock to the northeastern side of the ridge. Drinking Rock at 1900m was once much larger but may have been broken by a rock-fall prior to 1949.\r\nSome snow poles and a worn zig-zag track generally mark the route above Drinking Rock to the Lizard Ridge (2200m). In summer climb the Lizard to Summer Entrance and the crater (2450m). In winter the Lizard can develop hard ice and the Summer Entrance becomes nearly impassable. An alternative \ufb01nish is to cross into Crater Valley at approximately 2300m and follow the valley into the crater.\r\nContinue into the crater and then climb west to the high point at 2518m.\r\nAlternatively start from North Egmont via the Holly Hut Track adjacent to Camphouse and pass by Ambury Monument after 50m. Continue up steps that lead to the base of the \u2018Razorback\u2019 ridge above Tahurangi Trig station at 1180m. Follow a well de\ufb01ned but, not maintained, steep track on top of the ridge to the Around the Mountain Circuit junction at 1480m. \r\nContinue directly up the ridge and traverse east onto moss slopes and gain the base of North Ridge at approx 1750m. Ascend the ridge and follow the poled route as above.\r\nDescent: Same as described above.\r\nTimes: North Egmont \u2013 Tahurangi Lodge 1hr, 15min. Tahurangi Lodge \u2013 Drinking Rock 1hr. Drinking Rock \u2013 Lizard 45min. Lizard \u2013 Summit 1 hr, 30min. Total: 4hr, 30min." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": null }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/ni/taranaki/taranaki-mt-egmont/summit-climbs-from-north-egmont/khyber-pass", "name": "Khyber Pass", "grade": "1", "topo_ref": "3.07", "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "1", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "This is a popular route with locals and those familiar with the mountain, it offers the quickest route to the summit.\r\nLeave North Egmont via the Holly Hut Track adjacent to Camphouse and pass by Ambury Monument after 50m. Continue up steps that lead to the base of the \u2018Razorback\u2019 ridge above Tahurangi Trig station at 1180m. Follow a well de\ufb01ned but, not maintained, steep track on top of the ridge to the Around the Mountain Circuit junction at 1480m. \r\nContinue directly up the ridge and then traverse west to gain the ridge immediately above the prominent rock pinnacle of Humphries Castle at 1600m. From this point the route tends to be a line of depressions and footmarks in moss and scree going in a south-west direction on the north \ufb02anks of the upper North Ridge.\r\nThe route follows above and below small buttresses and outcrops with increasing exposure to the Khyber Pass gully (S Gully and Ambury Bluffs) below.\r\nA steep clean lava \ufb02ow leads to the run-out of Crater Valley at approximately 2000m. The tail of the Lizard is to the east.\r\nIf the snow has receded from Crater Valley the climb up the smooth lava \ufb02ow is the best route, bearing more south to gain the Lizard at approximately 2300m as the lava \ufb02ow \u2018runs out\u2019.\r\nTraverse south onto the Lizard and follow the poled route to summit via the North Ridge route.\r\nAlternatively, traversing further west at around 2100m will provide access to the top of the Flounder and some excellent views down into the Kokowai Valley and Ahukawakawa Swamp. Follow the ridge all the way to the crater or climb west onto Heberley Ridge directly to the summit.\r\nWinter ascents generally follow Crater Valley directly to the crater at 2440m.\r\nDescent: Via the North Ridge route." } ], "quality": 1, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": null }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/ni/taranaki/taranaki-mt-egmont/summit-climbs-from-north-egmont/north-route", "name": "North Route", "grade": null, "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": "1000m", "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": "1000m", "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "Summit, Crater Valley, Snow Valley, Hongis Valley, Tahurangi Lodge. Ski time 30 minutes approx." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": null }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/ni/taranaki/taranaki-mt-egmont/summit-climbs-from-north-egmont/surrey-road-0", "name": "Surrey Road", "grade": null, "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": "1100m", "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": "1100m", "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "Summit, Crater, Surrey Road Ramp, Hidden Valley, Nose Gully, Organ Pipes Valley. vertical. Ski time 30 minutes approx." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": null }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/ni/taranaki/taranaki-mt-egmont/summit-climbs-from-north-egmont/pleasant-valley", "name": "Pleasant Valley", "grade": null, "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": "1100m", "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": "1100m", "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "Pleasant Valley, East Face, Organ Pipes Valley.\r\nSki time 40 minutes approx." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": null } ], "places": [], "image": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/wide/public/image/North%20Egmont.jpg?itok=etjCk8-y", "images": [ { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/wide/public/image/North%20Egmont.jpg?itok=etjCk8-y", "height": "671", "width": "900" } ] }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/ni/taranaki/taranaki-mt-egmont/summit-climbs-from-holly-hut", "name": "Summit climbs from Holly Hut", "altitude": null, "access": "Holly Hut is located on Holly \ufb02at and is nestled between the mountain, The Dome (1052m) and Ahukawakawa Swamp. Access is via the Holly Hut Track from North Egmont. Holly Hut can be very busy on a summer weekend as it is a favourite resting place for two major walking circuits.", "description": "Holly Hut is located on the north side of the mountain.\nAccommodation\nHolly Hut\nOperated by DoC and situated at 3-4 hours from North Egmont via the Razorback, which starts above the Camphouse and then the Holly Hut Track. Holly Hut (1000m) sleeps 38 and is equipped with water, a wood stove for heating, solar powered lighting and mattresses.", "latlng": [ "-39.265354", "174.047384" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/ni/taranaki/taranaki-mt-egmont/summit-climbs-from-holly-hut/minarapa-valley", "name": "Minarapa Valley", "grade": "1+", "topo_ref": "4.01", "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "1+", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "From Holly Hut travel back towards North Egmont on the Holly Hut Track to the second streambed, just short of the track junction to Ahukawakawa Swamp.\r\nFollow the Minarapa Stream bed and a waterfall at approximately 1350m can be passed by traversing the eastern slopes under the Cake. Climb up the valley, due south, continuing over steepening terrain and short cliff sections, at your choice. Pass just east of the Turtle nose at 2300m on loose ground and continue up the craggy Heberley Ridge to the summit at 2518m.\r\nDescent: Via Carrington Ridge route." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": null }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/ni/taranaki/taranaki-mt-egmont/summit-climbs-from-holly-hut/carrington-ridge", "name": "Carrington Ridge", "grade": "1", "topo_ref": "4.02", "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "1", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "Immediately behind Holly Hut, the overgrown route rises steeply up the Carrington Ridge to where the scrub gives way to tussock at around 1440m. Follow the ridge and scramble up the Hammer, 1829m. Pass just east of the Turtle nose at 2300m on loose ground and continue up the craggy Heberley Ridge to the summit at 2518m.\r\nDescent: Via Carrington Ridge route." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": null }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/ni/taranaki/taranaki-mt-egmont/summit-climbs-from-holly-hut/turtle-traverse", "name": "Turtle Traverse", "grade": "2", "topo_ref": "4.03", "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "2", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "Immediately behind Holly Hut, the overgrown track rises steeply up the Carrington Ridge to where the scrub gives way to tussock at around 1440m. Follow the ridge and climb up towards the Hammer to 1800m. Traverse under the Hammer and climb south-west to 2000m and to the base of the Turtle at 2000m.\r\nClimb the steep buttress and proceed along the exposed ar\u00eate of the Turtle to the nose at 2316m.\r\nBack climb or abseil the 10m off the nose and continue direct to the summit at 2518m via the craggy Heberley Ridge.\r\nDescent: Via Carrington Ridge route." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": null }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/ni/taranaki/taranaki-mt-egmont/summit-climbs-from-holly-hut/peters-stream", "name": "Peters Stream", "grade": "1+", "topo_ref": "4.04", "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "1+", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "From Holly Hut travel west along the Around the Mountain Circuit towards Kahui Hut and descend into the \ufb01rst stream valley at 900m. Follow the Peters Stream (the mountain branch of Stony River) under Hook Hill and proceed up the steepening valley. Pass just east of the Turtle nose at 2300m on loose ground and continue up the craggy Heberley Ridge to the summit at 2518m.\r\nDescent: Via Carrington Ridge route." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": null } ], "places": [], "image": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/wide/public/image/holly%20hut.jpg?itok=I9JEuTLW", "images": [ { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/wide/public/image/holly%20hut.jpg?itok=I9JEuTLW", "height": "671", "width": "900" } ] }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/ni/taranaki/taranaki-mt-egmont/summit-climbs-kahui-road", "name": "Summit climbs from Kahui Road", "altitude": null, "access": "If travelling north from Hawera, travel west along \u2018Surf Highway\u2019 State Highway 45 to Manaia, 15km and turn right onto Manaia Road. Follow Manaia Road to Kaponga, 14km, and turn left onto Eltham Road. After 10km turn right onto Oeo Road and at the next intersection, 2km take the second road from the left, Wiremu Road. Turn right onto Upper Kahui Road after 20km. Follow this road to the park boundary, 4.5km, approximately 66km from Hawera.\nWhen travelling south from New Plymouth, follow State Highway 45 to Okato, 26km. Drive straight ahead at the roundabout in the centre of Okato onto Old South Road and turn left onto Oxford Road. After 4km turn right onto Saunders Road and then onto Wiremu Road after a further 2km. Turn left onto Upper Kahui Road, after 9km. Follow this road to the park boundary, 4.5km, approximately 46km from New Plymouth.", "description": "Kahui Road is located on the western side of the mountain.\nAccommodation\nKahui Hut\nOperated by DoC and situated just below the bush line at an altitude of 880m, Kahui Hut has bunks for 6 people and water. Access from the end of Kahui Road at the park boundary requires a walk of approximately 2 hours. Kahui Hut offers the only accommodation for climbing on the west side of the mountain and affords excellent sunset views of the coast and the mountain.", "latlng": [ "-39.304749", "173.952198" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/ni/taranaki/taranaki-mt-egmont/summit-climbs-from-kahui-road/okahu-gorge", "name": "Okahu Gorge", "grade": "1", "topo_ref": "5.01", "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "1", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "From Kahui Hut the summit track starts just above the hut some 40-50m along the track to Holly Hut. Follow the summit track along a scrub-covered ridge to exit onto a large alpine meadow near Black Rock at 1200m. Continue up the moss slopes marked by occasional poles and rock cairns, towards the summit and follow the gorge to the summit. In summer conditions better footing is available to the north on a ridge above the gorge.\r\nDescent: Return down the gorge and track from Black Rock.\r\n\u2021 A pole on a col at the upper end of Turehu Hill at 1420m should be ignored as it does not mark the route to the summit. Route \ufb01nding on the descent is dif\ufb01cult when visibility is low. To \ufb01nd the track in these conditions it is easier to continue south across the meadow until the edge is reached and then follow the edge of the scrubline down and north until the track is located." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": null }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/ni/taranaki/taranaki-mt-egmont/summit-climbs-from-kahui-road/west-ridge-hughsons-ledge", "name": "West Ridge via Hughsons Ledge", "grade": "1+", "topo_ref": "5.02", "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "1+", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "From Kahui Hut descend Kahui Track for approximately 100m and then descend into the Okahu River. Follow the river to Maru on the north and Skeets Slide to the south, below the completely eroded Pakihere Pa.\r\nClimb the southern slopes to gain a long, narrow, sloping terrace, Hughsons Ledge, which breaks the main cliff of West Ridge at 1500m. Carefully negotiate a slip face near the top of the ledge and proceed up the slope to the shoulder of West Ridge at 2200m. A distinct point is formed at the junction of West and Bobs Ridges and from here one can descend into the Okahu Gorge and follow the valley to the crater or continue up the West Ridge. A short distance up from the base of the bluffs at 2300m a ledge provides an interesting access into the top of Okahu Gorge. The more adventurous can ascend the bluffs above. When topping out on the crater rim 2440m, continue towards Sharks Tooth to \ufb01nd a suitable descent into the crater.\r\nDescent: Return down the Okahu Gorge and track from Black Rock.\r\n\u2021 While the route description was the original route for access to Hughsons Ledge, it is far quicker to follow the Okahu Gorge route and traverse the moss slopes to ascend a gully adjacent to a spring at approximately 1730m." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": null } ], "places": [], "image": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/wide/public/image/kahui%20rd.jpg?itok=R5ahAeXB", "images": [ { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/wide/public/image/kahui%20rd.jpg?itok=R5ahAeXB", "height": "663", "width": "900" } ] }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/ni/taranaki/taranaki-mt-egmont/bobs-bluff", "name": "Bobs Bluff", "altitude": "1900m", "access": "The most distant of all the crags on the mounga from any of the road ends. The best approach is from Dawson Falls over Fanthams Peak/Rangitoto Flat.", "description": "The Nose, a magnificent crag in winter garb, wouldn\u2019t be out of place in the Cairngorms. As you approach from the Rangitoto Flat the 1km long Bobs Bluff faces you. The right end of this wall is marked by a broad funnel-shaped couloir, just left of that is a narrow gully, the line of Jalapeno. The left skyline gives the line of approach up the lower icefalls. The adventure potential elsewhere is obvious!", "latlng": [ "-39.304616", "174.052277" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/ni/taranaki/taranaki-mt-egmont/bobs-bluff/funnel-gully", "name": "Funnel Gully", "grade": "WI1", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": "WI1", "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "A straightforward, steep snow climb makes for a convenient descent after a route." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": null }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/ni/taranaki/taranaki-mt-egmont/bobs-bluff/jalapeno", "name": "Jalapeno", "grade": "WI5", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": "WI5", "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "So called since it\u2019s a spicy little number and was done with \u2018The Mexican\u2019 on the first ascent. The first (contrived) pitch ascends steep snow and easy ice to a poor rock belay at the start of the steep section. The gully is then followed over three successively easier steps to the top. May become much easier after very heavy snow." } ], "quality": 1, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Iain Young, T Viets and Alec Heilbron, July 1996." }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/ni/taranaki/taranaki-mt-egmont/bobs-bluff/nose-direct", "name": "Nose Direct", "grade": "WI4", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": "WI4", "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "This is a winter ascent of the summer route. A first pitch with a steep start was manufactured to steep icefalls on the lower bands, then two pitches lead up the crest and via a magnificent finishing groove to the top of the bluff. Good ice for climbing, but an appalling belay and stance at mid-height made for a psychologically demanding first ascent." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Iain Young, Greg Banks and S Miller, Aug. 1995." } ], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/ni/taranaki/taranaki-mt-egmont/minarapa-valley", "name": "Minarapa Valley", "altitude": "1900m", "access": "From Tahurangi Lodge follow the Summit Track to Drinking Rock then sidle over the Flounder to Minarapa Col a short distance above the Sawtooth. Descend into the valley.", "description": "The Minarapa Valley is an atmospheric and uncrowded spot in winter, with the best collection of reliable ice routes in easy reach of Tahurangi Lodge.\nAll climbing to date has been on the east side of the valley and up from Minarapa Col. A long line of cliffs form a number of major buttresses broken by gullies. The first buttress is split by a number of major grooves and crack lines, the most prominent of which takes the form of a large left-facing corner in its upper section with a line of ice spilling over overhanging rocks at its base. This forms the line of the following magnificent pitch.", "latlng": [ "-39.28728", "174.061031" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/ni/taranaki/taranaki-mt-egmont/minarapa-valley/underworld", "name": "Underworld", "grade": "WI5", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": "45m", "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": "WI5", "mixed": null, "length": "45m", "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "The direct entry to the groove wasn\u2019t formed on the occasion of the first ascent so the big corner was gained by steep grooves just to the right. The big corner was then followed on superb ice to an unstable exit. The name derives from the strong smell of sulphur, which was somehow wafting around in the blizzard during the climb!" } ], "quality": 1, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Iain Young and T Viets, Aug. 1996." }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/ni/taranaki/taranaki-mt-egmont/minarapa-valley/gully-1", "name": "Gully 1", "grade": "WI3", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": "WI3", "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "The obvious gully bounding the big buttress on its left. Can have big mushroom formations at its top." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Kevin Conaglen, Chris Prudden, M Davidson, late 70s." }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/ni/taranaki/taranaki-mt-egmont/minarapa-valley/malcontent", "name": "Malcontent", "grade": "WI4", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": "WI4", "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "The big buttress has an obvious line of grooves up its left arete, taken by Malcontent (could be the summer line of the Wright Route). Excellent mixed climbing with rock protection and a belay at the mid-height on a huge spike makes for an enjoyable and relatively safe outing." } ], "quality": 1, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Mark Hall and Greg Banks, Sept. 1995." }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/ni/taranaki/taranaki-mt-egmont/minarapa-valley/silver-screen", "name": "The Silver Screen", "grade": "WI4", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": "80m", "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": "WI4", "mixed": null, "length": "80m", "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "In the centre of the big buttress is an obvious continuous wide smear of ice. This forms the line of the climb (summer line of Summer Shadows), with a big spike belay at mid-height shared with Malcontent." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Iain Young and Alec Heilbron, Sept. 1995." }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/ni/taranaki/taranaki-mt-egmont/minarapa-valley/upper-gully", "name": "Upper Gully", "grade": "WI2", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": "WI2", "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "The gully bounding the big buttress on its uphill side." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Russell Braddock, Chris Prudden, Colin Wright, late 70s." }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/ni/taranaki/taranaki-mt-egmont/minarapa-valley/tv-block", "name": "TV Block", "grade": "WI4", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": "WI4", "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "To the right of the upper buttress. Look out for TV blocks." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Dave Bolger, Greg Larkin (solo) Sept. 1997" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/ni/taranaki/taranaki-mt-egmont/minarapa-valley/whakaropai", "name": "Whakaropai", "grade": "WI3", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": "WI3", "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "Follow the crest of the upper buttress in one or two pitches." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Gareth Sharp and S Parker, Oct. 1994." }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/ni/taranaki/taranaki-mt-egmont/minarapa-valley/headwall", "name": "Headwall", "grade": "WI3", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": "WI3", "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "The headwall of the Minarapa Valley can probably be climbed direct early or late in the season. However, for much of the time, it is covered in steep and unstable chandeliers of ice. (it catches the sun) In these conditions an enjoyable pitch can be had at about grade III up a short ramp groove system lower on the right side looking up." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Mark Hall and Iain Young, Sept. 1995." } ], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/ni/taranaki/taranaki-mt-egmont/turtle", "name": "Turtle", "altitude": "2200m", "access": "The descent is via the Nose on the uphill side, a short down-climb at about Scottish grade II. The crest can also be reached via steep snow from the north, but it is on the south side that the real action is.", "description": "The summit of the Turtle has been gained from all points of the compass, with the traverse giving a very fine alpine outing (2) in good conditions. It can be harder very early in the season.\nRumoured to have been climbed as early as the 1950s, when under snow and ice, only one climb has been recorded.", "latlng": [ "-39.292793", "174.060345" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/ni/taranaki/taranaki-mt-egmont/turtle/big-mal", "name": "Big Mal", "grade": "WI4", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": "55m", "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": "WI4", "mixed": null, "length": "55m", "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "As the base of the Turtle is descended on the south side, a prominent corner will be turned just before the slope steepens, about one third of the way down. Just before this point, an obvious groove and ramp system cuts up the face, which on the first ascent was free of the giant sastrugi build-up adorning the rest of the face. This gives an excellent 55m pitch to the crest, with the crux occurring as the groove is left to establish oneself on the wall above." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Mark Hall, Iain Young and Chris Prudden, Aug. 1995." } ], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/ni/taranaki/taranaki-mt-egmont/summit-area", "name": "Summit Area", "altitude": "2400m", "access": null, "description": "The summit area generally lacks cohesive ice conditions found elsewhere on the mountain. Nevertheless there are a number of good single pitches with safe belays.", "latlng": [ "-39.295982", "174.064722" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/ni/taranaki/taranaki-mt-egmont/summit-area/south-ridge", "name": "South Ridge", "grade": "WI2", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": "WI2", "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": null } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": "Follow the crater rim from the top of Ted\u2019s Alley to the summit of Sharks Tooth. Difficulties can be avoided by moving right, or gained by moving left.", "ascent": null }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/ni/taranaki/taranaki-mt-egmont/summit-area/10-second-gully", "name": "10 Second Gully", "grade": "WI3", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": "WI3", "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": null } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": "Follows the obvious shallow gully just left of Sharks Tooth south ridge.", "ascent": null }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/ni/taranaki/taranaki-mt-egmont/summit-area/crater-face", "name": "Crater Face", "grade": "WI3", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": "WI3", "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": null } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": "As viewed from the summit, the Crater Face on Sharks Tooth has two prominent groove lines leading up and right and up and left from a common start. The right hand route follows, surprise, surprise, the right hand groove and has a steep finish (4). The left hand is generally easier (3). The right hand line can also be finished by moving left from below the top corner.", "ascent": null }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/ni/taranaki/taranaki-mt-egmont/summit-area/west-face-summit-block", "name": "West Face of the Summit Block", "grade": "WI3", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": "WI3", "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": null } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": "A good pitch in a fine situation starting up an obvious left to right ramp then directly to the summit. Only one short, steep, step at the top of the initial ramp.", "ascent": null }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/ni/taranaki/taranaki-mt-egmont/summit-area/west-ridge-direct", "name": "West Ridge Direct", "grade": "WI3", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": "WI3", "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "Climb the steep step, on the West ridge in one pitch, generally up the grooves, heading up and right (or left) depending on conditions. Finish along the South Crater Rim and enjoy the situation!" } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": "The West Ridge forms a beautiful snow arete in its upper reaches and a narrow ice arete around the southern crater rim. Separating the two is a steep pitch, seldom climbed, which forms the crux of the West Ridge Direct.", "ascent": null } ], "places": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/ni/taranaki/taranaki-mt-egmont/summit-area/escudo-buttress", "name": "Escudo Buttress", "altitude": "2350m", "access": null, "description": "Between West Ridge and the top of the Okahu Gorge is a large triangular crag: Escudo Buttress, bounded on its left (looking up) by the obvious rib followed by Headbanger.", "latlng": [ "-39.296181", "174.062405" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/ni/taranaki/taranaki-mt-egmont/summit-area/escudo-buttress/headbanger", "name": "Headbanger", "grade": "WI5", "topo_ref": "2", "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": "WI5", "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "" } ], "quality": 1, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": "Follow the obvious rib heading from the Okahu Gorge to the start of the level section of the West Ridge/south crater rim in two pitches. The first contains a bulge at one-third height, the second is the crux. On the first ascent a groove was entered to the left after an attempt at a direct finish resulted in a large lump of falling ice and a broken hard-hat. The route can be walked off at half-height.", "ascent": "Iain Young, Gger Banks, Alec Heilbron, October 1996" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/ni/taranaki/taranaki-mt-egmont/summit-area/escudo-buttress/telephone-line", "name": "Telephone Line", "grade": "WI3", "topo_ref": "1", "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": "WI3", "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "" } ], "quality": 1, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": "While not the hardest ice line on Mt Taranaki it is certainly one of the longest and most atmospheric. Snow and ice stability on this north facing cliff are very fickle \u2013 best when conditions are lean. From the crater entrance to the Okahu Gorge, descend the gorge, close to West Ridge for about 70m. Iced grooves lead you to larger snow and ice ramps above, surmount the mid cliff to the left. Climb the next ramp, then follow a narrowing steep ramp that takes you left to Headbanger Ledge. The steep upper cliff can be climbed direct to the top of west ridge, or if not in condition, follow HB ledge into the crater.", "ascent": "Iain Young, Dave Bolger, Winter 1998" } ], "places": [], "image": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/wide/public/image/TN036%20copy.jpg?itok=Bd1smI5n", "images": [ { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/wide/public/image/TN036%20copy.jpg?itok=Bd1smI5n", "height": "850", "width": "535" } ] }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/ni/taranaki/taranaki-mt-egmont/summit-area/sisters-ridge", "name": "Sisters Ridge", "altitude": "2300m", "access": null, "description": "The Sisters area is a complex section of the mountain. Leading south from the summit is the upper portion of the Sisters Ridge, which spills into two subsidiary ribs further down. One of these, the steeper of the two, leads due west and ultimately merges with the West Face, the other leads directly down to the top of the Okahu Gorge. Both provide fine introductions to the traverse of the upper ice towers. South again, and separated from the Sisters Ridge by an easy snow gully (the Sisters Gully) lies an isolated block, which contains one short route, Noteworthy more for the exotic ice formations found on the first ascent, than for any particularly distinctive line.", "latlng": [ "-39.297244", "174.060001" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/ni/taranaki/taranaki-mt-egmont/summit-area/sisters-ridge/sisters-direct", "name": "Sisters Direct", "grade": "WI4", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": "WI4", "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "Ascend the west facing rib directly over one short bulge. Conditions are often poor." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": null }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/ni/taranaki/taranaki-mt-egmont/summit-area/sisters-ridge/seven-sisters", "name": "Seven Sisters", "grade": "WI3", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": "WI3", "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "Follow the rib from the top of the Okahu as directly as you can over each of the Sister. Difficulties are generally escapable on the Okahu side." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": null }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/ni/taranaki/taranaki-mt-egmont/summit-area/sisters-ridge/sisters-chimney", "name": "Sisters Chimney", "grade": "WI3", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": "WI3", "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "The chimney between the two ribs has been climbed on at least one occasion in winter, solo by the inimitable" } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Harry Gaastral." }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/ni/taranaki/taranaki-mt-egmont/summit-area/sisters-ridge/jeff-who", "name": "Jeff Who?", "grade": "WI4", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": "WI4", "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "Short and steep, the groove forms an excellent introduction to steep ground. Bridging removes much of the strain on the arms." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": "The steep wall overlooking the Sisters Gully is slit by a steep chimney\ngroove, which on the occasion of the first ascent was covered in beautiful\nfeathery ice formations, which forms the line of the following short route.", "ascent": "Iain Young (solo), Oct. 1996." }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/ni/taranaki/taranaki-mt-egmont/summit-area/sisters-ridge/lion-rampant", "name": "Lion Rampant", "grade": "WI4", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": "WI4", "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "Down and right of the last route is a short groove leading to an obvious ramp cutting right to left across the wall. Once established on the left edge of the buttress, from there break through the icicles to finish." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Iain Young, Alec Heilbron, July 1997." } ], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] } ], "image": null, "images": [] } ], "image": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/wide/public/image/TN091-2%20copy.jpg?itok=F4Ob3IoB", "images": [ { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/wide/public/image/TN091-2%20copy.jpg?itok=F4Ob3IoB", "height": "580", "width": "632" } ] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki/main-divide/sharks-teeth": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki/main-divide/sharks-teeth", "name": "Sharks Teeth", "altitude": "2518m", "access": null, "description": null, "latlng": [ "-43.70283376", "170.0254013" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki/main-divide/sharks-teeth/brunner-col", "name": "Via Brunner Col", "grade": "2", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "2", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "Ascend to Brunner Col via the route described under the Frind Route of Mt Sefton. Then follow the Main Divide." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Otto Frind, Conrad Kain, Dick Young, March 1914." } ], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aspiring/main-divide/mt-castor": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aspiring/main-divide/mt-castor", "name": "Mt Castor", "altitude": "2518m", "access": null, "description": "This fine, rarely climbed peak just to the north of Pollux offers better climbing than its neighbour.", "latlng": [ "-44.22113776", "168.88340699" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aspiring/main-divide/mt-castor/pickelhaube-glacier-route", "name": "Pickelhaube Glacier Route", "grade": "2,III", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": "0m", "pitches": [ { "alpine": "2", "commitment": "III", "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": null } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": "0", "natural_pro": false, "description": "Follow the Bluffs route on Pollux and traverse below Pollux to cross the col between Pollux and Helena into the Pickelhaube Glacier. From there the South West Face is straightforward. The first ascent was made via Chasm Pass.", "ascent": "C C Benzoni, L W Divers, R R Edwards, G L Edwards, D C Peters, March 1937" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aspiring/main-divide/mt-castor/east-ridge", "name": "East Ridge", "grade": "2+,III", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": "0m", "pitches": [ { "alpine": "2+", "commitment": "III", "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": null } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": "0", "natural_pro": false, "description": "From the top of the moraine wall between Lake Lucidus and the North Wilkin, pick a line through the bluffs to gain a shelf that leads out to the lower East Ridge. Follow the ridge to the summit.", "ascent": "Ian Baine, Graham McCallum, December 1963" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aspiring/main-divide/mt-castor/south-east-face", "name": "South East Face", "grade": "2+,III", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": "0m", "pitches": [ { "alpine": "2+", "commitment": "III", "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": null } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": "0", "natural_pro": false, "description": "Gain the glacier above Lake Lucidus via the Bluffs route on Pollux. The route follows a prominent rock rib which merges into the snow of the face proper.", "ascent": "Margaret Fyfe, Graham McCallum, January 1975" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aspiring/main-divide/mt-castor/pickelhaube-glacier-drake-river", "name": "Pickelhaube Glacier from the Drake River", "grade": "III,2", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": "III", "mtcook": "2", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "From the Drake River sidle up the valley draining the Pickelhaube Glacier, to above bushline. Cut left up a scrub and tussock rib to slabs under Pegasus and follow benches to the Pickelhaube Glacier. Choose a route to suit up the last steeper bit." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Matt Warwick & Geoff Spearpoint, Feb 1979." } ], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/main-divide-of-the-southern-alps/mt-victoire": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/main-divide-of-the-southern-alps/mt-victoire", "name": "Mt Victoire", "altitude": "2517m", "access": null, "description": "Has the Low Peak (2486m).", "latlng": [ "-43.4182251", "170.5196373" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/main-divide-of-the-southern-alps/mt-victoire/south-ridge", "name": "South Ridge", "grade": null, "topo_ref": "SR", "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "Ascend snow slopes to the north of White Pyramid from the Neish Plateau and climb the snow and rock ridge south of the peak." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "David Hall, Gordon (Snow) Mace, Nov 1935" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/main-divide-of-the-southern-alps/mt-victoire/neish-plateau", "name": "From Neish Plateau", "grade": null, "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "From an upper basin of the Neish Plateau, head up snow slopes to the col between the high\r\nand low peaks. The Low Peak is now accessible, but from here the high peak is somewhat more\r\ndifficult, on loose rock." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": null }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/main-divide-of-the-southern-alps/mt-victoire/ice-lake", "name": "From Ice Lake", "grade": "2-", "topo_ref": "IL", "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "2-", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "Up the Mawson Glacier to the Divide pass at 2250 metres, then continuing over White Pyramid\r\nand the South Ridge. This climb was done in good spring snow conditions as a three-day\r\nLabour Weekend trip from Wellington ; attempts en route to hop ice floes along the lake edge\r\nfailed, with a dunking for one party member." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "John Nankervis, Phil Grover, Phil Castle, Dean Stotter, Oct 1980" } ], "places": [], "image": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/wide/public/image/Victorie1_0.jpg?itok=SSUCfhBM", "images": [ { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/wide/public/image/Victorie1_0.jpg?itok=SSUCfhBM", "height": "900", "width": "637" } ] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki/liebig-range/the-ant-hill": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki/liebig-range/the-ant-hill", "name": "The Ant-hill", "altitude": "2517m", "access": null, "description": "tba", "latlng": [ "-43.541377", "170.436109" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki/liebig-range/the-ant-hill/unnamed", "name": "Unnamed", "grade": null, "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "From Armadillo Saddle climb scree and snow slopes to the north-east of the peak. \r\nSki touring option: From The Ant-hill ski north to the saddle south of spot height 2429m. Ski around the spur of this point on its eastern side to gain the glacier basin east of Mt Richmond. Then ascend towards Mt Acland and gain access to the Aida Glacier via the small notch at about 2400m. Alternatively, traverse the north ridge from Richmond." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Otto Frind, Conrad Kain, Mar 1914" } ], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aspiring/snowdrift-range/mt-lydia": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aspiring/snowdrift-range/mt-lydia", "name": "Mt Lydia", "altitude": "2517m", "access": null, "description": "Snowdrift Range", "latlng": [ "-44.46563888", "168.50644144" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aspiring/snowdrift-range/mt-lydia/whitbourn-glacier", "name": "From the Whitbourn Glacier", "grade": null, "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "From the head of the Whitbourn Glacier cross the Snowball Glacier via the col between Mt Alpha and The Snowman until a steep snow face gives access to the north summit ridge." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": null }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aspiring/snowdrift-range/mt-lydia/key-dome", "name": "From Key Dome", "grade": null, "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "From Key Dome follow round the base of Amundsen and ascend from the Ferrier Glacier or Boys Col." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": null } ], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/westland/john-pascoe-ridge/mt-tyndall": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/westland/john-pascoe-ridge/mt-tyndall", "name": "Mt Tyndall", "altitude": "2517m", "access": null, "description": "tba", "latlng": [ "-43.31855", "170.7247" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/westland/john-pascoe-ridge/mt-tyndall/garden-allah", "name": "From the Garden of Allah", "grade": "1+", "topo_ref": "GA", "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "1+", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "From about I35 252639, choose a route southeast up moderate snowslopes leading to the Main Divide a few hundred metres northeast of Mt Tyndall. Alternatively a longer, but easier, route approaches this same point from the Allah neve under Snowy Pk. Then cross easy snowslopes to a col west of Mt Tyndall. On southern slopes cross boulder scree then scramble up loose rock to the equally loose summit ridge, or alternatively follow moderate snowslopes part of the way slightly further east." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Ebenezer Teichelmann, Jack Clarke, Alec Graham, 6th Feb 1911" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/westland/john-pascoe-ridge/mt-tyndall/south-face", "name": "South Face.", "grade": "2", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "2", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "A diagonal snow climb from the Garden of Eden up crevassed snowslopes that vary considerably and are often cut off later in the season. There are some big slots up here. Reach the ridge between Newton and Tyndall from which both peaks are accessible." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "LK Wilson, HW Cormack, Dec 1933." } ], "places": [], "image": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/wide/public/image/P204_1.png?itok=zZSwvUJA", "images": [ { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/wide/public/image/P204_1.png?itok=zZSwvUJA", "height": "628", "width": "900" } ] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/%C5%8Dhau-landsborough/main-divide/mt-brewster": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/%C5%8Dhau-landsborough/main-divide/mt-brewster", "name": "Mt Brewster", "altitude": "2515m", "access": null, "description": null, "latlng": [ "-44.06526211", "169.44897431" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/%C5%8Dhau-landsborough/main-divide/mt-brewster/north-east-ridge", "name": "North East Ridge", "grade": "2+", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "2+", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": null } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": "A long approach via Long Flat Creek leads up to the Main Divide. Sidle along\nthe ridge turning problems on both left and right to reach a summit tower.\nClimb a chimney and loose blocks to gain the crest and the summit.", "ascent": "Bill Beaven, Ian Gibbs, Norman Hardie, John Harrison, Jock Montgomery, January 1966" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/%C5%8Dhau-landsborough/main-divide/mt-brewster/south-east-face", "name": "South East Face", "grade": "2+", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "2+", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": null } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": "The first ascent of this peak was completed from the upper reaches of the\nMakarora River. Modern climbers can cross the ridge from the Brewster Glacier\nand follow a gully onto the crest.", "ascent": "C.Bentham, Cyril Turner, Samuel Turner January 1929" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/%C5%8Dhau-landsborough/main-divide/mt-brewster/south-west-face", "name": "South West Face", "grade": "2+", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "2+", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": null } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": "From Brewster Hut sidle past Armstrong and Peak 2257 to reach the upper\nBrewster Glacier. Alternatively, from a camp on the Stey Brae ridge, traverse\nto the bottom of the face. A number of gully routes of moderate difficulty\nlead up to the crest. Move along the narrow summit ridge to the top. Descent\nis typically via a ridge and gully onto the south face, followed by a\ntraverse back onto the Brewster Glacier.", "ascent": "P.Berry, G.Crowley, Harry Dowall, V.Heine, R.G.Kulka, J.McKenzie, D.Scott and Colin Todd, October 1953" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/%C5%8Dhau-landsborough/main-divide/mt-brewster/west-ridge", "name": "West Ridge", "grade": "2", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "2", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": null } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": "Bush bash up Warden Spur and over Topheavy Peak then follow the broad ridge\nto the summit. The top section can be tricky when plastered with sastrugi.\nAlternatively, walk in via Brewster hut and traverse to glacier across rough\nground. Traverse in between 1750-1800m alt to avoid dangerous gully. 5.5 hrs.\nRoute across glacier and over triple pointed summit ridge 6 hrs return.", "ascent": "Mick Bowie, H.G.Courtney, 1934" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/%C5%8Dhau-landsborough/main-divide/mt-brewster/wills-valley", "name": "From the Wills Valley", "grade": "2", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "2", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": null } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": "Follow Fleming Creek and choose a route up either the east or west ridge.", "ascent": "Descended by Bill Beaven, Ian Gibbs, Norman Hardie, John Harrison, Jock Montgomery, January 1966" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/%C5%8Dhau-landsborough/main-divide/mt-brewster/north-island-detox", "name": "North Island Detox", "grade": "12,2+", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": "100m", "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "2+", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": "100m", "bolts": null, "trad": true, "ewbank": "12", "description": null } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": true, "description": "Walk west under the south west face until 50-100m from the south west ridge.\nA slab of compact rock exists on the right hand side of a buttress. Climb\nthis to the top of the ridge (grade 12, 2 pitches) and then scramble along\nthe ridge to the summit. A much better route in mid summer than the choss\nfest on the south west face.", "ascent": "Rob Addis, Chris Peacock 2010" } ], "places": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/c58dhau-landsborough/main-divide/mt-brewster/north-face", "name": "North Face", "altitude": "1900m", "access": "Approach up the Wills Valley up the track to the lower flats, the follow spurs in open bush on the true left of Fleming Creek (plentiful water in bush sidecreeks). Easy subalpine travel leads to the base of the North Face, where moderate angle snowfields/patches linger into summer. 5-8 hours from the car, or 3-4 hours from Wills Hut.\nDescent: The obvious descent is via the West Ridge, brewster Glacier and the Brewster Hut track, making a nice loop. Descending to the cols either side of .2038 before moving onto snow and the glacier keep snow travel to low angle, and may allow crampon-less descent in warm conditions, at least from midsummer when the ridge is dry rock. However, ice axes are wise in case of snowfields/patchs at the base of the north face, and on the upper face.", "description": "The quiet sunny side of Brewster culminates in a 500-700m summit massif, offering at least three aesthetic ribs of moderate alpine rockclimbing on good schist, dissected by a large snow couloir (Summer rockfall funnel) and narrower gullies. However, in a case of 'play now-pay later', the steep ribs are topped by lower angled ground comprised of large blocks. Though blocks are more locked in than they appear looks and the movement is not difficult, care must be taken in both route and hold choice when scrambling the upper face to avoid loose blocks and natural rockfall zones. The ribs are generally prominent enough to avoid natural rockfall, and early summer may be ideal to top out via snow travel rather than loose blocks.", "latlng": [ "-44.060496", "169.451065" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/c58dhau-landsborough/main-divide/mt-brewster/north-face/central-rib", "name": "Central Rib", "grade": "16,4,III", "topo_ref": "CR", "image": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/2024-01/NF%20Brewster.png?itok=lpj7f0IY", "images": [ { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/2024-01/NF%20Brewster.png?itok=lpj7f0IY", "height": "201", "width": "325" }, { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/2024-01/20240116_094339%20-%20Copy.jpg?itok=tdnwdbAV", "height": "244", "width": "325" }, { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/2024-01/20240117_104746.jpg?itok=LkTc9QUU", "height": "244", "width": "325" }, { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/2024-01/20240117_105252.jpg?itok=G-79b0kg", "height": "244", "width": "325" }, { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/2024-01/20240117_114849.jpg?itok=5CCrblWj", "height": "244", "width": "325" }, { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/2024-01/20240117_123732.jpg?itok=kxYAGVac", "height": "244", "width": "325" }, { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/2024-01/20240117_125317.jpg?itok=wP2Ser5X", "height": "244", "width": "325" }, { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/2024-01/20240117_132111.jpg?itok=XHRwk92t", "height": "244", "width": "325" }, { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/2024-01/20240117_133957.jpg?itok=F5rh99bn", "height": "244", "width": "325" }, { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/2024-01/20240117_134959.jpg?itok=KO7vgLyL", "height": "244", "width": "325" }, { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/2024-01/20240117_140720.jpg?itok=jMXXcrmc", "height": "244", "width": "325" }, { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/2024-01/20240117_150012.jpg?itok=vLRvvu3z", "height": "244", "width": "325" }, { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/2024-01/20240117_162130.jpg?itok=ysZ_bnjK", "height": "244", "width": "325" } ], "length": "350m", "pitches": [ { "alpine": "4", "commitment": "III", "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": "350m", "bolts": null, "trad": true, "ewbank": "16", "description": null } ], "quality": 1, "bolts": "0", "natural_pro": true, "description": "Good climbing up a surprisingly sharp & narrow arete. The rib is the first one left (East) of the main couloir splitting the face, offering about 350m of rockclimbing (mostly grade 8-14, with grade 16 cruxes). This is followed by 300 vertical meters of snow or choss scrambling to the summit.\nTo Start: Cross a moderate angled snowslope guarding the base of the buttress. On the left side at the toe of the rib proper, pick any start that appeals, making your way to a ledge 20m off the deck, above small rooflets and at the base of a broken corner system. (The first ascent started up the wide crack in the large black left-facing corner, right of the crest, but angled left due to lack of large cams. A single #3 would do the trick.). Generally, follow the rib thereafter, but often in corners or ramps on either side as dictated by the terrain. Two steeper towers near the top are turned by thin face traverses and corners on the left. On the first ascent, much of the terrain proved suitable for simul-climbing (with microtraxions) with the odd pitch. The schist is sometimes sharp but two ropes could be painful due to the lower angle of the terrain, and varied difficulty. Protection is good throughout for climbers solid at the grade. No water.\nIn detail: Once on the ledge 20m up at the base of the the broken corner that runs up the center of the rib, climb a short finger/hand crack in a left-facing corner (16) and on up the corner/gully. About 30m up, move into corners on the left of the rib. Caution loose blocks on these initial sections. These corners lead back to the rib. Cross it (sharp flakes) and climb easy, steppy ground on better rock on the right side for some way. Eventually, an imposing dark tower is reached. Face traverse left 7m (sparse holds/pro) towards a big corner, but before reaching it go steeply up a narrow right-facing corner (16, beautiful crack climbing), which becomes a double crack for the last 5m back onto the rib. Then along the crest on memorable holds and intermittent cracks on clean orange rock until a second/final tower. Move left again - thin (16), but into an easy corner - and on up to reach a flat area and lower angled, loose ground to the summit block. Most parties will travel this ground unroped. Take care to avoid pulling on loose holds or entering rockfall zones when weaving up the upper face. The rock is less dangerous than it looks, yet not safe. Early season, this may be mainly snow travel.\nAn opportunity also exists to start up the clean 'toe' of red schist on climbers right then climb clean face to join the rib near the top.", "ascent": "Keith Riley, Ruari Macfarlane, January 2024" } ], "places": [], "image": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/wide/public/2024-01/20240116_094339.jpg?itok=fTZ30H83", "images": [ { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/wide/public/2024-01/20240116_094339.jpg?itok=fTZ30H83", "height": "818", "width": "1090" }, { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/wide/public/2024-01/20240116_232610.jpg?itok=da7RSCZh", "height": "818", "width": "1090" }, { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/wide/public/2024-01/20240116_095001.jpg?itok=xtatW3Xk", "height": "818", "width": "1090" } ] }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/%C5%8Dhau-landsborough/main-divide/mt-brewster/brewery", "name": "The Brewery", "altitude": "2180m", "access": "The Brewster Hut track offers the easiest access to the crag.", "description": "The Brewery is a south facing headwall about halfway up the southwest ridge (neighboring the prominent serac visible from Brewster Hut). The wall offers single pitch ice/mixed routes consisting of thinly iced corners offering the occasional dubious ice screw with scattered rock pro. First impressions suggest the rock quality is best on the left side of the wall while the ice quality is best on the right side of the wall, with a good mix of both elements in the middle. Slung rocks from the tops of TFP and SG offer abseil anchors. There is much potential for new routes.", "latlng": null, "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/%C5%8Dhau-landsborough/main-divide/mt-brewster/brewery/first-pint", "name": "The First Pint", "grade": "M3", "topo_ref": "TFP", "image": null, "images": [], "length": "40m", "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": "M3", "length": "40m", "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": null } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": "Leftward moves over rime covered grooves leads to a more moderate ice ramp. Exit left (on topo) to a good natural anchor or traverse under the roof to hook your way to the groove just to the right of the gendarme.", "ascent": "Josh Laidlaw, Cameron Jardell, Aug 2020." }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/%C5%8Dhau-landsborough/main-divide/mt-brewster/brewery/specific-gravity", "name": "Specific Gravity", "grade": "WI4", "topo_ref": "SG", "image": null, "images": [], "length": "50m", "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": "WI4", "mixed": null, "length": "50m", "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": null } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": "Climb directly up the iced corner. Some rock pro on the right. Sustained and thinnest before the top out.", "ascent": "Cameron Jardell, Josh Laidlaw, Aug 2020." }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/%C5%8Dhau-landsborough/main-divide/mt-brewster/brewery/malty-brewin", "name": "Malty Brewin", "grade": "WI3", "topo_ref": "MB", "image": null, "images": [], "length": "60m", "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": "WI3", "mixed": null, "length": "60m", "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": null } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": "A relatively wide ice line broken by moderate ramps. There is little rock pro so if the ice doesn't hold screws... climb faster.", "ascent": "Cameron Jardell, Josh Laidlaw, Aug 2020." } ], "places": [], "image": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/wide/public/image/Screen%20Shot%202020-09-14%20at%209.29.48%20PM.png?itok=Zw4X6wxc", "images": [ { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/wide/public/image/Screen%20Shot%202020-09-14%20at%209.29.48%20PM.png?itok=Zw4X6wxc", "height": "701", "width": "1090" } ] } ], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki/franz-josef-glacier-k%C4%81-roimata-hinehukatere/drummond-pk": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki/franz-josef-glacier-k%C4%81-roimata-hinehukatere/drummond-pk", "name": "Drummond Pk", "altitude": "2514m", "access": null, "description": null, "latlng": [ "-43.47227", "170.253766" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki/franz-josef-glacier-k%C4%81-roimata-hinehukatere/drummond-pk/south-west-flank", "name": "South West Flank", "grade": "2,II", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": "2", "commitment": "II", "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "A straightforward climb from Centennial Hut . The glacier ramp east of the Newton Rocks and St Mildred Peak enables access to the west ridge. A final 30m rock headwall before the summit needs to be negotiated. Stunning views of many Main Divide peaks, including the Spencer Face of Elie de Beaumont, can be enjoyed from the summit. In winter, this is an excellent half-day jaunt on skis." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Alex Graham, Miss Marsden, March 1916" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki/franz-josef-glacier-k%C4%81-roimata-hinehukatere/drummond-pk/drummond-ridge", "name": "Drummond Ridge", "grade": null, "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": "There is no record of a complete ascent of Drummond Ridge, which rises from the junction of the Spencer and Callery valleys. The lower part of the ridge has been used as part of a route from Almer Hut via the Baird Range to Spencer Rock.", "ascent": null } ], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki/sealy-range/mt-darby": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki/sealy-range/mt-darby", "name": "Mt Darby", "altitude": "2513m", "access": null, "description": "Sealy Ra", "latlng": [ "-43.76359742", "170.0159178" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki/sealy-range/mt-darby/east-flank", "name": "East Flank", "grade": "1", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "1", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "This ridge can be reached at almost any point. A route to Barron Saddle\r\nexists round the foot of the ridge via a shingle ledge 250m above the Mueller Glacier. (Be careful in winter though!)" } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Freda Du Faur, Peter Graham, Nov 1910." }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki/sealy-range/mt-darby/barron-saddle", "name": "From Barron Saddle", "grade": "1+", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "1+", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "Via the Williams Glacier ascend the North West or West Ridges, or a rib up the middle of the West Flank." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Tom Fyfe, George Graham, 1894." }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki/sealy-range/mt-darby/north-west-ridge", "name": "North West Ridge", "grade": "1", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "1", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": null } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Conrad Kain, Otto Frind, Feb 1914." }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki/sealy-range/mt-darby/west-rib", "name": "West Rib", "grade": "2", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "2", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": null } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Mike Andrews, Kevin Conaglen, Jan 1977." }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki/sealy-range/mt-darby/bengal", "name": "Bengal", "grade": "12,4-", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "4-", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": true, "ewbank": "12", "description": null } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": true, "description": "Access to the south face of Mt Darby is easy, descend from Barron Saddle,\nthen follow a gully up to the snow slopes beneath the face. Bengal is a 300m\nrock route at grade 12 which begins in the centre of the face on the right\nhand side of the black gully, crosses left through the gully to gain the left\ntending corner. Follow the broad ramp which leads to the summit.", "ascent": "Bill McLeod, March 1995" } ], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/main-divide-of-the-southern-alps/malcolm-pk": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/main-divide-of-the-southern-alps/malcolm-pk", "name": "Malcolm Pk", "altitude": "2512m", "access": "Descent Route. North off the peak back to the Malcolm Glacier.", "description": "Southern Alps Ka Tiritiri O Te Moana", "latlng": [ "-43.29977938", "170.81696554" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/main-divide-of-the-southern-alps/malcolm-pk/north-west-face", "name": "North West Face", "grade": "14,3", "topo_ref": "NWF", "image": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/route/004_0.jpg?itok=BmK-CsA0", "images": [ { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/route/004_0.jpg?itok=BmK-CsA0", "height": "255", "width": "325" } ], "length": "500m", "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "3", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": "500m", "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": "14", "description": "This climb was inspired by photographs taken by Ebenezer Teichelmann in 1911. Best\r\napproached from Heim Plateau, via the col between Malcolm and Hidden Peaks that leads\r\ndown to the Malcolm Glacier. A more difficult approach exists via Rangitata Col and the col\r\nwest of Malcolm Peak, descending snow gullies and rock to the remains of Malcolm Glacier.\r\nThe 500-metre climb is on good rock slabs with a crack providing the crux." } ], "quality": 1, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Guy McKinnon March 2006" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/main-divide-of-the-southern-alps/malcolm-pk/south-west-ridge", "name": "South West Ridge", "grade": "2", "topo_ref": "SW", "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "2", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "From Rangitata Col continue along the Divide, eventually reaching the rocky buttresses of the\r\nSouth West Ridge. The climbing is straightforward on good rock." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Andy Anderson, Bruce Turner, Jack Hayes (descended), February 1934" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/main-divide-of-the-southern-alps/malcolm-pk/west-ridge", "name": "West Ridge", "grade": "2-", "topo_ref": "WR", "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "2-", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "From Lambert Col via the upper Frances Glacier and Main Divide\r\nTo avoid the gut directly below Lambert Col, sidle south onto a snow shoulder then sidle northeast back to the Frances Glacier. At 2000m, a significant crevasse can be challenging to cross. Continue up to Malcolm Col then SE, where there are smaller crevasses to the Main Divide under pt 2283m. Follow the Divide along with some easy rockclimbing involved near pt 2276m. From a patch of gravel low on the SW ridge, climb diagonally across the western face towards the NW arete. An easy walk on the ridge completes the climb." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Ebenezer Teichelmann, Peter Graham, Jack Clarke (from the Lord River), February 1911" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/main-divide-of-the-southern-alps/malcolm-pk/north-spur", "name": "North Spur", "grade": "1+", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "1+", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "Ascend snowslopes under Hidden Peak to the col south of pt 2248m. There are various rock climbing possibilities on reasonably good greywacke up a headwall to reach the North arete. The easiest approach is to access the shallow gully at J35 329656 between two minor ribs and follow that up. Sometimes there are snow patches in this gully and sometimes it is bare rock. The north arete is then an easy scramble to the top" } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": null }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/main-divide-of-the-southern-alps/malcolm-pk/north-east-ridge", "name": "North East Ridge", "grade": "2", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "2", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "From Heim Plateau, cross to the head of the Malcolm Glacier. Traverse round to a small glacier\r\ndraining the North East Ridge. Climb the glacier and follow the ridge to the summit." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "H W (Sandy) Cormack, Lloyd Wilson, January 1933" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/main-divide-of-the-southern-alps/malcolm-pk/east-buttress", "name": "East Buttress", "grade": null, "topo_ref": "EB", "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "From Heim Plateau, traverse south-west to meet the foot of the East Buttress. Climb steep rock\r\nand a snow ar\u00eate to the summit." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Stan Conway, Alan Barnes, Syd Brookes, September 1937" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/main-divide-of-the-southern-alps/malcolm-pk/south-east-rib", "name": "South East Rib", "grade": "2", "topo_ref": "SE", "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "2", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "This route is immediately south of the East Buttress and is reached via a traverse from McCoy\r\nCol to the col linking the glacier basin at the head of the Lyell Glacier with Heim Plateau. At\r\nthe start of the route, bypass a 15-metre buttress via a steep gully on the left, and head diagonally\r\nacross to a well-defined rib which tops the buttress. Follow the rib on loose rock to the summit\r\nridge and eventually join the East Buttress route from Heim Plateau." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Ambrose Banfield, Arthur Lees, Bruce Banfield, December 1939" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/main-divide-of-the-southern-alps/malcolm-pk/east-face", "name": "East Face", "grade": "1", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": "1", "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "From the Heim Plateau, climb a steep snow face to join the East Buttress just below the summit. Snowboard descents." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Ryan Nicol, Yossi Jagger Nov 2015" } ], "places": [], "image": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/wide/public/image/Malcom.png?itok=COpuIUSh", "images": [ { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/wide/public/image/Malcom.png?itok=COpuIUSh", "height": "774", "width": "900" }, { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/image/Malcom%20Pk_0.png?itok=eBbplcsa", "height": "228", "width": "325" } ] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki/balfour-range/kupe": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki/balfour-range/kupe", "name": "Kupe", "altitude": "2510m", "access": null, "description": "A distinctive peak with a 600m triangular north face visible from Katies Col. Kupe was first climbed (by accident) by the Wopereis brothers in 1980 during a traverse from Drake to Vanguard. The peak was not visited again until Bryan Moore and others added three new routes to the North Face in 1992 and named the peak Kupe, in keeping with the explorer theme of the area. Access to Kupe is not easy. Options include travelling up the Cook and Balfour valley systems or arriving from the lower Fox Glacier via the Paschendale range. It appears that more new route potential exists.", "latlng": [ "-43.56903", "170.130092" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki/balfour-range/kupe/captain-incredible-naked-dancing-girls", "name": "Captain Incredible & The Naked Dancing Girls", "grade": "16,5+", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": "0m", "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "5+", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": "16", "description": "From the avalanche cone on the left of the face, gain the edge of the headwall and continue to the summit (crux 16). Descend by abseiling the route." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": "0", "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Bryan Moore, Tony Ward-Holmes, Eric Bradshaw, Dec 1992." }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki/balfour-range/kupe/kupe-direct", "name": "Kupe Direct", "grade": "19,6", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "6", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": "19", "description": "This is the central line on the headwall. Balancy climbing on solid red greywacke leads to an overhang (crux 19) two pitches below the summit. Descend by rappelling the route." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Bryan Moore, Tony Ward-Holmes, Eric Bradshaw, Dec 1992." }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki/balfour-range/kupe/sinusoidal-ridge", "name": "The Sinusoidal Ridge", "grade": "16", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": "16", "description": "Takes the right hand ridgeline to a gendarme at 2/3rd height where it joints the headwall. An abseil is needed to pass the gendarme. The climb was abandoned somewhere on the headwall due to a difficulty that couldn\u2019t be passed. The climb remains uncompleted. A crux of 16 was encountered before the headwall." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Bryan Moore, Tony Ward-Holmes, Eric Bradshaw, Dec 1992." } ], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/canterbury/two-thumb-range/alma": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/canterbury/two-thumb-range/alma", "name": "Alma", "altitude": "2510m", "access": null, "description": "tba", "latlng": [ "-43.55466117", "170.72730208" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/canterbury/two-thumb-range/alma/south-ridge", "name": "South Ridge", "grade": "2-", "topo_ref": "SR", "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "2-", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "Follow Trojan Stream or Alma Stream, directly to Alma Col and climb loose rock straight up from the col. A\r\nbluff near the start of the route can be bypassed by a short, exposed traverse on a narrow ledge\r\nwest of the ridge, or a rising traverse on loose rock on the east side. Either may require a rope.\r\nThe south-west face can be used in good snow conditions." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Jack Pattle, Frank Askin, George Armstrong, October 1937" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/canterbury/two-thumb-range/alma/east-face", "name": "East Face", "grade": "2+", "topo_ref": "EF", "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "2+", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "From the head of Alma Stream follow a snow gully directly to the summit. Not often in condition." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": null }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/canterbury/two-thumb-range/alma/north-east-ridge", "name": "North East Ridge", "grade": "1+", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "1+", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "From Alma Stream climb to a prominent col on Alma Spur at 2100 metres, west of Pt 2205\r\nmetres. Drop into the valley to the north to avoid gendarmes, then regain the ridge and follow\r\nsmall scree and rock ledges to the summit" } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Harold (Ned) Porter, Hugh Chambers, Clive Barker, December 1923" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/canterbury/two-thumb-range/alma/north-face", "name": "North Face", "grade": null, "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "From Balaclava Basins at the head of The Growler follow a prominent east-trending gut leading\r\nthrough the bluffs to join the North Ridge shortly below the summit." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "D Gawith, D Wareham, April 1943" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/canterbury/two-thumb-range/alma/west-ridge", "name": "West Ridge", "grade": null, "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "From Balaclava Basins at the head of The Growler, take a steep couloir leading to a col on the\r\nWest Ridge and follow steep but straightforward rock to the summit." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Bill Beaven, Ed Cotter, Robin Johnson, Mike Nelson, W Hunt, John Morris, April 1949" } ], "places": [], "image": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/wide/public/image/Alma.png?itok=YoSkkSZa", "images": [ { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/wide/public/image/Alma.png?itok=YoSkkSZa", "height": "566", "width": "900" } ] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/headlong-peak": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/headlong-peak", "name": "Mt Tewha", "altitude": "2510m", "access": null, "description": null, "latlng": [ "-44.53947405", "168.59783199" ], "routes": [], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki/liebig-range/mt-richmond": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki/liebig-range/mt-richmond", "name": "Mt Richmond", "altitude": "2509m", "access": null, "description": "tba", "latlng": [ "-43.52943", "170.431818" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki/liebig-range/mt-richmond/unnamed", "name": "Unnamed", "grade": null, "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "From the saddle east of Coopers Mate climb rock slabs on the west face to the summit. Alternatively, traverse from Acland." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Otto Frind, Conrad Kain, Mar 1914" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki/liebig-range/mt-richmond/north-west-face", "name": "North West Face", "grade": null, "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "From the Aida Glacier climb rock bands and snow slopes to the summit." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "R Coombs, J Wild, Dec 1968" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki/liebig-range/mt-richmond/south-west-face", "name": "South West Face", "grade": null, "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "Use the saddle as for unnamed route and drop into the Harper Glacier. Then ascend the face." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "C Morris, W Provan, M Clark, Dec 1980" } ], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki/malte-brun-range/rose-pk": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki/malte-brun-range/rose-pk", "name": "Rose Pk", "altitude": "2508m", "access": null, "description": "Malte Brun Range", "latlng": [ "-43.54647852", "170.35590503" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki/malte-brun-range/rose-pk/unnamed", "name": "Unnamed", "grade": "2-", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "2-", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "Climbed easily via the lower Dixon Glacier and a slope leading onto the South East Ridge. Gives access to Mt Haeckel." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "R M Crockett, W G McClymont, F F Simmons, Dec 1934" } ], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/otago/huxley-range/mt-huxley": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/otago/huxley-range/mt-huxley", "name": "Mt Huxley", "altitude": "2505m", "access": null, "description": "The 800m high south face of Mt Huxley presents an imposing sight and was not climbed until 1990. The completion of three new lines on the south face during 1990-93 may attract more attention to the mountain. Mt Huxley has now been climbed from all sides with starting points in the Ahuriri, Hunter, Huxley, and Temple Valleys.\nThe west face of Mt Huxley is secluded, but once in view it is obvious that the central section is fine rock. The rock is unblemished and of a character that allows even the steeper sections to be climbed with abandon.\nThe valley was quite enchanting with its blanket of snow, patches of beech forest, and the river with its amazingly clear pools. The mountains are moderately glaciated, offering good training climbs, but also good technical routes up steep rock faces or sharp rock ridges. Mt Huxley rises sheer from the end of the valley, a 2000' rock face, most impressive. There's a challenge for the boys.\nNicholas Shearer, OUTC Antics, 1981.", "latlng": [ "-44.07123647", "169.67850455" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/otago/huxley-range/mt-huxley/north-east-face", "name": "North East Face", "grade": "3-", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "3-", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": null } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": "The north east face of Mt Huxley is an extensive snowfield. Access to the\nslopes is limited by the presence of some moderate angled bluffs. From the\nupper South Huxley Valley a rock rib gives steep access through the middle of\nthe bluffs to the upper slopes and the summit.\nThe first ascent party departed in time-honoured style from the Oamaru pie\ncart, carried 5 foot skis for a day and a half up valley through beech forest\nand up an interesting bluff, for a 600m altitude gain across the top\nsnowslopes, and a careful ski descent back to the bluffs.", "ascent": "Scott Gilkison, Roland Rodda, Harry Stevenson, Rod Williams, Max Willis October 1939" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/otago/huxley-range/mt-huxley/north-east-ramp", "name": "North East Ramp", "grade": "3-", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "3-", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": null } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": "A variation on 4.29 is to follow a ramp on the eastern side of the bluffs\nuntil near the east ridge, climb through the bluffs and rejoin the original\nascent route.", "ascent": "Peter Barker, John Chivers, Bob Cunningham twice, on consecutive days December 1959" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/otago/huxley-range/mt-huxley/east-slope", "name": "East Slope", "grade": "2+", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "2+", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": null } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": "From the Ahuriri - Huxley Col traverse toward the mountain on the slopes just\nnorth of the east ridge, maintaining altitude as much as possible. One short\nbluffy section has to be surmounted to gain access to the upper slopes and\nthe short summit pyramid.", "ascent": "First ascent unknown" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/otago/huxley-range/mt-huxley/south-ramp", "name": "South Ramp", "grade": "3-", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "3-", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": null } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": "Pick your way through the icefall on the right hand side of the south face\nand climb the snow ramp and broken rock to reach the east ridge to the right\nof the East Peak.", "ascent": "Eric Feasy, Syd Woods, June 1979" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/otago/huxley-range/mt-huxley/south-face", "name": "South Face", "grade": "3", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "3", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": null } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": "Follow the hanging glacier in the centre of the face, then up a couloir which\nis mostly hidden from view in the valley, up the right central portion of the\nface to near the East Peak, 800m from the main summit. A heavily crevassed\nsection at mid-height presents the major difficulty on the route.", "ascent": "John Graham, Nicholas Shearer, February 1993" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/otago/huxley-range/mt-huxley/vein", "name": "Vein", "grade": "5+,V", "topo_ref": null, "image": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/routes/EB_huxley.jpg?itok=Dx1i0EqT", "images": [ { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/routes/EB_huxley.jpg?itok=Dx1i0EqT", "height": "220", "width": "204" } ], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": "5+", "commitment": "V", "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": null } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": "A mainly mixed route apart from the first 3-4 pitches which is steep ice. Start at the toe of the south spur up a narrow gully of steep ice for two pitches then take a gully to the left which leads on to the south spur proper. The crux two pitches are at the top, finishing just east of the summit. Ten pitches of grade 4-5 ice. The first ascent party took 17 hours for the complete climb.\nErik Bradshaw climbed a variation on this route in summer conditions with a full tramping pack in two and a half hours. Good positive rock all the way interspersed with gravel ledges.", "ascent": "Al Uren, Phil Penney, Glen Einam October 1990" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/otago/huxley-range/mt-huxley/anzac", "name": "ANZAC", "grade": "5,V,4", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": "5", "commitment": "V", "mtcook": "4", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": null } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": "Begin on the left side of the large snowfield in the middle of the face and angle up left to meet the centre of the south spur at around 2200m where the route joins The Vein to the summit.", "ascent": "Nick Brown, Don French, Rob McBrearty, Brian Smith, March 1991" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/otago/huxley-range/mt-huxley/oma-r%C4%81peti", "name": "Oma R\u0101peti", "grade": "17,4+", "topo_ref": null, "image": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/route/route2_0.jpg?itok=RHpPAZx_", "images": [ { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/route/route2_0.jpg?itok=RHpPAZx_", "height": "244", "width": "325" }, { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/route/P1110590.JPG?itok=2F_IibfK", "height": "244", "width": "325" } ], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "4+", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": "17", "description": "Takes rib to left of 42nd St on West face, mostly on crest of rib on excellent rock. Aim for hanging slab on left side of pinnacle on top." } ], "quality": 2, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": "Accessed on left side of pinnacle, between pinnacle and glacier. Climb rib above glacier, to left of 42 St. Climb left angling crack to crest of rib, then follow crest. 4 pitches to easier ground. Continue up rib to left of hanging snow patch. Traverse left to gain crest of pinnacle, before swinging onto slab on left side of pinnacle. Finish up amazing splitter cracks to summit ridge.", "ascent": "Steven Fortune and Kieran Parsons, March 2016" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/otago/huxley-range/mt-huxley/42nd-street", "name": "42nd Street", "grade": "4+", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "4+", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": null } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": "A rock pinnacle stands at the bottom centre of the 600m high west face. The\nsmall col between face and pinnacle is reached by a snow couloir and is the\nstarting point of the route. Once established on the face, gain the rib that\nruns up the left side of the shallow gully. Glaciation has left few holds on the lower pitches. Follow the rib to finish on the\nsummit about 70 metres to the right of two rock spires which can be seen on\nthe skyline. Crux pitch 14.", "ascent": "Peter Dickson, Bill McLeod, March 1993" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/otago/huxley-range/mt-huxley/north-east-ridge", "name": "North East Ridge", "grade": "3", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "3", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": null } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": "An impressive west-east traverse of the mountain began in the\nthe Hunter valley near Forbes Hut, ascended the cwm passing Abseil Pk, climbed steep slabs to gain the north east ridge, and gained\nthe summit. The group completed a circuit back to the Hunter\nValley via the Huxley-Ahuriri Col, head of Ahuriri Valley and the 1935m saddle to the\nsouth of Peak 2414m.", "ascent": "Lloyd Beech, Brian McGlinchy, Bill Stephenson, Stephen Thompson, January 1976" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/otago/huxley-range/mt-huxley/west-face", "name": "West Face", "grade": null, "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": "James Edwards and Sam Barron completed a winter ascent of a new line to the\nright of 42nd Street on the west face of Mt Huxley. The 800m high line goes\nup a big couloir and exits via some tricky ground just short of the summit\nwhere the pair spent the night in a hole. A pleasant introduction to New\nZealand climbing for Sam, who was straight off the plane from the UK.", "ascent": "James Edwards and Sam Barron, September 2005" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/otago/huxley-range/mt-huxley/hey-i-ordered-cheeseburger", "name": "Hey I ordered a cheeseburger", "grade": "4-", "topo_ref": null, "image": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/route/huxley2.jpg?itok=fkfkMFIu", "images": [ { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/route/huxley2.jpg?itok=fkfkMFIu", "height": "200", "width": "267" } ], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "4-", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": null } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": "Climb the 700m south spur leading to the east peak 2300m. Some nice rock near\nthe bottom up to grade 16, then into less pleasant stuff higher up. Plenty of\nsnow and verglas rock and snow over steep blocks. 10ish pitches, plus plenty\nof scrambling and soloing.", "ascent": "Paul Hersey and Dannie Baillie, February 2007" } ], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/main-divide-of-the-southern-alps/mckinnon-pk": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/main-divide-of-the-southern-alps/mckinnon-pk", "name": "McKinnon Pk", "altitude": "2504m", "access": null, "description": null, "latlng": [ "-43.41065938", "170.53356171" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/main-divide-of-the-southern-alps/mckinnon-pk/neish-plateau", "name": "From Neish Plateau", "grade": "1", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "1", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "Traverse from Cumine or climb snow slopes from the Neish Plateau." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Johannes Anderson, A Sutton-Turner, Jack Lippe, Will Kennedy, Dec 1920" } ], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki/sealy-range/mt-marie": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki/sealy-range/mt-marie", "name": "Mt Marie", "altitude": "2504m", "access": null, "description": "TBA", "latlng": [ "-43.7693", "170.019" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki/sealy-range/mt-marie/normal-route", "name": "Normal Route", "grade": "1", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "1", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "Short easy routes exist from the Sladden N\u00e9v\u00e9 up the northern rock and snow slopes of Mts Jean, Jeanette and Marie." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Conrad Kain, M Sloman, Jan 1916." }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki/sealy-range/mt-marie/birdland", "name": "Birdland", "grade": "4", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "4", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": null } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": "Ascend the south spur by an excellent rock rib, gain height on snow then\nclimb two challenging rock pitches. Easy snow fields lead to the summit tower\nand five zig zag pitches up snow and ice to the summit.", "ascent": "Ross Cullen, Bill McLeod, November 1993" } ], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki/main-divide/mt-maunga-ma": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki/main-divide/mt-maunga-ma", "name": "Mt Maunga Ma", "altitude": "2503m", "access": null, "description": null, "latlng": [ "-43.72496223", "170.0289543" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki/main-divide/mt-maunga-ma/mueller-glacier", "name": "From Mueller Glacier", "grade": "2+", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "2+", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "Direct from the Mueller Glacier to the Ngakanohi Glacier and continue up the East Rib to the summit. Glacial retreat since the first ascent has made the lower part of this climb loose, unpleasant and quite dangerous." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Otto Frind, Konrad Kain, Peter Graham, February 1914" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki/main-divide/mt-maunga-ma/frind-glacier", "name": "Via Frind Glacier", "grade": "2+", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "2+", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "From the Frind Glacier, use the rocks or avalanche cones near the Ngaroimata Falls, gain the glacier and traverse diagonally up the Ngakanohi Glacier to the East Rib which is followed direct to the summit up rotten rock (covered by snow early in the season)." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Otto Frind, Konrad Kain, Peter Graham, February 1914" } ], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aspiring/snowdrift-range/mt-ian": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aspiring/snowdrift-range/mt-ian", "name": "Mt Ian", "altitude": "2502m", "access": null, "description": "Snowdrift Range", "latlng": [ "-44.48522321", "168.47724875" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aspiring/snowdrift-range/mt-ian/boys-col", "name": "From Boys Col", "grade": null, "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "From Boys Col follow around the base of Tiber on the north-west side. A \r\nsnow couloir leads to a rocky ridge from where a traverse down and across a further couloir to the Main Divide allows a crossing of a col to the north-east face. The top is reached up a final couloir." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": null }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aspiring/snowdrift-range/mt-ian/alternative-route", "name": "Alternative Route", "grade": null, "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "Alternatively, the long grassy slopes referred to under Ferrier Peak give access to snow slopes below Ferrier and Bernard Peaks which can be crossed to the snowfields above the Blue Duck Glacier. This in turn leads to a steep ice slope which can be followed back to the main ridge and thence to the summit." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": null } ], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki/malte-brun-range/mt-malcher": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki/malte-brun-range/mt-malcher", "name": "Mt Malcher", "altitude": "2502m", "access": null, "description": "Malte Brun Range", "latlng": [ "-43.61048", "170.253012" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki/malte-brun-range/mt-malcher/east-rib", "name": "East Rib", "grade": "2", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "2", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "From the Burnett Glacier ascend the rib that reaches the Divide just south of the summit." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "J B Waterhouse, Dec 1985" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki/malte-brun-range/mt-malcher/original-route", "name": "Original Route", "grade": "2-", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "2-", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "Easily climbed from the Tasman Glacier." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Franz & Julius Malcher, Feb 1914." } ], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/main-divide-of-the-southern-alps/mt-huss": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/main-divide-of-the-southern-alps/mt-huss", "name": "Mt Huss", "altitude": "2502m", "access": null, "description": "Originally climbed on 9 December 1935 by D O W Hall and W G Mace via the north-east (Divide)\nridge from the upper Sustins Glacier. The ridge is slow travel, and it is better to access the Main\nDivide up snow slopes closer to the peak itself. Most of the ridge between Mt Huss and Pt 2543 metres\nremains untraversed. Pt 2543 metres, near Moffat, is unclimbed.", "latlng": [ "-43.465598", "170.434495" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/main-divide-of-the-southern-alps/mt-huss/north-ridge-main-divide", "name": "North Ridge (Main Divide)", "grade": null, "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "Ascend a rock buttress, west of a snow couloir between the Sustins and Easter Glaciers, from the Classen Glacier. At the head of the couloir use snow and ice slopes to gain the Main Divide north-east of the peak, as close to the summit as possible." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "David Hall, Gordon (Snow) Mace, Dec 1935" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/main-divide-of-the-southern-alps/mt-huss/south-ridge-main-divide", "name": "South Ridge (Main Divide)", "grade": "3+", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "3+", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "A steep rock climb. The ridge has three steps, the first can be turned on the left and the second on the right, with an exposed traverse on rock dropping straight to the glacier below. The third step involves easy scrambling." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Noel Sissons, Mary Atkinson, Mar 1979" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/main-divide-of-the-southern-alps/mt-huss/west-ridge", "name": "West Ridge", "grade": "2+", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "2+", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "From Lake Barrowman head up the true left of the stream draining the small glacier under Mt\r\nHuss. From the small glacier, two snow guts lead up to the range between Dog Kennel Peak and\r\nMt Huss. The ridge is of the usual broken sort, but rock on Mt Huss proper is rough and firm,\r\noffering four simple but exposed pitches. A mixed route with good rock." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Dave Bamford, John Nankervis, Grant Stotter, Richard Hancock, Feb 1977" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/main-divide-of-the-southern-alps/mt-huss/west-face", "name": "West Face", "grade": "4", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": "600m", "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "4", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": "600m", "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "Climbed from a camp in the Lake Barrowman Valley. \u2018Reminiscent of the West Face of\r\nHaidinger, only harder and more rock\u2019. A difficult route \u2013 the grade is approximate." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Ian Jowett, Noel Sissons, Mary Atkinson, Dec 1980" } ], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/c58dhau-landsborough/ben-ohau-range/dun-fiunary": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/c58dhau-landsborough/ben-ohau-range/dun-fiunary", "name": "Dun Fiunary", "altitude": "2500m", "access": null, "description": "\u201cOn the summit of Dun Fiunary I had small capsules from Otago University Physics Department for a project on UV rays. The sealed capsules had to be left on the summit and retrieved six weeks later. I climbed the mountain at least 10 times, by at least four different routes, usually alone, though sometimes with Peter Ellen.\u201d \u2013 Norman Hardie, 1992", "latlng": [ "-43.94552651", "170.02080805" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/%C5%8Dhau-landsborough/ben-ohau-range/dun-fiunary/north-face", "name": "North Face", "grade": "1+,II", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": "1+", "commitment": "II", "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": null } ], "quality": 1, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": "From Whale Stream, a number of routes can be followed to the summit. Climb a line near the north-east spur, or from 2200m altitude traverse 200m west onto the scree face and scramble up gullies and ribs to the summit.", "ascent": "Rex Booth, Reg Winn, April 1939" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/%C5%8Dhau-landsborough/ben-ohau-range/dun-fiunary/south-east-ridge", "name": "South East Ridge", "grade": "2,II", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": "2", "commitment": "II", "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": null } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": "From Jacks Stream, gain the col west of Pt 2245m via a moderate gully, then ascend the south-east ridge to the summit.", "ascent": "Norman Hardie, 1948" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/%C5%8Dhau-landsborough/ben-ohau-range/dun-fiunary/south-face", "name": "South Face", "grade": "4,IV", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": "4", "commitment": "IV", "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": null } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": "Climb the obvious couloir in centre of the south face. The first pitch is 45m of steep and thin ice, followed by generally more moderate climbing. There are a couple of steeper ice steps before the gully that reaches the ridge 20m from the summit.", "ascent": "Kynan Bazley, Antony Bush, October 2004" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/%C5%8Dhau-landsborough/ben-ohau-range/dun-fiunary/west-ridge", "name": "West Ridge", "grade": "1+,II", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": "1+", "commitment": "II", "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": null } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": "From Jacks Stream, climb towards and traverse Pt 2332m, then follow the west ridge to the summit.", "ascent": "Norman Hardie, 1948" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/%C5%8Dhau-landsborough/ben-ohau-range/dun-fiunary/stewart-stream", "name": "From Stewart Stream", "grade": "1+,II", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": "1+", "commitment": "II", "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": null } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": "Travel up Stewart Stream, then at about 1200m altitude climb the spur leading to the outlier to the west of the high peak. Continue along the broad ridge to reach the summit.", "ascent": "Norman Hardie, 1948" } ], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/canterbury/naumann-range/mt-glencairn": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/canterbury/naumann-range/mt-glencairn", "name": "Mt Glencairn", "altitude": "2499m", "access": null, "description": "Naumann Range", "latlng": [ "-43.9588436", "169.87801109" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/canterbury/naumann-range/mt-glencairn/dobson-valley", "name": "From Dobson Valley", "grade": null, "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": "There are no records of ascent of Glencairn from the Dobson side but ascent\nvia Sutherland Stream appears quite feasible to reach the ridge crest then\ntravel along to the summit.", "ascent": null }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/canterbury/naumann-range/mt-glencairn/west-face", "name": "West Face", "grade": "2-", "topo_ref": null, "image": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/routes/west%20face%20Glenchairn.jpg?itok=_sTwK5fK", "images": [ { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/routes/west%20face%20Glenchairn.jpg?itok=_sTwK5fK", "height": "289", "width": "325" } ], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "2-", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": null } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": "From the base of the north ridge on Dasler Pinnacles traverse across and up\nthe west slope of Glencairn to attain the summit by a rocky ridge.", "ascent": "Jim Dawson, Jim Gilkison, Scott Gilkison, Christopher Johnson April 1936" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/canterbury/naumann-range/mt-glencairn/north-ridge", "name": "North Ridge", "grade": "2-", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "2-", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": null } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": "Gain height from the foot of the Dasler Pinnacles north ridge to gain a small\nsnow face just north of the peak, and then by snow and ridge to the summit.", "ascent": "Bill Bradshaw, Rod Hewitt January 1947" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/canterbury/naumann-range/mt-glencairn/south-west-face", "name": "South West Face", "grade": "3-", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "3-", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": null } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": "From Hopkins valley, via central gully that leads to summit. 45 degree ice at\nbottom leading into soft 65 degree snow at top. 600m", "ascent": "Paul Heresy, Mat Woods, November 2003" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/canterbury/naumann-range/mt-glencairn/shrinky-dinky", "name": "Shrinky Dinky", "grade": "WI4", "topo_ref": null, "image": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/route/shrinkydinky2.jpg?itok=oVOUmqVn", "images": [ { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/route/shrinkydinky2.jpg?itok=oVOUmqVn", "height": "200", "width": "293" } ], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": "WI4", "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": null } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": "An obvius gully stats with water ice, 3+ 40 metre pitch then into 40-60\ndegree snow couloir heading up and right to the summit.", "ascent": "Shelly Graham and Yejin Tan, October 2005" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/canterbury/naumann-range/mt-glencairn/hidden-treasures", "name": "Hidden Treasures", "grade": "3-", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "3-", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": null } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": "From Sutherland Stream climb the central left leaning spur to the summit\nridge, crux grade 15", "ascent": "Kynan Bazley, Yew-jin Tan, April 2004" } ], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/c58dhau-landsborough/ben-ohau-range/ferintosh-pk": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/c58dhau-landsborough/ben-ohau-range/ferintosh-pk", "name": "Ferintosh Pk", "altitude": "2497m", "access": null, "description": "Ferintosh Peak is the most aesthetic peak in the Ben Ohau Range when viewed from the east. Close scrutiny reveals that Glentanner Peak is tucked behind and slightly right of Ferintosh Peak.", "latlng": [ "-43.9126", "170.0278" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/%C5%8Dhau-landsborough/ben-ohau-range/ferintosh-pk/south-ridge", "name": "South Ridge", "grade": "2,II", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": "2", "commitment": "II", "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": null } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": "From the head of the north branch of Whale Stream, scramble onto the Ben Ohau divide south of Ferintosh Peak, and traverse north to the summit sticking to the Dobson side of the ridge.", "ascent": "Norman Hardie, 1948" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/%C5%8Dhau-landsborough/ben-ohau-range/ferintosh-pk/fluke", "name": "Fluke", "grade": "14,4,IV", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": "450m", "pitches": [ { "alpine": "4", "commitment": "IV", "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": "450m", "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": "14", "description": null } ], "quality": 1, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": "Take the ramp on the left centre of the overhanging face, climb under a chockstone to reach easier ground, then follow the central rib on good quality rock to the summit. Some level sections en route. Descent is via the South Ridge.", "ascent": "Ross Cullen, Bill McLeod, January 1996" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/%C5%8Dhau-landsborough/ben-ohau-range/ferintosh-pk/dare-route", "name": "Dare Route", "grade": "5,IV,WI4,M4", "topo_ref": null, "image": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/route/SE%2520Face%2520Ferintosh%2520-%2520Route.jpg?itok=J7tD6f3V", "images": [ { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/route/SE%2520Face%2520Ferintosh%2520-%2520Route.jpg?itok=J7tD6f3V", "height": "244", "width": "325" } ], "length": "450m", "pitches": [ { "alpine": "5", "commitment": "IV", "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": "WI4", "mixed": "M4", "length": "450m", "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": null } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": "Start up steep ice through the lower rock band, slightly right of centre, before following a vague gully system to finish just right of the crest of the main buttress.", "ascent": "Ben Dare, 8 July 2014" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/%C5%8Dhau-landsborough/ben-ohau-range/ferintosh-pk/chance", "name": "Chance", "grade": "14,4,IV", "topo_ref": null, "image": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/routes/Inkedchance_LI_0.jpg?itok=hqjezGcR", "images": [ { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/routes/Inkedchance_LI_0.jpg?itok=hqjezGcR", "height": "244", "width": "325" }, { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/routes/20210208_121249_0.jpg?itok=MV6XPejE", "height": "244", "width": "325" }, { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/routes/20210208_132710.jpg?itok=hqOQwCt9", "height": "244", "width": "325" } ], "length": "350m", "pitches": [ { "alpine": "4", "commitment": "IV", "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": "350m", "bolts": null, "trad": true, "ewbank": "14", "description": null } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": true, "description": "Follow the next major rib right of Fluke. Scramble moraines and snow remnants up towards the base of the peak, with a few steps across Firn snow to the base of the central buttress of the rib. Climb loose blocky rock for the lower/steeper half, following weaknesses close to the crest of the rib, then on quality rock thereafter [On the lower half, much better rock and climbing could be had on the right of the arete, but at a higher grade and with minimal gear]. Above, where the angle eases and the tock improves, round the first tower on the left, and the second on the right. From the top, traverse across several towers along the ridge to the summit. On FA, 1 hr 25 for Chance, plus 25mins to summit; then descent was circuitous, made via the great ridge to Glentanner peak and down Twin Stream.", "ascent": "Ruari Macfarlane, February 2021" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/%C5%8Dhau-landsborough/ben-ohau-range/ferintosh-pk/south-west-face", "name": "South West Face", "grade": null, "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": "No recorded ascent, but Stewart Stream provides good access to the south-west face.", "ascent": null }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/c58dhau-landsborough/ben-ohau-range/ferintosh-pk/iwc", "name": "IWC", "grade": "17", "topo_ref": null, "image": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/routes/IWC.jpg?itok=7q3S6fYj", "images": [ { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/routes/IWC.jpg?itok=7q3S6fYj", "height": "325", "width": "244" }, { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/routes/20210214_111002.jpg?itok=G6O5wL-C", "height": "325", "width": "150" }, { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/routes/20210214_132759.jpg?itok=SZb2LWFC", "height": "244", "width": "325" } ], "length": "100m", "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": "50m", "bolts": "2", "trad": true, "ewbank": "12", "description": "Run it out up p1 & 2; easy climbing on solid rock past widely spaced bolt and gear placements up the crest of the striking low-angle arete. This is the obvious, aesthetic access to the buttress above." }, { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": "50m", "bolts": "2", "trad": true, "ewbank": "12", "description": "Run it out up p1 & 2; easy climbing on solid rock past widely spaced bolt and gear placements up the crest of the striking low-angle arete. This is the obvious, aesthetic access to the buttress above." }, { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": true, "ewbank": "14", "description": "From the left side of the ledge below the upper fin: climb up and left, around the left side of a large roof, then back right to belay below the enormous right-facing corner. Some loose rock. A harder, more direct bolted pitch now exists directly through the overlaps (unclimbed - 2022 summer project) - this pitch ends some meters right of the the P4 corner - an easy walk/traverse away, perhaps best to bump belay across if rope drag promises to be an issue." }, { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": true, "ewbank": "17", "description": "Up the corner crack directly to a cramped belay in a bomb-bay alcove below a huge roof. Great climbing but needs further cleaning of vegetation." }, { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": true, "ewbank": "15", "description": "Left out of the cave and through the roof via a crack/groove, then trend back right across the slabs (cracks) to gain the large corner against the fin. Follow this up to belay below a final steep wall." }, { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": true, "ewbank": "15", "description": "Break up the steep wall on the right, dramatic features but surprisingly easy and exhilarating climbing. Belay on the narrow ridge crest above. From here, pitch across/down the ridge to a DBA where it steepens.. Rap the fin (closed project - DBAs and occasional protection bolts). 30m raps may be just adequate to get between rap stations, but no guarantees. The odd protection bolt between stations exists and may help." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": "2", "natural_pro": true, "description": "THIS ROUTE AND ITS' SUPERIOR NEIGHBOUR (THE DORSAL FIN) HAVE BEEN MOVED TO THE WHALE STREAM SECTION. SEE WHALE STREAM FOR UP-TO-DATE DESCRIPTIONS. On the true left side of the North Branch of Whale Stream, halfway between the forks and Ferintosh Peak, is a striking fin of rock, several pitches high, that eases into a prominent spur above. IWC climbs 2 pitches up the low angle lower fin, then 4 pitches in the crack / corner systems left of the fin. A meandering trad route, climbed as an enjoyable access route onto the buttress. The central feature is a huge right-facing corner. Mainly solid rock, would benefit from some further cleaning of vegetation on the crux pitch.", "ascent": "Taichiro Naka, Pablo Borjas Von Bach, Ruari Macfarlane" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/%C5%8Dhau-landsborough/ben-ohau-range/ferintosh-pk/happenstance", "name": "Happenstance", "grade": "17,4+,IV", "topo_ref": null, "image": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/routes/happenstance%20topo_Ferintosh.png?itok=Gb2k2T4H", "images": [ { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/routes/happenstance%20topo_Ferintosh.png?itok=Gb2k2T4H", "height": "244", "width": "325" }, { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/routes/_DSC2785.JPG?itok=0TAKUO72", "height": "217", "width": "325" }, { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/routes/_DSC2804.JPG?itok=ZDvUwdUy", "height": "217", "width": "325" }, { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/routes/_DSC2822.JPG?itok=4UTJ-at9", "height": "217", "width": "325" }, { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/routes/_DSC2839.JPG?itok=cQRBaTQA", "height": "217", "width": "325" } ], "length": "300m", "pitches": [ { "alpine": "4+", "commitment": "IV", "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": "300m", "bolts": null, "trad": true, "ewbank": "17", "description": null } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": true, "description": "There is rockfall hazard on the lower pitches from the gully on the right, particularly if there is melting snow in the gully. Start with a pitch of 17, taking a narrow crack through a bulge shortly left of the mouth of the couloir (position the belayer away from the couloir). Crux near the bottom, and in a committing steep pull on a large overhanging block at the top. Continue up into the bottom of the gully, then weave up shallow gullies/ribs on the left until the angle kicks up. Belay here, traverse right a few meters and climb steeper rock just to the right of the arete, then a traverse pitch rightwards on loose, easy rock leads to overhangs at the base of the obvious clean wall of good red rock forming the right side of the upper third of the rib. Below below these. Start in a steep handcrack just left of a small left facing corner (or choose another; several steep cracks run through the roofs), then straight up (good rock climbing) for a couple of pitches. Continue up blockier aretes and wide cracks to the top of the pinnacle. The ridge is a windy place on a NW day; following the FA, descent was to the North (towards Twin Stream) then a long traverse below the ridge before taking loose ground back up to a col and down exposed snow slopes (avalanche terrain) back into Whale Stream. A traverse to the summit over/around the towers on the ridge should be possible and allow a different descent; ridge travel to the summit is relatively straight forward from the top of Chance.", "ascent": "Andy Hoare, Ruari Macfarlane, Nov 2022" } ], "places": [], "image": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/wide/public/image/SE%2520Face%2520Ferintosh%2520-%2520Route.jpg?itok=h6cjit-2", "images": [ { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/wide/public/image/SE%2520Face%2520Ferintosh%2520-%2520Route.jpg?itok=h6cjit-2", "height": "360", "width": "480" }, { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/image/20210208_094950.jpg?itok=B2TdDy7P", "height": "244", "width": "325" } ] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aspiring/harris-mountains/mt-tyndall": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aspiring/harris-mountains/mt-tyndall", "name": "Mt Tyndall", "altitude": "2496m", "access": null, "description": "When Tyndall was first climbed by Frank Wright and J R Simpson on February 21, 1914, from the Dart Valley, mention was made that it had been \u2018partially ascended\u2019 previously, and indeed in 1922 Professor James Park claimed that Alexander McKay, John Buchanan and himself had climbed it in 1881, along with Mt Edward, Mt Ansted, and \u2018all the high peaks to the south\u2019 [of Hector Col]. McKay\u2019s account on the other hand, written a few months after their expedition, makes it clear that they only went as high as \u2018Red Rock\u2019 on Tyndall, and indicates that Park\u2019s claims to this and the other ascents were probably embellished with the passage of time.", "latlng": [ "-44.53026876", "168.64009654" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aspiring/harris-mountains/mt-tyndall/shotover-saddle", "name": "Via Shotover Saddle", "grade": "1,III", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": "0m", "pitches": [ { "alpine": "1", "commitment": "III", "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": null } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": "0", "natural_pro": false, "description": "Start up easy tussock slopes on the down valley side of Tyndall Stream. When approaching Shotover Saddle bear west below the patch of red rock. Traverse through a series of easy snow basins on the north side of the East Ridge into the cirque below the low peak. Steep snow slopes lead out, on to the North Ridge a few hundred metres north of the low peak and an easy slope leads on to the high peak beyond. This is a long climb and would probably take about nine hours from Cascade Hut to the summit.", "ascent": null }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aspiring/harris-mountains/mt-tyndall/north-ridge", "name": "North Ridge", "grade": "1,II", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": "1", "commitment": "II", "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": null } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": "From Cascade Saddle, Tyndall is a very easy climb by the North Ridge. Although first climbed from the Dart valley, the ridge is now normally climbed from Aspiring Hut, taking about six hours to the summit.", "ascent": "Frank Wright, J R Simpson, 21 February 1914" } ], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/c58dhau-landsborough/ben-ohau-range/mt-dark": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/c58dhau-landsborough/ben-ohau-range/mt-dark", "name": "Mt Dark", "altitude": "2496m", "access": null, "description": null, "latlng": [ "-43.8846", "170.0454" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/%C5%8Dhau-landsborough/ben-ohau-range/mt-dark/south-face", "name": "South Face", "grade": "1+,II", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": "1+", "commitment": "II", "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": null } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": "Plod a line up the permanent snowfield to reach the summit ridge west of the summit. A variation is to climb the narrow gully leading directly to the summit. The gully route was climbed by Fiona Bowie, John McCallum and Richard Thomson in 1987.", "ascent": "First ascent unknown" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/%C5%8Dhau-landsborough/ben-ohau-range/mt-dark/east-ridge", "name": "East Ridge", "grade": "2,II", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": "2", "commitment": "II", "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": null } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": "Follow the track on the south side of Dead Horse Stream, then steadily gain height along a narrowing ridge to the summit.", "ascent": "First ascent unknown" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/%C5%8Dhau-landsborough/ben-ohau-range/mt-dark/north-east-ridge", "name": "North East Ridge", "grade": "2+,III", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": "2+", "commitment": "III", "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": null } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": "From Bush Stream, climb a rocky spur leading to Pt 2127m on the true right of stream draining the waterfall basin north-east of Mt Dark. It\u2019s a stiff scramble to reach Pt 2127m involving some full-on climbing, after which the difficulties relent.", "ascent": "Andy McFarlane, Tarn Pilkington, 1994" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/%C5%8Dhau-landsborough/ben-ohau-range/mt-dark/north-face", "name": "North Face", "grade": "1+,II", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": "1+", "commitment": "II", "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": null } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": "Follow Back Bush Stream up easy angled slopes directly to the summit. Attempted in December 1936 by Rex Booth and E.Williams.", "ascent": "First ascent unknown" } ], "places": [], "image": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/wide/public/image/BB061.jpg?itok=uo4kwXW7", "images": [ { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/wide/public/image/BB061.jpg?itok=uo4kwXW7", "height": "598", "width": "900" } ] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aspiring/forbes-mountains/moira-pk": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aspiring/forbes-mountains/moira-pk", "name": "Moira Pk", "altitude": "2494m", "access": null, "description": "First ascent H.F. Wright, 1914.", "latlng": [ "-44.55671438", "168.4435314" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aspiring/forbes-mountains/moira-pk/west-ridge", "name": "West Ridge", "grade": "1,I", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": "0m", "pitches": [ { "alpine": "1", "commitment": "I", "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": null } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": "0", "natural_pro": false, "description": "From the North or West Hunter climb to the col between Mt Head and Moira Peak via the South East Ridge and the Grant Glacier (refer to West Ridge of Head Pk). Then follow the ridge to the summit.", "ascent": null } ], "places": [], "image": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/wide/public/image/JC_Moira_Head_opt.jpeg?itok=Js6uDdwY", "images": [ { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/wide/public/image/JC_Moira_Head_opt.jpeg?itok=Js6uDdwY", "height": "365", "width": "539" } ] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki/godley-river/mt-kennedy": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki/godley-river/mt-kennedy", "name": "Mt Kennedy", "altitude": "2492m", "access": null, "description": "Between Maud Glacier & Neish Plateau.", "latlng": [ "-43.4265569", "170.52223206" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki/godley-river/mt-kennedy/unnamed", "name": "Unnamed", "grade": null, "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "Climb sound rock from Maud Glacier to low peak and then traverse poor rock to high peak." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Edgar Williams, A J Scott, R H Booth, Jan 1932" } ], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/main-divide-of-the-southern-alps/blair-pk": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/main-divide-of-the-southern-alps/blair-pk", "name": "Blair Pk", "altitude": "2486m", "access": null, "description": "Southern Alps Ka Tiritiri O Te Moana", "latlng": [ "-43.2824845", "170.85455953" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/main-divide-of-the-southern-alps/blair-pk/west-ridge", "name": "West Ridge", "grade": null, "topo_ref": "WR", "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "From Heim Plateau follow moderately easy rock, exposed in places, with an awkward face just\r\nbelow the summit." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": null }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/main-divide-of-the-southern-alps/blair-pk/south-ridge", "name": "South Ridge", "grade": "2-", "topo_ref": "SR", "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "2-", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "A steady rising traverse of the crevassed Heim Plateau leads to the upper icefall that spills off\r\nBlair Peak. Follow the ridge, moving on to the face when necessary, which is exposed towards\r\nthe top. This route can get cut off just below the summit in late season." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "H W (Sandy) Cormack, Lloyd Wilson, Sidney (Archie) Wiren, December 1932" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/main-divide-of-the-southern-alps/blair-pk/north-ridge", "name": "North Ridge", "grade": "2", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "2", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "From the Swift Water\r\nFrom the Swift Water, follow up the north west slopes under Blair and gain the North Ridge. A section of rock can be avoided by going to climbers right on snow and when this steepens markedly can be sidled off further right to gain a gentle ridge below the summit." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Paul Richardson, Roger Redmayne, Trevor Bissell, Tony Gazely, January, 1986." }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/main-divide-of-the-southern-alps/blair-pk/radiant-glacier", "name": "From the Radiant Glacier", "grade": "1+", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "1+", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "From the Radiant Glacier, follow up snowslopes between the north and north east ridges." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Descended by Paul Richardson, Roger Redmayne, Trevor Bissell, Tony Gazely, January, 1986." } ], "places": [], "image": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/wide/public/image/Blair.png?itok=PCF6qkcy", "images": [ { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/wide/public/image/Blair.png?itok=PCF6qkcy", "height": "691", "width": "900" } ] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/canterbury/armoury-range/amazon-pk": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/canterbury/armoury-range/amazon-pk", "name": "Amazon Pk", "altitude": "2486m", "access": null, "description": null, "latlng": [ "-43.35426746", "170.84246635" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/canterbury/armoury-range/amazon-pk/north-ridge", "name": "North Ridge", "grade": "1", "topo_ref": "NR", "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "1", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "Climb the straightforward glacier from Battleaxe Col, then the final few metres of rocky ridge\r\nto the summit." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": null }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/canterbury/armoury-range/amazon-pk/south-west-ridge", "name": "South West Ridge", "grade": "2-", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "2-", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "A short distance upstream of Sinclair Bivvy, follow a moraine crest to the line of bluffs running\r\nparallel to the valley below Bandit Peak. Move diagonally through the bluffs on snow slopes to\r\nreach the crest of the South West Ridge. Follow easy rock along the ridge to the summit. An\r\nalternative route on to the ridge exists at the northern end of the bluffs and crosses the glacier\r\nbetween Pt 2300 metres and Amazon Peak." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Probably climbed by David Parr and Trevor James, 1948," }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/canterbury/armoury-range/amazon-pk/crossbow-saddle", "name": "From Crossbow Saddle", "grade": "1", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "1", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "From the upper Sinclair River, follow a snow gully to Crossbow Saddle and then up the straightforward\r\nglacier to the final few metres of rock below the summit." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": null }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/canterbury/armoury-range/amazon-pk/kirk-stream", "name": "From Kirk Stream", "grade": "1", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "1", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "A straightforward snow climb from the upper Kirk Glacier with a final short rocky scramble\r\nto the top." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "H W (Sandy) Cormack, Lloyd Wilson, Sidney (Archie) Wiren, E C A Ferrier, December 1933" } ], "places": [], "image": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/wide/public/image/Amazon.png?itok=qP3uu0wX", "images": [ { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/wide/public/image/Amazon.png?itok=qP3uu0wX", "height": "570", "width": "900" } ] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/canterbury/naumann-range/benross-pk": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/canterbury/naumann-range/benross-pk", "name": "Benross Pk", "altitude": "2486m", "access": null, "description": "TBA", "latlng": [ "-43.9833", "169.8885" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/canterbury/naumann-range/benross-pk/east-ridge", "name": "East Ridge", "grade": "2", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "2", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": null } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": "From the Dobson valley ascend via Jamieson Stream until the upper snow basin\nis reached. Travel north along the Neumann Divide and climb the east ridge to\nthe summit.", "ascent": "J.Radd, F.S.Steffan, March 1912" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/canterbury/naumann-range/benross-pk/flat-battery", "name": "Flat Battery", "grade": "2+", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "2+", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": null } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": "From Red Hut climb through the beech forest just north of the stream until\nthe forest edge is reached at about 1400m. Follow the narrow clear path\nthrough the sub alpine vegetation and climb between two hillocks to reach the\ntarn at 1500m altitude, and continue up the valley to reach the mountain. The\nroute on Benross Peak is up moderate angled snow leads on the west slope.", "ascent": "Ross Cullen, Nicholas Shearer, March 1996" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/canterbury/naumann-range/benross-pk/north-face-left-couloir", "name": "North face Left couloir", "grade": "2+", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "2+", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": null } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Mat Woods and Dave Morgan, May 03" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/canterbury/naumann-range/benross-pk/north-face-right-couloir", "name": "North face Right couloir", "grade": "2+", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "2+", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": null } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Paul Hersey and Derek Chinn May 03" } ], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/canterbury-westland-alps/main-divide/mcclure-pk": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/canterbury-westland-alps/main-divide/mcclure-pk", "name": "McClure Pk", "altitude": "2486m", "access": null, "description": "McClure Peak is at the junction of the Two Thumb Range and the Main Divide and stands out as a perfect snow pyramid when looking up the Havelock Valley from the vicinity of Black Mountain Hut. McClure Peak was first climbed from Terra Nova Pass by Jack Lippe and Will Kennedy, February 1925.", "latlng": [ "-43.43173", "170.615873" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/canterbury-westland-alps/main-divide/mcclure-pk/south-ridge", "name": "South Ridge", "grade": "2-", "topo_ref": "SR", "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "2-", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "From Terra Nova Pass, follow the ridge to Saint Winifred Col. From here climb snow and rock,\r\nbypassing a large rock buttresses on the eastern side." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "William A Kennedy, Jack Lippe, February 1925" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/canterbury-westland-alps/main-divide/mcclure-pk/west-face", "name": "West Face", "grade": "1+", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "1+", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "From the upper Godley Glacier head up a tributary glacier to the Main Divide west of the peak. The West Face is fairly broad with relatively easy rock and scree slopes. This tributary glacier is likely to be cut off by crevasses at times, especially later in the season. \r\nA variation on this route has been used, approaching from Stewart Pass along the Main Divide snows of Malthus and Dennistoun.\r\nA second variation of this route is to approach from Dummy Col up the shingle bed of Eric Stream from the Havelock Valley. From Dummy Col, continue to Hidden Col, then cross snowslopes to a rib at about 2120m giving access to the same West Face." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Jack Pattle, Allan Cookson, Charles (Gordon) Buchanan, Neville Barker, March 1937" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/canterbury-westland-alps/main-divide/mcclure-pk/north-ridge", "name": "North Ridge", "grade": "2-", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "2-", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "From Hidden Col climb the glacier north of McClure Peak. At its head, follow a steepening\r\ncouloir almost directly to the summit, or move on to shattered rock either side of the couloir." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Eric de Lacey, Russell Pearce, G W Watson, February 1967" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/canterbury-westland-alps/main-divide/mcclure-pk/terra-nova-pass", "name": "From Terra Nova Pass", "grade": null, "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "From Terra Nova Pass climb the snow and rock south ridge, avoiding large rock buttresses on the eastern side, regaining the ridge about 200m from the summit. This is more difficult than it looks." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Will Kennedy, Jack Lippe, Feb 1925" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/canterbury-westland-alps/main-divide/mcclure-pk/unnamed", "name": "Unnamed", "grade": null, "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "Climb directly from the head of the Godley using a tributary glacier to access the Main Divide west of the summit." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "First Ascent Unknown" } ], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki/sealy-range/mt-jeanette": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki/sealy-range/mt-jeanette", "name": "Mt Jeanette", "altitude": "2485m", "access": null, "description": "Sealy Ra", "latlng": [ "-43.76712933", "170.0250652" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki/sealy-range/mt-jeanette/please-keep-your-seats", "name": "Please Keep Your Seats", "grade": "15,5", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "5", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": true, "ewbank": "15", "description": null } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": true, "description": "The Dobson face has been ascended in a bold summer climb. Approach the climb\nfrom the right hand side by angling up the face to gain the rock. About ten\npitches of steady climbing on fractured rock with the crux on the last pitch\nat grade 15.", "ascent": "Bill McLeod, February 1994" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki/sealy-range/mt-jeanette/normal-route", "name": "Normal Route", "grade": "1", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "1", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "Short easy routes exist from the Sladden N\u00e9v\u00e9 up the northern rock and snow slopes of Mts Jean, Jeanette and Marie." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Conrad Kain, J Thomson, Feb 1916." } ], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/canterbury/butler-range/lauper-pk": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/canterbury/butler-range/lauper-pk", "name": "Lauper Pk", "altitude": "2485m", "access": null, "description": null, "latlng": [ "-43.22657091", "170.94764601" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/canterbury/butler-range/lauper-pk/north-ridge", "name": "North Ridge", "grade": "2", "topo_ref": "NR", "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "2", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "A pleasant climb on mostly good rock, apart from a couple of shaky and exposed pinnacles." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Brian Olsen, Charlie Ledbrook ( first recorded ascent), December 1966" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/canterbury/butler-range/lauper-pk/west-face", "name": "West Face", "grade": "2", "topo_ref": "WF", "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "2", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "From the glacier, climb a steep rib on solid red greywacke." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Hugh Fyson, Ray Molineux ( first recorded ascent), December 1966" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/canterbury/butler-range/lauper-pk/south-west-ridge-variant", "name": "South West Ridge Variant", "grade": "2", "topo_ref": "SWv", "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "2", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "Bypass the lower section of the ridge by following a glacial lead and scrambling on to a small\r\nbuttress, then follow straightforward rock on to the South West Ridge." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": null }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/canterbury/butler-range/lauper-pk/south-west-ridge", "name": "South West Ridge", "grade": "2", "topo_ref": "SWr", "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "2", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "From the upper Ramsay Glacier follow a glacial lead on the west face just north of the saddle\r\nbetween Pt 2230 metres and Pt 2286 metres. Climb this, then head south to join the South West\r\nRidge. Follow the ridge, moving on to the face on the right to avoid a small gut of loose rock." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Joyce Chisholm, Joan Singleton, Jean Shallcrass, Betty Lorimer, Mildred Huggins, W H Scott," }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/canterbury/butler-range/lauper-pk/south-east-ridge", "name": "South East Ridge", "grade": null, "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "Reach the ridge by crossing the toe of the South West Ridge at Pt 2230 metres, passing through\r\na gap to the Lauper Stream face. From here, cross the snow slope to join the South East Ridge,\r\nwhich offers good climbing to the summit." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": null }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/canterbury/butler-range/lauper-pk/east-ridge", "name": "East Ridge", "grade": "2", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "2", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "Gain scree slopes east of Whitcombe Pass and climb these to the loose rock ribs that lead\r\ndirectly to the East Ridge." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Fred Kitchingham, Charles Ward, Lawrence Gooch, January 1914" } ], "places": [], "image": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/wide/public/image/Lauper.png?itok=t0F8cvO8", "images": [ { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/wide/public/image/Lauper.png?itok=t0F8cvO8", "height": "584", "width": "900" } ] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aspiring/snowdrift-range/mt-liverpool": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aspiring/snowdrift-range/mt-liverpool", "name": "Mt Liverpool", "altitude": "2482m", "access": null, "description": "tba", "latlng": [ "-44.43397837", "168.6261331" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aspiring/snowdrift-range/mt-liverpool/dart-glacier", "name": "From Dart Glacier", "grade": "2,II", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": "0m", "pitches": [ { "alpine": "2", "commitment": "II", "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": null } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": "0", "natural_pro": false, "description": "This route gives access to the upper basin of the Dart Glacier, where easy crevassed slopes lead up to the peak. The once easy slopes immediately east of the icefall are now generally impassable due to glacial recession. The route to the west of the icefall ascends an avalanche gully until level with a broad ledge which is reached by traversing across steep shingle. This route is threatened by avalanche in early summer. The icefall has been descended on skis in winter during the early 1990s but that may have been an exception. From Cascade Saddle Route is a much more direct approach to Liverpool.", "ascent": null }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aspiring/snowdrift-range/mt-liverpool/north-ridge", "name": "North Ridge", "grade": "II,3", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": "0m", "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": "II", "mtcook": "3", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": null } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": "0", "natural_pro": false, "description": "The North Ridge rises abruptly from Arawhata Saddle in two large steps. The lower one appears to be a relatively broad buttress which might best be climbed on the west side. The second however appears to involve a narrow and exposed section of ridge above the second step the angle of the ridge eases and the remainder of the climb appears relatively straightforward on the snow slopes or rock slabs west of the ridge crest before a short rock pitch at the top.", "ascent": "Dave Brown, Mike Hutchins, February 1966" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aspiring/snowdrift-range/mt-liverpool/west-face", "name": "West Face", "grade": "2,II", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": "0m", "pitches": [ { "alpine": "2", "commitment": "II", "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": null } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": "0", "natural_pro": false, "description": "From Arawata Saddle move south through ledge systems before gaining steep gullies and loose rock below the summit ridge. Climbed from a bivvy below Arawata Saddle. 7 hours return.", "ascent": "Geoff Wayatt and party, January 1979" } ], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aspiring/snowdrift-range/maiti-iti": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aspiring/snowdrift-range/maiti-iti", "name": "Maiti-iti", "altitude": "2482m", "access": null, "description": "Maiti-iti was first climbed by Lindsay Bruce, Alex Gourlay, and Les and Doug Brough from the Snow-White Glacier in January, 1958. The first ascent from the Dart was by Laurie Kennedy and Bruce Robertson, who traversed from Maori in February, 1966.", "latlng": [ "-44.43640639", "168.6056867" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aspiring/snowdrift-range/maiti-iti/standard-route", "name": "Standard Route", "grade": null, "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "A direct snow climb from Whitbourn Saddle via Snow White and \r\n\r\nMaori glaciers." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": null }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aspiring/snowdrift-range/maiti-iti/east-ridge", "name": "East Ridge", "grade": "2,II", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": "0m", "pitches": [ { "alpine": "2", "commitment": "II", "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": null } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": "0", "natural_pro": false, "description": "From the summit of Maori descend the shattered rock of the West Face to the col on the Main Divide. The East Ridge of Maiti-iti is a climb of about 100 metres, consisting of a lower section of loose rock and a more difficult and exposed upper section, before a short snow ridge leads to the summit, about l.5 hours from Maori. The col between Maori and Maiti-iti could probably be reached from the Dart N\u00e9v\u00e9.", "ascent": null }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aspiring/snowdrift-range/maiti-iti/south-face", "name": "South Face", "grade": "II,2", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": "0m", "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": "II", "mtcook": "2", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": null } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": "0", "natural_pro": false, "description": "The steep snow face of Maiti-iti is reached by climbing straightforward snow slopes beneath the ice-cliffs of the Park Glacier.", "ascent": "Barry Scott, Rob Petit, December 1974" } ], "places": [], "image": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/wide/public/image/Copy%20%282%29%20of%20UpperDart_opt.jpeg?itok=GFsBD-UK", "images": [ { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/wide/public/image/Copy%20%282%29%20of%20UpperDart_opt.jpeg?itok=GFsBD-UK", "height": "428", "width": "582" } ] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aspiring/forbes-mountains/pluto": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aspiring/forbes-mountains/pluto", "name": "Pluto", "altitude": "2480m", "access": null, "description": "tba", "latlng": [ "-44.61538179", "168.3862745" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aspiring/forbes-mountains/pluto/north-west-face", "name": "North West Face", "grade": "I,2", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": "I", "mtcook": "2", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "From the Bedford Valley a prominent scree fan leads to a couloir. A variety of routes up rock and snow ledges leading round towards the North West Face can be followed, the final ascent of the tower being up a couloir on the North West Face. Variations on the ledges up the tower have been followed.\r\n\r\nFrom Pluto Col climb scree until the foot of a vertical step in the ridge is reached at a point overlooking Spaniard Valley. Here a large ledge tends round on to the western face to gain the couloir on the North West Face. Follow beautiful big red stepping-stones from here to the summit." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "J.A. Sim, V.J. Leader, K. Grinling, Dec 1931." }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aspiring/forbes-mountains/pluto/south-buttress", "name": "South Buttress", "grade": "15,II", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": "0m", "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": "II", "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": "15", "description": null } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": "0", "natural_pro": false, "description": "From Pluto Col. This is the steep left-hand ridge viewed in profile from the bivvy. The route includes two distinct overhanging steps, both of which are turned on the climber\u2019s right. It is loose and steep. Descent is via abseil back down the route.", "ascent": "Russell Braddock, L Braddock, February 2009" } ], "places": [], "image": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/wide/public/image/Earnslaw_Pluto_05_Jour_opt.jpeg?itok=_ueHxWLj", "images": [ { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/wide/public/image/Earnslaw_Pluto_05_Jour_opt.jpeg?itok=_ueHxWLj", "height": "315", "width": "472" } ] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aspiring/snowdrift-range/wahine": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aspiring/snowdrift-range/wahine", "name": "Wahine", "altitude": "2480m", "access": null, "description": "Formerly known as Ferguson, Wahine was first climbed by Gordon Edwards, Ernie Smith and Doug Knowles on March 12, 1933.", "latlng": [ "-44.435143", "168.616649" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aspiring/snowdrift-range/wahine/west-ridge", "name": "West Ridge", "grade": "2,I", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": "0m", "pitches": [ { "alpine": "2", "commitment": "I", "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": null } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": "0", "natural_pro": false, "description": "From P\u0101keh\u0101 Col (see Governers Ridge via the Cascade Saddle track) the West Ridge of Wahine is a short, easy rock climb, taking three to four hours from Cascade Saddle.", "ascent": null }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aspiring/snowdrift-range/wahine/east-ridge", "name": "East Ridge", "grade": "2,I", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": "0m", "pitches": [ { "alpine": "2", "commitment": "I", "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": null } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": "0", "natural_pro": false, "description": "Access Liverpool by route 3.1 and traverse the straightforward rock and snow of the Main Divide to Wahine, one hour from Liverpool.", "ascent": null } ], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/otago/richardson-mountains/mt-ferguson": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/otago/richardson-mountains/mt-ferguson", "name": "Mt Ferguson", "altitude": "2480m", "access": "Access from the Rees is through Rees Valley Station. Permission must be obtained from the station prior to the start of the trip. Detailed information can be obtained at https://www.reesvalley.co.nz/access/", "description": "Richardson Mountains", "latlng": [ "-44.66028924", "168.55215392" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/otago/richardson-mountains/mt-ferguson/standard-route", "name": "Standard Route", "grade": "I,1", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": "I", "mtcook": "1", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "No public access without permission from Rees Valley Station. See access notes above.\r\nFollow the bush edge on the true right of Arthurs Creek until a point 1,060m above the old fence line is reached. Drop into the creek and follow to the col between Lapith Peak and Mt Ferguson. From here it is an easy scramble from the col to the summit." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": "No public access without permission from Rees Valley Station. See access notes above.\nFollow the bush edge on the true right of Arthurs Creek until a point 1,060m above the old fence line is reached. Drop into the creek and follow to the col between Lapith Peak and Mt Ferguson. From here it is an easy scramble from the col to the summit.", "ascent": null } ], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/main-divide-of-the-southern-alps/mt-frances": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/main-divide-of-the-southern-alps/mt-frances", "name": "Mt Frances", "altitude": "2479m", "access": null, "description": null, "latlng": [ "-43.429207", "170.51097" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/main-divide-of-the-southern-alps/mt-frances/standard-route", "name": "Standard Route", "grade": null, "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "Climb easy snow slopes from the head of the Grey Glacier." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Will Kennedy, Jack Lippe, Feb, 1925" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/main-divide-of-the-southern-alps/mt-frances/ice-lake", "name": "From Ice Lake", "grade": "1+", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "1+", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "Climb to Grey Pass and the Upper Grey Glacier (see above), then link into the route above." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Mike Andrews, Ramila Moral, Joanne Steffert, Ross Eden, Philip Paton, February 1979" } ], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/canterbury/arrowsmith-range/lawrence-pk": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/canterbury/arrowsmith-range/lawrence-pk", "name": "Lawrence Pk", "altitude": "2479m", "access": null, "description": "na", "latlng": [ "-43.325797", "171.010912" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/canterbury/arrowsmith-range/lawrence-pk/lawrence-glacier", "name": "From Lawrence Glacier", "grade": "1+", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "1+", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "Follow the north branch of the Lawrence Glacier until it steepens below Lawrence Col. Here,\r\ngain access to the upper glacier that drains the north-western slopes of Lawrence Peak. A\r\nstraightforward climb." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": null }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/canterbury/arrowsmith-range/lawrence-pk/east-ridge", "name": "East Ridge", "grade": "1+", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "1+", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "Follow easy slopes to reach the snowy East Ridge north of Jagged Glacier. This ridge narrows\r\nand leads to steep rock, which is followed directly to the summit." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": null }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/canterbury/arrowsmith-range/lawrence-pk/north-ridge", "name": "North Ridge", "grade": "2-", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "2-", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "Take the southernmost Gridiron Glacier. When below the rock buttress on the upper n\u00e9v\u00e9,\r\ntraverse northwards around the head of a snow couloir that provides access to the northern\r\nGridiron Glacier. From here, head up to the Lawrence divide and follow snow slopes with some\r\neasy rock scrambling on the Lawrence side of the ridge to the unimposing summit." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Melville (Jim) Glasgow, Keith Russell, January 1950" } ], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/darrans/darran-mountains/mt-christina": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/darrans/darran-mountains/mt-christina", "name": "Mt Christina", "altitude": "2474m", "access": null, "description": null, "latlng": [ "-44.79298018", "168.04837475" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/darrans/darran-mountains/mt-christina/original-route", "name": "Original Route", "grade": null, "topo_ref": "2", "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "Start up Cirque Creek, ascending a steep tussock and scrub fan to below a large vertical bluff. Trend right on a long traverse crossing two sculptured watercourses. From here it gets a little tricky; ascend steep tussock directly up until a small terrace leads right to a large snow basin (avoid the temptation to head directly up as the terrain steepens dramatically) then continue traversing right into the centre of the face. Follow easy slopes to the ridge north of the summit." } ], "quality": 3, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Bob Sinclair, Ken Roberts, Harry Slater, George Moir, Bill Grave, 1926" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/darrans/darran-mountains/mt-christina/skyline-buttress", "name": "Skyline Buttress", "grade": null, "topo_ref": "4", "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "The buttress is approached by sidling down from high on the Original Route." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Austin Brookes, Roger McCurdy, Bev Noble, Rod McLeod, 1974" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/darrans/darran-mountains/mt-christina/european-connection", "name": "The European Connection", "grade": "20", "topo_ref": "5", "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": true, "ewbank": "20", "description": null } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": true, "description": "Seven pitches. A ridge and face route on the skyline as seen from Homer Hut,\non the rock spur west of the South West Ridge of Christina. There is an\neasier variant missing the grade 20 pitch: stick to the main chimney crack\ninstead of traversing right.", "ascent": "Greg Aimer, Dave Brash, Jurgren Besswenger, January 1990" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/darrans/darran-mountains/mt-christina/south-west-face", "name": "South West Face", "grade": null, "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "Climb the south side of a prominent gut above Lyttle's Flat and continue up scree and snow slopes to the col just north of the summit." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Bill Gordon, Ralph Miller, Dal Ryan, 1957." }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/darrans/darran-mountains/mt-christina/south-west-ridge", "name": "South West Ridge", "grade": null, "topo_ref": "8", "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": "From the col northeast of the South Pk, climb a snow gully to join the South\nWest Ridge on the right. The first ascent began by climbing the South West\nRidge of the South Peak.", "ascent": "Dave Vass, December 1989" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/darrans/darran-mountains/mt-christina/south-ridge", "name": "South Ridge", "grade": null, "topo_ref": "9", "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "Climb up the shingle to a waterfall which drops out of a prominent west-facing gut, easily climbed on the north side. Early season avalanche danger from the hanging glacier can be avoided by crossing to slabs on the true right. A steep band is crossed in the central section and the rock deteriorates towards the summit." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Murray Jones, Harold Jacobs, Mar 1966." }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/darrans/darran-mountains/mt-christina/east-ridge", "name": "East Ridge", "grade": null, "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": "Above Camera Flat cross the river and climb a large fan, going round to the\nright and up a gully, then across a small spur. Descend to a second gully,\nmoving diagonally right into the big gully which is followed to snowfields\nand the East Ridge. Drop onto the Marian Face below Pt 1983 and back to the\nridge beyond.", "ascent": "Ron Dickie, Harold Jacobs, 29 February 1964" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/darrans/darran-mountains/mt-christina/mcleod-route", "name": "McLeod Route", "grade": null, "topo_ref": "1", "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": "On first reaching Lake Marian head up directly to the Marian Bluffs. Climb a\nshort scrubby wall right of a small gut, gaining the terraces above. Continue\nup the grassy slopes and ribs, tending left at the top to avoid rock walls.\nThe travel on these bluffs is made easy by plentiful stout snowgrass. The\nsnow slopes above give simple access to the East Ridge, which is gained well\nabove the East Peak for a straightforward approach to the summit.", "ascent": "Bill McLeod, 1980" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/darrans/darran-mountains/mt-christina/brookes-simpson", "name": "Brookes Simpson", "grade": null, "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": "Up the bluffs and snow directly above Lake Marian to the upper Marian Ridge.", "ascent": "Austin Brookes, Archie Simpson, 1965" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/darrans/darran-mountains/mt-christina/gordon-hall-jones-miller", "name": "Gordon Hall-Jones Miller", "grade": null, "topo_ref": "3", "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": "From the top of the highest snowgrass slope beyond the lake, climb up and\nsidle left around a waterfall basin to a gendarme at the foot of the summit\nsnow-slopes. The first ascent party made the first traverse of Mt Christina.", "ascent": "Bill Gordon, Gerry Hall-Jones, Ralph Miller, 22 January 1955" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/darrans/darran-mountains/mt-christina/complete-east-ridge", "name": "Complete East Ridge", "grade": "3", "topo_ref": null, "image": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/routes/54E37AAF-4CB2-4DE5-9161-0B0E1ADA60A2.jpeg?itok=yP5A_b2b", "images": [ { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/routes/54E37AAF-4CB2-4DE5-9161-0B0E1ADA60A2.jpeg?itok=yP5A_b2b", "height": "230", "width": "325" } ], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": "3", "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "Note: the photo is from Key Summit and shows the line of first ascent which also took in Mt Crosscut and Barrier Peak. There is a descent to Cirque Creek from near Christina\u2019s north summit." } ], "quality": 2, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": "Cross the Lake Marian Track Bridge off the Hollyford Road and go directly through the forest to the base of the ridge. Follow a vegetated weekness left (south) under obvious cliff, then back right, then left again to reach the bush line (about 4 hrs). Then follow the ridge for about 9km to all summits.\nThe black cliff with slabby base that protects the final part of the E ridge to the true summit has yet to be climbed and has been bypassed by all known parties to the north.\nThere is a good bivy platform on the west side of the ridge about 200m N of the summit.", "ascent": "Craig Jefferies, Steve Skelton, Kyle Walter 6 Feb 2021" } ], "places": [], "image": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/wide/public/image/Christina%20High.jpg?itok=stPB0cV-", "images": [ { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/wide/public/image/Christina%20High.jpg?itok=stPB0cV-", "height": "636", "width": "900" } ] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/canterbury/two-thumb-range/myrmidon": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/canterbury/two-thumb-range/myrmidon", "name": "Myrmidon", "altitude": "2474m", "access": null, "description": "tba", "latlng": [ "-43.5739857", "170.7187355" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/canterbury/two-thumb-range/myrmidon/west-face", "name": "West Face", "grade": "1+", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "1+", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "Climb steep scree to reach a steeply left-rising scree ledge leading directly to the summit." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": null }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/canterbury/two-thumb-range/myrmidon/south-ridge", "name": "South Ridge", "grade": "1+", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "1+", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "Climb rotten rock ridges and small ledges, utilising a gully on the eastern side to reach the\r\nsummit." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "David Turnbull, Colin Burrows, March 1967" } ], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/%C5%8Dhau-landsborough/huxley-range/pt-2472": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/%C5%8Dhau-landsborough/huxley-range/pt-2472", "name": "Pt 2472", "altitude": "2472m", "access": null, "description": null, "latlng": [ "-44.0684986087", "169.671611611" ], "routes": [], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki/godley-river/mt-fletcher": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki/godley-river/mt-fletcher", "name": "Mt Fletcher", "altitude": "2467m", "access": null, "description": "On the ridge SW of Mt Frances", "latlng": [ "-43.442233", "170.495778" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki/godley-river/mt-fletcher/unnamed", "name": "Unnamed", "grade": null, "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "Traverse from the summit of Gordon. From the col between the two peaks ascend the south ridge to gain the low peak. From the summit of Frances use the north-west ridge. Watch for loose rock - in 1992 a large rock avalanche fell down the east face, crossed the Maud Glacier and continued some way up the other side of the valley." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "A J Scott, Alf Brustad, Russell Fraser, Jan 1933 (High Peak). Will Kennedy, Jack Lippe, Jan 1918 (Low Peak)." } ], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/c58dhau-landsborough/ben-ohau-range/pt-2466": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/c58dhau-landsborough/ben-ohau-range/pt-2466", "name": "Pt 2466", "altitude": "2466m", "access": null, "description": null, "latlng": [ "-43.886264", "170.023212" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/%C5%8Dhau-landsborough/ben-ohau-range/pt-2466/south-west-ridge", "name": "South West Ridge", "grade": "1+,II", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": "1+", "commitment": "II", "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": null } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": "From upper Twin Stream, ascend snow slopes to gain the col at the toe of the ridge. Easy travel along the ridge leads to the summit.", "ascent": "Richard Brasier, Roger Conroy, Bruce Mason, Ken Mason, February 1968" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/%C5%8Dhau-landsborough/ben-ohau-range/pt-2466/western-slopes", "name": "Western Slopes", "grade": null, "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": "An obvious notch in the bush 1 km upstream from the monument in the Dobson Valley provides the start to the spur leading up the western slopes.", "ascent": "No recorded ascent" } ], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki/main-divide/mt-eric": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki/main-divide/mt-eric", "name": "Mt Eric", "altitude": "2466m", "access": null, "description": "South of Twain Col", "latlng": [ "-43.72893056", "170.0216433" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki/main-divide/mt-eric/twain-col", "name": "Via Twain Col", "grade": "2+", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "2+", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": null } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": "Via Twain Col and south along the Main Divide. See Twain Col [1].\n[1] http://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/main-divide-of-the-southern-alps/twain-col", "ascent": "Peter Graham, Samuel Turner, March 1914" } ], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/%C5%8Dhau-landsborough/main-divide/mt-percy-smith": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/%C5%8Dhau-landsborough/main-divide/mt-percy-smith", "name": "Mt Percy Smith", "altitude": "2465m", "access": null, "description": null, "latlng": [ "-43.82323278", "169.89253269" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/%C5%8Dhau-landsborough/main-divide/mt-percy-smith/north-ridge", "name": "North Ridge", "grade": "3", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "3", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": null } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": "A bold climb beginning near Richardson Bivvy. Climb the rock and ice until\nthe ridge is reached, turn a large gendarme on the eastern side, and regain\nthe ridge on solid red rock. Cross two chevals separated by a hand traverse\nwith a 600m drop on the west, before completing the final scramble on\ndeteriorating quality rock. An excellent alpine challenge.", "ascent": "Lloyd Divers, Gordon Edwards, Russell Edwards, Ernie Smith March 1936" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/%C5%8Dhau-landsborough/main-divide/mt-percy-smith/south-ridge", "name": "South Ridge", "grade": "2", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "2", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": null } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": "The south ridge commences from the col between Mt Williams and Mt Percy\nSmith, and climbs 500m to the summit.", "ascent": "Descended by Dave Brown, George Edwards December 1966" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/%C5%8Dhau-landsborough/main-divide/mt-percy-smith/east-face", "name": "East Face", "grade": null, "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": "Appears to be unclimbed at present.", "ascent": null }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/%C5%8Dhau-landsborough/main-divide/mt-percy-smith/south-west-face", "name": "South West Face", "grade": "17,6-", "topo_ref": null, "image": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/route/Copy%20of%20Percy%20Smith.jpg?itok=OxR5U3A2", "images": [ { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/route/Copy%20of%20Percy%20Smith.jpg?itok=OxR5U3A2", "height": "325", "width": "259" } ], "length": "700m", "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "6-", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": "700m", "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": "17", "description": "Ascend features up centre of the face to finish just west of the summit. Begin at an obvious access slab between pronounced overhangs and move up to ledge beneath steep wall. Follow up and right to gain clean rib and continue on until the rib terminates beside a big gully. The route moves left along a weakness of blocky brown rock to gain another rib, which i sthe right side of a smaller gully.Climb the rib to it's conclusion then breach the steep upper band by continuing up a line of weaknesses above the rib then moving left onto easier angle and straight up.\r\n23 Pitches" } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": "The tremendous slabs of the south face are most imposing ... wrote Scott\nGilkison and Harry Stephenson in 1956. Imposing, and unclimbed, the 700 metre\nhigh south west face remained until February 1993 when Bill McLeod and Peter\nK.Dickson arrived during a fine spell.\nTo those who admire the Tall and Steep this face is a compelling sight from\nBaker Creek. Well fortified with overhangs, verticality, and stone fall\nzones. The route however is not threatened and is climbed on good rock with a\nmultitude of grips.\nBill McLeod, personal communication, February 1993.", "ascent": "Bill McLeod and Peter K.Dickson, February 1993" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/%C5%8Dhau-landsborough/main-divide/mt-percy-smith/dark-shore", "name": "On the Dark Shore", "grade": "17,VI,6-", "topo_ref": null, "image": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/route/Percy%20Smith.jpg?itok=gOyHlzXL", "images": [ { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/route/Percy%20Smith.jpg?itok=gOyHlzXL", "height": "325", "width": "259" } ], "length": "790m", "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": "VI", "mtcook": "6-", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": "790m", "bolts": null, "trad": true, "ewbank": "17", "description": "Ascend features up centre of face to finish just west of summit. Begin at an obvious access slab between pronounced overhangs and move up to ledge beneath steep wall. Follow up and right to gain clean rib and continue on until the rib terminates beside a big gully. The route moves left along a weakness of blocky brown rock to gain another rib, which is the right side of a smaller gully. Climb the rib to its conclusion then breach the steep upper band by continuing up a line of weaknesses above the rib then moving left onto easier angle and straight up. 23 pitches, crux grade 17." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": true, "description": "Here's a more general description that may help: Walk around the top of the\nglacial lake from the magnificant bivvy rock beside the stream that drains\nit. The highest bit of the face has a wide \"V\" gully feature on a scale of\nabout a third of the height of the wall. Start just to the left of this\ncentral feature to avoid rockfall potentionally funneling down from the top.\nThere is only 1 place to start here because either side of it has overhanging\nrock. Do not be tempted to start further out left of this because promising\nrock invariably ends up in dangerously loose ground after 2 pitches. Use your\neyes to pick the correct line and make sure it all connects up. There is\nonly 1 possible line on this side of the 'funnel'. Climb easy ground\neventually moving onto an easy rib, this rib is essentially the left side of\nthe gully below this big \"V\" feature. At a particular point on the rib it\nchanges, (getting steeper?).\nDuring inspection from the bottom of the face you should have already noted a\nseries of ascending ledges about 2/3 the way up, leading to the left like a\nstaircase. During this ledge traverse you will find a potential excellent\nunused flat bivvy protected from above by an overhanging wall. After that\nthere are no flat bivvys and the one sitting bivvy is exposed to rockfall (we\nstarted the climb at 2pm so had to bivvy). After going left up those ledges\ngo up an unlikely looking loose wide corner (17/18) using a 'rib' just to\nthe right of it to finally break through some steep ground and gain access to\nthe final headwall. The headwall overhang is intimidating. Towards the\nright hand end of it, and hopefully now directly above you, you should see a\nweakness that may have ice choking it. Chop this away and crank over it\n(15/16). From here it is just 1 pitch to the top of the face, but expect a\nfew surprises after that.", "ascent": "Peter Dickson, Bill McLeod, February 1993" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/%C5%8Dhau-landsborough/main-divide/mt-percy-smith/west-ridge", "name": "West Ridge", "grade": "16,4-", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "4-", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": "16", "description": null } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": "The three km long west ridge provides a slow but achievable route to the\nsummit over ricketty stacks.\nThe first two kilometres of the West Ridge are straight forward, providing\nenjoyable climbing over steepening slopes and ridges. From point 2200m,\nthere is an unpleasant downclimb, followed by increasingly loose rickety\nstacks. This continues up to the summit headwall, which is reached after a\ncouple of easy pitches, and a terribly loose rap to the base of the headwall.\nFrom here, two stellar pitches (16 & 14) go someway to redeeming what is\notherwise a terrible route. The first ascentionists do not recommend\nrepeating or descending this route, and instead recommend the South Ridge as\na better descent option if a route on the SW Face tops out near the summit.", "ascent": "Pete Harris, Alastair McDowell, Jan 2016" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/%C5%8Dhau-landsborough/main-divide/mt-percy-smith/north-face", "name": "North Face", "grade": null, "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Unclimbed at the present." } ], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/canterbury/wild-mans-brother-range/battlement": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/canterbury/wild-mans-brother-range/battlement", "name": "The Battlement", "altitude": "2464m", "access": null, "description": null, "latlng": [ "-43.365251", "170.988035" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/canterbury/wild-mans-brother-range/battlement/ashburton-glacier", "name": "From Ashburton Glacier", "grade": null, "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "Climb the eastern arm of the Ashburton Glacier to a small col south of Pt 2464 metres (The Battlement), then follow the ridge to the top." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "John Morris, R L Holland, January 1970" } ], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aspiring/snowdrift-range/maruiwi": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aspiring/snowdrift-range/maruiwi", "name": "Maruiwi", "altitude": "2460m", "access": null, "description": "Maruiwi was formerly known as Moriori. The first ascent was by Jim Dawson, Bob Craigie, Phil Cook, and Scott Gilkison on January 7, 1939, from the Snow-White Glacier.", "latlng": [ "-44.441554", "168.593585" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aspiring/snowdrift-range/maruiwi/whitbourn-saddle", "name": "From Whitbourn Saddle", "grade": null, "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "From Whitbourn Saddle and Snow White Glacier either climb up the \r\n\r\nglacier or a snow couloir on the north face to the North West Ridge then traverse the West Face and complete the ascent up the snow face to the south; or climb the west snow face to the rock ridge on the Divide and follow this to the summit." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": null }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aspiring/snowdrift-range/maruiwi/park-glacier", "name": "Via Park Glacier", "grade": "2,II", "topo_ref": "1", "image": null, "images": [], "length": "0m", "pitches": [ { "alpine": "2", "commitment": "II", "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": null } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": "0", "natural_pro": false, "description": "From the Dart N\u00e9v\u00e9, reach the extreme northern end of the Park Glacier by a steep snow face with an upper rock band, at the south-west end of the shelf of the hanging glacier beneath Maiti-iti and Maori. The summit can be reached by easy snow routes on either the North East or South Ridges.", "ascent": "Phil Penney, Simon Harris" } ], "places": [], "image": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/wide/public/image/Copy%20of%20UpperDart_opt.jpeg?itok=gY-1_6Hm", "images": [ { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/wide/public/image/Copy%20of%20UpperDart_opt.jpeg?itok=gY-1_6Hm", "height": "428", "width": "582" } ] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/canterbury/gamack-range/pt-2459": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/canterbury/gamack-range/pt-2459", "name": "Pt 2459", "altitude": "2459m", "access": null, "description": ".", "latlng": [ "-43.74753615", "170.35733237" ], "routes": [], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/c58dhau-landsborough/main-divide/mt-spence": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/c58dhau-landsborough/main-divide/mt-spence", "name": "Mt Spence", "altitude": "2458m", "access": null, "description": null, "latlng": [ "-43.7694", "169.972" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/%C5%8Dhau-landsborough/main-divide/mt-spence/stonewall", "name": "Stonewall", "grade": "12,4,IV", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": "4", "commitment": "IV", "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": "12", "description": null } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": "The east face of Mt Spence is an axe head of rock which succumbed to Bill McLeod\u2019s repeated attempts. Stonewall begins at a peaklet below the face, heads leftwards across the snow slope to reach the centre of the rock face. There are acres of climbable rock on the face, and the orange-coloured overhang 70m left of the summit provides the target for this 500m route.", "ascent": "Bill McLeod, March 1995" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/%C5%8Dhau-landsborough/main-divide/mt-spence/north-ridge", "name": "North Ridge", "grade": "2,III", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": "2", "commitment": "III", "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": null } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": "From Barron Saddle, sidle across the south face of Scissors to the Main Divide, or traverse over Scissors. Continue on the edge of the slabs that descend into the head of the Landsborough and then up the last steep ridge to the summit.", "ascent": "Samuel Turner, Conrad Kain, March 1914" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/%C5%8Dhau-landsborough/main-divide/mt-spence/west-face", "name": "West Face", "grade": "2+,III", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": "2+", "commitment": "III", "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": null } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": "Mt Spence is a classic upper Landsborough peak, with a gentle west-facing dip slope and a steep scarp to the east. From what\u2019s left of the Le Blanc Glacier, climb to the north, gaining height on easy snow slopes to reach the col east of Pk 2204m. Avoid the tricky slabs by following snow leads where possible. From the col, climb the west ridge to the summit. The first party on the route used it as a descent.", "ascent": "Bill Beaven, Norman Hardie, Jim McFarlarne, Earle Riddiford, January 1948" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/%C5%8Dhau-landsborough/main-divide/mt-spence/south-ridge", "name": "South Ridge", "grade": "3,III", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": "3", "commitment": "III", "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": null } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": "From the summit of Mt Foster traverse along the near horizontal ridge to the summit.", "ascent": "Bill Beaven, Norman Hardie, Jim McFarlarne, Earle Riddiford, January 1948" } ], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aspiring/snowdrift-range/bernard-pk": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aspiring/snowdrift-range/bernard-pk", "name": "Bernard Pk", "altitude": "2457m", "access": null, "description": "tba", "latlng": [ "-44.487804", "168.47309" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aspiring/snowdrift-range/bernard-pk/cattle-flat", "name": "From Cattle Flat", "grade": null, "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "From the bottom end of Cattle Flat a trail leads to bush line and through scrub to the true left of the stream draining O\u2019Leary Pass from where long grassy slopes provide gentle access to the snow.\r\nThe long grassy slopes referred to under Ferrier Peak lead to snowfields to the east across the top of Curzon Glacier. From this point, rocks are ascended to the summit." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": null } ], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aspiring/harris-mountains/headlong-pk": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aspiring/harris-mountains/headlong-pk", "name": "Headlong Pk", "altitude": "2457m", "access": null, "description": null, "latlng": [ "-44.539659", "168.591814" ], "routes": [], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki/main-divide/graceful-pk": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki/main-divide/graceful-pk", "name": "Graceful Pk", "altitude": "2457m", "access": null, "description": null, "latlng": [ "-43.50336724", "170.37185669" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki/main-divide/graceful-pk/north-east-ridge", "name": "North East Ridge", "grade": "2+", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "2+", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "From Whymper Saddle climb a steep snow slope west of the saddle to reach a rock ridge to the north-east. Follow this narrow and loose ridge to the summit." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "N H Hamilton, M Hamilton, B W Patterson, Dec 1942" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki/main-divide/graceful-pk/murchison-n%C3%A9v%C3%A9", "name": "From the Murchison N\u00e9v\u00e9", "grade": null, "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "From the Murchison N\u00e9v\u00e9 gain the col between Aylmer and Graceful, then follow the Main Divide (rock) to the summit." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": null } ], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/otago/huxley-range/mt-barth": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/otago/huxley-range/mt-barth", "name": "Mt Barth", "altitude": "2456m", "access": null, "description": "Canyon Creek contains an attractive alpine region and first attracted the attention of climbers in 1935. The valley was described in glowing terms by Colin Todd in 1954.\n... without question the finest in the Otago region for climbing course instruction for here all climbing conditions from rock peaks to crevassed snowfields and ice slopes are easily accessible from a comfortable base camp which can be reached in one day from Dunedin.\nColin Todd, New Zealand Alpine Journal, 1954.", "latlng": [ "-44.1596442664", "169.603360464" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/otago/huxley-range/mt-barth/north-east-face", "name": "North East Face", "grade": "2+", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "2+", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": null } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": "From Hagens Hut wander up Plughole Creek, negotiate the lower slopes and\ncrampon up the face onto rock and the summit.", "ascent": "Eric Feasy, Syd Woods, Some time in the 1970's" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/otago/huxley-range/mt-barth/canyon-creek", "name": "From Canyon Creek", "grade": "2+,II,2+", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": "2+", "commitment": "II", "mtcook": "2+", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": null } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": "Access to Canyon Creek is via a trail on the western side of the stream,\nwhich begins before the canyon at the junction with Little Canyon Creek.\nClimb through the bush to reach the south lip of the canyon, then gradually\ndescend to the shingly clearing. Stay on the west side of the stream until\nthe bluffs are reached and climb out high to the left, before turning right\nand sidling upstream to reach the bivvy rock.", "ascent": "DW Beatty, AW McNaught, SE Diehl, Ed Glass, Ray Slater, Jim McNulty, RS Boyd, DJ Caswell, April 1955" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/otago/huxley-range/mt-barth/west-ridge", "name": "West Ridge", "grade": "2+", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "2+", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": null } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": "Climb the gut between Heim and Barth, cross the Thurneyson Glacier and follow\nthe west ridge to the summit.", "ascent": "Russell Gregory, Arnold Hubbard, January 1953" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/otago/huxley-range/mt-barth/south-face", "name": "South Face", "grade": "2+,II", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": "2+", "commitment": "II", "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": null } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": "Jim Crozier and Selwyn Grave led the first three attempts on the mountain, finally succeeding via the glacier route from the south. From the bivvy rock continue up valley then strike out left across the Thurneyson Glacier, bypass the crevassed mid-section and climb the slopes to the summit.", "ascent": "Lindsay Crozier, Jim Crozier, Bruce Gillies, Selwyn Grave, January 1936." } ], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/canterbury/two-thumb-range/tantalus": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/canterbury/two-thumb-range/tantalus", "name": "Tantalus", "altitude": "2454m", "access": null, "description": "tba", "latlng": [ "-43.58273588", "170.7122568" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/canterbury/two-thumb-range/tantalus/north-ridge", "name": "North Ridge", "grade": "1+", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "1+", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "From the head of Iliad Basin, climb to a small col and head east along a series of ledges to a small\r\nspur that leads to the summit." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "David Turnbull, Colin Burrows, March 1967" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/canterbury/two-thumb-range/tantalus/west-ridge", "name": "West Ridge", "grade": "2-", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "2-", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "A straightforward climb up scree and rock from Iliad Basin. The final 100 metres or so is the\r\ncrux and many of the problems can be passed on the north side." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "David Turnbull, Colin Burrows, March 1967" } ], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/canterbury/mt-ramsay": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/canterbury/mt-ramsay", "name": "Mt Ramsay", "altitude": "2454m", "access": null, "description": "na", "latlng": [ "-43.271831", "170.880919" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/canterbury/mt-ramsay/west-ridge", "name": "West Ridge", "grade": "2", "topo_ref": "WR", "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "2", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "Reach the West Ridge from the upper Cockayne Glacier and scramble to the summit.\r\nFollow straightforward slopes from a col between Mt Westland and Mt Ramsay." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "George McElroy, Bill Heinz, Peter Weenink (descended), February 1932" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/canterbury/mt-ramsay/south-ridge", "name": "South Ridge", "grade": "2+", "topo_ref": "SR", "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "2+", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "Gain the South Ridge from the upper Cockayne Glacier. The rock is poor in places.\r\nUnder good snow conditions the loose rock of the South Ridge can be reached via the St James\r\nGlacier." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "George McElroy, Bill Heinz, Peter Weenink, February 1932" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/canterbury/mt-ramsay/north-east-ridge", "name": "North East Ridge", "grade": null, "topo_ref": "NE", "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "From the Clarke moraine climb up a ridge between the Clarke and Ramsay Glaciers and continue\r\nalong rock and snow to the summit." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "George McElroy, Bill Heinz, February 1932" } ], "places": [], "image": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/wide/public/image/Ramsay_0.png?itok=Rl0sqeYS", "images": [ { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/wide/public/image/Ramsay_0.png?itok=Rl0sqeYS", "height": "691", "width": "900" }, { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/image/Ramsay1.png?itok=XEmNO32k", "height": "223", "width": "325" } ] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/c58dhau-landsborough/hooker-range/fettes-pk": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/c58dhau-landsborough/hooker-range/fettes-pk", "name": "Fettes Pk", "altitude": "2451m", "access": null, "description": "TBA", "latlng": [ "-43.75056578", "169.87020324" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/westland/hooker-range/fettes-pk/north-east-ridge", "name": "North East Ridge", "grade": "2+", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "2+", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": null } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": "From the Whitcombe Glacier gain the ridge and traverse over loose rock to the\nsummit.\n\"Olly and I made a 16-hour return trip from a bivvy at the junction of the\nSpence and the Landsborough. I think ours was the 5th ascent of the peak,\nalthough I don't know how I figured that. Our ascent is noted in the CMC\nJournal, no. 39 New Climbs, although it's incorrectly listed as the E Ridge\n(the Townsend-Fettes ridge defines it). It was interesting on top because we\nfound a bottle with, as I recall, the first ascentionist's names from 1933,\nand then we descended their route.\"\nStu Allan", "ascent": "Stu Allan, Olly McCahon, February 1971" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/westland/hooker-range/fettes-pk/north-west-flank", "name": "North West Flank", "grade": "2+,III", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": "0m", "pitches": [ { "alpine": "2+", "commitment": "III", "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": null } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": "0", "natural_pro": false, "description": "From Highland Pass, ascend the blunt ridge a bit before traversing west at about 1750m, or climb over a shoulder at 1950m, to connect with a narrow snow ramp leading up between steep bluffs to the Zircon n\u00e9v\u00e9. Could be bare slabs late season. The summit pyramid is best approached along the south ridge.", "ascent": "Aat Vervoorn, Dave Chowdhury, January 2001" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/westland/hooker-range/fettes-pk/south-ridge", "name": "South Ridge", "grade": "2+", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "2+", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": null } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": "Follow the Whitcombe Creek to reach the Fettes Glacier. Ascend the glacier to\ngain the ridge above the Spur Glacier and traverse the ridge to the summit.\nChristopher Johnson, a member of the first ascent party, an old boy of Fettes\nCollege, Edinburgh, placed his school hat-band in the summit cairn.", "ascent": "Archie Scott, Christopher Johnson, Scott Russell, January 1935" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/westland/hooker-range/fettes-pk/west-face", "name": "West Face", "grade": "2+", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "2+", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": null } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": "From a camp on Mueller Pass, and the upper Zora Creek, gain height via the\ngully onto the Zircon Glacier and ascend the upper snowfields to the summit.", "ascent": "Marie Byles, Marjorie Edgar-Jones, Harry Ayres, Frank Alack, January 1935, just two days after the first ascent of the mountain by Scott, Johnson and Russell" } ], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/%C5%8Dhau-landsborough/main-divide/mt-humphries": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/%C5%8Dhau-landsborough/main-divide/mt-humphries", "name": "Mt Humphries", "altitude": "2450m", "access": null, "description": null, "latlng": [ "-43.8149", "169.8996" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/%C5%8Dhau-landsborough/main-divide/mt-humphries/north-ridge", "name": "North Ridge", "grade": "2", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "2", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": null } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": "From Charity Col sidle south on the western side of the divide and rejoin the\nridge for the final ascent to the summit.", "ascent": "D.W.Dyett, PhilGardiner, J.F.McMahon, AtholRoberts, December 1946" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/%C5%8Dhau-landsborough/main-divide/mt-humphries/dont-think-twice", "name": "Don't Think Twice", "grade": "4", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "4", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": null } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": "The south east face of Mt Humphries was among the last faces in the valley to\nreceive an ascent. The approach is up a broken snow field to the centre of\nthe face, and the route takes the centre just left of an overhang, trends\nright up a ramp to a vertical corner, then slightly left to complete a\ncentral finish. 400m in height, of which two thirds are on excellent rock\nwhile the top section is a bit scruffy, crux grade 15.", "ascent": "Bill McLeod, January 1995" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/%C5%8Dhau-landsborough/main-divide/mt-humphries/south-ridge", "name": "South Ridge", "grade": "3", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "3", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": null } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": "From Erceg Hut cross the Hopkins River and climb through the bluffs to the\nsnowslopes and up to the col between Percy Smith and Humphries. From the col,\nclimb the excellent rock ridge to the summit.", "ascent": "Robert Gunn, Ray Molineaux, John Nankervis, GordonVickers, December 1966" } ], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/main-divide-of-the-southern-alps/cassino-pk": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/main-divide-of-the-southern-alps/cassino-pk", "name": "Cassino Pk", "altitude": "2450m", "access": null, "description": "(Southern Grey Virgin).\nCassino, Alamein and Takrouna, were collectively known as the Grey Virgins.\nAttempts to climb them were made over many years and they were among the last significant peaks in\nthe Alps to be climbed. Cassino Peak was originally climbed from the Grey Glacier along the South\nRidge. From the low summit, traverse under rock pinnacles and up the right-hand face to the summit\nproper.\nJohn Harrison, Ian Baine, B H (Snow) Williams, L G Osborne, 29 December 1952", "latlng": [ "-43.451892", "170.460502" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/main-divide-of-the-southern-alps/cassino-pk/south-ridge", "name": "South Ridge", "grade": null, "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "Climb from the Grey N\u00e9v\u00e9 above the icefall to the hanging glacier. Then follow steep snow and rock to the Main Divide onto the low summit. Traverse under rock pinnacles between the summits and up the right hand face to the summit proper." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "John Harrison, Ian Baine, B H (Snow) Williams, Dec 1952" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/main-divide-of-the-southern-alps/cassino-pk/west", "name": "From the West", "grade": "2+", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "2+", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "From the lower Gino Watkins Glacier access the West Ridge. Up to the 2200-metre contour\r\nthis ridge has been used as access by climbing parties camping on the Nansen Glacier. From the\r\nupper Nansen n\u00e9v\u00e9, climb the ridge to the summit." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Laurie Osborne, Bruce Waterhouse, John Harrison, B H (Snow) Williams, Jan 1954" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/main-divide-of-the-southern-alps/cassino-pk/north-ridge-main-divide", "name": "North Ridge (Main Divide)", "grade": "2+", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "2+", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "Climbed from the Nansen n\u00e9v\u00e9, approaching the peak from the north, mostly up the face.\r\nOn the first ascent a good snow lead took the party to the Main Divide North Ridge about\r\n150 metres below the summit. Several pitches of mixed climbing led to the top. Descent via a\r\nsnowface and a couple of snow gullies back to the Nansen." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "John Nankervis, Phil Castle, Grant Stotter, Pat Thorn, Dec 1978" } ], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki/the-sierra-range/splinter-pk": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki/the-sierra-range/splinter-pk", "name": "Splinter Pk", "altitude": "2450m", "access": null, "description": "In the central part of the range.", "latlng": null, "routes": [], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/%C5%8Dhau-landsborough/main-divide/mt-clark": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/%C5%8Dhau-landsborough/main-divide/mt-clark", "name": "Mt Clark", "altitude": "2450m", "access": null, "description": null, "latlng": [ "-43.85", "169.8373" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/%C5%8Dhau-landsborough/main-divide/mt-clark/thomson-valley", "name": "From the Thomson Valley", "grade": "2+", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "2+", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": null } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": "From the Thomson valley near point 1132m choose a line up the slopes to reach\nthe Foster Glacier and climb past active ice and crevasses to reach the\nsummit pyramid and climb the rock to the summit.", "ascent": "A.Hines, Athol Roberts, T.R.Smith, K.F.Wood December 1947" } ], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki/main-divide/cadogan-pk": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki/main-divide/cadogan-pk", "name": "Cadogan Pk", "altitude": "2449m", "access": null, "description": "Sefton Biv", "latlng": [ "-43.67172082", "170.0740242" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki/main-divide/cadogan-pk/east-rib", "name": "East Rib", "grade": "2", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "2", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "Via the rock ridge between the Eugenie and Hayter Glaciers and a rib right of centre on the East Face. A bad area for slab avalanches early in the summer." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Freda Du Faur, Peter Graham, Mar 1913." }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki/main-divide/cadogan-pk/copland-pass", "name": "From the Copland Pass", "grade": "2-", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "2-", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "From the Copland Pass" } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Franz & Julius Malcher, E Ranft, Feb 1914." } ], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/nelson-lakes-kaikc58dura/inland-kaikoura-range/crows-nest": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/nelson-lakes-kaikc58dura/inland-kaikoura-range/crows-nest", "name": "Crow\u2019s Nest", "altitude": "2449m", "access": null, "description": null, "latlng": null, "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/nelson-lakes-kaik%C5%8Dura/inland-kaik%C5%8Dura-range/crow%E2%80%99s-nest/north-west-face", "name": "North West Face", "grade": "2-", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "2-", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "" } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": "Crow\u2019s Nest can be climbed via the North Ridge of Pinnacle. From near the Hodder/Staircase junction climb the spur and then slopes onto the north ridge and follow this, sidling on the west if necessary, to the crest of the main range.", "ascent": null } ], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/canterbury/two-thumb-range/the-onlooker": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/canterbury/two-thumb-range/the-onlooker", "name": "The Onlooker", "altitude": "2449m", "access": null, "description": "tba", "latlng": [ "-43.46438246", "170.59415817" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/canterbury/two-thumb-range/the-onlooker/west-ridge", "name": "West Ridge", "grade": "1+", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "1+", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "Access via the South Forbes Glacier can be tricky and is the crux of the climb. Once Revelation\r\nCol is reached, ascend easy rock directly to the summit." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Edgar Williams, S H Barnett, Bruce N Turner, Jan 1933" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/canterbury/two-thumb-range/the-onlooker/south-east-ridge", "name": "South East Ridge", "grade": "1+", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "1+", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "Follow the ridge between the Forbes and South Forbes Glaciers, traversing the Forbes n\u00e9v\u00e9 to\r\nthe final rock ridge which is followed to the top." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Edgar Williams, Stan Barnett, Bruce Turner, January 1933" } ], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki/malte-brun-range/frind-pk": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki/malte-brun-range/frind-pk", "name": "Frind Pk", "altitude": "2448m", "access": null, "description": "Malte Brun Range", "latlng": [ "-43.57265504", "170.32008512" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki/malte-brun-range/frind-pk/cascade-glacier", "name": "From Cascade Glacier", "grade": "2-", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "2-", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "Easily climbed from either the Cascade Glacier or by the ridge from the Murchison Glacier. The ridge from the Murchison Glacier has a small notch in it." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "R M Crockett, W G McClymont, J H Rose, F F Simmons, Dec 1934" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki/malte-brun-range/frind-pk/north-face", "name": "North Face", "grade": "2", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "2", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "From the Baker Glacier, direct to summit." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "B Waterhouse, Dec 1986" } ], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/canterbury/arrowsmith-range/tent-pk": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/canterbury/arrowsmith-range/tent-pk", "name": "Tent Pk", "altitude": "2448m", "access": null, "description": "na", "latlng": [ "-43.342159", "171.020908" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/canterbury/arrowsmith-range/tent-pk/north-east-ridge", "name": "North East Ridge", "grade": null, "topo_ref": "NE", "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "From Groove Col climb firm rock on the east face to join the ridge, then negotiate large towers\r\nto the summit." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Bill Beaven, Earle Riddiford, April 1947" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/canterbury/arrowsmith-range/tent-pk/north-face", "name": "North Face", "grade": "2", "topo_ref": "NF", "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "2", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "From the head of the Cameron Glacier follow the broad buttress that joins the summit ridge\r\njust before the top." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Roy Twyneham, William MacBeth, Rex Booth, R A Winn, March 1935" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/canterbury/arrowsmith-range/tent-pk/north-couloir", "name": "North Couloir", "grade": "3-", "topo_ref": "NC", "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "3-", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "Take the gully that leads from the Cameron Glacier directly to the summit." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Lindsay Main, James Jenkins, 1973" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/canterbury/arrowsmith-range/tent-pk/north-west-buttress", "name": "North West Buttress", "grade": "3-", "topo_ref": "NW", "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "3-", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "rom the base of the North West Buttress, climb ledges on the left until about half-height.\r\nClimb a short pitch at about rock grade 10 in a gully on the south-west side and scramble to\r\njoin the summit ridge about 50 metres north-east of the summit." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "John Cousins, Bruce Harrison, November 1962" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/canterbury/arrowsmith-range/tent-pk/west-face", "name": "West Face", "grade": null, "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "From the Cameron Glacier." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Dave Fearnley, John McCallum, July 1988" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/canterbury/arrowsmith-range/tent-pk/south-couloir", "name": "South Couloir", "grade": "2-", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "2-", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "Climb the steep snow couloir, watching for rock fall. Lack of snow leaves steep, compact scree\r\nand gullies to the top." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Evan Wilson, Jim Wilson, Andy Anderson, January 1931" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/canterbury/arrowsmith-range/tent-pk/south-west-ridge", "name": "South West Ridge", "grade": null, "topo_ref": "SW", "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "The South West Ridge can be reached via a couloir from the Cameron Glacier or from the lower\r\nvalley leading to Peg Col. Travel is straightforward to Pt 2366 metres, but the ridge is narrow,\r\ntricky and exposed from there to Tent Peak." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Jack Hill, D Kett, December 1963" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/canterbury/arrowsmith-range/tent-pk/east-face", "name": "East Face", "grade": "2-", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "2-", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "From the valley leading to Peg Col, climb snowfields and gullies to a couloir, just north of the\r\nsummit, that provides the best access to the ridge. The summit ridge has small towers and the\r\nlast 20 metres is loose." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Bill Beaven, Earle Riddiford (descended), April 1947" } ], "places": [], "image": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/wide/public/image/Tent_0.png?itok=bTXuaTxE", "images": [ { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/wide/public/image/Tent_0.png?itok=bTXuaTxE", "height": "581", "width": "900" }, { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/image/Tent1.png?itok=aQCpaVq9", "height": "224", "width": "325" } ] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/canterbury/two-thumb-range/electra": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/canterbury/two-thumb-range/electra", "name": "Electra", "altitude": "2447m", "access": null, "description": "tba", "latlng": [ "-43.594137", "170.7157502" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/canterbury/two-thumb-range/electra/north-east-ridge", "name": "North East Ridge", "grade": "2", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "2", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "Reach the North East Ridge from Athene Col. Follow the ridge, sometimes using ledges on the\r\nnorth-west side. A short rock step approximately 100 metres from the summit is followed by\r\ngood rock to the top." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Nel Caine, David Turnbull, Chris Piper, Colin Burrows, April 1966" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/canterbury/two-thumb-range/electra/south-ridge", "name": "South Ridge", "grade": "2-", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "2-", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "Follow the creek draining the south side of Electra, avoiding the two lower sections of bluffs.\r\nThen climb gullies and the broken ridge to the top." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Nel Caine, David Turnbull, Chris Piper, Colin Burrows (descended), April 1966" } ], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/canterbury/gamack-range/pt-2447": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/canterbury/gamack-range/pt-2447", "name": "Pt 2447", "altitude": "2447m", "access": null, "description": ".", "latlng": [ "-43.76065781", "170.30208813" ], "routes": [], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/%C5%8Dhau-landsborough/main-divide/mt-browning": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/%C5%8Dhau-landsborough/main-divide/mt-browning", "name": "Mt Browning", "altitude": "2446m", "access": null, "description": null, "latlng": [ "-43.8422", "169.8541" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/%C5%8Dhau-landsborough/main-divide/mt-browning/south-west-ar%C3%AAte", "name": "South West Ar\u00eate", "grade": "2+", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "2+", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": null } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": "From the central Foster Glacier take a snow route past Mt Marchant to gain\nthe south west ar\u00eate and from there, up to the summit.\nSixty four years later, a better approach appears to be via the snow slopes\nof the Foster Glacier aiming north of Mt Browning, to reach the main Divide,\nthen easy travel south along the Divide to the summit.", "ascent": "B.N.Challis, Lyn Challis, November 1938" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/%C5%8Dhau-landsborough/main-divide/mt-browning/hawkes-bay-glacier", "name": "From the Hawkes Bay Glacier", "grade": "2+", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "2+", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": null } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": "From the Hawkes Bay Glacier climb the north face to the summit.", "ascent": "Phil Grover, Kevin Helm, John Nankervis, February 1983" } ], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/canterbury/armoury-range/spearpoint-pk": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/canterbury/armoury-range/spearpoint-pk", "name": "Spearpoint Pk", "altitude": "2446m", "access": null, "description": null, "latlng": [ "-43.340473", "170.84178" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/canterbury/armoury-range/spearpoint-pk/south-east-ridge", "name": "South East Ridge", "grade": null, "topo_ref": "SE", "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "A straightforward climb from Toledo Col." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Ed Cotter, Robin Johnson, December 1946" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/canterbury/armoury-range/spearpoint-pk/shanks-face", "name": "Shanks Face", "grade": null, "topo_ref": "SF", "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "From the head of McCoy Stream, gain the snow basin north-east of Spearpoint Peak. Head\r\ndirectly up, mostly scrambling but a rope may be necessary." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Roger Foley, George Kendall, John Wild, Ross Gooder, J Swadling, John Nankervis, August 1969" } ], "places": [], "image": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/wide/public/image/Spearpoint.png?itok=NpIlZPvN", "images": [ { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/wide/public/image/Spearpoint.png?itok=NpIlZPvN", "height": "582", "width": "900" } ] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aspiring/olivine-range/climax-pk": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aspiring/olivine-range/climax-pk", "name": "Climax Pk", "altitude": "2446m", "access": null, "description": null, "latlng": [ "-44.45640892", "168.36494412" ], "routes": [], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/canterbury-westland-alps/adams-range/mt-kensington": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/canterbury-westland-alps/adams-range/mt-kensington", "name": "Mt Kensington", "altitude": "2444m", "access": null, "description": "There are also some significant unclimbed rock ribs off the North Ridge into both the Poerua and Alpheus Creek that would be worth investigating.", "latlng": [ "-43.29082006", "170.63855389" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/westland/adams-range/mt-kensington/west-angel-col-kensington-great-unknown", "name": "West from Angel Col, (Kensington to The Great Unknown)", "grade": null, "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "The high snow plateau between Mts Hulka and Farrar can be accessed up crevassed snowslopes from Angel Col, but later in the season this route can get cut off. Alternatively, the Arethusa can be used for access, but this can get very difficult too. However, once on this plateau, Farrar, Hulka and Kensington are readily approached. Other peaks and cols in this block are accessible from the western end of the Garden of Eden, once referred to as the Western Lawn. Travel along this western section of the Garden of Eden can sometimes be a bit tight now under pt 2020m, where crevasses below and bits of ice debris from above sometimes meet, but it always remains travellable." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": null }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/westland/adams-range/mt-kensington/south-ridge-iceland-col", "name": "South Ridge from Iceland Col", "grade": "2", "topo_ref": "SR", "image": null, "images": [], "length": "0m", "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "2", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "" } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": "0", "natural_pro": false, "description": "Early in the season, this can be an easy snow climb from Iceland Col, but later on schrunds can increase difficulties. Alternatively, from the upper Arethusa, snowslopes lead up onto the east ridge which can be followed to the summit. Access up the Arethusa Icefall is getting increasingly difficult.", "ascent": "John Pascoe, A F Pearson, H A McDowall, H M Sweeney, 28 December 1935" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/westland/adams-range/mt-kensington/east-ridge", "name": "East Ridge", "grade": "2", "topo_ref": "ER", "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "2", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "A mix of rock and snow travel. The east ridge is easily approached from the upper Arethusa Glacier and travel on the upper section straight forward." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Alan Stevens, John Fabian, and Graham Craig, 29th December 1958." }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/canterbury-westland-alps/adams-range/mt-kensington/adams-range-traverse", "name": "Adams Range Traverse", "grade": "2,IV", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": "0m", "pitches": [ { "alpine": "2", "commitment": "IV", "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": null } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": "0", "natural_pro": false, "description": "An alpine range traverse. Travel from 2194m through towards 2042m is easy. Beyond, the first traverse party reported interesting rock climbing in places, but continued to make steady progress along the range, reaching Barlow Saddle the same day. Rock was variable, with them cutting steps in loose steep schist rock at one point. Much of the range from pt 1528m to pt 1605m is tussock and short grass, and there are some wonderful campsites with tarns between pt 1576m and pt 1557m. A short section between pt 1557m and pt 1605m is exposed and loose in places, with small tussocky pinnacles. Beyond, the ridge broadens into gravel leading to the West Ridge of Kensington, where snow gullies lead through to the summit if required. Howitt and Gill fixed climbed a few hundred metres of the razorback rock ridge dividing the Poeroa from the Barlow before a 60m 'vertical razorback' forced them down onto the snow route up.\nFirst traversed as part of a six day trip that climbed Mt Adams, traversed the Adams Range to Mt Kensington then descended most of the north ridge of Kensington before being forced to abseil off it into the head of the Poerua Valley. Their packs weighed about 12kg, they took two ropes, one 40m the other lighter and about 12m, a piton for emergencies, but no tent or primus.", "ascent": "Gordon Howitt, Alan Gill, 29\u201330 December 1963" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/westland/adams-range/mt-kensington/west-ridge", "name": "West Ridge", "grade": "2+", "topo_ref": "WR", "image": null, "images": [], "length": "0m", "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "2+", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "" } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": "0", "natural_pro": false, "description": "From the Poerua-Barlow saddle (between pts 1576m and 1557m), easy walking on the ridge leads to about the 1900m contour where the ridge becomes razorbacked. The first ascent party climbed most of this before gaining a snow couloir and ascending that through to the summit.", "ascent": "Gordon Howitt, Alan Gill, December 1962" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/westland/adams-range/mt-kensington/north-ridge", "name": "North Ridge", "grade": "3", "topo_ref": "NR", "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "3", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "From the North Poerua Glacier sidle east past pt 2177m to the col under the buttress dividing Alpheus Creek from the South Poerua, or else reach here from Alpheus Creek itself. Snow gullies lead to the col from both sides in early summer, but watch for stonefall, especially on the Poeroa side. \r\n\r\nAbove the col, the most difficult climbing is in the first 50m on sometimes loose and sometimes firm schist. The first ascent route climbed directly from the col, turning slabby bluffs a short way up out to climbers left in a shallow flaky corner and continued more or less directly up to the top of the buttress. Above, pt 2332m can be bypassed closeby on snow to the east. A snow arete then leads to the last series of steps. These have reasonable rock, but are still demanding and an alternative is to sidle on snowslopes to the west, returning directly to the summit." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "G Spearpoint, L Duff, Dec 1974" } ], "places": [], "image": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/wide/public/image/P197.png?itok=OMIsQcr3", "images": [ { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/wide/public/image/P197.png?itok=OMIsQcr3", "height": "900", "width": "636" } ] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/c58dhau-landsborough/ben-ohau-range/mt-cran": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/c58dhau-landsborough/ben-ohau-range/mt-cran", "name": "Mt Cran", "altitude": "2444m", "access": null, "description": "(L to R) Mt Cran - Feared by the Bad, Delirium, Deep Purple, Monkey Puzzle.\n(L to R) Mt Lloyd - Craig, Shadows, Thar She Goes", "latlng": [ "-43.8055", "170.0527" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/%C5%8Dhau-landsborough/ben-ohau-range/mt-cran/west-ridge", "name": "West Ridge", "grade": "2,II", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": "2", "commitment": "II", "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": null } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": "From the head of Freds Stream, follow the snowy gully to the Ben Ohau Range between Pt 2276m and Pt 2315m. Traverse Pt 2315m to gain the west ridge of Mt Cran or sidle around it 200m below the saddle on the Dobson side.", "ascent": "First ascent unknown" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/%C5%8Dhau-landsborough/ben-ohau-range/mt-cran/feared-bad", "name": "Feared By The Bad", "grade": "14,4,IV", "topo_ref": "A", "image": null, "images": [], "length": "300m", "pitches": [ { "alpine": "4", "commitment": "IV", "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": "300m", "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": "14", "description": null } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": "On the left side of the south face are five obvious ribs. This route takes the central rib. Start on the left side of first overhangs, then follow the crest of the rib. Move to the left at the top. Some splintered rock in places.", "ascent": "Bill McLeod, January 1995" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/%C5%8Dhau-landsborough/ben-ohau-range/mt-cran/delirium", "name": "Delirium", "grade": "4,IV", "topo_ref": "B", "image": null, "images": [], "length": "300m", "pitches": [ { "alpine": "4", "commitment": "IV", "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": "300m", "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": null } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": "The left side of the south face comprises rock ribs divided by deep gullies. Delirium ascends the relatively shallow gully in the centre of the face and is noticeable for its even angle. There is a short mixed crux at the top.", "ascent": "Jonathon Baird, Bill McLeod, October 1996" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/%C5%8Dhau-landsborough/ben-ohau-range/mt-cran/central-couloir", "name": "Central Couloir", "grade": "2+,II", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": "2+", "commitment": "II", "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": null } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": "Climb the low-angle couloir in the centre of the south face.", "ascent": "Steve Fortune, Jaap Overtoom, Duncan Sherratt, July 2005" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/%C5%8Dhau-landsborough/ben-ohau-range/mt-cran/deep-purple", "name": "Deep Purple", "grade": "14,4,IV", "topo_ref": "C", "image": null, "images": [], "length": "700m", "pitches": [ { "alpine": "4", "commitment": "IV", "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": "700m", "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": "14", "description": null } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": "Ascend the central rock buttress to finish 40m right of the summit of Mt Cran. The first two pitches pass just left of overhangs (crux). Gain a sharply defined crest and follow it to the top of the buttress \u2013 450m of \u2018make you think\u2019 climbing and then 250m of easy-angled terrain to the summit.", "ascent": "Bill McLeod, December 1994" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/%C5%8Dhau-landsborough/ben-ohau-range/mt-cran/monkey-puzzle", "name": "Monkey Puzzle", "grade": "12,4,III", "topo_ref": "D", "image": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/route/S100-3347.jpg?itok=LxzmKf4B", "images": [ { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/route/S100-3347.jpg?itok=LxzmKf4B", "height": "244", "width": "325" } ], "length": "250m", "pitches": [ { "alpine": "4", "commitment": "III", "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": "250m", "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": "12", "description": null } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": "Climb the right-hand buttress below the east shoulder of Mt Cran. The first pitch is steepish when climbed direct but can be bypassed on the right-hand side on much easier ground. Once above, the first ascent went up the centre of the buttress on mostly sound, juggy rock. Variations exist that may push the grade up.", "ascent": "Bill McLeod, January 1995" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/%C5%8Dhau-landsborough/ben-ohau-range/mt-cran/east-ridge", "name": "East Ridge", "grade": "2,II", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": "2", "commitment": "II", "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": null } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": "From the head of Freds Stream, gain the saddle between Mts Lloyd and Cran and follow the ridge to the summit. Probably the route of the first ascent by Conrad Kain and H N P Sloman by traversing Mt Lloyd.", "ascent": "Conrad Kain, H N P Sloman, March 1916" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/%C5%8Dhau-landsborough/ben-ohau-range/mt-cran/east-face", "name": "East Face", "grade": "2,II", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": "2", "commitment": "II", "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": null } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": "In the upper Birch Hill Stream, follow the southern branch of the stream across tussock-covered fans until a couloir leads up towards the peak. Ascend the couloir, then angle onto the upper snow slope near the summit.", "ascent": "Ross Cullen, Peter Fowler, December 1990" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/%C5%8Dhau-landsborough/ben-ohau-range/mt-cran/north-ridge", "name": "North Ridge", "grade": "1+,II", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": "1+", "commitment": "II", "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": null } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": "From Jamieson Saddle, traverse the ridge, turning obstacles on the west side.", "ascent": "Mike Andrews, Mal Clarborough, Jim Jolly, January 1972" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/%C5%8Dhau-landsborough/ben-ohau-range/mt-cran/west-face", "name": "West Face", "grade": null, "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": "No recorded ascent. The west face of Mt Cran appears climbable by following the tributary of the Dobson directly to the north-western slopes and from there to the summit.", "ascent": null } ], "places": [], "image": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/wide/public/image/39_0_0.jpeg?itok=Y2OvsUG-", "images": [ { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/wide/public/image/39_0_0.jpeg?itok=Y2OvsUG-", "height": "485", "width": "900" } ] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki/liebig-range/mt-tamaki": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki/liebig-range/mt-tamaki", "name": "Mt Tamaki", "altitude": "2444m", "access": null, "description": "tba", "latlng": [ "-43.63342104", "170.3437369" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki/liebig-range/mt-tamaki/from-the-murchison", "name": "From the Murchison", "grade": null, "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "Easy scrambling from the Murchison." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Thomas Brodrick, Louis Sladden, 1892" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki/liebig-range/mt-tamaki/from-the-cass-valley", "name": "From the Cass Valley", "grade": null, "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "From the Cass Valley. Ascend easy snow slopes, at the head of the Ailsa Stream, to the south of the peak. From the north, traverse the ridge line from Rutherford Pass over spot height 2382m." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": null } ], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki/liebig-range/mt-phyllis": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki/liebig-range/mt-phyllis", "name": "Mt Phyllis", "altitude": "2444m", "access": null, "description": "tba", "latlng": [ "-43.51114873", "170.42695999" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki/liebig-range/mt-phyllis/unnamed", "name": "Unnamed", "grade": null, "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "An easy climb along a snow ridge from Classen Saddle. Alternatively, from the Aida Glacier climb to the col east of the peak and then up to the summit." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "(Probably) Otto Frind, Conrad Kain, Mar 1914" } ], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/canterbury/gamack-range/pt-2444": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/canterbury/gamack-range/pt-2444", "name": "Pt 2444", "altitude": "2444m", "access": null, "description": ".", "latlng": [ "-43.7015974", "170.35686359" ], "routes": [], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/canterbury/jollie-range/bastion-pks": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/canterbury/jollie-range/bastion-pks", "name": "Bastion Pks", "altitude": "2441m", "access": null, "description": "na", "latlng": [ "-43.301196", "171.014729" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/canterbury/jollie-range/bastion-pks/south-east-face", "name": "South East Face", "grade": "2", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "2", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "From slopes below the Assault Glacier, move right about 500 metres then ascend directly to the\r\nsummit via a series of linked snow gullies." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Peter Bain, Dave Massam, Stella Sweney, John Sweney, Tim Ford, Dave Kennedy, December" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/canterbury/jollie-range/bastion-pks/north-east-ridge", "name": "North East Ridge", "grade": "1+", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "1+", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "The steep spur opposite Banfield Hut provides a direct route to the plateau north-east of\r\nBastion Peaks. Alternatively, travel up Jagged Stream towards the Assault Glacier and traverse\r\nbelow the rock face to the basin. A cone of scree leads to a prominent couloir (watch for rock\r\nfall). From within the couloir, move right above bluffs and onto the North East Ridge, which\r\noffers easy climbing to the summit." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "John Pascoe, Stan Conway, April 1952" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/canterbury/jollie-range/bastion-pks/north-spur", "name": "North Spur", "grade": "1", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "1", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "Originally climbed via Mt Medhurst from a camp at Washbourne Hut. From the col between\r\nMt Medhurst and Bastion Peaks take the north spur directly to the summit." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Stan Davis, Rod Sinclair, 1935" } ], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/canterbury-westland-alps/main-divide/erewhon-pk": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/canterbury-westland-alps/main-divide/erewhon-pk", "name": "Erewhon Pk", "altitude": "2440m", "access": null, "description": null, "latlng": [ "-43.213434", "170.921259" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/canterbury-westland-alps/main-divide/erewhon-pk/north-east-ridge", "name": "North East Ridge", "grade": "2-", "topo_ref": "NE", "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "2-", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "First climbed en route to first ascent of Mt Whitcombe\u2019s North East Ridge.\r\nFollow the rock ridge from Erewhon Col to the summit." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Roger Chester, Alan Willis, Bill Mirams, December 1931" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/canterbury-westland-alps/main-divide/erewhon-pk/ramsay-face", "name": "Ramsay Face", "grade": null, "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "Follow a couloir to the left of the lowest rock buttress, take a diagonal traverse and eventually\r\nreach easy snow slopes to the summit." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "J Hulmes, Wil Lammerink, 1972" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/canterbury-westland-alps/main-divide/erewhon-pk/west-flank", "name": "West Flank", "grade": "1+", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "1+", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "From the unnamed glacier between the Bracken and Snow Dome, a gravel shelf leads diagonally\r\nup to the wide, flat col 300 metres north-east of Erewhon Peak. A moderate snow shoulder\r\nleads on to the peak. Alternatively, from the unnamed glacier follow up the glacial shelf north\r\nof Mt Whitcombe and follow the west ridge, sidling on the northern slopes as necessary." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": null } ], "places": [], "image": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/wide/public/image/Erewhon.png?itok=r0Imy8oV", "images": [ { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/wide/public/image/Erewhon.png?itok=r0Imy8oV", "height": "583", "width": "900" } ] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/c58dhau-landsborough/hooker-range/awatea-pk": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/c58dhau-landsborough/hooker-range/awatea-pk", "name": "Awatea Pk", "altitude": "2440m", "access": null, "description": null, "latlng": [ "-43.72709562409", "170.00484453854" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/westland/hooker-range/awatea-pk/west-ridge", "name": "West Ridge", "grade": "3-", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "3-", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": null } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": "Awatea is a characteristic McKerrow Glacier peak, prominent dip slope on the\nwest side and steep scarp on the east. From Douglas Pass climb the spur to\nthe snowfield on the west side of the range and surmount the three rock\ntowers to reach the peak.", "ascent": "Archie Scott, Graham Riley, Christopher Johnson, December 1935" } ], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/canterbury/jollie-range/pt-2440": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/canterbury/jollie-range/pt-2440", "name": "Pt 2440", "altitude": "2440m", "access": null, "description": null, "latlng": [ "-43.304819", "170.99576" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/canterbury/jollie-range/pt-2440/north-west-ridge", "name": "North West Ridge", "grade": "2-", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "2-", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "Reach the small col east of Pt 2165 metres, climbing the last few metres on steep loose rock.\r\nThen follow the North West Ridge to the summit." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": null } ], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/main-divide-of-the-southern-alps/mt-sutton-turner": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/main-divide-of-the-southern-alps/mt-sutton-turner", "name": "Mt Sutton-Turner", "altitude": "2437m", "access": null, "description": "tba", "latlng": [ "-43.42730492", "170.51279068" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/main-divide-of-the-southern-alps/mt-sutton-turner/north-ridge", "name": "North Ridge", "grade": null, "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "Reach Jacqueline Col from the Neish Plateau or Mawson Glacier via Mt Walton." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "David Hall, Gordon (Snow) Mace, Nov 1935" } ], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki/sealy-range/mt-massey": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki/sealy-range/mt-massey", "name": "Mt Massey", "altitude": "2436m", "access": null, "description": "Sealy Range", "latlng": [ "-43.76042", "170.03497" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki/sealy-range/mt-massey/mettelille-sladden-glaciers", "name": "From Mettelille & Sladden Glaciers", "grade": "1", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "1", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "Routes may be found almost anywhere up either the North Face from the Metelille Glacier or the short South Face from the Sladden Glacier. Rock buttresses further down the South Face should give good rock climbing." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Hugh Wright, J Robertson, Feb 1915." } ], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki/the-sierra-range/blizzard-pk": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki/the-sierra-range/blizzard-pk", "name": "Blizzard Pk", "altitude": "2435m", "access": null, "description": "Good skiing above the Horace Walker Glacier.", "latlng": null, "routes": [], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/%C5%8Dhau-landsborough/huxley-range/abseil-pk": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/%C5%8Dhau-landsborough/huxley-range/abseil-pk", "name": "Abseil Pk", "altitude": "2435m", "access": null, "description": null, "latlng": [ "-44.0621", "169.6778" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/%C5%8Dhau-landsborough/huxley-range/abseil-pk/north-ridge", "name": "North Ridge", "grade": "1", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "1", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": null } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": "From the Huxley-Hunter Col climb along the ridge to reach the summit.", "ascent": "Peter Barker, John Chivers, Frank Graveson December 1958" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/%C5%8Dhau-landsborough/huxley-range/abseil-pk/messenger", "name": "Messenger", "grade": "16,5-", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": "450m", "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "5-", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": "450m", "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": "16", "description": null } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": "The route is accessed from the South Huxley Valley and by abseil from the col\njust north of Mt Huxley. The route begins at the lowest point in the centre\nof the south west face on a rock pedestal and follow the prominent buttress\ndirect to the summit. Sustained steep rock with crux pitches of excellent\nquality give 450m of climbing at grade 14-16.", "ascent": "Bill McLeod, February 1995" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/%C5%8Dhau-landsborough/huxley-range/abseil-pk/hunter-valley", "name": "From the Hunter Valley", "grade": "3-", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "3-", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": null } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": "From the head of the tributary of the Hunter River which runs closest to\nForbes Hut, climb to the col just to the north of Abseil Peak 2435 and\nscramble from there to the top.", "ascent": "Peter Barker, John Chivers, FrankGraveson, December 1957" } ], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/canterbury/two-thumb-range/priam": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/canterbury/two-thumb-range/priam", "name": "Priam", "altitude": "2435m", "access": null, "description": "tba", "latlng": [ "-43.57854469", "170.7179207" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/canterbury/two-thumb-range/priam/north-ridge", "name": "North Ridge", "grade": "1", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "1", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "After a straightforward climb to Cassandra Col, climb rotten rock on the North Ridge, bypassing\r\nthe worst sections on scree." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "David Turnbull, Colin Burrows (descended) March 1967" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/canterbury/two-thumb-range/priam/south-west-ridge", "name": "South West Ridge", "grade": "1", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "1", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "Gain the ridge via a steep scramble from Iliad Basin, then scramble along a narrow and rotten\r\nrock ridge and traverse a short ice patch to the summit.\r\nThe South West Ridge can also be reached via Odyssey Basin and the small hanging valley\r\nimmediately south of Priam." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "David Turnbull, Colin Burrows, March 1967" } ], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/%C5%8Dhau-landsborough/main-divide/mt-jackson": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/%C5%8Dhau-landsborough/main-divide/mt-jackson", "name": "Mt Jackson", "altitude": "2434m", "access": null, "description": null, "latlng": [ "-43.89254804", "169.79304005" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/%C5%8Dhau-landsborough/main-divide/mt-jackson/north-ridgewest-face", "name": "North Ridge/West Face", "grade": "2+", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "2+", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": null } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": "Travel along the divide just on the west side, avoiding a bluffy section near\nMt Hickson. Gaining the summit is easier via a couloir up the western face\nbetween the southern and central towers, followed by a short scramble to the\ntop of the central tower.", "ascent": "First ascent via west face unknown" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/%C5%8Dhau-landsborough/main-divide/mt-jackson/east-face", "name": "East Face", "grade": "2+", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "2+", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": null } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": "The steep east face of Jackson is a lee slope, accumulates snow, and sheds\nmajor avalanches into the North Elcho valley. A route up the face can be\nclimbed from the North Elcho Stream beyond the end of the Beech forest. Cross\nto the true right of the stream and pull through sub-alpine scrub and tussock\nonto a prominent rib. A small bivvy site under a rock on the ridge provides\nspace for 2-3 persons, with other tent sites nearby. Follow the obvious rib\nup the face to reach pleasant rock ledges and the north end of the summit\npyramid. A difficult cheval is required to reach the summit.", "ascent": "Jim Dawson, Christopher Johnson, Scott Russell December 1934" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/%C5%8Dhau-landsborough/main-divide/mt-jackson/south-ridge", "name": "South Ridge", "grade": "3", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "3", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": null } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": "Beginning near the fork in the Elcho Stream, plod up the Moore Glacier aiming\nfor the prominent spur which runs down from the south end of the summit\ntowers. The rock on this rib is reported to be solid and provides good access\nto the south summit.", "ascent": "Des Beatty, Alan McNaught December 1953" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/%C5%8Dhau-landsborough/main-divide/mt-jackson/west-face-central-buttress", "name": "West Face Central Buttress", "grade": "14,3,III", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": "3", "commitment": "III", "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": "14", "description": null } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": "A sustained climb on solid rock which leads directly to the high peak. The initial pitches are the steepest (grade 14) before things lay back higher up.", "ascent": "Nina Dickerhof, James Thornton, January 2018" } ], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/c58dhau-landsborough/ben-ohau-range/kaimakamaka-pks": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/c58dhau-landsborough/ben-ohau-range/kaimakamaka-pks", "name": "Kaimakamaka Pks", "altitude": "2431m", "access": null, "description": "The summits of Pt 2431 and its immediate neighbour at Pt 2392 are easily visible from Twizel, to the east of Mackenzie Peak.", "latlng": [ "-43.9818", "170.0546" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/%C5%8Dhau-landsborough/ben-ohau-range/kaimakamaka-pks/jacks-stream", "name": "From Jacks Stream", "grade": "1,I", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": "1", "commitment": "I", "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": null } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": "From Jacks Stream, take the obvious spur beside the first major subsidiary stream, climb past the tarn, and then up the east ridge to Pt 2392m. From here, it\u2019s an easy traverse to Pt 2431m. Alternatively, from upper Jacks Stream, ascend the north-facing scree directly to the high peak.", "ascent": "First ascent unknown" } ], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aspiring/commissioner-range/helena-pk": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aspiring/commissioner-range/helena-pk", "name": "Helena Pk", "altitude": "2430m", "access": null, "description": "tba", "latlng": [ "-44.23098587", "168.8653516" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aspiring/commissioner-range/helena-pk/from-the-wilkin", "name": "From the Wilkin", "grade": "III,2", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": "III", "mtcook": "2", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "Approached from North Wilkin (as with Bluffs Route) and climbed from the col between it and Pollux." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "H W Edwards, J F Foster, W E Wilson, Jan 1934." } ], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/westland/tensing-ridge-west-ridge-off-mt-lambert/mt-lambert": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/westland/tensing-ridge-west-ridge-off-mt-lambert/mt-lambert", "name": "Mt Lambert", "altitude": "2430m", "access": null, "description": "na", "latlng": [ "-43.29114134", "170.74331777" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/westland/tensing-ridge-west-ridge-off-mt-lambert/mt-lambert/north", "name": "From the North", "grade": "1+", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "1+", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "From the col under pt 1936m.From the col, climb through lower bluffs to gain the snowslopes of a tiny glacier. Head SSE up this and gain the final ridge just east of the summit." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "LW Boot, IW Tucker and H Andrewes first ascent 30th Dec 1933, from the col north of Lambert up the small glacier between two ridges." }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/westland/tensing-ridge-west-ridge-off-mt-lambert/mt-lambert/east-ridge", "name": "East Ridge", "grade": "2", "topo_ref": "ER", "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "2", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "Gaining the ridge from the Lambert Neve is usually straight forward. In places the ridge is easy, while elsewhere, the ridge is interesting mixed climbing without being technically difficult." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Ken Rowe, Stan Conway, 23 March, 1940." }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/westland/tensing-ridge-west-ridge-off-mt-lambert/mt-lambert/south-face", "name": "South Face", "grade": "2+", "topo_ref": "SF", "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "2+", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "A moving feast, ice on this face is generally quite broken and travel threatened by seracs. Crevasses frequently cut access up the face as early as late spring. However, in good snow conditions, a route through can sometimes be found. If the south west ridge is gained before the summit, an anvil shaped gendarme forming the low peak can be bypassed." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": null }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/westland/tensing-ridge-west-ridge-off-mt-lambert/mt-lambert/south-west-ridge", "name": "South West Ridge", "grade": "2+", "topo_ref": "SWR", "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "2+", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "A mixed rock and snow ridge. No great difficulties, but care required in places on average rock. An anvil shaped gendarme forming the low peak can be bypassed." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Alan Stevens, John Fabian, and Graham Craig, 29th December 1958." } ], "places": [], "image": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/wide/public/image/Lambert_0.jpg?itok=fzFou-Aa", "images": [ { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/wide/public/image/Lambert_0.jpg?itok=fzFou-Aa", "height": "900", "width": "660" }, { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/image/P213.png?itok=9eQnXfH-", "height": "264", "width": "325" } ] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/mt-radove": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/mt-radove", "name": "Mt Radove", "altitude": "2430m", "access": null, "description": null, "latlng": [ "-43.698003", "170.43645429" ], "routes": [], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/c58dhau-landsborough/ben-ohau-range/pt-2428": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/c58dhau-landsborough/ben-ohau-range/pt-2428", "name": "Pt 2428", "altitude": "2428m", "access": null, "description": null, "latlng": [ "-43.8357", "170.0332" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/%C5%8Dhau-landsborough/ben-ohau-range/pt-2428/white-pointer", "name": "White Pointer", "grade": "3+,IV", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": "3+", "commitment": "IV", "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": null } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": "Follow a snow gully right of the central buttress. Above the buttress, move slightly left to gain a deep, narrow runnel and follow it to exit 20m right of the summit. A cornice that forms at the summit can be bypassed on good steep rock.", "ascent": "Bill McLeod, November 1994" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/%C5%8Dhau-landsborough/ben-ohau-range/pt-2428/masquerade", "name": "Masquerade", "grade": "15,4+,IV", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": "450m", "pitches": [ { "alpine": "4+", "commitment": "IV", "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": "450m", "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": "15", "description": null } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": "A long rock route on the south face of the south-east outlier of Pt 2428. Begin on a pedestal on compact grade 12 rock and climb directly towards the left side of the summit overhang. At mid-height, traverse right along a ledge, then climb the upper wall on a system of small features leading towards the left end of the top-most overhang. Fine, sustained climbing on excellent rock with steady climbing on the last pitches providing the crux.", "ascent": "Jonathan Baird, Bill McLeod, December 1994" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/%C5%8Dhau-landsborough/ben-ohau-range/pt-2428/east-ridge", "name": "East Ridge", "grade": "2,II", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": "2", "commitment": "II", "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": null } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": "From the summit of Mt Brown, traverse several towers to reach Pt 2428m.", "ascent": "Andy Macfarlane, Tom Pilkington, 1992" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/%C5%8Dhau-landsborough/ben-ohau-range/pt-2428/east-face", "name": "East Face", "grade": "2,II", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": "2", "commitment": "II", "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": null } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": "A snow-filled gully angling up to the upper snowfield can be sighted from low in the valley of Freds Stream and provides rapid altitude gain. Cross over a small shoulder and angle up the north-east facing slopes to the summit.", "ascent": "Ross Cullen, Dave Craw, November 1991" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/%C5%8Dhau-landsborough/ben-ohau-range/pt-2428/west-ridge", "name": "West Ridge", "grade": null, "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": "From Waterfall Hut follow the north branch of the waterfall stream to reach the west ridge. Continue along the ridge to the high point.", "ascent": "No recorded ascent" } ], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/main-divide-of-the-southern-alps/cumine-pk": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/main-divide-of-the-southern-alps/cumine-pk", "name": "Cumine Pk", "altitude": "2428m", "access": null, "description": null, "latlng": [ "-43.41003586", "170.52995682" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/main-divide-of-the-southern-alps/cumine-pk/south-west-ridge", "name": "South West Ridge", "grade": "1", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "1", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "Traverse along the Main Divide from Gorrie. Alternatively, climb from McKinnon or the col west of, along the Main Divide. Access via the south-west shoulder, from the Neish Plateau, is easy and is also an excellent ski tour." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Johannes Anderson, A Sutton-Turner, Jack Lippe, Will Kennedy, Dec 1920" } ], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/main-divide-of-the-southern-alps/gorrie-pk": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/main-divide-of-the-southern-alps/gorrie-pk", "name": "Gorrie Pk", "altitude": "2425m", "access": null, "description": null, "latlng": [ "-43.41458739", "170.52326202" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/main-divide-of-the-southern-alps/gorrie-pk/north-flank", "name": "North Flank", "grade": "1", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "1", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "Readily approached from the broad Divide snow plateau above the Neish Plateau." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "S A Wiren, E C A Ferrier, G Lockwood, Dec 1934" } ], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aspiring/snowdrift-range/islington-dome": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aspiring/snowdrift-range/islington-dome", "name": "Islington Dome", "altitude": "2425m", "access": null, "description": "tba", "latlng": [ "-44.437349", "168.630553" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aspiring/snowdrift-range/islington-dome/north-east-face", "name": "North East Face", "grade": "II,2", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": "0m", "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": "II", "mtcook": "2", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": null } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": "0", "natural_pro": false, "description": "Follow the route towards Arawhata Saddle. After climbing about half the steep section below the saddle access is obtained to a snow shelf leading out to the south-east, which provides a straightforward route to the summit, with two pitches of steep, loose rock to the summit ridge. About five hours out from the hut. With glacial recession this route may be difficult or dangerous from ice and rockfall.", "ascent": "J Strang and party, 1978" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aspiring/snowdrift-range/islington-dome/east-ridge", "name": "East Ridge", "grade": "2,II", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": "0m", "pitches": [ { "alpine": "2", "commitment": "II", "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": null } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": "0", "natural_pro": false, "description": "The first ascent traversed the ice-field northeast of Liverpool and Islington Dome from Arawhata Saddle then climbed the east ridge. There appears to be no record of a complete ascent from Shovel Flat although the upper part of the ridge was climbed on January 16, 1970, by Brian Chalmers, Jill West, Judy Knewstubb, Rod McKenzie and Don Murray, who gained the ridge by traversing across the Christopher Johnson Glacier.", "ascent": "James Frater, David Gauld, David Smyth, 18 January 1965" } ], "places": [], "image": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/wide/public/image/Plunket_Isling_opt_0.jpeg?itok=V1VsEUzO", "images": [ { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/wide/public/image/Plunket_Isling_opt_0.jpeg?itok=V1VsEUzO", "height": "310", "width": "564" } ] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/canterbury-westland-alps/adams-range/mt-farrar": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/canterbury-westland-alps/adams-range/mt-farrar", "name": "Mt Farrar", "altitude": "2424m", "access": null, "description": null, "latlng": [ "-43.31099615", "170.65626649" ], "routes": [], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/westland/devils-backbone/mt-farrar": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/westland/devils-backbone/mt-farrar", "name": "Mt Farrar", "altitude": "2424m", "access": null, "description": "Captain Farrar was a member of the English Alpine Club in the 1920s?", "latlng": [ "-43.310565", "170.657072" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/westland/devils-backbone/mt-farrar/angel-col", "name": "From Angel Col", "grade": "1+", "topo_ref": "AC", "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "1+", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "A snow climb that varies with the seasons. Slots can cut access at times. When in good condition, usually earlier in the season, this route also offers good access to Iceland Col, Mts Kensington and Hulka. The top of the peaks are small rock scrambles." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "N Barker, GDT Hall 27th Dec 1935 from Agnes Bivvy." }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/westland/devils-backbone/mt-farrar/arethusa-glacier", "name": "From the Arethusa Glacier", "grade": "1+", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "1+", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "The Arethusa Glacier has a couple of icefalls that need to be passed. See the Arethusa Glacier notes above. From the 1940m contour, the usual route is to sidle up snowslopes onto a shoulder off Mt Hulka and cut back south east onto the plateau. A short steeper scramble on rock and gravel leads to the highpoint at 2424m. Between the icefalls in the Arethusa, it is sometimes possible to head south up the true right of an icefall that drains Hulka and Farrar, offering a more direct approach to the plateau north west of Mt Farrar." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": null } ], "places": [], "image": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/wide/public/image/P208_1.png?itok=DgaDpvX4", "images": [ { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/wide/public/image/P208_1.png?itok=DgaDpvX4", "height": "589", "width": "900" } ] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/%C5%8Dhau-landsborough/main-divide/mt-marchant": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/%C5%8Dhau-landsborough/main-divide/mt-marchant", "name": "Mt Marchant", "altitude": "2422m", "access": null, "description": null, "latlng": [ "-43.84", "169.8442" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/%C5%8Dhau-landsborough/main-divide/mt-marchant/col", "name": "From the col", "grade": "2+", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "2+", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": null } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": "Canbe tackled by crossing the Foster glacier to reach the col between Mt\nClarke and Mt Marchant, and from there along the Divide to the summit.", "ascent": "Nick Banks and others 1970s" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/%C5%8Dhau-landsborough/main-divide/mt-marchant/landsborough", "name": "From the Landsborough", "grade": "2+", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "2+", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": null } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": "Acessed from a camp above the Landsborough River.Gain height to reach the col\nbetween Mt Marchant and Mt Clarke, and from the col climb the south ridge to\nthe summit.", "ascent": "Alan McNaught, Jim McNulty, Ray Slater, February 1951" } ], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/canterbury/armoury-range/nym-pk": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/canterbury/armoury-range/nym-pk", "name": "Nym Pk", "altitude": "2420m", "access": null, "description": null, "latlng": [ "-43.34208177", "170.8438742" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/canterbury/armoury-range/nym-pk/north-west-ridge", "name": "North West Ridge", "grade": "2-", "topo_ref": "NW", "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "2-", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "A short climb from Toledo Col." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Ed Cotter, Robin Johnson, December 1946" } ], "places": [], "image": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/wide/public/image/Nym.png?itok=H5jU8U3U", "images": [ { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/wide/public/image/Nym.png?itok=H5jU8U3U", "height": "582", "width": "900" } ] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/canterbury-westland-alps/john-pascoe-ridge/pt-2420": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/canterbury-westland-alps/john-pascoe-ridge/pt-2420", "name": "Pt 2420", "altitude": "2420m", "access": null, "description": "Between Pt 2327 and Newton Pk.", "latlng": [ "-43.318434", "170.705137" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/canterbury-westland-alps/john-pascoe-ridge/pt-2420/garden-eden", "name": "From the Garden of Eden", "grade": "1", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "1", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "Straightforward climbing from the Garden of Eden." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Colin Burrows, F Allan, P Bain, M Hall, January 1953" } ], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/c58dhau-landsborough/ben-ohau-range/pt-2418": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/c58dhau-landsborough/ben-ohau-range/pt-2418", "name": "Pt 2418", "altitude": "2418m", "access": null, "description": null, "latlng": [ "-43.8849", "170.0328" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/%C5%8Dhau-landsborough/ben-ohau-range/pt-2418/trench-warfare", "name": "Trench Warfare", "grade": "6,III,WI5", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": "6", "commitment": "III", "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": "WI5", "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": null } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": "Climb to the left of the central gully, then climb two pitches, then strike out left and climb the right hand of the three waterfalls. Six pitches, a bulgy 25m crux, with a final 50m pitch of water ice.", "ascent": "Steve Carr, Simon Kennedy, Grant Furlong, June 1998" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/%C5%8Dhau-landsborough/ben-ohau-range/pt-2418/sweet-dreams", "name": "Sweet Dreams", "grade": "5,III,WI4", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": "5", "commitment": "III", "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": "WI4", "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": null } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": "Climb to the left of the central gully, then climb two pitches before moving out right. Climb the right-hand 25m waterfall and exit left. Seven pitches with the crux on the waterfall at the sixth pitch.", "ascent": "Steve Carr, Tadhg Lynch, June 1998" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/%C5%8Dhau-landsborough/ben-ohau-range/pt-2418/rude-awakenings", "name": "Rude Awakenings", "grade": "3+,II", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": "3+", "commitment": "II", "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": null } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": "Follow the ramp up onto the south face, cross the snowfield, and follow snow/ice weaknesses to the summit.", "ascent": "Steve Carr, Tadhg Lynch, Aaron Whitehead, Mark McCaughan, June 1998" } ], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/kaikoura/seaward-kaikoura-range/pt-2414": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/kaikoura/seaward-kaikoura-range/pt-2414", "name": "Pt 2414", "altitude": "2414m", "access": null, "description": "Seaward Kaikoura Range", "latlng": [ "-42.1571873", "173.71636907" ], "routes": [], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/%C5%8Dhau-landsborough/huxley-range/soloist-pk": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/%C5%8Dhau-landsborough/huxley-range/soloist-pk", "name": "Soloist Pk", "altitude": "2414m", "access": null, "description": null, "latlng": [ "-44.03943679", "169.70025207" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/%C5%8Dhau-landsborough/huxley-range/soloist-pk/all-one", "name": "All For One", "grade": "4-", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "4-", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": null } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": "Good access onto the east face from the South Huxley valley, up bluffs and\nsnowfields. Head for the buttress on left side of east face and follow this\nin a direct line to finish 100 metres east of the summit. Delicate climbing\non loose rock. 400m.", "ascent": "Bill McLeod February 1996" } ], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/%C5%8Dhau-landsborough/huxley-range/pt-2414": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/%C5%8Dhau-landsborough/huxley-range/pt-2414", "name": "Pt 2414", "altitude": "2414m", "access": null, "description": "The name Gilkison Peak was not accepted by NZ Geographic Board, but this peak is called by that name in the NZAC Barron\u2013Brewster guide.", "latlng": [ "-44.0675881793", "169.664505619" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/%C5%8Dhau-landsborough/huxley-range/pt-2414/north-face", "name": "North Face", "grade": "3-", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "3-", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": null } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": "Follow the stream which joins the Hunter 500m upstream of the footbridge, to\ngain access to the northern slopes of the peak.", "ascent": "Peter Barker, John Chivers, Tony Slaughter, Euan Warburton, 27 December 1960" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/%C5%8Dhau-landsborough/huxley-range/pt-2414/ahuriri", "name": "From the Ahuriri", "grade": "2", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "2", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": null } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": "Climb steepening couloir from head of Ahuriri /Hunter col. 350m mostly easy\nangled with a section of 50-60degees near top before gaining the chossy\nridge 50m east of the summit.", "ascent": "Tony Clarke, Andrew Somervell, November 2008" } ], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/otago/richardson-mountains/pt-2413": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/otago/richardson-mountains/pt-2413", "name": "Pt 2413", "altitude": "2413m", "access": null, "description": "Richardson Mountains", "latlng": [ "-44.72074076", "168.55388885" ], "routes": [], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/canterbury-westland-alps/main-divide/mt-allan-dick": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/canterbury-westland-alps/main-divide/mt-allan-dick", "name": "Mt Allan Dick", "altitude": "2413m", "access": null, "description": "This peak on a ridge south-west of Mt Loughnan (Pt 2413) is well recognised in alpine literature from the 1950s, but is not named on current maps. It was named by the first ascent party after Allan Dick of Lilybank Station, who was very supportive of many climbing parties.", "latlng": [ "-43.437527", "170.46876" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/canterbury-westland-alps/main-divide/mt-allan-dick/east-ridge", "name": "East Ridge", "grade": "2", "topo_ref": "ER", "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "2", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "Access the Nansen Glacier as outlined above. From the col to the east, the peak has been\r\nclimbed up broken rock, moving over towards the south face higher up." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "J Harrison, B Waterhouse, L G Osborne, B H Williams, December 1953" } ], "places": [], "image": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/wide/public/image/Loughnan_2.png?itok=orZVRM6O", "images": [ { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/wide/public/image/Loughnan_2.png?itok=orZVRM6O", "height": "574", "width": "900" } ] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/main-divide-of-the-southern-alps/white-pyramid": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/main-divide-of-the-southern-alps/white-pyramid", "name": "White Pyramid", "altitude": "2412m", "access": null, "description": null, "latlng": [ "-43.41988669", "170.51802635" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/main-divide-of-the-southern-alps/white-pyramid/south-ridge", "name": "South Ridge", "grade": null, "topo_ref": "SR", "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "From the Divide pass at 2250 metres, follow the Main Divide to the summit." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Edgar Williams, A J Scott, R H Booth, Jan 1932" } ], "places": [], "image": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/wide/public/image/Victorie1.jpg?itok=vTrtexUp", "images": [ { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/wide/public/image/Victorie1.jpg?itok=vTrtexUp", "height": "900", "width": "637" } ] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aspiring/olivine-range/destiny-pk": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aspiring/olivine-range/destiny-pk", "name": "Destiny Pk", "altitude": "2411m", "access": null, "description": null, "latlng": [ "-44.45418117", "168.38219978" ], "routes": [], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/canterbury/two-thumb-range/mt-earle": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/canterbury/two-thumb-range/mt-earle", "name": "Mt Earle", "altitude": "2410m", "access": null, "description": "tba", "latlng": [ "-43.48344206", "170.60256958" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/canterbury/two-thumb-range/mt-earle/twilight-col", "name": "From Twilight Col", "grade": null, "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "Climb the rock ridge directly from Twilight Col." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Jim Murphy, Hugh Wright, Feb 1912" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/canterbury/two-thumb-range/mt-earle/south-east-ridge", "name": "South East Ridge", "grade": "1+", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "1+", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "Reach the south face glacier from the head of the Macaulay River and follow the final section\r\nof ridge to the top." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": null } ], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki/burnett-mountains/mt-blackburn-rotten-tommy": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki/burnett-mountains/mt-blackburn-rotten-tommy", "name": "Mt Blackburn (Rotten Tommy)", "altitude": "2409m", "access": null, "description": "tba", "latlng": [ "-43.756104", "170.201515" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki/burnett-mountains/mt-blackburn-rotten-tommy/unnamed", "name": "Unnamed", "grade": null, "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "Climb Gorilla Stream to a scree slope and continue up to a col on the SW ridge via a right branch of scree. Follow the SW ridge to the summit. Gendarmes on the ridge can be turned on the NW side. An alternative route lies up the SW ridge from Tasman Point, traversing Mt Caitriana (1763m) and Cow Block Saddle (1821m) over poor rock." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Jack Clarke, C J Bainbridge, W G Tennant, 1903" } ], "places": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki/burnett-mountains/mt-blackburn-rotten-tommy/north-west-face", "name": "North West Face", "altitude": null, "access": null, "description": "faces north-west", "latlng": null, "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki/burnett-mountains/mt-blackburn-rotten-tommy/north-west-face/mckinnon-route", "name": "McKinnon Route", "grade": "3-", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "3-", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "a line linking the prominent rock spurs" } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Guy McKinnon, summer 2012" } ], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki/burnett-mountains/mt-blackburn-rotten-tommy/south-face", "name": "South Face", "altitude": null, "access": null, "description": "From Chop Creek", "latlng": null, "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki/burnett-mountains/mt-blackburn-rotten-tommy/south-face/central-rib", "name": "Central Rib", "grade": "3-", "topo_ref": null, "image": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/route/JM_Blackburn.jpg?itok=6JAtx6X4", "images": [ { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/route/JM_Blackburn.jpg?itok=6JAtx6X4", "height": "325", "width": "244" } ], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "3-", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "Unexpectedly sound rock lower down leading to mixed sections if early summer or rock there after; the central rib on the south face is the right-hand skyline in photo" } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Jane Morris, summer 2012" } ], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] } ], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aspiring/main-divide/scylla": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aspiring/main-divide/scylla", "name": "Scylla", "altitude": "2409m", "access": null, "description": null, "latlng": [ "-44.388614", "168.753815" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aspiring/main-divide/scylla/east-ridge", "name": "East Ridge", "grade": "II,2", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": "0m", "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": "II", "mtcook": "2", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": null } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": "0", "natural_pro": false, "description": "Follow route 3 until the col between Scylla and Charybdis is reached. The short ridge to the summit is barred by the crux of the climb, a difficult gendarme about 20m high, which is climbed direct. The climb takes about five hours from Moncrieff Col.", "ascent": "Laurie Kennedy, Dave Innes, February 1969" } ], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/arthurs-pass/shaler-range/mt-murchison": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/arthurs-pass/shaler-range/mt-murchison", "name": "Mt Murchison", "altitude": "2408m", "access": null, "description": "Mt Murchison was first climbed by Charles Ward and Arthur Talbot in 1913 from the Waimakariri\nRiver, via the White Glacier and North Ridge.", "latlng": [ "-43.00395668", "171.37676239" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/arthurs-pass/shaler-range/mt-murchison/white-glacier-route", "name": "White Glacier Route", "grade": "1", "topo_ref": "1", "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": "1", "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "The usual route follows the glacier (up the true left of the icefall on an ice ramp) almost to Kahutea Col. Stay close beneath the North Ridge, to avoid the crevasse areas and then ascend the last couloir which joins the ridge near the summit. (Note : Wet snow avalanches or stone-fall are not uncommon in this short 60m couloir!)." } ], "quality": 1, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "C.K. Ward and A.E. Talbot 1913." }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/arthurs-pass/shaler-range/mt-murchison/denas-face-sw-ridge", "name": "Denas Face, via SW Ridge", "grade": "14,3,IV,2+", "topo_ref": "E1467558 N5237364", "image": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/2024-02/image228_0.jpg?itok=bm1EIEVb", "images": [ { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/2024-02/image228_0.jpg?itok=bm1EIEVb", "height": "160", "width": "325" }, { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/2024-02/IMG_0118_0.jpeg?itok=PtL6KN2B", "height": "325", "width": "244" }, { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/2024-02/IMG_0122_0.jpeg?itok=kk0Us5hZ", "height": "325", "width": "244" } ], "length": "65m", "pitches": [ { "alpine": "3", "commitment": "IV", "mtcook": "2+", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": "65m", "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": "14", "description": "The crux is met about 300m before the summit, and takes place on reliable, firm orange rock (solo-able, Ewbank grade 11 - 14 for 30-40m laterally across the face, and 25m vertical, following cracks and ledges, with a couple of zigzags at the end to regain the SW ridge), and is the only solid patch of rock on the route." } ], "quality": 1, "bolts": "0", "natural_pro": false, "description": "\u201cDenas the Menace\u201d. SW ridge Mt Murchison (SW Shaler Range), from Kahutea neve, via upper Denas face to the summit, return.\nFrom Kahutea Col sidle the ice slopes of the Kahutea Glacier n\u00e9v\u00e9 under Mt Murchison southwest for about 350m. This enters into a large bay of steep ice between rocky spurs. Ascend 60m to the top left-hand corner to gain the southwest ridge of Mt Murchison via a short, loose rock step. This route would likely be cut-off by bergschrunds in late summer.\nThe ridge has extensive rotten rock and numerous crumbling gendarmes that need to be avoided by descending north onto the very exposed and steep \u2018Denas Face\u2019. The initial foray onto to the face happens in the first 30m of ridge travel descending a steep gully of vertical bedded rock for about (20m), before sidling out on series of exposed narrow ledges to the nose of a steep rock spur, then reascending towards the ridge. Most travel takes place on the face (well below the crest of the SW ridge). The crux is met about 300m before the summit, and takes place on reliable, firm orange rock (solo-able, Ewbank grade 11 - 14 for 30-40m laterally across the face, and 25m vertical, following cracks and ledges, with a couple of zigzags at the end to regain the SW ridge), and is the only solid patch of rock on the route. Finally scramble to the summit rocks of Murchison.", "ascent": "Joe Nawalaniec. 10.5 hours, 25 Jan 2024." }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/arthurs-pass/shaler-range/mt-murchison/white-glacer-variation", "name": "White Glacer Variation", "grade": "1", "topo_ref": "2", "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": "1", "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "By late summer the above route may be cut by an icecliff for the width of the White Glacier. In this case a good route follows a scree/snow slope adjacent the ridge linking White Col and Kahutea Col. A cross over point onto the White Glacier neve is generally found about 200m up the ridge. In recent years (February) the White Glacier has been cut by a huge bergschrund for its entire width some 150m below Kahutea Col; rock bypasses are very risky to say the least." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": null }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/arthurs-pass/shaler-range/mt-murchison/kahutea-ridge", "name": "Kahutea Ridge", "grade": "2", "topo_ref": "3", "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": "2", "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "The Kahutea ridge can be followed from White Col however be prepared for some very loose, exposed climbs, especially on the final two buttresses." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": null }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/arthurs-pass/shaler-range/mt-murchison/upper-wlberforce-river", "name": "From Upper Wlberforce River", "grade": "3", "topo_ref": "4", "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": "3", "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "From the upper Wilberforce River via Denas Creek, by traversing upstream to a point directly below the summit rocks. A large scree leads up to a long steep couloir which meets the North Ridge not far from the summit. This route is fraught with dangers, avalanche, rock fall, and really rotten rock to name but a few. It is a seasonal route with a very narrow window of safe conditions (typically August to December, daily conditional). Descent is generally made over Kahutea Col, down the Kahutea Glacier (sticking true left), then sidling left diagonally down to gain the slabs and grassed slopes into Weka Stream." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": null }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/arthurs-pass/shaler-range/mt-murchison/kahutea-glacier", "name": "From Kahutea Glacier", "grade": "2", "topo_ref": "KG", "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "2", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "" } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": "Follow the bouldery Weka Stream, to a basin at its head with bluffs on the eastern side. From here continue north along the base of bluffs, beyond the two side creeks draining the foot of the Kahutea Glacier, to a narrow scree slope hidden in the bluffs that trends up and right. Climb the scree and continue traversing up and right, crossing a rock rib above the northern-most of the two creeks that drain the Kahutea Glacier, and make a short descent into this creek down a slab with small ledges. This creek channels serac-fall debris from the snout of the glacier above and should be crossed quickly. Continue climbing up and right, and cross the top of the next side creek draining the glacier ; from here the glacier itself is a short climb. The true left of the glacier generally provides good travel to Kahutea Col ; from here traverse to the North Ridge and scramble up snow and loose rock on the north and east aspects to the summit.", "ascent": "Neville Barker, Charles Gordon Buchanan, December 1934" } ], "places": [], "image": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/wide/public/image/mt%2520murchison%2520from%2520mt%2520harper-routemark.jpg?itok=kUYgfD6Q", "images": [ { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/wide/public/image/mt%2520murchison%2520from%2520mt%2520harper-routemark.jpg?itok=kUYgfD6Q", "height": "604", "width": "900" }, { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/image/AP030.jpg?itok=zjvy1QsS", "height": "218", "width": "325" }, { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/image/Murchison.png?itok=5Rjiy1PD", "height": "212", "width": "325" } ] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/mt-symons": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/mt-symons", "name": "Mt Symons", "altitude": "2408m", "access": null, "description": "Inland Kaikoura Range", "latlng": [ "-42.03374182", "173.57008573" ], "routes": [], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/canterbury/arrowsmith-range/prop-pk": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/canterbury/arrowsmith-range/prop-pk", "name": "Prop Pk", "altitude": "2408m", "access": null, "description": "na", "latlng": [ "-43.334168", "171.020479" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/canterbury/arrowsmith-range/prop-pk/west-ridge", "name": "West Ridge", "grade": "1+", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "1+", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "Reach the West Ridge from Jagged Col. The lowest section of the ridge is trickiest and can be\r\navoided by taking snow slopes on the Jagged Stream side. Once the difficulties are passed, follow\r\nthe rock ridge to the summit." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Bernie McClelland, Ron Ward, Robin Drake, March 1938" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/canterbury/arrowsmith-range/prop-pk/south-east-ridge-cameron-rv", "name": "South East Ridge, from the Cameron Rv", "grade": "2-", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "2-", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "From Peg Col follow the straightforward ridge to Pt 2344 metres. From here the ridge is a little\r\nmore exposed and involves a short downclimb and traverse along a small ledge to bypass a\r\n10-metre gut. A 10-metre section of loose argillite in the final col requires care before the last\r\nrise to the summit." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Dave Hall, Melville (Jim) Glasgow, Thomas (Harry) Scott, Keith Russell, 1950" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/canterbury/arrowsmith-range/prop-pk/south-east-ridge-jagged-stm", "name": "South East Ridge, from Jagged Stm", "grade": "2-", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "2-", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "This ridge can be reached from various points between Prop Peak and Peg Col and is mostly\r\nstraightforward. A 15-metre gut at the low point of the ridge can be downclimbed and traversed\r\non a narrow ledge, and a 10-metre section of loose argillite shortly before the summit requires\r\ncare." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Dave Hall, Thomas (Harry) Scott, Keith Russell, Melville (Jim) Glasgow, January 1950" } ], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/canterbury/jollie-range/mt-gould": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/canterbury/jollie-range/mt-gould", "name": "Mt Gould", "altitude": "2406m", "access": null, "description": "Mt Gould can be used for a long descent of Red Peak when parties are reluctant to downclimb steep\nloose rock.", "latlng": [ "-43.317372", "170.977821" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/canterbury/jollie-range/mt-gould/south-west-ridge", "name": "South West Ridge", "grade": "2", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "2", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "From the Lawrence River climb above the moraine and follow the broad buttress leading to the\r\nsmall glacier on the south side of Mt Gould. Climb the glacier to the South West Ridge and\r\nfollow this to the top." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": null }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/canterbury/jollie-range/mt-gould/east-ridge", "name": "East Ridge", "grade": null, "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "From the Reischek Glacier head around the n\u00e9v\u00e9 under the peak and follow snow to a col east\r\nof the peak. From here follow the ridge to the summit." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": null } ], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/canterbury/two-thumb-range/mt-chevalier": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/canterbury/two-thumb-range/mt-chevalier", "name": "Mt Chevalier", "altitude": "2404m", "access": null, "description": "tba", "latlng": [ "-43.56907878", "170.6513889" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/canterbury/two-thumb-range/mt-chevalier/south-face", "name": "South Face", "grade": "1", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "1", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "Climb straightforward snow slopes from the head of Chevalier Stream to the short west ridge\r\nand follow this to the summit." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Bob Clark-Hall, J L (Pat) Clark-Hall, December 1941" } ], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/canterbury-westland-alps/cloudy-peak-range/trireme-pk": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/canterbury-westland-alps/cloudy-peak-range/trireme-pk", "name": "Trireme Pk", "altitude": "2403m", "access": null, "description": "Trireme has three peaks and was named for its resemblance to the Greek style of warship. The western peak is the highest and was the first to be climbed, from the Agnes Glacier. A traverse of all three peaks involves some time-consuming ridge climbing.", "latlng": [ "-43.367871", "170.714407" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/canterbury/cloudy-peak-range/trireme-pk/agnes-glacier-west-pk", "name": "From Agnes Glacier, West Pk", "grade": null, "topo_ref": "AG", "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": "Climb direct from the glacier. The route of the first ascent.", "ascent": "Neville Barker, Duncan Hall, December 1935" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/canterbury/cloudy-peak-range/trireme-pk/south-east-ridge-west-pk", "name": "South East Ridge, West Pk", "grade": null, "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": "First climbed along the summit ridge from the middle peak during a traverse of all three of Trireme\u2019s peaks.", "ascent": "Richard Studholme, Tom Morton, Peter Bain, December 1966" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/canterbury/cloudy-peak-range/trireme-pk/south-west-ridge-middle-pk", "name": "South West Ridge, Middle Pk", "grade": "2", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "2", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": null } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": "From Veil Bivouac, head up Veil Stream and follow the Clover Glacier to gain the ridge at the prominent col between the Middle Peak and Helmet Peak. An easier route may be to climb direct to Orb Col from the junction of Veil Stream and the Havelock River, and then sidle Helmet Peak on its north side. Depending on conditions, either choose a route from the small glacier west of the peak or follow the north-west side of the South West Ridge on generally good rock.", "ascent": "Barry Smith, Jim Wilson, John Harrison, David Stone, Tom Bates, Maurice Sheehan, March 1959" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/canterbury/cloudy-peak-range/trireme-pk/west-ridge-east-pk", "name": "West Ridge, East Pk", "grade": null, "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": "Traverse the summit ridge from the Middle Peak. First climbed during a traverse of all three of Trireme\u2019s peaks.", "ascent": "Richard Studholme, Tom Morton, Peter Bain, December 1966" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/canterbury/cloudy-peak-range/trireme-pk/north-buttress-east-pk", "name": "North Buttress, East Pk", "grade": "2", "topo_ref": "NB", "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "2", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": null } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": "From the upper Agnes Glacier, cross south onto snowfields at the head of Emily Creek. Head due south up reasonably straightforward rock towards the summit.", "ascent": "George Kendall, John Nankervis, Roger Foley, Ross Gooder, John Wild, August 1969" } ], "places": [], "image": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/wide/public/image/Trireme.png?itok=CDWg-6Pm", "images": [ { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/wide/public/image/Trireme.png?itok=CDWg-6Pm", "height": "603", "width": "900" } ] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/canterbury/cloudy-peak-range/pt-2403": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/canterbury/cloudy-peak-range/pt-2403", "name": "Pt 2403", "altitude": "2403m", "access": null, "description": ".", "latlng": [ "-43.36516064", "170.70724533" ], "routes": [], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/canterbury-westland-alps/cloudy-peak-range/cloudy-pk": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/canterbury-westland-alps/cloudy-peak-range/cloudy-pk", "name": "Cloudy Pk", "altitude": "2403m", "access": "As Cloudy Stream and Cloudy Peak are accessed via private land owned by Erewhon Station, permission for access must be obtained from Colin and Erin Drummond (phone 03 303 9739) and details left in the intentions book at Erewhon homestead.\nIt\u2019s 6\u20137 hrs walk from Erewhon Station to the bivvy in Cloudy Stream. However, 4WD access is possible right up to the base of Cloudy Stream. From there it's 2\u20133 hrs to the base of the Hourglass Wall.\nThe best access to the valley is to head straight up the spur on the immediate true left of Cloudy Stream. Once the valley opens up, look for a track marked with white tape (2016). It goes through open scrub initially, staying fairly low in the valley rather than going high, before picking its way through the thick stuff to finish on scree.\nThere are a couple of bivvy sites in the Cloudy Stream valley at about the 1140m contour and also directly below the Hourglass Wall. Running stream water can be found between rocks a few minutes down valley even in the driest of summer months.\nIt's advisable to check the flow gauge for Rangitata River at Klondyke Corner on the Environment Canterbury webpage before heading off. Flows below 100 cumecs are generally okay.", "description": "Cloudy Pk is the highest point on the Cloudy Peak Range and is host to some excellent alpine rock climbing.", "latlng": [ "-43.46115278", "170.78025347" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/canterbury/cloudy-peak-range/cloudy-pk/north-ridge", "name": "North Ridge", "grade": "1+", "topo_ref": "NR", "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "1+", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "Reach the Cloudy Peak divide, skirt below the middle peak and scramble to the top." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": "This ridge cannot be soloed without a rope, there's a serious notch in the\nridge that cannot be downclimbed safely.\nThe first ascensionists had to avoid that section of the ridge by traversing well underneath it.", "ascent": "Bryan Barrer, Frank Askin, Dec 1931" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/canterbury/cloudy-peak-range/cloudy-pk/golly-rodger", "name": "Golly Rodger", "grade": "20", "topo_ref": "GR", "image": null, "images": [], "length": "395m", "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": "45m", "bolts": null, "trad": true, "ewbank": "16", "description": "Left of belay is a recess in the face. Starting in this, climb up good rock tending slightly left to ledge. Then straight up overhang and face to main ledge and belay bolts." }, { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": "45m", "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": "18", "description": "Tend left up face to ledge. Above is a steep wall with seams angling right. Follow seams to ledge and belay bolts." }, { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": "45m", "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": "16", "description": "Straight up overhang, then the face above tending slightly right to a ledge. Then straight up face to belay bolts on ledge. Belay may be a little to your left when gaining ledge. Good sustained pitch." }, { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": "45m", "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": "20", "description": "Step left and up weakness in the overhang. Then up and move right along seams to a small overlapping corner. Move around this corner and up tending right to ledge. Climb straight up face to next ledge, then tending left up face to belay bolts in recess." }, { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": "45m", "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": "17", "description": "Just left of belay and straight up steep juggy line of weakness to ledge. Then on up face (slightly right). Belay bolts on ledge." }, { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": "50m", "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": "17", "description": "Tend left up face to ledge. Above ledge head straight up towards small right-facing corner. Belay bolts just above. Sustained pitch." }, { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": "40m", "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": "14", "description": "Up and right to follow weakness through overhang. Then back left and straight up face to ledge and belay bolts." }, { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": "30m", "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": "15", "description": "Move left a bit to avoid overhang then up good juggy rock. Once established on face above keep a little left at 1st, moving right again when well up. Gain sloping ledge and bolts." }, { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": "50m", "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": "13", "description": "The rock above belay looks a bit odd. Move right a few metres along ledge, then up face tending back left. Regain the line then barrel straight up juggy rock to the belay bolts. Above this the angle lies back to scrambling. Be careful to avoid snagged ropes if abseiling this pitch." } ], "quality": 1, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": true, "description": "This route on the Left Wall of Cloudy Pk \u2018offers consistent climbing and has a worthwhile feel about it,\u2019 said one of the first ascentionists. \u2018We were scared pretty much the whole time,\u2019 said the other. Nine pitches on very compact and sparsely protected rock. Belay/abseil bolts.\nAccess by scrambling up towards highest rock mound beneath centre of face. This is about 100 metres right of the big right-facing corner. Rather than climbing to top of the mound, move left about 40 m along ledges to bolt belay on nose of rock.\nThe first ascent climbed using all natural gear with the abseil bolts being added to the belay stances on the descent, which also helps to mark where the route goes.", "ascent": "Peter Dickson, Bill McLeod, 1992" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/canterbury/cloudy-peak-range/cloudy-pk/groke", "name": "The Groke", "grade": "17,4-", "topo_ref": "TG", "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "4-", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": true, "ewbank": "15", "description": "Weave in and out of ledges and overhangs seeking the easiest route, towards the prominent line in the middle of the wall" }, { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": true, "ewbank": "15", "description": "As above." }, { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": true, "ewbank": "15", "description": "As above." }, { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": true, "ewbank": "17", "description": "From below the overhang move left and up around the overhang, then up a faint corner." }, { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": true, "ewbank": "13", "description": "Continue up the wall following the weakness." }, { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": true, "ewbank": "13", "description": "As above" }, { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": true, "ewbank": "16", "description": "Follow a faint crack to the upper overhang." }, { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": true, "ewbank": "16", "description": "Through the upper overhang, and into a chimney." }, { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "Easy climbing leading to a scramble to the summit." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": true, "description": "Left Wall. Generally follow the vague weaknesses just left of the obvious\ndrainage line on the face. Even so, protection and belay anchors are sparse\non some pitches, though belays are generally on good ledges. Some pitch\ndescriptions are generalised.", "ascent": "Fiona Bowie, Richard Thomson, 1987" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/canterbury/cloudy-peak-range/cloudy-pk/south-west-ridge", "name": "South West Ridge", "grade": "15,3", "topo_ref": "SWR", "image": null, "images": [], "length": "150m", "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "3", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": "150m", "bolts": null, "trad": true, "ewbank": "15", "description": "Start just left of the ridge : scramble up a gully to a small left-facing corner opposite a prominent\r\ncorner with a chimney. About four pitches of steep climbing, then a scramble to the summit of\r\nCloudy Peak. Alternatively, traverse right and descend scree." } ], "quality": 3, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": true, "description": null, "ascent": "Jack Hill, Rob Rainsbury, 1974" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/canterbury/cloudy-peak-range/cloudy-pk/east-flank", "name": "East Flank", "grade": "1+", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "1+", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "From the Clyde, head up a gully south-east of Mt Nolan and cross into the basin east of Cloudy\r\nPeak. Head directly towards the peak, swinging south onto the range at a flat area at 2120 metres\r\n(also readily reached from Cloudy Peak Stream), before continuing up small bluffs then scree." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": null }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/canterbury/cloudy-peak-range/cloudy-pk/south-east-ridge", "name": "South East Ridge", "grade": "1+", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "1+", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": null } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": "From the col between Cloudy Peak and Ferrar Peak (2120 meters), scramble up a\nbroad ridge which gets easier and more defined the closer you get to the\nsummit. If descending in poor visibility, care needs to be taken route\nfinding to reach the col.", "ascent": "FA Unknown" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/canterbury/cloudy-peak-range/cloudy-pk/silver-lining", "name": "Silver Lining", "grade": "23", "topo_ref": "SL", "image": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/route/silverLIningLocation_0.jpg?itok=oU41gu3H", "images": [ { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/route/silverLIningLocation_0.jpg?itok=oU41gu3H", "height": "244", "width": "325" }, { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/route/cloudy-line.jpg?itok=ne37ZbCY", "height": "325", "width": "244" } ], "length": "105m", "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": "35m", "bolts": null, "trad": true, "ewbank": "23", "description": "Just right of the arete, a crack line goes through 2 overhanging bulges. Sustained and well protected climbing to large ledge system." }, { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": "45m", "bolts": null, "trad": true, "ewbank": "18", "description": "An immaculate splitter crack going up the next wall." }, { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": "25m", "bolts": null, "trad": true, "ewbank": "16", "description": "Move left to another shorter splitter crack." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": true, "description": "A line on the right hand end of the upper wall. Fine splitter cracks up steep terrain. After 3 excellent pitches can continue scrambling up SW ridge to the summit, or descend as per SW ridge.", "ascent": "S Fortune, J Grinsted, S Chand, February 2017" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/canterbury/cloudy-peak-range/cloudy-pk/whole-nine-yards-upper-section", "name": "The Whole Nine Yards, upper section", "grade": "18", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": "345m", "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": "150m", "bolts": null, "trad": true, "ewbank": "13", "description": "Scramble along base of the face on the left side of the Great Prow. Climb a pitch up an off-width crack and keep moving left until you meet the saddle. The next pitch starts at the top of a small stepped ramp above the saddle point of the saddle." }, { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": "35m", "bolts": "7", "trad": true, "ewbank": "17", "description": "Follow the line of bolts linking ledges to a DBB." }, { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": "35m", "bolts": "7", "trad": false, "ewbank": "17", "description": "Follow the line of bolts linking ledges to a DBB." }, { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": "55m", "bolts": "8", "trad": true, "ewbank": "18", "description": "Step left and climb up passing a mixture of bolts and trad. crack placements until the angle eases in a wide gully with a DBB." }, { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": "40m", "bolts": "6", "trad": true, "ewbank": "17", "description": "Go to the back of the ledge and climb the crack at the head-wall using a mixture of trad. and bolts." }, { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": "30m", "bolts": "4", "trad": true, "ewbank": "15", "description": "From the right of the ledge, step up onto the moderately angled slab and climb past three bolts. At the third bolt step left across the void onto easy ground and scramble up to DBB, at the top of The Great Prow." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": "8", "natural_pro": true, "description": null, "ascent": "Grant Piper, Bernie Frankpitt, Greg Low, 2021 (equipped, but open for ascent)" } ], "places": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/canterbury/cloudy-peak-range/cloudy-peak/upper-walls", "name": "Upper Walls", "altitude": "2100m", "access": "To reach these routes, scramble up scree until you can traverse across the big shelf above the Hourglass\nWall. Be aware that snow may be present on the summit and on the descent to the col between Cloudy\nand Ferrar Peaks.", "description": "n/a", "latlng": null, "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/canterbury/cloudy-peak-range/cloudy-peak/upper-walls/great-prow", "name": "The Great Prow", "grade": "14,3+", "topo_ref": "GP", "image": null, "images": [], "length": "350m", "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "3+", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": "350m", "bolts": null, "trad": true, "ewbank": "14", "description": "Climb steep cracks with a small bulge about 15m up (crux)." }, { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": true, "ewbank": "11", "description": "Follow the line of the buttress on broken rock with deviations where necessary." }, { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": true, "ewbank": "11", "description": "As above." }, { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": true, "ewbank": "13", "description": "Move out right to avoid a smooth section, and then up short steep crack to rejoin the ridge." }, { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": true, "ewbank": "11", "description": "Skirt the prominent overhang on the left." }, { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": true, "ewbank": "11", "description": "Continue up, generally following the line of the Prow." }, { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": true, "ewbank": "11", "description": "As above" }, { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": true, "ewbank": "14", "description": "From the crest move left into a steep, broken gully with grey rock, and follow the left crack." }, { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": true, "ewbank": "12", "description": "Continue up the same line on easier rock to the shoulder of the Prow." } ], "quality": 2, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": true, "description": "This striking buttress is clearly seen from far down in the Havelock Valley.\nThe first ascent climbed a steep gully north of the Hourglass Wall to reach\nthe Prow, but since then it has been accessed from the shelf to the right (as\ndescribed). Start just to the right of the prow of the buttress on steep\ncracks. The pitch descriptions are somewhat generalised and should not be\ntaken too literally. There are doubtless several variants.\nFrom the top of the route scramble easily to the summit of Cloudy Peak in\nabout 30 minutes. Just before the summit, a ridge (South East Ridge) joins\nfrom the right which leads to the col between Cloudy and Ferrar Peaks and a\nlong scree slope back to the Cloudy Stream valley. There is often a patch of\nsnow near the top which may have to be traversed.", "ascent": "John Entwisle, Chris Moore, 1979" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/canterbury/cloudy-peak-range/cloudy-peak/upper-walls/prowess", "name": "Prowess", "grade": "19,3", "topo_ref": "Ps", "image": null, "images": [], "length": "350m", "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "3", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": "350m", "bolts": null, "trad": true, "ewbank": "19", "description": "The huge, smooth red wall." } ], "quality": 1, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": true, "description": null, "ascent": "Steve Elder, Bill McLeod, 1990" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/canterbury/cloudy-peak-range/cloudy-peak/upper-walls/mcc%E2%80%99s-crack", "name": "McC\u2019s Crack", "grade": "15,3", "topo_ref": "MC", "image": null, "images": [], "length": "350m", "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "3", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": "350m", "bolts": null, "trad": true, "ewbank": "15", "description": "Takes the prominent chimney, although it\u2019s often necessary to climb slabs on either side to\r\navoid loose rock. About 11 pitches, with the climbing easier and the rock looser towards the top." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": true, "description": null, "ascent": "Roger Garrett, Richard Struthers, 1980" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/canterbury/cloudy-peak-range/cloudy-peak/upper-walls/quick-and-dead", "name": "The Quick and the Dead", "grade": "4", "topo_ref": "QD", "image": null, "images": [], "length": "200m", "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "4", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": "200m", "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "Mixed climbing, thin ice, marginal pro. Five pitches." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Brian Alder, Dave Fearnley, 1990" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/canterbury/cloudy-peak-range/cloudy-peak/upper-walls/needle-direct", "name": "Needle Direct", "grade": "16,3", "topo_ref": "ND", "image": null, "images": [], "length": "200m", "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "3", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": "200m", "bolts": null, "trad": true, "ewbank": "16", "description": "The Needle is a striking feature of the bluffs below the South West Ridge, just right of the Great\r\nProw. Scramble up scree gullies for about 50m to the start. Mostly climb the crack just left of\r\nthe ar\u00eate. Five ptiches. Abseil off the top into a rotten gully, then scramble to the main ridge." } ], "quality": 2, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": true, "description": null, "ascent": "Marty Beare, Lindsay Main, 1980" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/canterbury/cloudy-peak-range/cloudy-peak/upper-walls/windwhistle-ar%C3%AAte", "name": "Windwhistle Ar\u00eate", "grade": "21", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": "60m", "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": "60m", "bolts": null, "trad": true, "ewbank": "21", "description": "\u2018Obvious sharp ar\u00eate left of substantial face heading to the South West Ridge, two fixed pegs.\u2019" } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": true, "description": null, "ascent": "Steve Elder, 1990" } ], "places": [], "image": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/wide/public/image/Upper%20Walls.png?itok=GDI3beDt", "images": [ { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/wide/public/image/Upper%20Walls.png?itok=GDI3beDt", "height": "578", "width": "900" } ] }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/canterbury/cloudy-peak-range/cloudy-pk/hourglass-centre-walls", "name": "Hourglass & Centre Walls", "altitude": "1500m", "access": null, "description": "The big wall, on the lower west side of Cloudy Pk.\nIt is now possible to abseil down the Hourglass Wall following the line of Sharp Shooter, using a single 60m rope.\nGo to the top of the small gully to find the top rap station, the finds it\u2019s way onto a large flat ledge, and then down the right side of the gully.\nAt the bottom of the the gully the descent route follows the Sharpshooter line.\nAt the 5-6 pitch change, the rap station is 10m right of the belay station.\nAt the 3-4 pitch change, go rightwards, there is a marker made of webbing, the rap station is just below that.", "latlng": null, "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/canterbury/cloudy-peak-range/cloudy-pk/hourglass-centre-walls/demondim", "name": "Demondim", "grade": "24", "topo_ref": "Dm", "image": null, "images": [], "length": "150m", "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": "150m", "bolts": null, "trad": true, "ewbank": "24", "description": "" } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": true, "description": "Start 100m left of the main corner below the Great Prow. Four pitches to the big ledge through the main overhang. Some bolts and bolt belays.", "ascent": "Martyn Clark, Bill McLeod, 1992" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/canterbury/cloudy-peak-range/cloudy-pk/hourglass-centre-walls/unbeliever", "name": "Unbeliever", "grade": "22", "topo_ref": "Ub", "image": null, "images": [], "length": "180m", "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": "180m", "bolts": null, "trad": true, "ewbank": "22", "description": "" } ], "quality": 1, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": true, "description": "Good wall climbing to reach grooves and then overhangs. Five pitches, some bolts, bolt belays.", "ascent": "Bill McLeod, Peter Dickson, 1992" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/canterbury/cloudy-peak-range/cloudy-pk/hourglass-centre-walls/sharp-shooter", "name": "Sharp Shooter", "grade": "22", "topo_ref": null, "image": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/routes/8CF29EE3-D9E9-4FD1-9487-092F2E4AFD74.jpeg?itok=x0eu5LdJ", "images": [ { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/routes/8CF29EE3-D9E9-4FD1-9487-092F2E4AFD74.jpeg?itok=x0eu5LdJ", "height": "244", "width": "325" } ], "length": "350m", "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": "15m", "bolts": "3", "trad": false, "ewbank": "17", "description": "Traverse right and scramble up to belay." }, { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": "30m", "bolts": "5", "trad": true, "ewbank": "21", "description": "(18 M1), 5 bolts + trad, out right into imposing corner system close to arete." }, { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": "45m", "bolts": "9", "trad": true, "ewbank": "20", "description": "Head right from belay then traverse (10 m ?) left and up headwall. Once off the steep wall, carry on 10m upwards to back of ledge and belay station." }, { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": "40m", "bolts": "9", "trad": false, "ewbank": "19", "description": "Head leftwards 10m from belay then following diagonal system on sloppy ledge. At ledge height, move left and use Lh belay station. If you shooting for the stars, do pitch 4 of Mission to Mercury." }, { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": "40m", "bolts": "9", "trad": true, "ewbank": "19", "description": "Head right up over belay and over diagonal breaks, at 6th bolt head left to belay, use 1st 2 bolts on Lhs. ( Ignore 1st 2 bolts on Rhs which are in the wrong place)." }, { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": "25m", "bolts": "6", "trad": true, "ewbank": "22", "description": "Go right off the ledge and across to a groove then onto headwall, using thin foot holds, horizontal and vertical rails." }, { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": "25m", "bolts": "6", "trad": true, "ewbank": "20", "description": "Follow the bolts, though balance moves to a small ledge." }, { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": "30m", "bolts": "9", "trad": true, "ewbank": "21", "description": "Climb steep slab on small holds to overlap at top. Go left below 3rd bolt finger crack for gear if needed." }, { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": "25m", "bolts": "3", "trad": true, "ewbank": "19", "description": "Start on stretchy moves. Pass 2 bolts, then go up to the base of the gully. Belay is on the left below gully." }, { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": "35m", "bolts": "4", "trad": true, "ewbank": "18", "description": "Across gully and back left onto jugular wall. \r\n Or there\u2019s an easier option; go up the right side of the gully and onto ledge, and carry on to top following a few bolts for navigation beacons." }, { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": "20m", "bolts": "4", "trad": true, "ewbank": "19", "description": "Up overlap to ledge. The best place to finish the climb. \r\nAbseil down the route from here." }, { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": "20m", "bolts": null, "trad": true, "ewbank": "10", "description": "Follow left up rising ledge to another rap station. (Optional but needed if you want to top out at the top of the wall)." } ], "quality": 3, "bolts": "9", "natural_pro": true, "description": "A straight up route on the left side of the Hourglass Wall.\nStart 70m left of The Whole Nine Yards. 9Y. This involves a quick scramble to get to the start.\nYou will notice the bolts for the first pitch and the left facing corner that makes the 2nd pitch.\nThe whole route can be descended using a single 60m rope (raps are 30m or less apart even if pitch is 45m long)\nThere is a small amount of trad gear required, BD cams from #0.3 - #1.0.\nExtendable quick draws are also very useful.\nThere is enough bolts in places to aid through cruxes above grade 20.", "ascent": "Grant Piper, Bernard Frankpitt, Kate Bailue, Richard Kimberly, Kevin Barratt -2023" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/canterbury/cloudy-peak-range/cloudy-pk/hourglass-centre-walls/mission-mercury", "name": "Mission to Mercury", "grade": "22", "topo_ref": null, "image": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/2024-04/IMG_0453_0.jpeg?itok=_2REPpvg", "images": [ { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/2024-04/IMG_0453_0.jpeg?itok=_2REPpvg", "height": "220", "width": "325" } ], "length": "400m", "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": "40m", "bolts": "2", "trad": true, "ewbank": "15", "description": "Start at the 9Y carved in rock. Climb easy ground to bolt, move left and up past bolt to belay station of Whole 9 yards Bridge up the short off width crack section to the top rock prow below the overhang. Crux lay away move to get established on the left hand face then blast up step ground on large holds. Move right based an abseil belay and climb to the face to the right of the tree up through step ground to ledge and DB belay." }, { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": "40m", "bolts": "16", "trad": true, "ewbank": "19", "description": "Climb the wall directly above belay then move left into grove, Climb groove through a series (3) of overhangs . DB belay past 3rd overhang." }, { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": "20m", "bolts": "5", "trad": true, "ewbank": "18", "description": "Continue up grove and face then trough small over hang past 3 more bolts to Belay" }, { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": "40m", "bolts": "4", "trad": true, "ewbank": "14", "description": "A 20m traverse left. Climb easy corner to left. Continue traversing left past an abseil station station (Sharpshooter), clip this then climb easier ground to belay station below left facing corner system." }, { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": "35m", "bolts": "7", "trad": true, "ewbank": "21", "description": "Climb left facing corner on trad, then clip bolt on lip off small overhang. Clip this and pill onto the face. Follow line of bolts traversing well right then up ledge system, traversing back left to the belay ledge. Your second will thank you if you put in a direction cam before the traverse left to the belay." }, { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": "40m", "bolts": "4", "trad": true, "ewbank": "16", "description": "Climb up easy ground above to large right leaning ramp. Climb this past 4 bolts till you get to a large ledge system. Traverse right and down this ledge, arranging cams and threads, for another 20m to DB belay of W9Y, complete with drill bit stuck in rock" }, { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": "50m", "bolts": "2", "trad": true, "ewbank": "19", "description": "From this belay the W9Y takes the right line of bolt. Mission to Mercury climbs the roof directly above the belay then follows the right leaning crack system. From belay climb through roof past 2 bolt to the crack. Follow crack up for 15m then move back left to large ledge system, Move left back to large right tending ramp, Easy climbing up ramp, protection is sparce but can be found. After 30m move left onto hanging ledge and 2 bolt belay." }, { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": "50m", "bolts": "11", "trad": true, "ewbank": "22", "description": "Move left from belay onto exposed head wall, climb this through small roof and up head wall, crux, till you reach lower angle wall and a series of ledges . Move left along ledge then back right to bolt then climb head wall above to large belay ledge 60m below the top of the hourglass wall" }, { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": "40m", "bolts": "5", "trad": true, "ewbank": "19", "description": "Follow the line of bolts tending right up wall to a large ledge system , from here put on direction runner for second and move 20m left to DB belay" }, { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": "45m", "bolts": "5", "trad": true, "ewbank": "10", "description": "Climb wall out right of belay past 5 Bolts. Move back right on to arete and DB belay.\r\nDescent." } ], "quality": 1, "bolts": "16", "natural_pro": true, "description": "A mixed bolted and trad climb that runs up the left side of the Hourglass Wall. Mixed bolts and trad, take a single set of cams from 0.3 to 3. Abseil back down route.\nDecent\n\n58m down pitch 10 & 9 (large ledge) Beware of loose rock when pully rope\n50m down pitch 8\n40m.down pitch 7\n60m.down pitch 6, 5, 4 (Don\u2019t forget to tie knot in end of rope\n50m down pitch 2 & 3\n40m down pitch 1", "ascent": "Anna Brooke, Grant Piper, Ed Machado, Jonathan Tye, 2022" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/canterbury/cloudy-peak-range/cloudy-pk/hourglass-centre-walls/mission-impossible", "name": "Mission Impossible", "grade": "17", "topo_ref": "MI", "image": null, "images": [], "length": "325m", "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": "325m", "bolts": null, "trad": true, "ewbank": "17", "description": "" } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": true, "description": "Eight pitches on the left of the wall. The first four climb up to and through the big roof; the route then follows the prominent diagonal up and right, easier climbing but few runners.", "ascent": "Marty Beare, Lindsay Main, 1981" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/canterbury/cloudy-peak-range/cloudy-pk/hourglass-centre-walls/mission-accomplished", "name": "Mission Accomplished", "grade": "19", "topo_ref": "MA", "image": null, "images": [], "length": "300m", "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": "300m", "bolts": null, "trad": true, "ewbank": "19", "description": "" } ], "quality": 1, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": true, "description": "This direct finish to the previous route makes a more sustained climb. Move left onto the face and up for four pitches, once the diagonal is reached.", "ascent": "Steve Elder, Bill McLeod, 1990" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/canterbury/cloudy-peak-range/cloudy-pk/hourglass-centre-walls/whole-nine-yards", "name": "The Whole Nine Yards", "grade": "21", "topo_ref": null, "image": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/routes/CloudyPkandcamp.jpgR_.jpg?itok=xR_hpLgJ", "images": [ { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/routes/CloudyPkandcamp.jpgR_.jpg?itok=xR_hpLgJ", "height": "214", "width": "325" }, { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/routes/B3BD6A99-3A9C-4A87-BD91-9EAD75F0A4D9.jpeg?itok=dJgT3SkZ", "height": "325", "width": "231" }, { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/routes/318525D1-DF98-4060-9C18-50E48BCFF1E6.jpeg?itok=4R9B0LhZ", "height": "325", "width": "229" }, { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/routes/9A3DF974-F0D9-47B7-A858-80B9B2F49DD8.jpeg?itok=AjycLk86", "height": "325", "width": "222" } ], "length": "330m", "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": "30m", "bolts": "1", "trad": true, "ewbank": "13", "description": "Scramble up ledges past one bolt" }, { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": "35m", "bolts": "8", "trad": false, "ewbank": "18", "description": "Climb straight up v grove, skirt left around overlap and up past eight bolts. Under the next overlap, move right to an anchor." }, { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": "35m", "bolts": "4", "trad": true, "ewbank": "17", "description": "From corner on right of overlap, step up and climb right facing corner (trad.) to roof. Step left onto face and move up past well-spaced bolts on easier ground to the big ledge. The anchor is on your left." }, { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": "40m", "bolts": "7", "trad": true, "ewbank": "19", "description": "Start at left corner of big ledge, Climb past three bolts onto the face left of the corner (crux). Climb up the face past two bolts, angling right to a splitter crack. Climb the 10m splitter crack (BD 2 and 3) to overlap. Step up onto the face and continue climbing to DBBS." }, { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": "50m", "bolts": "10", "trad": true, "ewbank": "21", "description": "Climb through the overlap to the right of the anchor. Make a delicate move to the left and continue up the black face until capped by another overlap. Skirt right of the overlap into a vague crack. Climb up to a third overlap and move right onto easier climbing. The pitch finishes on a small ledge under the next overhang." }, { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": "55m", "bolts": "9", "trad": true, "ewbank": "19", "description": "Climb through the overhang (crux) and continue up the face above. After the second bolt move left across the face to gain an off-width feature with good right-leaning, left-facing edges. Continue up the edges to a horizontal ledge. Traverse right to an orange left-facing corner and trad. gear. Move up the corner onto the brown face and past a single bolt. Finish on a big ledge with a rap station." }, { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": "55m", "bolts": "7", "trad": true, "ewbank": "17", "description": "Follow the line of bolts starting at the right of the ledge, traverse right onto the red rock face, and then veering left until you reach the rap anchor at the top of the Hour Glass Wall (can be split in two pitches)." }, { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": "30m", "bolts": "4", "trad": true, "ewbank": "17", "description": "This pitch starts 30m to the right of rap station at the top of the previous pitch, at the back of the ledge that joins them. From the DBB, Scramble left up the ramp to a big red face with a bolt at its base. Climb straight up using a mixture of bolts and trad. crack gear. You finish at a rap anchor below the big scree that takes you to the prow buttress" } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": "10", "natural_pro": true, "description": "A climb that goes from the bottom of the Hourglass Wall to the top of The Great Prow. You have to walk a short distance, from the top of the tier above the Hourglass Wall to the base of the Prow Wall. All belays are equipped with rings making it possible to rappel the route. The Prow Wall section is Ok, but the upper Hourglass Wall has diagonal, leftward rappels which are moderately difficult.\nTake a comprehensive rack of cams between BD #0.3-#3 and a single set of wires.\nThe most practical descent route is to abseil down the upper section to the base of The Great Prow, and using the access way down the big shelf to near the start of the SW ridge.", "ascent": "Grant Piper, Bernie Frankpitt and Greg Low 2021" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/canterbury/cloudy-peak-range/cloudy-pk/hourglass-centre-walls/fiddler-roof", "name": "Fiddler on the Roof", "grade": "20", "topo_ref": "FR", "image": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/route/DSC00721.jpg?itok=oOwsNJnR", "images": [ { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/route/DSC00721.jpg?itok=oOwsNJnR", "height": "217", "width": "325" } ], "length": "280m", "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": "280m", "bolts": null, "trad": true, "ewbank": "20", "description": "" } ], "quality": 2, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": true, "description": "The first route through the spectacular overhangs on the left side of the wall. Nine pitches \u2013 the roof pitch and the wall above are very good. Finish up the Mission Impossible diagonal.", "ascent": "James Jenkins, Lindsay Main, 1980" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/canterbury/cloudy-peak-range/cloudy-pk/hourglass-centre-walls/big-dipper", "name": "Big Dipper", "grade": "25", "topo_ref": "BD", "image": null, "images": [], "length": "300m", "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": "300m", "bolts": "7", "trad": true, "ewbank": "25", "description": "" } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": "7", "natural_pro": true, "description": "Tackles the most impressive features on the wall. Climb over three sets of overhangs to reach the big arch. Through this and across the big roof (crux, bolts) and straight up the wall above.", "ascent": "Bill McLeod, Peter Dickson, 1991" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/canterbury/cloudy-peak-range/cloudy-pk/hourglass-centre-walls/when-frog-lifts", "name": "When the Frog Lifts", "grade": "17", "topo_ref": "FL", "image": null, "images": [], "length": "80m", "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": "80m", "bolts": null, "trad": true, "ewbank": "17", "description": "" } ], "quality": 1, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": true, "description": "Yup, frog. Two good pitches on the compact orange rock of the upper wall. Accessed by abseil.", "ascent": "Fiona Bowie, Richard Thomson, 1987" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/canterbury/cloudy-peak-range/cloudy-pk/hourglass-centre-walls/when-snow-melts", "name": "When the Snow Melts", "grade": "21", "topo_ref": "SM", "image": null, "images": [], "length": "300m", "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": "300m", "bolts": null, "trad": true, "ewbank": "21", "description": null } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": true, "description": "\u2018The line of greatest resistance\u2019. Sustained climbing up to and through the main overhang via corner systems at its right-hand end.", "ascent": "Peter Dickson, Bill McLeod, 1991" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/canterbury/cloudy-peak-range/cloudy-pk/hourglass-centre-walls/hourglass-left", "name": "Hourglass Left", "grade": "19", "topo_ref": "HL", "image": null, "images": [], "length": "300m", "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": "300m", "bolts": null, "trad": true, "ewbank": "19", "description": "" } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": true, "description": "The big natural line in the centre of the wall. Three good pitches (crux on first pitch) are followed by uninteresting climbing in loose, vegetated gullies and chimneys.", "ascent": "Marty Beare, Lindsay Main, 1980" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/canterbury/cloudy-peak-range/cloudy-pk/hourglass-centre-walls/hourglass-right", "name": "Hourglass Right", "grade": "16", "topo_ref": "HR", "image": null, "images": [], "length": "300m", "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": "300m", "bolts": null, "trad": true, "ewbank": "16", "description": "" } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": true, "description": "The bottom right line of the \u2018hourglass\u2019 is sometimes loose and sometimes barely protectable.", "ascent": "Brent Davis, Brian Fish, 1981" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/canterbury/cloudy-peak-range/cloudy-pk/hourglass-centre-walls/hourglass-has-turned", "name": "The Hourglass Has Turned", "grade": "19", "topo_ref": null, "image": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/route/Cloudy%20Peak_2.jpg?itok=wg0owxey", "images": [ { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/route/Cloudy%20Peak_2.jpg?itok=wg0owxey", "height": "217", "width": "325" } ], "length": "300m", "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": "300m", "bolts": null, "trad": true, "ewbank": "19", "description": null } ], "quality": 1, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": true, "description": "Sustained climbing, spaced protection, immaculate rock.\nP1 - 50m (16) Start on right hand edge of overhangs. Up vegetated terrain to\nrib and onto face above. Traverse left to belay in second groove. Excavation\nof protection was required on this pitch.\nP2 - 45m (16) up groove to shallow right corner. Belayed below roof.\nP3 - 10m (10) Traversed left, belayed in the 'Hourglass Right' groove.\nP4 - 50m (19) Traverse right then straight up through roof. Heading right up\nshallow cracks which are fused and rounded higher up.\nP5 - 20m (19) Right hand side of shallow recessed corner\nP6 - 25m (17) Bridging up twin cracks then step right to corner and up to\nlarge ledge.\nP7 - 30m (18) The sneaky groove through the roof. Traverse left along ledge\nto an awkward belay on wall above.\nP8 - 50m (17) Traversing right following cracks, through a small corner\nchimney then up onto large ledge. Belay in top left corner\nP9 - 30m (15) Traverse right then up right leaning crack to scree slope.\nWalked off by traversing right.", "ascent": "Michael Eatson, Tawny Wagstaff, March 2016" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/canterbury/cloudy-peak-range/cloudy-pk/hourglass-centre-walls/united-states-mind", "name": "The United States in Mind", "grade": "18", "topo_ref": "US", "image": null, "images": [], "length": "300m", "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": "300m", "bolts": null, "trad": true, "ewbank": "18", "description": "" } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": true, "description": "Some delightful climbing on a direct line, following the enigmatic left-facing feature.", "ascent": "Steve Elder, Bill McLeod, 1990" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/canterbury/cloudy-peak-range/cloudy-pk/hourglass-centre-walls/ytivarg", "name": "Ytivarg", "grade": "17", "topo_ref": "Yg", "image": null, "images": [], "length": "250m", "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": "250m", "bolts": null, "trad": true, "ewbank": "17", "description": "" } ], "quality": 2, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": true, "description": "Five good pitches on sound rock, sometimes committing and exposed.", "ascent": "Marty Beare, Lindsay Main, 1981" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/canterbury/cloudy-peak-range/cloudy-pk/hourglass-centre-walls/slip-sliding-away", "name": "Slip-sliding Away", "grade": "15", "topo_ref": "SA", "image": null, "images": [], "length": "200m", "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": "200m", "bolts": null, "trad": true, "ewbank": "15", "description": "" } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": true, "description": "Sustained and enjoyable, meandering but logical. Climb the right-hand side of the wall.", "ascent": "James Jenkins, Lindsay Main, 1980" } ], "places": [], "image": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/wide/public/image/Ctr%26Hourglass_0.png?itok=edZpdOTW", "images": [ { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/wide/public/image/Ctr%26Hourglass_0.png?itok=edZpdOTW", "height": "579", "width": "900" }, { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/image/B0D8E1F8-6C8C-445F-A404-DFC0EE1B430F.jpeg?itok=OI4s6yIJ", "height": "244", "width": "325" }, { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/image/DEDC7744-2DAD-443C-BA84-84C9CC276676.jpeg?itok=UwtVbDQo", "height": "244", "width": "325" }, { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/image/75981E1E-CD18-4C12-9B13-61228F9470EC.jpeg?itok=Q4_ZxRtw", "height": "244", "width": "325" } ] }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/canterbury/cloudy-peak-range/cloudy-pk/lower-valley-crags", "name": "Lower valley crags", "altitude": null, "access": null, "description": "There are various smaller crags in the lower Cloudy Stream valley that have potential for shorter (1 - 3 pitch) routes, useful for when weather or time limitations prevent climbing the longer routes in the area, or as a half day option before walking out.", "latlng": [ "-43.480702", "170.778995" ], "routes": [], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/canterbury/cloudy-peak-range/cloudy-pk/consolation-crag", "name": "Consolation Crag", "altitude": "1500m", "access": "A ~60m high wall on the true left, high above the 'oasis' at the 1500m contour.", "description": "One two-pitch route was climbed on the walk out when high winds prevented a climb on Cloudy Peak proper. Potential for more routes. Other crags in the lower valley have potential for similar routes, useful for when weather or time limitations prevent climbing the longer routes in the area, or as a half day option before walking out.\nCan walk off top and around north side of crag to get back to the base.", "latlng": [ "-43.480702", "170.778995" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/canterbury/cloudy-peak-range/cloudy-pk/consolation-crag/consolation-corner", "name": "Consolation Corner", "grade": "18", "topo_ref": "CC", "image": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/routes/IMG_8637.jpeg?itok=utqMwq4R", "images": [ { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/routes/IMG_8637.jpeg?itok=utqMwq4R", "height": "244", "width": "325" }, { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/routes/IMG_8639.jpeg?itok=KrFIySu6", "height": "244", "width": "325" } ], "length": "60m", "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": "30m", "bolts": null, "trad": true, "ewbank": "17", "description": "Start below centre of crag, move up and right into a broad corner and follow the broad weakness up to a large ledge. Climb pillars out of the ledge to a large boulder then up right (crux) to large ledges in the centre of the cliff. Belay at a large boulder to the left of a prominent chimney/corner. This pitch has poor protection in the lower half, though the crux is decently protected." }, { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": "30m", "bolts": null, "trad": true, "ewbank": "18", "description": "Move right along a weakness from the prominent chimney/corner towards the face into a narrow and steep v-corner (good protection). Move up then left where it peters out into another steep v-corner. Move up this past a bulge to the top of the cliff. Good protection and good climbing." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": true, "description": "A two-pitch line up the centre of the crag. First pitch is loose and poorly protected in places. Second pitch has good rock and good protection, great climbing.", "ascent": "Owain Scullion and Tom Garden, March 2021." } ], "places": [], "image": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/wide/public/image/P1330384_0.jpeg?itok=XooZvyo9", "images": [ { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/wide/public/image/P1330384_0.jpeg?itok=XooZvyo9", "height": "818", "width": "1090" } ] } ], "image": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/wide/public/image/Copy%20of%20Cloudy%20Pk.jpg?itok=g0NrTx1f", "images": [ { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/wide/public/image/Copy%20of%20Cloudy%20Pk.jpg?itok=g0NrTx1f", "height": "611", "width": "900" } ] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/main-divide-of-the-southern-alps/mt-walton": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/main-divide-of-the-southern-alps/mt-walton", "name": "Mt Walton", "altitude": "2403m", "access": null, "description": "From either Maud Pass or Jacqueline Col.\nFirst ascent from Neish Plateau by Will Kennedy and Jack Lippe, Feb 1925.", "latlng": [ "-43.42512318", "170.51794052" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/main-divide-of-the-southern-alps/mt-walton/neish-plateau", "name": "From Neish Plateau", "grade": null, "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "From the Neish Plateau, via Maud Pass or the Pt 2250 metres Divide pass." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Will Kennedy, Jack Lippe, 30 February 1925" } ], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki/burnett-mountains/mt-bruce": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki/burnett-mountains/mt-bruce", "name": "Mt Bruce", "altitude": "2401m", "access": null, "description": "tba", "latlng": [ "-43.714404", "170.260953" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki/burnett-mountains/mt-bruce/unnamed", "name": "Unnamed", "grade": null, "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "Straightforward from the top of Gorilla Stream." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Peter Graham, Dorothy Holdsworth, Irene Chambers, R B Seager, Mar 1917" } ], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/canterbury/arrowsmith-range/pito-pk": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/canterbury/arrowsmith-range/pito-pk", "name": "Pito Pk", "altitude": "2401m", "access": null, "description": "The first recorded climb of Pito Peak was by Doug Gordon, William Vaughan, A W White and\nArthur Dixon in December 1945, but it is highly likely that the peak saw far earlier ascents, possibly\nby local shepherds and runholders.", "latlng": [ "-43.402366", "170.952587" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/canterbury/arrowsmith-range/pito-pk/lawrence-valley", "name": "From Lawrence Valley", "grade": "1", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "1", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "Climb the spur on the northern side of the creek that joins the Lawrence River upstream of\r\nHermitage Hut. Gain the high col overlooking the South Ashburton Valley and follow an easy\r\nridge southward to the summit. Alternatively, the north branch of the creek above Hermitage\r\nHut presents difficult travel and the south branch provides good going." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Nancy Cawley, Bryan Fineran, Philip Temple, Colin Burrows, Murray Dukes, November 1962" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/canterbury/arrowsmith-range/pito-pk/north-ridge", "name": "North Ridge", "grade": "1", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "1", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "Best attempted from the hanging valley that joins the main valley a short distance up the lateral\r\nmoraine. From the col at the head, the first of the three summits is reached via a short walk up\r\nan easy ridge." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": null }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/canterbury/arrowsmith-range/pito-pk/east-face", "name": "East Face", "grade": "1", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "1", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "From Hakatere flats, climb long leading spur north of a stream draining the east flank, through bluff and into tarn basin below face. Climb open face to summit ridge and then right to the high point." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": null } ], "places": [], "image": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/wide/public/image/1-PB130176.JPG?itok=0sZrzHTZ", "images": [ { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/wide/public/image/1-PB130176.JPG?itok=0sZrzHTZ", "height": "697", "width": "900" } ] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/canterbury-westland-alps/main-divide/seymour-pk": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/canterbury-westland-alps/main-divide/seymour-pk", "name": "Seymour Pk", "altitude": "2400m", "access": null, "description": null, "latlng": [ "-43.427088", "170.496722" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/canterbury-westland-alps/main-divide/seymour-pk/grey-glacier", "name": "From the Grey Glacier", "grade": "1,II", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": "1", "commitment": "II", "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": null } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": "Easy snow slopes.", "ascent": "Will Kennedy, Jack Lippe, February 1925" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/canterbury-westland-alps/main-divide/seymour-pk/north-ridge-north-butler-lake", "name": "North Ridge from the North Butler Lake", "grade": null, "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "The ridge is accessed from Ice lake." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Rob Rowlands, Clive & Wilma Rubens, Wilf Dickerson, Jan, 1983" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/canterbury-westland-alps/main-divide/seymour-pk/west-face", "name": "West Face", "grade": "1+", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "1+", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "The first stream below Ice Lake offers good travel up towards Grey Pass with the odd pitch of\r\nsteeper rock. From the snow slopes north of Grey Pass, head up the West Face on good rock." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Mike Andrews, Ramila Moral, Joanne Steffert, Ross Eden, Philip Paton, February 1979" } ], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/canterbury/two-thumb-range/mt-coates": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/canterbury/two-thumb-range/mt-coates", "name": "Mt Coates", "altitude": "2400m", "access": null, "description": "Named after Joseph Gordon Coates, the first New Zealand-born citizen to become Prime Minister.", "latlng": [ "-43.47510181", "170.58898646" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/canterbury/two-thumb-range/mt-coates/north-ridge", "name": "North Ridge", "grade": "1+", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "1+", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "A straightforward climb from Separation Col. Alternatively, ascend snow slopes from the confluence of the Separation and Butcher Glaciers to join the south-east ridge close to the summit. Coates can also be climbed from Twilight Col." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Edgar Williams, A J Scott, R H Booth, Jan 1932" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/canterbury/two-thumb-range/mt-coates/south-east-ridge", "name": "South East Ridge", "grade": "2", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "2", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "From the col at Pt 2094 metres (see Twilight Col) it is a slow climb on mixed snow and\r\nrock along the ridge to the summit." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "David Hall, John Rogers, December 1950" } ], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/canterbury-westland-alps/main-divide/outram-pk": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/canterbury-westland-alps/main-divide/outram-pk", "name": "Outram Pk", "altitude": "2399m", "access": null, "description": null, "latlng": [ "-43.34614092", "170.70179441" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/canterbury-westland-alps/main-divide/outram-pk/west-ridge", "name": "West Ridge", "grade": "1+", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "1+", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "From Havelock Col climb good\r\nrock slabs and minor snow along\r\nthe ridge to the summit." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Stan Barnett, Bruce Turner, Bill Mirams, 31 December 1933" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/canterbury-westland-alps/main-divide/outram-pk/disappointment-saddle", "name": "From Disappointment Saddle", "grade": "2", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "2", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "Follow Agnes Stream to\r\nDisappointment Saddle and\r\nclimb the snow slope, which\r\nmerges with a steep snow ar\u00eate\r\nleading to the final rock ridge." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "H W (Sandy) Cormack, Lloyd Wilson, 28 December 1933" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/canterbury-westland-alps/main-divide/outram-pk/east-ridge", "name": "East Ridge", "grade": "2", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "2", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "A schrund extending from bluffs\r\nunder the east ridge of Outram\r\nPeak across to an icefall just\r\nsouth of Schrund Peak can completely\r\ncut off the col between\r\nOutram and Schrund peaks,\r\nbut may be negotiable early in\r\na heavy snow season. Instead,\r\nfrom Disappointment Saddle\r\nsidle across snow slopes to the col\r\nsouth-west of Quoin Peak and\r\ntraverse the glacier on the northern\r\nside of Schrund Peak, then\r\nfollow the rock ridge to the top.\r\nAn alternative involves climbing\r\nthe broad, crevassed southern\r\naspects of Schrund Peak and dropping down to the col, and reaching the East Ridge from there. In good conditions this\r\nroute offers a good transalpine crossing from the Havelock to the Garden of Eden." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "H W (Sandy) Cormack, Lloyd Wilson (descended), December 1933" } ], "places": [], "image": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/wide/public/image/P191_0.png?itok=RZ63cXxs", "images": [ { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/wide/public/image/P191_0.png?itok=RZ63cXxs", "height": "525", "width": "900" } ] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/node/7073": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/node/7073", "name": "St Mildred Pk", "altitude": "2395m", "access": null, "description": "An easy ascent from either Drummond Peak or Newton Rocks. First ascent unknown.", "latlng": [ "-43.47054946", "170.24019241" ], "routes": [], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/canterbury/jollie-range/outlaw-pk": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/canterbury/jollie-range/outlaw-pk", "name": "Outlaw Pk", "altitude": "2394m", "access": null, "description": null, "latlng": [ "-43.3521186", "170.87060841" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/canterbury/jollie-range/outlaw-pk/south-east-ridge", "name": "South East Ridge", "grade": "2", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "2", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "A straightforward ascent of the Sinclair Glacier leads to Bandolero Col. From here, follow a\r\nbroken 20-metre couloir, followed by a traverse around the northern side of a spire. If snow\r\nconditions are favourable, difficulties low down can be passed on the northern side of the ridge.\r\nNear the top of the ridge a short crack topped by a big chockstone can be tackled directly and\r\nleads to a couloir. The summit is a short distance further on." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Probably first climbed by David Parr and Trevor James, 1948" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/canterbury/jollie-range/outlaw-pk/north-ridge", "name": "North Ridge", "grade": null, "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "From Bandolero Col climb the Outlaw Glacier to the rocky ridge that leads to the summit." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": null }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/canterbury/jollie-range/outlaw-pk/west-ridge", "name": "West Ridge", "grade": "2-", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "2-", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "The West Ridge is usually reached from Crossbow Saddle or the Kirk Glacier and provides a\r\nlong mix of snow and rock to the summit." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Walter Baker, Rex Booth, December 1935" } ], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/canterbury/naumann-range/mt-glenisla": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/canterbury/naumann-range/mt-glenisla", "name": "Mt Glenisla", "altitude": "2392m", "access": null, "description": "TBA", "latlng": [ "-43.9407", "169.8879" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/canterbury/naumann-range/mt-glenisla/dobson-valley", "name": "From Dobson Valley", "grade": null, "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": "There are no records of ascent of Glenisla from the Dobson side but ascent\nvia Watson Stream appears feasible from either north or south along the ridge\ncrest.", "ascent": null }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/canterbury/naumann-range/mt-glenisla/south-ridge", "name": "South Ridge", "grade": "2-", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "2-", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": null } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": "A confirmed ascent was achieved in Easter 1936 by a party of nine, four of\nwhom completed the first traverse of the peak. From the base of the North\nRidge on Dasler Pinnacles, angle north east across easy ground to reach the\ncol between Glenisla and 2385, and from there along the ridge to the summit.", "ascent": "Cedric Benzoni, Les Buddicom, Jim Dawson, George Edwards, Gordon Edwards, Jim Gilkison, Scott Gilkison, Christopher Johnson, Doug Knowles April 1936" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/canterbury/naumann-range/mt-glenisla/north-west-buttress", "name": "North West Buttress", "grade": "4", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "4", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": null } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": "From the basin directly opposite Elcho Stream follow the NW buttress to the\nshoulder, then traverse across overhanging north wall to reach the summit\nridge. Easy ground from there to the top. A good climb on reasonable quality\nrock. 16 pitches, Crux grade 16.", "ascent": "Gottlieb Braun-Elwert, Russell Brice, Rob Hall, Stella Sweney, January 1981" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/canterbury/naumann-range/mt-glenisla/north-face", "name": "North Face", "grade": "3+", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "3+", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": null } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": "Begin just east of the large scree cone and ascend red rock, grade 15, to\nreach the summit ridge. Climbed as part of a Mountain Guides course.", "ascent": "Stu Allan, Kevin Boekholt, Kim Logan, Dave Walsh March1985" } ], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/%C5%8Dhau-landsborough/main-divide/mt-strauchon": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/%C5%8Dhau-landsborough/main-divide/mt-strauchon", "name": "Mt Strauchon", "altitude": "2391m", "access": null, "description": "Mt Strauchon is one of the key mountains in the Southern Alps as it drains to three major rivers: the Landsborough (to the Haast), the Huxley (to the Waitaki) and the Hunter (to the Clutha). The true summit is an outlier 150m northwest of the main divide. The first ascent party was reported to have climbed to within 8 feet of the summit, but in 1992 a modest Harry Stevenson suggested it was 8 feet and about 50 metres!", "latlng": [ "-43.96184423", "169.69580624" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/%C5%8Dhau-landsborough/main-divide/mt-strauchon/north-east-ridge", "name": "North East Ridge", "grade": "3-", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "3-", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": null } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": "Mt Strauchon is most frequently climbed by gaining height along the Main\nDivide from Brodrick Pass until rocky bluffs force climbers onto the south\neast slopes. Alternative acess is across the McKenzie Creek face then\nupwards on solid rock and snow filled gully to reach a point 150m east of\nsummit. The route joins 4.15 and requires a delicate traverse across the\nfinal 150m of ridge to the high point.", "ascent": "Bill Beaven, Norman Hardie, Jim McFarlane, 1947" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/%C5%8Dhau-landsborough/main-divide/mt-strauchon/south-east-face", "name": "South East Face", "grade": "3-", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "3-", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": null } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": "From Brodrick Hut cross the alpine meadows to reach the lower snowslopes. A\nroute on the southern edge of the glacier leads upwards near the south ridge\nto reach the crest and the traverse to the high point. Conditions on the\ntraverse can vary from a rather loose and narrow rocky ridge, to a\npencil-thin icy ar\u00eate. Take gear appropriate for the expected conditions.", "ascent": "Jim Gilkison, Scott Gilkison, GrahamMcGlymont, Harry Stevenson October 1934" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/%C5%8Dhau-landsborough/main-divide/mt-strauchon/east-hunter", "name": "From the East Hunter", "grade": "2+", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "2+", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": null } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": "From the East Branch of the Hunter River climb to the saddle west of Mt\nStrauchon then gain height along the Divide to the summit.", "ascent": "Graham Riley, S.Unwin, J.D.Willis, December 1934" } ], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/otago/huxley-range/hammerack-pk": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/otago/huxley-range/hammerack-pk", "name": "Hammerack Pk", "altitude": "2389m", "access": null, "description": "Wrongly labelled on the map as Hammorack (see comments).", "latlng": [ "-44.0359", "169.6806" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/otago/huxley-range/hammerack-pk/protuberance-peak", "name": "From Protuberance Peak", "grade": "2", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "2", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": null } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": "From the summit of Protuberance Peak 2389m, traverse north west for almost a\nkilometre on good rock to reach the summit.", "ascent": "Peter Dickson March 1993" } ], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/otago/huxley-range/protuberance-pk": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/otago/huxley-range/protuberance-pk", "name": "Protuberance Pk", "altitude": "2389m", "access": null, "description": "TBA", "latlng": [ "-44.0404", "169.6845" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/otago/huxley-range/protuberance-pk/far-and-away", "name": "Far and Away", "grade": "4", "topo_ref": null, "image": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/route/IMG_3215.JPG?itok=NOSq4xbE", "images": [ { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/route/IMG_3215.JPG?itok=NOSq4xbE", "height": "244", "width": "325" } ], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "4", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": null } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": "The attractive 550m high west face on Peak 2389m is easily gained from the\nSouth Huxley via the Huxley-Hunter col. Begin up a prominent buttress at\nbottom centre of face. Climb to steep band then move left to gain west edge\nof central rib. Follow the rib directly to the summit. Rock quality is\nexcellent and the climbing consistent. Steady grade 14.", "ascent": "Peter Dickson, Bill McLeod March 1993" } ], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/canterbury/jollie-range/mt-renegade": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/canterbury/jollie-range/mt-renegade", "name": "Mt Renegade", "altitude": "2389m", "access": null, "description": null, "latlng": [ "-43.356514", "170.885725" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/canterbury/jollie-range/mt-renegade/south-couloir", "name": "South Couloir", "grade": "2-", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "2-", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "The South Couloir was the route of the first ascent of Mt Renegade, originally reached from\r\nthe Sinclair River and Crossbow Saddle \u2013 this is still the most popular way to reach the summit.\r\nFrom the saddle, sidle to reach the glacier between Outlaw Peak and Mt Renegade, and\r\nfrom here take the couloir just west of the south ridge which leads to the rocky summit slopes." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "David Parr, Trevor James, 1948" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/canterbury/jollie-range/mt-renegade/south-ridge-lawrence-face", "name": "South Ridge / Lawrence Face", "grade": "1", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "1", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "From Crossbow Saddle traverse the glacier under Outlaw on the Kirk side, then climb easy rock." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Tom Morton, Peter Bain, Bruce Willis, January 1962" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/canterbury/jollie-range/mt-renegade/north-ridge", "name": "North Ridge", "grade": "1", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "1", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "A straightforward ridge, reached from the unnamed stream east of Prelude Peak." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Mervyn Beauvais, Russell Pearce, December 1964" } ], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/otago/harris-mountains/mt-ansted": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/otago/harris-mountains/mt-ansted", "name": "Mt Ansted", "altitude": "2388m", "access": null, "description": "Ansted was first climbed by Frank Wright and J R Simpson, from the Dart Valley, on February 21, 1914.", "latlng": [ "-44.507239", "168.617353" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/otago/harris-mountains/mt-ansted/cascade-saddle-track", "name": "Via Cascade Saddle Track", "grade": "1,II", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": "0m", "pitches": [ { "alpine": "1", "commitment": "II", "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": null } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": "0", "natural_pro": false, "description": "From the top of the Cascade Saddle track, which is marked by a tripod pylon, head south along the ridge towards the low peak of Tyndall, until a suitable line across the Isobel Glacier is reached. Alternatively cross the upper basin of Cascade Creek to reach the easy angled North Ridge. The top 50m of rather loose rock are interesting climbing\u2014brush up on the art of climbing choss.\nAnsted is a long climb from Aspiring Hut, especially as it is commonly combined with an ascent of Tyndall. The climb to the top of the saddle takes about 4 hours, with a further 3 to 4 hours to reach the top of Mt Ansted.", "ascent": null } ], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/otago/huxley-range/stevenson-pk": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/otago/huxley-range/stevenson-pk", "name": "Stevenson Pk", "altitude": "2386m", "access": null, "description": "TBA", "latlng": [ "-44.0437", "169.6975" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/otago/huxley-range/stevenson-pk/meat-axe", "name": "Meat Axe", "grade": "4", "topo_ref": null, "image": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/route/IMG_3210.JPG?itok=-v6tnmph", "images": [ { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/route/IMG_3210.JPG?itok=-v6tnmph", "height": "244", "width": "325" } ], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "4", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": null } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": "This south face route begins left of centre on the obvious tall face.\nScramble up easy rock to a terrace. Follow this on a rising rightward\ntraverse till reaching the crest of a rib with a deep gully to the right.\nClimb the rib directly to the summit. The route avoids stonefall and provides\npleasant climbing on mainly good rock. 600m height gain, grade 14.", "ascent": "Peter Dickson, Bill McLeod March 1993" } ], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aspiring/snowdrift-range/pivot-pk": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aspiring/snowdrift-range/pivot-pk", "name": "Pivot Pk", "altitude": "2385m", "access": null, "description": null, "latlng": [ "-44.446764", "168.565444" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aspiring/snowdrift-range/pivot-pk/whitbourn-saddle", "name": "From Whitbourn Saddle", "grade": null, "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "From Whitbourn Saddle climb over the Snow Dome and ascend the South Ridge, the easier North Ridge, or the West Ridge." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": null } ], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/c58dhau-landsborough/naumann-range/pt-2385": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/c58dhau-landsborough/naumann-range/pt-2385", "name": "Pt 2385", "altitude": "2385m", "access": null, "description": null, "latlng": [ "-43.9438", "169.8931" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/%C5%8Dhau-landsborough/naumann-range/pt-2385/south-face", "name": "South Face", "grade": "2", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "2", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": null } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": "From Sutherland Stream at 1300m altitude pick a line up the face to the easy\nsnow slope just east of the summit.", "ascent": "Hugh Nicholson, January 1996" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/%C5%8Dhau-landsborough/naumann-range/pt-2385/south-ridge", "name": "South Ridge", "grade": "2", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "2", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": null } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": "From the col between Glencairn and Peak 2385, traverse the delicate ridge\nover the multiple peaks of 2385, and descend to the north toward Glenisla.\nWinter conditions help bind the loose rock together on the ridge. A lengthy\nwinter climb.\nWe climb on the east of the ridge up pleasant mixed ground. Easy going broken\nregularly by small two to four metre rock steps. Cold fingers scraping snow\noff unseen holds. The rope comes out a few times and there are some\nsurprisingly hard moves. Our hearts quake when we have to cross a 25cm wide\npowder snow ar\u00eate for five metres. We try to carefully compact steps without\ndestroying the delicate structure we are standing on. 'If you fall, make sure\nyou fall left,' I call to Al, as I'm standing on the right to belay. Somehow\nthis doesn't seem to reassure him all that much.\nSam Bosshard, New Zealand Alpine Journal, 1992.", "ascent": "Sam Bosshard, Al Ritchie, 1992" } ], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aspiring/main-divide/fastness-pk": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aspiring/main-divide/fastness-pk", "name": "Fastness Pk", "altitude": "2383m", "access": null, "description": "To gaze up at the East Face from Ruth Flat\u2026 \u2018a great featureless rock wall rising 1000m with no lines, no cracks, no ledges\u2019 and the reason for the name is clear.\nNo less awesome today than how it was perceived fifty years ago, the East Face of Fastness has proven to be a little shorter at 750m and there are cracks and ledges. But the climbing is as awesome as it was originally perceived to be, as Peter Dickson and his Polish partner, Miroslavc Sveticic found out when they made the first ascent in 1990. The pair accessed the face directly from Ruth Flat up the waterfall issuing from the face. In Peter\u2019s understated comment \u2018It\u2019s not a good way to get there\u2019, he sums up how well defended the face is.\nThe West Ridge of Fastness and first ascent of the peak was completed by Paul Powell, Colin Marshall, John Sage and Earle Riddiford in Dec 1945 from a camp on the Volta Glacier. Twenty years later Paul Powell was again camped on the Volta, this time to make the first ascent of the North Ridge with Keith Skinner, Peter Child and Geoff Bayliss on January 2, 1965.\nThe South Ridge was first ascended by Garth Matterson, Don Mee and Dave Tarrant on January 4, 1959. The mountain, and in particular the East Face, has everything the modern alpinist could wish for and will always deliver an intense experience.", "latlng": [ "-44.36259568", "168.80824162" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aspiring/main-divide/fastness-pk/north-ridge", "name": "North Ridge", "grade": "III,1+", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": "III", "mtcook": "1+", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "The first 300m are steep and are climbed by a series of steep and loose rock couloirs, with some difficult pitches towards the top. The angle then eases and a long section can be turned on easy snow on the west side, before a final short, steep rock pitch leads to the summit." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Paul Powell, Keith Skinner, Peter Child and Geoff Bayliss, January 1965" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aspiring/main-divide/fastness-pk/south-ridge", "name": "South Ridge", "grade": "III,1", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": "III", "mtcook": "1", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "The South Ridge is a straightforward rock ridge rising from the Volta Glacier near Rainbow Col. This col is not accessible from the east. To descend the South Ridge to Moncrieff Col would take about 3 hours." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Garth Matterson, Don Mee and Dave Tarrant, January 1959" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aspiring/main-divide/fastness-pk/east-ridge", "name": "East Ridge", "grade": "III,3+", "topo_ref": "4", "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": "III", "mtcook": "3+", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "The ridge rises steeply for about 400m in a series of buttresses from the west end of Wilmot Saddle. The rock is generally poor, and is muddy and vegetated on the East Face side. Belay points are found using pitons and a good selection are recommended for this route. The ridge was also descended after the first winter ascent using two 60m ropes and pitons. Normal descent routes available are via Moncrieff Col or Ruth Ridge.\r\n\r\nGain the foot of the ridge from Wilmot Saddle or by steep gullies leading to a prominent notch at the foot of the ridge. When there is sufficient snow the gully option is the best. The first buttress is good rock and may be climbed direct; thereafter the crest of the ridge is followed where practicable until the angle eases and either the ridge or a snow route on the South Face can be followed to the summit. Although the first buttress is the most technically demanding part of the climb, the first party considered a very steep, poorly protected pitch of mud and rubbish necessary to bypass the third step, as the crux. It may be possible to bypass this pitch by continuing straight up the buttress, although this may be more technical. \r\n\r\nTimes. From Wilmot Saddle to the top of the steep section takes about four hours, with a further two hours to the summit. From the summit to Moncrieff Col requires about three hours." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Bruce Robertson and Laurie Kennedy, January 1974" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aspiring/main-divide/fastness-pk/south-face", "name": "South Face", "grade": "13,4", "topo_ref": null, "image": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/route/fastness-route.jpg?itok=alHc_nrK", "images": [ { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/route/fastness-route.jpg?itok=alHc_nrK", "height": "217", "width": "325" } ], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "4", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": "13", "description": "Lots of stuff at about rock grade 13. Quite a complicated route with lots of off-angle ledges." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Erik Bradshaw, Feb 2014" } ], "places": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/main-divide-of-the-southern-alps/fastness-pk/east-face", "name": "East Face", "altitude": null, "access": null, "description": "Sustained rock climbing in summer, steep ice in winter.", "latlng": null, "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/main-divide-of-the-southern-alps/fastness-pk/east-face/storming-barbican", "name": "Storming the Barbican", "grade": "VI,6", "topo_ref": "5", "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": "VI", "mtcook": "6", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "This 16-pitch winter route aims for a series of corners just left of the summit pyramid. The most difficult section is on the upper third of the face with two crux pitches of steep technical ice. At half height there is a large obvious steep gully which was avoided by traversing into the top from out left. \r\n\r\nThe first ascent party experienced an unplanned bivvy near the top of the face below the final crux, but this could have been avoided by an earlier start and climbing in the longer daylight hours of August. This crux was a pitch of near vertical chandelier water ice. \r\n\r\nIf the face is climbed in thin conditions, short snowstakes, pitons and snargs to bash, weld and coax into the mountain would be better than a rack of shiny titanium ice screws, although these would still come in handy. The face seems to form up between June and September. After September, because of the low altitude and sunny aspect, the ice on the face probably self-destructs." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Clinton Beavan, Al Wood & Allan Uren, July 1997" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/main-divide-of-the-southern-alps/fastness-pk/east-face/sveticic-dickson", "name": "Sveticic-Dickson", "grade": "IV,5", "topo_ref": "6", "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": "IV", "mtcook": "5", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "Access to the East Face is via the Rainbow Valley and gullies on the south side of Wilmot Saddle to a notch at the base of the East Ridge. This notch leads down onto a large terrace that bisects the bottom of the face.\r\n\r\nThe East Face is a spectacular sweep of rock. The upper third is the steepest section. The first ascent of the face took a line up the center, topping out close to the summit. The route starts on the right hand side of three faint pillars in the middle of the face. Careful route finding is required through the top of these, at grade 16, as you move slightly left to line up with the top of the summit pyramid.\r\n\r\nIt then carries on up to a pocketed slab on fantastic rock (grade 14 or not, take heaps of cams from size #1 Friend to #1 Camalot because you will wish to belay this if possible because the route is very hard to read from one move to the next due to it all being on horizontal pockets). This steepens and merges with the summit pyramid, a loose blocky grade 17. Sveticic & Dickson soloed most of the route, belaying only two pitches, in three and a half hours. \r\n\r\nOther rock routes are possible on this huge face. Note the summit pyramid is not the summit, the real summit is several hundred metres to the west. Descent was down the North Ridge, scrambling down ledge systems to the big terrace that bisects the bottom of the face, an easy descent route." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Peter Dickson and Miroslav Sveticic, March 1990" } ], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] } ], "image": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/wide/public/image/FastnessE_fmt.jpeg?itok=mlo52QBY", "images": [ { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/wide/public/image/FastnessE_fmt.jpeg?itok=mlo52QBY", "height": "206", "width": "320" }, { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/image/Fastness_East_fmt_1.jpeg?itok=rzlntcOz", "height": "224", "width": "325" }, { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/image/29_Volta_fmt.jpeg?itok=y_Fasav-", "height": "214", "width": "320" } ] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/otago/huxley-range/anita-pk": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/otago/huxley-range/anita-pk", "name": "Anita Pk", "altitude": "2380m", "access": null, "description": "Huxley Range", "latlng": [ "-44.0097952", "169.70313753" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/otago/huxley-range/anita-pk/south-east-ridge", "name": "South East Ridge", "grade": "3-", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "3-", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": null } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": "From Huxley Forks Hut cross the footbridge and travel up the South Huxley for\na kilometre before beginning a climb up mixed rock and snowslope to gain the\nridge and traverse from there to the summit.", "ascent": "Jim Crozier, Stewart Ombler November 1934" } ], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/c58dhau-landsborough/ben-ohau-range/mt-edgar-thomson": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/c58dhau-landsborough/ben-ohau-range/mt-edgar-thomson", "name": "Mt Edgar Thomson", "altitude": "2379m", "access": null, "description": "Edgar Thomson is the northernmost peak of the Ben Ohau Range. Jane Thomson and Conrad Kain claimed the first ascent in 1915 in preparation for their Grand Traverse of Aoraki Mt Cook, undertaken the following year when Thomson was 57. Thomson named the peak after her son Edgar who died from a football injury.", "latlng": [ "-43.779", "170.0639" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/%C5%8Dhau-landsborough/ben-ohau-range/mt-edgar-thomson/west-face", "name": "West Face", "grade": "12,3+,III", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": "3+", "commitment": "III", "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": "12", "description": null } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": "The base of this route is easily accessible from Jamieson Saddle. Scramble up mainly good, exposed rock on the central pillar of the west buttress leading to the subsidiary south-west peak. Follow the ridge to the main summit.", "ascent": "Tim Steward, Reg Measures, 13 February 2012" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/%C5%8Dhau-landsborough/ben-ohau-range/mt-edgar-thomson/south-ridge", "name": "South Ridge", "grade": "1,I,1", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": "1", "commitment": "I", "mtcook": "1", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "From Jamieson Saddle travel for two kilometres along the ridge to the summit." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Charlie Collins, David Hall, Priestly Thomson, March 1946" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/%C5%8Dhau-landsborough/ben-ohau-range/mt-edgar-thomson/south-face", "name": "South Face", "grade": "2,I,2", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": "2", "commitment": "I", "mtcook": "2", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "Travel up Birch Hill Stream until past the last sub-alpine vegetation, then angle up the steep lower slopes and the snowfield to the summit." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "J A Roberts, Clem Williams, March 1925" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/%C5%8Dhau-landsborough/ben-ohau-range/mt-edgar-thomson/east-ridge", "name": "East Ridge", "grade": "1+,I,2", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": "1+", "commitment": "I", "mtcook": "2", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "From the Hoophorn Stream scramble to the saddle west of Mt Hodgkinson, then travel up the ridge and snowslope to the summit. The connecting ridge to Mt Sealy provides excellent alpine rockclimbing. The summit of Edgar Thomson provides a superb viewpoint into the Dobson Valley, Aoraki Mt Cook National Park, and the McKenzie Basin." } ], "quality": 1, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Jane Thomson, Conrad Kain, April 1915" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/%C5%8Dhau-landsborough/ben-ohau-range/mt-edgar-thomson/central-rib", "name": "Central Rib", "grade": "3,III,2+", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": "3", "commitment": "III", "mtcook": "2+", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "Climb the vague rib on the North East Face that begins in the true right of the upper Hoophorn basin and runs up the centre of the face." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Hans Muller, Otto Van Allman, 1973" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/%C5%8Dhau-landsborough/ben-ohau-range/mt-edgar-thomson/whiteley-woute", "name": "Whiteley Woute", "grade": "2+,III,2+", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": "2+", "commitment": "III", "mtcook": "2+", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "From the upper reaches of Hoophorn Stream follow a steep snow lead to reach the ridge close to the summit. The first ascent is reputed to have been completed by moonlight after a pub session had concluded the face was overdue an ascent!" } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Richard Whiteley, July 1971" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/%C5%8Dhau-landsborough/ben-ohau-range/mt-edgar-thomson/north-east-face-variant", "name": "North East Face Variant", "grade": "3,III,2+", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": "3", "commitment": "III", "mtcook": "2+", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": null } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": "Begin at the base of the Whiteley Woute, but instead of following the gully, move right onto a vague rib. Good rock on the lower half, but angles back and becomes more shattered higher up. This route avoids the worst of the avalanche danger, and reaches the ridge about 200m north-west of the summit.", "ascent": "Luke Barrett, October 2011" } ], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/westland/john-pascoe-ridge/snowy-pk": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/westland/john-pascoe-ridge/snowy-pk", "name": "Snowy Pk", "altitude": "2376m", "access": null, "description": "na", "latlng": [ "-43.316436", "170.74316" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/westland/john-pascoe-ridge/snowy-pk/garden-allah", "name": "From the Garden of Allah.", "grade": "1", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "1", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "Easy snow climb from the Garden of Allah." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Ebenezer Teichelmann, Jack Clarke, Alec Graham, 6th Feb 1911." } ], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/c58dhau-landsborough/naumann-range/pt-2376": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/c58dhau-landsborough/naumann-range/pt-2376", "name": "Pt 2376", "altitude": "2376m", "access": null, "description": null, "latlng": [ "-43.946", "169.8912" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/%C5%8Dhau-landsborough/naumann-range/pt-2376/south-face", "name": "South Face", "grade": "2", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "2", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": null } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": "From Sutherland Stream at 1300m altitude pick a line up the face to the easy\nsnow slope just east of the summit.", "ascent": "Hugh Nicholson, January 1996" } ], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/otago/huxley-range/mt-calvin": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/otago/huxley-range/mt-calvin", "name": "Mt Calvin", "altitude": "2375m", "access": null, "description": "TBA", "latlng": [ "-44.1357912978", "169.616081048" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/otago/huxley-range/mt-calvin/east-face", "name": "East Face", "grade": "2-", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "2-", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": null } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": "From the Ahuriri Valley negotiate some bluffs before cramponing up the slope\nto reach the east ridge leading to the summit.", "ascent": "Lindsay Crozier, Jim Crozier, S.Rose, February 1939" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/otago/huxley-range/mt-calvin/taurus-east-face", "name": "Taurus (East Face)", "grade": "2", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "2", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "1500 metre from the valley floor to the summit. The first 200 metres and the final (rimed) 200 present the greatest challenges." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Ross Cullen, Nick Shearer, April 2012" } ], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/canterbury/two-thumb-range/captains-pk": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/canterbury/two-thumb-range/captains-pk", "name": "Captains Pk", "altitude": "2371m", "access": null, "description": "Great Ski touring!", "latlng": [ "-43.64297", "170.712605" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/canterbury/two-thumb-range/captains-pk/two-thumb-stream", "name": "From Two Thumb Stream", "grade": "1", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "1", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "Captains Peak and the nearby Point 2353m can be climbed directly from Two Thumb Stream via long scree slopes, or included as part of a ridge traverse." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": null } ], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/kaikoura/inland-kaikoura-range/mt-gladstone": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/kaikoura/inland-kaikoura-range/mt-gladstone", "name": "Mt Gladstone", "altitude": "2371m", "access": null, "description": null, "latlng": null, "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/kaikoura/inland-kaikoura-range/mt-gladstone/south-east-couloir", "name": "South East Couloir", "grade": "1", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": "1", "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "From the Hodder River, cross the Red Hills, either at map ref. O30/615142 or at O30/605118, and traverse to the saddle at the head of Trail Stream. Climb a long couloir to the summit." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": null }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/kaikoura/inland-kaikoura-range/mt-gladstone/otterson-stream-route", "name": "Otterson Stream Route", "grade": "1", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": "1", "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "Follow the Otterson till it forks (good camp site here). Climb to the ridge above and follow it, over points 1382m and 2012m, then onto a scree slope and the final climb to the peak." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": null }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/kaikoura/inland-kaikoura-range/mt-gladstone/winterton-river-route", "name": "Winterton River Route", "grade": "1", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": "1", "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "Follow the Winterton to a small stream coming off Mt Gladstone and climb onto the ridge south of Gladstone Stream. A fairly long route, easy at first, then higher up the rock outcrops and buttresses give good scrambling." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": null } ], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/canterbury/armoury-range/bardolph-pk": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/canterbury/armoury-range/bardolph-pk", "name": "Bardolph Pk", "altitude": "2368m", "access": null, "description": "na", "latlng": [ "-43.33729", "170.846415" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/canterbury/armoury-range/bardolph-pk/north-east-and-south-west-ridges", "name": "North East and South West Ridges", "grade": null, "topo_ref": "NE-SW", "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "A short climb on good rock. Originally climbed as part of a traverse from Pistol Peak." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "H W (Sandy) Cormack, Lloyd Wilson, R E (Gran) Clark, December 1933" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/canterbury/armoury-range/bardolph-pk/traverse", "name": "Traverse", "grade": "1+", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "1+", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "From Gladiator Col, climb along the ridge, traversing Pistol, then up good solid\r\nslabs on the western side of Bardolph to the top." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Dave Clark, Dave Bartle, December 1969" } ], "places": [], "image": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/wide/public/image/Bardolph.png?itok=d0UlRO1_", "images": [ { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/wide/public/image/Bardolph.png?itok=d0UlRO1_", "height": "582", "width": "900" } ] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aspiring/volta-glacier/glacier-dome": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aspiring/volta-glacier/glacier-dome", "name": "Glacier Dome", "altitude": "2367m", "access": null, "description": "Glacier Dome has the distinction of being the first mountain in the area to be climbed as a recreational exercise. Admittedly Ebenezer Teichelmann, Alec Graham and Jack Clarke had higher aspirations in 1908, but they found their time exhausted after their long journey up the Waiatoto River. On February 1 they climbed a leading ridge north of the Volta icefall to reach a rocky peak (2015 m) above the n\u00e9v\u00e9. Descending to the glacier they then crossed over to the easy slopes of Glacier Dome, from where they admired Aspiring, their elusive objective.", "latlng": [ "-44.33643864", "168.80758505" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aspiring/volta-glacier/glacier-dome/ruth-ridge", "name": "Via Ruth Ridge", "grade": "2,III", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": "0m", "pitches": [ { "alpine": "2", "commitment": "III", "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": null } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": "0", "natural_pro": false, "description": "Climb Ruth Ridge and cross the Volta to the straightforward snow slopes leading to the summit of Glacier Dome, five to six hours from Ruth Flat. Getting onto the Volta may be problematic at times, e.g. late summer, due to a steep broken section.", "ascent": null } ], "places": [], "image": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/wide/public/image/29_Volta_fmt_0.jpeg?itok=ee3xCSLi", "images": [ { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/wide/public/image/29_Volta_fmt_0.jpeg?itok=ee3xCSLi", "height": "214", "width": "320" } ] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/canterbury/froude-range/mt-nicholson-0": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/canterbury/froude-range/mt-nicholson-0", "name": "Mt Nicholson", "altitude": "2367m", "access": null, "description": "na", "latlng": [ "-43.31607087", "170.8061148" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/canterbury/froude-range/mt-nicholson-0/rangitata-col", "name": "From Rangitata Col", "grade": "1+", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "1+", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "Follow generally straightforward snow slopes. The final few metres are on steep loose rock." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": null }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/canterbury/froude-range/mt-nicholson-0/east-ridge", "name": "East Ridge", "grade": "2", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "2", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "From McCoy Col follow very loose rock along the East Ridge to the top. Reached from the\r\nupper Rakaia Valley on the first ascent." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Jim Dennistoun, Laurence Earle, Jack Clarke, March 1910" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/canterbury/froude-range/mt-nicholson-0/east-face", "name": "East Face", "grade": null, "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "Best attempted early in the season when covered in snow. Descend via the East Ridge to McCoy\r\nCol." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Evan Wilson, Doug Brough, Woolf Myhre, Boyne Myhre, H McD Vincent, December 1932" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/canterbury/froude-range/mt-nicholson-0/north-west-face", "name": "North West Face", "grade": "1+", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "1+", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "This face is commonly approached from the Rakaia River and Rangitata Col. From Rangitata\r\nCol, head up the broad glacier to the summit." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Jim Dennistoun, Laurence Earle, Jack Clarke, March 1910" } ], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/main-divide-of-the-southern-alps/charybdis": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/main-divide-of-the-southern-alps/charybdis", "name": "Charybdis", "altitude": "2367m", "access": null, "description": null, "latlng": [ "-44.389289", "168.756389" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/main-divide-southern-alps/charybdis/west-ridge", "name": "West Ridge", "grade": "II,1", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": "0m", "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": "II", "mtcook": "1", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "" } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": "0", "natural_pro": false, "description": "From Moncrieff Col traverse around the head of the Volta N\u00e9v\u00e9 beneath the ridge of the Main Divide before climbing about 100m of steep but easy rock to gain the upper shelf of the glacier. From the shelf good ledges lead up and east across the North Face of Scylla to give access to the col between Scylla and Charybdis. A short scramble on broken rock leads to the summit. The time to the top from Moncrieff Col is about five hours.", "ascent": "Graham Bishop, Roger Barrowclough, Henry Stoddart, December 1961" } ], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/canterbury/two-thumb-range/mt-ross": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/canterbury/two-thumb-range/mt-ross", "name": "Mt Ross", "altitude": "2366m", "access": null, "description": "tba", "latlng": [ "-43.59630094", "170.64892274" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/canterbury/two-thumb-range/mt-ross/macaulay-river", "name": "From Macaulay River", "grade": "1", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "1", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "From the Macaulay River climb straightforward scree and broken rock to the snow beneath\r\nthe summit. From here several options exist, with the southern ridge involving a rocky ridge\r\nof gendarmes." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Bill Cullens, Stan Forbes, Frank Gillett, December 1934" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/canterbury/two-thumb-range/mt-ross/north-east-ridge", "name": "North East Ridge", "grade": "1", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "1", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "From Ajax Stream climb scree and broken rock to the summit." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Jenny Caine, Nel Caine, January 1967" } ], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki/malte-brun-range/mt-cooper-1": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki/malte-brun-range/mt-cooper-1", "name": "Mt Cooper", "altitude": "2362m", "access": null, "description": "Malte Brun Range", "latlng": [ "-43.52194761", "170.38543582" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki/malte-brun-range/mt-cooper-1/standard-route", "name": "Standard Route", "grade": "1", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "1", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "An easy climb from all directions: from Starvation Saddle, the Mannering N\u00e9v\u00e9 or via number of options from the slopes above Murchison Hut." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "M Barford, J Moore, Dec 1943" } ], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/main-divide-of-the-southern-alps/alamein-pk": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/main-divide-of-the-southern-alps/alamein-pk", "name": "Alamein Pk", "altitude": "2361m", "access": null, "description": "(Middle Grey Virgin).\nCassino, Alamein and Takrouna were known as the Grey Virgins, and resisted attempts for many years. Alamein and Takrouna remain unclimbed directly from the Grey.", "latlng": [ "-43.447218", "170.466081" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/main-divide-of-the-southern-alps/alamein-pk/original-route", "name": "Original Route", "grade": "2", "topo_ref": "OR", "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "2", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "From the Nansen n\u00e9v\u00e9, the summit pyramid involves snow slopes or a rock scramble, depending\r\non conditions. A traverse of this peak along the Divide is straightforward." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Stan Conway, Matt Fowlds, John Sampson, Laurie Ryan, Jan 1949" } ], "places": [], "image": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/wide/public/image/Loughnan.png?itok=0aVevbYT", "images": [ { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/wide/public/image/Loughnan.png?itok=0aVevbYT", "height": "574", "width": "900" } ] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aspiring/main-divide/mt-alba": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aspiring/main-divide/mt-alba", "name": "Mt Alba", "altitude": "2360m", "access": null, "description": null, "latlng": [ "-44.16805226", "168.98723652" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aspiring/main-divide/mt-alba/south-west-face", "name": "South West Face", "grade": "II,2", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": "II", "mtcook": "2", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "From Newland Pass at the head of Newland Stream, cross the Axius Glacier and climb the short, steep face to gain the summit ridge." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "J D Knowles, A & G Edwards, L & A Divers, Dec 1939 (High Peak). T Barcham, A Cunningham, B D Matthews, G J McCallum, Dec 1950 (Middle and North Peaks)." }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aspiring/main-divide/mt-alba/east-ridge", "name": "East Ridge", "grade": "2,III", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": "0m", "pitches": [ { "alpine": "2", "commitment": "III", "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": null } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": "0", "natural_pro": false, "description": "Take the well formed track up to the Crucible, a spectacular hanging lake under the south-east face. From the lake outlet there are gullies that lead up to the ridge, after which there is a snowfield and straightforward ridge to the top. This route has had few ascents.", "ascent": null }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aspiring/main-divide/mt-alba/south-east-face", "name": "South East Face", "grade": "2,III", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": "0m", "pitches": [ { "alpine": "2", "commitment": "III", "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": null } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": "0", "natural_pro": false, "description": "The best time to climb this face would be in winter or early spring. This would mean fast access to the face across a frozen lake. Good judgement regarding conditions would be vital for this face. It is avalanche prone and there is a high rockfall hazard if temperatures are too warm. The route goes up the left hand side of the face via a series of steep gullies.", "ascent": "Phil Penney, Allan Uren, Spring 1993" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aspiring/main-divide/mt-alba/north-face", "name": "North Face", "grade": "2,II", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": "0m", "pitches": [ { "alpine": "2", "commitment": "II", "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": null } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": "0", "natural_pro": false, "description": "Gain ledges below the East Ridge and traverse to reach a snowfield and the foot of a rib leading to the middle peak.", "ascent": "H P Barcham, A W Bowden, D E Boyd, R J Cunninghame, January 1961" } ], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki/fox-glacier-te-moeka-o-tuawe/mt-anderegg": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki/fox-glacier-te-moeka-o-tuawe/mt-anderegg", "name": "Mt Anderegg", "altitude": "2360m", "access": null, "description": null, "latlng": null, "routes": [], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki/main-divide/lean-pk": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki/main-divide/lean-pk", "name": "Lean Pk", "altitude": "2360m", "access": null, "description": null, "latlng": [ "-43.65408693", "170.09479523" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki/main-divide/lean-pk/copland-pass", "name": "From Copland Pass", "grade": "2", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "2", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "A short ascent up steepish rock from Copland Pass" } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Peter Graham, Freda Du Faur, 1912." } ], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/canterbury/arrowsmith-range/ashburton-pk": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/canterbury/arrowsmith-range/ashburton-pk", "name": "Ashburton Pk", "altitude": "2359m", "access": null, "description": "na", "latlng": [ "-43.370741", "170.961256" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/canterbury/arrowsmith-range/ashburton-pk/lawrence-valley", "name": "From Lawrence Valley", "grade": "1+", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "1+", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "About 2 km north of Hermitage Hut follow a north-east trending spur before traversing into\r\na basin between Ashburton and Hakatere Peaks. From here the summits are straightforward\r\nclimbs." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": null }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/canterbury/arrowsmith-range/ashburton-pk/south-west-ridge", "name": "South West Ridge", "grade": "1+", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "1+", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "A grassy trough beside the lateral moraine at the foot of the Ashburton Glacier leads to scree\r\nslopes interspersed with rock bluffs. Climb these to the upper basin lying between Ashburton\r\nand Hakatere Peaks. From here reach the crest of the range and follow rock to the top." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Russell Pearce, Don Church, E Robb, February 1963" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/canterbury/arrowsmith-range/ashburton-pk/north-east-ridge", "name": "North East Ridge", "grade": "1+", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "1+", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "Head up snow slopes and a steep gully to join the North East Ridge a short distance from the\r\ntop." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Russell Pearce, Don Church, E Robb (descended), February 1963" } ], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/%C5%8Dhau-landsborough/main-divide/mt-foster": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/%C5%8Dhau-landsborough/main-divide/mt-foster", "name": "Mt Foster", "altitude": "2359m", "access": null, "description": null, "latlng": [ "-43.776", "169.9706" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/%C5%8Dhau-landsborough/main-divide/mt-foster/mt-foster", "name": "Mt Foster", "grade": "3", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "3", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": null } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": "Unclimbed from the Selwyn Glacier as the terrain out of the Upper Dobson\nValley is steep and loose. Usually ascended via the Main Divide from either\nnorth or south. First ascent from the north along the Main Divide unknown.", "ascent": "Descended by Bill Beaven, Norman Hardie, Jim McFarlane, Earl Riddiford, January 1948" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/%C5%8Dhau-landsborough/main-divide/mt-foster/le-blanc-glacier-route", "name": "Le Blanc Glacier Route", "grade": "3", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "3", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": null } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": "Ascend the Le Blanc Glacier by surmounting the choked gully at mid-height,\nand continuing up the snowfield to the Main Divide. From the Divide, angle\nleft up rock until slope eases and traverse to the summit.", "ascent": "First to the Le Blanc neve, M.Bell, Jack Clarke, A.Wilson, 1908" } ], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki-tai-poutini/maximilian-range/wilczek-pk": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki-tai-poutini/maximilian-range/wilczek-pk", "name": "Wilczek Pk", "altitude": "2359m", "access": null, "description": "Wilczek Peak was named by the German zoologist and mountaineer Robert Von Lendenfeld in 1884.", "latlng": [ "-43.442201", "170.342846" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki-tai-poutini/maximilian-range/wilczek-pk/north-west-ridge", "name": "North West Ridge", "grade": "1+", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "1+", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "From Whymper Hut follow the Callery Saddle route to the snow basin east of the pass. Climb\r\nsnow slopes to a col south of Pt 2093 metres. Cross the Callery Glacier then ascend snow slopes\r\nand a short gully onto the North West Ridge. A quick rock scramble leads to the summit." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "D A Carty, L J Dumbleton, J D Willis, D J Stanton (from the Burton Glacier), 26 December 1937" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki-tai-poutini/maximilian-range/wilczek-pk/south-ridge", "name": "South Ridge", "grade": "1+", "topo_ref": "SR", "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "1+", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "From Whymper Hut, follow the gully draining between Mt Wilczek and Mt Alec, then snowfields\r\nbeyond Pt 1573 metres up towards the Maximilian Range. The pleasant rock scramble\r\nalong the South Ridge is a little longer and more challenging than that along the North West\r\nRidge, and leads over a subsidiary peak en route." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": null } ], "places": [], "image": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/wide/public/image/wilc.png?itok=Z6qzvCbD", "images": [ { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/wide/public/image/wilc.png?itok=Z6qzvCbD", "height": "576", "width": "900" } ] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/canterbury-westland-alps/main-divide/takrouna-pk": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/canterbury-westland-alps/main-divide/takrouna-pk", "name": "Takrouna Pk", "altitude": "2357m", "access": null, "description": "Cassino, Alamein and Takrouna were at one time known as the Grey Virgins, and resisted attempts for many years. Alamein and Takrouna remain unclimbed directly from the Grey.", "latlng": [ "-43.444539", "170.468484" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/canterbury-westland-alps/main-divide/takrouna-pk/south-ridge", "name": "South Ridge", "grade": null, "topo_ref": "SR", "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "Climbed from the Nansen Glacier, up the South (Divide) Ridge. A short and easy climb with a\r\nfew minutes of good rock at the top." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "John Harrison, B H (Snow) Williams, Laurie Osborne, Bruce Waterhouse, Jan 1954" } ], "places": [], "image": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/wide/public/image/Loughnan_0.png?itok=c2puRb08", "images": [ { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/wide/public/image/Loughnan_0.png?itok=c2puRb08", "height": "574", "width": "900" } ] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aspiring/main-divide/mt-french": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aspiring/main-divide/mt-french", "name": "Mt French", "altitude": "2356m", "access": null, "description": null, "latlng": [ "-44.411657", "168.716085" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aspiring/main-divide/mt-french/west-face", "name": "West Face", "grade": "II,1", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": "0m", "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": "II", "mtcook": "1", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": null } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": "0", "natural_pro": false, "description": "Follow the Breakaway route from French Ridge Hut across the West Face towards the Bonar until either the first or second ramp above the Quarterdeck can be climbed to the summit ridge. The climb would take three to four hours from the hut.\nThis route is subject to summer avalanches.", "ascent": null }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aspiring/main-divide/mt-french/bonar-glacier", "name": "From Bonar Glacier", "grade": "II,1", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": "0m", "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": "II", "mtcook": "1", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": null } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": "0", "natural_pro": false, "description": "From the top of the Quarterdeck traverse north-west along an easy snow ridge. Alternatively follow down the Bonar, striking up on to the ridge at any convenient point. Time, from French Ridge Hut to the summit, is about three hours.", "ascent": "Frank Wright, December 1914" } ], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/c58dhau-landsborough/naumann-range/reticence-pk": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/c58dhau-landsborough/naumann-range/reticence-pk", "name": "Reticence Pk", "altitude": "2356m", "access": null, "description": null, "latlng": [ "-43.85968283", "169.9416761" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/c58dhau-landsborough/naumann-range/reticence-pk/north-ridge", "name": "North Ridge", "grade": "1,I", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": "0m", "pitches": [ { "alpine": "1", "commitment": "I", "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": null } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": "0", "natural_pro": false, "description": "Beginning at BY15 512 381, follow a good animal trail leading through light scrub and tussock up the spur on the true right of the creek draining Reticence Peak. Higher up follow east scree slopes to the summit.", "ascent": null }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/c58dhau-landsborough/naumann-range/reticence-pk/south-face", "name": "South Face", "grade": "1,II", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": "0m", "pitches": [ { "alpine": "1", "commitment": "II", "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": null } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": "0", "natural_pro": false, "description": "Climb into the snow basin south of Reticence Peak via the stream north of S Bend Creek. Climb the snowfield on the south face aiming for the ridge 200m west of the summit then follow the easy ridge to the high point.", "ascent": "Rod Hewitt, Stan Barnett, Bill Bradshaw, December 1946" } ], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/c58dhau-landsborough/naumann-range/pt-2356": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/c58dhau-landsborough/naumann-range/pt-2356", "name": "Pt 2356", "altitude": "2356m", "access": null, "description": "\u201cMt Buckhurst\u201d is one of a number of peaks above 2200m between Tragedy Col and Reticence Peak. The name was proposed after a Crown Lands Ranger of Canterbury and visitor to high country stations who loved to paint the mountains. From the Hopkins River the tops gain be gained easily up a spur at BY15 512 381 by following a good animal trail through light scrub and the range can be traversed below the ridge crest all the way to Tragedy Col with great views of the Main Divide. Most the summits on the ridge have been climbed from the Hopkins side.", "latlng": [ "-43.8596", "169.9409" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/c58dhau-landsborough/naumann-range/pt-2356/north-west-face", "name": "North West Face", "grade": "2,II", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": "0m", "pitches": [ { "alpine": "2", "commitment": "II", "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": null } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": "0", "natural_pro": false, "description": "Steep scrambling on very loose rock. Higher up trend right to gain the north-west ridge below the summit. The first ascent party descended the north ridge, first via a snow couloir and lower down via a rock chute prone to rockfall.", "ascent": "Rex Booth, A McD Vincent, Minson, December 1934" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/c58dhau-landsborough/naumann-range/pt-2356/north-west-ridge", "name": "North West Ridge", "grade": "2,II", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": "0m", "pitches": [ { "alpine": "2", "commitment": "II", "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": null } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": "0", "natural_pro": false, "description": "Sidle around outlier Pt 2113m on the south side, gain the saddle between the outlier and Pk 2356m and climb the north-west ridge which is moderately steep and a little loose. About 80m below the summit a steep snow couloir comes up to meet the ridge. A good descent route.", "ascent": "Phillip Tree, January 1995" } ], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/c58dhau-landsborough/hooker-range/mt-elliot": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/c58dhau-landsborough/hooker-range/mt-elliot", "name": "Mt Elliot", "altitude": "2355m", "access": null, "description": "TBA", "latlng": [ "-43.7909", "169.7811" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/westland/hooker-range/mt-elliot/north-east-ridge", "name": "North East Ridge", "grade": "3,III", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": "0m", "pitches": [ { "alpine": "3", "commitment": "III", "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": null } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": "0", "natural_pro": false, "description": "From the Landsborough, climb the spur on the true right of Zora Creek through bush and negotiate bluffs to a tarn-studded shelf at 920m. From here, climb to Pt 1953m and negotiate crevassed slopes to gain the north ridge leading to Elliot. A difficult climb, the first ascent party took six hours on one 300m section.", "ascent": "Bill Beaven, Norman Hardie, Jim McFarlane, February 1947" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/westland/hooker-range/mt-elliot/north-west-face", "name": "North West Face", "grade": "2+,III", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": "0m", "pitches": [ { "alpine": "2+", "commitment": "III", "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": null } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": "0", "natural_pro": false, "description": "Easy ground leads to the Edison Glacier. Continue on to the peak on solid, steep rock.", "ascent": "Trevor McCann, Maurie Bishop, April 1952" } ], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/main-divide-of-the-southern-alps/mt-westland": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/main-divide-of-the-southern-alps/mt-westland", "name": "Mt Westland", "altitude": "2355m", "access": null, "description": "James Westland, (Jims Knob in the Ramsay) a friend of the surveyor GJ Roberts, visited the Rakaia in March 1893.", "latlng": [ "-43.264726", "170.864752" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/main-divide-of-the-southern-alps/mt-westland/south-east-ridge", "name": "South East Ridge", "grade": null, "topo_ref": "SE", "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "From the upper Cockayne Glacier find a suitable crossing point to the Clarke Glacier between\r\nMt Ramsay and Pt 2332 metres and continue to the South East Ridge. From here, follow steep\r\ngood rock initially, then loose rotten rock as the ridge eases." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Sidney (Archie) Wiren, H W (Sandy) Cormack, E C A Ferrier, A Claridge, December 1931" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/main-divide-southern-alps/mt-westland/west-ridge", "name": "West Ridge", "grade": "3,III", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": "0m", "pitches": [ { "alpine": "3", "commitment": "III", "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": null } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": "0", "natural_pro": false, "description": "Climbed as part of a Transalpine thru-trip with a multiday pack (including rack and rope, unused here). From a camp on a beautiful plateau a few hundred meters up the spur NE of Swift Water (1-person enclosed bivvy rock, or marginal 2-person shelter rock), probably at 1570m, generally follow the ridge. Scrambling with some hard scrambling and some easy rockclimbing, often on fairly good red sandstone greywacke. Gain 2264 by some good quality lower-grade rockclimbing, gained by move left of the ridge (exposed) then following a crack or line of weakness (exposed). To descend, take a line to the beautiful Clarke Gl. neve blending the easiest terrain of the EF and (loose!) SE ridge, downclimbing WI2 waterice in one location. The first ascentionist then descended the Cockayne Gl. to the Rakia although the map indicates various possible descent options back towards the Lord.", "ascent": "Ruari Macfarlane, April 2022" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/main-divide-of-the-southern-alps/mt-westland/east-face", "name": "East Face", "grade": null, "topo_ref": "EF", "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "From the Clarke n\u00e9v\u00e9 directly under Mt Westland, scramble up firm and loose rock." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Paul Richardson, Rodger Redmayne, Trevor Bissell, Tony Gazely, January 1986" } ], "places": [], "image": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/wide/public/image/Westland.png?itok=5JrniRiE", "images": [ { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/wide/public/image/Westland.png?itok=5JrniRiE", "height": "618", "width": "900" }, { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/image/Mt%20Westland.png?itok=n9gpe5QH", "height": "164", "width": "325" } ] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/main-divide-of-the-southern-alps/mt-shyness": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/main-divide-of-the-southern-alps/mt-shyness", "name": "Mt Shyness", "altitude": "2355m", "access": null, "description": "tba", "latlng": [ "-43.41720592", "170.58094025" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/main-divide-of-the-southern-alps/mt-shyness/stewart-saddle", "name": "From Stewart Saddle", "grade": null, "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "Climb from Stewart Saddle or Amherst Glacier. Head up snow slopes onto a snow ridge that leads past a prominent rock pinnacle toward the summit. Alternatively, climb the snow face of Petermann from the Amherst, then over the ridge to easy snow slopes on the Sealy Pass side." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "V R McGregor, J Dampier-Crossley, Jan 1961. Elaine Norton and J Shanks climbed a virgin peak in this area in Jan 1941, which may have been the pinnacle described above." }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/main-divide-of-the-southern-alps/mt-shyness/amherst-glacier", "name": "From the Amherst Glacier", "grade": null, "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "From the Amherst Glacier follow up the glacier immediately east of Petermann and cross over the ridge to easy snow slopes on the Sealy Pass side." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "VR McGregor, J Dampier-Crossley, Jan 1961." } ], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/canterbury/arrowsmith-range/south-pk": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/canterbury/arrowsmith-range/south-pk", "name": "South Pk", "altitude": "2354m", "access": null, "description": "na", "latlng": [ "-43.384591", "170.954304" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/canterbury/arrowsmith-range/south-pk/west-face", "name": "West Face", "grade": null, "topo_ref": "WF", "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "The steep West Face is relatively easy to reach but only one route exists, a scramble\r\non good rock." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "L Basher, M Sinclair, Ian Whitehouse, February 1979" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/canterbury/arrowsmith-range/south-pk/south-ridge-lawrence", "name": "South Ridge, via Lawrence", "grade": "1+", "topo_ref": "SR", "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "1+", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "Climb the spur on the northern side of the creek that joins the Lawrence River immediately\r\nnorth of Hermitage Hut. Gain the high col overlooking the South Ashburton Valley and follow\r\nthe rock ridge northwards. The first narrow ar\u00eate can be traversed or turned on a series of ledges\r\nto the west, and broken blocks lead to a final short traverse to the summit over an exposed, narrow\r\nridge of very loose argillite \u2013 many parties stop at this point." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Peter Bain, Colin Burrows, Bill Corbett, March 1959" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/canterbury/arrowsmith-range/south-pk/south-ridge-hakatere", "name": "South Ridge, via Hakatere", "grade": "1+", "topo_ref": "SR", "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "1+", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "Best attempted from the hanging valley that joins the main valley a short distance up the lateral\r\nmoraine. Move up over glaciated slopes to gain the ridge overlooking the Lawrence, slightly\r\nsouth of the summit. Broken blocks lead to a final short traverse to the summit over an exposed,\r\nnarrow ridge of very loose argillite \u2013 many parties stop at this point." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": null }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/canterbury/arrowsmith-range/south-pk/north-east-face", "name": "North East Face", "grade": "1+", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "1+", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "Follow the top of the lateral moraine above the Ashburton Glacier to the basin between South\r\nand Hakatere Peaks. Follow a snow slope and very rotten rock to the summit." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": null }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/canterbury/arrowsmith-range/south-pk/east-ridge", "name": "East Ridge", "grade": null, "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "Sidle into the basin below South Peak and head to a gut between the summit and the first gendarme\r\nto the south. After climbing the gut, follow the last section of very rotten ridge to the top." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Nancy Cawley, Bryan Fineran, Philip Temple, Colin Burrows, Murray Dukes (descended)," }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/canterbury/arrowsmith-range/south-pk/north-ridge", "name": "North Ridge", "grade": "2", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": "2", "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": null } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": "From the col between Hakatere and South Peak, climb the ridge. 2 short\npitches.", "ascent": "Yossi Jagger, Catherine Loye, March 2014" } ], "places": [], "image": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/wide/public/image/South%20Pk.png?itok=rGA2HQ2p", "images": [ { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/wide/public/image/South%20Pk.png?itok=rGA2HQ2p", "height": "614", "width": "862" } ] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aspiring/barrier-range/albert-pk": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aspiring/barrier-range/albert-pk", "name": "Albert Pk", "altitude": "2353m", "access": null, "description": "Called David in original articles and early sketch maps.", "latlng": [ "-44.49662172", "168.33407" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aspiring/barrier-range/albert-pk/abruzzi-glacier", "name": "From Abruzzi Glacier", "grade": null, "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "From Abruzzi Glacier (reached as for Johansen), at the only spot where there are not icefalls or cliffs cross until overlooking the Margaret Glacier and then climb across steep ice slopes over the shoulder and the next ice field to the larger neve feeding the Joe Glacier on the south side of Gates. A rock couloir then leads to the summit." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": null } ], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aspiring/haast-range/stargazer": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aspiring/haast-range/stargazer", "name": "Stargazer", "altitude": "2353m", "access": null, "description": "Stargazer is the highest of the Haast Range peaks. Until December 17, 1935, when it was climbed by Harry Stevenson, Doug Dick, Stewart Ombler, Scott Gilkison, and Jim Dawson the peak reigned as the elusive virgin of the Otago mountains.", "latlng": [ "-44.34129196", "168.71934362" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aspiring/haast-range/stargazer/east-face", "name": "East Face", "grade": "III,2+", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": "III", "mtcook": "2+", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "Climb to the top of Shipowner Ridge and cross the snow saddle leading to the Therma N\u00e9v\u00e9. Traverse on moderately steep snow beneath the rocky eastern faces of Rolling Pin, Mainroyal and Skyscraper to reach the heavily crevassed slopes leading up to the ridge near the centre of the Skyscraper-Stargazer massif. The schrunds under this face may prove difficult, as they appear to have become more pronounced in recent years. The ridge is gained a few metres south of the summit and easy snow leads to the top.\r\n\r\nThe face may also be reached by crossing the Skyscraper-Mainroyal Col from the west. A schrund on the east side of the col is sometimes awkward. In good snow conditions the climb should take about six hours from the hut to the summit." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Harry Stevenson, Doug Dick, Stewart Ombler, Scott Gilkison, Jim Dawson, December 1935" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aspiring/haast-range/stargazer/west-ridge", "name": "West Ridge", "grade": "III,3", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": "III", "mtcook": "3", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "From Colin Todd Hut cross the Iso and Dipso Glaciers at about the same height as the hut and follow a steep snow lead up to a level section on the West Ridge, about 300 metres below the summit. The steep rock ridge is then followed, with the more difficult moves occurring on its lower sections. Near the top, the ridge peters out and it may be necessary to move out on to the face to the south to gain the summit ridge, six to seven hours out from the hut." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Ash Cunningham, Graham McCallum, January 1951" } ], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aspiring/forbes-mountains/turret-head": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aspiring/forbes-mountains/turret-head", "name": "Turret Head", "altitude": "2350m", "access": null, "description": null, "latlng": [ "-44.65862668", "168.380014" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aspiring/forbes-mountains/turret-head/west-face", "name": "West Face", "grade": "I,1", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": "I", "mtcook": "1", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "From Dans Paddock in the Dart Valley climb above the bush line to gain a long couloir leading to the main ridge, then go left to the summit." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "H.D. Bedford, J.E. Walker Dec. 1914." }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aspiring/forbes-mountains/turret-head/north-east-ridge", "name": "North East Ridge", "grade": "I,1", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": "I", "mtcook": "1", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "From the head of the Earnslaw Burn gain a small grassy ledge above the waterfall (120m). Then follow round the corner to gain the northeast ridge to the summit." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "H.D. Bedford, J.E. Walker Dec. 1914." } ], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/canterbury/froude-range/mt-goethe": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/canterbury/froude-range/mt-goethe", "name": "Mt Goethe", "altitude": "2350m", "access": null, "description": null, "latlng": [ "-43.321306", "170.843754" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/canterbury/froude-range/mt-goethe/west-ridge", "name": "West Ridge", "grade": "2-", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "2-", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "Follow the Lyell Glacier moraine to a prominent gully leading to View Peak. Follow the gully\r\nuntil above the steep lower slopes, then traverse towards Goethe. Climb steep rock and snow to\r\njoin the West Ridge \u2013 easiest west of Pt 2246 metres \u2013 then follow the straightforward rocky\r\nridge to the summit.\r\nThis ridge has been traversed from McCoy Col with much scrambling and rock climbing." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Bob Logan, Bruce Banfield, Ambrose Banfield, January 1938" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/canterbury/froude-range/mt-goethe/south-east-ridge", "name": "South East Ridge", "grade": "2+", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "2+", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "From Kirk Stream climb the loose rock face to the ridge and follow it to the summit. \r\nThe South East Ridge can be reached via Gladiator Col. Alternatively, follow a steep easttrending\r\nglacial lead from the glacier on the south face of Goethe, which joins the South East\r\nRidge about 150 metres below the summit." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Cliff Holdsworth, Ernie Rich, M D Watts, December 1933" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/canterbury/froude-range/mt-goethe/north-east-ridge", "name": "North East Ridge", "grade": null, "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "Climb the spur at the junction of Kirk Stream and the Lyell Glacier. Access to the spur is the\r\ncrux of the route." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Stan Conway, Alan Barnes, Syd Brookes, September 1937" } ], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aspiring/snowdrift-range/pt-2348": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aspiring/snowdrift-range/pt-2348", "name": "Pt 2348", "altitude": "2348m", "access": null, "description": "Named Snow Dome in NZAC Journal 1969 Spotlight.", "latlng": [ "-44.448848", "168.568448" ], "routes": [], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/%C5%8Dhau-landsborough/main-divide/mt-nihokohatu": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/%C5%8Dhau-landsborough/main-divide/mt-nihokohatu", "name": "Mt Nihokohatu", "altitude": "2347m", "access": null, "description": null, "latlng": [ "-43.8341", "169.8675" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/%C5%8Dhau-landsborough/main-divide/mt-nihokohatu/upper-thompson-gorge", "name": "From the upper Thompson Gorge", "grade": "2+", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "2+", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": null } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": "Angle up the Foster Glacier to the shapely peak.\nB.N.Challis, Scott Gilkison, J.E.Richmond, February 1935.\nA variation is to traverse from the northeast along the divide to ascend the\nfinal 60m high rock tower.", "ascent": "B.Binning, J.Miller, Govan Wilson, December 1959" } ], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/canterbury/arrowsmith-range/marquee": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/canterbury/arrowsmith-range/marquee", "name": "The Marquee", "altitude": "2347m", "access": null, "description": null, "latlng": [ "-43.33984441", "171.04004118" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/canterbury/arrowsmith-range/the-marquee/north-west-ridge", "name": "North West Ridge", "grade": "2", "topo_ref": "NW", "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "2", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "From Peg Col this route is harder and much longer than the South Ridge, involving a steep\r\nscramble from the col with some route finding. The ridge eases off before the summit." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Dave Hall, Thomas (Harry) Scott, Keith Russell, Melville (Jim) Glasgow (descended), January" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/canterbury/arrowsmith-range/the-marquee/south-ridge", "name": "South Ridge", "grade": "1", "topo_ref": "SR", "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "1", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "A slog along the ridge, encountering a false summit before the top." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "William McBeth, Rex Booth, Walter Baker, Charles Hilgendorf, Roy Twyneham, Desmond" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/canterbury/arrowsmith-range/the-marquee/north-west-ridge-via-washbourne-ck", "name": "North West Ridge, via Washbourne Ck.", "grade": "1", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "1", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "Reach the ridge south-east of Pt 2347 metres and follow it to the summit. The ridge can also be\r\nreached via a small glacier east of Peg Col." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Melville (Jim) Glasgow, Keith Russell, Thomas (Harry) Scott, January 1950" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/canterbury/arrowsmith-range/marquee/west-face", "name": "West Face", "grade": "2", "topo_ref": null, "image": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/routes/Marquee%20WF.png?itok=jrRb9sso", "images": [ { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/routes/Marquee%20WF.png?itok=jrRb9sso", "height": "224", "width": "325" }, { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/routes/P8151979.JPG?itok=hka4Xg3V", "height": "244", "width": "325" } ], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": "2", "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "The west face can provide much quicker access to the summit than the long south ridge. Snow slopes (up to 45 - 50\u00b0) up a broad couloir lead to the south ridge 200m south of the summit. Watch for rockfall, particularly out of a gully to climbers right near the bottom of the face." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "FA unknown. Description as climbed by Mary DeRoy and Tom Garden, August 2020." } ], "places": [], "image": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/wide/public/image/Marquee.png?itok=_9-XmXow", "images": [ { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/wide/public/image/Marquee.png?itok=_9-XmXow", "height": "619", "width": "900" } ] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aspiring/haast-range/skyscraper": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aspiring/haast-range/skyscraper", "name": "Skyscraper", "altitude": "2347m", "access": null, "description": "tba", "latlng": [ "-44.345157", "168.719261" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aspiring/haast-range/skyscraper/west-face", "name": "West Face", "grade": "III,3", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": "III", "mtcook": "3", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "From the hut traverse the Iso and Dipso Glaciers at about the same level as the Colin Todd Hut, until the north end of the Skyscraper massif is reached. The route is up a poorly defined buttress on the face, about 200m west of the Skyscraper-Mainroyal Col, slightly east of a short snow tongue. The buttress leads to the summit ridge a short distance south of the peak, which is then reached along easy rock and snow.\r\n\r\nThe face takes two to three hours and is a sustained rock climb. From the hut to the summit requires about six hours." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Ash Cunningham, Graham McCallum, January 1951" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aspiring/haast-range/skyscraper/east-face", "name": "East Face", "grade": "III,2+", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": "III", "mtcook": "2+", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "Follow route to the summit ridge of Stargazer and then traverse south to the high col between the two peaks. A steep and rotten but not difficult rock wall leads to the summit, about six hours out from Colin Todd Hut." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": null } ], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/canterbury/arrowsmith-range/pt-2347": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/canterbury/arrowsmith-range/pt-2347", "name": "Pt 2347", "altitude": "2347m", "access": null, "description": "An outlier to Marquee.", "latlng": null, "routes": [], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/main-divide-of-the-southern-alps/mt-petermann": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/main-divide-of-the-southern-alps/mt-petermann", "name": "Mt Petermann", "altitude": "2346m", "access": null, "description": "tba", "latlng": [ "-43.42200627", "170.56703568" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/main-divide-of-the-southern-alps/mt-petermann/sealy-pass", "name": "From Sealy Pass", "grade": null, "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "From Sealy Pass head along the Main Divide on rock and gain snow slopes west of the summit. Alternatively, cross Sealy Pass to snow slopes on the western side of the peak." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "T A Fletcher, A Sutton-Turner, Jack Lippe, Jan 1922" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/main-divide-of-the-southern-alps/mt-petermann/upper-scone-creek", "name": "From upper Scone Creek", "grade": null, "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "From the top of the lake in the head of the Scone, follow a snow gully up heading east. Near the summit gain a snow ridge and continue south east." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": null }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/main-divide-of-the-southern-alps/mt-petermann/stewart-saddle", "name": "From Stewart Saddle", "grade": null, "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "From Stewart Saddle, crevassed slopes lead to a rock climb." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Derek Boddy, Neville Cooper, and AM Evans, 31st Dec 1957." } ], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/canterbury-westland-alps/adams-range/mt-hulka": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/canterbury-westland-alps/adams-range/mt-hulka", "name": "Mt Hulka", "altitude": "2346m", "access": null, "description": "The west ridge remains unclimbed. It begins as a schist slab buttress from the Barlow.", "latlng": [ "-43.303882", "170.643082" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/westland/adams-range/mt-hulka/iceland-col", "name": "From Iceland Col", "grade": "1+", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "1+", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "A straight forward snow ridge with a steep last short climb on sound rock to the summit." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "AF Pearson, JD Pascoe, HA McDowall, Sweeney, 28th December 1935" } ], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/canterbury/armoury-range/pistol-pk": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/canterbury/armoury-range/pistol-pk", "name": "Pistol Pk", "altitude": "2345m", "access": null, "description": "Usually climbed as part of a traverse to Bardolph Peak from Gladiator Col.", "latlng": [ "-43.336041", "170.848217" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/canterbury/armoury-range/pistol-pk/north-west-ridge", "name": "North West Ridge", "grade": "2", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "2", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "From the head of McCoy Stream follow good rock to the top." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "H W (Sandy) Cormack, Lloyd Wilson, R E (Gran) Clark, December 1933" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/canterbury/armoury-range/pistol-pk/south-ridge", "name": "South Ridge", "grade": "2-", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "2-", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "The short South Ridge was completed as part of a traverse from Nym to Pistol peaks via\r\nBardolph." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Ed Cotter, Robin Johnson, December 1946" } ], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/canterbury/two-thumb-range/pt-2345": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/canterbury/two-thumb-range/pt-2345", "name": "Pt 2345", "altitude": "2345m", "access": null, "description": "South of Split Peaks.", "latlng": [ "-43.604883", "170.737581" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/canterbury/two-thumb-range/pt-2345/split-peak-ridge", "name": "From Split Peak ridge", "grade": "2-", "topo_ref": "SPR", "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "2-", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "From the col on the ridge to the north, make a short steep scramble on the east side of the ridge\r\nto the summit" } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": null } ], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki/burnett-mountains/brass-pk": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki/burnett-mountains/brass-pk", "name": "Brass Pk", "altitude": "2343m", "access": null, "description": "tba", "latlng": [ "-43.746866", "170.227178" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki/burnett-mountains/brass-peak/unnamed", "name": "Unnamed", "grade": null, "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "From the head of Gorilla Stream traverse the north ridge. Alternatively, climb from Chop Creek." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Peter Graham, Jack Lippe, Dorothy Theomin, Apr 1916" } ], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/c58dhau-landsborough/hooker-range/mt-jack": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/c58dhau-landsborough/hooker-range/mt-jack", "name": "Mt Jack", "altitude": "2343m", "access": null, "description": null, "latlng": [ "-43.81420943918", "169.65460576827" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/westland/hooker-range/mt-jack-0/north-west-ridge", "name": "North West Ridge", "grade": "2,III", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": "0m", "pitches": [ { "alpine": "2", "commitment": "III", "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": null } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": "0", "natural_pro": false, "description": "From the bushline in Jack Creek, gain the ridge leading to the Jack Glacier and proceed to the summit.", "ascent": "Bruce Popplewell, Bill Stephenson, January 1965" } ], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aspiring/humboldt-mountains/mt-bonpland": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aspiring/humboldt-mountains/mt-bonpland", "name": "Mt Bonpland", "altitude": "2343m", "access": null, "description": "The first recorded ascent was by W.J.P Hodgkins and E. Bryant in 1894.", "latlng": [ "-44.82697596", "168.27857545" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aspiring/humboldt-mountains/mt-bonpland/east-face", "name": "East Face", "grade": "2,II", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": "0m", "pitches": [ { "alpine": "2", "commitment": "II", "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": null } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": "0", "natural_pro": false, "description": "From Kinloch, ascend to the bush line before crossing the northeast slope of Bold Peak to gain the notch in the ridge between Bold Peak and Bonpland. Easy snow slopes on the east side lead to a short scramble of good rock before final snow slopes.", "ascent": null }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aspiring/humboldt-mountains/mt-bonpland/west-ridge", "name": "West Ridge", "grade": "1,I", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": "0m", "pitches": [ { "alpine": "1", "commitment": "I", "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": null } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": "0", "natural_pro": false, "description": "From Kay Creek climb high on the west ridge then sidle around on to the north face and scramble to the summit.", "ascent": null }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aspiring/humboldt-mountains/mt-bonpland/east-face-north-ridge", "name": "East Face\u2013North Ridge", "grade": "1,I", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": "0m", "pitches": [ { "alpine": "1", "commitment": "I", "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": null } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": "0", "natural_pro": false, "description": "Follow the Glacier Burn track until snow fields under East Face are reached. Climb the prominent couloir leading to the north ridge of Bonpland.", "ascent": null }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aspiring/humboldt-mountains/mt-bonpland/east-face-direct", "name": "East Face Direct", "grade": "2,I", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": "0m", "pitches": [ { "alpine": "2", "commitment": "I", "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": null } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": "0", "natural_pro": false, "description": "Climb the smaller couloir gaining access to the south ridge or go directly up East Face from Bryant Glacier/ snowfield.", "ascent": null } ], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki-tai-poutini/maximilian-range/roderick-pk": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki-tai-poutini/maximilian-range/roderick-pk", "name": "Roderick Pk", "altitude": "2343m", "access": null, "description": "Named after Rod Syme by the first ascent party. There is no record of an ascent from the Whymper.", "latlng": [ "-43.465628", "170.341473" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki-tai-poutini/maximilian-range/roderick-pk/burton-glacier", "name": "From Burton Glacier", "grade": null, "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "From the foot of the icefall in the Burton Glacier, head up a steep couloir offering direct access\r\nto the Maximilian Range just south of Roderick." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "D A Carty, L J Dumbleton, J D Willis, D J Stanton, 29 December 1937" } ], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/canterbury-westland-alps/tensing-ridge/pt-2314": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/canterbury-westland-alps/tensing-ridge/pt-2314", "name": "Pt 2314", "altitude": "2341m", "access": null, "description": null, "latlng": [ "-43.301196", "170.72402" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/canterbury-westland-alps/tensing-ridge/pt-2314/satans-saddle", "name": "From Satans Saddle", "grade": "1", "topo_ref": "SS", "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "1", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "From Satans Saddle, ascend crevassed snowslopes." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "George H Thompson, Matt Fowlds, Pat Campbell, Keith Williamson, G Hawkins, K Hansard, 1st Jan 1954" } ], "places": [], "image": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/wide/public/image/P213_0.png?itok=FQJxx49F", "images": [ { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/wide/public/image/P213_0.png?itok=FQJxx49F", "height": "732", "width": "900" } ] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aspiring/main-divide/aeroplane-pk": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aspiring/main-divide/aeroplane-pk", "name": "Aeroplane Pk", "altitude": "2340m", "access": null, "description": "This name, along with Parachute Pass, commemorates an early and ill-fated experiment in the air dropping of supplies to a mountaineering party in the Kitchener Cirque in 1933. The peak was first climbed by Graham Bishop and Roger Barrowclough on December 27, 1961, from a camp on Moncrieff Col.", "latlng": [ "-42.93003329", "171.8869143" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aspiring/main-divide/aeroplane-pk/south-buttress", "name": "South Buttress", "grade": "III,2+", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": "0m", "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": "III", "mtcook": "2+", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "" } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": "0", "natural_pro": false, "description": "The South Buttress is reached by traversing across from the Moncrieff Col route and then following directly up snow and shattered rock just west of the crest of the middle rib.", "ascent": "Bruce Robertson, Laurie Kennedy, January 1975" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aspiring/main-divide/aeroplane-pk/north-face", "name": "North Face", "grade": "II,2", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": "0m", "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": "II", "mtcook": "2", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": null } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": "0", "natural_pro": false, "description": "The North Face is a short rock climb from the Volta N\u00e9v\u00e9. The hardest pitches occur on sound rock leading out of the windscoop surrounding the peak and into the east side of a shallow gully. After 30\u201350m cross to the west side of this gully and climb out to the ridge, where easy loose rock leads to the summit. Time from the n\u00e9v\u00e9 to the summit is 1\u20132 hours.", "ascent": "Graham Bishop, Roger Barrowclough, December 1961" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aspiring/main-divide/aeroplane-pk/north-east-ridge", "name": "North East Ridge", "grade": "II,2", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": "0m", "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": "II", "mtcook": "2", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": null } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": "0", "natural_pro": false, "description": "The North East Ridge is a straightforward rock climb taking about one hour from the n\u00e9v\u00e9.", "ascent": "Laurie Kennedy, Dave Inne, February 1969" } ], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki/main-divide/mt-montgomerie": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki/main-divide/mt-montgomerie", "name": "Mt Montgomerie", "altitude": "2340m", "access": null, "description": null, "latlng": [ "-43.75698613", "169.9822473" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki/main-divide/mt-montgomerie/scissors", "name": "Via Scissors", "grade": "1", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "1", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "From the top of Scissors traverse to Hardies Gut and then continue up to Mt Montgomery." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Otto Frind, Conrad Kain, February 1914" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki/main-divide/mt-montgomerie/divide-ridge", "name": "Divide Ridge", "grade": "1", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "1", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": null } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": "Montgomery is an easy scramble along the ridge from either Scissors or Fyfe\nPass.", "ascent": "Tom Fyfe, George Graham, February 1894" } ], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/westland/bloomfield-range/park-dome": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/westland/bloomfield-range/park-dome", "name": "Park Dome", "altitude": "2340m", "access": null, "description": "na", "latlng": [ "-43.15960241", "170.92899032" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/westland/bloomfield-range/park-dome/north-west-ridge", "name": "North West Ridge", "grade": "1", "topo_ref": "NWR", "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "1", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "From near the Stag\u2013Reid Creek forks (J34 380835 / BW18 280 219) follow a narrow rib up onto\r\na tussock plateau where there is a tarn and campsites at the 1200-metre contour. Continue up\r\nthe spur, deviating south at 1700 metres across a creek to a more open spur that rejoins the\r\noriginal spur further up. Continue over Pt 2186 metres and up to the summit. The view into the\r\nWilkinson and up to Mt Evans is spectacular." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Phil Willis, Austen A Deans, 14 March 1948" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/westland/bloomfield-range/park-dome/ivory-lake-hut", "name": "From Ivory Lake Hut", "grade": "1", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "1", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "Descend from the hut to the forks at J34 404835 / BW18 304 219, cross Stag Creek and climb out\r\nonto the ridge to the south. Follow this up to a basin at about the 1800-metre contour, then\r\nhead south-east up the snow basin to the summit. Glacial recession means some have found it\r\nnecessary, due to crevasses, to sidle to the North West Ridge from just below the 1800-metre\r\ncontour, reaching the ridge itself at about 2060 metres and then climbing over Pt 2186 metres\r\nto the summit." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": null }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/westland/bloomfield-range/park-dome/east-ridge", "name": "East Ridge", "grade": "2", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "2", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "From Seddon Creek gain the East Ridge and follow snowfields and rock. The southern slopes of\r\nPark Dome have extensive crevassed snowfields with some significant buttresses of reasonablelooking\r\nrock." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Norman Dowling, Stan E Davis, J Derrick Freeman (from Seddon Creek in the Wilkinson Valley), December 1937" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/westland/bloomfield-range/park-dome/south-ridge", "name": "South Ridge", "grade": "1+", "topo_ref": "SR", "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "1+", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "Gain Pt 1934 metres on the Bloomfield Range from either Reid Creek or the County, then a\r\ncouloir on the County side leads eventually to Pt 2196 metres. The ridge is narrow to Pt 2216\r\nmetres, then sidle the head of the Reid Creek snow basin to overlook the McKenzie Glacier.\r\nThis point can also be reached by scrambling up loose rock from McKenzie Col. Accessing\r\nMcKenzie Col from either the County or the Wilkinson can be easy enough in spring snow, but\r\nboth sides are subject to stone fall and schrunds can cut access from the Wilkinson.\r\nThe South Ridge itself presents few problems, with a chimney providing the solution to a last\r\nline of minor bluffs." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Mike Andrews, Steve Millar and two others, November 1995" } ], "places": [], "image": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/wide/public/image/ParkD.png?itok=lmClwAGy", "images": [ { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/wide/public/image/ParkD.png?itok=lmClwAGy", "height": "630", "width": "900" } ] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/nelson-lakes/franklin-ridge/mt-franklin": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/nelson-lakes/franklin-ridge/mt-franklin", "name": "Mt Franklin", "altitude": "2340m", "access": null, "description": "Highest mountain in Nelson Lakes National Park. First climbed by a Tararua Tramping Club party led by Bill Bridge in February 1947.", "latlng": [ "-42.05174674", "172.68716754" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/nelson-lakes/franklin-ridge/mt-franklin/east-sabine-route", "name": "East Sabine Route", "grade": "1", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": "1", "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "From a tussock flat due east of the summit, follow a stream to scrub and steep tussock. Negotiable bluffs lead to a high scree terrace. Climb around the foot of the north-east buttress and up steep scree through bluffs just north of the summit." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": null }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/nelson-lakes/franklin-ridge/mt-franklin/south-west-ridge", "name": "South West Ridge", "grade": "2", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": "2", "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "From the scree terrace described in route 6.10, sidle south around the south-east buttress to steep scree under a high saddle between Franklin and Pk 2291m. From the saddle, pleasant rock scrambling gains the southern shoulder. The final ridge is broad and easy." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": null }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/nelson-lakes/franklin-ridge/mt-franklin/sabine-forks-route", "name": "Sabine Forks Route", "grade": "3", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": "3", "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "Half an hour above Sabine Forks, climb a scree fan from the West Sabine on to Franklin Ridge. A long and arduous route follows the range, turning outlier peaks on the eastern side. The final climb to the summit follows the upper part of East Sabine Route." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": null }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/nelson-lakes/franklin-ridge/mt-franklin/west-sabine-route", "name": "West Sabine Route", "grade": "1", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": "1", "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "From the outlet of Blue Lake, climb through open forest to the bushline, then follow it and sidle up across tussock slopes into a basin in a major side stream that falls west from Franklin. Climb scree to the head of the stream, where scree gives a route on the west face up loose rock and snow to either the high saddle between Pk 2191m and Franklin or its southern shoulder. A good descent route." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": null }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/nelson-lakes/franklin-ridge/mt-franklin/moraine-wall-route", "name": "Moraine Wall Route", "grade": "2", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": "2", "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "From Blue lake Hut, climb the North West Ridge route on Pk 2291m. Traverse that peak on moderate rock, or sidle the slopes on its north-west flank into the high saddle between Pk 2291m and Franklin. Pleasant rock scrambling gains the southern shoulder." } ], "quality": 1, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": null } ], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki/main-divide/scissors-pk": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki/main-divide/scissors-pk", "name": "Scissors Pk", "altitude": "2339m", "access": null, "description": "Above Barron Saddle", "latlng": [ "-43.75958569", "169.9853623" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki/main-divide/scissors-pk/crew-cut", "name": "Crew Cut", "grade": "4+", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "4+", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "North East Face. About the centre of the wall between Scissors and Mt Montgomery there is a broad gully that forms ice in the cooler months. A steep headwall caps the gully and is bypassed on the right, then straight up slopes to ridge." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Andy MacFarlane, Bill McLeod, September 1993" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki/main-divide/scissors-pk/direct-mueller-glacier", "name": "Direct from the Mueller Glacier", "grade": "2", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "2", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "Ascend sound rock which gradually eases back." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Faye Kerr, M Clarborough, early 1970s" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki/main-divide/scissors-pk/fyfe-pass", "name": "From Fyfe Pass", "grade": "1", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "1", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "An easy scramble. It is possible to ascend up under Mt Montgomery from the upper Mueller Glacier and so onto Scissors." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Tom Fyfe, George Graham, February 1894" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki/main-divide/scissors-pk/west-face", "name": "West Face", "grade": "2", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "2", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": null } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": "The options for entry and exit from the Landsborough vary a lot with the\nconditions, but the slabs on the south western side of Scissors generally\nprovide the best exit and entry from the upper Landsborough to the Mueller\nGlacier. The route is up rock slabs or snow to a saddle underneath Scissors.\nAn easy sidle leads from the saddle toward Barron Saddle Hut and the upper\nMueller Glacier.", "ascent": "Otto Frind, Conrad Kain, February 1914" } ], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/mt-alta": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/mt-alta", "name": "Mt Alta", "altitude": "2339m", "access": null, "description": null, "latlng": [ "-44.50271298", "168.97203146" ], "routes": [], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/nelson-lakes/travers-range/mt-travers": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/nelson-lakes/travers-range/mt-travers", "name": "Mt Travers", "altitude": "2338m", "access": null, "description": "The highest point on the Travers Range, with routes accessible from either the upper Travers Valley or Summit Creek.", "latlng": [ "-42.01315834", "172.73565609" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/nelson-lakes/travers-range/mt-travers/north-east-ridge", "name": "North East Ridge", "grade": "2", "topo_ref": "A", "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "2", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "Gain the ridge from the junction of the creek with the Travers River, or more easily from Summit Creek via scree or snow slopes, left of a buttress. The ridge gains height gradually in a series of steps, then becomes narrow and broken. Eventually the upper basin in Summit Creek route is reached. Do not traverse onto the steep and loose east face." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": null }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/nelson-lakes/travers-range/mt-travers/summit-creek-routes", "name": "Summit Creek Routes", "grade": "1", "topo_ref": "B & D", "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "1", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "A relatively easy summer route. From the Travers valley, follow the true left bank of Summit Creek into a tussock basin (small campsites here). Climb a wide gully between the north-east ridge and north buttress over tussock, scree and easy slabs. From an upper basin which usually holds snow, angle south-west to the summit ridge and the final climb to the summit. Alternatively, climb scree west of the north buttress till below the peak, then easy loose rock to the summit ridge." } ], "quality": 1, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "G E Mabin, L J Dumbleton, October 1933" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/nelson-lakes/travers-range/mt-travers/north-buttress", "name": "North Buttress", "grade": "2+", "topo_ref": "C", "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "2+", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "A climb recommended for experienced climbers only. Follow Summit Creek route to scree 200m above the toe of the buttress to a narrow couloir rising steeply from scree to crags above. A four metre step near the bottom requires friction holds. Above a ledge the couloir is walled by loose rock. Once on the buttress follow the jagged ridge around the upper basin rim to the summit.\r\nNote: Grade is unconfirmed." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": null }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/nelson-lakes/travers-range/mt-travers/south-ridge", "name": "South Ridge", "grade": "3", "topo_ref": "E", "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "3", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "The ridge begins from Travers Saddle. Initially climb rotten rock to a deep notch. Climb steep rock via a crack (2 pitches) angling on to the Sabine side - a rope will be needed. Solid slabs then give good climbing to the summit. An excellent summer route." } ], "quality": 1, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "D W Gobey, I Stewart, K Rigby, April 1968" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/nelson-lakes/travers-range/mt-travers/south-face-0", "name": "South Face", "grade": "3", "topo_ref": null, "image": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/route/Travers.JPG?itok=yb19Md4g", "images": [ { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/route/Travers.JPG?itok=yb19Md4g", "height": "325", "width": "300" } ], "length": "300m", "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "3", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": "300m", "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "Climb the lower snowfield in the centre of the face, then angle up right close beside the buttress below and right of the upper snowfield. Five 60m pitches to reach the South East Ridge just below the crux of that route." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Mike Peat June or July 1989 (solo)" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/nelson-lakes/travers-range/mt-travers/east-and-south-east-ridges", "name": "East and South East Ridges", "grade": "3+", "topo_ref": "F", "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "3+", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "These ribs separate the east, south and south-east faces of Travers. The principal difficulty is a rock step near the top, above where the ribs join. Climb it direct or turn it via a steep ramp. Once on the south ridge easy slabs lead to the summit." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": null }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/nelson-lakes/travers-range/mt-travers/east-face", "name": "East Face", "grade": "2", "topo_ref": "G", "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "2", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "This face of steep loose rock has been ascended, but is not recommended as a descent route. Note: Grade is unconfirmed." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": null }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/nelson-lakes/travers-range/mt-travers/north-east-ridge-from-upper-travers-hut", "name": "North East Ridge from Upper Travers Hut", "grade": "2", "topo_ref": "H", "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "2", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "Cross the river and ascend the scree opposite the hut. Cross a broad south-east falling tussock spur, below a buttress, and sidle into the next basin to the north-east. From the head of this basin follow ramps and ledges onto the ridge, then North East Ridge route to the summit. This is a good descent route." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": null } ], "places": [], "image": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/wide/public/image/Screen%20shot%202011-06-29%20at%206.01.00%20PM_0.jpg?itok=CB2qfABJ", "images": [ { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/wide/public/image/Screen%20shot%202011-06-29%20at%206.01.00%20PM_0.jpg?itok=CB2qfABJ", "height": "588", "width": "743" }, { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/image/Screen%20shot%202011-06-29%20at%206.01.23%20PM.jpg?itok=g-Plwn97", "height": "241", "width": "325" } ] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki/kirikirikatata-mt-cook-range/turner-pk": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki/kirikirikatata-mt-cook-range/turner-pk", "name": "Turner Pk", "altitude": "2338m", "access": null, "description": "Proud Peak is essentially an outlier of Turner Peak and it seems odd that they are named separately. Here, and in the Aoraki Tai Poutini guide (2018) they are treated as one peak.", "latlng": [ "-43.63980217", "170.14732361" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki/kirikirikatata-mt-cook-range/turner-pk/north-ridge", "name": "North Ridge", "grade": "2,II", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": "2", "commitment": "II", "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": null } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": "Straightforward rock scrambling and snow slopes. Climbing on the northwest face is also possible.", "ascent": "Darby Thomson, Samuel Turner, February 1913" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki/kirikirikatata-mt-cook-range/turner-pk/west-ridge", "name": "West Ridge", "grade": "3,II", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": "3", "commitment": "II", "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": null } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": "An enjoyable rock climb from the scree slope above the Hooker Glacier. The upper section of the ridge can also be accessed from the lower Mona Glacier.", "ascent": "G Carr, K E Johnson, January 1965" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki/kirikirikatata-mt-cook-range/turner-pk/south-face", "name": "South Face", "grade": "4,II,WI2", "topo_ref": null, "image": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/route/turner%20south%20face.jpg?itok=B9nhkpvF", "images": [ { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/route/turner%20south%20face.jpg?itok=B9nhkpvF", "height": "244", "width": "325" } ], "length": "250m", "pitches": [ { "alpine": "4", "commitment": "II", "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": "WI2", "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": null } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": "Several routes about 250m long, which are easily accessible from Ball Pass. Most routes involve a combination of steep snow and up to WI2+ ice. Harder variants with WI3+ steps at the start are possible. Generally steep at first then onto 60 degree neve ramps with some small steps, 70-80 degrees max. Climb when conditions are fat, rock gear would be nix. Named N\u00e9v\u00e9 N\u00e9v\u00e9 Land by Jaz Morris in 2013 on what he thought was the first ascent.", "ascent": "Wolfgang Maier, clients, 2007" } ], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aspiring/main-divide/mt-enderby": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aspiring/main-divide/mt-enderby", "name": "Mt Enderby", "altitude": "2338m", "access": null, "description": null, "latlng": [ "-44.03477244", "169.5719084" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aspiring/main-divide/mt-enderby/west-middle-east-peaks", "name": "West, Middle, East Peaks", "grade": "2", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": "0m", "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "2", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": null } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": "0", "natural_pro": false, "description": "First ascended directly from Ferguson Creek over the snowslopes to the\nsummit.", "ascent": "Graham Riley, P C S Unwin, J D Willis, December 1934" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/%C5%8Dhau-landsborough/main-divide/mt-enderby/near-cheap-creek", "name": "Near Cheap Creek", "grade": null, "topo_ref": null, "image": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/route/enderby.jpg?itok=45uwQ3Ef", "images": [ { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/route/enderby.jpg?itok=45uwQ3Ef", "height": "195", "width": "325" } ], "length": null, "pitches": [], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": "Access the upper slopes via slopes just west of Cheap Creek. When near the\nsummit pyramid, ascend snowfield then swing right to reach east ridge which\nis followed to the summit via steepish snow. Also found crampon in bush.", "ascent": "Ross, Pip, James Barringer December 2007" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/%C5%8Dhau-landsborough/main-divide/mt-enderby/west-divide-ridge", "name": "West (Divide) Ridge", "grade": "3-", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "3-", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": null } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": "From the toe of the ridge, gain height on moderate ground then traverse out\nto the left. Climb through a steep step of well featured schist (grade 14),\nthen follow weaknesses to the summit.", "ascent": "Nina Dickerhof, Neil Sloan and James Thornton, April 2015" } ], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aspiring/snowdrift-range/ferrier-pk": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aspiring/snowdrift-range/ferrier-pk", "name": "Ferrier Pk", "altitude": "2337m", "access": null, "description": null, "latlng": [ "-44.49172258", "168.4679403" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aspiring/snowdrift-range/ferrier-pk/cattle-flat", "name": "From Cattle Flat", "grade": null, "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "From the bottom end of Cattle Flat a trail leads to bush line and through scrub to the true left of the stream draining O\u2019Leary Pass from where long grassy slopes provide gentle access to the snow. Several rock gendarmes are then negotiated to gain the rock ridge leading to snow slopes at the foot of the rock peak." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": null } ], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/canterbury-westland-alps/main-divide/mt-edison": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/canterbury-westland-alps/main-divide/mt-edison", "name": "Mt Edison", "altitude": "2337m", "access": null, "description": null, "latlng": [ "-43.37110325", "170.64530592" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/canterbury-westland-alps/main-divide/mt-edison/south-east-ridge", "name": "South East Ridge", "grade": "3-", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "3-", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "From the Havelock Valley gain the Main Divide south of Rankin Peak, or by following the\r\nNorth East Ridge route on Rankin Peak. Traverse Rankin Peak and follow the Main Divide to\r\nthe summit. The final 50 metres is on steep, tricky rock." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Cuthbert Denham, Ernie Rich, Tom Beckett, March 1937" } ], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/otago/barrier-range/mt-st-mary": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/otago/barrier-range/mt-st-mary", "name": "Mt St Mary", "altitude": "2337m", "access": null, "description": "TBA", "latlng": [ "-44.25789015", "169.65429158" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/otago/barrier-range/mt-st-mary/west-face", "name": "West Face", "grade": "1", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "1", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": null } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": "Beginning 0.5 km downstream from the Hodgkinson Creek climb the tussock\nslopes to reach 2036m. Follow the ridge to the east and south to reach the\nsummit, the highest point in the Barrier Range. Another approach is to begin at 786m, follow easy slopes up, crossing the deep slit where possible (look for animal trail), to reach the large tarn south west of the summit. Continue up the basin behind the tarn, followed by an easy scramble to the summit.", "ascent": "Lindsay Crozier, Jim Crozier, Bruce Gillies, Selwyn Grave, M.Pinder, January 1936" } ], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/canterbury/two-thumb-range/the-commander": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/canterbury/two-thumb-range/the-commander", "name": "The Commander", "altitude": "2337m", "access": null, "description": "Named by the first ascentionists for its commanding position at the head of the Godley Valley.", "latlng": [ "-43.45073808", "170.60325623" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/canterbury/two-thumb-range/the-commander/north-east-ridge", "name": "North East Ridge", "grade": "2", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "2", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "Follow the rock ridge from Terra Nova Pass, negotiating a small bluff and then a gendarme. The\r\nrock is loose in places." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Edgar Williams, A J Scott, R H Booth, Dec 1931" } ], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/canterbury-westland-alps/main-divide/sword-pk": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/canterbury-westland-alps/main-divide/sword-pk", "name": "Sword Pk", "altitude": "2336m", "access": null, "description": "Sword Peak is prominent when seen from near McDonald / Curtis Memorial Hut and gives good views from its summit.", "latlng": [ "-43.386649", "170.657415" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/canterbury-westland-alps/main-divide/sword-pk/south-east-ridge", "name": "South East Ridge", "grade": "2", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "2", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "Climb the Scabbard Glacier to the col between Sword and Milne Peaks and follow the South\r\nEast Ridge to the top. The last 100 metres presents the best climbing.\r\n The South East Ridge has also been approached from the Havelock River, beginning 600\r\nmetres up from Veil Bivouac. Steep scrub blends into good tussock benches on a spur south-east\r\nof the marked 40-metre waterfall, leading to the Milne\u2013Sword ridge" } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Stan Barnett, Bruce Turner, Doug Apperley, December 1933" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/canterbury-westland-alps/main-divide/sword-pk/north-ridge", "name": "North Ridge", "grade": "2", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "2", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "From the upper Havelock River follow a tussock and rock ridge leading to the snow basin north\r\nof Sword Peak and climb this to the Main Divide. Traverse a bump at the foot of the North\r\nRidge and the steep but broken rock slabs. Continue up, passing an ice bulge on the west and\r\nfollow the summit ridge along snow." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Snow Williams, John Harrison, Tommy Lawton, P Beveridge, December 1952" } ], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/canterbury-westland-alps/lord-range/dan-pk": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/canterbury-westland-alps/lord-range/dan-pk", "name": "Dan Pk", "altitude": "2335m", "access": null, "description": "Lord Range", "latlng": [ "-43.24069643", "170.8350954" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/canterbury-westland-alps/lord-range/dan-pk/camp-saddle", "name": "From Camp Saddle", "grade": "2+", "topo_ref": "CS", "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "2+", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "At Camp Saddle climb the 20m bluff directly above by gaining access immediately left of a chute, climbing good ledges, then traversing left to the corner of the bluff. Move directly up an exposed solid rock column overlooking the Wilberg Camp Saddle slopes. Ascend snowslopes to beneath the small glacier here, traverse left and ascend steeper slopes to the snowfield above. Another steepish snowslope leads to a narrow saddle between the false and main peak. About 100m remains of easy rock ridge to the summit." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "first ascent feb/mar 1934 by WH and RJ Scott, from a camp on the Clarke Glacier, via Wilberg Glacier and Camp Saddle" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/canterbury-westland-alps/lord-range/dan-pk/lord-range-traverse", "name": "Lord Range Traverse", "grade": "3+,III", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": "0m", "pitches": [ { "alpine": "3+", "commitment": "III", "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": null } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": "0", "natural_pro": false, "description": "From a camp near pk 1994, traverse NE on glaciers, gaining the ridge at the pk 2140 -2275 col. Generally follow the ridge on loose rock from here to Dan Peak. Mainly scrambling with some hard scrambling/low-grade rockclimbing. The cruxes are the looseness of the rock, and an abseil (length not remembered - a 60m rope was carried) into the notch / col either before 2293 or Dan Peak. Descend via Camp saddle route, follow downvalley Westward towards Poker Gully, but then take the couloir up towards pt 1983, and slowly back to camp on broken schist boulders.\nWater is scarce and travel is slow in the rocky Southern parts of the range - shattered schist boulderfields and rifts predominate. A full traverse of the range, carrying on Northwards of Dan Peak, remains undone, but the rock quality is offputting. A winter traverse, and/or traversing E-W might be considered.", "ascent": "Ruari Macfarlane, April 2022" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/canterbury-westland-alps/lord-range/dan-pk/east-ridge", "name": "East Ridge", "grade": "2+", "topo_ref": "ER", "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "2+", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "A variation from the upper snowfield east of Dan Peak itself is the steep rocky East Ridge on the crest of the Lord Range itself. However, the rock is 'deteriorated'. This was used as a descent route back to the upper snowfield by" } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Jack Pattle and Trevor W James, 28th Feb 1953." } ], "places": [], "image": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/wide/public/image/Dan%20Pk.png?itok=Y-Fc85Kz", "images": [ { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/wide/public/image/Dan%20Pk.png?itok=Y-Fc85Kz", "height": "718", "width": "900" } ] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/%C5%8Dhau-landsborough/main-divide/mt-trent": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/%C5%8Dhau-landsborough/main-divide/mt-trent", "name": "Mt Trent", "altitude": "2335m", "access": null, "description": "Mt Trent was the scene of one of New Zealand's worst alpine accidents in 1937 when a roped party of three climbing on the south face were dislodged by a falling stone and fell to their deaths. The accident and the three climbers, G M Edwards, S D Divers and T R B Stevenson, are commemorated by the naming of Memorial Glacier and a memorial at Monument Hut in the lower Hopkins Valley.", "latlng": [ "-43.9325", "169.7453" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/%C5%8Dhau-landsborough/main-divide/mt-trent/east-ridge", "name": "East Ridge", "grade": "2", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "2", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": null } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": "From Fraser Col, sidle past Mt Fraser to reach the East Ridge and move\ncarefully to the summit.", "ascent": "Fred Doidge, Keith Smith, Rod Williams, Des de Terte January 1949" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/%C5%8Dhau-landsborough/main-divide/mt-trent/south-face", "name": "South Face", "grade": "2", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "2", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": null } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": "From the upper North Huxley Valley cross the Memorial Glacier and angle up\nthe southern snowslopes to reach the ridge near the summit.", "ascent": "Alan Edwards, Gordon Edwards, Colin Grey, Frank Newmarch, George Palmer March 1937" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/%C5%8Dhau-landsborough/main-divide/mt-trent/north-west-ridge", "name": "North West Ridge", "grade": "2+", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": "Gain height initially on the western side of the ridge on easy ground, before getting onto the ridge proper around 2050m. Most difficulties are then turned on the east side, with the odd small step climbed direct. Things lay back higher up. A final short scramble then leads to the summit.", "ascent": "Nina Dickerhof, James Thornton, April 2022" } ], "places": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/%C5%8Dhau-landsborough/main-divide/mt-trent/north-ridge", "name": "North Ridge", "altitude": null, "access": null, "description": null, "latlng": null, "routes": [], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/%C5%8Dhau-landsborough/main-divide/mt-trent/north-ridge-0", "name": "North Ridge", "altitude": null, "access": null, "description": null, "latlng": null, "routes": [], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] } ], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki-tai-poutini/main-divide/mt-raureka": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki-tai-poutini/main-divide/mt-raureka", "name": "Mt Raureka", "altitude": "2333m", "access": null, "description": null, "latlng": [ "-43.63424", "170.09943" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki/main-divide/mt-raureka/main-divide", "name": "Main Divide", "grade": null, "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "Via the Divide ridges." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": null }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki-tai-poutini/main-divide/mt-raureka/hooker-glacier", "name": "From Hooker Glacier", "grade": "2", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": "0m", "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "2", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": null } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": "0", "natural_pro": false, "description": "Via a prominent ridge leading up from the Hooker Glacier.", "ascent": "Tom Fyfe, Conrad Kain, March 1914" } ], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/canterbury/mt-somers-range/mt-taylor": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/canterbury/mt-somers-range/mt-taylor", "name": "Mt Taylor", "altitude": "2333m", "access": null, "description": "Mount Somers Range", "latlng": [ "-43.5072471", "171.31913686" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/mt-taylor/from-woolshed-creek-hut", "name": "From Woolshed Creek Hut.", "grade": "1-", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "Park at Woolshed creek parking lot and head up to Woolshed Creek hut. From the hut gain the ridge on the climbers left and follow to Quaker Saddle, from the saddle continue along ridge to summit. Descend Taylors stream and move back up to Peache Saddle then follow Woolshed Creek back to the hut. An excellent one day hike for fitter party's.." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": null }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/mt-taylor/from-double-hut", "name": "From Double Hut", "grade": "1-", "topo_ref": null, "image": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/route/Mt%20Taylor%20track.jpg?itok=6GQSWDGQ", "images": [ { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/route/Mt%20Taylor%20track.jpg?itok=6GQSWDGQ", "height": "182", "width": "325" } ], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": null } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": "From the Lake Heron car park follow the Swin River track to Double Hut (about\n10kms). From Double Hut follow the South Branch of the Swin River to where\nthe obvious ridge meets the river. Continuing on up the right branch 50-100m\naffords easy access to the ridge. It's possible to take the scree slope down\nthe north side of the ridge and follow the branch back to the stream\njunction.", "ascent": null } ], "places": [], "image": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/wide/public/image/1-P8290001.JPG?itok=rc7OGNEG", "images": [ { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/wide/public/image/1-P8290001.JPG?itok=rc7OGNEG", "height": "540", "width": "900" } ] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki/navigator-range/mt-copland": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki/navigator-range/mt-copland", "name": "Mt Copland", "altitude": "2331m", "access": null, "description": "Navigator Range", "latlng": [ "-43.59796307", "170.02436054" ], "routes": [], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki/balfour-range/vanguard": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki/balfour-range/vanguard", "name": "Vanguard", "altitude": "2331m", "access": null, "description": "tba", "latlng": [ "-43.568843", "170.123398" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki/balfour-range/vanguard/balfour-glacier", "name": "From the Balfour Glacier", "grade": null, "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "D H Lewis, R D Dick, Jan 1938." } ], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/ark-west": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/ark-west", "name": "Ark West", "altitude": "2330m", "access": null, "description": null, "latlng": [ "-44.41896141", "168.35279817" ], "routes": [], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/canterbury/sherwood-range/fox-pk": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/canterbury/sherwood-range/fox-pk", "name": "Fox Pk", "altitude": "2330m", "access": null, "description": null, "latlng": [ "-43.83847642", "170.7825266" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/canterbury/sherwood-range/fox-pk/fox-peak-back-basins-ski-touring", "name": "FOX PEAK BACK BASINS Ski Touring", "grade": "2", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": "500m", "pitches": [ { "alpine": "2", "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": "500m", "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "Map J 37\r\n\t\t\t\r\nFox Peak has an excellent website at www.foxpeak.co.nz. Snow information is on https://www.snowhq.com/\r\nBefore going backcountry, approach the friendly ski patrol and ask about present backcountry snow conditions.\r\nThe Fox Peak rope-tow ski lifts take you up 500 vertical metres to 1840m (J37: 332044), the next 500 metres are up to you. Head straight up the ridge to Fox Peak itself (2330m) where you will find views that make the effort worthwhile.\r\nThe way down gives you two options, appropriately named North Basin and South Basin. North Basin is accessed directly off the summit. Ski down through the basin and traverse to skier\u2019s right at around 1450m to return to the ski lifts.\r\nSouth Basin may be accessed off the summit ridge directly, or drop off the actual summit into a SW-facing basin and traverse to a col at 2100m (J37: 316043) which then drops steeply into South Basin. Traverse to skier\u2019s left at around 1550m to return to the ski lifts." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": null } ], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/otago/huxley-range/college-pk": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/otago/huxley-range/college-pk", "name": "College Pk", "altitude": "2330m", "access": null, "description": "TBA", "latlng": [ "-44.0486", "169.6785" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/otago/huxley-range/college-pk/huxley-hunter-col", "name": "From Huxley-Hunter Col", "grade": "1", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "1", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": null } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": "Bob Cunningham, Peter Barker and John Chivers crossed the Huxley-Hunter\nsaddle in December 1958, climbed College Peak 2330m and found a note on top\nsaying it had been climbed by three Victoria College people in 1948.", "ascent": null }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/otago/huxley-range/college-pk/seeing-eye", "name": "Seeing Eye", "grade": "5-", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "5-", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": null } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": "This 500 m high west face route is accessed by crossing the Main Divide from\nthe South Huxley Valley, and descending into the upper Hunter Valley. Begin\nin centre of concave face. The crux wall is encountered at about one third\nheight. Above a corner system the route leads up the prow of the buttress,\nand goes all the way to the summit. Mainly grade 13-14, crux pitch about\ngrade 17.", "ascent": "Bill McLeod, February 1996" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/otago/huxley-range/college-pk/west-face", "name": "West Face", "grade": null, "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": "The west face has been climbed after access gained via the South Huxley\nValley.", "ascent": null } ], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/canterbury/two-thumb-range/split-pks": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/canterbury/two-thumb-range/split-pks", "name": "Split Pks", "altitude": "2330m", "access": "The cols north, south and between north and south Spilt Peaks can be reached via steep scree or snow from Black Birch Creek.", "description": "Split Peaks are two prominent peaks of approximately equal height forming a heart-shaped outline when seen from Two Thumb Stream. They form blocky buttresses and prominent ribs of variable to good rock, potentially producing routes up to 150 metres long. The easiest access is from adjacent cols,\nwhich lead to short scrambles of a few tens of metres of height gain. A traverse of the entire ridge from Tom Thumb Col to the col north of Mt Caton is yet to be completed and would involve negotiating a steep gendarme at the northern end and some short, steep faces. Split Peaks were first climbed by Bill Cullens, Stan Forbes and Frank Gillett in December 1934. The party had set out to climb The Thumbs but in the absence of any good maps or route descriptions they set off in error up Split Peaks. A view from high on the route revealed their mistake.", "latlng": [ "-43.60471669", "170.7376871" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/canterbury/two-thumb-range/split-pks/north-split-peak-north-ridge", "name": "North Split Peak, North Ridge", "grade": "2-", "topo_ref": "NR", "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "2-", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "From the broad, prominent scree slope that leads to the col on the northern side of the Split\r\nPeaks, traverse along a short ledge to a loose, rocky gully. Follow this gully to the summit." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": null }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/canterbury/two-thumb-range/split-pks/north-split-peak-south-ridge", "name": "North Split Peak, South Ridge", "grade": "2-", "topo_ref": "SR", "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "2-", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "Start by climbing the broad, prominent scree slope, aiming towards the col on the northern\r\nside of the Split Peaks. Well before the col, climb a steep, narrow, rocky gully that emerges from\r\nbetween the buttresses of the Split Peaks. After a short step, this gully leads to a narrow col\r\nbetween the Split Peaks. From here, clamber over steeply-stacked loose blocks to the summit." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": null }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/canterbury/two-thumb-range/split-pks/south-split-peak-north-ridge", "name": "South Split Peak, North Ridge", "grade": "2", "topo_ref": "NhR", "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "2", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "Gain the narrow col between the two Split Peaks (see South Ridge of North Pk, route above). Climb a short slab and\r\nloose rock to the summit." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": null }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/canterbury/two-thumb-range/split-pks/south-split-peak-south-ridge", "name": "South Split Peak, South Ridge", "grade": "2-", "topo_ref": "ShR", "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "2-", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "Climb a steepening gully immediately south of the peak, to a small col. Negotiate a short step\r\nbefore moving right and climbing loose rock and boulders to the summit." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": null } ], "places": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/canterbury/two-thumb-range/split-pks/pt-2343", "name": "Pt 2343", "altitude": "2343m", "access": null, "description": "This spot height forms the northern high point of the Split Peaks ridge.", "latlng": [ "-43.601714", "170.736809" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/canterbury/two-thumb-range/split-pks/pt-2343/north-ridge", "name": "North Ridge", "grade": "2", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "2", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "At the northern end of the ridge climb an argillite gully that narrows and steepens and reaches\nthe ridge on loose argillite immediately south of a prominent gendarme. Follow loose rock\nalong the narrow ridge to the summit." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": null }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/canterbury/two-thumb-range/split-pks/pt-2343/south-face", "name": "South Face", "grade": "2", "topo_ref": "SF", "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "2", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "Climb a gully immediately south of the summit and then the steep slab to the top." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": null } ], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] } ], "image": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/wide/public/image/split%20pk.png?itok=Pl2h3qHe", "images": [ { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/wide/public/image/split%20pk.png?itok=Pl2h3qHe", "height": "571", "width": "900" } ] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki/main-divide/du-faur-pk": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki/main-divide/du-faur-pk", "name": "Du Faur Pk", "altitude": "2330m", "access": null, "description": "Near Fitzgerald Pass", "latlng": [ "-43.66464305", "170.08398056" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki/main-divide/du-faur-pk/standard-route", "name": "Standard Route", "grade": "2", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "2", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "Via the ridge between the Stewart and Hayter Glaciers and then via rock buttress to the summit. A descent can be made directly down the Eugenie Glacier." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Freda Du Faur, Peter Graham, Mar 1912." }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki/main-divide/du-faur-pk/west-ridge", "name": "West Ridge", "grade": "II,3-", "topo_ref": null, "image": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/route/p1100278.jpg?itok=jBHTrTiC", "images": [ { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/route/p1100278.jpg?itok=jBHTrTiC", "height": "325", "width": "217" } ], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": "II", "mtcook": "3-", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": null } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": "Access the lower west ridge from the Copland Valley track and scramble at\nwill until gaining the ridge crest. Continue along the ridge and turn notches\non the northern and southern aspects. Short sections of up to grade 12\nclimbing on good quality rock, for the area. One abseil to the snow slopes of\nthe upper ridge.", "ascent": "Kieran Parsons and Pat Brownlie February 2014" } ], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/node/7005": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/node/7005", "name": "Upton Pk", "altitude": "2328m", "access": null, "description": "Upton Peak is on the ridge south-east of Mt Moffat.", "latlng": [ "-43.467218", "170.463077" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/node/7005/south-east-ridge", "name": "South East Ridge", "grade": "2+,II", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": "2+", "commitment": "II", "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": null } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": "A straightforward traverse from Panorama and Bruce Murray. (The first ascent avoided Bruce Murray.)", "ascent": "Will Kennedy, Jack Lippe, February 1925" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/node/7005/north-east-face", "name": "North East Face", "grade": "3,II", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": "3", "commitment": "II", "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": null } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": "Climb directly from the Grey Glacier.", "ascent": "Will Kennedy, Jack Lippe, January 1919" } ], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/canterbury/two-thumb-range/pt-2327": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/canterbury/two-thumb-range/pt-2327", "name": "Pt 2327", "altitude": "2327m", "access": null, "description": null, "latlng": [ "-43.59699", "170.709257" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/canterbury/two-thumb-range/pt-2327/two-thumb-stream", "name": "From Two Thumb Stream", "grade": null, "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "A rocky summit that can be reached from scree slopes immediately south of Electra." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": null } ], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/canterbury-westland-alps/john-pascoe-ridge/pt-2327": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/canterbury-westland-alps/john-pascoe-ridge/pt-2327", "name": "Pt 2327", "altitude": "2327m", "access": null, "description": null, "latlng": [ "-43.31962", "170.700674" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/canterbury-westland-alps/john-pascoe-ridge/pt-2327/garden-eden", "name": "From the Garden of Eden", "grade": "1", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "1", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "Snowslopes lead to the rocky summit ridge." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "S Conway, W Hannah, DC Morse, A McIlraith, R Chapman, M Stewart, 26 Dec 1950." } ], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/canterbury/two-thumb-range/exeter": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/canterbury/two-thumb-range/exeter", "name": "Exeter", "altitude": "2327m", "access": null, "description": "tba", "latlng": [ "-43.55373188", "170.6993072" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/canterbury/two-thumb-range/exeter/south-ridge", "name": "South Ridge", "grade": "1", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "1", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "The South Ridge is readily accessible and provides an easy scramble to the summit" } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": null }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/canterbury/two-thumb-range/exeter/east-ridge", "name": "East Ridge", "grade": "1+", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "1+", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "Reached via a straightforward tramp up Trojan Stream, followed by a steep climb on to the\r\nridge and a scramble to the summit." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Peter Bain, Ian Smith, December 1952" } ], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/canterbury-westland-alps/tensing-ridge/pt-2324": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/canterbury-westland-alps/tensing-ridge/pt-2324", "name": "Pt 2324", "altitude": "2324m", "access": null, "description": null, "latlng": [ "-43.301134", "170.717926" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/canterbury-westland-alps/tensing-ridge/pt-2324/pt-2314", "name": "From Pt 2314", "grade": "2+", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "2+", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "From Pt 2314, easy snow leads west to the top of a 20m rock step. From the col below, sidle then ascend snow slopes to the eastern (higher) summit. A second summit (10m lower) involves crossing a rock gap then ascending 40m of steep but firm rock. West off the lower summit involves a steep and exposed descent. This has been turned on the Aciphylla Creek side down a gut then across a sloping shelf before returning to the ridge. Beelzebub snow faces are then accessible, while further west there are towers on the ridge." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "George H Thompson, Matt Fowlds, Pat Campbell, Keith Williamson, 1 January 1954" } ], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/canterbury-westland-alps/cloudy-peak-range/tauroa-pk": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/canterbury-westland-alps/cloudy-peak-range/tauroa-pk", "name": "Tauroa Pk", "altitude": "2321m", "access": null, "description": null, "latlng": [ "-43.371428", "170.726681" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/canterbury/cloudy-peak-range/tauroa-pk/veil-stream", "name": "From Veil Stream", "grade": "1", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "1", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "Head up Veil Stream. Climb the ridge between Rollover and Clover Glaciers, then follow\r\nRollover Glacier and make a steep ridge scramble to the summit." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Dave Parr, Jack Pattle, Trevor James, February 1950" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/canterbury/cloudy-peak-range/tauroa-pk/frances-river", "name": "From Frances River", "grade": null, "topo_ref": "FR", "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "Follow Tauroa Creek for about 1 km then climb a scree slope that leads to the long north-east\r\nridge of Tauroa. From here options exist via the south-east ridge, east face and north-east ridge." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "R E (Gran) Clark, Bryan Barrer, Neville Barker, Arthur Pearson, January 1934" } ], "places": [], "image": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/wide/public/image/Turoa.png?itok=17-WY-XY", "images": [ { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/wide/public/image/Turoa.png?itok=17-WY-XY", "height": "603", "width": "900" } ] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/canterbury/jollie-range/mt-johnstone": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/canterbury/jollie-range/mt-johnstone", "name": "Mt Johnstone", "altitude": "2320m", "access": null, "description": "Jollie Range", "latlng": [ "-43.37528358", "170.85745303" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/canterbury/jollie-range/mt-johnstone/south-ridge", "name": "South Ridge", "grade": "1+", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "1+", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "To reach the South Ridge, begin a rising traverse 1 km down valley from Sinclair Bivvy. Follow\r\ncones of scree then rock gullies and grassy slopes. When nearing the basin below the low peak,\r\ncross the stream and gain the lower portion of the western ridge leading to the low peak south\r\nof Mt Johnstone. Traverse gendarmes and detour onto firm red rock slabs before reaching the\r\nlow peak. A short easy traverse leads to the high summit." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Mervyn Beauvais, Russell Pearce, December 1963" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/canterbury/jollie-range/mt-johnstone/south-ridge-lawrence", "name": "South Ridge from Lawrence", "grade": "2", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "2", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "The glacier south of Mt Johnstone can be reached either via the side creek north of Lawrence\r\nHut or from the creek south of Outlaw Stream. Follow the glacier to a col at the foot of the\r\nSouth Ridge of the low peak (2238m). The ridge is time consuming until the low peak is\r\nreached, but is straightforward from there to the high peak." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Ian Smith, G MacFarlane, Russell Pearce, Jack Taylor, March 1956" } ], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/canterbury-westland-alps/main-divide/sceptre-pk": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/canterbury-westland-alps/main-divide/sceptre-pk", "name": "Sceptre Pk", "altitude": "2319m", "access": null, "description": null, "latlng": [ "-43.350148", "170.672607" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/canterbury-westland-alps/main-divide/sceptre-pk/south-west-ridge", "name": "South West Ridge", "grade": "2", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "2", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "Climb the small tributary of the Havelock Glacier, avoiding seracs, aiming for open snow terraces\r\nabove. From here gain the broad ridge of the Main Divide north of Pt 2140 metres. Follow\r\nthe Divide, negotiating several rock and snow towers near the summit." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Stan Barnett, Bruce Turner, December 1933" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/canterbury-westland-alps/main-divide/sceptre-pk/havelock-face", "name": "Havelock Face", "grade": null, "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "From the lower Havelock Glacier follow a glacial lead around a large buttress, and then follow\r\nits north branch directly to the summit. This route has deteriorated since it was first climbed,\r\nleaving remnant icecliffs in place of continuous snow. The route is now very difficult." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Jack Pattle, Trevor James, date unknown" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/canterbury-westland-alps/main-divide/sceptre-pk/north-east-ridge", "name": "North East Ridge", "grade": "2-", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "2-", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "From Havelock Col follow the Divide via Pt 2269 metres, negotiating straightforward rock guts\r\non good rock on the western side." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Stan Barnett, Bruce Turner, December 1933" } ], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/canterbury/two-thumb-range/ajax": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/canterbury/two-thumb-range/ajax", "name": "Ajax", "altitude": "2319m", "access": null, "description": "tba", "latlng": [ "-43.57997016", "170.6526232" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/canterbury/two-thumb-range/ajax/north-west-ridge", "name": "North West Ridge", "grade": "1+", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "1+", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "Reach the North West Ridge from Chevalier Stream and scramble to the summit." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Bob Clark-Hall, J L (Pat) Clark-Hall, December 1941" } ], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/queenstown/remarkables/single-cone": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/queenstown/remarkables/single-cone", "name": "Single Cone", "altitude": "2319m", "access": "Access to the South face is gained by hiking up to Wye Saddle, above Lake Alta, and then crossing the plateau below the east face of Single Cone to a low point at the base of the ridge running above the South Face. From here an obvious large gully provides easy access down to the base of the\nface.\nThe face itself is trapezoidal in shape and varies in height from 150m at its eastern end, rising to nearly 300m below the summit of Single Cone. All of the climbs that top out on face have an easy walk off back across to Wye Saddle.\nNote that in general the existing routes which have only been assigned a numeric rock climbing grade are yet to receive a winter ascent.", "description": "Good ice climbing on the South Face. Mixed climbing on West Face.", "latlng": [ "-45.07376306", "168.81162643" ], "routes": [], "places": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/otago/the-remarkables/single-cone/south-face", "name": "South Face", "altitude": null, "access": "Access to the face is gained by hiking up to Wye Saddle, above Lake Alta, and then crossing the plateau below the east face of Single Cone to a low point at the base of the ridge running above the South Face. From here an obvious large gully provides easy access down to the base of the\nface.\nThe face itself is trapezoidal in shape and varies in height from 150m at its eastern end, rising to nearly 300m below the summit of Single Cone. All of the climbs that top out on face have an easy walk off back across to Wye Saddle.\nNote that in general the existing routes which have only been assigned a numeric rock climbing grade are yet to receive a winter ascent.", "description": "These slabs do not hold too many exciting options for winter climbing usually due to their lack of ice,\nhowever being very compact the rock is excellent for climbing on a hot summers day. There are plenty of potential projects and unexplored terrain here.\nOn the ridge leading up to the summit of Single Cone you will find a small walled bivy. From the bivy follow a small ledge for 5m that overlooks the face. Here you will find the top of a bolted rappel line. This takes you to down to a point approximately 30m from the base of the face \u2013 directly above an obvious snow patch. Be careful on the second to last rap as its approx 61m. At some point, this will get fixed up but for now knot your ropes and be careful. The following two routes start here:\nThe lower tier of the ice flow is equipped with a number of double bolt anchors that can be used for top roping and to enable an abseil descent to be made with one 60m rope.", "latlng": null, "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/otago/the-remarkables/single-cone/south-face/hundred-dollar-whore", "name": "Hundred Dollar Whore", "grade": "M5", "topo_ref": "97", "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": "M5", "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": null } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": "Nine pitches. Start up a right-facing gully system which leads into a series of short mixed corners. Follow this via steep snow/ice tending left towards ridge line. Exit via the upper headwall.", "ascent": "Daniel Joll, Rupert Gardiner, Kevin Barrett, 2011" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/otago/the-remarkables/single-cone/south-face/alejandro-el-bicho-le-gusta-sexo-duro", "name": "Alejandro El Bicho Le Gusta Sexo Duro", "grade": null, "topo_ref": "98", "image": null, "images": [], "length": "350m", "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": "350m", "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "M5+. 8 pitches. Climbs the obvious steep corner/chimney\r\nsystem approximately 100m left of Touch Down. The\r\ncrux of the route is on the lower two pitches up the chimney\r\nbefore the angle lies back slightly. Six more pitches at\r\ngrade M3-M4 lead directly up to the ridge." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": "8 pitches", "ascent": "Alex Corpas, Ben Dare, Daniel Joll, 2012" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/otago/the-remarkables/single-cone/south-face/single-cone-south-face", "name": "Single Cone South Face", "grade": "17,M4", "topo_ref": "99", "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": "M4", "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": "17", "description": "Start up an obvious corner; to the left of the major left\r\nhand ramp that bisects the face. Continue up directly to\r\ncross the ramp and climb through several small overhangs,\r\ncrux, before tending slightly left on easier ground.\r\nThe lower face was clear of snow and was climbed on\r\ntypically sound rock while the upper half was plastered in\r\nsnow and ice and had to be climbed as mixed. On the upper\r\nface when the gradient eases tend slightly left and top\r\nout below & left of Stairway to Methven." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Ben Dare solo, 2010." }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/otago/the-remarkables/single-cone/south-face/only-muppets", "name": "Only for Muppets", "grade": "WI3", "topo_ref": "100", "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": "WI3", "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "A short ice pitch which forms during good winters." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Dave Bolger, Rupert Gardiner, 2006." }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/otago/the-remarkables/single-cone/south-face/touch-down", "name": "Touch Down", "grade": "WI3", "topo_ref": "101", "image": null, "images": [], "length": "60m", "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": "WI3", "mixed": null, "length": "60m", "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "An absolute classic, and a must for the area which\r\nforms consistently every year. The top of the route is\r\nequipped with a double ring bolt abseil station for the descent\r\nand/or top roping." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": null }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/otago/the-remarkables/single-cone/south-face/touch-down-rhs", "name": "Touch Down RHS", "grade": "WI2", "topo_ref": "102", "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": "WI2", "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "Right to left tending ice ramps that traverse into the top\r\nof the Touch Down flow." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "First ascent unknown." }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/otago/the-remarkables/single-cone/south-face/eclipse", "name": "Eclipse", "grade": "WI2,M6", "topo_ref": null, "image": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/route/cropped_ben_p2_2014-05-17_13.51.22.jpg?itok=3Hjeu2KB", "images": [ { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/route/cropped_ben_p2_2014-05-17_13.51.22.jpg?itok=3Hjeu2KB", "height": "217", "width": "325" } ], "length": "125m", "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": "WI2", "mixed": "M6", "length": "125m", "bolts": null, "trad": true, "ewbank": null, "description": "a \u2018large corner up above the right-hand side\u2019 of Touch Down on the south face of Single Cone in the Remarkables, according to Ben. After climbing the ice to the start of the corner, the second and third pitches follow the corner system before the route veers left \u2018through steep mixed ground\u2019 to reach \u2018the crest\u2019 of a rock spur, which divides Touch Down\u2019s waterfall ice." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": true, "description": null, "ascent": "Danny Murphy and Ben Dare, Jun 2014" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/otago/the-remarkables/single-cone/south-face/project", "name": "Project", "grade": null, "topo_ref": "103", "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "From top of Touch Down direct to the summit ridge." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": null }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/otago/the-remarkables/single-cone/south-face/mixed-ambition", "name": "Mixed ambition", "grade": "WI3,M5", "topo_ref": null, "image": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/routes/South%20Face%20Single~2.jpg?itok=O85bxgEw", "images": [ { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/routes/South%20Face%20Single~2.jpg?itok=O85bxgEw", "height": "244", "width": "325" } ], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": "WI3", "mixed": "M5", "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "Quite engaging slab climbing with marginal protection that in typical conditions requires some digging. Likely climbed before 2018 but can't see any record" } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": "From top of touchdown tend right and up to the ridge", "ascent": "James Warren, Nathanael Sage, Jacob Downie Aug 2018" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/otago/the-remarkables/single-cone/south-face/south-face-classic", "name": "South Face Classic", "grade": "WI3", "topo_ref": "104", "image": null, "images": [], "length": "300m", "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": "WI3", "mixed": null, "length": "300m", "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "A great introduction to alpine climbing on the south\r\nface, which climbs the ice of Touch Down before following\r\nleft tending snow ramps to the ridge. Has seen several\r\nretreats and at least one rescue. Solo first ascent." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Steve Carr, Derek Chinn, 2001." }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/otago/the-remarkables/single-cone/south-face/littlewood-route", "name": "Littlewood Route", "grade": "18", "topo_ref": "105", "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": "18", "description": "5 Pitches. Follows a line climbers left of the rap line." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Steve Barratt, Jade Littlewood, 2011." }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/otago/the-remarkables/single-cone/south-face/barretts-route", "name": "Barretts Route", "grade": "18", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": true, "ewbank": "18", "description": null } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": true, "description": "Five pitches on the right-hand slabs. Takes a line to the left of the abseil line used to get to the bottom of the face.", "ascent": "Steve Barrett, 2012" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/otago/the-remarkables/single-cone/south-face/got-no-shoes", "name": "Got No Shoes", "grade": "17", "topo_ref": "106", "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": true, "ewbank": "17", "description": "5 pitches. Slightly further to the right of the abseil line." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": true, "description": null, "ascent": "Daniel Joll, Danny Murphy, 2011." }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/otago/the-remarkables/single-cone/south-face/finnigan-dare", "name": "Finnigan Dare", "grade": "18", "topo_ref": "107", "image": null, "images": [], "length": "250m", "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": "250m", "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": "18", "description": "7 pitches. Start out up an easy corner to the right\r\nof the winter ice lines before traversing left along a wide\r\nledge. Climb the wall above the ledge via an obvious\r\nslightly overhanging crack, crux, before continuing up predominantly\r\nslabby, but easier, ground above. Tend slightly\r\nright at the base of the final headwall to reach the top of\r\nthe face." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Ben Dare, Andrew Finnigan, 2011." }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/otago/the-remarkables/single-cone/south-face/project-0", "name": "Project", "grade": null, "topo_ref": "108", "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "Rap, or walk, in to the base of the\r\ntwo rock routes above and start up\r\nwide corner system heading to the\r\nridge. This could potentially form\r\nup in winter as well, although it will\r\ninvolve some long run out slab sections." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": null }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/otago/the-remarkables/single-cone/south-face/project-1", "name": "Project", "grade": null, "topo_ref": "109", "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "Ascend the obvious right slanting chimney before continuing\r\nfor approximately four pitches to the top of the face.\r\nIt is unknown whether the line has been extended for the\r\nfull height of the face." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": null }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/otago/the-remarkables/single-cone/south-face/uncle-al%E2%80%99s-retro-rack", "name": "Uncle Al\u2019s Retro Rack", "grade": "17", "topo_ref": "110", "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": true, "ewbank": "17", "description": "4 pitches. Pitch 1, start up right of the chimney and climb nice cracks until the slab steepens and gear runs out.\r\nStep right and continue up, more gear appears after 10-15m, to a double bolt belay. The origin of which is unknown however it appears to be for top-roping on the nice slab right of this route. Follow ledge system right then straight up three more easy pitches to the ridge line.\r\nThis four-pitch route begins on some nice cracks before climbing a slab to an existing double bolt belay, then moves right up a ledge system then to the ridge." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": true, "description": null, "ascent": "Daniel Joll, Paul Angus, 2012" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/otago/the-remarkables/single-cone/south-face/blame-rabbit", "name": "Blame the Rabbit", "grade": "18", "topo_ref": "111", "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": true, "ewbank": "18", "description": null } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": true, "description": "Start up the flake of Big Bouncing Boulders, before continuing up and slightly left on steep ground where the original line tends right. Climb featured slabs right and through two steep steps before straightening and angling up to the ridge.", "ascent": "Ben Dare, 2012" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/otago/the-remarkables/single-cone/south-face/big-bouncing-boulders", "name": "Big Bouncing Boulders", "grade": "17", "topo_ref": "112", "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": true, "ewbank": "17", "description": null } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": true, "description": "Start up the flake of Big Bouncing Boulders, before continuing up and slightly left on steep ground where the original line tends right. Climb featured slabs right and through two steep steps before straightening and angling up to the ridge.", "ascent": "Danny Murphy, Ben Dare, 2012" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/otago/the-remarkables/single-cone/south-face/easy-shanking", "name": "Easy Shanking", "grade": "18", "topo_ref": "113", "image": null, "images": [], "length": "170m", "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": "170m", "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": "18", "description": "On the far right of the slabs; exiting near the access\r\ngully. The route tends right for three pitches then\r\nstraightens up for the final 20m." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Dave Bolger, Rupert Gardiner." }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/otago/the-remarkables/single-cone/south-face/4vlolz", "name": "4VLOLZ", "grade": null, "topo_ref": null, "image": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/route/IMG_7465.JPG?itok=QEiRwOmT", "images": [ { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/route/IMG_7465.JPG?itok=QEiRwOmT", "height": "244", "width": "325" }, { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/route/4VLOLZ_0.JPG?itok=pQBLAa4K", "height": "244", "width": "325" }, { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/route/IMG_7478.JPG?itok=QHsNPbMv", "height": "244", "width": "325" } ], "length": null, "pitches": [], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": "Takes the left side of the pinnacle on the face, starting up a gully right of\nStairway to Methven, and a small left facing corner left of Sunset on Single,\nthen steep blocky terrain to top of pinnacle.", "ascent": "Steve Fortune, Ari Kingan and Pete Harris, Oct 2013" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/otago/the-remarkables/single-cone/south-face/fifty-dollar-fck", "name": "Fifty Dollar F#ck", "grade": "M5", "topo_ref": "97a", "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": "M5", "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "Blocky bits lead to the base of an obvious corner." }, { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": "M5", "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "Stem and hook your way through the corner (crux) topping our on a sweeping right tending snow ramp." }, { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": "M4", "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "Continue up pitches 3\u20137, keeping left to gain a subtle ridge passing several steps of M4 between moderate ground. Simul-climbing will speed things up. Keeps it coming until the top!" } ], "quality": 2, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": "Fun, engaging climbing. Much like the other routes around here, the meat is in the first two pitches and the potatoes take you to the top. Climbs the left side of the buttress that juts out before the ridge that separates the south and west face. Alejandro etc. etc. climbs the right side of this buttress.", "ascent": "Steve Skelton, Vaughan Snowden, September 2013" } ], "places": [], "image": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/wide/public/image/South%20Single%20C.jpg?itok=JIAtatpX", "images": [ { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/wide/public/image/South%20Single%20C.jpg?itok=JIAtatpX", "height": "464", "width": "572" }, { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/image/South%20Face%20Single.jpg?itok=j0pV1O4b", "height": "244", "width": "325" } ] }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/otago/the-remarkables/single-cone/west-face", "name": "West Face", "altitude": null, "access": null, "description": "Mixed climbing on West to Southwest face of Single Cone", "latlng": null, "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/otago/the-remarkables/single-cone/west-face/fire-sky", "name": "Fire in the Sky", "grade": "M6", "topo_ref": "91", "image": null, "images": [], "length": "250m", "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": "M6", "length": "250m", "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "Begin at the apex of the large scree/snow cone\r\nbelow the face and climb thinly iced mixed ground to the\r\nlower snow/ice field. Tend left and enter a steep and tight\r\nsnow filled corner, which leads to a prominent snow patch\r\nat approximately half height on the face. Above this begin\r\ndirectly up steep slabs and through an overhang, crux, to\r\nwhere the climbing eases back slightly. Continue straight\r\nup to top out right of the prominent rock tower on the\r\nridge leading to the summit of Single Cone." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Ben Dare solo, 2010." }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/otago/the-remarkables/single-cone/west-face/stairway-methven", "name": "Stairway to Methven", "grade": "M5", "topo_ref": "92", "image": null, "images": [], "length": "250m", "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": "M5", "length": "250m", "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "Start to the right of Fire in the Sky and follow the\r\nleft tending snow ramp to the base of the steeper mixed\r\nground. From here head directly up the edge of the rock\r\nspur between the west and south faces. When the gradient\r\neases, gain the spur itself and continue up towards\r\nthe top of the face. Tackle the final headwall via a large\r\ncorner which is blocked at the top by several large chock\r\nstones. Climb under these to easier ground to finish just\r\nto the right of the normal descent gully leading from the\r\nsummit of Single Cone." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Ben Dare, Steve Leake, 2010." }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/otago/the-remarkables/single-cone/west-face/martyr", "name": "Martyr", "grade": "M4", "topo_ref": "93", "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": "M4", "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": null } ], "quality": 2, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": "Up the centre of the face finishing south of the summit. Pretty rad, fun climbing.\nThis climb weaves its way through the lower two rock bands to meet the large snowfield at about half height. Take a gully / cleft in the climber's right hand side of the face above the snow field. Exit this to the left and follow diagonal gully line through a few harder (M4) steps to finish on the ridge to the right.\nGetting to the snowfield can be simul-climbed as there usually arent much difficulties through the rock bands at the start.", "ascent": "Steve Skelton, Andrew Mills" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/otago/the-remarkables/single-cone/west-face/gone-rogue", "name": "Gone Rogue", "grade": "M5", "topo_ref": "GR", "image": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/routes/Gone%20Rogue.jpg?itok=tPHNE-lI", "images": [ { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/routes/Gone%20Rogue.jpg?itok=tPHNE-lI", "height": "325", "width": "293" } ], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": "M5", "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": null } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": "This climb stays true to the centre of the upper headwall to the summit. A fantastic day out with a stunning final pitch!\nWork your way to the snow slope at half height. There are several ways to get there.\nFrom the snow field, start on the slabs left of Martyr aiming for a large corner in the centre of the face. Two pitches of slab climbing leads to the base of a mean corner. At the top of the corner angle left to finish near the true summit of Single Cone.", "ascent": "Steve Skelton, Craig Jefferies, Kyle Ryan Walter, - July 2019" } ], "places": [], "image": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/wide/public/image/Double_Single%20Cone_1%20opy.jpg?itok=Iu7CWrMV", "images": [ { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/wide/public/image/Double_Single%20Cone_1%20opy.jpg?itok=Iu7CWrMV", "height": "729", "width": "832" } ] }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/queenstown/remarkables/single-cone/east-face", "name": "East Face", "altitude": null, "access": null, "description": null, "latlng": [ "-45.072", "168.81" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/queenstown/remarkables/single-cone/east-face/south-east-ridge", "name": "South East Ridge", "grade": "1+", "topo_ref": "1", "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [], "quality": 3, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": "Head up to Wye Saddle and towards the southeast ridgeline and climb the mild slabs towards a distinct couloir. At the top, you'll need to climb over a pretty exposed section to follow a short ledge to the summit.", "ascent": "FA: Dave McLeod probably" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/queenstown/remarkables/single-cone/east-face/north-east-ridge", "name": "North East Ridge", "grade": "2", "topo_ref": "2", "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "2", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": null } ], "quality": 2, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": "Head up to Wye Saddle. From there follow the obvious ridgeline/arete to the summit. The last section can be a bit committing.", "ascent": "FA: Dave McLeod probably" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/queenstown/remarkables/single-cone/east-face/north-east-alternative", "name": "North East Alternative", "grade": "2", "topo_ref": "2.1", "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [], "quality": 1, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": "Blast your way up the east face following the good snow. Later sections are above some decent bluffs so long slides could have big consequences.", "ascent": null }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/queenstown/remarkables/single-cone/east-face/white-privilege", "name": "White Privilege", "grade": "III,5", "topo_ref": null, "image": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/2024-04/Screenshot_20240405-161515_Messenger.jpg?itok=Bikn2Y0d", "images": [ { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/2024-04/Screenshot_20240405-161515_Messenger.jpg?itok=Bikn2Y0d", "height": "325", "width": "154" } ], "length": "200m", "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": "III", "mtcook": "5", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": "200m", "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "Great , logical line with steep climbing on the first 3 pitches. Technical grade will vary depending on conditions, so loathe to give a mixed grade. A full single rack would be wise, ideally double greens and reds, plus small/medium wires. No screws placed. 200 + m descent via normal s-east ridge. Climbed in 4 +1 pitches." } ], "quality": 2, "bolts": "0", "natural_pro": false, "description": "First winter ascent of East face of Single Cone, Murray Ball Bill Feasey, 27 August 2022 .", "ascent": null } ], "places": [], "image": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/wide/public/image/Inked20220906_122045.jpg?itok=l8SuoXjs", "images": [ { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/wide/public/image/Inked20220906_122045.jpg?itok=l8SuoXjs", "height": "818", "width": "1090" } ] } ], "image": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/wide/public/image/Double_Single%20Cone_0%20%281%29%20copy_0.jpg?itok=dfq7xSdR", "images": [ { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/wide/public/image/Double_Single%20Cone_0%20%281%29%20copy_0.jpg?itok=dfq7xSdR", "height": "729", "width": "832" }, { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/image/South%20Face%20Single_0.jpg?itok=u1Pmvxha", "height": "244", "width": "325" }, { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/image/South%20Single%20C_0.jpg?itok=J08DD2iT", "height": "264", "width": "325" } ] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/c58dhau-landsborough/ben-ohau-range/pt-2319": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/c58dhau-landsborough/ben-ohau-range/pt-2319", "name": "Pt 2319", "altitude": "2319m", "access": null, "description": null, "latlng": [ "-43.95939652839", "170.01579993196" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/%C5%8Dhau-landsborough/ben-ohau-range/pt-2319/bazley%E2%80%93hersey", "name": "Bazley\u2013Hersey", "grade": "14,3,II", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": "3", "commitment": "II", "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": "14", "description": null } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": "Begin in an easy slanting gully on right-hand side of the north-east face. When the gully steepens and narrows, move onto the rock buttress on the left. Climb the rock for two pitches (crux) then ascend the upper snowfield to the summit.", "ascent": "Kynan Bazley, Paul Hersey, July 2004" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/%C5%8Dhau-landsborough/ben-ohau-range/pt-2319/rolleston-prison-years", "name": "The Rolleston Prison Years", "grade": "12,3,II", "topo_ref": null, "image": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/route/GM_IMG_0425.jpg?itok=2zg_HUVg", "images": [ { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/route/GM_IMG_0425.jpg?itok=2zg_HUVg", "height": "325", "width": "244" } ], "length": "250m", "pitches": [ { "alpine": "3", "commitment": "II", "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": "250m", "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": "12", "description": null } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": "From the head of Jacks Stream, climb the buttress on Pt 2319 to the right of Bazley\u2013Hersey, with 250m of good rock.", "ascent": "Guy McKinnon, August 2013" } ], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/otago/richardson-mountains/lochnagar": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/otago/richardson-mountains/lochnagar", "name": "Lochnagar", "altitude": "2316m", "access": "Access from the Rees via Twenty Five Mile Creek is through Rees Valley Station. Permission must be obtained from the station prior to the start of the trip. Detailed information can be obtained at https://www.reesvalley.co.nz/access/\nAlternatively, it is possible to access the mountain from Rees Saddle, traversing a number of high alpine basins below the spine of the Richardson Mountains. This route is entirely on public conservation land.", "description": "Richardson Mountains", "latlng": [ "-44.59512481", "168.56843788" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/otago/richardson-mountains/lochnagar/north-west-ridge", "name": "North West Ridge", "grade": null, "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": "No public access up Twenty Five Mile Creek without permission from Rees Valley Station. From the junction with Twenty-Five Mile Stream, follow the true left of Rough Creek and then climb into the head of the north branch of Rough Creek. (Can also be reached from Rees Saddle.) Gain the crest of the main ridge running south to a peak 300m north of the summit (Pt 2182m), traverse to the ridge west of this and follow slabs to the summit.", "ascent": "A Jackson, J Holloway, January 1933" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/otago/richardson-mountains/lochnagar/north-west-face", "name": "North West Face", "grade": null, "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": "No public access up Twenty Five Mile Creek without permission from Rees Valley Station. From the junction with Twenty-Five Mile Stream, follow the true left of Rough Creek to just above its forks then up steep tussock and slabs of the north-west face.", "ascent": null }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/otago/richardson-mountains/lochnagar/south-ridge", "name": "South Ridge", "grade": null, "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": "No public access up Twenty Five Mile Creek without permission from Rees Valley Station. From the top forks of the main stream of Twenty-Five Mile Stream head up Rough Creek. From the head of the main (south) branch, follow scree to the South Ridge.", "ascent": null } ], "places": [], "image": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/wide/public/image/CP_Lochnagar_opt.jpeg?itok=_G1jb2gD", "images": [ { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/wide/public/image/CP_Lochnagar_opt.jpeg?itok=_G1jb2gD", "height": "638", "width": "851" } ] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aspiring/main-divide/pt-2316": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aspiring/main-divide/pt-2316", "name": "Pt 2316", "altitude": "2316m", "access": null, "description": null, "latlng": [ "-44.0343506517", "169.581458919" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aspiring/main-divide/pt-2316/hunter-river", "name": "From Hunter River", "grade": "2-", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": "0m", "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "2-", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": null } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": "0", "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "M R Fitchett, Graham Riley, J D Willis, February 1934" } ], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/arthurs-pass/birdwood-range/mt-greenlaw": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/arthurs-pass/birdwood-range/mt-greenlaw", "name": "Mt Greenlaw", "altitude": "2315m", "access": null, "description": "Lying just outside the national park boundaries, Mt Greenlaw is a sought-after peak, being the second highest in the area (after Mt Murchison) and has a reputation as a challenging climb. The North East Face is the standard route to the summit, whether approaching from the Waimakariri or Avoca Rivers.", "latlng": [ "-43.02419747", "171.41215828" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/arthurs-pass/birdwood-range/mt-greenlaw/anti-crow-river", "name": "From Anti Crow River", "grade": "2", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": "2", "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "Mt Greenlaw is the best climb from the head of the Anti Crow River. The usual route crosses Gizeh Col and descends to the upper Avoca Valley, then ascends the bluffs to the Avoca Glacier and the North East Face route. A longer, more varied route crosses Fools Col to Avoca Col, then follows a broken ridge to Greenlaw Col. From the col, either continue along the North Ridge, or traverse the snowfield and climb the North East Face." } ], "quality": 1, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "G Doig, K Coad, R G Logan, December 1934" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/arthurs-pass/birdwood-range/mt-greenlaw/north-ridge", "name": "North Ridge", "grade": "2", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": "2", "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "Gain the Avoca Glacier as for the North East Face route. The north ridge can be reached from the glacier at various points and followed to the summit, but this is a loose, jagged and time-consuming option." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "David Hall, John Pascoe, December 1939" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/arthurs-pass/birdwood-range/mt-greenlaw/north-east-face", "name": "North East Face", "grade": "2", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "2", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "From Moraine Flat, head upstream and ascend scree slopes to the base of bluffs below the Avoca Glacier. Several routes are possible through the bluffs, which involve straightforward rock climbing and scrambling on reasonably good rock. From the top of the bluffs, cross the Avoca Glacier, heading south-west towards the summit of Mt Greenlaw, avoiding gendarmes and loose\r\nrock on the north ridge. The rock on the summit of Mt Greenlaw is notoriously loose. At the end of the glacier, rather than join the north ridge, traverse south slightly on to marginally better rock on a rib that leads directly to the summit. Follow this to the top.\r\nThe east ridge can be gained at about half height from the Avoca Glacier." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Edgar R Williams, R E McInnes, R E (Gran) Clark, November 1930" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/arthurs-pass/birdwood-range/mt-greenlaw/south-face", "name": "South Face", "grade": null, "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "Straightforward mixed climbing from the Avoca Valley." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Ian Crozier, Manfred Ingerfeld, November 1977" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/arthurs-pass/birdwood-range/mt-greenlaw/burnett-stream", "name": "From Burnett Stream", "grade": null, "topo_ref": "BS", "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "About 4 km from Weka-Burnett Bivouac take a prominent scree gully south of Pt 1598 metres.\r\nFrom the head of the scree traverse north to avoid bluffs and aim for the base of a broad ramp\r\nleading to the summit. Scramble over the last steep loose rock to the top. This route is tricky\r\nwhen there is no consolidated snow." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": null } ], "places": [], "image": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/wide/public/image/Greenlaw.png?itok=7gxad6D4", "images": [ { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/wide/public/image/Greenlaw.png?itok=7gxad6D4", "height": "588", "width": "900" } ] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/main-divide-of-the-southern-alps/dennistoun-pk": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/main-divide-of-the-southern-alps/dennistoun-pk", "name": "Dennistoun Pk", "altitude": "2315m", "access": null, "description": "tba", "latlng": [ "-43.4334757", "170.59321404" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/main-divide-of-the-southern-alps/dennistoun-pk/west-ridge", "name": "West Ridge", "grade": "1", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "1", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "Traverse from the summit of Malthus. Descend the east ridge to the Main Divide col and then climb the west ridge." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "T A Fletcher, Will Kennedy, A Sutton-Turner, Jack Lippe, Dec 1920" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/main-divide-of-the-southern-alps/dennistoun-pk/main-divide", "name": "Main Divide", "grade": "1+", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "1+", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "From the plateau to the south-west of Malthus traverse the south-eastern slopes to the Main Divide col between Malthus and the peak. Continue up the ridge to the summit or use the slopes on the Westland side." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": null }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/main-divide-of-the-southern-alps/dennistoun-pk/unnamed", "name": "Unnamed", "grade": null, "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "As for the previous route but continue to and climb the south ridge rather than the Main Divide col." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": null }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/main-divide-of-the-southern-alps/dennistoun-pk/south-ridge", "name": "South Ridge", "grade": null, "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "Gain the plateau east of the peak by the best route possible from the upper Godley Glacier. Then use steep snow slopes to access a rock ridge that descends to the south from the summit." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "G P Raywood, R C Bradshaw, R Freeman, J H Christie, Dec 1938" } ], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/c58dhau-landsborough/naumann-range/dasler-pinnacles": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/c58dhau-landsborough/naumann-range/dasler-pinnacles", "name": "Dasler Pinnacles", "altitude": "2315m", "access": null, "description": "Bestowed (red), Forgotten (Green), Fly on little wing (winter ascent \u2013 yellow), Bedazzled (light blue), Flywheel (orange), Petit Peuterey D (dark blue). There are many additional routes and we do not have a lot of information on several of the indicated routes.", "latlng": [ "-43.9592", "169.8697" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/%C5%8Dhau-landsborough/naumann-range/dasler-pinnacles/north-ridge", "name": "North Ridge", "grade": "1+,II", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": "1+", "commitment": "II", "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": null } ], "quality": 1, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": "From Dasler Bivouac scramble up through tussock and scree to a saddle at the base of the ridge. The ridge is excellent quality rock and leads directly to the summit and perhaps the finest viewpoint in the valley. Running shoe ascents of this route have been made in summer.", "ascent": "Cedric Benzoni, Les Buddicom, A Davies, Jim Dawson, George Edwards, Gordon Edwards, Russell Edwards, Jim Gilkison, Scott Gilkison, B R Hill, Christopher Johnson, Doug Knowles, George Palmer, Ernie Smith, April 1936" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/%C5%8Dhau-landsborough/naumann-range/dasler-pinnacles/bestowed", "name": "Bestowed", "grade": "14,5,III", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": "210m", "pitches": [ { "alpine": "5", "commitment": "III", "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": "210m", "bolts": null, "trad": true, "ewbank": "14", "description": null } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": true, "description": "Begin between two snow patches at the base of the cliff\u2019s left side. Climb slightly to the right onto a large triangle buttress on the face (good rest spot), into a corner chute and up to reach the ridge between two spikes. Grade 12 up to the buttress, 14 above buttress.", "ascent": "Kevin Hammond, January 2004" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/%C5%8Dhau-landsborough/naumann-range/dasler-pinnacles/dare-finnigan", "name": "Dare-Finnigan", "grade": "12,4,III", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": "4", "commitment": "III", "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": "12", "description": null } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": "This line follows a faint rib to the left of the slabs climbed by Forgotten and starts about 50m right of the two snow patches that Bestowed starts between.", "ascent": "Ben Dare, Andrew Finnigan, 2012" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/%C5%8Dhau-landsborough/naumann-range/dasler-pinnacles/forgotten", "name": "Forgotten", "grade": "12,4,IV", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": "4", "commitment": "IV", "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": "12", "description": null } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": "Begin about 50 metres to the left of Bedazzled and follow a fairly straight line of slabs with limited protection directly to the north ridge, always left of Fly on Little Wing. Finish about 100m north of the summit.", "ascent": "Nick Cradock, Martin Hawes, February 2010" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/%C5%8Dhau-landsborough/naumann-range/dasler-pinnacles/fly-little-wing", "name": "Fly on Little Wing", "grade": "5,IV,WI4", "topo_ref": null, "image": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/route/fly_wing.jpg?itok=REB_Uumo", "images": [ { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/route/fly_wing.jpg?itok=REB_Uumo", "height": "325", "width": "285" } ], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": "5", "commitment": "IV", "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": "WI4", "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": null } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": "A mixed winter route on the west face of Dasler Pinnacles. WI4 for the start, a really tough last two pitches and overall grade 5ish. Start up the the obvious ice hose left of the summer line \u201cBedazzled\u201c, then angle right up an easier snow slope to reach the big arete at about three quarters of the way up the face. Three pitches of hard mixed climbing up the arete to the summit. The first ascent party took 17.5 hours to complete the climb from Daslers Bivouac.", "ascent": "Andrew Rennie, Tom Lanagan, 2007" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/%C5%8Dhau-landsborough/naumann-range/dasler-pinnacles/bedazzled", "name": "Bedazzled", "grade": "15,5,III", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": "400m", "pitches": [ { "alpine": "5", "commitment": "III", "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": "400m", "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": "15", "description": null } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": "This route was named in 1995 but climbed as early as 1970. A 400m line on the buttress to the left of the big dark corner on the Pinnacles. The route climbs rock at grade 14\u201315 and ends directly on the summit. Variations exist, including following the arete to the summit.", "ascent": "Bruce Lusher, 1970" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/%C5%8Dhau-landsborough/naumann-range/dasler-pinnacles/big-corner", "name": "Big Corner", "grade": "4,III", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": "4", "commitment": "III", "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": null } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": "A winter climb that follows the corner until near the top, then breaks off onto easier ground on slabs on the right-hand side.", "ascent": "Steve Fortune, Jaap Overtoom, 2000" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/%C5%8Dhau-landsborough/naumann-range/dasler-pinnacles/flywheel", "name": "Flywheel", "grade": "14,4+,III", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": "4+", "commitment": "III", "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": "14", "description": null } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": "This route climbs the tall slab face to the right of the huge black corner on the Pinnacles. At first climb 200m up the centre of the face to a terrace, move left to within 50m of the black corner, then 400m\nof slabs keeping roughly parallel with the corner. The slabs give consistent grade 12\u201314 climbing.", "ascent": "Bill McLeod, March 1994" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/canterbury/naumann-range/dasler-pinnacles/white-strike", "name": "White Strike", "grade": "WI3,M4", "topo_ref": null, "image": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/route/whitestikebb.jpg?itok=wUCyeU4u", "images": [ { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/route/whitestikebb.jpg?itok=wUCyeU4u", "height": "196", "width": "325" } ], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": "WI3", "mixed": "M4", "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": null } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": "The route is to the right of Petit Peuterey and ascends the striking line on\nthe southern (lower right) tier of the face, with sparse but adequate\nprotection (all rock gear). The first ascentionists found thin ice and much\nof the rock rotten or blank, hence the lack of protection. The best descent\nis to abseil the route.", "ascent": "Jamie Vinton-Boot, Paul Hersey, September 2011" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/canterbury/naumann-range/dasler-pinnacles/resistentialism", "name": "Resistentialism", "grade": "5,M5", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": "400m", "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "5", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": "M5", "length": "400m", "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": null } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": ":\nSouth Face Dasler Pinnacles.\nClimbs the large corner system on the LHS of the face, sticking to the corner\nthroughtout, up a steep chimney at the top. Could be a lot fatter in good\nconditions?\nDescended the large snow gully on the West Face (abseiled one step in gully,\nand one ice pitch at base of gully.)", "ascent": "Ben Dare, Steve Fortune 1/9/13" } ], "places": [], "image": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/wide/public/image/forgotten.jpg?itok=nFkk3vDF", "images": [ { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/wide/public/image/forgotten.jpg?itok=nFkk3vDF", "height": "387", "width": "600" } ] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/main-divide-of-the-southern-alps/the-amazons-breasts": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/main-divide-of-the-southern-alps/the-amazons-breasts", "name": "The Amazons Breasts", "altitude": "2314m", "access": null, "description": "na", "latlng": [ "-43.207741", "170.948467" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/main-divide-of-the-southern-alps/the-amazons-breasts/glacier-route", "name": "Glacier Route", "grade": "1", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "1", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "The Amazons Breasts are easy snow climbs from the upper Ramsay Glacier." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "John Pascoe, Wyn Barnett, (Allan) Priestley Thomson, January 1933" } ], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aspiring/forbes-mountains/head-pk": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aspiring/forbes-mountains/head-pk", "name": "Head Pk", "altitude": "2313m", "access": null, "description": null, "latlng": [ "-44.27377875", "168.40797" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aspiring/forbes-mountains/head-pk/east-ridge", "name": "East Ridge", "grade": "I,1", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": "I", "mtcook": "1", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "From the West Hunter and Jura Glacier. Access to the Jura glacier is via a rough gully beginning at E40 473 159 that climbs left to the glacier." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": null }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aspiring/forbes-mountains/head-pk/west-ridge", "name": "West Ridge", "grade": "1,I", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": "0m", "pitches": [ { "alpine": "1", "commitment": "I", "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": null } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": "0", "natural_pro": false, "description": "From the bottom of Cattle Flat climb up Rough Creek and follow tussock ledges above the bushline. From Daleys Flat in the Dart or Whatta Creek ascend to well above the bush line and sidle north on ledges until the west ridge leads to the summit.", "ascent": null } ], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/canterbury/two-thumb-range/mt-pattisson": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/canterbury/two-thumb-range/mt-pattisson", "name": "Mt Pattisson", "altitude": "2313m", "access": null, "description": null, "latlng": [ "-43.629242", "170.729427" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/canterbury/two-thumb-range/mt-pattisson/two-thumb-stream", "name": "From Two Thumb Stream", "grade": "1+", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "1+", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "Both these peaks can be climbed from Two Thumb Stream by picking a route on scree and\r\nsnow-grass through small bluffs and outcrops of steep, loose rock. They can also be linked as\r\npart of a ridge traverse." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": null } ], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/canterbury/hall-range/pt-2312": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/canterbury/hall-range/pt-2312", "name": "Pt 2312", "altitude": "2312m", "access": null, "description": null, "latlng": [ "-43.62498967", "170.43335841" ], "routes": [], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/canterbury/sibbald-range/pt-2311": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/canterbury/sibbald-range/pt-2311", "name": "Pt 2311", "altitude": "2311m", "access": null, "description": "At the south end of the Sibbald Range, above Sibbald Knobs.", "latlng": [ "-43.64712179", "170.5390625" ], "routes": [], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/nelson-lakes-kaikc58dura/seaward-kaikc58dura-range/pt-2311": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/nelson-lakes-kaikc58dura/seaward-kaikc58dura-range/pt-2311", "name": "Pt 2311", "altitude": "2311m", "access": null, "description": "This peak is usually climbed en route to Tarahaka from either Miller Stream or George Stream and spur.", "latlng": [ "-42.145814", "173.728245" ], "routes": [], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/darrans/darran-mountains/mt-te-wera": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/darrans/darran-mountains/mt-te-wera", "name": "Mt Te Wera", "altitude": "2309m", "access": null, "description": "Te Wera is a great rock pyramid and the highest point of the Central Darrans.", "latlng": [ "-44.6582749", "168.05425644" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/darrans/darran-mountains/mt-te-wera/north-ridge", "name": "North Ridge", "grade": "11,II", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": "II", "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": "11", "description": "Gain the ridge from snow leads on the north west (Lake Turner) face. Scrambling, with a couple of steeper steps. \r\nThe first ascent party climbed from the Te Puoho Glacier via the cols below Te Wera\u2019s south and west ridges.\r\nFull North Ridge (from col south of Pt 1969) climbed by James Speirs, Rich Turner, Dave Vass, February 2011." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "David Lewis, Lindsay Stewart, 1938" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/darrans/darran-mountains/mt-te-wera/east-ridge", "name": "East Ridge", "grade": null, "topo_ref": "10", "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "Ascend to the Col between Te Wera and Ngaitahu then easy scrambling along the broken ridge to the summit." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Phil Houghton, Mike Gill, Feb 1959." }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/darrans/darran-mountains/mt-te-wera/south-ridge", "name": "South Ridge", "grade": null, "topo_ref": "7", "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [], "quality": 1, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": "The South Ridge might be a little loose in places, but it is steep, airy and\nexposed: a stone cold classic.", "ascent": "Mike Gill, Phil Houghton (descended), February 1959; Doug Warren, 1972" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/darrans/darran-mountains/mt-te-wera/west-ridge", "name": "West Ridge", "grade": null, "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "Start from the col halfway along the ridge. Five ropes lengths on unstable and exposed rock, then scrambling to the summit. \r\nThe first ascent party accessed the route from the Te Puoho via the col at the base of Te Wera\u2019s south ridge, climbing the south ridge for 200m then dropping to snow fields under the south west face." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Harold Jacobs, Murray Jones, February 1969" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/darrans/darran-mountains/mt-te-wera/west-ridge-direct", "name": "West Ridge Direct", "grade": "18", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": true, "ewbank": "18", "description": "Head up a scoop from Lake Turner to start at a notch in the West Ridge. Climb three pitches of 18 up the buttress and then scramble on loose blocks to the summit." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": true, "description": null, "ascent": "Brigid Allan, Anna Gillooly, Feb 2001." } ], "places": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/darrans/darran-mountains/mt-te-wera/south-east-face", "name": "South East Face", "altitude": null, "access": null, "description": "South East Face of Te Wera", "latlng": null, "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/fiordland/darran-mountains/mt-te-wera/south-east-face/mcfarlane-pasco", "name": "Mcfarlane Pasco", "grade": null, "topo_ref": "1", "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "A five pitch route on the far left of the face, exiting onto the South Ridge." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Hamish Mcfarlane, Leon Pasco, 1980" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/fiordland/darran-mountains/mt-te-wera/south-east-face/jacobs-jones", "name": "Jacobs Jones", "grade": null, "topo_ref": "2", "image": null, "images": [], "length": "300m", "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": "300m", "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "Start up a prominent gut accessible from a long snow ramp. This gut, sometimes narrowing to a chimney, is followed to the summit. The route exits just south-west of the summit." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Harold Jacobs, Murray Jones, February 1969" } ], "places": [], "image": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/wide/public/image/Te-Wera-SE-Face.jpg?itok=Gfek2LIB", "images": [ { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/wide/public/image/Te-Wera-SE-Face.jpg?itok=Gfek2LIB", "height": "426", "width": "640" } ] }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/darrans/darran-mountains/mt-te-wera/south-west-face", "name": "South West Face", "altitude": null, "access": null, "description": "A relatively small face, with good rock. Descent via the South or North Ridge.", "latlng": null, "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/fiordland/darran-mountains/mt-te-wera/south-west-face/original-line", "name": "Original Line", "grade": null, "topo_ref": "1", "image": null, "images": [], "length": "200m", "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": "200m", "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "Start in the centre of the face and climb a prominent crack, slanting left to finish up a loose gully, emerging high on the West Ridge. Technical climbing with some sections of aid." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Harold Jacobs, Ralph Miller, February 1970" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/fiordland/darran-mountains/mt-te-wera/south-west-face/nature-identical-dave", "name": "Nature Identical Dave", "grade": "22,II", "topo_ref": "2", "image": null, "images": [], "length": "220m", "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": "II", "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": "55m", "bolts": null, "trad": true, "ewbank": "22", "description": "Start in the centre of the face and climb just left of the overhangs." }, { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": "55m", "bolts": null, "trad": true, "ewbank": "18", "description": "The groove is steep and exciting bridging." }, { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": "55m", "bolts": null, "trad": true, "ewbank": "13", "description": "Head a little left, onto a slight buttress." }, { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": "55m", "bolts": null, "trad": true, "ewbank": "17", "description": "Good climbing in a crack and groove system takes you around the left end of the big overhangs and up to join the top of the South Ridge." } ], "quality": 1, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": true, "description": null, "ascent": "Bruce Dowrick, Rich Thomson, Rich Turner, February 2010" } ], "places": [], "image": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/wide/public/image/Te-Wera-SW-Face_0.jpg?itok=8BQF4cre", "images": [ { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/wide/public/image/Te-Wera-SW-Face_0.jpg?itok=8BQF4cre", "height": "480", "width": "640" } ] } ], "image": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/wide/public/image/Darrans-Te-Wera-2011.jpeg?itok=QAH6W4nf", "images": [ { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/wide/public/image/Darrans-Te-Wera-2011.jpeg?itok=QAH6W4nf", "height": "818", "width": "1090" } ] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/canterbury/two-thumb-range/mt-caton": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/canterbury/two-thumb-range/mt-caton", "name": "Mt Caton", "altitude": "2309m", "access": null, "description": "tba", "latlng": [ "-43.612714", "170.741014" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/canterbury/two-thumb-range/mt-caton/north-ridge", "name": "North Ridge", "grade": "1", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "1", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "Make a rocky ridge scramble to the summit from either of the two cols to the north. Pinnacles\r\ncan be passed on either side of the ridge." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": null }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/canterbury/two-thumb-range/mt-caton/west-face", "name": "West Face", "grade": "1", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "1", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "Follow scree and snow-grass through small rock bluffs to reach the high basin immediately west\r\nof Mt Caton, and pick a route through blocky, rocky terrain to the top." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": null }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/canterbury/two-thumb-range/mt-caton/south-west-ridge", "name": "South West Ridge", "grade": "1", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "1", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "This is a scree walk to the summit, reached as part of a ridge traverse or via scrambling through\r\nsmall, loose, rocky bluffs directly up from Two Thumb Stream." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": null }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/canterbury/two-thumb-range/mt-caton/north-ridge-0", "name": "North Ridge", "grade": "1", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "1", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "A straightforward climb from Black Birch Creek. Alternatively, cross onto the western slopes\r\nand follow these to the summit." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Probably climbed by early shepherds and runholders, but also Peter Bain, Neil Payne," } ], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/otago/the-remarkables/double-cone": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/otago/the-remarkables/double-cone", "name": "Double Cone", "altitude": "2307m", "access": null, "description": "tba", "latlng": [ "-45.07172774", "168.80689406" ], "routes": [], "places": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/otago/the-remarkables/double-cone/west-face", "name": "West Face", "altitude": null, "access": "Access via Queens Drive in ok snow conditions 1 hr 30 mins, can take longer with deep snow. Alternate access around the SF of Single Cone approx 1.5-2 hours. It is also possible to rap down from the Heli pad at the start of the Grand Traverse", "description": "Great ice and mixed routes on the west face.", "latlng": [ "-45.07109601", "168.80544662" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/otago/the-remarkables/double-cone/west-face/return-king", "name": "The Return of the King", "grade": "M3", "topo_ref": "79", "image": null, "images": [], "length": "300m", "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": "M3", "length": "300m", "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "6 Pitches. Start on the far LHS of the face then\r\nhead up and right via easy ramps and several short mixed\r\nsteps before finishing between the two summits of Double\r\nCone." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Dave Bolger, Rupert Gardiner, 2005." }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/otago/the-remarkables/double-cone/west-face/alpine-deluxe", "name": "Alpine Deluxe", "grade": "M4", "topo_ref": "80", "image": null, "images": [], "length": "200m", "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": "M4", "length": "200m", "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "M4+. 6 pitches. Start up a left facing\r\ncorner then tend right via mixed\r\nground. Move up and over a rock\r\nstep before heading right for the\r\nsame finish as TRotK" } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Jon Taylor, Andy Eccleshall. 2000." }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/otago/the-remarkables/double-cone/west-face/final-frontier", "name": "The Final Frontier", "grade": null, "topo_ref": "81", "image": null, "images": [], "length": "300m", "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": "300m", "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "WI4+. Mostly climbed on snow and ice up low angle rock slabs. When reaching the final snowfield beneath the summit headwall, move rightwards over the rock spine towards the top of the Petit Couloir." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Steve Carr, Andy Macfarlane, 2000." }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/otago/the-remarkables/double-cone/west-face/pig-route", "name": "Pig route", "grade": "M5", "topo_ref": "82", "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": "M5", "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": true, "ewbank": null, "description": "Above The Final Frontier.\r\nGreat crack and corner systems lead\r\nto the first summit of Double Cone." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": true, "description": "A direct finish up corners in the headwall is a quality way to finish the face. Fun, well protected climbing. M4-M5", "ascent": null }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/otago/the-remarkables/double-cone/west-face/sumo-wrestling", "name": "Sumo Wrestling", "grade": "M6", "topo_ref": "83", "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": "M6", "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "8 pitches. Begin up a right\r\nleaning gully then move left into a\r\ncorner system. Follow this towards\r\nthe ridge on the right until you meet\r\nthe top of pitch four on Consolation\r\nPrize. From here move left across\r\neasy snow and mixed slopes before\r\ndoglegging back right to finish\r\non the left hand side of the Double\r\nCone Summit. See the Queenstown\r\nClimbing Club - Queenstown Rock,\r\nIce & Mixed guidebook for a pitch by\r\npitch description of the route. And\r\nlook out for some abandoned booty\r\non the second pitch from a previous\r\nabandoned second ascent attempt.\r\nThe first three pitches were initially\r\nclimbed in summer by Julian White\r\nand went at grade 17." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Aaron Ford, Rupert Gardiner, 2008." }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/otago/the-remarkables/double-cone/west-face/perfect-summers-evening", "name": "A Perfect Summers Evening", "grade": "18", "topo_ref": "84", "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": "18", "description": "3 Pitches. The crack system right of\r\nSumo with bolted abseil stations." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Al Uren, Steve Moffit." }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/otago/the-remarkables/double-cone/west-face/consolation-prize", "name": "Consolation Prize", "grade": "M6", "topo_ref": "85", "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": "M6", "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": true, "ewbank": null, "description": "Start at a crack/corner system directly between Sumo\r\nand Ikon. You will see two cracks that lead up to the\r\nsame chimney. Consolation prize started up the right\r\nhand crack then moved left into the chimney to exit\r\nonto the approach ramp of Ikon. Six full rope lengths of\r\nsustained climbing at grade M6, until the angle relents\r\nfor the last 40m which go at M4. Carry a full rack of\r\ngear from small pitons through to #4 Camalot. The line\r\nis very straight and direct with only a slight deviating\r\nzig zag on the second to last pitch, which starts up right\r\nthen cuts left around a rock pinnacle. The summer rock\r\nclimb Breaking in Brett goes direct through this pinnacle.\r\nYou could do this in winter but the climbing is run out\r\nand a fall from the top of the pinnacle would likely result\r\nin a ground fall to the ledge below." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": true, "description": null, "ascent": "Danny Murphy, Craig Jefferies, Daniel Joll, 2011." }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/otago/the-remarkables/double-cone/west-face/breaking-brett", "name": "Breaking in Brett", "grade": "19", "topo_ref": "86", "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": true, "ewbank": "19", "description": "8 pitches. Start directly under the large overhanging roof system right of Consolation Prize. Up nice hand and finger cracks to the base of a wide off width. From here the route moves left under a roof for an excellent slab pitch of grade 19. Small Camalots and wires under a couple of loose flakes protect the initial moves, then move onto well protected excellent rock and traverse around the overhanging roofs to exit approximately10m higher on the Ikon approach ledge than the first pitch of Consolation Prize. From here move up and right aiming for the nice finger crack near to the ar\u00eate." }, { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": true, "ewbank": null, "description": "Pitch 4 is the same as pitch 3 for Consolation Prize." }, { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "Pitch 5 takes the left hand slab. Climb this until gear, or nerves, run out then move right into the easy corner, which is followed to a belay stance on a ledge - where you should see the great looking crack system of pitch 6." }, { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": true, "ewbank": null, "description": "Climb this corner system starting on the left hand side. Consolation Prize took the right hand turf filled crack and exited up and left. Breaking in Brett exits up and right to a ledge. From here continue up easy loose rock to the base of the pinnacle pitch. Climb to the half banged in piton (leave it in place) and traverse left to place a #1 Camalot then run it out to the top. Be careful not to fall off through this section. You can avoid this pitch by traversing left around the triangle; however it\u2019s a good one if you feel comfortable on run out grade 18." }, { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "From here, climb straight up and you should see the last pitch going up through a small roof. Climb this then follow the ar\u00eate direct to the summit of Double Cone." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": true, "description": null, "ascent": "Brett Gilmore, Daniel Joll, 2011." }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/otago/the-remarkables/double-cone/west-face/ikon", "name": "Ikon", "grade": "M6", "topo_ref": "87", "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": "M6", "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "8 pitches. Start as per Sumo then\r\nhead up two pitches on a right leaning\r\nramp. From here start up an nice\r\ncorner system for four pitches before\r\ntending right and exiting up easier\r\nground to the right hand side of the\r\nmain Double Cone Summit." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Rupert Gardiner, Aaron Ford, 2007." }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/otago/the-remarkables/double-cone/west-face/open-project", "name": "Open Project", "grade": null, "topo_ref": "88", "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": true, "ewbank": null, "description": "Direct start to Ikon linking into the\r\ntop of pitch two. Around 70m of\r\nsteep cracks which look to be solid\r\nM6 or M7 climbing. Start as for BIB.\r\nAfter pitch one head up the wide wet\r\ncrack system on loose rock. This\r\nshould take you through the roof section\r\nonto better rock and the base of\r\nthe hard climbing on Ikon. Looks like\r\nthe corner will freeze in winter and\r\nwill probably need a #5 Camalot to\r\nprotect. Two #4s were used for the\r\nbelay at the base of the wide corner.\r\nA bail wire and snap lock await\r\nthe successful team part way up this\r\npitch." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": true, "description": null, "ascent": null }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/otago/the-remarkables/double-cone/west-face/open-project-0", "name": "Open Project", "grade": null, "topo_ref": "89", "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "Direct start linking to pitch 5 of Ikon." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": null }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/otago/the-remarkables/double-cone/west-face/naturalization", "name": "Naturalization", "grade": "M5", "topo_ref": "91", "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": "M5", "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "Climbs the right hand side of the obvious buttress that guards the base of the West face. Four pitches of rock and mixed climbing leads to the upper, fun pitches of Sumo. On the first ascent rock shoes were used on the first pitches and once the lip of the buttress was turned, alpine boots came back on." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": "P1: Climbs an obvious, red, left facing corner. This pitch is almost a full\n70m to a proper ledge belay.\nP2: Climbs the leftmost of the double crack system, exiting to the left. A\nstellar pitch!\nP3: Climbs slabs to below the overhanging chimney.\nP4: Thrash through the overhanging chimney And try not to tear the clothes off your flesh and flesh off you bones. Pull through the chimney onto ice and easier ground.\nP5: Continue almost straight up aiming for the left facing corner that is\nSumo.\nP6-8: as for Sumo.", "ascent": "Steve Skelton, Graham Johnson, Aug 2014" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/otago/the-remarkables/double-cone/west-face/naturalization-alternate-start", "name": "Naturalization Alternate Start", "grade": "M4", "topo_ref": "91a", "image": null, "images": [], "length": "80m", "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": "M4", "length": "40m", "bolts": null, "trad": true, "ewbank": null, "description": "Follow the right tending corner to the base of the overhanging offwidth crack (currently unclimbed)" }, { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": "M5", "length": "40m", "bolts": null, "trad": true, "ewbank": null, "description": "Move up and right via loose blocks and some airy traverse moves to reach the belay at the top of Naturalizations second pitch. This pitch is not recogmended due to the loose rock. Naturalization regular start is the better way to go. Unless you want to climb the overhanging offwidth crack that hangs above pitch one." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": true, "description": null, "ascent": "Daniel Joll, Steve Fortune, 2015" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/otago/the-remarkables/double-cone/west-face/dairy-life", "name": "Dairy for Life", "grade": "20", "topo_ref": null, "image": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/route/unnamed%20%289%29.jpg?itok=PrKEpslF", "images": [ { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/route/unnamed%20%289%29.jpg?itok=PrKEpslF", "height": "325", "width": "244" }, { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/route/unnamed%20%286%29.jpg?itok=g7rPqteP", "height": "325", "width": "244" }, { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/route/unnamed%20%2810%29.jpg?itok=nyUSQGwt", "height": "325", "width": "244" } ], "length": "315m", "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": "35m", "bolts": null, "trad": true, "ewbank": "18", "description": "Start up twin cracks crossing a crux bulge at half height. Trend right over slab to DBA at detached boulder." }, { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": "25m", "bolts": null, "trad": true, "ewbank": "20", "description": "Awkward mantle onto boulder, then commit to crux jams through overhang then up easy crack to belay on ledge." }, { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": "50m", "bolts": null, "trad": true, "ewbank": "17", "description": "Fun climbing up corner crack then place gear high and traverse right on slab under roof. Climb slab to right of roof to belay on ledge just right of large detached block." }, { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": "45m", "bolts": null, "trad": true, "ewbank": "16", "description": "Climb slab on small holds to right facing layback crack. Make hand traverse 8m right and up easy crack to belay on ledge." }, { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": "40m", "bolts": null, "trad": true, "ewbank": "17", "description": "Mainly easy climbing up wide crack with short crux at start - crank through overhanging horn. Belay on ledge." }, { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": "60m", "bolts": null, "trad": true, "ewbank": "18", "description": "Mainly low grade climbing/scrambling with a grade 18 roof. Watch rope drag. Belay on ledge." }, { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": "60m", "bolts": null, "trad": true, "ewbank": null, "description": "Easy climbing/scrambling to ridge just right of the South Summit of Double Cone. Suits soloing/simul-climbing. Last 4m to summit is easy but steep climbing with some loose blocks and is worth roping up for as a fall here would spoil your day (possibly same exit as Ikon?)." } ], "quality": 1, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": true, "description": "Starts 20m left of Old Guard on top of scree ledges. Six pitches of climbing with 100m of scrambling direct to the summit of South Peak of Double Cone.\nFull rack of trad gear needed and small gear including RPs is useful. Cams up to BD4.", "ascent": "Dean Dunning, Matt Wilkinson, 2 January 2016" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/otago/the-remarkables/double-cone/west-face/old-guard", "name": "Old Guard", "grade": "M5", "topo_ref": "92", "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": "M5", "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "Starting up the first obvious snow gully right of the buttress that forms the foot of the west face, this route weaves its way through some daunting territory with four solid, engaging and fun mixed pitches. It's quite feasible to solo the first pitch or two before the real climbing starts." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": "P1: Climb the moderate gully, passing what is likely to be to only ice on the\nclimb.\nP2: Continue up the gully to a broad snow slope that extends to the left\ntowards Naturalization. There is some new route potential to the left, above\nthis snow slope.\nP3: Blast through the thin cracks that stay just left of the arete. Some\ntechnical foot work required. A short pitch.\nP4: Up for a few meters until the cracks fuse and force you out left. Slab\nacross a bottomless ledge to the next crack system and continue as far as\nyour rope will carry you.\nP5: A long pitch with a double crux. Climb right tending, overhang crack off\nthe belay to slabs. Continue up and right towards and overhanging corner with\na large chockstone.\nP6-8: Finish as for Sumo", "ascent": "Danny Murphy, Steve Skelton, Aug 2015" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/otago/the-remarkables/double-cone/west-face/chasing-shadows", "name": "Chasing Shadows", "grade": "M5", "topo_ref": "90", "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": "M5", "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "5 pitches. Starts up a large snow gully for approximately\r\n100m to where real climbing begins. Follow slabs\r\ninitially then follow more featured mixed ground before\r\ntraversing left to top out south of the summit of Double\r\nCone." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Andy Mills, Rupert Gardiner, 2006." }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/otago/the-remarkables/double-cone/west-face/triple-cone-traverse", "name": "Triple Cone Traverse", "grade": "3,M3", "topo_ref": "93", "image": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/routes/Screen%20Shot%202023-06-11%20at%202.03.18%20PM.png?itok=UcOjc2re", "images": [ { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/routes/Screen%20Shot%202023-06-11%20at%202.03.18%20PM.png?itok=UcOjc2re", "height": "215", "width": "325" } ], "length": "1000m", "pitches": [ { "alpine": "3", "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": "M3", "length": "1000m", "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": null } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": "A fun, moderate tour of the West Face, this alpine route follows a distinct weakness which ramps diagonally across the face in a north to south direction. It\u2019s a good introduction to the west faces of both Double and Single Cone, providing easy access to the upper pitches of any of the routes on the faces. The route traverses almost 1 kilometre across the face and ascends about 250m of vertical. There is significant exposure above some moves, especially above Double Cone\u2019s lower rock band. Roped simul-climbing technique is ideal to cover the moderate ground in relative safety.\nConditions on the face will dictate its difficulty. If snow is well consolidated the climbing can be moderate, with lots of 45 -70 degree snow slope traversing and few easy (M1) moves through rock bands (aside from the Martyr exit). However in some conditions, such as powder snow on rock, the traverse may be a little more difficult.\nThe route starts at the southern end of the main rock band which guards the base of the west face. The base of the angling ramp should be obvious, and can be seen from Queenstown. The ramp traverses right (south) above the lower rock band, traversing across the gullies and ridgelines of Double Cone\u2019s West Face. When in doubt, usually go low. At the far end of Double Cone\u2019s southwest ridge (Chasing Shadows) the west face of Singe Cone and its broad snow fields comes into view. From here, (see alternative finish) drop down approximately 20m in elevation and continue south, just under the steeper terrain of the face\u2019s upper rock band. The ramp continues to the ridge which separates Single Cone\u2019s west and south face, and just before this ridge is a legible right tending corner which is the last pitch of Martyr. This pitch is a fun, well protected, 60m pitch with a couple of M3 moves. Descent may require a single rap off Singe Cone\u2019s east face.\nAlternative Finish: A perhaps easier finish and shortened version of the route would be to not continue the traverse across the west face of Singe Cone and instead, ascend the snow slopes to the grand col, which is reportedly less technical than Martyr exit.", "ascent": "Steve Skelton, Craig Jeffries 10 June 2023" } ], "places": [], "image": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/wide/public/image/Double%20Cone_1_0.jpg?itok=wBNoLlKq", "images": [ { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/wide/public/image/Double%20Cone_1_0.jpg?itok=wBNoLlKq", "height": "516", "width": "835" }, { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/image/Start%20of%20double%20cone%20west%20face.jpg?itok=m-gmbdMP", "height": "244", "width": "325" } ] }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/otago/the-remarkables/double-cone/east-buttress-double-cone", "name": "East Buttress Double Cone", "altitude": null, "access": null, "description": "The east side routes, up and left of Lake Alta Slabs", "latlng": null, "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/otago/the-remarkables/double-cone/east-buttress-double-cone/michael-baker-memorial-route", "name": "The Michael Baker Memorial Route", "grade": "10", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": "10", "description": null } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Mike Dunn, Martin Hawes, summer of 2012/13" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/otago/the-remarkables/double-cone/east-buttress-double-cone/one-more-route-she-gets-home", "name": "One More Route Before She Gets Home", "grade": "14", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": "14", "description": null } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Martin Hawes, Derek Chinn, summer 2012/13" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/otago/the-remarkables/double-cone/east-buttress-double-cone/my-kingdom-horse", "name": "My Kingdom for a Horse", "grade": "13", "topo_ref": null, "image": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/route/Martin%20on%20My%20Kingdom%20For%20A%20Horse.jpg?itok=FhBo81Rk", "images": [ { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/route/Martin%20on%20My%20Kingdom%20For%20A%20Horse.jpg?itok=FhBo81Rk", "height": "244", "width": "325" } ], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": true, "ewbank": "13", "description": null } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": true, "description": null, "ascent": "Martin Hawes, Derek Chinn, summer 2012/13" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/otago/the-remarkables/double-cone/east-buttress-double-cone/whirrlies", "name": "The Whirrlies", "grade": "M4", "topo_ref": null, "image": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/route/double-cone.jpg?itok=7SfFsEzy", "images": [ { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/route/double-cone.jpg?itok=7SfFsEzy", "height": "244", "width": "325" } ], "length": "255m", "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": "M4", "length": "60m", "bolts": null, "trad": true, "ewbank": null, "description": "Start up short left-leaning ramp then slightly right into obvious steeper turfy corner system" }, { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": "45m", "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "Up obvious gully and belay at base of short chimney" }, { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": "50m", "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "Shallow mixed corner that is harder than it looks, then traverse left across slab and up steeper mixed step. Repeat slab traverse and up past the top of an ice step to a snow slope. Crux pitch." }, { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": "50m", "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "Cross snow covered slab then up shallow corner and right around block and into more shallow corner with snowfield above" }, { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": "50m", "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "Continue up snowfield, trending left to finish at rap station near the the top of the Petit Couloir" } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": true, "description": "Starts up obvious short left-leaning ramp in-between M\u0101ori Alphabet and the\nPetit Couloir. Follow obvious corner and gully systems then traverse slightly\nleft to avoid rock overhangs to then top out at tat rap station near top of\nPetit Couloir or you could top out on summit of Double Cone. In memory of\nCalum Hudson.", "ascent": "Matt Wilkinson, Lincoln Quilliam, 14 August 2015" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/otago/the-remarkables/double-cone/east-buttress-double-cone/whirrlies-direct", "name": "The Whirrlies Direct", "grade": "WI4,M3", "topo_ref": "The Whirrlies Direct", "image": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/routes/P1020519.JPG?itok=AaFtpCLV", "images": [ { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/routes/P1020519.JPG?itok=AaFtpCLV", "height": "244", "width": "325" } ], "length": "50m", "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": "M3", "length": "50m", "bolts": null, "trad": true, "ewbank": null, "description": "gain icy gully system from the left." }, { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": "M4", "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "up tricky slab to ledge at base of pillar" }, { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": "WI4", "mixed": "M5", "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "cool pillar with good crack/rock pro on RHS" } ], "quality": 1, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": true, "description": "A hanging ice pillar over a small overhang to the right of the Whirrlies. Was abseiled after 3 pitches, but could continue to summit on easier ground.", "ascent": "Edwin Sheppard, Jonno Clarke, Steven Fortune Aug 2019" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/otago/the-remarkables/double-cone/east-buttress-double-cone/alta-vista", "name": "Alta Vista", "grade": "17", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": "17", "description": "100 metres left of DB Eh?." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Guillaume Charton,. Estelle Poiron, Waitangi Day 2013" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/otago/the-remarkables/double-cone/east-buttress-double-cone/medias-res", "name": "In Medias Res", "grade": "M4", "topo_ref": "IMR", "image": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/routes/EastButtressDoubleConeLeft.jpg?itok=s8KdS1tW", "images": [ { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/routes/EastButtressDoubleConeLeft.jpg?itok=s8KdS1tW", "height": "178", "width": "325" }, { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/routes/228987594_4125971984182746_4251458356187270112_n.jpg?itok=lG7sXN9R", "height": "325", "width": "183" }, { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/routes/231746571_4125972004182744_680408603795540979_n.jpg?itok=V8JAkIgt", "height": "325", "width": "183" } ], "length": "180m", "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": "M4", "length": "60m", "bolts": null, "trad": true, "ewbank": null, "description": "A turfy groove up ramp, to reach good belay at edge of large corner system." }, { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": "M4", "length": "40m", "bolts": null, "trad": true, "ewbank": null, "description": "Up large corner to base of chimney." }, { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": "M5", "length": "40m", "bolts": null, "trad": true, "ewbank": null, "description": "Up wild chimney and roof to ice. Intimidating, but easier than it looks!" }, { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": "M5", "length": "40m", "bolts": null, "trad": true, "ewbank": null, "description": "A short, steep corner, followed by icy chimney, finishing on easier snow slopes." } ], "quality": 3, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": true, "description": "Takes the ramp on left side of the steep wall guarding the left side East Buttress of double cone, then breaches this steep wall by a steep chimney.\nOn FA, climbed 4 pitches to easy snow, then abseiled (2x55m diagonal into whirlies), but can continue up easier ground to summit or petit couloir.\n1 #5 camalot useful but not essential", "ascent": "Steven Fortune, Reg Measures, Ben Mangan, Aug 2021. Climbed 4 pitches and rapped into Whirlies" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/otago/the-remarkables/double-cone/east-buttress-double-cone/fs-crack", "name": "FS Crack", "grade": "21", "topo_ref": "FSC", "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": true, "ewbank": "21", "description": "Steep left angling crack left of Pull Me a Pilsner." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": true, "description": null, "ascent": "Mark Woodward, Tim O'Leary, 1997" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/otago/remarkables/double-cone/east-buttress-double-cone/pull-me-pilsner-direct", "name": "Pull Me a Pilsner Direct", "grade": "WI4,M6", "topo_ref": "Lake Alta", "image": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/route/20160604_093249%20copy_0.jpg?itok=xB0Y2nR5", "images": [ { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/route/20160604_093249%20copy_0.jpg?itok=xB0Y2nR5", "height": "325", "width": "244" }, { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/route/IMG_3317%20%281%29_0.jpg?itok=7nkvIKYo", "height": "325", "width": "217" } ], "length": "115m", "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": "M6", "length": "20m", "bolts": null, "trad": true, "ewbank": null, "description": "A steep icy corner all on natural pro. Pull over the lip onto a small shelf on the right, then up a few more icy metres to a bolt belay on a blocky stance. Stop here to avoid rope drag that would occur if you try to combine pitches 1 and 2, and so you can hear your climbing partner. If pitch 1 has a large hanging dagger in the middle you may need to climb up and clean off the dagger which will make the grade feel a bit \r\nharder!" }, { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": "M4", "length": "20m", "bolts": null, "trad": true, "ewbank": null, "description": "Vertical corner and small bulge that is turned on the left, rock pro and ice screws if fat. Gain the snowy terrace and bolt belay at base of next left facing corner/crack on right wall." }, { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": "WI4", "mixed": "M5", "length": "35m", "bolts": "6", "trad": true, "ewbank": null, "description": "Climb tricky corner/crack to gain turf and hopefully ice, good rock pro. Once the turf is reached there are bolts on the right wall, which makes it possible/sane to climb this pitch in thin, dry or warm conditions. The ice chandelier gets seriously sun baked and rotten, but utilising the bolts it has been climbed in these conditions with full sun on the ice. The first ascentionists feel it is reasonably safe, however it would be scary as hell if it did collapse." }, { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": "M3", "length": "20m", "bolts": null, "trad": true, "ewbank": null, "description": "Easy turf corner up the slab, trending slightly left. Can link with pitch 5 for 55m pitch, or stop at intermediate belay below chimney." }, { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": "M5", "length": "20m", "bolts": null, "trad": true, "ewbank": null, "description": "Chimney / corner to hanging ice, if dry/thin finish up left wall onto arete, then up and right to bolt anchor. if really fat conditions the V-groove with icicle might be a better option. Be careful where your rope runs over the sharp edge when rapping off this anchor." } ], "quality": 3, "bolts": "6", "natural_pro": true, "description": "The direct start is left of the DB Eh buttress. If you're not keen to thrash and dangle on the direct, the original start is a good alternative although it misses two of the best pitches on the route. Climb the access route to the left of Altered States until level with the snow ledge at the bottom of pitch 3. There is a rock slab pitch (M4?) to traversed, thin scratchy dry tooling but well protected with wires.\nMost pitches will feel easier with more, rather than less ice.\nDespite there being bolts, take a full rock rack. Double cams from purple .5 camalot - 3 camalot, singles 00 - .4 plus one number 4. , 10 quick draws extenders are useful, and 3 short ice screws would be advisable. single set of nuts - #8 including some small ones. Mostly small wires with the occasional medium sized wire.\nDescent: Can top out to summit of Double cone on easier ground, or abseil route on bolt anchors. Can descend the route with one 60m rope. All raps 30m or less. The Pilsner pitch rap (pitch 3) is a rope stretcher so keep knots in for that one!. All raps are on double bolt belays.", "ascent": "Allan Uren, Steve Moffat, Adrian Camm (original start plus pitch 3);" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/otago/the-remarkables/double-cone/east-buttress-double-cone/stumpy-stout", "name": "Stumpy Stout", "grade": "M7", "topo_ref": null, "image": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/route/P1130616.JPG?itok=oMc7V8J1", "images": [ { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/route/P1130616.JPG?itok=oMc7V8J1", "height": "244", "width": "325" } ], "length": "30m", "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": "M7", "length": "30m", "bolts": null, "trad": true, "ewbank": null, "description": "The thin seam on the wall to the right of Pull me a Pilsner Direct Start. Pitch 1, Take double cams Green C3, red c3 single .3&.4c4 One set regular wires one set of offsets are handy up to #6. One #2 camalot for the start of the route. Pitch 2, regular set of cams up to #2 camalot." } ], "quality": 3, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": true, "description": "When a Pilsner is not enough. This alternate start to Pull me a Pilsner is\nan excellent variation for those wanting to add a bit of difficulty to their\ndays climbing. Alternatively climb it as a single pitch route after\nfinishing Pull Me Pilsner. There is a double bolt belay at the end of the\n12m long overhanging seam.\nWhen standing at the base of Pull Me A Pilsner look to your right and you\nwill see the overhanging seam heading up to an arete. M7 12m\nFrom the first belay continue up the crack to a stance, then continue this\ncrack line on the right of the arete stepping further right at the end of the\ncrack to top out onto the ledge and second pitch belay of Pull Me A Pilsner.\n18m. M4-5 Double bolt chain belay.", "ascent": "Daniel Joll, Steve Fortune August 2016" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/otago/the-remarkables/double-cone/east-buttress-double-cone/maori-alphabet", "name": "Maori Alphabet", "grade": "17", "topo_ref": null, "image": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/route/Maori%20Alphabet.jpg?itok=7_gSKzXs", "images": [ { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/route/Maori%20Alphabet.jpg?itok=7_gSKzXs", "height": "325", "width": "314" } ], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": "17", "description": null } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Calum Hudson, Kim Logan, Rob Turner, January 1986" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/otago/the-remarkables/double-cone/east-buttress-double-cone/champagne-supernova", "name": "Champagne Supernova", "grade": "M5", "topo_ref": "CS", "image": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/routes/champagne2.jpg?itok=59e35v43", "images": [ { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/routes/champagne2.jpg?itok=59e35v43", "height": "171", "width": "325" }, { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/routes/20200811_152222.jpg?itok=h8OeGjEC", "height": "183", "width": "325" } ], "length": "212m", "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": "M5", "length": "35m", "bolts": null, "trad": true, "ewbank": null, "description": "Start up slabby cracks in base of buttress between Pull me a Pilsner and Alta Ice routes, into left facing corner. Traverse left under roof and belay" }, { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": "M5", "length": "35m", "bolts": null, "trad": true, "ewbank": null, "description": "Step right over lip of overhang with cool face moves to gain next corner system. Climb turf to snow ledge and traverse left to base of prominent corner." }, { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": "M5", "length": "30m", "bolts": "3", "trad": true, "ewbank": null, "description": "Climb the prominent left facing corner! Shares P2 of Maori Alphabet. Step right on ledge to belay below another left facing corner." }, { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": "M5", "length": "42m", "bolts": null, "trad": true, "ewbank": null, "description": "A superb pitch up steep corner. A great pick seam and gear. Strep right around arete when crack disappears, then back into corner." }, { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": "M6", "length": "25m", "bolts": null, "trad": true, "ewbank": null, "description": "Offwidth up short roof, belay at base of right facing turfy corner." }, { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": "M4", "length": "45m", "bolts": null, "trad": true, "ewbank": null, "description": "Up turfy right facing corner to snowfield." } ], "quality": 3, "bolts": "3", "natural_pro": true, "description": "A superb natural line up left facing corners on the right side of the face, right of Pull me a Pilsner.\n6 technical pitches, then easier ground to summit, or traverse to Pull me a Pilsner abseil line.\nCan be climbed in lean conditions, but requires turf to be frozen.\nSet of wires, single #4 and #3 camalot, doubles of cams up to that.", "ascent": "Steven Fortune and James Hobson 11 August 2020" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/otago/the-remarkables/double-cone/east-buttress-double-cone/sup-dig-snygg", "name": "Sup Dig Snygg", "grade": "M4, WI3, Turf3", "topo_ref": "SDS", "image": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/routes/SupDigSnygg.jpg?itok=XOwspxan", "images": [ { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/routes/SupDigSnygg.jpg?itok=XOwspxan", "height": "325", "width": "244" }, { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/routes/298165315_3322185261393365_6735908928453404203_n.jpg?itok=8L8reHb_", "height": "325", "width": "244" }, { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/routes/SDS_lower.jpg?itok=CedK5Bjk", "height": "325", "width": "231" } ], "length": null, "pitches": [], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": "A fun turfy and icy route up the RHS of the East Buttress of Double cone. Climbs a prominent corner above the snow shelf above Alta slabs. Then follow more moderate ground to the summit. Can start by any route on Alta Slabs, but most logical is via pillar that often forms on far LHS of alta ice leading directly into corner.", "ascent": "Mason Gardener, Sophie Jenkins, Steven Fortune, August 2022" } ], "places": [], "image": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/wide/public/image/EastButtressDoubleCone_0.jpg?itok=x2QGyS-S", "images": [ { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/wide/public/image/EastButtressDoubleCone_0.jpg?itok=x2QGyS-S", "height": "818", "width": "1090" }, { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/image/EastButtressDoubleConeLeft_0.jpg?itok=j4BLol7J", "height": "178", "width": "325" }, { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/image/EastButtressDoubleCone_UL2.jpg?itok=Oc1NO86P", "height": "325", "width": "244" } ] } ], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/queenstown/tapuae-o-uenuku-hector-mountains/mt-t%C5%ABwhakar%C5%8Dria": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/queenstown/tapuae-o-uenuku-hector-mountains/mt-t%C5%ABwhakar%C5%8Dria", "name": "Mt T\u016bwhakar\u014dria", "altitude": "2307m", "access": null, "description": "Tapuae-o-uenuku Hector Mountains", "latlng": [ "-45.13987609", "168.8478231" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/queenstown/tapuae-o-uenuku-hector-mountains/mt-t%C5%ABwhakar%C5%8Dria/east-ridge", "name": "East Ridge", "grade": "MC2", "topo_ref": null, "image": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/routes/IMG_2978.JPG?itok=-gIgIIN6", "images": [ { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/routes/IMG_2978.JPG?itok=-gIgIIN6", "height": "102", "width": "325" } ], "length": null, "pitches": [], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": "From Lake Te K\u014dhua head to the saddle between Mt T\u016bwhakar\u014dria and Pt 2178. The East Ridge will take you to a false summit (which is just lower than the true summit). To get to the true summit wrap under the north of the craggy skyline to gain the true summit from the west.\nP.S. My head did not crest the summit. Must have been climbed before.", "ascent": "Steve Skelton, March 2020" } ], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/c58dhau-landsborough/ben-ohau-range/pt-2306": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/c58dhau-landsborough/ben-ohau-range/pt-2306", "name": "Pt 2306", "altitude": "2306m", "access": null, "description": null, "latlng": [ "-43.9233", "170.0271" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/%C5%8Dhau-landsborough/ben-ohau-range/pt-2306/north-slope", "name": "North Slope", "grade": "1,II", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": "1", "commitment": "II", "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": null } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": "A scramble up moderate slopes from the north branch of Whale Stream.", "ascent": "Ian McClymont, Nick Pawson, 1995" } ], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/mt-misery": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/mt-misery", "name": "Mt Misery", "altitude": "2305m", "access": null, "description": null, "latlng": [ "-43.84800915", "170.71747949" ], "routes": [], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/main-divide-of-the-southern-alps/bonds-pk": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/main-divide-of-the-southern-alps/bonds-pk", "name": "Bonds Pk", "altitude": "2304m", "access": null, "description": null, "latlng": [ "-43.16693706", "171.03821592" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/main-divide-of-the-southern-alps/bonds-pk/south-mathias-river", "name": "From South Mathias River", "grade": null, "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "Follow the South Mathias River, climbing scree and snow slopes immediately south of Bonds\r\nPeak. The bluffs are passed without difficulty \u2013 above the bluffs take a long snow slope to the\r\nsummit rocks then up some tricky slabs to the top." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Edith Wallace, Gerry Auton, Nowell Syme, A (Bun) Wicks, December 1950" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/main-divide-of-the-southern-alps/bonds-pk/south-couloir", "name": "South Couloir", "grade": "3", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "3", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "From the north side of the South Mathias River, climb gentle slopes to the base of an obvious\r\ncouloir and follow this almost directly to the summit." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "John Entwisle, John Gaze, 1980" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/main-divide-of-the-southern-alps/bonds-pk/bond-creek", "name": "From Bond Creek", "grade": "1", "topo_ref": "BC", "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "1", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "A small glacier gives easy access from the north. A straightforward scramble follows on rock\r\nand scree." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Austin A Deans, Phil H Willis, R F Fryer, 27 August 1937" } ], "places": [], "image": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/wide/public/image/p259.png?itok=F9mwxDu5", "images": [ { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/wide/public/image/p259.png?itok=F9mwxDu5", "height": "587", "width": "900" } ] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/%C5%8Dhau-landsborough/huxley-range/pt-2303": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/%C5%8Dhau-landsborough/huxley-range/pt-2303", "name": "Pt 2303", "altitude": "2303m", "access": null, "description": null, "latlng": [ "-44.0927782334", "169.653861123" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/%C5%8Dhau-landsborough/huxley-range/pt-2303/north-face", "name": "North Face", "grade": "1", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "1", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": null } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": "Ascent of the north face from the basin on the Hunter Valley side of the\nridge is straightforward.", "ascent": "Peter Dickson, March 1993" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/%C5%8Dhau-landsborough/huxley-range/pt-2303/jersey-bull", "name": "Jersey Bull", "grade": "2", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "2", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": null } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": "From the creek bed near the Jersey Bull, scramble up easy bluffs, and cross\nsmall stream to east. Gain height on rock and via glacier, avoid crevasses\nand angle toward easy gully leading to ridgecrest. Move along ridge with one\npitch over sharp towers leaving rope in place and scramble final 300m to\nsummit.", "ascent": "Ross Cullen, Nicholas Shearer, February 2013" } ], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/canterbury/hall-range/taranaki-pk": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/canterbury/hall-range/taranaki-pk", "name": "Taranaki Pk", "altitude": "2302m", "access": null, "description": null, "latlng": [ "-43.64047845", "170.44137902" ], "routes": [], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/canterbury/rolleston-range/mt-williams": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/canterbury/rolleston-range/mt-williams", "name": "Mt Williams", "altitude": "2300m", "access": null, "description": "Mt Williams is the highest peak in the Rolleston Range and higher than any on the Divide in this area \u2013 its distinctive twin summits are clearly recognisable from the Arrowsmith Range and other points to the south.\nMt Williams may have been first climbed in the 1880s by Arthur Dobson, when he was supervising the construction of a road over Mathias Pass. The earliest recorded ascent was by Nowell Syme in 1949 and the second ascent occurred about one year later, but after that the peak was pretty much left alone until 2003, when it was rediscovered by Christchurch climber Philip Tree. Subsequently the peak has seen an increase in popularity, although these days it is most often attempted from the Wilberforce side.", "latlng": [ "-43.122224", "171.187248" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/canterbury/rolleston-range/mt-williams/original-route", "name": "Original Route", "grade": null, "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "The first recorded ascent was made from Moraine Hut via grassy sidles and snow slopes. It was\r\nmost likely climbed by the small glacier between the two summits and from there to the top." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Nowell Syme, December 1949" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/canterbury/rolleston-range/mt-williams/moa-stream", "name": "From Moa Stream", "grade": "2", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "2", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "From the head of Moa Stream climb to the saddle just north of Pt 2054 metres. The tussock rib\r\non the left of the couloir sometimes provides the best route to the saddle. Cross the glacier on\r\nthe south-west face of Mt Williams and head up, aiming for the col between the twin peaks of\r\nMt Williams. Access to the col may be complicated by a schrund. From here, move slightly out\r\non to the north-west face and climb loose rock to the summit." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Philip Tree, Jeff Hall, Honora Renwick, February 2003" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/canterbury/rolleston-range/mt-williams/north-east-ridge", "name": "North East Ridge", "grade": "2+", "topo_ref": null, "image": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/routes/IMG_4219.JPG?itok=phcIcA1t", "images": [ { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/routes/IMG_4219.JPG?itok=phcIcA1t", "height": "140", "width": "325" } ], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "2+", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "A long ridge climb that follows the north east ridge between Pt 2096 to the summit of Mt Williams. The ridge is gained by ascending scree slopes and steep vegetated slopes to Pt 1736 from the head of Moa Stream. From here move along the broad Ridge to Pt 2096 and the north east ridge proper. All of the difficulties are encountered in the final 800 - 900 m before the summit of Mt Williams but can generally be sidled on the Appleyard Stream side of the ridge. Descend from the summit to the col between the twin summits and down the glacier as for the \"From Moa Stream\" route. (Note that in summer conditions a rappel is required to descend from the col on to the glacier) Alternatively descend loose rock down the south east ridge." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Jason Marshall, Ryan Nicol. March 2018" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/canterbury/rolleston-range/mt-williams/no-moa-zebras", "name": "No Moa Zebras", "grade": "13,3", "topo_ref": null, "image": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/routes/Mt%20Williams%20Moa%20Stream%20Face%20Topo%20%28No%20Moa%20Zebras%291.jpg?itok=mdjv1mtr", "images": [ { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/routes/Mt%20Williams%20Moa%20Stream%20Face%20Topo%20%28No%20Moa%20Zebras%291.jpg?itok=mdjv1mtr", "height": "325", "width": "244" } ], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "3", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": "13", "description": "A direct route on the south east face from the head of Moa Stream that follows a prominent spur and crosses rock and glaciated slopes to the summit. From the head of Moa Stream, aim for the deeply incised gut in the center of the face climbing a remanent glacier and avalanche debris to gain low angle rock. Scramble up to the second waterfall and climb approximately 100 m of grade 13-14 rock on the true right of the waterfall to a scree covered panel. Climb the scree and follow a series of vegetated ledges up the spur towards the large tower before a large chasm is encountered. Descend into the chasm and climb a single pitch of grade 12, trending to the northern side of the tower. From here climb compact zebra striped rock and snow slopes, trending west toward the summit before climbing loose rock on the last 100 m of the south east ridge. Descent via the south east ridge to the col between Moa Stream and the North Mathias." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Ed Cromwell, Ben Mangan, Keeley Rhynd, Ryan Nicol. February 2019" } ], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aspiring/barrier-range/betty-pk": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aspiring/barrier-range/betty-pk", "name": "Betty Pk", "altitude": "2300m", "access": null, "description": "tba", "latlng": [ "-44.494914", "168.328868" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aspiring/barrier-range/betty-pk/standard-route", "name": "Standard Route", "grade": null, "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "From the saddle below Albert cross steep ice slopes and ascend them to the summit." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": null } ], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/otago/richardson-mountains/mt-larkins": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/otago/richardson-mountains/mt-larkins", "name": "Mt Larkins", "altitude": "2300m", "access": null, "description": "tba", "latlng": [ "-44.87878468", "168.49243366" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/otago/richardson-mountains/mt-larkins/standard-route", "name": "Standard Route", "grade": "I,1", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": "I", "mtcook": "1", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "Mt Larkins can be approached via the Judah Road. Follow the road to above the 900m contour in Bonnie Jean Creek. Continue up the bulldozed track across the northern slopes of Mt Alaska to the head of Larkins Creek and a derelict but habitable scheelite miners hut. There is also a more recent hut, used by skiers, on the slopes of Mt Larkins. Continue up to the end of this steep bulldozed track. Gain a ridge and follow it SE to the west ridge of Mt Larkins, where an ice ace may be required. The west ridge gives a good scramble to the summit. Allow a full day." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": null } ], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/nelson-lakes/st-arnaud-range/mt-mckay": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/nelson-lakes/st-arnaud-range/mt-mckay", "name": "Mt McKay", "altitude": "2300m", "access": null, "description": "St Arnaud Range", "latlng": [ "-42.07525841", "172.72571904" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/nelson-lakes/st-arnaud-range/mt-mckay/north-east-ridge-grade-2", "name": "North East Ridge Grade 2", "grade": "2", "topo_ref": "A", "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": "2", "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "Via Rainbow River. Climb a broad, scrubby ridge from the junction of the north and south branches of the Rainbow, then sidle along a shelf (great campsite) and diagonally up narrow exposed platforms to a col north of the peak. Follow the range to the summit. Beware of avalanches on all slopes." } ], "quality": 1, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": null }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/nelson-lakes/st-arnaud-range/mt-mckay/west-face-north-ridge", "name": "West Face / North Ridge", "grade": "1", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": "1", "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "Without crossing the swingbridge, follow the old track on the true left. From a large boulder at the southern end of the large clearing east-southeast of Mt Franklin, climb through forest to the bushline. Sidle upwards, crossing into a basin with a large tarn. Climb scree towards a col north-east of Mackay (map ref. M30/878040), and along the ridge." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": null }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/nelson-lakes/st-arnaud-range/mt-mckay/south-ridge-grade-2", "name": "South Ridge Grade 2+", "grade": "2", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": "2", "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "A steep ridge rising from the northern pass (see route 6.06) can be bypassed via gullies falling to the source tarn of the East Sabine. Climb a large couloir at the head of the tarn, up a rock step and onto Peak 2180m. Gendarmes on the narrow main ridge to the summit can be sidled or climbed over." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": null } ], "places": [], "image": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/wide/public/image/Screen%20shot%202011-06-29%20at%205.54.12%20PM.jpg?itok=rAQSWMDm", "images": [ { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/wide/public/image/Screen%20shot%202011-06-29%20at%205.54.12%20PM.jpg?itok=rAQSWMDm", "height": "504", "width": "734" } ] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/nelson-lakes/spenser-mountains/mt-una": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/nelson-lakes/spenser-mountains/mt-una", "name": "Mt Una", "altitude": "2300m", "access": null, "description": "A stunning peak as seen from Maling Pass. (Una is the fair young heroine in Spenser\u2019s poem; her name refers to Truth personified). Glacier Gully is a scenic gem, surrounded by steep cirque walls at its head, and in spring much avalanche debris below them.", "latlng": [ "-42.21707753", "172.5857936" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/nelson-lakes/spenser-mountains/mt-una/matakitaki-route", "name": "Matakitaki Route", "grade": "2", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": "2", "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "From the East Matakitaki Hut, follow a blazed track through bush and subalpine scrub, then head south into a large basin. Climb a gully west of the peak (best if snow-covered; exposed rock in summer) to the narrow ridge south of the peak, and scramble to the summit. Alternatively, climb to the North East ridge; a 25m rock step may require a rope. From here there is a spectacular view down the steep 1200m east face into Glacier Gully and the Waiau Valley." } ], "quality": 1, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": null }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/nelson-lakes/spenser-mountains/mt-una/christopher-route", "name": "Christopher Route", "grade": "1", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": "1", "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "A scree saddle west of Una in the head of the West Christopher River gives a route onto the final narrow rock ridge to the summit." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": null } ], "places": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/nelson-lakes/spenser-mountains/mt-una/glacier-gully-routes", "name": "Glacier Gully Routes", "altitude": null, "access": "The stream opens out into a tussock and scree basin. Above the cirque wall is a wide shelf and glacier remnant on the eastern faces of Una and Duessa. Climb a scrubby spur (or the gully on its left) onto the southern end of the shelf. Alternatively, in winter, climb snow gullies and slopes at the head of Glacier Gully onto the northern end of the shelf. From the shelf, there are several options:", "description": "Tributry of Waiau River", "latlng": null, "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/nelson-lakes/spenser-mountains/mt-una/glacier-gully-routes/option-1", "name": "Option 1", "grade": "3", "topo_ref": "1", "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": "3", "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "Climb a couloir onto a col just south-east of Duessa Peak, and traverse this peak onto the south ridge." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": null }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/nelson-lakes/spenser-mountains/mt-una/glacier-gully-routes/option-2", "name": "Option 2", "grade": "3", "topo_ref": "2", "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": "3", "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "Climb directly up the steep south-east face." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": null }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/nelson-lakes/spenser-mountains/mt-una/glacier-gully-routes/option-3", "name": "Option 3", "grade": "3", "topo_ref": "3", "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": "3", "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "From the northern end of the shelf, gain a broad spur (steep at the bottom) which leads north-west and onto the north-east summit ridge. A 25m step on this final ridge may require a rope." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "T Newth, R Husband, Nov. 1938." } ], "places": [], "image": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/wide/public/image/Screen%2520shot%25202011-06-29%2520at%25206.03.36%2520PM%5B1%5D_0.jpg?itok=RycDmAWM", "images": [ { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/wide/public/image/Screen%2520shot%25202011-06-29%2520at%25206.03.36%2520PM%5B1%5D_0.jpg?itok=RycDmAWM", "height": "470", "width": "777" }, { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/image/1-PA280260.JPG?itok=jggw5QNs", "height": "244", "width": "325" } ] } ], "image": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/wide/public/image/1-PA280260_0.JPG?itok=if-EERiK", "images": [ { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/wide/public/image/1-PA280260_0.JPG?itok=if-EERiK", "height": "675", "width": "900" } ] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/c58dhau-landsborough/strachan-range/mathers-pk": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/c58dhau-landsborough/strachan-range/mathers-pk", "name": "Mathers Pk", "altitude": "2299m", "access": null, "description": null, "latlng": [ "-43.78686607", "169.71912169" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/westland/hooker-range/mathers-pk/south-ridge", "name": "South Ridge", "grade": "2,III", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": "0m", "pitches": [ { "alpine": "2", "commitment": "III", "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": null } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": "0", "natural_pro": false, "description": "Climb the big snow couloir from the head of the \u014ctoko River to the broad saddle between Matherson and Dechen. Best approached when there is plenty of snow \u2013 an ice bulge near the top can prove troublesome late in the season. Easy snow slopes east of Mt Matheson lead onto the south ridge and the final rock needle.", "ascent": "Marjorie Edgar-Jones, Gladys Acton-Adams, Frank Alack, Tom Christie, March 1935" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/westland/hooker-range/mathers-pk/north-ridge", "name": "North Ridge", "grade": "2,II", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": "0m", "pitches": [ { "alpine": "2", "commitment": "II", "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": null } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": "0", "natural_pro": false, "description": "Climb out of the head of the Morse River on steep bedrock left behind by the receding Morse Glacier and follow the north ridge to the summit, turning difficulties on the western side.", "ascent": "Nina Dickerhof, James Thornton, January 2016" } ], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/canterbury-westland-alps/main-divide/hidden-pk": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/canterbury-westland-alps/main-divide/hidden-pk", "name": "Hidden Pk", "altitude": "2298m", "access": null, "description": null, "latlng": [ "-43.285953", "170.827017" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/canterbury-westland-alps/main-divide/hidden-pk/south-west-ridge", "name": "South West Ridge", "grade": "1+", "topo_ref": "SW", "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "1+", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "From Heim Plateau gain the col leading to the Malcolm Glacier and make a straightforward\r\ntrudge to the summit." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Doug Jaggers, Ray Husband, Bruce Turner, December 1939" } ], "places": [], "image": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/wide/public/image/Hidden.png?itok=s8f4yFfE", "images": [ { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/wide/public/image/Hidden.png?itok=s8f4yFfE", "height": "774", "width": "900" } ] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/canterbury/arrowsmith-range/hakatere-pk": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/canterbury/arrowsmith-range/hakatere-pk", "name": "Hakatere Pk", "altitude": "2298m", "access": null, "description": "na", "latlng": [ "-43.378415", "170.954733" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/canterbury/arrowsmith-range/hakatere-pk/lawrence-valley", "name": "From Lawrence Valley", "grade": "1+", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "1+", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "About 2 km north of Hermitage Hut follow a north-east trending spur before traversing into\r\na basin between Ashburton and Hakatere Peaks. From here the summits are straightforward\r\nclimbs." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": null }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/canterbury/arrowsmith-range/hakatere-pk/hakatere-valley", "name": "From Hakatere Valley", "grade": "1+", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "1+", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "A grassy trough beside the lateral moraine at the foot of the Ashburton Glacier leads to scree\r\nslopes interspersed with rock bluffs. Climb these to the upper basin lying between Ashburton\r\nand Hakatere Peaks. The summit is separated from the basin by 100 metres of steepish rock and\r\ncan be approached by either a diagonal gully descending from the Ashburton\u2013Hakatere ridge\r\nor by way of the south ridge and easy ledges on the south-east face." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Russell Pearce, P Boag, N Crofts, Murray Harris, October 1960" } ], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki/malte-brun-range/novara-pk": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki/malte-brun-range/novara-pk", "name": "Novara Pk", "altitude": "2298m", "access": "Access to the terraces beneath Novara Peak and Mt Johnson can be found up the slopes beside the Burnett Glacier. Between the Burnett and Lecky glaciers are a number of tussock basins with good campsites, but there are steep walls leading from the terraces down to the river.", "description": null, "latlng": [ "-43.620671", "170.242627" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki/malte-brun-range/novara-pk/south-twin-2298m-east-ridge", "name": "South Twin 2298m - East Ridge", "grade": "1+", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "1+", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "Starting from the Murchison Valley ascend an easy rib to reach the divide a little south of the peak." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "J B Waterhouse, Dec 1985" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki/malte-brun-range/novara-pk/north-twin-2326m-north-east-ridge", "name": "North Twin 2326m - North East Ridge", "grade": "1", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "1", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "From the Burnett Falls ascend the ridge heading directly to the summit." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "J B Waterhouse, Dec 1985" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki/malte-brun-range/novara-pk/standard-route", "name": "Standard Route", "grade": "1+", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "1+", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "Easily climbed from the moraine hollow beside the Tasman Glacier, or else from the junction of the Tasman and Murchison valleys." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Franz & Julius Malcher, Feb 1914." } ], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki/fox-glacier-te-moeka-o-tuawe/pt-2298": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki/fox-glacier-te-moeka-o-tuawe/pt-2298", "name": "Pt 2298", "altitude": "2298m", "access": null, "description": "On Pioneer Ridge, 1.5km west of Pioneer Hut.", "latlng": [ "-43.527144", "170.164587" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki/fox-glacier-te-moeka-o-tuawe/pt-2298/fintastic", "name": "Fintastic", "grade": "14", "topo_ref": null, "image": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/route/untitled.png?itok=uxRRCgCl", "images": [ { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/route/untitled.png?itok=uxRRCgCl", "height": "231", "width": "325" }, { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/route/2298pk.jpg?itok=ZruxXK_H", "height": "202", "width": "325" } ], "length": "240m", "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": "240m", "bolts": null, "trad": true, "ewbank": "14", "description": "Good natural anchors, mainly slings, wires & cams at 30m intervals." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": true, "description": null, "ascent": "Murray Ball and Aspiring Guide's Steep Ice Course, Feb 2005 ( info rec'd 2/21)" } ], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/darrans/earl-mountains/pyramid-pk": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/darrans/earl-mountains/pyramid-pk", "name": "Pyramid Pk", "altitude": "2295m", "access": null, "description": null, "latlng": [ "-44.8392279", "168.01277298" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/darrans/earl-mountains/pyramid-pk/east-ridge", "name": "East Ridge", "grade": null, "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "The rock is broken and loose in places." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Dal Ryan, R H Shelton, S G Hunter, Dec 1958." }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/darrans/earl-mountains/pyramid-pk/original-route", "name": "Original Route", "grade": null, "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "Climb through the bluffs to the snowfield then start up the North Ridge, the subtle buttress forming the junction of the northeast and north faces. Where the ridge steepens traverse left across the northeast face to the top of the East Ridge." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Rod Ryan, Dal Ryan, Jan 1951." }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/darrans/earl-mountains/pyramid-pk/north-east-face", "name": "North East Face", "grade": null, "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": "500m", "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": "500m", "bolts": null, "trad": true, "ewbank": null, "description": "Start in the middle of the face at the large buttress which forms the base of the face; three pitches to the top of the buttress then move across a gravel connection to the main face; two pitches going left then right before straightening up; 200m of scrambling to join the East Ridge not far below the junction with the North Ridge." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": true, "description": null, "ascent": "Ian Brown, Tom Williams, Feb 2002." }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/darrans/earl-mountains/pyramid-pk/west-ridge", "name": "West Ridge", "grade": null, "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "Up tussock and scree slopes. \r\nThe party made the first traverse to the East Ridge." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Austin Brookes, Dal Ryan, 1965." } ], "places": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/fiordland/earl-mountains/pyramid-peak/north-face", "name": "North Face", "altitude": null, "access": null, "description": "Route finding can be tricky on this complex, faceted wall.", "latlng": null, "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/fiordland/earl-mountains/pyramid-peak/north-face/jenkins-lindley", "name": "Jenkins Lindley", "grade": null, "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "James Jenkins, Tim Lindley, Jan 1973." }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/fiordland/earl-mountains/pyramid-peak/north-face/stormfront", "name": "Stormfront", "grade": "18", "topo_ref": null, "image": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/route/IMG_1448.jpg?itok=QaRSE-hP", "images": [ { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/route/IMG_1448.jpg?itok=QaRSE-hP", "height": "325", "width": "244" } ], "length": "430m", "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": "430m", "bolts": null, "trad": true, "ewbank": "18", "description": "Ten Pitches. Great climbing with good protection. Starts from the snowfield, on a prominent white patch of rock below the major gully on the left side of the face, some distance down from the col at the base of the North Ridge.\r\n Rightward leading ramp of grey rock." }, { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "More ramp through to a grassy groove." }, { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "Left and up to cave. Exit low on right and up easing buttress." }, { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "Left into groove and up." }, { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "Weave up a complex series of grooves, hanging slabs and ribs (crux) to a ledge at the right end of ramp." }, { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "6-10) Move left and up to ridge-crest then to summit." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": true, "description": null, "ascent": "Ian Brown, Peter Blunt, Feb 2001." } ], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] } ], "image": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/wide/public/image/D51.jpg?itok=mJwCad38", "images": [ { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/wide/public/image/D51.jpg?itok=mJwCad38", "height": "428", "width": "612" } ] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aspiring/humboldt-mountains/somnus": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aspiring/humboldt-mountains/somnus", "name": "Somnus", "altitude": "2293m", "access": null, "description": "tba", "latlng": [ "-44.66504424", "168.22088433" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aspiring/humboldt-mountains/somnus/south-ridge", "name": "South Ridge", "grade": "I,1", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": "0m", "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": "I", "mtcook": "1", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "" } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": "0", "natural_pro": false, "description": "From the bivvy at D40 297 042 in North Branch of Routeburn, which is at the head of a small avalanche path about 100m above the creek on the true left, climb the prominent ridge and rock face to gain access to the snow field above. A small couloir leading left from the head of the snow field gives access to the south ridge of Somnus.", "ascent": null }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aspiring/humboldt-mountains/somnus/somnus-couloir", "name": "Somnus Couloir", "grade": "2,I", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": "0m", "pitches": [ { "alpine": "2", "commitment": "I", "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": null } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": "0", "natural_pro": false, "description": "From the bivvy at E40 303 021 climb a prominent steep couloir to gain access to the snowfields above which the south ridge can be gained.", "ascent": "F Wright, J Robertson, February 1920" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aspiring/humboldt-mountains/somnus/north-ridge", "name": "North Ridge", "grade": "2,II", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": "0m", "pitches": [ { "alpine": "2", "commitment": "II", "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": null } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": "0", "natural_pro": false, "description": "The North Col of the Routeburn gives access over Nereus on the Rock Burn side at the lowest point. Snow, rock and a long couloir lead to the summit rocks.", "ascent": null } ], "places": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aspiring/humboldt-mountains/somnus/north-east-face", "name": "North East Face", "altitude": null, "access": "Access easiest from the Rock Burn via Theatre Flat. Many options exist from here.\nReasonable access has been made going up the side stream with marked 85m waterfall until where the waterfall is visible and the stream starts to enter a gorge. Here, plunge uphill to the true right into a thick bush edge which soon relents to mature beech trees on the spur, then follow good travel via more open forest and animal tracks to gain the basin NE of Pt 1800 (and upper reaches of the stream with marked 40m waterfall).\nFrom here follow the stream upwards to gain the higher basin (1400-1500m elevation) below the NE face. A waterfall at 1360m is bypassed easily on scree slopes to the true right. Travel from this basin to the N side couloir is made via slabs, snow and gullies close under Pt 1800. Campsites are scarce 1300-1650m, but abundant on bedrock ledges higher.", "description": "North East face of Somnus containing multiple buttresses and ridgelines leading to the large lower angled summit dome.", "latlng": [ "-44.66434", "168.2209" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aspiring/humboldt-mountains/somnus/north-east-face/north-east-buttress", "name": "North East Buttress", "grade": "15,4", "topo_ref": "BD", "image": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/route/Somnus%20NE%20Buttress_9.jpg?itok=s3D_5vG1", "images": [ { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/route/Somnus%20NE%20Buttress_9.jpg?itok=s3D_5vG1", "height": "325", "width": "244" } ], "length": "700m", "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "4", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": "700m", "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": "15", "description": "The route follows the left hand of two prominent ribs that form the buttress before tending right up easier ground to finish directly on the summit. 700m of climbing mainly on solid rock with sections at up to grade 15/16, mainly on the lower buttress, before the angle eases towards the top." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": "0", "natural_pro": false, "description": "On Place reference photo as \"BD\" (Ben Dare)", "ascent": "Ben Dare 11/1/14" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aspiring/humboldt-mountains/somnus/north-east-face/somnthing", "name": "Somnthing", "grade": "16,4", "topo_ref": "ST", "image": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/2024-01/IMG_20240118_182516.jpg?itok=YmYHUVQ2", "images": [ { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/2024-01/IMG_20240118_182516.jpg?itok=YmYHUVQ2", "height": "325", "width": "244" } ], "length": "700m", "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "4", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": "700m", "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": "16", "description": "The route follows the (lookers) rightmost large buttress on the face. Accessed by traversing in from the right up glacier carved slabs until a vegetated gravel ledge system leads to the base of the main climbing. Direct probably goes too, though in a stepwise vegetated fashion. \r\n\r\nFollow your nose through the buttress with steps of 15-16, until a face with multiple crack/corner systems with roofs on the right is reached. Pick the best looking line through the face and continue up. A section of 17 was found on the RHS of a pillar above this - you might find somnthing else! The whole route contains many options in most places. \r\n\r\nSurprisingly good rock quality! Some excellent climbing to be had. Large ledges for belays within 60m rope lengths.\r\nA rack of 5 cams 0.2-1 was carried and all used, however the gear tended on the smaller side. Large slings very useful for belays. Some significant runouts not only due to the small rack, so best to be very solid at, or better - above the grade. \r\n\r\nDescent via couloir on the N with one 30m rappel.\r\n\r\nA great day out. Access via Rock Burn and streambed/spurs beneath Pt 1943 and traversing into the basin at 1200m contour, although descent through OK bush bashing was made down the spur under Pt 1800 and into side stream with marked 85m waterfall, see Place (North East Face, Somnus) description. Route marked in Place reference photo as ST." } ], "quality": 1, "bolts": "0", "natural_pro": false, "description": "\"We have to do \"something\" before I leave\" - Penzy", "ascent": "Penzy Dinsdale, Sooji Clarkson, January 2024" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aspiring/humboldt-mountains/somnus/north-east-face/battle-somne", "name": "Battle of the Somne", "grade": "19,5+", "topo_ref": "BS", "image": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/2024-01/415535186_1311687346894203_3209830618304439041_n%20%281%29.jpg?itok=49OJzD6i", "images": [ { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/2024-01/415535186_1311687346894203_3209830618304439041_n%20%281%29.jpg?itok=49OJzD6i", "height": "325", "width": "244" }, { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/2024-01/415535184_373360098779139_1127975357959983198_n.jpg?itok=bac1dOfF", "height": "325", "width": "245" }, { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/2024-01/20240125_081207_0.jpg?itok=096TnEz-", "height": "325", "width": "244" }, { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/2024-01/20240125_111931_0.jpg?itok=Kycm68x3", "height": "325", "width": "244" }, { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/2024-01/20240125_122151_0.jpg?itok=OXZAxqlx", "height": "325", "width": "244" }, { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/2024-01/20240125_155014.jpg?itok=Dy98D_gY", "height": "244", "width": "325" }, { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/2024-01/20240125_124849.jpg?itok=TYHJnygU", "height": "244", "width": "325" }, { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/2024-01/20240125_132434.jpg?itok=5YWBu0cE", "height": "244", "width": "325" } ], "length": "400m", "pitches": [ { "alpine": "5+", "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": "400m", "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": "19", "description": "The route starts at the large triangular face below the sawtooth ridge. Scramble or pitch up the first buttress to meet a ledge, which can be very easily traversed climbers left to reach the start of multiple corner systems.\r\n\r\nAscent was made via the large corner on the climbers right (see photo topo), then traversing left two corners across due to ice and lack of gear, estimated grade 19 (note cold and sad, gr\u00e4y, wintery conditions made estimating grade difficult - dissension in the ranks!) Multiple options may exist via the other corners, or more easily the crest to the right.\r\n\r\nOn pitch 2 (60m), a small roof to the climbers R led to a long open corner pitch to belay near the start of the sawtoothed ridge. A couple of pinnacles were able to be bypassed, some were up-and-over jobs. A good piece of alpine faffery dispatched with simul climbing and one abseil. As the sawtooth eases, the route trends left on easy rubbley rock to a ledge below a clean right-facing corner. This full 60m, highly memorable pitch at approx grade 17 (heading climbers L at the very top of the corner) leads you to easier ground. Pause to admire the commanding views of Amphion, Minos, Nox and the gorgeous Rock Burn out to Park Pass before following your nose up lower angled ground to the summit.\r\n\r\nA single rack from 00 to #2 was used with doubles in #1, 0.5-0.2, a half set of nuts, two large slings for belays, and a (mostly) positive attitude. \r\nApprox 270m of roped climbing, plus scrambling to the base of the first corner and after the top corner." } ], "quality": 1, "bolts": "0", "natural_pro": false, "description": "High quality alpine rock climbing with a stonking 60m corner pitch to finish the technical climbing.\nThis route climbs the furthest right buttress that can be seen from the basin below the NE face, easily identified by the striking sawtooth ridge section in the lower third.\nNew snow and ice on the route despite it being late January made for a fair bit of battling indeed. The first attempt was aborted due to thick snow flurries and more ice than desirable on the route. However after a council of war that evening at a cold campsite, a fresh assault in the morning proved successful despite frozen rock shoes and a good honest dose of suffering - memories of which were well erased by the value of the climbing and the quality of the rock!\n\"That was the best winter trip I've had all summer!\"\nDescent via N ridge and snow couloir. Accessed from Rock Burn, exited via basins to the SE of Somnus and creek NE of Momus (skirmishes with scrub, slab and rapids in the canyon : take-no-prisoners terrain during proper rain) to rejoin Rock Burn track.", "ascent": "Ruari Macfarlane, Sooji Clarkson, 25 January 2024" } ], "places": [], "image": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/wide/public/2024-01/415535186_1311687346894203_3209830618304439041_n%20%281%29.jpg?itok=K-2CYbUE", "images": [ { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/wide/public/2024-01/415535186_1311687346894203_3209830618304439041_n%20%281%29.jpg?itok=K-2CYbUE", "height": "480", "width": "360" }, { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/wide/public/2024-01/420027749_684791240477030_8492940352354538694_n.jpg?itok=AtyNOG02", "height": "1448", "width": "1090" }, { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/wide/public/2024-01/419971150_899984335156258_8875283050032195977_n.jpg?itok=YXIx4hlp", "height": "1448", "width": "1090" } ] } ], "image": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/wide/public/image/1-P9240157.JPG?itok=PyrDH8tu", "images": [ { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/wide/public/image/1-P9240157.JPG?itok=PyrDH8tu", "height": "675", "width": "900" } ] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki/franz-josef-glacier-ka-roimata-o-hine-hukatere/newton-rocks": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki/franz-josef-glacier-ka-roimata-o-hine-hukatere/newton-rocks", "name": "Newton Rocks", "altitude": "2291m", "access": null, "description": "An easy climb from the col leading to St Mildred Peak.\nHenry Newton, Ebenezer Teichelmann, William Batson, Jan 1902.", "latlng": [ "-43.47609299", "170.23538589" ], "routes": [], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/nelson-lakes/franklin-ridge/pt-2291": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/nelson-lakes/franklin-ridge/pt-2291", "name": "Pt 2291", "altitude": "2291m", "access": null, "description": null, "latlng": [ "-42.0687289", "172.68121719" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/nelson-lakes/franklin-ridge/pt-2291/north-west-ridge", "name": "North West Ridge", "grade": "2", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": "2", "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "From the moraine wall above Blue Lake, a tussock and scree spur gives access to a high scree basin. At its head, climb moderate rock on the right of a couloir leading to the ridge. An exposed section of ridge can be turned on the southern slopes." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": null } ], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki/liebig-range/the-acolyte": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki/liebig-range/the-acolyte", "name": "The Acolyte", "altitude": "2290m", "access": null, "description": "tba", "latlng": [ "-43.7082", "170.234346" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki/liebig-range/the-acolyte/unnamed", "name": "Unnamed", "grade": null, "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "Can be climbed via Botanical Spur (as marked on map BX16) or from Irish Creek. Both can be accessed from south of the Tasman Lake." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Peter Graham, Miss Joachim, J Stout, Mar 1917" } ], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/main-divide-of-the-southern-alps/mt-neave": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/main-divide-of-the-southern-alps/mt-neave", "name": "Mt Neave", "altitude": "2290m", "access": null, "description": "Mt Neave is named after the original occupant of Mt Algidus Station (then called Neave\u2019s Station), who crossed Whitcombe Pass with Julius von Haast and Andreas Reischek in 1879.", "latlng": [ "-43.18171", "171.017046" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/main-divide-of-the-southern-alps/mt-neave/south-ridge", "name": "South Ridge", "grade": "2-", "topo_ref": "SR", "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "2-", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "Head for the small permanent ice gully south-west of Mt Neave. Continue to the col and then\r\nup very loose rock.\r\nThe first ascentionists followed Snag Creek, climbing out on the true left, then climbed the South Ridge and descended the West Ridge. However, it needs to be noted that maps at this\r\ntime all placed Snag Creek downstream of Neave Creek, while the metric series place Snag\r\nCreek upstream. Their Snag Creek was probably today\u2019s Neave Creek." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Stan Davis, R I Kean, A F Thompson, O M Prebble, December 1934" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/main-divide-of-the-southern-alps/mt-neave/west-ridge", "name": "West Ridge", "grade": "2-", "topo_ref": "WR", "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "2-", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "From the Whitcombe Valley, reasonable tussock access to the gravel basins under the Main\r\nDivide exists around Cap Creek and Molar Stream. From the permanent ice at the head of\r\nNeave Creek, pick a line through bluffs (crux) to reach the West Ridge between 2000 and\r\n2100 metres. Other routes onto the ridge from lower down should also work and may be easier." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "R I Keen, A F Thompson, O M Prebble and S E Davis (descended), 26 December 1934" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/main-divide-of-the-southern-alps/mt-neave/north-west-face", "name": "North West Face", "grade": "2-", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "2-", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "The original party bashed up through bush from Cave Camp and, forsaking the ridge, headed\r\nstraight up the face on steep snow and good rock, belaying part of the way. The last part was\r\nover tumbled scree." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Graham McCallum, Tony Nolan, 1 January 1948" } ], "places": [], "image": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/wide/public/image/p259_1.png?itok=me07z_78", "images": [ { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/wide/public/image/p259_1.png?itok=me07z_78", "height": "587", "width": "900" } ] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/otago/harris-mountains/black-pk": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/otago/harris-mountains/black-pk", "name": "Black Pk", "altitude": "2289m", "access": null, "description": "Black Peak is a spectacular mountain in the lower valley", "latlng": [ "-44.58421979", "168.83154736" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/otago/harris-mountains/black-pk/standard-routes", "name": "Standard Routes", "grade": "II,2", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": "II", "mtcook": "2", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "There are two main ridges both of which can be seen from Wanaka, the Eastern Spur and the North Ridge. The Eastern Spur is accessed through Cattle Flat Station and is an interesting climb through bluffs and along an exposed ridge. The other route is through Matukituki Station and goes up the true right of Phoebe Creek and under a line of bluffs on a sheep trail then up the ridge. \r\n\u2021 During winter Black Peak is the site of some steep multi-pitch ice climbing. See the section on waterfall ice," } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": null } ], "places": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/otago/harris-mountains/black-peak/south-east-face-ice-routes", "name": "South East Face (Ice routes)", "altitude": null, "access": null, "description": "On the South East Face of Black peak are two quality routes. Underneath the summit snowfield there is a line of bluffs with a ramp running from right to left underneath them. The routes are on these bluffs. These lines can be viewed from the Mt Aspiring lookout at the Treble Cone Ski Area. This is a wild place to climb and has a feeling more akin to climbing in the greater Alps. To get to these lines you can use the routes described in the Black Peak lower valley section or a helicopter can be used for an express lift from Charlie Ewing at Cattle Flat station.\nSouth side of Black Peak\nThere is an expansive crag of ice near the bottom of the South Face of Black Peak. It is on a line of bluffs facing east. There isn\u2019t a lot of information on this ice as only a few ascents have been made, but it looks like the whole spectrum from mellow to mental is covered.", "latlng": null, "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/otago/harris-mountains/black-peak/south-east-face-ice-routes/huge", "name": "Huge", "grade": "WI5", "topo_ref": "1", "image": null, "images": [], "length": "200m", "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": "WI5", "mixed": null, "length": "200m", "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "contained in a gully and once again the steepest section is at the bottom. On the first ascent the icicles were formed up in steps with a small overhang to be surmounted. The pitches are four long ones and end at the snow-field. Both of these routes are relatively safe from avalanches. However the ramp to access them should be treated with kid gloves." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Dave Vass & Allan Uren, August 1993." }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/otago/harris-mountains/black-peak/south-east-face-ice-routes/straight-jacket-fits", "name": "The Straight Jacket Fits", "grade": "WI3", "topo_ref": "2", "image": null, "images": [], "length": "150m", "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": "WI3", "mixed": null, "length": "150m", "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "This route climbs out of a small alcove at the top of the line of bluffs. The \r\n\r\nfirst pitch is the steepest. Above this a few laid back pitches lead up a gully to the snow field." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Allan Uren, August 1993." } ], "places": [], "image": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/wide/public/image/BlackPeak_fmt.jpeg?itok=lWPxKcT-", "images": [ { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/wide/public/image/BlackPeak_fmt.jpeg?itok=lWPxKcT-", "height": "457", "width": "320" } ] } ], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/c58dhau-landsborough/barrier-range/temple-pk": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/c58dhau-landsborough/barrier-range/temple-pk", "name": "Temple Pk", "altitude": "2289m", "access": null, "description": null, "latlng": [ "-44.07064352", "169.7522444" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/%C5%8Dhau-landsborough/barrier-range/temple-pk/west-face", "name": "West Face", "grade": "1", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "1", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": null } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": "Easy approach from the South Huxley but steep and shattered rock near the\nsummit.", "ascent": "Ernie Presland, Harry Stevenson January 1934" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/%C5%8Dhau-landsborough/barrier-range/temple-pk/ironlatch", "name": "Ironlatch", "grade": "16", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": "200m", "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": "200m", "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": "16", "description": "Ironlatch is a 200m high route at grade 16 on a rock pillar, left side of NW face of Temple Peak 2289m. Bill describes the pillar as 'stunning' when seen from the South Huxley valley." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Bill McLeod, November 1995" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/%C5%8Dhau-landsborough/barrier-range/temple-pk/east-face", "name": "East Face", "grade": "2", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "2", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": null } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": "Ascend the steep cirque wall at the head of the valley then strike up towards\nthe summit. Excellent quality schist provides pleasant scrambling until near\nthe ridge crest.", "ascent": "To the ridge, Nola Bishop, Murray Cassidy, Jim McFarlane, April 1950" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/%C5%8Dhau-landsborough/barrier-range/temple-pk/temple-doom", "name": "Temple of Doom", "grade": "WI4,M5", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": "WI4", "mixed": "M5", "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": null } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": "Just over the hill at the head of the accessible North Temple. The winter\npotential in this steep corner has been noticed for a while, and Kester\u2019s\ncomment \u201ca great climb with an exciting first pitch followed by a short\npillar then eighty metres of climbing of lower angle with some steeper\nbulges\u201d suggests it easily met their expectations.", "ascent": "Kester Brown and Jono Clarke, Winter 2006" } ], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aspiring/snowdrift-range/mt-tiber": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aspiring/snowdrift-range/mt-tiber", "name": "Mt Tiber", "altitude": "2288m", "access": null, "description": "tba", "latlng": [ "-44.478067", "168.487252" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aspiring/snowdrift-range/mt-tiber/boys-col", "name": "From Boys Col", "grade": null, "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "From Boys Col cross the west Snowball Glacier and ascend the north face, \r\nor traverse Mt Amundsen from Boys Col or Key Dome. The west Snowball Glacier can also be reached from O\u2019Leary Pass across snowfields on the Joe River side of Ferrier, Bernard and Ian. This gives an ice or rock route to the top." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": null } ], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/canterbury-westland-alps/butler-range/dog-kennel-pk": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/canterbury-westland-alps/butler-range/dog-kennel-pk", "name": "Dog Kennel Pk", "altitude": "2288m", "access": null, "description": "Named by Otto Frind in 1914.", "latlng": [ "-43.461268", "170.421124" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/canterbury-westland-alps/butler-range/dog-kennel-pk/north-rib", "name": "North Rib", "grade": "2", "topo_ref": "NR", "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "2", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "Begin up a snow gut (now often rock) that descends between the north-west ridge and the\r\nnorth rib. The route then swings left up the north rib, east of this gut." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "S Conway, J Sampson, M Fowlds, L Ryan, 31 December 1949" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/canterbury-westland-alps/butler-range/dog-kennel-pk/south-west-face", "name": "South West Face", "grade": "2", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "2", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "From Lake Barrowman, follow the broad gully directly to the summit of Dog Kennel Peak.\r\nFalling from the route will see you in the lake, so take care!" } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Phil Castle, Steve Rawnsley, Barry Kivell, 30 December 1982" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/canterbury-westland-alps/butler-range/dog-kennel-pk/north-west-ridge", "name": "North West Ridge", "grade": "2+", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "2+", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "From the South Butler Valley, head straight up the snow (rock) gully to the col immediately\r\nsouth-east of Mt Barrowman, and en route climb around a small waterfall out to the right. The\r\nlast part to the col is difficult (slabs). The back (Lake Barrowman) side of Dog Kennel Peak\r\noffers steep snow and nice slabs." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Mike Andrews, Ross Eden, 1st February 1979" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/canterbury-westland-alps/butler-range/dog-kennel-pk/south-east-ridge-and-%E2%80%98-dog%E2%80%99", "name": "South East Ridge and \u2018The Dog\u2019", "grade": "3-", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "3-", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "From the South Butler Valley, follow the narrow snow (or rock) gully leading up to the lowest\r\npoint on the ridge between Mt Huss and Dog Kennel Peak. (The small peak immediately west\r\nof here is referred to as the Dog.) There are two difficult rock steps, the first leading up to the\r\nDog. From there, descend a narrow snow ridge to a second col, where there is another rock step\r\non the ridge, before the final easier climb to Dog Kennel Peak." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Mike Andrews, Ross Eden (descended), 1 February 1979" } ], "places": [], "image": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/wide/public/image/SthButler_2.png?itok=sl7xePmd", "images": [ { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/wide/public/image/SthButler_2.png?itok=sl7xePmd", "height": "476", "width": "900" } ] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/ni/tongariro/mt-ngauruhoe": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/ni/tongariro/mt-ngauruhoe", "name": "Mt Ngauruhoe", "altitude": "2287m", "access": null, "description": "The symmetrical cone of Ngauruhoe is a consistent slope of scoria and or snow; the views will be the main point of difference on different approaches.", "latlng": [ "-39.15838441", "175.63490868" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/ni/tongariro/mt-ngauruhoe/south-crater-route", "name": "South Crater Route", "grade": "1,I", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": "1150m", "pitches": [ { "alpine": "1", "commitment": "I", "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": "1150m", "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "The common ascent route starts from Tongariro\u2019s South Crater entrance, after\r\nclimbing up out of the Mangatepopo Valley. In summer, aim for the central lava\r\nrib; the climb is considerably more entertaining in winter when there is snow or,\r\nbetter yet, ice, usually up the shallow gully that leads into the crater area. Watch\r\nfor slides when the afternoon sun warms these slopes." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": null }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/ni/tongariro/mt-ngauruhoe/waihohonu", "name": "From Waihohonu", "grade": "1,I", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": "1200m", "pitches": [ { "alpine": "1", "commitment": "I", "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": "1200m", "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "Those in search of a longer and more remote alternative could climb the mountain\r\nfrom Waihohonu Hut, off the Desert Road. Take the track towards Oturere as far\r\nas the ridge running up to Tama. Climb this ridge until you can sidle towards the\r\nbase of the volcano\u2019s cone. Onwards to the top." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": null } ], "places": [], "image": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/wide/public/image/volcano.jpg?itok=Jp5z5M6b", "images": [ { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/wide/public/image/volcano.jpg?itok=Jp5z5M6b", "height": "529", "width": "900" } ] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/westland/maximilian-range/mt-peter": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/westland/maximilian-range/mt-peter", "name": "Mt Peter", "altitude": "2286m", "access": null, "description": "na", "latlng": [ "-43.457779", "170.345249" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/westland/maximilian-range/mt-peter/north-ridge", "name": "North Ridge", "grade": "1+", "topo_ref": "NR", "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "1+", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "From Whymper Hut, follow the gully draining between Mt Wilczek and Mt Alec, then snowfields\r\nbeyond Pt 1573 metres up towards the Maximilian Range. The Maximilian Range and snow slopes on it can now be followed south over Pt 2328 metres to Mt Peter." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "D Dawe, R Evans (from the Leonard Glacier), January 1954" } ], "places": [], "image": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/wide/public/image/peter.png?itok=QQ27I0x4", "images": [ { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/wide/public/image/peter.png?itok=QQ27I0x4", "height": "576", "width": "900" } ] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/otago/huxley-range/highlander-pk": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/otago/huxley-range/highlander-pk", "name": "Highlander Pk", "altitude": "2285m", "access": null, "description": "TBA", "latlng": [ "-44.22773501", "169.54825567" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/otago/huxley-range/highlander-pk/zwieback", "name": "Zwieback", "grade": "4,III", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": "4", "commitment": "III", "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": null } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": "Begin at top of snowcone near the centre of the north west face, angle\nleftward for two easy pitches to gain crest of rib. Follow rib for five\npitches of pleasant climbing up to grade 14 to reach the summit ridge 25m\nnorth of the high point. Descent via same route. Access to this climb was from Upper Dingle Burn and sidle north past Wind Pudding Stream.", "ascent": "Ross Cullen, Bill McLeod, March 2003" } ], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/c58dhau-landsborough/barrier-range/rabbiters-pk": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/c58dhau-landsborough/barrier-range/rabbiters-pk", "name": "Rabbiters Pk", "altitude": "2285m", "access": null, "description": null, "latlng": [ "-44.04875746", "169.77466397" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/%C5%8Dhau-landsborough/barrier-range/rabbiters-pk/west-face", "name": "West Face", "grade": "2,II", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": "2", "commitment": "II", "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": null } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": "Follow the open streambed from the South Huxley just upstream of South Huxley Bivvy, grind up the scree slopes and scramble up the steeper rock to the summit.", "ascent": "First ascent unknown" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/%C5%8Dhau-landsborough/barrier-range/rabbiters-pk/east-face", "name": "East Face", "grade": "2,II", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": "2", "commitment": "II", "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": null } ], "quality": 1, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": "Rabbiters Peak has been recognised since the 1930s for the very fine view that it commands, from Mts Earnslaw and Aspiring to Hooker and Aoraki. Use the spur running south-east of Pt 1556m to gain the basin east of Rabbiters Peak and from here amble up tussock slopes towards the summit, which is reached by a final rock scramble.", "ascent": "Christopher Johnson, Harry Stevenson, Lyn Stevenson, January 1938" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/%C5%8Dhau-landsborough/barrier-range/rabbiters-pk/east-ridge", "name": "East Ridge", "grade": "2,II", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": "2", "commitment": "II", "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": null } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": "Either along the ridge from Rams Head, or from the bush edge in the North Temple, climb the steep tussock slopes to the crest of the ridge, then follow the ridge west to reach the summit. Rocky sections along the ridge can be turned on the north side. Cross the permanent snowfield (not marked on some topomaps) and climb a final pitch of steep and loose rock to the summit.", "ascent": "First ascent unknown" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/%C5%8Dhau-landsborough/barrier-range/rabbiters-pk/south-face", "name": "South Face", "grade": "2+", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "2+", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": null } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": "Ascend the steep cirque wall at the head of the valley then strike up towards\nthe permanent snowfield. Follow a line up through the bluffs to the low peak.\nThe high peak is approximately 400m further north across easy snowfields.", "ascent": "First ascent unknown" } ], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/%C5%8Dhau-landsborough/main-divide/mt-hickson": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/%C5%8Dhau-landsborough/main-divide/mt-hickson", "name": "Mt Hickson", "altitude": "2285m", "access": null, "description": null, "latlng": [ "-43.8866", "169.7972" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/%C5%8Dhau-landsborough/main-divide/mt-hickson/western-slopes", "name": "Western Slopes", "grade": "1", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "1", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": null } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": "South along the Main Divide and western slopes from Elcho Pass provides easy\naccess to Mt Hickson.", "ascent": null } ], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aspiring/forbes-mountains/mt-clarke": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aspiring/forbes-mountains/mt-clarke", "name": "Mt Clarke", "altitude": "2285m", "access": null, "description": "First climbed by L.M. Earle in 1909 from the Rees.", "latlng": [ "-44.551699", "168.480439" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aspiring/forbes-mountains/mt-clarke/north-east-ridge", "name": "North East Ridge", "grade": "1,I", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": "0m", "pitches": [ { "alpine": "1", "commitment": "I", "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": null } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": "0", "natural_pro": false, "description": "Climbing from Shelter Rock Hut follow the long couloir on the east face and complete the climb up the North East Ridge.", "ascent": null }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aspiring/forbes-mountains/mt-clarke/south-ridge", "name": "South Ridge", "grade": "I,1", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": "I", "mtcook": "1", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "From the Rees climb the Clarke Slip to gain the Clarke spur (or reach it from the north branch of Hunter Creek). Either ascend the spur to the summit, or detour on to the snow slopes to the west or cross the snow slopes to Pyramid Col and complete the climb by that ridge. Many variations are possible.\r\n\r\nThere is a small bivvy rock on the ridge out of the Clarke Slip at E40 509 150 but it is not much good in rough weather." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": null } ], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/canterbury/naumann-range/armistice-pk": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/canterbury/naumann-range/armistice-pk", "name": "Armistice Pk", "altitude": "2284m", "access": null, "description": "TBA", "latlng": [ "-43.9134", "169.9122" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/canterbury/naumann-range/armistice-pk/eastern-route", "name": "Eastern Route", "grade": null, "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "No recorded ascent from the east." }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/canterbury/naumann-range/armistice-pk/north-west-ridge", "name": "North West Ridge", "grade": "1", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "1", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": null } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": "Samuel Turner and Edgar Williams climbed a peak on 11 November 1918 and named\nit Armistice Peak. Identifying which peak was climbed later proved difficult,\nbut Armistice Peak has recently been gazetted. From Dodger Hut, climb through\nthe beech forest to gain the north west ridge and traverse to the summit.\nExcellent views across to Main Divide peaks.", "ascent": "Samuel Turner, Edgar Williams, November 1918" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/canterbury/naumann-range/armistice-pk/animal-crackers", "name": "Animal Crackers", "grade": "3", "topo_ref": null, "image": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/routes/P1060077.JPG?itok=olgWNul3", "images": [ { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/routes/P1060077.JPG?itok=olgWNul3", "height": "244", "width": "325" } ], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "3", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": null } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": "Animal Crackers climbs the west buttress of Armistice Peak. This Christmas\nDay climb involves 300 metres of steady grade 12-13 climbing on good rock\neast of Dodger Hut.", "ascent": "Bill McLeod, December 1993" } ], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/darrans/darran-mountains/mt-christina-north-pk": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/darrans/darran-mountains/mt-christina-north-pk", "name": "Mt Christina North Pk", "altitude": "2284m", "access": null, "description": "Mt Christina\u2019s North Pk is shown as Pt 2324 on Topomaps, but is probably better attributed to Pt 2284.", "latlng": [ "-44.782597", "168.042455" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/darrans/darran-mountains/mt-christina-north-pk/mccallum-miller", "name": "McCallum Miller", "grade": null, "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": "Follow the rock buttress from upper Cirque Creek on the left side of a gully,\ncrossing to the right and up a snow couloir higher up to gain the North\nRidge. Reasonable rock, but grassy.", "ascent": "Graham McCallum, Ralph Miller December 1962" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/darrans/darran-mountains/mt-christina-north-pk/troubled-land", "name": "The Troubled Land", "grade": "4,VI", "topo_ref": null, "image": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/route/GM_Christina_uncropped.jpg?itok=p_11JWO0", "images": [ { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/route/GM_Christina_uncropped.jpg?itok=p_11JWO0", "height": "325", "width": "261" } ], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": "4", "commitment": "VI", "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": null } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": "Long mellow sections of narrow couloir with frequent steps to the snowfield.\nMove right and finish up the couloir of the Miller McCallum line.", "ascent": "Guy Mckinnon, September 2012" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/darrans/darran-mountains/mt-christina-north-pk/gully-north-peak", "name": "Gully to North Peak", "grade": "IV,WI4", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": "IV", "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": "WI4", "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": null } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": "Starting as for the Original west face route until the first cleft, moving\ninto a broad gully where possible. The route trends left out of the gully at\npoints to avoid steep ground but never strays from it entirely. At about half\nheight traverse some bulges, committing moves left, before regaining the\ngully and summit. A long 1200m ice climb. Descend via the Original Route;\nnote that this involves tricky route finding and unstable snow late in the\nafternoon. \"For my level of fitness and understanding of the Darrans this\nroute was probably pushing it a bit. Diving home I woke up hitting marker\nposts and had to sleep a few times. Looking back with a bit more knowledge I\nprobably had trashed blood sugar levels and was a bit hypothermic.\u201c \u2013\nMerv English.", "ascent": "Merv English (solo), November 1976" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/darrans/darran-mountains/mt-christina-north-pk/sea-tranquillity", "name": "Sea of Tranquillity", "grade": "18", "topo_ref": "3", "image": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/route/IMG_1453.jpg?itok=qmHmo-ZY", "images": [ { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/route/IMG_1453.jpg?itok=qmHmo-ZY", "height": "325", "width": "244" } ], "length": "200m", "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": "200m", "bolts": null, "trad": true, "ewbank": "18", "description": null } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": true, "description": "Five pitches: 17, 16, 17, 18, 17. Climb the standard route out of Cirque\nCreek to the high basin left of the Skyline Buttress. To reach the start,\nhead leftwards up into a rocky gully to the base of the West Face. You will\nsee a pillar towering over the top of the gully. Climb up and right over this\npillar and move rightwards along a ledge system, bypassing a wide crack until\nreaching a nice hand-crack approximately 3m further on. Angle towards the\nV-groove you\u2019ll have seen from down in the gully. Sensational 40m pitch.", "ascent": "Steve Carr, Andrew MacFarlane, Des Smith, February 2000" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/darrans/darran-mountains/mt-christina-north-pk/gauloise-falls", "name": "Gauloise Falls", "grade": "III,WI5", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": "III", "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": "WI5", "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": null } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": "The arty cascades that you scuttle around in summer on the way up Christina.\nFour pitches. Two pitches had amazing clear ice, so it felt like climbing\ndirectly on top of the rock and tussock. Descend by rapping off of the top\npitch, and then sidle off the ledges on the true right. The winter of 1992\nwas exceptionally cold and these falls froze good and solid. They may not\nform that often.", "ascent": "Brian Alder, Matt Evrard, Dave Fearnley, July 1992" } ], "places": [], "image": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/wide/public/image/Christina%20Up%20W.jpg?itok=G_hE58BB", "images": [ { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/wide/public/image/Christina%20Up%20W.jpg?itok=G_hE58BB", "height": "636", "width": "900" } ] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aspiring/west-wanaka-mountains/mt-aeolus": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aspiring/west-wanaka-mountains/mt-aeolus", "name": "Mt Aeolus", "altitude": "2283m", "access": null, "description": "Also known as Oblong on account of its shape. On Topo50 BZ12 the peak is Mt Aeolus at 2283m. On the old NZMS 1 S107 the same peak is called Oblong.", "latlng": [ "-44.23507662", "168.97142121" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aspiring/west-wanaka-mountains/mt-aeolus/jumboland", "name": "From Jumboland", "grade": null, "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "" } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": "From Jumboland, cross the Wilkin and take the creek to gain the ridge leading up from the Wonderland.", "ascent": "H W Edwards, J F Foster, W E Wilson, February 1934" } ], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aspiring/west-wanaka-mountains/glengyle-pk": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aspiring/west-wanaka-mountains/glengyle-pk", "name": "Glengyle Pk", "altitude": "2283m", "access": null, "description": "Glengyle is an impressive sight from Aspiring Hut, although it is in fact little more than a bump on the South Ridge of Rob Roy. The crags and towers of Glengyle are sometimes mistakenly called the Cathedral Peaks, however that name was originally applied to all peaks between Bevan and Glengyle on the northeast side of the West Matukituki.", "latlng": [ "-44.466948", "168.705072" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aspiring/west-wanaka-mountains/glengyle-pk/south-ridge", "name": "South Ridge", "grade": "II,2", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": "0m", "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": "II", "mtcook": "2", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": null } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": "0", "natural_pro": false, "description": "Climb to the ridge by way of a clearing through the bush, across the river and slightly downstream from Wilson\u2019s Camp. From the crest of the ridge cross into a basin on the west side of the South Ridge of Rob Roy and traverse across this into a second basin to reach the foot of a mixed snow and rock ridge leading to the summit. The climb requires about 10 hours from Cascade Hut to the summit and a bivvy high on the slopes opposite Wilson\u2019s Camp would be desirable.", "ascent": "Ernie Smith, Brian Hill, Bob Fullerton, Les Buddicom, Don Divers, George Edwards, Russell Edwards, December 1934" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aspiring/west-wanaka-mountains/glengyle-pk/west-face", "name": "West Face", "grade": "2,II", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": "0m", "pitches": [ { "alpine": "2", "commitment": "II", "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": null } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": "0", "natural_pro": false, "description": "There appears to be no problem in forcing a route up through steep bush into the snow tussock basins below the peak, from where there are a variety of interesting looking rock routes to the summit. About seven hours from Aspiring Hut.", "ascent": "Jim Millson, February 1976" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aspiring/west-wanaka-mountains/glengyle-pk/west-face-following-dave", "name": "West Face. Following Dave.", "grade": "II,3", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": "II", "mtcook": "3", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "Access from terminal moraine under Rob Roy." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Dave Fearnley, Geoff Wayatt & followers, Jan 1978." }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aspiring/west-wanaka-mountains/glengyle-pk/south-face-central-gully", "name": "South Face Central Gully", "grade": "4-", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "4-", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": null } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": "5 pitches with zilch gear up the snowy middle of the face. Some short near\nvertical steps mostly 50+ degrees and ok. Tricky to get to summit along ridge", "ascent": "Alexis Belton, Jaz Morris, September 2013" } ], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/canterbury-westland-alps/main-divide/pt-2283": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/canterbury-westland-alps/main-divide/pt-2283", "name": "Pt 2283", "altitude": "2283m", "access": null, "description": "Southeast of Malcom Col, also reached via Rangitata Col.", "latlng": [ "-43.304194", "170.805559" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/canterbury-westland-alps/main-divide/pt-2283/south-west-ridge", "name": "South West Ridge", "grade": null, "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "A straightforward ascent from Rangitata Col." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": null } ], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/nelson-lakes-kaikc58dura/seaward-kaikc58dura-range/tarahaka": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/nelson-lakes-kaikc58dura/seaward-kaikc58dura-range/tarahaka", "name": "Tarahaka", "altitude": "2283m", "access": null, "description": "This impressive peak at the south end of George Spur is accessed from either Miller Stream or George Stream, but seldom climbed. (Peak 2311m just north of Tarahaka is known locally as George Spur.)", "latlng": [ "-42.1538", "173.7267" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/nelson-lakes-kaikc58dura/seaward-kaikc58dura-range/tarahaka/george-stream-route", "name": "George Stream Route", "grade": null, "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": "2200m", "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": "2200m", "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": null } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": "0", "natural_pro": false, "description": "From Waiautoa Rd proceed 1.6km up George Stream to a 4WD track and climb to George Spur. Water can be found in gullies below a campsite near Pt 1191m. Follow the long spur. A narrow eroded argillite rock section just before Peak 2311m requires care, although it can be avoided by traversing steep loose scree.", "ascent": null }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/nelson-lakes-kaikc58dura/seaward-kaikc58dura-range/tarahaka/miller-stream-route", "name": "Miller Stream Route", "grade": null, "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": "2200m", "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": "2200m", "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": null } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": "0", "natural_pro": false, "description": "From Middle Hill Station follow signs to Miller Stream and at a major junction take the north branch. (The south branch headwaters are gorged and bluffy.) At another major junction, directly north of Devils Lookout, take the true right fork. Good campsites at about 850m just before a gorge. Above a prominent waterfall the stream opens out. Climb a prominent scree on the north bank to the spur, and follow the tops. A narrow eroded argillite rock section just before Peak 2311m requires care, although it can be avoided by traversing steep loose scree.", "ascent": null }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/nelson-lakes-kaik%C5%8Dura/seaward-kaik%C5%8Dura-range/tarahaka/pt-2032", "name": "From Pt 2032", "grade": null, "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": "Point 2032m, east of Tarahaka, can be reached easily by various ridge traverses, but it is difficult climbing from here to George Spur.", "ascent": null }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/nelson-lakes-kaik%C5%8Dura/seaward-kaik%C5%8Dura-range/tarahaka/te-ao-whekere", "name": "From Te Ao Whekere", "grade": null, "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": "The traverse from Te Ao Whekere is long and involves some difficult rock scrambling.", "ascent": null } ], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/darrans/earl-mountains/flat-top-pk": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/darrans/earl-mountains/flat-top-pk", "name": "Flat Top Pk", "altitude": "2282m", "access": null, "description": "Flat Top presents an impressive face from the Eglinton Road, a view that is not diminished as you approach its base. At the head of Mistake Creek climb the moraine traversing round the small alpine lake.", "latlng": [ "-44.844144", "168.00919" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/darrans/earl-mountains/flat-top-pk/south-ridge", "name": "South Ridge", "grade": null, "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "From the Mistake Creek flats take the south branch, climbing steep tussock on the true right of the waterfall to the upper basin. The main ridge to Flat Top is cut by a deep cleft which is avoided by descending towards Lake Erskine for a short distance before regaining the South Ridge." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Chally Bowmar, Alex Dickie, 1939." }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/darrans/earl-mountains/flat-top-pk/east-face-original-route", "name": "East Face Original Route", "grade": null, "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "John Fantini, Murray Jones, February 1970" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/darrans/earl-mountains/flat-top-pk/east-face-direct", "name": "East Face direct", "grade": null, "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "A more direct line in the centre of the face, avoiding most of the difficulties." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Bruce Clark, Al Smith, Geoff Gabites, Ken Hyslop, 1975." } ], "places": [], "image": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/wide/public/image/D43.jpg?itok=n6DTkPW0", "images": [ { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/wide/public/image/D43.jpg?itok=n6DTkPW0", "height": "369", "width": "428" } ] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aspiring/forbes-mountains/west-osonzac-twins-pk": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aspiring/forbes-mountains/west-osonzac-twins-pk", "name": "West Osonzac Twins Pk", "altitude": "2282m", "access": null, "description": "(Previously referred to as South Peak)\nFirst ascent West Peak Russell and George Edwards, S.D & L.W. Divers, C.L. Buddicom, G McQueen, December 1932.", "latlng": [ "-44.552005", "168.455376" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aspiring/forbes-mountains/west-osonzac-twins-pk/north-face", "name": "North Face", "grade": "I,2", "topo_ref": "NF", "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": "I", "mtcook": "2", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "From the North Hunter ascend to the snow slope below the North East Face of Ellie and traverse to the col to the south of the peak. The West Face gives access to shingly rock terraces on the Dart side which in turn lead to a couloir on the North Face which can be followed to the top." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": null }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aspiring/forbes-mountains/west-osonzac-twins-pk/traverse", "name": "Traverse", "grade": "II,2", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": "II", "mtcook": "2", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "It is possible to traverse the Osonzac Twins but it is necessary to drop on to the Dart side." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": null } ], "places": [], "image": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/wide/public/image/JC_Moira_Head_opt_1.jpeg?itok=Cj75V6NU", "images": [ { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/wide/public/image/JC_Moira_Head_opt_1.jpeg?itok=Cj75V6NU", "height": "365", "width": "539" } ] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/c58dhau-landsborough/barrier-range/mt-hiwiroa": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/c58dhau-landsborough/barrier-range/mt-hiwiroa", "name": "Mt Hiwiroa", "altitude": "2281m", "access": null, "description": null, "latlng": [ "-44.14246597868", "169.71066676444" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/%C5%8Dhau-landsborough/barrier-range/mt-hiwiroa/west-face", "name": "West Face", "grade": "10,3,II", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": "3", "commitment": "II", "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": "10", "description": null } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": "From the west branch of the South Temple Valley at BZ14 384 085, gain height up the scree valley to the south west to reach the saddle into Watson Stream. Climb a grade 10 chimney to reach the summit snow patch.", "ascent": "Ross Cullen, April 1998" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/%C5%8Dhau-landsborough/barrier-range/mt-hiwiroa/east-ridge", "name": "East Ridge", "grade": "1+,II", "topo_ref": null, "image": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/route/hiwiroa_er.jpg?itok=kyU33_dU", "images": [ { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/route/hiwiroa_er.jpg?itok=kyU33_dU", "height": "194", "width": "261" } ], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": "1+", "commitment": "II", "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": null } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": "Cross the south branch of South Temple Stream before the gorge and ascend the forested spur on the true left of the south branch. Once open ground is reached, continue along the ridgeline to the\nsummit. The first ascent party did not use a rope. Seven hours from carpark to summit.", "ascent": "Ross Cullen, Nick Shearer, March 2006" } ], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki/liebig-range/coopers-mate": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki/liebig-range/coopers-mate", "name": "Coopers Mate", "altitude": "2280m", "access": null, "description": "tba", "latlng": [ "-43.52837205", "170.4183423" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki/liebig-range/coopers-mate/unnamed", "name": "Unnamed", "grade": "1", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "1", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "Gain the saddle east of the peak from either the Aida or Harper Glaciers. More direct routes from the Murchison Glacier exist." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "S Drake, W F Crawshaw, David Hall, Jan 1947" } ], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/arthurs-pass/shaler-range/mt-davie": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/arthurs-pass/shaler-range/mt-davie", "name": "Mt Davie", "altitude": "2280m", "access": null, "description": "Mt Davie was first climbed by the Arthur\u2019s Pass regulars Fred Kitchingham, Charles Ward and Arthur Talbot in 1912.", "latlng": [ "-42.96590716", "171.39332771" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/arthurs-pass/shaler-range/mt-davie/whitehorn-pass", "name": "From Whitehorn Pass", "grade": "2", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": "2", "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": null } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": "Ascend the easy snow slopes northeast of the pass, then take the very loose\nrock couloir leading to the Low Peak (2182m), or continue up the snow slopes\nto join the North Ridge. It is a relatively easy traverse to the summit,\nthough cornices and a couple of steep gendarmes may slow progress.", "ascent": null }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/arthurs-pass/shaler-range/mt-davie/cronin-stream", "name": "From Cronin Stream", "grade": "2", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": "2", "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": null } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": "From mid-way down Cronin Stream, ascend the long spur that appears to lead to\nthe Low Peak (2182m), however drop south onto the screes and snow slopes at\nthe first opportunity. Follow this snow tongue to the saddle between High and\nLow Peaks. Mt Davie is easily gained from here.", "ascent": null }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/arthurs-pass/shaler-range/mt-davie/kilmarnock-spur", "name": "Kilmarnock Spur", "grade": "2", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": "2", "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": null } ], "quality": 1, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": "From the White River, follow the stream issuing from the Kilmarnock Falls a\nshort distance, then climb to the spur separating the Kilmarnock basin from\nthe White Valley. The spur is followed to the summit, or an ascent can be\nmade from the basin direct to the peak.", "ascent": "Lieutenant G Dennistoun, R N, A P and E Harper, April 1912" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/arthurs-pass/shaler-range/mt-davie/south-ridge", "name": "South Ridge", "grade": "3", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": "3", "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": null } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": "Sidle around to the lower Cahill Glacier from Barker Hut. Avoid descending\nonto the lower rock slabs, instead using snow/scree ramps to reach the small\nbuttress on the true right, descending onto the Cahill Glacier icefall ramp\nbehind it (safer with ice/snow cover). Watch for stone fall from the bluffs\non the southwest. Ascend the head of the glacier to a col, using available\nsnow or ice ramps on the true left. These connect to the craggy South Ridge\nof Mt Davie. In early summer this route can be cut by a series of huge\nbergschrunds.", "ascent": null }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/arthurs-pass/shaler-range/mt-davie/cronin-stream-0", "name": "From Cronin Stream", "grade": null, "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "" } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": "From the upper Wilberforce River, follow Cronin Stream (see Whitehorn Pass).\nTake the couloir above the pass to the north ridge and follow this to the\nsummit.", "ascent": "Deryck Morse, B Morse, J Sampson, Geoff Chisholm, W Mechan, 1941" } ], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aspiring/main-divide/mt-maitland": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aspiring/main-divide/mt-maitland", "name": "Mt Maitland", "altitude": "2280m", "access": null, "description": null, "latlng": [ "-43.9604", "169.6243" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/%C5%8Dhau-landsborough/main-divide/mt-maitland/west-face", "name": "West Face", "grade": "2", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "2", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": null } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": "From a camp in the Hunter Valley West Branch, underneath Upper Studholme\nPass, climb the tussock slopes and rock to gain the summit.", "ascent": "John Chivers, Caroline Cotton, Rob Mitchell, Euan Warburton, Laurie White , January 1962" } ], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aspiring/snowdrift-range/mt-alpha": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aspiring/snowdrift-range/mt-alpha", "name": "Mt Alpha", "altitude": "2280m", "access": null, "description": "tba", "latlng": [ "-44.457364", "168.534545" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aspiring/snowdrift-range/mt-alpha/standard-routes", "name": "Standard Routes", "grade": null, "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "Climb either from Mt Beta along the ridge or by crossing the col between Mt Alpha and The Snowman and ascending from the middle Snowball \r\nGlacier. In each case, reach Mt Beta or the col via the Whitbourn Saddle, the Snow Dome and the east Snowball Glacier." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": null } ], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/nelson-lakes/travers-range/mt-hopeless": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/nelson-lakes/travers-range/mt-hopeless", "name": "Mt Hopeless", "altitude": "2278m", "access": "Cupola Basin Routes A marked track to Cupola Basin Hut leaves the Travers Valley at a small clearing. At 1370m and with spectacular views nearby the hut is well sited for climbs.\nHopeless Creek Routes A marked track leads from the Travers Valley to Hopeless Hut. A popular trip is to continue up the valley and across Sunset Saddle to Lake Angelus. This route angles up scree (the slopes above catch the sun early, beware of avalanches or ice cannonballs) to a ledge, which gains the crest of the cirque headwall. Continue past tarns to Sunset Saddle (see Sunset Saddle Route Mt Angelus).", "description": "A striking peak, especially when seen from Cupola Basin Hut, with a variety of routes. An excellent spring and early summer traverse is to climb the Hopeless Couloir and descend the South West Ridge or the Hopeless Creek route to Hopeless Hut. Reputedly named by an early survey party with a poor attitude.", "latlng": [ "-41.94744117", "172.73955824" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/nelson-lakes/travers-range/mt-hopeless/hopeless-creek-route", "name": "Hopeless Creek Route", "grade": "2", "topo_ref": "A", "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": "2", "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "Five minutes below Hopeless Hut cross to the true right of a side stream. Climb a steep cairned track on the true right to avoid a deep gorge. Beware of avalanche danger in spring (the route follows an obvious avalanche path). When the stream levels, climb through scrub to a series of narrow ribs (look for cairns here) which lead to an often snow-filled basin (map ref. M30/889178). Head south-west to a col in the east ridge (overlooking the Hopeless Couloir) then climb a gut angling to the Travers Range. In summer or in icy conditions, a safer alternative is to climb from the basin to the outlier peak to the north. A short scramble leads south to the summit. Mostly easy scrambling to the basin, but beware of loose rock (in summer) or winter ice in the gut above. A good descent route." } ], "quality": 1, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": null }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/nelson-lakes/travers-range/mt-hopeless/east-ridge", "name": "East Ridge", "grade": "1", "topo_ref": "B", "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": "1", "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "Twenty minutes up the Travers Valley from Hopeless Creek, leave the track and climb to the toe of a narrow scree chute which gives a direct route to the East Ridge. The ridge is long; difficult pinnacles and minor peaks can be turned on the north. Eventually the col in the Hopeless Creek route is reached." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": null }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/nelson-lakes/travers-range/mt-hopeless/north-east-ridge", "name": "North East Ridge", "grade": "1", "topo_ref": "C", "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": "1", "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "The ridge rises between the side-streams either side of Hopeless Hut, and is easily gained from a basin just north of the basin in the \r\nHopeless Creek Route. Spectacular views from here across huge rock faces in the next side stream above the hut. The ridge has been climbed but is difficult. From the top of the ridge, a narrow broken ridge joins it to the northern outlier peak of Hopeless. Gendarmes on this section can be turned via exposed ledges on either side, or else the broken ridge is avoided by descending a narrow couloir on the Sabine side and regaining the ridge just under the northern outlier." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": null }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/nelson-lakes/travers-range/mt-hopeless/north-ridge", "name": "North Ridge", "grade": "1", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": "1", "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "A difficult route with a huge gash, a steep face and sharp pinnacles to overcome. The ridge is easily gained from a tributary creek, 1km upstream from Hopeless Hut. Pleasant scrambling over minor peaks is halted at a deep gash. A difficult descent down a steep, smooth and exposed ledge reaches the gully on the Sabine side, below the gash, then from 30m below the gash climb mainly firm rock back to the ridge. An alternative is to descend from just north of the gash into the top of a large basin on the Hopeless Creek side, climb up to the gash and then cross over to climb rock on the Sabine side. Further along the ridge, a second, easier notch is crossed, and up to the top of the North East Ridge. Then follow the North East Ridge route to the summit." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "John Lawrence, David Witham, September 1966" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/nelson-lakes/travers-range/mt-hopeless/south-west-ridge", "name": "South West Ridge", "grade": "2", "topo_ref": "D", "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": "2", "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "From Cupola Basin Hut, ascend to a saddle on the Travers Range (just below Pt 1989) where the ridge begins. A series of sharp teeth can be turned on the west by descending a gut to a ledge, which angles back to a notch in the ridge. The summit pyramid is steep climbing on good rock. Boulders in a chimney can be turned by a tight crawl underneath." } ], "quality": 1, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Ian Powell and others, December 1933" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/nelson-lakes/travers-range/mt-hopeless/hopeless-couloir", "name": "Hopeless Couloir", "grade": "3", "topo_ref": "E", "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": "3", "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "This is one of the last remnants of the glaciers which carved the mountains and valleys of the park. During summer it becomes crevassed and is sometimes cut off. Beware of avalanche risk in winter. Sidle upwards to the bottom of the couloir from Cupola Basin Hut. The couloir is initially wide but narrows and steepens towards the top where a rope may be needed, and ends at the col in route 5.20. Alternatively, from a bivvy rock or campsites above the forest in the northern head of Cupola Creek climb bluffs to the bottom of the couloir. In winter, there is a technical frozen waterfall ice route (two pitches) on these bluffs." } ], "quality": 1, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "J Stanton, L J Dumbleton, October 1934" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/nelson-lakes/travers-range/mt-hopeless/south-east-buttress", "name": "South East Buttress", "grade": "1", "topo_ref": "F", "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": "1", "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "A striking rock buttress on the right of the couloir." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Graham McCallum, John Nankervis, Bryan Sissons" } ], "places": [], "image": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/wide/public/image/Screen%20shot%202011-06-29%20at%205.58.35%20PM.jpg?itok=hjCWEbEf", "images": [ { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/wide/public/image/Screen%20shot%202011-06-29%20at%205.58.35%20PM.jpg?itok=hjCWEbEf", "height": "681", "width": "506" }, { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/image/Screen%20shot%202011-06-29%20at%205.58.57%20PM.jpg?itok=tyLXkP54", "height": "225", "width": "325" }, { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/image/Screen%20shot%202011-06-29%20at%205.59.15%20PM.jpg?itok=138xn-4J", "height": "203", "width": "325" }, { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/image/Screen%20shot%202011-06-29%20at%205.59.40%20PM.jpg?itok=MVl4uPlZ", "height": "240", "width": "325" } ] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/canterbury-westland-alps/tensing-ridge/pt-2278": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/canterbury-westland-alps/tensing-ridge/pt-2278", "name": "Pt 2278", "altitude": "2278m", "access": null, "description": null, "latlng": [ "-43.302008", "170.707541" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/canterbury-westland-alps/tensing-ridge/pt-2278/beelzebub", "name": "From the Beelzebub", "grade": "1+", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "1+", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "Can be approached from the Beelzebub up steep snow slopes then a rock scramble." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "George H Thompson, Matt Fowlds, 1st Jan 1954." } ], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aspiring/main-divide/tongue-spur-summit": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aspiring/main-divide/tongue-spur-summit", "name": "Tongue Spur Summit", "altitude": "2278m", "access": null, "description": null, "latlng": [ "-43.97866124", "169.62377767" ], "routes": [], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/otago/huxley-range/chosspile-pk": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/otago/huxley-range/chosspile-pk", "name": "Chosspile Pk", "altitude": "2278m", "access": null, "description": "TBA", "latlng": [ "-44.0805275293", "169.659074926" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/otago/huxley-range/chosspile-pk/north-face", "name": "North Face", "grade": "2-", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "2-", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": null } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": "A direct ascent of the north face from the upper Ahuriri Valley.", "ascent": "Peter Dickson, March 1993" } ], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/%C5%8Dhau-landsborough/huxley-range/pt-2277": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/%C5%8Dhau-landsborough/huxley-range/pt-2277", "name": "Pt 2277", "altitude": "2277m", "access": null, "description": null, "latlng": [ "-44.151203916", "169.599949735" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/%C5%8Dhau-landsborough/huxley-range/pt-2277/hagens-hut", "name": "From Hagens Hut", "grade": null, "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": "From 200m south of Hagens Hut travel through the beech forest following a\nspur near Plughole Creek to reach the head of valley and climb couloir to the\nsummit.", "ascent": "Alan Dorin, Rob Laery, Greg Robinson, January 2005" } ], "places": [], "image": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/wide/public/image/p2277.jpg?itok=oMV9adtQ", "images": [ { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/wide/public/image/p2277.jpg?itok=oMV9adtQ", "height": "400", "width": "300" } ] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/%C5%8Dhau-landsborough/main-divide/mt-fraser": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/%C5%8Dhau-landsborough/main-divide/mt-fraser", "name": "Mt Fraser", "altitude": "2277m", "access": null, "description": null, "latlng": [ "-43.9348", "169.7578" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/%C5%8Dhau-landsborough/main-divide/mt-fraser/north-east-face", "name": "North East Face", "grade": "2", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "2", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": null } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": "From Fraser Col follow a crack across the north east face, then a series of\nledges to reach the summit ridge.", "ascent": "Fred Doidge, Rod Williams, Des de Terte January 1948" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/%C5%8Dhau-landsborough/main-divide/mt-fraser/rapid-travel", "name": "Rapid Travel", "grade": "4+", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "4+", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": null } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": "The only route on the impressive south face involves an ascent of a rock rib\nright of the summit to mid height, a traverse left well above the broken ice,\nand finishes via a steep ice line that reaches the ridge 25 m east of the\nsummit.", "ascent": "Geoff Gabites, Bill McLeod December 1993" } ], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/arthurs-pass/main-divide/mt-rolleston": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/arthurs-pass/main-divide/mt-rolleston", "name": "Mt Rolleston", "altitude": "2275m", "access": null, "description": null, "latlng": [ "-42.9113976", "171.51246071" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/arthurs-pass/main-divide/mt-rolleston/crow-valley", "name": "From Crow Valley", "grade": "2", "topo_ref": "1", "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": "2", "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "The usual route, after leaving the valley floor, is to climb towards the icefall and then travel beside it on the west until Crow n\u00e9v\u00e9 is reached. The two obvious gullies to the true right of the icefall are the best options, but beware of avalanches after fresh snowfall. In summer, large pinnacles of ice crash down the bluffs on the true left. Beware of hidden crevasses. \r\nFrom the Crow n\u00e9v\u00e9, all three peaks of Mt Rolleston are accessible. The summit ridge may be cut off by deep crevasses late in the season. The low peak is reached easily from the northeastern reaches of the n\u00e9v\u00e9 (the crux on this climb is the glacial ascent from the Crow valley)." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": null }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/arthurs-pass/main-divide/mt-rolleston/high-peak-crow-gl", "name": "High Peak from Crow Gl", "grade": "8,2", "topo_ref": "A", "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": "2", "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": "8", "description": "Ascended from the Crow neve by a myriad of rock gullies or aretes joining the West Ridge of High Peak. Most of these routes tend to be single pitch climbs dependant on snow ramp heights, and the presence of bergschrunds. Protection is sparse in summer conditions, however the rock grades are very low." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": null }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/arthurs-pass/main-divide/mt-rolleston/high-peak-direct-crow-gl", "name": "High Peak Direct from Crow Gl", "grade": "3", "topo_ref": "B", "image": null, "images": [], "length": "120m", "pitches": [ { "alpine": "3", "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": "120m", "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "A rock (summer) or ice (winter) route exists on the Southern Face directly below the summit of High Peak (2275m). Access is difficult due to the very large bergschrund at the base of the face. Ascent is made up a shallow diagonal gully directly to the peak. Protection is minimal in summer." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": null }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/arthurs-pass/main-divide/mt-rolleston/high-peak-crow-glacier", "name": "High Peak From Crow Glacier", "grade": "2", "topo_ref": "C", "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": "2", "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "Ascended easily using the Eastern Ridge from the col adjacent Middle Peak. Approach the col from directly below on the Crow neve to avoid at least some major crevasse zones. The first buttress on this ridge is turned on it\u2019s southern flank." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": null }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/arthurs-pass/main-divide/mt-rolleston/upper-waimakariri-col", "name": "From Upper Waimakariri Col", "grade": "2", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": "2", "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "climbed from the head of the valley near Waimakariri Col. Snow slopes lead up towards the neve of a glacier running north of MT ROLLESTON. Climb the obvious gully joining the Philistine Ridge, then 70m above the neve take the narrow, steep couloir (Sampson's) on the true left. This joins the Southwest Ridge after a climb of 120m. Traverse the short distance to High Peak. The peak may also be approached more directly by the broken rock buttresses of the Philistine Ridge." } ], "quality": 1, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": null }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/arthurs-pass/main-divide/mt-rolleston/philistine-rolleston-traverse", "name": "Philistine-Rolleston Traverse", "grade": "2", "topo_ref": null, "image": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/route/AP023.jpg?itok=-HZW65TG", "images": [ { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/route/AP023.jpg?itok=-HZW65TG", "height": "220", "width": "325" } ], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": "2", "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "Climbed by traversing the ridge from Mt Philistine (1967m), a very long climb generally on loose rock, with many obstacles. Most gendarmes can be turned on narrow ledges (catwalks). Beware of cornices in winter to late spring. Be prepared for a forced bivy should your start route to either summit be a face climb. Some ropework may be required." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": null } ], "places": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/arthurs-pass/main-divide/mt-rolleston/otira-face", "name": "Otira Face", "altitude": null, "access": null, "description": "For experienced parties, a diversity of routes may be taken up the 900m Otira Face of Mt Rolleston. Some of the routes are very difficult, and more often than not, the rock can be quite rotten in zones as determined by the obvious synclined strata!\nRoutes on the Otira Face of the Middle Peak are listed separately.", "latlng": [ "-42.905152", "171.513782" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/arthurs-pass/main-divide/mt-rolleston/otira-face/otira-couloir", "name": "Otira Couloir", "grade": "2", "topo_ref": "A", "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": "2", "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "This route leads up the dangerous central gut between High and Middle Peaks. It is prone to continuous avalanche activity in winter, and rockfall in summer. Climbers generally choose to join the Philistine Ridge near the upper snow basin." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": null }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/arthurs-pass/main-divide/mt-rolleston/otira-face/left-flank", "name": "Left Flank", "grade": "2", "topo_ref": "B", "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": "2", "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "From the snow/scree Field at the base of the Central Direct route keep moving left until the nose of a rocky arete is reached. Climb on generally exposed rock, with poor protection, to join the Philistine Ridge." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": null }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/arthurs-pass/main-divide/mt-rolleston/otira-face/central-direct", "name": "Central Direct", "grade": "2", "topo_ref": "C", "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": "2", "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "This route, on the right-hand side of the central gut is by far the most popular (not only because it tops out on High Peak). Most of the climb takes place on the prominent buttress that appears to lead directly to High Peak. The buttress is reached by climbing from the Otira Valley onto the permanent snow-field at its base, via either the loose green bluffs and ramps (adjacent the central gully), or better still the narrow couloir that joins the Philistine-Rolleston Ridge (a route in its own right). Routes on the buttress are many and varied. The rock is surprisingly solid, and the ensuing 500 metres is a climb to be relished. In contrast the next 200 metres is upon the stacked blocks and broken buttresses of the Philistine-Rolleston Ridge. The final 50 metres is good solid rock and is easily climbed to High Peak." } ], "quality": 1, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": null }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/arthurs-pass/main-divide/mt-rolleston/otira-face/westweg", "name": "Westweg", "grade": "15", "topo_ref": null, "image": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/route/IMG_0748%20%282%29_0.JPG?itok=xKzO1UJ0", "images": [ { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/route/IMG_0748%20%282%29_0.JPG?itok=xKzO1UJ0", "height": "244", "width": "325" }, { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/route/IMG_0748%20%2810%29.JPG?itok=mzVMfHt7", "height": "244", "width": "325" } ], "length": "150m", "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": "150m", "bolts": null, "trad": true, "ewbank": "15", "description": "The Central Direct ridge can be gained on its West side by a 150m long banana shaped corner rising above the snow field. The final 60 meters offers the best climbing on either face of the corner, offering either good rock and poor protection or loose rock and good protection." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": true, "description": null, "ascent": "Justin Hall, Hamish Castle, 25 February 2017" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/arthurs-pass/main-divide/mt-rolleston/otira-face/crocodile-rock", "name": "Crocodile Rock", "grade": "15", "topo_ref": null, "image": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/routes/Otira11.jpg?itok=JqGKqSJF", "images": [ { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/routes/Otira11.jpg?itok=JqGKqSJF", "height": "325", "width": "217" }, { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/routes/Otira21.jpg?itok=_T1td-Hr", "height": "217", "width": "325" }, { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/routes/Otira31.jpg?itok=p8AkJK1E", "height": "217", "width": "325" } ], "length": "300m", "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": "300m", "bolts": null, "trad": true, "ewbank": "15", "description": null } ], "quality": 1, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": true, "description": "A pair of diamond-shaped faces to the climber's right of Central Direct - in between Westweg and Headstone Gully.\nWould be surprised if they hadn't been climbed before - the faces are visible from the base of the Central Direct buttress. No claims of FA being made... but it deserved a mention even if just to point people toward the great climbing up that side.\nExcellent rock, and not just by AP standards!\nSplitter cracks!\nHand and foot jams!\nWould give it two stars but might get snapped at.\nGood fun on good crack.\nApproach as for Central Direct, but head climbers' right past the base of the buttress and scramble to the base of the faces. Hoover up the crack in the centre of the diamond-shaped face at grade ~15-16. Soloed on ascent but looked like it would eat up gear - small nuts, cams 0.5-1, potentially 2-3 in a short section of crack but here the angle has eased off. Continue up and over the top of the diamond and traverse left into the second face. This unfortunately misses the bottom of the second face, however to be fair it looks thin and difficult to protect.\nContinue up on more cracks (~14-15) until you meet and continue up the Philly-Rolly ridge to summit.", "ascent": "SC, GL, 20 March 2021" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/arthurs-pass/main-divide/mt-rolleston/otira-face/headstone-gully", "name": "Headstone Gully", "grade": "2+", "topo_ref": null, "image": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/route/image14.jpg?itok=LbJrjgpU", "images": [ { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/route/image14.jpg?itok=LbJrjgpU", "height": "325", "width": "244" } ], "length": "250m", "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "2+", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": "250m", "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "The route follows the gully to the right of the access for Central Direct (Mt Rolleston -Otira Face). Climb to the top of the scree slope at the base of the climb and join the gully from there. The climbing on the lower half of the route is on reasonably solid rock and is relatively straightforward. The rock gets looser as you approach the prominent overhang/ roof at about 2/3 height, there is possibilities for good anchor on right hand side of overhang (small cams helpful e.g. .5 camalot and smaller). Climb around overhang via weakness on wall at right side (crux), this section is tricky but is protectable and leads to easier ground. A couple of short scree tiers lead to the final gully system. Climb these gullies to the ridge top. The top gullies are insecure and offer limited chance for protection. Climb to summit via Philistine-Rolleston Ridge" } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Matt Sheat & Alan Haslip 30/4/2011" } ], "places": [], "image": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/wide/public/image/AP023_2.jpg?itok=SZHhG8b1", "images": [ { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/wide/public/image/AP023_2.jpg?itok=SZHhG8b1", "height": "481", "width": "709" }, { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/image/Otira%20_Face_Summer.JPG?itok=WFLUNYbN", "height": "217", "width": "325" } ] } ], "image": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/wide/public/image/AP001_0.jpg?itok=961mgUBa", "images": [ { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/wide/public/image/AP001_0.jpg?itok=961mgUBa", "height": "442", "width": "709" }, { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/image/crow%2520glacier%2520icefall-routemark_1_0.jpg?itok=-iqH89ra", "height": "244", "width": "325" } ] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/arthurs-pass/shaler-range/mt-wakeman": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/arthurs-pass/shaler-range/mt-wakeman", "name": "Mt Wakeman", "altitude": "2271m", "access": null, "description": "TBA", "latlng": [ "-42.99774228", "171.38010979" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/arthurs-pass/shaler-range/mt-wakeman/marmaduke-dixon-glacier", "name": "From Marmaduke Dixon Glacier", "grade": "1+", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "1+", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "Climb to the col (sometimes corniced to the east) on the spur between the Marmaduke Dixon Glacier and a feeder n\u00e9v\u00e9 of the White Glacier. Cross this steep n\u00e9v\u00e9 to the summit.\r\nThe rocky North Ridge to the true left of the col may also be traversed to the peak, however a traverse on the full ridge from the col adjacent the 2108m point tends to become a full day outing." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": null }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/arthurs-pass/shaler-range/mt-wakeman/northeast-ridge", "name": "Northeast Ridge", "grade": "14,3+,IV,3", "topo_ref": "E1468531 N5238662", "image": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/2024-02/Wakeman_SAT_NE_Ridge_2000.jpg?itok=u7scK0om", "images": [ { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/2024-02/Wakeman_SAT_NE_Ridge_2000.jpg?itok=u7scK0om", "height": "189", "width": "325" }, { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/2024-02/NE_Ridge_Crux_Area.jpg?itok=ZxFeGTlM", "height": "244", "width": "325" } ], "length": "15m", "pitches": [ { "alpine": "3+", "commitment": "IV", "mtcook": "3", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": "15m", "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": "14", "description": "The crux of this this ridge climb is met at a set of ridge pinnacles before the final ascent onto the 2189m point. The final pinnacle is not climbable. The solution is to drop down onto the north face of the ridge, sidling underneath the pinnacle via a network of crumbly catwalks/ledges and reascending 15m vertically back to the ridge; this is also the most exposed part of the route." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": "0", "natural_pro": false, "description": "Full route length: 1600m\nTotal ascent height: 620m\nFrom Barker Hut commence heading towards the Marmaduke Dixon Glacier route, however stay to the left-hand side of the large rock buttress south of the glacier. Ascend the boulder strewn scree slope to its highest point at a gut running in from the left, scramble on slabs, up and initially leftwards, before climbing the centre of the face using good interconnecting slabs to join the northeast ridge at 2020m with a view towards the tarns northwest of the ridge. Continue to follow the ridge.\nThe section of ridge below the 2189m point is extremely narrow (only space for feet and hands) with considerable exposure on both sides. Several rotten pinnacles are met on this section of ridge, most can be climbed over, however the final pinnacle is not climbable. The solution is to drop down onto the north face of the ridge, sidling underneath the pinnacle via a network of crumbly catwalks/ledges and reascending 15m vertically back to the ridge; this is the most exposed part of the route. Continue scrambling to the 2189m point, following the ridge to join the standard Marmaduke Dixon Glacier route at a steep gully (usually ice) descending onto the ice-field north of the summit. Cross the ice-field, climbing onto the steep, loose northeast spur that ascends to the summit rocks.", "ascent": "Dave Hegan 11 February 2024" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/arthurs-pass/shaler-range/mt-wakeman/white-glacier", "name": "From White Glacier", "grade": "3", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "3", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "Approached directly from the n\u00e9v\u00e9 of the White Glacier by the wide, steep feeder snowfield below the summit. In early summer this route is avalanche swept, and by late summer a bergschrund and rock cliff bar access midway. Certainly not a winter route!" } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "J P Wilson, A Anderson, 16 December 1930" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/arthurs-pass/shaler-range/mt-wakeman/north-east-slabs-hug-ginga", "name": "North East Slabs: Hug a Ginga", "grade": "15", "topo_ref": null, "image": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/route/image13.jpg?itok=GSQZpj08", "images": [ { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/route/image13.jpg?itok=GSQZpj08", "height": "244", "width": "325" } ], "length": "200m", "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": "200m", "bolts": null, "trad": true, "ewbank": "15", "description": "" } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": true, "description": "This route is near Barker Hut. Located at the north-eastern end (lowest\npoint) of a outlier summit (2189m) on the North East Ridge. The\norange-coloured, triangle-shaped buttress can be seen directly out the\nwest-facing window of Barker Hut. Walk for about 30 minutes from the hut up\ntowards the Marmaduke Dixon Glacier. The climb starts once past some steep,\nsmooth rock with vertical cracks (good options also) and then a broken,\nrust-coloured gully. Climb up slabs with short steep sections for two pitches\n(grade 15 with good protection), then easier climbing up to grade 14 through\nfantastic orange rock for another three pitches. Either scramble up from\nthere to the outlier summit, or angle easily down a scree ledge system back\ninto the basin opposite the Marmaduke Dixon Glacier.", "ascent": "John Price, Paul Hersey, 27 November 2010" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/arthurs-pass/shaler-range/mt-wakeman/north-east-slabs-gingernuts", "name": "North East Slabs: Gingernuts", "grade": "15", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": "200m", "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": "200m", "bolts": null, "trad": true, "ewbank": "15", "description": "To the (climber\u2019s) right of Hug-a-Ginga, starts up the vague crack/slab system slanting out right. Gear generally plentiful, climbing very mellow.\r\n\u2013 Easy climbing but on sometimes broken rock (14).\r\n\u2013 From the base of the distinctive orange face with multiple vertical cracks, take the rightmost crack (or another, at probably a higher grade) then continue up balancey slabs on generally good rock to the base of the steep headwall with obvious big cracks (15/16 depending on crack taken at orange face).\r\n\u2013 Move to the climber\u2019s right around the headwall and climb the slabs to the top of the bulge. \r\n\u2013 From here scramble to the top of the outlier peak (14).\r\nIf abseiling the route, note rap points carefully on ascent as good ones are hard to find (smooth domes of doom)." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": true, "description": null, "ascent": "Sooji Clarkson, Eric Skea, 21 October 2018" } ], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aspiring/forbes-mountains/ellie-pk": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aspiring/forbes-mountains/ellie-pk", "name": "Ellie Pk", "altitude": "2271m", "access": null, "description": "First climbed by H F Wright in 1914.", "latlng": [ "-44.554635", "168.449711" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aspiring/forbes-mountains/ellie-pk/south-west-ridge", "name": "South West Ridge", "grade": "I,1", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": "I", "mtcook": "1", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "Gain the South East Ridge on Moira Peak from either the North or West Hunter (see Route 11), then traverse under Moira Peak to the col between Moira Peak and Ellie Peak. Continue up the ridge." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": null } ], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/westland/maximilian-range/mt-alec": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/westland/maximilian-range/mt-alec", "name": "Mt Alec", "altitude": "2269m", "access": null, "description": "na", "latlng": [ "-43.449679", "170.343533" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/westland/maximilian-range/mt-alec/east-face", "name": "East Face", "grade": "1+", "topo_ref": "EF", "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "1+", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "From Whymper Hut, follow the gully draining between Mt Wilczek and Mt Alec, then snowfields\r\nbeyond Pt 1573 metres up towards the Maximilian Range." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "D Dawe, R Evans (from the Leonard Glacier), January 1954" } ], "places": [], "image": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/wide/public/image/Alec_0.png?itok=cGT970ma", "images": [ { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/wide/public/image/Alec_0.png?itok=cGT970ma", "height": "576", "width": "900" } ] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/canterbury/two-thumb-range/graf-spee": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/canterbury/two-thumb-range/graf-spee", "name": "Graf Spee", "altitude": "2267m", "access": null, "description": "tba", "latlng": [ "-43.54228462", "170.6735387" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/canterbury/two-thumb-range/graf-spee/south-west-ridge", "name": "South West Ridge", "grade": "1-", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "Make a straightforward climb to Plata Col, and then wander along the ridge in an upward\r\ndirection." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Jenny Caine, Nel Caine, January 1967" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/canterbury/two-thumb-range/graf-spee/south-east-ridge", "name": "South East Ridge", "grade": "1+", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "1+", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "Climb easy slopes to Balaclava Saddle at the head of North East Gorge Stream and from here\r\nscramble up the South East Ridge to the summit." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": null } ], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/c58dhau-landsborough/barrier-range/belfry-pk": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/c58dhau-landsborough/barrier-range/belfry-pk", "name": "Belfry Pk", "altitude": "2266m", "access": null, "description": null, "latlng": [ "-44.07926464", "169.75285748" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/%C5%8Dhau-landsborough/barrier-range/pt-2266/north-face", "name": "North Face", "grade": "1", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "1", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": null } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": "Easy approach from the South Huxley, but steep and shattered rock near the\nsummit.", "ascent": "First ascent unknown" } ], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aspiring/waipara-range/mt-ionia": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aspiring/waipara-range/mt-ionia", "name": "Mt Ionia", "altitude": "2266m", "access": null, "description": null, "latlng": [ "-44.36951301", "168.58412339" ], "routes": [], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/c58dhau-landsborough/paringa-moeraki-mountains/mt-mccullaugh": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/c58dhau-landsborough/paringa-moeraki-mountains/mt-mccullaugh", "name": "Mt McCullaugh", "altitude": "2266m", "access": null, "description": null, "latlng": [ "-43.82983758", "169.61723381" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/westland/hooker-range/mt-mccullaugh/north-ridge", "name": "North Ridge", "grade": "2,III", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": "0m", "pitches": [ { "alpine": "2", "commitment": "III", "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": null } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": "0", "natural_pro": false, "description": "Readily accessible from near the head of Jacks Creek. Sidle past Lantern Peak to reach the extensive snowfields north of the peak. From here is is an easy climb to the summit.", "ascent": "Bruce Popplewell, Bill Stephenson, January 1965" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/westland/hooker-range/mt-mccullaugh/west-ridge", "name": "West Ridge", "grade": "1+,II", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": "0m", "pitches": [ { "alpine": "1+", "commitment": "II", "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": null } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": "0", "natural_pro": false, "description": "From the Tunnel Creek rock bivvy, sidle initially on the south side of the ridge on easy slopes. Cross over to the northern side, usually at BY14 271 413 although this depends on conditions. Regain the ridge and scramble up to the summit.", "ascent": null }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/westland/hooker-range/mt-mccullaugh/south-face", "name": "South Face", "grade": "1+,II", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": "0m", "pitches": [ { "alpine": "1+", "commitment": "II", "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": null } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": "0", "natural_pro": false, "description": "Negotiate easy but crevassed slopes to within a few metres of the summit, which is then most easily reached from the eastern side.\nTo gain the glacier from Murdock Creek, and sidle west above the bushline and up easy slopes.\nFrom McCullaugh Creek, sidle east above the bushline between 1000m and 1100m contours until overlooking Murdock Creek, then climb tussock terraces above an unnamed creek on the true right Murdock Creek.", "ascent": "Jack Aitken, Jack Gillespie, Eric Miller, Alma Mitchell, M Sutherland, January 1944" } ], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aspiring/haast-range/mainroyal": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aspiring/haast-range/mainroyal", "name": "Mainroyal", "altitude": "2266m", "access": null, "description": "tba", "latlng": [ "-44.353443", "168.718402" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aspiring/haast-range/mainroyal/north-ridge", "name": "North Ridge", "grade": "II,1", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": "II", "mtcook": "1", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "Traverse north across the Iso and Dipso Glaciers at about the same level as the hut, until the col between Skyscraper and Mainroyal is reached. A few minutes easy climbing up the rocky ridge leads to the summit, about 2.5 hours from the Colin Todd Hut." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Paul Powell, Leo Faigan, Jack Ede, Gerry Wall, December 1948" } ], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki/malte-brun-range/mt-turnbull": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki/malte-brun-range/mt-turnbull", "name": "Mt Turnbull", "altitude": "2265m", "access": null, "description": "Easily climbed from beside the Turnbull Glacier. Many ascents have been made from all directions.\n(Possibly) Tom Fyfe, Mar 1894.\n(or J W Brown, Malcolm Ross, Miss J E Turnbull, Feb 1910.)", "latlng": [ "-43.543014", "170.300133" ], "routes": [], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki/main-divide/madonna-pk": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki/main-divide/madonna-pk", "name": "Madonna Pk", "altitude": "2265m", "access": null, "description": null, "latlng": [ "-43.66091757", "170.09033203" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki/main-divide/madonna-pk/standard-route", "name": "Standard Route", "grade": "2-", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "2-", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "Via the ridge behind the Hooker Hut or traverse from the Copland Pass." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Jack Clarke, J E Walker, Hugh Wright, Jan 1911." } ], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/%C5%8Dhau-landsborough/main-divide/mt-dobson": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/%C5%8Dhau-landsborough/main-divide/mt-dobson", "name": "Mt Dobson", "altitude": "2265m", "access": null, "description": null, "latlng": [ "-43.9236", "169.7571" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/%C5%8Dhau-landsborough/main-divide/mt-dobson/along-divide", "name": "Along the Divide", "grade": "1", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "1", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": null } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": "Easy travel along the divide to the peak.", "ascent": null }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/%C5%8Dhau-landsborough/main-divide/mt-dobson/upper-dobson-stream", "name": "From Upper Dobson Stream", "grade": "2-", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "2-", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": null } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": "Climb along the Main Divide from upper Dobson Stream.", "ascent": "Graham Burns, BrianWyn Irwin, Christopher Johnson, Scott Russell, January 1933" } ], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aspiring/main-divide/pickelhaube": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aspiring/main-divide/pickelhaube", "name": "Pickelhaube", "altitude": "2265m", "access": null, "description": "\u2018Is it a new sauce invented to make rabbit stew more palatable?\u2019 mused Mr Explorer Charlie Douglas back in 1891. Ingenious but wrong, the name in fact refers to a distinctively shaped German helmet.", "latlng": [ "-44.320799", "168.832607" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aspiring/main-divide/pickelhaube/north-east-ridge", "name": "North East Ridge", "grade": "II,2", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": "0m", "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": "II", "mtcook": "2", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": null } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": "0", "natural_pro": false, "description": "Follow the ridge up from Pearson Saddle, for a time sidling on the Matukituki side until the ridge can be regained by a steep rock couloir. A mixed snow and rock ridge then leads up to the summit rocks with a final steep snow slope below the peak.\nThe climb would probably take about five hours from the saddle. The North East ridge could also be reached by the subsidiary ridge rising from the Wilkin-East Matukituki saddle.", "ascent": "Martin Lush, Ralph Markby, Cliff Anderson, Bill Brooks, Wilf Broughton, December 1948" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aspiring/main-divide/pickelhaube/north-west-ridge", "name": "North West Ridge", "grade": "II,2", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": "0m", "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": "II", "mtcook": "2", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": null } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": "0", "natural_pro": false, "description": "The North West Ridge may be reached from Pearson Saddle by climbing scree and snow slopes to reach the ridge between Pickelhaube and the unnamed peak to the west. Although the ridge does not appear to have been climbed, it looks a straightforward rock ridge and would probably take about five hours from Pearson Saddle. The ridge could also be reached without difficulty from the Volta N\u00e9v\u00e9.", "ascent": null }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aspiring/main-divide/pickelhaube/south-east-ridge", "name": "South East Ridge", "grade": "II,2", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": "II", "mtcook": "2", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": null } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": "Begin by climbing the North East ridge from Pearson Saddle before sidling\nacross snow slopes on the Matukituki face to gain the South East ridge via a\nsteep rock couloir. This ridge then leads up to a rock step and the final\nsteep snow slope below the summit. This ridge can be easily gained from the\nVolta Glacier.", "ascent": "Martin Lush, Ralph Markby, Cliff Anderson, Bill Brooks & Wilf Broughton, Dec 1948" } ], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/%C5%8Dhau-landsborough/huxley-range/pt-2265": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/%C5%8Dhau-landsborough/huxley-range/pt-2265", "name": "Pt 2265", "altitude": "2265m", "access": null, "description": null, "latlng": [ "-44.03", "169.7147" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/%C5%8Dhau-landsborough/huxley-range/pt-2265/north-east-face", "name": "North East Face", "grade": "2", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "2", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": null } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": "Straightforward rock scramble and short step snow gut.", "ascent": "Paul Hersey May 2006" } ], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/c58dhau-landsborough/ben-ohau-range/backbone-pk": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/c58dhau-landsborough/ben-ohau-range/backbone-pk", "name": "Backbone Pk", "altitude": "2263m", "access": null, "description": null, "latlng": [ "-44.07334623", "169.94948074" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/%C5%8Dhau-landsborough/ben-ohau-range/backbone-pk/gladstone-stream", "name": "From Gladstone Stream", "grade": "1,I", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": "1", "commitment": "I", "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": null } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": "From the head of Gladstone Stream climb the broken east ridge to the summit. Alternatively, gain the hanging valley to the south of the summit and climb the south-west ridge.", "ascent": "First ascent unknown" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/%C5%8Dhau-landsborough/ben-ohau-range/backbone-pk/west-ridge", "name": "West Ridge", "grade": "1,I", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": "1", "commitment": "I", "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": null } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": "From the lower Dobson Valley, grind up the scree slopes on the western flanks to the summit.", "ascent": "First ascent unknown" } ], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/nelson-lakes/ella-range/mt-ella": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/nelson-lakes/ella-range/mt-ella", "name": "Mt Ella", "altitude": "2263m", "access": null, "description": "Ella has three summits; a rope may be needed for the middle and south summits. The middle one is a split pinnacle climbed via a chimney. The southern, highest summit is climbed by a ledge on its eastern side, which can be reached from the snowfield via a col south of the peak.", "latlng": [ "-42.08110287", "172.57945339" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/nelson-lakes/ella-range/mt-ella/durville-route", "name": "D'Urville Route", "grade": "2", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": "2", "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "A major stream above George Lyon Hut falls from a large basin. Waterfalls are by-passed on the true right bank. Scree leads to a saddle in the ridge between Ella and point 1951, overlooking a small glacial remnant. From the saddle head south-west then across a permanent snowfield and up to the northern summit." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": null }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/nelson-lakes/ella-range/mt-ella/north-ridge-and-peak-2189m", "name": "North Ridge and Peak 2189m", "grade": "1", "topo_ref": "A", "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": "1", "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "Long routes lead over Crag and up to Peak 2189 (used on the first ascent of Ella), or from the tops south of Peak Creek, but it is easier to reach Pk 2189 from the head of McKellar Stream. Traverse the Ella Range from here." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "B C H Moss, J F Foster, E Chittenden, April 1952." }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/nelson-lakes/ella-range/mt-ella/ella-traverse", "name": "Ella Traverse", "grade": "3", "topo_ref": "C", "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": "3", "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "Angle north-east up a prominent gully on the McKellar Stream face to reach the North Ridge, and follow it to the north summit and trig. The middle peak is a split pinnacle, climbed via a chimney. The south summit is climbed via a ledge on the D\u2019Urville side. A rope should be used for the traverse. Descend by any suitable gully." } ], "quality": 1, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": null }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/nelson-lakes/ella-range/mt-ella/west-face", "name": "West Face", "grade": "2", "topo_ref": "C", "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": "2", "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "A marked track up McKellar Stream gives access to the West Face. From the end of the track angle south-east up scree on the face to a saddle (1966m) below the south ridge. Climb up to the south (high) peak. Turn its steep southern face on the D'Urville side. Direct routes on the face are possible in winter." } ], "quality": 1, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": null } ], "places": [], "image": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/wide/public/image/Screen%20shot%202011-06-29%20at%206.02.16%20PM.jpg?itok=7vAjEq-i", "images": [ { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/wide/public/image/Screen%20shot%202011-06-29%20at%206.02.16%20PM.jpg?itok=7vAjEq-i", "height": "482", "width": "636" } ] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/darrans/darran-mountains/mt-crosscut": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/darrans/darran-mountains/mt-crosscut", "name": "Mt Crosscut", "altitude": "2263m", "access": "All the peaks were first climbed via the bluffs opposite Homer Hut: climb tussock slopes to the left-hand gully, moving up right to the second gully and the snowfields above.\nDescent down the bluffs can be difficult in snow or poor visibility.", "description": "Mt Crosscut\u2019s four peaks have a variety of climbing close to Homer Hut. In summer the peaks are good long moderate alpine routes; in winter, the southern aspects in Cirque Creek hold the test pieces of Darrans winter climbing. The East Pk can also be reached by long routes from the Marian valley.", "latlng": null, "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/darrans/darran-mountains/mt-crosscut/crosscut-traverse", "name": "Crosscut Traverse", "grade": null, "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": "0m", "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "Traverse all four peaks from west to east, saving the best climbing for last. Descend via Barrier\u2013Crosscut Col." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": "0", "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Austin Brookes, Archie Simpson, 1963 or 1964" } ], "places": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/darrans/darran-mountains/mt-crosscut/mt-crosscut-west-pk", "name": "Mt Crosscut West Pk", "altitude": "2203m", "access": null, "description": null, "latlng": [ "-44.76793751", "168.02992756" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/darrans/darran-mountains/mt-crosscut/mt-crosscut-west-pk/west-ridge", "name": "West Ridge", "grade": "9,II", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": "II", "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": "9", "description": "Just across from Homer Hut climb tussock slopes to the left-hand gully, moving up right to the second gully and the snowfields above. The ridge itself is a pleasant scramble over loose blocks to the summit.\r\nDescending the lower bluffs can be difficult in snow or at night." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "George Moir, Ken Roberts, Bob Sinclair, January 1923" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/darrans/darran-mountains/mt-crosscut/mt-crosscut-west-pk/cul-de-sac", "name": "Cul de Sac", "grade": "5,VI", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": "5", "commitment": "VI", "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "This is the gully on the left of the Lindsay Stewart Buttress, 1500m to the summit. The first section to the shoulder of the Lindsay Stewart Buttress is around 65 to 80 degrees and conditions dictate whether it is climbable as this is where unconsolidated snow can lie, and without protection becomes a voyage of the damned. From the shoulder up to the Cul de sac is lower angled, around 50-60 degrees and requires a \u2018grind it down\u2019 attitude. These pitches could be simul-climbed by a confident party. In the cul de sac there are two to three more technical pitches before the final gully to the summit.\r\nIt is one of the great classic climbs in New Zealand and rivals a lot of similar routes in the Aoraki/Mt Cook area for comparable steepness and length. Most parties pitching all the route could expect to bivvy somewhere. Stories of climbers ending up near the top without bivvy gear and shivering away a winters\u2019 night are common, and in the style of the first ascent. There are no easy descent routes that could be attempted in the dark. However if the Crosscut Bluff descent is in good condition, avalanche wise and there is a full moon it could almost be pleasant.\r\nThe first section was climbed by Doug Warren and Ken Calder in 1973. Merv English solo to the shoulder, Bill McLeod soloed the full route in a day from Homer hut." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Geoff Gabites, Nigel Perry, Duncan Ritchie, Calum Hudson, June 1982" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/darrans/darran-mountains/mt-crosscut/mt-crosscut-west-pk/lindsay-stewart-buttress", "name": "Lindsay Stewart Buttress", "grade": null, "topo_ref": "1", "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "Take the prominent rib from Cirque Creek to the West Peak, generally following the crest of the rib. The rock is shattered and dangerous in places." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Lindsay Stewart, Don Stewart, Harold Jacobs, April 1967" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/darrans/darran-mountains/mt-crosscut/mt-crosscut-west-pk/wrongest-day", "name": "The Wrongest Day", "grade": "20", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": "385m", "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": "50m", "bolts": null, "trad": true, "ewbank": "16", "description": "Onto the mosaic, step right onto buttress, slabby moves then slightly right into a groove and up to spike belay." }, { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": "35m", "bolts": null, "trad": true, "ewbank": null, "description": "Easily up to the base of the pillars. Belay directly below a major V-corner with buttercups and a white-vein crack on the right wall." }, { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": "45m", "bolts": null, "trad": true, "ewbank": "19", "description": "Weave diagonally left at about 45 degrees across the broken face, heading towards the hanging, cracked slab on the distant skyline (a major landmark in the top middle of the face). A small pillar is the crux. Belay ledge is left of shallow left-facing corner." }, { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": "40m", "bolts": null, "trad": true, "ewbank": "19", "description": "Corner, which switches to right-facing with an off-width section (poor chockstone runner), then easier to long rubble ledge which runs across right to main buttress below a fresh fractured wall (a bypass pitch may go more easily up groove to left of corner)." }, { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": "15m", "bolts": null, "trad": true, "ewbank": "19", "description": "Tricky moves in shallow finger-corners to low-angle slab below a deep corner with razor blade flake on its right wall and a tottering spike up higher." }, { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": "15m", "bolts": null, "trad": true, "ewbank": "13", "description": "Avoid corner by climbing down left, across and up onto buttress." }, { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": "45m", "bolts": null, "trad": true, "ewbank": "20", "description": "A long, left-slanting groove line, past a layback block, short chimney and devious move left across slab." }, { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": "40m", "bolts": null, "trad": true, "ewbank": "18", "description": "Shallow corner with very sharp fist section, then easier to slopey section leading right.\r\nSeveral possible lines lie above, but if it\u2019s getting dark, escape right." }, { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": "60m", "bolts": null, "trad": true, "ewbank": "14", "description": "Traverse right across slabs to above ridgeline, climb down onto ridge, down loose rock slope and traverse right into rubble gully.\r\nScramble up gully and buttress on right until confronted by a small spire and steep crack (might do better by scrambling further left)." }, { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": "40m", "bolts": null, "trad": true, "ewbank": "15", "description": "Spire and crack then chasm on right, around left and up to flat step in ridge.\r\nScramble direct to summit." } ], "quality": 1, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": true, "description": "The south-west face. The upper right part of the face is made up of several\nclean grey pillars, with many cracks. The climb goes up the highest part of\nthe face, immediately left of the second pillar from the right. A sustained\nclimb with excellent sharp rock, mostly good protection and a poor finish.\nPitch lengths are approximate. Map ref: NZTopo50 CB09 066 306\nAccess from the hut is either along the upper edge of the snowfield/glacier,\nor by skirting the lower edge of the snowfield and then scrambling up the\nthick seam of white granite on its right edge. Belay where the face steepens,\njust above the white seam and beside a small buttress with a mosaic of cracks\non its left side.", "ascent": "Tom Williams, Ian Brown, 27 February 2012" } ], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/darrans/darran-mountains/mt-crosscut/mt-crosscut-middle-pk", "name": "Mt Crosscut Middle Pk", "altitude": "2250m", "access": null, "description": null, "latlng": [ "-44.7657", "168.0308" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/darrans/darran-mountains/mt-crosscut/mt-crosscut-middle-pk/original-line", "name": "Original Line", "grade": null, "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Bart Challis, Lindsay Stewart, January 1934" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/darrans/darran-mountains/mt-crosscut/mt-crosscut-middle-pk/dislocation-ar%C3%AAte", "name": "Dislocation Ar\u00eate", "grade": null, "topo_ref": "2", "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "From Cirque Creek, take the rib right of the Lindsay Stewart Buttress to the Middle Peak. One of the first routes to be given a name, on account of an unfortunate accident." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Athol Abrams, Chuck Schaap, Jon Waugh, March 1968" } ], "places": [], "image": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/wide/public/image/D136_0.jpg?itok=xVbR3aKi", "images": [ { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/wide/public/image/D136_0.jpg?itok=xVbR3aKi", "height": "567", "width": "428" } ] }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/darrans/darran-mountains/mt-crosscut/mt-crosscut-second-pk", "name": "Mt Crosscut Second Pk", "altitude": "2252m", "access": null, "description": "Between the Middle and East Peaks", "latlng": [ "-44.766327", "168.037842" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/fiordland/darran-mountains/mt-crosscut/mt-crosscut-second-pk/original-route", "name": "Original Route", "grade": null, "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "A traverse from the East Pk to Second Pk." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Bill Gordon, Jim McFarlane, Lloyd Warburton, Duncan Wilson, December 1953" } ], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/darrans/darran-mountains/mt-crosscut/mt-crosscut-east-pk", "name": "Mt Crosscut East Pk", "altitude": "2263m", "access": null, "description": "The highest of Mt Crosscut\u2019s four peaks.", "latlng": [ "-44.76559781", "168.0405704" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/darrans/darran-mountains/mt-crosscut/mt-crosscut-east-pk/original-line", "name": "Original Line", "grade": null, "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": "Climb the bluffs above Homer Hut and traverse the snowfields, then climb to the East Peak.", "ascent": "T N Beckett, Gordon Speden, Hallum Smith, E Rich, December 1936" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/darrans/darran-mountains/mt-crosscut/mt-crosscut-east-pk/south-east-ridge", "name": "South East Ridge", "grade": null, "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": "At the head of Cirque Creek climb straight up, climb left, up again, then traverse right and up to the col at the base of the South East Ridge which is followed to the summit of the East Peak.", "ascent": "Bill Gordon, Ralph Miller, Bill Blee, January 1955" } ], "places": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/darrans/darran-mountains/mt-crosscut/mt-crosscut-east-pk/east-face", "name": "East Face", "altitude": null, "access": "All the routes on the east face can be accessed from the last tussock and scree slope at the head of the lower Marian Valley, up this slope to some steep tussock trending left to a broad ledge.", "description": null, "latlng": null, "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/darrans/darran-mountains/mt-crosscut/mt-crosscut-east-pk/east-face/marian-buttress", "name": "Marian Buttress", "grade": null, "topo_ref": "1", "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": "The prominent buttress seen from the lake. Good climbing, albeit with some poor rock lower down.", "ascent": "Harold Jacobs, Murray Jones, 23 December 1965" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/darrans/darran-mountains/mt-crosscut/mt-crosscut-east-pk/east-face/east-face-direct", "name": "East Face Direct", "grade": null, "topo_ref": "2", "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": "Cross the broad ledge, but before reaching the buttress climb the East Face to the East Peak of Crosscut. The first ascent party gained the east ridge just past the top of the Marian Buttress. A later party (Moore and Bennett, 1973) climbed the left side of the face to about half height, traversed a sloping ledge and continued up the right side of the face to a prominent gendarme on the north east ridge.", "ascent": "Ron Dickie, Ken Hamilton, Noel Wilson, February 1968" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/darrans/darran-mountains/mt-crosscut/mt-crosscut-east-pk/east-face/north-east-ridge", "name": "North East Ridge", "grade": null, "topo_ref": "3", "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": "Instead of traversing across the broad ledge, climb straight up a snow-field on to the North East Ridge of Mt Crosscut. This ridge leads to to the East Peak, although the first ascent party climbed to the Middle Pk.", "ascent": "Ralph Miller, Bob Cuthill, Lloyd Warburton, Duncan Wilson, Gerry Hall-Jones, 1955" } ], "places": [], "image": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/wide/public/image/Mt%20Crosscut%20East%20Face.jpg?itok=lQ2AXi8U", "images": [ { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/wide/public/image/Mt%20Crosscut%20East%20Face.jpg?itok=lQ2AXi8U", "height": "727", "width": "1090" } ] } ], "image": null, "images": [] }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/darrans/darran-mountains/mt-crosscut/west-face", "name": "West Face", "altitude": null, "access": null, "description": "Above the Gertrude Valley", "latlng": null, "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/darrans/darran-mountains/mt-crosscut/west-face/orchasm", "name": "Orchasm", "grade": null, "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "Traverse in from below the Barrier-Crosscut Col to the base of the buttress on the right of the waterfall cleft. Six pitches of good rock and lots of scrambling to the Crosscut snowfield." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Jennie Gallagher, Richard Thomson, Dave Vass, Feb 1991." }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/darrans/darran-mountains/mt-crosscut/west-face/clothes-line", "name": "Clothes Line", "grade": "20", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": true, "ewbank": "20", "description": "Inside the gully of Orchasm.\r\nTwo roped pitches. Follow the face to below an overhang, then to a corner where the skyline ar\u00eate steepens." }, { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": true, "ewbank": "18", "description": "Follow steepening ar\u00eate a short way to the top; sling abseil. Surprisingly good climbing on sparse gear - take some pitons for pro. Carry on through exposed scrambling to the snowfields above." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": true, "description": null, "ascent": "Keith Riley, Rob Wigley, Jan 2000." } ], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/darrans/darran-mountains/mt-crosscut/upper-cirque-wall", "name": "Upper Cirque Wall", "altitude": null, "access": "In winter access is frighteningly simple. Walk down the road to Bakehouse Creek and cross the river. The crossing can be unpleasant in the dark; stripped to the waist and watch for slippery boulders. Good luck. Once on the other side, travel is straightforward (if your legs aren\u2019t too numb)on the true right of the valley. Travel times vary, depending on how much snow is around but allow more than what you\u2019d think, at least four hours if heading into the upper cirque.\nTo access the Upper Cirque, climb the gully at the true left-hand end of the Lower Cirque Wall. It is steepish but okay to solo. Beware; this is a major avalanche path. Only attempt it during times of low hazard. The small glacier in the Upper Cirque has been slowly wasting away. It has become quite broken and falling serac ice may be another hazard to negotiate.", "description": "This area has a big wall feel to it, with the routes being long and sustained.", "latlng": null, "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/darrans/darran-mountains/mt-crosscut/upper-cirque-wall/white-knight", "name": "White Knight", "grade": "V,WI4", "topo_ref": "11", "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": "V", "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": "WI4", "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "From the upper cirque terrace directly beneath the Middle Peak of Crosscut, climb up two pitches then tend left up a ramp for six pitches. Leave the ramp and climb a gully for five pitches to the lowest notch on the left of the Middle Peak. The best climbing is in the lower pitches." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Bill McLeod, Hugh Widdowson, 1987." }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/darrans/darran-mountains/mt-crosscut/upper-cirque-wall/tramadol-dreams", "name": "Tramadol Dreams", "grade": "5,V,WI4", "topo_ref": null, "image": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/route/tramadolDreams2.JPG?itok=5B1hn55g", "images": [ { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/route/tramadolDreams2.JPG?itok=5B1hn55g", "height": "244", "width": "325" } ], "length": "400m", "pitches": [ { "alpine": "5", "commitment": "V", "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": "WI4", "mixed": null, "length": "400m", "bolts": null, "trad": true, "ewbank": null, "description": null } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": true, "description": "Between White Knight and Heart of Gold. Up to Cyclops Cave, then angle left\nto hanging couloir.", "ascent": "Steven Fortune, Ben Dare 2015" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/darrans/darran-mountains/mt-crosscut/upper-cirque-wall/heart-gold", "name": "Heart of Gold", "grade": "VI,WI5", "topo_ref": "12", "image": null, "images": [], "length": "650m", "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": "VI", "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": "WI5", "mixed": null, "length": "650m", "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "Starts from the upper terrace in Cirque Creek, climb steep ice in a corner staying close to the rock on the right-hand side. Crux at \u00be height. The first half of the route was climbed on mainly rock protection with the occasional \u2018psychological\u2019 ice screw. 650m to the ridge of Crosscut." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Nigel Perry, Duncan Ritchie, 1981." }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/darrans/darran-mountains/mt-crosscut/upper-cirque-wall/hotel-caribbean", "name": "Hotel Caribbean", "grade": "VI,WI5", "topo_ref": "13", "image": null, "images": [], "length": "700m", "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": "VI", "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": "WI5", "mixed": null, "length": "700m", "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "Fifteen pitches of steep ice with the lower pitches being quite sustained." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Nick Cradock, Nigel Perry, Nov 1982." }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/darrans/darran-mountains/mt-crosscut/upper-cirque-wall/reunion-invernal", "name": "Reunion Invernal", "grade": "WI4", "topo_ref": "RI", "image": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/route/39105_1508998534339_4009403_n.jpg?itok=VVKGXL__", "images": [ { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/route/39105_1508998534339_4009403_n.jpg?itok=VVKGXL__", "height": "218", "width": "325" } ], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": "WI4", "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "A classic route with moderate\r\ndifficulties.The access is easier and\r\nshorter than the neighbouring routes\r\non the upper tier.\r\nStart at the top end of the Cirque Creek\r\nbasin. Reach the waterfall pitches via\r\neasy snow slopes, avoid tricky ice\r\ncovered rock slabs. Climb the waterfall\r\nand follow a hidden gully to its end.\r\nFirst 75\u00b0 ice then 50\u00b0 snow.\r\nClimb the crux in 3 steep pitches (ice\r\nup to 80\u00b0). Vertical snow can make\r\nmoves difficult. The last few meters\r\ncan be thin on rock slabs. Pass an\r\noverhang on the right and enter a\r\nramp. Follow the ramp to the Crosscut\r\nRidge. Snow up to 60\u00b0 with ice bulges.\r\n650m to the ridge.\r\nA strong team can climb the line in a\r\nlong day from Homer hut.\r\nACCESS: Approx 3h from the road.\r\nDESCENT: Rap off the route. Some fixed\r\nrap stations were left in the top part\r\nof the route during the first ascent.\r\nAbalacov\u2019s were used where it was\r\npossible.\r\nGEAR: Short ice screws, full rock rack\r\nincluding pitons." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Alejandro Mora Mu\u00f1os, Matthias Kerkmann July 2010" } ], "places": [], "image": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/wide/public/image/Cirque%20up.jpg?itok=MKAiS4p0", "images": [ { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/wide/public/image/Cirque%20up.jpg?itok=MKAiS4p0", "height": "558", "width": "900" }, { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/image/Cirque%20Ck.png?itok=Hf32pj5e", "height": "228", "width": "325" } ] }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/darrans/darran-mountains/mt-crosscut/cirque-creek-bluffs", "name": "Cirque Creek Bluffs", "altitude": null, "access": "In winter access is frighteningly simple. Walk down the road to Bakehouse Creek and cross the river. The crossing can be unpleasant in the dark; stripped to the waist and watch for slippery boulders. Good luck. Once on the other side, travel is straightforward (if your legs aren\u2019t too numb) on the true right. Travel times vary, depending on how much snow is around but allow more than what you\u2019d think, two and a half hours to the lower cirque or at least four hours if heading into the upper cirque.\nDescents\nThere are no easy descent routes making these climbs committing. Assess the avalanche hazard before choosing a descent. Think changes in altitude. Near the top it may be winter but as you get near the bottom wet point release avalanches may occur.\nFor the routes left of Cul de Sac, the most popular descent is the Crosscut Bluffs, the west facing slopes of Crosscut opposite Homer Hut. Finding the entry point into the Bluffs can be tricky. Complete a rising traverse of the snowfield to some pinnacles above Gertrude Valley. Descend the true left of the left gully, crossing to the true right of the right gully above the bluffs. Easy slopes lead to the valley floor. A longer but potentially safer way down is to traverse all the way to the South Ridge of Barrier Peak and descend to Gertrude Saddle.\nRapping the routes would take a while, possibly a last resort.\nFor the routes right of Cul de Sac, rapping is likely the best and safest descent option. Unless the avalanche hazard is low to bomber, don\u2019t be tempted to abseil to the shoulder to traverse left into the upper terraces of Cirque Creek. The ground in here is death on a stick.", "description": null, "latlng": null, "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/darrans/darran-mountains/mt-crosscut/cirque-creek-bluffs/mama-says-its-alright-dream", "name": "Mama Say's it's Alright to Dream", "grade": "4,III", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": "100m", "pitches": [ { "alpine": "4", "commitment": "III", "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": "100m", "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "Snakes up a thin line of ice just right of a prominant and deeply recessed slot canyon on the lower west wall of Cirque Ck.\r\nThe route climbed bulges of good ice scattered between areas of thin ice, frozen moss and rock." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Kristen Foley, Max Kaufman, July 1993" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/darrans/darran-mountains/mt-crosscut/cirque-creek-bluffs/freycinet", "name": "Freycinet", "grade": null, "topo_ref": null, "image": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/route/image.jpeg?itok=CySbsuju", "images": [ { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/route/image.jpeg?itok=CySbsuju", "height": "244", "width": "325" } ], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "Early Cirque Creek left of deep ravine left of Scratch/Tickle. Rarely forms. 300m of snowy vego Darrans approach including a few short steep steps with thin slab/turf top outs. 200m of comfortable and scenic 1-3m wide neve/ice gully with a short steep rarely forming ice crux at top of triangular rock face to the right. Then moderately exposed neve/mixed ar\u00eate to shoulder plateau of Crosscut. Rappel the route to descend." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Lincoln Quilliam, Alastair McDowell" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/darrans/darran-mountains/mt-crosscut/cirque-creek-bluffs/scratch", "name": "Scratch", "grade": "3,IV", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": "3", "commitment": "IV", "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "The first prominent ice gully on the left looking up Cirque Creek, take the left-hand fork at half height to finish on the high terrace, nine pitches. \r\nThe first prominent ice gully on the left looking up Cirque Creek, take the left-hand fork at half height to finish on the high terrace, nine pitches." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Hugh Van Noorden, Anton Woperis, July 1984" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/darrans/darran-mountains/mt-crosscut/cirque-creek-bluffs/tickle", "name": "Tickle", "grade": "3,IV", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": "3", "commitment": "IV", "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "A variation to Scratch, continue right at the fork for three pitches up corners and wide cracks. Traverse left to join Scratch for the last two pitches." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Mike Abbott, Brian Alder, July 1988" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/darrans/darran-mountains/mt-crosscut/cirque-creek-bluffs/sign-times", "name": "Sign of the Times", "grade": "5,VI", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": "5", "commitment": "VI", "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": true, "ewbank": null, "description": null } ], "quality": 2, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": true, "description": "Climb Cul de Sac to the cave. Gain the ice flow above the cave, either by\ntraversing in above the cave from the right, or up the pillar on the left of\nthe cave. A number of ice pitches and steep snow lead up the fault to the\nsummit. A fine companion to Cul de Sac.\nThe first ascent of the lower part of the route was halted at the snowfields\non the left at half height due to bad weather, The ascent continuing the line\nto the summit was probably the second ascent overall.", "ascent": "Brian Alder, Andrew Milne, September 1988 (To the snowfields)" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/darrans/darran-mountains/mt-crosscut/cirque-creek-bluffs/penelope%E2%80%99s-brain", "name": "Penelope\u2019s Brain", "grade": "3,III", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": "3", "commitment": "III", "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "Not really worthwhile.\r\nClimbs the walllto the right of the Lindsay Stewart Buttress at about the hieght of the Cul de Sac cave.\r\nNamed after a certain weather producer. The mushy ice was likened to a certain part of her anatomy. The descent was down Cul de Sac." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Dave Fearnley, Matt Evrard, Brian Alder, 1992" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/darrans/darran-mountains/mt-crosscut/cirque-creek-bluffs/white-sheet", "name": "White as a Sheet", "grade": "5,IV", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": "5", "commitment": "IV", "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "About 300m up valley from Cul De Sac. \r\nThe first three pitches go up the right hand side of the slab to a small cave beneath a large overhang. The next pitch is the crux - the Sheet. The ice is usually thin on the 70 degree slab. Then there is a 3m vertical icicle. The last two pitches are straightforward ice. It isn\u2019t the technical difficulty that gives this route the grade but the sustained angle and tenuous climbing on the Sheet. The only sensible descent is by rapping the route, although it is possible to traverse around to the terrace of the Upper Cirque.\r\nThis route is named after the pallor of Richard Thomson\u2019s face after he fell off the crux icicle." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Dave Vass, Richard Thomson, August 1989" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/darrans/darran-mountains/mt-crosscut/cirque-creek-bluffs/southern-man", "name": "Southern Man", "grade": "4,IV", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": "4", "commitment": "IV", "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "About 300m up valley from Cul De Sac.\r\nThis is the companion route to WAAS. It goes up the corner to the right of WAAS into a cave then up a 60m pitch of ice that is reminiscent of the crux on WAAS, but easier.\r\nThe first ascentionists reckoned you could get the Missus and the dogs in the Ute up the first four pitches, but you\u2019d struggle getting even the ute up the last one. Grade: Harder than losing to the Aussies. Rappel the route." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Allan Uren, Clinton Beavan, July 1993" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/darrans/darran-mountains/mt-crosscut/cirque-creek-bluffs/picked-wrong-week-climb-everest", "name": "Picked the Wrong Week to Climb Everest", "grade": "4,III", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": "4", "commitment": "III", "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "About 300m up valley from Cul De Sac. This short steep route is part of the longer gully bisecting the WAAS wall and the line of bluffs below the Upper Cirque. Two pitches, the short second pitch an icicle, finishing at the base of the snowfield. Rap off or continue up the snowfield." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Dave Vass, Richard Thomson, Brian Alder, July 1989" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/darrans/darran-mountains/mt-crosscut/cirque-creek-bluffs/squealing", "name": "Squealing", "grade": "6,IV,WI4", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": "0m", "pitches": [ { "alpine": "6", "commitment": "IV", "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": "WI4", "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "Six steep pitches of pumpy technical climbing. The fifth pitch is a 45m vertical ice column. It may need a good hard winter to for the water ice pitches to form and be joined up.\r\nRap the route or descend down the steep gully at the true left hand end of the lower Cirque Creek wall. \r\n\r\nSecond ascent by Daniel Joll, Jono Clarke et al in the 2010s, reporting 'Canadian WI4,' meaning very steep and quite difficult, and apparently not remotely comparable to most other routes of the same grade in New Zealand." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": "0", "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Paul Rogers, Dave Vass, 1993" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/darrans/darran-mountains/mt-crosscut/cirque-creek-bluffs/na-fianna", "name": "Na Fianna", "grade": null, "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "ice line through the centre of the rock buttress to the right of Squealing" } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Ben Dare, Danny Murphy 7/2015" } ], "places": [], "image": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/wide/public/image/Cique%20Ck.jpg?itok=CehGrTlo", "images": [ { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/wide/public/image/Cique%20Ck.jpg?itok=CehGrTlo", "height": "330", "width": "900" } ] } ], "image": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/wide/public/image/Darrans-Crosscut-Tom-Hoyle-2019_0.jpg?itok=VYfIs9Ig", "images": [ { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/wide/public/image/Darrans-Crosscut-Tom-Hoyle-2019_0.jpg?itok=VYfIs9Ig", "height": "818", "width": "1090" } ] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aspiring/main-divide/moncrieff-pk": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aspiring/main-divide/moncrieff-pk", "name": "Moncrieff Pk", "altitude": "2262m", "access": null, "description": "The first ascent of Moncrieff (originally named Mercer) was made on January 4, 1959, by Garth Matterson, Don Mee and Dove Tarrant, from Moncrieff Col.", "latlng": [ "-44.387801", "168.778141" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aspiring/main-divide/moncrieff-pk/south-face", "name": "South Face", "grade": "III,2", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": "0m", "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": "III", "mtcook": "2", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "Follow the Moncrieff Col route from Aspiring Flat to reach the snowfield below the col. Traverse north to reach the rib separating the Kitchener and Lucas Glaciers. This rib leads to a steep snowfield below the South Face, which is then climbed by a direct line to the summit. The rock is unpleasantly loose but otherwise not unduly difficult.\r\n\r\nThis is a very long climb from Aspiring Flat, probably requiring eight to ten hours to the summit, but the reward is a magnificent view. There is a bivvy rock on the Moncrieff Col route. This bivvy is big enough for three people to stay dry in even in the most atrocious conditions." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": "0", "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Martyn Potter, Maurice Conway, Wayne McIlwraith, January 1970" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aspiring/main-divide/moncrieff-pk/moncrieff-col", "name": "From Moncrieff Col", "grade": "II,1", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": "0m", "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": "II", "mtcook": "1", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": null } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": "0", "natural_pro": false, "description": "Moncrieff can be climbed in a few minutes by easy slabs north-east of Moncrieff Col.", "ascent": null } ], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/nelson-lakes/travers-range/mt-cupola": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/nelson-lakes/travers-range/mt-cupola", "name": "Mt Cupola", "altitude": "2260m", "access": "Cupola Basin Routes A marked track to Cupola Basin Hut leaves the Travers Valley at a small clearing. At 1370m and with spectacular views nearby the hut is well sited for climbs.", "description": "Several good routes are possible from Cupola Basin Hut, including some buttresses of reasonable quality rock.", "latlng": [ "-41.9852087", "172.72008892" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/nelson-lakes/travers-range/mt-cupola/east-face", "name": "East Face", "grade": "3+", "topo_ref": "A", "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": "3+", "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "An imposing series of red rock buttresses. One route goes up the first red buttress on the left of a faultline on the right of the face. The first two pitches are loose, with a grade 16 crux on the second pitch. Three more pitches lead onto easy ground, then traverse to a final pitch which leads to the top of the faultline.\r\n \r\nFurther left, there are two more routes (grade 13). There is also a route on the buttress right of the faultline (grade 16, reasonable quality rock)." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": null }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/nelson-lakes/travers-range/mt-cupola/north-face", "name": "North Face", "grade": "2", "topo_ref": "B", "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": "2", "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "From Cupola Basin Hut, sidle up to a big scree fan on the North Face. The usual summer route is a zigzag ledge on a rib between deep gullies. A hanging scree shelf above is crossed to its eastern edge where firm rock leads directly to the summit. The gully left of the zigzag ledge provides good climbing when snow-filled." } ], "quality": 1, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "G E Mabin and others, Dec. 1933." }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/nelson-lakes/travers-range/mt-cupola/north-gully", "name": "North Gully", "grade": "3", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": "3", "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "A very narrow gully starts from the left edge of the North Face fan (North Face route) and exits on easy slopes below the summit. The route is visible from points south-west of the hut. Belay up a 2m step of water ice over steep rock (small wedge or piton needed). Continue over a smaller ice step and then easier ground. Note that the steep walls above the gully catch the early morning sun, so be sure to reach the upper gully before the hummers reach you." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": null }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/nelson-lakes/travers-range/mt-cupola/north-west-ridge", "name": "North West Ridge", "grade": "1", "topo_ref": "C", "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": "1", "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "This is gained from the top of a scree fan between Cupola and a dome-shaped peak to the north. Shaky pinnacles and a deep notch make the route difficult." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": null }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/nelson-lakes/travers-range/mt-cupola/south-ridge", "name": "South Ridge", "grade": "3+", "topo_ref": "D", "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": "3+", "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "This ridge is gained from Gunsight Pass and sweeps steeply up to the summit.\r\nAn excellent winter climb." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "R L Scott, A Banks, Jan. 1968." } ], "places": [], "image": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/wide/public/image/cupola3_0.jpg?itok=EJQfZEFp", "images": [ { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/wide/public/image/cupola3_0.jpg?itok=EJQfZEFp", "height": "526", "width": "807" }, { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/image/CP%20cupola.jpg?itok=Xg3okzq5", "height": "236", "width": "325" } ] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/c58dhau-landsborough/naumann-range/pt-2260": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/c58dhau-landsborough/naumann-range/pt-2260", "name": "Pt 2260", "altitude": "2260m", "access": null, "description": null, "latlng": [ "-44.0118", "169.8644" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/%C5%8Dhau-landsborough/naumann-range/pt-2260/hopkins", "name": "From the Hopkins", "grade": null, "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": "Cross the Hopkins River from near the carpark and climb through the beech\nforest to the steep western slopes. Travel along the south ridge to the\nsummit.", "ascent": "No recorded ascent" } ], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/main-divide-of-the-southern-alps/baker-pk-0": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/main-divide-of-the-southern-alps/baker-pk-0", "name": "Baker Pk", "altitude": "2259m", "access": null, "description": "na", "latlng": [ "-43.332046", "170.721788" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/main-divide-of-the-southern-alps/baker-pk-0/west-ridge", "name": "West Ridge", "grade": "1", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "1", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "Follow a mix of straightforward rock and snow to the summit" } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Descended R E (Gran) Clark, Bryan Barrer, Arthur Pearson, Neville Barker, December 1933" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/main-divide-of-the-southern-alps/baker-pk-0/east-ridge", "name": "East Ridge", "grade": null, "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "This steep ridge of poor rock was climbed by Jack Pattle, probably solo, in 1939 or 1940. Miss\r\nIrving accompanied Jack up the valley but is thought not to have climbed the route." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": null } ], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/c58dhau-landsborough/hooker-range/query-pk": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/c58dhau-landsborough/hooker-range/query-pk", "name": "Query Pk", "altitude": "2259m", "access": null, "description": "Query Peak was mismarked on maps for many years as Pt 1973m on the Bannock Brae Range.", "latlng": [ "-43.739064", "169.814638" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/2259/south-east-face", "name": "South East Face", "grade": "2,II", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": "0m", "pitches": [ { "alpine": "2", "commitment": "II", "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": null } ], "quality": 1, "bolts": "0", "natural_pro": false, "description": "From the head of the Mahitahi, gain the col west of Crystal Peak up the steep glacier. Sidle onto the Zora Glacier and up to the summit.", "ascent": "Marie Byles, Marjorie Edgar-Jones, Harry Ayres, Frank Alack, January 1935" } ], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/2257": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/2257", "name": "Pt 2257", "altitude": "2257m", "access": null, "description": "Cloudy Peak Range", "latlng": [ "-43.44335504", "170.74506803" ], "routes": [], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aspiring/snowdrift-range/mt-gamma": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aspiring/snowdrift-range/mt-gamma", "name": "Mt Gamma", "altitude": "2255m", "access": null, "description": "tba", "latlng": [ "-44.456629", "168.544158" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aspiring/snowdrift-range/mt-gamma/whitbourn-saddle", "name": "From Whitbourn Saddle", "grade": null, "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "imb from Whitbourn Saddle via the Snow Dome and east Snowball Glacier." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": null } ], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/saint-bernard": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/saint-bernard", "name": "St Bernard", "altitude": "2255m", "access": null, "description": "Inland Kaikoura Range", "latlng": [ "-42.13427822", "173.42944033" ], "routes": [], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/otago/elcho%E2%80%93huxley-ridges/boanerges": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/otago/elcho%E2%80%93huxley-ridges/boanerges", "name": "Boanerges", "altitude": "2254m", "access": null, "description": "Boanerges was named by Grave, Ombler, Watson and Pinder, who completed the first ascent of the mountain. The Ford car in which they traveled was called Boanerges, which in the Old Testament was \u2018a son of thunder\u2019.", "latlng": [ "-43.98365358", "169.76570211" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/otago/elcho%E2%80%93huxley-ridges/boanerges/west-ridge", "name": "West Ridge", "grade": "2", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "2", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": null } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": "From near the Huxley Forks Hut gain height through the forest and subalpine\nvegetation and follow the steep slopes to the summit. Descent for the first\nparty was via the south east ridge.", "ascent": "N.Baker, T.Beckett, Wilson December 1934" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/otago/elcho%E2%80%93huxley-ridges/boanerges/44-south", "name": "44 South", "grade": "3", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "3", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": null } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": "This late summer route ascends the steep bluffs immediately beneath the Blair\nGlacier. Climb right of centre up the bluffs, cross the short moraine to\nreach the glacier and crampon to the summit. Best tackled when the danger of\navalanches has disappeared, and the bluffs are dry.", "ascent": "Ross Cullen April 1994" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/otago/elcho%E2%80%93huxley-ridges/boanerges/south-east-ridge", "name": "South East Ridge", "grade": "2", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "2", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": null } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": "From the Huxley bridge gain height through the beech forest, then follow the\nnarrow ridge up the tussock slopes to the peak.", "ascent": "Selwyn Grave, Stan Ombler, Brian Pinder, Len Watson December 1934" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/otago/elcho%E2%80%93huxley-ridges/boanerges/eclipse-traverse", "name": "The Eclipse Traverse", "grade": "IV,3", "topo_ref": null, "image": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/routes/IMG20221108133324.jpg?itok=5NNCpKhZ", "images": [ { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/routes/IMG20221108133324.jpg?itok=5NNCpKhZ", "height": "325", "width": "244" } ], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": "IV", "mtcook": "3", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": null } ], "quality": 2, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": "This alpine traverse begins at the high point to the north of Boanerges and ends at Pt. 2072. This deserves to be a classic skyline traverse of the area. It is easily accssible, the climbing is interesting, the rock is good, the views are superb, and there is exposure and interesting scrambling to boot. An evolution of this could be to link into a GT of Taiaha.\nAscend steep bush to Pt 1642. The first ascensionists went direct on the SE Ridge, the rock here is quite good, and provides a nice warm up. Other parties have traversed out to the north and then climbed steep snow to the snow arete at 1900m. Ascend the final point to the ridge, either by going straight up (beware cornices) or sidle around to the south where you can ascend a steep gully for 30m.\nFrom here travel north along the skyline taking in all the high points. Multiple bivy spots are found along the way. The overall quality of the rock on this ridgeline is quite good, especially over the first third of the traverse. The rock deteriorates as you near Pt. 2072. 3 rappels were required off the various high points - these will depend on conditions and your confidence. Descent was into Paradise Creek via steep snow slopes east of Pt. 2072,. There is a hunters/game trail that sidles/parallels Paradise Gorge. This spits you into the Hopkins Valley just upstream of the Huxley river mouth. The first ascensionists soloed the whole route over two days and found ice up to WI3/rock climbing up to Grade 12.", "ascent": "A. Sanders, O. Dowling - November 2022" } ], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aspiring/main-divide/mt-ragan": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aspiring/main-divide/mt-ragan", "name": "Mt Ragan", "altitude": "2254m", "access": null, "description": "The first ascent of Ragan was from the Waiatoto, via Razorback Ridge and across Stocking Peak by Charlie Douglas, February 1891.", "latlng": [ "-44.2614937", "168.85301694" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aspiring/main-divide/mt-ragan/standard-route", "name": "Standard Route", "grade": "II,1", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": "II", "mtcook": "1", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "Climb to Chasm Pass, then along the Main Divide to summit. \r\n\r\n\u27a0 Note: The grade given here is tentative as the route is seldom used." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "A J McLeod, Jan 1946." } ], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/%C5%8Dhau-landsborough/main-divide/barron-pk": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/%C5%8Dhau-landsborough/main-divide/barron-pk", "name": "Barron Pk", "altitude": "2253m", "access": null, "description": null, "latlng": [ "-43.901", "169.7707" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/%C5%8Dhau-landsborough/main-divide/barron-pk/chloe-col", "name": "From Chloe Col", "grade": "2", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "2", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": null } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": "An obvious couloir leads from the col up the west slope to the snowcap and\nthe summit.", "ascent": "Jim Dawson, Christopher Johnson, Scott Russell November 1934" } ], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/canterbury/two-thumb-range/pyramus-pk": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/canterbury/two-thumb-range/pyramus-pk", "name": "Pyramus Pk", "altitude": "2253m", "access": null, "description": null, "latlng": [ "-43.44182707", "170.61553001" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/canterbury/two-thumb-range/pyramus-pk/south-ridge", "name": "South Ridge", "grade": "1+", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "1+", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "Originally approached from the Godley Valley and reached from a col to the south-west of the\r\npeak. This col can also be reached from the Forbes Glacier via straightforward travel on the\r\nglacier and snowfields" } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Edgar Williams, A J Scott, R H Booth, Jan 1932 (from the Godley)" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/canterbury/two-thumb-range/pyramus-pk/east-ridge", "name": "East Ridge", "grade": "1+", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "1+", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "Follow the Saint Winifred Glacier south to join the foot of the East Ridge and follow this to\r\nthe top." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": null }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/canterbury/two-thumb-range/pyramus-pk/north-ridge", "name": "North Ridge", "grade": "1+", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "1+", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "It is a short scramble along the rocky North Ridge from Terra Nova Pass" } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": null } ], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aspiring/barrier-range/cosmos-pks": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aspiring/barrier-range/cosmos-pks", "name": "Cosmos Pks", "altitude": "2252m", "access": null, "description": "The Cosmos Peaks exist in a Pounamu Special Permit Area.", "latlng": [ "-44.56965752", "168.29043956" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aspiring/barrier-range/cosmos-pks/dart-river", "name": "From Dart River", "grade": "2,II", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": "0m", "pitches": [ { "alpine": "2", "commitment": "II", "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": null } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": "0", "natural_pro": false, "description": "From the Dart, climb Slip Stream until the ledges west of and above Lake Mystery can be traversed to a snowfield from which a steep couloir leads to the summit. A rocky ridge from the same snowfield leads to the higher West Peak. Good camp spots at E40 376 158.", "ascent": null }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aspiring/barrier-range/cosmos-pks/beans-burn", "name": "From Beans Burn", "grade": null, "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "Access to the peaks can be gained from the true left of the Beans Burn at the first open flat, from where a creek may be followed to the snowline and the jagged peaks, or cross Beans Burn at E40 349 136 and climb to bushline.\r\nDirect access can be gained from Sandy Flat in the Dart.\r\n\r\nFollow Beans Burn to point E40 349 136, cross the Beans Burn and follow deer tracks to the top of the bushline. Head up a prominent gully which gains access to the south end of the snowfields from where the summits can be gained." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": null } ], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aspiring/main-divide/mt-barff": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aspiring/main-divide/mt-barff", "name": "Mt Barff", "altitude": "2252m", "access": "From Liverpool Bivouac", "description": "Maybe the person who named Barff was sick of mountains when they chris-\ntened it. From Aspiring Hut Barff is one of the prettiest peaks in the park and is a joy to climb. Being of small stature and on the Main Divide it is one of the first peaks to be cloaked in West Coast clag.\nIt was first climbed, solo, by Gordon Speden on Christmas Day, 1929. What a great Christmas present that would have made.", "latlng": [ "-44.4118296", "168.6538791" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aspiring/main-divide/mt-barff/south-west-ridge", "name": "South West Ridge", "grade": "III,2", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": "0m", "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": "III", "mtcook": "2", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": null } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": "0", "natural_pro": false, "description": "The South West ridge is a straightforward mixed climb leading from Arawhata Saddle to the lower of the twin summit towers. The prominent step on the ridge above Arawhata Saddle (sometimes called Bow Peak) may be traversed, or turned on the Arawhata side. The easiest route on the higher (eastern) of the twin summit cones is on the north-western side. Time to the summit is about five to six hours.", "ascent": null }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aspiring/main-divide/mt-barff/south-face", "name": "South Face", "grade": "III,2", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": "0m", "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": "III", "mtcook": "2", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": null } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": "0", "natural_pro": false, "description": "This broad crevassed snow face is reached by traversing towards Arawhata Saddle for about half an hour, until suitable access to the snowfield is found. An easy snow climb then leads to the rocky summit cones. This is probably the quickest route on Barff and would take three to four hours in good conditions. Large schrunds which have developed in recent years near the top of the face may be difficult to cross.", "ascent": "Jack Aitken, Roy Stroud, Jock Toomey, Bert Ouelch, Eric Miller, Dot English, Angus Black, Len Chant, 27 December, 1939" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aspiring/main-divide/mt-barff/north-ridge", "name": "North Ridge", "grade": "III,4", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": "0m", "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": "III", "mtcook": "4", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": null } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": "0", "natural_pro": false, "description": "The North Ridge is a much more demanding climb than any of the other recognised routes on the mountain. To get to the North Ridge use access routes from Matukituki Saddle the ridge consists of easy rock and snow as far as its junction with the ridge separating the Arawata and Waipara watersheds. Three prominent buttresses follow. The first is climbed by a steep rock couIoir to gain a snow ridge above, from where an easier mixed section leads to the second buttress. This is the crux of the climb as it overhangs slightly at the bottom and although the rock is sound, there are few holds. Brown and Hutchins climbed it direct but a break in the west side may offer an easier route.\nThe upper part of the buttress consists of a smooth vertical face at the top of a sharp snow ar\u00eate, and was turned on a narrow and exposed crack on the eastern side of the ridge. The third buttress is climbed by a crooked chimney well round on the west side. Above this steep snow leads to the summit towers, of which the easternmost is the highest and is climbed by easy rock on its north-west side.\nThe first ascent was made in heavily iced conditions and took about nine hours from Matukituki Saddle to the summit.", "ascent": "Dave Brown, Mike Hutchins, October 1966" } ], "places": [], "image": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/wide/public/image/Barff_opt.jpeg?itok=UD_SiIVT", "images": [ { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/wide/public/image/Barff_opt.jpeg?itok=UD_SiIVT", "height": "432", "width": "648" } ] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/otago/richardson-mountains/cleft-pk": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/otago/richardson-mountains/cleft-pk", "name": "Cleft Pk", "altitude": "2250m", "access": "Access from the Rees is through Rees Valley Station. Permission must be obtained from the station prior to the start of the trip. Detailed information can be obtained at https://www.reesvalley.co.nz/access/\nAn approach from the east or from the north is likely to be very difficult because of steep / overhung bluffs and very brittle rock barring access on the summit pyramid.", "description": "Richardson Mountains", "latlng": [ "-44.56565189", "168.5528818" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/otago/richardson-mountains/cleft-pk/west-ridge", "name": "West Ridge", "grade": "2,II", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": "0m", "pitches": [ { "alpine": "2", "commitment": "II", "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": null } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": "0", "natural_pro": false, "description": "The west ridge is easily reached from Twenty Five Mile Saddle. Access is through forest from Slip Flat then a long sidle on open tussock slopes, or via Twenty Five Mile Creek. Either way, you'll be on Rees Valley station land the whole way to the summit, and permission for access is required from the station.\nA good viewpoint reached easily from old Shelter Rock Hut site via the leading ridge or from the north branch of Twenty-Five Mile Stream, the best travel being on the true right until above the waterfall and then via the leading ridge.", "ascent": null } ], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/c58dhau-landsborough/barrier-range/mt-maitland": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/c58dhau-landsborough/barrier-range/mt-maitland", "name": "Mt Maitland", "altitude": "2249m", "access": null, "description": null, "latlng": [ "-44.161026", "169.71199" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/%C5%8Dhau-landsborough/barrier-range/mt-maitland/north-face", "name": "North Face", "grade": "1+,II", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": "1+", "commitment": "II", "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": null } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": "From South Temple Hut follow the southernmost branch of the South Temple stream on the true right, climbing past a small gorge at G38 497 690 to reach the upper basin. Beginning near the final branch in the stream, ascend loose rocky slopes to reach the summit.", "ascent": "First ascent unknown" } ], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aspiring/snowdrift-range/mt-delta": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aspiring/snowdrift-range/mt-delta", "name": "Mt Delta", "altitude": "2249m", "access": null, "description": "tba", "latlng": [ "-44.456445", "168.548535" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aspiring/snowdrift-range/mt-delta/whitbourn-saddle", "name": "From Whitbourn Saddle", "grade": null, "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "Climb from Whitbourn Saddle via the Snow Dome and east Snowball Glacier." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": null } ], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aspiring/haast-range/rolling-pin": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aspiring/haast-range/rolling-pin", "name": "Rolling Pin", "altitude": "2249m", "access": null, "description": "The intriguing name of this mountain, so incongruous in comparison with the nautical names of the other Haast Range peaks, is apparently derived from its resemblance to the culinary instrument when seen from the east. It was first climbed by Allan Evans and Geoff Milne on January 3, 1948.", "latlng": [ "-44.36369167", "168.7089609" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aspiring/haast-range/rolling-pin/skyline-traverse", "name": "Skyline Traverse", "grade": "II,2", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": "II", "mtcook": "2", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "This is a classic traverse taking in mind-expanding views of the Tasman Sea and if reversed, Mt Aspiring. Continue to the top of Shipowner Ridge from Colin Todd Hut and climb the snow and rock ar\u00eate on to the south end of the summit ridge. The long level ridge is predominantly snow and is very exposed on the Therma Glacier side. Return to the hut via the Iso Glacier. The round trip takes about five hours." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": null }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aspiring/haast-range/rolling-pin/west-face", "name": "West Face", "grade": "II,2", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": "II", "mtcook": "2", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "Traverse across the Iso Glacier at about the same height as the hut until underneath the summit, which is reached by easy snow and rock. From the hut to the summit takes about two hours." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": null }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aspiring/haast-range/rolling-pin/west-face-rock-routes", "name": "West Face rock routes", "grade": "15", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": true, "ewbank": "15", "description": "Two cracks to the left of the obvious crack/corner." }, { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": true, "ewbank": null, "description": "The crack/corner itself." }, { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": true, "ewbank": null, "description": "Two routes to the right, one of which is a crack, the other a broken corner starting underneath an overlap." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": true, "description": "Situated on the West Face of Rolling Pin beneath the 35m abseil descent from\nthe main summit, as seen from below, not the abseil at the end of the ridge.\nThere are five routes, ranging in grade from 15 to 22, all on natural gear,\nall single pitches, on clean rock. (They were cairned at the time of their\nfirst ascents.) The crag is best approached from the hut, along the Iso\nGlacier (the one footing the West Face of Rolling Pin), well worth the walk.", "ascent": "David Hiddleston, Malaysian Alpine Club members, March 1996." } ], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/main-divide-of-the-southern-alps/mt-warner": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/main-divide-of-the-southern-alps/mt-warner", "name": "Mt Warner", "altitude": "2249m", "access": null, "description": null, "latlng": [ "-43.163745", "171.047087" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/main-divide-of-the-southern-alps/mt-warner/north", "name": "From the North", "grade": "2-", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "2-", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "Travel is straightforward along the unnamed side creek that drains Mt Warner and Mt\r\nMcWhirter. From the head of this creek climb scree and low-angled rock slabs through bluffs to\r\na small glacier draining the north-east of Mt Warner. Climb the glacier to avoid Pt 2211 metres,\r\nthen cross to the North Ridge and follow easy rock to the top." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Roland Cant, Bill Cullens, April 1935" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/main-divide-of-the-southern-alps/mt-warner/bond-creek", "name": "From Bond Creek", "grade": "1", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "1", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "A small glacier gives easy access to rocky slopes that lead to the peak from slightly north of west." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Austin A Deans, Phil H Willis, R F Fryer, August 1937 (although a small trig and levelled rock platform on the summit presumably date from the original survey)" } ], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aspiring/main-divide/mt-pearson": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aspiring/main-divide/mt-pearson", "name": "Mt Pearson", "altitude": "2248m", "access": null, "description": null, "latlng": [ "-43.9646", "169.6317" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/%C5%8Dhau-landsborough/main-divide/mt-pearson/east-face", "name": "East Face", "grade": "2", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "2", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": null } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": "From the Hunter Valley East Branch climb the tussock slopes, select a route\nthrough the crevassed Smyth Glacier to reach the top.", "ascent": "Peter Child, George Goodyear, 1959" } ], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki/the-sierra-range/mt-glorious": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki/the-sierra-range/mt-glorious", "name": "Mt Glorious", "altitude": "2248m", "access": null, "description": "An amazing ski descent off the Pilkington Glacier, which can be ridden all the way to the snowline to connect with the Conical Hill ridge and a potential exit to the Karangarua.", "latlng": [ "-43.65713", "169.94069" ], "routes": [], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki/main-divide/edith-pk": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki/main-divide/edith-pk", "name": "Edith Pk", "altitude": "2248m", "access": null, "description": null, "latlng": [ "-43.63495701", "170.11333466" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki/main-divide/edith-pk/hooker-valley", "name": "From the Hooker Valley", "grade": "2", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "2", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "Reached either via the ridge over Lean Pk, or by traversing snow slopes below the Copland Pass, or via a steep rotten ridge from the Hooker Valley." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Conrad Kain, E Hamlyn, E Day, March 1914" } ], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/c58dhau-landsborough/naumann-range/prudence-pk": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/c58dhau-landsborough/naumann-range/prudence-pk", "name": "Prudence Pk", "altitude": "2247m", "access": null, "description": null, "latlng": [ "-43.8094", "169.9654" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/c58dhau-landsborough/naumann-range/prudence-pk/south-ridge", "name": "South Ridge", "grade": "2,II", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": "0m", "pitches": [ { "alpine": "2", "commitment": "II", "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": null } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": "0", "natural_pro": false, "description": "From the Dobson, follow the route to Tragedy Col, then a pleasant scramble along the ridge to the summit.", "ascent": "Charlie Collins, David Hall, Priestley Thomson, March 1946" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/c58dhau-landsborough/naumann-range/prudence-pk/south-west-face", "name": "South West Face", "grade": "1+,II", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": "0m", "pitches": [ { "alpine": "1+", "commitment": "II", "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": null } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": "0", "natural_pro": false, "description": "An uncomplicated climb up western slopes out of the Hopkins valley.", "ascent": "Steve Brockett, Bruce Menzies, Bill Packard, December 1946" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/c58dhau-landsborough/naumann-range/prudence-pk/north-ridge", "name": "North Ridge", "grade": "1+,II", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": "0m", "pitches": [ { "alpine": "1+", "commitment": "II", "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": null } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": "0", "natural_pro": false, "description": "A pleasant scramble along the ridge from Faith Col.", "ascent": "W Hursthouse, Priestley Thomson, C J Read, December 1946" } ], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aspiring/snowdrift-range/marion-tower": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aspiring/snowdrift-range/marion-tower", "name": "Marion Tower", "altitude": "2247m", "access": null, "description": "tba", "latlng": [ "-44.473701", "168.56469" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aspiring/snowdrift-range/marion-tower/whitbourn-glacier", "name": "From Whitbourn Glacier", "grade": "2,II", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": "0m", "pitches": [ { "alpine": "2", "commitment": "II", "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": null } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": "0", "natural_pro": false, "description": "Traverse under Mt Maoriri and Mt Edward from Whitbourn Saddle.", "ascent": null }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aspiring/snowdrift-range/marion-tower/direct", "name": "Direct", "grade": null, "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "direct from the Whitbourn River below the Whitbourn Glacier (refer to Troas)." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": null } ], "places": [], "image": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/wide/public/image/RF_Humboldt%20Tower%2C%20Mar_opt_0.jpeg?itok=yFX_16R7", "images": [ { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/wide/public/image/RF_Humboldt%20Tower%2C%20Mar_opt_0.jpeg?itok=yFX_16R7", "height": "243", "width": "324" } ] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/%C5%8Dhau-landsborough/huxley-range/pt-2247": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/%C5%8Dhau-landsborough/huxley-range/pt-2247", "name": "Pt 2247", "altitude": "2247m", "access": null, "description": "No recorded ascent.", "latlng": [ "-44.0386", "169.7101" ], "routes": [], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aspiring/snowdrift-range/humboldt-tower": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aspiring/snowdrift-range/humboldt-tower", "name": "Humboldt Tower", "altitude": "2247m", "access": null, "description": "tba", "latlng": [ "-44.483377", "168.557481" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aspiring/snowdrift-range/humboldt-tower/standard-routes", "name": "Standard Routes", "grade": null, "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "To gain the ridge between the Dart Valley and Whitbourn Valley refer to \r\n\r\nMoir 2005 p42. This ridge should be followed to the summit. The peak can also be climbed from Whitbourn Flats." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": null } ], "places": [], "image": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/wide/public/image/RF_Humboldt%20Tower%2C%20Mar_opt.jpeg?itok=GLkvMC-c", "images": [ { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/wide/public/image/RF_Humboldt%20Tower%2C%20Mar_opt.jpeg?itok=GLkvMC-c", "height": "243", "width": "324" } ] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/c58dhau-landsborough/barrier-range/pt-2246": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/c58dhau-landsborough/barrier-range/pt-2246", "name": "Pt 2246", "altitude": "2246m", "access": null, "description": "This peak is adjacent to but slightly lower than Belfry Peak. (It is referred to as Belfry Peak in the 2021 \u014chau\u2013Landsborough Alps guidebook.)", "latlng": [ "-44.08083014255", "169.75431524675" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/%C5%8Dhau-landsborough/barrier-range/belfry-pk/east-face", "name": "East Face", "grade": "2,II", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": "2", "commitment": "II", "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": null } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": "An intriguing problem from the North Temple valley, but appears to be climbable by approaching from the north-east. An alternative approach from Gunsight Pass leads on to low quality rock 400m distant from the summit.", "ascent": "First ascent unknown" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/%C5%8Dhau-landsborough/barrier-range/belfry-pk/west-ramp", "name": "West Ramp", "grade": "2,II", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": "2", "commitment": "II", "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": null } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": "Begin near the head of the South Temple valley, where scree slopes lead to a basin west of the peak and culminate in a steep rock needle. First ascended by an Easter trip of North Otago climbers. Lack of snow cover may make accessing the summit difficult.", "ascent": "Carol Ayers, Ruth Berry, Tom Guthrie, Ray Slater, Rod Williams, Roy Winsley, March 1948" } ], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/canterbury/armoury-range/bandit-pk": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/canterbury/armoury-range/bandit-pk", "name": "Bandit Pk", "altitude": "2246m", "access": null, "description": "na", "latlng": [ "-43.365001", "170.824957" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/canterbury/armoury-range/bandit-pk/south-east-ridge", "name": "South East Ridge", "grade": "1+", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "1+", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "Follow the creek draining the basin south of Bandit Peak, climbing through bluffs on the true\r\nleft of the waterfall. Then cross scree to an easy ridge, loose in places, to reach the summit." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Russell Pearce, Eric Drewitt, December 1955" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/canterbury/armoury-range/bandit-pk/north-east-ridge", "name": "North East Ridge", "grade": null, "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "A short distance upstream of Sinclair Bivvy, follow a moraine crest to the line of bluffs running\r\nparallel to the valley below Bandit Peak. Move diagonally through on snow slopes to reach the\r\ncrest of the North East Ridge and follow to the summit." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": null } ], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/canterbury/jollie-range/urquhart": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/canterbury/jollie-range/urquhart", "name": "Urquhart", "altitude": "2246m", "access": null, "description": "Pt 2246 has been known informally as Urquhart for many years and is usually referred to as such in the older literature.", "latlng": [ "-43.385339", "170.854654" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/canterbury/jollie-range/urquhart/south-west-ridge", "name": "South West Ridge", "grade": null, "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "The South West Ridge can be reached via a slog up from the Sinclair River and involves a rocky\r\nscramble to the summit." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": null }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/canterbury/jollie-range/urquhart/north-ridge", "name": "North Ridge", "grade": "1+", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "1+", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "Follow the side creek north of Lawrence Hut, crossing into the basin south of Mt Johnstone at\r\nits head. To gain the North Ridge, climb a gully then follow a rock rib to the summit.\r\n\r\nTraversing the ridge between Urquhart and Jollie involves many guts and gendarmes." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Ian Smith, G MacFarlane, Russell Pearce, Jack Taylor, March 1956" } ], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/darrans/darran-mountains/mt-patuki": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/darrans/darran-mountains/mt-patuki", "name": "Mt Patuki", "altitude": "2246m", "access": null, "description": "Mt Patuki is the apex of the Lake Turner, Donne and Tutoko catchments. There is good rock climbing on the south and north-east faces.\nDescent is either by the Original Line couloir (may be better to scramble down rock on the true right as the snow breaks up in summer), or via the gully at the north end of the wall (requires a couple of abseils).", "latlng": [ "-44.6692", "168.02344" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/darrans/darran-mountains/mt-patuki/east-ridge", "name": "East Ridge", "grade": "2+,III", "topo_ref": "1", "image": null, "images": [], "length": "0m", "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "A long and moderate ridge, loose in places. Sidle the first large tower on the south and the second to the north." }, { "alpine": "2+", "commitment": "III", "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": null } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": "0", "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Ian Cave, Mike Gill, Dave Nichols, 15 February 1962" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/darrans/darran-mountains/mt-patuki/its-all-gone-biltong", "name": "It\u2019s All Gone Biltong", "grade": "22", "topo_ref": null, "image": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/2023-10/Biltong%20Crag%2C%20Mt%20Patuki.jpg?itok=nwSCH7P9", "images": [ { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/2023-10/Biltong%20Crag%2C%20Mt%20Patuki.jpg?itok=nwSCH7P9", "height": "217", "width": "325" } ], "length": "60m", "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": "40m", "bolts": null, "trad": true, "ewbank": "20", "description": "Scramble up from the left to belay. Climb rightwards into a short corner at the base of the arete. Up this and on to the arete proper." }, { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": "20m", "bolts": null, "trad": true, "ewbank": "22", "description": "Puff over the nose." } ], "quality": 2, "bolts": "0", "natural_pro": true, "description": "Below the first knob on Patuki\u2019s East Ridge is an attractive looking arete\nof red rock.", "ascent": "Rich Turner, Rich Thomson, Dave Vass, February 2009" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/darrans/darran-mountains/mt-patuki/original-line", "name": "Original Line", "grade": "2,II", "topo_ref": "2", "image": null, "images": [], "length": "250m", "pitches": [ { "alpine": "2", "commitment": "II", "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": "250m", "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "Climb the snow couloir from the snowfield under the North East Face (there is often a large schrund at the bottom). The first ascent party accessed the face from the Tutoko Valley via Pakihaukea Pass." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": "0", "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "John Findlay, Lindsay Stewart, Roland Rodda, Ian Whitehead, Easter 1940" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/darrans/darran-mountains/mt-patuki/penney-uren", "name": "Penney Uren", "grade": "16,II", "topo_ref": "3", "image": null, "images": [], "length": "250m", "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": "II", "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": "250m", "bolts": null, "trad": true, "ewbank": "16", "description": "Climb the rock buttress on the true left (north) of the snow couloir." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": "0", "natural_pro": true, "description": null, "ascent": "Phil Penney, Alan Uren" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/darrans/darran-mountains/mt-patuki/short-cut", "name": "Short Cut", "grade": "20", "topo_ref": "4", "image": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/routes/2790F80D-3A5E-4EE4-A956-29309B984153.jpeg?itok=iQGqa1xp", "images": [ { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/routes/2790F80D-3A5E-4EE4-A956-29309B984153.jpeg?itok=iQGqa1xp", "height": "244", "width": "325" }, { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/routes/CB8CBE28-BCB2-455F-919A-57CB8AE17DF3.jpeg?itok=jJdbgGcV", "height": "217", "width": "325" } ], "length": "305m", "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": "50m", "bolts": null, "trad": true, "ewbank": "17", "description": "Climb up fist crack and then right facing corner to ledge. Move right to belay in middle of left-facing corner." }, { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": "60m", "bolts": null, "trad": true, "ewbank": "20", "description": "Step right of belay and climb easy slabs to red bulge. Climb up left of red rock. Take any gear you find as next wall has lots of loose flakes and rock. Carefully up this to belay at large spike on large boulder. Would recommend doing this pitch differently as loose section is very dangerous. Could climb vegetated but okay-looking crack to the left or try hanging groove further right." }, { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": "50m", "bolts": null, "trad": true, "ewbank": "18", "description": "Step right of large chimney and climb steep hanging flake. When this ends drift right into splitter cracks." }, { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": "50m", "bolts": null, "trad": true, "ewbank": "16", "description": "Straight up for gear then step left past block and climb fun cracks to belay." }, { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": "50m", "bolts": null, "trad": true, "ewbank": "19", "description": "Easy ground to steep crack. Climb crack to technical bulge, above this climb to top of obvious flake. Drift left and up for 5m to great belay stance on the buttress." }, { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": "45m", "bolts": null, "trad": true, "ewbank": "19", "description": "Straight up the arete. A little run out but phenomenal climbing. From here a short scramble to the ridge." } ], "quality": 1, "bolts": "0", "natural_pro": true, "description": "Climb mostly red rock 80m left of the \u201cTurner Vass\u201d. Start at low point left of hanging snow patch and left of large right facing corner. Good route overall, however pitch 2 is seriously loose and another variation should be done to avoid this.", "ascent": "Bruce Dowrick, Llewellyn Murdoch, January 2022" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/darrans/darran-mountains/mt-patuki/turner-vass", "name": "Turner Vass", "grade": "21,II", "topo_ref": "5", "image": null, "images": [], "length": "300m", "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": "II", "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": "300m", "bolts": null, "trad": true, "ewbank": "21", "description": null } ], "quality": 2, "bolts": "0", "natural_pro": true, "description": "Five pitches. Start left of the obvious left-slanting chimney crack. After the first pitch, cross the chimney crack on to the steep wall (crux), and continue straight up the red wall, finishing just north of Pt 2223m. Fantastic gear, great outing.", "ascent": "Rich Turner, Dave Vass, February 2001" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/darrans/darran-mountains/mt-patuki/thomson-turner-vass", "name": "Thomson Turner Vass", "grade": "20,II", "topo_ref": "6", "image": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/image/IMG_0334.jpg?itok=gf5X0TNf", "images": [ { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/image/IMG_0334.jpg?itok=gf5X0TNf", "height": "244", "width": "325" } ], "length": "300m", "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": "II", "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": "300m", "bolts": null, "trad": true, "ewbank": "20", "description": null } ], "quality": 1, "bolts": "0", "natural_pro": true, "description": "Five to six pitches in the centre of the large rock shield.", "ascent": "Dave Vass, Rich Turner, Rich Thomson, February 2009" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/darrans/darran-mountains/mt-patuki/mainly-tramping", "name": "Mainly Tramping", "grade": "19", "topo_ref": "7", "image": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/2023-10/Mainly%20Tramping%2C%20Mt%20Patuki%2C%20Darrans%2C%202021.jpeg?itok=J6YHtJoB", "images": [ { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/2023-10/Mainly%20Tramping%2C%20Mt%20Patuki%2C%20Darrans%2C%202021.jpeg?itok=J6YHtJoB", "height": "215", "width": "325" } ], "length": "250m", "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": "250m", "bolts": null, "trad": true, "ewbank": "19", "description": null } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": "0", "natural_pro": true, "description": "Climbs the north-east buttress of Mt P\u0101tuki to the outlier sub-peak Pt 2161m. Six pitches. Descend either by scrambling to the summit and then down the Original Line couloir, or down the gully between Pt 2161m and Pt 2223m (requires a couple of abseils).", "ascent": "Ruari Mcfarlane, Tom Riley, Mark Watson, March 2021" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/darrans/darran-mountains/mt-patuki/north-ridge", "name": "North Ridge", "grade": null, "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": "0m", "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "The party accessed the route via the Taoka Icefall, and descended the couloir on the North East Face to make the first traverse." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": "0", "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Bill Gordon, Ralph Miller, December 1955" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/darrans/darran-mountains/mt-patuki/south-west-ridge", "name": "South West Ridge", "grade": "II", "topo_ref": null, "image": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/2023-10/South%20West%20Ridge%2C%20Mt%20Patuki%2C%20Darrans%2C%202022.jpeg?itok=Vw2TiXfL", "images": [ { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/2023-10/South%20West%20Ridge%2C%20Mt%20Patuki%2C%20Darrans%2C%202022.jpeg?itok=Vw2TiXfL", "height": "244", "width": "325" } ], "length": "0m", "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": "II", "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": null } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": "0", "natural_pro": false, "description": "The first ascent party accessed the ridge from the Donne River and Taoka Icefall. Gaining the ridge may be more difficult now due to glacial recession.", "ascent": "Lloyd Warburton, Gerry Hall-Jones, December 1955" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/darrans/darran-mountains/mt-patuki/central-buttress", "name": "Central Buttress", "grade": null, "topo_ref": null, "image": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/image/IMG_2209.jpg?itok=wXJjC4Lk", "images": [ { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/image/IMG_2209.jpg?itok=wXJjC4Lk", "height": "325", "width": "217" } ], "length": "300m", "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": "300m", "bolts": null, "trad": true, "ewbank": null, "description": "A steep buttress in the middle of the south face rising directly to the summit, well protected with solid rock and the crux near the top. Access via Patuki Col and Taoka Icefall." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": "0", "natural_pro": true, "description": null, "ascent": "Kevin Helm, Dave Bamford, February 1980" } ], "places": [], "image": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/wide/public/2023-10/Mt%20Patuki%2C%20Darrans%2C%202022.jpg?itok=oR5MCkEN", "images": [ { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/wide/public/2023-10/Mt%20Patuki%2C%20Darrans%2C%202022.jpg?itok=oR5MCkEN", "height": "613", "width": "1090" } ] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/canterbury/froude-range/pt-2246": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/canterbury/froude-range/pt-2246", "name": "Pt 2246", "altitude": "2246m", "access": null, "description": null, "latlng": [ "-43.319995", "170.837488" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/canterbury/froude-range/pt-2246/mccoy-stream", "name": "From McCoy Stream", "grade": "1+", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "1+", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "Follow a snow lead that leads to the ridge between View Peak and Pt 2246 metres. Traverse east\r\nand follow the glacier to the summit." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": null } ], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/c58dhau-landsborough/hooker-range/mt-doubtful": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/c58dhau-landsborough/hooker-range/mt-doubtful", "name": "Mt Doubtful", "altitude": "2245m", "access": null, "description": null, "latlng": [ "-43.736899", "169.820368" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/c58dhau-landsborough/hooker-range/mt-doubtful/south-face", "name": "South Face", "grade": "2,II", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": "0m", "pitches": [ { "alpine": "2", "commitment": "II", "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": null } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": "0", "natural_pro": false, "description": "From the head of the Mahitahi, gain the col west of Crystal Peak up the steep glacier. Sidle onto the Zora Glacier and up to the summit.", "ascent": "Marie Byles, Marjorie Edgar-Jones, Harry Ayres, Frank Alack, January 1935" } ], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/mt-aurum": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/mt-aurum", "name": "Mt Aurum", "altitude": "2245m", "access": null, "description": "Richardson Mountains", "latlng": [ "-44.76752235", "168.62244937" ], "routes": [], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/%C5%8Dhau-landsborough/main-divide/mt-sinclair": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/%C5%8Dhau-landsborough/main-divide/mt-sinclair", "name": "Mt Sinclair", "altitude": "2244m", "access": null, "description": null, "latlng": [ "-43.8029", "169.9305" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/%C5%8Dhau-landsborough/main-divide/mt-sinclair/richardson-glacier", "name": "From Richardson Glacier", "grade": "1", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "1", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": null } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": "An easy scramble along the divide from Mockery Col.", "ascent": "B.N.Challis, Scott Gilkison, ErniePresland, February 1935" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/%C5%8Dhau-landsborough/main-divide/mt-sinclair/charity-col", "name": "Charity Col", "grade": "2", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "2", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": null } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": "Named by Scott Gilkison, ErniePresland and B.N. Challis who in 1935 spent a\nnight on top finding it 'as cold as Charity.' The name was also consistent\nwith finding an easy descent to the west in contrast to their steep ascent\nfrom the east above the Charity Glacier. This route provides rapid access to\nthe upper Landsborough region from the Hopkins Valley.", "ascent": "B.N.Challis, Scott Gilkison, ErniePresland, February 1935" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/%C5%8Dhau-landsborough/main-divide/mt-sinclair/north-face", "name": "North Face", "grade": "1", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "1", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": null } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": "From the Arthur Glacier, an easy ascent until the last rope length.", "ascent": "Steve Brockett, Bill Packard, December 1946" } ], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/otago/huxley-range/mt-wyn-irwin": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/otago/huxley-range/mt-wyn-irwin", "name": "Mt Wyn Irwin", "altitude": "2244m", "access": null, "description": "TBA", "latlng": [ "169.622092047", "-44.1206206897" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/otago/huxley-range/mt-wyn-irwin/hunter-valley", "name": "From the Hunter Valley", "grade": "1", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "1", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": null } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": "A difficult bush bash from the Hunter Valley about two km downstream from\nPaddock Flat leads to the western slopes and provides access to the summit.", "ascent": "Jack Aitken, Jack Gillespie, Alma Mitchell, M.A.Sutherland, January 1943" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/otago/huxley-range/mt-wyn-irwin/south-ridge", "name": "South Ridge", "grade": "2", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "2", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": null } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": "From upper valley climb snow slopes to reach the Calvin-Wyn Irwin col, then\nfollow the ridge toward Wynn Irwin. Pinnacles and the very narrow final step\nbetween east and main peak can be avoided by descending approximately 100m\nonto the north face then sideling along to gin the eastern edge of the north\nface which is followed easily to the top.", "ascent": "Kyle Beggs, Neil Charters, Steven Fortune, Mark Hooker, January 2004" } ], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aspiring/snowdrift-range/troas": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aspiring/snowdrift-range/troas", "name": "Troas", "altitude": "2243m", "access": null, "description": "tba", "latlng": [ "-44.47482", "168.552558" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aspiring/snowdrift-range/troas/whitbourn-glacier", "name": "From the Whitbourn Glacier", "grade": null, "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "From the large shingle slip near the terminal face of the Whitbourn \r\n\r\nGlacier climb to the spur overlooking the Whitbourn, then cross the Geikie Glacier and ascend the leading ridge." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": null } ], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/otago/elcho%E2%80%93huxley-ridges/mcnulty-pk": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/otago/elcho%E2%80%93huxley-ridges/mcnulty-pk", "name": "McNulty Pk", "altitude": "2241m", "access": null, "description": "The pivot of the North Huxley, South Elcho and Hopkins valleys.", "latlng": [ "-43.9563335", "169.7871279" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/otago/elcho%E2%80%93huxley-ridges/mcnulty-pk/north-face", "name": "North Face", "grade": "2+", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "2+", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": null } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": "From the head of the South Elcho climb across the face on good quality rock\nto reach the summit ridge.", "ascent": "Dave McNulty, Ray Slater, April 1969" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/otago/elchoe28093huxley-ridges/mcnulty-pk/twoshoes", "name": "Twoshoes", "grade": "14,5,IV", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": "300m", "pitches": [ { "alpine": "5", "commitment": "IV", "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": "300m", "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": "14", "description": null } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": "0", "natural_pro": false, "description": "A bluff and waterfall block access from the head of the North Huxley to the basin under the west face of McNulty Peak. This can be bypassed via a spur to the south. The route climbs an outlier 300m south-east of McNulty Peak, taking the west face of the main boot-shaped buttress of the outlier \u2013 300m of steady grade 13\u201314 climbing. Descent by abseiling route.", "ascent": "Bill McLeod, March 1994" } ], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/canterbury/jollie-range/mt-jollie": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/canterbury/jollie-range/mt-jollie", "name": "Mt Jollie", "altitude": "2241m", "access": null, "description": "na", "latlng": [ "-43.40629584", "170.8581491" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/canterbury/jollie-range/mt-jollie/lawrence-river", "name": "From Lawrence River", "grade": null, "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "Reportedly an uncomplicated climb from the side creek north of Lawrence Hut." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Cuthbert Denham, Jack Pattle, January 1936" } ], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/otago/elcho%E2%80%93huxley-ridges/taiaha-pk": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/otago/elcho%E2%80%93huxley-ridges/taiaha-pk", "name": "Taiaha Pk", "altitude": "2241m", "access": null, "description": "Taiaha Pk is known locally as John Thomas Pk, and in the NZAC Barron\u2013Brewster guidebook as Pk 2241. The sharp summit pyramid is the obvious feature as you approach Monument Hut from the south. The peak can be identified by travellers crossing Omarama Saddle in the morning who look north to the Ohau region.", "latlng": [ "-43.958", "169.787" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/otago/elcho%E2%80%93huxley-ridges/taiaha-pk/west-ridge", "name": "West Ridge", "grade": "3", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "3", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": null } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": "The route begins in the upper North Huxley and ascends the west ridge onto\nPeak 2241. Three and a half pitches.", "ascent": "Rob Battersby, Hamish Dunn March 1994" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/otago/elcho%E2%80%93huxley-ridges/taiaha-pk/north-west-face", "name": "North West Face", "grade": "3-", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "3-", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": null } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": "Strike out from the upper section of the Huxley Valley through the dense\nvegetation, gain the upper slopes and climb a couloir toward the superb\nsummit rock pyramid. A diagonal crack leads across the rockwall towards a\nboulder field and the summit.", "ascent": "O.Cantwell, PhilCook, Frank Newmarch, R.Smith April 1939" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/otago/elcho%E2%80%93huxley-ridges/taiaha-pk/south-east-face", "name": "South East Face", "grade": "4", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "4", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": null } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": "Cross the swing bridge at the entrance to the Huxley Valley and climb through\nbeech forest avoiding major bluffs to reach Paradise Valley. Gain access to\nthe face on the true left, and ascend via a permanent rock and snow couloir\nin the centre of the face to finish to the west of the summit. Good\nprotection in parts. Descend from the summit towards Boanerges, and via a\ncouloir to reach Paradise Valley again.", "ascent": "Ron Smoothy, Ellen Smoothy, Roger Thomson January 1983" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/otago/elcho%E2%80%93huxley-ridges/taiaha-pk/paradise-valley", "name": "Paradise Valley", "grade": null, "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": "A four pitch ice climb through the left side of the lower tier.", "ascent": "Thomas Evans, Jackson Green, June 2004" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/otago/elcho%E2%80%93huxley-ridges/taiaha-pk/i%E2%80%99ve-found-cod", "name": "I\u2019ve found Cod", "grade": "WI3", "topo_ref": null, "image": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/route/cod.jpg?itok=UgmgQ54g", "images": [ { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/route/cod.jpg?itok=UgmgQ54g", "height": "202", "width": "300" } ], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": "WI3", "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": null } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": "\"On the right hand edge of the south face, an obvious gully starts from the\nvalley floor and snakes 500 metres up moderately angled terrain, with the odd\nsteeper section, finishing at a spur that leads to the east ridge of John\nThomas Peak. The route is sufficiently clear of the hanging glacier to be\nsafe. The receeding and active hanging glacier makes access to the 1983 first\nascent line of this face by Smoothy and Thomson a tricky affair to do without\nconsiderable risk.\"", "ascent": "Paul Hersey, Graham Zimmerman, September 2006" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/otago/elcho%E2%80%93huxley-ridges/taiaha-pk/east-ridge", "name": "East Ridge", "grade": "4", "topo_ref": null, "image": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/route/er_tah_0.jpg?itok=Q0knsSRB", "images": [ { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/route/er_tah_0.jpg?itok=Q0knsSRB", "height": "202", "width": "300" } ], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "4", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": null } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": "Ascend the snow basin below the east ridge, then traverse onto shattered\nrock. Descent via the west ridge is on good but steep rock. The overall GT is\nabout grade 4.", "ascent": "Shelly Graham, Graham Zimmerman Easter 2007" } ], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/eros-central": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/eros-central", "name": "Eros", "altitude": "2240m", "access": null, "description": "Waipara Range", "latlng": [ "-44.35670648", "168.60266724" ], "routes": [], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aspiring/harris-mountains/fog-pk": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aspiring/harris-mountains/fog-pk", "name": "Fog Pk", "altitude": "2240m", "access": null, "description": null, "latlng": [ "-44.52285841", "168.80439888" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aspiring/harris-mountains/fog-pk/east-ridge", "name": "East Ridge", "grade": "2,II", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": "2", "commitment": "II", "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "Steep tussock slopes on the south side of Niger Stream lead out to the ridge between Niger and Fog Peaks. Fog Peak may be reached, either by traversing the rock ridge to the summit, or by cutting out on to the snowfield on the South Face. This is a long climb from the road and would probably take about eight hours to the summit." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": null }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aspiring/harris-mountains/fog-pk/north-ridge", "name": "North Ridge", "grade": "1,I", "topo_ref": "1", "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": "1", "commitment": "I", "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "From Glenfinnan Peak the straightforward rock of the North Ridge leads to the summit ridge some 200m north-east of the summit." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": null }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aspiring/harris-mountains/fog-pk/west-ridge", "name": "West Ridge", "grade": "2,I", "topo_ref": "2", "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": "2", "commitment": "I", "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "The West Ridge is reached by crossing the North Ridge between Glenfinnan and Fog Peaks and traversing on suitable ledges across the steep North Face of Fog Peak until the West Ridge provides a straightforward route to the summit. To be climbed comfortably, this route would probably require a camp near Glenfinnan Peak." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Paul Powell, Geoff Baylis, 1963" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aspiring/harris-mountains/fog-pk/hmh", "name": "HMH", "grade": "WI3", "topo_ref": "3", "image": null, "images": [], "length": "100m", "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": "WI3", "mixed": null, "length": "50m", "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "The first pitch climbs 80\u00ba stepped ice, ending in an ice cave large enough to shelter four people." }, { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": "WI5", "mixed": null, "length": "50m", "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "The second pitch erupts out of the cave and onto a 40-metre pillar. If the left hand side is climbed, the grade is WI3+ on 85\u00ba stepped ice. If the right side is clung to then vertical grade 5 climbing can be expected. On the first ascent the left-hand side was climbed." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": "This stunning flow is easily reached using a helicopter and then skiing out\ndown the Leaping Burn. It is at the head of the East Branch of the Polnoon\nBurn on the south-eastern slopes of Fog Peak. The name is in recognition of\nthe Heli ski guides who passed on the location of this classic line.", "ascent": "Dave Vass, Allan Uren, Rachel Brown, 1996" } ], "places": [], "image": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/wide/public/image/LowerValley_opt.jpeg?itok=pinAyagK", "images": [ { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/wide/public/image/LowerValley_opt.jpeg?itok=pinAyagK", "height": "236", "width": "447" }, { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/image/FogPeak_fmt.jpeg?itok=WGPs4pBj", "height": "325", "width": "193" } ] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aspiring/forbes-mountains/black-pk": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aspiring/forbes-mountains/black-pk", "name": "Black Pk", "altitude": "2240m", "access": null, "description": null, "latlng": [ "-44.63222538", "168.4218947" ], "routes": [], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki/navigator-range/lyttle-pk": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki/navigator-range/lyttle-pk", "name": "Lyttle Pk", "altitude": "2240m", "access": "There's a route up Architect Creek from just above the swing bridge which goes high through the bush on the true right. It's blazed with pink and orange ribbon and emerges onto the river flats just past the gorge.\nDescent from the summit to Architect Creek is via the Northern slopes, staying close to the North Ridge. At 1900m, descend the easy snow gully down to the base of the West Face.", "description": null, "latlng": [ "-43.59053036", "169.98136015" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki/navigator-range/lyttle-pk/architect", "name": "The Architect", "grade": "16,4-", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": "500m", "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "4-", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": "500m", "bolts": null, "trad": true, "ewbank": "16", "description": null } ], "quality": 1, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": true, "description": "3 pitches of variable quality rock lead into moderate scrambling through the\nmiddle section of the west face. As the face steepens again, trend\nrightwards aiming for the large ledge overhanging the central gully. An\nexposed but short step leads back onto the slabs, which are traversed to the\nfinal pitch on the NE aspect. Good quality rock on upper sections, crux\ngrade 16.", "ascent": "Steve & Pete Harris, 2014" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki/navigator-range/lyttle-pk/bannister-rock", "name": "From Bannister Rock", "grade": "3,III", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": "3", "commitment": "III", "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": null } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": "The route of the first ascent of Lyttle Peak is unknown, but the easiest route appears to gain the steep south-eastern snow face at the bottom left, through a break in the line of bluffs below the face. To reach this point from the Lyttle-Darkwater confluence, ascend a tussock ridge past numerous large boulders, an then traverse north across the top of a prominent waterfall to gain a sloping shelf leading towards Lyttle Peak.", "ascent": "Tom Sheerhan, George Bannister, 1931" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki/navigator-range/lyttle-pk/north-ridge", "name": "North Ridge", "grade": null, "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": "No recorded ascent from Architect Creek. From Whales Saddle there is a steep, unclimbed rock step on the ridge between 1600m and 1700m. The upper part of the ridge can be accessed at 1880m via a snow gully from the head of Architect Creek. The upper ridge was descended by Pete Harris and Steve Harris in April 2014.", "ascent": null } ], "places": [], "image": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/wide/public/image/The%20Architect%20Route.jpg?itok=QicdWOB5", "images": [ { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/wide/public/image/The%20Architect%20Route.jpg?itok=QicdWOB5", "height": "675", "width": "900" } ] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/c58dhau-landsborough/barrier-range/pakeke-pk": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/c58dhau-landsborough/barrier-range/pakeke-pk", "name": "Pakeke Pk", "altitude": "2237m", "access": null, "description": null, "latlng": [ "-44.0968120541", "169.70714461497" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/%C5%8Dhau-landsborough/barrier-range/pakeke-pk/north-ridge", "name": "North Ridge", "grade": "1+,II", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": "1+", "commitment": "II", "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": null } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": "From the Temple-Ahuriri Saddle traverse to the south, passing Pt 2190m, to reach the summit.", "ascent": "First ascent unknown" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/%C5%8Dhau-landsborough/barrier-range/pakeke-pk/fend", "name": "The Fend", "grade": "3", "topo_ref": null, "image": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/route/fend.jpg?itok=iTAamIFl", "images": [ { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/route/fend.jpg?itok=iTAamIFl", "height": "203", "width": "270" } ], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "3", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": null } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": "From the head of west branch South Temple stream crampon up the narrow chute\nto reach the ridge. Stone fall is a possibility.", "ascent": "Paul Hersey, Mat Woods, November 2006" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/%C5%8Dhau-landsborough/barrier-range/pakeke-pk/chess-geeks", "name": "Chess Geeks", "grade": "14,4,III", "topo_ref": null, "image": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/route/chess.jpg?itok=Kdg04TsS", "images": [ { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/route/chess.jpg?itok=Kdg04TsS", "height": "203", "width": "270" } ], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": "4", "commitment": "III", "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": "14", "description": null } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": "Aim for a right-tending ledge system that leads to a slab in the centre of the south-east face. An eight-pitch rock climb plus simul-climbing on reasonable rock, crux grade 14. To descend, head straight down the steep notch on the other side of the summit ridge for one pitch or abseil, then traverse left across broken rock and drop back into the valley south of Pk 2124m.", "ascent": "Dannie Baille, Paul Hersey, February 2007" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/%C5%8Dhau-landsborough/barrier-range/pakeke-pk/hangups-need-company", "name": "Hangups Need Company", "grade": "2,II", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": "2", "commitment": "II", "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": null } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": "From the Temple\u2013Ahuriri Saddle, traverse scree slopes to the base of the north-east face of Pakeke Peak. Climb the steep slope, angling towards a shallow gully that reaches the summit ridge about 50m west of the summit. Descend the same way.", "ascent": "Ross Cullen, April 2012" } ], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/nelson-lakes/spenser-mountains/faerie-queene": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/nelson-lakes/spenser-mountains/faerie-queene", "name": "Faerie Queene", "altitude": "2236m", "access": null, "description": "Spenser Mountains", "latlng": [ "-42.26451057", "172.51517322" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/nelson-lakes/spenser-mountains/faerie-queene/divide-route", "name": "Divide Route", "grade": "1", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": "1", "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "Use Camera Gully route to gain the ridge above the Camera Gully tarn. Easy ridge travel leads to the summit." } ], "quality": 1, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": null }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/nelson-lakes/spenser-mountains/faerie-queene/south-east-face", "name": "South East Face", "grade": "2", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": "2", "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "From the Ada valley floor (map ref. M31/709806) climb a scrubby knoll till below a waterfall. Traverse right, onto a tussock knoll (map ref. M31/708811, small bivvy sites here) and then follow a dry creekbed and up a scrubby step to a sloping ledge. Climb steep snowgrass guts to a scree or snow basin, then directly up to the summit ridge. This face is prone to spring avalanches\r\n(route uncertain)." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "R S Odell, December 1933" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/nelson-lakes/spenser-mountains/faerie-queene/matakitaki-routes", "name": "Matakitaki Routes", "grade": "1", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": "1", "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "From the West Branch, a basin west of Faerie Queene allows access to the summit ridge, and a basin west of Gloriana leads to Camera Gully & Ada Pass routes." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": null } ], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki/sealy-range/mt-annette": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki/sealy-range/mt-annette", "name": "Mt Annette", "altitude": "2235m", "access": null, "description": null, "latlng": [ "-43.7531", "170.0618" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki/sealy-range/mt-annette/hoophorn-spur", "name": "Hoophorn Spur", "grade": "1+,II", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": "1+", "commitment": "II", "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": null } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": "Leads to the edge of the upper Annette Plateau. Not as steep as Sebastopol Ridge at the top, but requires careful route-finding low down to avoid thick scrub. Descend via the Mueller Hut track, be prepared for a very long day. Shave up to 6 hours off the trip by going up on the true right of Hoophorn Stream from the end of the 4WD track, up until about 980m altitude. Then start walking up the scree slope between the two contributaries on the true left, between which the word \"Hoophorn Stream\" is printed in blue on the topomap, aiming to meet the ridge between letters \"p\" and \"h\" of the word \"Hoophorn Spur\" printed in black on the topomap, west of point 1490. Beware, this slope is prone to avalanches in winter. Once on the ridge, follow the ridge to approximately 2060m altitude, and then follow the shelf that leads straight to Mount Annette on the right.", "ascent": null }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki/sealy-range/mt-annette/sebastopol-ridge", "name": "Sebastopol Ridge", "grade": "2+,II,1", "topo_ref": null, "image": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/route/Sebastopol-Ridge-Hugh.jpg?itok=MlFcJmWV", "images": [ { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/route/Sebastopol-Ridge-Hugh.jpg?itok=MlFcJmWV", "height": "244", "width": "325" } ], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": "2+", "commitment": "II", "mtcook": "1", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": null } ], "quality": 2, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": "Traverse or sidle Sebastopol and follow the ridge, at the top using either the steep rock or the snowslope on the right (beware cornice). It is thought that Glenthorne shepherds may have climbed Mt Sebastopol (1468m) in the later 1800s. A really good day out early season combined with a descent via Mueller Hut or the Hoophorn Spur.", "ascent": "Freda du Faur, Peter Graham, November 1910" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki/sealy-range/mt-annette/mueller-hut", "name": "From Mueller Hut", "grade": "1,I", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": "0m", "pitches": [ { "alpine": "1", "commitment": "I", "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": null } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": "0", "natural_pro": false, "description": "From Mueller Hut traverse keeping about 200m below Ollivier and Kitchener and then climb gradually up onto the Annette Plateau. There are two bumps on the eastern edge of the plateau, 500m apart. Mt Annette is the southern one.", "ascent": "Arthur Harper, Percy Johnson, January 1891" } ], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/%C5%8Dhau-landsborough/huxley-range/pt-2235": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/%C5%8Dhau-landsborough/huxley-range/pt-2235", "name": "Pt 2235", "altitude": "2235m", "access": null, "description": null, "latlng": [ "-44.0343", "169.7177" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/%C5%8Dhau-landsborough/huxley-range/pt-2235/east-ridge", "name": "East Ridge", "grade": "1", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "1", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": null } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": "Climb to the south west from the South Huxley.", "ascent": "Bob Bauld, George Moir, Arch Wiren, December 1947" } ], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/canterbury-westland-alps/main-divide/mt-wanda": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/canterbury-westland-alps/main-divide/mt-wanda", "name": "Mt Wanda", "altitude": "2234m", "access": null, "description": "Marked as Pt 2234 on Topo maps", "latlng": [ "-43.259831", "170.867357" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/canterbury-westland-alps/main-divide/mt-wanda/south", "name": "From the South", "grade": null, "topo_ref": "FS", "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "Climb the Clarke Glacier and then straightforward rock to the summit." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "John Pascoe, Stan Conway, John Clegg, February 1946" } ], "places": [], "image": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/wide/public/image/Wanda.png?itok=j3oVPQRi", "images": [ { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/wide/public/image/Wanda.png?itok=j3oVPQRi", "height": "618", "width": "900" }, { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/image/Wanda_0.png?itok=TMm1XhFX", "height": "164", "width": "325" } ] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/otago/hector-mountains/ben-nevis": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/otago/hector-mountains/ben-nevis", "name": "Ben Nevis", "altitude": "2234m", "access": null, "description": "Second highest peak in the Hector Mountains accessible from either the Nevis River or Lake Wakatipu.", "latlng": [ "-45.16782856", "168.84837792" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/otago/hector-mountains/ben-nevis/east-ridge", "name": "East Ridge", "grade": "1", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "1", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "From Schoolhouse Flat, follow up the 4WD south of the creek and later, follow up the creek until under the tarns. Climb to the tarns and then onto the East Ridge. Scramble to the summit." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": null } ], "places": [], "image": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/wide/public/image/1-P1030062.JPG?itok=lJyapWfs", "images": [ { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/wide/public/image/1-P1030062.JPG?itok=lJyapWfs", "height": "600", "width": "900" } ] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/nelson-lakes/spenser-mountains/duessa-pk": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/nelson-lakes/spenser-mountains/duessa-pk", "name": "Duessa Pk", "altitude": "2233m", "access": null, "description": "A close neighbour to Una (One Truth); in Spenser\u2019s poem Duessa (Double Truth) is the daughter of Falsehood and Shame, who disguises herself to beguile the Red Cross Knight (St George) who has been sent by Gloriana to slay the dragon.", "latlng": [ "-42.2233", "172.5839" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/nelson-lakes/spenser-mountains/duessa-pk/christopher-route", "name": "Christopher Route", "grade": "1", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": "1", "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "Christopher Route\r\nGain a good leading spur from the junction of the West and East Christopher." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": null }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/nelson-lakes/spenser-mountains/duessa-pk/glacier-gully-route", "name": "Glacier Gully Route", "grade": "2", "topo_ref": "1", "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": "2", "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "From the shelf above the cirque wall of Una's Glacier Gully routes. Climb a couloir (visible from Maling Pass) onto the ridge south-east of the peak." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": null } ], "places": [], "image": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/wide/public/image/Screen%2520shot%25202011-06-29%2520at%25206.03.36%2520PM%5B1%5D.jpg?itok=O0ItvZvd", "images": [ { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/wide/public/image/Screen%2520shot%25202011-06-29%2520at%25206.03.36%2520PM%5B1%5D.jpg?itok=O0ItvZvd", "height": "470", "width": "777" } ] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/nelson-lakes/franklin-ridge/pt-2232": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/nelson-lakes/franklin-ridge/pt-2232", "name": "Pt 2232", "altitude": "2232m", "access": null, "description": null, "latlng": [ "-42.06898376", "172.68138885" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/nelson-lakes/franklin-ridge/pt-2232/south-ridge", "name": "South Ridge", "grade": "1", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": "1", "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "From the moraine wall above Blue Lake sidle high above Lake Constance to a high col (map ref. M30/835036). From the col a narrow ledge angles on to western slabs and regains the ridge above a vertical section. The remainder of the ridge is narrow and difficult." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": null } ], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/otago/barrier-range/elusive-peak": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/otago/barrier-range/elusive-peak", "name": "Elusive Pk", "altitude": "2231m", "access": null, "description": "TBA", "latlng": [ "-44.17520423077", "169.71728004987" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/otago/barrier-range/elusive-peak/south-temple", "name": "From the South Temple", "grade": "2", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "2", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": null } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": "This aesthetic peak is accessible from South Temple Hut. Follow 6.19 to\nreach the tarns at 1864 m. Sidle past the tarns on the west side over a col\nand climb the NW slopes of peak 2231m. Chose a route up the steepish summit\ntower.", "ascent": "First ascent unknown but climbed by Ross Cullen and Bill Mcleod, March 2002" } ], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/%C5%8Dhau-landsborough/huxley-range/pt-2230": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/%C5%8Dhau-landsborough/huxley-range/pt-2230", "name": "Pt 2230", "altitude": "2230m", "access": null, "description": null, "latlng": [ "-44.1168600834", "169.637802981" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/%C5%8Dhau-landsborough/huxley-range/pt-2230/north-east-ridge", "name": "North East Ridge", "grade": null, "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": "Begin at G38 GR 429723. Commence the ridge via a weakness in the bluff (ledge\nor easy gully) to reach the broad tussock ridge at about 1300m. Gain height\non the ridge turning steeper sections on the SE until reach 2000m. Cross\nridge to NW to reach top basin, traverse the snow and scree, and scramble\nrock pyramid to summit. The kumara shaped tarn can be reached by descending\nthe bluff below the upper basin, or by traversing from 1900m on NE ridge to\njust above the tarn outlet.", "ascent": "Rob Blackburne, Ross Cullen, January 2008" } ], "places": [], "image": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/wide/public/image/p2230m.jpg?itok=mM-4TjQq", "images": [ { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/wide/public/image/p2230m.jpg?itok=mM-4TjQq", "height": "410", "width": "350" } ] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aspiring/humboldt-mountains/poseidon-pk": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aspiring/humboldt-mountains/poseidon-pk", "name": "Poseidon Pk", "altitude": "2229m", "access": null, "description": null, "latlng": [ "-44.57900538", "168.23293445" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aspiring/humboldt-mountains/poseidon-pk/standard-route", "name": "Standard Route", "grade": null, "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "The low peak can be climbed from Park Glacier to a small peak and from there along the sharp ar\u00eate to the west. The high peak is reached from the Niobe side and ends in a rock pinnacle. From Beans Burn, leave river at E40 340 153 up into valley and up East Face." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": null } ], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/canterbury/armoury-range/scimitar-pk": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/canterbury/armoury-range/scimitar-pk", "name": "Scimitar Pk", "altitude": "2225m", "access": null, "description": null, "latlng": [ "-43.341285", "170.824442" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/canterbury/armoury-range/scimitar-pk/south-west-ridge", "name": "South West Ridge", "grade": "1", "topo_ref": "SW", "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "1", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "An easy climb from a camp at the junction of the McCoy and Billy McCoy Streams. Follow\r\nscree and snow slopes to the top." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Ewen McCann, Colin Burrows, Al Moore, Peter Bain, December 1975" } ], "places": [], "image": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/wide/public/image/Scimitar.png?itok=TzWHBNH5", "images": [ { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/wide/public/image/Scimitar.png?itok=TzWHBNH5", "height": "570", "width": "900" } ] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/canterbury-westland-alps/cloudy-peak-range/ferrar-pk": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/canterbury-westland-alps/cloudy-peak-range/ferrar-pk", "name": "Ferrar Pk", "altitude": "2225m", "access": null, "description": "Part of Cloudy Pk rock climbing area.\nFirst climbed by Bryan Barrer and Frank Askin, December 1931.", "latlng": [ "-43.46945378", "170.7868776" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/canterbury/cloudy-peak-range/ferrar-pk/zero-hero", "name": "Zero the Hero", "grade": "14", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": true, "ewbank": "14", "description": "" } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": true, "description": "Climb left of the large chimney on the slabby north-west aspect of the peak.", "ascent": "Peter Dickson" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/canterbury/cloudy-peak-range/ferrar-pk/central-chimney", "name": "Central Chimney", "grade": null, "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": true, "ewbank": null, "description": "" } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": true, "description": "Climb the large chimney.", "ascent": "Matt Gilchrist, Tawny Wagstaff, April 2010" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/canterbury/cloudy-peak-range/ferrar-pk/bring-your-daughter-slaughter", "name": "Bring Your Daughter to the Slaughter", "grade": "10", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": true, "ewbank": "10", "description": "" } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": true, "description": "Keep right of the chimney.", "ascent": "Peter Dickson, 1992" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/canterbury/cloudy-peak-range/ferrar-pk/south-ridge", "name": "South Ridge", "grade": null, "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "The first ascent was \u2018a hen-cackle\u2019 \u2013 the climbers were aiming for Cloudy Peak." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Bryan Barrer, Frank Askin, 26 December 1931" } ], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/fiordland/darran-mountains/mt-grave": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/fiordland/darran-mountains/mt-grave", "name": "Mt Grave", "altitude": "2225m", "access": null, "description": "Darran Mountains", "latlng": [ "-44.59229119", "167.95302855" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/fiordland/darran-mountains/mt-grave/west-ridge", "name": "West Ridge", "grade": null, "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": "Cross the Harrison River above Wairereata Falls and follow the east bank\nuntil opposite the South Ridge of Te Hau. Steep climbing up a watercourse\nleads to the ridge between Benton Peak and Bowen Col. Continue past the col\nand over Mitis Peak to a gap in the ridge which is passed easily via ledges\non the Harrison side. Regain the ridge and climb two steep rock steps to the\nsummit.", "ascent": "Paul Powell, Jack Ede, Roland Rodda, December 1946" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/fiordland/darran-mountains/mt-grave/north-rib", "name": "North Rib", "grade": null, "topo_ref": null, "image": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/route/fiordland%2024.jpg?itok=7tecby2x", "images": [ { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/route/fiordland%2024.jpg?itok=7tecby2x", "height": "244", "width": "325" } ], "length": null, "pitches": [], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": "Access is via a shelf above Selwyn Creek (Harrison Valley), accessed by first\nascent party via Tutoko Valley and Grave Couloir. Good campsites and poor\nbivvy rocks on the shelf. From the shelf gain steep slabs at 1500m and climb\nup and right to reach the crest of the North Rib, which can be followed for\nmost of the route (crux grade 16). First ascent party traversed west of the\nrib twice on the lower half of the route, and briefly to the east 100m below\nthe summit. Rock quality on the route is poor on most of the climb, except\nfor the water-worn approach slabs, and heavily vegetated below 1950m. First\nascent party soloed the route except for five 20-35m pitches: two at the\nstart of the rib; two to gain the rib after the second traverse west; and one\nat the top of the rib. Abseil descent (single rope abseils recommended due to\nblocky rock; a rope jam at 2170m resulted in a forced bivvy \u2013 cold!). Party\nwalked out via slabs below Ngapunatoru Plateau, Lake Never Never, Lake\nPukutahi and Harrison Valley.", "ascent": "Rob Frost, Guy McKinnon, Andrei van Dusschoten, 26 January 2010" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/fiordland/darran-mountains/mt-grave/north-east-ridge", "name": "North East Ridge", "grade": null, "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": "From the top of Grave\u2019s Couloir take the easy ridge to the base of the\nNorth Wall, then climb steep rock for 150m to snow slopes and the summit.", "ascent": "S Taylor, Derek Winter, 1963" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/fiordland/darran-mountains/mt-grave/north-east-ridge-direct-approach", "name": "North East Ridge - Direct approach", "grade": null, "topo_ref": null, "image": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/route/P1050329.JPG?itok=I6z-e8C1", "images": [ { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/route/P1050329.JPG?itok=I6z-e8C1", "height": "244", "width": "325" } ], "length": null, "pitches": [], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": "Start from the foot of Grave Couloir, 150m above the valley floor, and\ntraverse left on broad terraces to a rib that leads to the North Ridge.\nInvolves some steps of about grade 10 to exit the couloir but becomes easier\nwith height.", "ascent": "Bill McLeod" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/fiordland/darran-mountains/mt-grave/grave-couloir", "name": "Grave Couloir", "grade": null, "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": "Grave\u2019s Couloir is a 1200m snow and ice couloir up to Tutoko Saddle. It is\nthe best route out of the head of the valley to climb Mt Grave and provides\naccess to the Ngapunatoru Plateau.\nThe couloir is prone to rock-fall in rain and warm weather and may be very\nbroken late in the season. If this is the case it may be possible to exit the\ncouloir at half height heading directly for the North Ridge of Grave, then\ntraverse this back to the saddle.", "ascent": "J R Don, William Don, A C Gifford, W G Grave, December 1897" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/fiordland/darran-mountains/mt-grave/south-ridge", "name": "South Ridge", "grade": null, "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": "The South Ridge snakes along for 8km between Barren Peak and Mt Grave,\nascending roughly 650m. It provides some very good climbing with excellent\nprotection on solid granite for the first 6km, however the final 2km is made\nup of loose rock and numerous gendarmes on a razorback ridge, with steep\ndrops into the Bowen River on the west and the Tutoko River on the east.\nTravel time from Barren to Grave approx 18 hours. Descent via the West Ridge\nof Grave to Bowen Col and then down the Harrison River.\nThe party spent three and a half days ascending the ridge on the first\nascent.", "ascent": "Kevin Helm, Conway Powell, Richard Price, Barry Scott, December 1972" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/fiordland/darran-mountains/mt-grave/west-face", "name": "West Face", "grade": null, "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "No recorded ascent" } ], "places": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/fiordland/darran-mountains/mt-grave/east-face", "name": "East Face", "altitude": null, "access": null, "description": null, "latlng": null, "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/fiordland/darran-mountains/mt-grave/east-face/taylor-schwamm-scott", "name": "Taylor-Schwamm-Scott", "grade": null, "topo_ref": null, "image": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/2024-03/grave%20EF%20-%20jons%20approx%20line.png?itok=85Dkcq7V", "images": [ { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/2024-03/grave%20EF%20-%20jons%20approx%20line.png?itok=85Dkcq7V", "height": "181", "width": "325" } ], "length": "0m", "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "unknown" } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": "0", "natural_pro": false, "description": "Cutting over from part way up Grave's couloir (see route 'North East Ridge - Direct Approach'), a reasonable bivvy was made not far below the ridge linking Grave to its eponymous couloir. The next day a rock route was climbed - the obvious depression/gut in the photograph (probably the one draining the Glacier) being way over to the left , the climb being much closer to the NR. Jon aided the corner crux. From the topout was just a short plod to the summit.\n\"Summited at 3pm on Sunday so a bit of a rush back down the hill. Worthwhile summit\"\nThe line in the attached photo is extremely approximate indication only - indicating only the side of the face climbed.", "ascent": "Jon Taylor, Kev Schwamm, Bryan Scott, c. 1998 (?)" } ], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] } ], "image": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/wide/public/image/Grave.jpg?itok=uk74j_Pg", "images": [ { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/wide/public/image/Grave.jpg?itok=uk74j_Pg", "height": "227", "width": "320" } ] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aspiring/forbes-mountains/east-osonzac-twins-pk": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aspiring/forbes-mountains/east-osonzac-twins-pk", "name": "East Osonzac Twins Pk", "altitude": "2225m", "access": null, "description": "(Previously referred to as North Peak)\nFirst ascent East Peak E.O. Dawson, A.R. Craigie, W.S. Gilkison Jan. 1938.", "latlng": [ "-44.551944", "168.458037" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aspiring/forbes-mountains/east-osonzac-twins-pk/east-face", "name": "East Face", "grade": "1,I", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": "0m", "pitches": [ { "alpine": "1", "commitment": "I", "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": null } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": "0", "natural_pro": false, "description": "The south spur of Clarke can be reached from the North Hunter or via the Clarke Slip from the Rees and is followed until the glacier under Clarke can be crossed to Pyramid Col. The level traverse continues under the south-east face until snow slopes and rocks can be climbed to the summit.", "ascent": null }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aspiring/forbes-mountains/east-osonzac-twins-pk/traverse", "name": "Traverse", "grade": "II,2", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": "II", "mtcook": "2", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "It is possible to traverse the Osonzac Twins but it is necessary to drop on to the Dart side." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": null } ], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/darrans/darran-mountains/ngaitahu-pk": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/darrans/darran-mountains/ngaitahu-pk", "name": "Ngaitahu Pk", "altitude": "2224m", "access": null, "description": null, "latlng": null, "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/darrans/darran-mountains/ngaitahu-pk/west-ridge", "name": "West Ridge", "grade": null, "topo_ref": "11", "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "Ascend to the Col between Te Wera and Ngaitahu then easy scrambling along the ridge to the summit." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Phil Houghton, Mike Gill, Feb 1959." }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/darrans/darran-mountains/ngaitahu-pk/east-ridge", "name": "East Ridge", "grade": null, "topo_ref": "12", "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Harold Jacobs, Murray Jones, Feb 1969." }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/darrans/darran-mountains/ngaitahu-pk/ngai-all-night", "name": "Ngai On All Night", "grade": "20,III", "topo_ref": null, "image": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/routes/ngai_on.jpg?itok=K3lVf8ca", "images": [ { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/routes/ngai_on.jpg?itok=K3lVf8ca", "height": "244", "width": "325" } ], "length": "500m", "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": "III", "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": "500m", "bolts": null, "trad": true, "ewbank": "20", "description": "Ten pitches. A long route on compact, difficult-to-read rock that offers sparse protection. Scramble up 100 metres to belay. Three easy pitches, then another through an overlap and up and left to belay. The fifth pitch (crux) takes an intricate line on beautiful coarse stone. Continue to the top, generally trending right to find runners and easier ground." } ], "quality": 1, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": true, "description": "The north face of Ng\u0101itahu is easily visible from the lower Hollyford valley and has plenty of scope for more routes. Descent on the first ascent was to the col between Ng\u0101itahu and Te Wera and then the Te Puoho Glacier, Karetai Col, and Lindsays Ledges to Lake Turner.", "ascent": "Rich Thomson, Rich Turner, Dave Vass, February 2008" } ], "places": [], "image": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/wide/public/image/Darrans-Ngaitahu.jpeg?itok=eUuSC71G", "images": [ { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/wide/public/image/Darrans-Ngaitahu.jpeg?itok=eUuSC71G", "height": "818", "width": "1090" } ] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/westland/john-pascoe-ridge/garden-of-allah-ice-pleateau/mt-stoddart": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/westland/john-pascoe-ridge/garden-of-allah-ice-pleateau/mt-stoddart", "name": "Mt Stoddart", "altitude": "2223m", "access": "The routes \"From Lord Valley\" & \"NW Ridge, are sometimes combined as a pack route between the Lord Valley and the Lambert Glacier. Teichelmann used this route on the 6th Feb 1911 on his first ascent of Mt Tyndall.\nIt is also practical to access the upper Mad Water from the basin north of Stoddart. From the basin, sidle around and down to a shelf with two tarns at 1300m and continue along it to where it finishes, overlooking the Mad Water. The steep gully beyond, shown as a tiny creek on the map, is not practical to descend from up here. Instead, descend a steep rock and tussock rib on the true left of it with care, sidling into the gravel gully about 60m height above the Mad Water and following it down. Some looking around may be necessary but it works with care. Travel up the Mad Water at stream level from here is ok, but downstream is a waterfalled canyon. Slopes to the east above the Lord can be approached from here.", "description": "na", "latlng": [ "-43.28764", "170.788479" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/westland/john-pascoe-ridge/garden-of-allah-ice-pleateau/mt-stoddart/north-west-ridge", "name": "North West Ridge", "grade": "1+", "topo_ref": "NWR", "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "1+", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "To access the ridge from the Lambert Glacier, sidle up onto the O Neil Glacier and gain the ridge along snow or rock leads at about the 1640m contour. Among the rocks on this ridge are the remains of an abandoned, partly pitched, K2 style tent that could probably tell quite a story. The ridge above is easy, gravel and snow with a bit of bedrock near the top." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "EW Cotter, JL Clegg, MJ Conway, Jan 1941." }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/westland/john-pascoe-ridge/garden-of-allah-ice-pleateau/mt-stoddart/lord-valley", "name": "From the Lord Valley", "grade": "1+", "topo_ref": "LV", "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "1+", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "Between the Madwater and the next stream downvalley, climb up through scrub heading south. Reach the scrubline at J35 313683, and head over a shoulder to the south into a basin at the 1400m contour. There are wonderful campsites in this basin and up on a terrace just above it to the west. Follow tussock and scree up to pt 1544m then climb the ridge, usually crossing at the 1900m contour to the rib overlooking the O'Neil Glacier for the final climb." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": null }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/westland/john-pascoe-ridge/garden-of-allah-ice-pleateau/mt-stoddart/south-ridge", "name": "South Ridge", "grade": "2", "topo_ref": "SR", "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "2", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "From Gardarene Col. A schrund near Stoddart itself can be problematic." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "J Rundle, P Quin, A Estrick, B Ahern, Jan1968" } ], "places": [], "image": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/wide/public/image/P215.png?itok=_NooBbEU", "images": [ { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/wide/public/image/P215.png?itok=_NooBbEU", "height": "900", "width": "764" } ] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/arthurs-pass/black-range/mt-harper": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/arthurs-pass/black-range/mt-harper", "name": "Mt Harper", "altitude": "2222m", "access": null, "description": "A P Harper was a founder member of the New Zealand Alpine Club.", "latlng": [ "-42.9916842", "171.41345501" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/arthurs-pass/black-range/mt-harper/harper-creek", "name": "From Harper Creek", "grade": "2", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": "2", "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": null } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": "Gain green spur on the true right of the waterfall, then link together a\nseries of terraces and spurs that lead to the lip of the upper waterfall.\nBeyond this is the huge ice/snowfield under the eastern flank of Mt Harper.\nAscend the snow until the rock is gained at the low saddle, then to the\nsummit on loose rock/ice.", "ascent": null }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/arthurs-pass/black-range/mt-harper/camp-spur", "name": "Camp Spur", "grade": "1", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": "1", "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": null } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": "This route is best achieved by following the first side creek met when\nleaving Carrington Hut towards the cableway. Once through the initial bush\nbash, keep to the true left of the creek (about 50\u201360m), some old rock\ncairns may be found. A steep scree gully is intercepted that leads through a\nvisible gut in the cliffs to reach the easier slopes below the bushline. From\nhere cairns lead to the broad tussock slopes of the ridge (an old trig\nstation will be passed). The final ascent is on snow slopes, a steep rock\npinch, then easy ridge to the summit. Some 1994 earthquake damage may prevail\non this route.", "ascent": null }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/arthurs-pass/black-range/mt-harper/west-face", "name": "West Face", "grade": null, "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": "This face has surprisingly good rock, the shortcoming being that it hasn\u2019t\nhad enough ascents to dislodge the numerous chockstones and loose scree\njammed in its rifts and cracks.\nThe best approach is from White Col, sidling out northwards until standing\nbeneath the chosen route. Most of the obvious lines provide plenty of 'cam\nbreaks'. The going towards the South Ridge gets a little scrappy, but\notherwise provides some good cranking.\nThe face isn't recommended after fresh snow, as airborne avalanches wash the\nentire wall.", "ascent": null }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/arthurs-pass/black-range/mt-harper/south-west-face", "name": "South West Face", "grade": "3", "topo_ref": "A", "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": "3", "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": null } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": "Can be approached by the steep South West Face and Ridge (reasonable rock and\nlines) from White Col.", "ascent": null }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/arthurs-pass/black-range/mt-harper/south-west-ridge", "name": "South West Ridge", "grade": "1", "topo_ref": "B", "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": "1", "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": null } ], "quality": 1, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": "Normally climbed from White Col, via the large southern snowslope joining the\nSouth West Ridge to the summit.", "ascent": "C K Ward and A E Talbot, March 1913" } ], "places": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/arthurs-pass/black-range/mt-harper/camp-spur-slabs", "name": "Camp Spur Slabs", "altitude": null, "access": null, "description": "The approach to these slabs is across the permanent snowfields underlying the north ridge of Mt Speight, then onto the permanent snowfield under the southeast flank of Mt Harper. Both of the routes shown commence near the toe of a rock slab comprising \u201csolid\u201d greywacke, and follow weaknesses in the face.\nThe face is about 70 metres at highest point and 15\u201320 metres across. Sixty metre ropes are good, a set of wires with doubles of mids and a handful of cams should see you right.\nThere is potential for a couple more routes on the face.", "latlng": null, "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/arthurs-pass/black-range/mt-harper/camp-spur-slabs/left-hand-route", "name": "Left-hand Route", "grade": "17", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": "50m", "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": "50m", "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": "17", "description": "Climbs on the face to the right of the arete. Good gear can be found on the face through cracks and breaks. 50 metres of interesting climbing on good rock." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "J Dempster, A Gillespie, 13 December 2008" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/arthurs-pass/black-range/mt-harper/camp-spur-slabs/right-hand-route", "name": "Right-hand Route", "grade": "17", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": "55m", "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": "55m", "bolts": null, "trad": true, "ewbank": "17", "description": "The right-hand route starts near the centre of the face; head up and slightly right following gear to about the middle of the face. Straight up from here. Good gear but a bit spaced at times." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": true, "description": null, "ascent": "J Dempster, A Gillespie, 13 December 2008" } ], "places": [], "image": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/wide/public/image/harper_camp_spur_slabs.jpg?itok=5OmX6cbs", "images": [ { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/wide/public/image/harper_camp_spur_slabs.jpg?itok=5OmX6cbs", "height": "360", "width": "480" } ] } ], "image": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/wide/public/image/AP027.jpg?itok=x26M6qvj", "images": [ { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/wide/public/image/AP027.jpg?itok=x26M6qvj", "height": "474", "width": "709" } ] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/darrans/darran-mountains/mt-underwood": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/darrans/darran-mountains/mt-underwood", "name": "Mt Underwood", "altitude": "2222m", "access": null, "description": null, "latlng": [ "-44.673768", "168.0037567" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/darrans/darran-mountains/mt-underwood/south-ridge", "name": "South Ridge", "grade": null, "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "From the Milford Road climb steep bush and tussock to the rocky ridge." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Harold Jacobs, Paul Coradine, Jan 1971." }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/darrans/darran-mountains/mt-underwood/east-face-buttress", "name": "East Face Buttress", "grade": null, "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "A 300m buttress up to the South Ridge." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Galen Rowell, Miles Craighead, Graeme Elder, John Stanton, Feb 1977." }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/darrans/darran-mountains/mt-underwood/donne-south-face", "name": "Donne (South) Face", "grade": null, "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "The climb takes the left of two prominent ribs to the ridge north of the summit. Scramble up a small snow chute down-valley from the most prominent one. Veer left across tussock to the first rock slabs then climb a mixture of wet slabs and overhanging snow grass to a prominent shelf. Climb the snowfield to the foot of a left tending rib which leads to the second prominent shelf. Climb the first buttress (a mixture of aid and free climbing) to another snowfield then climb a second buttresses of poorer quality rock. Climb beside the third buttress of rotten rock exiting via a snow gully leading to the summit ridge." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Colin Strang, Allan Soon, Mark Easton, David Ellis, Jan 1974." }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/darrans/darran-mountains/mt-underwood/north-east-ridge", "name": "North East Ridge", "grade": null, "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "From Patuki Col climb the snow-field to the ridge.\r\nIn December 1955 Lloyd Warburton, Gerry Hall-Jones, Lindsay Bruce and Reg Scott climbed Mt Underwood\u2019s north east ridge via the Taoko Icefall." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Lindsay Stewart, David Lewis, 1938." }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/darrans/darran-mountains/mt-underwood/taoka-icefall", "name": "Taoka Icefall", "grade": null, "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "The icefall between Underwood and Karetai offers a route from the head of the Donne Valley to Patuki Col. Climb the corner against the face of Karetai and traverse the slabs below the icefall towards Mt Underwood, then head back across the snowfield to Patuki Col." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": null } ], "places": [], "image": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/wide/public/image/Darrans-Underwood.jpeg?itok=Ft0TvlGY", "images": [ { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/wide/public/image/Darrans-Underwood.jpeg?itok=Ft0TvlGY", "height": "818", "width": "1090" } ] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/nelson-lakes/franklin-ridge/pt-2220": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/nelson-lakes/franklin-ridge/pt-2220", "name": "Pt 2220", "altitude": "2220m", "access": null, "description": "The southern of two Pt 2220 metres on Franklin Ridge.", "latlng": [ "-42.08822291", "172.67975807" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/nelson-lakes/franklin-ridge/pt-2220/north-west-face", "name": "North West Face", "grade": "1", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": "1", "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "Head south-east from the head of Lake Constance, and climb tussock spurs to a long scree ribbon falling between rock ribs and reaching high on the face to a point hard under the west rib. Ascend this, then climb a gut on to the west rib, near the summit." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": null } ], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/nelson-lakes/st-arnaud-range/kehu-pk": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/nelson-lakes/st-arnaud-range/kehu-pk", "name": "Kehu Pk", "altitude": "2220m", "access": null, "description": "All routes reached from the Begley and Rainbow valleys are steep, and probably best done as spring snow or ice climbs.\nThis magnificent peak has some of the best climbing in the park, with nice rock on the normal summer route, and more difficult winter and spring climbs. It is the only major Travers Valley peak visible from Lake Rotoiti, and is named after Thomas Brunner\u2019s Maori guide Kehu (or Ekehu) without whom his epic 18 month journey from Nelson to Paringa would have been impossible.", "latlng": [ "-42.0369", "172.7552" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/nelson-lakes/st-arnaud-range/kehu-pk/south-face-gully", "name": "South Face Gully", "grade": "3+", "topo_ref": "A", "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": "3+", "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "Via Begley Ck. The face is split by an obvious hanging gully, very steep at the bottom, then at an easier angle to the short ridge joining the north and south summits of Kehu. In October the steep bottom of the gully is one pitch of consistently superb plastic ice, about 75\u00ba. Magnificent." } ], "quality": 1, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": null }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/nelson-lakes/st-arnaud-range/kehu-pk/south-face-direct", "name": "South Face Direct", "grade": "3+", "topo_ref": "B", "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": "3+", "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "Via Begley Ck. To the right of the steep gully (South Face Gully route) is a shallow steep gully. Angle up to the top edge of a steep snow-covered slab. Traverse the slab a short distance (very exposed) or crawl under a small rocky overhang onto easier slopes, topping out on the south summit." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": null }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/nelson-lakes/st-arnaud-range/kehu-pk/west-face-gully", "name": "West Face Gully", "grade": "3", "topo_ref": "C", "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": "3", "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "Via Begley Ck Climb around the toe of a buttress and into a wide easy gully on the western side of Kehu. Look for an obvious gully on the right, walled by steep rock. The gully snakes up and tops out above the buttress, beside two shark's teeth shaped rocks. Traverse across and into the hanging gully of South Face route . Alternatively, climb to the ridge above, from where it is possible to descend onto upper slopes on the Travers side (see Travers Face Route & West Face routes). Other ice gullies on this face have yet to be explored." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": null }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/nelson-lakes/st-arnaud-range/kehu-pk/travers-west-face", "name": "Travers West Face", "grade": "3", "topo_ref": "D", "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": "3", "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "Via Begley Ck. The wide gully of West Face route leads to the ridge between point 2096m and the summit. Descend on the Travers side and sidle steep slopes or a gully to the peak." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": null }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/nelson-lakes/st-arnaud-range/kehu-pk/begley-face", "name": "Begley Face", "grade": "2", "topo_ref": "E", "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": "2", "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "Keep mostly on the true right of the west branch of the Begley, through bush into an upper basin. Climb easy slopes and at map ref. N30/902080 cross a spur into a hanging valley north-east of the peak. A narrow gut at the head of the valley, to the right of rock bluffs, tops out just north of the summit. Alternatively, snow slopes to the left of the bluffs lead to a gully, which tops out just south of the summit." } ], "quality": 1, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": null }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/nelson-lakes/st-arnaud-range/kehu-pk/north-west-face", "name": "North West Face", "grade": "2+", "topo_ref": "F", "image": null, "images": [], "length": "0m", "pitches": [ { "alpine": "2+", "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "From Upper Travers Hut, climb tussock and scree to a wide shelf. Sidle south then ascend a major scree basin under Kehu to the steep firm rock of the face. There are several routes onto the rock face (e.g. via a short gully on the lefthand edge) leading to the range above and then a scramble south to the summit." } ], "quality": 1, "bolts": "0", "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "J Stanton, J Taylor, R Lamberton, L J Dumbleton, April 1947." }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/nelson-lakes/st-arnaud-range/kehu-pk/north-ridge", "name": "North Ridge", "grade": "3+", "topo_ref": "G", "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": "3+", "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "A traverse of the divide from Begley Saddle is long. A sharp rock fin requires cheval tactics then the ridge rises in steps. From a shallow col descend west to North West Face route." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": null }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/nelson-lakes/st-arnaud-range/kehu-pk/west-ridge", "name": "West Ridge", "grade": "3+", "topo_ref": "H", "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": "3+", "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "Via Travers Valley. The south-west head of the scree basin in route 5.12 leads to slabs and ribs under a low point on the divide. The spiky and difficult ridge rises steeply to the summit." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": null }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/nelson-lakes/st-arnaud-range/kehu-pk/west-face", "name": "West Face", "grade": "3", "topo_ref": "I", "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": "3", "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "Via Travers Valley. Follow the basin in the West Ridge route south, around the toe of the north-west face, to where a steep and rotten gully (good ice in winter) gives a route to the divide immediately north of the summit." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": null }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/nelson-lakes/st-arnaud-range/kehu-pk/southwest-buttress", "name": "Southwest Buttress", "grade": "2+", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": "2+", "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": null } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": "From the Rainbow, climb from the toe of the buttress up to the western outlier's peak. Crux 10. Descend to the Travers Valley.", "ascent": "Steven Fortune, Julia Valigore, Nov 2013" } ], "places": [], "image": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/wide/public/image/Screen%20shot%202011-06-29%20at%205.54.44%20PM.jpg?itok=jDbilhTK", "images": [ { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/wide/public/image/Screen%20shot%202011-06-29%20at%205.54.44%20PM.jpg?itok=jDbilhTK", "height": "491", "width": "647" }, { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/image/Screen%20shot%202011-06-29%20at%205.55.51%20PM_0.jpg?itok=RlYc1NOS", "height": "181", "width": "325" }, { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/image/1-PB130092.JPG?itok=OXNrg9hh", "height": "244", "width": "325" } ] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/otago/barrier-range/mt-peterson": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/otago/barrier-range/mt-peterson", "name": "Mt Peterson", "altitude": "2220m", "access": null, "description": "On Barrier Range", "latlng": [ "-44.22106035", "169.68892822" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/otago/barrier-range/mt-peterson/hodgkinson-creek", "name": "From Hodgkinson Creek", "grade": "1", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "1", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": null } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": "From Hodgkinson Creek in the Ahuriri valley, climb up scree slopes to gain\nthe base of Mt Peterson in the form of a huge rocky outcrop. Head left and up\nthe obvious rock gullies to the summit. Beware of loose and falling rock.\nWear a helmet!", "ascent": null } ], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aspiring/snowdrift-range/the-snowman": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aspiring/snowdrift-range/the-snowman", "name": "The Snowman", "altitude": "2220m", "access": null, "description": "tba", "latlng": [ "-44.453688", "168.530253" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aspiring/snowdrift-range/the-snowman/standard-routes", "name": "Standard Routes", "grade": null, "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "Reach the col between Mt Alpha and The Snowman from Whitbourn Saddle via the Snow Dome and east Snowball Glacier and ascend ridge. An \r\nalternative is to climb direct from the glacier." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": null } ], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/nelson-lakes/franklin-ridge/pt-2200": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/nelson-lakes/franklin-ridge/pt-2200", "name": "Pt 2200", "altitude": "2220m", "access": null, "description": "The northern of two Pt 2220 metres on Franklin Ridge.", "latlng": [ "-42.07764847", "172.67915726" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/nelson-lakes/franklin-ridge/pt-2200/north-ridge", "name": "North Ridge", "grade": "1", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": "1", "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "A short ascent up loose rock and slabs leads from the saddle in the South Ridge of Peak 2232 to just north of the summit." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": null }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/nelson-lakes/franklin-ridge/pt-2200/south-ridge", "name": "South Ridge", "grade": "1", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": "1", "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "Tussock slopes at the head of Lake Constance lead into a scree basin south-west of the peak. Hard routes up rock ribs or guts gain the south ridge." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": null } ], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki-tai-poutini/tatare-range/junction-pk": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki-tai-poutini/tatare-range/junction-pk", "name": "Junction Pk", "altitude": "2219m", "access": null, "description": null, "latlng": [ "-43.41406292", "170.34594428" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki-tai-poutini/tatare-range/junction-pk/wigley-glacier-route", "name": "Wigley Glacier Route", "grade": null, "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "From the upper Gunn River, head up tussock slopes towards a buttressed spur on the true left\r\nof the stream draining the Wigley Glacier. A steep but negotiable gully (requiring scrambling\r\non bedrock), about 100 metres before the Wigley River issues from a slit gorge, leads through\r\nbluffs to rocky knolls above and gravel flats further up the valley. Lower ice shown on the map\r\nbelow 1600 metres has now largely gone. From I35 958525 / BW16 858 909, gain access to the\r\nupper Wigley Glacier via a diagonal ledge that doesn\u2019t look promising from below on the true\r\nright of the icefall. This gravel ledge leads easily up beside the icefall to where the ice and upper\r\nglacier can be accessed. Crevasses may make this more difficult with ice recession and later in\r\nsummer. From the upper glacier, snow slopes lead to the ridge and the peak is a bit beyond that." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Trevor and Barbara Chinn, Noel Read (up snow slopes from the Callery Valley), December 1962" } ], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/%C5%8Dhau-landsborough/main-divide/mt-holdsworth": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/%C5%8Dhau-landsborough/main-divide/mt-holdsworth", "name": "Mt Holdsworth", "altitude": "2219m", "access": null, "description": null, "latlng": [ "-44.0146", "169.5908" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/%C5%8Dhau-landsborough/main-divide/mt-holdsworth/hunter-valley", "name": "From the Hunter Valley", "grade": "2-", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "2-", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": null } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": "Climbed from the Hunter Forks via the Melville Glacier.", "ascent": "Peter Child, George Goodyear, January 1959" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/%C5%8Dhau-landsborough/main-divide/mt-holdsworth/north-ridge", "name": "North Ridge", "grade": null, "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": "From Wilson Pass, traversing Mt Greenfield.", "ascent": "M R Fitchett, Graham Riley, J D Willis, 13 Februray 1934" } ], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/%C5%8Dhau-landsborough/main-divide/mt-arthur": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/%C5%8Dhau-landsborough/main-divide/mt-arthur", "name": "Mt Arthur", "altitude": "2219m", "access": null, "description": null, "latlng": [ "-43.8", "169.9338" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/%C5%8Dhau-landsborough/main-divide/mt-arthur/richardson-glacier", "name": "From Richardson Glacier", "grade": "1", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "1", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": null } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": "An easy scramble along the divide from Mockery Col.", "ascent": "B.N.Challis, Scott Gilkison, ErniePresland, February 1935" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/%C5%8Dhau-landsborough/main-divide/mt-arthur/charity-col", "name": "Charity Col", "grade": "2", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "2", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": null } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": "Named by Scott Gilkison, ErniePresland and B.N. Challis who in 1935 spent a\nnight on top finding it 'as cold as Charity.' The name was also consistent\nwith finding an easy descent to the west in contrast to their steep ascent\nfrom the east above the Charity Glacier. This route provides rapid access to\nthe upper Landsborough region from the Hopkins Valley.", "ascent": "B.N.Challis, Scott Gilkison, ErniePresland, February 1935" } ], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/nelson-lakes/spenser-mountains/gloriana-pk": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/nelson-lakes/spenser-mountains/gloriana-pk", "name": "Gloriana Pk", "altitude": "2218m", "access": null, "description": "An imposing peak (and a character in Spenser\u2019s poem, referring to Elizabeth I).", "latlng": [ "-42.26657536", "172.48766899" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/nelson-lakes/spenser-mountains/gloriana-pk/camera-gully-route", "name": "Camera Gully Route", "grade": "1", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": "1", "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "From the Ada River ascend Camera Gully, bypassing a waterfall on the true left, to a tarn at its head. A longer but interesting alternative is to use Ada Pass route to gain the south ridge, and follow it (or traverse eastern basins) into a basin south-west of the tarn. Climb northeast from the tarn to the col of Ada Pass route. Climb the step on the South West Ridge direct." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": null }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/nelson-lakes/spenser-mountains/gloriana-pk/ada-pass-route", "name": "Ada Pass Route", "grade": "1", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": "1", "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "Directly opposite Ada Pass Hut climb through easy bush into a tussock basin. Continue up, passing a series of tarns, to a col at its head, just east of peak 2087m. Sidle scree or snow slopes eastwards and climb to a col at the bottom of a step on the South West Ridge. Climb the step direct; easier ground above leads to the summit. A longer but easier alternative is to continue traversing easy slopes north-east of Gloriana, and gain a spur to the north-east." } ], "quality": 1, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": null }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/nelson-lakes/spenser-mountains/gloriana-pk/matakitaki-routes", "name": "Matakitaki Routes", "grade": "1", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": "1", "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "From the West Branch, a basin west of Faerie Queene allows access to the summit ridge, and a basin west of Gloriana leads to Camera Gully & Ada Pass routes." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": null } ], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aspiring/forbes-mountains/pt-2218": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aspiring/forbes-mountains/pt-2218", "name": "Pt 2218", "altitude": "2218m", "access": null, "description": null, "latlng": [ "-44.57607", "168.395696" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aspiring/forbes-mountains/pt-2218/standard-route", "name": "Standard Route", "grade": "I,1", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": "I", "mtcook": "1", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "This unnamed peak has been reached from the West Hunter by following up a small glacial basin and crossing snowfields." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": null } ], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aspiring/barrier-range/watkins": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aspiring/barrier-range/watkins", "name": "Watkins", "altitude": "2218m", "access": null, "description": "tba", "latlng": [ "-44.492037", "168.358909" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aspiring/barrier-range/watkins/stefansson-peak", "name": "From Stefansson Peak", "grade": "II,1", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": "II", "mtcook": "1", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "From Stefansson Peak or via the Derivation neve, the latter being reached from Joe River or Desperation Pass. Best access from Dart via Glacier Col, Forgotten River via Possibility Col, or Dart via Seal Col route. All better than Joe by any route." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": null } ], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/westland/john-pascoe-ridge/guardian-pk": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/westland/john-pascoe-ridge/guardian-pk", "name": "Guardian Pk", "altitude": "2218m", "access": null, "description": "Guardian Peak has been climbed from about every ridge, angle and slope over the past 70 years.", "latlng": [ "-43.319308", "170.67956" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/westland/john-pascoe-ridge/guardian-pk/north", "name": "From the North", "grade": "2", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": "0m", "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "2", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "" } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": "0", "natural_pro": false, "description": "Originally climbed utilising a snowslope to the north-east.", "ascent": "John Pascoe, A F Pearson, H A McDowall, H M Sweeney, 30 December 1935" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/westland/john-pascoe-ridge/guardian-pk/south-face", "name": "South Face", "grade": "1+", "topo_ref": "SF", "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "1+", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "Directly up snowslopes from the Garden of Eden. Schrunds can be problematic at times." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": null } ], "places": [], "image": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/wide/public/image/P208_2.png?itok=sYM-YhxH", "images": [ { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/wide/public/image/P208_2.png?itok=sYM-YhxH", "height": "589", "width": "900" } ] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aspiring/snowdrift-range/mt-amundsen": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aspiring/snowdrift-range/mt-amundsen", "name": "Mt Amundsen", "altitude": "2217m", "access": null, "description": "tba", "latlng": [ "-44.47525", "168.50047" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aspiring/snowdrift-range/mt-amundsen/boys-col", "name": "From Boys Col", "grade": null, "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "From Key Dome directly or from Mt Tiber" } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": null } ], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/canterbury/armoury-range/the-sentinel": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/canterbury/armoury-range/the-sentinel", "name": "The Sentinel", "altitude": "2217m", "access": null, "description": "The Sentinel was first climbed from the Clyde River by Allan Cookson and Jack Pattle in November\n1946. There are many options to the top, the most common being the North West Ridge.", "latlng": [ "-43.374173", "170.808992" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/canterbury/armoury-range/the-sentinel/north-west-ridge", "name": "North West Ridge", "grade": "1+", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "1+", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "Head up the side creek draining the glacier on the south side of The Sentinel. After about 1 km,\r\nfollow a broad scree slope north-east to join the end of the North West Ridge, and follow this\r\nto the summit." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": null }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/canterbury/armoury-range/the-sentinel/sinclair-river", "name": "From Sinclair River", "grade": null, "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "The third ascent of The Sentinel was part of a traverse from the Sinclair River to McCoy Stream." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Russell Pearce, Ian Shaw, March 1964" } ], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/nelson-lakes/st-arnaud-range/mt-paske": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/nelson-lakes/st-arnaud-range/mt-paske", "name": "Mt Paske", "altitude": "2216m", "access": "Rainbow River (http://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/nelson-lakes/st-arnaud-range/rainbow-river)\nPaske Creek (http://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/nelson-lakes/st-arnaud-range/paske-creek-upper-rainbow-river-and-begley-creek)", "description": "An attractive peak visible from near the gorge in the Rainbow.\nSlightly East of St Arnaud Ra.", "latlng": [ "-42.0911", "172.7417" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/nelson-lakes/st-arnaud-range/mt-paske/north-ridge", "name": "North Ridge", "grade": "1", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": "1", "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "Follow the south branch of the Rainbow River to a good campsite at 1470m, near a small waterfall on the true right. Scramble up dry watercourses, steep carpetgrass and easy rock to the range north of Paske. The final ridge is interesting." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": null }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/nelson-lakes/st-arnaud-range/mt-paske/west-face", "name": "West Face", "grade": "1", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": "0m", "pitches": [ { "alpine": "1", "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "From the south branch of the Rainbow River, climb scree basins and chutes to the ridge south of the summit." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": "0", "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": null }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/nelson-lakes/st-arnaud-range/mt-paske/south-east-ridge", "name": "South East Ridge", "grade": "1", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": "1", "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "From Paske Hut cross the creek and follow it upstream, then angle upwards through open forest into a tussock basin above a waterfall. Either climb open slopes on the south face to the summit pyramid or, from an obvious saddle, climb the interesting south-east ar\u00eate." } ], "quality": 1, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": null } ], "places": [], "image": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/wide/public/image/1-PB130127.JPG?itok=JD89eFRu", "images": [ { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/wide/public/image/1-PB130127.JPG?itok=JD89eFRu", "height": "675", "width": "900" } ] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/canterbury-westland-alps/cloudy-peak-range/helmet-pk": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/canterbury-westland-alps/cloudy-peak-range/helmet-pk", "name": "Helmet Pk", "altitude": "2215m", "access": null, "description": "tba", "latlng": [ "-43.373674", "170.702562" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/canterbury/cloudy-peak-range/helmet-pk/south-ridge", "name": "South Ridge", "grade": "1", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "1", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "After slogging up from Veil Stream, the south ridge provides an easy climb to the summit." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Pat Timings, Colin Timings, December 1952" } ], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/nelson-lakes-kaikc58dura/seaward-kaikoura-range/uwerau": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/nelson-lakes-kaikc58dura/seaward-kaikoura-range/uwerau", "name": "Uwerau", "altitude": "2213m", "access": null, "description": "Reputedly first climbed in March 1929 by Ted Brown, a musterer, who did a bold traverse in a single day from the Clarence Valley, over Manakau, Uwerau and Mt Fyffe to attend a party in Kaik\u014dura. Legend has it he returned via the same route the following day to pick up his dog from high on the slopes of Manakau, where it had refused to go any further.", "latlng": [ "-42.253", "173.6278" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/nelson-lakes-kaik%C5%8Dura/seaward-kaik%C5%8Dura-range/uwerau/middle-spur-route", "name": "Middle Spur Route", "grade": "2+,II", "topo_ref": "1", "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": "2+", "commitment": "II", "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "" } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": "The long ridge at the junction of Kowhai River and Kowhai Saddle Stream (known locally as Middle Spur) is initially easy scrub and tussock, later becoming a mix of scree, broken rock and gendarmes. It is possible to gain the spur from Kowhai Saddle, but steep broken rock must be crossed.", "ascent": null }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/nelson-lakes-kaik%C5%8Dura/seaward-kaik%C5%8Dura-range/uwerau/kowhai-river-route", "name": "Kowhai River Route", "grade": "1+,II", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": "1+", "commitment": "II", "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "Access via KOWAI RIVER" } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": "Reach the upper Kowhai River by climbing the South Ridge of Mt Saunders to the razorback. Sidle this, and continue to sidle animal tracks through scree and tussock above the river, then descend past ribbonwood to a major stream off the south-west slopes of Mt Saunders. Cross the stream and climb to a prominent ribbonwood flat (O31 593 820 / BT27 493 203), which descends to the river above a 10m waterfall. Cross the river, climb up to a tussock and scrub terrace, and follow this for about 400m till a descent into the open upper valley is possible. Scree can be climbed from the headwaters to a saddle at 2140m on the Uwerau to Manakau ridge. Fair scrambling, occasionally steep, leads to either peak. Considerably longer route than the usual routes.", "ascent": null }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/nelson-lakes-kaik%C5%8Dura/seaward-kaik%C5%8Dura-range/uwerau/south-west-face", "name": "South West Face", "grade": "3,II", "topo_ref": "2", "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": "3", "commitment": "II", "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "" } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": "This route has been climbed in winter, but it is necessary to avoid gorges and waterfalls in the Hapuku River headwaters by a high level traverse from the normal Hapuku Route.", "ascent": "Clayton Garbes, Peter Dickson, 1998" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/nelson-lakes-kaik%C5%8Dura/seaward-kaik%C5%8Dura-range/uwerau/hapuku-route", "name": "Hapuku Route", "grade": "1+,I", "topo_ref": "3", "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": "1+", "commitment": "I", "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "Via HAPUKU RIVRER" } ], "quality": 1, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": "From Hapuku Hut cross the Hapuku River and follow the track upriver to a small creek, just before the track enters the riverbed (O31 625 813 / BT27 525 196). Follow the creek up till it starts to open out and climb onto a tussock spur on the true right, which leads through easy scrub to scree and to the summit. Take care when descending Uwerau to avoid the spurs further eastwards, which have a belt of thick subalpine scrub.", "ascent": null } ], "places": [], "image": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/wide/public/image/Mt%20Uwerau..jpg?itok=W995mniw", "images": [ { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/wide/public/image/Mt%20Uwerau..jpg?itok=W995mniw", "height": "504", "width": "900" } ] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/arthurs-pass/main-divide/mt-rolleston-low-pk": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/arthurs-pass/main-divide/mt-rolleston-low-pk", "name": "Mt Rolleston Low Pk", "altitude": "2212m", "access": null, "description": null, "latlng": [ "-42.91441496", "171.5174818" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/arthurs-pass/main-divide/mt-rolleston-low-pk/crow-glacier", "name": "From Crow Glacier", "grade": "2", "topo_ref": "1", "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": "2", "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "From the northeastern reaches of the Crow neve. It may be ascended on either its East or West Ridges. The crux in this climb is the glacial ascent from the Crow Valley. Beware of hidden crevasses." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": null }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/arthurs-pass/main-divide/mt-rolleston-low-pk/rome-ridge", "name": "Rome Ridge", "grade": "2+,II", "topo_ref": "7.17", "image": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/2024-01/51347155491_e8a6c07714_c.jpg?itok=AUUExUGF", "images": [ { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/2024-01/51347155491_e8a6c07714_c.jpg?itok=AUUExUGF", "height": "217", "width": "325" }, { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/2024-01/Rome%20Ridge.jpg?itok=pS4g6M02", "height": "243", "width": "325" } ], "length": "1400m", "pitches": [ { "alpine": "2+", "commitment": "II", "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": "1400m", "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": null } ], "quality": 3, "bolts": "0", "natural_pro": false, "description": "Mount Rolleston is significant both due to its profile, its ease of access and its varied climbing opportunities. It is one of the most sought after mountain summits in Arthur\u2019s Pass National Park. As top all-round New Zealand climber Kester Brown once explained: \u2018It\u2019s right there! People can see it as they drive past. And yet, once you are climbing Rolleston, it feels like you are miles from anywhere.\u2019\nThe closeness to a major roadway is certainly a factor in the mountain\u2019s popularity. It is not particularly aesthetic to look at, more a bulky massif than classical in shape. But a number of its features are themselves enticing both to view and to climb. In winter and spring especially, the elegant Rome Ridge route is a flowing snow fluting that draws the eye gently upwards to the summit of the Low Peak.\nMount Rolleston was named after William Rolleston, the superintendent of Canterbury Province during the 1860s and 1970s. The name was given by Arthur Dobson and, while not particularly inspiring, at least the mountain isn\u2019t named after some distant European gentry who never set foot in this country.\nArguably, Rome Ridge is the classic route of the park. Climbable in a long day car-to-car, and best when plastered in snow and ice, the ridge is an alluring line with a defined crux that still manages to turn around those who are not quite prepared or skilled enough. The climb entails just about every aspect of the typical Kiwi mountain experience, with a pleasant bush approach, exposed ridge climbing, some terrible rock (in late summer and autumn) and then a beautiful valley descent.\nThe ridge is usually and most easily approached by the Coral Track, 300 metres north of the McGraths Creek bridge. It takes about an hour to gain the tree line. Alternately, the ridge can be reached from the upper Bealey Valley, by way of an unappealing scree slog adjacent the lower Bealey bluffs. Access is also possible from the Crow Valley: Typically the Avalanche Peak tramping route is used to gain access to the ridge and East Crow Glacier by sidling the final gendarmes on the eastern slopes. In avalanche free conditions, it is possible to gain East Crow Glacier directly by climbing out of the Crow Valley head, utilising the narrow gut on the true left.\nOn the Coral track route above the tree line the lower ridge is easily climbed, though three prominent buttresses can be of some concern in soft or loose snow conditions. The first of these buttresses is climbed on its south-eastern flank (climber\u2019s left) via gullies and rock steps. The second buttress is usually climbed via a wide scree/snow slope just off the ridge on climber\u2019s right\u2014this gully can be extremely avalanche prone in late winter/spring. An alternative is to drop down south and sidle under the ridge to join a col above East Crow Glacier, though avalanche and soft snow conditions can make this hazardous.\nThe last buttress on the ridge (Sharks Tooth) presents a steep down-climb into the notch known as the \u2018Gap\u2019, it can be avoided by dropping down the Avalanche Peak joining ridge southwards, then sidling across the East Crow Glacier to the Gap. In late summer a large bergschrund can cut access across the glacier to the Gap.\nDuring summer, the Gap has a chockstone feature (the keyhole) that you can pass through onto the Bealey valley side. A steep, loose climb from here leads onto a very broken ridge, then up some loose gullies to gain the broader, more stable ridge above. In winter it may be possible to instead climb steep couloirs directly off the East Crow Glacier to gain the main ar\u00eate (50m).\nThe first few pitches of the main ridge beyond the Gap are steep and loose if not covered in snow, with some exposure towards Goldney Glacier. About two-thirds of the way up the main ar\u00eate is an area of stacked loose blocks that requires care in summer/autumn conditions. Once the Low Peak (2212m) is gained, access to the High Peak (2275m) is by continuing along the ridge on easier ground, via the Middle Peak. Middle Peak can be avoided by utilising Crow n\u00e9v\u00e9 if it is negotiable. Note that late season the route from Low Peak to High Peak can become considerably more challenging due to the receding glacier conditions.\nDescent should be made via the Otira Slide route. There can be a risk of avalanches here, especially in the afternoon as sun warms the north facing slope. Car to car, the trip generally takes a full day\u2014a head torch and spare batteries are advisable!\nType of climbing: Snow/Ice/Rock\nDuration: One Day\nSeason: Any time of year\nClosest hut: Arthur\u2019s Pass\nEquipment: Two ice axes, crampons, rope, two snow stakes, ice screws, small rock rack", "ascent": null }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/arthurs-pass/main-divide/mt-rolleston-low-pk/goldney-ridge", "name": "Goldney Ridge", "grade": "1", "topo_ref": "GR", "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": "1", "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "Begins at the top of Arthur\u2019s Pass (920m). Enter the Dobson Nature Walk opposite the memorial, taking the right-hand branch towards the Otira Valley. Where the track nears the scree chutes, bash through the scrub and follow the chutes through the bluffs to the wide open ridge above. The ridge suddenly narrows prior the first massive buttress. Sidle for about 150 metres onto the Bealey River \u00dfank then ascend the steep scree to regain the ridge. Easy travel takes you to the summit of the second buttress. The third can be reached or bypassed on the Otira Valley side, and can involve some steep rock pitches (beware of large cornices in winter). A craggy ridge leads to the head of the Otira Slide icefield. See (route 6.3) for a description beyond here. The Goldney Ridge route is seldom climbed in its entirety as climbers prefer the less time consuming Otira Slide route." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": null }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/arthurs-pass/main-divide/mt-rolleston-low-pk/otira-slide", "name": "Otira Slide", "grade": "1", "topo_ref": "OS", "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": "1", "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "3 The Otira Slide route to MT ROLLESTON (2275m) is the climbers preferred ascent route to join the Goldney Ridge, and is certainly the most used and quickest descent route. From the Otira Valley car-park follow the walking trail towards the head of the valley. After the foot-bridge the trail is less defined, and the entire area is avalanche prone in winter. It takes about 90 min to reach the base of the Otira Slide icefield. (It is unwise to ascend the slide in darkness because of the high avalanche and rockfall risk in this area. Arrive there at first light if anything!) Climb the ice\u00deeld on the true-right, aiming for the wide couloir at its head that joins the Goldney Ridge. Climb the ridge rock, or drop onto the head of the Goldney Glacier and regain the ridge. Move away from the ridge crest, instead opting to climb the steep shallow gully that leads directly to Low Peak (2212m). If in doubt aim for the large solitary orange rock jutting out of the face, Low Peak is directly behind it. (Grade. 1+) An alternative route from the Slide, is to climb directly onto the face between Low and Middle Peaks. An obvious steep gully (Hidden Couloir) joins the ridge between these summits. It is avalanche prone, and contains loose rock. It must be frozen! (Grade. 2-) Once Low Peak is gained and if the Crow neve is not too crevassed, head for the col past Middle Peak, gaining the ridge to High Peak from there. Otherwise climb over Middle Peak. Note : The Otira Slide may be descended in winter on downhill/telemark skis. You must be an extremely competent skier, and have good avalanche assessment skills." } ], "quality": 1, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "December, 1891 by G.E. Mannering, A.M. Ollivier and W.D. Wood utilising the Goldney Ridge." }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/arthurs-pass/main-divide/mt-rolleston-low-pk/bealy-face", "name": "Bealy Face", "grade": "2", "topo_ref": "A", "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": "2", "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "The head of the Bealey River Valley provides a hand-full of diverse/adverse routes onto Low Peak (2212m). All routes are accessed from the upper basin. Gain the Bealey Scree by climbing the tussock slopes true left of the first obvious ravine. Follow a small creek then a fault scarp that traverses under the Goldney Ridge buttress. Sidle out over scree or very steep rock to the base of the climbs. The first route commences on the true right at the base of the long, loose, tortuous gully (400m) that finds its way to the Gap on the Rome Ridge (route 6.1). The arete on its true left is also climbable (beware of avalanches). Further to the true left several routes pick their respective ways up buttressed rock faces for about 300m before intersecting the Goldney Glacier. From here, a multitude of routes may be selected which follow snow or rock ramps to Low Peak (the Goldney Ridge is also easily gained). The easiest route on the face (Chockstone Route) starts underneath a prominent spur joining the Goldney Ridge to the far true left. A narrow gully containing the jammed boulder is climbed, followed by a series of easy scree/snow ramps to join the Goldney Ridge where it merges with Low Peak." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": null }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/arthurs-pass/main-divide/mt-rolleston-low-pk/head-bealey-river", "name": "From the Head of the Bealey River", "grade": "1", "topo_ref": "B", "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": "1", "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "Approaches from the head of the Bealey River are reached by climbing the slope on the true left of the Bealey River adjacent the start of the black ravine (follow a creek initially). Climb towards, and traverse the fault scarp that sidles west under the Goldney Ridge buttress to meet the huge scree/snow slope. Ascend the couloir that joins the Goldney Ridge between Low Peak and the first ridge buttress (prominent low point). The climb to Low Peak (2212m) is relatively easy going on rock or snow from the ridge." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": null }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/arthurs-pass/main-divide/mt-rolleston-low-pk/otira-slide-ski-touring", "name": "OTIRA SLIDE, Ski Touring.", "grade": null, "topo_ref": null, "image": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/2024-01/51547106328_81be971b40_c.jpg?itok=Fgm3nLT1", "images": [ { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/2024-01/51547106328_81be971b40_c.jpg?itok=Fgm3nLT1", "height": "217", "width": "325" } ], "length": "0m", "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "Map K33\r\nAfter good snowfalls it is possible to skin up the Otira Valley (from the foot bridge at least) to the base of the Otira Slide, the large snow slope that descends from the summit of Low Peak on Mount Rolleston. 90 minutes to 2 hours travel time to the base of the slide. It is important to assess the avalanche potential of this route. Most climbers will be ascending on foot for the steeper section above here. On descent, stay away from the Goldney Ridge (true right) side as the cornice here can be dangerous." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": "0", "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": null } ], "places": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/arthurs-pass/main-divide/mt-rolleston-low-pk/crow-face", "name": "Crow Face", "altitude": null, "access": null, "description": "The Crow Face rises from the East Crow Glacier to the Low Peak of Mt Rolleston. Most of the routes on the face utilise narrow couloirs, aretes and shelves, and conditions on each vary greatly depending on the season. During winter cornices form on the Rome Ridge over the East Crow, with loose snow avalanches causing some concern.", "latlng": null, "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/arthurs-pass/main-divide/mt-rolleston-low-pk/crow-face/left-rib", "name": "Left Rib", "grade": "2", "topo_ref": "1", "image": null, "images": [], "length": "320m", "pitches": [ { "alpine": "2", "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": "320m", "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "Can have a difficult start due to bergschrunds and lack of snow ramps. Move left up the ramp to a large gully (sometimes snow filled), then gain the rocky arete joining the South West Ridge of the Low Peak." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": null }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/arthurs-pass/main-divide/mt-rolleston-low-pk/crow-face/central-left", "name": "Central-left", "grade": "3-", "topo_ref": null, "image": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/route/Route.jpg?itok=LLfzt9wM", "images": [ { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/route/Route.jpg?itok=LLfzt9wM", "height": "203", "width": "325" } ], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "3-", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "Sustained neve ice up to join central direct 100m from the top" } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "John Harris, July 2015." }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/arthurs-pass/main-divide/mt-rolleston-low-pk/crow-face/central-direct", "name": "Central Direct", "grade": "2", "topo_ref": "2", "image": null, "images": [], "length": "400m", "pitches": [ { "alpine": "2", "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": "400m", "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "Commences in the same place as Left Rib route, with all the same difficulties. Follow the obvious gully most of the way to the summit; a split near the top allows two different finishes. Rockfall can be a hazard, as is rotten rock top and bottom" } ], "quality": 1, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": null }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/arthurs-pass/main-divide/mt-rolleston-low-pk/crow-face/right-couloir", "name": "Right Couloir", "grade": "2", "topo_ref": "3", "image": null, "images": [], "length": "250m", "pitches": [ { "alpine": "2", "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": "250m", "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "A large bergschrund may cause a desperate move at the bottom on a somewhat smooth slab. Venture up the rib into gully that turns to a narrow steep couloir at the top. Follow Rome Ridge to its summit. Some avalanche danger!" } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": null }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/arthurs-pass/main-divide/mt-rolleston-low-pk/crow-face/right-gully", "name": "Right Gully", "grade": "2", "topo_ref": "4", "image": null, "images": [], "length": "320m", "pitches": [ { "alpine": "2", "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": "320m", "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "The line is in an obvious runnel with a difficult slab start (dependent on the height of the snow ramp). There can be loose rock in the top half of gully; snow or ice fill certainly assists. Join Rome Ridge to the summit." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": null } ], "places": [], "image": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/wide/public/image/AP001.jpg?itok=4tbqwOU2", "images": [ { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/wide/public/image/AP001.jpg?itok=4tbqwOU2", "height": "442", "width": "709" } ] } ], "image": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/wide/public/2024-01/51347155491_e8a6c07714_c.jpg?itok=1cJbwFpR", "images": [ { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/wide/public/2024-01/51347155491_e8a6c07714_c.jpg?itok=1cJbwFpR", "height": "533", "width": "799" }, { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/2024-01/Rome%20Ridge.jpg?itok=pS4g6M02", "height": "243", "width": "325" }, { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/image/AP016.jpg?itok=jeA4WWpz", "height": "212", "width": "325" }, { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/2024-01/Screenshot%202024-01-17%20at%203.03.10%20PM.jpg?itok=d7lh1MJW", "height": "218", "width": "325" } ] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/2211": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/2211", "name": "Pt 2211", "altitude": "2211m", "access": null, "description": "Rolleston Range", "latlng": [ "-43.1480529", "171.2035949" ], "routes": [], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aspiring/harris-mountains/craigroyston-pk": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aspiring/harris-mountains/craigroyston-pk", "name": "Craigroyston Pk", "altitude": "2211m", "access": null, "description": null, "latlng": [ "-44.53837034", "168.76045613" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aspiring/harris-mountains/craigroyston-pk/north-west-ridge", "name": "North West Ridge", "grade": "1,I", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": "1", "commitment": "I", "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": null } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": "Pick a route up through the bluffs between Raspberry and Big Creeks, to gain the easy leading ridge. 200 to 300 metres below the summit a steep gut is crossed to give access to a better ridge on the south west side, which is then followed to the summit. The final 50m or so are on relatively exposed slabs. The climb to the summit takes about six hours from Raspberry Flat.", "ascent": "Paul Powell, Geoff Baylis, Len Kitson, December 1953" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aspiring/harris-mountains/craigroyston-pk/south-face", "name": "South Face", "grade": "1,I", "topo_ref": "1", "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": "1", "commitment": "I", "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": null } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": "Start up the tussock and bracken slopes directly behind Raspberry Hut. After about one hour the ridge becomes well defined and eventually leads to a col (1750m) on the Shotover-Matukituki divide. From this col follow a deer trail south for several hundred metres, until the south ridge is crossed and a prominent snowfield on the South Face is reached. The snowfield is then climbed to the summit. This route would take about six to seven hours from Raspberry Flat.", "ascent": "Peter Child, Don Morrison, Chris Matthews, February 1969" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aspiring/harris-mountains/craigroyston-pk/north-east-ridge", "name": "North East Ridge", "grade": "3+,III", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": "3+", "commitment": "III", "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": null } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": "The North East Ridge is reached from the col at the head of Raspberry Creek and consists of a steep climb on shattered rock, with some delicate and unprotected moves, as only this type of climbing can deliver, necessary near the top.", "ascent": "Bill Duffy, Chas Tanner, March 1975" } ], "places": [], "image": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/wide/public/image/Copy%20%282%29%20of%20LowerValley_opt.jpeg?itok=tsCthhwg", "images": [ { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/wide/public/image/Copy%20%282%29%20of%20LowerValley_opt.jpeg?itok=tsCthhwg", "height": "236", "width": "447" } ] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/nelson-lakes/mahanga-range/pt-2210": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/nelson-lakes/mahanga-range/pt-2210", "name": "Pt 2210", "altitude": "2210m", "access": null, "description": "Mahanga Range", "latlng": [ "-42.07682091", "172.64232483" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/nelson-lakes/mahanga-range/pt-2210/lake-constance-route", "name": "Lake Constance Route", "grade": "1", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": "1", "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "From the moraine wall damming Lake Constance a distinctive shelf angles from scree to the crest of the range south of the peak. A long, interesting climb follows the south ridge to the summit." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": null } ], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/canterbury-westland-alps/main-divide/malthus-pk": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/canterbury-westland-alps/main-divide/malthus-pk", "name": "Malthus Pk", "altitude": "2210m", "access": null, "description": null, "latlng": [ "-43.43266543", "170.5878067" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/canterbury-westland-alps/main-divide/malthus-pk/north-west-ridge", "name": "North West Ridge", "grade": "1", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "1", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "From Stewart Saddle snow slopes lead to the Main Divide ridge of the peak. The rock ridge can be climbed with a couple of gendarmes to turn on the Godley side, but it is easier to reach the Divide just west of the peak." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "JS Shanks, A Carty, HF Smith, LJ Dumbleton, 25th Dec 1934." }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/canterbury-westland-alps/main-divide/malthus-pk/unnamed", "name": "Unnamed", "grade": "1", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "1", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "Climb to the plateau south-west of the peak by any number of routes from the Godley Glacier. From the plateau join the Main Divide or use the rock face to the south." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "T A Fletcher, Will Kennedy, A Sutton-Turner, Jack Lippe, Dec 1920" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/canterbury-westland-alps/main-divide/malthus-pk/south-rib", "name": "South Rib", "grade": null, "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "From the Godley Glacier climb the rock and snow rib which leads onto the peak." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Gary Ball, P Gill, W Hewson, D Henson, P Bennett, Mike Andrews, Dec 1972" } ], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/otago/richardson-mountains/sentinel": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/otago/richardson-mountains/sentinel", "name": "Sentinel", "altitude": "2210m", "access": null, "description": "tba", "latlng": [ "-44.879331", "168.492636" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/otago/richardson-mountains/sentinel/standard-route", "name": "Standard Route", "grade": "17,I,2", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": "I", "mtcook": "2", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": "17", "description": "This peak is on the ridge between Stone Peak and Mt Larkins, and can be climbed in a day from the Bonnie Jean Creek via Larkins Slip Hut. The route is five pitches with a crux of 17, finishing in a pinnacle. Approval for access via the Mt Judah Rd (as at 2005) must be obtained from Wyuna Station (Manager, A. Wallace. Ph. 03 442 6046)" } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "R. Gardiner, D. Bolger, C. Prudden 2005." } ], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aspiring/main-divide/mt-giles": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aspiring/main-divide/mt-giles", "name": "Mt Giles", "altitude": "2209m", "access": null, "description": null, "latlng": [ "-43.9643", "169.6383" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/%C5%8Dhau-landsborough/main-divide/mt-giles/south-ridge", "name": "South Ridge", "grade": "2", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "2", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": null } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": "From the Hunter Valley East Branch climb the tussock, select a route through\nthe crevassed Smyth Glacier to reach the top.", "ascent": "John Chivers, Caroline Cotton, Rob Mitchell, Euan Warburton, Laurie White, January 1962" } ], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/canterbury-westland-alps/adams-range/mt-adams": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/canterbury-westland-alps/adams-range/mt-adams", "name": "Mt Adams", "altitude": "2208m", "access": null, "description": "Mt Adams has been climbed from the Seige Glacier via the ridge at the head, but the peak does not appear to have been directly approached from either the Seige or Escape glaciers. There is no record of the SE ridge being climbed.\nW Wilson, surveyor, record in survey office.", "latlng": [ "-43.2677507", "170.5273158" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/westland/adams-range/mt-adams/dry-creek-little-man-river", "name": "From Dry Creek (Little Man River).", "grade": "1+", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "1+", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "From SH6 follow the stopbank road on the true right of Little Man River (Dry Creek) for about 15mins, moving over to the gravel riverbed before there is too much scrub to bash through. Follow the riverbed up, watching for cairned shortcuts. A couple of crossings are necessary to avoid a bluff on the true right just above the first major side creek. Fortunately, a small gravel lead on the true left from about I34 040706 gives good travel upvalley for several hundred metres past it. Cross back and continue, sometimes in side channels, on the true right to major forks at the second side creek, 2.5 hours from the road, I35 049697. Camping is possible here. At these forks, the main (true left) stream heads into a gorge. Less than 100m up the open bed of the true right branch, pick up cairns and markers on the true left where the track up the spur begins. DoC has just recut this track (2009). Carry water from here, as there is no reliable water source higher up. Follow this to the tops, where there is possible to camp. Occasionally there is a smidgeon of water in a tiny tarn near the bushline, 3 hours from the forks. Regard the rest of the ridge as waterless except for higher snow patches. Tussock leads up the spur to gravel or snow and rock outcrops on the range at pt 2194m. From here either traverse the ridge, or more usually, follow a mix of crevassed snowslopes and rock scrambling to gain the summit of the higher outlier." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": null } ], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/canterbury-westland-alps/main-divide/quoin-pk": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/canterbury-westland-alps/main-divide/quoin-pk", "name": "Quoin Pk", "altitude": "2208m", "access": null, "description": null, "latlng": [ "-43.34322", "170.716124" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/canterbury-westland-alps/main-divide/quoin-pk/main-divide-ridges", "name": "Main Divide Ridges", "grade": "1", "topo_ref": "MD", "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "1", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "A bump on the Divide, which generally presents no problems when climbed from Perth Col." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Traversed by R E (Gran) Clark, Bryan Barrer, Arthur Pearson, Neville Barker, January 1934" } ], "places": [], "image": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/wide/public/image/Quoin%20Pk.png?itok=sM1e-wv3", "images": [ { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/wide/public/image/Quoin%20Pk.png?itok=sM1e-wv3", "height": "603", "width": "900" } ] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/otago/barrier-range/mt-stafford": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/otago/barrier-range/mt-stafford", "name": "Mt Stafford", "altitude": "2208m", "access": null, "description": "TBA", "latlng": [ "-44.23405694028", "169.6846935194" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/otago/barrier-range/mt-stafford/hodgkinson-creek", "name": "From the Hodgkinson Creek", "grade": "1", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "1", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": null } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": "Easy approaches up scree slopes in summer.", "ascent": "First ascent unknown" } ], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/%C5%8Dhau-landsborough/huxley-range/pt-2208": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/%C5%8Dhau-landsborough/huxley-range/pt-2208", "name": "Pt 2208", "altitude": "2208m", "access": null, "description": null, "latlng": [ "-43.9803", "169.6977" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/%C5%8Dhau-landsborough/huxley-range/pt-2208/east-face", "name": "East Face", "grade": "2", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "2", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": null } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": "Travel up the obvious ridge to the west of Brodrick Hut to reach the ridge\nnorth of the summit. Scramble along the ridge to the top.", "ascent": "Jack Christie, Bill McNaught December 1946" } ], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/c58dhau-landsborough/barrier-range/steeple-pk": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/c58dhau-landsborough/barrier-range/steeple-pk", "name": "Steeple Pk", "altitude": "2207m", "access": "Access to the East face climbs is via either the South Temple valley or North Temple valley and Gun Sight Pass. Under the East face there is a good bivy / camp site on a shelf at the 1450m contour on the true left of the valley with water a few minutes walk away.\nAlternatively access via North Temple Stream and a col between Bruce and Steeple peaks is much faster. See Bruce Peak for details. https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/otago/barrier-range/bruce-pk", "description": "(L to R) Love Me Love My Zimmerframe, Wandering Flob, Zoe and Weta Prowl.\nFrom the summit an easy decent is down the South ridge to the col between Steeple Peak and Point 2200, before following scree slopes back to camp.", "latlng": [ "-44.09365469", "169.76973776" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/otago/barrier-range/steeple-pk/north-face", "name": "North Face", "grade": "2+", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "2+", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": null } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": "From the mid North Temple Stream GR H38, 535752, approach the peak through\nthe beech forest, then ascend across the east face to reach the gully between\nSteeple Peak and Peak 2200m. Climb the rock (about grade 12) to the summit.\nEasier access is from the mid South Temple.", "ascent": "First ascent unknown" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/otago/barrier-range/steeple-pk/love-me-love-my-zimmerframe", "name": "Love me love my Zimmerframe", "grade": "3+", "topo_ref": "Red", "image": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/route/zimmer_0.jpg?itok=ofUxe5iU", "images": [ { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/route/zimmer_0.jpg?itok=ofUxe5iU", "height": "207", "width": "259" } ], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "3+", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": null } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": "Twelve pitches on northern outlier of Steeple Peak. Begin at the middle of\nthe slab to the right of small pointy knoll near the bottom. Straight up for\ntwo pitches through two awkward corner with not much gear, then rising\nleftwards traverse to avoid the overhangs till near the ledge at half height.\nFrom there easier scrambling, grade 12 ish and a small section of grade 14 at\nthe top. Connects with Zoe and Weta Prowl in upper part. Some pitons used for\nprotection. Twelve pitches with cruxes at grade 15.", "ascent": "Paul Hersey, Derek Chinn, January 2004" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/otago/barrier-range/steeple-pk/wandering-flob", "name": "Wandering Flob", "grade": null, "topo_ref": "Green", "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": "A six pitch route in February, to the right of Love me love my Zimmerframe.\ngrade 13-16, pitches varying from 15-60 m, has fair to good rock quality and\nprotection. Descent was via two 60m abseils. The climb was repeated the next\nday by Derek Billings and Dave Ryan.", "ascent": "Robert Hughes-Games and Flynn Battaerd February 2008" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/otago/barrier-range/steeple-pk/zoe-alpine", "name": "Zoe Alpine", "grade": "3+", "topo_ref": "Yellow", "image": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/route/zoe.jpg?itok=EW1xmLpF", "images": [ { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/route/zoe.jpg?itok=EW1xmLpF", "height": "207", "width": "259" } ], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "3+", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": null } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": "On north side of Steeple Peak outlier. Seven pitches left of Weta Prowl. Crux\n17, mostly 12-14 climbing on great red greywacke with good protection.", "ascent": "Paul Hersey, Mat Woods, November 2003, and February 2005" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/otago/barrier-range/steeple-pk/weta-prowl", "name": "Weta Prowl", "grade": "14,3+", "topo_ref": "Blue", "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "3+", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": "14", "description": null } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": "On the centre of the shorter right hand, west facing wall. From its low\npoint, scramble up and left for about 60m to a scree shelf. Climb the slab\nfor 6 or more pitches between the two rock flanges at up to grade 14. The\nlast pitch places you on a ridge where a short final pitch gets you over the\nfirst and most difficult of the ridges obstacles. The ridge is then followed\nfor about 150m as a difficult scramble to the summit. 300m height gain,\nplenty of protection on excellent rock.", "ascent": "Ross Cullen, Bill McLeod, April 2002" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/otago/barrier-range/steeple-pk/dry-bone", "name": "Dry As A Bone", "grade": "15", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": "15", "description": null } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": "To the right of Weta Prowl, finishing up a flake tucked up against the final steep buttress, to join Weta Prowl near the top.", "ascent": "Alan Hill, Hamish Reid, February 2006" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/otago/barrier-range/steeple-pk/south-ridge", "name": "South Ridge", "grade": "1+", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "1+", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": null } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": "From the col between Steeple Peak and Point 2200, follow the ridge as an easy\nscramble on fractured rock to the summit.", "ascent": "Unknown" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/otago/barrier-range/steeple-pk/weta-hotel", "name": "Weta Hotel", "grade": "15", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": "145m", "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": "50m", "bolts": null, "trad": true, "ewbank": "14", "description": "Up and right around the bulge. Scramble 10m up to the next pitch." }, { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": "45m", "bolts": null, "trad": true, "ewbank": "15", "description": "Climb center right of the slab." }, { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": "50m", "bolts": null, "trad": true, "ewbank": "14", "description": "Left hand side of the arete." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": true, "description": "Starting at the base of the west ridge of the Steeple pk outlier, Climb three pitches with ample belay ledges and descend the scree slope. The sunny aspect makes this a good option when other routes in the area are not in condition. Take care of some loose flakes.", "ascent": "Nick Hann, Ollie Hughes" } ], "places": [], "image": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/wide/public/image/steeple2.jpg?itok=qO-yNDpt", "images": [ { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/wide/public/image/steeple2.jpg?itok=qO-yNDpt", "height": "399", "width": "500" } ] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki/burnett-mountains/mt-little": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki/burnett-mountains/mt-little", "name": "Mt Little", "altitude": "2207m", "access": null, "description": "An easy ascent from the top of Gorilla Stream.\nFirst ascent unknown", "latlng": [ "-43.723895", "170.239925" ], "routes": [], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/nelson-lakes/spenser-mountains/mt-humboldt": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/nelson-lakes/spenser-mountains/mt-humboldt", "name": "Mt Humboldt", "altitude": "2206m", "access": null, "description": "Spenser Mts", "latlng": [ "-42.17638069", "172.6127243" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/nelson-lakes/spenser-mountains/mt-humboldt/caroline-creek-route", "name": "Caroline Creek Route", "grade": "2", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": "2", "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "Travel is reasonable on the true left initially. At a large scree gully, bypass impenetrable scrub in the upper creek via tussock slopes into scree. At the head of the creek, climb south-east to reach the ridge at 1995m, just below a large buttress. Cross onto the Enid Stream side and climb snow or scree to the summit ridge. The north summit of Humboldt (Pk 2186m) can be climbed via a prominent couloir direct from the head of Caroline Creek, but a narrow and broken ridge joins it to the higher summit." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": null }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/nelson-lakes/spenser-mountains/mt-humboldt/south-ridge", "name": "South Ridge", "grade": "3", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": "3", "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "From Enid Pass, a steep and loose ridge leads to the summit." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": null } ], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/darrans/darran-mountains/karetai-pk": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/darrans/darran-mountains/karetai-pk", "name": "Karetai Pk", "altitude": "2206m", "access": null, "description": "Karetai Peak is the centrepost of the Central Darrans, with three faces of magnificent orange stone rising above the Te Puoho Glacier, the Donne Valley, and Lake Turner.", "latlng": [ "-44.67226254", "168.0459722" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/darrans/darran-mountains/karetai-pk/south-ridge", "name": "South Ridge", "grade": "14,II", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": "200m", "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": "II", "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": "200m", "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": "14", "description": null } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": "Gain the ridge from the Te Puoho n\u00e9v\u00e9 via a 50 metre pitch on excellent rock. Scramble left into a gully leading between the summit and the highest gendarme on the Donne Face and under a huge chockstone.", "ascent": "Robin Pettit, Richard Price, Barry Scott, Doug Warren, 1972" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/fiordland/darran-mountains/karetai-pk/north-ridge", "name": "North Ridge", "grade": null, "topo_ref": "2", "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "The ridge is at first narrow and of good quality rock, but becomes more blocky high on the western side." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "David Lewis, Lindsay Stewart, November 1937" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/fiordland/darran-mountains/karetai-pk/west-ridge", "name": "West Ridge", "grade": "I", "topo_ref": "3", "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": "I", "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "A straightforward ridge starting from Patuki Col" } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "First Ascent unknown." } ], "places": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/darrans/darran-mountains/karetai-pk/east-face", "name": "East Face", "altitude": null, "access": null, "description": "This steep face rises directly from the Te Puoho Glacier and is known for its coarse clean diorite.\nDescent is usually via the West Ridge to Turner\u2019s Eyrie. The North Ridge can also be descended to Karetai Col.", "latlng": [ "-44.67182694", "168.04730415" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/fiordland/darran-mountains/karetai-pk/east-face/english-fearnley", "name": "English Fearnley", "grade": "17,II", "topo_ref": "1", "image": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/route/Karetai-E-Face-Fearnley.jpg?itok=_PH8UIhr", "images": [ { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/route/Karetai-E-Face-Fearnley.jpg?itok=_PH8UIhr", "height": "325", "width": "244" } ], "length": "250m", "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": "II", "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": "250m", "bolts": null, "trad": true, "ewbank": "17", "description": "The five-pitch corner and groove 80m right of the South Ridge. Good rock." } ], "quality": 1, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": true, "description": null, "ascent": "Merv English, Dave Fearnley, 1983" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/fiordland/darran-mountains/karetai-pk/east-face/more-drugs-more-threesomes", "name": "More Drugs More Threesomes", "grade": "21,II", "topo_ref": "2", "image": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/route/Karetai-E-Face-Threesomes.jpg?itok=SUfKxz72", "images": [ { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/route/Karetai-E-Face-Threesomes.jpg?itok=SUfKxz72", "height": "217", "width": "325" } ], "length": "250m", "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": "II", "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": "250m", "bolts": null, "trad": true, "ewbank": "21", "description": "Five pitches on the south-east aspect of the face, climbing just right of the roofs and up the big sheet of stone above." } ], "quality": 1, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": true, "description": null, "ascent": "James Spiers, Richard Turner, Dave Vass, February 2011" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/fiordland/darran-mountains/karetai-pk/east-face/hugs-not-drugs", "name": "Hugs not Drugs", "grade": "22,III", "topo_ref": "2a", "image": null, "images": [], "length": "290m", "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": "III", "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": "40m", "bolts": null, "trad": true, "ewbank": "20", "description": "Start at the best crossing point or schrund. Various cracks lead to easier angled terrain at 20m, approx. 10m left of Jones-Jones. Belay where wall steepens." }, { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": "60m", "bolts": null, "trad": true, "ewbank": "20", "description": "Straight up wall and cracks to easier angled grey slabs and belay in large L-R chimney." }, { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": "45m", "bolts": null, "trad": true, "ewbank": "22", "description": "Straight up deviously to easier ground moving slightly left." }, { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": "55m", "bolts": null, "trad": true, "ewbank": "22", "description": "Up rounded crack system moving L onto pillar. L from top of this and up steeply to technical slab on L. Up this and L again to diagonal break." }, { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": "45m", "bolts": null, "trad": true, "ewbank": "22", "description": "Straight up fantastic flake, scamper over roof, and straight up to easier ground." }, { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": "45m", "bolts": null, "trad": true, "ewbank": null, "description": "Straight up and R to roof, round this and up to ledge. Gratuitously up wall above just cos it\u2019s there to blocky belay 30m from summit." } ], "quality": 3, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": true, "description": "Superb climbing on continuously technical and steep wall. Starts just left of\nJones Jones at a vertical crack and goes more or less directly to the summit,\nkeeping left of easier ground. Line described is not necessarily the least\nline of resistance or necessarily accurate as climbed in complete shmoo with\n10-15 metres viz.", "ascent": "Rich Thomson, Rich Turner, 12 February 2016" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/fiordland/darran-mountains/karetai-pk/east-face/jones-jones", "name": "Jones Jones", "grade": null, "topo_ref": "3", "image": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/route/Karetai-E-Face-Jones.jpg?itok=7bGpJPx-", "images": [ { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/route/Karetai-E-Face-Jones.jpg?itok=7bGpJPx-", "height": "217", "width": "325" } ], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": true, "ewbank": null, "description": "Take the line of chimneys and gullies left of the central buttress." } ], "quality": 1, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": true, "description": null, "ascent": "Allan Jones, Murray Jones, 1974" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/fiordland/darran-mountains/karetai-pk/east-face/glasson-line", "name": "Glasson Line", "grade": "17,III", "topo_ref": "4", "image": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/route/CM-51--15-A5.jpg?itok=fOdQe2vH", "images": [ { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/route/CM-51--15-A5.jpg?itok=fOdQe2vH", "height": "225", "width": "325" } ], "length": "400m", "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": "III", "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": "400m", "bolts": null, "trad": true, "ewbank": "17", "description": "Eleven pitches up the middle of the face on sound rock. Climb left across a smooth slab into a chimney below a sickle-shaped crack. Climb the crack (crux) then follow a diagonal fault line right across the face for 2 pitches. Straighten again for 2 pitches until below a large band of overhangs, trending right to easier ground and the summit." } ], "quality": 2, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": true, "description": null, "ascent": "Ken Calder, Bruce Clark, Pete Glasson, Al Smith, March 1973" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/fiordland/darran-mountains/karetai-pk/east-face/studley-buttress", "name": "The Studley Buttress", "grade": "22,III", "topo_ref": "5", "image": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/route/Karetai-E-Face-Studley.jpg?itok=Vl873_0K", "images": [ { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/route/Karetai-E-Face-Studley.jpg?itok=Vl873_0K", "height": "217", "width": "325" } ], "length": "400m", "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": "III", "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": "400m", "bolts": null, "trad": true, "ewbank": "22", "description": "Nine pitches (roughly 14, 19, 17, 18, 19, 22, 16, 13, 12) directly up the central buttress on the face." } ], "quality": 3, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": true, "description": null, "ascent": "Dave Vass, Rich Turner, Rich Thomson, April 2007" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/fiordland/darran-mountains/karetai-pk/east-face/rising-high", "name": "Rising High", "grade": "20", "topo_ref": "5a", "image": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/route/Rising_High.jpg?itok=RlKkIsFp", "images": [ { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/route/Rising_High.jpg?itok=RlKkIsFp", "height": "325", "width": "217" } ], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": "20", "description": "8 pitches" } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Georg Pollinger, Anton Baumgartner, 06/03/2014" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/fiordland/darran-mountains/karetai-pk/east-face/subalpine-route", "name": "Subalpine Route", "grade": "20,III", "topo_ref": "6", "image": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/route/Karetai-E-Face-Subalpine.jpg?itok=Z6TsqrUu", "images": [ { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/route/Karetai-E-Face-Subalpine.jpg?itok=Z6TsqrUu", "height": "217", "width": "325" } ], "length": "350m", "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": "III", "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": "350m", "bolts": null, "trad": true, "ewbank": "20", "description": "Eight pitches of good rock climbing up the centre of the face. Good protection generally and belays though sometimes sparse or time consuming to arrange. Crux on pitch three." } ], "quality": 1, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": true, "description": null, "ascent": "Richard Thomson, Dave Vass, 2 March 2012" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/fiordland/darran-mountains/karetai-pk/east-face/tabula-rasa", "name": "Tabula Rasa", "grade": "22", "topo_ref": "6a", "image": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/route/Tabula_Rasa.jpg?itok=mfhcc53D", "images": [ { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/route/Tabula_Rasa.jpg?itok=mfhcc53D", "height": "325", "width": "244" } ], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": "22", "description": "7 pitches" } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Kyle Dempster, Jewell Lund, 18/03/15" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/fiordland/darran-mountains/karetai-pk/east-face/hyslop-scott", "name": "Hyslop Scott", "grade": null, "topo_ref": "7", "image": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/route/Karetai-E-Face-Hyslop.jpg?itok=4s2tlK04", "images": [ { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/route/Karetai-E-Face-Hyslop.jpg?itok=4s2tlK04", "height": "217", "width": "325" } ], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": true, "ewbank": null, "description": "A line near Karetai Col." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": true, "description": null, "ascent": "Ken Hyslop, Barry Scott, January 1976" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/fiordland/darran-mountains/karetai-pk/east-face/59", "name": "5.9+", "grade": "17", "topo_ref": null, "image": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/route/20180210_130129.jpg?itok=vkPtUEIR", "images": [ { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/route/20180210_130129.jpg?itok=vkPtUEIR", "height": "244", "width": "325" }, { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/route/20180208_163001.jpg?itok=zcpQqWpw", "height": "244", "width": "325" } ], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": true, "ewbank": "17", "description": null } ], "quality": 1, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": true, "description": "Four pitches of climbing on the northern side of the East Face. The chimney pitch involved hanging packs from harnesses and grunting and sliding and \u201cwould probably only get 5.8 in Yosemite\u201d according to Neil. Fun climb, well protected.", "ascent": "Kyle Walter, Neil Warrington, February 2018" } ], "places": [], "image": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/wide/public/image/Karetai-E-Face-routes_0.jpg?itok=E1GdzOpv", "images": [ { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/wide/public/image/Karetai-E-Face-routes_0.jpg?itok=E1GdzOpv", "height": "600", "width": "900" } ] }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/fiordland/darran-mountains/karetai-pk/statue-wall", "name": "Statue Wall", "altitude": null, "access": null, "description": "This 300 metre high wall runs between Te Wera and Karetai. Lindsays Ledges angle up the central part of the wall to Karetai Col.\nTo descend, traverse to the base of the South Ridge of Te Wera, or to Karetai Col and down Lindsays Ledges, or to the base of the step on the North Ridge of Karetai where ledges lead across the face towards the West Ridge and Turners Eyrie.", "latlng": [ "-44.66926328", "168.04567337" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/fiordland/darran-mountains/karetai-pk/statue-wall/kilroy-wuz-ere", "name": "Kilroy Wuz Ere", "grade": "21,II", "topo_ref": "1", "image": null, "images": [], "length": "250m", "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": "II", "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": "250m", "bolts": null, "trad": true, "ewbank": "21", "description": null } ], "quality": 1, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": true, "description": "Climb the right side of the second-from-left pinnacle, up clean corner (pitch 3, crux) and then the red wall above, crossing the diagonal fissures. Five pitches in total.", "ascent": "Rich Thomson, Rich Turner, Dave Vass, January 2015" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/fiordland/darran-mountains/karetai-pk/statue-wall/butt-cheek-booma-gutsa", "name": "Butt Cheek Booma Gutsa", "grade": "21,II", "topo_ref": "2", "image": null, "images": [], "length": "260m", "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": "II", "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": "60m", "bolts": null, "trad": true, "ewbank": "16", "description": "Into and through the white S-bend slab." }, { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": "45m", "bolts": null, "trad": true, "ewbank": "21", "description": "A palm-off gets you onto the steep wall. Move up and left to belay below and left of the corner system." }, { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": "50m", "bolts": null, "trad": true, "ewbank": "18", "description": "The diagonal corner crack with a couple of spectacular moves through the overhang." }, { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": "45m", "bolts": null, "trad": true, "ewbank": "18", "description": "Varied crack, corner and face climbing. Once above the corner crack, move left onto the buttress." }, { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": "60m", "bolts": null, "trad": true, "ewbank": "16", "description": "Either continue up the buttress or move left into the adjacent corner system." } ], "quality": 1, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": true, "description": "Climbs the middle of three corner crack lines between Kilroy and the large buttress.", "ascent": "Derek Cheng, Rich Thomson, Rich Turner, February 2022" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/fiordland/darran-mountains/karetai-pk/statue-wall/brothers-farms", "name": "Brothers in Farms", "grade": "22,II", "topo_ref": "3", "image": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/route/brothers.jpeg?itok=NOgtnCHT", "images": [ { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/route/brothers.jpeg?itok=NOgtnCHT", "height": "325", "width": "244" } ], "length": "325m", "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": "II", "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": "325m", "bolts": null, "trad": true, "ewbank": "22", "description": null } ], "quality": 3, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": true, "description": "Follow a corner system and overlaps direct to where two major diagonals cross at mid height on the face left of the big corner-roof system. Continue directly up, through some steep terrain but on massive holds.", "ascent": "James Spiers, Rich Turner, February 2015" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/fiordland/darran-mountains/karetai-pk/statue-wall/21", "name": "21+", "grade": "21,II", "topo_ref": "4", "image": null, "images": [], "length": "300m", "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": "II", "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": "60m", "bolts": null, "trad": true, "ewbank": "21", "description": "Up the main vegetated corner, deceptively steeply, to possible break R at 40m. Swing R and up rib to belay." }, { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": "40m", "bolts": null, "trad": true, "ewbank": "21", "description": "Straight up steep wall above to easier ground and big diagonal corner up left to belay." }, { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": "45m", "bolts": null, "trad": true, "ewbank": "21", "description": "Up and left steeply to black streak (obvious from ground). Up this to blocky belay." }, { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": "45m", "bolts": null, "trad": true, "ewbank": "21", "description": "Up deviantly to roof (gear in roof to R). Left to pull through roof on same black streak. Steeply up till angle eases, trending left to L-R grassy diagonal. Hanging belay in diagonal or up corner on left and belay left of top." }, { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": "60m", "bolts": null, "trad": true, "ewbank": null, "description": "Up the orange wall of dinner plates, to grey slab and up to belay." }, { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": "50m", "bolts": null, "trad": true, "ewbank": null, "description": "Diagonal R to middle of steep slab, up this to top for some fun (pitch could be avoided by easier scramble up ridge above belay)." } ], "quality": 2, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": true, "description": "Begin at the base of the massive corner and roof system, left of Lindsay's Ledges. Descent: ridge to Karetai Col. At the dubious-looking drop-off point, either solo down slabs on the Te Puoho side, or go to the very end of this buttress and down to a 40m rap.", "ascent": "Rich Thomson, Rich Turner, 10 February 2016" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/fiordland/darran-mountains/karetai-pk/statue-wall/ara-whero", "name": "Ara whero", "grade": "21", "topo_ref": null, "image": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/routes/1358EBB9-78C5-4055-84CF-E7B13560D511.jpeg?itok=Z5xXgYf5", "images": [ { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/routes/1358EBB9-78C5-4055-84CF-E7B13560D511.jpeg?itok=Z5xXgYf5", "height": "325", "width": "244" } ], "length": "300m", "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": "60m", "bolts": null, "trad": true, "ewbank": "18", "description": "Up and left across slab to red stripe. Up this then slightly right at compact face to find good gear. Then back left passing Grey dyke and bongo flakes to good belay standing on flakes." }, { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": "60m", "bolts": null, "trad": true, "ewbank": "21", "description": "Directly above belay and then through bulge to the right. Good gear then straight up and slightly left following the jugs and great gear. Trend right into red corner and then onto ledge for good belay." }, { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": "60m", "bolts": null, "trad": true, "ewbank": "20", "description": "Climb fun easy red rock tending right to red bulge. Arrange gear and launch up the overhang on great holds. Belay on spike." }, { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": "20m", "bolts": null, "trad": true, "ewbank": "21", "description": "A short pitch up second red bulge. Good wires protect the crux. Great holds the whole way." }, { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": "50m", "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": "19", "description": "Step left from belay and climb short red corner directly. After this angle eases but good quality rock for the rest of the pitch. Spike belay on big ledge." }, { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": "50m", "bolts": null, "trad": true, "ewbank": "21", "description": "Climb the corner crack and roof between the two pillars. Climb up crack trending right. Then straight up to left facing corner. Plug gear at the top of the corner and head way left on wild jug traverse. Mantle up and climb cracks to the ridge line. Exposed and awesome. Haul the bag if you can on this pitch." } ], "quality": 3, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": true, "description": "Follows a line of red rock 20m left of \u201cParallel Lines\u201d. Starting at the toe of the buttress. Single rack plus doubles in the finger sizes. Double ropes useful.", "ascent": "Bruce Dowrick, Llewellyn Murdoch, January 2022" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/fiordland/darran-mountains/karetai-pk/statue-wall/katabatic-gravity-well", "name": "Katabatic Gravity Well", "grade": "23,II", "topo_ref": "5", "image": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/route/Katabatic.jpg?itok=8OYvLzgR", "images": [ { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/route/Katabatic.jpg?itok=8OYvLzgR", "height": "325", "width": "215" } ], "length": "300m", "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": "II", "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": "300m", "bolts": null, "trad": true, "ewbank": "23", "description": "Another super route on this super wall." } ], "quality": 3, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": true, "description": null, "ascent": "Richard Turner, James Spiers, February 2015" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/fiordland/darran-mountains/karetai-pk/statue-wall/parallel-lines", "name": "Parallel Lines", "grade": "21,II", "topo_ref": "6", "image": null, "images": [], "length": "300m", "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": "II", "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": "50m", "bolts": null, "trad": true, "ewbank": "21", "description": "Start up the middle of the wall left of the big arching roofs. Belay just left of the smaller roof system." }, { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": "50m", "bolts": null, "trad": true, "ewbank": "18", "description": "Climb the black streak into a slight groove system and up to the ledge." }, { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": "50m", "bolts": null, "trad": true, "ewbank": "16", "description": "Break through the overhangs right of the belay on huge holds and continue up the ramp." }, { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": "50m", "bolts": null, "trad": true, "ewbank": "21", "description": "The stellar crack system just left of the big green roof." }, { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": "50m", "bolts": null, "trad": true, "ewbank": "16", "description": "Up easier terrain." }, { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": "50m", "bolts": null, "trad": true, "ewbank": "21", "description": "Save some skin for the fingery climbing on the final orange wall." } ], "quality": 2, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": true, "description": "A six-pitch climb. Start up the wall left of the big roofs and that finishes on the small peaklet just above Karetai Col.", "ascent": "Bruce Dowrick, Rich Thomson, Rich Turner, February 2010" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/fiordland/darran-mountains/karetai-pk/statue-wall/statue-bro", "name": "Statue Bro", "grade": "19,II", "topo_ref": "7", "image": null, "images": [], "length": "300m", "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": "II", "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": "300m", "bolts": null, "trad": true, "ewbank": "19", "description": "Six pitches. Follow the reddest rock, just right of the overhangs, up to the small notch in the ridge." } ], "quality": 3, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": true, "description": null, "ascent": "Dave Vass, Rich Turner, Rich Thomson, March 2006" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/fiordland/darran-mountains/karetai-pk/statue-wall/brown-spider", "name": "The Brown Spider", "grade": "19,II", "topo_ref": "8", "image": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/route/5d2-5847-edit.jpg?itok=qiFEuUOb", "images": [ { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/route/5d2-5847-edit.jpg?itok=qiFEuUOb", "height": "325", "width": "217" } ], "length": "300m", "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": "II", "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": "300m", "bolts": null, "trad": true, "ewbank": "19", "description": null } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": true, "description": "Begin about 80m to the right of Statue Bro? and link a set of distinct features, one of which is the system of cracks that gives the route its name. Finish at the next notch right of the Statue Bro? finish. Eight pitches, with adequate protection on excellent rock.", "ascent": "John McCallum, Alan Thomas, Mark Watson, February 2012" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/fiordland/darran-mountains/karetai-pk/statue-wall/good-craic", "name": "Good Craic", "grade": "19", "topo_ref": "5", "image": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/routes/good_craic.JPG?itok=9FatdKFr", "images": [ { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/routes/good_craic.JPG?itok=9FatdKFr", "height": "325", "width": "217" } ], "length": "350m", "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": "40m", "bolts": null, "trad": true, "ewbank": "16", "description": "Start on large ledge left of steep grey wall, and right of red rib. Up slabs, move left around small overhang to belay on grassy ledge" }, { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": "60m", "bolts": null, "trad": true, "ewbank": "14", "description": "Climb chimney/gully on left for 10m, then climb rightwards up low angle red rib to large ledge below next steep wall." }, { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": "30m", "bolts": null, "trad": true, "ewbank": "19", "description": "Superb steep splitter finger crack" }, { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": "60m", "bolts": null, "trad": true, "ewbank": "17", "description": "Angle up wall to thin crack, then easy groove." }, { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": "100m", "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": "7", "description": "Walk up easy scree ledge. Aim for groove leading to offwidth splitting headwall above. Scramble 10m up groove to belay at ledge" }, { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": "60m", "bolts": null, "trad": true, "ewbank": "17", "description": "Up groove and steeper offwidth to finish at ridgetop. Easy scramble to summit and descent down west ridge to Eryie" } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": true, "description": "On the right side of the Statue Wall. Finishes at steep offwidth to left of huge boulders on summit ridge", "ascent": "Steven Fortune and Rachel Knott Jan 2022" } ], "places": [], "image": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/wide/public/image/Statue-Wall-R2L.jpg?itok=kz5PyJ_A", "images": [ { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/wide/public/image/Statue-Wall-R2L.jpg?itok=kz5PyJ_A", "height": "613", "width": "1090" } ] }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/darrans/darran-mountains/karetai-pk/housekeeping-crag", "name": "Housekeeping Crag", "altitude": null, "access": null, "description": "On the same ledge and right next to Turner\u2019s Eyrie, all routes have steep starts straight off the ledge. All are 'top' pitches: you are already well above the deck and from the first hold are climbing on overhung rock.", "latlng": null, "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/darrans/darran-mountains/karetai-pk/housekeeping-crag/garden-path", "name": "Up the Garden Path", "grade": "19", "topo_ref": "1", "image": null, "images": [], "length": "22m", "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": "22m", "bolts": null, "trad": true, "ewbank": "19", "description": "Hard start, cruisy middle, steep finish." } ], "quality": 2, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": true, "description": null, "ascent": "Richard Turner, James Spiers, February 2015" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/darrans/darran-mountains/karetai-pk/housekeeping-crag/domestic-bliss", "name": "Domestic Bliss", "grade": "18", "topo_ref": "2", "image": null, "images": [], "length": "22m", "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": "22m", "bolts": null, "trad": true, "ewbank": "18", "description": "Hard start to uber-textured rib." } ], "quality": 3, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": true, "description": null, "ascent": "James Spiers, Richard Turner, February 2015" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/darrans/darran-mountains/karetai-pk/housekeeping-crag/low-pressure-subalpine-shower-system", "name": "Low Pressure Subalpine Shower System", "grade": "21", "topo_ref": "3", "image": null, "images": [], "length": "22m", "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": "22m", "bolts": null, "trad": true, "ewbank": "21", "description": "Hard start, steep face, terrace and pleasant top." } ], "quality": 2, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": true, "description": null, "ascent": "James Spiers, Richard Turner, February 2015" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/darrans/darran-mountains/karetai-pk/housekeeping-crag/and-dyke-dessert", "name": "And a Dyke for Dessert", "grade": "22", "topo_ref": "4", "image": null, "images": [], "length": "22m", "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": "22m", "bolts": null, "trad": true, "ewbank": "22", "description": "Steep start, convoluted but bomber gear, right up the dyke." } ], "quality": 3, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": true, "description": null, "ascent": "Richard Turner, James Spiers, February 2015" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/darrans/darran-mountains/karetai-pk/housekeeping-crag/doing-dishes", "name": "Doing the Dishes", "grade": "20", "topo_ref": "5", "image": null, "images": [], "length": "21m", "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": "21m", "bolts": null, "trad": true, "ewbank": "20", "description": "Climb the orange wall, technical moves to start and a sustained finish on big holds." } ], "quality": 2, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": true, "description": null, "ascent": "Rich Turner, Rich Thomson, February 2009" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/darrans/darran-mountains/karetai-pk/housekeeping-crag/beer-battered-orange-roughy", "name": "Beer Battered Orange Roughy", "grade": "23", "topo_ref": "6", "image": null, "images": [], "length": "21m", "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": "21m", "bolts": null, "trad": true, "ewbank": "23", "description": "The centre of the orange wall. Tricky gear and moves \u2013 but great!" } ], "quality": 3, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": true, "description": null, "ascent": "Richard Turner, James Spiers, February 2015" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/darrans/darran-mountains/karetai-pk/housekeeping-crag/hanging-out-washing", "name": "Hanging Out the Washing", "grade": "17", "topo_ref": "7", "image": null, "images": [], "length": "18m", "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": "18m", "bolts": null, "trad": true, "ewbank": "17", "description": "A reasonably committing start off the ledge leads into good bridging in the upper corner." } ], "quality": 1, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": true, "description": null, "ascent": "Rich Turner, Rich Thomson, February 2009" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/darrans/darran-mountains/karetai-pk/housekeeping-crag/emergency-exit", "name": "Emergency Exit", "grade": "16", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": "18m", "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": "18m", "bolts": null, "trad": true, "ewbank": "16", "description": "The closest climb to the Eyrie." } ], "quality": 1, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": true, "description": null, "ascent": "Rich Thomson, Rich Turner, February 2016" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/darrans/darran-mountains/karetai-pk/housekeeping-crag/pooh-corner", "name": "Pooh Corner", "grade": "20", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": "12m", "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": "12m", "bolts": null, "trad": true, "ewbank": "20", "description": "The short, steep corner about 10m right of the Eyrie." } ], "quality": 1, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": true, "description": null, "ascent": "Rich Turner, Rich Thomson, February 2016" } ], "places": [], "image": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/wide/public/image/Housekeeping_Crag_0.jpg?itok=Bhqvkuue", "images": [ { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/wide/public/image/Housekeeping_Crag_0.jpg?itok=Bhqvkuue", "height": "675", "width": "900" } ] }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/darrans/darran-mountains/karetai-pk/donne-face-south-west-face", "name": "Donne Face (South West Face)", "altitude": null, "access": "Descents from the face are lengthy. Parties have opted to traverse Underwood descending the West Ridge but this is difficult and time consuming. Dropping down the Taoka Ice-fall may be an option when in condition, otherwise exit using one of the routes out of the Central Darrans.", "description": "This dark face does not see many visitors. Long sustained climbing on rock that can be difficult to protect: pitons are still the protection of choice on this wall.", "latlng": null, "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/fiordland/darran-mountains/karetai-pk/donne-face-south-west-face/riley-wigley", "name": "Riley Wigley", "grade": "18", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": true, "ewbank": "18", "description": "18 pitches. Start from the high point on the glacier guarding the face. Climb straight up for 100m right of where the Taoka Icefall cuts back into the face. Tops out 200m below and west of the summit. \r\nPitches are commonly grade 16-18 with healthy run-outs and protection which could be scrounged with a little imagination and digging." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": true, "description": null, "ascent": "Keith Riley, Rob Wigley, 2000." }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/fiordland/darran-mountains/karetai-pk/donne-face-south-west-face/original-line", "name": "Original Line", "grade": "15", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": true, "ewbank": "15", "description": "30 pitches. Take the big right-facing corner at around one third height with a roof at the top. Pass the roof on the left wall, then traverse to centre of face and up to a couloir before gaining the summit. \r\nA steep face with some good free climbing. The party bivvied at the base of the wall 40m above the snowfield, and again at the summit." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": true, "description": null, "ascent": "Colin Dodge, Keith Lockwood, Jan 1974." }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/fiordland/darran-mountains/karetai-pk/donne-face-south-west-face/super-crack-darrans", "name": "Super Crack of the Darrans", "grade": "23,III", "topo_ref": null, "image": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/routes/Super-Crack-Karetai.jpeg?itok=ZsNob1Cy", "images": [ { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/routes/Super-Crack-Karetai.jpeg?itok=ZsNob1Cy", "height": "325", "width": "244" } ], "length": "150m", "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": "III", "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": "55m", "bolts": null, "trad": true, "ewbank": "23", "description": "The crack. Hands to fists to offwidth. Not technically difficult but a full body workout. Crack gloves useful." }, { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": "45m", "bolts": null, "trad": true, "ewbank": "21", "description": "Another 10m of crack climbing, and then angle up left across the difficult-to-read slab on spaced protection. Belay at the base of the crack where the wall steepens up again, just right of the arete." }, { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": "50m", "bolts": null, "trad": true, "ewbank": "22", "description": "A steep start, then left onto the west face of the gendarme. Save some juice for the final crack, finishing right onto the summit." } ], "quality": 3, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": true, "description": "High on the south edge of the Donne Face of Karetai is a 150m-high free-standing gendarme. One of the few pure cracks in the Darrans and unmatched exposure. To access, gain the low notch on the Te Puoho\u2013Donne ridge just beyond the base of the south ridge of Karetai. A 60m abseil and some scrambling takes you to the ledge at the base of the overhung south face. From the summit it\u2019s a short scramble across a huge chockstone to rejoin the mainland at the top of the initial steep step on the south ridge (it\u2019s a 60m abseil from here down to the n\u00e9v\u00e9).", "ascent": "Derek Cheng, Rich Thomson, Rich Turner, February 2022" } ], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] } ], "image": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/wide/public/image/Karetai-N.jpg?itok=Tjr91oFj", "images": [ { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/wide/public/image/Karetai-N.jpg?itok=Tjr91oFj", "height": "600", "width": "900" } ] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/otago/huxley-range/mt-heim": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/otago/huxley-range/mt-heim", "name": "Mt Heim", "altitude": "2205m", "access": null, "description": "TBA", "latlng": [ "-44.171509228", "169.58225574" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/otago/huxley-range/mt-heim/canyon-creek", "name": "From Canyon Creek", "grade": "2", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "2", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": null } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": "From Canyon Creek climb the easy eastern slopes to reach the summit.", "ascent": "Lindsay Crozier, Jim Crozier, Bruce Gillies, Selwyn Grave, Mathew Pinder, January 1936" } ], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aspiring/snowdrift-range/mt-beta": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aspiring/snowdrift-range/mt-beta", "name": "Mt Beta", "altitude": "2205m", "access": null, "description": "tba", "latlng": [ "-44.45718", "168.539094" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aspiring/snowdrift-range/mt-beta/whitbourn-saddle", "name": "From Whitbourn Saddle", "grade": null, "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "Climb as for Gamma and Delta. Alternatively climb from the saddle between The Snowman and Mt Alpha" } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": null } ], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/c58dhau-landsborough/strachan-range/mt-hawkins-te-waireika": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/c58dhau-landsborough/strachan-range/mt-hawkins-te-waireika", "name": "Mt Hawkins Te Waireika", "altitude": "2205m", "access": null, "description": null, "latlng": [ "-43.7636", "169.7023" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/westland/hooker-range/mt-hawkins/east-face", "name": "East Face", "grade": "1+,II", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": "0m", "pitches": [ { "alpine": "1+", "commitment": "II", "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": null } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": "0", "natural_pro": false, "description": "This climb was made from the head of the large, unnamed creek downstream of the Edison River. Straightforward slopes led onto the north-east ridge and the summit.", "ascent": "Dick Tornquist, Vic McGregor, January 1961" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/westland/hooker-range/mt-hawkins/north-face", "name": "North Face", "grade": "1+,II", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": "0m", "pitches": [ { "alpine": "1+", "commitment": "II", "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": null } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": "0", "natural_pro": false, "description": "From the Mahitahi at BY14 324 521, follow an open gully that cuts across the north face before gaining the north-east ridge around 1800m, which is then followed to the summit.", "ascent": "Nina Dickerhof, James Thornton, June 2017" } ], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/nelson-lakes/st-arnaud-range/mt-chittenden": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/nelson-lakes/st-arnaud-range/mt-chittenden", "name": "Mt Chittenden", "altitude": "2205m", "access": "Hamilton River (http://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/nelson-lakes/st-arnaud-range/hamilton-river)\nConnors Creek (http://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/nelson-lakes/st-arnaud-range/connors-creek)\nBegley Creek (http://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/nelson-lakes/st-arnaud-range/paske-creek-upper-rainbow-river-and-begley-creek)", "description": "Fifteen Mile Spur", "latlng": [ "-42.00882856", "172.82018036" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/nelson-lakes/st-arnaud-range/mt-chittenden/north-ridge", "name": "North Ridge", "grade": "2", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": "2", "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "Via Hamilton River. Ascend through open forest north of the eastern feeder to a basin below point 2154m. Head south-southeast to a small saddle above, and follow the ridge to a prominent step below point 2154m. Climb the step direct or turn it on eastern slopes. Pleasant scrambling leads to the summit. Alternatively, descend from the small saddle, sidle eastern slopes, then climb directly to the summit." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": null }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/nelson-lakes/st-arnaud-range/mt-chittenden/east-face", "name": "East Face", "grade": "1", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": "1", "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "Via Connors Creek. Climb steep scrubby gullies or scree and tussock slopes to a basin on the east face, then directly to the summit. Alternatively, climb easy slopes to a basin south-east of the summit and onto the narrow south ridge." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": null }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/nelson-lakes/st-arnaud-range/mt-chittenden/west-face", "name": "West Face", "grade": "1", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": "1", "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "Via Begley Creek. Climb up the waterfall creek west of the summit, and to a saddle on the south ridge. Follow the narrow ridge to the top." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": null } ], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki/burnett-mountains/mt-german": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki/burnett-mountains/mt-german", "name": "Mt German", "altitude": "2204m", "access": null, "description": null, "latlng": [ "-43.77719837", "170.20316187" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki/burnett-mountains/mt-german/north-west-ridge", "name": "north west ridge", "grade": "12,1,I,1", "topo_ref": "nz topo by16 748492", "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": "1", "commitment": "I", "mtcook": "1", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": "12", "description": "climb scree slopes up from parsons ck to the col at 1870m. from there follow the obvious gully up taking the climbers right fork to pass the final buttress via a short steepish bit of grade 12 scrambling to a ledge system traversing the southern side." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": null }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki/burnett-mountains/mt-german/south-ridge", "name": "South Ridge", "grade": "2", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": "2", "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": null } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": "Gain the south ridge from the saddle at 1900m. The final buttress at 2120m was avoided by crossing to the east ridge. Scramble to the summit.", "ascent": "First recorded ascent: Julia Valigore, Eric Skea, Dec 2022" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki/burnett-mountains/mt-german/northeast-ridge", "name": "Northeast Ridge", "grade": "1", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": "1", "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": null } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": "From Pt 1425, drop into the TL branch of Arthurs Creek. Ascend scree to the ridge at 1920m and carry onto the summit.", "ascent": "First recorded descent: Eric Skea, Julia Valigore, Dec 2022" } ], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aspiring/humboldt-mountains/niobe-pk": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aspiring/humboldt-mountains/niobe-pk", "name": "Niobe Pk", "altitude": "2204m", "access": null, "description": "tba", "latlng": [ "-44.56456303", "168.2370134" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aspiring/humboldt-mountains/niobe-pk/cow-saddle", "name": "From Cow Saddle", "grade": null, "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "From Cow Saddle, either direct on rock or by circling the peak on the snow. An alternate route is from Tantalus." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": null } ], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aspiring/main-divide/mt-tylee": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aspiring/main-divide/mt-tylee", "name": "Mt Tylee", "altitude": "2204m", "access": null, "description": null, "latlng": [ "-44.0124", "169.5918" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/%C5%8Dhau-landsborough/main-divide/mt-tylee/mt-greenfield", "name": "From Mt Greenfield", "grade": "2-", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "2-", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": null } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": "Along the ridge from Mt Greenfield.", "ascent": "M.R.Fitchett, GrahamRiley, J.D.Willis, February 1934" } ], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aspiring/main-divide/mt-tole": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aspiring/main-divide/mt-tole", "name": "Mt Tole", "altitude": "2203m", "access": null, "description": null, "latlng": [ "-44.05732263", "169.51315333" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/%C5%8Dhau-landsborough/main-divide/mt-tole/upper-ferguson-creek", "name": "From Upper Ferguson Creek", "grade": "2-", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "2-", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": null } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": "Accessible from upper Ferguson Creek, or from near the head of Long Flat\nCreek. Strike through the bush to reach the western snowslopes and plod north\non the west ridge to the summit.", "ascent": "First ascent unknown" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/%C5%8Dhau-landsborough/main-divide/mt-tole/north-face", "name": "North Face", "grade": "1+", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "1+", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": null } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": "From the head of the Wills Valley hard slogging up the northern slopes leads\nto the Divide and a climb of the north face.", "ascent": "Bob Boyd, Kit Preston, Rupert Shaw, Colin Young, December 1955" } ], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/triple-peak": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/triple-peak", "name": "Triple Pk", "altitude": "2203m", "access": null, "description": null, "latlng": [ "-44.47887227", "168.93464473" ], "routes": [], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/canterbury-westland-alps/cloudy-peak-range/mt-onslow": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/canterbury-westland-alps/cloudy-peak-range/mt-onslow", "name": "Mt Onslow", "altitude": "2203m", "access": null, "description": "Part of the Cloudy Pk, rock climbing area.", "latlng": [ "-43.451299", "170.780582" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/canterbury/cloudy-peak-range/mt-onslow/onomatopoeia", "name": "Onomatopoeia", "grade": "17,3", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": "250m", "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "3", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": "250m", "bolts": null, "trad": true, "ewbank": "17", "description": "The route starts at the base of the ar\u0090ete and follows this to the summit. Enters a 50m chimney at about half-height. Top pitch comes comes onto the left wall slightly to avoid a small roof (crux). Eight pitches. Descend by 5 x 50m abseils down the route." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": true, "description": "On the prominent buttress leading directly to the true summit of Mt Onslow\n(2310m), located at the head of the valley on the right of Cloudy Stream\nvalley, about 30 min walk upstream from the usual camp site.", "ascent": "Chris Burtenshaw, Martyn Clark, 1993" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/canterbury/cloudy-peak-range/mt-onslow/creature-comfort", "name": "Creature Comfort", "grade": "21", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": "230m", "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": "40m", "bolts": "6", "trad": true, "ewbank": "20", "description": "Move right to short corner, up this a few metres to 1st bolt on wall. Move onto face and climb seams passing another bolt. The seams angle slightly left and the route follows that line up the face. Passing a bolt in dark juggy rock, then another above a small ledge. From there the route goes straight up passing two more bolts, directly to belay bolts beneath 1st overhang. 6B, few extra runners can be used." }, { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": "40m", "bolts": "5", "trad": true, "ewbank": "20", "description": "Straight up past 2 bolts to obvious feature on the overhang. Slightly left-wards line up past a bolt and up to the \u2018Witches Hat\u2019. Straight up face to bolt then step left and up to V shaped ledge. Up right to bolt, then straight up through overhang to belay bolts beneath overhang." }, { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": "30m", "bolts": "1", "trad": true, "ewbank": "21", "description": "Move left up to bolt on face above overhang. Onto face and up to crack for runners, then move left and climb up to gain two seams heading up the face tending slightly right. Towards the top the left seam stops and the right seam becomes a crack. Belay bolts on ledge above this. Ample natural pro on face." }, { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": "45m", "bolts": "3", "trad": true, "ewbank": "20", "description": "Step left around corner onto face. Follow obvious left- wards rising traverse past 2B. Then up face tending slightly L, about ten metres to a bolt above a small ledge. Continue up same line to belay bolts in V shaped stance." }, { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": "45m", "bolts": "2", "trad": true, "ewbank": "19", "description": "Move left to bolt, then up seams to ledge. Directly up face past another bolt. Then tend slightly left- wards up face on juggy rock to belay bolts on major ledge." }, { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": "30m", "bolts": null, "trad": true, "ewbank": "14", "description": "Climb juggy wall to gain corner about ten metres up. Follow up corner and over bulges. The angle eases above bulges. Final belay bolt is in the corner when level with terrace on right." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": "6", "natural_pro": true, "description": "On the Onslow Wall, left of Onslow Buttress. Climb scree to its highest point on the left of the face, then up the left side of a gully to reach belay bolts. Six sustained pitches on the central part of the face, with some bolts.", "ascent": "Bill McLeod, Martyn Clark, 1992" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/canterbury/cloudy-peak-range/mt-onslow/sky-lab", "name": "Sky-Lab", "grade": "24", "topo_ref": "SL", "image": null, "images": [], "length": "165m", "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": "30m", "bolts": null, "trad": true, "ewbank": "15", "description": "Start just right of gully, climb up then move right onto face and up. Face is sound, few runners. Up easy ground tending a little left to belay bolts on main ledge." }, { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": "30m", "bolts": "1", "trad": true, "ewbank": "16", "description": "From belay on ledge move right to belay bolts on face. Route climbs straight up from face belay. A bolt on the face is passed on its left. Up and right to gain the left- facing corner where cracks take runners. Up and right round corner, up to belay bolts beneath overhang." }, { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": "45m", "bolts": "4", "trad": true, "ewbank": "20", "description": "Climb overhang past 2B. Continue up left- facing corner (1B near top). Then up and tending right towards big left- facing corner. 1B in this corner marks the point to traverse right around onto face. Then up to belay bolts." }, { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": "48m", "bolts": "11", "trad": true, "ewbank": "24", "description": "Sustained. 11B. Straight up to 1st bolt. Above 1st bolt is a cam placement, then move left up to 2nd bolt. left and up to the 3rd bolt, then straight up face passing bolts. There are two wire placements at obvious points where bolts are spaced. At top of pitch move left to belay bolts. Use nut pick to remove wires." }, { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": "12m", "bolts": null, "trad": true, "ewbank": "10", "description": "Climb easy face straight up to belay bolts on top." } ], "quality": 1, "bolts": "11", "natural_pro": true, "description": "Three moderate pitches to reach a stunning full rope-length on the smooth diamond-shaped slab, with just one jug at about two-thirds height. Then a short final pitch to reach abseil bolts. Take plenty of quickdraws.", "ascent": "Bill McLeod, David Newstead, 1992" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/canterbury/cloudy-peak-range/mt-onslow/onslow-buttress", "name": "Onslow Buttress", "grade": "16", "topo_ref": "OB", "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": true, "ewbank": "14", "description": "Start a little right of the toe of the buttress and scramble up a bit to gain the crest. Straightforward climbing with spaced gear to reach a large platform with an old bolt station." }, { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": true, "ewbank": "16", "description": "Nice climbing protected by microcams, with a committing move to the right after about 20 metres." }, { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": true, "ewbank": "15", "description": "Continue up the right side, moving back to the crest for the belay." }, { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": true, "ewbank": "15", "description": "Continue up the right side of the buttress." }, { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": true, "ewbank": "6", "description": "Gain the lower-angled area and scramble a full pitch with no protection." }, { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": true, "ewbank": "16", "description": "Belay under the overhang just right of the buttress and pull through on good holds. Nice climbing with good microcams." }, { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": true, "ewbank": "16", "description": "Climb out left on to steep broken ground with good gear and protection, then above the ledge move up through big blocks on the right." }, { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": true, "ewbank": "13", "description": "Broken ground with steeper sections and scrambling intermingled." }, { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": true, "ewbank": "12", "description": "Mostly scrambling with a couple of steeper sections leading to the final top out on the pinnacle summit." } ], "quality": 1, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": true, "description": null, "ascent": "Francis Main, Lindsay Main, 2015" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/canterbury/cloudy-peak-range/mt-onslow/north-east-ridge", "name": "North East Ridge", "grade": "3-", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "3-", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "The first ascent was made from Broadleaf Hut. Once on the ridge the final 400 metres of rock\r\nare steep and tricky." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Cuthbert Denham, Jack Pattle, April 1936" } ], "places": [], "image": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/wide/public/image/Onslow%20Buttress%20topo.jpg?itok=E-U0L1lY", "images": [ { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/wide/public/image/Onslow%20Buttress%20topo.jpg?itok=E-U0L1lY", "height": "798", "width": "900" } ] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/mt-repulse": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/mt-repulse", "name": "Mt Repulse", "altitude": "2202m", "access": null, "description": null, "latlng": [ "-44.57699844", "168.70850158" ], "routes": [], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/c58dhau-landsborough/barrier-range/pt-2200": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/c58dhau-landsborough/barrier-range/pt-2200", "name": "Pt 2200", "altitude": "2200m", "access": "About 45 minutes past access to Grasshopper, bush bash for 10 minutes to take long scree gut that reaches almost to valley floor, then easy height gain to 2200m.", "description": "Don\u2019t Drop The Chandelier (June 11) in red, The Grrr Room in yellow (Aug 06), and descent route in blue.", "latlng": [ "-44.0970202065", "169.769712581" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/%C5%8Dhau-landsborough/barrier-range/pt-2200/north-face", "name": "North Face", "grade": "2+", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "2+", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": null } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": "See North Face of Steeple Peak.", "ascent": null }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/%C5%8Dhau-landsborough/barrier-range/pt-2200/south-temple", "name": "From the South Temple", "grade": "2+", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "2+", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": null } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": "The col between Peak 2200 and Steeple is readily accessible from the mid\nSouth Temple valley. About grade 10 rock on the summit pyramid.", "ascent": null }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/%C5%8Dhau-landsborough/barrier-range/pt-2200/soft-tahrget", "name": "Soft Tahrget", "grade": "15", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": "125m", "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": "125m", "bolts": null, "trad": true, "ewbank": "15", "description": "Start in the notch at lowest point of buttress, climbing up a corner and out onto the face. Continue up and through some steep moves to near the ridgeline and on excellent rock towards the top. Easy descent towards Steeple peak. Protection and rock quality similar to Weta Prowl." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": true, "description": null, "ascent": "Jamie Foxley, February 2005" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/%C5%8Dhau-landsborough/barrier-range/pt-2200/south-face", "name": "South face", "grade": "3", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "3", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": null } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": "Climb central gully. Crux 25 m high narrow water ice gut, up to 75 degrees\nand short thinly iced rock step. Overall grade 3.", "ascent": "Paul Hersey, Matt Woods, July 2005" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/%C5%8Dhau-landsborough/barrier-range/pt-2200/grrr-room", "name": "The Grrr Room", "grade": "WI4", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": "WI4", "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": null } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": "Just bellow west side of 2200m. Three pitches, first two thin, with tied off\nice screws, a fat steep third pitch WI4, then onto upper snowfield. One\nabseil on descent down gully to right. Three pitches added to bottom later,\none solo WI2, then two at WI 2+, and a thin WI3 to top of gully.", "ascent": "Paul Hersey, Matt Woods, August 2006" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/%C5%8Dhau-landsborough/barrier-range/pt-2200/don%E2%80%99t-drop-chandelier", "name": "Don\u2019t Drop The Chandelier", "grade": "WI4", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": "WI4", "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": null } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": "The route is on the lower tier of the SW face of Peak 2200m, starting at\naround 1500 metres. Three pitches starting immediately to the left of The\nGrrr Room. Cimb left, then right to join The Grrr Room on the final pitch,\nthen onto upper snowfield. Descent down gully to right (marked in blue), may\nrequire multiple abseils depending on snow conditions.", "ascent": "Jamie Vinton-Boot, Paul Hersey, June 2011" } ], "places": [], "image": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/wide/public/image/pk2200ice.jpg?itok=lmybLiFR", "images": [ { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/wide/public/image/pk2200ice.jpg?itok=lmybLiFR", "height": "455", "width": "606" } ] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/arthurs-pass/main-divide/mt-rolleston-middle-pk": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/arthurs-pass/main-divide/mt-rolleston-middle-pk", "name": "Mt Rolleston Middle Pk", "altitude": "2200m", "access": null, "description": null, "latlng": null, "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/arthurs-pass/main-divide/mt-rolleston-middle-pk/crow-glacier", "name": "From Crow Glacier", "grade": "2", "topo_ref": "1", "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": "2", "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "from the northeastern reaches of the Crow neve. It may be ascended on either its East or West Ridges. The crux in this climb is the glacial ascent from the Crow Valley. Beware of hidden crevasses." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": null } ], "places": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/arthurs-pass/main-divide/mt-rolleston-middle-pk/otira-face", "name": "Otira Face", "altitude": null, "access": null, "description": "Routes on the 900-metre Otira Face to the Middle Peak of Mt Rolleston are for experienced parties only. More often than not the rock can be quite rotten in zones as determined by the obvious synclined strata!\nVisibility plays a major role in a successful and safe climb of the Otira Face, and if poor could lead to major epics on the Middle Peak routes.\nRoutes on the Otira face of the High Peak are listed separately.", "latlng": null, "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/arthurs-pass/main-divide/mt-rolleston-middle-pk/otira-face/middle-direct", "name": "Middle Direct", "grade": "2", "topo_ref": "A", "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": "2", "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "The arete on the left-hand side of the central gut is the most direct line to Middle Peak. It is a loose, long haul. It has claimed many lives in its short history of ascents. Route finding towards the top of this face tends to be quite messy; nearly everybody manages to concoct an original finish." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": null }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/arthurs-pass/main-divide/mt-rolleston-middle-pk/otira-face/middle-rib", "name": "Middle Rib", "grade": "2", "topo_ref": "B", "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": "2", "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": null } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": "The rib is best reached via a slabby ramp from the lower Otira Slide. Join\nthe rotten spur that sweeps around to join the Middle Direct route just below\nthe summit of the Middle Peak.", "ascent": null } ], "places": [], "image": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/wide/public/image/AP023_1.jpg?itok=Nh0OcrOv", "images": [ { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/wide/public/image/AP023_1.jpg?itok=Nh0OcrOv", "height": "481", "width": "709" } ] } ], "image": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/wide/public/image/AP001_1.jpg?itok=8BbOGI6g", "images": [ { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/wide/public/image/AP001_1.jpg?itok=8BbOGI6g", "height": "442", "width": "709" } ] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/queenstown/remarkables/telecom-tower": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/queenstown/remarkables/telecom-tower", "name": "Telecom Tower", "altitude": "2200m", "access": "A ledge system, known as Queen's Drive, runs under this face. To access Queen's Drive walk to the top of the Shadow Basin Chair lift from the Remarkables Ski-field carpark. Climb west to saddle above. From here, a rising traverse to south accesses the start of Queens Drive. Sections are described from left to right.", "description": "The west facing crags on Telecom Tower form a long, continuous stretch of buttresses and gullies unfolds all the way along to Double Cone. Many short, easily accessible routes with a wide variety of difficulties, high exposure and great views down to Lake Wakatipu.", "latlng": [ "-45.06242725", "168.8020134" ], "routes": [], "places": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/otago/the-remarkables/telecom-tower/first-buttress", "name": "First Buttress", "altitude": null, "access": "Access from Queens Drive", "description": "First thing you see from Queens Drive", "latlng": [ "-45.06242725", "168.8020134" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/otago/the-remarkables/telecom-tower/first-buttress/unknown-crack", "name": "Unknown Crack", "grade": "14,M4", "topo_ref": "1", "image": null, "images": [], "length": "15m", "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": "M4", "length": "15m", "bolts": null, "trad": true, "ewbank": "14", "description": "Short crack with good protection. A good route for someone wanting to get into dry tooling or summer trad" } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": true, "description": null, "ascent": "Daniel Joll, 2011" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/otago/the-remarkables/telecom-tower/first-buttress/warm-crack", "name": "Warm Up Crack", "grade": "M3", "topo_ref": "2", "image": null, "images": [], "length": "15m", "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": "M3", "length": "15m", "bolts": null, "trad": true, "ewbank": null, "description": "Easy gully, around the corner and right of unknown crack" } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": true, "description": "This route has been used as a top rope instruction route for many years at\nthe Ice and Mixed Festival, the first actual leading ascent is unknown.", "ascent": "FWA Unknown" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/otago/the-remarkables/telecom-tower/first-buttress/project", "name": "Project", "grade": null, "topo_ref": "P", "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": null }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/otago/the-remarkables/telecom-tower/first-buttress/mixed-emotions", "name": "Mixed Emotions", "grade": "M3", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": "17m", "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": "M3", "length": "17m", "bolts": null, "trad": true, "ewbank": null, "description": null } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": true, "description": "Start just left of right arete, first buttress. Follows blocks and shallow\ncorner systems to easy slab above. Double bolt belay on left above as for\npreceding routes. Maybe M3?", "ascent": "FFA Rene Provis and Lincoln Quilliam, 2015" } ], "places": [], "image": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/wide/public/image/First%20Buttress.jpg?itok=938sYWde", "images": [ { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/wide/public/image/First%20Buttress.jpg?itok=938sYWde", "height": "552", "width": "586" } ] }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/otago/the-remarkables/telecom-tower/second-buttress", "name": "Second Buttress", "altitude": null, "access": "Access from Queens Drive", "description": null, "latlng": [ "-45.06242725", "168.8020134" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/otago/the-remarkables/telecom-tower/second-buttress/not-so-fortunate", "name": "Not So Fortunate", "grade": "M5", "topo_ref": "4", "image": null, "images": [], "length": "25m", "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": "M5", "length": "25m", "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "Steep crack with committing moves to DB belay LHS of buttress." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Daniel Joll, Steve Fortune, 2012" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/otago/the-remarkables/telecom-tower/second-buttress/force-it-lhc", "name": "Force It / LHC", "grade": "20,M4", "topo_ref": "5", "image": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/route/IMG_2134.JPG?itok=XZQWt0Xc", "images": [ { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/route/IMG_2134.JPG?itok=XZQWt0Xc", "height": "244", "width": "325" } ], "length": "50m", "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": "M4", "length": "25m", "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": "20", "description": "Climb right facing corner, tending left after half\r\nheight. Double bolt belay" }, { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": "M3", "length": "25m", "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "Second pitch runs to the top of the buttress and a further double bolt belay" } ], "quality": 2, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": "2 pitches.", "ascent": "(Winter) Daniel Joll, Steve Fortune, 2012" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/otago/the-remarkables/telecom-tower/second-buttress/ari-supremacy", "name": "Ari-an Supremacy", "grade": "M4", "topo_ref": "7", "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": "M4", "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "'Ari-an Supremacy takes the obvious gully about 7metres to the right of 'Force It'. I believe it now has a bolted anchor just to the right of the first major chimney section. It's best climbed as a trad route, going through two chimneys to pop out onto a large belay ledge about 30 metres up. Beyond there, Ari-an Supremacy traverses the ledge, turning a block, and climbing a small arete to eventually top out on the ridge. While the second pitch is fairly easy, there's not a great deal of pro. All in all, I'd say it's closer to 60-70m all the way to the top.'" } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Ari Kingan, Peter Harris, August 2013" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/otago/the-remarkables/telecom-tower/second-buttress/ari-retreat", "name": "Ari-an Retreat", "grade": "M4", "topo_ref": "7b", "image": null, "images": [], "length": "60m", "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": "M4", "length": "60m", "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "a direct finish from the start of the second pitch of Arian Supremacy; Above the belay ledge at 30 metres, the route heads directly for a roof with \u2018awesome hooks,\u2019 and then towards \u2018easier ground\u2019 on snow to the double bolt belay." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Jono Clarke, Frazer Attrill, August 2013" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/otago/the-remarkables/telecom-tower/second-buttress/sam-i-am", "name": "Sam I Am", "grade": "M6", "topo_ref": "6", "image": null, "images": [], "length": "25m", "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": "M6", "length": "25m", "bolts": null, "trad": true, "ewbank": null, "description": "The steep roof crack between Force It, and Arian Supremacy. Pumpy moves lead up through the cracks and left to the belay of the first pitch of Force It" } ], "quality": 1, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": true, "description": null, "ascent": "FWA Jono Clarke" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/otago/the-remarkables/telecom-tower/second-buttress/learning-lead", "name": "Learning to Lead", "grade": "M3", "topo_ref": "8", "image": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/route/Topo%20Jins%20Route%20Lovely%20Gully.jpg?itok=QIzZZqAo", "images": [ { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/route/Topo%20Jins%20Route%20Lovely%20Gully.jpg?itok=QIzZZqAo", "height": "244", "width": "325" } ], "length": "45m", "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": "M3", "length": "20m", "bolts": null, "trad": true, "ewbank": null, "description": "The right most crack and corner on the first buttress. Climb the corner on good protection to a double bolt belay." }, { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": "M3", "length": "25m", "bolts": null, "trad": true, "ewbank": null, "description": "From the double bolt belay head up via a right facing corner to the top of the buttress. Belay from the ridge" } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": true, "description": "The double bolt belay was installed by Jono Clarke by traversing in from the\ngully. He then cleaned all the loose rock off pitch one and left the route\nfor someone else to claim. During the 2015 Ice and Mixed Festival Daniel\nJoll told us to climb the first pitch for the learning to lead clinic, and I\nfell off at the crux before getting up on the second try. We went back a few\ndays later to climb both pitches. Dan reckons the protection is good, but as\na novice trad-climber, I didn't find many good placements for pro.", "ascent": "Jin Cong, Gabriela Scheufele, August 2015" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/otago/the-remarkables/telecom-tower/second-buttress/lovely-gully", "name": "Lovely Gully", "grade": "M3", "topo_ref": "9", "image": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/route/Topo%20Jins%20Route%20Lovely%20Gully_0.jpg?itok=c7ncn3-m", "images": [ { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/route/Topo%20Jins%20Route%20Lovely%20Gully_0.jpg?itok=c7ncn3-m", "height": "244", "width": "325" } ], "length": "35m", "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": "M3", "length": "35m", "bolts": null, "trad": true, "ewbank": null, "description": "Follow Gully tending right for 8m, through right facing corner. Belay in small alcove, DB Belay, or exit right to ridge -Joll. Left hand exit via wide crack (M4 variation) -Addis & Scott." } ], "quality": 2, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": true, "description": null, "ascent": "Daniel Joll solo, 2012" } ], "places": [], "image": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/wide/public/image/Second%20Buttress.jpg?itok=GJ8L7-TV", "images": [ { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/wide/public/image/Second%20Buttress.jpg?itok=GJ8L7-TV", "height": "527", "width": "467" } ] }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/otago/the-remarkables/telecom-tower/afterglow-buttress", "name": "Afterglow Buttress", "altitude": null, "access": null, "description": "Access from Queens Drive", "latlng": [ "-45.06242725", "168.8020134" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/otago/the-remarkables/telecom-tower/afterglow-buttress/sgian-dubh", "name": "Sgian Dubh", "grade": "M4", "topo_ref": "1", "image": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/route/sgian%20dubh.jpg?itok=5K7nRXaD", "images": [ { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/route/sgian%20dubh.jpg?itok=5K7nRXaD", "height": "306", "width": "325" }, { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/route/sgianDubh_P3.jpg?itok=S034BPdp", "height": "325", "width": "244" } ], "length": "90m", "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": "M4", "length": "90m", "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "The gully/chimney immediately left of the afterglow buttress with 3 stepped roofs. Good chimneying, ice and turf, classic mixed climbing. 2 pitches up chimney. 3rd pitch: 'angled back left up cracks on a steep headwall, heading behind a larger fin of rock, which appeared from below like a V groove, but gave more pleasant chimneying. The crux was below this up a hand crack, so good gear and good hand jams." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "FA Steve Fortune, Peter Harris, Ari Kingan, 2013." }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/otago/the-remarkables/telecom-tower/afterglow-buttress/cider-man", "name": "Cider Man", "grade": "20,M5", "topo_ref": "2", "image": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/routes/Sgian%20Dubh2.jpg?itok=vI3sPj4d", "images": [ { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/routes/Sgian%20Dubh2.jpg?itok=vI3sPj4d", "height": "325", "width": "217" } ], "length": "40m", "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": "M5", "length": "25m", "bolts": null, "trad": true, "ewbank": "20", "description": "Cracks up arete left of slabs. Belay on ledge, can step right to Afterglow anchors to abseil." }, { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": "M6", "length": "15m", "bolts": null, "trad": true, "ewbank": "20", "description": "step left, up cracks and finish at Afterglow anchors.\r\nFWA Sooji Clarkson, (Ranfurly Gurl)" } ], "quality": 3, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": true, "description": "A popular, well protected rock or drytooling route", "ascent": "Julian White 2010." }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/otago/the-remarkables/telecom-tower/afterglow-buttress/afterglow", "name": "Afterglow", "grade": "17", "topo_ref": "3", "image": null, "images": [], "length": "45m", "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": "45m", "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": "17", "description": "Start up a left facing corner.\r\nCan be climbed with or without the\r\nbolts as there is plenty of good traditional\r\ngear. The first ascensionists have\r\nasked for the bolts to remain, however\r\nif you want one of the best grade\r\n17 traditional routes in the country\r\nclimb the route as a single 45m pitch\r\non gear. Take twin ropes, a selection\r\nof small wires, small Camalots and\r\ndoubles of regular Camalots to #4." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Dave Bolger, Reece Doyle 2010." }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/otago/the-remarkables/telecom-tower/afterglow-buttress/ground-rush", "name": "Ground Rush", "grade": "18", "topo_ref": "4", "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": "18", "description": "Start up right hand ar\u00eate\r\nbefore tending slightly left as you get\r\nhigher on the face. Very run out in\r\nthe lower three quarters and could\r\nuse a clean. If you don\u2019t feel comfortable\r\nat the grade, this is a good\r\none to avoid." }, { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": "15", "description": "There is a rap station at the top to\r\ntake you back to the anchors of Afterglow." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": "The first pitch of this is quite run out and could use a brush. The name\nrelates to how the ground would rise up to great you if you fell off, due to\nthe lack of protection", "ascent": "Daniel Joll, Cris Vanyo 2011." }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/otago/the-remarkables/telecom-tower/afterglow-buttress/project", "name": "Project", "grade": null, "topo_ref": "5", "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "Thin seam and crack just around the\r\nar\u00eate of Ground Rush." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": null }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/otago/the-remarkables/telecom-tower/afterglow-buttress/chockstone-goulette", "name": "Chockstone Goulette", "grade": "M4", "topo_ref": "6", "image": null, "images": [], "length": "100m", "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": "M4", "length": "40m", "bolts": null, "trad": true, "ewbank": null, "description": "LH Chimney past chockstone, up tight\r\ngully tending left to the top of Afterglow buttress" }, { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": "M3", "length": "30m", "bolts": null, "trad": true, "ewbank": null, "description": "head straight up short pitch." }, { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": "M4", "length": "30m", "bolts": null, "trad": true, "ewbank": null, "description": "Move uptowards the ridge on the left hand side of the arete" } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": true, "description": null, "ascent": "Danny Murphy, Alex Corpas 2011." }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/otago/the-remarkables/telecom-tower/afterglow-buttress/cold-fear", "name": "Cold Fear", "grade": "M5", "topo_ref": "7", "image": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/route/photo%202_0.JPG?itok=rOMkm8OX", "images": [ { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/route/photo%202_0.JPG?itok=rOMkm8OX", "height": "244", "width": "325" } ], "length": "90m", "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": "M5", "length": "30m", "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "Crank up the short overhanging hand crack. belay in an alcove" }, { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": "M4", "length": "30m", "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "Bridge up a corner and eventually belay on the right of the arete" }, { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": "M4", "length": "30m", "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "follow a vauge crack just right of the left arete to the top of the buttress. Just enough gear to keep you moving. For an easy exit escape right into the gully." } ], "quality": 1, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "FWA Daniel Joll Jaz Morris" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/otago/the-remarkables/telecom-tower/afterglow-buttress/cold-fear-0", "name": "Cold Fear", "grade": "M5", "topo_ref": null, "image": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/route/photo%202.JPG?itok=hMCRSxYp", "images": [ { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/route/photo%202.JPG?itok=hMCRSxYp", "height": "244", "width": "325" } ], "length": "90m", "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": "M5", "length": "90m", "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "Right hand Chimney system in between\r\nthe Afterglow Buttress and\r\nBolt Buttress. Follow the right of the two cracks, Steep moves 20-20m P1, then M4 up to ledge. Final pitch M4-5." } ], "quality": 2, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": "Follow the steep crack (right most crack in the clear recess just after the\nafterglow buttress.) Good protection and a couple of hard moves lead up to a\nbelay stance. Second pitch M4ish final pitch M4-5 the route gets its name\nafter Jaz took a small fall on the final pitch landing back onto the ledge\n(which was covered in deep snow) so no damage done. After the fall he sent\nthe pitch. The pic is of Jaz on the final pitch.", "ascent": "Daniel Joll" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/otago/the-remarkables/telecom-tower/afterglow-buttress/easy-pickings", "name": "Easy Pickings", "grade": "14", "topo_ref": "8", "image": null, "images": [], "length": "30m", "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": "30m", "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": "14", "description": "30m. Up right- facing corner system\r\nto Double Bolt Belay." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": "This route is located off the afterglow buttress on the left hand side of the\nbolt buttress", "ascent": "Daniel Joll, Cris Vanyo 2011." } ], "places": [], "image": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/wide/public/image/Afterglow%20Buttress2.jpg?itok=QSj1AKm7", "images": [ { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/wide/public/image/Afterglow%20Buttress2.jpg?itok=QSj1AKm7", "height": "651", "width": "578" }, { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/image/Sgian%20Dubh2.jpg?itok=WjpBR6F5", "height": "325", "width": "217" }, { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/image/chockstone%20goulette.jpg?itok=CC2gs-CT", "height": "244", "width": "325" } ] }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/queenstown/remarkables/telecom-tower/bolt-buttress", "name": "The Bolt Buttress", "altitude": null, "access": null, "description": "Access from Queens Drive", "latlng": [ "-45.06242725", "168.8020134" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/otago/the-remarkables/telecom-tower/the-bolt-buttress/cold-fear-see-afterglow-buttress-info", "name": "Cold Fear - See afterglow buttress for info", "grade": "M4", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": "M4", "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "RH steep Chimney" } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": null }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/otago/the-remarkables/telecom-tower/the-bolt-buttress/15-mcfanny-goes-top-roping", "name": "15. McFanny Goes Top Roping", "grade": "14", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": "30m", "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": "30m", "bolts": null, "trad": true, "ewbank": "14", "description": "Straight up through overlap\r\nthen onto easy slab that protects\r\nwith good Camalots in breaks. Take a\r\nfull range of sizes from small to large." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": true, "description": null, "ascent": "Daniel Joll, Erika Tovar 2011." }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/otago/the-remarkables/telecom-tower/the-bolt-buttress/16-im-pussy", "name": "16. I'm a Pussy", "grade": "19", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": "30m", "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": "30m", "bolts": null, "trad": true, "ewbank": "19", "description": "Start 5m left of Angel Cakes under small roof. Move\r\nup and right then back left to gain a crack near the ar\u00eate.\r\nContinue up this and then cross the ar\u00eate onto the slab\r\nof McFanny Goes Top Roping. Be careful not to fall off\r\nbefore you reach the first placement." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": true, "description": null, "ascent": "Daniel Joll, Erika Tovar 2011." }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/otago/the-remarkables/telecom-tower/the-bolt-buttress/17-angel-cakes", "name": "17. Angel Cakes", "grade": "21", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": "20m", "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": "20m", "bolts": "5", "trad": true, "ewbank": "21", "description": "Equipped with 5 bolts and gear to #4 Camalot.\r\nClimb to bolted belay at the top of buttress." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": "5", "natural_pro": true, "description": null, "ascent": "Al Uren, Wayne Marshal 2010." }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/otago/the-remarkables/telecom-tower/the-bolt-buttress/18-sustained-loss-traction", "name": "18. Sustained Loss of Traction", "grade": "21", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": "5", "trad": true, "ewbank": "21", "description": "Equipped with 5 bolts & natural gear. Another good traditional\r\nproject bolted for the masses. Bolted & cleaned by Al\r\nUren. Start up the crack with a few bolts then head left to\r\njoin up with the top of Angel Cakes." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": "5", "natural_pro": true, "description": null, "ascent": "Milo Gilmour 2012" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/otago/the-remarkables/telecom-tower/the-bolt-buttress/19-project", "name": "19. Project", "grade": null, "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "Start as per any of the previous routes and continue up\r\nthe easy ridge to the summit ridge of the Telecom Tower." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": null } ], "places": [], "image": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/wide/public/image/Bolt%20Buttress.jpg?itok=TqpJKXxp", "images": [ { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/wide/public/image/Bolt%20Buttress.jpg?itok=TqpJKXxp", "height": "416", "width": "341" } ] }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/otago/the-remarkables/telecom-tower/saturday-morning-special", "name": "Saturday Morning Special", "altitude": null, "access": null, "description": "Access from Queens Drive", "latlng": [ "-45.06242725", "168.8020134" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/otago/the-remarkables/telecom-tower/saturday-morning-special/number-one-gully", "name": "Number One Gully", "grade": "M3", "topo_ref": "20", "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": "M3", "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": null } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": "Two pitches. Climb obvious gully on LHS of buttress.", "ascent": "Tony Burnell, Sally Ford, 2009" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/otago/the-remarkables/telecom-tower/saturday-morning-special/m4", "name": "M4", "grade": "M4", "topo_ref": "20 A", "image": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/route/New%20Route.jpg?itok=NgilxpKt", "images": [ { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/route/New%20Route.jpg?itok=NgilxpKt", "height": "244", "width": "325" }, { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/route/Jono%20P1.jpg?itok=0og1hBW4", "height": "244", "width": "325" }, { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/route/photo%203.JPG?itok=IzMQM-xB", "height": "244", "width": "325" } ], "length": "50m", "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": "M4", "length": "50m", "bolts": null, "trad": true, "ewbank": null, "description": null } ], "quality": 1, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": true, "description": "Short multi pitch route on the nice buttress just right of Number One Gully.\nThere are two routes on this attractive pyramid this is the left hand of the\ntwo climbs. both are a similar grade.", "ascent": "Daniel Joll, Jaz Morris, Jono Clarke, Di Drayton" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/otago/the-remarkables/telecom-tower/saturday-morning-special/aussie-potato-farmer", "name": "The Aussie Potato Farmer", "grade": "M5", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": "40m", "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": "M5", "length": "40m", "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "'overhanging crack [straight] off the deck. Its in an alcove not far left of saturday morning special. Good hooks. Then into ice and snow after pulling through. One more tricky step. Followed by low angled corner no pro. Snow on slab on right and good footholds on left side.'" } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Danny Murphy, Owen Davis, August 2013" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/otago/the-remarkables/telecom-tower/saturday-morning-special/205-no-holds-beard", "name": "20.5: No Holds Beard", "grade": "M5", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": "M5", "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "Left of SMS. Up a rock step left of triangle prow." }, { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": true, "ewbank": null, "description": "Head on up gully for 5m then move left on ledge below fist rock step, continue up angling left (limited gear), finishing under big roof and break in arete." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": true, "description": null, "ascent": "John Barnes, Di Drayton, 2012" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/otago/the-remarkables/telecom-tower/saturday-morning-special/saturday-morning-special", "name": "Saturday Morning Special", "grade": "M3", "topo_ref": "21", "image": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/route/SMS.jpg?itok=Qad1I45u", "images": [ { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/route/SMS.jpg?itok=Qad1I45u", "height": "244", "width": "325" } ], "length": "150m", "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": "M3", "length": "150m", "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "Small steeps and snow gullies a great introductory route\r\nto climbing on the West Face of the Telecom Tower." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Tony Burnell, Sally Ford, Aaron Ford 2009." }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/otago/the-remarkables/telecom-tower/saturday-morning-special/un-named", "name": "Un-Named", "grade": "M5", "topo_ref": "22", "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": "M5", "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "Just Right of SMS. Bouldery move\r\nover chock stone." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Sally Ford, Tony Burnell, Micheal K 2012." }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/otago/the-remarkables/telecom-tower/saturday-morning-special/ben-dover", "name": "Ben Dover", "grade": "M4", "topo_ref": "24", "image": null, "images": [], "length": "15m", "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": "M4", "length": "15m", "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "1 short pitch leading up to the ledge that Recessionary\r\nDowngrade and Blow Up start from." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Ben Dare, Danny Murphy 2010." }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/otago/the-remarkables/telecom-tower/saturday-morning-special/chens-route", "name": "Chens Route", "grade": "M4", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": "10m", "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": "M4", "length": "10m", "bolts": null, "trad": true, "ewbank": null, "description": "A short pitch right of Ben Dover. Somewhere between M4-5. The crack is step but short and the difficulties will be over quickly." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": true, "description": null, "ascent": "David Chen" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/otago/the-remarkables/telecom-tower/saturday-morning-special/recessionary-downgrade", "name": "Recessionary Downgrade", "grade": "M5", "topo_ref": "23", "image": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/route/IMG_0598.JPG?itok=NW2Gz9kx", "images": [ { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/route/IMG_0598.JPG?itok=NW2Gz9kx", "height": "325", "width": "244" }, { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/route/IMG_0601.JPG?itok=IbYDUXgk", "height": "325", "width": "244" } ], "length": "165m", "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": "M5", "length": "35m", "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "Walk up sloping ledge towards the obvious steep crack of Blow Up. Start in the left-hand corner." }, { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": "M5", "length": "35m", "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "Pitch two heads towards an obvious off-width crack. Place your biggest cam high in this crack\r\nthen down climb 2m and out 2m onto the black slab.\r\nClimb this direct for 5m until you reach another crack. Start breathing again and continue upwards. Quite sustained\r\nfor the grade." }, { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": "M4", "length": "50m", "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "More climbing." }, { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": "M4", "length": "25m", "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "More climbing." }, { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": "M4", "length": "20m", "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "Continue to top and walk off." } ], "quality": 3, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": "A good test piece M5. Originally graded M7 by the first party to try this\nline who attempted to traverse in from Blow Up. Climbed during the height of\nthe GFC where the prices of many things were falling. Just like the GFC the\ngrade of this route took a tumble.", "ascent": "Daniel Joll, Danny Murphy, 2011" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/otago/the-remarkables/telecom-tower/saturday-morning-special/blow", "name": "Blow Up", "grade": "22,M8", "topo_ref": "26", "image": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/route/Blow%20Up.jpg?itok=HO0c5809", "images": [ { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/route/Blow%20Up.jpg?itok=HO0c5809", "height": "325", "width": "285" } ], "length": "35m", "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": "M8", "length": "35m", "bolts": null, "trad": true, "ewbank": "22", "description": "Up very steep hand crack on great holds with excellent\r\ngear. Double bolt belay with 30m rap to the ground.\r\nAn excellent route which is much steeper than it looks." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": true, "description": null, "ascent": "FFA: Daniel Joll, Cris Vanyo, 2011." }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/otago/the-remarkables/telecom-tower/saturday-morning-special/tri-nations", "name": "Tri Nations", "grade": "M5", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": "150m", "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": "M5", "length": "150m", "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "just to the right of Recessionary Downgrade; ascends \u2018a series of corners\u2019 on the right hand side of a \u2018prominent [ar\u00eate] before reaching the crest and following it for the final pitch;\u2019 Three pitches." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Ben Dare, Danny Murphy, Federico Callegari, August 2013" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/otago/the-remarkables/telecom-tower/saturday-morning-special/he-rangi-mokopuna", "name": "He rangi mokopuna", "grade": "M5", "topo_ref": null, "image": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/route/scapegoat_area_0.jpg?itok=QZwJXEGx", "images": [ { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/route/scapegoat_area_0.jpg?itok=QZwJXEGx", "height": "325", "width": "244" } ], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": "M5", "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "Corner line on wall left of scapegoat gully." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": "Same start as Tri-nations. P1: Groove/corner on left of snowy gully of\nscapegoat, into wide roofcrack. (#4 Camalot recommended). A hard pull into\nchimney on rattly chockstones.\nP2: Continue up groove/corner above, to right of arete. P3: traverse right\ninto distinctive V corner, climb to top. A cracker of a pitch", "ascent": "S Fortune, M Wilkinson" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/otago/the-remarkables/telecom-tower/saturday-morning-special/scape-goat", "name": "Scape Goat", "grade": "M4", "topo_ref": "28", "image": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/route/scapegoat_area.jpg?itok=b4tT5CmQ", "images": [ { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/route/scapegoat_area.jpg?itok=b4tT5CmQ", "height": "325", "width": "244" } ], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": "M4", "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "Gully system after prow of recessionary downgrade, just before ridge." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": "Start up easy gully, where it narrows, step left onto slab with small right\nfacing corner. Finish up steep blocky ground, or out right (easier).", "ascent": "Dave Bolger, Greg Larkin 2009" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/otago/the-remarkables/telecom-tower/saturday-morning-special/growling-dog", "name": "Growling Dog", "grade": "M5", "topo_ref": "29", "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": "M5", "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "Start up Gully of Scapegoat and move right under roof crack." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Dave Bolger, Greg Larkin, 2009." } ], "places": [], "image": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/wide/public/image/Saturday%20Morning%20Special_climbnz2.jpg?itok=RGxz42Wz", "images": [ { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/wide/public/image/Saturday%20Morning%20Special_climbnz2.jpg?itok=RGxz42Wz", "height": "483", "width": "580" }, { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/image/Blow%20Up.jpg?itok=GrQYhYop", "height": "325", "width": "285" }, { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/image/scapegoat_area.jpg?itok=YRXo2HAx", "height": "325", "width": "244" } ] }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/otago/the-remarkables/telecom-tower/los-indignados-wall", "name": "Los Indignados Wall", "altitude": null, "access": "From Queens Drive", "description": "Telecom Tower's Left Hand Side. Wall between gullys of MK, on left, to Friday's Fool and the Red Wall on the right.", "latlng": [ "-45.06242725", "168.8020134" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/otago/the-remarkables/telecom-tower/los-indignados-wall/gout-route", "name": "Gout Route", "grade": "M4", "topo_ref": null, "image": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/route/gout.jpg?itok=kfswldh7", "images": [ { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/route/gout.jpg?itok=kfswldh7", "height": "325", "width": "244" }, { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/route/gout2.jpg?itok=F8-ob5lW", "height": "325", "width": "244" } ], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": "M4", "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": null } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": "On the wide buttress between Scapegoat and MK. Start is just as you\ndescend to the Los Indignados area, up slabby area above and left of bottom\nof MK gully. Good rock belay in alcove to the right of climb. Top\npitch is avoidable by going right up obvious gully (probably M2) or left on\neasy snow to meet ridge, making it a good first mixed lead with similar\nclimbing to MK or Saturday Morning Special.\nPitch 1 - Slabby start leads to broken gully and then up long snow slope,\nheading right at top to good rock belay in alcove. M2/M3, 60m\nPitch 2 - Step left from belay into fun corner with excellent gear and a\ncouple of steeper steps. At top of gully, break left on slabby ground and\nonto wide easy angled snow above. First ascensionist belayed off a boulder in\nmiddle of snow field using a piton. May be easier to shorten this pitch and\nbelay at bottom of snowfield. M3, 55m\nPitch 3 - From belay, cross easy snowfield (on first ascent, party moved\ntogether here but could be pitched) and aim for obvious steep crack on ridge.\nGood rock belay on right of slab. Step left from belay up slab and then\nthrough off-width which become a crack at the top. Good gear and hooks all\nthe way but thin feet make it quite pumpy. A piton got left next to crux on\nfirst ascent which you may be glad to clip, otherwise a big cam would come in\nhandy. Fun pitch. Good spike belay on ridge. M4+, 20m (+40m of easy snow at\nstart)", "ascent": "Matt Wilkinson," }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/otago/the-remarkables/telecom-tower/los-indignados-wall/mk", "name": "MK", "grade": "M3", "topo_ref": "1", "image": null, "images": [], "length": "150m", "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": "M3", "length": "150m", "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "MK is the classic moderate route of the area. Generally climbed in 4 pitches.Climb the obvious gully before you reach the Telecom\r\nTower. Mainly on moderately angled snow with\r\nseveral small rocky mixed steps." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": "P1, Climb the obvious iced up gut. It can be difficult to find a belay at the\nend of the first 60m pitch, especially in big snow years. A snow stake may\nprove useful; a pink Tricam too. Otherwise it may be desirable for the second\nto simul-climb the first, easy snow slopes so the second can reach a large\nblock at the top of the first icefall (large cams).\nP2-3, The initial, narrow, often iced up choke of the climb (P1-2) is where\nthe main challenges lie, but the upper section can be climbed several\ndifferent ways to make it easier or more challenging. From the first broad\nsnowfield above the choke, the original route moves left up a short-mixed\nstep to gain another broad snowfield. The original rout continues up this\nsnowfield, but above this step, on the left wall there are two mixed lines\nthat continue to the top at around M4.\nAlternatively:\nFrom the top of the initial ice gully one can deviate to the right to a great\nbelay below a large chockstone roof feature. This roof can be passed via a\ncommitting but well protected move at about M4 to gain the upper snow field.\nIt can be easier in big snow years.\nP4, The upper headwall is split into three lines; the furthest right is the\noriginal easy ramble out, the central line (Coffee\u2019d Up) rarely forms and\nwhen it does, generally climbs at about M4, which can be unprotectable near\nthe top. The furthest left line climbs at about M3, is usually well protected\nbut often requires an exciting, sugar snow mantel to finish.\nThe start of this route is unsafe in warm conditions.", "ascent": "Andy Mills, Rupert Gardiner" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/otago/the-remarkables/telecom-tower/los-indignados-wall/walking-cat-aka-ridge-kunt", "name": "Walking the cat aka ridge Kunt", "grade": "M3", "topo_ref": "2", "image": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/route/dihedral.png?itok=5di5VMFQ", "images": [ { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/route/dihedral.png?itok=5di5VMFQ", "height": "244", "width": "325" } ], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": "M3", "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": null } ], "quality": 1, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": "Head right at first big patch of snow on MK (after approx 1 pitch/50\nm). Climb two rock steps to smaller snow patch and belay in crack under small\noverhang. Climb the nice, clean dihedral above the overhang, and then up a\nshort chimney(30-40m). Step left at top of chimney to belay in nice crack.\nFollow the small ridge towards the telecom tower on easier ground(70-80m).\nWell protected climbing on mostly sound rock. A good option if you find the\nMK gully to be to snowy. Good warm up for the area. Not sure about\nthe grading. One or two knifeblades can be handy.", "ascent": "Martine Frekhaug, Synne Bertelsen and Snorre Sulheim" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/otago/the-remarkables/telecom-tower/los-indignados-wall/primal-scream", "name": "Primal Scream", "grade": "M4", "topo_ref": "3", "image": null, "images": [], "length": "200m", "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": "M4", "length": "200m", "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": null } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": "Climb steep rock to right to MK, then break right into a narrow\ngully. Up big chockstone and corner.", "ascent": "Tony Burnell, Sally Ford and Michal Karnik 2012" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/otago/the-remarkables/telecom-tower/los-indignados-wall/fringe-encounter", "name": "Fringe Encounter", "grade": "M4", "topo_ref": "4", "image": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/routes/Fringe%20Encounter_1.jpg?itok=lRDNq3vQ", "images": [ { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/routes/Fringe%20Encounter_1.jpg?itok=lRDNq3vQ", "height": "244", "width": "325" } ], "length": "150m", "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": "M4", "length": "150m", "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "This route started 5m below and just right of MK and climbed a steep wall before moving around left and up on loose rock, well to the left of any bolted routes. Once surmounting a 3m blank wall of M4 difficulty it carried on up easy ground reaching the crest of a ridge that it then followed on more easy ground to a kind of a headwall.\r\nAlthough the headwall is passable on the right side we climbed down 20m of snow to the left of the ridge in order to reach a small ice step leading up through a narrow gap on the left side of the headwall. The narrow gap widened out into a snow gully with rock steps, trending right.\r\nOnce regaining the ridge crest either simply walk up the snowy RH finish of MK, or better still traverse right 20m and exit up into a mixed snow/rock gully that requires some bridging." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "P Dickson, L Wynne Aug 2012" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/otago/the-remarkables/telecom-tower/los-indignados-wall/stone-free", "name": "Stone Free", "grade": "18,M5", "topo_ref": "5", "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": "M5", "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": "18", "description": "40m up crack system left of E.T goes home. Finishes on a bollard left of\r\na flat ledge (rap anchor on RHS of\r\nflat ledge above pitch 2 of E.T goes home)." } ], "quality": 2, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "FFA: Rupert Gardiner, Dave Bolger 2006." }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/otago/the-remarkables/telecom-tower/los-indignados-wall/et-goes-home", "name": "E.T Goes Home", "grade": "19,M6", "topo_ref": "6", "image": null, "images": [], "length": "140m", "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": "M6", "length": "140m", "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": "19", "description": "Start up the right\r\ntending crack, towards the overhanging\r\ncorner belay 10m above the overhang." }, { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": "M5", "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": "17", "description": "Pitch 2, 35m, up easy crack\r\nto ledge, belay on the right, under\r\ncorner Double Bolt Belay." }, { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": "14", "description": "Pitch 3, 35m,\r\nup corner then traverse right through\r\nchimney block (rap bolts on back of\r\nblock don\u2019t belay here) climb ar\u00eate\r\nand crack 3m up to ledge (or go the\r\nchickens version and scramble around\r\nfurther right) belay off bollard." }, { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": "14", "description": "Pitch\r\n4, 55m, up crack to summit of pinnacle.\r\nRap anchor is on the left hand\r\nside." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "FFA: Steve Fortune, Kevin Barrett, Daniel Joll 2011." }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/otago/the-remarkables/telecom-tower/los-indignados-wall/couch-surfing", "name": "Couch Surfing", "grade": "19", "topo_ref": "7", "image": null, "images": [], "length": "80m", "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": "50m", "bolts": null, "trad": true, "ewbank": "16", "description": "Corner system 15m\r\nright of E.T Goes Home. Same first pitch as the system works. Pitch 1, up\r\nslightly chossy rock into excellent\r\ngrade 16 left facing corner to finish\r\nat bolted anchor of the second pitch\r\nof E.T Goes Home. This is the same first pitch as the system works." }, { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": "30m", "bolts": null, "trad": true, "ewbank": "19", "description": "Into steep corner. LEft of the system works chimney.\r\nClimb this then into steep face\r\ntending slightly left along crack line,\r\ntake Camalots to #4, finish at double\r\nbolt anchor same as rap point for E.T\r\nGoes Home. The slab on the second\r\npitch needs a good brush." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": true, "description": null, "ascent": "Danny Murphy, Daniel Joll, Al Uren, Priska Fluetsch 2011." }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/otago/the-remarkables/telecom-tower/los-indignados-wall/boys-dont-cry", "name": "Boys Don't Cry", "grade": "17,M6", "topo_ref": "10", "image": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/route/Ari%20Climbing.jpg?itok=3kjBEg92", "images": [ { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/route/Ari%20Climbing.jpg?itok=3kjBEg92", "height": "325", "width": "183" } ], "length": "150m", "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": "M6", "length": "150m", "bolts": null, "trad": true, "ewbank": "17", "description": "Start up the system works then head toward the obvious chimney with a chock stone high up. From here continue to the top of the buttress." } ], "quality": 2, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": true, "description": "Start as per The System Works. (basically the winter version of this route\ncontinuing onto the top of the wall) Instead of moving left head straight up\nthe chimney with an obvious chock stone M6 or grade 17 in summer. After\nfinishing pitch 2 head back left to join the ridge and the final three\npitches. The last three pitches are in common with E.t goes home and The\nsystem works.", "ascent": "FA Danny Murphy Daniel Joll Summer 17 (chimney pitch)" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/otago/the-remarkables/telecom-tower/los-indignados-wall/system-works", "name": "The System Works", "grade": "17", "topo_ref": "8", "image": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/route/IMG_0054.JPG?itok=0PoeL8fV", "images": [ { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/route/IMG_0054.JPG?itok=0PoeL8fV", "height": "244", "width": "325" }, { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/route/IMG_0012.JPG?itok=U_JKso-O", "height": "244", "width": "325" } ], "length": "35m", "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": "35m", "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": "17", "description": "From a ledge part way along State of the Nation,\r\nhead up clear, steep chimney, climbing out around chock stone and finish at the same bolted belay as the last\r\npitch of Couch Surfing. Use the 2nd rap anchor for E.T.\r\nGoes Home. Can be climbed from the ground, starting up\r\nCouch Surfing or by traversing in from the right." } ], "quality": 2, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": "Excellent winter route, Two pitches of sustained M5 climbing, followed by 3\nmore pitches to easier ground. Head up 50m to the ledge and bolted belay.\nThen bridge up the steep overhanging corner to belay at a ledge higher up.\nUp the face and wide crack M3, followed by and M4 pitch then easy ground to\nthe top of the Telecom Tower. An excellent route for those wanting to climb\na solid M5.", "ascent": "Danny Murphy, Daniel Joll, Al Uren, Priska Fluetsch 2011." }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/otago/the-remarkables/telecom-tower/los-indignados-wall/state-nation", "name": "State of the Nation", "grade": "M3", "topo_ref": "9", "image": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/route/P1080498.JPG?itok=CXoTp9vA", "images": [ { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/route/P1080498.JPG?itok=CXoTp9vA", "height": "244", "width": "325" } ], "length": "155m", "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": "M3", "length": "45m", "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "Start up chimney/corner system to left of Los Indegnados, belaying on snowfield to left of steep wall of LI." }, { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": "M2", "length": "35m", "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "Chimney on left side of steep blank looking wall." }, { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": "M4", "length": "75m", "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "Right hand corner exiting snowfield." } ], "quality": 3, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": "A great route taking a right leaning ramp, the easiest line through some\nsteep terrain. Start up chimney/corner system to left of Los Indegnados. The\nmost natural winter line in the area normally with ice and turf.", "ascent": "Rupert Gardiner, Niall Mueller 2009." }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/otago/the-remarkables/telecom-tower/los-indignados-wall/golden-potato", "name": "Golden Potato", "grade": "M6", "topo_ref": "13", "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": "M6", "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": null } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Jonno Clarke, Danny Murphy 2012" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/otago/the-remarkables/telecom-tower/los-indignados-wall/fried-potato", "name": "Fried Potato", "grade": "M6", "topo_ref": "FP", "image": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/routes/InkedTTower_LIM4_c.jpg?itok=dLkROqDz", "images": [ { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/routes/InkedTTower_LIM4_c.jpg?itok=dLkROqDz", "height": "325", "width": "300" }, { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/routes/PXL_20230624_005741785.jpg?itok=stR6rfU3", "height": "325", "width": "245" } ], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": "M6", "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": null } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": "Alternate Start to Golden Potato or Coddiwomple. Take the direct line through the overhanging corner. You may want a durable jacket to survive and awkward shoulder jams", "ascent": "James Warren, Michael lehmann, Lucy Chen" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/otago/the-remarkables/telecom-tower/los-indignados-wall/overdrive", "name": "Overdrive", "grade": "M5", "topo_ref": "OD", "image": null, "images": [], "length": "155m", "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": "M5", "length": "155m", "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": null } ], "quality": 2, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": "Start at the steep left angling corner in between Golden Potato and Fridays\nFool.\nPitch 1 (M5)- up slab to steep left angling corner, move right after corner\nto belay at bottom of right corner system not left corner system which is\nCouch potato\nPitch 2- (M5) Continue up awkward rock steps to belay at the base of a ice\ngully\npitch 3 (M4) - excellent climbing up ice gully continuing up corner with\nexcellent protection, step left around bulge and continue up right corner\npitch 4 (M4) - continue up corner and top out underneath slabs and left of\nbook of fools - from here we rappled into fridays fool and topped out , or\noption of climbing last pitch of book of fools", "ascent": "Gemma Wilson" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/otago/the-remarkables/telecom-tower/los-indignados-wall/los-indignados", "name": "Los Indignados", "grade": "21", "topo_ref": "11", "image": null, "images": [], "length": "70m", "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": "70m", "bolts": null, "trad": true, "ewbank": "17", "description": "Look for a cairn at the base of a hand\r\ncrack. Pitch 1: 17-15m. Pull over lip then up hand crack before\r\npulling onto ledge." }, { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": true, "ewbank": "18", "description": "Pitch 2: 18-35m. Belay left in break then\r\nmove right and up left facing corner on great rock." }, { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": true, "ewbank": "21", "description": "Pitch 3: 21,\r\n20m. Head up amazing buttress on great quality rock. Traverse in from left on ledge, then launch up thin crack. 5m\r\nbelow the rap anchor step right around ar\u00eate to good gear\r\nand easier terrain 20 (or head direct to the rap anchor using\r\nmicro cams 21)." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": true, "description": "Takes the spectacular dome-shaped blank looking headwall halfway up the\nbuttress.Can abseil 60m to ground from DBA on top of headwall. Reaching\nanchor can be tricky from ledge above, a short rap can be made from a thread\nabove ledge to gain anchors.", "ascent": "Daniel Joll, Steve Fortune, Kevin Barrett 2011." }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/otago/the-remarkables/telecom-tower/los-indignados-wall/los-indignados-direct", "name": "Los Indignados Direct", "grade": "M5", "topo_ref": "11d", "image": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/route/IMG_2177.JPG?itok=NqxvCYqy", "images": [ { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/route/IMG_2177.JPG?itok=NqxvCYqy", "height": "244", "width": "325" }, { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/route/P1080502.JPG?itok=KHLdLnGI", "height": "325", "width": "244" } ], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": "M5", "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "Start directly below left facing corner, This is the left most of the two clear open book corners) on RHS. Up slabby, corner then step right onto steep wall. Up to base of vertical buttress." }, { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": "M7", "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "Belay off the large chock stone base of the wall. Move 3m up snow slope above chock stone. Direct up thin seam (3 x #2 wires) through overhang to ledge. Traverse left, then up thin crack. When crack peters out, can finish direct to DB Belay, or traverse right to arete, place gear then up thin and runout slab. regular wires and double cams to 1. single #2. Save a .75 and 1 for your final pieces before the last run out to the anchor." }, { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": "M5", "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "From snowfield above, there are several options. Can I Sit On it, Flaming Gerbil, or State of Nation finishes. \r\nFlaming Gerbil Pitch: Continue up large chimney system exiting via RH offwidth (loose runout and scary). The best option for a hard day is to finish the final pitch of Can I sit on it. An excellent 30m M7. (full range of gear to #4 or 5 camalot)" } ], "quality": 3, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": "Takes the spectacular dome-shaped blank looking headwall halfway up the\nbuttress. Headwall is split by thin crack taking picks and small gear. Can\nabseil 60m to ground from DBA on top of headwall. Reaching anchor can be\ntricky from ledge above, a short rap can be made from a thread above ledge to\ngain anchors.", "ascent": "Daniel Joll, Steve Fortune 2012. escaping right before reaching the anchor M7" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/otago/the-remarkables/telecom-tower/los-indignados-wall/flaming-gerbil", "name": "Flaming Gerbil", "grade": "M5", "topo_ref": "12", "image": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/route/LI_FG.jpg?itok=TvIRV1OV", "images": [ { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/route/LI_FG.jpg?itok=TvIRV1OV", "height": "244", "width": "325" } ], "length": "60m", "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": "M5", "length": "60m", "bolts": null, "trad": true, "ewbank": null, "description": null } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": true, "description": "Above the Los Indignados Headwall is a snowfield, then a steep headwall.\nThere are a variety of exits. On the left is a wide square chimney. On the\nRHS of this chimney is a offwidth, known separately as the Flaming Gerbil\npitch. Steep, loose and exciting. Named after a felching session that went\nseriously wrong: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KNYl4aU0w0w", "ascent": "Steven Fortune, Daniel Joll, 2012" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/otago/the-remarkables/telecom-tower/los-indignados-wall/can-i-sit-it", "name": "Can I Sit On It", "grade": "21,WI3,M2", "topo_ref": "CISOI", "image": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/route/Dan%20final%20pitch.jpg?itok=zc2kQvEu", "images": [ { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/route/Dan%20final%20pitch.jpg?itok=zc2kQvEu", "height": "244", "width": "325" } ], "length": "150m", "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": "M2", "length": "150m", "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": "10", "description": "5 pitches. Around 40m left of Fridays Fool, start up easy\r\nleft tending slab 15m to double bolt anchor. Alternate winter start: 15m direct to DB Belay, M6." }, { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": "M4", "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": "15", "description": "Pitch 2, 35m, up\r\nclear corner grade 15." }, { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": "WI3", "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": "18", "description": "Pitch 3, an awesome open book corner\r\nfor 15m, grade 18, then continue up slab and belay high\r\non the right hand side." }, { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "Pitch 4, scramble for around 25m to the\r\nbase of a chimney. From here, State of the Nation follows\r\nthe right hand corner." }, { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": "M4", "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": "16", "description": "Pitch 5, head directly up the middle via\r\nsteep chimney, grade 16, 25m to the bottom of a steep\r\nfinger and hand crack. The final 5m was pretty wet, so\r\nthe pitch finished up on the left of the crack." }, { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": "M7", "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": "21", "description": "Take the left hand corner. The RH corner is the Flaming Gerbil. Starts thin then widens to hands to finally offwidth. Save a #2 or #1 to protect final moves (placed on the face out left) then move back into the offwidth to top out there are some small cams or large wires to protect the final moves to the anchors.Double Bolt\r\nBelay. To descend Rap 60m, then down climb a little, and with a short\r\nbelay reach the top of Los Indignados 60m rap from here\r\nto the ground." } ], "quality": 2, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "FFA: Danny Murphy, Daniel Joll, Al Uren, Priska Fluetsch 2011." }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/otago/the-remarkables/telecom-tower/los-indignados-wall/alternate-start-can-i-sit-it", "name": "Alternate start Can I Sit on It", "grade": "M6", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": "15m", "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": "M6", "length": "15m", "bolts": null, "trad": true, "ewbank": null, "description": "Look for the double bolt belay of Can I Sit on It. Directly below this head up steep overhanging ground for a short burly pitch." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": true, "description": "A short pitch, can be climbed as a direct start to Coddiwomple. first climbed on gear, subsequently retrobolted, 4 bolts no gear needed.", "ascent": "Jono Clarke Jaime Vinton Boot 2012" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/otago/the-remarkables/telecom-tower/los-indignados-wall/backpfeifengesicht", "name": "Backpfeifengesicht", "grade": "M6", "topo_ref": "13", "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": "M6", "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": true, "ewbank": null, "description": null } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": true, "description": "The wide crack to the left of State of the Nation through the headwall above\nLos Indignados. Quite loose at start. Needs numerous large cams and much\nappendage jamming.", "ascent": "S Fortune, D Joll, Aug 2016" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/otago/the-remarkables/telecom-tower/los-indignados-wall/coddiwomple", "name": "Coddiwomple", "grade": "M6", "topo_ref": "CW", "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": "M6", "length": null, "bolts": "4", "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": null } ], "quality": 3, "bolts": "4", "natural_pro": false, "description": "An asthetic corner leading to base of Los Indignados headwall with black wall\non RHS. Nice climbing, requires a committed approach, there are now 4 bolts but the lower climbing is still committing above gear and the turf climbing to the anchors is still a long runout.\nTake doubles of #3 , #2 , and #1 Camalots, singles down to small blue, and some small wires.\nThere is now a direct start, called \"Pilates\" which has 4 bolts. the name is because its short in duration but quite intense, and requires quite specific form to execute. steep and gymnastic. Grade M6 to be confirmed after successive ascents.", "ascent": "S Fortune, D Joll, Aug 2016" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/otago/the-remarkables/telecom-tower/los-indignados-wall/thug-life", "name": "Thug Life", "grade": "M5", "topo_ref": "TL", "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": "M5", "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": null } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": "After the first pitch of State of the Nation, climb straight up a chimney\nabove.", "ascent": "S Fortune, K Brown, 2015" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/otago/the-remarkables/telecom-tower/los-indignados-wall/any-man-dies-clean-sword", "name": "Any man dies with a clean sword", "grade": "M6", "topo_ref": "15", "image": null, "images": [], "length": "120m", "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": "M6", "length": "120m", "bolts": null, "trad": true, "ewbank": null, "description": "The big chimney and corner system (leftmost) corner system above the snow patch above los indignados direct" } ], "quality": 1, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": true, "description": "This is a pretty full on two pitch route followed by an easy snow climb to\nthe top of the Telecom Tower. Pitch 1 M6 27m After climbing up the snow slope\nabove los indignadous move up and left to belay at the base of a double crack\ncorner. Belay. P1 up the twin cracks starting right, moving left. From the\nledge move back right and around the corner with tricky moves to join the\nbase of the main chimney. Belay on a small stance under a little roof. P2\n6+ 30m move up and right being careful not to fall onto your belayer.\nChimney is a bit loose but provides great challenging climbing. exit via the\noverhang with thin feet. Belaying 10m above the roof where the round gets\neasier. P3 60m easy snow slope to top of telecom tower. Double set of cams\nGreen C3 - #4 C4. Single purple c3 single set of nuts.", "ascent": "Jono Clarke Daniel Joll" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/otago/the-remarkables/telecom-tower/los-indignados-wall/night-crawlers", "name": "Night Crawlers", "grade": "M6", "topo_ref": "NC", "image": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/route/NightCrawlers.jpg?itok=JGVjoYTq", "images": [ { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/route/NightCrawlers.jpg?itok=JGVjoYTq", "height": "244", "width": "325" } ], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": "M6", "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": true, "ewbank": null, "description": null } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": true, "description": "Start up State of the Nation, where that route turns up the chimney to the\nright, take the steep corner going straight up.", "ascent": "Lionel Clay, Merry Schimansky Aug 2017" } ], "places": [], "image": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/wide/public/image/telecom-tower_LI5.jpg?itok=aY6BZCOg", "images": [ { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/wide/public/image/telecom-tower_LI5.jpg?itok=aY6BZCOg", "height": "879", "width": "900" }, { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/image/InkedTTower_LIM4_c.jpg?itok=KI7NADO0", "height": "325", "width": "300" }, { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/image/TTower_LI_2.jpg?itok=enjx-d4x", "height": "325", "width": "204" }, { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/image/LI_upper3_1.jpg?itok=ROmhsw4U", "height": "244", "width": "325" }, { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/image/stone%20free.jpg?itok=n7vRVFaZ", "height": "244", "width": "325" } ] }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/otago/the-remarkables/telecom-tower/red-wall", "name": "Red Wall", "altitude": null, "access": "Along Queens Drive.", "description": "Directly below Telecom Tower, the Red Wall is a striking, steep, red coloured wall. Fridays Fool is classic ice line to left of Red Wall.", "latlng": [ "-45.06242725", "168.8020134" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/otago/the-remarkables/telecom-tower/red-wall/half-century-celebration", "name": "Half Century Celebration", "grade": "M6", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": "60m", "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": "M6", "length": "60m", "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "\u2018fairly run out\u2019 direct start to the left of Fridays Fool, limited gear, thin ice made some sections possible, 'a couple of spots with a minimum 10m run out between gear.\u2019" } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Allan Uren, Daniel Joll, August 2013" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/otago/the-remarkables/telecom-tower/red-wall/covfefe", "name": "Covfefe", "grade": "M4", "topo_ref": "57", "image": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/route/Covfefe.jpg?itok=-u-6L367", "images": [ { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/route/Covfefe.jpg?itok=-u-6L367", "height": "244", "width": "325" } ], "length": "55m", "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": "M4", "length": "30m", "bolts": null, "trad": true, "ewbank": null, "description": "Starts 10m left of book of Fools in snow gully section 2 pitches up Fridays Fool. Right facing corner 2 cracks left of book of fools corner." }, { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": "M5", "length": "25m", "bolts": null, "trad": true, "ewbank": null, "description": "Up a thin pick seam to roof/corner/flake feature. Absolute stonker of a pitch." } ], "quality": 2, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": true, "description": "A corner leading into a large flake system just left of Book of Fools exiting\nFridays Fool gully.", "ascent": "S Fortune, P Harris, Aug 2017" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/otago/the-remarkables/telecom-tower/red-wall/only-fools-and-horses", "name": "Only Fools and Horses", "grade": "M5", "topo_ref": "57b", "image": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/route/OnlyFools.JPG?itok=HFpa07ef", "images": [ { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/route/OnlyFools.JPG?itok=HFpa07ef", "height": "244", "width": "325" } ], "length": "40m", "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": "M5", "length": "40m", "bolts": null, "trad": true, "ewbank": null, "description": "Crack to left of Book of Fools and right of Covfefe. Good gear, thin hooking in seam at crux." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": true, "description": "The crackline immediately left of Book of Fools, coming out of snow basin\nabove ice pitches of Friday's Fool. Can rap from above this pitch back to\nFridays Fool Gully and do all 3 routes (Book of Fools, Only Fools and Horses,\nand Covfefe)", "ascent": "Lionel Clay, Steven Fortune June 2018" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/otago/the-remarkables/telecom-tower/red-wall/book-fools", "name": "Book of Fools", "grade": "M5", "topo_ref": "56", "image": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/route/P1070279.JPG?itok=YBFf3qlk", "images": [ { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/route/P1070279.JPG?itok=YBFf3qlk", "height": "244", "width": "325" } ], "length": "80m", "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": "M5", "length": "80m", "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "Starts on Fridays Fool. From the base of the snow gully at the start of the third pitch head up the large obvious corner on the lefthand side. This is sustained for approximately 40m before the angle relents and 40m of easier ground leads to the ridge." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Steven Fortune, Daniel Joll, 2012" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/otago/the-remarkables/telecom-tower/red-wall/fridays-fool", "name": "Fridays Fool", "grade": "WI3,M4", "topo_ref": "54", "image": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/route/P1020310.JPG?itok=s_nnxzwX", "images": [ { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/route/P1020310.JPG?itok=s_nnxzwX", "height": "325", "width": "244" }, { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/routes/7802a08550cd97413926733e8e26681eec4673f4.jpg?itok=fuvdndsD", "height": "325", "width": "244" } ], "length": "200m", "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": "WI3", "mixed": "M4", "length": "200m", "bolts": null, "trad": true, "ewbank": null, "description": null } ], "quality": 3, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": true, "description": "The classic ice route of the face. The corner/gully to the left of the Red\nWall. The first pitch is often thinly iced corner.\nFour pitches, with bolted belays at end of first two. Conditions can vary\ndramatically depending on the amount of ice present, especially on the first\ntwo pitches. Generally take a single set of cams (up to Camalot #3) and wires,\nand 2-3 ice screws. An absolute classic.", "ascent": "Steve Carr, Mark McCaughan, 1998" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/otago/the-remarkables/telecom-tower/red-wall/fridays-fool-right-hand-exit", "name": "Fridays Fool Right Hand Exit", "grade": "M4", "topo_ref": "55", "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": "M4", "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "Branches right during the third pitch and angles up onto the big ledge below the Telecom Tower, before traversing right again to finish up to the left of the Clearances (face)." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Andy Macfarlane, Des Smith, 2000" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/otago/the-remarkables/telecom-tower/red-wall/party-line", "name": "Party Line", "grade": null, "topo_ref": "50", "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": "Climb the edge of the gully up to a ledge then step out rightwards onto the face and and move right to a belay in the middle of the face. Then three variations exist going at 16, 19, and 22 with a mix of bolts and trad gear.\nThe first pitch has been climbed in winter at M6.", "ascent": "Variation 1 (16): Dave Brash; Variation 2 (19): Steve Carr; Variation 3 (22): Andy Macfarlane." }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/otago/the-remarkables/telecom-tower/red-wall/%EF%BB%BFunder-pressure", "name": "\ufeffUnder Pressure", "grade": "M8", "topo_ref": "46", "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": "M8", "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": true, "ewbank": null, "description": null } ], "quality": 3, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": true, "description": "A striking thin crack splitting a steep wall above a roof, this is a classic\ndrytooling pitch. Originally climbed by traversing from the left above a\nblock, the block has since fallen away. A new start has been climbed\nutilising a thin seam to traverse from the left, with 1 bolt to protect, at\nsame grade as original. Once in the crack, can protect well with small wires\nand micro-cams,", "ascent": "Original ascent: Daniel Joll, Jamie Vinton-Boot, 2011" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/otago/the-remarkables/telecom-tower/red-wall/under-pressure-extended", "name": "Under Pressure extended", "grade": "M8", "topo_ref": "48", "image": null, "images": [], "length": "232m", "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": "M8", "length": "25m", "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "Pitch 1, M8, 25m." }, { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": "M6", "length": "12m", "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "M6+, 12m. Short pitch up and right followng bolts to DBA." }, { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": "M5", "length": "40m", "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "Pitch 3, M5, 40m. Up cracks to left of anchor, then corner to left of roof." }, { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": "M5", "length": "50m", "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "Pitch 4, M5,\r\n50m. Up crest" }, { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": "M5", "length": "35m", "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "Pitch 5, M5+, 35m. Up crest." }, { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": "M4", "length": "20m", "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "Pitch 6, M4, 20m" }, { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": "M6", "length": "50m", "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "Pitch 7, M6, 50m From crest of ridge, traverse left on ledge and climb offwidth to left of tower." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": "The line has subsequently been extended by six additional pitches to now top\nout on the summit of the Telecom Tower.", "ascent": "Alex Corpas, Steven Fortune, Daniel Joll, 2012" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/otago/the-remarkables/telecom-tower/red-wall/under-pressure-direct", "name": "Under Pressure Direct", "grade": "M10", "topo_ref": null, "image": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/routes/228948886_4115013055278639_7974252241782624958_n.jpg?itok=u1yBrjZp", "images": [ { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/routes/228948886_4115013055278639_7974252241782624958_n.jpg?itok=u1yBrjZp", "height": "325", "width": "244" } ], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": "M10", "length": null, "bolts": "1", "trad": true, "ewbank": null, "description": null } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": "1", "natural_pro": true, "description": "Direct start to Under Pressure, over the roof.", "ascent": "FFA placing gear, Jonno Clarke, 2021" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/otago/the-remarkables/telecom-tower/red-wall/no-pressure", "name": "No Pressure", "grade": "M7", "topo_ref": null, "image": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/routes/230364363_4125979217515356_1262589984500034938_n.jpg?itok=eLgDm-Lv", "images": [ { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/routes/230364363_4125979217515356_1262589984500034938_n.jpg?itok=eLgDm-Lv", "height": "325", "width": "244" } ], "length": "17m", "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": "M7", "length": "17m", "bolts": "4", "trad": true, "ewbank": null, "description": "From large flake, step up wall to right, climbing awesome series of thin seams into corner. Step left to cross roof with long, precise moves. On slab, step left to belay." } ], "quality": 2, "bolts": "4", "natural_pro": true, "description": "On wall, left of double happy, crossing chossy roof/corner.\n4 bolts, med wire red c3 and #0.75 c4 or equivalent", "ascent": "FFA James Hobson, Aug 2021" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/otago/the-remarkables/telecom-tower/red-wall/double-happy", "name": "Double Happy", "grade": "22", "topo_ref": "51", "image": null, "images": [], "length": "70m", "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": "70m", "bolts": "5", "trad": true, "ewbank": "22", "description": null } ], "quality": 3, "bolts": "5", "natural_pro": true, "description": "Follow line of bolts to the left of Tom Thumb and set a belay under the roof. Out through the roof and up to clip the last three bolts of Party Line\u2019s 3rd variation.", "ascent": "Steve Carr, Simon Kennedy, 2000" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/otago/the-remarkables/telecom-tower/red-wall/tom-thumb", "name": "Tom Thumb", "grade": "20,M7", "topo_ref": "52", "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": "M7", "length": null, "bolts": "9", "trad": false, "ewbank": "20", "description": "2 pitches. The line finishes at the top\r\nof Red Wall and requires a 60m rappel\r\nto the ground. The crux is on the\r\nlower pitch and is followed by a nice\r\nM4 corner crack to some run out slab\r\nclimbing, before veering left at the\r\ntop of the crack to finish at Red Wall\r\nrappel station. The first pitch was established as a rock route on gorgeous stone and should not be attacked and destroyed with ice tools." } ], "quality": 2, "bolts": "9", "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "FFA: Steve Carr, Dave Brash, Andy MacFarlane, 2000." }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/otago/the-remarkables/telecom-tower/red-wall/romper-stomper", "name": "Romper Stomper", "grade": "15", "topo_ref": "53", "image": null, "images": [], "length": "30m", "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": "30m", "bolts": null, "trad": true, "ewbank": "15", "description": "To right of Red Wall. Climb to comfy ledge beside left arete." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": true, "description": null, "ascent": "Dave Brash, Steve Carr, 2000" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/otago/the-remarkables/telecom-tower/red-wall/burn-baby-burn", "name": "Burn, Baby, Burn", "grade": "16", "topo_ref": "47", "image": null, "images": [], "length": "70m", "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": "70m", "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": "16", "description": "Starts out up the ar\u00eate from the top of Romper Stomper." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Steve Carr, Andy MacFarlane, 2000" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/otago/the-remarkables/telecom-tower/red-wall/fastest-indianindian-summer", "name": "Fastest Indian/Indian Summer", "grade": "18,M5", "topo_ref": "62", "image": null, "images": [], "length": "200m", "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": "M5", "length": "200m", "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": "18", "description": null } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": "The classic 'V\" groove to right of Red Wall. The first two pitches were\ninitially climbed in winter at M5+. (Fastest Indian)\nThe route was finished to the top of the Telecom Tower in summer. (Indian\nSummer)\nClassic climbing either way.", "ascent": "FWA, 1.5 pitches (Fastest Indian) Kester Brown, Jono Clark 2006" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/otago/the-remarkables/telecom-tower/red-wall/indian-summer-variant", "name": "Indian Summer Variant", "grade": "22", "topo_ref": "63", "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": "22", "description": "A steep hand crack variation to the original line. Unclimbed\r\nin winter." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Reece Doyle" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/otago/the-remarkables/telecom-tower/red-wall/project", "name": "Project", "grade": "24,M8", "topo_ref": "58", "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": "M8", "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": "24", "description": "Left side of the face up 5m no gear\r\nthen reach a good thin seam direct to\r\ntop of buttress will be hard and scary\r\nat the start probably at 23-24 or M8." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": null } ], "places": [], "image": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/wide/public/image/Fridays%20Fool.jpg?itok=oSikWTAP", "images": [ { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/wide/public/image/Fridays%20Fool.jpg?itok=oSikWTAP", "height": "700", "width": "336" }, { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/image/Red%20Wall_0.jpg?itok=UIKn22oO", "height": "325", "width": "289" }, { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/image/Right%20Red%20Wall-Clearances%20Wall.jpg?itok=rae69AGW", "height": "318", "width": "325" } ] }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/otago/the-remarkables/telecom-tower/clearances", "name": "Clearances", "altitude": null, "access": "Queens Drive.", "description": "Backside of Telecom Tower, wall to right of Red Wall", "latlng": [ "-45.06242725", "168.8020134" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/otago/the-remarkables/telecom-tower/clearances/add", "name": "A.D.D.", "grade": "15", "topo_ref": "64", "image": null, "images": [], "length": "200m", "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": "200m", "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": "15", "description": "5 pitches. Start up the clear crack system approximately 50m\r\nright of the FI. The first pitch follows\r\nthe crack until an obvious ledge. P2\r\nsteps left and goes up a right facing\r\ncorner onto a section of slab to a\r\nbelay at the base of a turf filled left\r\nfacing corner. Climb to the FI ledge.\r\nCross right over the Clearances gully\r\nto the base of the clean looking buttress.\r\nHead up a crack system on the\r\nLH side, this can be climbed as two\r\nshorter pitches or one long pitch. For\r\nthe final 7m head direct up the slab\r\nrather than the easy gully to your\r\nleft." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Danny Murphy, Daniel Joll, Anna Ruotsi, 2011." }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/otago/the-remarkables/telecom-tower/clearances/sad-add-winter-variation", "name": "S.A.D (A.D.D. Winter Variation)", "grade": null, "topo_ref": "65", "image": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/route/IMG_2320.JPG?itok=Azeq8rF_", "images": [ { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/route/IMG_2320.JPG?itok=Azeq8rF_", "height": "244", "width": "325" } ], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "Up pitch 1 of ADD (slabby, thin M5+). Continue directly up this crack system, following a wide crack onto a ramp into Clearances gully on pitch 3. Move up and left, exiting via spectacular final pitch of Indian Summer. (M6+)" } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Steve Fortune, Milo Gilmore, 2012." }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/otago/the-remarkables/telecom-tower/clearances/clearances", "name": "The Clearances", "grade": "M4", "topo_ref": "66", "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": "M4", "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "Follows the first obvious gully right of the Fastest Indian/\r\nIndian Summer. Climb featured mixed ground, which can\r\nbe iced depending on conditions, until the angle relents\r\nand transitions into a snow gully leading until the prominent\r\nledge below the Telecom Tower. From here move rightwards beneath the overhang and directly up the rock wall above (crux) into solid ice flow to ridge. Route doesn't go rightwards to ridge as shown in guide photo." } ], "quality": 3, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Andy Macfarlane, Mark McCaughan, Steve Carr, 2000." }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/otago/the-remarkables/telecom-tower/clearances/clearances-direct", "name": "The Clearances Direct", "grade": "M5", "topo_ref": "67", "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": "M5", "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "A direct finish to the original route which climbs two pitches\r\nup the upper gully from the big ledge direct through\r\nthe overhangs." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Danny Murphy, Anna Ruotsi, 2011." }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/otago/the-remarkables/telecom-tower/clearances/royal-blood", "name": "Royal Blood", "grade": "M6", "topo_ref": "67a", "image": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/route/IMG_0626.JPG?itok=RVeaTl_o", "images": [ { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/route/IMG_0626.JPG?itok=RVeaTl_o", "height": "325", "width": "325" }, { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/route/P8111807.JPG?itok=mC16yRgE", "height": "325", "width": "244" } ], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": "M6", "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "Starts in the steep corner with two small overhangs just up the snow gully right of The Clearances. Follows a series of steep corners, broken up by snow ledges and ramps for three pitches. The fourth pitch climbs the wall just to the right of the final pitch of The Clearances, joining that route just below the final ice section." } ], "quality": 2, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Ben Dare, Kester Brown, Aug 11, 2015" } ], "places": [], "image": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/wide/public/image/Telecom%20Tower_0.jpg?itok=D_a2Wtwj", "images": [ { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/wide/public/image/Telecom%20Tower_0.jpg?itok=D_a2Wtwj", "height": "288", "width": "900" }, { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/image/Right%20Red%20Wall-Clearances%20Wall_0_0.jpg?itok=fOOasneA", "height": "318", "width": "325" } ] }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/otago/the-remarkables/telecom-tower/the-notch", "name": "The Notch", "altitude": null, "access": null, "description": "Backside of Telecom Tower, access from Queens Drive.", "latlng": [ "-45.06242725", "168.8020134" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/otago/the-remarkables/telecom-tower/the-notch/notch-route", "name": "The Notch Route", "grade": null, "topo_ref": "69", "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "An easy angled snow gully which provides\r\naccess to Telecom Tower ridge." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": null }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/otago/the-remarkables/telecom-tower/the-notch/yeah-yeah-nah-yeah", "name": "Yeah, Yeah, Nah, Yeah", "grade": "M5", "topo_ref": "69a", "image": null, "images": [], "length": "70m", "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": "M5", "length": "70m", "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "2 pitches; 'Starts down and to the right of the easy snow gully (route 69 on the guide) to the right of The Clearances. Head up the most obvious/clean, steep corner. Some climbing on the right hand face and some climbing on the corner. Over small bulge onto short, steep snow gully to belay on top of this. From belay head straight up the next corner, and climb the tricky start til corner ends in an small steep section. Step right onto arete, and up the step, before stepping left into new corner that leads to the top of this buttress onto the easy snow gully (route 69). The snow gully will provide you with easy terrain to reach the notch or alternatively with a fast walk/rap off. Both pitches about 30-35m with sustained, hard, but well protected climbing. Grade around M5. Highly recommendedif you are tired of making track up snow gullies.'" } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "FA Snorre Sulheim, Gon Nido, Martine Frekhaug, 2013." }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/otago/the-remarkables/telecom-tower/the-notch/enforcer", "name": "The Enforcer", "grade": "M3", "topo_ref": "70", "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": "M3", "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "A left to right leading route, which follows easy mixed\r\nground to top out at the notch." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Dave Bolger, Rupert Gardiner, 2004" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/otago/the-remarkables/telecom-tower/the-notch/little-jono-frostbite", "name": "Little Jono Frostbite", "grade": "M5", "topo_ref": "LJF", "image": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/route/TheNotch_LJF.jpg?itok=GINMR5Tc", "images": [ { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/route/TheNotch_LJF.jpg?itok=GINMR5Tc", "height": "325", "width": "262" } ], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": "M5", "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": null } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": "On clean buttress to right of Notch.\nStart up Enforcer. Climb 2 50m access pitches to base of clean buttress on\nright of Notch gully.\nStart up right facing corner, traverse rightwards up to underneath obvious\nroof. Climb out roof to right. Follow thin face crack into wide crack. Where\nwide crack angles left, branch off to beautiful right angling pick seam\ntowards block. Mantle and belay. Final pitch straightforward to top.\nTotal Classic 3rd pitch, M5+", "ascent": "Conor Smith, Merry Schimanski 27th Aug 2016" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/otago/the-remarkables/telecom-tower/the-notch/precariat", "name": "The Precariat", "grade": "M5", "topo_ref": "PR", "image": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/route/The%20Notch_%20Precariat1_prol.jpg?itok=hhFxMhba", "images": [ { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/route/The%20Notch_%20Precariat1_prol.jpg?itok=hhFxMhba", "height": "325", "width": "217" }, { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/route/ThePrecariat.jpg?itok=-iot1rod", "height": "325", "width": "244" }, { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/route/ThePrecariat%20P3.jpg?itok=p2SS-Nj2", "height": "325", "width": "244" }, { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/routes/TheNotch_ThePrecariat_prol_0.jpg?itok=ixhBmp91", "height": "244", "width": "325" } ], "length": "120m", "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": "M5", "length": "45m", "bolts": null, "trad": true, "ewbank": null, "description": "P1: Traverse under first steep buttress to 2nd nice crack. Climb to ledge system. (FA S Fortune)\r\nThe alternative 1st crack is a bit harder and more awkward (FA Rose Pearson)" }, { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": "M8", "length": "45m", "bolts": null, "trad": true, "ewbank": null, "description": "P2 Awesome crack system on right of wall. Thin precarious climbing the whole way, crux offwidth bulge at top, a #5 camalot useful to protect. (#4 adequate). FFA Jonno Clarke. The right leaning crack/ramp to left finishes at same point, is easier and looser (FA J Clark)." }, { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": "M7", "length": "30m", "bolts": null, "trad": true, "ewbank": null, "description": "P3. Up awesome steep offwidth angling left. Pumpy can openers and strenuous bridging. FA Merry Shirmanski\r\nAlternative exit up chimney to right. Some loose rock. (FA S Fortune). Alternate, alternative exit: Can traverse snow ledge to left (Traverse of the Dogs M1, FA D Joll) then easily up ridge." } ], "quality": 3, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": true, "description": "A line up steep cracks on buttress to right of the Notch.\nStart up snowy gully of Equinox to gain buttress.\n3 pitches of superb, technical climbing.\nEach pitch finishes at ledges and alternatives exist and have been climbed at different times, the best combination is described.\nDouble rack up to #4 Camalot required, 1 x #5 recommended.", "ascent": "FA: S Fortune, K Ladiges" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/otago/the-remarkables/telecom-tower/the-notch/equinox", "name": "Equinox", "grade": "M5", "topo_ref": "72", "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": "M5", "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "Climb the steep mixed gully on the right hand side of the\r\nfirst pinnacle after the notch." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Tony Burnell, Sally Ford, Aaron Ford, 2009." }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/otago/the-remarkables/telecom-tower/the-notch/principals-daughter", "name": "The Principal's Daughter", "grade": "M5", "topo_ref": "TPD", "image": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/routes/1511412_10152514033731068_2294232612923745747_n.jpg?itok=QGGlzV9s", "images": [ { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/routes/1511412_10152514033731068_2294232612923745747_n.jpg?itok=QGGlzV9s", "height": "244", "width": "325" }, { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/routes/10494532_10152514033596068_2588189585299771493_n.jpg?itok=JngmZh_l", "height": "325", "width": "244" } ], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": "M5", "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "P1: Start in a crack which leads through an overhanging pyramid. This pitch can be avoided by climbing in from the left." }, { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": "M3", "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "P2: Through corner system." }, { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": "M3", "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "P3: Up slabs angling right and through cool chimney/tunnel feature." }, { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": "M5", "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "P4: Through roof crack below triangle shaped roof straight above belay, swinging left to a technical \r\ncorner. RAD!" } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": "A good fun, varied route with a stellar final pitch.\nDescend by traversing back north to the Shadow Basin.", "ascent": "Steve Skelton, Ben Dare, Adam Carlson" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/otago/the-remarkables/telecom-tower/the-notch/searching-inspiration", "name": "Searching for Inspiration", "grade": "M4", "topo_ref": "73", "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": "M4", "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": null } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Ben Dare, 2012." }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/otago/the-remarkables/telecom-tower/the-notch/espirit", "name": "Espirit", "grade": "M6", "topo_ref": "ESP", "image": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/route/espirit.jpg?itok=RVol4Z_B", "images": [ { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/route/espirit.jpg?itok=RVol4Z_B", "height": "244", "width": "325" } ], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": "M6", "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "Up steep crack corner. Good gear, poor feet, excellent, technical pitch, M6+" } ], "quality": 3, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": "A quality steep corner line up immaculate rock on the left side of the top of\nthe notch. Easily accessed from the ridge as a 2nd route. It is possible, but\ntedious to traverse to the top of Telecom Tower, a short abseil to descend is\neasier.", "ascent": "Janette Hueng, Steven Fortune Aug 2016" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/otago/the-remarkables/telecom-tower/the-notch/shoot-thrill", "name": "Shoot to Thrill", "grade": "M6", "topo_ref": "S2T", "image": null, "images": [], "length": "60m", "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": "M6", "length": "60m", "bolts": null, "trad": true, "ewbank": null, "description": "Obvious deep v groove coming out of notch. Starts as offwidth, finishing as chimney. One abseil required off backside." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": true, "description": null, "ascent": "Ben Dare 2012 with a fall and points of aid." }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/otago/the-remarkables/telecom-tower/the-notch/maximum-security", "name": "Maximum Security", "grade": "M5", "topo_ref": null, "image": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/route/B_telecom_maximum_security_crop_0.jpg?itok=RDvrW6ol", "images": [ { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/route/B_telecom_maximum_security_crop_0.jpg?itok=RDvrW6ol", "height": "325", "width": "192" }, { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/route/B_start.jpg?itok=dcn3Byk9", "height": "325", "width": "244" }, { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/route/B2.jpg?itok=G4EFWuT_", "height": "183", "width": "325" }, { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/route/B3.jpg?itok=IrHSJir_", "height": "183", "width": "325" } ], "length": "160m", "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": "M5", "length": "40m", "bolts": null, "trad": true, "ewbank": null, "description": "(M4+ sustained) Fantastic pitch of technical stemming on thin edges and rattly hooks in the fist-sized crack at back of corner. Well-protected throughout and the occasional jam for a breather. At the rooflet exit right and belay on a little jutting snow ledge that is walled in from two sides and seems to continue round to the steep snow at right." }, { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": "50m", "bolts": null, "trad": true, "ewbank": null, "description": "Don't follow the ledge but boulder up from your stance and wade onto the Notches superhighway. Cut straight across and up the steepest part of the slope trending left. If snow is a bit spooky get some gear in at each of the rock steps. At the final rock barrier, belay under two prominent sharp beaks that marks the spine of the main buttress (see photo- there is nothing further left but open space)." }, { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": "M5", "length": "40m", "bolts": null, "trad": true, "ewbank": null, "description": "(M5 crux) Overhanging right-leaning corner about 5m high. Torque to glory on bomber pick and nut placements. Pray for ice on the lip as you haul/mantle over and scratch around for a possible 0.3 camalot or piton placement. Follow moderately angled groove with very sparse pro but decent ice (even in a lean year). To the left be nothing but blank slabs and that then drop away to the Telecom tower. Follow groove as it trends to the right until a small cave and a good belay among the broken blocks just past it." }, { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": "M4", "length": "30m", "bolts": null, "trad": true, "ewbank": null, "description": "(M4 crux) A few metres above the belay is a weird moderately angled chimney inside a giant flake (see photo). Keep this to your right and instead march into a corridor sized slot higher up with some gear at the back. The right wall of this slot is a steepish corroded slab about 10m high that takes nuts with some imagination. Delicate moves get you to an easy scramble to ridge. Exit: Traverse left along ridge 50m to find hidden platform behind Telecom Tower. Rap off flake and pull really hard to get your rope down!" } ], "quality": 2, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": true, "description": "Exciting moves over diverse terrain and good gear (yes, tricams). Start: On\nQueen's Drive walk past the Clearances and the Notch snow gully and around\nthe lowest point of buttress. You will be out of sight of those routes but\ncan see the face further south. Look up for a broad 90 degree corner cut off\nat the bottom (see photo. There is a topo attached but it gets more\napproximate for each pitch).", "ascent": "FA Mic Cavazzini, Dave Goldie, Aug 2017" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/otago/the-remarkables/telecom-tower/the-notch/split-ambitions", "name": "Split Ambitions", "grade": "M4", "topo_ref": "SA", "image": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/routes/IMG_6889.JPG?itok=nklcNr1C", "images": [ { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/routes/IMG_6889.JPG?itok=nklcNr1C", "height": "325", "width": "244" }, { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/routes/D0AA3C9F-C65C-4166-8060-66584386EE17.JPG?itok=NwdcT3f-", "height": "325", "width": "264" } ], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": "M4", "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "Pitch one (M4, 50m) climbs the direct line to a good belay just below an obvious off-width face crack. There is an unclimbed (as of yet) variant to the left which would likely be the same grade to reach the same belay." }, { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": "M5", "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "Pitch two climbs the rad, obvious line with great hooks on the face to the right. Above this the line above is not well protected and it is best to step right, then to the top (M5+, 60m)." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": "A good punchy route, with two long pitches. Great for a short, athletic adventure in the alpine. Descend off the back by walking back north to Shadow Basin.\nThis climb is right of the Notch Route about 50m. It starts up the snow gully to the right of the overhanginging pyramid which marks the start of The Principal\u2019s Daughter. The snow gully can be soloed for approximately 60m.", "ascent": "Kyle Ryan Walter, Steve Skelton - June 2019" } ], "places": [], "image": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/wide/public/image/The%20Notch_Marked5.jpg?itok=gESielTt", "images": [ { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/wide/public/image/The%20Notch_Marked5.jpg?itok=gESielTt", "height": "480", "width": "573" } ] }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/otago/the-remarkables/telecom-tower/searching-for-sumo-buttress", "name": "Searching for Sumo Buttress", "altitude": null, "access": null, "description": "Access from Queens Drive, between Telecom Tower and Double Cone.", "latlng": [ "-45.06418536", "168.80536079" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/otago/the-remarkables/telecom-tower/searching-for-sumo-buttress/flying-circus", "name": "Flying Circus", "grade": "M5", "topo_ref": "75", "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": "M5", "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "Deep corner left of IiB to snow ledge, continue direct onto\r\nrib, left hand edge of corner, finish up headwall." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Ben Dare, Roman Nelson, 2012." }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/otago/the-remarkables/telecom-tower/searching-for-sumo-buttress/ignorance-bliss", "name": "Ignorance is Bliss", "grade": null, "topo_ref": "76", "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "M4+. Start up corner left of S4S, traverse right under overhang.\r\nFollow slopey corners up center of buttress." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Reg Measures, Neil, 2012." }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/otago/the-remarkables/telecom-tower/searching-for-sumo-buttress/searching-sumo", "name": "Searching for Sumo", "grade": ", ,", "topo_ref": "77", "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "M5+. 5 Pitches. Follows a vague ridge with many options for\r\neither bailing or moving left or right to easier ground.\r\nTo get the full tick each time you arrive at a variation or\r\ncrack system take the steepest option." }, { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": true, "ewbank": null, "description": "Pitches 2 and 3\r\nalso have some hard moves on good gear." }, { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "The final pitch is\r\nan excellent 50m steep corner which is accessed by down\r\nclimbing 15m from the top of pitch 4. As with lower\r\ndown there are easier variations on both the left and right\r\nhand sides of the final pitch." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": true, "description": null, "ascent": "Daniel Joll, Craig Jefferies, 2011." }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/otago/the-remarkables/telecom-tower/searching-for-sumo-buttress/project", "name": "Project", "grade": null, "topo_ref": "78", "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "Summer or winter climb the ridge direct starting at the\r\nleft hand toe. This would avoid most of the difficulties of\r\nSearching for Sumo." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": null } ], "places": [], "image": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/wide/public/image/Searching%204S.jpg?itok=xQLoSlgc", "images": [ { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/wide/public/image/Searching%204S.jpg?itok=xQLoSlgc", "height": "602", "width": "571" }, { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/image/DSC02900.JPG?itok=VX5csVa2", "height": "244", "width": "325" } ] } ], "image": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/wide/public/image/telecom%20tower-1st%20section.jpg?itok=EexUH46y", "images": [ { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/wide/public/image/telecom%20tower-1st%20section.jpg?itok=EexUH46y", "height": "675", "width": "900" }, { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/image/SMS-labelled.jpg?itok=-MaQeY2L", "height": "244", "width": "325" }, { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/image/Telecom%20Tower4.jpg?itok=L-K2zPRo", "height": "104", "width": "325" } ] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/c58dhau-landsborough/ben-ohau-range/mackenzies-pk": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/c58dhau-landsborough/ben-ohau-range/mackenzies-pk", "name": "Mackenzies Pk", "altitude": "2200m", "access": null, "description": null, "latlng": [ "-44.035", "170.0314" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/%C5%8Dhau-landsborough/ben-ohau-range/mackenzies-pk/duncan-stream", "name": "From Duncan Stream", "grade": "1,I", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": "1", "commitment": "I", "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": null } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": "Easily accessible from the south from the head of Duncan basin, or by crossing the intermediate range at the head of Boundary Stream and sidling past the large tarn at 1335m in upper Duncan Stream.", "ascent": "First ascent unknown" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/%C5%8Dhau-landsborough/ben-ohau-range/mackenzies-pk/irishman-stream", "name": "From Irishman Stream", "grade": "1,I", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": "1", "commitment": "I", "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": null } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": "Irishman Stream provides rapid direct access to the peak.", "ascent": "First ascent unknown" } ], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/otago/huxley-range/celtic-pk": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/otago/huxley-range/celtic-pk", "name": "Celtic Pk", "altitude": "2198m", "access": null, "description": "TBA", "latlng": [ "-44.2371516519", "169.531275926" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/otago/huxley-range/celtic-pk/south-west-ridge", "name": "South West Ridge", "grade": "1", "topo_ref": null, "image": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/route/celtic.jpg?itok=-cGZ7Uny", "images": [ { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/route/celtic.jpg?itok=-cGZ7Uny", "height": "215", "width": "325" } ], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "1", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": null } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": "Easy travel along the ridge over 2054m to reach the summit pyramid. A gully,\nthen left ramp lead to easy ground and the summit. Descent to the north to\nreach the tarn at 1750m.", "ascent": "Ross Cullen, Pip Lynch, April 2007" } ], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/westland/butler-range/point-2198": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/westland/butler-range/point-2198", "name": "Pt 2198", "altitude": "2198m", "access": null, "description": "na", "latlng": [ "-43.443821", "170.411682" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/westland/butler-range/point-2198/west-ridge", "name": "West Ridge", "grade": "1+", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "1+", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "From the lower Barrowman Valley, scramble up onto this rocky ridge. Higher up, a snowfield\r\ngives a break, and there is enjoyable climbing on weatherworn rock slabs. Mixed ground then\r\nleads to the low peak. There is a descent and considerable climb from the low to the high peak\r\nand, on the first ascent, the route led north across a snowfield to a col on the North Ridge. Easy\r\nscrambling along that leads to the high peak." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Douglas Apperley, Merle Sweney, 14 January 1941" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/westland/butler-range/point-2198/north-ridge", "name": "North Ridge", "grade": "2-", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "2-", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "From the Butler River South Branch, ascend the snow gully that leads directly to the col\r\nbetween Pt 2198 metres and Pt 2020 metres and continue to the summit." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Mike Andrews, Ross Eden, Philip Paton, February 1979" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/westland/butler-range/point-2198/south-ridge", "name": "South Ridge", "grade": "1+", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "1+", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "From the Butler River South Branch head up the gully under the col at Pt 1838 metres, then\r\nnorth up snow slopes. From about the height of the col swing back to the left across broad\r\nledges, a gully and steeper rock to the vicinity of the col itself. Follow up the South Ridge." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Mike Andrews, Ross Eden, Philip Paton, February 1979" } ], "places": [], "image": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/wide/public/image/SthButler_1.png?itok=wEVEbnWc", "images": [ { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/wide/public/image/SthButler_1.png?itok=wEVEbnWc", "height": "476", "width": "900" } ] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/nelson-lakes/mahanga-range/mt-mahanga": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/nelson-lakes/mahanga-range/mt-mahanga", "name": "Mt Mahanga", "altitude": "2196m", "access": null, "description": "Southern end of the Mahanga Ra, possibly in the Spenser Mts.", "latlng": [ "-42.10280764", "172.63504028" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/nelson-lakes/mahanga-range/mt-mahanga/north-face", "name": "North Face", "grade": "1", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": "1", "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "Above Lake Constance follow the West Sabine to a basin and a long scree fan. Climb carpetgrass and moderate rock beside a small gorge and traverse to a tussock shelf (or follow the Sabine true left, and to the right of bluffs, onto the shelf). Head south-west towards a col, and then the north ridge (very loose) to the summit pyramid." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": null }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/nelson-lakes/mahanga-range/mt-mahanga/east-ridge", "name": "East Ridge", "grade": "2", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": "2", "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "From Waiau Pass the ridge is broad and easy, later narrowing. When an impassable notch is reached, descend south to a shelf and regain the ridge higher up. The remainder of the ridge is pinnacled." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": null }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/nelson-lakes/mahanga-range/mt-mahanga/south-east-face", "name": "South East Face", "grade": "2", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": "2", "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "From near the bottom of the Waiau Pass route and the Waiau River, a tussock spur leads to a scree basin south-east of Mahanga. The East Ridge is gained from a snow face." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "James Park and party, 1884" } ], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/westland/john-pascoe-ridge/garden-of-eden-ice-plateau/the-great-unknown": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/westland/john-pascoe-ridge/garden-of-eden-ice-plateau/the-great-unknown", "name": "The Great Unknown", "altitude": "2196m", "access": null, "description": "In 1935 John Pascoe named this peak ' The Great Unknown because it was a 'cornerpost in a welter of new country'. From the Perth, The Great Unknown offers a great multi-day trip in its own right, while it is sometimes used as a transalpine route to and from the Garden of Eden.", "latlng": [ "-43.333294", "170.586948" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/westland/john-pascoe-ridge/garden-of-eden-ice-plateau/the-great-unknown/perth", "name": "From the Perth", "grade": "1+", "topo_ref": "FP", "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "1+", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "From Scone Creek Hut, follow the track upvalley over Scone Creek bridge then cross the Perth bridge to the true right. Follow the riverbank and vestiges of the old FS track up to Redfield Creek. Begin up the creek, but it will be necessary to sidle past several falls, particularly above about the 800m contour. Both the stream above here and an alternative using the spur out to the true left have been used. You choose. Climb up the ridge towards pt 1684m. \r\n\r\nFrom this ridge there are two more alternatives. The first route sidles steep tussock from upper Redfield Creek at about the 1200m to 1300m contour across to another spur coming off pt 1684m bordering Elizabeth Stream and descends to flats in that stream at 1200m. There is good camping here. Cross Elizabeth Stream and ascend the spur on the true right where there are also campsites, with tarns, at about the 1500m contour. Continue towards pt 1898m, crossing to the north side of the ridge at about the 1800m contour and bypassing pt 1898m itself which is a bit gnarly. Sidle under pt 2024m across shingle, easy rock slabs and snow onto what's left of the Adverse Glacier, which isnt much. \r\n\r\nThe second route sidles a little to the west of pt 1684m on a shelf between 1500m and 1600m before climbing through basins for a kilometre to reach the ridge between pt 1926m and pt 2024m. Continue over to the Adverse Glacier. \r\n\r\nSnowslopes and easy rock, including slabs, then lead to the summit of Great Unknown. Some have had crevasse problems on the Adverse, but normally there should be no problem. \r\n\r\nTo continue to the Garden of Eden, go a short distance to the north west along a rock rib from the summit of Great Unknown and descend north north east towards a basin at the 1800m contour. Sidle at more or less this height through to the Gardens. \r\nTime: One very big day from the Gardens to Scone Hut. Allow 2 going up. \r\n \r\nApproached from the Perth using a mostly gravel slip stream beginning at I35 105583. This route utilised a cage across the Perth above the Barlow confluence, but the cage has long gone." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Paul Powell, A H (Bonk) Scotney, Jim Croxton, 27 Dec 1939." }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/westland/john-pascoe-ridge/garden-of-eden-ice-plateau/the-great-unknown/garden-eden", "name": "From the Garden of Eden", "grade": "1+", "topo_ref": "GE", "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "1+", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "From the Garden of Eden, sidle at roughly the 1760m contour on the north side of the ridge to a basin at 1800m. Head south, up a basin of rock and snow to reach the west ridge just before the summit. A scramble. Variations exist closer to the ridge, with more rock climbing involved." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "John Gabites, John Rogers, Alan Brown, 29 Dec 1939." } ], "places": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/westland/john-pascoe-ridge/garden-of-eden-ice-plateau/the-great-unknown/mt-moreton", "name": "Mt Moreton", "altitude": "1775m", "access": "An outlier on the Redfield Creek route to The Great Unknown.\n1st ascent unknown.", "description": "The Moretons were itinerent artists who spent over a month at Duncans Hut in the Rakaia? in 1914.", "latlng": [ "-43.344531", "170.596218" ], "routes": [], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] } ], "image": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/wide/public/image/P208_0.png?itok=-yuJYexQ", "images": [ { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/wide/public/image/P208_0.png?itok=-yuJYexQ", "height": "589", "width": "900" } ] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/c58dhau-landsborough/barrier-range/paku-pk": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/c58dhau-landsborough/barrier-range/paku-pk", "name": "Paku Pk", "altitude": "2196m", "access": null, "description": null, "latlng": [ "-44.1317978921", "169.703973572" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/%C5%8Dhau-landsborough/barrier-range/paku-pk/north-face", "name": "North Face", "grade": "1+,II", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": "1+", "commitment": "II", "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": null } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": "From the west branch of South Temple Stream near spot height 1231m, climb through bluffs on the lower north-east slopes, then angle across upper slopes and climb the easy final pyramid.", "ascent": "Ross Cullen, April 2003" } ], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/c58dhau-landsborough/ben-ohau-range/pt-2196": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/c58dhau-landsborough/ben-ohau-range/pt-2196", "name": "Pt 2196", "altitude": "2196m", "access": null, "description": null, "latlng": [ "-44.06559", "169.9838" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/%C5%8Dhau-landsborough/ben-ohau-range/pt-2196/top-mcmillan-stream", "name": "From Top McMillan Stream", "grade": "1,I", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": "1", "commitment": "I", "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": null } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": "Accessed from either Top McMillan Stream or Gladstone Stream.", "ascent": "First ascent unknown" } ], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/canterbury/craigieburn-range/mt-enys": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/canterbury/craigieburn-range/mt-enys", "name": "Mt Enys", "altitude": "2194m", "access": null, "description": "tba", "latlng": [ "-43.233573", "171.635199" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/canterbury/craigieburn-range/mt-enys/mount-cheeseman-mount-enys", "name": "MOUNT CHEESEMAN TO MOUNT ENYS", "grade": null, "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "Grade 2/3\t\t\t\t900 metres\r\nThe ridgeline immediately south of Mt Cheeseman has a few rocky outcrops which interrupt progress, so drop into the upper Ryton for 150 vertical metres or so and regain the ridge near point 1959. Continue south along the ridge crest to Mt Izard (2019m), and Mt Cloudsley (2107). From here to the summit of Mount Enys (2194m) the ridge is broader with easier travel. 8\u00bdkm or around 3 to 4 hours from the peak of Mt Cheeseman to Mt Enys.\r\nSkiing off Mt Cheeseman to the south-east takes you into the headwaters of Waterfall Creek for a ski descent of 500 metres or more. Similar basins exist to the south-east of Mt Izard (Long Creek) and Mt Cloudsley (Whitewater Stream). The climb back to the ridge should be straightforward. The slopes on the western side of the range, facing into the lower Ryton Valley, are often wind-blasted free of snow, or melted by the heat of the sun, and are usually only worth skiing in good mid winter conditions. Best travel is along the ridgeline, and if necessary sidling on the eastern side." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": null }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/canterbury/craigieburn-range/mt-enys/mount-enys-porter-heights-ski-touring", "name": "MOUNT ENYS FROM PORTER HEIGHTS, Ski Touring.", "grade": null, "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "Grade 2/3\t\t\t\t600 metres\r\nMount Enys (2194m), is the highest peak in the Craigieburn Ranges with commanding views over the Castle Hill Basin, where the Enys brothers first began farming in the 1860s.\r\nTo get there from Porter Heights, go out along the range as described above to point 2029. It\u2019s about another 300 metres of climbing, over point 2046, and past Carn Brea to get to the summit (6km, or 2\u00bd to 3 hours in total from the ski area).\r\nAnother, usually preferable, way to reach the summit is to ski north off point 1981, as described above, into the headwaters of the Goldney. From there Mount Enys is seen straight ahead, up a broad 700 vertical metre slope. This is about the same time from the ski area, but you get more turns in.\r\nThe return journey is slightly quicker, but beware of afternoon cloud build-up. If it\u2019s misty on the ridge during the return, be sure to take the ridge that goes SW off point 2029, and not SE. \r\nAfter good snowfalls, the descent from Mt Enys back past Carn Brea into Enys Stream can give over 1000 vertical metres of skiing, although then you\u2019re faced with a long and steep climb back up to the ridge. The untracked 6km tramp across country down to Highway 73 is not recommended! Allow 2 hours if doing it." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": null } ], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/nelson-lakes/ella-range/mt-dorothy": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/nelson-lakes/ella-range/mt-dorothy", "name": "Mt Dorothy", "altitude": "2194m", "access": null, "description": "Ella Ra", "latlng": [ "-42.12184555", "172.58422852" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/nelson-lakes/ella-range/mt-dorothy/downie-creek-route", "name": "Downie Creek Route", "grade": "1", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": "1", "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "A marked track (overgrown but okay to follow) exists up Downie Creek to campsites near the bush edge. Mt Dorothy is an easy climb from the head of the creek. Mt Magdalene is a pleasant climb up a prominent scree/snow gully to the leading ridge and a rocky knoll at the top." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": null } ], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/%C5%8Dhau-landsborough/main-divide/baker-pk": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/%C5%8Dhau-landsborough/main-divide/baker-pk", "name": "Baker Pk", "altitude": "2193m", "access": null, "description": null, "latlng": [ "-43.8745", "169.8133" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/%C5%8Dhau-landsborough/main-divide/baker-pk/ridge", "name": "From The Ridge", "grade": "1", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "1", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": null } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": "A couple of bumps on the ridge en route between Elcho Pass and Mt Ward.", "ascent": "First ascents of both peaks, Jim Dawson, Christopher Johnson, Scott Russell December 1934" } ], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aspiring/west-wanaka-mountains/minaret-pks": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aspiring/west-wanaka-mountains/minaret-pks", "name": "Minaret Pks", "altitude": "2193m", "access": null, "description": null, "latlng": [ "-44.43531383", "169.00303667" ], "routes": [], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/westland/butler-range/mt-ariki": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/westland/butler-range/mt-ariki", "name": "Mt Ariki", "altitude": "2193m", "access": null, "description": "na", "latlng": [ "-43.396317", "170.540686" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/westland/butler-range/mt-ariki/whataroa-glacier", "name": "From Whataroa Glacier", "grade": "1", "topo_ref": "WG", "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "1", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "A straightforward snow climb from the Whataroa Glacier." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "J Sampson, A Anderson, January 1949" } ], "places": [], "image": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/wide/public/image/WhatGl.png?itok=i4l597wl", "images": [ { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/wide/public/image/WhatGl.png?itok=i4l597wl", "height": "583", "width": "900" } ] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aspiring/west-wanaka-mountains/mt-awful": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aspiring/west-wanaka-mountains/mt-awful", "name": "Mt Awful", "altitude": "2192m", "access": "Mt Awful can be approached via the Wilkin Valley and then up Siberia, or up the Young Valley from Makarora. The Young Valley is probably the best option. There is potential to find a good bivvy spot at the head of the valley, above Young Hut. Makarora to Young Hut: 8\u20139 hours.", "description": "If cute was an acceptable word to use to describe a mountain then Mt Awful would be just that. It is a readily accessible peak with good rock as a bonus.", "latlng": [ "-44.14094234", "169.06288864" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aspiring/west-wanaka-mountains/mt-awful/north-west-ridge", "name": "North West Ridge", "grade": "II,1+", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": "II", "mtcook": "1+", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "From the Siberia Valley climb to the saddle between Doris and Awful, then along the ridge." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "J W Aitken, J Gillespie, E Miller, F Wilkinson, December 1944" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aspiring/west-wanaka-mountains/mt-awful/south-east-ridge", "name": "South East Ridge", "grade": "II,2+", "topo_ref": "1", "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": "II", "mtcook": "2+", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "From Young Hut there is a well marked tramping route up onto Gillespie Pass. From here the ridge to Mt Awful is scrambling. There are a couple of rock steps which look steeper than they are before the actual ridge is reached. The climbing on the ridge isn\u2019t technically difficult. After a snowfield is climbed there is a section of good solid rock along a knife-edged ridge, which is the trickiest part of the climb and may require a rope and a small rock rack." } ], "quality": 1, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": null }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aspiring/west-wanaka-mountains/mt-awful/south-west-ridge", "name": "South West Ridge", "grade": "14", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": true, "ewbank": "14", "description": "5 pitches" } ], "quality": 2, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": true, "description": null, "ascent": "Mark Morrison, Regan Low, 2001" } ], "places": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aspiring/mt-awful/east-face", "name": "East Face", "altitude": null, "access": null, "description": "The East Face is a spectacular sweep of good solid rock and is the crowning glory of the Young Valley. There are three routes up the face; summer rock routes of good quality.", "latlng": null, "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aspiring/mt-awful/east-face/very-hungry-weka", "name": "A Very Hungry Weka", "grade": "14,3,III", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": "3", "commitment": "III", "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": true, "ewbank": "14", "description": null } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": true, "description": "Climb the large, right-facing dihedral, one corner system to the left of \"The\nWeta Walk\". This dihedral climbs mostly mediocre rock with very limited\nprotection for\n8 pitches before joining the right side of the uppermost snowfield seen in\nthe picture. Descend via the South East Ridge.", "ascent": "Timothy Hargrave, Alan Goldbetter, December 2014" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aspiring/mt-awful/east-face/weta-walk", "name": "Weta Walk", "grade": "17,III,4", "topo_ref": "2", "image": null, "images": [], "length": "0m", "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": "III", "mtcook": "4", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": "17", "description": null } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": "0", "natural_pro": false, "description": "This nine pitch route climbs out of the snowfield at the bottom left hand side of the face via a four pitch ar\u00eate at about grade 17. This ar\u00eate forms the side of a gut which can often be choked with snow or have a waterfall running down it. From the top of this ar\u00eate head right up a narrow ledge which can have snow on it. This ledge takes you into the middle of the face and into a corner topped by a small roof. A good crack system takes you around the roof and then up into open country.\nThere is a sting in the tail to this route in the form of a small overlap which is the crux. A piton driven in upside down protected the moves through this overlap, but small cams would probably be better. Two more technical pitches follow and then the face finishes at the summit after a section of scrambling on loose but not horrific rock.", "ascent": "Clinton Beavan, Allan Uren, January 1996" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aspiring/mt-awful/east-face/stitch-time", "name": "A Stitch in Time", "grade": "21,III,5", "topo_ref": "3", "image": null, "images": [], "length": "416m", "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": "III", "mtcook": "5", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": "40m", "bolts": null, "trad": true, "ewbank": "18", "description": "From the snowfield in the middle of the face climb up to a fixed anchor (red tape)." }, { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": "30m", "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": "17", "description": "Step right and up 30m, then angle back left 10m to fixed belay." }, { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": "50m", "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": "19", "description": "Up 40m to fixed pin, may be difficult to find, then up left to fixed belay" }, { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": "45m", "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": "18", "description": "Up 2\u20133m then veer right up seam to fixed belay." }, { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": "45m", "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": "16", "description": "Up to fixed belay." }, { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": "45m", "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": "18", "description": "Traverse 8m right along ledge then up to natural belay under roof." }, { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": "45m", "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": "21", "description": "Step out right onto slab then up 8m to fixed piton. Keep tending right to broad ramp. Follow this left to large ledge and natural belay. Abseil cord is to your right." }, { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": "51m", "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": "19", "description": "Belay 10m left of abseil sling. Follow obvious crack with a small grass patch and through right facing corner." }, { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": "45m", "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "Traverse left finding line of least resistance through broken rock to natural belay. The abseil sling is to your right." }, { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": "20m", "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "Tend up and right 15m to abseil cord and walk left 20m to summit." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": true, "description": "This is a great looking 11-pitch route taking in some well-protected climbing\nin a stunning setting.", "ascent": "Anna Gillooly, David Hiddleston, January 2000" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aspiring/mt-awful/east-face/wicked", "name": "WICKED", "grade": "5,III", "topo_ref": "4", "image": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/route/pit1%20and%202_0.jpg?itok=We49V4fK", "images": [ { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/route/pit1%20and%202_0.jpg?itok=We49V4fK", "height": "183", "width": "325" } ], "length": "370m", "pitches": [ { "alpine": "5", "commitment": "III", "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": "370m", "bolts": "6", "trad": true, "ewbank": null, "description": null } ], "quality": 3, "bolts": "6", "natural_pro": true, "description": "East Face of Mt Awful; the first 3 pitches follow a left facing sickle shaped\nformation on the face, about 3/4 across from the left.\n\n(19, 50m) Start by single bolt, climb slab via thin crack to a right\ntrending ramp that leads to the left facing corner (sickle handle) follow\nthis vertically for 50m to anchor.\n(18, 50m) continue up corner crack (18) until it leans back into a series\nof right trending flakes (16) follow these to anchor.\n(20, 45m) climb corner above anchor, or flakes just left of anchor, to\ngain 3 bolt runners where flakes are suspect. Continue up good flakes\nslightly left of corner to anchor just under overhang.\n(21, 30m) Under-cling crack going left (to the tip of the sickle blade),\nthen up and right slightly, up more flakes to ledge going left to a shallow\ncorner. Up this to level of single bolt, step right and then difficult step\nup (21?) to gain under-clings going right.\n(20,30m) Step up and left of anchor through small overhang (20), up blunt\nar\u00eate and leftwards to avoid large hanging flakes, step right above these\nflakes, then up rightward facing flakes on easier ground to anchor.\n(20, 56m) Follow left leaning corner system to a single bolt. Thin face\nmoves out right gain an under-cling crack going right and then step up again\nat first opportunity before grass, follow cracks and flakes directly upwards\nto anchor on a ledge.\n(17, 45m) Up and across grassy ledge to a wide crack, pull round\noverhang/nose into off-width which becomes chimney. Turn and step onto\nslabs, five bolts point towards anchor.\n(21, 45m) Up corner crack from ledge (19) to top of pedestal, continue\nupwards on thin crack to a rightward traverse on quartz seam and smeary feet,\nthen up and right to right facing corner, and step left onto ar\u00eate and up\nface to anchor. 6 bolts and good natural pro.\n(16, 10m) Move right to obvious crack, beware loose edges until that.\nThen up to ridge, beware loose rocks on top. There is a rap anchor on ridge\nto abseil off.", "ascent": "Milo Gilmour, Llewellyn Murdock January 2013" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aspiring/mt-awful/east-face/summer-yes", "name": "Summer of Yes", "grade": "21,II", "topo_ref": null, "image": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/route/soy.jpg?itok=XAVSWM7e", "images": [ { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/route/soy.jpg?itok=XAVSWM7e", "height": "325", "width": "233" } ], "length": "190m", "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": "II", "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": "190m", "bolts": null, "trad": true, "ewbank": "21", "description": "Excellent four pitch route. The top two pitches follow the big corner. Bolted belays to rap off." } ], "quality": 3, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": true, "description": "(16,45m) First pitch follows rightward curving crack to first terrace,\nand then follows corner and flakes to convenient small ledge.\n(17, 50m) More or less straight up following flakes aiming for base of\ncorner. Belay on top of large flake.\n(20, 50m) Follow the obvious main crack leading to the corner above.\nGood laybacking and bridging using large cams (#5).\n(21/22, 45m) Continue up wide crack and undercling rightwards to its\nconclusion. Strenuous laybacking at the top. Large cams again.\nEither scramble loose easy ground rightwards to ridge to exit, or rap off\ndown the existing route you just climbed.", "ascent": "Milo Gilmour, Nick Flyvbjerg, Rich Tribe, Feb 2013" } ], "places": [], "image": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/wide/public/image/SB_Awful_fmt_0.jpeg?itok=HQvWZskr", "images": [ { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/wide/public/image/SB_Awful_fmt_0.jpeg?itok=HQvWZskr", "height": "510", "width": "320" } ] } ], "image": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/wide/public/image/SB_Awful_fmt.jpeg?itok=7wU_t6qn", "images": [ { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/wide/public/image/SB_Awful_fmt.jpeg?itok=7wU_t6qn", "height": "510", "width": "320" } ] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/canterbury/rolleston-range/jacks-hill": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/canterbury/rolleston-range/jacks-hill", "name": "Jacks Hill", "altitude": "2191m", "access": null, "description": "na", "latlng": [ "-43.195916", "171.257114" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/canterbury/rolleston-range/jacks-hill/south-ridge", "name": "South Ridge", "grade": "1+", "topo_ref": "SR", "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "1+", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "From the foot of the broad slopes west of Chimera Stream, link a network of open clearings and\r\nanimal tracks through manuka scrub (not as bad as it looks) to the broad tussock slopes leading\r\nto the col between Pts 1791 metres and 1971 metres. From the basin north of this col follow a\r\ngully that leads to the ridge north of Pt 2008 metres. Climb the rocky ridge to the broad flat\r\nsummit, avoiding obstacles on the east side." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": null } ], "places": [], "image": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/wide/public/image/JacksHill.png?itok=pKt3t43j", "images": [ { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/wide/public/image/JacksHill.png?itok=pKt3t43j", "height": "544", "width": "900" } ] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/canterbury/jollie-range/jollie-sisters": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/canterbury/jollie-range/jollie-sisters", "name": "Jollie Sisters", "altitude": "2191m", "access": null, "description": "These peaks are rarely climbed from the Rakaia, but can be reached from basins to their west via the\nunnamed stream east of Prelude Peak.", "latlng": [ "-43.323429", "170.911732" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/canterbury/jollie-range/jollie-sisters/divide-ridges", "name": "Divide Ridges", "grade": "1", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "1", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "The Jollie Sisters comprise four minor, closely-spaced peaks, individually named from east to\r\nwest Jane, Jean, Joan and June. They are a straightforward climb along the ridge." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "West sister was first climbed by Gavin Malcolmson and Priestley Thomson, December 1933." } ], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aspiring/harris-mountains/plunket-dome": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aspiring/harris-mountains/plunket-dome", "name": "Plunket Dome", "altitude": "2191m", "access": null, "description": "Governor\u2019s Ridge connects Plunket Dome, Islington and Liverpool and forms the edge of the upper Dart N\u00e9v\u00e9. A fantastic alpine wander can be had by traveling up to Cascade Saddle, along Governors\u2019 Ridge and down one of the ridges above Rough Creek.", "latlng": [ "-44.454894", "168.627272" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aspiring/harris-mountains/plunket-dome/governors-ridge", "name": "Governors Ridge", "grade": "1,II", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": "0m", "pitches": [ { "alpine": "1", "commitment": "II", "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": null } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": "0", "natural_pro": false, "description": "From the top of the Cascade Saddle track follow around and through a basin to Cascade Saddle. North of the saddle Governors Ridge is an easy, broad, but crevassed snow climb over Plunket Dome and Islington to Liverpool. From Aspiring Hut to Liverpool requires about 7 hours.", "ascent": "Frank Wright, J R Simpson, Jack Clarke, Colin Ferrier, Bernard Head, February 1914" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aspiring/harris-mountains/plunket-dome/ridge-north-rough-creek", "name": "Via ridge north of Rough Creek", "grade": "II,2", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": "0m", "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": "II", "mtcook": "2", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": null } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": "0", "natural_pro": false, "description": "From Aspiring Hut cross Cascade Creek (bridged) and strike up through the bush from the top of the flats opposite the hut, to meet Rough Creek at the foot of the hill slope. Cross Rough Creek on avalanche ice to gain the scrubby ridge to the north. The ridge joins Governors\u2019 Ridge between Plunket Dome and Islington. The main obstacle is usually a large schrund a short distance below Governors\u2019 Ridge.\nThe first ascent party took five and a half hours to reach Governors\u2019 Ridge from a bivvy well above the bushline. It seems likely that this time could be improved considerably in good conditions and a time of six hours from Aspiring Hut to the ridge seems reasonable.", "ascent": "Roland Rodda, Rod Sinclair, Leo Quinn, Ralph Glasson, December 1939" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aspiring/harris-mountains/plunket-dome/ridge-south-rough-creek", "name": "Via the ridge south of Rough Creek", "grade": "II,2", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": "II", "mtcook": "2", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "From Rough Creek (Route 3.2) climb through the bush and scrub of the ridge immediately south of the creek. Traverse left (south) across scree about 50m above the scrub line into a gully. Cross the creek in the gully and work up through the snowgrass bluffs to the south to reach a ridge with a clear gully on either side. Climb straight up the ridge until it peters out level with the snout of a small glacier descending from Plunket Dome. An easy traverse leads across to the glacier, the south side of which is then followed up to Governors\u2019 Ridge, about 350m above Cascade Saddle.\r\nThis route would probably take about five hours to Governors\u2019 Ridge. It was investigated in 1954 as a possible alternative route to the Dart, and remnants of a cut track may be found below the bushline." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": null } ], "places": [], "image": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/wide/public/image/Plunket_Isling_opt.jpeg?itok=3HroGsrA", "images": [ { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/wide/public/image/Plunket_Isling_opt.jpeg?itok=3HroGsrA", "height": "310", "width": "564" } ] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/canterbury-westland-alps/main-divide/schrund-pk": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/canterbury-westland-alps/main-divide/schrund-pk", "name": "Schrund Pk", "altitude": "2190m", "access": null, "description": null, "latlng": [ "-43.344905", "170.709944" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/canterbury-westland-alps/main-divide/schrund-pk/perth-col", "name": "From Perth Col", "grade": "1", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "1", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": null } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": "A bump on the Divide that can be traversed from either side and generally presents no problems once the Main Divide is reached.", "ascent": "R E (Gran) Clark, Bryan Barrer, Arthur Pearson, Neville Barker, January 1934" } ], "places": [], "image": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/wide/public/image/P191_1.png?itok=ZgEvGfJr", "images": [ { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/wide/public/image/P191_1.png?itok=ZgEvGfJr", "height": "525", "width": "900" } ] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/c58dhau-landsborough/ben-ohau-range/mt-lloyd": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/c58dhau-landsborough/ben-ohau-range/mt-lloyd", "name": "Mt Lloyd", "altitude": "2190m", "access": "Generally the access is best in the stream bed. The initial km or so can be done on the farm track on the true R of Fred's stream. After reaching a gate where the 4WD track heads left there is a slightly hidden track down through the manuka to join Freds stream. It is about 15m past the gate. You will not see where you are going (Mt Lloyd) until at the stream jct BY15 633 434 at the head of the valley.", "description": "On the southern flanks of Mt Lloyd is a complex multi peaked rock buttress. Three faces have been named and from west to east they are Pyramid Face, Squirrel Face, Hundred Dollar Face. These are on the northern side of the spur after Shadows and Craig. Continue up into the basin between Mt Cran and the Mt Lloyd outlier buttress.\n(L to R) Mt Cran - Feared by the Bad, Delirium, Deep Purple, Monkey Puzzle.\n(L to R) Mt Lloyd - Craig (E), Shadows (F), Thar She Goes", "latlng": [ "-43.8114", "170.0653" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/canterbury/ben-ohau-range/mt-lloyd/craig", "name": "Craig", "grade": "17,4+", "topo_ref": "E", "image": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/route/S100-3339.jpg?itok=MBM-GqEV", "images": [ { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/route/S100-3339.jpg?itok=MBM-GqEV", "height": "244", "width": "325" } ], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "4+", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": "17", "description": null } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": "On the central buttress of the South Face of the Mt Lloyd outlier and left of Shadows. A 12 pitch route with crux at grade 17/18. The climb begins by taking a rising traverse to break through a short steep wall. After surmounting two gendarmes, take the right hand gray wall to reach the main ridge. Scramble to foot of orange slab and climb the 60m crack. Continue up to ledges, scramble right on ledge, and finish up steep rock breaking through overlaps.\nAndy Macfarlane\u2019s description of Craig. Dated 8/2/1995.\n\nStart at apex of the buttress. Rising traverse left to break through short steep wall. Up. Grade 15\n2, 3, 4 Up\nEnds atop the first gendarme. 13\nTraverse gendarmes. 15\nTake the right hand grey wall following the line of weakness. Gain the main ridge. 16\nScramble into gully to foot of the orange slab.\n60m up the crack that splits the orange slab. 15\nUp the corner bounding the right side of the rising slab. 15\nUp to ledges. Scramble down ledge to the right.\nUp steep rock breaking through overlaps. 17.\nScramble to start of crag.", "ascent": "Peter Darby, Andy Macfarlane, December 1994" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/canterbury/ben-ohau-range/mt-lloyd/shadows", "name": "Shadows", "grade": "4", "topo_ref": "F", "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "4", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "The eye catching southwest buttress gained from upper valley in Freds Stream, on the south west outlier of Mt Lloyd. Climb centre of delightful face for six pitches of about grade 12. Then complete a series of pinnacles and short walls. The upper part of the route provides a crux grade 16 pitch on a 40m wall. About 350 m, 14 pitches in total." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Bill McLeod, Mathew Szundy, December 1994" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/canterbury/ben-ohau-range/mt-lloyd/thar-she-goes", "name": "Thar She Goes", "grade": "8", "topo_ref": "G", "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": "8", "description": "Peter Darby and partner Hamish completed but do not recommend, Thar She Goes at grade 8, on the slabs further right on the same wall." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Peter Darby and Hamish, January 1995" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/canterbury/ben-ohau-range/mt-lloyd/south-east-face", "name": "South East Face", "grade": "1,I", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": "1", "commitment": "I", "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": null } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": "From the head of Freds Stream, head up the sidestream on the true left at BY15 633 434, trend right below the Lloyd Buttress and strike out for the summit. Alternatively, take the track beside Elbow Stream to a soil conservation experimental area, then ascend the slopes to the top. Most likely first climbed by Kain and Sloman en route to Mt Cran.", "ascent": "Conrad Kain, H N P Sloman, March 1916" } ], "places": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/c58dhau-landsborough/ben-ohau-range/mt-lloyd/pyramid-face", "name": "Pyramid Face", "altitude": null, "access": "These are on the northern side of the spur after Shadows and Craig. Continue up into the basin between Mt Cran and the Mt Lloyd outlier buttress.", "description": "(L to R) Ozone Free, Face to Face, Squirrel, Seagull", "latlng": null, "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/canterbury/ben-ohau-range/mt-lloyd/pyramid-face/ozone-free", "name": "Ozone Free", "grade": "21", "topo_ref": "1.19", "image": null, "images": [], "length": "155m", "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": "40m", "bolts": null, "trad": true, "ewbank": "17", "description": "This route starts in a small alcove a couple of metres up on the left side of the wall, just right of black argillite bands, climbs a slab passes through two overlap/roofs to each the summit. Pitch 1 grade 17, 40 m" }, { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": "25m", "bolts": null, "trad": true, "ewbank": "17", "description": "pitch 2 grade 17, 25 m" }, { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": "20m", "bolts": null, "trad": true, "ewbank": "21", "description": "pitch 3 grade 21, 20 m" }, { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": "40m", "bolts": null, "trad": true, "ewbank": "15", "description": "pitch 4 grade 15, 40 m" }, { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": "30m", "bolts": null, "trad": true, "ewbank": "9", "description": "pitch 5 grade 9, 30 m \u2013 hand traverse on right side of summit ridge to reach notch and easy descent gully on north side." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": true, "description": null, "ascent": "Kane Hartill, Nick Sheen, December 1996" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/canterbury/ben-ohau-range/mt-lloyd/pyramid-face/face-face", "name": "Face to Face", "grade": "19", "topo_ref": "1.20", "image": null, "images": [], "length": "165m", "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": "50m", "bolts": null, "trad": true, "ewbank": "18", "description": "First belay stance 2-3 metres up groove in middle of wall, 15 metres right of Ozone Free. Pitch 1 grade 18, 50 m up slab following groove crack system and around right edge of overhang." }, { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": "45m", "bolts": null, "trad": true, "ewbank": "19", "description": "Pitch 2 grade 19 45 m, skirt right around headwall then up ar\u00eate and onto face." }, { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": "40m", "bolts": null, "trad": true, "ewbank": "19", "description": "Pitch 3 grade 19, 40 m, climbs a fine ar\u00eate to the bulge then left to gain final face. Trend left up face to airy belay at top of peak." }, { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": "30m", "bolts": null, "trad": true, "ewbank": "9", "description": "Pitch 4 - as per pitch 5 Ozone Free. Grade 9, 30 m \u2013 hand traverse on right side of summit ridge to reach notch and easy descent gully on north side." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": true, "description": null, "ascent": "Richard Kimberly, Ingo Machelheidt, December 1996" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/canterbury/ben-ohau-range/mt-lloyd/pyramid-face/express-way", "name": "Express Way", "grade": "16", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": "16", "description": "Follow a line up a textbook ar\u00eate for two pitches before joining FtF at that route\u2019s third pitch.\r\nIt is a slightly easier alternative to the other routes on the face. It consists of 200 metres of good pink rock." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Dave Bolger, Rupert Gardiner, Rodger Hodson, Grag Larkin, 2012" } ], "places": [], "image": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/wide/public/image/75_1.jpeg?itok=izfWSfUk", "images": [ { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/wide/public/image/75_1.jpeg?itok=izfWSfUk", "height": "634", "width": "900" } ] }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/c58dhau-landsborough/ben-ohau-range/mt-lloyd/squirrel-face", "name": "Squirrel Face", "altitude": null, "access": null, "description": "Two single pitch routes are on the north facing wall - Squirrel Face - right of the Pyramid face.\n(L to R) Ozone Free, Face to Face, Squirrel, Seagull", "latlng": null, "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/canterbury/ben-ohau-range/mt-lloyd/squirrel-face/squirrel", "name": "Squirrel", "grade": "17", "topo_ref": "1.21", "image": null, "images": [], "length": "22m", "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": "22m", "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": "17", "description": "Mellow climbing up the centre of this well featured face. Single bolt belay and wire placements above ledge about 4 metres below top of face. Grade 17, 22 m." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Richard Kimberly, Ingo Machelheidt, December 1996" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/canterbury/ben-ohau-range/mt-lloyd/squirrel-face/seagull", "name": "Seagull", "grade": "14", "topo_ref": "1.22", "image": null, "images": [], "length": "25m", "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": "25m", "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": "14", "description": "Climb on face and right ar\u00eate to bolt belay. Grade 14, 25 m." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Richard Kimberly, Ingo Machelheidt, December 1996" } ], "places": [], "image": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/wide/public/image/75_0.jpeg?itok=Jr9P6NlG", "images": [ { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/wide/public/image/75_0.jpeg?itok=Jr9P6NlG", "height": "634", "width": "900" } ] }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/c58dhau-landsborough/ben-ohau-range/mt-lloyd/one-hundred-dollar-face", "name": "One Hundred Dollar Face", "altitude": null, "access": null, "description": "Access to the One Hundred Dollar Face is via a series of ledges at the foot of a slab of 'Wanaka like' schist, 30 m below and right of the Pyramid Face. Climb the corner on the right side of this slab then traverse right along broken ledges and scramble up a final corner to reach the belay ledge on the south face.\n(L to R) Canadian Monkeys, 300 Tonne Surfboard", "latlng": null, "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/canterbury/ben-ohau-range/mt-lloyd/one-hundred-dollar-face/canadian-monkeys", "name": "Canadian Monkeys", "grade": "21", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": "70m", "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": "35m", "bolts": null, "trad": true, "ewbank": "21", "description": "Pitch 1, grade 21, 35 m. Climb the thin gray wall passing a bolt, and then trend slightly left to an obvious knifeblade placement then another bolt to reach a bolt belay near the ar\u00eate. Sustained!" }, { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": "35m", "bolts": null, "trad": true, "ewbank": "19", "description": "Pitch 2, move up past a bolt then follow ar\u00eate to the top on natural gear. Belay in notch on ridge and climb down north side 4 metres to 'Squirrel' rap bolt. Grade 19, 35 metres." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": true, "description": null, "ascent": "Richard Kimberly, Ingo Machelheidt, December 1996" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/canterbury/ben-ohau-range/mt-lloyd/one-hundred-dollar-face/300-tonne-surfboard", "name": "300 Tonne Surfboard", "grade": "20", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": "70m", "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": "30m", "bolts": null, "trad": true, "ewbank": "20", "description": "From the belay cracks at the left end, move right along a ledge to a deep finger crack 3m left of the major corner. Follow this diagonal crack to where it meets the corner, then it\u2019s varied climbing up the corner and ar\u00eate to a welcome belay crack in wall below the large roof." }, { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": "40m", "bolts": null, "trad": true, "ewbank": "15", "description": "Climb the right ar\u00eate up and around the roof, carefully avoiding the hanging pillar. Move left and directly up the face on incuts left of broken ground to belay on top." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": true, "description": "Descend down the north side of the peak to ledge and traverse left to the Squirrel rap bolt.", "ascent": "Kane Hartill, Nick Sheen, December 1996" } ], "places": [], "image": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/wide/public/image/BB111T.jpg?itok=aRQ_lU44", "images": [ { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/wide/public/image/BB111T.jpg?itok=aRQ_lU44", "height": "900", "width": "613" } ] } ], "image": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/wide/public/image/39_0_1.jpeg?itok=Ahe92v0w", "images": [ { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/wide/public/image/39_0_1.jpeg?itok=Ahe92v0w", "height": "485", "width": "900" }, { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/image/Shadows.jpg?itok=RsoSxf8f", "height": "325", "width": "244" } ] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/otago/barrier-range/bruce-pk": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/otago/barrier-range/bruce-pk", "name": "Bruce Pk", "altitude": "2190m", "access": "The Logan/Main Temple Stream North Branch access route opens the area up for day trips. Allow 3-4 hours to the saddle south of Bruce Peak and another hour to the base of Steeple peak (Weta Prowl etc).\nHead up the last major side stream (second major side stream crossed) for 200 metres and enter the beech forest on the true left. Head up the spur in the forest which gradually steepens, avoiding any thick undergrowth on the spur by keeping to the true left. A very short scrub bash brings you to a scrubby knob (see photo). From here climb the bluff directly above moving diagonally right up through subalpine scrub and into a scrub filled gully. Go up the gully onto a spur, then ascend again for 100 metres up and out to the true left onto the tussock ridge. Follow the ridge to its end where there are small open bivy sites for at least 6 people. Running water can be found in the gully on the true left. There is another potential bivy site 150m to the east with a water trickle off a cliff.\nFrom the bivy it is 30 minutes to the col (2000 metres) between Bruce and Steeple Peaks, and all routes on these peaks. Approximately 3 to 3.5 hours from the Temple Shelter to the bivy site.\nAlternatively access via Temple Stream South Branch (about 8 hours). See Steeple Peak description.", "description": "Bruce Peak was named for Bruce Clark who died in 1984 in a fall on the north face during an alpine rescue practice on the mountain. Bruce was an experienced and talented climber who had contributed much to New Zealand climbing and Search and Rescue. His death starkly illustrated that mountains can be both beautiful and dangerous places.\nWe had just finished a double rope lower and had packed up the gear, safety line last. It was warmer, the sun had shone for a while and it had stopped snowing. But as we moved to safe ground along a large sloping ledge, a gust of wind blew me off balance and I clutched at the low scrub. Then Chris screamed, 'Bruce, Bruce, Oh my God, Bruce!' and I turned to see a flash of blue fly through the air. Bruce was falling, rolling and tumbling, cartwheeling and turning, like an astronaut on a weightless space walk, only there was no lifeline. Suddenly it was cold again; Bruce was gone.\nSimon Cox, New Zealand Alpine Journal, 1985.", "latlng": [ "-44.0851652155", "169.769638405" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/otago/barrier-range/bruce-pk/north-face", "name": "North Face", "grade": "2", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "2", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": null } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": "The most obvious ascent route is up the north rib, following a line just east\nof the prominent buttress which runs down toward the North Temple Stream.", "ascent": "Ross Cullen, March 1989" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/otago/barrier-range/bruce-pk/gunsight-pass", "name": "From Gunsight Pass", "grade": "3", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "3", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": null } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": "Angle right up an exposed bench to gain the west ridge then cheval along the\nridge until easier ground leads to the summit.", "ascent": "First ascent unknown" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/otago/barrier-range/bruce-pk/kea-arete", "name": "Kea Arete", "grade": "3", "topo_ref": null, "image": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/route/IMG_1175.jpg?itok=c7VcBh0s", "images": [ { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/route/IMG_1175.jpg?itok=c7VcBh0s", "height": "325", "width": "243" } ], "length": "400m", "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "3", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": "400m", "bolts": null, "trad": true, "ewbank": null, "description": null } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": true, "description": "The obvious arete/spur between Gunsight Pass and Butterfly Buttress. 7\npitches (60m rope) on good quality rock. Crux (grade 14) on pitch 2,\notherwise consistent grade 10-12 climbing. Any tricky bits go slightly left\nof arete.\nKea Arete (red), Butterfly Buttress (yellow)", "ascent": "Dagmar Linder, Colin Magee, Matt Quirke, 24 Nov 2004" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/otago/barrier-range/bruce-pk/rocky-road", "name": "Rocky Road", "grade": "17,3", "topo_ref": null, "image": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/route/IMG_1517.JPG?itok=8ppM3v-q", "images": [ { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/route/IMG_1517.JPG?itok=8ppM3v-q", "height": "324", "width": "325" } ], "length": "480m", "pitches": [ { "alpine": "3", "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": "480m", "bolts": null, "trad": true, "ewbank": "17", "description": "The placement is not too bad" } ], "quality": 2, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": true, "description": "Pitch1 - Start on the right hand side of the snow slope, around 6 metres\ntraverse then straight up the face. Grade around 15, 60 metres.\nPitch 2 - Keep heading straight up the face. Grade around 16, 60 metres.\nPitch 3 - Keep following the crag and keep yourself on the face. Grade 16. 60 metres.\nPitch 4 - Continue climbing on the face, a little bit slabby. Grade 17. 60 metres.\nPitch 5 - Start traverse to the ridge; it's very short. Around 25 metres. Grade 15.\nPitch 6 - Head straight up for around 10-15 metres then keep climbing on the left. Grade 17. 60 metres.\nLast 200 metres we decided to short rope using running belays. Grade around 13-14.", "ascent": "Tony Burnell and" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/otago/barrier-range/bruce-pk/butterfly-buttress", "name": "Butterfly Buttress", "grade": "3+", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "3+", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": null } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": "Ascend the prominent south western buttress from its lowest point in the mid\nSouth Temple. Sustained grade12-14 climbing. 500m height gain on excellent\nquality rock. Descent via Bruce -Steeple Col.", "ascent": "Ross Cullen, Geoff Gabites, Bill McLeod, February 2002" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/otago/barrier-range/bruce-pk/moths-flame", "name": "Like Moths to a Flame", "grade": "17", "topo_ref": null, "image": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/route/IMG_2569.JPG?itok=NvaAYfsy", "images": [ { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/route/IMG_2569.JPG?itok=NvaAYfsy", "height": "244", "width": "325" }, { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/route/IMG_2545.JPG?itok=XPkCtrKI", "height": "244", "width": "325" }, { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/route/IMG_2549.JPG?itok=aIRFJsrA", "height": "244", "width": "325" } ], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": true, "ewbank": "17", "description": null } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": true, "description": "Starts up S-shaped crack on buttress to the right of Butterfly Buttress.\nFollow crack (3 pitches, 17, 16,14)to crest of buttress - easy ground (10-12)\nto notch to cross Butterfly Buttress. Route wanders up easy ground (10-12) to\nsnowfield in middle of face between Kea and Butterfly, then up 17 corner and\nonto easier ground to summit. About 12 pitches due to wandering nature of\nroute. About 400m of climbing. Surprisingly decent rock.", "ascent": "Graham Johnson and Allan Brent 28/12/14" } ], "places": [], "image": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/wide/public/image/P2270047.JPG?itok=YwY11XvM", "images": [ { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/wide/public/image/P2270047.JPG?itok=YwY11XvM", "height": "675", "width": "900" }, { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/image/NorthTempleAccessOverview.JPG?itok=91cW9oXV", "height": "325", "width": "295" }, { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/image/Screen%20Shot%202015-08-24%20at%206.19.37%20PM.png?itok=KQR9uvZ9", "height": "170", "width": "325" } ] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/%C5%8Dhau-landsborough/main-divide/mt-dundas": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/%C5%8Dhau-landsborough/main-divide/mt-dundas", "name": "Mt Dundas", "altitude": "2189m", "access": null, "description": null, "latlng": [ "-43.8737", "169.8249" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/%C5%8Dhau-landsborough/main-divide/mt-dundas/ridge", "name": "From The Ridge", "grade": "1", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "1", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": null } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": "A couple of bumps on the ridge en route between Elcho Pass and Mt Ward.", "ascent": "First ascents of both peaks, Jim Dawson, Christopher Johnson, Scott Russell December 1934" } ], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki-tai-poutini/tatare-range/mcfetrick-pk": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki-tai-poutini/tatare-range/mcfetrick-pk", "name": "McFetrick Pk", "altitude": "2188m", "access": null, "description": "Probably named after Alex and Hughie McFetterich, who farmed Tartare Flat. Sometimes traversed en route to or from the head of the Callery River. Frank Pearson, Alan Gill, and Gordon Howitt used this route to exit the Callery via the Gunn River and Price Range at Easter 1964.", "latlng": [ "-43.395444", "170.31847" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki-tai-poutini/tatare-range/mcfetrick-pk/north-west-ridge", "name": "North West Ridge", "grade": "1", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "1", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "From about the 1300-metre contour in the upper Gunn River, head north-west up moraine,\r\nthen scree and snow slopes, to the crest of the range. Easy travel along the range leads to the\r\nsummit.\r\nTo continue to the Callery, follow the range south over normally easy schrunds to Tartare\r\nSaddle. A steep spur at I35 912509 / BX16 812 893 can be used to descend to the valley, where the\r\nCallery River is normally easily crossed below the lake. Traversing around the lake is really only\r\npractical on the true left." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": null } ], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/darrans/darran-mountains/mt-syme": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/darrans/darran-mountains/mt-syme", "name": "Mt Syme", "altitude": "2188m", "access": null, "description": "tba", "latlng": [ "-44.62696866", "168.0321305" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/fiordland/darran-mountains/mt-syme/north-ridge", "name": "North Ridge", "grade": null, "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Chally Bowmar, Alex Dickie, Jim Speden, Kurt Suter, Jan 1936." }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/fiordland/darran-mountains/mt-syme/north-west-face", "name": "North West Face", "grade": null, "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Samuel Turner, March 1920." }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/fiordland/darran-mountains/mt-syme/east-face", "name": "East Face", "grade": null, "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "A small face with generally rotten rock." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Derek Cordes, Keith Dekkers, 1972." } ], "places": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/fiordland/darran-mountains/mt-syme/madelines-skirt", "name": "Madeline's Skirt", "altitude": null, "access": "About 20 mins walk from turners biv rap in an involved rap-in on natural gear", "description": "A series of large cliffs SW west of Turner's Biv. Roughly 20mins walk and an involved rap-in adventure. About 1km due west of Syme.", "latlng": null, "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/fiordland/darran-mountains/mt-syme/madelines-skirt/outside-crack", "name": "Outside Crack", "grade": "21", "topo_ref": null, "image": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/routes/P1010086%202_0.jpeg?itok=4QIJG0q7", "images": [ { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/routes/P1010086%202_0.jpeg?itok=4QIJG0q7", "height": "265", "width": "325" } ], "length": "130m", "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": "40m", "bolts": null, "trad": true, "ewbank": "20", "description": null }, { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": "35m", "bolts": null, "trad": true, "ewbank": "18", "description": null }, { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": "55m", "bolts": null, "trad": true, "ewbank": "21", "description": null } ], "quality": 2, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": true, "description": "From Camp Derek you need to access the front face of the floating buttress. We did this via two pitches starting from the upper right hand side of camp Derek. A rough corner and awkward offwidth finishes with a traverse left and scramble across grassy ledge to reach the bottom of pitch 2.\nQuest upwards through a series of slabby bulges and ledges following whatever gear you can find to a large ledge at the foot of the floating buttress.\nA large horn in the middle makes a good belay for the final pitch.\nThe crack system straight up is loaded with loose blocks, so traversing up and left towards a half vegetated crack going straight up is the more appealing option here. Once at the bottom of this crack system a fiddley handjam traverse takes you into an offwidth system which will provide you a way to attain to the top of the buttress. The angle kicks back at the top so watch your rope drag!\nSolid gear and lots of options, long and steep, rack up double nuts and cams 0.1 to 3, a nut tool racked front of harness for leading, also options for larger gear if you\u2019ve hauled it up with you. You'll need some tat for descending and 60m double ropes.\nDescent back to Camp Derek is 3 abseils on tat slung horns. Please assess the safety of any old rappel anchors and remove old tat, replacing it, and taking the old tat down with you.\n*(initial line unsuccessfully attempted, should go to the top if you fancy a fight)", "ascent": "Derek Cheng, Ben Grindle, February 2021" } ], "places": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/fiordland/darran-mountains/mt-syme/madelines-skirt/floating-buttress", "name": "The Floating Buttress", "altitude": null, "access": null, "description": "A 150m tall and 150m tall \"Floating Buttress\" that is detached from Madeline's Skirt by a 1-1.5m chasm.", "latlng": null, "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/fiordland/darran-mountains/mt-syme/madelines-skirt/floating-buttress/view-within", "name": "The View From Within", "grade": "18", "topo_ref": null, "image": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/routes/P2191834_0.JPG?itok=V6tyGJiG", "images": [ { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/routes/P2191834_0.JPG?itok=V6tyGJiG", "height": "244", "width": "325" }, { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/routes/P2191839.JPG?itok=OABYjJMw", "height": "244", "width": "325" } ], "length": "225m", "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": "40m", "bolts": null, "trad": true, "ewbank": "15", "description": "A wandery pitch to the base of the mega chimney" }, { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": "100m", "bolts": null, "trad": true, "ewbank": "13", "description": "Climb 2-3 pitches of epic chimneying. Little to no protection. But solid belays onto of large chock stones." }, { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": "15m", "bolts": null, "trad": true, "ewbank": "18", "description": "Bridge out of the top of chimney. Short steep hand jam boulder problem to gain belay onto a sofa-sized chock stone." }, { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": "50m", "bolts": null, "trad": true, "ewbank": "8", "description": "Bridge sideways (horizontally) into a deep fold of Madeline's Skirt (the chasm behind the floating buttress). Continue until you find a window looking out through the buttress to the Tutoko River 1000m below." }, { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": "20m", "bolts": null, "trad": true, "ewbank": "17", "description": "Climb inside out crack to the top of the floating buttress. Only grade 12 if you use the wall behind." } ], "quality": 3, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": true, "description": "The largest chimney feature in New Zealand, Combined with a bit of caving and a window to view the Tutoko valley from inside the mountain!", "ascent": "Ben Grindle, Jimmy Finlayson, 19 February 2021" } ], "places": [], "image": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/wide/public/image/P1010086%202_0.JPG?itok=bwuYitOd", "images": [ { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/wide/public/image/P1010086%202_0.JPG?itok=bwuYitOd", "height": "889", "width": "1090" } ] } ], "image": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/wide/public/image/P1010086.JPG?itok=l__ewHgT", "images": [ { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/wide/public/image/P1010086.JPG?itok=l__ewHgT", "height": "818", "width": "1090" }, { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/image/IMG20210317094321_0.jpg?itok=sSQVzuAe", "height": "244", "width": "325" } ] } ], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/big-hill": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/big-hill", "name": "Big Hill", "altitude": "2188m", "access": null, "description": null, "latlng": [ "-43.4403128", "171.01826444" ], "routes": [], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/nelson-lakes/ella-range/mt-magdalene": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/nelson-lakes/ella-range/mt-magdalene", "name": "Mt Magdalene", "altitude": "2187m", "access": null, "description": "Ella Ra", "latlng": [ "-42.11019426", "172.57804871" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/nelson-lakes/ella-range/mt-magdalene/downie-creek-route", "name": "Downie Creek Route", "grade": "1", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": "1", "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "A marked track (overgrown but okay to follow) exists up Downie Creek to campsites near the bush edge. Mt Dorothy is an easy climb from the head of the creek. Mt Magdalene is a pleasant climb up a prominent scree/snow gully to the leading ridge and a rocky knoll at the top." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": null } ], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/canterbury-westland-alps/main-divide/mt-rosamond": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/canterbury-westland-alps/main-divide/mt-rosamond", "name": "Mt Rosamond", "altitude": "2186m", "access": null, "description": null, "latlng": [ "-42.94052773", "171.39058113" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/canterbury-westland-alps/main-divide/mt-rosamond/south-east-ridge", "name": "South East Ridge", "grade": "2", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": "2", "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "Difficult to approach. The more desirable route either climbs the South Ridge from Whitehorn Pass descending onto the Cronin Glacier from the 2059m knoll, or makes a sidle then full ascent of the Cronin Glacier from the pass. Both routes gain the steep, exposed Southeast Ridge to the summit. Whitehorn Pass is reached by sidling the slopes from Harman Pass, then ascending snowslopes to the pass. Beware of deep crevasses on all snow and ice routes in this region." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": null }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/canterbury-westland-alps/main-divide/mt-rosamond/northeast-ridge", "name": "Northeast Ridge", "grade": "18,2+,IV,2", "topo_ref": "E1470535 N5244847", "image": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/2024-02/image227_0.jpg?itok=UEruUQn-", "images": [ { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/2024-02/image227_0.jpg?itok=UEruUQn-", "height": "244", "width": "325" } ], "length": "0m", "pitches": [ { "alpine": "2+", "commitment": "IV", "mtcook": "2", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": "18", "description": null } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": "0", "natural_pro": false, "description": "From Ariels Tarns. Drop northwest down gullies into the stream and cross it, ascending the scree above onto a shoulder of the northeast ridge running to the 1809m point. Continuing on up the NE ridge, the first major obstacle is soon encountered where the ridge narrows to a pinch and is intersected by the vertical fault scrap. The resulting deep notch in the ridge is approx 2m wide, exposed and must be carefully navigated.\nThe final third of the NE ridge feature a couple of gendarmes that can be turned on the Whitehorn Pass side.\nOnce point 2059m is reached, drop onto Cronin Glacier to avoid the initial section of rocky obstacles before regaining the meandering SE ridge of Rosamond and following it to the summit. This involves making your way up through a very loose rock step halfway along the SE ridge.\nNotes: Avalanches sweep the Whitehorn Pass and ice-field area in Winter/Spring. The notch on the ridge is very difficult to climb through, consider your options, and don't fall!", "ascent": "Dave Hegan 16 January 2024" } ], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/canterbury/mt-hutt-range/mt-hutt": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/canterbury/mt-hutt-range/mt-hutt", "name": "Mt Hutt", "altitude": "2185m", "access": null, "description": "On the Mount Hutt Range", "latlng": [ "-43.47138718", "171.52656771" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/canterbury/mt-hutt-range/mt-hutt/little-river-route", "name": "Little river route", "grade": "1-", "topo_ref": null, "image": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/route/Mt%20Hutt%20-Little%20river%20access.jpg?itok=ozOdJe8u", "images": [ { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/route/Mt%20Hutt%20-Little%20river%20access.jpg?itok=ozOdJe8u", "height": "235", "width": "325" } ], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "Follow Blackford Road from the turn-off to the first bridge at Little river by Cleardale farm. Gain ridge on left where ever you feel like it, climb 1700 meters vertical to reach Mt Hutt North Peak.\r\n\r\nOptional 100 meters of loose grade 10 (not recommended) on right near the top.\r\n\r\nDescent-retrace steps (recommended) or descend down valley faster but with risky wet down climbs." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": null } ], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/darrans/darran-mountains/mt-christina-east-pk": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/darrans/darran-mountains/mt-christina-east-pk", "name": "Mt Christina East Pk", "altitude": "2185m", "access": null, "description": null, "latlng": [ "-44.795937", "168.057818" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/darrans/darran-mountains/mt-christina-east-pk/east-ridge", "name": "East Ridge", "grade": null, "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": "Commence as for the South Ridge but cross the gut and move right, reaching\nthe East Ridge at about 1800m. The first ascent party descended onto the\nMarian slopes to bypass Pt 1983, regaining the ridge to reach the East Pk.\nThe East Pk is Pt 2185, not Pt 1983 as shown on the topomap.", "ascent": "Bill Gordon, Morrie Davis, Duncan Wilson, Lloyd Warburton, February 1954" } ], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aspiring/forbes-mountains/pt-2184": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aspiring/forbes-mountains/pt-2184", "name": "Pt 2184", "altitude": "2184m", "access": null, "description": null, "latlng": [ "-44.57931", "168.392778" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aspiring/forbes-mountains/pt-2184/standard-route", "name": "Standard Route", "grade": "I,1", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": "I", "mtcook": "1", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "This unnamed peak has been reached from the West Hunter by following up a small glacial basin and crossing snowfields." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": null } ], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/mt-potts": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/mt-potts", "name": "Mt Potts", "altitude": "2184m", "access": null, "description": null, "latlng": [ "-43.50258305", "170.92469703" ], "routes": [], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aspiring/barrier-range/mallory-pk": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aspiring/barrier-range/mallory-pk", "name": "Mallory Pk", "altitude": "2184m", "access": null, "description": null, "latlng": [ "-44.499873", "168.306638" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aspiring/barrier-range/mallory-pk/standard-routes", "name": "Standard Routes", "grade": null, "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "From Irvine Peak via snow or rock, or from Albert Peak and Betty Peak in the east." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": null } ], "places": [], "image": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/wide/public/image/NN_5%20irvine%2C%20mallory_opt_0.jpeg?itok=1kZApIXA", "images": [ { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/wide/public/image/NN_5%20irvine%2C%20mallory_opt_0.jpeg?itok=1kZApIXA", "height": "415", "width": "553" } ] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/canterbury/ragged-range/hinge-pk": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/canterbury/ragged-range/hinge-pk", "name": "Hinge Pk", "altitude": "2184m", "access": null, "description": null, "latlng": [ "-43.200233", "171.063223" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/canterbury/ragged-range/hinge-pk/cattle-stream", "name": "From Cattle Stream", "grade": null, "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "From Cattle Stream climb scree to a small snowfield and follow the south ridge to Pt 2165\r\nmetres. From here Hinge Peak is a short climb." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "W H Scott, R Scott, March 1934" } ], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/nelson-lakes-kaik%C5%8Dura/raglan-range/pt-2182": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/nelson-lakes-kaik%C5%8Dura/raglan-range/pt-2182", "name": "Pt 2182", "altitude": "2182m", "access": null, "description": "The highest peak in the Raglan Range. Its eastern location means it can be a worthy option when weather is forecast to be marginal on the Main Divide.", "latlng": [ "-41.98647652", "173.03385095" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/nelson-lakes-kaik%C5%8Dura/raglan-range/pt-2182/sw-couloir", "name": "SW Couloir", "grade": "2-", "topo_ref": null, "image": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/routes/PA281841.jpg?itok=e2NuK_ik", "images": [ { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/routes/PA281841.jpg?itok=e2NuK_ik", "height": "217", "width": "325" } ], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "2-", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": null } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": "From the western branch of the Severn River, gain a broad slope above the tarn studded basin at 1650m. This turns into a wide easy couloir. Follow into a short, moderately steep gully (may contain good ice in colder months) to gain the west ridge, then easy slopes to the summit.", "ascent": "Unknown. Description as climbed by T Garden and O Scullion, October 2019." } ], "places": [], "image": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/wide/public/image/PA271753.jpg?itok=BJbgnlNr", "images": [ { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/wide/public/image/PA271753.jpg?itok=BJbgnlNr", "height": "727", "width": "1090" } ] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/main-divide-of-the-southern-alps/mt-bryce": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/main-divide-of-the-southern-alps/mt-bryce", "name": "Mt Bryce", "altitude": "2182m", "access": null, "description": null, "latlng": [ "-43.07412035", "171.19717018" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/main-divide-of-the-southern-alps/mt-bryce/north-ridge", "name": "North Ridge", "grade": "2-", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "2-", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "From the head of the North Mathias River climb the Omatane Glacier to reach the start of the\r\nNorth Ridge. A straightforward climb although the rock is loose in places." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Roger Chester, Alan Willis, John Pascoe, December 1930" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/main-divide-of-the-southern-alps/mt-bryce/south-ridge", "name": "South Ridge", "grade": "1+", "topo_ref": "SR", "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "1+", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "From Unknown Col the ridge is broad at first but steepens below the summit and may require\r\na traverse right onto the face. This is a straightforward climb in good snow conditions but\r\ninvolves some tricky loose rock in late season." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": null }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/main-divide-of-the-southern-alps/mt-bryce/east-ridge", "name": "East Ridge", "grade": "2-", "topo_ref": "ER", "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "2-", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "From the upper Unknown Stream, follow a vague rock buttress to a high point immediately\r\nnorth-east of a small col marking the foot of the East Ridge. Climb into the col then follow\r\nthe ridge to the summit. This is a straightforward climb in good snow conditions, but involves\r\nsome loose rock in late season." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": null }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/main-divide-of-the-southern-alps/mt-bryce/east-ridge-brunswick-creek", "name": "East Ridge from Brunswick Creek", "grade": "1", "topo_ref": "BC", "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "1", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "Brunswick Creek provides straightforward access directly up the branch draining Mt Bryce.\r\nContinue up scree to the south. From the upper Brunswick, fairly easy rock scrambling in late\r\nsummer leads up the north-east face." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Andrew Buglass, 1988" } ], "places": [], "image": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/wide/public/image/Bryce.png?itok=KHmg124c", "images": [ { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/wide/public/image/Bryce.png?itok=KHmg124c", "height": "572", "width": "900" }, { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/image/p266_2.png?itok=tDPyVjgS", "height": "259", "width": "325" } ] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aspiring/barrier-range/gino-pk": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aspiring/barrier-range/gino-pk", "name": "Gino Pk", "altitude": "2180m", "access": null, "description": "Called Watkins in original articles and early sketch maps.", "latlng": [ "-44.494853", "168.34921" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aspiring/barrier-range/gino-pk/stefansson-peak", "name": "From Stefansson Peak", "grade": "II,1", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": "II", "mtcook": "1", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "From Stefansson Peak or via the Derivation neve, the latter being reached from Joe River or Desperation Pass. Best access from Dart via Glacier Col, Forgotten River via Possibility Col, or Dart via Seal Col route. All better than Joe by any route." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": null } ], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/canterbury/mt-kinkel": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/canterbury/mt-kinkel", "name": "Mt Kinkel", "altitude": "2179m", "access": null, "description": "na", "latlng": [ "-43.288765", "170.878859" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/canterbury/mt-kinkel/south-west-ridge", "name": "South West Ridge", "grade": "1", "topo_ref": "SW", "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "1", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "A straightforward climb from partway up the Cockayne Glacier." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "John Pascoe, W B (Basil) Honour, Wyn Barnett, December 1931" } ], "places": [], "image": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/wide/public/image/Kinkel.png?itok=eErHd_B-", "images": [ { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/wide/public/image/Kinkel.png?itok=eErHd_B-", "height": "691", "width": "900" } ] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/otago/bealey-range/mt-marshman": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/otago/bealey-range/mt-marshman", "name": "Mt Marshman", "altitude": "2177m", "access": null, "description": "Bealey Range", "latlng": [ "-43.98516434", "169.56976601" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/otago/bealey-range/mt-marshman/hunter-valley", "name": "From the Hunter Valley", "grade": "2", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "2", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": null } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": "TBA", "ascent": "Peter Child and Stuart Ombler, January 1952" } ], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/otago/elcho%E2%80%93huxley-ridges/gillies-pk": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/otago/elcho%E2%80%93huxley-ridges/gillies-pk", "name": "Gillies Pk", "altitude": "2177m", "access": null, "description": "TBA", "latlng": [ "-43.9366", "169.7957" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/otago/elcho%E2%80%93huxley-ridges/gillies-pk/north-face", "name": "North Face", "grade": "1", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "1", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": null } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": "From the mid South Elcho follow a subsidiary stream east, and ascend the\nsummit pyramid. Descent can be via the steepish east face, and stream to the\nHopkins Valley.", "ascent": "First ascent unknown. Scramble" } ], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/darrans/darran-mountains/mt-revelation": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/darrans/darran-mountains/mt-revelation", "name": "Mt Revelation", "altitude": "2176m", "access": null, "description": null, "latlng": [ "-44.681409", "168.049716" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/darrans/darran-mountains/mt-revelation/south-ridge", "name": "South Ridge", "grade": null, "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "A classic alpine ridge rising out of Moraine Creek. Some short steep sections provide exposed travel.\r\nThe ridge has been used as an access route for lightweight parties entering the Te Puoho Glacier" } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Mike Gill, M Hutchins, April 1965." }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/darrans/darran-mountains/mt-revelation/south-east-ridge", "name": "South East Ridge", "grade": null, "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "John Cocks, Pete Glasson, Feb 1971." }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/darrans/darran-mountains/mt-revelation/north-ridge", "name": "North Ridge", "grade": null, "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "From the Korako Glacier through Crampon Pass to the North Ridge.\r\n An easy scramble from Crampon pass." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Lindsay Stewart, Jim Dakin, Jack Warren, Dec 1936." }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/darrans/darran-mountains/mt-revelation/east-ridge", "name": "East Ridge", "grade": null, "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "The ridge from Crampon Pass." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "John Cocks, Al Smith, Richard Whinham, Pete Glasson, Jan 1972." } ], "places": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/darrans/darran-mountains/mt-revelation/donne-face", "name": "Donne Face", "altitude": null, "access": "There is a reasonable 3\u20134 person bivvy rock in scrubby bush at the head of the Donne River, at about CB09 061 401.", "description": "The head of the Donne Valley is a massive wall stretching between the peaks of Karetai and Revelation. All the routes are long and committing. Descents from the face are lengthy. Turners Eyrie is a good initial destination. Parties have opted to traverse Underwood, descending the South Ridge, but this is difficult and time consuming. Dropping down the Taoka Ice-fall may be possible when in condition, otherwise exit using one of the routes out of the Central Darrans. Traversing Revelation into the Korako Glacier and thence to Moraine Creek is another possibility.", "latlng": null, "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/fiordland/darran-mountains/revelation/donne-face/big-easy", "name": "The Big Easy", "grade": "22,IV", "topo_ref": "1", "image": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/route/Big-Easy.jpg?itok=QaP4PRbx", "images": [ { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/route/Big-Easy.jpg?itok=QaP4PRbx", "height": "325", "width": "319" } ], "length": "600m", "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": "IV", "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": "600m", "bolts": null, "trad": true, "ewbank": "22", "description": null } ], "quality": 1, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": true, "description": "Start from between the two snow patches at the bottom of the face. A\nnear-continuous crack line (fingers to off-width) on the left side of the\nface, where the best rock is. Take a rising traverse left for a couple of\npitches, then straight up. The crux is a short, steep wall on pitch 5.\nFourteen pitches in all. Exit was via the South Ridge of Karetai to Turners\nEyrie.", "ascent": "Richard Thomson, Dave Vass, February 2012" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/fiordland/darran-mountains/revelation/donne-face/original-route", "name": "Original Route", "grade": null, "topo_ref": "2", "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": "From the flats at the head of the valley take some ledges left to the middle\nsection of the face where a rope may be required for short steps, then\ncontinue up through the obvious corner, finishing left of the summit. The\nupper third breaks into easy ledges. The party accessed the route from\nMoraine Creek via Darran Pass, spent a day or so on the wall, and returned to\nMoraine Creek via the Korako ledges.", "ascent": "Bill Denz, Phil Herron, Murray Judge, January 1974" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/fiordland/darran-mountains/revelation/donne-face/whiston-anderson-roxburgh", "name": "Whiston Anderson Roxburgh", "grade": null, "topo_ref": "3", "image": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/route/Anderson-Roxburgh-Whiston.jpeg?itok=WCSArQMj", "images": [ { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/route/Anderson-Roxburgh-Whiston.jpeg?itok=WCSArQMj", "height": "244", "width": "325" } ], "length": null, "pitches": [], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": "Climb steep grassy gullies in the lower third of the face, traversing left to\nledges. Tend right then straight up the middle of the face directly in line\nwith the summit. Pitch after pitch of great climbing on clean rock. On the\nlast third of the face tend right on increasingly easier ground, finishing\njust right of the summit.", "ascent": "Neal Whiston, Warwick Anderson, Graeme Roxburgh, April 1976" } ], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/darrans/darran-mountains/mt-revelation/cirque-climbables", "name": "Cirque of the Climbables", "altitude": null, "access": null, "description": "This is the cirque of beautiful red rock mid-way between Crampon Pass and the summit of Mt Revelation.", "latlng": null, "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/fiordland/darran-mountains/revelation/cirque-of-the-climbables/hooter", "name": "Hooter", "grade": "14,I", "topo_ref": null, "image": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/route/hooter.jpg?itok=CbXZT39O", "images": [ { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/route/hooter.jpg?itok=CbXZT39O", "height": "325", "width": "244" } ], "length": "200m", "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": "I", "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": "200m", "bolts": null, "trad": true, "ewbank": "14", "description": "Four pitches on the trunk of red rock marking the left edge of the cirque. Start from ledges on the left or more direct (an extra though short two-pitches, about 22 and 18)." } ], "quality": 2, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": true, "description": null, "ascent": "John McCallum, Tom Riley, James Spiers, Richard Thomson, Dave Vass, February 2013" } ], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] } ], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/canterbury/two-thumb-range/paris": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/canterbury/two-thumb-range/paris", "name": "Paris", "altitude": "2175m", "access": null, "description": "tba", "latlng": [ "-43.61435258", "170.6947772" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/canterbury/two-thumb-range/paris/south-ridge", "name": "South Ridge", "grade": "1", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "1", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "From North East Gorge Stream gain the long South Ridge before bluffs on the eastern face\r\nare encountered, and follow the ridge to the top. Any apparent difficulties are readily avoided." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": null }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/canterbury/two-thumb-range/paris/two-thumb-stream", "name": "From Two Thumb Stream", "grade": null, "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "A straightforward climb, with occasional steep towers of rotten rock but no difficulties." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": null } ], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/2175": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/2175", "name": "Pt 2175", "altitude": "2175m", "access": null, "description": null, "latlng": [ "-44.3103571", "169.27998894" ], "routes": [], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/%C5%8Dhau-landsborough/main-divide/mt-armstrong": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/%C5%8Dhau-landsborough/main-divide/mt-armstrong", "name": "Mt Armstrong", "altitude": "2174m", "access": null, "description": null, "latlng": [ "-44.09418123", "169.42892075" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/%C5%8Dhau-landsborough/main-divide/mt-armstrong/south-east-ridge", "name": "South East Ridge", "grade": null, "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": "Climbed circa 2010 according to an entry in the Makarora Hut Book. Can't\nrecall who did it. They climbed from the David Glacier and I imagine the rock\nwas unpleasant.", "ascent": "~2010" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/%C5%8Dhau-landsborough/main-divide/mt-armstrong/north-west-ridge", "name": "North West Ridge", "grade": "1-", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": null } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": "From Brewster Hut. Has been skied, bum slid, tobogganed and all sorts. Makes\na great introductory peak when plastered with winter snow.", "ascent": null } ], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/canterbury/froude-range/review-pk": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/canterbury/froude-range/review-pk", "name": "Review Pk", "altitude": "2174m", "access": null, "description": null, "latlng": [ "-43.32032331", "170.8153806" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/canterbury/froude-range/review-pk/north-west-ridge", "name": "North West Ridge", "grade": "1+", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "1+", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "From McCoy Col scramble along the rocky North West Ridge to the top." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": null }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/canterbury/froude-range/review-pk/south-west-ridge", "name": "South West Ridge", "grade": "2-", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "2-", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "Gain the South West Ridge from the upper McCoy Glacier and follow snow and rock to the\r\nsummit" } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": null } ], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/dillon-cone": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/dillon-cone", "name": "Dillon Cone", "altitude": "2173m", "access": null, "description": null, "latlng": [ "-42.27169014", "173.22426568" ], "routes": [], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/%C5%8Dhau-landsborough/main-divide/adams-pk": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/%C5%8Dhau-landsborough/main-divide/adams-pk", "name": "Adams Pk", "altitude": "2169m", "access": null, "description": null, "latlng": [ "-43.9605", "169.6478" ], "routes": [], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/nelson-lakes-kaik%C5%8Dura/raglan-range/pt-2169": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/nelson-lakes-kaik%C5%8Dura/raglan-range/pt-2169", "name": "Pt 2169", "altitude": "2169m", "access": null, "description": null, "latlng": [ "-41.982871", "172.986982" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/nelson-lakes-kaik%C5%8Dura/raglan-range/pt-2169/north-east-face", "name": "North East Face", "grade": "2", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": "2", "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "" } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": "Easy travel beyond Pt 1144 metres into the southern head of Lees Creek, where there is a delightful campsite under beech trees at the junction of the two southern feeder streams. Open forest and then scree leads to a large basin under the peak. Climb an obvious shallow gully to the top.", "ascent": null } ], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/canterbury/ben-ohau-range/mt-brown": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/canterbury/ben-ohau-range/mt-brown", "name": "Mt Brown", "altitude": "2168m", "access": null, "description": "The central buttress on the south face of Mt Brown contains excellent quality rock, best viewed from the upper valley of Bush Stream.", "latlng": [ "-43.8457", "170.047" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/canterbury/ben-ohau-range/mt-brown/south-west-face", "name": "South West Face", "grade": "2,II", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": "2", "commitment": "II", "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": null } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": "From the upper reaches of Bush Stream, plod up the scree slopes and scramble to the summit.", "ascent": "Andy Macfarlane, 1995" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/canterbury/ben-ohau-range/mt-brown/actions-speak-louder", "name": "Actions Speak Louder", "grade": "19,6,IV", "topo_ref": "ASL", "image": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/route/Actions%20Speak%20Louder.jpg?itok=m_CE8Bd7", "images": [ { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/route/Actions%20Speak%20Louder.jpg?itok=m_CE8Bd7", "height": "244", "width": "325" }, { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/route/Bush%20Stream%20044.jpg?itok=Uux7sQhW", "height": "325", "width": "244" } ], "length": "550m", "pitches": [ { "alpine": "6", "commitment": "IV", "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": "550m", "bolts": null, "trad": true, "ewbank": "19", "description": null } ], "quality": 1, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": true, "description": "This route on the central buttress on the south face has gained a reputation as one of New Zealand\u2019s classic alpine rock routes. It begins at a higher level than the surrounding rock. Steep, awkward strata, overhangs and a prominent blackness make this the prominent line. Forcing past overhangs gives pause for thought on the first buttress. The second half of the route follows a prow up a series of towers. Pinnacles on the upper section were avoided on the right side during the first ascent but have been climbed direct (Bill McLeod, March 1996). Finish on the fangs. Truly a feast. Cruxes too numerous to mention.", "ascent": "Ross Cullen, Bill McLeod, December 1995" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/canterbury/ben-ohau-range/mt-brown/mandate", "name": "Mandate", "grade": "20,6,IV", "topo_ref": "M", "image": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/route/BB022T_0.jpg?itok=DmcKNLW9", "images": [ { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/route/BB022T_0.jpg?itok=DmcKNLW9", "height": "325", "width": "226" }, { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/route/South%20Face.jpg?itok=ATJbisrp", "height": "244", "width": "325" }, { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/2024-05/20210222_085657.jpg?itok=IAHoMf2n", "height": "244", "width": "325" }, { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/2024-05/20210222_123852.jpg?itok=1Lqp15U_", "height": "244", "width": "325" } ], "length": "450m", "pitches": [ { "alpine": "6", "commitment": "IV", "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": "450m", "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": "20", "description": null } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": "0", "natural_pro": false, "description": "Beginning on a small block, climb a clean face on the left side of the south-east facing concave wall. Higher up, tend left to gain a grassy groove beneath the great black corner and head straight up. On reaching the terrace, head up ledges to gain the headwall. Follow the arrow-straight corner/crack system that runs on a slight diagonal the entire height of this wall. The rock is compact and solid, predominantly vertical, but can be damp in places. Requires a positive attitude.", "ascent": "Bill McLeod, Chris Warburton, January 1997" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/canterbury/ben-ohau-range/mt-brown/no-more-words", "name": "No More Words", "grade": "20,6+,IV", "topo_ref": null, "image": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/route/South%20Face_0.jpg?itok=cDbLPi8l", "images": [ { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/route/South%20Face_0.jpg?itok=cDbLPi8l", "height": "244", "width": "325" } ], "length": "400m", "pitches": [ { "alpine": "6+", "commitment": "IV", "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": "400m", "bolts": null, "trad": true, "ewbank": "20", "description": null } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": true, "description": "The route ascends an obvious feature \u2013 \u2018The Rocket\u2019 \u2013 on the right side of the bluff. Immaculate rock, few options, small gear protection, and the top three pitches are sustained grade 20 climbing.", "ascent": "Bill McLeod, February 1995" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/canterbury/ben-ohau-range/mt-brown/south-east-ridge", "name": "South East Ridge", "grade": "1,I", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": "1", "commitment": "I", "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": null } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": "Climb the spur at BY15 654 394 through open beech forest to the tussock terrace (delightful camping). Follow the ridge, keeping the four tarns on your right, cut through the spur at BY15 633 414, and veer around to the summit knob.", "ascent": "Noel Pullan, Diane Mellish, March 2002" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/canterbury/ben-ohau-range/mt-brown/north-face", "name": "North Face", "grade": "1+,I", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": "1+", "commitment": "I", "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": null } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": "Go up Freds Stream for 3.5km, climb the steepening tussock slopes to reach the alpine meadows, and plod to the summit.", "ascent": "First ascent unknown" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/canterbury/ben-ohau-range/mt-brown/afterthought", "name": "Afterthought", "grade": "20", "topo_ref": null, "image": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/2024-05/received_441644103746039.jpeg?itok=Obf5tuAf", "images": [ { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/2024-05/received_441644103746039.jpeg?itok=Obf5tuAf", "height": "325", "width": "244" }, { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/2024-05/151218435_198288258737988_6545934765250277514_n.jpg?itok=jGj1CzwK", "height": "325", "width": "241" }, { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/2024-05/20210222_185005.jpg?itok=TLkaQj9V", "height": "244", "width": "325" }, { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/2024-05/20210222_175826.jpg?itok=YA7XlWc7", "height": "244", "width": "325" }, { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/2024-05/20210222_182759.jpg?itok=RkEplYJP", "height": "244", "width": "325" }, { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/2024-05/20210222_180103.jpg?itok=VJWiYU3-", "height": "244", "width": "325" }, { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/2024-05/received_753615928890300.jpeg?itok=Ofwy07Zj", "height": "325", "width": "244" }, { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/2024-05/20210222_190317.jpg?itok=TNLgBA1_", "height": "244", "width": "325" }, { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/2024-05/20210222_204651.jpg?itok=t0z0gVsi", "height": "244", "width": "325" } ], "length": "55m", "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": "55m", "bolts": null, "trad": true, "ewbank": "20", "description": "Gear and length not remembered - but the amazing climbing is! Start in a vertical 90-degree corner, jamming the crack that widens through hands to fist. Pull over the top onto a ledge, then finish up face cracks past/over a final ledge to build a natural belay on the rib above. Take all the cams you have along for the day. Gear on FA was up to #3 camalot which should find a place on this." } ], "quality": 3, "bolts": "0", "natural_pro": true, "description": "As for Centrefire (in fact, we liked it more): amongst the finest climbing in the mountains. It exemplifies Ben Ohaus climbing - far from the road (but easily day-trippable), questionable from a distance... but spectacular holds and movement! This is superb single pitch crack is easily tacked onto an ascent of Actions Speak Louder, or A Thoughtful Pause.\n1 minute into the walk-off upvalley from either route (if not carrying on for the complete 'Actions' over the towers/fangs above), a square-cut gully is obvious below with a square-cut corner crack up the edge of a giant flake on the right side. This is Afterthought. Scramble carefully down the gully and build a natural belay near the base. From the top, walk/scramble back along the crest of the gully to rejoin your backpack and descent route. Note that the entire giant rock flake/slab forming the corner is inherently unstable - one day it will no longer be there (however no obvious hollowness or signs of instability during FA). Large Stacked plates on the upper ledges require care with holds and arranging your ropes - but many visible in the photos were cleaned after photos taken.\nBring: Gear.", "ascent": "Ruari Macfarlane, Taichiro Naka, Feb 2021" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/canterbury/ben-ohau-range/mt-brown/thoughtful-pause", "name": "A Thoughtful Pause", "grade": "19", "topo_ref": null, "image": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/2024-05/20210223_171616.jpg?itok=W7zA0vcG", "images": [ { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/2024-05/20210223_171616.jpg?itok=W7zA0vcG", "height": "325", "width": "244" }, { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/2024-05/20210223_171755.jpg?itok=0-0Pof6I", "height": "244", "width": "325" }, { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/2024-05/20210222_090200.jpg?itok=r-ZQpEhp", "height": "244", "width": "325" }, { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/2024-05/20210222_090901.jpg?itok=uh10kJNw", "height": "244", "width": "325" }, { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/2024-05/20210222_094436.jpg?itok=cx_URLqK", "height": "244", "width": "325" }, { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/2024-05/20210222_110357.jpg?itok=4UGV-81F", "height": "244", "width": "325" }, { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/2024-05/20210222_125203.jpg?itok=9YDrgkzc", "height": "244", "width": "325" }, { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/2024-05/20210222_125430.jpg?itok=MXbV_aBb", "height": "244", "width": "325" }, { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/2024-05/20210222_132739.jpg?itok=ihYCVdoq", "height": "244", "width": "325" }, { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/2024-05/20210222_143011.jpg?itok=a9bwZXWu", "height": "244", "width": "325" }, { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/2024-05/20210222_143340.jpg?itok=sKqj0zLN", "height": "244", "width": "325" }, { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/2024-05/20210222_150549.jpg?itok=wQknolqT", "height": "244", "width": "325" }, { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/2024-05/20210222_172841.jpg?itok=9V9ckb8r", "height": "244", "width": "325" }, { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/2024-05/received_237058241259301.jpeg?itok=x_Ipw3DP", "height": "325", "width": "244" } ], "length": "370m", "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": "370m", "bolts": "10", "trad": true, "ewbank": "19", "description": "Mixed pro. Bring a decent rack. Gear to #3 was carried on FA but can't recall what was used. Nuts and smallish cams will see plenty of action. Start in the left-most possible gully, following a crack on the right wall for 10-ish meters before moving up and right (following the odd bolt). Finish in cracks around the right side of the crest. 2-3 pitches to terrace (crux 17?) and upper pitches of Mandate / No more Words. These anchors on this lower half of the wall are probably bolted ( upper wall possibly gear or bolt +gear anchors). \r\n\r\nThen either climb 'Mandate' or 'No More Words', OR walk left to several further pitches (climbing to at least 19/20, see photos) to eventually join the crest of 'Actions Speak Louder' at the top of the wall (where it turns to towers on a ridge). Either continue on over the upper towers of 'Actions....' or walk off upvalley / climbers left. An optional single pitch of exceptional climbing is an excellent way to round off the day: Near the top of the descent look down the boxy gully to your left to the single-pitch trad route 'Afterthought' on the right wall. Drop your pack, scramble carefully down and give it a crack!" } ], "quality": 1, "bolts": "10", "natural_pro": true, "description": "A nod to both Bill Mcleod, and the relationship status of one of the ascentionists. This route avoids the 'positive attitude' climbing required for the lower wall of Mandate (which appears rather green and runout), giving an enjoyable and rapid access to the terrace partway up Mt Brown, and the upper tier of Mandate and No More Words (both look excellent). The remainder if the route gives agreeable and somewhat exciting climbing to join Actions Speak Louder at the end of the neccessary difficulties (and optional walkoff).\nFollow wall below Mandate up a grassy ramp/gut on the left to a buttress at the left side of the wall. Starting from a gully on the left, the route then trends right and up the clean face of the buttress - thin climbing on quality rock.\nA direct start could easily be rap bolted from the first pitch (FA was lead bolted), extending the quality climbing by a pitch or so.\n(The steep pillar beside the lower-wall chimney of Mandate also is striking and could form a fantastic route if bolted.)\nDetails (grade, pitches, length, number bolts) were not recorded at time and are poorly remembered, so your sense of adventure is preserved.\n2-3 long pitches to the terrace (we think), past spaced bolts and gear. Scrambling leads to approx. 3 more pitches, mainly (all?) on gear. Descent is by scramble/walk off upvalley after crossing 'Actions' (or as for NMW / Mandate, if finishing by those routes).\nDave Brash and Steve Carr previously established several pitches of a new pitches into the scoop just right of the lower half of this route, although this wasn't completed to the terrace.", "ascent": "Taichiro Naka, Ruari Macfarlane, Feb 2021" } ], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/%C5%8Dhau-landsborough/huxley-range/pt-2167": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/%C5%8Dhau-landsborough/huxley-range/pt-2167", "name": "Pt 2167", "altitude": "2167m", "access": null, "description": null, "latlng": [ "-44.2050212508", "169.560827233" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/%C5%8Dhau-landsborough/huxley-range/pt-2167/little-canyon-creek", "name": "From Little Canyon Creek", "grade": "13", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": "13", "description": null } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": "Ascend Little Canyon Creek and when at 1100m altitude climb northward following a side stream to reach a shelf on the east side of the peak. Climb up towards the summit pyramid and scramble to summit (grade 12\u201313 rock).", "ascent": "Matt Vandenberg, January 2005" } ], "places": [], "image": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/wide/public/image/p2167sm.jpg?itok=649lE6bI", "images": [ { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/wide/public/image/p2167sm.jpg?itok=649lE6bI", "height": "200", "width": "296" } ] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/darrans/darran-mountains/paranui-pk": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/darrans/darran-mountains/paranui-pk", "name": "Paranui Pk", "altitude": "2167m", "access": null, "description": null, "latlng": [ "-44.57178105", "167.9787587" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/darrans/darran-mountains/paranui-pk/original-route", "name": "Original Route", "grade": null, "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Marie Byles, Tom Cameron, Kurt Sutter, March 1937." }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/darrans/darran-mountains/paranui-pk/south-ridge", "name": "South Ridge", "grade": null, "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Ian Cave, J Nichols, 1959." } ], "places": [], "image": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/wide/public/image/Grave_0.jpg?itok=-uH-GBXt", "images": [ { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/wide/public/image/Grave_0.jpg?itok=-uH-GBXt", "height": "227", "width": "320" } ] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/nelson-lakes-kaik%C5%8Dura/crimea-range/mt-dora": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/nelson-lakes-kaik%C5%8Dura/crimea-range/mt-dora", "name": "Mt Dora", "altitude": "2167m", "access": null, "description": "Mt Dora is at the junction of Turk Ridge and the Crimea Range.", "latlng": [ "-42.13616796", "172.72619247" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/nelson-lakes-kaik%C5%8Dura/crimea-range/mt-dora/north-ridge", "name": "North Ridge", "grade": "1", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": "1", "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "Climb a tussock ridge south-east of Paske Saddle stream and then a narrow ridge (or a shelf) to Mt Dora. Mt Guinevere is to the south-west of Dora." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": null }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/nelson-lakes-kaik%C5%8Dura/crimea-range/mt-dora/south-east-ridge", "name": "South East Ridge", "grade": "2", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": "2", "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "Easy riverbed travel from Island Gully Hut Upper Wairau Rv, leads to a pleasant campsite at the junction of the two source streams of the Wairau. Climb easy slopes from the eastern source stream onto the ridge, north of peak 1820m. Scramble over several minor bumps and narrow rocky sections till below a steep buttress guarding the summit pyramid. Follow leads up on ledges and steep but generally sound rock on the eastern side till above the buttress. Scramble along narrow ridges to the top. The easiest descent (or ascent) is north-east down Turk Ridge, then easy scree into the head of the stream. Mt Guinevere is an easy scramble south-west of Dora." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": null }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/nelson-lakes-kaik%C5%8Dura/crimea-range/mt-dora/south-gullies", "name": "South Gullies", "grade": "2", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": "2", "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "Follow the western source stream of the Wairau, bypassing a waterfall on the true left, into a scree basin and tarn. A steepening snow-filled couloir tops out above the buttress of SE Ridge route." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": null } ], "places": [], "image": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/wide/public/image/1-PB140180.JPG?itok=rlqvm1kp", "images": [ { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/wide/public/image/1-PB140180.JPG?itok=rlqvm1kp", "height": "675", "width": "900" } ] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aspiring/west-wanaka-mountains/dragonfly-pk": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aspiring/west-wanaka-mountains/dragonfly-pk", "name": "Dragonfly Pk", "altitude": "2165m", "access": null, "description": "The name, one of several in the East Maukituki with aeronautical connotations, commemorates a Dragonfly aircraft that went missing without trace, possibly in the Mount Aspiring area in 1962. The first recorded ascent of the peak was made by Paul Powell and Bruce Moore in March 1962, from the South Albert Burn Saddle.", "latlng": [ "-44.40931375", "168.87909331" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aspiring/west-wanaka-mountains/dragonfly-pk/north-ridge", "name": "North Ridge", "grade": "1,I", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": "1", "commitment": "I", "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "" } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": "From Junction Flat cross the East Matukituki and follow the marked track up through the bush on the north side of Hester Pinney Creek. Above the bush easy tussock slopes lead around to the South Albert Burn Saddle. From the saddle follow the straightforward tussock and rock of the North Ridge to the summit. This would take about seven to eight hours from the river.", "ascent": "Paul Powell, Bruce Moore, March 1962" } ], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/darrans/earl-mountains/ngatimamoe-pk": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/darrans/earl-mountains/ngatimamoe-pk", "name": "Ngatimamoe Pk", "altitude": "2164m", "access": null, "description": null, "latlng": [ "-44.84369302", "168.03266737" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/darrans/earl-mountains/ngatimamoe-pk/south-east-ridge", "name": "South East Ridge", "grade": "13", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": "13", "description": "From the head of Mistake Creek climb the avalanche fan, sidling through bluffs to the ridge. The ridge is firm slabby rock to start, becoming more broken higher up.\r\n The route was descended via the West Ridge back into Mistake Creek." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Harold Jacobs, Sandy Macpherson, Feb 1964." }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/darrans/earl-mountains/ngatimamoe-pk/south-ridge", "name": "South Ridge", "grade": null, "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "From the lower glacier climb slabs up towards the face, gaining a spur that leads directly to the South Ridge and summit. The climbing is quite thin on the traverse across to the foot of the spur in the centre of the face." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Austin Brookes, Paul Frude, Mar 1971." }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/darrans/earl-mountains/ngatimamoe-pk/north-east-ridge", "name": "North East Ridge", "grade": null, "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "Follow the tributary through a narrow gorge towards the col at the foot of the South East Ridge. Cross the slopes below the East Face to the North East Ridge then continue to summit. The ridge can also be reached by struggling up the steep bush spur out of Falls Creek on the true left of the gorge.\r\nThe original party climbed to the col from the Mistake Creek flats." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Dick Ferris, Arthur Hynd, Gordon Lindsay, Arch Smiley, April 1934." }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/darrans/earl-mountains/ngatimamoe-pk/west-ridge", "name": "West Ridge", "grade": null, "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "Shattered rock and very loose. \r\nThe party descended the North East Ridge." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Bill Gordon, David Henderson, Ralph Miller, 1960." } ], "places": [], "image": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/wide/public/image/D53.jpg?itok=Mh1Vrjj3", "images": [ { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/wide/public/image/D53.jpg?itok=Mh1Vrjj3", "height": "340", "width": "428" } ] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/arthurs-pass/black-range/mt-gizeh": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/arthurs-pass/black-range/mt-gizeh", "name": "Mt Gizeh", "altitude": "2162m", "access": null, "description": "Mt Gizeh was first climbed by John Pascoe, R E (Gran) Clark and A G Flower in 1930.\nA rock, scree and snow slope peak, climbed preferably from a high camp in the basins at the head of the Anti Crow River.", "latlng": [ "-43.03059615", "171.43924713" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/arthurs-pass/black-range/mt-gizeh/anti-crow-river", "name": "From Anti Crow River", "grade": "1", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": "1", "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": null } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": "From the high basins at the head of the Anti Crow River, climb to the summit\nfrom either Echo Col or Gizeh Col.", "ascent": "R E Clark, John Pascoe, A G Flower, 19 April 1930" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/arthurs-pass/black-range/mt-gizeh/north-ridge", "name": "North Ridge", "grade": "1", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "1", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "A straightforward ridge climb from Gizeh Col." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": null }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/arthurs-pass/black-range/mt-gizeh/echo-col", "name": "From Echo Col", "grade": "1", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "1", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "A short simple climb." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": null }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/arthurs-pass/black-range/mt-gizeh/northeast-face", "name": "Northeast Face", "grade": "3,III,2", "topo_ref": null, "image": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/routes/image223.jpg?itok=xm87UMcx", "images": [ { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/routes/image223.jpg?itok=xm87UMcx", "height": "229", "width": "325" } ], "length": "200m", "pitches": [ { "alpine": "3", "commitment": "III", "mtcook": "2", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": "200m", "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": null } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": "(Summer) Access to the north-east face is easily gained via an obvious gully at the base of the face. From here follow a series of gullies and ledges, heading up diagonally to the climbers left, through very loose, shattered rock until you reach the summit ridge which can then can be traversed to the summit itself. Descend via Gizeh Col, or via the much steeper and looser Echo Col route.", "ascent": "Dave Hegan 6th February 2021" } ], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/fiordland/darran-mountains/sabre-pk": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/fiordland/darran-mountains/sabre-pk", "name": "Sabre Pk", "altitude": "2162m", "access": "From Phil\u2019s Bivvy\nDrop down and across the basin towards the main waterfall below the North Buttress of Sabre, which often has a large avalanche cone at its base. Cross the stream 100m down from the foot of the waterfall to slabs on the north side, climbing these to a narrow ledge leading left, up and across a grassy gut to a short rock slab. At the top go left to a short waterfall and then diagonally right up a rock ramp to a large terrace. Take the second gully at the right-hand end to the foot of the North Buttress, then continue to Sabre Adelaide Col, or head right over rock and snow to the Marian Sabre Col.\nDescent off Sabre Peak\nThe East Ridge is the usual summer descent. From the summit drop down the north-east face then follow ledges down and right for 150m, slowly traversing back to the East Ridge above the large gendarme. It is possible to abseil this section, two 60m raps. A small flat ledge located at the base of the gendarme runs across the wall and two separate rap lines with fixed slings descend from the ledge to the col. One of these follows a gully and is found by traversing the ledge west for 50m.\nDescent off Sabre Peak in winter\nThere are three options. All are quite involved.\n\nDown the East Ridge to the Sabre Adelaide Col and back into the Marian valley; conditions on the glacier vary depending on the season.\nDown the East Ridge to the Sabre Adelaide Col then descend the northern slopes to Phil\u2019s Bivvy in Moraine Creek.\nDown the West Ridge, then traverse Marian and Barrier heading for Gertrude Saddle; the quickest way to Homer Hut.", "description": "New Zealand\u2019s best rockclimbing peak \u2013 Murray Judge, NZAJ, 1984. A thin blade of rock sitting astride the narrow ridge that separates Moraine Creek and Marian Creek.", "latlng": [ "-44.74716781", "168.05225442" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/fiordland/darran-mountains/sabre-pk/east-ridge", "name": "East Ridge", "grade": null, "topo_ref": "1", "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "From the Sabre Adelaide Col traverse 5m left then climb a steep pitch onto the ridge. Move right up a slab to a short chimney and groove above. From this point the ridge may be climbed directly, or follow easier broken ledges slanting right towards the top of the North Buttress and up the broken ridge to the top." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Bill Gordon, Bryce Wood, Dal Ryan, Dec, 1954." }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/fiordland/darran-mountains/sabre-pk/west-ridge", "name": "West Ridge", "grade": null, "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "The ridge rises in two steps from the Marian Sabre Col; these are usually climbed on the right (south) side. Near the summit the ridge is cut by a deep notch but this can be by-passed via ledges on the north side." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Phil Houghton, Mike Gill, Feb 1959." }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/fiordland/darran-mountains/sabre-pk/west-ridge-winter-ascent", "name": "West Ridge (Winter Ascent)", "grade": null, "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "The west ridge was accessed via the north-west face, five pitches to the ridge then exposed travel to the summit.\r\nThe summit was reached in a long day from Homer Hut, with a bivvy at the Sabre Marian col on descent." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Merv English (solo), July 1977." } ], "places": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/fiordland/darran-mountains/sabre-pk/south-face", "name": "South Face", "altitude": null, "access": null, "description": "The south face contains some excellent long alpine rock routes, but parties will need to move extremely fast and travel light if they do not want a cold night out on the face.\n\u2018The South Face of Sabre is perhaps the best classical rock climb in this fair land.\u2019 Murray Jones.", "latlng": null, "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/fiordland/darran-mountains/sabre-pk/south-face/walk-line", "name": "Walk the Line", "grade": "6,VI,WI5", "topo_ref": "WTL", "image": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/route/sabre%20sf_winter.jpg?itok=3tyOR9Rp", "images": [ { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/route/sabre%20sf_winter.jpg?itok=3tyOR9Rp", "height": "312", "width": "325" } ], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": "6", "commitment": "VI", "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": "WI5", "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": null } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Daniel Joll, Steve Fortune, October 2012" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/fiordland/darran-mountains/sabre-pk/south-face/big-corner", "name": "The Big Corner", "grade": null, "topo_ref": "1", "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "Climb the slabs toward the Marian Sabre Col, traversing into the face via a ledge system below the overhangs. Two points of aid through the right side of the overhang, then 300m up the corner to the notch on the West Ridge." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Stu Allan, Bill Denz, Feb 1978." }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/fiordland/darran-mountains/sabre-pk/south-face/big-corner-variation", "name": "The Big Corner Variation", "grade": "18", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": "18", "description": "Climb initial slabs to directly below the left side of the central overhang. Traverse to the right end of the overhang, then climb through on great holds and good gear, crux. Trend left and up on slabs for two rope lengths before gaining the \u2018big corner\u2019. The corner itself goes free at grade 17." } ], "quality": 2, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Andy Macfarlane, John McCartney, 1996." }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/fiordland/darran-mountains/sabre-pk/south-face/natural-progression", "name": "Natural Progression", "grade": "20", "topo_ref": "3", "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": "20", "description": null } ], "quality": 2, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": "Start as for the Big Corner then from the right-hand end of the central\noverhangs move out left onto a beautifully exposed ar\u00eate. The ar\u00eate is\nfollowed to the West Ridge.\n\n\n\nClimb through right-side of central overhang then trend up and left.\n2-3) Trending up and left on easygoing slabs.\n\n\nFollow crack onto ar\u00eate to rock horn belay.\nUp ar\u00eate trending left, belay left of hanging flake.\nClimb double cracks, belay at bottom of corner.\nFollow line of weakness up to broken ledges and West Ridge.", "ascent": "Allan Uren, Greg Beisly, Jan 1997." }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/fiordland/darran-mountains/sabre-pk/south-face/natural-progression-direct-start", "name": "Natural Progression Direct Start", "grade": "21", "topo_ref": "4", "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": "21", "description": null } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": "Take a direct line up the slabs directly below the right-hand edge of the\ncentral overhangs.\n\n\n\nInitial steep moves up and left lead to clean crack climbing, trend\nright to belay.\n\n\n\n\nFollow cracks up and right to small overlap on great gear. Committing\nmoves to pass a small overlap on the right then climb directly up to the\nright side of the central overhangs.", "ascent": "Craig Jefferies and Partner, 1999." }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/fiordland/darran-mountains/sabre-pk/south-face/fisher-mcleod", "name": "Fisher-McLeod", "grade": "18", "topo_ref": "5", "image": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/route/IMG_1412.jpg?itok=gLa8tshx", "images": [ { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/route/IMG_1412.jpg?itok=gLa8tshx", "height": "325", "width": "244" } ], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": "18", "description": null }, { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "" } ], "quality": 3, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": "An excellent sustained route which follows a continuous series of cracks,\ntopping out high on the West Ridge just short of the summit. The route\nbegins on the right side of the central slabs.\n\n\n\nUp initial steep slabs, trending right and working up broken cracks to\nleft-facing corner. Belay up and left.\n\n\n\n\nFollow obvious right-slanting gully.\n\n\n\n\nContinue up face and into obvious corner.\n\n\n\n\nA ramp leads to a ledge with sling belay.\n\n\n\n\nThin moves right across slab until a left-facing corner is gained. A\nclassic thin corner requiring delicate moves; belay above on small rubble\nledge.\n\n\n\n\nContinue up corner system; some devious moves through a series of\nbulges .\n\n\n\n\nFollow weakness to a belay beside right-facing corner.\n\n\n\n\nClimb prow which breaks an overlap band.\n\n\n\n\nFollow groove up then trend right for belay.\n\n\n\n\nTake broken but solid rock through overlaps for 100m until the ridge\nis gained.", "ascent": "John Fisher, Bill McLeod, Mar 1987." }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/fiordland/darran-mountains/sabre-pk/south-face/original-line", "name": "Original Line", "grade": "18", "topo_ref": "6", "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": "18", "description": "A line up the center of the face starting on the right of a buttress; five pitches to a steep band, then hand-jams through an overhang, crux 18. Move up and left around a second band, then up easier ground to the summit. The original ascent involved 20 pitches." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Allan Jones, Murray Jones, 1971." }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/fiordland/darran-mountains/sabre-pk/south-face/campbell-howard", "name": "Campbell Howard", "grade": null, "topo_ref": "7", "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "A line to the right of the original line joining the East Ridge above the gendarme." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Andy Campbell, John Howard, 1973." }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/fiordland/darran-mountains/sabre-pk/south-face/south-east-face", "name": "South East Face", "grade": null, "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "Climb the slabs from the snow-slope just below the gully up to the Sabre Adelaide Col to join the East Ridge above the gendarme." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Archie Simpson, Bill Stevenson, Peter Barry, Jan 1966." }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/fiordland/darran-mountains/sabre-pk/south-face/hongis-track", "name": "Hongi's Track", "grade": "VI,WI5", "topo_ref": "HT", "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": "VI", "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": "WI5", "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "It is quite a hike up to the base of the south face. Starts by sidling up the scree slope under the glacier nestled beneath Mt Adelaide. There is usually an avalanche cone that affords access through a weakness in the line of bluffs. Above here the ground is moderate; easily soloed up to where the fun starts.\r\nThe route involves one steep pitch of 80 degree ice through the band of overhangs, this is the crux and in thin ice conditions would be very difficult. The rest of the route follows a corner system with 50 degree sections, interspersed between 70 degree steps. It is easily climbed in a day from a bivvy either at the bottom of the face or from the bivvy rock. The line runs up the right side of the face, just to the left of the gendarme on the East Ridge. It tops out just right of the summit. \r\nOn the first ascent it was climbed from a bivvy in the Upper Marian, twelve hours on the face with two bivvies in a storm on the descent. It has since had several ascents and most agree it should be more popular. And probably would be if you could fly to the bottom of it." } ], "quality": 2, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Bill Denz, Kim Logan, July 1983." } ], "places": [], "image": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/wide/public/image/D163.jpg?itok=WuXGSu1t", "images": [ { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/wide/public/image/D163.jpg?itok=WuXGSu1t", "height": "567", "width": "334" }, { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/image/sabre%20sf_winter.jpg?itok=zwtvEbUR", "height": "312", "width": "325" }, { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/image/Upper%20Marian%20crop.jpg?itok=QEDpUeK-", "height": "248", "width": "325" } ] }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/fiordland/darran-mountains/sabre-pk/north-east-face", "name": "North East Face", "altitude": null, "access": "The Jones Dingle TV Route provides the best descent for routes the TV Route to Ram Paddock Road if you do not wish to climb beyond the slab.", "description": "This steep sunny face contains a range of technical free and aid routes.", "latlng": null, "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/fiordland/darran-mountains/sabre-pk/north-east-face/jones-chouinard", "name": "Jones Chouinard", "grade": "16", "topo_ref": "2", "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": true, "ewbank": "16", "description": "An excellent three pitch corner crack to the East Ridge. The crack widens to around four inches on the third pitch." } ], "quality": 2, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": true, "description": null, "ascent": "Murray Jones, Yvon Chouinard, 1971." }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/fiordland/darran-mountains/sabre-pk/north-east-face/black-doris", "name": "Black Doris", "grade": "20", "topo_ref": "3", "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": true, "ewbank": "20", "description": "Six Pitches. A superb route which climbs a right tending, hanging slab then left up cracks to join the left-end of Improbability Drive. Has a great diagonal crack pitch in the middle of the slab.\r\nNamed by Calum after a girl he met in Trinidad." } ], "quality": 2, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": true, "description": null, "ascent": "Calum Hudson, Stephan Schachtl, 1985." }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/fiordland/darran-mountains/sabre-pk/north-east-face/tv-route", "name": "TV Route", "grade": "18", "topo_ref": "4", "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": true, "ewbank": "18", "description": "Follow a left slanting hand-crack to the sloping ledges in the centre of the face then up the steep corner leading up from the right-end of the ledges." } ], "quality": 3, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": true, "description": null, "ascent": "Graeme Dingle, Murray Jones, Jan 1971." }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/fiordland/darran-mountains/sabre-pk/north-east-face/improbability-drive", "name": "Improbability Drive", "grade": null, "topo_ref": "5", "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": true, "ewbank": null, "description": "After climbing the first two pitches of the TV route move up and right to the base of the roofs that run across the left-hand side of the face. Traverse these for three pitches (bad rock, good positions) to the East Ridge and easier ground." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": true, "description": null, "ascent": "John Dale, Nigel Perry, Feb 1981." }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/fiordland/darran-mountains/sabre-pk/north-east-face/franklin-wethey-variation", "name": "Franklin Wethey Variation", "grade": "17", "topo_ref": "6", "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": true, "ewbank": "17", "description": "A two pitch avoidance of the first and second pitches of the TV Route. The first pitch involves a right-slanting hand traverse 14-15, then a short hand-crack at about grade 17 (crux). Continue up to meet the TV Route above its crux pitch." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": true, "description": null, "ascent": "Mike Franklin, Tim Wethey, Mar 1975." }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/fiordland/darran-mountains/sabre-pk/north-east-face/sabre-rattling", "name": "Sabre Rattling", "grade": "18", "topo_ref": "7", "image": null, "images": [], "length": "245m", "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": "30m", "bolts": null, "trad": true, "ewbank": "16", "description": "Nine pitches. 16, 18, 14, 17, 18, 16, 16. Good free-climbing up the buttress to the right of the TV Route for three pitches then up the slab on the TV Route for two pitches. Finally break left up a steep crack system; the headwall has some amazing rock. \r\nClimb the slab and right facing shallow corner to belay at bottom of left facing prominent corner." }, { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": "40m", "bolts": null, "trad": true, "ewbank": "18", "description": "Climb left facing corner on good gear. Continue up right to belay stance at base of slabs." }, { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": "25m", "bolts": null, "trad": true, "ewbank": "14", "description": "Move right and up to belay just around prominent right-hand skyline." }, { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": "30m", "bolts": null, "trad": true, "ewbank": "17", "description": "Right and up following laid back crack/corner system. Belay where corner steepens and narrows above." }, { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": "30m", "bolts": null, "trad": true, "ewbank": "18", "description": "Move left and up into wide corner/weakness. Continue up and left over slight bulge to belay at small stance on skyline ar\u00eate." }, { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": "50m", "bolts": null, "trad": true, "ewbank": "16", "description": "Move right the follow left trending shallow corner." }, { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": "40m", "bolts": null, "trad": true, "ewbank": "16", "description": "Up 10m then trend left towards easier ground follow a fantastic series of flakes and cracks." }, { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": true, "ewbank": null, "description": "Scramble up easier ground." } ], "quality": 2, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": true, "description": null, "ascent": "Murray Judge, Andrew Macfarlane, 1985." }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/fiordland/darran-mountains/sabre-pk/north-east-face/ram-paddock-road", "name": "Ram Paddock Road", "grade": "24", "topo_ref": "8", "image": null, "images": [], "length": "100m", "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": "20m", "bolts": null, "trad": true, "ewbank": "19", "description": "Four pitches: 19, 23, 24, 24. Originally a mixed aid line, A4.\r\n. Move directly up on good gear to a solid belay." }, { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": "25m", "bolts": null, "trad": true, "ewbank": "23", "description": "Up the wall passing some bolts to a small roof. Belay 5m above." }, { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": "15m", "bolts": null, "trad": true, "ewbank": "24", "description": "Head up and left from anchor clipping a couple of old bent pitons then straight up for several metres on minimal gear to a committing 4m traverse right. Head straight up to easier climbing, bomber rock and good times. Clip a couple more old pitons before belaying at a suspect flake with sardine can wedged in behind. An eerie pitch." }, { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": "40m", "bolts": null, "trad": true, "ewbank": "24", "description": "Head straight up awkward corner continuing up an awesome layback section as it heads off right." } ], "quality": 1, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": true, "description": null, "ascent": "Murray Judge, Hugh Logan, Feb 1984." }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/fiordland/darran-mountains/sabre-pk/north-east-face/smash-palace", "name": "Smash Palace", "grade": "23", "topo_ref": "9", "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": true, "ewbank": "23", "description": "An overhanging layback and undercling crack up a right facing corner and arch." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": true, "description": null, "ascent": "Dave Vass, Murray Judge, Feb 1990." }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/fiordland/darran-mountains/sabre-pk/north-east-face/ball-and-chain-a4", "name": "Ball and Chain A4", "grade": null, "topo_ref": "10", "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "Climb/aid the overhanging crack which breaks through the large roofs and goes up to join the TV Route at half height. A quality aid line." } ], "quality": 1, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "John Dale, Murray Judge, 1985." }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/fiordland/darran-mountains/sabre-pk/north-east-face/rock-candy", "name": "Rock Candy", "grade": null, "topo_ref": "11", "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": true, "ewbank": null, "description": "A steep single pitch cutting through the crack on the Ball and Chain route" } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": true, "description": null, "ascent": null } ], "places": [], "image": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/wide/public/image/Sabre%20NEF.jpg?itok=2p0EkDfx", "images": [ { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/wide/public/image/Sabre%20NEF.jpg?itok=2p0EkDfx", "height": "636", "width": "900" } ] }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/fiordland/darran-mountains/sabre-pk/north-buttress", "name": "North Buttress", "altitude": null, "access": null, "description": "One of the best alpine rock routes in the country. 500 metres of seriously exposed climbing. This one was a Darrans classic even before it was successfully climbed. Make sure you are on the route early as any route finding errors could result in a cold night out.\nThere are three variations to the start of the original North Buttress. All take lines on the Little North East Face, joining up with the North Buttress at various points.", "latlng": null, "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/fiordland/darran-mountains/sabre-pk/north-buttress/lower-north-east-face-start", "name": "Lower North East Face start", "grade": "17", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": "140m", "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": "50m", "bolts": null, "trad": true, "ewbank": "17", "description": "From the right-hand end of the flat ledges under the North East Face.\r\n Climb a corner/face to a good ledge." }, { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": "50m", "bolts": null, "trad": true, "ewbank": "16", "description": "Move right on easy ground under the overhanging wall for 10m, then up an initially steep right-facing corner." }, { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": "40m", "bolts": null, "trad": true, "ewbank": "14", "description": "Head up right to join the standard route." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": true, "description": null, "ascent": "Duncan Chessell, Kylie Wakelin, March 1997." }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/fiordland/darran-mountains/sabre-pk/north-buttress/north-buttress-direct-start", "name": "North Buttress Direct Start", "grade": "19", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": "19", "description": "Two steep pitches through a continuous crack to join the North Buttress route where it briefly traverses round toward the north east face. Don\u2019t be fooled by the steepness, the crack is full of jugs and eats up gear." } ], "quality": 3, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Rick McGregor, Cathy Mackay, Jan. 1986" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/fiordland/darran-mountains/sabre-pk/north-buttress/north-buttress-standard-route", "name": "North Buttress Standard Route", "grade": "17", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": "125m", "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": "45m", "bolts": null, "trad": true, "ewbank": "16", "description": "This is now the usual way to start the Buttress. Scramble up toward the north-east face to belay off a flat ledge; start by climbing over a bulge to a sloping ledge then continue up a steep but well featured wall, one 45m pitch of 14 which is quite run-out. This brings you to the top of the tussock ridge known as the Yak Pastures. From the upper left of the terrace climb left round a series of small ledges toward the North East Face, avoiding the overlaps on the buttress itself. Then: \r\n Traverse up and left for 15m along a tricky break then up steep but broken ground to a comfortable belay ledge." }, { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": "40m", "bolts": null, "trad": true, "ewbank": "17", "description": "Move up and left into the obvious steep cracks, stepping left again to belay." }, { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": "40m", "bolts": null, "trad": true, "ewbank": "16", "description": "Continue up to regain the buttress, then climb a short steep wall on the right.\r\nContinue up the buttress for 200-300m on well featured rock, crux 13-14." } ], "quality": 3, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": true, "description": null, "ascent": "Calum Hudson, Judy Terpstra, Allan Soon, Jan 1982." }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/fiordland/darran-mountains/sabre-pk/north-buttress/north-buttress", "name": "North Buttress", "grade": "17", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": true, "ewbank": "17", "description": "The route starts at the toe of the Buttress, climbing the large grassy Yak Pastures to the overlaps in the buttress. Move left on ledges onto the edge of the north-east face then up on steep ground to regain the buttress.\r\nThe original ascent took 2 days and involved sections of aid through the steep cracks in the centre of the buttress." } ], "quality": 2, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": true, "description": null, "ascent": "Harold Jacobs, Murray Jones, Dec 1968." }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/fiordland/darran-mountains/sabre-pk/north-buttress/north-buttress-north-west-face-variation", "name": "North Buttress North West Face Variation", "grade": null, "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": true, "ewbank": null, "description": "Climb the right side of the buttress." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": true, "description": null, "ascent": "Ted Coates, John Howard, 1973." }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/fiordland/darran-mountains/sabre-pk/north-buttress/north-buttress-winter-ascent", "name": "North Buttress (Winter Ascent)", "grade": "V,WI5", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": "V", "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": "WI5", "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "Follow the line of the summer route. The climbing is generally steep rock-climbing in nature with ice chocking the cracks and shady corners." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Warwick Anderson, Ken Hyslop, Aug 1977." } ], "places": [], "image": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/wide/public/image/D74.jpg?itok=qKYoOfCN", "images": [ { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/wide/public/image/D74.jpg?itok=qKYoOfCN", "height": "612", "width": "428" } ] }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/fiordland/darran-mountains/sabre-pk/north-west-face", "name": "North West Face", "altitude": null, "access": null, "description": "The north-west face is a fearsome wall that has seen little more than a dozen ascents. The aid-lines that tackle the central part of the face are very committing and at present unrepeated. There are possible flat bivouac ledges located under the face, once the snow melts, for attempts on the wall and these can be reached in a long day from Homer Hut.", "latlng": null, "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/fiordland/darran-mountains/sabre-pk/north-west-face/herron-whiston-aitken", "name": "Herron Whiston Aitken", "grade": "17", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": true, "ewbank": "17", "description": "13 pitches: From the ledges right of the Yak Pastures climb the corner immediately right of the North Buttress, angling right to the gully between the buttress and the North West Face. \r\nA committing line requiring an uncomfortable bivvy on the first ascent." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": true, "description": null, "ascent": "Rob Aitken, Phil Herron, Neal Whiston, Jan 1975." }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/fiordland/darran-mountains/sabre-pk/north-west-face/sarkasmos", "name": "Sarkasmos", "grade": "18", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": true, "ewbank": null, "description": "Starting from the snow-field under the North West Face where the buttress meets the face. \r\nRight-facing corner." }, { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": true, "ewbank": "18", "description": "Traverse right and up a rib onto the right side of the ledges," }, { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": true, "ewbank": null, "description": "Up ledges and traverse right." }, { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": true, "ewbank": null, "description": "Twenty metre wall then up ledges." }, { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": true, "ewbank": null, "description": "Traverse right; take a chimney on the left side of a flake then across the top to a belay." }, { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": true, "ewbank": "18", "description": "Traverse right into a slabby groove, up this and swing out left into a crack with some loose blocks" }, { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": true, "ewbank": null, "description": "Up ledges and short walls on the left to join a large right-slanting corner." }, { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": true, "ewbank": null, "description": "Up the corner to a gully with a steep flake." }, { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": true, "ewbank": null, "description": "Traverse right to a slabby gully and up this to the ridge." } ], "quality": 1, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": true, "description": null, "ascent": "Calum Hudson, Nigel Perry, Feb 1982." }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/fiordland/darran-mountains/sabre-pk/north-west-face/kamikaze-line", "name": "Kamikaze Line", "grade": "A4", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": "A4", "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "The initial three pitches of slabs from the snowfield follow a right facing corner to the large terraces under the face, slabby and protection is scarce. Above the terraces a huge flake lies against the face, climb the chimney on the left side. Steep face climbing above a small roof leads to the base of a clean cut overhanging corner with a 30m knife-blade crack. This is followed by two further pitches of mixed free and aid climbing. A wildly overhanging chimney ends abruptly on a broad ledge where it is possible to scramble around to the East Ridge." } ], "quality": 2, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Bill Denz, Phil Herron, Murray Judge, 1975" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/fiordland/darran-mountains/sabre-pk/north-west-face/original-line", "name": "Original Line", "grade": null, "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": true, "ewbank": null, "description": "Follows a line of chimneys splitting the buttress in the centre of the face. Start up a right-slanting ramp towards the big corner, angling back left to a pedestal below the large roofs. Climb a delicate wall to the roofs where a wild pendulum regains the main corner. Bridging, thin aid and the occasional \u201830 foot fall\u2019 lead to a good ledge. Follow easier chimneys and slabs up and right along a prominent ramp to easier ground." } ], "quality": 1, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": true, "description": null, "ascent": "Bill Denz, Phil Herron, Murray Judge, Jan 1974." }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/fiordland/darran-mountains/sabre-pk/north-west-face/tora-tora-tora", "name": "Tora Tora Tora!", "grade": "24", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": "450m", "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": "48m", "bolts": null, "trad": true, "ewbank": "24", "description": null }, { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": "50m", "bolts": null, "trad": true, "ewbank": "20", "description": null }, { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": "27m", "bolts": null, "trad": true, "ewbank": "21", "description": null }, { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": "50m", "bolts": null, "trad": true, "ewbank": "20", "description": null }, { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": "25m", "bolts": null, "trad": true, "ewbank": "16", "description": null }, { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": "250m", "bolts": null, "trad": true, "ewbank": "18", "description": "Continue up a gully and slabs to the top." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": true, "description": "The first all-free route to be climbed on the central part of the face, with\na hard first pitch. Take a standard small rack.", "ascent": "Jonathan Clearwater, Mayan Smith-Gobat, Derek Thatcher, January 2007" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/fiordland/darran-mountains/sabre-pk/north-west-face/rowell-route", "name": "Rowell Route", "grade": "19,A3", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": "A3", "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": true, "ewbank": "19", "description": "This route takes a vertical corner just right of the Original Line, with some aid, and then follows broken ledges across to the West Ridge." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": true, "description": null, "ascent": "Andy Campbell, Hugh Logan, Galen Rowell, Daryl Thomson, 1977" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/fiordland/darran-mountains/sabre-pk/north-west-face/garrity-parker", "name": "Garrity Parker", "grade": "19", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": true, "ewbank": "19", "description": "Eight pitches to join the West Ridge; crux on the second pitch." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": true, "description": null, "ascent": "Dave Garrity, Robert Stavely Parker, Feb 1982." }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/fiordland/darran-mountains/sabre-pk/north-west-face/english-hillary", "name": "English Hillary", "grade": "17", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": true, "ewbank": "17", "description": "Climb slabs and walls to a large corner capped by a roof. Climb the wall to the left of the roof then a groove to broken ground and the West Ridge." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": true, "description": null, "ascent": "Merv English, Peter Hillary, Nov 1980." } ], "places": [], "image": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/wide/public/image/D47.jpg?itok=5sOBuLEO", "images": [ { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/wide/public/image/D47.jpg?itok=5sOBuLEO", "height": "428", "width": "612" } ] } ], "image": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/wide/public/2024-05/Darrans-Sabre-Lake-Adelaide-2011.jpeg?itok=neMM6JUn", "images": [ { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/wide/public/2024-05/Darrans-Sabre-Lake-Adelaide-2011.jpeg?itok=neMM6JUn", "height": "818", "width": "1090" }, { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/image/Publication1_0.jpg?itok=OlJLcS0A", "height": "230", "width": "325" } ] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki/kirikirikatata-mt-cook-range/mt-rosa": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki/kirikirikatata-mt-cook-range/mt-rosa", "name": "Mt Rosa", "altitude": "2161m", "access": null, "description": "First ascent by Rosa Moorhouse and Mabel Studholme, 1895.", "latlng": [ "-43.65383853", "170.14852524" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki/kirikirikatata-mt-cook-range/mt-rosa/husky-flat", "name": "From Husky Flat", "grade": null, "topo_ref": null, "image": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/routes/Screenshot_20230106-135443_Strava.jpg?itok=1g-69VTH", "images": [ { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/routes/Screenshot_20230106-135443_Strava.jpg?itok=1g-69VTH", "height": "325", "width": "289" } ], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "Can all be climbed easily from the Tasman Valley. Mts Mabel and Rosa provide pleasant climbing up the valley above Husky Flat, but beware of avalanches in spring and early summer. A cut, cairned track exists on the true right of cove stream gorge up to the basin, unmarked on the map. Excellent for descent and a nice alternative to Ball Pass. See topo." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": null }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki/kirikirikatata-mt-cook-range/mt-rosa/mt-mabel", "name": "From Mt. Mabel", "grade": "2+,II", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": "2+", "commitment": "II", "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": null } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": "A broken, blocky ridge on variable rock in summer. Dropping to the basin is almost always faster in good conditions.", "ascent": null } ], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aspiring/barrier-range/irvine-pk": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aspiring/barrier-range/irvine-pk", "name": "Irvine Pk", "altitude": "2161m", "access": null, "description": "tba", "latlng": [ "-44.49846517", "168.3014885" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aspiring/barrier-range/irvine-pk/merkl-glacier", "name": "Via Merkl Glacier", "grade": null, "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "Reach the Merkl Glacier from Fohn Saddle via Brenda Peak and ascend to the top neve up the icefall and from there up the summit ridge, or from Mallory." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": null } ], "places": [], "image": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/wide/public/image/NN_5%20irvine%2C%20mallory_opt.jpeg?itok=5RNUg532", "images": [ { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/wide/public/image/NN_5%20irvine%2C%20mallory_opt.jpeg?itok=5RNUg532", "height": "415", "width": "553" } ] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aspiring/main-divide/pt-2161": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aspiring/main-divide/pt-2161", "name": "Pt 2161", "altitude": "2161m", "access": null, "description": null, "latlng": [ "-44.08936289", "169.53002543" ], "routes": [], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aspiring/main-divide/pegasus-pk": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aspiring/main-divide/pegasus-pk", "name": "Pegasus Pk", "altitude": "2160m", "access": null, "description": "Located at the end of the ridge that runs north-west from the summit of Castor (slightly west of the Divide).", "latlng": [ "-44.20716999", "168.8691125" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aspiring/main-divide/pegasus-pk/west-ridge", "name": "West Ridge", "grade": null, "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "The pleasant slabs of the West Ridge have been climbed from the Drake valley." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "T Barcham, B D Matthews & G J McCallum, Dec 1950." } ], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/node/10241": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/node/10241", "name": "Mercury Pk", "altitude": "2160m", "access": null, "description": null, "latlng": [ "-44.210195", "-44.210195" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/node/10241/lake-castalia-cirque", "name": "From Lake Castalia Cirque", "grade": null, "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "Climb out of the Lake Castalia Cirque, normally via Leda Peak route, and traverse upper snow slopes." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "C Bentham, E Miller & S Turner, Jan 1929." } ], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/marlborough/raglan-range/scotts-knob": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/marlborough/raglan-range/scotts-knob", "name": "Scotts Knob", "altitude": "2160m", "access": "Scott Stream is the easiest access. From Greigs Hut cross the Branch, following a track into the stream. Good campsites in a basin at 1200m. In winter, ice forms in runnels and on buttresses above the campsite.", "description": "The peak is slightly east of the main Raglan Range. Scott Stream is the easiest access.", "latlng": [ "-41.84241021", "173.05306573" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/marlborough/raglan-range/scotts-knob/standard-route", "name": "Standard Route", "grade": "1", "topo_ref": "1", "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": "1", "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "From the basin climb easy, scrubby slopes on the true left of the stream into tussock basins and scree below the peak. Ascend easy slopes to a notch just south-west of the summit." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": null }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/marlborough/raglan-range/scotts-knob/south-face", "name": "South Face", "grade": "3", "topo_ref": "2", "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": "3", "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "The gully in the centre of the face leads to a steep traverse to the left, and is a good winter ice climb." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": null }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/marlborough/raglan-range/scotts-knob/north-east-ridge", "name": "North East Ridge", "grade": "1", "topo_ref": "3", "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": "1", "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "Climb scree slopes east of the peak to the ridge. Follow the ridge till a ledge allows bluffs and gendarmes to be turned by traversing slopes on the Silverstream side to regain the upper ridge.\r\n. Can also be done from the Silverstream-Branch River confluence." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": null } ], "places": [], "image": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/wide/public/image/Screen%20shot%202011-06-29%20at%205.52.44%20PM.jpg?itok=7mK-kgd7", "images": [ { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/wide/public/image/Screen%20shot%202011-06-29%20at%205.52.44%20PM.jpg?itok=7mK-kgd7", "height": "572", "width": "825" } ] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/darrans/darran-mountains/mt-tarewai": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/darrans/darran-mountains/mt-tarewai", "name": "Mt Tarewai", "altitude": "2158m", "access": null, "description": "Usually traversed to travel between Turner\u02bbs Biv and Lake Turner. Incorrectly marked on topomaps as Mt Mahere.", "latlng": [ "-44.632817", "168.025237" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/fiordland/darran-mountains/mt-tarewai/north-ridge", "name": "North Ridge", "grade": null, "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "Scramble up to the base of the North Ridge, where an initial short steep section is followed by easy scrambling to the summit." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Mike Gill, Phil Houghton, 1957" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/fiordland/darran-mountains/mt-tarewai/south-ridge", "name": "South Ridge", "grade": null, "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "A short climb from Pikipari Pass." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Mike Gill, Phil Houghton (descended), 1957" } ], "places": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/fiordland/darran-mountains/tarewai/east-face", "name": "East Face", "altitude": null, "access": null, "description": "This clean face rises directly off the snow fields that run the length of the terraces above and north of Lake Turner. The lower section of the face is split by a large hanging corner.", "latlng": null, "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/fiordland/darran-mountains/tarewai/east-face/original-route", "name": "Original Route", "grade": "18,II", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": "II", "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": true, "ewbank": "18", "description": "Six pitches: 17, 18, 14, 15, 16, 15. Start up a thin crack right of the central hanging corner. Move up and right through overlaps to belay on broken ledges (crux). Continue up and left into a large open corner; follow this for two pitches before stepping right onto a large ledge to belay. Move right onto the southeastern aspects for two beautiful but easy pitches to the summit. Fantastic rock on the lower wall." } ], "quality": 2, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": true, "description": null, "ascent": "Brigid Allan, Craig Jefferies, Keith Riley, February 2003" } ], "places": [], "image": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/wide/public/image/D281_2.jpg?itok=IfbJ5HFn", "images": [ { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/wide/public/image/D281_2.jpg?itok=IfbJ5HFn", "height": "340", "width": "428" } ] } ], "image": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/wide/public/image/D281_1.jpg?itok=TWrPPId2", "images": [ { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/wide/public/image/D281_1.jpg?itok=TWrPPId2", "height": "340", "width": "428" } ] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/darrans/darran-mountains/mt-milne": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/darrans/darran-mountains/mt-milne", "name": "Mt Milne", "altitude": "2158m", "access": null, "description": "Inconspicuous on its western aspects, Mt Milne\u02bbs mighty south face and the Cleft it rises out of are one of the great features of the central Darrans. Milne is incorrectly marked on old topomaps as Mt Tarewai.", "latlng": [ "-44.629886", "168.027554" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/darrans/darran-mountains/mt-milne/original-route", "name": "Original Route", "grade": null, "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": "0m", "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "Climb the slabs of the northern side then follow a right-tending ledge system as it move into the centre of the face, avoiding the steep north-west aspects. \r\nThis route is used as the common descent off Milne." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": "0", "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Frank Milne, Samuel Turner, March 1921" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/darrans/darran-mountains/mt-milne/central-line", "name": "Central Line", "grade": "15", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": "0m", "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": true, "ewbank": "15", "description": null } ], "quality": 1, "bolts": "0", "natural_pro": true, "description": "A groove in the centre of the West Face.", "ascent": "Merv English, Limbo Thompson, April 1973" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/darrans/darran-mountains/mt-milne/right-hand-route", "name": "Right-hand Route", "grade": "17", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": "150m", "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": "150m", "bolts": null, "trad": true, "ewbank": "17", "description": null } ], "quality": 1, "bolts": "0", "natural_pro": true, "description": "A three-pitch route which follows a clean crack system 50m left of the South Ridge.", "ascent": "Brigid Allan, Craig Jefferies, Keith Riley, February 2003" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/darrans/darran-mountains/mt-milne/south-ridge", "name": "South Ridge", "grade": "18", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": "150m", "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": "150m", "bolts": null, "trad": true, "ewbank": "18", "description": null } ], "quality": 3, "bolts": "0", "natural_pro": true, "description": "An excellent and exposed three-pitch route. Starting from above the cleft, follow grooves up the ridge to the summit.", "ascent": "Rich Turner, Dave Vass, February 2003" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/darrans/darran-mountains/mt-milne/map-draughts", "name": "The Map of Draughts", "grade": "23", "topo_ref": "4", "image": null, "images": [], "length": "400m", "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": "400m", "bolts": null, "trad": true, "ewbank": "23", "description": null } ], "quality": 2, "bolts": "0", "natural_pro": true, "description": "10 pitches. Start at the pedestal at the bottom of a left-tending staircase flake then move up and left to an overhang before straightening up for another six pitches. Exit just to the right of the summit.", "ascent": "Richard Turner, Dave Vass, Feb 2001" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/darrans/darran-mountains/mt-milne/east-ridge-south-face", "name": "East Ridge via South Face", "grade": "19", "topo_ref": "5", "image": null, "images": [], "length": "400m", "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": "400m", "bolts": null, "trad": true, "ewbank": "19", "description": null } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": "0", "natural_pro": true, "description": "Five pitches to the ridge (19, 14, 15, 16, 16). Start in the centre of an attached pillar on the right-hand end of the face. Climb the crack in middle of pillar (crux) to a comfortable belay on ledge. Traverse right into an open corner system then ascend three pitches on blocky rock to gain the East Ridge. 200m of grade 10-13 climbing along the ridge to summit.", "ascent": "Brigid Allan, Craig Jefferies, Keith Riley, Feb 2003" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/darrans/darran-mountains/mt-milne/east-ridge", "name": "East Ridge", "grade": "13", "topo_ref": "6", "image": null, "images": [], "length": "0m", "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": true, "ewbank": "13", "description": "Nine pitches to the summit on good rock. The party descended the Cleft Creek side from just north of Milne to gain the buttress beside two gendarmes." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": "0", "natural_pro": true, "description": null, "ascent": "Dave Bamford, Kevin Helm, February 1980" } ], "places": [], "image": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/wide/public/2023-10/Mt%20Milne%2C%20Darrans%2C%202010.jpeg?itok=ZwXiEThF", "images": [ { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/wide/public/2023-10/Mt%20Milne%2C%20Darrans%2C%202010.jpeg?itok=ZwXiEThF", "height": "1453", "width": "1090" }, { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/image/D31.jpg?itok=YUcuZrag", "height": "325", "width": "227" } ] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/westland/butler-range/mt-rangatira": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/westland/butler-range/mt-rangatira", "name": "Mt Rangatira", "altitude": "2157m", "access": null, "description": "na", "latlng": [ "-43.393074", "170.52146" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/westland/butler-range/mt-rangatira/south-east-ridge", "name": "South East Ridge", "grade": "2", "topo_ref": "SER", "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "2", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "From Ice Lake, access the upper Whataroa n\u00e9v\u00e9 via the gully on the true left and cross the n\u00e9v\u00e9\r\nto the base of the ridge, which is made up of steep, loose and rotten schist, with rock stacks in\r\nplaces. This is all negotiable but requires care and pitching in a few places. The first ascent party\r\nused a rope most of the way." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Trevor and Warren Chinn, 7 April 1985" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/westland/butler-range/mt-rangatira/west-ridge", "name": "West Ridge", "grade": "1+", "topo_ref": "WR", "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "1+", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "A straightforward climb from the Whataroa Glacier." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "J Sampson, A Anderson, January 1949" } ], "places": [], "image": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/wide/public/image/WhatGl_0.png?itok=syTAMlzm", "images": [ { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/wide/public/image/WhatGl_0.png?itok=syTAMlzm", "height": "583", "width": "900" } ] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/nelson-lakes-kaik%C5%8Dura/crimea-range/mt-guinevere": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/nelson-lakes-kaik%C5%8Dura/crimea-range/mt-guinevere", "name": "Mt Guinevere", "altitude": "2157m", "access": null, "description": null, "latlng": [ "-42.14164144", "172.71932602" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/nelson-lakes-kaik%C5%8Dura/crimea-range/mt-guinevere/north-ridge", "name": "North Ridge", "grade": "1", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": "1", "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "Climb a tussock ridge south-east of Paske Saddle stream and then a narrow ridge (or a shelf) to Mt Dora. Mt Guinevere is to the south-west of Dora." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": null }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/nelson-lakes-kaik%C5%8Dura/crimea-range/mt-guinevere/south-east-ridge", "name": "South East Ridge", "grade": "2", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": "2", "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "Easy riverbed travel from Island Gully Hut Upper Wairau Rv, leads to a pleasant campsite at the junction of the two source streams of the Wairau. Climb easy slopes from the eastern source stream onto the ridge, north of peak 1820m. Scramble over several minor bumps and narrow rocky sections till below a steep buttress guarding the summit pyramid. Follow leads up on ledges and steep but generally sound rock on the eastern side till above the buttress. Scramble along narrow ridges to the top. The easiest descent (or ascent) is north-east down Turk Ridge, then easy scree into the head of the stream. Mt Guinevere is an easy scramble south-west of Dora" } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": null }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/nelson-lakes-kaik%C5%8Dura/crimea-range/mt-guinevere/south-gullies", "name": "South Gullies", "grade": "2+", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "2+", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "" } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": "Follow the western source stream of the Wairau, bypassing a waterfall on the true left, into a scree basin and tarn. A steepening snow-filled couloir tops out above the buttress of SE Ridge route.", "ascent": null } ], "places": [], "image": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/wide/public/image/1-PB140172.JPG?itok=6BejnXGY", "images": [ { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/wide/public/image/1-PB140172.JPG?itok=6BejnXGY", "height": "675", "width": "900" } ] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/%C5%8Dhau-landsborough/main-divide/mt-mackenzie": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/%C5%8Dhau-landsborough/main-divide/mt-mackenzie", "name": "Mt Mackenzie", "altitude": "2156m", "access": null, "description": null, "latlng": [ "-43.9485", "169.7227" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/%C5%8Dhau-landsborough/main-divide/mt-mackenzie/north-ridge", "name": "North Ridge", "grade": "2", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "2", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": null } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": "From Memorial Glacier scramble up the western slope to gain the wide north\nridge and summit snow dome.", "ascent": "Descended Scott Gilkison, Stewart Ombler, Stan Ombler, A.W.O'Reilly, Harry Stevenson March 1936" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/%C5%8Dhau-landsborough/main-divide/mt-mackenzie/south-ridge", "name": "South Ridge", "grade": "2", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "2", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": null } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": "Mt McKenzie is a snow dome which is readily ascended from Brodrick Pass.\nMixed rock and ice climbing from the pass is followed by a broad snowslope\nand a short ar\u00eate to the summit.", "ascent": "Eric Burns, Ernie Presland, Harry Stevenson, Dick Young January 1934" } ], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/nelson-lakes/st-arnaud-range/pt-2156": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/nelson-lakes/st-arnaud-range/pt-2156", "name": "Pt 2156", "altitude": "2156m", "access": null, "description": "St Arnaud Range", "latlng": [ "-42.023215", "172.771227" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/nelson-lakes/st-arnaud-range/pt-2156/divide-ridge", "name": "Divide Ridge", "grade": "3+", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": "3+", "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "Climb directly from Upper Travers Hut to Begley Saddle. Follow the St Arnaud range north to the peak; a varied climb, tricky in places with a vertical pitch that can be turned by a gully on the east." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": null }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/nelson-lakes/st-arnaud-range/pt-2156/west-face", "name": "West Face", "grade": "1", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": "1", "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "The huge slabs of the face, split by four couloirs, offer possibilities." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": null } ], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/darrans/darran-mountains/alice-pk": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/darrans/darran-mountains/alice-pk", "name": "Alice Pk", "altitude": "2155m", "access": null, "description": null, "latlng": [ "-44.58433863", "168.03949963" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/darrans/darran-mountains/alice-pk/south-east-ridge", "name": "South East Ridge", "grade": null, "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "From under the East Face, head up a broad snow-slope to join the South East Ridge, which is broken in places." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Anna Gillooly, Dave Hiddleston, Jan 2001" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/darrans/darran-mountains/alice-pk/north-ridge", "name": "North Ridge", "grade": null, "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Frank Alack, Katie Gardner, Vic Williams, 1935." }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/darrans/darran-mountains/alice-pk/south-west-ridge", "name": "South West Ridge", "grade": null, "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "A scramble along from Tutoko saddle" } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "First ascent unknown" } ], "places": [], "image": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/wide/public/image/Darrans-Alice-2019.jpeg?itok=EnrPGcLi", "images": [ { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/wide/public/image/Darrans-Alice-2019.jpeg?itok=EnrPGcLi", "height": "727", "width": "1090" } ] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/c58dhau-landsborough/ben-ohau-range/pt-2155m": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/c58dhau-landsborough/ben-ohau-range/pt-2155m", "name": "Pt 2155m", "altitude": "2155m", "access": null, "description": "The impressive western buttresses of Pt 2155m have around 90 rock routes on their lower quartz-veined slabs \u2013 the Twin Stream routes. Some longer alpine rock routes climb the entire face to the summit.", "latlng": [ "-43.895728", "170.056643" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/c58dhau-landsborough/ben-ohau-range/pt-2155m/logan-herbison", "name": "Logan-Herbison", "grade": "17,II", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": "600m", "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": "II", "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": "600m", "bolts": null, "trad": true, "ewbank": "17", "description": null } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": "0", "natural_pro": true, "description": "A variation that climbs the initial 2 pitches of the Logan-Scaife line and then moves left on scree to climb 2 pitches to the top of the Southerly Front Buttress. Rejoin the Logan-Scaife line over the top of the buttress, then scramble left 125m and climb the north face of the final buttress (4 pitches). Scramble to the top.", "ascent": "Hugh Logan, John Herbison, December 1977" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/c58dhau-landsborough/ben-ohau-range/pt-2155m/logan-scaife", "name": "Logan-Scaife", "grade": "17,II", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": "600m", "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": "II", "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": "600m", "bolts": null, "trad": true, "ewbank": "17", "description": null } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": "0", "natural_pro": true, "description": "Begin by climbing to the top of the Half Moon Slab. First done on sketchy trad, most likely following the line later bolted as Moon Rise (17).\nScramble unroped for 100m to the base of Southerly Front buttress and climb this, with an easy chimney and huge chockstone to the right, for 2 pitches (16). Continue for another 3 pitches to the top of the buttress, along this and then a 10m abseil on the other end.\nScramble 125m, tending left, and climb the right side of the next buttress for 4 pitches (16), and an 80m scramble to the summit.", "ascent": "Hugh Logan, Paul Scaife, October 1976" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/c58dhau-landsborough/ben-ohau-range/pt-2155m/taking-liberties", "name": "Taking Liberties", "grade": "12,II", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": "600m", "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": "II", "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": "600m", "bolts": null, "trad": true, "ewbank": "12", "description": null } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": "0", "natural_pro": true, "description": "Walk as far as possible along the ledge system up to and beyond Southerly Front Slab. A 30m V-groove (8) leads into a large gully. Scramble up this for 200m before trending left up short walls and grooves. At the tower, follow ledges to the left in an exposed position, then up and right (12).\nFrom the top of the tower follow the cheval and ledges heading left before ascending the final tower.\nDescend either by a 30m abseil or downclimb into the top of Shindig Gully, or down the straightforward eastern slopes of the peak.", "ascent": "Evan Cameron, March 2020" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/c58dhau-landsborough/ben-ohau-range/pt-2155m/logan-thomson", "name": "Logan-Thomson", "grade": "15,II", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": "0m", "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": "II", "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": true, "ewbank": "15", "description": null } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": "0", "natural_pro": true, "description": "Six pitches with some loose rock. Start up slabby ground on the left side of the next gully north of Shindig Gully. Move into a steep gully/chimney just beside the Fin feature. The crux is a small overhang. First climbed with light packs and alpine boots on account of snow in the intended Shindig Gully descent route.", "ascent": "Hugh Logan, Daryll Thomson, November 1977" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/c58dhau-landsborough/ben-ohau-range/pt-2155m/shindig-gully", "name": "Shindig Gully", "grade": "2,II", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": "600m", "pitches": [ { "alpine": "2", "commitment": "II", "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": "600m", "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": null } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": "0", "natural_pro": false, "description": "The gully is mostly scree with an occasional rock step and offers the best access to and descent from the upper mountain. Icy conditions, as encountered on the first descent, can make it much more difficult.", "ascent": "Hugh Logan, Paul Scaife (descended), November 1976" } ], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/main-divide-of-the-southern-alps/apollo-pk": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/main-divide-of-the-southern-alps/apollo-pk", "name": "Apollo Pk", "altitude": "2154m", "access": null, "description": null, "latlng": [ "-44.218992", "168.892045" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/main-divide-southern-alps/apollo-pk/traverse-mercury", "name": "Traverse from Mercury", "grade": "2,II", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": "0m", "pitches": [ { "alpine": "2", "commitment": "II", "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": null } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": "0", "natural_pro": false, "description": "Quite long but straightforward.", "ascent": "C Bentham, E Miller, S Turner, January 1929" } ], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/darrans/darran-mountains/taiaroa-pk": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/darrans/darran-mountains/taiaroa-pk", "name": "Taiaroa Pk", "altitude": "2154m", "access": null, "description": "Taiaroa Pk is easily climbed. The real rewards for climbers lie on a complex assemblage of bullet-hard buttresses of orange rock that dominate the northern, western and southern aspects.", "latlng": [ "-44.68019", "168.062243" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/darrans/darran-mountains/taiaroa-pk/original-route", "name": "Original Route", "grade": null, "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": "From the col between the high and south peaks it's a short scramble, mostly\non the east side of the ridge.", "ascent": "A M Green, Jim Milne, Richard Stewart, January 1959" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/darrans/darran-mountains/taiaroa-pk/north-buttress", "name": "North Buttress", "grade": null, "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": "Begin from the col between Taiaroa and the Mighty Dur. Two rope lengths at\nthe base of the buttress then scrambling to the summit.", "ascent": "Ken Calder, Bruce Clark, Pete Glasson, Al Smith, March 1973" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/darrans/darran-mountains/taiaroa-pk/north-west-pillar", "name": "North West Pillar", "grade": "22,II", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": "450m", "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": "II", "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": "40m", "bolts": null, "trad": true, "ewbank": "22", "description": "Climb the diagonal over a wee roof to a step left to belay in or under alcove." }, { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": "50m", "bolts": null, "trad": true, "ewbank": "18", "description": "Bust out right and steeply up to belay at blocks with rock drawbridge below the next tower." }, { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": "360m", "bolts": null, "trad": true, "ewbank": "18", "description": "Pitches 3\u20139 continue up the pillar." } ], "quality": 2, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": true, "description": "The massive pillar on the north end of the west face: a series of towers.\nAwesome! At the base of the pillar is a large roof. The orange wall below\nthis is split by a diagonal crack running R-L. Scramble/pitch to the grassy\nledge below this.\nThe first crux pitch could possibly be avoided by scooting up to the right of\nthe overhang and chimney to the base of the next tower.\nGreat looking walls on pitches 3, 5, and 6 (possibly grade 20/21?) could be\nclimbed instead of the easier ar\u00eate.", "ascent": "Rich Thomson, Rich Turner, 7 February 2016" } ], "places": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/fiordland/darran-mountains/taiaroa-pk/west-face", "name": "West Face", "altitude": null, "access": null, "description": "The West Face offers good climbing on excellent rock just a short distance from Crampon Pass. Descend to the col between the High and South Peak, and then either back to the pass or down snow slopes to the northeast.", "latlng": null, "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/fiordland/darran-mountains/taiaroa-pk/west-face/russian-gas-pedal-start", "name": "Russian Gas Pedal Start", "grade": "21,II", "topo_ref": "1", "image": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/route/Taiaroa-RGP.jpg?itok=Hf5lJwJc", "images": [ { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/route/Taiaroa-RGP.jpg?itok=Hf5lJwJc", "height": "325", "width": "325" } ], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": "II", "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": true, "ewbank": "21", "description": "Three pitches, roughly, of steep, technical and sometimes run out climbing. Start down and left of the Roshambo corner; climb into it and finish up that route." } ], "quality": 2, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": true, "description": null, "ascent": "James Spiers, Richard Thomson, Dave Vass, February 2013" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/fiordland/darran-mountains/taiaroa-pk/west-face/russian-gas-pedal-direct", "name": "Russian Gas Pedal Direct", "grade": "20,II", "topo_ref": "2", "image": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/route/taiaroa-1.jpg?itok=35MC4Kvn", "images": [ { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/route/taiaroa-1.jpg?itok=35MC4Kvn", "height": "325", "width": "203" } ], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": "II", "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": "20", "description": "Keep climbing up the wall for 4 pitches (in total) rather than heading right to Ro-sham-bo corner. Extra pitches are grade 19-20. Join Ro-sham-bo where the angle eases off for the final 4 pitches." } ], "quality": 2, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Kester Brown, Stephen Skelton, Feb 2014." }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/fiordland/darran-mountains/taiaroa-pk/west-face/ro-sham-bo", "name": "Ro-sham-bo", "grade": "18,II", "topo_ref": "3", "image": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/route/IMG_1450.jpg?itok=U7ebRRs0", "images": [ { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/route/IMG_1450.jpg?itok=U7ebRRs0", "height": "325", "width": "244" } ], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": "II", "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": "18", "description": "6 pitches: 17, 18, 16, 17, 16, 12. Take a series of small crack systems in the middle of the face mid-way between the two obvious corners. Starting from a low ledge just off the glacier follow a corner for 150m (crux) to a large pedestal and ledge. Another 200m of face climbing leads to the ridge just left of the summit." } ], "quality": 2, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Brigid Allan, Craig Jefferies, Keith Riley, February 2000" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/fiordland/darran-mountains/taiaroa-pk/west-face/original-route", "name": "Original Route", "grade": null, "topo_ref": "4", "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "A 300m route on good rock. Take the dominant right-hand crack/corner system as seen from Crampon Pass." } ], "quality": 1, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Warwick Anderson, John Youngson, Neal Whiston, January 1977" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/fiordland/darran-mountains/taiaroa-pk/west-face/h%C5%8Dri", "name": "H\u014dri", "grade": "18,II", "topo_ref": "8", "image": null, "images": [], "length": "250m", "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": "II", "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": "250m", "bolts": null, "trad": true, "ewbank": "18", "description": null } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": true, "description": "Start at the obvious left-leaning crack. Through a small roof (crux),\nstraighten up, weave up the buttress sticking to the ar\u00eate wherever\npossible. Tops out directly on the high peak.", "ascent": "Troy Mattingley, Michael Eatson. Feb 2018" } ], "places": [], "image": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/wide/public/image/Taiaroa-W-Face.png?itok=wQ452EvP", "images": [ { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/wide/public/image/Taiaroa-W-Face.png?itok=wQ452EvP", "height": "900", "width": "900" }, { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/image/D35.jpg?itok=VDmrczTF", "height": "227", "width": "325" } ] }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/fiordland/darran-mountains/taiaroa-pk/mighty-dur", "name": "Mighty Dur", "altitude": "1828m", "access": null, "description": "The Mighty Dur is the knob of hard red rock at the base of Taiaroa\u2019s North Ridge.", "latlng": null, "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/fiordland/darran-mountains/taiaroa-pk/mighty-dur/yea-nah-dur", "name": "Yea, Nah, Dur!", "grade": "24,I", "topo_ref": null, "image": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/route/P2150142-Edit.jpg?itok=-kagi828", "images": [ { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/route/P2150142-Edit.jpg?itok=-kagi828", "height": "325", "width": "217" } ], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": "I", "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": true, "ewbank": "24", "description": "The east face of the Mighty Dur" } ], "quality": 3, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": true, "description": "P1 (14) 40m Up and right on the slab will take you to the beginning of the\nleft leaning crack system\nP2 (23) 35m Get onto the orange rock and follow 'the line' to a hanging belay\nbelow the first overlap\nP3 (24) 25m Pull the lip then power up to another hanging belay on the left\nhand side of the 2nd overlap\nP4 (20) 15m Takes you to a hanging belay before the grey rock\nP5 (20) 40m Pull up, over and into a juggy vegetated groove that will lead\nyou to the summit\nOne rap off the south side will get you to the col below Taiaroa.", "ascent": "Zac Orme, Troy Mattingley Feb 2015" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/fiordland/darran-mountains/taiaroa-pk/mighty-dur/left-arete", "name": "Left Arete", "grade": "19,II", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": "300m", "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": "II", "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": "300m", "bolts": null, "trad": true, "ewbank": "19", "description": "Seven superb pitches with everything you could wish for and more including: a tussock bollard belay; beautiful slabs; knife edge aretes; wild exposure; and a committing run out to finish. Descend by scrambling down the South side with one abseil to reach slabs to the east." } ], "quality": 3, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": true, "description": null, "ascent": "James Spiers, Richard Thomson, Dave Vass, 6 February 2013" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/fiordland/darran-mountains/taiaroa-pk/mighty-dur/dur-rich-t", "name": "Dur-rich-t", "grade": "22,I", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": "350m", "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": "I", "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": "60m", "bolts": null, "trad": true, "ewbank": "19", "description": "Start just R of the large pale block at horizontal fault 40m right of the corner. Diagonal up and R through 2 laps and between 2 obvious tussock patches to belay on top of R hand tussock patch." }, { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": "40m", "bolts": null, "trad": true, "ewbank": "18", "description": "Diagonal back L to belay beneath ar\u00eate." }, { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": "50m", "bolts": null, "trad": true, "ewbank": "22", "description": "The best pitch ever. Up on L side of ar\u00eate to start, swinging round to R at 5m. Weave up and L on superb rock and gear, to the only obvious and outrageous break through the roof just R of ar\u00eate. Up to 1st suitable ledge on R. (Or stay left closer to ar\u00eate?)" }, { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": "200m", "bolts": null, "trad": true, "ewbank": "18", "description": "Pitches 4\u20137 continue up the arete to a staunch finish." } ], "quality": 3, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": true, "description": "The right arete of the Dur. Sensational climbing on immaculate rock.", "ascent": "Rich Thomson, Rich Turner, 8 February 2016" } ], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/fiordland/darran-mountains/taiaroa-pk/petit-dur", "name": "Petit Dur", "altitude": "1800m", "access": "saunter up from Dur camp", "description": "The pinnacle west of Taiaroa, above the glacier\u2019s terminal lake.", "latlng": [ "-44.678468", "168.059428" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/fiordland/darran-mountains/taiaroa-pk/petit-dur/armenian-direct", "name": "Armenian Direct", "grade": "18,I", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": "200m", "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": "I", "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": "200m", "bolts": null, "trad": true, "ewbank": "18", "description": "Four pitches of increasing difficulty and commitment on the front face of the pinnacle." } ], "quality": 1, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": true, "description": null, "ascent": "John McCallum, Tom Riley, 6 February 2013" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/fiordland/darran-mountains/taiaroa-pk/petit-dur/little-hard-climb", "name": "The Little Hard Climb", "grade": "22,I", "topo_ref": null, "image": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/route/Petit_Dur_topo.jpg?itok=2GJi5Kr9", "images": [ { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/route/Petit_Dur_topo.jpg?itok=2GJi5Kr9", "height": "244", "width": "325" } ], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": "I", "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": true, "ewbank": "22", "description": null } ], "quality": 2, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": true, "description": "P1: (20) friction slab then series of overhangs in weakness to belay at base\nof corner.\nP2: (22) corner with crux at top, which was turned on the arete/bulge on the\nright\nP3: (21) superb corner with crux exiting the corner to the right at the top,\nbelay on col between peaks\nP4: final pitch of Armenian to main summit", "ascent": "Stephen Skelton, Kester Brown. Feb 2014." }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/fiordland/darran-mountains/taiaroa-pk/petit-dur/little-left", "name": "A Little to the Left (?)", "grade": "21", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": "107m", "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": "45m", "bolts": null, "trad": true, "ewbank": "21", "description": "From the ledge, climb the obvious weaknesses to a right-leaning slab. Belay at the top of this." }, { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": "62m", "bolts": null, "trad": true, "ewbank": "21", "description": "Climb corner then step left onto steep slab, pull bulge, then step right to join the top pitch of Armenian Direct." } ], "quality": 1, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": true, "description": "To begin, either traverse in from above via the steep slabs to a gain a prominent ledge, or rope up from below to add another pitch.\nP1: (21) 45m -\nP2: (21) 62m -", "ascent": "Greg Jack, Jean Tompkins, Troy Mattingley, February 2014" } ], "places": [], "image": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/wide/public/image/petitdur_0.jpg?itok=0LtDvd82", "images": [ { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/wide/public/image/petitdur_0.jpg?itok=0LtDvd82", "height": "900", "width": "673" }, { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/image/petitdur_final.jpg?itok=LbOOhleT", "height": "244", "width": "325" } ] } ], "image": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/wide/public/image/Darrans-Taiaroa-2016.jpeg?itok=Jyc7tiqf", "images": [ { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/wide/public/image/Darrans-Taiaroa-2016.jpeg?itok=Jyc7tiqf", "height": "818", "width": "1090" } ] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/nelson-lakes/st-arnaud-range/pt-2152": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/nelson-lakes/st-arnaud-range/pt-2152", "name": "Pt 2152", "altitude": "2152m", "access": null, "description": "St Arnaud Range", "latlng": [ "-42.015819", "172.778265" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/nelson-lakes/st-arnaud-range/pt-2152/north-ridge", "name": "North Ridge", "grade": "2", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": "2", "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "From Upper Travers Hut, climb tussock and scree to a tussock shelf. Sidle north to a major scree slide reaching to loose rock under a saddle immediately north of the summit. An interesting rock ridge leads south to the summit." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": null }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/nelson-lakes/st-arnaud-range/pt-2152/south-ridge", "name": "South Ridge", "grade": "3+", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "3+", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "The peak can be climbed by traversing from Pt 2156 metres. In places it is narrow; there is an exposed 15m step." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": null }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/nelson-lakes/st-arnaud-range/pt-2152/west-face", "name": "West Face", "grade": "1", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "1", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "" } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": "A southern finger of the scree slide in North Ridge route leads to a narrow gully biting deep into the face. When the gully steepens to vertical rock, an old rockfall on the west side gives a route to firm slabs that gain the north ridge just under the summit.", "ascent": null } ], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/fiordland/earl-mountains/mt-charlton": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/fiordland/earl-mountains/mt-charlton", "name": "Mt Charlton", "altitude": "2152m", "access": null, "description": "Earl Mountains", "latlng": [ "-44.82678479", "167.99609959" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/fiordland/earl-mountains/mt-charlton/east-ridge", "name": "East Ridge", "grade": null, "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Dal Ryan, 1960." }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/fiordland/earl-mountains/mt-charlton/original-route", "name": "Original Route", "grade": null, "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "From Monkey Creek" } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Kurt Suter, Miss Cecily Ramsay, 1936." }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/fiordland/earl-mountains/mt-charlton/bush-parkour", "name": "Bush Parkour", "grade": "20", "topo_ref": null, "image": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/route/bush%20parkour.jpg?itok=9-TGBI_I", "images": [ { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/route/bush%20parkour.jpg?itok=9-TGBI_I", "height": "244", "width": "325" } ], "length": "550m", "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": "550m", "bolts": null, "trad": true, "ewbank": "20", "description": null } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": true, "description": "Excellent clean rock on the upper half of the face, good pro. Lots of potential for more lines, especially easier ones on the right-hand side of the face. Scramble up the large left-leaning ramp until it steepens.\nP1\u20132: continue up ramp until it tops out\nP3: straight up corner then flake system towards base of snow field (17)\nP4\u20135: scramble around snowfield to base of upper wall\nP6: easy climbing up wall aiming towards long clean corner\nP7: continue up towards shallow groove below corner, hanging belay left of the base of groove (19)\nP8: traverse right and move up groove to awesome belay ledge at base of corner (20, crux)\nP9: up corner, moving onto arete via big flake (18)\nP10\u201312: continue up, aiming for rib leading to summit.\nScramble to summit", "ascent": "Sam Waetford, Kyle Walter, February 2016" } ], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/nelson-lakes-kaik%C5%8Dura/raglan-range/pt-2152": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/nelson-lakes-kaik%C5%8Dura/raglan-range/pt-2152", "name": "Pt 2152", "altitude": "2152m", "access": null, "description": null, "latlng": [ "-41.948415", "173.013511" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/nelson-lakes-kaik%C5%8Dura/raglan-range/pt-2152/east-ridge", "name": "East Ridge", "grade": "1", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": "1", "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "From Lees Creek Hut follow tussock flats and then foot trails through forest to point 1144m and a river flat. Climb into the side stream on opposite bank, taking care beside a mossy waterfall, then follow loose rocky ribs onto pleasant easy slabs leading to the summit. Descend the north ridge into a basin and back down the stream. A good summer day trip." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": null } ], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/c58dhau-landsborough/barrier-range/pt-2151": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/c58dhau-landsborough/barrier-range/pt-2151", "name": "Pt 2151", "altitude": "2151m", "access": null, "description": null, "latlng": [ "-44.1251746972", "169.696862289" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/%C5%8Dhau-landsborough/barrier-range/pt-2151/top-hut", "name": "From Top Hut", "grade": "1", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "1", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": null } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": "From Top Hut climb through beech forest to reach tussock clothed valley. Easy\nstroll from there to summit.", "ascent": "Ross Cullen, March 2008" } ], "places": [], "image": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/wide/public/image/pk2151.jpg?itok=Te15icne", "images": [ { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/wide/public/image/pk2151.jpg?itok=Te15icne", "height": "432", "width": "704" } ] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aspiring/wilkin-river/pt-2151": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aspiring/wilkin-river/pt-2151", "name": "Pt 2151", "altitude": "2151m", "access": null, "description": "Accessed from Siberia Stream.", "latlng": [ "-44.19851829", "169.08662206" ], "routes": [], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/nelson-lakes/spenser-mountains/enid-pk": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/nelson-lakes/spenser-mountains/enid-pk", "name": "Enid Pk", "altitude": "2150m", "access": null, "description": null, "latlng": [ "-42.19329803", "172.61770248" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/nelson-lakes/spenser-mountains/enid-pk/north-ridge", "name": "North Ridge", "grade": "1", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": "1", "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "From Enid Pass, follow the ridge or scree slopes to the summit." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": null }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/nelson-lakes/spenser-mountains/enid-pk/south-east-ridge", "name": "South East Ridge", "grade": "1", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": "1", "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "From near the mouth of Enid Stream (map ref. M31/813888), climb directly up through bush and scrub onto a broad spur (or gain the spur at its toe), which leads to an interesting rock scramble (summer) or snow ar\u00eate (winter)." } ], "quality": 1, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "A Chappell, L J Dumbleton, Feb. 1932." } ], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aspiring/west-wanaka-mountains/mt-turner": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aspiring/west-wanaka-mountains/mt-turner", "name": "Mt Turner", "altitude": "2150m", "access": null, "description": null, "latlng": [ "-44.21923759", "169.08650831" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aspiring/west-wanaka-mountains/mt-turner/direct-wilkin-valley", "name": "Direct from Wilkin Valley", "grade": "1,II", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": "0m", "pitches": [ { "alpine": "1", "commitment": "II", "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": null } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": "0", "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "D Ball, L W Bruce, A R Craven, M McGuire, January 1953" } ], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aspiring/ice-king-tops/canon-pk": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aspiring/ice-king-tops/canon-pk", "name": "Canon Pk", "altitude": "2149m", "access": null, "description": null, "latlng": [ "-44.240772", "168.831282" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aspiring/ice-king-tops/canon-pk/east-face", "name": "East Face", "grade": "2,II", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": "2", "commitment": "II", "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": null } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": "Approach: Get here via the Donaldson, or via Pearl Drop Ice. For this approach, cross the Ice King Tops at the Eastern end, as per the Chasm Pass Route on Pollux (III,2). A recent (2020) ascent in late Summer did this by taking a long, unlikely looking diagonal ledge across a rock face (from the N end of the Pearl Drop Ice Basin), then continuing up and right on hanging snowslopes to gain the S ridge of pt 2239 above prominent gendarmes. Easily up the ridge above then traverse the E Face pt 2239 (straightforward but exposed) to Hugh Ice.\nClimb: Starting at the remnants of Hugh Ice, Steep scrambling on clean rock (good holds) leads up the E then lower angled NE slopes to the summit.", "ascent": "Allan Brent, Ruari Macfarlane, Feb 2020" } ], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/darrans/darran-mountains/mt-gifford": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/darrans/darran-mountains/mt-gifford", "name": "Mt Gifford", "altitude": "2149m", "access": null, "description": "Darran Mountains", "latlng": [ "-44.72473081", "168.07565017" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/darrans/darran-mountains/mt-gifford/north-east-ridge", "name": "North East Ridge", "grade": null, "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "Start just below the junction of Caples Creek with the Hollyford, climbing up through the bush to the North East Ridge and the East Peak." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Alistair McDonald, Ken Hamilton, Oct 1955." } ], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/nelson-lakes/mahanga-range/pt-2149": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/nelson-lakes/mahanga-range/pt-2149", "name": "Pt 2149", "altitude": "2149m", "access": null, "description": "North of Mt Mahanga. Pt 2140, north again on the ridge, can also be reached via the same route from the upper Sabine valley.", "latlng": [ "-42.09529278", "172.63349533" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/nelson-lakes/mahanga-range/pt-2149/west-sabine-route", "name": "West Sabine Route", "grade": "1", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": "1", "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "Above the tussock shelf of East Ridge route of Mt Mahanga, a rocky shelf gives various routes to the main range between the peaks." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": null } ], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/mt-burn-west": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/mt-burn-west", "name": "Pt 2149", "altitude": "2149m", "access": null, "description": null, "latlng": [ "-42.19225539", "172.46488991" ], "routes": [], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/c58dhau-landsborough/strachan-range/mt-matheson": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/c58dhau-landsborough/strachan-range/mt-matheson", "name": "Mt Matheson", "altitude": "2148m", "access": null, "description": null, "latlng": [ "-43.7961", "169.72" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/westland/hooker-range/mt-matheson/east-face", "name": "East Face", "grade": "2,III", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": "0m", "pitches": [ { "alpine": "2", "commitment": "III", "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": null } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": "0", "natural_pro": false, "description": "Climb the big snow couloir from the head of the \u014ctoko River to the broad saddle between Matherson and Dechen. Best approached when there is plenty of snow \u2013 an ice bulge near the top can prove troublesome late in the season. The eastern snowslopes then provide straightforward access to the peak.", "ascent": "Marjorie Edgar-Jones, Gladys Acton-Adams, Frank Alack, Tom Christie, March 1935" } ], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aspiring/humboldt-mountains/momus": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aspiring/humboldt-mountains/momus", "name": "Momus", "altitude": "2148m", "access": null, "description": "A traverse between Momus and Somnus is possible, generally along the long broken ridge.", "latlng": [ "-44.68467804", "168.2359593" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aspiring/humboldt-mountains/momus/south-east-face", "name": "South East Face", "grade": "I,2", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": "I", "mtcook": "2", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "From the Routeburn Track follow the track to Sugarloaf Pass. Above the bushline sidle left on snow grass ledges into the head of a small basin. Climb steepish gully (begins E40 341 019) gaining access to the basin above Bridal Veil Falls. From here follow snowfields to the couloir, which gives access to the summit.\r\n\r\nFrom the Routeburn Track follow the true left of Bridal Veil Creek to bush edge. Follow the left branch to the head of the valley gaining tussock ledges above bluffs at about 1,400m, giving access to the basin above Bridal Veil Falls. This route is a good descent route, dropping into the eastern side at times." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": null } ], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/main-divide-of-the-southern-alps/mt-stout": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/main-divide-of-the-southern-alps/mt-stout", "name": "Mt Stout", "altitude": "2148m", "access": null, "description": null, "latlng": [ "-43.077415", "171.160812" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/main-divide-of-the-southern-alps/mt-stout/main-divide-ridges", "name": "Main Divide Ridges", "grade": null, "topo_ref": "MDR", "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "A bump on the ridge, easily traversed on steep, sound rock once the Main Divide has been\r\nreached." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Roger Chester, Alan Willis, John Pascoe, December 1930" } ], "places": [], "image": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/wide/public/image/p267.png?itok=pxSb9-FY", "images": [ { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/wide/public/image/p267.png?itok=pxSb9-FY", "height": "731", "width": "900" } ] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/canterbury/jollie-range/mt-murray": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/canterbury/jollie-range/mt-murray", "name": "Mt Murray", "altitude": "2147m", "access": null, "description": "na", "latlng": [ "-43.29926", "170.975933" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/canterbury/jollie-range/mt-murray/north-and-west-ridges", "name": "North and West Ridges", "grade": "1", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "1", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "From a break in the scrub about 1 km east of Reischek Hut, climb a long scree slope to reach\r\neither the North or West Ridge. The North Ridge provides a straightforward route to the summit\r\n; the West Ridge is a steeper scramble." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "George Roberts, Charlie Douglas, 1880" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/canterbury/jollie-range/mt-murray/south-ridge", "name": "South Ridge", "grade": "1", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "1", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "Zig-zag through bluffs on scree ledges to reach the South Ridge and follow this to the summit." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": null } ], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/nelson-lakes-kaikc58dura/seaward-kaikc58dura-range/mt-saunders": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/nelson-lakes-kaikc58dura/seaward-kaikc58dura-range/mt-saunders", "name": "Mt Saunders", "altitude": "2146m", "access": null, "description": null, "latlng": [ "-42.2584", "173.5755" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/nelson-lakes-kaik%C5%8Dura/seaward-kaik%C5%8Dura-range/mt-saunders/south-ridge", "name": "South Ridge", "grade": "1,I", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": "1", "commitment": "I", "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "" } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": "From the Kowhai River, the long leading spur is gained from just downstream of Kowhai Hut. Near Pt 1368m, sidle a short tussock razorback below the crest on the east side, and then regain the spur.", "ascent": null } ], "places": [], "image": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/wide/public/image/Mt%20Saunders.%20%282%29.jpg?itok=CjevTgH6", "images": [ { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/wide/public/image/Mt%20Saunders.%20%282%29.jpg?itok=CjevTgH6", "height": "506", "width": "900" } ] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/main-divide-of-the-southern-alps/mt-odell": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/main-divide-of-the-southern-alps/mt-odell", "name": "Mt Odell", "altitude": "2145m", "access": null, "description": "Named after Noel E Odell, honorary member of NZAC.\nYvonne Cook and Geoff Spearpoint,\nin association with the Canterbury Mountaineering Club", "latlng": [ "-43.417895", "170.613991" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/main-divide-of-the-southern-alps/mt-odell/south-and-north-ridges", "name": "South and North Ridges", "grade": "1+", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "1+", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "Straightforward climbing. The original ascent involved a north to south traverse of the peak." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "John Rogers, David Hall, December 1950" } ], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/arthurs-pass/aicken-range/mt-franklin": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/arthurs-pass/aicken-range/mt-franklin", "name": "Mt Franklin", "altitude": "2145m", "access": null, "description": "A very imposing pinnacle of rock. On many occasions it still manages to pierce the notorious West Coast cloud (something of a redeeming quality). It is by far the best climb east of Arthur\u2019s Pass.", "latlng": [ "-42.86995694", "171.65948868" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/arthurs-pass/aicken-range/mt-franklin/north-ridge", "name": "North Ridge", "grade": "14,4,III", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": "4", "commitment": "III", "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": "14", "description": null } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": "From the Good Luck Creek basin, ascend to and cross over Pt 1652m on the West Ridge, descending to the 1560m contour at the head of the unnamed stream below the northwestern slopes of Mt Franklin. From here sidle scree slopes in a northeasterly direction, aiming for the low point on the ridge between Mt Franklin and Pt 1806m. The ridge is mostly good rock scrambling (up to Grade 10) with moderate exposure to about three-quarters height. Here the ridge steepens with two 40\u201350m pitches of Grade 12, with one short section up to Grade 14 (although it may be possible to avoid this). The summit is a further 100m of about Grade 10 scrambling.", "ascent": "Raphael Bullet, Ryan Nicol, 24 March 2019" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/arthurs-pass/aicken-range/mt-franklin/west-ridge", "name": "West Ridge", "grade": "13,3+,III", "topo_ref": "1", "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": "3+", "commitment": "III", "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": "13", "description": null } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": "Approach from Good Luck Creek basin via the Deception River route or alternatively via the densely wooded spur that leaves the Deception River at K33 974151, on the true left of the stream that drains the Franklin-Russell escarpment. This ridge is notoriously long and loose, and has multiple gendarmes. Once committed to this route there are no escape routes, however travel tends to be fast over large sections. Considered a mid spring climb when ice clings to it. The ridge can be dangerously corniced under winter conditions, making it extremely hard to negotiate. Descend by the south ridge.", "ascent": null }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/arthurs-pass/aicken-range/mt-franklin/south-ridge", "name": "South Ridge", "grade": "2,III", "topo_ref": "2", "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": "2", "commitment": "III", "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": null } ], "quality": 1, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": "Reach the Good Luck Creek basin, and Lake Anna, by ascending the scree slide upstream of Upper Deception Hut to the scrub line and then sidling at the 1400\u20131500m contour into the head of the creek. Above Lake Anna, gain the col at 1890m and traverse slabby rock and shattered pinnacles. If good snow ramps exist this section can be bypassed by climbing a snow lead and short couloir further left under the South Ridge. The South Ridge rises steeply to merge with the West Ridge. An excellent route. The upper ridge can be dangerously corniced under winter conditions, making it extremely hard to negotiate.", "ascent": "A C Snowden, A S Ahnfeldt, November 1930" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/arthurs-pass/aicken-range/mt-franklin/south-west-ridge", "name": "South West Ridge", "grade": "3,III", "topo_ref": "3", "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": "3", "commitment": "III", "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": null } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": "A long climb. From opposite Goat Pass Hut utilise the obvious deep gully and notch to gain the ridge. The initial ridge to Pt 1975m point is generally straightforward. Not far past this point a significant notch in the ridge requires a short, steep and exposed down-climb on the Deception side, and several gendarmes must be negotiated on the ridge to reach the Lake Anna col and the South Ridge.\nDescend the South Ridge and Good Luck Creek route via Lake Anna.", "ascent": null }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/arthurs-pass/aicken-range/mt-franklin/south-west-ridge-couloirs", "name": "South West Ridge Couloirs", "grade": "2+,III", "topo_ref": "4", "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": "2+", "commitment": "III", "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": null } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": "This route can be climbed in winter to late spring by reaching the head of the Deception River from Goat Pass Hut. Scree or snow slopes head through the lower bluff to reach the steep snowfield (avalanche danger!) below Pt 1975m on the South West Ridge. In a normal season three 150m couloirs gain the South West Ridge. Continue along the South West Ridge and South Ridge to the summit. Return via Lake Anna and the Good Luck Creek basin route.", "ascent": null }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/arthurs-pass/aicken-range/mt-franklin/mt-oates-mt-franklin-ridge", "name": "Mt Oates-Mt Franklin Ridge", "grade": "3+,III", "topo_ref": "5", "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": "3+", "commitment": "III", "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": null } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": "This ridge is a very long journey from Goat Pass and would be better tackled from a camp near Lake Mavis. Gain the ridge along the Main Range above the lake, following its initially broad back to the second knoll (1864m). From here the ridge narrows, taking a steep approach to the summit of the next buttress (1876m). The ridge turns west over the exposed slabs above Lake Sally and the deep gut of the upper Deception, climbing steeply over broken ground to join the South West Ridge. From here descend to the col above Lake Anna then climb the steep South Ridge to the summit. Be well prepared for a forced bivvy as it is a very long day\u2019s outing!", "ascent": null } ], "places": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/arthurs-pass/aicken-range/mt-franklin/lake-sally", "name": "From Lake Sally", "altitude": null, "access": "Lake Sally is at best difficult to approach. Access is from the Otehake River West Branch, either by the ridge and loose, bush-covered slopes south of the stream which drains the lake, or alternatively by ascending slopes on the north side of the same stream and sidling around the base of the East Ridge to reach the lake.", "description": "There are several routes on the eastern aspects of Mt Franklin. A high camp at Lake Sally is strongly recommended, under the knoll near its outflow. Under winter conditions the routes can all be fraught by overhanging cornices. Eastern descents from Mt Franklin tend to be very steep but natural anchors are available to abseil directly onto the snowfield.", "latlng": null, "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/arthurs-pass/aicken-range/mt-franklin/lake-sally/way-down-sally", "name": "Way Down Sally", "grade": "5-", "topo_ref": null, "image": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/route/Franklin_SE_Face.jpg?itok=ieaW8P12", "images": [ { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/route/Franklin_SE_Face.jpg?itok=ieaW8P12", "height": "244", "width": "325" } ], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "5-", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": null } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": "Take the narrow couloir that starts on the right-hand side of the main\nbuttress in the centre of the South East Face. Ascend 3 pitches to the\nsnowfield at mid-height. Trend left up the snow field for 1 pitch to the rock\nrib. Follow the gully to the right of this onto the upper snowfields. Eight\npitches in total. Join the South Ridge (8.7) approximately 75m to the SW of\nthe summit. Descend via the South Ridge.", "ascent": "Don French, James Wright, 22 October 2006" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/arthurs-pass/aicken-range/mt-franklin/lake-sally/sally-can%E2%80%99t-dance", "name": "Sally Can\u2019t Dance", "grade": "4-,WI3", "topo_ref": "Blue Line", "image": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/routes/Franklin_SE_Face.jpg?itok=HmN240xj", "images": [ { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/routes/Franklin_SE_Face.jpg?itok=HmN240xj", "height": "244", "width": "325" } ], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "4-", "aid": null, "ice": "WI3", "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": null } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": "2 pitches of WI 3 ice lead to a snow couloir, which widens and joins the main ridge 30m south of the summit. Descent made via east ridge and upper east ridge snow fields requiring one abseil.\nTo the R of the French/Wright line Way down Sally.", "ascent": "Josh Mitchell, Ben Ellis, 27 July 2019" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/arthurs-pass/aicken-range/mt-franklin/lake-sally/east-ridge", "name": "East Ridge", "grade": "2", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": "2", "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": null } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": "The steep, jagged East Ridge merges into the East Face of the mountain.\nTraverse northwards to gain the steep gullies ascending to the summit.", "ascent": null }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/arthurs-pass/aicken-range/mt-franklin/lake-sally/upper-east-snowfield-couloirs", "name": "Upper East Snowfield Couloirs", "grade": "2", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": "2", "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": null } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": "From the permanent snowfield north of the East Ridge, three very steep\ncouloirs gain the summit directly. These all tend to provide better climbs\nduring the frozen winter months.", "ascent": null }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/arthurs-pass/aicken-range/mt-franklin/lake-sally/north-east-ridge", "name": "North East Ridge", "grade": "2", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": "2", "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": null } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": "From the Lake Sally outlet, head north and sidle under the North East\nRidge\u2019s southern flank, climbing the first possible gully to its crest. The\nridge is followed cautiously to the summit.", "ascent": null } ], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] } ], "image": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/wide/public/image/AP028.jpg?itok=mxdqvyeG", "images": [ { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/wide/public/image/AP028.jpg?itok=mxdqvyeG", "height": "480", "width": "709" } ] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/%C5%8Dhau-landsborough/main-divide/mt-kitson": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/%C5%8Dhau-landsborough/main-divide/mt-kitson", "name": "Mt Kitson", "altitude": "2145m", "access": null, "description": null, "latlng": [ "-43.9134", "169.7629" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/%C5%8Dhau-landsborough/main-divide/mt-kitson/chloe-col", "name": "From Chloe Col", "grade": "1", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "1", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": null } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": "Easy travel along the divide from Chloe Col.", "ascent": "Christopher Johnson, Scott Russell, Brian Wyn Irwin January 1933" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/%C5%8Dhau-landsborough/main-divide/mt-kitson/west-flank", "name": "West Flank", "grade": "1", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "1", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": null } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": "An alternative west \u2013east crossing point is to follow the easy sidle from\nthe south around the west flank of Mt Welch to reach Chloe Col.", "ascent": "Graham Burns, Brian Wyn Irwin, Christopher Johnson, Scott Russell, January 1933" } ], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/canterbury-westland-alps/main-divide/laws-pk": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/canterbury-westland-alps/main-divide/laws-pk", "name": "Laws Pk", "altitude": "2144m", "access": null, "description": null, "latlng": [ "-43.171195", "171.028032" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/canterbury-westland-alps/main-divide/laws-pk/west", "name": "From the West", "grade": "1", "topo_ref": "FW", "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "1", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "A scramble from the west." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Phillip Willis, P M Garwith, November 1940" } ], "places": [], "image": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/wide/public/image/p259_0.png?itok=6asirNpW", "images": [ { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/wide/public/image/p259_0.png?itok=6asirNpW", "height": "587", "width": "900" } ] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/c58dhau-landsborough/barrier-range/pt-2143": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/c58dhau-landsborough/barrier-range/pt-2143", "name": "Pt 2143", "altitude": "2143m", "access": null, "description": null, "latlng": [ "-44.04086713", "169.78057587" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/%C5%8Dhau-landsborough/barrier-range/pt-2143/east-face", "name": "East Face", "grade": "1", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "1", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": null } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": "A good viewpoint above Monument Hut. Follow the track south of hut, struggle\nthough the beech forest, then scramble to the peak.", "ascent": "Tom Brodrick and others 1890" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/%C5%8Dhau-landsborough/barrier-range/pt-2143/honey-badger", "name": "Honey Badger", "grade": "WI4", "topo_ref": null, "image": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/route/honeybadger.jpg?itok=uTFg4oqA", "images": [ { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/route/honeybadger.jpg?itok=uTFg4oqA", "height": "256", "width": "325" } ], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": "WI4", "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": null } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": "Honey Badger can be found in a secluded gully system draining the east side of Pt 2143m. Head up the first fan downstream of Monument Hut and continue up the gully to approximately the 1200m contour. The lower part of the climb is not readily visible. Climb four long pitches, WI3\u2013WI4 with a solid WI4 crux. The best descent is to abseil the route.", "ascent": "Jamie Vinton-Boot, Paul Hersey, August 2011" } ], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/node/8745": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/node/8745", "name": "Mt Gifford East Pk", "altitude": "2143m", "access": null, "description": "East Peak of Mt Gifford", "latlng": [ "-44.724787", "168.079666" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/node/8745/west-ridge", "name": "West Ridge", "grade": null, "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Richard Stewart, Jim Milne, Jan 1959." } ], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/2142": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/2142", "name": "Pt 2142", "altitude": "2142m", "access": null, "description": "Richardson Mountains", "latlng": [ "-44.77210847", "168.55378586" ], "routes": [], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/nelson-lakes/st-arnaud-range/pt-2142": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/nelson-lakes/st-arnaud-range/pt-2142", "name": "Pt 2142", "altitude": "2142m", "access": null, "description": "East of the main St Arnaud Range, between the Rainbow River and Connors Creek.", "latlng": [ "-42.01555", "172.845336" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/nelson-lakes/st-arnaud-range/pt-2142/south-ridge", "name": "South Ridge", "grade": "1", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": "1", "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "Rianbow River. Pleasant scrambling up a long ridge between two streams from north bank of the Rainbow River." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": null } ], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aspiring/west-wanaka-mountains/mt-kuri": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aspiring/west-wanaka-mountains/mt-kuri", "name": "Mt Kuri", "altitude": "2141m", "access": null, "description": null, "latlng": [ "-44.20569334", "169.00723715" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aspiring/west-wanaka-mountains/mt-kuri/north-ridge", "name": "North Ridge", "grade": null, "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "From Newland Valley, climb to the saddle north of the peak." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "F Evison, R Jackson, R Oliver, December 1945" } ], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/arthurs-pass/birdwood-range/pt-2140": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/arthurs-pass/birdwood-range/pt-2140", "name": "Pt 2140", "altitude": "2140m", "access": null, "description": "Birdwood Range", "latlng": [ "-43.11452283", "171.43316372" ], "routes": [], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aspiring/main-divide/wills-pk": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aspiring/main-divide/wills-pk", "name": "Wills Pk", "altitude": "2140m", "access": null, "description": null, "latlng": [ "-43.9587", "169.6086" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aspiring/main-divide/wills-pk/hunter-valley", "name": "From Hunter Valley", "grade": "2+", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": "0m", "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "2+", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": null } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": "0", "natural_pro": false, "description": "From a camp in the Hunter Valley West Branch, underneath Upper Studholme\nPass, climb the tussock slopes and rock to gain the summit.", "ascent": "John Chivers, Caroline Cotton, Rob Mitchell, Euan Warburton, Laurie White, January 1962" } ], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/nelson-lakes/st-arnaud-range/pk-2140": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/nelson-lakes/st-arnaud-range/pk-2140", "name": "Pt 2140", "altitude": "2140m", "access": null, "description": "St Arnaud Range", "latlng": [ "-42.026658", "172.775089" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/nelson-lakes/st-arnaud-range/pk-2140/pk-2156", "name": "Via Pk 2156", "grade": "1", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": "1", "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "The south-east ridge of Pk 2156m leads to a fine peak but is difficult and includes a deep notch." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": null } ], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/nelson-lakes/st-arnaud-range/pt-2138": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/nelson-lakes/st-arnaud-range/pt-2138", "name": "Pt 2138", "altitude": "2138m", "access": null, "description": null, "latlng": [ "-42.089242", "172.716322" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/nelson-lakes/st-arnaud-range/pt-2138/north-ridge", "name": "North Ridge", "grade": "1", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": "1", "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "Climb the rock ridge from the northern Sabine \u2013 Rainbow pass." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": null } ], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/main-divide-of-the-southern-alps/eric-twins": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/main-divide-of-the-southern-alps/eric-twins", "name": "Eric Twins", "altitude": "2137m", "access": null, "description": "2123m and 2137m", "latlng": [ "-43.398687", "170.633383" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/main-divide-of-the-southern-alps/eric-twins/main-divide-ridges", "name": "Main Divide Ridges", "grade": "1+", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "1+", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "Straightforward climbing along the Main Divide, first completed as a north-south traverse." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Jack Pattle, Dave Parr, Peter Grigg, Bruce Graham, Trevor James, February 1950" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/main-divide-of-the-southern-alps/eric-twins/east-ridge", "name": "East Ridge", "grade": "1", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "1", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "Head up the glacier leading to Gunn Pass and follow the East Ridge, which merges with the face\r\nof the lower Eric Twin. The higher Twin is reached via the straightforward Main Divide ridge." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Russell Pearce, Peter Bain, Colin Burrows, Graeme d\u2019Arcy, March 1951" } ], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/nelson-lakes/st-arnaud-range/pt-2136": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/nelson-lakes/st-arnaud-range/pt-2136", "name": "Pt 2136", "altitude": "2136m", "access": null, "description": null, "latlng": [ "-42.037802", "172.823364" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/nelson-lakes/st-arnaud-range/pt-2136/east-ridge", "name": "East Ridge", "grade": "1", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": "1", "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "From the north bank of the Rainbow River, climb up the true right bank of the stream south of the peak, and into delightful tarns surrounded by red rock. Climb scree to the ridge east of the peak, then a steep scramble to the top." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": null } ], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/westland/galena-ridge/mt-beaumont": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/westland/galena-ridge/mt-beaumont", "name": "Mt Beaumont", "altitude": "2136m", "access": null, "description": "na", "latlng": [ "-43.099165", "170.930099" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/westland/galena-ridge/mt-beaumont/south-west-ridge", "name": "South West Ridge", "grade": "1-", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "Mt Beaumont is easily approached from the route between Ivory Lake and Top Tuke (see\r\nabove). Once on the range, follow the broad ridge north-east to the summit." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "N McConochie, C Shuttleworth, G G Atkinson and companion, December 1935" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/westland/galena-ridge/mt-beaumont/east-ridge", "name": "East Ridge", "grade": "1-", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "From the Whitcombe River at Price Flat follow the marked track up to Steadman Brow\r\n(which, the middle part excepted, has been recently recut by DOC). There are two large cairns\r\nat J34 464890 / BV18 364 274 and a tarn along Cropp Brow at about J34 469892 / BV18 369 276.\r\nTravel along Steadman Brow is straightforward." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": null }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/westland/galena-ridge/mt-beaumont/cropp-basin", "name": "From Cropp Basin", "grade": "1-", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "Follow up the Cropp River to where it forks at J34 435901 / BV18 335 285 and continue up the\r\ntrue right branch. This section is slow, bouldery and scrubby. At a side creek on the true left\r\n(J34 431896 / BV18 331 280), head west, following the true right of this side creek to the ridge\r\nat J34 422895 / BV18 322 279. Continue up slopes west of Pt 1695 metres to the snowfield at\r\nJ34 416886 / BV18 316 270 and on to Mt Beaumont." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": null } ], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/urquhart-south": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/urquhart-south", "name": "Pt 2135", "altitude": "2135m", "access": null, "description": null, "latlng": [ "-43.13406609", "171.11795128" ], "routes": [], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aspiring/barrier-range/hedin-pk": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aspiring/barrier-range/hedin-pk", "name": "Hedin Pk", "altitude": "2135m", "access": null, "description": null, "latlng": [ "-44.50775", "168.34887" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aspiring/barrier-range/hedin-pk/standard-route", "name": "Standard Route", "grade": null, "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "From the Dredge Burn or the Dart Valley, continue climbing instead of descending to the Margaret Glacier." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": null } ], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/canterbury-westland-alps/main-divide/dolphin-pk": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/canterbury-westland-alps/main-divide/dolphin-pk", "name": "Dolphin Pk", "altitude": "2135m", "access": null, "description": null, "latlng": [ "-43.407355", "170.627804" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/canterbury-westland-alps/main-divide/dolphin-pk/north-east-and-south-west-ridges", "name": "North East and South West Ridges", "grade": "2-", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "2-", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "Reach the summit ridges from the vicinity of Eric Twins or Dennistoun Pass and follow to the\r\nsummit. The original ascent involved a traverse of the peak." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Jack Pattle, Dave Parr, Peter Grigg, Bruce Graham, Trevor James, February 1950" } ], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/otago/elcho%E2%80%93huxley-ridges/hut-pk": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/otago/elcho%E2%80%93huxley-ridges/hut-pk", "name": "Hut Pk", "altitude": "2135m", "access": null, "description": "TBA", "latlng": [ "-43.9311", "169.7981" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/otago/elcho%E2%80%93huxley-ridges/hut-pk/east-ridge", "name": "East Ridge", "grade": "1", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "1", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": null } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": "Ascend via the stream 300m south of Elcho Hut. Near 1000m altitude angle\nright up a vegetated gully to reach the east ridge. Climb along the ridge to\nreach 1750m. Traverse left to gain southeast facing snowfield and angle\nupwards to reach the ridge 50m south of the summit.", "ascent": "Bruce Gillies during the 1940's. Scramble" } ], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/fiordland/darran-mountains/mt-parariki": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/fiordland/darran-mountains/mt-parariki", "name": "Mt Parariki", "altitude": "2134m", "access": null, "description": "First ascended by Marie Byles, Tom Cameron, Kurt Suter, 1937.", "latlng": [ "-44.563738", "167.995269" ], "routes": [], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/canterbury/two-thumb-range/east-sentinel": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/canterbury/two-thumb-range/east-sentinel", "name": "East Sentinel", "altitude": "2133m", "access": null, "description": "First climbed by Gordon Atkinson and D McWha in April 1932.", "latlng": [ "-43.49123192", "170.6286552" ], "routes": [], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/node/12383": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/node/12383", "name": "Urquhart Pk", "altitude": "2132m", "access": null, "description": "Urquhart Peak is named after the Urquhart family who managed Algidus Station in the 1920s and 1930s.", "latlng": [ "-43.12354", "171.123304" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/node/12383/north-west-ridge", "name": "North West Ridge", "grade": null, "topo_ref": "NWr", "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "" } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": "Originally reached from the long ridge commencing from the confluence of the North Mathias River and Canyon Creek.", "ascent": "Roger Chester, Alan Willis, John Pascoe, December 1930" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/node/12383/north-west-face", "name": "North West Face", "grade": "1+", "topo_ref": "NWf", "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "1+", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": null } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": "From the West Mathias River, follow the side creek draining Urquhart Peak to a basin at its head. From here climb mixed snow and rock to the top.", "ascent": null }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/node/12383/south-ridge", "name": "South Ridge", "grade": null, "topo_ref": "SR", "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "" } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": "From the West Mathias River, follow the side creek draining Urquhart Peak. Before gaining the basin at the head of the creek follow a rock spur leading to the South Ridge. Scramble up the ridge, negotiating a steep tricky step before the summit.", "ascent": "Gerry Auton, Joe Hulek, Nowell Syme, Bill Truman, A (Bun) Wicks, January 1950" } ], "places": [], "image": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/wide/public/image/Urquhart.png?itok=LCW9M2lq", "images": [ { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/wide/public/image/Urquhart.png?itok=LCW9M2lq", "height": "586", "width": "900" } ] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/westland/maximilian-range/mt-park": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/westland/maximilian-range/mt-park", "name": "Mt Park", "altitude": "2132m", "access": null, "description": "na", "latlng": [ "-43.439334", "170.346279" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/westland/maximilian-range/mt-park/east-face", "name": "East Face", "grade": "1+", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "1+", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "From Whymper Hut follow the valley draining between Mt Wilczek and Mt Alec, bypassing a\r\nsteeper section by utilising easier slopes near Pt 1573 metres. Near the range, head north on snow\r\nto access snow slopes leading to the summit from the south-east." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Dave Dawe, Roger Evans (from the Leonard Glacier), January 1954" } ], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/arthurs-pass/birdwood-range/mt-avoca": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/arthurs-pass/birdwood-range/mt-avoca", "name": "Mt Avoca", "altitude": "2131m", "access": null, "description": "tba", "latlng": [ "-43.03411", "171.404048" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/arthurs-pass/birdwood-range/mt-avoca/mt-greenlaw", "name": "Via Mt Greenlaw", "grade": "2", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": "2", "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "Mt Avoca can be reached via Mt Greenlaw using the very jagged joining ridge." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": null }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/arthurs-pass/birdwood-range/mt-avoca/avoca-river", "name": "From Avoca River", "grade": "1", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "1", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "Pick a route on scree through steep rock and bluffs, initially making a rising traverse to the\r\nnorth-west, to reach the glacier north-east of the summit of Mt Avoca. From here gain the\r\nNorth East Ridge and climb loose rock to the top." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": null }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/arthurs-pass/birdwood-range/mt-avoca/burnett-stream", "name": "From Burnett Stream", "grade": null, "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "About 4 km from Weka-Burnett Bivouac take a prominent scree gully south of Pt 1598 metres.\r\nFrom the head of the scree traverse north to avoid bluffs and aim for the base of a broad ramp\r\nleading to the summit. Scramble over the last steep loose rock to the top. This route is tricky\r\nwhen there is no consolidated snow." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": null } ], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/nelson-lakes-kaik%C5%8Dura/acheron%E2%80%93waihopai-mountains/pt-2131": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/nelson-lakes-kaik%C5%8Dura/acheron%E2%80%93waihopai-mountains/pt-2131", "name": "Pt 2131", "altitude": "2131m", "access": null, "description": null, "latlng": [ "-42.00950005", "173.31031695" ], "routes": [], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/main-divide-of-the-southern-alps/mt-frieda": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/main-divide-of-the-southern-alps/mt-frieda", "name": "Mt Frieda", "altitude": "2130m", "access": null, "description": null, "latlng": [ "-43.098852", "171.094379" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/main-divide-of-the-southern-alps/mt-frieda/kea-pass", "name": "From Kea Pass", "grade": null, "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "From Kea Pass climb easy snow and rock slopes to the small glacier between Mt Carl and Mt\r\nFrieda. Climb the South Ridge to the summit" } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Roger Chester (as part of a traverse from Mt Carl), December 1930" } ], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/main-divide-of-the-southern-alps/mt-notman": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/main-divide-of-the-southern-alps/mt-notman", "name": "Mt Notman", "altitude": "2130m", "access": null, "description": null, "latlng": [ "-43.079484", "171.154633" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/main-divide-of-the-southern-alps/mt-notman/main-divide-ridges", "name": "Main Divide Ridges", "grade": null, "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "Once on the Main Divide, travel is straightforward on steep, sound rock." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Roger Chester, Alan Willis, John Pascoe, December 1930" } ], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/2128": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/2128", "name": "Pt 2128", "altitude": "2128m", "access": null, "description": null, "latlng": [ "-44.12164792", "169.49563173" ], "routes": [], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/westland/bloomfield-range/artist-dome": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/westland/bloomfield-range/artist-dome", "name": "Artist Dome", "altitude": "2128m", "access": null, "description": "na", "latlng": [ "-43.164121", "170.880146" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/westland/bloomfield-range/artist-dome/north-west-ridge", "name": "North West Ridge", "grade": "1", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "1", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "Though the rock is loose, traversing the range from Mt Bloomfield to Artist Dome is easy,\r\nsidling slightly on the Reid Creek side if required. The ridge can also be approached at Pt 1892\r\nmetres from the basin to the east, a branch of Reid Creek." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Phil Willis, Austen A Deans, 12 March 1948" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/westland/bloomfield-range/artist-dome/county-hut", "name": "From County Hut", "grade": null, "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "Follow the spur on the true left of Bloomfield Creek leading over Pt 1625 metres to\r\nthe Bloomfield Range. Artist Dome can also be approached from the County at about\r\nJ34 380788 / BW18 280 172. This leads to snow slopes south of Artist Dome and the summit.\r\nArtist Dome offers wonderful views of the County Glacier and Mt Evans. An alternative\r\nCounty approach from further east (at J34 388794 / BW18 288 178) leads up a gravel spur to\r\nPt 1934 metres on the range proper." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": null } ], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aspiring/west-wanaka-mountains/pt-2127": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aspiring/west-wanaka-mountains/pt-2127", "name": "Pt 2127", "altitude": "2127m", "access": null, "description": null, "latlng": [ "-44.36306627", "168.89613401" ], "routes": [], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aspiring/west-wanaka-mountains/mt-twilight": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aspiring/west-wanaka-mountains/mt-twilight", "name": "Mt Twilight", "altitude": "2127m", "access": null, "description": null, "latlng": [ "-44.29807917", "168.893112" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aspiring/west-wanaka-mountains/mt-twilight/standard-route", "name": "Standard Route", "grade": "I,1", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": "I", "mtcook": "1", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "Usually climbed via the leading spur that runs up from Waterfall Flat in the South Wilkin.\r\n\r\nOn the first ascent the ridge south of the peak was reached via a dry creek bed from the South Wilkin. The party descended the East Ridge to a point where it was possible to drop down through bush to the Wilkin Valley floor." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "B Patterson, F Newmarch, H D Ombler, R Webster, Dec 1945." } ], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/major-peak": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/major-peak", "name": "Major Pk", "altitude": "2126m", "access": null, "description": null, "latlng": [ "-44.91233808", "168.4746237" ], "routes": [], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/canterbury/st-james-range/mt-princess": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/canterbury/st-james-range/mt-princess", "name": "Mt Princess", "altitude": "2126m", "access": null, "description": "Saint James Range", "latlng": [ "-42.17960722", "172.69135578" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/canterbury/st-james-range/mt-princess/princess-bath-route", "name": "Princess Bath Route", "grade": "1", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": "1", "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "From Maling Pass, follow easy spurs into a series of tussock basins (good camping), then scree to Princess Bath. Scree chutes lead to the south-east and south-west ridges. Or, best, the central gully." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": null } ], "places": [], "image": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/wide/public/image/1-PA280240.JPG?itok=kg4DBcLX", "images": [ { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/wide/public/image/1-PA280240.JPG?itok=kg4DBcLX", "height": "675", "width": "900" } ] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aspiring/haast-range/spike": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aspiring/haast-range/spike", "name": "Spike", "altitude": "2126m", "access": null, "description": "The first ascent of Spike was made by Peter Brook, Colin Todd and Kemp Fowler on January 11, 1949.", "latlng": [ "-44.320538", "168.733079" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aspiring/haast-range/spike/south-west-face", "name": "South West Face", "grade": "III,2", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": "III", "mtcook": "2", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "Follow route as far as the bench below Spike. The peak is climbed by a snow face on the south west side, followed by 80m of unpleasantly loose rock." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Peter Brook, Colin Todd, Kemp Fowler, 11 January, 1949" } ], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/c58dhau-landsborough/hooker-range/gladiator": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/c58dhau-landsborough/hooker-range/gladiator", "name": "The Gladiator", "altitude": "2125m", "access": null, "description": "Hooker Range", "latlng": [ "-43.71073127", "169.96291474" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/westland/hooker-range/the-gladiator/south-face", "name": "South Face", "grade": "1", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "1", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": null } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": "The Maori Glacier provides an easy southern approach to the peak.", "ascent": "Arthur Harper, December 1894" } ], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/canterbury/two-thumb-range/oklahoma": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/canterbury/two-thumb-range/oklahoma", "name": "Oklahoma", "altitude": "2125m", "access": null, "description": "Two Thumb Range", "latlng": [ "-43.4427", "170.646944" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/canterbury/two-thumb-range/oklahoma/forbes-river", "name": "From Forbes River", "grade": "1+", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "1+", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "Follow the scree slope opposite Forbes Bivvy towards a rocky spur. After following this for a\r\nshort distance, cross to the snowfield and follow the narrow south ridge to the top." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Maurice Pilbrow, Cedric Pilbrow, Tom Beckett, April 1934" } ], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/c58dhau-landsborough/barrier-range/pt-2124": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/c58dhau-landsborough/barrier-range/pt-2124", "name": "Pt 2124", "altitude": "2124m", "access": null, "description": null, "latlng": [ "-44.099985", "169.701101" ], "routes": [], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/westland/butler-range/mt-whataroa": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/westland/butler-range/mt-whataroa", "name": "Mt Whataroa", "altitude": "2123m", "access": null, "description": "Mt Whataroa is one of the dramatic buttressed peaks visible on the Butler Range when looking up the\nWhataroa Valley from the highway.", "latlng": [ "-43.393136", "170.505066" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/westland/butler-range/mt-whataroa/ice-lake", "name": "From Ice Lake", "grade": null, "topo_ref": "IL", "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "Access the n\u00e9v\u00e9 of the Whataroa Glacier. Cross this and climb to the Butler Range, aiming for\r\nthe saddle immediately east of Mt Whataroa. About 200 metres of rock scrambling leads to\r\nthe summit." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "J Sampson, S Conway, D O W Hall, A Anderson, January 1949" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/westland/butler-range/mt-whataroa/north-west-buttress", "name": "North West Buttress", "grade": "13,3", "topo_ref": "NWB", "image": null, "images": [], "length": "800m", "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "3", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": "800m", "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": "13", "description": "This 800-metre buttress is visible from\r\nthe road bridge. Grass on the lower half\r\nof the route lets the climb down, but\r\ncan be largely avoided by using a snow\r\ngully on the right. This gives access to\r\na ramp/ledge leading out left onto the\r\nbuttress proper. A difficult section of\r\nsteep rock follows, where there is still\r\nsome moss and grass. Eventually, solid\r\nrock climbing on schist slabs offers much\r\nbetter going. These lead to the summit\r\ncrags. Climbing potential also exists on\r\nthe pinnacle between Mt Whataroa and\r\nTohunga Peak." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Guy McKinnon, 16 January 2007" } ], "places": [], "image": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/wide/public/image/WhatGl_1.png?itok=b2vtmNUF", "images": [ { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/wide/public/image/WhatGl_1.png?itok=b2vtmNUF", "height": "583", "width": "900" }, { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/image/MtWhataroa.png?itok=huoHZsuG", "height": "325", "width": "253" } ] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/c58dhau-landsborough/paringa-moeraki-mountains/lantern-pk": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/c58dhau-landsborough/paringa-moeraki-mountains/lantern-pk", "name": "Lantern Pk", "altitude": "2123m", "access": null, "description": null, "latlng": [ "-43.81346498503", "169.61774374695" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/westland/hooker-range/lantern-pk/east-ridge", "name": "East Ridge", "grade": "2,III", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": "0m", "pitches": [ { "alpine": "2", "commitment": "III", "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": null } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": "0", "natural_pro": false, "description": "The Jack Creek-Murdoch Creek saddle is easily gained from Jack Creek. From the saddle, surmount a rock step before a scramble to the summit.", "ascent": "Bruce Popplewell, Bill Stephenson, January 1965" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/westland/hooker-range/lantern-pk/north-face", "name": "North Face", "grade": "2,III", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": "0m", "pitches": [ { "alpine": "2", "commitment": "III", "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": null } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": "0", "natural_pro": false, "description": "From the head of the Valley of Darkness, pick a route through bluffs to easier ground leading to the summit.", "ascent": "Jude Fairclothe, Harry Keys, Bryan Sissons, Ken Taylor, January 1976" } ], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/castle-mount": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/castle-mount", "name": "Pariroa Castle Mount", "altitude": "2122m", "access": null, "description": null, "latlng": [ "-44.84780003", "167.77882903" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/castle-mount/clinton-canyon", "name": "From Clinton Canyon", "grade": null, "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": "1600m", "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": "1600m", "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": null } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": "0", "natural_pro": false, "description": "Leave the Milford Track about 2km past Pompolona Lodge. Climb steep vegetation up to the basin below Pt 1876. Now traverse southwards, keeping on the Clinton side, and get onto the summit ridge at about Pt 2003.", "ascent": "Brian Wilkins, R E (Dick) Wareing, 11 December 1956" } ], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki/godley-river/bruce-murray": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki/godley-river/bruce-murray", "name": "Bruce Murray", "altitude": "2120m", "access": null, "description": "On the ridge SE of Mt Moffat", "latlng": [ "-43.470519", "170.468312" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki/godley-river/bruce-murray/unnamed", "name": "Unnamed", "grade": null, "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "The peak can be climbed from Panorama, from Elizabeth Glacier (gaining the col between the summit and Panorama) and from Easter Glacier." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "A J Scott, R H Booth, David Hall, Apr 1931" } ], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aspiring/main-divide/square-top": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aspiring/main-divide/square-top", "name": "Square Top", "altitude": "2120m", "access": null, "description": "Leaving Wyn Irwin with his maps, compasses and camera, we climbed further onto the next peak at the head of the valley (Square Top, about 7000 feet). Although the Divide ar\u00eate consists of vertically heaped slates, somewhat loose, we had to risk its traverse on account of a schrund on the Hunter side and a tedious detour on the other.\nAt this stage, two of us being absolute novices, we would willingly have thrown our ice-axes down the six thousand feet to the valley below. The progress of our leader also was not helped by fearsome spider-like insects which jumped down from the ledges on to his face as he climbed up. The return was made by a quicker route which involved descending on to the snow slopes on the Landsborough side and traversing along to the pass.\nGraham Riley, New Zealand Alpine Journal, 1934.", "latlng": [ "-43.9591", "169.6032" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aspiring/main-divide/square-top/upper-studholme-pass", "name": "From Upper Studholme Pass", "grade": "2", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": "0m", "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "2", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": null } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": "0", "natural_pro": false, "description": "From Upper Studholme Pass, traverse over Mt Napoleon.", "ascent": "M R Fitchett, Graham Riley, J D Willis, February 1934" } ], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/canterbury-westland-alps/cabot-ridge/mt-camsell": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/canterbury-westland-alps/cabot-ridge/mt-camsell", "name": "Mt Camsell", "altitude": "2120m", "access": null, "description": null, "latlng": [ "-42.983051", "171.282091" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/canterbury/cabot-ridge/mt-camsell/north-west-ridge", "name": "North West Ridge", "grade": null, "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "A short rock ridge, which is not difficult from Griffiths Saddle." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Roland Cant, Bill Cullens, March 1934" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/canterbury/cabot-ridge/mt-camsell/gifford-stream", "name": "From Gifford Stream", "grade": null, "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "From Gifford Stream gain snow slopes on the east of the peak. From here several options exist\r\nto the summit." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": null } ], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/nelson-lakes-kaik%C5%8Dura/acheron%E2%80%93waihopai-mountains/pinnacle": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/nelson-lakes-kaik%C5%8Dura/acheron%E2%80%93waihopai-mountains/pinnacle", "name": "Pinnacle", "altitude": "2120m", "access": null, "description": "If you are short of time or the weather is bad westwards, then no contest \u2013 Pinnacle is the best climb in this guide. You can usually take your 4WD vehicle right to the hut, and the rock is interesting and enjoyable.", "latlng": [ "-41.81329996", "173.2757043" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/nelson-lakes-kaik%C5%8Dura/acheron%E2%80%93waihopai-mountains/pinnacle/boulder-stream-routes", "name": "Boulder Stream Routes", "grade": "2", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": "2", "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "From Leatham Station follow a rough and narrow 4WD track on the true left of Boulder Stream to Boulder Forks Hut (6 bunks, standard). Just past the hut, go up McCallum Stream to just before a small gorge. From here, climb through forest onto the spur to the north and along to a saddle where the rocky summit pyramid begins. Alternatively, a more direct route is to climb steep loose scree out of McCallum Stream onto the open spur to the south. Where this merges into the north-west face, climb a gully (or good rock right of the gully) to just north of the summit." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": null }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/nelson-lakes-kaik%C5%8Dura/acheron%E2%80%93waihopai-mountains/pinnacle/south-west-ridge", "name": "South West Ridge", "grade": "3", "topo_ref": "A", "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": "3", "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "From Boulder Forks Hut, walk up the streambed and into Kroshen Stream. Bypass a waterfall on the true right. There is a good campsite on a tussock shelf at 1100m, with a great view of steep slabs on the south face of the summit pyramid (probably unclimbed, and could be a project for keen alpine rock jocks). Climb scree on the south-west face and up a short rocky gut to the ridge. Turn a rock step on the western side, via a narrow exposed ledge (difficult if snow covered) or else an awkward chimney." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": null }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/nelson-lakes-kaik%C5%8Dura/acheron%E2%80%93waihopai-mountains/pinnacle/south-ridge", "name": "South Ridge", "grade": "2", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": "2", "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "A variation to SW Ridge. From the campsite in Krushen Stream, climb scree on the south-west face to a small col on the south ridge. Follow an obvious rocky corner below the huge slabs, and then a short steepish scramble on good rock to the summit." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": null }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/nelson-lakes-kaik%C5%8Dura/acheron%E2%80%93waihopai-mountains/pinnacle/boulder-stream-routes-0", "name": "Boulder Stream Routes", "grade": "1", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": "1", "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "The easiest route, with little rockfall danger and little scrub bashing, onto the spur on the true left of McCallum Stream, is to climb an open tussock and scrub slope on the true right of the next major creek to the south (locally known as Waterfall Creek, for obvious reasons)." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": null }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/nelson-lakes-kaik%C5%8Dura/acheron%E2%80%93waihopai-mountains/pinnacle/south-face", "name": "South Face", "grade": "13", "topo_ref": null, "image": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/route/Pinnaclesouthface.JPG?itok=Rhy8_FYt", "images": [ { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/route/Pinnaclesouthface.JPG?itok=Rhy8_FYt", "height": "325", "width": "244" } ], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": "13", "description": null } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": "Pitch one - up flaring rightward tending crack the straighten up into v\nshaped gully. Pitch two - continue up gully on fairly broken rock. Protection\nminimal but easy climbing.", "ascent": "Kieran Parsons, Vaughan Snowdon and David Manning March 2011" } ], "places": [], "image": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/wide/public/image/pinnacle-face50.jpg?itok=oUC6hk3L", "images": [ { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/wide/public/image/pinnacle-face50.jpg?itok=oUC6hk3L", "height": "224", "width": "300" }, { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/image/Screen%20shot%202011-06-29%20at%205.53.15%20PM.jpg?itok=hm9oO_OC", "height": "231", "width": "325" } ] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/main-divide-of-the-southern-alps/mt-marion": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/main-divide-of-the-southern-alps/mt-marion", "name": "Mt Marion", "altitude": "2119m", "access": null, "description": null, "latlng": [ "-43.111698", "171.103821" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/main-divide-of-the-southern-alps/mt-marion/north-west-ridge", "name": "North West Ridge", "grade": null, "topo_ref": "NW", "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "Completed as part of a traverse along the Divide. The broken rocky ridge is time-consuming." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Roger Chester, December 1930" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/main-divide-of-the-southern-alps/mt-marion/west-face", "name": "West Face", "grade": "2", "topo_ref": "WF", "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "2", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "Follow the steep creek on the south side of Mt Carl until a gap in the spur on the right allows\r\naccess to rock ribs and the glacier draining the ridge between Mt Marion and Pt 1883 metres.\r\nContinue up here alongside a rock wall until slabs below a prominent ar\u00eate allow access to the\r\nglacier and West Face of Mt Marion. Climb the glacier towards the rocky summit. The final\r\nfew metres involve some awkward rock climbing and lead to the ridge just south of the flat top." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": null }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/main-divide-of-the-southern-alps/mt-marion/south-east-ridge", "name": "South East Ridge", "grade": null, "topo_ref": "SE", "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "Completed as part of a traverse along the Divide. The broken rocky ridge is time-consuming." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Roger Chester, December 1930" } ], "places": [], "image": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/wide/public/image/Marion.png?itok=XbSmphkr", "images": [ { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/wide/public/image/Marion.png?itok=XbSmphkr", "height": "594", "width": "900" } ] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/main-divide-of-the-southern-alps/mt-marion-0": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/main-divide-of-the-southern-alps/mt-marion-0", "name": "Mt Marianne", "altitude": "2119m", "access": null, "description": "na", "latlng": [ "-42.94568", "171.381826" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/main-divide-of-the-southern-alps/mt-marion-0/north-west-ridge", "name": "North West Ridge", "grade": "2-", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "2-", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "A rocky climb on a steep, loose ridge from Mt Pope." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": null }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/main-divide-southern-alps/mt-marion-0/frew-hut-mathias-pass-frew-saddle", "name": "Frew Hut to Mathias Pass via Frew Saddle", "grade": "I", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": "0m", "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": "I", "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": null } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": "0", "natural_pro": false, "description": "From Frew Hut in the Whitcombe valley a track leads up into Frew Creek as marked. In the upper basin, travel is in the stream bed, climbing out on the true left at 1100 metres where the stream steepens into waterfalls. Frew Bivouac (DOC, two bunks) is just west of Frew Saddle.\nTo reach Mathias Pass, descend from the north end of Frew Saddle to the upper Hokitika River and follow it up. Travel is easy, campsites exist and Mathias Pass is not difficult. Water is available near the pass.", "ascent": null }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/main-divide-of-the-southern-alps/mt-marion-0/south-west-ridge", "name": "South West Ridge", "grade": "2-", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "2-", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "From the upper Wilberforce River climb scree, steep rock and tussock to a group of tarns at the\r\nfoot of the South West Ridge, and follow this to the summit." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": null }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/main-divide-of-the-southern-alps/mt-marion-0/north-east-ridge", "name": "North East Ridge", "grade": "1+", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "1+", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "Climb the broken ridge from Mt Rosamond." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "George McElroy, Neville Barker, R Caldwell, March 1934" } ], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aspiring/humboldt-mountains/bold-pk": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aspiring/humboldt-mountains/bold-pk", "name": "Bold Pk", "altitude": "2118m", "access": null, "description": null, "latlng": [ "-44.847806", "168.302565" ], "routes": [], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki-tai-poutini/godley-river/panorama-pk": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki-tai-poutini/godley-river/panorama-pk", "name": "Panorama Pk", "altitude": "2117m", "access": null, "description": "On the ridge southeast of Mt Moffat.", "latlng": [ "-43.475066", "170.480329" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki-tai-poutini/godley-river/panorama-pk/unnamed", "name": "Unnamed", "grade": null, "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "Traverse from Bruce Murray or climb the South East Ar\u00eate. The north-east approach is described in the Grey Valley section." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "T A Fletcher, J Butcher, Feb 1923 (via the South East Ar\u00eate)" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki-tai-poutini/godley-river/panorama-pk/north-east", "name": "From the North East", "grade": null, "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "From the North East scramble up scree from the lower Grey Glacier. At bluffs near the head of the ridge, traverse out on to rock faces to the north, then continue to the summit by snow slopes on the western side." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Edgar Williams, Will Kennedy, T A Fletcher, Dec 1917" } ], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/2117": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/2117", "name": "Pt 2117", "altitude": "2117m", "access": null, "description": null, "latlng": [ "-44.76206191", "168.23446879" ], "routes": [], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/arthurs-pass/black-range/mt-speight": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/arthurs-pass/black-range/mt-speight", "name": "Mt Speight", "altitude": "2116m", "access": "From the Waimakariri River access via Harper Creek. Follow Harper creek until reaching and impassable waterfall. Turn left up steep snow (or scree) gulley, be mindful of avalanche and rockfall. Trending left towards the top of the gulley. Upon reaching the ridge, drop onto the southern side and sidle towards Mt Speight. Allow 6-8 hours from Klondyke Corner.", "description": "Mt Speight was first climbed by Roger Chester, R E McInnes and H C Wickett in April 1930. Mt Speight Buttress has some of the best quality rock in the Arthurs Pass National Park.", "latlng": [ "-43.002873", "171.417004" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/arthurs-pass/black-range/mt-speight/camp-mum-couloir", "name": "Camp Mum Couloir", "grade": "4", "topo_ref": null, "image": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/route/Camp%20Mum%20Couloir_0.JPG?itok=3f0A852U", "images": [ { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/route/Camp%20Mum%20Couloir_0.JPG?itok=3f0A852U", "height": "325", "width": "244" }, { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/route/_Camp%20Mum_%20MC4%20M4.jpg?itok=IPdXQy8n", "height": "244", "width": "325" } ], "length": "150m", "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "4", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": "150m", "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": null } ], "quality": 2, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": "A 150m long couloir that leads up to the North East Ridge. The first (crux)\npitch had some mixed (M4) moves, with good rock protection in solid orange\ngreywacke. Two more ice pitches in the narrow couloir lead up to the North\nEast Ridge. Follow the ridge to the summit.", "ascent": "Sarwan Chand and Jack Grinsted 24 August 2014" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/arthurs-pass/black-range/mt-speight/north-east-ridge", "name": "North East Ridge", "grade": "12,4,IV", "topo_ref": null, "image": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/route/image10.jpg?itok=Ph_x5Ldm", "images": [ { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/route/image10.jpg?itok=Ph_x5Ldm", "height": "244", "width": "325" }, { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/routes/Screen%20Shot%202022-03-10%20at%204.51.28%20PM.png?itok=f1QZgPaM", "height": "202", "width": "325" } ], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": "4", "commitment": "IV", "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": true, "ewbank": "12", "description": null } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": true, "description": "This route has had several ascents over the past decade; though its first\nascentionists have not been recorded. Climb to the head of Harper Creek and\nhead towards the basin below the northeast side of the peak. Ascend a rock\nslab on far left, which leads to the main North East Ridge. From here the\nridge steepens to a short 10\u201315m pitch (crux). Above is a nice red arete,\nwhich is followed until broader, easier ground, to loose rock for the final\n50\u201380m to the summit. Descend the North Ridge.", "ascent": "J Dempster & A Gillespie" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/arthurs-pass/black-range/mt-speight/normal-route", "name": "Normal Route", "grade": "1", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": "1", "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": null } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": "Usually climbed from the old Greenlaw Hut site, by ascending the spur between\nGreenlaw and Harper Creeks to the snowfield below the peak. The col at the\nhead of the snowfield, north of the peak, gives good access to the North\nRidge.", "ascent": "R E Chester, R E McInnes, H C Wickett, 23 April 1930" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/arthurs-pass/black-range/mt-speight/north-ridge-harper-creek", "name": "North Ridge from Harper Creek", "grade": "2+,II", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": "2+", "commitment": "II", "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": null } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": "Gain the large snowfield east of the saddle between Mt Speight and Mt Harper,\nby climbing out of Harper Creek and then up and across the spur bordering\nGreenlaw Creek. Climb the ridge from the saddle.", "ascent": null }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/arthurs-pass/black-range/mt-speight/headwaters-burnett-stream", "name": "From Headwaters of Burnett Stream", "grade": "1", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": "1", "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "From the head-waters of Burnet Stream. Ascend the scree/snow-slope north of the creek that drains Speight\u2019s West Face. A steep pitch joins the permanent snow-slope (beware of bergschrunds) that leads to the prominent col north of Mt Speight. Follow the ridge to the summit." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": null }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/arthurs-pass/black-range/mt-speight/north-ridge-burnett-stream", "name": "North Ridge from Burnett Stream", "grade": null, "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "From the head of Burnett Stream climb scree and rock to a small glacier that leads to the North Ridge of Mt Speight. Scramble along loose rock to the summit." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": null }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/arthurs-pass/black-range/mt-speight/south-east-face", "name": "South-East Face", "grade": "3+,WI2", "topo_ref": "CD", "image": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/route/Mt%20Speight%20SE%20Face.png?itok=6_mc1617", "images": [ { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/route/Mt%20Speight%20SE%20Face.png?itok=6_mc1617", "height": "185", "width": "325" }, { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/route/P1060973.JPG?itok=60DNGQID", "height": "244", "width": "325" } ], "length": "350m", "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "3+", "aid": null, "ice": "WI2", "mixed": null, "length": "350m", "bolts": null, "trad": true, "ewbank": null, "description": null } ], "quality": 1, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": true, "description": "The lookers left gully of the two central gullies. Tops out directly to the\nsummit. Four pitches (WI2-3) and ~150 meters of moderate snow. Minimal rock\nprotection on lower pitches, with some pro found on the left shoulder of the\nupper snow slopes.", "ascent": "Tom Botterill, Michael Eatson. September 2015" } ], "places": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/arthurs-pass/black-range/mt-speight/speight-buttress", "name": "Speight Buttress", "altitude": null, "access": null, "description": "Mt Speight is not often (if ever) visited by persons purely interested in climbing on rock. It hardly attracts day visitors, being a 6-hour tramp in from Klondyke Corner. But the 250m high Speight Buttress is blessed with some of the best quality rock in the national park (this all being relative, of course!).\nThree prominent rock buttresses protrude into the Speight snowfield. Many more routes could be contrived on the day. The gullies between them are climbable in winter. Descent is by the North Ridge to the col at the head of the snowfield.", "latlng": null, "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/arthurs-pass/black-range/mt-speight/speight-buttress/north-icefield-couloir", "name": "North Icefield Couloir", "grade": "4,II", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": "4", "commitment": "II", "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": null } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": "May be climbed in an icy winter via the narrow, tall (190m) and steep\n(45\u00ba\u201380\u00ba) couloir leading directly to the summit rocks from the head of\nthe northern snow/icefield. The crux is met approximately 70m below the\nsummit, where the ice/snow clings to an almost vertical rock-band and a\ncornice may exist across its head. Descend via the North Ridge.", "ascent": null }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/arthurs-pass/black-range/mt-speight/speight-buttress/left-hand-buttress", "name": "Left-hand Buttress", "grade": "18,5+,IV,4+", "topo_ref": null, "image": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/2024-05/image231.jpg?itok=iFE1tmar", "images": [ { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/2024-05/image231.jpg?itok=iFE1tmar", "height": "247", "width": "325" } ], "length": "110m", "pitches": [ { "alpine": "5+", "commitment": "IV", "mtcook": "4+", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": "25m", "bolts": null, "trad": true, "ewbank": "18", "description": "Start a little to the right of the toe of the buttress, trending right as you ascend, while choosing the easiest-looking crack system. The rock on this pitch is excellent but flaring cracks mean it is marginally protectable; it may take some smaller cams & nuts. Steeper lines might offer better protection. Belay from the ledge at the top of the pitch - cams are useful as options for protection exist but are limited." }, { "alpine": "4+", "commitment": "IV", "mtcook": "4-", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": "50m", "bolts": null, "trad": true, "ewbank": "15", "description": "The rock on this pitch is chossy. Angle up and back left above the ledge, following the obvious weakness in the face, then up. This pitch does not have many solid options for protection. Good belay options available at the top." }, { "alpine": "4+", "commitment": "IV", "mtcook": "4-", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": "35m", "bolts": null, "trad": true, "ewbank": "16", "description": "The rock on this pitch is good. Go straight up, bridging to avoid strenuous moves. This pitch is easily protectable with link cams, cams and nuts. An easy exit to the left avoids a small roof above and steep slab to the right.\r\n\r\nAbove this point it is an easy scramble to the ridge. At the top of the scramble, climb directly to the ridge, rather than taking a collapsing, loose gut on your left (which leads directly to the summit)." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": "0", "natural_pro": true, "description": "Pitch 1 (25m, Grade 18) - Start a little to the right of the toe of the buttress, trending right as you ascend, while choosing the easiest-looking crack system. The rock on this pitch is excellent but flaring cracks mean it is marginally protectable; it may take some smaller cams & nuts. Steeper lines might offer better protection. Belay from the ledge at the top of the pitch - cams are useful as options for protection exist but are limited.\nPitch 2 (50m, Grade 15) - The rock on this pitch is chossy. Angle up and back left above the ledge, following the obvious weakness in the face, then up. This pitch does not have many solid options for protection. Good belay options available at the top.\nPitch 3 (35m, Grade 16) - The rock on this pitch is good. Go straight up, bridging to avoid strenuous moves. This pitch is easily protectable with link cams, cams and nuts. An easy exit to the left avoids a small roof above and steep slab to the right.\nAbove this point it is an easy scramble to the ridge. At the top of the scramble, climb directly to the ridge, rather than taking a collapsing, loose gut on your left (which leads directly to the summit).", "ascent": "Lorraine Johns & Jovan Andric January 30 2016" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/arthurs-pass/black-range/mt-speight/speight-buttress/north-ridge-snow-chute", "name": "North Ridge Snow Chute", "grade": "2,II", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": "2", "commitment": "II", "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": null } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": "May be ascended in winter via the broad snow and ice chute that joins the\nNorth Ridge about 150m north of the summit. An avalanche risk could exist on\nthis route. The base of this chute is gained from the head of the northern\nsnow/icefield just to the true left of the Speight Buttress routes. Descend\nvia the North Ridge.", "ascent": null }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/arthurs-pass/black-range/mt-speight/speight-buttress/central-buttress", "name": "Central Buttress", "grade": "II", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": "II", "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": null } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": "Commences along a line of weakness traveling left to right, then proceeds to\nclimb stepped rock to join the North Ridge.", "ascent": null }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/arthurs-pass/black-range/mt-speight/speight-buttress/right-hand-buttress", "name": "Right-hand Buttress", "grade": "18,5+,IV,4+", "topo_ref": null, "image": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/2024-05/image232.jpg?itok=7eELH6Hg", "images": [ { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/2024-05/image232.jpg?itok=7eELH6Hg", "height": "222", "width": "325" } ], "length": "120m", "pitches": [ { "alpine": "5+", "commitment": "IV", "mtcook": "4+", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": "20m", "bolts": null, "trad": true, "ewbank": "18", "description": "Start centre-right of the right-hand buttress toe. The first 20m is sparse on protection (micro wires and small nuts very handy), good quality rock." }, { "alpine": "5", "commitment": "IV", "mtcook": "4", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": "40m", "bolts": null, "trad": true, "ewbank": "16", "description": "This pitch has good protection available (cams, nuts, wires)." }, { "alpine": "4", "commitment": "IV", "mtcook": "3", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": "40m", "bolts": null, "trad": true, "ewbank": "14", "description": "Good protection." }, { "alpine": "4", "commitment": "IV", "mtcook": "3", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": "20m", "bolts": null, "trad": true, "ewbank": "14", "description": "Good protection. Scramble to north ridge." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": "0", "natural_pro": true, "description": "Pitch 1 (20m, Grade 18) - Start centre-right of the right-hand buttress toe. The first 20m is sparse on protection (micro wires and small nuts very handy), good quality rock.\nPitch 2 (40m, Grade 16) - This pitch has good protection available (cams, nuts, wires).\nPitch 3 (40m, Grade 14) - Good protection.\nPitch 4 (20m, Grade 14) - Good protection. Scramble to north ridge.\nThere are multiple options on buttress for other good climbs.", "ascent": null } ], "places": [], "image": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/wide/public/image/mtspeight_routes.jpg?itok=Ph4aM8oP", "images": [ { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/wide/public/image/mtspeight_routes.jpg?itok=Ph4aM8oP", "height": "600", "width": "800" } ] } ], "image": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/wide/public/image/AP027_0.jpg?itok=8D6c7BRy", "images": [ { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/wide/public/image/AP027_0.jpg?itok=8D6c7BRy", "height": "474", "width": "709" }, { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/image/MTSPEIGHTSEFACE.png?itok=AUCcitlh", "height": "185", "width": "325" } ] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/nelson-lakes/mahanga-range/pt-2116": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/nelson-lakes/mahanga-range/pt-2116", "name": "Pt 2116", "altitude": "2116m", "access": null, "description": "Mahanga Range", "latlng": [ "-42.04169619", "172.63890511" ], "routes": [], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/2114": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/2114", "name": "Pt 2114", "altitude": "2114m", "access": null, "description": "Black Hill Range", "latlng": [ "-43.42191302", "171.39560547" ], "routes": [], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/nelson-lakes-kaik%C5%8Dura/turk-ridge/mt-iris": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/nelson-lakes-kaik%C5%8Dura/turk-ridge/mt-iris", "name": "Mt Iris", "altitude": "2114m", "access": null, "description": null, "latlng": [ "-42.09614161", "172.80782902" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/nelson-lakes-kaik%C5%8Dura/turk-ridge/mt-iris/north-east-ridge", "name": "North East Ridge", "grade": "3", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": "3", "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "Via Rianbow River. Follow an old cut track on the true left of Tanekaha Creek into clearings, and then up the broad ridge. Steep gullies and interesting rock scrambling leads to a difficult notch on the ridge. Abseil 6m into the notch or gain it via the southern slopes and a steep gut. Continue beyond the notch to the summit. The peak can also be climbed via gullies on the north face." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": null } ], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/nelson-lakes-kaikc58dura/turk-ridge/mt-weld": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/nelson-lakes-kaikc58dura/turk-ridge/mt-weld", "name": "Mt Weld", "altitude": "2114m", "access": null, "description": "Named for Frederick Weld, who in March 1855, with Alphonse Clifford, climbed onto a high point on Turk Ridge and spotted Tarndale, which led to the upper Clarence and opened up the important droving route to Canterbury.", "latlng": [ "-42.0980163", "172.85497071" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/nelson-lakes-kaik%C5%8Dura/turk-ridge/mt-weld/south-east-ridge", "name": "South East Ridge", "grade": "2", "topo_ref": "A", "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": "2", "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "From the Hydro Rd. Follow a 4WD track to power pylons on the end of the spur. Pleasant ridge scrambling leads to a difficult notch at about 1950m. Turn it by descending steep slopes on the east, crossing a gully and climbing up the final easy slopes to the summit. There are easy descent routes via scree and tussock into streams on either side of the ridge." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": null } ], "places": [], "image": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/wide/public/image/mtweld3.jpg?itok=_KSGxlqb", "images": [ { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/wide/public/image/mtweld3.jpg?itok=_KSGxlqb", "height": "463", "width": "777" } ] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/nelson-lakes/st-arnaud-range/belvedere-pk": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/nelson-lakes/st-arnaud-range/belvedere-pk", "name": "Belvedere Pk", "altitude": "2114m", "access": null, "description": "St Arnaud Range", "latlng": [ "-42.1054", "172.7209" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/nelson-lakes/st-arnaud-range/belvedere-pk/paske-creek-route", "name": "Paske Creek Route", "grade": "1", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": "1", "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "Belvedere is an interesting peak, being located at the top of the Buller, Clarence and Wairau catchments. (A \u2018belvedere\u2019 is a raised turret or lookout for viewing). From Paske Hut follow Paske Saddle route to Paske Saddle and then the easy ridge to Belvedere. A good day trip from Paske Hut is to climb Mt Paske, then traverse Belvedere before descending a couloir and directly down, or else continue to Paske Saddle, and returning to the hut." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": null }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/nelson-lakes/st-arnaud-range/belvedere-pk/clarence-pass", "name": "From Clarence Pass", "grade": "1", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": "1", "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "From the Clarence pass, good ridges lead east to Belvedere Peak and west to Pk 2085m. A steep scree gut on the west side of Pk 2085m descends to the head of the east branch of the Waiau. On the south side, bluffs above the head of the Clarence must be avoided." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": null } ], "places": [], "image": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/wide/public/image/1-P3210023.JPG?itok=lTgP89AD", "images": [ { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/wide/public/image/1-P3210023.JPG?itok=lTgP89AD", "height": "600", "width": "900" } ] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/%C5%8Dhau-landsborough/main-divide/mt-wilson": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/%C5%8Dhau-landsborough/main-divide/mt-wilson", "name": "Mt Wilson", "altitude": "2113m", "access": null, "description": null, "latlng": [ "-43.9569", "169.6687" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/%C5%8Dhau-landsborough/main-divide/mt-wilson/east-hunter", "name": "From the East Hunter", "grade": "2", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "2", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": null } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": "From the lower slopes gain the Hunter Glacier and scramble up a broken rock\nridge to the summit. Glacial recession means the lower edge of the hanging\nHunter, and Smyth Glaciers can be quite active.", "ascent": "Peter Barker, John Chivers, Bob Cunninghame, December 1959" } ], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/canterbury-westland-alps/main-divide/rankin-pk": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/canterbury-westland-alps/main-divide/rankin-pk", "name": "Rankin Pk", "altitude": "2113m", "access": null, "description": null, "latlng": [ "-43.376918", "170.65793" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/canterbury-westland-alps/main-divide/rankin-pk/main-divide-ridges", "name": "Main Divide Ridges", "grade": null, "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "Traversed during a climb of Edison." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Cuthbert Denham, Ernie Rich, Tom Beckett, March 1937" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/canterbury-westland-alps/main-divide/rankin-pk/north-east-ridge", "name": "North East Ridge", "grade": "1+", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "1+", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "From the Havelock Valley, climb the North East Ridge on the true right of Edison Stream over\r\nseveral big but easy rock steps to the summit." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Tony Gates, Connan Bolitho, Andrew Cooper, and Murray Gibbons (descended), December 1988" } ], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/arthurs-pass/jellicoe-ridge/mt-lancelot": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/arthurs-pass/jellicoe-ridge/mt-lancelot", "name": "Mt Lancelot", "altitude": "2112m", "access": null, "description": "Waimakariri", "latlng": null, "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/arthurs-pass/jellicoe-ridge/mt-lancelot/south-east-ridge", "name": "South East Ridge", "grade": "1", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": "1", "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "Reached by climbing to the Jellicoe Ridge opposite Waimakariri Falls Hut. Take the most direct route possible, slowly sidling southwards to gain the South East Ridge and then the summit. Avoid contact with it\u2019s North Ridge (i.e. avoid the two snow slopes running west off the Mt Rolleston\u2019s South West Ridge)." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": null }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/arthurs-pass/jellicoe-ridge/mt-lancelot/north-ridge-waimakariri-falls", "name": "North Ridge from Waimakariri Falls", "grade": "2", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": "2", "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "Mt Lancelot can be attempted by the North Ridge (Jellicoe Ridge) which links it to Mt Rolleston. The ridge is easily gained directly above Waimakariri Falls Hut, however it will be found to be a climb to remember \u2013 it is a difficult climb with no protection on some slabs and around the gendarmes." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": null }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/arthurs-pass/jellicoe-ridge/mt-lancelot/north-ridge-crow-valley", "name": "North Ridge from Crow Valley", "grade": "2", "topo_ref": "1", "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": "2", "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "Follow the Crow glacial approach (route 5.1) towards Mt Rolleston as far as the terminal face of the glacier, then turn west and climb to the North Ridge and on to the peak. This ridge has some extremely steep unprotected climbing, and should only be tackled in summer conditions." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": null } ], "places": [], "image": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/wide/public/image/mt%2520lancelot-from%2520southeast-routemark.jpg?itok=-TaN0DRd", "images": [ { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/wide/public/image/mt%2520lancelot-from%2520southeast-routemark.jpg?itok=-TaN0DRd", "height": "675", "width": "900" }, { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/image/crow%2520glacier%2520icefall-routemark_1.jpg?itok=p4BDoNO_", "height": "244", "width": "325" } ] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/main-divide-of-the-southern-alps/mt-mcwhirter": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/main-divide-of-the-southern-alps/mt-mcwhirter", "name": "Mt McWhirter", "altitude": "2111m", "access": null, "description": null, "latlng": [ "-43.139763", "171.041679" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/main-divide-of-the-southern-alps/mt-mcwhirter/west", "name": "From the West", "grade": "1-", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "An easy walk on gravel, either up the north-west ridge or from the south-west." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": null } ], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/arthurs-pass/barron-ridge/mt-armstrong": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/arthurs-pass/barron-ridge/mt-armstrong", "name": "Mt Armstrong", "altitude": "2110m", "access": null, "description": null, "latlng": [ "-42.8918441", "171.49297714" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/arthurs-pass/barron-ridge/mt-armstrong/from-waimakariri-col", "name": "From Waimakariri Col", "grade": "1", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": "1", "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "A short snow climb from Waimakariri Col. A traverse to, and descent off, Carrington Peak can also be achieved. The icecap of Mt Armstrong can be quite unstable at times, as can the glacier descending on to Waimakariri Col." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "H R Reid, A Anderson, January 1928" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/arthurs-pass/barron-ridge/mt-armstrong/from-otira-valley", "name": "From Otira Valley", "grade": "1", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": "1", "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "A long climb that can be done by fit parties in a day from Otira. Follow the Rolleston River Route to where it leaves the scrub and crosses the river. Climb west to the spur separating the Rolleston River from the stream draining Lake Florence, and continue up to the summit. The icecap of Mt Armstrong can be quite unstable at times." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": null }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/arthurs-pass/barron-ridge/mt-armstrong/south-east-spur", "name": "South East Spur", "grade": "2+,II", "topo_ref": null, "image": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/routes/IMG_E3327.JPG?itok=iyc6ei7I", "images": [ { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/routes/IMG_E3327.JPG?itok=iyc6ei7I", "height": "244", "width": "325" } ], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": "2+", "commitment": "II", "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": null } ], "quality": 3, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": "At the head of the Rolleston River make your way up through the rock buttress on the true-left of the river to gain access to the Southeast Spur, from here follow a line of good rock that takes you up to the 2010m point of the east ridge. The East Ridge can be followed all the way to the summit of Mt Armstrong. Starting as a broad ridge at 2010m, the east ridge progressively narrows until it involves climbing around some loose pinnacles of rock with a decent amount of exposure on both sides, before broadening out again just before the summit.", "ascent": "Dave Hegan, 10/01/2020" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/arthurs-pass/barron-ridge/mt-armstrong/east-face", "name": "East Face", "grade": "2+,II", "topo_ref": null, "image": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/routes/IMG_E3499.JPG?itok=H-RYMw15", "images": [ { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/routes/IMG_E3499.JPG?itok=H-RYMw15", "height": "244", "width": "325" } ], "length": "400m", "pitches": [ { "alpine": "2+", "commitment": "II", "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": "400m", "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": null } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": "From the head of the Rolleston River sidle north across the scree slopes on the true-left of the river to access the east face of Mt Armstrong. Towards the northeast corner of the face a large rock toe protrudes onto the scree and can be used as a starting point to climb up the face towards point 2010m directly above. The climb takes place on a mixture of good, solid rock and loose scree/rotten rock. Halfway up the face is a short but steep rock step that must be climbed. Once point 2010m is reached, follow the East Ridge all the way to the summit.", "ascent": "Dave Hegan, 7 December, 2022" } ], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/otago/bealey-range/hassing-pk": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/otago/bealey-range/hassing-pk", "name": "Hassing Pk", "altitude": "2110m", "access": null, "description": "TBA", "latlng": [ "-43.9866", "169.577" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/otago/bealey-range/hassing-pk/hunter-valley", "name": "From the Hunter Valley", "grade": "2-", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "2-", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": null } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": "TBA", "ascent": "Peter Child and Stuart Ombler, January 1952" } ], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/2108": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/2108", "name": "Pt 2108", "altitude": "2108m", "access": null, "description": null, "latlng": [ "-44.55953797", "168.72363971" ], "routes": [], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/main-divide-of-the-southern-alps/mt-roberts": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/main-divide-of-the-southern-alps/mt-roberts", "name": "Mt Roberts", "altitude": "2107m", "access": null, "description": "na", "latlng": [ "-43.23945", "170.891304" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/main-divide-of-the-southern-alps/mt-roberts/strachan-pass", "name": "From Strachan Pass", "grade": "1", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "1", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "Head directly north from Strachan Pass up snow slopes then scree, and scramble up small bluffs\r\nto the Main Divide. The rocky peak itself is an easy scramble." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "George Roberts, 1881" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/main-divide-of-the-southern-alps/mt-roberts/vane-stream", "name": "From Vane Stream", "grade": "1", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "1", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "Use the true left above the Essex flat in Vane Stream. Go a little way up the Wilberg tributary\r\nbefore climbing the spur between the Wilberg and the stream draining Pt 1811 metres, to the\r\n1420-metre contour, then sidle into the Hazard Valley. The rocky peak itself is an easy scramble." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": null } ], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/canterbury-westland-alps/main-divide/shafto-pk": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/canterbury-westland-alps/main-divide/shafto-pk", "name": "Shafto Pk", "altitude": "2107m", "access": null, "description": null, "latlng": [ "-43.074217", "171.175318" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/canterbury-westland-alps/main-divide/shafto-pk/main-divide-ridges", "name": "Main Divide Ridges", "grade": null, "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "Once the Main Divide has been reached, travel involves steep, sometimes tricky rock." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Roger Chester, Alan Willis, John Pascoe, December 1930" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/canterbury-westland-alps/main-divide/shafto-pk/south-ridge", "name": "South Ridge", "grade": null, "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "From the head of the North Mathias River climb loose rock. A steep tower near the head of the\r\nridge is passed on the glacier to the left and from here the Main Divide is reached west of the\r\nsummit. Follow rock to the top." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Bruce Stinear, G C Burns, Rod Hewitt, February 1933" } ], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/nelson-lakes/st-arnaud-range/cotterell-pk": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/nelson-lakes/st-arnaud-range/cotterell-pk", "name": "Cotterell Pk", "altitude": "2106m", "access": null, "description": "St Arnaud Range", "latlng": [ "-41.9934", "172.7938" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/nelson-lakes/st-arnaud-range/cotterell-pk/east-face", "name": "East Face", "grade": "1", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": "1", "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "Via Hamilton River. Climb easy tussock and scree slopes to the summit." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": null }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/nelson-lakes/st-arnaud-range/cotterell-pk/south-east-ridge", "name": "South East Ridge", "grade": "2", "topo_ref": "B", "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": "2", "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "From Hamilton River. \r\nA striking ridge gained from the saddle at 1675m to the Begley. Steep towers can be turned via western slopes." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": null }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/nelson-lakes/st-arnaud-range/cotterell-pk/south-face", "name": "South Face", "grade": "2", "topo_ref": "A", "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": "2", "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "Via Begley Creek. A narrow steep gully (visible from the flat just downstream of Begley Hut) angles up right from the bottom of the face to the South East ridge. Take the left exit option, and follow the ridge (or a slope on the north side) to a knob south-southeast of the summit, then cross a basin to the summit ridge. A more technical variation is to climb part way up the gully, and then sidle left across a steep snow-covered slab and up a snow slope to a blocky rib. The easiest descent (or ascent) route is via a large basin and gully south-west of the peak." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": null }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/nelson-lakes/st-arnaud-range/cotterell-pk/north-west-face-route", "name": "North West Face Route", "grade": "1", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": "1", "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "Cross the river just below John Tait Hut (Travers Valley), and follow downriver a short distance to a bush spur leading above the bushline to scree basins. Steep gullies lead to the ridge north of the summit." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": null }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/nelson-lakes/st-arnaud-range/cotterell-pk/south-west-ridge", "name": "South West Ridge", "grade": "2", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": "2", "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "The scree basin of North West Face Route (Travers Valley), leads to a col; the final 60m of rock ridge is interesting." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": null } ], "places": [], "image": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/wide/public/image/Screen%20shot%202011-06-29%20at%205.55.18%20PM.jpg?itok=JOjYc9LE", "images": [ { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/wide/public/image/Screen%20shot%202011-06-29%20at%205.55.18%20PM.jpg?itok=JOjYc9LE", "height": "473", "width": "900" } ] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/grey-top": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/grey-top", "name": "Grey Top", "altitude": "2106m", "access": null, "description": "Grey Range", "latlng": [ "-43.12615382", "171.56438529" ], "routes": [], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/westland/bloomfield-range/mt-bloomfield": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/westland/bloomfield-range/mt-bloomfield", "name": "Mt Bloomfield", "altitude": "2106m", "access": null, "description": "na", "latlng": [ "-43.150847", "170.870962" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/westland/bloomfield-range/mt-bloomfield/north-east-ridge", "name": "North East Ridge", "grade": "1", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "1", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "From the Stag\u2013Reid Creek forks follow the true left of Reid Creek through spaniards and long\r\ntussock to pick up the spur at J34 383830 / BW18 283 214. Follow this to the range crest. Tussock\r\ngives way to a narrow and decaying rock ar\u00eate, although there are some more stable sidling\r\noptions on tussock. At 1460 metres, scramble up a short section of steep loose rock." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Phil Willis, Austen A Deans, 13 March 1948" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/westland/bloomfield-range/mt-bloomfield/northern-route", "name": "Northern Route", "grade": "1-", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "Follow the open gully opposite Drain Off Creek up from the Waitaha River, and cut out onto\r\nthe ridge on the true right of this open gully at about 1500\u20131600 metres. Join the North East\r\nRidge higher up." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": null }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/westland/bloomfield-range/mt-bloomfield/county-hut", "name": "From County Hut", "grade": null, "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "Follow Bloomfield Creek to the forks at J34 357809 / BW18 257 193. Climb the spur between the\r\nforks to about Pt 1892 metres." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": null } ], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/darrans/darran-mountains/mt-talbot": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/darrans/darran-mountains/mt-talbot", "name": "Mt Talbot", "altitude": "2105m", "access": null, "description": null, "latlng": [ "-44.75111334", "167.99751675" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/darrans/darran-mountains/mt-talbot/macpherson-cirque", "name": "Macpherson Cirque", "grade": null, "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": true, "ewbank": null, "description": "Climb the waterfall wall on the left, traverse right and up a rock rib to the snowfields." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": true, "description": null, "ascent": "Ralph Miller, Lloyd Warburton, Dick Wood, 1957." }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/darrans/darran-mountains/mt-talbot/east-ridge", "name": "East Ridge", "grade": "17", "topo_ref": "8", "image": null, "images": [], "length": "300m", "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": "300m", "bolts": null, "trad": true, "ewbank": "17", "description": "Starting from the snowfield above Black Lake. The lower pitches involve sustained grade 17 climbing. The notch along the ridge may require a rappel. A 300m climb on good rock. \r\nCross schrund to belay on the slab.\r\nWork your way up the slabs to belay on the ledge at the top of the right- facing corner." }, { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": true, "ewbank": "17", "description": "Avoid the vegetated right-facing corner by going left and over bulge. Climb run-out face to groove that cuts across the face." }, { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": true, "ewbank": "12", "description": "Nice climbing in an easy groove to belay on a broad ledge." }, { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": true, "ewbank": "17", "description": "Hand traverse across horizontal crack in wall above ledge, then up face to easier ground on ridge proper.\r\nSome nice easy pitches lead to an 8m notch ( mostly rapped), move left around onto RH side of summit pyramid to where the East Ridge joins the the Couloir Route, which can be easily down climbed on slabs and the snow, or continue up edge of summit pyramid and over to the summit of Talbot.\r\n\r\nThere is a RH variant at the start that takes the RH facing corner crack just down from the snow arete." } ], "quality": 3, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": true, "description": null, "ascent": "Bill Blee, Ralph Miller, Mar 1957." }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/darrans/darran-mountains/mt-talbot/couloir-route", "name": "Couloir Route", "grade": null, "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": true, "ewbank": null, "description": "The gully on the north side of the East Ridge offers an easy ascent and descent early in the summer, but the snow slope soon breaks up to expose steep slabby rock above the schrund. The rock on the East Ridge offers an alternative if the snow is broken. \r\nThe original party descended the Traverse Pass route." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": true, "description": null, "ascent": "George Moir, Ken Roberts, Harry Slater, Bob Sinclair, 1924" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/darrans/darran-mountains/mt-talbot/traverse-pass", "name": "Traverse Pass", "grade": null, "topo_ref": "16", "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "From Gertrude Saddle follow slabs and snowfields to the pass. An easy route to the summits of Talbot and Macpherson. \r\nGully left of Traverse Pass\r\nThis is a loose rock couloir to the ridge beyond the steps above Traverse Pass." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": null } ], "places": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/darrans/darran-mountains/mt-talbot/summit-pyramid", "name": "Summit Pyramid", "altitude": null, "access": "Walk up the Gertrude Valley to Black Lake, cross the outlet of the lake (usually no more than a large jump) then continue up to the toe of the East Ridge. Traverse across the snowfield until below the face. In late summer the snowfield becomes broken by numerous large crevasses making access to the Summit Pyramid difficult. Crampons may be required.\nIn Winter\nTo access the Summit Pyramid either climb the Notch Route out of the valley or walk up the Gertrude Valley, traversing across exposed snow slopes below the east ridge to the base of the wall.", "description": "This is the high triangular face above Talbot\u2019s south-eastern snow-field, visible above Homer Hut.", "latlng": null, "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/darrans/darran-mountains/mt-talbot/summit-pyramid/jh-line", "name": "JH Line", "grade": null, "topo_ref": "1", "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": true, "ewbank": null, "description": "The rock deteriorates towards the top. Finish on the South Ridge, just a short scramble to the summit." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": true, "description": null, "ascent": "Murray Jones, George Harris, Jan 1968." }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/darrans/darran-mountains/mt-talbot/summit-pyramid/pharaoh", "name": "Pharaoh", "grade": "17", "topo_ref": "2", "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": true, "ewbank": "17", "description": "Climb the first three pitches of Sphinx then left along a ledge. Climb a hand crack directly off the ledge (crux) to a left facing corner. Then at the base of a large gully move left into an offwidth." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": true, "description": null, "ascent": "Marty Beare, Lindsay Main, 1980." }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/darrans/darran-mountains/mt-talbot/summit-pyramid/sphinx", "name": "Sphinx", "grade": "19", "topo_ref": "3", "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": true, "ewbank": "19", "description": "Initial slab pitches follow a series of short right facing corners to a ledge. Devious moves left then right to gain a stunning right facing corner halfway up the face. 40m of jamming." } ], "quality": 1, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": true, "description": null, "ascent": "Stu Allan, Bill Denz, 1978." }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/darrans/darran-mountains/mt-talbot/summit-pyramid/homegrown", "name": "Homegrown", "grade": "21", "topo_ref": "4", "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": true, "ewbank": "21", "description": "Starts 30m left of the JC crack on the left side of a rib. The route tends right over some easy ledges before moving left onto the grey slab. Continue up, passing the roof above. \r\nThis climb has a reputation for being both hard and committing with minimal protection. Yet is one of the more classic lines in the region." } ], "quality": 1, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": true, "description": null, "ascent": "Bill Denz, Calum Hudson, 1978." }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/darrans/darran-mountains/mt-talbot/summit-pyramid/jc-crack", "name": "JC Crack", "grade": "15", "topo_ref": "5", "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": true, "ewbank": "15", "description": "The prominent crack-line near the right side of the face: damp at times." } ], "quality": 2, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": true, "description": null, "ascent": "Murray Jones, Andy Campbell." }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/darrans/darran-mountains/mt-talbot/summit-pyramid/jc-crack-0", "name": "JC Crack", "grade": "IV,WI4", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": "IV", "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": "WI4", "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "Climb four pleasant pitches up the initial corner. Pitches five and six follow a crack line through the top wall and are airy but not severe. Climbed mainly on rock protection." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Geoff Gabites, Nigel Perry, July 1982." }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/darrans/darran-mountains/mt-talbot/summit-pyramid/bowen-lockwood", "name": "Bowen Lockwood", "grade": "15", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": true, "ewbank": "15", "description": "An unlikely line that breaks left from the J-C Crack up overlaps." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": true, "description": null, "ascent": "John Bowen, Keith Lockwood." }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/darrans/darran-mountains/mt-talbot/summit-pyramid/east-ridge-buttress", "name": "East Ridge Buttress", "grade": null, "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": true, "ewbank": null, "description": "5 Pitches: The route lies immediately right of the gully on the right-hand side of the Summit Pyramid. Quality rock with 6 aid moves." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": true, "description": null, "ascent": "Pete Moore, Nov 1974." }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/darrans/darran-mountains/mt-talbot/summit-pyramid/east-ridge-gully", "name": "East Ridge Gully", "grade": "IV,WI3", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": "IV", "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": "WI3", "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "Follows an obvious gully between thr Summit Pyramid and the East Ridge." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Geoff Gabites, Kevin Rogan, 1973." }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/darrans/darran-mountains/mt-talbot/summit-pyramid/tears-papatuanuku", "name": "Tears of Papatuanuku", "grade": "7,IV", "topo_ref": null, "image": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/route/tears%20of%20papatuanuku.jpg?itok=J64SidrN", "images": [ { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/route/tears%20of%20papatuanuku.jpg?itok=J64SidrN", "height": "244", "width": "325" } ], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": "7", "commitment": "IV", "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": true, "ewbank": null, "description": null } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": true, "description": "On buttress to right of East Ridge Gully. Up an overhanging chimney to a\nhanging ice dagger. Very steep and pumpy to pull onto ice, not climbed clean\non FA. Nice ice gully above to gain E ridge.", "ascent": "S Fortune, C Smith, K Parsons July 2016" } ], "places": [], "image": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/wide/public/image/Esat%20Talbot.jpg?itok=crOr0UmD", "images": [ { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/wide/public/image/Esat%20Talbot.jpg?itok=crOr0UmD", "height": "636", "width": "900" }, { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/image/tears%20of%20papatuanuku%20topo.jpg?itok=5tH29aeo", "height": "244", "width": "325" } ] }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/darrans/darran-mountains/mt-talbot/north-face", "name": "North Face", "altitude": null, "access": "The north face is best accessed from Gertrude Saddle. Ascend tussock and snow slopes toward Traverse Pass, traversing into the face where possible.", "description": null, "latlng": null, "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/darrans/darran-mountains/mt-talbot/north-face/nowhere-man", "name": "Nowhere Man", "grade": "18", "topo_ref": "10", "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": true, "ewbank": "18", "description": "Six pitches. Take the obvious crack line directly right of the red wall into a niche at the top. Scramble up for one pitch and finish up Smithereens." } ], "quality": 1, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": true, "description": null, "ascent": "Charlie Hobbs, Calum Hudson, Mar 1985." }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/darrans/darran-mountains/mt-talbot/north-face/clearing-misty-minds", "name": "Clearing of Misty Minds", "grade": "24", "topo_ref": "11", "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": true, "ewbank": "19", "description": "Climb the off-width: needs big gear." }, { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": true, "ewbank": "24", "description": "Take the overhanging flake corner just left of the snow patch; at the top of the flake move left following a break. Continue along the break or mantle to next break, move left and up the slab above to below the overhang." }, { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": true, "ewbank": "20", "description": "Move left below the overhang and up the middle of the slab." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": true, "description": null, "ascent": "Tim Robertson, Rob Wigley, Jan 2000." }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/darrans/darran-mountains/mt-talbot/north-face/smithereens", "name": "Smithereens", "grade": "17", "topo_ref": "12", "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": true, "ewbank": "17", "description": "The north-east pillar direct to the summit. Start up a crack-line to the right of the red wall passing the large snowfield on its left side, then follow cracks and chimneys to the summit." } ], "quality": 1, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": true, "description": null, "ascent": "Leigh Duncan, Calum Hudson, Barry Smith, Feb 1985." }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/darrans/darran-mountains/mt-talbot/north-face/neals-climb", "name": "Neal's Climb", "grade": "18", "topo_ref": "13", "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": true, "ewbank": "18", "description": "500m to the right of the start of Smithereens, follow a crack and groove up the centre of the sweep of grey slabs to the ridge." } ], "quality": 1, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": true, "description": null, "ascent": "Calum Hudson, Barry Smith, Feb 1985." }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/darrans/darran-mountains/mt-talbot/north-face/bosshard-ritchie", "name": "Bosshard Ritchie", "grade": "17", "topo_ref": "14", "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": true, "ewbank": "17", "description": "Three pitches on the right-hand end of beautiful brown slabs. Climbs right facing flake system then slabs and crack to the major ledge above slab." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": true, "description": null, "ascent": "Sam Bosshard, Al Ritchie, 1996." } ], "places": [], "image": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/wide/public/image/Talbot%20Nth.jpg?itok=XllG9aeM", "images": [ { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/wide/public/image/Talbot%20Nth.jpg?itok=XllG9aeM", "height": "636", "width": "900" } ] }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/darrans/darran-mountains/mt-talbot/south-face", "name": "South Face", "altitude": null, "access": "Via McPherson Cirque", "description": "Winter Routes\nThe South Face of Talbot marks the right hand edge of Macpherson Cirque. Don\u2019t underestimate the effects of foreshortening, these are long routes taking most of the day and some of the night. Descend via Talbot\u2019s Ladder, a relatively \u2018avalanche safe\u2019 descent, which is far longer than it looks.\nThe slopes above this face are among the most unpredictable in the area. Bear this in mind when considering a route on this cliff. Also bear in mind that the routes finish some distance below the top of Talbot. Don't fall into the trap of thinking that it's all over just because there's no more technical climbing.", "latlng": null, "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/darrans/darran-mountains/mt-talbot/south-face/geezers-need-excitement", "name": "Geezers Need Excitement", "grade": "6,IV", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": "500m", "pitches": [ { "alpine": "6", "commitment": "IV", "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": "500m", "bolts": null, "trad": true, "ewbank": null, "description": null } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": true, "description": "This line takes the large, right leaning, man eating corner high on the left\nside of the face. Originally climbed in lean conditions, technical difficulty\nmay ease with more ice, however, more snow may increase objective danger.\nGain the foot of the corner via a prominent left slanting gully, on easy snow\nwith the occasional harder step, for about 250m, to a cave below a large\nroof. From here four hard sustained pitches are followed to easier ground,\nleading to the upper snowfield.\nGain the right hand side of the roof via an ice smear from the snow gully\nbelow. If the smear is not present a direct traverse may be possible. Climb a\nshort overhanging turfy wall, then traverse left on flakes back into the main\ngully. Above this, three pitches climb the corner system, each with difficult\nsections traversing out right underneath the large roofs.", "ascent": "S. Fortune, R. Measures, July 2012" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/darrans/darran-mountains/mt-talbot/south-face/posing-paparazzi", "name": "Posing for the Paparazzi", "grade": "6,V", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": "6", "commitment": "V", "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "On the left side of face. Climb up to the top of the snowfield immediately right of a large gully. The route starts up the buttress which is the other side of the large gulley. The first couple of pitches follow a very thin runnel of ice, moving from right to left. The climbing is difficult mixed climbing, putting to good affect the joys of frozen turf. \r\nThe slopes above Posing for the Paparazzi regularly avalanche and an easterly weather pattern may make it more dangerous than usual." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Allan Uren, Dave Vass, 2000." }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/darrans/darran-mountains/mt-talbot/south-face/south-west-face", "name": "South West Face", "grade": null, "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": true, "ewbank": null, "description": "Start in the cirque directly opposite Homer Saddle and take a direct line to the summit. Climb up the fan and follow steep rock with an ascending traverse to the right, up snowgrass slopes to some brittle rock, then up a large rock corner and continue up parallel to the usual exit cracks behind the notch to the summit." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": true, "description": null, "ascent": "Austin Brookes, Colin Dainty, Ken Hamilton, Ralph Miller, Oct 1965." }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/darrans/darran-mountains/mt-talbot/south-face/al-macpherson", "name": "Al Macpherson", "grade": "3,IV", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": "3", "commitment": "IV", "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": true, "ewbank": null, "description": "The triangular face below the Notch Route, going right through to the summit. Starting at the toe of the buttress around to the left from the Notch Route. Joining the ridge above the notch by climbing narrow ice runnels." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": true, "description": null, "ascent": "Allan Uren (solo), July 1992." }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/darrans/darran-mountains/mt-talbot/south-face/notch-route", "name": "Notch Route", "grade": null, "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": true, "ewbank": null, "description": "From the top of the shingle fan behind Homer Hut the route zigzags out left to reach the ridge at the higher of two prominent notches, then up a crack around the corner to reach the upper South Ridge." } ], "quality": 1, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": true, "description": null, "ascent": "Bill Gordon, Gerry Hall-Jones, 1954." }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/darrans/darran-mountains/mt-talbot/south-face/notch-route-variation", "name": "Notch Route Variation", "grade": null, "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": true, "ewbank": null, "description": "Up the Notch Route until it tends left, go up a crack in the wall (A1, but can be free-climbed by traversing left) climb right for two rope lengths, then up and right to the large cleft to the South East Ridge." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": true, "description": null, "ascent": "John Fantini, Murray Jones, Jan 1970." }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/darrans/darran-mountains/mt-talbot/south-face/notch-route-winter", "name": "Notch Route (Winter)", "grade": "3,IV", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": "3", "commitment": "IV", "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": true, "ewbank": null, "description": "Starting up the large snow slope behind Homer Hut. Trend up and right toward the ridge." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": true, "description": null, "ascent": "Geoff Gabites, Kevin Rogan, 1973." }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/darrans/darran-mountains/mt-talbot/south-face/dingle-sissons", "name": "Dingle Sissons", "grade": "18", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": true, "ewbank": "18", "description": "A feature on the right side of the face. From the highest point on the slabby lower wall, climb up through a series of grooves to a steep wall at three quarter hight, crux." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": true, "description": null, "ascent": "Graeme Dingle, Noel Sissons, 1972." } ], "places": [], "image": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/wide/public/image/sfot%20topo.jpg?itok=hG8HiVG0", "images": [ { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/wide/public/image/sfot%20topo.jpg?itok=hG8HiVG0", "height": "900", "width": "675" } ] }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/darrans/darran-mountains/mt-talbot/psychopath-wall", "name": "Psychopath Wall", "altitude": null, "access": null, "description": "The large, ominous face immediately above Homer Hut on the true right of the Gertrude Valley.", "latlng": null, "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/darrans/darran-mountains/mt-talbot/psychopath-wall/psychopathy", "name": "Psychopathy", "grade": "V,WI6", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": "V", "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": "WI6", "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "The route starts on the left-hand end approx. 400m right of the edge. Start on the middle of three white lines, keeping to the right for three pitches up to the \u2018ear\u2019. Continue up following gullies right for another five pitches finishing on a hanging chandelier of ice." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Matt Evrard, Dave Vass, Aug 1992." }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/darrans/darran-mountains/mt-talbot/psychopath-wall/psychopath-wall", "name": "Psychopath Wall", "grade": "22", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": true, "ewbank": "22", "description": "Eight pitches. A committing and vegetated route on the lower cirque wall of Mt Talbot. The route takes an almost direct line through the face 200m from the right-hand end." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": true, "description": null, "ascent": "Gordon Legge, Simon Parsons, 1996." }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/darrans/darran-mountains/mt-talbot/psychopath-wall/slightly-psychotic", "name": "Slightly Psychotic", "grade": "III,WI4", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": "III", "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": "WI4", "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "Follows the large avo-swept gully at the north end of the wall." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Al Mark, Jon Taylor." }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/darrans/darran-mountains/mt-talbot/psychopath-wall/actions-speak-loudest", "name": "Actions speak loudest", "grade": "III,WI4", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": "400m", "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": "III", "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": "WI4", "mixed": null, "length": "400m", "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "Right hand end of the wall. A mix of frozen turf, rock and snow." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "James Edwards, Gary Kinsey, Andrew Young, 2005" } ], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] } ], "image": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/wide/public/image/Talbot1.jpg?itok=OY4pNSzB", "images": [ { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/wide/public/image/Talbot1.jpg?itok=OY4pNSzB", "height": "636", "width": "900" } ] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/%C5%8Dhau-landsborough/main-divide/welch-pk": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/%C5%8Dhau-landsborough/main-divide/welch-pk", "name": "Welch Pk", "altitude": "2103m", "access": null, "description": null, "latlng": [ "-43.9094", "169.7642" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/%C5%8Dhau-landsborough/main-divide/welch-pk/chloe-col", "name": "From Chloe Col", "grade": "1", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "1", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": null } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": "Easy travel along the divide from Chloe Col.", "ascent": "Christopher Johnson, Scott Russell, Brian Wyn Irwin January 1933" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/%C5%8Dhau-landsborough/main-divide/welch-pk/west-flank", "name": "West Flank", "grade": "1", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "1", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": null } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": "An alternative west \u2013east crossing point is to follow the easy sidle from\nthe south around the west flank of Mt Welch to reach Chloe Col.", "ascent": "Graham Burns, Brian Wyn Irwin, Christopher Johnson, Scott Russell, January 1933" } ], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/canterbury/butler-range/mt-butler": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/canterbury/butler-range/mt-butler", "name": "Mt Butler", "altitude": "2103m", "access": null, "description": "Mt Butler was first climbed by the surveyor George Roberts in 1881.", "latlng": [ "-43.250017", "170.931902" ], "routes": [], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/main-divide-of-the-southern-alps/mt-treadwell": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/main-divide-of-the-southern-alps/mt-treadwell", "name": "Mt Treadwell", "altitude": "2102m", "access": null, "description": null, "latlng": [ "-43.064185", "171.219006" ], "routes": [], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/moffat-peak": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/moffat-peak", "name": "Moffat Pk", "altitude": "2102m", "access": null, "description": null, "latlng": [ "-45.0190562", "168.12827899" ], "routes": [], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/main-divide-of-the-southern-alps/mt-treadwell-0": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/main-divide-of-the-southern-alps/mt-treadwell-0", "name": "Mt Treadwell", "altitude": "2102m", "access": null, "description": "na", "latlng": [ "-43.064185", "171.219006" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/main-divide-of-the-southern-alps/mt-treadwell-0/gibson-stream", "name": "From Gibson Stream", "grade": null, "topo_ref": "GS", "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "From Gibson Stream, climb through scree and steep tussock east of the bluffs and waterfall\r\ndraining the basin below Mt Treadwell. From this basin several options exist to the summit." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": null }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/main-divide-of-the-southern-alps/mt-treadwell-0/north-ridge", "name": "North Ridge", "grade": null, "topo_ref": "NR", "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "The North Ridge can be reached via a traverse from Mungo Pass, or from the basin east of the\r\npeak and a small glacier between Mt Treadwell and Mungo Peak.\r\n." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "The first ascent was made by a CMC party before 1937" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/main-divide-of-the-southern-alps/mt-treadwell-0/brunswick-creek", "name": "From Brunswick Creek", "grade": "1", "topo_ref": "BC", "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "1", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "From gravel in the upper basin of Brunswick Creek, head south-east up a scree gully that leads\r\nto a final short scramble on rock." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": null } ], "places": [], "image": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/wide/public/image/Treadwell.png?itok=_BcLLY6U", "images": [ { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/wide/public/image/Treadwell.png?itok=_BcLLY6U", "height": "590", "width": "900" }, { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/image/p266_0.png?itok=KObYwEn2", "height": "259", "width": "325" } ] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/darrans/darran-mountains/marian-pk": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/darrans/darran-mountains/marian-pk", "name": "Marian Pk", "altitude": "2102m", "access": "Marian Sabre Col\nThe Marian side of the Col has been descended; eight abseils, not recommended.", "description": "Although the ridges are straightforward, the North Face was something of a breakthrough for New Zealand climbing in 1973, due to the level of commitment and its unprotectable nature.", "latlng": [ "-44.74837911", "168.04558754" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/fiordland/darran-mountains/marian-pk/west-ridge", "name": "West Ridge", "grade": null, "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "Starting from the summit of Barrier Peak the blocky ridge continues over to Marian: very exposed but easy travel." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "A D Jackson, 1934." }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/fiordland/darran-mountains/marian-pk/east-ridge", "name": "East Ridge", "grade": null, "topo_ref": "ER", "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "A pleasant rock ridge from the Marian Sabre Col.\r\nThe route may require a short abseil on the descent but it can be down climbed." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Mike Gill, Phil Houghton, Jan 1959." }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/fiordland/darran-mountains/marian-pk/north-east-rib", "name": "North East Rib", "grade": "16", "topo_ref": "NER", "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": true, "ewbank": "16", "description": "At the head of the snow-field, four pitches up a clean rock rib to the summit ridge." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": true, "description": null, "ascent": "Graham Clendon, Murray Judge, Nov 1972." }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/darrans/darran-mountains/marian-pk/gong-show", "name": "Gong Show!", "grade": "18", "topo_ref": "GS", "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": true, "ewbank": "18", "description": "Starting from the level section of central spur (the Sabre Marian gully central spur), traverse two sketchy pitches over to start of obvious buttress (pitons useful). Traversing to here avoids the hideously vegetated terrain below and takes you straight to the real climbing. Climb four pitches up buttress on good rock. Mixture of broken slabs and corners with cracks. Good gear. Rock gets better the higher you go (crux 18). Terrain then eases to scramble to summit. Originally accessed from Marian Peak." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": true, "description": null, "ascent": "Mike Buchanan, Ivor Koo. Feb 2013" } ], "places": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/fiordland/darran-mountains/marian-pk/north-face", "name": "North Face", "altitude": null, "access": null, "description": "Described as 'forbiddingly steep and dishearteningly vegetated', the North Face of Marian is not for the faint-hearted.", "latlng": null, "routes": [], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/darrans/darran-mountains/marian-pk/south-face", "name": "South Face", "altitude": null, "access": "Most recent ascents have been via the Crosscut-Barrier col.", "description": "Routes on the South Face are accessed by climbing up the slabs below Sabre then traversing the terrace that runs the length of the wall. The lower cirque wall climbed with aid during the FA of Maid Marion and freed when Mater Dei was climbed\nThis photo shows the upper wall approx 600m vertical with Mater Dei 1000m, 20 in red and Maid Marian 1000m 21 in Green. Both routes start via the same six pitches on the lower tier which range from 16 - 20. Mater Dei is less sustained and on average has easier climbing. The rock however on Maid Marian is excellent and it offers clean sustained climbing most of the way up the route.", "latlng": null, "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/fiordland/darran-mountains/marian-pk/south-face/herron-hyslop-whiston", "name": "Herron Hyslop Whiston", "grade": null, "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": "500m", "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": "500m", "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "A 500m long route taking a left-slanting groove starting in the center of the face. Five points of aid." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Phil Herron, Ken Hyslop, Neal Whiston, 1975." }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/fiordland/darran-mountains/marian-pk/south-face/mater-dei", "name": "Mater Dei", "grade": "20", "topo_ref": "Red line", "image": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/route/Marian%20Topo.jpg?itok=q2KJfrVp", "images": [ { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/route/Marian%20Topo.jpg?itok=q2KJfrVp", "height": "325", "width": "244" } ], "length": "1000m", "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": "1000m", "bolts": null, "trad": true, "ewbank": "20", "description": "shares with their other route, Maid Marian (21, 1000m). They freed a previously aided (A1), grade 20 pitch through a small chimney and tunnel, which led to a large terrace between the south faces of Marian Pk and Barrier Pk. Ben and Daniel quickly traversed left under avalanche-prone snow patches, along the edge of the terrace to access an easier line off to the left. The next 15 pitches started off with 250 metres of easy (grades 14-16) simultaneous climbing, followed by six pitches of steeper (grades 17-20) terrain, which were the crux of the route. Ben and Daniel then cruised up the last, easy 100 metres to the ridgeline, which Daniel explained wound up \u2018just down and left of the true summit.\u2019" } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": true, "description": null, "ascent": "Daniel Joll, Ben Dare, Feb 2014" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/fiordland/darran-mountains/marian-pk/south-face/maid-marian", "name": "Maid Marian", "grade": "22,A2", "topo_ref": "Green line", "image": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/route/P3090028.jpg?itok=jsRpfeJP", "images": [ { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/route/P3090028.jpg?itok=jsRpfeJP", "height": "325", "width": "244" } ], "length": "1000m", "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": "A2", "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": "1000m", "bolts": null, "trad": true, "ewbank": "22", "description": null } ], "quality": 3, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": true, "description": "After the lower tier, you wander up onto the middle ramp. Above the right\nhand snow patch you look for a right leading ramp / corner. Follow this\ntrending right of the corner on good rock. Then straight up maybe moving a\nlittle bit back left until you reach the base of a big mossy corner - Hislop\nroute I guess. From there move right and up the face which is one of the\npics you have. Another crux or two is then encountered and you move more or\nless up the prow sticking to good steep clean granite", "ascent": "Daniel Joll, Ben Dare" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/fiordland/darran-mountains/marian-pk/south-face/tiki-tour", "name": "Tiki Tour", "grade": "IV,WI4", "topo_ref": "TT", "image": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/route/Upper%20Marian%20TikiTour.jpg?itok=emXMeTzT", "images": [ { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/route/Upper%20Marian%20TikiTour.jpg?itok=emXMeTzT", "height": "248", "width": "325" } ], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": "IV", "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": "WI4", "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "Follow a gully through the cirque wall below Sabre, sidling up a 45 degree snow ramp toward Marian. Continue up ice gullies on the upper south eastern face for fifteen pitches. The first ascent was done in a full day from the Hollyford, ten hours on the route and out to Homer.\r\n\u201cA good walk with very little tough climbing. I\u2019ll grade the climb as four, and a fucking lot harder in crap conditions.\u201d Kim Logan" } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Kim Logan, Pete Cammell, Aug 1983." }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/fiordland/darran-mountains/marian-pk/south-face/south-east-face", "name": "South East Face", "grade": null, "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "The small face beside the Marian Sabre Col." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Murray Jones, John Fantini." } ], "places": [], "image": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/wide/public/image/Upper%2520Wall%2520Topo.jpg?itok=Km_J95F6", "images": [ { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/wide/public/image/Upper%2520Wall%2520Topo.jpg?itok=Km_J95F6", "height": "360", "width": "480" }, { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/image/Upper%20Marian%20TikiTour_0.jpg?itok=G8_4aRCI", "height": "248", "width": "325" } ] }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/fiordland/darran-mountains/marian-pk/north-face-0", "name": "North Face", "altitude": null, "access": null, "description": "Once described as \u2018forbiddingly steep and dishearteningly vegetated\u2019, the North Face of Marian is not for the faint-hearted. The original 1973 ascent was something of a breakthrough due to the level of commitment and unprotectable nature of the climbing.", "latlng": null, "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/fiordland/darran-mountains/marian-pk/north-face-0/left-hand-route", "name": "Left-hand Route", "grade": null, "topo_ref": "3", "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": true, "ewbank": null, "description": "21 pitches, all free except for 6m of aid through a roof starting 20m left of the original line. Climb slabs for five pitches towards the overhangs, avoiding the vegetation where possible. A short section of aid through the overhangs leads to slabs on the upper section of the wall. Follow the obvious weakness in the middle of the face until a complete lack of protection in the vegetated cracks forces you out left onto steep slabs. A short crux leads to easier climbing, 6-7 pitches, toward the summit. \r\nAscended over three days in deteriorating weather!" } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": true, "description": null, "ascent": "John McCartney, Al Ritchie, Feb 1996." }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/fiordland/darran-mountains/marian-pk/north-face-0/original-route-a4", "name": "Original Route A4", "grade": "18", "topo_ref": "4", "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": true, "ewbank": "18", "description": "24 pitches. Start at the highest point of the scree in the centre of the face; three pitches of slabs to a ledge, three pitches of steep wall climbing and two aid pitches to the lip of the roof. The grassy slabs above are climbed to the prominent large groove which is followed to its top, breaking out left onto ledges leading to the summit." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": true, "description": null, "ascent": "Bill Denz, Phil Herron, Murray Judge, Dec 1973." }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/fiordland/darran-mountains/marian-pk/north-face-0/electric-earth", "name": "Electric Earth", "grade": "19,III", "topo_ref": null, "image": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/2024-03/Marian_electric_earth.jpg?itok=3VDweesJ", "images": [ { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/2024-03/Marian_electric_earth.jpg?itok=3VDweesJ", "height": "325", "width": "230" } ], "length": "740m", "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": "III", "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": "60m", "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": "8", "description": "Climb diagonally right up slabby crack system to big ledge. Belay bolt at right end." }, { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": "60m", "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": "18", "description": "Step down right, then climb diagonally up right, traversing past plants and bulges to ledge. Belay on natural pro or at bolt up and left on ledges." }, { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": "60m", "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": "10", "description": "Climb up and right from bolt (or straight up if on natural belay) then up broken ground to belay bolt." }, { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": "60m", "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": "16", "description": "Thin moves and pro off belay, then easier to ledge. From ledge climb up cracks and slabs to 2 bolt belay below big overhang/recess." }, { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": "100m", "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": "5", "description": "Traverse left around ar\u00eate and corner to grassy ledges. At drainage gully climb up approx. 50m to belay bolt in right wall. (Simulclimbed \u2013 100m total)." }, { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": "60m", "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": "13", "description": "Climb out of gully via right wall and up ar\u00eate then grass, trending right to bolt." }, { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": "55m", "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": "18", "description": "Tricky moves through overlap above belay, then slabby rock and ar\u00eate to belay bolt in top of corner." }, { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": "60m", "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": "17", "description": "Grassy at first, staying near ar\u00eate then up to a left-facing corner crack \u2013 climb this and over bulge to a bolt." }, { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": "55m", "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": "10", "description": "Move right around ar\u00eate and into grassy gully. Climb directly up to base or prominent ramp that slices the ar\u00eate/headwall. Bolt at base of ramp." }, { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": "60m", "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": "19", "description": "Climb featured ramp/wall, keeping right (spaced pro), to slopey ar\u00eate. Up ar\u00eate and behind massive jammed block, then up final corner and crack to bolt/belay on slab. Scramble up to base of next wall, belay on cam and nut." }, { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": "60m", "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": "12", "description": "Short wall and grassy steps to bolt belay on left wall of loose gully." }, { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": "50m", "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": "18", "description": "Climb slab then chimney/bridge to ledge and final short overhanging corner." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": "0", "natural_pro": false, "description": "This route is fully equipped for abseil descent (16 abseils). Bolts were placed with abseiling in mind rather than belaying, so at some belays/stances it will be more comfortable to belay on natural pro. Take a full rack (cams to #4 Friend, and double set of wires).", "ascent": "Matt Quirke, Mark Watson, 27 January 2008" } ], "places": [], "image": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/wide/public/image/D98.jpg?itok=Z0-APpT2", "images": [ { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/wide/public/image/D98.jpg?itok=Z0-APpT2", "height": "612", "width": "428" } ] } ], "image": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/wide/public/image/Gong%20Show%202.jpg?itok=eLiKCBQI", "images": [ { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/wide/public/image/Gong%20Show%202.jpg?itok=eLiKCBQI", "height": "612", "width": "428" } ] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aspiring/main-divide/mt-greenfield": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aspiring/main-divide/mt-greenfield", "name": "Mt Greenfield", "altitude": "2101m", "access": null, "description": null, "latlng": [ "-44.0088", "169.5915" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/%C5%8Dhau-landsborough/main-divide/mt-greenfield/wilson-pass", "name": "From Wilson Pass", "grade": "2-", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "2-", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": null } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": "From Wilsons Pass a traverse of the divide provides easy access to the peaks\nto the south.", "ascent": "M.R.Fitchett, GrahamRiley, J.D.Willis, February 1934" } ], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/westland/devils-backbone/mt-barlow": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/westland/devils-backbone/mt-barlow", "name": "Mt Barlow", "altitude": "2100m", "access": null, "description": "na", "latlng": [ "-43.316061", "170.612268" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/westland/devils-backbone/mt-barlow/south-east-ridge", "name": "South East Ridge", "grade": "1", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "1", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "A straight forward snow plod from the Garden of Eden." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Don Viggers, Kath Boswell, Olive Stansell, Bernard Greig, Jim Taylor, Chas Watson-Munro, 29 Dec 1939" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/westland/devils-backbone/mt-barlow/north-west-ridge", "name": "North West Ridge", "grade": null, "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "Climb tussock benches and scree, leading to easy snow slopes higher on the ridge. These two routes on Barlow have been used as a transalpine route to the Garden of Eden from the Barlow, offering a route with less threat from stonefall than Vertebrae Col." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": null } ], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/%C5%8Dhau-landsborough/elcho%E2%80%93huxley-mountains/pt-2100": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/%C5%8Dhau-landsborough/elcho%E2%80%93huxley-mountains/pt-2100", "name": "Pt 2100", "altitude": "2100m", "access": null, "description": null, "latlng": [ "-43.9402", "169.7997" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/%C5%8Dhau-landsborough/elcho%E2%80%93huxley-mountains/pt-2100/west-slope", "name": "West Slope", "grade": "1", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "1", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": null } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": "From the upper South Elcho, climb the easy western slope to the summit which\noverlooks upper Tahr Creek. Descent can be via the steepish east face to the\nHopkins Valley, or ridge to Tahr Creek and the footbridge by the Hopkins\nValley.", "ascent": "First ascent unknown, scramble" } ], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/end-peak": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/end-peak", "name": "End Pk", "altitude": "2100m", "access": null, "description": null, "latlng": [ "-44.68157204", "168.90799929" ], "routes": [], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/main-divide-of-the-southern-alps/pt-2098": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/main-divide-of-the-southern-alps/pt-2098", "name": "Pt 2098", "altitude": "2098m", "access": null, "description": "East of Whitcombe Pass and the Martius Glacier.", "latlng": [ "-43.218062", "171.003742" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/main-divide-of-the-southern-alps/pt-2098/south-west-ridge", "name": "South West Ridge", "grade": null, "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "This high point offers good views and is easily reached from the side creek draining the Martius\r\nGlacier." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": null }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/main-divide-of-the-southern-alps/pt-2098/north-east-ridge", "name": "North East Ridge", "grade": null, "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "The North East Ridge can be reached from the straightforward glacier at the head of Cattle\r\nStream and offers undemanding climbing to the top." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": null } ], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/otago/huxley-range/mt-rigel": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/otago/huxley-range/mt-rigel", "name": "Mt Rigel", "altitude": "2097m", "access": null, "description": "TBA", "latlng": [ "-44.1862276744", "169.566325298" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/otago/huxley-range/mt-rigel/east-spur", "name": "East Spur", "grade": "1", "topo_ref": null, "image": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/route/IMG_8655.JPG?itok=jYjnA5PH", "images": [ { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/route/IMG_8655.JPG?itok=jYjnA5PH", "height": "244", "width": "325" } ], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "1", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": null } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": "From Upper Canyon Creek, follow up the true right of the creek/waterfall\ndirectly up towards the summit. Once the face is met, a small distance north\nfrom the below the summit, there is some exposed but very easy climbing for\n10-15m before ascending an easy series of rotten steps. Follow the ridge\nsouth to the summit.", "ascent": "OSONZAC Instruction course, October 1952" } ], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aspiring/harris-mountains/shark%E2%80%99s-tooth": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aspiring/harris-mountains/shark%E2%80%99s-tooth", "name": "Shark\u2019s Tooth", "altitude": "2096m", "access": null, "description": "Shark's Tooth is a spectacular spire above the West Matukutuki River.", "latlng": [ "-44.530005", "168.776826" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aspiring/harris-mountains/shark%E2%80%99s-tooth/south-west-ridge", "name": "South West Ridge", "grade": "2,I", "topo_ref": "1", "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": "2", "commitment": "I", "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": null } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": "Climb to the col on the Shotover-Matukituki divide. An easy tussock and rock ridge, with snow on its south side, leads north east from the col to the final rock pyramid, which is normally climbed by the moderately steep, rather loose slabs of the West Face or the rocks of the South Ridge. Five or six hours are required from Raspberry Flat to the summit.", "ascent": "waBob Craigie, Phil Cook, Roland Rodda, Scott Gilkison, 19 December 1939" } ], "places": [], "image": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/wide/public/image/Copy%20of%20LowerValley_opt_0.jpeg?itok=HyAJj5oV", "images": [ { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/wide/public/image/Copy%20of%20LowerValley_opt_0.jpeg?itok=HyAJj5oV", "height": "236", "width": "447" } ] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/2096": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/2096", "name": "Pt 2096", "altitude": "2096m", "access": null, "description": "Ailsa Mountains", "latlng": [ "-44.88795631", "168.18361183" ], "routes": [], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/mt-olympus-se": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/mt-olympus-se", "name": "Pt 2096", "altitude": "2096m", "access": null, "description": null, "latlng": [ "-43.1861506", "171.6109589" ], "routes": [], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/canterbury/craigieburn-range/mt-olympus": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/canterbury/craigieburn-range/mt-olympus", "name": "Mt Olympus", "altitude": "2094m", "access": null, "description": "Mt Olympus ski area", "latlng": [ "-43.1834", "171.609964" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/canterbury/craigieburn-range/mt-olympus/mount-olympus-and-ryton-valley-ski-touring", "name": "MOUNT OLYMPUS AND RYTON VALLEY, Ski Touring.", "grade": null, "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "Grade 2\t\t\t\t200 metres\r\nFrom the top of the lifts at Mt Olympus ski area, ski through a basin to the north, which contains a tarn in summer. A snow ramp is then seen ascending to the right (as you look at the slope), which is a convenient way to access the flattish ridge at around 967795. Sidle the north-western slopes of this peak by initially ascending the west ridge to around 2000m elevation. Either continue NE towards an 1800m col and gentle slopes at the head of the Ryton Valley, or descend into the Ryton SE from point 1974 where the slopes steepen as they descend.\r\nAn alternative way to access the mid Ryton Valley is via \u201cThe Sphinx\u201d, a col at 1920m, grid ref 973789, very obvious from window of the Mt Olympus main lodge. Traverse across to the east from the top of the lifts until directly under the Sphinx and climb on foot straight up 160 metres or so to the col. From there SE-facing slopes lead down to the floor of the Ryton Valley.\r\nIn good snow cover it is possible to ski all the way down the Ryton to \u201cCoach Corner\u201d at 1000m elevation on the access road (grid ref 969757). The last few km may not have much snow on the valley sides, but an old farm track usually holds enough snow to allow ski or snowboard travel.\r\nACCESS: Please note that the Ryton valley is private property and has recently changed ownership (2022). It is no longer acceptable to tour through the Ryton valley from a starting point other than Mt Olympus ski area and essential to check with skifield operations before touring outside of the area boundaries." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": null } ], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/fiordland/earl-mountains/mt-suter": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/fiordland/earl-mountains/mt-suter", "name": "Mt Suter", "altitude": "2094m", "access": null, "description": "tba", "latlng": [ "-44.81840063", "168.0130637" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/fiordland/earl-mountains/mt-suter/south-ridge", "name": "South Ridge", "grade": null, "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "The party traversed Suter descending the Falls Creek-Hollyford ridge line. The crest of this ridge was climbed by JH Christie and T Moore in Oct 1933." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Dal Ryan, Colin Lea, Jan 1960." }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/fiordland/earl-mountains/mt-suter/south-face", "name": "South Face", "grade": null, "topo_ref": null, "image": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/route/dscn9266_stitch_topo.jpg?itok=wGch13aK", "images": [ { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/route/dscn9266_stitch_topo.jpg?itok=wGch13aK", "height": "217", "width": "325" } ], "length": "700m", "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": "700m", "bolts": null, "trad": true, "ewbank": null, "description": "At the head of Falls Creek in the Earl Mountains, Fiordland. \r\nBen and Stephen carried rock gear but placed little, finding continuous good-quality ice for the length of the route. They bivvied on the summit and descended via the full length of the east ridge back to the Hollyford" } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": true, "description": null, "ascent": "Ben Dare and Stephen Skelton, Jul 2014" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/fiordland/earl-mountains/mt-suter/original-route", "name": "Original Route", "grade": null, "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "A diagonal line up to the left to gain the summit ridge." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Bill Gordon, Ralph Miller, Noel Dunlop, Morrie Davis, Mar 1959." }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/fiordland/earl-mountains/mt-suter/east-ridge-gully-route", "name": "East Ridge Gully Route", "grade": "2,II,2+", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": "700m", "pitches": [ { "alpine": "2", "commitment": "II", "mtcook": "2+", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": "700m", "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": null } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": "From upper Falls Creek around 1000m contour, obvious valley to ridge top\nsnow-ice gully with no escape. Probably below spot height 1762m on south\nside of the East Ridge of Mt Suter. Steep pitch near mid height. Descend by\nheading east down ridge and down climb gully systems to valley. Good bivi\ncave in valley.", "ascent": "Jon Taylor" } ], "places": [], "image": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/wide/public/image/dscn9312.jpg?itok=b8r4i7MG", "images": [ { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/wide/public/image/dscn9312.jpg?itok=b8r4i7MG", "height": "668", "width": "860" } ] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/angelus-ridge-top": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/angelus-ridge-top", "name": "Pt 2093", "altitude": "2093m", "access": null, "description": "Highest point on the Angelus Ridge.", "latlng": [ "-41.91597786", "172.76139041" ], "routes": [], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/david-peaks": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/david-peaks", "name": "David Pks", "altitude": "2093m", "access": null, "description": null, "latlng": [ "-44.97382681", "168.14603269" ], "routes": [], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aspiring/drake-range/rosy-pk": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aspiring/drake-range/rosy-pk", "name": "Rosy Pk", "altitude": "2093m", "access": null, "description": null, "latlng": [ "-44.15969107", "168.82883961" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aspiring/drake-range/rosy-pk/south-ridge", "name": "South Ridge", "grade": null, "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": "Traverse the ridge from Sombre Pk.", "ascent": "T Barcham, A Cunningham, B D Matthews, G J McCallum, December 1950" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aspiring/drake-range/rosy-pk/north-ridge", "name": "North Ridge", "grade": "2,III", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": "2", "commitment": "III", "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "The slopes to the north of Taffy Creek provide straightforward access to the tops. Climb the step at the toe of the ridge before winding up the blocky ridgeline to the summit." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Allan Brent, Nina Dickerhof, James Thornton, December 2017" } ], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/canterbury-westland-alps/havelock-river/milne-pk": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/canterbury-westland-alps/havelock-river/milne-pk", "name": "Milne Pk", "altitude": "2093m", "access": null, "description": null, "latlng": [ "-43.394009", "170.662394" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/canterbury-westland-alps/havelock-river/milne-pk/south-ridge", "name": "South Ridge", "grade": "1", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "1", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "An easy scramble from Eric Stream." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Edgar Williams, April 1930" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/canterbury-westland-alps/havelock-river/milne-pk/north-ridge", "name": "North Ridge", "grade": "1", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "1", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "From the col between Sword and Milne Peaks climb easy rock to the summit." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "John Pascoe, Bernie McGlynn, March 1950" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/canterbury-westland-alps/havelock-river/milne-pk/south-east-ridge", "name": "South East Ridge", "grade": "1", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "1", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "From the Havelock River climb through grassy bluffs, following snow gullies where possible.\r\nEventually a snowfield is reached that leads to the South East Ridge. Follow the ridge, which is\r\nslabby and loose near the summit." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "John Pascoe, Bernie McGlynn (descended), March 1950" } ], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/darrans/darran-mountains/mt-tuhawaiki": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/darrans/darran-mountains/mt-tuhawaiki", "name": "Mt Tuhawaiki", "altitude": "2092m", "access": null, "description": null, "latlng": [ "-44.68385", "168.07761" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/darrans/darran-mountains/mt-tuhawaiki/over-rain-bro", "name": "Over the Rain Bro", "grade": "19,II", "topo_ref": null, "image": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/route/Tuhawaiki_topo.jpg?itok=MUCvGiBh", "images": [ { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/route/Tuhawaiki_topo.jpg?itok=MUCvGiBh", "height": "325", "width": "244" }, { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/route/Rainbow_Lake.jpg?itok=hiw10Or2", "height": "244", "width": "325" } ], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": "II", "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": true, "ewbank": "19", "description": "This route is on the buttress that marks the end of Tuhawaiki's south-east ridge. Left-hand skyline in photo.\r\nAccess by walking up ridge above Rainbow Lake.\r\nDescend gully looker's right via three abseils and down-scrambling." } ], "quality": 1, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": true, "description": "P1: traverse in above roofs from right. find a way up the wall, angling up\nand left towards weakness feature\nP2: head up the crack/weakness\nP3: continues up the weakness, passing a loose section which would be better\navoided by climbing left\nP4: corner to crack on right with steep short off-width at top\nP5: excellent climbing on the left arete\nP6: continue up the buttress to top, take a photo on top of the pointy\nboulder overlooking the Hollyford.", "ascent": "Kester Brown, Greg Jack, Troy Mattingley. Feb 2014" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/darrans/darran-mountains/mt-tuhawaiki/weigh-pie", "name": "Weigh a Pie", "grade": "19,II", "topo_ref": null, "image": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/route/P1110710.jpg?itok=Pom1YYPN", "images": [ { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/route/P1110710.jpg?itok=Pom1YYPN", "height": "325", "width": "292" } ], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": "II", "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": "19", "description": "This route is to the right of Over the Rain Bro" } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": "7 pitches in total.\nFirst 5 pitches up broken buttress.\nP6 is a good quality grade 19 corner.\nP7 is and very traditional crack/chimney pitch that goes at about 14.", "ascent": "Mike Buchanan, Kieran Parsons. 11/2/15" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/darrans/darran-mountains/mt-tuhawaiki/south-east-ridge", "name": "South East Ridge", "grade": "I", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": "I", "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "From Rainbow Lake climb around to the snowfield and cross this to reach the upper part of the ridge." } ], "quality": 1, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Alex Dickie, Jim Speden, February 1937" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/darrans/darran-mountains/mt-tuhawaiki/walk-spur", "name": "Walk-off Spur", "grade": "16,I", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": "I", "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": true, "ewbank": "16", "description": "Good climbing on the sharp-edged spur between the Rainbow Lake and Boulder Basin catchments. Walk off on the Boulder Basin side when the spur levels off (though it'd be worthwhile continuing on to join the North Ridge to the summit)." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": true, "description": null, "ascent": "John McCallum, Tom Riley, Dave Vass, February 2013" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/darrans/darran-mountains/mt-tuhawaiki/north-ridge", "name": "North Ridge", "grade": null, "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "Follow a broad ridge to the summit." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "John Cocks, Richard Whinham, Al Smith, Pete Glasson, January 1972" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/darrans/darran-mountains/mt-tuhawaiki/west-ridge", "name": "West Ridge", "grade": null, "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "First climbed from the Te Puoho via the couloir on Taiaroa and traversing show slopes to the ridge." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "A M Green, Jim Milne, Richard Stewart, January 1959" } ], "places": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/darrans/darran-mountains/mt-tuhawaiki/rothorn", "name": "Rothorn", "altitude": "1850m", "access": null, "description": "The stark, sharp pinnacle at the end of Tuhawaiki's north buttress. Excellent rock.", "latlng": null, "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/fiordland/darran-mountains/mt-tuhawaiki/rothorn/left-arete", "name": "Left Arete", "grade": "19,I", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": "200m", "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": "I", "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": "50m", "bolts": null, "trad": true, "ewbank": "19", "description": "The grey corner left of the overhangs." }, { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": "50m", "bolts": null, "trad": true, "ewbank": "19", "description": "Boldly over the round lip and up." }, { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": "50m", "bolts": null, "trad": true, "ewbank": "19", "description": "Steep jamming right on the arete." }, { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": "50m", "bolts": null, "trad": true, "ewbank": "19", "description": "Right onto the slab then wend back up onto the crest." } ], "quality": 3, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": true, "description": null, "ascent": "John McCallum, James Spiers, Richard Thomson, February 2013" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/fiordland/darran-mountains/mt-tuhawaiki/rothorn/guts", "name": "Up the Guts", "grade": "22", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": "22", "description": "details and topo to follow" } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": "P1 (22)\nP2 (19)\nP3 (19)\nP4 (22)\nP5 (19)", "ascent": "Greg Jack, Jean Tompkins, Troy Mattingley. February 2014" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/fiordland/darran-mountains/mt-tuhawaiki/rothorn/mr-mercedes", "name": "Mr Mercedes", "grade": "19,I", "topo_ref": null, "image": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/route/P2160260-Edit_0.jpg?itok=HJJFj05_", "images": [ { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/route/P2160260-Edit_0.jpg?itok=HJJFj05_", "height": "244", "width": "325" } ], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": "I", "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": true, "ewbank": "19", "description": "Two long pitches on good rock that link all the rad features on this wee buttress. Once on ridge simul-climb / scramble to the summit for the glory. Easy scramble off." } ], "quality": 2, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": true, "description": null, "ascent": "Zac Orme, Troy Mattingley Feb 2015" } ], "places": [], "image": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/wide/public/image/Rothorn.jpg?itok=BuDgMzEd", "images": [ { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/wide/public/image/Rothorn.jpg?itok=BuDgMzEd", "height": "900", "width": "720" } ] } ], "image": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/wide/public/image/Darrans-Tuhawaiki-2016.jpeg?itok=-dwdK86G", "images": [ { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/wide/public/image/Darrans-Tuhawaiki-2016.jpeg?itok=-dwdK86G", "height": "818", "width": "1090" } ] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aspiring/main-divide/mt-joffre": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aspiring/main-divide/mt-joffre", "name": "Mt Joffre", "altitude": "2091m", "access": null, "description": null, "latlng": [ "-44.403318", "168.696515" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aspiring/main-divide/mt-joffre/bonar-glacier", "name": "From Bonar Glacier", "grade": "I,1", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": "0m", "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": "I", "mtcook": "1", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "" } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": "0", "natural_pro": false, "description": "Half an hour\u2019s easy rock scramble up any convenient route.", "ascent": "Frank Wright and party, December 1914" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aspiring/main-divide/mt-joffre/cannibalism-karaoke", "name": "From Cannibalism to Karaoke", "grade": "16,III,4", "topo_ref": "4", "image": null, "images": [], "length": "0m", "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": "III", "mtcook": "4", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": "16", "description": null } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": "0", "natural_pro": false, "description": "From the head of the Matukituki Valley the South Face of Joffre is more involved than a half hour scramble. From near Scotts Bivvy head up to the face which is on the true right of the Breakaway. A steep spur just to the right of the avalanche gut carved by the Breakaway gives easy access to the face. The first ascent took a line which starts off a large patch of snow under an overhanging wall. Then taking the line of least resistance, climbed on a rising traverse which took in a series of ledges to come out near the top of the true right of the large gully that runs on a diagonal from the base of the face to the summit.\nThere are approximately 10 pitches and, of these, half are good rock. It would be possible to construct a more pleasant line by the use of bolts and taking a more direct line to the summit.\nAfter topping out on the first ascent, to a perfect summers evening, the two climbers wandered down the Bonar to Colin Todd Hut in running shoes. Like a couple of street kids they threw themselves on the mercy of the residents and passed a pleasant night with borrowed food and a blanket. Camaraderie and hospitality are still alive and well in the hills\u2014may it always be so.\nThe slopes above the face are subject to avalanches.", "ascent": "Geoff Ellis, Allan Uren, January 1999" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aspiring/main-divide/mt-joffre/antics-south-face", "name": "Antics (South Face)", "grade": "5,III,WI4", "topo_ref": null, "image": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/routes/IMG_3181.JPG?itok=svc9ayun", "images": [ { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/routes/IMG_3181.JPG?itok=svc9ayun", "height": "244", "width": "325" } ], "length": "450m", "pitches": [ { "alpine": "5", "commitment": "III", "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": "WI4", "mixed": null, "length": "450m", "bolts": null, "trad": true, "ewbank": null, "description": "P1 65 m crux WI4 start up steep snow and ice moving through vertical steps. Belays on rock at left available\r\nP2 65 m WI3 steep steps with occasional respite, belay near the base of a pillar of good ice on the left\r\nP3 70 m crux WI4 climb a steep vertical pillar. Some gentler 65 snow before another vertical pillar that on during the first recorded ascent had formed slightly beyond vertical snice. Take options for protection when you get them. Great belay below rock roof (rock belay possible)\r\nP4 70 m WI3 short steep step then long 60 degree snow slope\r\nP5 70 m WI3 remainder of snow slope then short steep step\r\nP6 70 m WI2 short steep step then long 50 degree snow slope\r\nP7 60 m 50 degree snow slope to exit. A cornice may require tunnelling" } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": "0", "natural_pro": true, "description": "A great climb on a prominent snow / ice line visible from near the Breakaway. Approach by dropping down snowslopes from the Breakaway, turning a small rocky spur, and a gaining an easy approach slope to the climb. Alternatively, the climb can easily be accessed by following a dry creekbed just beyond Scotts Biv to where a small promontory overlooks the debris zone from serac avalanches. Gain some height, run the exposed gauntlet at a narrowing and cross over to the true right of the drainage where slopes (exposed to snow avalanche but not serac fall) can be followed to the route. Abseil the route or easy walk off to the Bonar. Attempted by Dave Hiddleston and Anna Gillooly in the 1990s, but Dave took a lead fall and the team retreated (Nick Cradock pers. comm. 2020)", "ascent": "Ruari Macfarlane, Maddy Whittaker, Jaz Morris, July 2020" } ], "places": [], "image": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/wide/public/image/Joffre_South_fmt.jpeg?itok=sIAFFCSR", "images": [ { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/wide/public/image/Joffre_South_fmt.jpeg?itok=sIAFFCSR", "height": "165", "width": "320" } ] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/canterbury-westland-alps/main-divide/mystery-pk": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/canterbury-westland-alps/main-divide/mystery-pk", "name": "Mystery Pk", "altitude": "2090m", "access": null, "description": null, "latlng": [ "-43.066317", "171.189737" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/canterbury-westland-alps/main-divide/mystery-pk/main-divide-ridges", "name": "Main Divide Ridges", "grade": null, "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "Once on the Main Divide, travel is straightforward." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Roger Chester, Alan Willis, John Pascoe, December 1930" } ], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/canterbury/agassiz-range/comyns-pk": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/canterbury/agassiz-range/comyns-pk", "name": "Comyns Pk", "altitude": "2090m", "access": null, "description": "Above West Mathias River.", "latlng": [ "-43.118966", "171.108541" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/canterbury/agassiz-range/comyns-pk/north-ridge", "name": "North Ridge", "grade": null, "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "A straightforward climb, loose in places." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Roger Chester, John Pascoe, December 1930" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/canterbury/agassiz-range/comyns-pk/east-ridge", "name": "East Ridge", "grade": null, "topo_ref": "ER", "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "The East Ridge was originally reached from Canyon Creek and is a straightforward climb to\r\nthe top, loose in places." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Roger Chester, John Pascoe, December 1930" } ], "places": [], "image": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/wide/public/image/Comyns.png?itok=EOcEUTEE", "images": [ { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/wide/public/image/Comyns.png?itok=EOcEUTEE", "height": "586", "width": "900" } ] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki-tai-poutini/godley-river/gordon-pk": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki-tai-poutini/godley-river/gordon-pk", "name": "Gordon Pk", "altitude": "2090m", "access": null, "description": "On the ridge SW of Mt Frances", "latlng": [ "-43.454259", "170.491229" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki-tai-poutini/godley-river/gordon-pk/unnamed", "name": "Unnamed", "grade": null, "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "Climb to the col above of the Grey Glacier and then up snow slopes to the summit. Alternatively, climb directly from below the Grey Glacier icefall. The peak has also been climbed from the Maud Glacier, using the south-east ridge (first ascent)." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": null }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki-tai-poutini/godley-river/gordon-pk/unnamed-0", "name": "Unnamed", "grade": null, "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "Starting from near the junction of the Maud and Grey Glaciers ascend tussock slopes and a south-east rock face." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Edgar Williams, Will Kennedy, T A Fletcher, Dec 1917" } ], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/%C5%8Dhau-landsborough/huxley-range/pt-2090": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/%C5%8Dhau-landsborough/huxley-range/pt-2090", "name": "Pt 2090", "altitude": "2090m", "access": null, "description": null, "latlng": [ "-44.0457", "169.7011" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/%C5%8Dhau-landsborough/huxley-range/pt-2090/south-east-ridge", "name": "South East Ridge", "grade": "2", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "2", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": null } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": "From the upper South Huxley follow the south east ridge to the summit.", "ascent": "Peter Barker, John Chivers, Bob Cunningham December 1959" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/%C5%8Dhau-landsborough/huxley-range/pt-2090/south-west-face", "name": "South West Face", "grade": null, "topo_ref": null, "image": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/route/p2090.jpg?itok=mzR9xhys", "images": [ { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/route/p2090.jpg?itok=mzR9xhys", "height": "301", "width": "325" } ], "length": null, "pitches": [], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": "The face is broken into two tiers separated by a 200m wide scree terrace. The\nlower tier is 3 pitches in length plus scrambling (crux grade 14) and the\nupper tier is 5 pitches plus scrambling (crux 16-17). The rock was variable\nin quality, but it is possible to pick a route which avoids the dark\nbrown/black choss. The good rock on the steep upper tier was mostly light\ngrey with vertical shallow seams and just enough protection. Descent was by\nthe loose knife-edged ridge to the south east.", "ascent": "Tony Clarke, Hadley Slade-Jones, February 2008" } ], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/westland/butler-range/mt-barrowman": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/westland/butler-range/mt-barrowman", "name": "Mt Barrowman", "altitude": "2089m", "access": null, "description": "na", "latlng": [ "-43.455972", "170.414085" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/westland/butler-range/mt-barrowman/original-route", "name": "Original Route", "grade": "1", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "1", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "This rock peak can be climbed up extensive slabs from the stream below Lake Barrowman. Snow\r\non the slabs can be a significant avalanche hazard." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Doug Apperley, Merle Sweney, Bill Barrowman, January 1938" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/westland/butler-range/mt-barrowman/west-face", "name": "West Face", "grade": null, "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "A route on slabs from Barrowman Stream." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Roger Coombs, 1974" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/westland/butler-range/mt-barrowman/south-east-ridge", "name": "South East Ridge", "grade": "2", "topo_ref": "SER", "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "2", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "From the South Butler Valley, head straight up a snow gully then rock east of Mt Barrowman\r\ntowards a col immediately south-east of Mt Barrowman. The last part to the col is difficult\r\n(slabs). Above, about five pitches (the first exposed and on loose rock) lead up the ridge to the\r\nsummit." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Mike Andrews, Ross Eden, 1 February 1979" } ], "places": [], "image": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/wide/public/image/SthButler_3.png?itok=xfCop_jZ", "images": [ { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/wide/public/image/SthButler_3.png?itok=xfCop_jZ", "height": "476", "width": "900" } ] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/tent-peak": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/tent-peak", "name": "Tent Pk", "altitude": "2089m", "access": null, "description": "Young Range", "latlng": [ "-44.15774983", "169.46848023" ], "routes": [], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/c58dhau-landsborough/paringa-moeraki-mountains/weary-summit": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/c58dhau-landsborough/paringa-moeraki-mountains/weary-summit", "name": "Weary Summit", "altitude": "2089m", "access": null, "description": null, "latlng": [ "-43.86814613", "169.45444999" ], "routes": [], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/mt-st-bathans": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/mt-st-bathans", "name": "Mt St Bathans", "altitude": "2088m", "access": null, "description": "Saint Bathans Range", "latlng": [ "-44.73384137", "169.76249169" ], "routes": [], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/canterbury-westland-alps/cabot-ridge/mt-cabot": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/canterbury-westland-alps/cabot-ridge/mt-cabot", "name": "Mt Cabot", "altitude": "2088m", "access": null, "description": null, "latlng": [ "-42.9961556", "171.27919194" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/canterbury/cabot-ridge/mt-cabot/north-ridge", "name": "North Ridge", "grade": null, "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "The North Ridge can be reached via a steep hike from the upper Griffiths Stream to snow slopes\r\nimmediately south of Mt Scott." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": null }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/canterbury/cabot-ridge/mt-cabot/gifford-stream", "name": "From Gifford Stream", "grade": null, "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "Take the long spur from the valley floor to a narrow ridge of loose rock. Veer right, cross the\r\nlower glacier and then follow steep rock to the higher glacier and finally rotten rock to the top." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "A G Bogle, C E Taylor, W Challis, April 1936" } ], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/godley-peak": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/godley-peak", "name": "Godley Pk", "altitude": "2087m", "access": null, "description": null, "latlng": [ "-43.36006067", "171.28988401" ], "routes": [], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/tobacco-top": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/tobacco-top", "name": "Tobacco Top", "altitude": "2087m", "access": null, "description": "Tobacco Range", "latlng": [ "-43.07821603", "171.41198538" ], "routes": [], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/fiordland/darran-mountains/adelaide-pk": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/fiordland/darran-mountains/adelaide-pk", "name": "Adelaide Pk", "altitude": "2086m", "access": "From Phil\u2019s Bivvy\nFrom Phil's Bivvy drop down and across the basin towards the main waterfall below the North Buttress of Sabre, which usually has a large avalanche cone at its base. Cross the stream 100m down from the foot of the waterfall to slabs on the north side, climbing these to a narrow ledge leading left, up and across a grassy gut to a short rock slab. At the top go left to a short waterfall and then diagonally right up a rock ramp to a large terrace. Take the second gully at the right-hand end to the foot of the North Buttress, then continue to Sabre Adelaide Col, or head right over rock and snow to the Marian Sabre Col.\nThe col north of Adelaide gives a route to the Gunn Basin and the now overgrown track down to the Hollyford Valley.", "description": "Darran Mountains", "latlng": [ "-44.746018", "168.058578" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/fiordland/darran-mountains/adelaide-pk/north-ridge", "name": "North Ridge", "grade": null, "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "An easy route up the ridge." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Gerry Hall-Jones, Rod Ryan, Bryce Wood, Dec 1953." }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/fiordland/darran-mountains/adelaide-pk/west-face", "name": "West Face", "grade": "17", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": true, "ewbank": "17", "description": "A line up the middle of the face trending right to exit fairly close to the summit on the Adelaide Sabre Col side. Crux on the first pitch.\r\nThe party descended the ridge to the Adelaide Sabre Col." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": true, "description": null, "ascent": "Hugh Logan, Ian Whitehouse, 1975." }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/fiordland/darran-mountains/adelaide-pk/south-west-ridge", "name": "South West Ridge", "grade": null, "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Jim Milne, Richard Stewart, A M Greet, Jan 1959." } ], "places": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/fiordland/darran-mountains/adelaide/north-east-face", "name": "North East Face", "altitude": null, "access": "via slabs at the head of the Caples Valley", "description": "NE Face", "latlng": null, "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/fiordland/darran-mountains/adelaide/north-east-face/herm-score", "name": "Herm Score", "grade": "18", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": true, "ewbank": "18", "description": "9 pitches. Begins on blank bulges below the obvious rightwards slanting corner system, the crux is low down and poorly protected. Follow the corner system to the ridge then continue to summit." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": true, "description": null, "ascent": "Jo Kippax, Sean Waters, Dec 1992." }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/fiordland/darran-mountains/adelaide/north-east-face/womble-weeny-wall", "name": "A Womble on the Weeny Wall", "grade": "12", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": true, "ewbank": "12", "description": "On the northern side of the lower valley below the moraine wall bivvy sites.\r\nThe obvious water groove." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": true, "description": null, "ascent": "Jo Kippax, Sean Waters, Dec 1992." } ], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] } ], "image": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/wide/public/image/D189_0.jpg?itok=kLcmmK6i", "images": [ { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/wide/public/image/D189_0.jpg?itok=kLcmmK6i", "height": "369", "width": "428" }, { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/image/D92.jpg?itok=41MPLWbq", "height": "325", "width": "273" } ] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/mt-catherine": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/mt-catherine", "name": "Mt Catherine", "altitude": "2085m", "access": null, "description": null, "latlng": [ "-43.42722297", "171.26575999" ], "routes": [], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/main-divide-of-the-southern-alps/mt-harrison": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/main-divide-of-the-southern-alps/mt-harrison", "name": "Mt Harrison", "altitude": "2085m", "access": null, "description": null, "latlng": [ "-43.06801", "171.177549" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/main-divide-of-the-southern-alps/mt-harrison/main-divide-ridges", "name": "Main Divide Ridges", "grade": null, "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "Once on the Main Divide, travel is straightforward." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Roger Chester, Alan Willis, John Pascoe, December 1930" } ], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/darrans/darran-mountains/mt-makere": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/darrans/darran-mountains/mt-makere", "name": "Mt Makere", "altitude": "2084m", "access": null, "description": "The South Face of Mt Makere has three outstanding rock climbs and potential for more. Incorrectly labelled as Waitiri on old topomaps.", "latlng": [ "-44.64365102", "168.02258492" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/darrans/darran-mountains/mt-makere/south-ridge", "name": "South Ridge", "grade": null, "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": "0m", "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "The South Ridge was first reached by a traverse from the summit of Waitiri." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": "0", "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Bill Gordon, Ralph Miller, December 1955" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/darrans/darran-mountains/mt-makere/its-all-right", "name": "It\u2019s All Right?", "grade": "21,III", "topo_ref": "1", "image": null, "images": [], "length": "0m", "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": "III", "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": true, "ewbank": "21", "description": null } ], "quality": 3, "bolts": "0", "natural_pro": true, "description": "Starting off a wee buttress at the front of the face, climb directly, passing the right-hand end of an obvious overhanging band. The route exits just east of the summit. Nine or ten pitches.", "ascent": "Rene Renshaw, Richard Turner, Dave Vass, February 2002" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/darrans/darran-mountains/mt-makere/hornley-arete", "name": "Hornley Arete", "grade": "21,III", "topo_ref": "2", "image": null, "images": [], "length": "350m", "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": "III", "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": "350m", "bolts": null, "trad": true, "ewbank": "21", "description": null } ], "quality": 2, "bolts": "0", "natural_pro": true, "description": "Traverse from the left onto the sensational arete. Eight pitches, 350m, abseil descent (wires in place, plus slings).", "ascent": "Dave Vass, Rich Turner, Rich Thomson, February 2008" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/darrans/darran-mountains/mt-makere/reise-durch-den-wahnsinn", "name": "Reise durch den Wahnsinn", "grade": "21", "topo_ref": "3", "image": null, "images": [], "length": "350m", "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": "350m", "bolts": null, "trad": true, "ewbank": "21", "description": null } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": "0", "natural_pro": true, "description": "The big corner on the right end of the face. Ten pitches.", "ascent": "Georg Pollinger, Toni Baumgartner, 2014" } ], "places": [], "image": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/wide/public/2023-10/Mt%20Makere%2C%20Darrans%2C%202010.jpg?itok=TBOk0l6D", "images": [ { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/wide/public/2023-10/Mt%20Makere%2C%20Darrans%2C%202010.jpg?itok=TBOk0l6D", "height": "818", "width": "1090" } ] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/canterbury-westland-alps/sawtooth-ridge/pt-2084": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/canterbury-westland-alps/sawtooth-ridge/pt-2084", "name": "Pt 2084", "altitude": "2084m", "access": null, "description": "Easily traversed. Also part of the access route from Top Tuke Hut to Ivory Lake.", "latlng": [ "-43.117463", "170.914736" ], "routes": [], "places": [], "image": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/wide/public/image/p250_1.png?itok=EQmBqHaU", "images": [ { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/wide/public/image/p250_1.png?itok=EQmBqHaU", "height": "536", "width": "900" } ] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki/mt-cook-range/mt-kinsey": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki/mt-cook-range/mt-kinsey", "name": "Mt Kinsey", "altitude": "2083m", "access": null, "description": "1st ascent, Peter Graham, Henrik Sillem, Feb 1906.", "latlng": [ "-43.75714689", "170.19882202" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki/mt-cook-range/mt-kinsey/husky-flat", "name": "From Husky Flat", "grade": null, "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "Can all be climbed easily from the Tasman Valley. Mts Mabel and Rosa provide pleasant climbing up the valley above Husky Flat, but beware of avalanches in spring and early summer." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": null } ], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/canterbury-westland-alps/main-divide/mungo-pk": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/canterbury-westland-alps/main-divide/mungo-pk", "name": "Mungo Pk", "altitude": "2083m", "access": null, "description": null, "latlng": [ "-43.058729", "171.221495" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/canterbury-westland-alps/main-divide/mungo-pk/gibson-stream", "name": "From Gibson Stream", "grade": null, "topo_ref": "GS", "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "From Gibson Stream, climb through scree and steep tussock east of the bluffs and waterfall\r\ndraining the basin below Mt Treadwell. From this basin several options exist to the summit." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": null }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/canterbury-westland-alps/main-divide/mungo-pk/north-ridge", "name": "North Ridge", "grade": null, "topo_ref": "NR", "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "A straightforward climb from Mungo Pass." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": null } ], "places": [], "image": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/wide/public/image/Mungo.png?itok=yOEd5990", "images": [ { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/wide/public/image/Mungo.png?itok=yOEd5990", "height": "590", "width": "900" }, { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/image/p266.png?itok=nxw4HVHT", "height": "259", "width": "325" } ] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/nelson-lakes-kaikc58dura/acherone28093waihopai-mountains/pt-2082": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/nelson-lakes-kaikc58dura/acherone28093waihopai-mountains/pt-2082", "name": "Pt 2082", "altitude": "2082m", "access": null, "description": null, "latlng": [ "-42.01257305", "173.07249351" ], "routes": [], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/canterbury-westland-alps/sawtooth-ridge/nichin-pk": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/canterbury-westland-alps/sawtooth-ridge/nichin-pk", "name": "Nichin Pk", "altitude": "2081m", "access": null, "description": "Point 2081 metres", "latlng": [ "-43.120094", "170.921516" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/canterbury-westland-alps/sawtooth-ridge/nichin-pk/cirque-traverse", "name": "Cirque Traverse", "grade": "2-", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "2-", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "Head up over Pts 1870 and 2084 metres, then climb the narrow and exposed ridge south-east\r\non good rock. Slabs lead up to the low peak and the crux lies between the low and high peaks.\r\nContinue along the ridge, now easy travel on rubble, and down to the lake." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Dave Norton, Al Moore, January 1980" } ], "places": [], "image": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/wide/public/image/p250_0.png?itok=Fxd5kCz5", "images": [ { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/wide/public/image/p250_0.png?itok=Fxd5kCz5", "height": "536", "width": "900" } ] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aspiring/main-divide/mt-wray": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aspiring/main-divide/mt-wray", "name": "Mt Wray", "altitude": "2080m", "access": null, "description": null, "latlng": [ "-44.0608", "169.5027" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/%C5%8Dhau-landsborough/main-divide/mt-wray/west-slopes", "name": "West Slopes", "grade": "2-", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "2-", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": null } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": "From near the head of Long Flat Creek, strike through the bush to reach the\nwestern snowslopes and plod on to the summit.", "ascent": "Jack Aitken, Jack Gillespie, Alma Mitchell, M.A.Sutherland, January 1943" } ], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/main-divide-of-the-southern-alps/mt-young": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/main-divide-of-the-southern-alps/mt-young", "name": "Mt Young", "altitude": "2080m", "access": null, "description": null, "latlng": [ "-43.125106", "171.068544" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/main-divide-of-the-southern-alps/mt-young/pt-1803-metres", "name": "Via Pt 1803 metres", "grade": "1", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "1", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "The lower section of the creek draining the south side of Mt Split Open is steeply gorged and\r\nimpassable. From Kea Pass, sidle across relatively flat ground above the gorge (true left) and\r\nbelow the bluffs of Mt Split Open to scree and rock slabs leading to a small snow basin. Above\r\nPt 1803 metres, shingle basins to the east provide easy travel, skirting around pinnacles on the\r\nDivide. Beyond, at an easily accessible col, regain the Main Divide at about 2000 metres. Gravel\r\nleads to the summit." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "P Willis, April 1939" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/main-divide-of-the-southern-alps/mt-young/main-divide-south", "name": "Main Divide from the South", "grade": null, "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "Snow and gravel slopes from the west lead easily to the Divide and the summit" } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": null } ], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/main-divide-of-the-southern-alps/mt-carl": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/main-divide-of-the-southern-alps/mt-carl", "name": "Mt Carl", "altitude": "2080m", "access": null, "description": null, "latlng": [ "-43.10443", "171.095667" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/main-divide-of-the-southern-alps/mt-carl/south-west-ridge", "name": "South West Ridge", "grade": "1", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "1", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "From Kea Pass the South West Ridge is a straightforward climb, negotiating a rock step on the\r\nnorth side of the ridge." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": null }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/main-divide-of-the-southern-alps/mt-carl/north-ridge", "name": "North Ridge", "grade": "1", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "1", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "A straightforward ridge linking Mt Carl with Mt Frieda, first climbed on a traverse of the range." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Roger Chester, December 1930" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/main-divide-of-the-southern-alps/mt-carl/south-east-ridge", "name": "South East Ridge", "grade": "1", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "1", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "This ridge comprises very loose rock, which is difficult to negotiate unless covered with consolidated\r\nsnow. A lack of snow will increase the grade." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Roger Chester, December 1930" } ], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/c58dhau-landsborough/paringa-moeraki-mountains/shattered-pk": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/c58dhau-landsborough/paringa-moeraki-mountains/shattered-pk", "name": "Shattered Pk", "altitude": "2080m", "access": null, "description": null, "latlng": [ "-43.89250141", "169.45549784" ], "routes": [], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/c58dhau-landsborough/bannock-brae-range/mt-butzbach": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/c58dhau-landsborough/bannock-brae-range/mt-butzbach", "name": "Mt Butzbach", "altitude": "2080m", "access": null, "description": null, "latlng": [ "-43.722162", "169.755152" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/c58dhau-landsborough/bannock-brae-range/mt-butzbach/north-ridge", "name": "North Ridge", "grade": "1+,II", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": "0m", "pitches": [ { "alpine": "1+", "commitment": "II", "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": null } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": "0", "natural_pro": false, "description": "Make your way up the south branch of Misty Creek. Cut out to the north through scrubby bluffs at 1100m onto a broad spur which leads to the north ridge and the summit.", "ascent": "Nina Dickerhof, James Thornton (descended), February 2018" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/c58dhau-landsborough/bannock-brae-range/mt-butzbach/uaroa-creek", "name": "From Uaroa Creek", "grade": "1+,II", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": "0m", "pitches": [ { "alpine": "1+", "commitment": "II", "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": null } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": "0", "natural_pro": false, "description": "Ascend the large gully upstream of Uaroa Creek to the broad tussock spur and the col south-esat of the summit. Either climb the rock ar\u00eate of the south-east ridge or traverse snow slopes on the Mak\u0101whio side around to the north ridge.", "ascent": "Marie Byles, Marjorie Edgar-Jones, Harry Ayres, Frank Alack, January 1935" } ], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/c58dhau-landsborough/bare-rocky-range/mcgloin-pk": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/c58dhau-landsborough/bare-rocky-range/mcgloin-pk", "name": "McGloin Pk", "altitude": "2079m", "access": null, "description": null, "latlng": [ "-43.686446", "169.79907291" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/mcgloin-peak/north-west-ridge", "name": "North West Ridge", "grade": "3+,IV", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": "0m", "pitches": [ { "alpine": "3+", "commitment": "IV", "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": null } ], "quality": 1, "bolts": "0", "natural_pro": false, "description": "From the summit of Mt Morse negotiate the gendarme-infested razorback to the summit.", "ascent": "Trevor McCann, Maurie Bishop, March 1952" } ], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/mt-macfarlane-se": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/mt-macfarlane-se", "name": "Pt 2077", "altitude": "2077m", "access": null, "description": null, "latlng": [ "-43.92628851", "169.38369558" ], "routes": [], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/otago/huxley-range/leaning-mount": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/otago/huxley-range/leaning-mount", "name": "Leaning Mount", "altitude": "2077m", "access": null, "description": "Leaning Mount is on the Huxley Range 30km south of Mt Huxley. It can be accessed in 6-7 hours from the Ahuriri valley. From the carpark near the locked gate in the Ahuriri valley4 km beyond Birchwod Station, cross the eastern part of the Huxley range, and drop down into the Dingle Burn. Follow the Dingle Burn downstream for 2.5 km to a junction with a side stream and walk up that side valley to a campsite near the south face of Leaning Mount.", "latlng": [ "-44.2705343586", "169.517618818" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/otago/huxley-range/leaning-mount/waka-jumping", "name": "Waka Jumping", "grade": "13", "topo_ref": null, "image": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/route/leaningm2.jpg?itok=cGG0AnTA", "images": [ { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/route/leaningm2.jpg?itok=cGG0AnTA", "height": "200", "width": "319" } ], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": true, "ewbank": "13", "description": null } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": true, "description": "Begin from snowfield near the centre of the south face, angling rightward. Cross a minor snow shute, and climb past the TV slab. Continue up the narrowing ramp to reach the summit ridge. 13 pitches of climbing up to grade 13, but little protection available. Descent by abseil off the waka taua, then over the low summit and down the east ridge.", "ascent": "Ross Cullen, Bill McLeod, December 2002" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/otago/huxley-range/leaning-mount/north-east-face", "name": "North East Face", "grade": "1", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "1", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": null } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": "Approach from the Dingle Burn branch to the north of Leaning Mount. Meander\nup scrub and scree slopes heading in the general direction of the peak. The\nfinal, short section of the route above the scree could be described as a\nsteep, exposed scramble up thoroughly rotten and unattractive rock. It is\nstraightforward for confident rock climbers but might be uncomfortable for\nthose who are not.", "ascent": "Unknown but climbed by Martin Hawes, Derek Chinn, Mike Perry 2012" } ], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aspiring/barrier-range/mcbride-pks": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aspiring/barrier-range/mcbride-pks", "name": "McBride Pks", "altitude": "2076m", "access": null, "description": "The peaks can be reached from Fohn Saddle via Brenda Peak and the top or the middle neve, or the Merkl Glacier. The summit ridge can be traversed for most of its length.", "latlng": [ "-44.5251", "168.3206" ], "routes": [], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/nelson-lakes/travers-range/mt-angelus": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/nelson-lakes/travers-range/mt-angelus", "name": "Mt Angelus", "altitude": "2075m", "access": null, "description": "Named by Stanton and Dumbleton, after they climbed it on an Easter evening.", "latlng": [ "-41.9096", "172.7438" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/nelson-lakes/travers-range/mt-angelus/north-ridge", "name": "North Ridge", "grade": "1", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": "1", "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "From Angelus Hut, descend to Hinapouri Tarn and cross its mouth or waist. The North Ridge is an easy scramble in summer, but in winter is often icy towards the top." } ], "quality": 1, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": null }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/nelson-lakes/travers-range/mt-angelus/sunset-saddle", "name": "Sunset Saddle", "grade": "1", "topo_ref": "B", "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": "1", "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "Sidle Hinapouri Tarn high on the west then continue up scree and boulders to Sunset Saddle. An easy ridge leads to the summit." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "J Stanton, L J Dumbleton, April 1947" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/nelson-lakes/travers-range/mt-angelus/angelus-ridge", "name": "Angelus Ridge", "grade": "2", "topo_ref": "A", "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": "2", "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "Climb the obvious ridge from the junction of Hukere Stream with the Travers River. The upper ridge can also be gained just west of Pk 2037m, via a large scree gully 2.5km up Hukere Stream (map ref. M29/913228). It's pleasant ridge travelling (summer or winter), then a scree descent and traverse to a col overlooking the Hopeless Creek headwaters. The ridge from the col to Mt Angelus is exposed and has notches and pinnacles of loose rock which require careful negotiation. A good summer route." } ], "quality": 1, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": null } ], "places": [], "image": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/wide/public/image/Screen%20shot%202011-06-29%20at%205.57.04%20PM_0.jpg?itok=hoMthP6n", "images": [ { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/wide/public/image/Screen%20shot%202011-06-29%20at%205.57.04%20PM_0.jpg?itok=hoMthP6n", "height": "466", "width": "583" }, { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/image/Screen%20shot%202011-06-29%20at%205.58.12%20PM.jpg?itok=6GsQgNDG", "height": "170", "width": "325" } ] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/%C5%8Dhau-landsborough/elcho%E2%80%93huxley-mountains/pt-2074": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/%C5%8Dhau-landsborough/elcho%E2%80%93huxley-mountains/pt-2074", "name": "Pt 2074", "altitude": "2074m", "access": "From the North Huxley Valley", "description": "Pk 2074 is southeast of Mt Fraser.", "latlng": [ "-43.938636", "169.765291" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/%C5%8Dhau-landsborough/elcho%E2%80%93huxley-mountains/pt-2074/aldous", "name": "Aldous", "grade": "16", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": "16", "description": "The route starts up the centre of the face, taking a line up weathered slabs before traversing and launching up a large right-tending buttress. At 1700m, the route cuts out left above a snowpatch and finishes up a rib to gain the ridge just below the summit proper." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Rob Frost and Ben Dare, 2012" } ], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/mt-barry": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/mt-barry", "name": "Mt Barry", "altitude": "2074m", "access": null, "description": null, "latlng": [ "-43.17735653", "170.81888954" ], "routes": [], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/westland/lord-range/mt-lord": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/westland/lord-range/mt-lord", "name": "Mt Lord", "altitude": "2072m", "access": null, "description": "Several parties have used the two routes to cross between Vane Stream & Strachan Pass.", "latlng": [ "-43.245642", "170.87055" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/westland/lord-range/mt-lord/vane-stream", "name": "From Vane Stream", "grade": "1-", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "A straight forward scramble mostly on rock and scree. The approach from the upper Hazard valley is probably easiest." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": null }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/westland/lord-range/mt-lord/strachan-pass", "name": "From Strachan Pass", "grade": "1+", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "1+", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "Head directly north from the saddle up snowslopes then scree and scramble up small bluffs to the Main Divide at J34 376713. Several transalpine parties have used these two routes on Mt Lord to cross from the Vane to Strachan Pass." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": null } ], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/james-peak": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/james-peak", "name": "James Pk", "altitude": "2072m", "access": null, "description": null, "latlng": [ "-45.24701028", "168.84527706" ], "routes": [], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/%C5%8Dhau-landsborough/elcho%E2%80%93huxley-mountains/pt-2072": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/%C5%8Dhau-landsborough/elcho%E2%80%93huxley-mountains/pt-2072", "name": "Pt 2072", "altitude": "2072m", "access": null, "description": null, "latlng": [ "-43.9615650496", "169.772795631" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/%C5%8Dhau-landsborough/elcho%E2%80%93huxley-mountains/pt-2072/matinee", "name": "Matinee", "grade": null, "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": "In the summer 2005, James Edwards and Oliver Metherell made the first\nrecorded ascent of Peak 2072m, from the North Branch of the Huxley River. The\nroute is 500m high.", "ascent": "James Edwards and Oliver Metherell Summer 2005" } ], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/upper-peak": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/upper-peak", "name": "Upper Pk", "altitude": "2072m", "access": null, "description": null, "latlng": [ "-44.7407965", "168.26529043" ], "routes": [], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/c58dhau-landsborough/barrier-range/pt-2070": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/c58dhau-landsborough/barrier-range/pt-2070", "name": "Pt 2070", "altitude": "2070m", "access": null, "description": null, "latlng": [ "-44.10709683944", "169.76880202491" ], "routes": [], "places": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/%C5%8Dhau-landsborough/barrier-range/pt-2070/grasshopper-wall", "name": "Grasshopper Wall", "altitude": null, "access": null, "description": "Forty minutes upstream of the South Temple hut cross to the true left of stream and begin ascending the small side stream toward 2070m. 400 m after leaving the South Temple climb onto the spur on the true right and ascend the spur through tussock and Dracophyllum until the continuous scree band is reached. Traverse north for 30 minutes, crossing one gully to reach the grassy basin at 1400m with small waterfall nearby. Four to five hours from roadend to bivi site. 30 minute climb from bivi site to the nearest part of the wall and 90 minutes to the north end.", "latlng": null, "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/%C5%8Dhau-landsborough/barrier-range/pt-2070/grasshopper-wall/hitting-wall", "name": "Hitting The Wall", "grade": "15", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": "15", "description": null } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": "Climb the series of prominent ascending buttresses at north end of the wall. Start at the toe of the first buttress and climb three shortish pitches on excellent quartz striped rock, about grade 12. Walk across to next buttress and continue climbing for two pitches to top of final buttress. Grade 15 final moves at top can be reversed, then descend down gully on north side.", "ascent": "Ross Cullen, Geoff Gabites, January 2006" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/%C5%8Dhau-landsborough/barrier-range/pt-2070/grasshopper-wall/knees", "name": "Knees Up", "grade": "16", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": "16", "description": null } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": "Ascend the chimney shaped buttress on left side of face. Begin by climbing the shallow corner in centre of buttress on clean, solid rock, grade 16. First four pitches more taxing than are later pitches. The buttress narrows at the top and the final few metres can be bypassed on the left. Nine pitches at a pleasant angle, on mainly good rock.", "ascent": "Ross Cullen, Bill McLeod, March 2005" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/%C5%8Dhau-landsborough/barrier-range/pt-2070/grasshopper-wall/diamond", "name": "Diamond", "grade": "15", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": "15", "description": null } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": "Commence by climbing the pedestal 30 metres to the north of the central crack in the face. Climb directly towards the summit ridge passing on left of groove at mid-height and on left of block near summit ridge. Nine pitches of excellent climbing on quartz veined rock. Traverse to the north over 2070m then descend easy slopes. Crux grade 15 in the middle of the climb.", "ascent": "Ross Cullen, Bill McLeod, January 2004" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/%C5%8Dhau-landsborough/barrier-range/pt-2070/grasshopper-wall/slice-heaven", "name": "Slice of Heaven", "grade": "16", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": "16", "description": null } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": "An excellent four pitch climb on the steep reddish upper pillar. Ascend the narrow gully between the two pillars to gain access. Climb centre of the face for two pitches then pass the bulging nose on its right side. Grade 16. Continue straight up. Nice. An easy 20m scramble to reach a straightforward north-facing scree gully descent.", "ascent": "Ross Cullen, Bill McLeod, November 2005" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/%C5%8Dhau-landsborough/barrier-range/pt-2070/grasshopper-wall/flying-jib", "name": "Flying Jib", "grade": "14", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": "14", "description": null } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": "A four pitch climb on the gray right side buttress. Climb centre of face for two pitches. Then follow a corner a little to the left to avoid flakes on face. Move back to the centre and finish straight up. Relaxed climbing. Grade 14. Down climb 15m on ledges to gain the narrow north facing descent gully. This gully required one easy abseil near top.", "ascent": "Ross Cullen, Bill McLeod, November 2005" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/%C5%8Dhau-landsborough/barrier-range/pt-2070/grasshopper-wall/two-wrongs-make-right", "name": "Two Wrongs Make A Right", "grade": "15", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": "15", "description": null } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": "This climbed a rib which juts into the scree down and to the right of Grasshopper Wall. Five pitches. There may be a couple of additional pitches possible around a couple of gendarmes. Pitch 2 scuttled around the left side of the rib, but really needs a direct continuation. Grade 15. We down climbed pitch 5 and abseiled 20m to a walk off on the left-hand side of rib.", "ascent": "Alan Hill, Hamish Reid, February 2006" } ], "places": [], "image": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/wide/public/image/grasshopper2.jpg?itok=3PdrtW4z", "images": [ { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/wide/public/image/grasshopper2.jpg?itok=3PdrtW4z", "height": "200", "width": "337" }, { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/image/slice2.jpg?itok=J9T4oTHw", "height": "200", "width": "241" } ] } ], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aspiring/barrier-range/johansen": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aspiring/barrier-range/johansen", "name": "Johansen", "altitude": "2070m", "access": null, "description": "tba", "latlng": [ "-44.496873", "168.382513" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aspiring/barrier-range/johansen/standard-routes", "name": "Standard Routes", "grade": null, "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "This is a straightforward climb from the Abruzzi Glacier which can be reached either from O\u2019Leary Pass by crossing under Nansen Glacier, by traversing Frobisher and Chancellor or from the Dart via the route to Des- peration Pass. It can also be reached via a couloir from Seal Col." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": null } ], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/main-divide-of-the-southern-alps/mt-kai-iwi": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/main-divide-of-the-southern-alps/mt-kai-iwi", "name": "Mt Kai Iwi", "altitude": "2070m", "access": null, "description": null, "latlng": [ "-43.064937", "171.185532" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/main-divide-of-the-southern-alps/mt-kai-iwi/main-divide-ridges", "name": "Main Divide Ridges", "grade": null, "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "A bump on the ridge, easily traversed once the Main Divide has been reached." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Roger Chester, Alan Willis, John Pascoe, December 1930" } ], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/westland/john-pascoe-ridge/garden-of-eden-ice-plateau/little-unknown": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/westland/john-pascoe-ridge/garden-of-eden-ice-plateau/little-unknown", "name": "Little Unknown", "altitude": "2068m", "access": null, "description": "na", "latlng": [ "-43.327238", "170.623598" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/westland/john-pascoe-ridge/garden-of-eden-ice-plateau/little-unknown/western-slopes", "name": "Western slopes", "grade": "1", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "1", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "A straight forward snowplod and scramble from the Garden of Eden." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "W H Scott, GS Forbes, PF Scully, AE Lorimer,M Smith, CW Stewart, 31 Dec 1936." } ], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aspiring/main-divide/trident-pk": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aspiring/main-divide/trident-pk", "name": "Trident Pk", "altitude": "2068m", "access": null, "description": "A \u2018pleasant scramble\u2019 along the crest of the range between the Mueller and Te Naihi Rivers.\nT Barcham & A Cunningham, Dec 1950.", "latlng": [ "-44.144001", "168.975071" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aspiring/main-divide/trident-pk/stewart-pass", "name": "From Stewart Pass", "grade": null, "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "Can be climbed from Stewart Pass at the head of the south branch of Siberia Stream. Although access is possible via Stewart Pass, it is much more difficult than the climb itself. The South Siberia slopes of the pass are steep slabs and bluffs and gully draining it is prone to rockfall." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": null } ], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/canterbury-westland-alps/cabot-ridge/mt-scott": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/canterbury-westland-alps/cabot-ridge/mt-scott", "name": "Mt Scott", "altitude": "2066m", "access": null, "description": null, "latlng": [ "-42.990711", "171.281748" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/canterbury-westland-alps/cabot-ridge/mt-scott/north-ridge", "name": "North Ridge", "grade": null, "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": "600m", "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": "600m", "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "" } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": "0", "natural_pro": false, "description": "From Griffiths Saddle, traverse below Mt Camsell and follow the straightforward North Ridge to the top. Alternatively, from the lower Griffiths Glacier, head up a small glacier that joins the North Ridge.", "ascent": "Colin Pearson, S B Thompson, G L Clarke, February 1935" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/canterbury-westland-alps/cabot-ridge/mt-scott/north-east-ridge", "name": "North East Ridge", "grade": null, "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": "1000m", "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": "1000m", "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": null } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": "0", "natural_pro": false, "description": "From Gifford Stream gain the long North East Ridge and follow this to the rocky summit.", "ascent": null } ], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/canterbury-westland-alps/main-divide/gerard-pk": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/canterbury-westland-alps/main-divide/gerard-pk", "name": "Gerard Pk", "altitude": "2065m", "access": null, "description": null, "latlng": [ "-43.082242", "171.133862" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/canterbury-westland-alps/main-divide/gerard-pk/mathias-river", "name": "From Mathias River", "grade": null, "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "The first ascent was via Treachery Ridge, a route requiring a long snow sidle to reach the summit.\r\nHowever, a more direct route is likely to exist from the head of the north branch of Canyon\r\nCreek via snow slopes leading to a col east of the peak." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Roger Chester, Alan Willis, John Pascoe, December 1930" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/canterbury-westland-alps/main-divide/gerard-pk/west", "name": "From the West", "grade": "1+", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "1+", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "The upper Hokitika offers a reasonable western approach, while the east ridge from Sir Robert\r\nCreek is more challenging." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": null } ], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/mt-sinclair": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/mt-sinclair", "name": "Mt Sinclair", "altitude": "2065m", "access": null, "description": null, "latlng": [ "-43.64109419", "170.81952123" ], "routes": [], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aspiring/west-wanaka-mountains/mt-albert": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aspiring/west-wanaka-mountains/mt-albert", "name": "Mt Albert", "altitude": "2064m", "access": null, "description": null, "latlng": [ "-44.327201", "169.08188326" ], "routes": [], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/canterbury/froude-range/view-pk": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/canterbury/froude-range/view-pk", "name": "View Pk", "altitude": "2062m", "access": null, "description": null, "latlng": [ "-43.322618", "170.82839" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/canterbury/froude-range/view-pk/mccoy-stream", "name": "From McCoy Stream", "grade": "1", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "1", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": null } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": "It is a steep slog from the upper McCoy Stream.", "ascent": null }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/canterbury/froude-range/view-pk/lyell-glacier", "name": "From Lyell Glacier", "grade": null, "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "" } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": "From the Lyell Glacier follow a small side creek draining View Peak, then continue on easy-angled slopes to the top.", "ascent": "Edgar Williams, 1917" } ], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/tooth-peak": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/tooth-peak", "name": "Tooth Pk", "altitude": "2061m", "access": null, "description": null, "latlng": [ "-44.97912667", "168.31832054" ], "routes": [], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/darrans/darran-mountains/pt-2060": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/darrans/darran-mountains/pt-2060", "name": "Pt 2060", "altitude": "2060m", "access": null, "description": "This peak lies North-west of Mt Lyttle.", "latlng": [ "-44.768452", "168.089002" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/darrans/darran-mountains/pt-2060/original-route", "name": "Original route", "grade": null, "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Dick Ferris, Arch Smiley, Pat Lynch, 1935." } ], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/darrans/darran-mountains/mt-christina-south-pk": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/darrans/darran-mountains/mt-christina-south-pk", "name": "Mt Christina South Pk", "altitude": "2060m", "access": null, "description": null, "latlng": [ "-44.796536", "168.040766" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/darrans/darran-mountains/mt-christina-south-pk/south-face", "name": "South Face", "grade": null, "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": "Climb up a large shingle fan, then a gut leading to the foot of the South\nRidge. Follow the rib on the true left of the gut. Early season snow provided\ngood access to the col north of the South Peak and then to the summit. Jones\nand Laing then continued to the High Pk via the South West Face.", "ascent": "Howard Laing, Murray Jones, November 1966" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/darrans/darran-mountains/mt-christina-south-pk/south-west-ridge", "name": "South West Ridge", "grade": null, "topo_ref": "8", "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": "From the bottom of Lyttle's Flat climb a gully onto the ridge just left of\nthe rock scar. Follow the ridge to the first rock band, ascend the prominent\nwhite buttress on the left of the rock band, then move up right, keeping to\ngood rock. Join the ridge at a short corner and cheval, and continue to the\nSouth West Peak. The first ascentionist continued up the South West Ridge to\nthe summit of the High Pk.", "ascent": "Dave Vass, December 1989" } ], "places": [], "image": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/wide/public/image/D93_1.jpg?itok=X65cmgDj", "images": [ { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/wide/public/image/D93_1.jpg?itok=X65cmgDj", "height": "369", "width": "428" } ] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/main-divide-of-the-southern-alps/mt-eliot": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/main-divide-of-the-southern-alps/mt-eliot", "name": "Mt Eliot", "altitude": "2059m", "access": null, "description": null, "latlng": [ "-43.03869796", "171.23503672" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/main-divide-of-the-southern-alps/mt-eliot/south-west-ridge", "name": "South West Ridge", "grade": null, "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "Traverse the Divide from Mungo Pass." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Rod Hewitt, G C T Burns, February 1934" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/main-divide-of-the-southern-alps/mt-eliot/north-ridge", "name": "North Ridge", "grade": "1+", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "1+", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "Mt Eliot and Pt 2021 metres can be climbed from the basin immediately to their east. The central\r\nsection of the creek draining this basin is gorged and can be passed only after an exposed\r\nscramble on loose rock on the true right. If avalanche debris fills the valley, travel is straightforward.\r\nAlternative access is possible via the next creek north, draining the basin south-east of\r\nPt 1949 metres. This is a steep, moraine-filled creek with one small moraine step before reaching\r\nbasins at the head. To reach Mt Eliot, cross the ridge south of this basin on snow and ice, and\r\nthen aim for the gully between Mt Eliot and Pt 2021 metres. The summits are a simple scramble\r\nfrom here." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": null } ], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/nelson-lakes-kaikc58dura/raglan-range/pt-2059": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/nelson-lakes-kaikc58dura/raglan-range/pt-2059", "name": "Pt 2059", "altitude": "2059m", "access": null, "description": null, "latlng": [ "-41.90362388", "173.07962111" ], "routes": [], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/treble-cone": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/treble-cone", "name": "Treble Cone", "altitude": "2058m", "access": null, "description": "Harris Mountains", "latlng": [ "-44.63254311", "168.87229021" ], "routes": [], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki/mt-cook-range/mt-wakefield": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki/mt-cook-range/mt-wakefield", "name": "Mt Wakefield", "altitude": "2058m", "access": null, "description": "Mt Wakefield has been described as the focal point of\nAoraki / Mount Cook National Park, and it certainly\nfeels that way when you take in the view from the summit\non a fine day.\nA fast descent alternative to the south ridge in dry conditions is a scree slope from 1550m that drops directly to the valley floor. There are a number of glued moraine esque gullies that drop onto it, but the one at 1550m is the most mellow. There is also a large boulder at the top of the ~20m gully that a rope could be looped over to allow a rap onto the scree directly, but this should be executed with care to avoid rockfall, and certainly not during or after rain. See topo for entry point.", "latlng": [ "-43.77561812", "170.17427444" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki/mt-cook-range/mt-wakefield/routeless-guide", "name": "Routeless Guide", "grade": "12,3+,III", "topo_ref": "1.12", "image": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/routes/Routeless%20Guide%20Topo2.png?itok=Qi6fmILh", "images": [ { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/routes/Routeless%20Guide%20Topo2.png?itok=Qi6fmILh", "height": "179", "width": "325" } ], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": "3+", "commitment": "III", "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": "12", "description": "The most direct line to Wakefields summit. From the viewpoint at the end of the Hooker Valley Track, access the nearest scree fan descending from Mt Wakefield ( the second large scree fan on the east side of the Hooker valley) Start on a compact sandstone staircase (grade 10-12 max), then follow a broken ridge to the cliff bands, which are the crux of the climb. Trend right from the flat col at the top of the ridge on superb weathered greywacke to behind the obvious pink notch on the right edge of the cliff bands. This bypasses them via another sandstone staircase (crux grade 12) then finishes on easier ground and gullies to the summit.\r\n\r\nNumerous direct lines through the cliff bands exist with rock quality varying between take-home-with-you and excellent, with adequate protection available with cams 0.5-2. See topo for bypass route and variations." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Evan Davies, Cam Mulvey Feb 2017" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki/mt-cook-range/mt-wakefield/ranger-route-aka-guideless-buttress", "name": "Ranger Route a.k.a Guideless Buttress", "grade": "8,3,III", "topo_ref": "1.13", "image": null, "images": [], "length": "800m", "pitches": [ { "alpine": "3", "commitment": "III", "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": "800m", "bolts": null, "trad": true, "ewbank": "8", "description": null } ], "quality": 2, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": true, "description": "First climbed by local DOC staff in the summer of 2013, this 800m route offers some of the finest alpine scrambling near the village: enjoyable rock with some fantastic views and exposure. A fun and challenging day trip.Crux Grade 8.\nThe route climbs the buttress on the opposite side of the scree fan from Rootless Guide. Either start directly up the base of the buttress, which is steep and scrubby, or head further right and follow up a stream that gains the crest of the buttress at about 1250m. Negotiate multiple towers and gendarmes to where the buttress eases off to lower angle rubble and the broad upper basins of Mt Wakefield, exiting just under the radio towers at 2000m. A more challenging direct route 18/19 start has been climbed higher up the scree ( Ainsworth 2018)", "ascent": "Sam Bamford, Rod Barker, Erin Hawke, Marcus Reid, Feb 2013" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki/mt-cook-range/mt-wakefield/wakefield-gullies-various-grades", "name": "Wakefield Gullies - Various grades", "grade": null, "topo_ref": "1.14", "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [], "quality": 1, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": "A number of gullies on both sides of the South West\nRidge have been climbed when filled with snow and\nice. The first major scree fan in the East Hooker is one\nof these, known as the Winter Western Gully. The gullies just past the second swing bridge have also\nbeen climbed, one by Joe Friend and Colin Monteath\nin 1972, known as the Gully of a Thin Man.\nThe gully that begins at the large scree\ndownstream of the second swingbridge, on the\nsouth side of the South West Ridge, is called Bad\nObsession, and the right-hand variant (looking\nup) to this gully is called Psych Ward. These latter\ngullies are also used as (bold!) ski lines. They\nencounter steep terrain at about 1700m, which\ncould be unclimbed, as it\u2019s possible to abort by\ntraversing either right or left. Details about these\nroutes are scarce; it is hoped that more information\nwill eventually be available on climbnz.org.nz.", "ascent": null }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki/mt-cook-range/mt-wakefield/south-west-ridge-guides-route", "name": "South West Ridge (Guides Route)", "grade": "2+,II", "topo_ref": "1.15", "image": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/routes/wakefield%20topo.jpg?itok=JtB7xEFP", "images": [ { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/routes/wakefield%20topo.jpg?itok=JtB7xEFP", "height": "157", "width": "325" } ], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": "2+", "commitment": "II", "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": true, "ewbank": null, "description": "At least two of the ribs leading onto Wakefield from just above the second swingbridge were used as training climbs for guides in the 1930s. From the second swingbridge climb a very enjoyable ridge to the summit. The rock is good and the panoramic views including Sefton, the Main Divide and Aoraki are superb." } ], "quality": 1, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": true, "description": "The ridge was used as a training climb for guides in the early 1900s.There are several variations on the lower part of this ridge.\nFrom the true left end of the second swingbridge of the Hooker Valley track, turn off onto a faint ground trail on the true left of the valley and begin climbing anywhere from near the second swingbridge as far as the first really large scree slope on the East Side of the Hooker Valley, near the third swingbridge. (The second scree up valley from the second swingbridge seems to lead to the most pleasing line.) Some great pockets of solid red rock can be found, but the main challenge is avoiding the scrub. Higher up, the overall angle eases, but the rock quality deteriorates. The variations converge just below a small cheval around 1680m. The upper ridge merges into a series of basins and spurs south of the summit. Descend via the South Ridge.", "ascent": "First ascent unknown." }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki/mt-cook-range/mt-wakefield/old-man-and-scree", "name": "The Old Man and the Scree", "grade": "15", "topo_ref": "1.16", "image": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/route/tomats_0.jpg?itok=yLegCaDI", "images": [ { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/route/tomats_0.jpg?itok=yLegCaDI", "height": "216", "width": "325" }, { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/route/omc.jpg?itok=B6cRzmqn", "height": "244", "width": "325" } ], "length": "120m", "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": "120m", "bolts": null, "trad": true, "ewbank": "15", "description": null } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": true, "description": "This route is accessed from the first swingbridge on the Hooker valley track, along an old track that follows down the true left bank of the Hooker River. Visible from the village is a prominent scree slope and a series of buttresses leading to the ridge between Pt 1827m and Pt 1566m. Ascend the scree then aim for the left side of the buttress that separates a large hidden gully from the main scree. Climb slabs immediately right of a big corner and finish up the chimney. Two 60m pitches (grade 15), sparse protection, and loose rock. Walk off the back. According to Trev, it\u2019s a \u2018pretty worthless route for the effort to get there.\u2019\nSandra Martin, Trevor Streat, Dec 2014", "ascent": "Eyore and Growly, 25 December 2014" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki/mt-cook-range/mt-wakefield/south-ridge", "name": "South Ridge", "grade": "1,I", "topo_ref": "1.17", "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": "1", "commitment": "I", "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "This is an excellent day or overnight trip, with\r\npanoramic views. From the Tasman valley road\r\nbridge over the Hooker River, climb up the\r\nvegetated spur that eventually leads over scree\r\nand boulder fields to the summit. The true\r\nsummit is a long way beyond the highest point\r\nthat you can see from the village. Navigation\r\non the upper ridge can be difficult in cloudy\r\nconditions. Descend the same way." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Thomas Brodrick, Louis Sladden, 1889" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki/mt-cook-range/mt-wakefield/bad-obsession", "name": "Bad Obsession (?)", "grade": null, "topo_ref": null, "image": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/2023-10/Untitled-1.jpg?itok=6XBDTXCM", "images": [ { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/2023-10/Untitled-1.jpg?itok=6XBDTXCM", "height": "325", "width": "230" } ], "length": "700m", "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": "700m", "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": null } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": "0", "natural_pro": false, "description": "\"The gully that begins at the large scree\ndownstream of the second swing bridge, on the\nsouth side of the South West Ridge is called Bad Obsession.\" - Craig Hosking?\nThe crux of the route looks to be the bluff near the bottom. It may fill in after a big slide?", "ascent": null } ], "places": [], "image": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/wide/public/image/ATP%20Wakefield%201.jpg?itok=PUREk6uo", "images": [ { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/wide/public/image/ATP%20Wakefield%201.jpg?itok=PUREk6uo", "height": "577", "width": "849" }, { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/image/ATP%20Wakefield%202.jpg?itok=xQSFCcUT", "height": "325", "width": "261" }, { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/image/Wakefield%20scree%20descent.png?itok=5Tme3B0S", "height": "216", "width": "325" }, { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/image/Wakefield%20scree%20descent_0.png?itok=KskQ0qJ7", "height": "216", "width": "325" } ] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/mt-hyde": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/mt-hyde", "name": "Mt Hyde", "altitude": "2056m", "access": null, "description": "Harris Mountains", "latlng": [ "-44.75336223", "168.79929921" ], "routes": [], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aspiring/snowdrift-range/mt-victoria": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aspiring/snowdrift-range/mt-victoria", "name": "Mt Victoria", "altitude": "2055m", "access": null, "description": "tba", "latlng": [ "-44.474025", "168.45807" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aspiring/snowdrift-range/mt-victoria/standard-route", "name": "Standard Route", "grade": null, "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "Travel over snowfields on the Joe River side of Ferrier Peak, Bernard Peak and Mt Ian from O\u2019Leary Pass. When the n\u00e9v\u00e9 between Ian, Victoria and Tiber is reached, ice slopes are seen leading to the summit." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": null } ], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/arthurs-pass/main-divide/mt-oates": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/arthurs-pass/main-divide/mt-oates", "name": "Mt Oates", "altitude": "2054m", "access": null, "description": "Stands aloft the headwaters of the Mingha River. The normal approach route leaves Goat Pass and climbs easy slopes to Lake Mavis.", "latlng": [ "-42.90753141", "171.65262222" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/arthurs-pass/main-divide/mt-oates/lake-mavis", "name": "From Lake Mavis", "grade": "1", "topo_ref": "1", "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": "1", "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "From Lake Mavis continue along the Main Divide to join the main North Ridge at the 1978m buttress and turn south to the summit. This ridge is heavily fortified and some handline descents may be necessary. Beware of the soft snow cornice to the east in winter." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": null }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/arthurs-pass/main-divide/mt-oates/west-ridge", "name": "West Ridge", "grade": "1,I", "topo_ref": "2", "image": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/route/West%20Face%20%28left%29%20and%20West%20Ridge%20of%20Mt%20Oates%20from%20the%20North%20-%20Prominent%20buttress%20in%20centre.jpg?itok=AFWyL9iO", "images": [ { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/route/West%20Face%20%28left%29%20and%20West%20Ridge%20of%20Mt%20Oates%20from%20the%20North%20-%20Prominent%20buttress%20in%20centre.jpg?itok=AFWyL9iO", "height": "244", "width": "325" } ], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": "1", "commitment": "I", "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "Sidle around Lake Mavis at its outflow and join the West Ridge of Mt Oates via the obvious long gully between the West Face and a prominent buttress. Much of the West Ridge can be avoided by sidling below its south side to a col near the summit." } ], "quality": 1, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": null }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/arthurs-pass/main-divide/mt-oates/west-face", "name": "West Face", "grade": "1", "topo_ref": "3", "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": "1", "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "The 320 metre West Face rises directly above Lake Mavis. A line can be taken from the northern corner of the lake, diagonally to the true left, directly to the summit. Another more direct route is possible from below the summit, climbing on reasonable rock up through several exposed corners and fissures. In winter/late spring, slab and point release avalanches are commonplace across the breadth of the face. In any season watch for stonefall and general shrapnel spinning off the North Ridge." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": null }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/arthurs-pass/main-divide/mt-oates/south-summit", "name": "South Summit", "grade": "1", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": "1", "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "Reached either by utilising the scree/snow slopes south of the North Peak (under West Ridge), or by an exposed descent (20m abseil) via the joining ridge between the peaks. It can also be reached via the long ridge from Williams Saddle." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": null }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/arthurs-pass/main-divide/mt-oates/minga-river", "name": "From Minga River", "grade": "1", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": "1", "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "Reached directly from the Mingha River by climbing the spur on the northern side of Kennedy Falls. From the basin above the falls, ascend the scree slide and couloir to reach the joining ridge between the summits. Climb the loose faces from here." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": null }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/arthurs-pass/main-divide/mt-oates/mid-minga-river", "name": "From Mid Minga River", "grade": "1", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": "1", "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "Also Mt Williams (1718m) can also be reached from the mid Mingha River, by climbing (bashing) the steep bushy spur almost opposite the southern end of the Dudley Knob track. This route joins the Mt Williams North Ridge near a prominent buttress. To reach Mt Oates descend to Williams Saddle then follow the easy ridge northwards, sidling under its gendarmes and outcrops on the eastern side, regain the narrow ridge, ascending it to the summit of the high peak." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Miss B H Blunden, John Pascoe and B A Barrer, 15 February 1931" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/arthurs-pass/main-divide/mt-oates/edwards-hut", "name": "From Edwards Hut", "grade": "2", "topo_ref": "4", "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": "2", "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "Reached along the ridge which leads northwards from Williams Saddle. The saddle is gained by climbing the tussock/scree slope opposite Edwards Hut, aiming for the gap between the two prominent rock buttresses then sidling to the saddle. From the saddle follow the easy ridge northwards, sidling under its gendarmes and outcrops on the eastern side, regain the very narrow ridge ascending it to the summit of high peak." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": null }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/arthurs-pass/main-divide/mt-oates/edwards-direct", "name": "Edwards Direct", "grade": "1", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": "1", "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "A more direct approach is by the stream and basin near Taruahuna Pass. Climb the spur opposite Amber Col keeping true left of the stream, then sidle northwards under MT OATES, slowly climbing towards its North Ridge above several large guts. The peak is gained easily from here via (route 8.1). This is also a good winter route to link both Edwards and Mingha Valleys via Lake Mavis." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": null } ], "places": [], "image": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/wide/public/image/mt_oates_routes1_01.jpg?itok=C-BjqF2W", "images": [ { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/wide/public/image/mt_oates_routes1_01.jpg?itok=C-BjqF2W", "height": "675", "width": "900" }, { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/image/mt%2520oates-south%2520view-routemark.jpg?itok=FaF1eoSD", "height": "244", "width": "325" } ] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aspiring/haast-range/moonraker": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aspiring/haast-range/moonraker", "name": "Moonraker", "altitude": "2054m", "access": null, "description": "The name is more inspiring than the peak, which was first climbed by Peter Brook, Colin Todd and Kemp Fowler on January 11, 1949.", "latlng": [ "-44.302544", "168.738315" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aspiring/haast-range/moonraker/north-west-ridge", "name": "North West Ridge", "grade": "III,2", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": "III", "mtcook": "2", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "Traverse the Iso and Dipso Glaciers to the west ridge of Stargazer, which is crossed immediately below two prominent rock steps. The North Face of this ridge is descended by a series of snow gullies and the ridge then followed down about 400m on slopes of snow tussock, until a narrow shelf of snow tussock leads around into the cirque below the North West Face of Stargazer. As the ledge is followed north it becomes broad and sloping and an unpleasant slabby gut has to be crossed before the cirque is reached. From the cirque a snow spur leads out to a broad, gently sloping bench that runs below Spike and continues to the North West ridge of Moonraker. The North West Ridge consists of a short snow climb and 20m of easy rock. The peak is a long way from Colin Todd Hut and requires a bivvy, perhaps on the north side of the West Ridge of Stargazer." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": null }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aspiring/haast-range/moonraker/north-west-ridge-0", "name": "North West Ridge", "grade": null, "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": "Traverse from Corner Post.", "ascent": "H. T. Barcham, A. Cunningham, B. D. Mathews, G. J. McCallum, January 1951" } ], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/nelson-lakes-kaik%C5%8Dura/acheron%E2%80%93waihopai-mountains/blue-mountain": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/nelson-lakes-kaik%C5%8Dura/acheron%E2%80%93waihopai-mountains/blue-mountain", "name": "Blue Mountain", "altitude": "2051m", "access": null, "description": null, "latlng": [ "-41.91130816", "173.32914609" ], "routes": [], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/canterbury/two-thumb-range/the-knobbies": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/canterbury/two-thumb-range/the-knobbies", "name": "The Knobbies", "altitude": "2050m", "access": null, "description": "tba", "latlng": [ "-43.9067", "170.6437" ], "routes": [], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/canterbury/naumann-range/mt-glen-lyon": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/canterbury/naumann-range/mt-glen-lyon", "name": "Mt Glen Lyon", "altitude": "2050m", "access": "From the lower Hopkins valley, cross the Hopkins river and ascend the scree-filled gully leading north east toward the summit of the outlier of Glen Lyon to access a 500m high alpine rock slab.", "description": "(L to R) Vote for Pedro, Tenderfoot, Late Bloomer, Vote for Hillary, Chossy Mossy, Chicken Scoop", "latlng": [ "-44.0419062909", "169.861665043" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/canterbury/naumann-range/mt-glen-lyon/vote-pedro", "name": "Vote for Pedro", "grade": "15", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": "15", "description": null } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": "So we just pick up a line and climb the slabs and had a great day on the rock, thanks to share this mountain with all of us. However we started climbing 100m up the gut (no any snow left) and climb the pretty obvious diagonal corner to what we think is Derek's escape ledge and from there up a pitch with route 2 and traverse right (crux) to the arete. From here up another 2 pitches to the top ridge. We thought we climbed a new line and wanted to let you know. We called \"vote for pedro\" and it's a pleasant grade 13 with one pitch of 15 in the middle, we left a piton there too.", "ascent": "Carl Schiller - Fox Glacier, Matteo Scoz \u2013 Wanaka, February 2008" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/canterbury/naumann-range/mt-glen-lyon/tenderfoot", "name": "Tenderfoot", "grade": "3+", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "3+", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": null } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": "From the lower Hopkins valley ascend the gully leading north east toward the\nsummit and climb the 500m high alpine rock slab from left to right, topping\nout near 1900m contour. 8-10 pitches crux 14-15, alpine grade 3+.", "ascent": "Paul Hersey, Mat Woods May 2004" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/canterbury/naumann-range/mt-glen-lyon/late-bloomer", "name": "Late Bloomer", "grade": "17", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": "17", "description": null } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": "8-10 pitches, crux grade 17.", "ascent": "Mat Woods, Dave Morgan, February 2005" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/canterbury/naumann-range/mt-glen-lyon/vote-hilary", "name": "Vote for Hilary", "grade": "15", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": "15", "description": null } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": "Six pitches (crux 14/15) to the outlier, short scramble and two abseils off.", "ascent": "Paul Hersey, Mat Woods, January 2007" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/canterbury/naumann-range/mt-glen-lyon/chossy-mossy", "name": "Chossy Mossy", "grade": "15", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": "15", "description": null } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": "Follow a wide crack followed broken by ledges just right of a huge overhanging scoop. Stemming crux is through overlaps, grade 15.", "ascent": "Shelly Graham, Paul Hersey, November 2005" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/canterbury/naumann-range/mt-glen-lyon/chicken-scoop", "name": "Chicken Scoop", "grade": null, "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": "A four pitch climb that begins lower on the face. First pitch is a stunner, 40 metres of bomber incuts and high steps with just enough gear. One pitch scramble to the outlier summit and a 50m abseil to the exit gully.", "ascent": "Paul Hersey, Manfred Oswald, November 2005" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/canterbury/naumann-range/mt-glen-lyon/blind-assassin", "name": "The Blind Assassin", "grade": "15", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": "15", "description": null } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Paul Hersey, Phill Davies, 2013" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/canterbury/naumann-range/mt-glen-lyon/east-ridge", "name": "East Ridge", "grade": "1", "topo_ref": null, "image": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/route/glenlyon.jpg?itok=8tOqMutv", "images": [ { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/route/glenlyon.jpg?itok=8tOqMutv", "height": "265", "width": "325" } ], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "1", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": null } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": "From the Dobson, follow the stream up to Waterfall Basin and then head south\nto gain the col at 1900m on the east ridge. Follow the ridge to the summit.\nThe descent was made from the col via a gully system to the south keeping to\nthe true left of the prominent ravine. Several small bluffs and head high\nscrub were encountered in the lower section.", "ascent": "Phil Doole, Pip Lynch, Ross Cullen January 2008" } ], "places": [], "image": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/wide/public/image/glenlyon2.jpg?itok=AF3YF9DJ", "images": [ { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/wide/public/image/glenlyon2.jpg?itok=AF3YF9DJ", "height": "346", "width": "237" }, { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/image/gl_lg_close.jpg?itok=h7twXl9c", "height": "198", "width": "325" }, { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/image/Glen%20Lyon.png?itok=idETkAtW", "height": "227", "width": "325" } ] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/westland/sawtooth-ridge/the-tusk": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/westland/sawtooth-ridge/the-tusk", "name": "The Tusk", "altitude": "2046m", "access": null, "description": "na", "latlng": [ "-43.106623", "170.884609" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/westland/sawtooth-ridge/the-tusk/south", "name": "From the South", "grade": "1-", "topo_ref": "FS", "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "The Tusk is easily approached along the ridge from Raged Peak and the Reid\u2013Stag Creek forks." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "W Ridland, B H Mason, December 1935" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/westland/sawtooth-ridge/the-tusk/dickie-ridge", "name": "Dickie Ridge", "grade": "1+", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "1+", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "This long ridge can be traversed from Dickie Spur Hut to the Tusk but the rock is loose, there\r\nare pinnacles to negotiate and parts of the ridge are quite exposed" } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": null }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/westland/sawtooth-ridge/the-tusk/top-tuke-hut", "name": "From Top Tuke Hut", "grade": "1+", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "1+", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "Head up valley from the hut and take the true-left lower fork that is closest to the 1020-metre\r\ncontour. With snow in the gully, this offers reasonable travel to near Dickie Ridge, when access\r\nto the gentler upper snow slopes can be gained." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Ted Brennan, Clair Healing, Dicey Davidson, February 2004" } ], "places": [], "image": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/wide/public/image/p253_1.png?itok=H6SZPb2e", "images": [ { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/wide/public/image/p253_1.png?itok=H6SZPb2e", "height": "585", "width": "900" } ] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/main-divide-of-the-southern-alps/mt-griffiths": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/main-divide-of-the-southern-alps/mt-griffiths", "name": "Mt Griffiths", "altitude": "2046m", "access": null, "description": "na", "latlng": [ "-42.979346", "171.273594" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/main-divide-of-the-southern-alps/mt-griffiths/south-east-ridge", "name": "South East Ridge", "grade": "1-", "topo_ref": "SER", "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "From Griffiths Saddle follow easy snow slopes on the Gifford side of the ridge up to a flat area\r\non the Main Divide." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": null } ], "places": [], "image": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/wide/public/image/p279.png?itok=uGG0Xjy2", "images": [ { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/wide/public/image/p279.png?itok=uGG0Xjy2", "height": "520", "width": "900" } ] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/fiordland/darran-mountains/mt-gunn": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/fiordland/darran-mountains/mt-gunn", "name": "Mt Gunn", "altitude": "2044m", "access": null, "description": "tba", "latlng": [ "-44.755295", "168.084338" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/fiordland/darran-mountains/mt-gunn/original-route", "name": "Original Route", "grade": null, "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Bob Cuthill, Denise Schonyan, 1959." } ], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/nelson-lakes-kaikc58dura/acherone28093waihopai-mountains/bounds": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/nelson-lakes-kaikc58dura/acherone28093waihopai-mountains/bounds", "name": "Bounds", "altitude": "2044m", "access": "Log in or register for information on access to the Waihopai valley.", "description": null, "latlng": [ "-41.77090159", "173.30800467" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/nelson-lakes-kaik%C5%8Dura/acheron%E2%80%93waihopai-mountains/bounds/east-faces", "name": "East Faces", "grade": "1", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "1", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "" } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": "From the Waihopai valley, walk up Gosling Stream to Gosling Hut (6 bunks, standard, no mattresses). The stream forks about 1.2km upstream from the hut. The true right branch soon becomes rugged; bushcrash past a waterfall on true right, following a cairned trail, into upper basins and on to the summit. The true left branch is easily followed through open forest and across large tussock and scree basins to the summit ridge.", "ascent": null }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/nelson-lakes-kaik%C5%8Dura/acheron%E2%80%93waihopai-mountains/bounds/east-ridge", "name": "East Ridge", "grade": "2+", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "2+", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": null } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": "From the Waihopai valley, walk up Gosling Stream to Gosling Hut (6 bunks, standard, no mattresses). From Gosling Hut, continue upstream for about 1.2 km and take the true left fork. Once on the ridge, a deep cleft and gendarme at about 1880m requires a rope, but this could be avoided by climbing a steep gully from the north-east basin.", "ascent": null }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/nelson-lakes-kaik%C5%8Dura/acheron%E2%80%93waihopai-mountains/bounds/west-ridge", "name": "West Ridge", "grade": "1", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "1", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "" } ], "quality": 1, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": "From the Leatham Valley head up Boulder Stream. At about 3.3km from the mouth of Boulder Stream, on its north bank, is an obvious side stream, which leads to a low saddle into upper Station Creek (best to avoid the lower creek). Good campsite here. Gain the long rocky ridge, crossing three minor bumps, leading to the summit slabs.", "ascent": null } ], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/c58dhau-landsborough/hooker-range/mt-townsend": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/c58dhau-landsborough/hooker-range/mt-townsend", "name": "Mt Townsend", "altitude": "2043m", "access": null, "description": "TBA", "latlng": [ "-43.73753357145", "169.92623293888" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/westland/hooker-range/mt-townsend/megawatt", "name": "Megawatt", "grade": "5+", "topo_ref": null, "image": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/route/Mt%20%20Townsend%20.jpg?itok=agiKqXma", "images": [ { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/route/Mt%20%20Townsend%20.jpg?itok=agiKqXma", "height": "244", "width": "325" } ], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "5+", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": null } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": "This upper Landsborough climb was accessed via Barron Saddle, Scissors Peak,\nand Hardies Gut. On the east face of Mt Townsend begin up shallow buttress\ndirectly beneath summit. Wend up until a compact wall bars progress, and\nswing around right into big corner. Follow corner until it steepens to\ncontinuous overhang. Move left onto buttress and cross left to another corner\nwhich leads to the top of wall. Follow sloping terrace to gain crest of right\nhand ar\u00eate, and climb steep ar\u00eate to summit. Excellent rock, route finding\nis simplified by following large features. Overhangs can be turned. This is\nsteep terrain, and any mixups could cause hardship. Grade14-17, 600m.", "ascent": "Bill McLeod, March 1996" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/westland/hooker-range/mt-townsend/south-ridge", "name": "South Ridge", "grade": "2", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "2", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": null } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": "From the upper Landsborough River climb the slopes to gain the ridge south of\nTownsend then follow ridge to the summit. The ridge is precipitous on the\neastern side.", "ascent": "Don Beaven, Bill Beaven, Murray Spencer, John Gummer, Earle Riddiford, January 1947" } ], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aspiring/west-wanaka-mountains/pt-2043": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aspiring/west-wanaka-mountains/pt-2043", "name": "Pt 2043", "altitude": "2043m", "access": null, "description": null, "latlng": [ "-44.44126246", "168.91585306" ], "routes": [], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/nelson-lakes-kaik%C5%8Dura/acheron%E2%80%93waihopai-mountains/saxton": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/nelson-lakes-kaik%C5%8Dura/acheron%E2%80%93waihopai-mountains/saxton", "name": "Saxton", "altitude": "2043m", "access": null, "description": null, "latlng": [ "-41.97469071", "173.14967868" ], "routes": [], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aspiring/barrier-range/stefansson-pk": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aspiring/barrier-range/stefansson-pk", "name": "Stefansson Pk", "altitude": "2043m", "access": null, "description": null, "latlng": [ "-44.493445", "168.362171" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aspiring/barrier-range/stefansson-pk/standard-routes", "name": "Standard Routes", "grade": "II,2", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": "II", "mtcook": "2", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "Climb from Derivation Neve or Margaret Glacier via Gino Peak or from Desperation Pass." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": null } ], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki/sealy-range/mt-kitchener": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki/sealy-range/mt-kitchener", "name": "Mt Kitchener", "altitude": "2042m", "access": null, "description": "Sealy Ra", "latlng": [ "-43.7352", "170.0633" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki/sealy-range/mt-kitchener/watertank-ridge", "name": "Watertank Ridge", "grade": "1", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "1", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "Starts directly behind the Hermitage. A pleasant day trip." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": null }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki/sealy-range/mt-kitchener/mueller-hut", "name": "From Mueller Hut", "grade": "1,I", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": "0m", "pitches": [ { "alpine": "1", "commitment": "I", "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": null } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": "0", "natural_pro": false, "description": "Up easy rock from the slopes behind Mueller Hut. There are numerous variations. Take care if cloud comes in while you\u2019re out \u2013 the hut is harder to find when descending than you think.", "ascent": null } ], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/2042": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/2042", "name": "Pt 2042", "altitude": "2042m", "access": null, "description": null, "latlng": [ "-43.48400753", "170.66193777" ], "routes": [], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/main-divide-of-the-southern-alps/mt-tregear": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/main-divide-of-the-southern-alps/mt-tregear", "name": "Mt Tregear", "altitude": "2042m", "access": null, "description": null, "latlng": [ "-43.088761", "171.145105" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/main-divide-of-the-southern-alps/mt-tregear/main-divide-ridges", "name": "Main Divide Ridges", "grade": null, "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "Once on the Main Divide, travel is straightforward." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Roger Chester, Alan Willis, John Pascoe, December 1930" } ], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/main-divide-of-the-southern-alps/mt-learmont": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/main-divide-of-the-southern-alps/mt-learmont", "name": "Mt Learmont", "altitude": "2042m", "access": null, "description": "na", "latlng": [ "-42.958433", "171.296425" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/main-divide-of-the-southern-alps/mt-learmont/retreat-snowfield", "name": "From Retreat Snowfield", "grade": "1", "topo_ref": "RS", "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "1", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "Reach the Retreat Snowfield from either Farquharson Saddle or Hall Col. At about the 1700-\r\nmetre contour, swing north-west up snow slopes towards a rib. A diagonal gully now leads right\r\nto give easy access to the East Ridge at about 2000 metres." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "G C T Burns, R J Allen, N Barker, C G Buchanan, December 1934" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/main-divide-of-the-southern-alps/mt-learmont/east-ridge", "name": "East Ridge", "grade": null, "topo_ref": "ER", "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "The East Ridge is a rocky scramble, but gaining it from Hall Col involves broken, gnarly\r\ngendarmes. The first ascent party descended along the Main Divide to the Hall Glacier and\r\nreturned to the Gifford via Hall Col." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": null }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/main-divide-of-the-southern-alps/mt-learmont/north-ridge", "name": "North Ridge", "grade": null, "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "The North Ridge is loose in places and has a very unpleasant, actively eroding gash about 200\r\nmetres from the summit. However, the north-eastern slopes of the mountain are simple rock\r\nscrambles in summer from the head of the Crawford Valley. Access up the stream bed beyond\r\nCrawford Bivvy is relatively easy all the way to the Main Divide." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": null } ], "places": [], "image": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/wide/public/image/p280.png?itok=I-NaXkNq", "images": [ { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/wide/public/image/p280.png?itok=I-NaXkNq", "height": "676", "width": "900" } ] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/arthurs-pass/jellicoe-ridge/mt-guinevere": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/arthurs-pass/jellicoe-ridge/mt-guinevere", "name": "Mt Guinevere", "altitude": "2042m", "access": null, "description": "tba", "latlng": [ "-42.14096757", "172.71937459" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/arthurs-pass/jellicoe-ridge/mt-guinevere/side-creek-which-drains-jellicoe-ridge", "name": "Via side creek which drains from Jellicoe Ridge", "grade": "1", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": "1", "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "may be reached either by the stream which drains from Jellicoe Ridge 1km downstream of the White River, or by scrub covered slopes opposite" } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": null }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/arthurs-pass/jellicoe-ridge/mt-guinevere/crow-hut-route", "name": "Crow Hut Route", "grade": "1", "topo_ref": "2", "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": "1", "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "Not easily accessible from the Crow Valley, but a route may be followed up the bluffs behind the Crow Hut using the interlocking slabs and screes (steer well clear of the waterfall gullies, Never found yourself in a situation of no return??) to the basins below the peak. Before attempting this route survey it from the summit of Lyell Peak (Grade. 2 for sheer determination)" } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": null }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/arthurs-pass/jellicoe-ridge/mt-guinevere/north-east-ridge", "name": "North East Ridge", "grade": "2", "topo_ref": "1", "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": "2", "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "Bash through scrub 500m south of Crow Hut, to an interesting scree gully at about 1200m elevation. A series of slabs and gullies leads to grassed slopes overlooking a tarn. Gain the North East Ridge at this point and ascend to the summit." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": null } ], "places": [], "image": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/wide/public/image/mt%2520guinevere-east%2520view-routemark.jpg?itok=oy5z5HP4", "images": [ { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/wide/public/image/mt%2520guinevere-east%2520view-routemark.jpg?itok=oy5z5HP4", "height": "675", "width": "900" } ] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aspiring/drake-range/sombre": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aspiring/drake-range/sombre", "name": "Sombre", "altitude": "2040m", "access": null, "description": "tba", "latlng": [ "-44.1665894", "168.8262014" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aspiring/drake-range/sombre/east-face", "name": "East Face", "grade": null, "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "East Face, from Drake Valley" } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "T Barcham, A Cunningham, B D Matthew & G J McCallum, Dec 1950." } ], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/darrans/darran-mountains/barrier-pk": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/darrans/darran-mountains/barrier-pk", "name": "Barrier Pk", "altitude": "2039m", "access": null, "description": null, "latlng": [ "-44.74959825", "168.03610325" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/darrans/darran-mountains/barrier-pk/original-route", "name": "Original Route", "grade": null, "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": "Traverse from Barrier Knob to Barrier Peak.", "ascent": "George Moir, Ken Roberts, Bob Sinclair, Harry Slater, 1924" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/darrans/darran-mountains/barrier-pk/left-hand-pillar", "name": "Left-hand Pillar", "grade": null, "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": "Follows the pillar left of the central Barrier Face gully. A meandering route with some pleasant climbing.", "ascent": "Ian Brooks, Merv English, 1975" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/darrans/darran-mountains/barrier-pk/barrier-face", "name": "Barrier Face", "grade": null, "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": "The broad gully in the centre of the face at the head of the Gertrude Valley gives an easy route but is threatened by avalanche and rockfall.", "ascent": "Gerry Hall-Jones, Dal Ryan, Duncan Wilson, February 1956" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/darrans/darran-mountains/barrier-pk/barrier-face-winter", "name": "Barrier Face (Winter)", "grade": "2,III", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": "2", "commitment": "III", "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": null } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": true, "description": "From the head of the Gertrude Valley, solo up to the obvious narrowing in the central gully on the Barrier Face, where three pitches take you onto the central snowfield. Head into the summit gullies and follow your nose.", "ascent": "Geoff Gabites, Pete Moore, July 1971" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/darrans/darran-mountains/barrier-pk/south-ridge", "name": "South Ridge", "grade": null, "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [], "quality": 1, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": "Climb the ridge from the Barrier\u2013Crosscut Col. The first ascent party made the first traverse of Barrier Peak.", "ascent": "Dot Green, Jean McAuley, C Ramsey, Kurt Suter, 1937" } ], "places": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/darrans/darran-mountains/barrier-pk/south-face", "name": "South Face", "altitude": "1700m", "access": "Best accessed from Gertrude Valley via Barrier Face to Barrier-Crosscut col. Alternatively, access via Gertrude Saddle to Barrier Peak then scramble down ridge. Several pitches may be required to traverse exposed sections into upper terrace.", "description": "Upper Marian Valley\nLots of unexplored terrain, easily achievable as a day trip from Homer Hut. A cosy biv site can be found 10 meters below Barrier Peak to the west on the Gertrude Valley side.", "latlng": [ "-44.751518", "168.037391" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/darrans/darran-mountains/barrier-pk/south-face/mortensen-whiston", "name": "Mortensen Whiston", "grade": null, "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "From the Barrier Crosscut Col, traverse to the terrace below the face to climb a line near the col." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Richard Mortensen, Neal Whiston. 1974." }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/darrans/darran-mountains/barrier-pk/south-face/clark-gabites", "name": "Clark Gabites", "grade": null, "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "Take the only continuous crack-line from the head of the Upper Marian to the South Ridge, offering 600m of good climbing. The route starts on the left side of the lower cirque wall." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Bruce Clark, Geoff Gabites, Dec 1974." }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/darrans/darran-mountains/barrier-pk/south-face/denz-judge", "name": "Denz Judge", "grade": null, "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "Traverse across from the Barrier Crosscut col into the upper face; the route takes a narrow right-slanting ramp then directly up to the ridge on excellent rock.\r\nThe traverse across the face to the start of the route is difficult and exposed." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Bill Denz, Murray Judge, Feb 1977." }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/darrans/darran-mountains/barrier-pk/south-face/hillary-jones", "name": "Hillary Jones", "grade": null, "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "A direct line through the lower cirque wall finishing 100m from the summit." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Peter Hillary, Murray Jones, Dec 1976." }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/darrans/darran-mountains/barrier-pk/south-face/jaz-hands", "name": "Jaz Hands", "grade": "17", "topo_ref": "JH", "image": null, "images": [], "length": "240m", "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": "240m", "bolts": null, "trad": true, "ewbank": "17", "description": "Takes corner system up prominent buttress topping out on ridge 100m below summit. 5 pitches - good pro." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": true, "description": null, "ascent": "Jaz Morris, Michael Eatson" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/darrans/darran-mountains/barrier-pk/south-face/peaking-pete", "name": "Peaking Pete", "grade": "20,A2", "topo_ref": null, "image": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/route/Darrans%20Summer%202015-1-2.jpg?itok=9sY4qDPW", "images": [ { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/route/Darrans%20Summer%202015-1-2.jpg?itok=9sY4qDPW", "height": "325", "width": "223" } ], "length": "440m", "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": "30m", "bolts": null, "trad": true, "ewbank": "17", "description": "Right facing corner goes up to belay on a ledge" }, { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": "30m", "bolts": null, "trad": true, "ewbank": "17", "description": "Parallel corners on good gear up to belay on legde" }, { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": "A2", "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": "55m", "bolts": null, "trad": true, "ewbank": "16", "description": "Handcrack up to small pendulum to right hand crack" }, { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": "50m", "bolts": null, "trad": true, "ewbank": "19", "description": "Starts hard up thin corner, then moves right then easy right trending ledge , moving around chimney back left to good ledge directly under your belayer" }, { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": "40m", "bolts": null, "trad": true, "ewbank": "14", "description": "Straight up" }, { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": "A1", "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": "55m", "bolts": null, "trad": true, "ewbank": "17", "description": "Rad chimney pitch with slight tension traverse right hand side of main feature. 17, A1, or 23-24 free" }, { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": "A2", "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": "40m", "bolts": null, "trad": true, "ewbank": "20", "description": "Move right around column features, then across to right hand corner. Up this corner, and then pendulum back left and up left hand corner to hanging belay" }, { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": "60m", "bolts": null, "trad": true, "ewbank": "17", "description": "Go straight up, not left, stepping slightly right of belay att the cracks" }, { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": "80m", "bolts": null, "trad": true, "ewbank": null, "description": "Scramble over steep loose ground to ridge" } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": true, "description": null, "ascent": "Daniel Joll, Pete Harris" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/darrans/darran-mountains/barrier-pk/south-face/uren%E2%80%93skelton", "name": "Uren\u2013Skelton", "grade": "19", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": "19", "description": "Traverse snow ramp quite a ways right until just before the buttress that separates Barrier from Marian forces you down. Start up an obvious crack aiming for a distinct, detached pillar of rock that looks like a thumb. The original ascent attempted to climb a roof below and on the way to this thumb, before being subdued back into the corner. The corner offers four pitches of fun, well protected climbing with a little spice on each pitch. The thumb awaits an ascent if a would-be climber can fight through the well protected roof (25ish). 5\u20136 pitches in total." } ], "quality": 1, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Al Uren, Steve Skelton, March 2014" } ], "places": [], "image": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/wide/public/image/Barrier%20South%20Face-01%20%281%29.jpg?itok=8V3Yg37c", "images": [ { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/wide/public/image/Barrier%20South%20Face-01%20%281%29.jpg?itok=8V3Yg37c", "height": "524", "width": "900" }, { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/image/Barrier%20Face.png?itok=xq0zNXlU", "height": "235", "width": "325" } ] } ], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/c58dhau-landsborough/barrier-range/pt-2038": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/c58dhau-landsborough/barrier-range/pt-2038", "name": "Pt 2038", "altitude": "2038m", "access": null, "description": null, "latlng": [ "-44.16731279137", "169.6651053596" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/%C5%8Dhau-landsborough/barrier-range/pt-2038/south-ridge", "name": "South Ridge", "grade": "1-", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": null } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": "From pond near mouth of Watson Stream in mid Ahuriri valley, climb through\nbeech forest to 1200 m contour and follow south ridge toward summit. Complete\na short rocky scramble on east side to reach summit. Traverse north 1km past\n2035m then descend via scree to reach valley near Hagens Hut.", "ascent": "Probable ascent W Marshall, N Kinraid and Miss J Kinraid, December 1947. John Barkla, Ross Cullen, January 2005" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/%C5%8Dhau-landsborough/barrier-range/pt-2038/south-west-ridge", "name": "South West Ridge", "grade": "1+", "topo_ref": null, "image": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/route/p2038sm.jpg?itok=Vu5PvI-p", "images": [ { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/route/p2038sm.jpg?itok=Vu5PvI-p", "height": "200", "width": "248" } ], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "1+", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": null } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": "Leave Ahuriri valley 1km north of Watsons Pond and wander through beech\nforest to reach the base of the left ridge. Ascend the ridge by scrambling\nthe five or six towers to reach the summit region and stroll to the top. Easy\ndescent down gully between the two ridges.", "ascent": "Ross Cullen and Nick Shearer, Feb 10, 2007" } ], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/2036": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/2036", "name": "Pt 2036", "altitude": "2036m", "access": null, "description": null, "latlng": [ "-42.2015175", "172.82928596" ], "routes": [], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/main-divide-of-the-southern-alps/mt-park": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/main-divide-of-the-southern-alps/mt-park", "name": "Mt Park", "altitude": "2036m", "access": null, "description": null, "latlng": [ "-43.04192", "171.214457" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/main-divide-of-the-southern-alps/mt-park/north-ridge", "name": "North Ridge", "grade": "1", "topo_ref": "NR", "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "1", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "The East Ridge from Pt 1954 metres is rocky, and the peak is more easily approached from the\r\nbasin north of here, up the north ridge." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": null } ], "places": [], "image": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/wide/public/image/p266_1.png?itok=V0UR2WlE", "images": [ { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/wide/public/image/p266_1.png?itok=V0UR2WlE", "height": "716", "width": "900" } ] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/arthurs-pass/main-divide/mt-isobel": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/arthurs-pass/main-divide/mt-isobel", "name": "Mt Isobel", "altitude": "2036m", "access": null, "description": null, "latlng": [ "-42.95167964", "171.40199661" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/arthurs-pass/main-divide/mt-isobel/harman-pass", "name": "From Harman Pass", "grade": "1", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": "1", "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": null } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": "Climb directly from Harman Pass by ascending to the stepped ridge of the Main\nDivide via the screes and snow slopes leading from the pass. Easy climbing\nprevails to the Low Peak (2013m), followed by a steep, razor sharp descent to\nthe saddle between the peaks. Once on Mt Isobel\u2019s high peak it may be\nprudent to continue south, descending on snow slopes to Whitehorn Pass.", "ascent": null }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/arthurs-pass/main-divide/mt-isobel/whitehorn-pass", "name": "From Whitehorn Pass", "grade": "2", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": "2", "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": null } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": "Mt Isobel is a short climb from Whitehorn Pass. A small gendarme on the back\nof the South Ridge can cause some concern in loose snow conditions.", "ascent": null }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/arthurs-pass/main-divide/mt-isobel/kilmarnock-glacier", "name": "Via Kilmarnock Glacier", "grade": "2", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": "2", "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": null } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": "The Kilmarnock Glacier terminal is reached by sidling around from the North\nEast Spur of Mt Davie. From the head of the Kilmarnock glacial field, climb\nto the col between the two summits.", "ascent": "R G Harris and R W Glendinning, April 1931" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/arthurs-pass/main-divide/mt-isobel/white-valley", "name": "From White Valley", "grade": "2", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": "2", "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": null } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": "A direct route over the Low Peak may be taken from the White Valley. Follow\nthe small slide near the mouth of the Taipoiti River to the slopes above the\nWhite Valley. From there climb to the basin below the Low Peak", "ascent": null } ], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/main-divide-of-the-southern-alps/mt-ballance": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/main-divide-of-the-southern-alps/mt-ballance", "name": "Mt Ballance", "altitude": "2036m", "access": null, "description": null, "latlng": [ "-43.075785", "171.165361" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/main-divide-of-the-southern-alps/mt-ballance/main-divide-ridges", "name": "Main Divide Ridges", "grade": null, "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "A bump on the ridge, easily traversed once the Main Divide has been reached." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Roger Chester, Alan Willis, John Pascoe, December 1930" } ], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/souter-peak": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/souter-peak", "name": "Souter Pk", "altitude": "2035m", "access": null, "description": "Macpherson Heights", "latlng": [ "-44.06667358", "168.97408235" ], "routes": [], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/arthurs-pass/polar-range/mt-wilson": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/arthurs-pass/polar-range/mt-wilson", "name": "Mt Wilson", "altitude": "2035m", "access": null, "description": "First ascended by E Wilson and A Anderson, December 1930.", "latlng": [ "-42.93176186", "171.67850018" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/arthurs-pass/polar-range/mt-wilson/upper-edwards-valley", "name": "From Upper Edwards Valley", "grade": "1", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": "1", "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": null } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": "A scramble from the upper valley floor.", "ascent": "E Wilson and A Anderson, December 1930" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/arthurs-pass/polar-range/mt-wilson/hawdon-hut", "name": "From Hawdon Hut", "grade": "1", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": "1", "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "Climbed via Sudden Valley Stream by ascending the long ridge behind Hawdon Hut. Reaching the 1794m point, follow the Northwest Spur for 800m, climbing over several very exposed gendarmes to reach the long scree slope into the head of Sudden Valley. From here both peaks may be reached via the scree/snow gully between them. Allow 110% of all daylight hours if you intend returning to the Hawdon Valley." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": null }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/arthurs-pass/polar-range/mt-wilson/sudden-valley-stream", "name": "From Sudden Valley Stream", "grade": "1", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": "1", "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "A steep scree or snow slope between Mt Wilson and Mt Scott gives good \r\nclimbing access to both peaks from the head of Sudden Valley Stream." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": null }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/arthurs-pass/polar-range/mt-wilson/south-east-ridge", "name": "South East Ridge", "grade": "1", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": "1", "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "From Sudden Valley Stream, ascending a steep scree gully 2km upstream of the Sudden Valley Biv. Aim for the deep notch just north of the 1853m point. The ridge is then followed to the peak (the East Edwards side provides bypasses)." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": null } ], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/westland/lange-range/mt-thorndike": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/westland/lange-range/mt-thorndike", "name": "Mt Thorndike", "altitude": "2035m", "access": null, "description": "na", "latlng": [ "-43.150346", "170.958166" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/westland/lange-range/mt-thorndike/pahlow-ridge", "name": "Pahlow Ridge", "grade": "1-", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "From Price Basin Hut cross the stream, climb directly up past the last stragglers of scrub, then\r\nhead for the crest of Pahlow Ridge beyond Mt Van Redan. A simple climb on tussock then\r\nshingle." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": null }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/westland/lange-range/mt-thorndike/east-ridge", "name": "East Ridge", "grade": null, "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "From Wilkinson Hut via Pt 1036 metres." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Andrew Buglass" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/westland/lange-range/mt-thorndike/wilkinson-river", "name": "From Wilkinson River", "grade": "1+", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "1+", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "\u2018Up the Wilkinson and thence up a side creek from which they worked on to a spur up to the\r\nmain ridge and so to the top\u2019 : probably Walcott Creek and then the south-east ridge." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "John Gabites, Bernard Greig, Paul Powell, Chas Watson-Munroe, Kath Boswell, Muriel Broughton, Stan Davis, Derrick Freeman and Roy Wilson, 28 December 1938" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/westland/lange-range/mt-thorndike/south-ridge", "name": "South Ridge", "grade": null, "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "Gained from Seddon Stream. Descent was via a couloir back into Seddon Stream." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "D J Elphick, A D Hooper, May 1959" } ], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/c58dhau-landsborough/hooker-range/crystal-pk": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/c58dhau-landsborough/hooker-range/crystal-pk", "name": "Crystal Pk", "altitude": "2034m", "access": null, "description": null, "latlng": [ "-43.74695", "169.821527" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/c58dhau-landsborough/hooker-range/crystal-pk/north-west-ridge", "name": "North West Ridge", "grade": "2,II", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": "0m", "pitches": [ { "alpine": "2", "commitment": "II", "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": null } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": "0", "natural_pro": false, "description": "From the head of the Mahitahi, gain the col west of Crystal Peak up the steep glacier. Climb an ar\u00eate of friable schist. The first ascent party descended the south-east ridge to Mueller Pass.", "ascent": "Marie Byles, Marjorie Edgar-Jones, Harry Ayres, Frank Alack, January 1935" } ], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/darrans/darran-mountains/taiaroa-south-pk": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/darrans/darran-mountains/taiaroa-south-pk", "name": "Taiaroa South Pk", "altitude": "2033m", "access": null, "description": "The South Peak overlooks the Korako Glacier.", "latlng": null, "routes": [], "places": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/fiordland/darran-mountains/taiaroa-pk/south-pk/south-face", "name": "South Face", "altitude": null, "access": null, "description": "The 300-metre-high south face of Taiaroa\u2019s south peak rises steeply out of the Korako glacier approximately 300m right of Crampon Pass.", "latlng": [ "-44.681309", "168.059619" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/fiordland/darran-mountains/taiaroa-pk/south-pk/south-face/west-couloir", "name": "West Couloir", "grade": null, "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Lindsay Stewart, Jim Dakin, Jack Warren, December 1937" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/fiordland/darran-mountains/taiaroa-pk/south-pk/south-face/original-route", "name": "Original Route", "grade": null, "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "On the South face. \r\nAn easy scramble up a left-slanting groove and across ledges to the South Peak." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Murray Judge, Dave Begg, Hugh Logan, Andrew Smith, 1974." }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/fiordland/darran-mountains/taiaroa-pk/south-pk/south-face/liquid-toasted-sandwich", "name": "Liquid Toasted Sandwich", "grade": "21", "topo_ref": "2", "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": true, "ewbank": "15", "description": "On the South face. \r\nStarting at a large pyramidal block with a flat top in the centre of the south face. \r\n1-2) 15, 45m. Get to top of pyramidal block." }, { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": true, "ewbank": "21", "description": "3) 21. Head straight up from the right-hand side of the block in a fist sized crack until it becomes possible to traverse 5m left across a steep slab to the top of a large detached pillar. Head directly above the pillar to pull through the left-hand side of a short roof." }, { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": true, "ewbank": "21", "description": "4) 21. Technical climbing trending up and right through thin cracks. Obvious and comfy belay at bollard on top of broken pillar" }, { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": true, "ewbank": "15", "description": "5-8) 15. Head up and right and follow weaknesses to where it becomes easy enough to unrope. An easy scramble would get you to the summit. A little vegetated but worth it.\r\nDescend to the snowfields in the Te Puoho then over Crampon Pass." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": true, "description": null, "ascent": "Jonathon Clearwater, Thomas Evans, Feb, 2005." } ], "places": [], "image": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/wide/public/image/D78.jpg?itok=zoTzaja7", "images": [ { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/wide/public/image/D78.jpg?itok=zoTzaja7", "height": "510", "width": "320" } ] } ], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/c58dhau-landsborough/hooker-range/tekoe": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/c58dhau-landsborough/hooker-range/tekoe", "name": "Tekoe", "altitude": "2032m", "access": null, "description": "Visible from a long way down the Mahitahi valley over Mueller Pass as a great pyramid.", "latlng": [ "-43.771022", "169.848824" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/c58dhau-landsborough/hooker-range/tekoe/north-ridge", "name": "North Ridge", "grade": "1+,II", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": "0m", "pitches": [ { "alpine": "1+", "commitment": "II", "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": null } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": "0", "natural_pro": false, "description": "An easy amble from the saddle at Pt 1874m.", "ascent": "Marie Byles, Marjorie Edgar-Jones, Harry Ayres, Frank Alack, January 1935" } ], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/canterbury/craigieburn-range/mt-cheeseman": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/canterbury/craigieburn-range/mt-cheeseman", "name": "Mt Cheeseman", "altitude": "2031m", "access": null, "description": "tba", "latlng": [ "-43.169254", "171.643524" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/canterbury/craigieburn-range/mt-cheeseman/mt-cheeseman-mt-olympus-traverse", "name": "Mt Cheeseman to Mt Olympus Traverse", "grade": null, "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": "640m", "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": "640m", "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": null } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": "0", "natural_pro": false, "description": "\u201cMount Cheeseman\u201d Ski Area is actually on the south-east slopes of Mount Cockayne \u2013 a mountain named after Leonard Cockayne (1855-1934), a well-known botanist and conservationist. Cheeseman is a friendly little skifield, with 2 T-bar lifts, snow groomers and an on-snow accommodation lodge, and it\u2019s a good alternative to Mount Hutt when skiing from Christchurch. Cheeseman sell single T-bar ride tickets to the top of the skifield, giving good access to backcountry basins. There\u2019s a backcountry avalanche risk advisory board at the top of the lifts.\nThe large basin to the south of the ski area, in the headwaters of Tim\u2019s Stream, is known as \u201cTarn Basin\u201d, and is popular with skiers and boarders going out from the ski area. There are good turns to be had from the top of the lifts (1840m) all the way down to the 1500 metre level, or lower. Many people ski only as far as the frozen tarn at 1620 metre elevation, before returning to the ski area via a small col on the intervening ridge at 1760m.\nTo head towards Olympus and the Ryton Valley, tour south-west 2\u00bd km along the ridge to the peak of Mount Cheeseman itself (2030m) in 75 to 90 minutes. Beware of cornices that often form on the eastern side of this ridge. There\u2019s a good run off point 1950 east down into Tarn Basin, and also a nice basin to the west (the headwaters of Hut Creek), which sees a lot less traffic than Tarn Basin.\nFrom the top of Mount Cheeseman itself, you look south-west into the undulating slopes of the upper Ryton Valley. Ski off the peak into the Ryton for 150 vertical metres, and then traverse to the skier\u2019s right (west) to reach the central gully of the Ryton, which often holds lovely powder snow. This gully is a nice consistent 20\u00ba gradient down to flats at the 1420m level, i.e. a 600 vertical metre run from the top of Mt Cheeseman. 75-90 minutes skinning back to the top for another run down. You can spend a whole day here cutting fresh tracks and return to the Cheeseman ski area, or go on to the Mount Olympus ski area.\nTo Mt Olympus ski area from the peak of Mount Cheeseman, it is easy travel west on the ridge towards spot elevation 1836, and then across a broad saddle and then a gradual 200m climb SW onto the north shoulder of Mount Olympus at about 2000m. Depending upon snow cover, it\u2019s a ski traverse or it may be a walk on rocky slopes to get around to the west ridge of Mt Olympus, where snow slopes lead down to the upper basins of Mt Olympus ski area. (Windwhistle Winter Sports Club). 7\u00bdkm or around 3 hours from skifield to skifield direct.", "ascent": null }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/canterbury/craigieburn-range/mt-cheeseman/mt-cheeseman-mt-enys-traverse", "name": "Mt Cheeseman to Mt Enys Traverse", "grade": null, "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": "900m", "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": "900m", "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": null } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": "0", "natural_pro": false, "description": "The ridgeline immediately south of Mt Cheeseman has a few rocky outcrops which interrupt progress, so drop into the upper Ryton for 150 vertical metres or so and regain the ridge near point 1959. Continue south along the ridge crest to Mt Izard (2019m), and Mt Cloudsley (2107m). From here to the summit of Mount Enys (2194m) the ridge is broader with easier travel. 8\u00bdkm or around 3\u20134 hours from the peak of Mt Cheeseman to Mt Enys.\nSkiing off Mt Cheeseman to the south-east takes you into the headwaters of Waterfall Creek for a ski descent of 500 metres or more. Similar basins exist to the south-east of Mt Izard (Long Creek) and Mt Cloudsley (Whitewater Stream). The climb back to the ridge should be straightforward. The slopes on the western side of the range, facing into the lower Ryton Valley, are often wind-blasted free of snow, or melted by the heat of the sun, and are usually only worth skiing in good mid winter conditions. Best travel is along the ridgeline, and if necessary sidling on the eastern side.", "ascent": null } ], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/canterbury-westland-alps/main-divide/mt-martius": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/canterbury-westland-alps/main-divide/mt-martius", "name": "Mt Martius", "altitude": "2031m", "access": null, "description": "Mt Martius is named on older maps, such as the 1962 NZAC map, but not the latest metric series. It is Pt 2031 metres, and has a big cairn on it.", "latlng": [ "-43.216061", "170.993013" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/main-divide-of-the-southern-alps/mt-martius/south-ridge", "name": "South Ridge", "grade": "1-", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "The ridge is gained from Lauper Stream." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "A B Griffin, H Nelson, A A Treolar, May 1934" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/main-divide-of-the-southern-alps/mt-martius/main-divide", "name": "Via Main Divide", "grade": "1", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "1", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "Climb small spurs directly east of Whitcombe Pass (see Access from Whitcombe Pass, previous\r\npage). The north ridge is straightforward, while the west ridge would provide a more interesting\r\nrock climb." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": null } ], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aspiring/main-divide/mt-bevan": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aspiring/main-divide/mt-bevan", "name": "Mt Bevan", "altitude": "2030m", "access": null, "description": "Bevan is not so much a climb as a glorious viewpoint. Still it is in the greater alps and not to be taken lightly. It was the scene of one of the most protracted and gruelling rescues in the region, a five day ordeal for a dozen men trapped on Bevan Col. The whole story can be read in the classic book Men Aspiring by Paul Powell.\nThe peak was first climbed by Dennis Leigh, Bill Walker, and Jock Sim, who filled in the rest of their afternoon after their first ascent of Avalanche on December 28, 1939 by racing down the Bonar to Bevan Col and on to Bevan, before returning to French Ridge via the Quarterdeck that evening.", "latlng": [ "-44.391727", "168.685872" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aspiring/main-divide/mt-bevan/bevan-col", "name": "From Bevan Col", "grade": "I,1", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": "I", "mtcook": "1", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "From Bevan Col easy snow and broken rock slopes lead direct to the summit. Tempting ledges leading around on to the North Face terminate on exposed rock and should be avoided by parties more interested in the view. The climb is unlikely to take more than an hour from the col." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": null }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aspiring/main-divide/mt-bevan/north-ridge", "name": "North Ridge", "grade": "I,1+", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": "0m", "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": "I", "mtcook": "1+", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": null } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": "0", "natural_pro": false, "description": "The ridge is gained from gravelly ledges leading up from the Bonar just above the icefall. Then a slabby ridge is followed which is straightforward although quite exposed, with a few small towers towards the top. The ridge takes about two hours, with five hours being necessary for the round trip from Colin Todd Hut.", "ascent": "Conway Powell, Russell Falconer, November 1969" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aspiring/main-divide/mt-bevan/south-west-ridge", "name": "South West Ridge", "grade": "I,1", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": "0m", "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": "I", "mtcook": "1", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "" } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": "0", "natural_pro": false, "description": "From Hector Col the South West Ridge is a straightforward mixed rock and snow climb, probably requiring about two hours from the col to the summit. Hector Col is reached using the Bevan Col route.", "ascent": "Jock Sim, Peter Sim, Jack Kerr, Ian Johnstone, December 1939" } ], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/arthurs-pass/black-range/mt-damfool": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/arthurs-pass/black-range/mt-damfool", "name": "Mt Damfool", "altitude": "2030m", "access": null, "description": "A rock, scree and snow slope peak, climbed preferably from a high camp in the basins at the head of the Anti Crow River.", "latlng": [ "-43.01870552", "171.44130707" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/arthurs-pass/black-range/mt-damfool/anti-crow-river", "name": "From Anti Crow River", "grade": "1+", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "1+", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": null } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": "Climbed from high basins at the head of the Anti Crow River.", "ascent": null }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/arthurs-pass/black-range/mt-damfool/sunglasses-route", "name": "The Sunglasses Route", "grade": "12,2+", "topo_ref": "A", "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "2+", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": "12", "description": "This nine pitch route starts on the extreme right hand end of a large and obvious bench accessed from basin above the waterfalls at the head of the Anti-Crow River. It then follows through a short steep section then follows slabs angling left until on the main ar\u00eate. The rock is excellent; compact greywacke, great friction, but sparse protection available. From the top of the ar\u00eate the route follows an easy but broken ridge over a short step to main summit." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Andy Cole & Paul Stevens 2005" } ], "places": [], "image": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/wide/public/image/image03.jpg?itok=ia5C1nG6", "images": [ { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/wide/public/image/image03.jpg?itok=ia5C1nG6", "height": "360", "width": "480" } ] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/%C5%8Dhau-landsborough/elcho%E2%80%93huxley-mountains/pt-2030": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/%C5%8Dhau-landsborough/elcho%E2%80%93huxley-mountains/pt-2030", "name": "Pt 2030", "altitude": "2030m", "access": null, "description": "The second peak southeast of Mt Fraser along the ridge connecting with McNulty Pk.", "latlng": [ "-43.941479", "169.771729" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/c58dhau-landsborough/elchoe28093huxley-mountains/pt-2030/clink", "name": "Clink", "grade": "14,4+,IV", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": "500m", "pitches": [ { "alpine": "4+", "commitment": "IV", "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": "500m", "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": "14", "description": null } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": "0", "natural_pro": false, "description": "This all-rock route provides 500m of consistent grade 12\u201314 climbing. Descent is via the east ridge.", "ascent": "Bill McLeod, February 1994" } ], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/nelson-lakes-kaikc58dura/raglan-range/pt-2030": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/nelson-lakes-kaikc58dura/raglan-range/pt-2030", "name": "Pt 2030", "altitude": "2030m", "access": null, "description": null, "latlng": [ "-41.87933372", "173.0181512" ], "routes": [], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aspiring/main-divide/mt-dreadful": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aspiring/main-divide/mt-dreadful", "name": "Mt Dreadful", "altitude": "2030m", "access": null, "description": null, "latlng": [ "-44.13932", "169.001421" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aspiring/main-divide/mt-dreadful/high-peak", "name": "High Peak", "grade": null, "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "The high peak in the centre is climbed via the ridge from the Siberia Valley. There are extensive slabs on this ridge." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "J W Aitken, E Miller, J Gillespie & F Wilkinson, Jan 1945." }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aspiring/main-divide/mt-dreadful/south-peak", "name": "South Peak", "grade": null, "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "The south peak has been climbed by traversing from the centre peak." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "N Canham & D Fowler, Dec 1958." } ], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/arthurs-pass/craigieburn-range/pt-2029": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/arthurs-pass/craigieburn-range/pt-2029", "name": "Pt 2029", "altitude": "2029m", "access": null, "description": "Above Porter Heights Ski Area", "latlng": [ "-43.250704", "171.641035" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/arthurs-pass/craigieburn-range/pt-2029/porter-heights-back-basins-ski-touring", "name": "PORTER HEIGHTS BACK BASINS, Ski Touring.", "grade": null, "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "Grade 1/2\t\t\t\t300 metres plus\r\nDrive to Porter Heights skifield and consult the ski patrol about back country snow conditions. Porter Height sell a single ride to the top of their lifts for a modest $5. Backcountry skiers are requested to start early (8am) to make use of this single-ride offer.\r\nFrom the top of the highest T-bar, ski out along the snowcat trail to the north (signposted as \u201cAdrian\u2019s Highway\u201d to McNulty\u2019s Basin) for a short way down to a col then put on skins to climb north along the range to point elevations 1997 and 1981, to reach point 2029. A straightforward 3km distance, and 300 metres height gain, from the ski area - roughly 90 minutes travel. \r\nBetween 1997 and 2029, to your right (east), you look down to a broad snow basin, Crystal Valley, where runs of up to 700 vertical metres can be taken. After good snowfalls in winter down to 1000m, dedicated skiers can ski all the way from point 2029 down to the Porter Heights road, up to 1000 vertical metres of skiing, with perhaps a kilometre of walking at the end.\r\nThere are good ski basins on the other side of the ridge (the headwaters of the Goldney River) although being north-west facing, they may not always have a good snow cover. From point 1997 a steep gully descends north-west. The climb back up again is just as steep! Also from point 1981 a nice gully descends north to about 1500m elevation.\r\nSouth Face descends from the Blue Hill peak down towards Coleridge Pass to the south. Divert eastwards at about 1350 metres and ski (and walk if necessary) back to the Porter Heights road. This south-facing slope is very exposed to the winds that blow through the pass, so it can be extremely icy at times." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": null } ], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/canterbury-westland-alps/cloudy-peak-range/veil-pk": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/canterbury-westland-alps/cloudy-peak-range/veil-pk", "name": "Veil Pk", "altitude": "2028m", "access": null, "description": null, "latlng": [ "-43.372925", "170.692005" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/canterbury/cloudy-peak-range/veil-pk/havelock-river", "name": "From Havelock River", "grade": "1", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "1", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "" } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": "From the Havelock River climb directly up on to the western slopes, aiming for the west ridge. A 20-metre wall on the ridge can be turned or bypassed by climbing a steep chimney. A second step is easily sidled to the south on snow.", "ascent": "Dave Worboys, Colin Dalziel, Roger Lloyd, Dave Gobey, December 1963" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/canterbury/cloudy-peak-range/veil-pk/veil-stream", "name": "From Veil Stream", "grade": "1", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "1", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "" } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": "A 900-metre slog from Veil Stream leads to Orb Col. From the basin below the col several options exist to reach the summit.", "ascent": "Peter Bain, Russell Pearce, Bruce Graham, Peter Gourdie, December 1950" } ], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/mcclimont-peak": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/mcclimont-peak", "name": "McClimont Pk", "altitude": "2028m", "access": null, "description": null, "latlng": [ "-44.43509341", "168.30623591" ], "routes": [], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aspiring/west-wanaka-mountains/mt-vesta": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aspiring/west-wanaka-mountains/mt-vesta", "name": "Mt Vesta", "altitude": "2027m", "access": null, "description": null, "latlng": [ "-44.24337462", "168.92573345" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aspiring/west-wanaka-mountains/mt-vesta/original-route", "name": "Original Route", "grade": null, "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "Just south of the Wonderland entrance, climb a boulder creek bed and through bush to the ridge. Has also been climbed from the hanging valley to the west." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "J W Butchers, L Adkins, B Cahill, W E Wilson, W Hart, R Diedrich & J K Nicholls, Dec 1929." } ], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/nelson-lakes-kaik%C5%8Dura/acheron%E2%80%93waihopai-mountains/severn": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/nelson-lakes-kaik%C5%8Dura/acheron%E2%80%93waihopai-mountains/severn", "name": "Severn", "altitude": "2027m", "access": null, "description": null, "latlng": [ "-42.07920252", "173.06651421" ], "routes": [], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/2026": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/2026", "name": "Pt 2026", "altitude": "2026m", "access": null, "description": null, "latlng": [ "-44.14462204", "169.09142335" ], "routes": [], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/2025": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/2025", "name": "Pt 2025", "altitude": "2025m", "access": null, "description": null, "latlng": [ "-44.20577339", "169.41929148" ], "routes": [], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/2024": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/2024", "name": "Pt 2024", "altitude": "2024m", "access": null, "description": null, "latlng": [ "-44.85978699", "168.19987788" ], "routes": [], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/mt-turnbull": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/mt-turnbull", "name": "Mt Turnbull", "altitude": "2024m", "access": null, "description": "Candlesticks", "latlng": [ "-42.85219525", "172.05533852" ], "routes": [], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/law-peak-se": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/law-peak-se", "name": "Pt 2023", "altitude": "2023m", "access": null, "description": null, "latlng": [ "-43.88480956", "169.38246723" ], "routes": [], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/main-divide-of-the-southern-alps/mt-kensington": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/main-divide-of-the-southern-alps/mt-kensington", "name": "Mt Kensington", "altitude": "2023m", "access": null, "description": null, "latlng": [ "-43.075032", "171.168966" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/main-divide-of-the-southern-alps/mt-kensington/main-divide-ridges", "name": "Main Divide Ridges", "grade": null, "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "A bump on the ridge, easily traversed once the Main Divide has been reached." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Roger Chester, Alan Willis, John Pascoe, December 1930" } ], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/jane-peak": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/jane-peak", "name": "Jane Pk", "altitude": "2022m", "access": null, "description": "Eyre Mountains", "latlng": [ "-45.3281562", "168.32333026" ], "routes": [], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/2022": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/2022", "name": "Pt 2022", "altitude": "2022m", "access": null, "description": null, "latlng": [ "-41.95639796", "173.71778363" ], "routes": [], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/arthurs-pass/black-range/cow-pk": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/arthurs-pass/black-range/cow-pk", "name": "Cow Pk", "altitude": "2022m", "access": null, "description": "A rock, scree and snow slope peak, climbed preferably from a high camp in the basins at the head of the Anti Crow River.", "latlng": [ "-43.02165486", "171.43864632" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/arthurs-pass/black-range/cow-pk/anti-crow-river", "name": "From Anti Crow River", "grade": "1", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": "1", "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": null } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": "Climb the ridge from Gizeh Col.", "ascent": null }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/arthurs-pass/black-range/cow-pk/avoca-river", "name": "From Avoca River", "grade": "1", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "1", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "A straightforward climb if care is taken to avoid a deep gash in the ridge." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": null } ], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/darrans/earl-mountains/mt-park": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/darrans/earl-mountains/mt-park", "name": "Mt Park", "altitude": "2020m", "access": null, "description": null, "latlng": [ "-44.808593", "167.983441" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/darrans/earl-mountains/mt-park/original-route", "name": "Original Route", "grade": null, "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "Climbed via Students Peak." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Bill Grave, George Moir, Bob Sinclair, Ken Roberts, Harry Slater, 1925" } ], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/canterbury/rolleston-range/turret-pk": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/canterbury/rolleston-range/turret-pk", "name": "Turret Pk", "altitude": "2020m", "access": null, "description": null, "latlng": [ "-43.17952", "171.302433" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/canterbury/rolleston-range/turret-pk/west-ridge", "name": "West Ridge", "grade": "1+", "topo_ref": "WR", "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "1+", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "Follow Chimera Creek and climb the scree slide that leads to a big basin south-west of the\r\nsummit of Turret Peak. Climb scree on to the West Ridge and scramble to the top, avoiding\r\ndifficulties on the west side of the ridge and negotiating a short notch and cheval some distance\r\nbelow the top." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "John Robertson, Hugh Wright, H D Bedford, December 1912" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/canterbury/rolleston-range/turret-pk/north-east-ridge", "name": "North East Ridge", "grade": "2-", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "2-", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "Follow Kakapo Stream and, after a couple of kilometres, pass a 10-metre waterfall on the true\r\nleft and make a 500-metre bushbash above a small gorge. A longer route involves climbing the\r\nridge south of Kakapo Stream and dropping down into the upper basin west of Mt Gideon.\r\nContinue upstream to the tarns north of Pt 1731 metres and from here gain the ridge between\r\nPt 1921 metres and Turret Peak. Follow a steep shelf on the north side of the ridge to avoid\r\ngendarmes, and then climb a gully that approaches the summit directly.\r\nAn alternative access, Boulderstone Stream, offers easy travel to the upper forks from the\r\nWilberforce River. Easy travel continues up the true left branch, climbing out to Pt 1611 metres\r\nand sidling around to Pt 1731 metres." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": null } ], "places": [], "image": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/wide/public/image/Turret.png?itok=2LH55Rx2", "images": [ { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/wide/public/image/Turret.png?itok=2LH55Rx2", "height": "544", "width": "900" } ] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/2020": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/2020", "name": "Pt 2020", "altitude": "2020m", "access": null, "description": null, "latlng": [ "-44.20474705", "169.3579891" ], "routes": [], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/canterbury/rolleston-range/turret-pk-0": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/canterbury/rolleston-range/turret-pk-0", "name": "Turret Pk", "altitude": "2020m", "access": null, "description": null, "latlng": [ "-43.17927676", "171.30232752" ], "routes": [], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aspiring/west-wanaka-mountains/homestead-pk": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aspiring/west-wanaka-mountains/homestead-pk", "name": "Homestead Pk", "altitude": "2020m", "access": "Access to head of Rob Roy Stream and climbing routes.\nAbove the bushline continue on the true left bank of Rob Roy Stream through light scrub and tussock, keeping 100m above the stream. After crossing a washed-out stream bed follow around terraces until a small silty flat is reached. From here find a convenient place to descend to the avalanche-threatened Rob Roy Glacier.\nDuring the summer the avalanche hazard comes from the glaciers above and in the winter from large gullies dropping from Homestead Peak. A broad spur to the left of the large gully dropping from Homestead Peak is then climbed which ends up merging with the snowfield underneath the Homestead Peak and Rob Roy Col.", "description": "Named in recognition of the hospitality of the Aspinall Family of Mt Aspiring Station. Homestead Peak was first climbed by Paul Powell, Owen Wye and Geoff Harrow in December 1952. They climbed the South East Ridge, partly as an exercise in keeping warm, after a stormy night had put paid to their attempt on the unclimbed East Ridge of Rob Roy. Nine years later circumstances were similar when Peter Strang, John McKinnon, Jim Milne and Graham Bishop, also with eyes on the still-virgin ridge of Rob Roy, briefly escaped from a saturated tent to snatch a new traverse of Homestead Peak by the North West and South West Ridges. In 1968 Brian Cleugh and Jack Coker after admirable persistence finally climbed the long sawtoothed South West Ridge leading to the South Peak.", "latlng": [ "-44.46370147", "168.764381" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aspiring/west-wanaka-mountains/homestead-pk/east-matukituki-river", "name": "From East Matukituki River", "grade": "1,I", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": "0m", "pitches": [ { "alpine": "1", "commitment": "I", "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": null } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": "0", "natural_pro": false, "description": "Cross the West Matukituki at Cameron Flat to start up the hill immediately behind the old homestead of Mount Aspiring Station, on the south side of Homestead Creek. The South East Ridge is gained above the head of the creek and is a straightforward rock climb the summit. From Cameron Flat to the summit would require from seven to eight hours.", "ascent": null }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aspiring/matukituki-river-east-branch/homestead-pk/rob-roy-stream", "name": "From Rob Roy Stream", "grade": "2,I", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": "0m", "pitches": [ { "alpine": "2", "commitment": "I", "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": null } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": "0", "natural_pro": false, "description": "From Rob Roy Stream access the gentle snowfields in the head of Rob Roy Stream. These give easy access to the North West and South West Ridges, which are both very straightforward rock climbs on rather loose rock. Each ridge takes about one hour from the head of the snowfield.", "ascent": null } ], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/westland/butler-range/point-2020": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/westland/butler-range/point-2020", "name": "Pt 2020", "altitude": "2020m", "access": null, "description": "na", "latlng": [ "-43.436779", "170.415545" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/westland/butler-range/point-2020/butler-river-south-branch", "name": "From Butler River South Branch", "grade": "1", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "1", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "Ascend a snow gully that leads directly to the col between Pt 2198 metres and Pt 2020 metres.\r\nA short scramble leads to the broad snow summit." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Mike Andrews, Ross Eden, Philip Paton, 31 January 1979" } ], "places": [], "image": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/wide/public/image/SthButler_0.png?itok=6ofi0rYc", "images": [ { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/wide/public/image/SthButler_0.png?itok=6ofi0rYc", "height": "476", "width": "900" } ] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aspiring/harris-mountains/niger-pk": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aspiring/harris-mountains/niger-pk", "name": "Niger Pk", "altitude": "2018m", "access": null, "description": null, "latlng": [ "-44.523029", "168.845148" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aspiring/harris-mountains/niger-pk/matukituki-river", "name": "From Matukituki River", "grade": "1,I", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": "0m", "pitches": [ { "alpine": "1", "commitment": "I", "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": null } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": "0", "natural_pro": false, "description": "Niger Peak is an easy scramble from the road, either by the South East Ridge from just north of Leaping Burn or by the tussock slopes south of Niger Stream. The climb would take about four to five hours from the road to the summit.", "ascent": null }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aspiring/harris-mountains/niger-pk/cardrona-cafe-girls", "name": "Cardrona Cafe Girls", "grade": "WI2", "topo_ref": "1", "image": null, "images": [], "length": "100m", "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": "WI2", "mixed": null, "length": "100m", "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "This route is on the South side of Niger Peak above the Matuktuki Station,\r\n\r\nR Ewing\u2019s property and can be seen from the Matukituki road, on a line of bluffs overlooking the gorge of Niger Stream. It takes about three hours to reach the base of the route via a sheep track on the true right of Niger Stream. This track wends its way under a line of bluffs and comes out above the gorge. Cross the stream and head up and through scrappy bush to reach the bottom of the route. The alpine scrub getting to the bottom of the route is jungle like and time consuming.\r\n\r\nCardrona Cafe Girls is the right hand line and is about two pitches in length. The crux is at half height and is a small vertical step. If this is wet and dripping a detour can be made out right via an interesting section of mixed frozen tussock and blobs of ice. The slopes above appear to be active avalanche zones. If there is any doubt about stability perhaps rappeling the route would be a good idea. There is good bouldering and a small beautiful chandelier in the clearing above the stream gorge." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Allan Uren, July 1991." } ], "places": [], "image": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/wide/public/image/NigerPeak_fmt.jpeg?itok=DtxJrGVS", "images": [ { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/wide/public/image/NigerPeak_fmt.jpeg?itok=DtxJrGVS", "height": "237", "width": "320" } ] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/canterbury-westland-alps/lord-range/mueller-pk": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/canterbury-westland-alps/lord-range/mueller-pk", "name": "Mueller Pk", "altitude": "2018m", "access": null, "description": "An iron trig was placed on Mueller Peak by George Roberts and Dan Strachan in about 1880.", "latlng": [ "-43.231321", "170.838261" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/canterbury-westland-alps/lord-range/mueller-pk/camp-saddle", "name": "From Camp Saddle", "grade": "1", "topo_ref": "CS", "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "1", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "From Camp Saddle follow moderate snow gullies to the top.\r\nCamp Saddle named by JG Roberts, 1880s." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": null } ], "places": [], "image": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/wide/public/image/MuellerPk.png?itok=wWnKUvJl", "images": [ { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/wide/public/image/MuellerPk.png?itok=wWnKUvJl", "height": "718", "width": "900" } ] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/queenstown/tapuae-o-uenuku-hector-mountains/pt-2017": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/queenstown/tapuae-o-uenuku-hector-mountains/pt-2017", "name": "Pt 2017", "altitude": "2017m", "access": "From Wye Creek Saddle ski down and the peak is across the basin on the true left side.", "description": null, "latlng": [ "-45.086066", "168.835144" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/queenstown/tapuae-o-uenuku-hector-mountains/pt-2017/savanna-biches", "name": "Savanna Bi*ches", "grade": "M3", "topo_ref": null, "image": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/routes/IMG-1366.jpg?itok=oo0t_A3z", "images": [ { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/routes/IMG-1366.jpg?itok=oo0t_A3z", "height": "244", "width": "325" }, { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/routes/IMG-1280.jpg?itok=j3UI9_8V", "height": "244", "width": "325" }, { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/routes/563F38D6-F993-41C4-86BB-A35A4AC88623.JPG?itok=zbKkyYTZ", "height": "244", "width": "325" }, { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/routes/A4BB2C6C-FF0A-46B1-AF5E-3305D0BAE1F3.JPG?itok=33Yrb90G", "height": "325", "width": "325" }, { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/routes/3642314E-CE62-49E6-9A5A-88236680090F.JPG?itok=0wmzQ9Fw", "height": "244", "width": "325" }, { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/routes/5DEBEB1D-65E7-4D97-9C74-ED29EFC5595C.JPG?itok=_Za3EN8B", "height": "244", "width": "325" } ], "length": "120m", "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": "M3", "length": "120m", "bolts": null, "trad": true, "ewbank": null, "description": null } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": true, "description": "Approx. 120m M2-M3. Last pitch 10m M3 rocky section. A lot of good turfs, logical line with good protection.", "ascent": "FFA Veronika Vlcekova, Vladimir Suraba. August 2020" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/queenstown/tapuae-o-uenuku-hector-mountains/pt-2017/mirage-gully", "name": "Mirage gully", "grade": "M3", "topo_ref": null, "image": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/routes/IMG-1366_0.jpg?itok=XaIgvNev", "images": [ { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/routes/IMG-1366_0.jpg?itok=XaIgvNev", "height": "244", "width": "325" }, { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/routes/AFE11A09-B743-4350-A757-C8CF2487A252_postcard.jpg?itok=OQV1BNFo", "height": "244", "width": "325" } ], "length": "100m", "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": "M3", "length": "100m", "bolts": null, "trad": true, "ewbank": null, "description": null } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": true, "description": "Gully on the left from Savanna bi*ches. Good steep snow with last 5m rocky section M2-M3. Approx. 100m.", "ascent": "FFA Vlado Suraba, August 2020" } ], "places": [], "image": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/wide/public/image/IMG-1251.jpg?itok=XzbGdQab", "images": [ { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/wide/public/image/IMG-1251.jpg?itok=XzbGdQab", "height": "818", "width": "1090" } ] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/darrans/earl-mountains/triangle-pk": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/darrans/earl-mountains/triangle-pk", "name": "Triangle Pk", "altitude": "2017m", "access": null, "description": null, "latlng": [ "-44.88245321", "168.01161245" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/darrans/earl-mountains/triangle-pk/south-face", "name": "South Face", "grade": null, "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": "From the lower Hut Creek flats follow a large stream issuing from a gully under the South Face of Triangle. Climb the true right ridge of this gully for 100m. The ridge is quite exposed and steep with very thin tussock to hold onto, but eases off to tussock benches which are followed up and left to the south west ridge; on the far side easy scree leads all the way to the summit.", "ascent": "Harold Jacobs, Sandy Macpherson, December 1963" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/darrans/earl-mountains/triangle-pk/original-route", "name": "Original Route", "grade": null, "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": "From the Mistake Creek track climb the steep watercourse leading onto scree and snowgrass slopes below the summit. Traverse across onto the north-west ridge and climb this.", "ascent": "Bill Blee, Bill Gordon, 13 March 1955" } ], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/main-divide-of-the-southern-alps/mt-fitzgerald": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/main-divide-of-the-southern-alps/mt-fitzgerald", "name": "Mt Fitzgerald", "altitude": "2017m", "access": null, "description": "na", "latlng": [ "-42.982109", "171.267929" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/main-divide-of-the-southern-alps/mt-fitzgerald/south-west-ridge", "name": "South West Ridge", "grade": null, "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "A long ridge when climbed from Clarkes Pass." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "G C T Burns, R J Allen, Neville Barker, Charles Gordon Buchanan, December 1934" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/main-divide-of-the-southern-alps/mt-fitzgerald/north-east-ridge", "name": "North East Ridge", "grade": null, "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "From the head of Griffiths Glacier the ridge presents few problems." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": null } ], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aspiring/humboldt-mountains/pt-2016": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aspiring/humboldt-mountains/pt-2016", "name": "Pt 2016", "altitude": "2016m", "access": "Via the Glacier Burn track.", "description": "Located north-east of Mt Bonpland between the Glacier Burn and Turner Creek valleys.", "latlng": [ "-44.815637", "168.292694" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aspiring/humboldt-mountains/pt-2016/south-face-central-gully", "name": "South Face, Central Gully", "grade": "WI3,M4", "topo_ref": null, "image": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/route/11391234_10153377630952387_7933223856479953911_n.jpg?itok=yde-XwkX", "images": [ { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/route/11391234_10153377630952387_7933223856479953911_n.jpg?itok=yde-XwkX", "height": "325", "width": "196" }, { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/route/11252561_10153377639197387_4097068061934818755_n.jpg?itok=mCT_4EkH", "height": "218", "width": "325" } ], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": "WI3", "mixed": "M4", "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": null } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": "WI3- M4\nShort walk to the head of the Glacier Burn valley where a fairly obvious line\ngoes up the South Face of Pt 2016. Climbed over two years ago so hazy on the\ndetails...but this fine ice & mixed day trip is likely worthy of stars. Start\nup WI3- ice; a direct start (~WI4) also looks possible. The middle part\ninvolves your choice of climbing an ice smear or campussing tussock... A\nright-to-left ramp then takes you from the upper part of the climb to near\nthe summit. From the top it's a cruisey walk east towards the saddle near Pt\n1653 and an easy couloir back to the Glacier Burn.", "ascent": "Andrew Finnigan," } ], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/fiordland/darran-mountains/bobs-buttress": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/fiordland/darran-mountains/bobs-buttress", "name": "Bobs Buttress", "altitude": "2015m", "access": null, "description": "The prominent pointy peak to the east of Adelaide.", "latlng": [ "-44.748034", "168.063339" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/fiordland/darran-mountains/bobs-buttress/north-face", "name": "North face", "grade": "15", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": true, "ewbank": "15", "description": "6 pitches. Takes a line up the slabs." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": true, "description": null, "ascent": "Jo Kippax, Sean Waters, Dec 1992." }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/fiordland/darran-mountains/bobs-buttress/something-simply-starry", "name": "Something Simply Starry", "grade": null, "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "3 pitch route on the prominent ar\u00eate just west of Bobs Buttress peak." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Jo Kippax, Sean Waters, Dec 1992." } ], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/fiordland/darran-mountains/little-matterhorn": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/fiordland/darran-mountains/little-matterhorn", "name": "Little Matterhorn", "altitude": "2015m", "access": null, "description": "Climbed from Milford Sound", "latlng": [ "-44.585464", "167.879154" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/fiordland/darran-mountains/little-matterhorn/original-route", "name": "Original Route", "grade": null, "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Jack Ede, Brian Fineran, Colin Fearon, Ron Chapman, Dec 1961." } ], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/kohurau": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/kohurau", "name": "Kohurau", "altitude": "2015m", "access": null, "description": null, "latlng": [ "-44.80396484", "170.32531734" ], "routes": [], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/mt-patriach": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/mt-patriach", "name": "Mt Patriarch", "altitude": "2015m", "access": null, "description": null, "latlng": [ "-44.25663081", "169.37486121" ], "routes": [], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/fiordland/darran-mountains/mt-pembroke": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/fiordland/darran-mountains/mt-pembroke", "name": "Mt Pembroke", "altitude": "2015m", "access": "To climb the South Face and Lippe Couloir routes you must first reach the upper hanging valley of Pembroke Creek. Follow Pembroke Creek from its junction with the Harrison River to the falls. From the falls climb up the true left of the gorge through steep but open bush to gain the upper valley and continue along the river until reaching the rock slabs at the head of the valley. There are possible bivvy sites on the lower slabs. To gain the upper cirque climb tussock slopes on the true right above the first cliff and then drop down to reach the snow in the cirque just below the south face.", "description": "Darran Mountains", "latlng": [ "-44.56767527", "167.88577726" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/fiordland/darran-mountains/mt-pembroke/south-face", "name": "South Face", "grade": null, "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "Ascend the bluffs at the head of Pembroke Creek and follow snowfields to the summit." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Ray Slater, Murray Bolt, Nov 1974." }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/fiordland/darran-mountains/mt-pembroke/lippe-couloir", "name": "Lippe Couloir", "grade": null, "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "Early in the season it is possible to climb a large snow gully directly to the couloir from above the main waterfall and then continue to the East Ridge. Bluffs are exposed by the melting snowfields later in the season, after which it is possible to reach the couloir by climbing tussock slopes above the main waterfall on the true right and traversing across and down to the base of the couloir. From where the Lippe Couloir joins the East Ridge scramble through a few short rock steps to the summit." } ], "quality": 1, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Bill Grave, Arthur Talbot, Jack Lippe, Dec 1913." }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/fiordland/darran-mountains/mt-pembroke/east-ridge", "name": "East Ridge", "grade": null, "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "Climb the full length of the East Ridge from the confluence of the Harrison River and Pembroke Creek." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Brian Wilkins, Graham Ellis, Davison, Sherwood, 1956." }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/fiordland/darran-mountains/mt-pembroke/east-face", "name": "East Face", "grade": null, "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "Access to the east face is via the first unnamed valley beyond Wairereata Falls on the true right." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "No recorded ascent" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/fiordland/darran-mountains/mt-pembroke/dale-point-ridge", "name": "Dale Point Ridge", "grade": null, "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "Follow the ridge from Dale Point to the summit.\r\nDale Point, at the entrance to Milford Sound, can only be reached by boat with a landing onto rocks that can be tricky in a heavy swell. A trail was marked in the 1960's but has probably now disappeared. A long ascent requiring several attempts." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Jack Ede, Brian Fineran, Colin Benton, Ron Chapman, Dec 1961." }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/fiordland/darran-mountains/mt-pembroke/pembroke-thurso-creek", "name": "Pembroke from Thurso Creek", "grade": null, "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "Land at Thurso Creek. Ascend the West Face." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Jack Murrell, Bev Noble, Mar 1978." }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/fiordland/darran-mountains/mt-pembroke/north-ridge", "name": "North Ridge", "grade": null, "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": "Follow the rocky ridge up from the north col (lowest point in the range north\nfrom Mt Pembroke); mostly exposed scrambling but a couple of short rock steps\n(grade 12-13).", "ascent": "Grant Dixon, Ian Brown, Feb 2016. On the first ascent, the north ridge was climbed as part of a traverse of the mountain, ascending to the north col from the Thurso River and descending the east ridge." } ], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/canterbury-westland-alps/butler-range/pt-2014": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/canterbury-westland-alps/butler-range/pt-2014", "name": "Pt 2014", "altitude": "2014m", "access": null, "description": null, "latlng": [ "-43.39351", "170.512276" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/canterbury-westland-alps/butler-range/pt-2014/hughes-creek", "name": "From Hughes Creek", "grade": "1", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "1", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "The Butler Range has also been approached from the Perth. An old cullers track up a scrubby\r\nspur east of Nolans Hut is now unfollowable. A route preferred by hunters these days uses\r\nPauline Creek to access the upper basins of Hughes Creek.\r\nHughes Creek itself can also be used directly. The creek can be followed right up, with a sidle\r\naround a gorge necessary between the 600- and 700-metre contours, and a rougher bouldery\r\nsection below the big fork at the 760-metre contour. Alternatively, the first marked creek on\r\nthe true right below the big fork offers relatively open travel through the scrub zone, leading\r\nup to Pt 1450 metres from the north-west and has also been used to access the upper basins of\r\nHughes Creek.\r\nIn the true right basin, about 300 metres up from forks at 980 metres, a reasonable bivvy rock\r\nis reported. To continue to the Butler Range, go up the gully opposite the bivvy rock until the\r\ncol east of Mt Whataroa is reached, then scramble up the ridge to 2014 metres. Mt Whataroa\r\ncan also be approached this way." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "I W Jeffery, M H Leete, H Beckett, December 1954" } ], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/main-divide-of-the-southern-alps/mt-ambrose": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/main-divide-of-the-southern-alps/mt-ambrose", "name": "Mt Ambrose", "altitude": "2014m", "access": null, "description": "na", "latlng": [ "-43.003768", "171.234369" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/main-divide-of-the-southern-alps/mt-ambrose/hokitika-saddle", "name": "From Hokitika Saddle", "grade": "1", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "1", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "A straightforward ascent from the vicinity of Hokitika Saddle. If approaching from Griffiths\r\nStream, then before reaching Hokitika Saddle follow a steep couloir leading to a bench below\r\nPt 1853 metres. Alternatively, follow the ridge north from Hokitika Saddle. From here cross easy\r\nglaciated slopes to the summit." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "G C T Burns, R J Allen, Neville Barker, Charles Gordon Buchanan, December 1934" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/main-divide-of-the-southern-alps/mt-ambrose/browning-pass-mt-ambrose", "name": "Browning Pass to Mt Ambrose", "grade": null, "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "This is a great transalpine trip in fine weather. Many of the peaks and passes mentioned below are either traversed or easily accessible en route. From Lake Browning, descend west toward Hall Creek, sidling in on the Main Divide side and crossing two tiny gullies en route. Cross Hall Creek at about the 1240-metre contour above a small waterfall (the creek is confined below this) and continue up the valley, initially on the true right. There are some nice but open campsites on moss at about the 1280\u2013 metre contour. Gravel gives way to snow slopes that lead to Hall Col. An easy scrambling side trip on bedrock leads up to a flat-topped peak at Pt 1950 metres, where there are extensive views. To access the Retreat Snowfield, descend from the north-western corner of Hall Col. Continue down to the gravel moraine around Farquharson Saddle, a cool place to camp in fine weather. A small stream is usually flowing on gravel 100 metres north-east of Farquharson Saddle. Two routes lead to Griffiths Saddle, one using the upper gullies of Gifford Stream and the other the Main Divide ridge before sidling the last few hundred metres into the saddle. To approach Clarkes Pass from Griffiths Saddle, descend into Griffiths Stream and climb up to Clarkes Pass directly. It is tempting to keep height and sidle, but it is more messy than it looks. Active scree and loose, steep gullies of clay rock make travel arduous and unpleasant, and there is significant stone fall to watch for. South-west from Clarkes Pass, Commodore Peak is approached up snow slopes. The Divide just here is broad, with basins and outcropping shards of rock. Mt Ambrose is easily approached from Commodore Peak. From there, either descend to Hokitika Saddle, or else head north and west from Mt Ambrose down a gravel gully to the 1900-metre contour and then swing further west into a gravel basin draining towards the Kokatahi. This route then ascends a gravel and tussock basin back to the ridge at J34 652986 / BV19 552 370. Snow slopes lead to Pt 2006 metres, from where gravel slopes and bedrock lead easily north-west into the saddle before The Rampart. There is one small tarn 30 metres above the saddle on the way down. Allow two days from Browning Pass to Mt Ambrose in reasonable conditions. From this saddle (J34 642988 / BV19 542 372), a shallow gravel gully offers a good route down to join Park Stream about 200 metres up from Sokota Creek." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": null } ], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/mt-sebastopol": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/mt-sebastopol", "name": "Mt Sebastopol", "altitude": "2013m", "access": null, "description": null, "latlng": [ "-42.24749951", "172.87641196" ], "routes": [], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aspiring/west-wanaka-mountains/mt-juno": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aspiring/west-wanaka-mountains/mt-juno", "name": "Mt Juno", "altitude": "2012m", "access": null, "description": null, "latlng": [ "-44.226416", "168.930055" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aspiring/west-wanaka-mountains/mt-juno/north-ridge", "name": "North Ridge", "grade": "II,2", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": "II", "mtcook": "2", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "Ascended from bivvy near Lake Castalia. A steep rock scramble and traverse down the south-west rock ledges." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "G Wayatt, J Muir, D Thomas, H Burr, T Barringer, A Burns, L Day, J Elwin, A Brooks, C Buckland, December 1980" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aspiring/west-wanaka-mountains/mt-juno/iphegenia", "name": "From Iphegenia", "grade": null, "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "Traverse from Iphigenia." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "H D Ombler, R Webster, December 1945" } ], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aspiring/west-wanaka-mountains/mt-arne": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aspiring/west-wanaka-mountains/mt-arne", "name": "Mt Arne", "altitude": "2011m", "access": null, "description": null, "latlng": [ "-44.25494779", "168.9346902" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aspiring/west-wanaka-mountains/mt-arne/south-east-ridge", "name": "South East Ridge", "grade": "2,II", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": "0m", "pitches": [ { "alpine": "2", "commitment": "II", "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": null } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": "0", "natural_pro": false, "description": "Just south of the Wonderland entrance, climb a boulder creek bed and through bush to the ridge. Has also been climbed from the hanging valley to the west.", "ascent": "J W Butchers, L Adkins, B Cahill, W E Wilson, W Hart, R Diedrich, J K Nicholls, December 1929" } ], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aspiring/main-divide/pt-2010": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aspiring/main-divide/pt-2010", "name": "Pt 2010", "altitude": "2010m", "access": null, "description": "Above the Makarora River, southeast of Mt Kaye.", "latlng": [ "-44.1097794743", "169.411818712" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/main-divide-of-the-southern-alps/pt-2010/makarora-hut", "name": "From Makarora Hut", "grade": null, "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": "Up the Makarora River to the hut then west to Pts 1971 and 2010 on the Main Divide. Return via Boundary Spur.", "ascent": "Paul Hersey, Shelley Graham, Lydia Bradey, April 2006" } ], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/arthurs-pass/main-divide/carrington-pk": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/arthurs-pass/main-divide/carrington-pk", "name": "Carrington Pk", "altitude": "2010m", "access": null, "description": "Carrington Pk is an attractive peak seen from near the junction of the Waimakariri and White Rivers. It is a good climb from Waimakariri Falls Hut.", "latlng": [ "-42.91353491", "171.47014618" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/arthurs-pass/main-divide/carrington-pk/south-west-ridge", "name": "South West Ridge", "grade": "1,II", "topo_ref": "1", "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": "1", "commitment": "II", "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": null } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": "From the Waimakariri valley floor, follow the slope north of Campbell Creek\nup to the broad shoulder of the South West Ridge. Traverse it to the top or\nsidle across the south-east slopes and gain the ridge immediately below the\npeak. The final 100m of this ridge is very loose rock.", "ascent": null }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/arthurs-pass/main-divide/carrington-pk/north-ridge", "name": "North Ridge", "grade": "2,II", "topo_ref": "2", "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": "2", "commitment": "II", "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": null } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": "Climbed by following the prominent Y-shaped gully through the bluffs at the\nbase of the peak some 500m downstream of the Waimakariri Falls. This reaches\nthe easier slopes below the summit\u2019s North Ridge. The lower bluffs are very\nprone to rockfall.", "ascent": "C Hilgendorf, December 1924" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/arthurs-pass/main-divide/carrington-pk/main-divide-route", "name": "Main Divide Route", "grade": "1,I", "topo_ref": "3", "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": "1", "commitment": "I", "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": null } ], "quality": 1, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": "Climb to the Main Divide opposite the hut (ascend scree/snow slopes just\nnorth of the small side stream above the hut, then move across sidling true\nright and up), and traverse it southwards to the summit. A traverse to Mt\nArmstrong is an available option.", "ascent": null }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/arthurs-pass/main-divide/carrington-pk/carrington-armstrong-traverse", "name": "Carrington-Armstrong Traverse", "grade": "1,I", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": "1", "commitment": "I", "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": null } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": "On a good day this is well worth the effort. Ascend Carrington Pk, then the\nskyline traverse is a relatively straightforward affair. Descend easy slopes\noff Mt Armstrong to the col west of the rock bluffs.", "ascent": null } ], "places": [], "image": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/wide/public/image/HHH_Carrington_Pk.jpg?itok=9EPLnA3y", "images": [ { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/wide/public/image/HHH_Carrington_Pk.jpg?itok=9EPLnA3y", "height": "470", "width": "640" } ] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aspiring/main-divide/mt-doris": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aspiring/main-divide/mt-doris", "name": "Mt Doris", "altitude": "2010m", "access": null, "description": null, "latlng": [ "-44.12021866", "169.03674516" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aspiring/main-divide/mt-doris/governor%E2%80%99s-pass", "name": "From Governor\u2019s Pass", "grade": null, "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "Climbed from Governor\u2019s Pass at the head of the North Young." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "H C Gray, J K Skinner, M R Ellis & A R Craigie, Dec 1948." } ], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/c58dhau-landsborough/bare-rocky-range/mt-morse": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/c58dhau-landsborough/bare-rocky-range/mt-morse", "name": "Mt Morse", "altitude": "2009m", "access": null, "description": null, "latlng": [ "-43.682368", "169.787592" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/c58dhau-landsborough/bare-rocky-range/mt-morse/north-west-ridge", "name": "North West Ridge", "grade": "1+,II", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": "0m", "pitches": [ { "alpine": "1+", "commitment": "II", "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": null } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": "0", "natural_pro": false, "description": "From the Jumbo Creek confluence, head up through bush to the tops. From the outlier peak west of the true summit, the first ascentionists dubbed snow slopes on the south side of the ridge \u2018the Pacemaker\u2019.", "ascent": "Trevor McCann, Maurie Bishop, March 1952" } ], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/arthurs-pass/polar-range/mt-scott": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/arthurs-pass/polar-range/mt-scott", "name": "Mt Scott", "altitude": "2009m", "access": null, "description": "First ascended by J Gill, J Wilson and E Brough, December 1930.", "latlng": [ "-42.92711136", "171.6824913" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/arthurs-pass/polar-range/mt-scott/upper-edwards-valley", "name": "From Upper Edwards Valley", "grade": "1,I", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": "1", "commitment": "I", "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": null } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": "A scramble from the upper valley floor.", "ascent": "J Gill, J Wilson and E Brough, December 1930" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/arthurs-pass/polar-range/mt-scott/amber-col", "name": "From Amber Col", "grade": "1,I", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": "1", "commitment": "I", "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": null } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": "Reach Amber Col from the Edwards River by ascending the scrubby spur on the true right of the stream that drains it. Climb steeply from the col to join the Polar Range, then follow an easy ridge line to the summit of Mt Scott.", "ascent": null }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/arthurs-pass/polar-range/mt-scott/hawdon-hut", "name": "From Hawdon Hut", "grade": "1,I", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": "1", "commitment": "I", "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": null } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": "Climbed via Sudden Valley Stream by ascending the long ridge behind Hawdon Hut. Reaching the 1794m point, follow the Northwest Spur for 800m, climbing over several very exposed gendarmes to reach the long scree slope into the head of Sudden Valley. From here both peaks may be reached via the scree/snow gully between them. Allow 110% of all daylight hours if you intend returning to the Hawdon Valley.", "ascent": null }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/arthurs-pass/polar-range/mt-scott/sudden-valley-stream", "name": "From Sudden Valley Stream", "grade": "1,I", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": "1", "commitment": "I", "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": null } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": "A steep scree or snow slope between Mts Wilson and Scott gives good climbing access from the head of Sudden Valley Stream.", "ascent": null }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/arthurs-pass/polar-range/mt-scott/mt-wilson", "name": "Via Mt Wilson", "grade": "1,I", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": "1", "commitment": "I", "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": null } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": "From Sudden Valley Stream, the South East Ridge of Mt Wilson can be gained by ascending a steep scree gully 2km upstream of the Sudden Valley Biv. Aim for the deep notch just north of the 1853m point. Follow the ridge to Mt Wilson (the East Edwards side provides bypasses) and traverse to Mt Scott.", "ascent": null } ], "places": [], "image": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/wide/public/image/1-P3100056.JPG?itok=MXpQ0Sbe", "images": [ { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/wide/public/image/1-P3100056.JPG?itok=MXpQ0Sbe", "height": "551", "width": "900" }, { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/image/1-P3100045.JPG?itok=k3kGDy19", "height": "244", "width": "325" } ] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aspiring/main-divide/mt-taurus": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aspiring/main-divide/mt-taurus", "name": "Mt Taurus", "altitude": "2009m", "access": null, "description": null, "latlng": [ "-44.295248", "168.84016" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aspiring/main-divide/mt-taurus/waterfall-flat", "name": "From Waterfall Flat", "grade": "II,2", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": "II", "mtcook": "2", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "Climb to the prominent spur (exposed in parts) at the north end of Waterfall Flat, then cross the basin above to gain the northern slopes of Taurus." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "B Paterson, R Webster, Jan 1946." } ], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/canterbury/wild-mans-brother-range/wild-brother": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/canterbury/wild-mans-brother-range/wild-brother", "name": "Wild Brother", "altitude": "2009m", "access": null, "description": "Wild Mans Brother Range", "latlng": [ "-43.394376", "171.01729257" ], "routes": [], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aspiring/barrier-range/mt-nansen": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aspiring/barrier-range/mt-nansen", "name": "Mt Nansen", "altitude": "2009m", "access": null, "description": "tba", "latlng": [ "-44.496506", "168.40397" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aspiring/barrier-range/mt-nansen/chancellor", "name": "From Chancellor", "grade": null, "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "From Chancellor descend a rock couloir leading straight down on the Joe River side to a snow saddle from where easy snow slopes lead to the summit. An alternative is to cross under Chancellor from Frobisher and ascend from the south." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": null } ], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aspiring/barrier-range/chancellor": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aspiring/barrier-range/chancellor", "name": "Chancellor", "altitude": "2009m", "access": null, "description": "tba", "latlng": [ "-44.496751", "168.413068" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aspiring/barrier-range/chancellor/o%E2%80%99leary-pass", "name": "From O\u2019Leary Pass", "grade": null, "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "From O\u2019Leary Pass via Frobisher." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": null } ], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/mt-sutton": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/mt-sutton", "name": "Mt Sutton", "altitude": "2007m", "access": null, "description": null, "latlng": [ "-44.22959478", "169.76737113" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/mt-sutton/ohau-dumb-bell-lake-traverse", "name": "\u014chau to Dumb-bell Lake Traverse", "grade": null, "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": "450m", "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": "450m", "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": null } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": "0", "natural_pro": false, "description": "Dumb-bell Lake is on the \u014chau Range and may be accessed from the \u014chau Skifield. Discuss backcountry conditions with the ski patrol before setting off.\nAfter the skifield has shut at the end of the season, there may still be great skiing up there. Contact Lake \u014chau Lodge for permission to go up the skifield road, and a key to unlock the gate. Permission for access is not always given, so phone in advance. A road toll and additional security may be required.\nFrom the top of the lifts at \u014chau, climb steeply for about 15 minutes in boots to the top ridgeline, where there are excellent views down into the Maitland valley.\nSkin along the ridgeline to the south, just less than 2km, to Mount Sutton (2007m). To reach Dumb-bell Lake, either pick a steep line from near the summit, or swing around the peak\u2019s western shoulder (point 1942) to find easier slopes. After skiing in the basin that contains the lake, one may return to Ohau skifield via the way of access.\nAlternatively, there is a hut to stay in down in the Maitland valley. Maitland Hut is a four bunk DoC hut in the bush at 960m elevation (G38: 498605). Snowy Gorge Creek Hut (DoC, 5 bunks) may also be accessed via Dumb-bell Lake, and used as a base for the region (G38: 465531).", "ascent": null } ], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/2007": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/2007", "name": "Pt 2007", "altitude": "2007m", "access": null, "description": null, "latlng": [ "-42.32491407", "173.15650294" ], "routes": [], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/nelson-lakes-kaik%C5%8Dura/acheron%E2%80%93waihopai-mountains/pt-2007": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/nelson-lakes-kaik%C5%8Dura/acheron%E2%80%93waihopai-mountains/pt-2007", "name": "Pt 2007", "altitude": "2007m", "access": null, "description": null, "latlng": [ "-41.96286943", "173.22565402" ], "routes": [], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aspiring/west-wanaka-mountains/buchanan-pks": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aspiring/west-wanaka-mountains/buchanan-pks", "name": "Buchanan Pks", "altitude": "2004m", "access": null, "description": "Above the Matukituki River near Lake Wanaka.", "latlng": [ "-44.55219665", "168.96990982" ], "routes": [], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki/fox-glacier-te-moeka-o-tuawe/chancellor-dome": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki/fox-glacier-te-moeka-o-tuawe/chancellor-dome", "name": "Chancellor Dome", "altitude": "2004m", "access": null, "description": null, "latlng": null, "routes": [], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/canterbury/arrowsmith-range/peg-col": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/canterbury/arrowsmith-range/peg-col", "name": "Peg Col", "altitude": "2004m", "access": "Straightforward access to Jagged Stream. Bare ice may be present just below the col in summer.", "description": "na", "latlng": [ "-43.338164", "171.033096" ], "routes": [], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aspiring/humboldt-mountains/minos-pk": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aspiring/humboldt-mountains/minos-pk", "name": "Minos Pk", "altitude": "2002m", "access": null, "description": null, "latlng": [ "-44.62016328", "168.24725992" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aspiring/humboldt-mountains/minos-pk/north-west-ridge", "name": "North West Ridge", "grade": "2,II", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": "0m", "pitches": [ { "alpine": "2", "commitment": "II", "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": null } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": "0", "natural_pro": false, "description": "Accessible from Lake Unknown or Park Pass and the Park Glacier or Theatre Flat.", "ascent": null } ], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/mt-shrimpton": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/mt-shrimpton", "name": "Mt Shrimpton", "altitude": "2002m", "access": null, "description": null, "latlng": [ "-44.2374494", "169.28205215" ], "routes": [], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aspiring/mckerrow-range/west-teat": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aspiring/mckerrow-range/west-teat", "name": "West Teat", "altitude": "1999m", "access": null, "description": "tba", "latlng": [ "-44.3641838", "169.24521204" ], "routes": [], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/canterbury/torlesse-range/castle-hill-pk": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/canterbury/torlesse-range/castle-hill-pk", "name": "Castle Hill Pk", "altitude": "1998m", "access": null, "description": "Torlesse Range", "latlng": [ "-43.25818978", "171.76944944" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/canterbury/torlesse-range/castle-hill-pk/kowai-river", "name": "Kowai River", "grade": null, "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": "Park at the car park before Porters Pass and walk up Kowai River, past the huts to the base of the spur at -43.263081, 171.794887.\nFollow this spur up past the big rock and up the scree chute to the ridgeline between Castle Hill Pk and Pt1941.", "ascent": null }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/canterbury/torlesse-range/castle-hill-pk/foggy-peak", "name": "Via Foggy Peak", "grade": null, "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": "From the summit of Foggy Peak, follow the ridgeline to Castle Hill Peak", "ascent": null } ], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/c58dhau-landsborough/bare-rocky-range/mt-mcdonald": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/c58dhau-landsborough/bare-rocky-range/mt-mcdonald", "name": "Mt McDonald", "altitude": "1996m", "access": null, "description": null, "latlng": [ "-43.651138", "169.775335" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/c58dhau-landsborough/bare-rocky-range/mt-mcdonald/north-west-ridge", "name": "North West Ridge", "grade": "1,II", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": "0m", "pitches": [ { "alpine": "1", "commitment": "II", "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": null } ], "quality": 1, "bolts": "0", "natural_pro": false, "description": "A straightforward climb from the outlet of Lake Roto Te Koeti.", "ascent": "Nina Dickerhof, James Thornton (descended), November 2017" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/c58dhau-landsborough/bare-rocky-range/mt-mcdonald/south-east-ridge", "name": "South East Ridge", "grade": "1+,II", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": "0m", "pitches": [ { "alpine": "1+", "commitment": "II", "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": null } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": "0", "natural_pro": false, "description": "From the head of Jumbo Creek, gain the ridge up a gully at BX14 415 601. Climb to the 1500m contour and sidle left on easy ground before regaining the ridge.", "ascent": "Trevor McCann, Maurie Bishop, March 1952" } ], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aspiring/humboldt-mountains/mt-chaos": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aspiring/humboldt-mountains/mt-chaos", "name": "Mt Chaos", "altitude": "1995m", "access": null, "description": "First ascent by Jack Holloway 1947.", "latlng": [ "-44.61168041", "168.2662428" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aspiring/humboldt-mountains/mt-chaos/north-ridge", "name": "North Ridge", "grade": "2,I", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": "0m", "pitches": [ { "alpine": "2", "commitment": "I", "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": null } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": "0", "natural_pro": false, "description": "Park Glacier provides access to the long summit ridge which is traversed by passing the gendarme on either the Beans Burn side or the Lake Unknown side. Alternatively, from the head of Lake Unknown, ascend through basins to about 1920m then back along ridge. Ridge is quite narrow in places.", "ascent": null }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aspiring/humboldt-mountains/mt-chaos/south-ridge", "name": "South Ridge", "grade": "1,I", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": "0m", "pitches": [ { "alpine": "1", "commitment": "I", "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": null } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": "0", "natural_pro": false, "description": "Accessible from Park Pass and the Park Glacier or Lake Unknown.", "ascent": null } ], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aspiring/wilkin-river/iphigenia": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aspiring/wilkin-river/iphigenia", "name": "Iphigenia", "altitude": "1994m", "access": null, "description": null, "latlng": [ "-44.232443", "168.930141" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aspiring/wilkin-river/iphigenia/wonderland-valley", "name": "From the Wonderland Valley", "grade": null, "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "Climb the ridge leading to the summit from the Wonderland Valley. On the \r\n\r\nfirst ascent a snowcave was used\u2014one of the first to be used in the New Zealand alps. Also climbed by traversing from Arne." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "P & R Clark-Hall, Dec 1945." } ], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aspiring/young-range/pt-1993": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aspiring/young-range/pt-1993", "name": "Pt 1993", "altitude": "1993m", "access": null, "description": null, "latlng": [ "-44.27106105", "169.40406981" ], "routes": [], "places": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aspiring/young-range/pt-1993/pt-1992", "name": "PT 1992", "altitude": "1992m", "access": "Follow Liverpool hut access track to Arawhata saddle route. Head up to snow line and continue N on glacier until summit", "description": "NE of Arawhata Saddle in Aspiring Ntl Park.", "latlng": [ "-44.41702", "168.63948" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aspiring/young-range/pt-1993/pt-1992/south-face", "name": "South Face", "grade": "2,II", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": "0m", "pitches": [ { "alpine": "2", "commitment": "II", "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": null } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": "0", "natural_pro": false, "description": "Head up saddle route until snow line. Navigate the steep gully until summit. Route is obvious.", "ascent": "Oliver Dowling, Izzie Ravn, March 2022" } ], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] } ], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/darrans/darran-mountains/mt-gifford-low-pk": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/darrans/darran-mountains/mt-gifford-low-pk", "name": "Mt Gifford Low Pk", "altitude": "1991m", "access": null, "description": null, "latlng": [ "-44.733019", "168.059667" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/fiordland/darran-mountains/mt-gifford-low-pk/original-route", "name": "Original Route", "grade": null, "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "From Tent Flat in Moraine Creek follow a branch of the main stream towards Mt Gifford, heading for an open watercourse. The bush on the moraine wall below the lake is very thick and full of huge boulders. The gully leads to open tussock terraces below Gifford. \r\nThese tussock terraces can be followed to the head of Lake Adelaide and Phil\u2019s Bivvy." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Bob Burnett, Murray Stewart, Lindsay Stewart, Dec 1935." }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/fiordland/darran-mountains/mt-gifford-low-pk/north-west-face", "name": "North West Face", "grade": "17", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": true, "ewbank": "17", "description": "Seven pitches. The upper face contains some quite sustained climbing." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": true, "description": null, "ascent": "John Dale, Richard Pears, Dennis Kemp, Feb 1981." } ], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/c58dhau-landsborough/bannock-brae-range/stirling-pk": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/c58dhau-landsborough/bannock-brae-range/stirling-pk", "name": "Stirling Pk", "altitude": "1991m", "access": null, "description": "A \u2018splendid, spire-like peak\u2019 named by a 1950 Tararua Tramping Club party who were the first to cross from the Mak\u0101whio into the Karangarua valley.", "latlng": [ "-43.720436", "169.788517" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/c58dhau-landsborough/bannock-brae-range/stirling-pk/south-ridge", "name": "South Ridge", "grade": "2,III", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": "0m", "pitches": [ { "alpine": "2", "commitment": "III", "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": null } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": "0", "natural_pro": false, "description": "Gain the crest of the Bannock Brae Range, via either Uaroa or Misty Creek, and traverse east along the range and sidle to the saddle between Mahitahi Peak (1973m) and Stirling Peak (1991m). Deep ravines make for entertaining travel. Initial gendarmes on the south ridge can be sidled on the east. A fantastic viewpoint.", "ascent": "Nina Dickerhof, James Thornton, February 2018" } ], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/mt-elliot": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/mt-elliot", "name": "Mt Elliot", "altitude": "1990m", "access": null, "description": null, "latlng": [ "-44.77954624", "167.78493463" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/mt-elliot/north-ridge", "name": "North Ridge", "grade": "16", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": "0m", "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": "16", "description": null } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": "0", "natural_pro": false, "description": "A mid-length rock ridge offering mediocre rock but fine views and position. A mix of scrambling and rope work, with two proper rockclimbing pitchs to grade 16 (turn roof on the first steeper wall via holds on the right, and take the second crack from the right/ridge on the second steep wall, then finish up and left to a block). Old spliced abseil cord indicates previous passages taken along this ridge- up and down? A fascinating history. Easiest descent is either by West face weaknesses, or NE face to E ridge (3x 60m abseils plus scrambling).", "ascent": null }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/mt-elliot/north-couloir", "name": "North Couloir", "grade": null, "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": "1000m", "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": "1000m", "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": null } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": "0", "natural_pro": false, "description": "From the head of the Roaring Burn, climb slabs below the big cliffs to the flat part of the west ridge. Sidle easy snowgrass slopes on the northern side of the mountain until it\u2019s possible to gain a couloir leading directly to the summit ridge.", "ascent": "Jack Murrell, Edgar Williams, 21 February 1917" } ], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/canterbury/ragged-range/observation-cone": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/canterbury/ragged-range/observation-cone", "name": "Observation Cone", "altitude": "1990m", "access": "This is reached via scree slopes and a scramble from the upper South Mathias River or from the saddle\nat Pt 1816 metres (Observation Col).", "description": "na", "latlng": [ "-43.191536", "171.043482" ], "routes": [], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/canterbury/rolleston-range/pt-1988": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/canterbury/rolleston-range/pt-1988", "name": "Pt 1988", "altitude": "1988m", "access": null, "description": null, "latlng": [ "-43.083308", "171.200895" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/canterbury/rolleston-range/pt-1988/north-ridge", "name": "North Ridge", "grade": "1", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "1", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "Straightforward from Unknown Col." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Cliff Holdsworth, Geoff Flower, M Graham, March 1932" } ], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/fingals-head": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/fingals-head", "name": "Fingals Head", "altitude": "1986m", "access": null, "description": null, "latlng": [ "-44.2256316", "168.73522342" ], "routes": [], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/westland/mikonui-river/mt-bowen": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/westland/mikonui-river/mt-bowen", "name": "Mt Bowen", "altitude": "1985m", "access": null, "description": "na", "latlng": [ "-43.04767098", "170.96347035" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/westland/mikonui-river/mt-bowen/mikonui-spur", "name": "Mikonui Spur", "grade": "1", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "1", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "Head up the Mikonui Valley to the Mikonui\u2013Dickson confluence and pick up the locally\r\nmaintained marked route a short way up the Dickson River. Follow this presently overgrown\r\npermolat track up to the tops and Mikonui Spur Biv (DOC, two-person). The ridge above to Mt\r\nBowen offers reasonable travel with steep sections in the lower part. Higher up, an easy sidle on\r\nthe south-west side avoids the more difficult ridge crest." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "L H Parry, Ron Brown ( first known ascent), 15 November 1937" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/westland/mikonui-river/mt-bowen/south-sentinel-ridge-noisy-basin-and-whitcombe-valley", "name": "South (Sentinel) Ridge to Noisy Basin and the Whitcombe Valley", "grade": "1", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "1", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "Mt Bowen can be traversed with packs to the Whitcombe Valley. From Mt Bowen, the rocky\r\nspur out past Sentinel Peak offers good travel down to J34 460909 / BV18 360 293, where there\r\nmay still be an old marker post. Easy tussock travel then leads left to Noisy Stream and Basin.\r\nFrom the 1170-metre contour, leave Noisy Stream and sidle on the true left across benches and\r\nbasins to J34 474922 / BV18 374 306. Descend the spur over a lower knoll directly down to join\r\nthe marked route leading to the Whitcombe Valley. The lightly-marked route is followable with\r\ncare, but deteriorates on forested flats near the river." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": null } ], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/arthurs-pass/birdwood-range/spurs": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/arthurs-pass/birdwood-range/spurs", "name": "The Spurs", "altitude": "1985m", "access": null, "description": null, "latlng": [ "-43.14917488", "171.46547557" ], "routes": [], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/nelson-lakes-kaikc58dura/seaward-kaikc58dura-range/shattered-pk": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/nelson-lakes-kaikc58dura/seaward-kaikc58dura-range/shattered-pk", "name": "Shattered Pk", "altitude": "1984m", "access": null, "description": null, "latlng": [ "-42.269436", "173.552154" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/nelson-lakes-kaik%C5%8Dura/seaward-kaik%C5%8Dura-range/shattered-pk/snowflake-spur-route", "name": "Snowflake Spur Route", "grade": "1,I", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": "1", "commitment": "I", "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "Access via KOWAI RIVER" } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": "From the Kowhai River below Kowhai Hut, gain the spur wherever convenient. Bypass a razorback section at 1460m by sidling well down on the western side. Alternatively, climb a Snowflake Stream tributary to reach the spur above the razorback.", "ascent": null } ], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/fiordland/franklin-mountains/barrier-pk": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/fiordland/franklin-mountains/barrier-pk", "name": "Barrier Pk", "altitude": "1982m", "access": null, "description": ".", "latlng": [ "-44.84576121", "167.71436666" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/fiordland/franklin-mountains/barrier-pk/omanui-mckinnon-pass", "name": "From Omanui McKinnon Pass", "grade": "1+,II", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": "0m", "pitches": [ { "alpine": "1+", "commitment": "II", "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": null } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": "0", "natural_pro": false, "description": "A long ridge traverse from Omanui McKinnon Pass. Sidle under the peak on the Castle River side to reach the summit from the south.", "ascent": "A Dickie, C Bowmar, H Smith, 12 April 1939" } ], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aspiring/west-wanaka-mountains/lois-pk": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aspiring/west-wanaka-mountains/lois-pk", "name": "Lois Pk", "altitude": "1981m", "access": null, "description": "", "latlng": [ "-44.309361", "168.8853608" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aspiring/west-wanaka-mountains/lois-pk/rabbit-pass", "name": "From Rabbit Pass", "grade": "I,1", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": "I", "mtcook": "1", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "" } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": "Climb to the shelf above the waterfall at the head of the East Matukituki. A broad easy ridge leads eastwards to the summit, about one hour from the point where the shelf is reached and four to five hours from Ruth Flat. Note: This is not the peak of Lois marked on the metric topo map, which is further on and more tricky.", "ascent": "Howard Boddy, Jack Foster, February 1933" } ], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aspiring/main-divide/mt-attica": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aspiring/main-divide/mt-attica", "name": "Mt Attica", "altitude": "1980m", "access": null, "description": null, "latlng": [ "-44.116586", "169.012065" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aspiring/main-divide/mt-attica/normal-route", "name": "Normal Route", "grade": null, "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "Straightforward from Siberia Saddle." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": null } ], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/mt-axis": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/mt-axis", "name": "Mt Axis", "altitude": "1979m", "access": null, "description": null, "latlng": [ "-42.92358422", "171.36453209" ], "routes": [], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/southland/eyre-mountains/cecil-pk": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/southland/eyre-mountains/cecil-pk", "name": "Cecil Pk", "altitude": "1978m", "access": null, "description": "Above Lake Wakatipu.", "latlng": [ "-45.12208199", "168.63270951" ], "routes": [], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aspiring/serpentine-range/mt-erebus": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aspiring/serpentine-range/mt-erebus", "name": "Mt Erebus", "altitude": "1978m", "access": null, "description": "The highest point on the range.", "latlng": [ "-44.70029421", "168.19154263" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aspiring/serpentine-range/mt-erebus/south-west-ridge", "name": "South West Ridge", "grade": "1,I", "topo_ref": null, "image": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/route/1-P9240148.JPG?itok=Zl_Ol19m", "images": [ { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/route/1-P9240148.JPG?itok=Zl_Ol19m", "height": "264", "width": "325" } ], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": "1", "commitment": "I", "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": null } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": "From the Valley of the Trolls head up the the valley to the northeast and climb scree slope to reach the saddle between Pts 1829 and 1821. From the saddle follow the easy 'C'-shaped ridge to the summit.", "ascent": null } ], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/c58dhau-landsborough/bannock-brae-range/mt-stratford": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/c58dhau-landsborough/bannock-brae-range/mt-stratford", "name": "Mt Stratford", "altitude": "1977m", "access": null, "description": null, "latlng": [ "-43.69743771", "169.71034779" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/mt-stratford/north-ridge", "name": "North Ridge", "grade": "1+,II", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": "0m", "pitches": [ { "alpine": "1+", "commitment": "II", "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": null } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": "0", "natural_pro": false, "description": "From the saddle at the head of the south branch of Greer Creek, this is a straightforward scramble up the short, blunt ridge.", "ascent": "Nina Dickerhof, James Thornton, March 2019" } ], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/darrans/darran-mountains/mt-whaitiri": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/darrans/darran-mountains/mt-whaitiri", "name": "Mt Whaitiri", "altitude": "1976m", "access": null, "description": "Mt Whaitiri is located incorrectly on old topomaps.", "latlng": [ "-44.654184", "168.019066" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/fiordland/darran-mountains/mt-waitiri/south-ridge", "name": "South Ridge", "grade": null, "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "From the broad terraces above Lake Turner traverse round to gain the ridge then follow the South Ridge to the summit." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Bill Gordon, Ralph Miller, Dec 1955." }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/darrans/darran-mountains/mt-whaitiri/east-ridge", "name": "East Ridge", "grade": "2+,II", "topo_ref": null, "image": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/2023-10/East%20Ridge%2C%20Mt%20Whaitiri%2C%20Darrans%2C%202021.jpeg?itok=yKFcpvf4", "images": [ { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/2023-10/East%20Ridge%2C%20Mt%20Whaitiri%2C%20Darrans%2C%202021.jpeg?itok=yKFcpvf4", "height": "183", "width": "325" } ], "length": "0m", "pitches": [ { "alpine": "2+", "commitment": "II", "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": null } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": "0", "natural_pro": false, "description": "The broad ridge narrows up high with a notch providing the crux. Climbed as part of an ice-axe free crossing of the central Darrans, but may have been climbed before.", "ascent": "Rich Turner, Rich Thomson, 1 March 2021" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/fiordland/darran-mountains/mt-waitiri/north-ridge", "name": "North Ridge", "grade": null, "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "An easy scramble from Pakihaukea Pass." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "First Ascent unknown." } ], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/tyler": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/tyler", "name": "Tyler", "altitude": "1976m", "access": null, "description": null, "latlng": [ "-44.34583762", "168.62482647" ], "routes": [], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/c58dhau-landsborough/barrier-range/pt-1975": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/c58dhau-landsborough/barrier-range/pt-1975", "name": "Pt 1975", "altitude": "1975m", "access": null, "description": "Routes from left to right are Sockeye, Fingerling, Fillet Up, Gaffed and Vegetable Sheep are In.", "latlng": [ "-44.1595834713", "169.739646749" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/%C5%8Dhau-landsborough/barrier-range/pt-1975/north-ridge", "name": "North Ridge", "grade": "2,II", "topo_ref": null, "image": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/route/pk1975.jpg?itok=TZAOmFCH", "images": [ { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/route/pk1975.jpg?itok=TZAOmFCH", "height": "230", "width": "325" } ], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": "2", "commitment": "II", "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": null } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": "Begin at the pronounced rock buttress at BZ14 397 068 and follow the ridge to the reach a point just to the east of Pt 1975. A rope may be needed in places on the lower section. It is easy to traverse off the ridge once above the lower buttress.", "ascent": "Paul Hersey, Scott Blackford-Scheele, September 2008" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/%C5%8Dhau-landsborough/barrier-range/pt-1975/sockeye", "name": "Sockeye", "grade": "14,4,II", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": "4", "commitment": "II", "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": true, "ewbank": "14", "description": null } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": true, "description": "Seven pitches on salmon hued greywacke on the northeast side of the face. Begin at crack twenty metres from the lowest point of the slab and climb diagonally towards the crest of the slab. Follow a line parallel to the edge of slab towards the summit. Pleasant climbing a with short section of grade 14 in the middle of the route. Finish by climbing the Friend crack up the pink slab to the left of the vertical rock.", "ascent": "Ross Cullen, Bill McLeod, April 2004" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/%C5%8Dhau-landsborough/barrier-range/pt-1975/fingerling", "name": "Fingerling", "grade": "15,4,II", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": "4", "commitment": "II", "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": true, "ewbank": "15", "description": null } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": true, "description": "Eight pitches with the first and final pitches providing excellent climbing. Begin by climbing the obvious left tending crack for 15m, then straight up the fine fall line crack system at grade 15. Continue on up steady grade 12 climbing until the final pitch which includes a section of perfect finger crack, grade 15. Finishes by surmounting the preposterous summit block.", "ascent": "Ross Cullen, Bill McLeod, April 2004" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/%C5%8Dhau-landsborough/barrier-range/pt-1975/fillet", "name": "Fillet Up", "grade": "17,4,II", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": "4", "commitment": "II", "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": true, "ewbank": "17", "description": null } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": true, "description": "Begin at top of the scree just right of darker coloured rock near the centre of the Salmon Slabs and follow the line providing the best climbing, aiming for the high point on the slab. Finish by climbing the left-hand of the two prominent features on the upper part of the slab. Mostly grade 12-13 climbing but grade 17 technical moves on the well-protected final pitch.", "ascent": "Ross Cullen, Bill McLeod, March 2004" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/%C5%8Dhau-landsborough/barrier-range/pt-1975/gaffed", "name": "Gaffed", "grade": "13,4,II", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": "4", "commitment": "II", "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": true, "ewbank": "13", "description": null } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": true, "description": "Three pitches beginning high in the shallow gully on the lower margin of the slabs. Start by climbing the groove on the right-hand slab directly toward the summit. Finish by climbing the crack on the left side of the slab. Steady grade 13 climbing.", "ascent": "Ross Cullen, Bill McLeod, April 2004" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/%C5%8Dhau-landsborough/barrier-range/pt-1975/vegetable-sheep-are", "name": "Vegetable Sheep Are In", "grade": "14", "topo_ref": "V", "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": "A route near the ridge crest, starting roughly 200m SW of the main Salmon Slabs. Climb left of the small roof feature then stay on the ridge crest to finish. Small wires & cams useful.", "ascent": "Noel Walker, Nick Edwards, Eric Skea, April 2022" } ], "places": [], "image": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/wide/public/image/salmon2.jpg?itok=7gyJOGhL", "images": [ { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/wide/public/image/salmon2.jpg?itok=7gyJOGhL", "height": "200", "width": "359" }, { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/image/3558D18D-08A2-4D46-9331-044BA65343CB.jpeg?itok=6rU0-zwE", "height": "271", "width": "325" }, { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/image/salmon-slabs-vegetable-sheep-are-in_0.jpg?itok=wFkwtf7N", "height": "325", "width": "325" }, { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/image/8A19E457-651C-45F4-990D-16FB1D14E94C.jpeg?itok=p8uiYwqs", "height": "325", "width": "183" }, { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/image/6B5BF09F-1C23-4D99-BAF9-ED43915D0C40.jpeg?itok=ettnHt60", "height": "325", "width": "187" } ] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/c58dhau-landsborough/bannock-brae-range/mahitahi-pk": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/c58dhau-landsborough/bannock-brae-range/mahitahi-pk", "name": "Mahitahi Pk", "altitude": "1973m", "access": null, "description": "Marked wrongly on old maps as Query Peak.", "latlng": [ "-43.729198", "169.78723" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/c58dhau-landsborough/bannock-brae-range/mahitahi-pk/north-ridge", "name": "North Ridge", "grade": "2,III", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": "0m", "pitches": [ { "alpine": "2", "commitment": "III", "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": null } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": "0", "natural_pro": false, "description": "Gain the crest of the Bannock Brae Range, via either Uaroa or Misty Creek, and traverse east along the range and sidle to the saddle between Mahitahi Peak (1973m) and Stirling Peak (1991m). Deep ravines make for entertaining travel. From the saddle it is a short, steep scramble.", "ascent": "Nina Dickerhof, James Thornton, February 2018" } ], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/1972": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/1972", "name": "Pt 1972", "altitude": "1972m", "access": null, "description": null, "latlng": [ "-44.39216504", "169.005954" ], "routes": [], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/jean-batten-peak": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/jean-batten-peak", "name": "Jean Batten Pk", "altitude": "1971m", "access": null, "description": null, "latlng": [ "-44.85868069", "168.17335261" ], "routes": [], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aspiring/main-divide/pt-1971": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aspiring/main-divide/pt-1971", "name": "Pt 1971", "altitude": "1971m", "access": null, "description": "Above the Makarora River, southeast of Mt Kaye.", "latlng": [ "-44.112342584", "169.417145236" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/main-divide-of-the-southern-alps/pt-1971/makarora-hut", "name": "From Makarora Hut", "grade": null, "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": "Up the Makarora River to the hut then west to Pt 1971 and Pt 2010 on the Main Divide. Return via Boundary Spur.", "ascent": "Paul Hersey, Shelley Graham, Lydia Bradey, April 2006" } ], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/otago/huxley-range/mt-arnold": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/otago/huxley-range/mt-arnold", "name": "Mt Arnold", "altitude": "1970m", "access": null, "description": "Mount Arnold borders Lake Hawea and the Dingle Burn Valley.", "latlng": [ "-44.3292326", "169.491089" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/otago/huxley-range/mt-arnold/dingle-burn", "name": "From the Dingle Burn", "grade": "1", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "1", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": null } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": "From the Dingle Burn Valley near the historic Ben Avon Hut, follow up the\nobvious tree line on the north side of the side stream on the true right of\nthe Dingle Burn. Gain height to about 1200m. Continue to sidle along the hill\ntowards the basin until you get bluffed out. There is a slip near here you\ncan drop down into the river below fairly easy. Head up the river for a few\nhundred meters to enter the basin. Following the creek on the way in/out will\nsee you stuck in a small canyon. From the basin head up the obvious slopes\nleading to Mt Arnold. Easy way up summit rocks is from the saddle on the\nNorth Side.", "ascent": "First Ascent Unknown but climbed by Jeremy Smit, April 2012" } ], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/southland/eyre-mountains/eyre-pk": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/southland/eyre-mountains/eyre-pk", "name": "Eyre Pk", "altitude": "1969m", "access": null, "description": null, "latlng": [ "-45.32366694", "168.46040009" ], "routes": [], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/main-divide-of-the-southern-alps/mt-keddell": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/main-divide-of-the-southern-alps/mt-keddell", "name": "Mt Keddell", "altitude": "1969m", "access": null, "description": "na", "latlng": [ "-42.972878", "171.282864" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/main-divide-of-the-southern-alps/mt-keddell/farquharson-saddle", "name": "From Farquharson Saddle", "grade": null, "topo_ref": "FS", "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "From Farquharson Saddle the Main Divide offers an easy approach to Mt Keddell. Later in the\r\nseason there is a tarn 100 metres south of Pt 1816 metres near the ridge." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": null }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/main-divide-of-the-southern-alps/mt-keddell/griffiths-saddle", "name": "From Griffiths Saddle", "grade": null, "topo_ref": "GS", "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "From Griffiths Saddle an equally easy route heads north across a snow basin to the Main Divide\r\nto reach the rocks of Mt Keddell." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": null } ], "places": [], "image": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/wide/public/image/p279_0.png?itok=w27Nzmyh", "images": [ { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/wide/public/image/p279_0.png?itok=w27Nzmyh", "height": "520", "width": "900" } ] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/main-divide-of-the-southern-alps/mt-tarleton": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/main-divide-of-the-southern-alps/mt-tarleton", "name": "Mt Tarleton", "altitude": "1968m", "access": null, "description": "Slightly west of the divide, from Mt Split Open.", "latlng": [ "-43.611117", "171.0515333" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/main-divide-of-the-southern-alps/mt-tarleton/west", "name": "From the West", "grade": "1-", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "An overgrowing but followable marked route leads up from Price Flat Hut to the bushline.\r\nBeyond, reasonably easy slopes lead to the summit." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": null }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/main-divide-of-the-southern-alps/mt-tarleton/pt-1803-metres", "name": "From Pt 1803 metres", "grade": "1+", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "1+", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "Head across shingle then snow in the head of Cataract Creek and climb rock bluffs up to the\r\nrugged ridge." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": null } ], "places": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/main-divide-of-the-southern-alps/mt-tarleton/derwent-crags", "name": "Derwent Crags", "altitude": "1767m", "access": null, "description": "na", "latlng": [ "-43.097849", "171.050863" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/main-divide-of-the-southern-alps/mt-tarleton/derwent-crags/traverse", "name": "Traverse", "grade": "1-", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "From a tussock campsite to the north-west, (where there was an old hunters\u2019 camp) the crags\r\ncan be approached up a long shingle slide to a col on the ridge overlooking upper Vincent\r\nCreek. Derwent Crags are very rocky and rugged, but quite good travelling along the crest. The\r\nridge then provides easy access to Mt Tarleton." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Ian Dixon, Norman Southeran, P Willis, April 1939" } ], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] } ], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/arthurs-pass/mt-philistine": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/arthurs-pass/mt-philistine", "name": "Mt Philistine", "altitude": "1967m", "access": null, "description": null, "latlng": [ "-42.88662459", "171.52610779" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/arthurs-pass/mt-philistine/warnocks-bluff", "name": "Warnocks Bluff", "grade": "1", "topo_ref": "H", "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": "1", "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "Climbed from the Otira Valley. Where the foot-bridge crosses the Otira River (about halfway up the valley) follow a vague track that crosses the vegetated moraine wall high on the true left. It then zigzags up the scree slide that leads to the base of the bluffs separating Warnocks Knob from Philistine\u2019s East Ridge. Connecting ramps and gullies, find a path through the bluffs, giving access to the easier slopes above. In winter these bluffs are extremely dangerous when covered in loose snow or ice. An alternative route through the bluffs follows a stepped creek found further to the north, though this has similar winter problems. Above the bluffs continue following the ridge, staying true left of the east ridge buttress, then climbing snow slopes to join the saddle adjacent the Rolleston Glacier. The loose main ridge is easily climbed from here." } ], "quality": 1, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "A P Harper and M Dixon, 9 November 1891" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/arthurs-pass/mt-philistine/rolleston-river-track", "name": "From Rolleston River Track", "grade": "2", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": "2", "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "Climbable via the giant gully that rises steeply for 1100 metres from the Rolleston River track (1.5km upstream of the railway bridge). This gut can be threatened by rock or ice fall in almost any season, and is invariably a very steep ice/loose scree climb for the final 200 metres to the col between Mt Philstine and its northwest summit (1780m). Warnocks Knob should be used as the preferred descent route." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": null }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/arthurs-pass/mt-philistine/head-rolleston-river", "name": "From Head of Rolleston River", "grade": "2", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": "2", "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "From the head of the Rolleston River, climb via a steep, narrow couloir. This leaves the river via initial scree (K33 885121) and proceeds into a narrow rock gut for 200m before opening out to onto another scree slope. Keep the adjacent rock on the true left. Towards the top ascend diagonal rock gullies to join the west ridge on to the summit. Post winter route when avalanche risk is low." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": null } ], "places": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/arthurs-pass/mt-philistine/philistine-bluffs", "name": "Philistine Bluffs", "altitude": "1500m", "access": null, "description": "Difficult direct face routes or ice gully climbs are present from the Upper Otira Valley by way of the Philistine Bluffs. The most popular of these is the Philistine Ramp, which follows an avalanche chute to the southwest corner of the Rolleston Glacier. Most other routes top out under the East Ridge buttress or the Rolleston Glacier icefall. From the n\u00e9v\u00e9 of the Rolleston Glacier, routes can also be chosen that follow steep snow slopes or loose rock ribs to join the Philistine-Rolleston ridge.\nUse Warnock\u2019s Bluff Route or the Philistine Ramp Route (to the left) for descent.", "latlng": [ "-42.89433913", "171.53062011" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/arthurs-pass/mt-philistine/philistine-bluffs/philistine-ramp", "name": "Philistine Ramp", "grade": "1", "topo_ref": "A", "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": "1", "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "Only in conditon late spring early summer due to build up of avalanche debris. Follwow obvious avalanche chute towards SW corner of Rolleston Gl. Some seasons the headwall can be vertical ice. An alternative rock route climbs through the gullies and slabs on the true right of the ravine." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": null }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/arthurs-pass/mt-philistine/philistine-bluffs/zero-gully", "name": "Zero Gully", "grade": "2", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": "2", "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "Ice only.\r\n3rd avalanche gut upstream from the bridge." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": null }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/arthurs-pass/mt-philistine/philistine-bluffs/waterfall-route", "name": "Waterfall Route", "grade": "2", "topo_ref": "B", "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": "2", "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "Rock or Ice. 2nd avalanche gully above the bridge" } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": null }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/arthurs-pass/mt-philistine/philistine-bluffs/grade-2", "name": "Grade 2+", "grade": "2", "topo_ref": "C", "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": "2", "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "Rock or Ice.\r\nStarts on slope betwwen the first two avalanche gullies above bridge." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": null }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/arthurs-pass/mt-philistine/philistine-bluffs/grade-3", "name": "Grade 3+", "grade": null, "topo_ref": "D", "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "Rock only. Start directly under a 60deg crack system that runs into the wall on to East Ridge of Philistine. Climb vertically to the left of the crack for 25m on poor pro to intersect parallel 60deg crack, avoiding moss & water. Continue climbing crack untila small terrace is reached. Break left onto a broad, less steep facemoving upwards to a gut theat tops out onto screes under the East Ridge." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": null }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/arthurs-pass/mt-philistine/philistine-bluffs/bone-collector", "name": "The Bone Collector", "grade": "5-", "topo_ref": "E", "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "5-", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "(Rock or ice). Follow faint buttress line diagonally right through mixed ground for 5 pitches, traverse left at a short wall and up a short couloir to climb steep ice covered slabs and then head diagonally right over exposed mixed ground to a short 4m wall ( extremely loose rock), climb delicately over this to reach steep snow at first and then onto the main snowfield below Mt Philistine. Return via route H" } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Gerard Smith & Brian Alder" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/arthurs-pass/mt-philistine/philistine-bluffs/right-ramp", "name": "Right Ramp", "grade": "2", "topo_ref": "F", "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": "2", "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "Ice Only.\r\nClimb Scree from bridge towards the massive boulder at its head. The route climbs the 45deg RH ramp for 50m, then up steep buttress rock to meet a sweeping RH couloir. After 40m this leads into a less steep gully for a further 150m climbing parallel to a wall on the true R. The head breaks out onto the avalanche slopes underneath the East Ridge of Philistine." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": null }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/arthurs-pass/mt-philistine/philistine-bluffs/diagonal-gully", "name": "Diagonal Gully", "grade": "1", "topo_ref": "G", "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": "1", "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "Ice Only.\r\nFrom bridge follow normal Warnock\u2019s Bluff route, however stay in large scree gully.\r\nThe obvious gully that runs across to the left as you look up is met at the head of the scree. 2 \u00bd easy pitches gain a small saddle followed by a traverse into a steeper snow field. The gully line is picked up, more steeply to join the broad ridge above." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Stu Robertson and" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/arthurs-pass/mt-philistine/philistine-bluffs/double-blind-route", "name": "Double Blind Route", "grade": "WI3", "topo_ref": null, "image": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/route/IMG_7631reduced_Ink_LI.jpg?itok=DHpUxdry", "images": [ { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/route/IMG_7631reduced_Ink_LI.jpg?itok=DHpUxdry", "height": "256", "width": "325" } ], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": "WI3", "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": null } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": "Access as for Waterfall Route but veer left towards two obvious ice flows.\nClimb the right one and continue straight up on steep ice towards the\nslightly overhanging rock face. Follow good ice on the right hand side of the\nrock face to easing snow slopes. 3 pitches. Good climbing with easy access.\nPotential for other variations here exists.", "ascent": "Ben Ellis and Sarwan Chand, August 2016" } ], "places": [], "image": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/image/mt%252520lancelot-from%252520southeast-routemark_0.jpg?itok=QovoaDZV", "images": [ { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/image/mt%252520lancelot-from%252520southeast-routemark_0.jpg?itok=QovoaDZV", "height": "244", "width": "325" } ] } ], "image": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/wide/public/image/mt%20philistine-rolleston%20glacier-routemark.JPG?itok=VgkQRHjd", "images": [ { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/wide/public/image/mt%20philistine-rolleston%20glacier-routemark.JPG?itok=VgkQRHjd", "height": "675", "width": "900" } ] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/ni/tongariro/mt-tongariro": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/ni/tongariro/mt-tongariro", "name": "Mt Tongariro", "altitude": "1967m", "access": null, "description": "The Tongariro Crossing between the Mangatepopo valley and Ketetahi is a hugely popular summer walk. Even so, parties setting out on the Crossing should be prepared for sudden changes in weather and mountain conditions. Winter on Tongariro is very different. Although on a \ufb01ne day a steady stream of visitors may still climb to the craters, there will be nothing like the constant \ufb02ow encountered in summer. Under snow, the broad expanses of the craters are a unique alpine environment. It\u2019s a great day out. You will need an ice axe, crampons, and the ability to use them.\nThe alpine lakes and summits of the mountains are sacred to Ng\u0101ti Hikairo ki Tongariro. Respectfully, they ask that summits are not climbed, waterways are not touched, and frozen lakes not walked on.\nhttps://www.doc.govt.nz/parks-and-recreation/places-to-go/central-north-island/places/tongariro-national-park/things-to-do/tracks/tongariro-alpine-crossing", "latlng": [ "-39.12999366", "175.63555241" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/ni/tongariro/mt-tongariro/south-ridge", "name": "South Ridge", "grade": "1,I", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": "1", "commitment": "I", "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": null }, { "alpine": "1", "commitment": "I", "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": null } ], "quality": 1, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": "A more alpine excursion, the South Ridge begins at the head of Mangatepopo Valley at the entrance to South Crater. Scramble along over blocky ground. It is also possible to gain the upper South Ridge by climbing directly out of the head of South Crater; neither conditions, views nor sunshine are likely to be as agreeable as on the ridge.\nThe alpine lakes and summits of the mountains are sacred to Ng\u0101ti Hikairo ki Tongariro. Respectfully, they ask that summits are not climbed, waterways are not touched, and frozen lakes not walked on.\nEither descend to the east to rejoin the Crossing, or avoid the crowds altogether and descend a scree slope down the mountain\u2019s western flank towards the long ridge that hems the Mangatepopo valley on its northern side. A faint track leads back to the car park.", "ascent": null } ], "places": [], "image": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/wide/public/image/84500006_0.jpg?itok=Kx8PKM4y", "images": [ { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/wide/public/image/84500006_0.jpg?itok=Kx8PKM4y", "height": "597", "width": "900" } ] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/main-divide-of-the-southern-alps/mt-split-open": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/main-divide-of-the-southern-alps/mt-split-open", "name": "Mt Split Open", "altitude": "1967m", "access": null, "description": "Aptly named, Mt Split Open comprises two peaks separated by a large chasm. The chasm is filled with\nrock debris, which can be easily crossed.", "latlng": [ "-43.114017", "171.063824" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/main-divide-of-the-southern-alps/mt-split-open/south-ridge", "name": "South Ridge", "grade": "1", "topo_ref": "SR", "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "1", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "The lower reaches of the creek draining the south side of Mt Split Open are steeply gorged and\r\nimpassable. From Kea Pass, or the shelf below the pass, sidle across relatively flat ground above\r\nthe gorge (true left) and below the bluffs of Mt Split Open to scree and rock slabs leading to the\r\ncol at the foot of the South Ridge. Follow the ridge to the summit." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "P Willis, April 1939" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/main-divide-of-the-southern-alps/mt-split-open/east-ridge", "name": "East Ridge", "grade": null, "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "From Kea Pass. No record. Climbers attempting to descend reported smooth rock faces." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": null } ], "places": [], "image": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/wide/public/image/SplitOpen.png?itok=eBPb0gHp", "images": [ { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/wide/public/image/SplitOpen.png?itok=eBPb0gHp", "height": "595", "width": "900" } ] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/nelson-lakes/mahanga-range/mt-windward": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/nelson-lakes/mahanga-range/mt-windward", "name": "Mt Windward", "altitude": "1966m", "access": null, "description": "Mahanga Ra", "latlng": [ "-42.00160082", "172.66224861" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/nelson-lakes/mahanga-range/mt-windward/sabine-route", "name": "Sabine Route", "grade": "1", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": "1", "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "Just north of Sabine Forks an old avalanche chute leads to steep tussock, scree and broken crags." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": null } ], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/main-divide-of-the-southern-alps/button-pk": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/main-divide-of-the-southern-alps/button-pk", "name": "Button Pk", "altitude": "1966m", "access": null, "description": "\u2018A large heap of stones held together by fate and mutual goodwill\u2019, wrote Deryck Morse, who also noted that the rock on the route from Kea Pass, \u2018holds together fairly well, so long as you don\u2019t step on it\u2019.", "latlng": [ "-43.102362", "171.079187" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/main-divide-of-the-southern-alps/button-pk/harcourt-creek", "name": "From Harcourt Creek", "grade": "1-", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "Easily approached up gravel and rock from the west." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "L Parry, 21 March 1936" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/main-divide-of-the-southern-alps/button-pk/south-ridge", "name": "South Ridge", "grade": "1", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "1", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "Gain Kea Pass and then climb the ridge." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "G Auton, N Syme, A Wicks, E Wallace, December 1950" } ], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/darrans/wick-mountains/mt-belle": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/darrans/wick-mountains/mt-belle", "name": "Mt Belle", "altitude": "1965m", "access": null, "description": null, "latlng": [ "-44.774723", "167.985107" ], "routes": [], "places": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/darrans/wick-mountains/mt-belle/milford-road", "name": "From the Milford Road", "altitude": null, "access": "The routes follow weaknesses up the steep tussock slopes that drop from the summit of Mt Belle to the Milford Road.", "description": null, "latlng": null, "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/darrans/wick-mountains/mt-belle/milford-road/left-hand-route", "name": "Left-Hand Route", "grade": null, "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "Work up the bluffs on the right of the main avalanche groove then continue up a series of ledges to join the original route at the base of the summit rock." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Ralph Miller, Godfrey Rieder, Bill Robson, Lloyd Warburton, Malcolm Imlay, Dec 1957." }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/darrans/wick-mountains/mt-belle/milford-road/original-route", "name": "Original Route", "grade": null, "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "Start opposite the gravel road to Homer Hut. Ascend the large tussock fan, then take a series of right-slanting tussock ledges to gain the crest of the ridge and the snowfield leading to the final rock peak." } ], "quality": 1, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Scott Gilkison, Norman Davis, 1931." }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/darrans/wick-mountains/mt-belle/milford-road/homer-tunnel-mt-belle", "name": "Homer Tunnel to Mt Belle", "grade": null, "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "From 200m left of the Tunnel take the dry creek-bed through the bluffs, then left to a large gut, which is followed to the North East Ridge of Belle." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "First ascent unknown." } ], "places": [], "image": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/wide/public/image/Belle.JPG?itok=5Is9cTB2", "images": [ { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/wide/public/image/Belle.JPG?itok=5Is9cTB2", "height": "1030", "width": "1090" } ] }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/darrans/wick-mountains/mt-belle/south-face", "name": "South Face", "altitude": null, "access": "Normally the routes are accessed by climbing down or abseiling two pitches from the ridge between Belle and Moir to the snowfield.", "description": "The south face of Mt Belle has a number of short rock routes.", "latlng": null, "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/darrans/wick-mountains/mt-belle/south-face/not-vegetarians", "name": "Not for Vegetarians", "grade": "14", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": true, "ewbank": "14", "description": "Four pitches. Take a gully on the left-hand side of the face which leads left off the main summit. Exit halfway between the gendarme and summit." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": true, "description": null, "ascent": "Jon Taylor, Mike Woodbridge, Mar 2001." }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/darrans/wick-mountains/mt-belle/south-face/orange-ripple", "name": "Orange Ripple", "grade": "17", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": true, "ewbank": "17", "description": "Four pitches. Finishes left of the summit, up an ar\u00eate covered with orange lichen." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": true, "description": null, "ascent": "John Owen, Hugh Widdowson, Jan 1989." }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/darrans/wick-mountains/mt-belle/south-face/biggs-hudson", "name": "Biggs Hudson", "grade": "16", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": true, "ewbank": "16", "description": "Six pitches. Good free climbing, taking a fairly direct line which finishes just right of the summit." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": true, "description": null, "ascent": "Barry Biggs, Calum Hudson, 1974." }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/darrans/wick-mountains/mt-belle/south-face/price-scott", "name": "Price Scott", "grade": "17", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": true, "ewbank": "17", "description": "Climb from the middle of the face, taking a 5m dihedral (crux) then easy free climbing to exit just right of the summit." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": true, "description": null, "ascent": "Richard Price, Barry Scott, 1974." } ], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/fiordland/wick-mountains/mt-belle/north-face", "name": "North Face", "altitude": null, "access": null, "description": "This face has some short routes on good compact rock.", "latlng": null, "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/fiordland/wick-mountains/mt-belle/north-face/original-route", "name": "Original Route", "grade": null, "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Bill Gordon, Ralph Miller, David Henderson, Mar 1960." }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/fiordland/wick-mountains/mt-belle/north-face/right-hand-route", "name": "Right-Hand Route", "grade": "14", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": true, "ewbank": "14", "description": "Four pitches. Climb broken ground on the right side of the wall. \r\n\r\nClimbed wearing tramping boots and a heavy pack." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": true, "description": null, "ascent": "Russell Braddock, Nick Groves, Feb 2002." } ], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] } ], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aspiring/humboldt-mountains/amphion-pk": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aspiring/humboldt-mountains/amphion-pk", "name": "Amphion Pk", "altitude": "1965m", "access": null, "description": "TBA", "latlng": [ "-44.60503537", "168.2341055" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aspiring/humboldt-mountains/amphion-pk/north-west-ridge", "name": "North West Ridge", "grade": null, "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "From Park Pass up shingle north of the pass then via the Park Glacier." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": null }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aspiring/humboldt-mountains/amphion-pk/south-west-ridge", "name": "South West Ridge", "grade": "1,I", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": "0m", "pitches": [ { "alpine": "1", "commitment": "I", "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": null } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": "0", "natural_pro": false, "description": "Follow the obvious route up steep rock slabs (and snow slopes, depending on the season).", "ascent": null } ], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/darrans/wick-mountains/mt-moir": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/darrans/wick-mountains/mt-moir", "name": "Mt Moir", "altitude": "1965m", "access": "Take the track to Homer Saddle from the tunnel then follow the ridge to Moir for about 45min to an hour. The ridge is very exposed with moderately difficult scrambling \u2013 it has been known to reduce climbers to crawling on all fours in places. The ridge breaks into a broad scree slope which descends below the west face of Moir\u2019s Mate.", "description": "Mt Moir contains a wealth of classic rock routes on amazing diorite.", "latlng": [ "-44.77267", "167.97718" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/fiordland/wick-mountains/mt-moir/original-route", "name": "Original Route", "grade": null, "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "From the snowfield below the North Face of Belle." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Bill Gordon, Lloyd Warburton, Duncan Wilson, Oct 1953." }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/fiordland/wick-mountains/mt-moir/north-ridge", "name": "North Ridge", "grade": null, "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": true, "ewbank": null, "description": "A stunning ridge-climb on large blocks of good rock. The steep step onto Moir\u2019s Mate may require a rope and is often abseiled on the descent." } ], "quality": 2, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": true, "description": null, "ascent": "Bill Gordon, Ralph Miller, Oct 1956." }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/fiordland/wick-mountains/mt-moir/west-ridge", "name": "West Ridge", "grade": null, "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": true, "ewbank": null, "description": "A 500m ridge of good rock." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": true, "description": null, "ascent": "Godfrey Reider, Ron Webster, Dick Wood, March 1959." }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/fiordland/wick-mountains/mt-moir/south-face", "name": "South Face", "grade": "16", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": "16", "description": "For access to the South Face descend round the foot of the West Ridge. \r\nFive pitches. The route follows the central rib on medium-angled clean rock." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Don Bogie, Geoff Gabites, 1978." }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/fiordland/wick-mountains/mt-moir/south-ridge", "name": "South Ridge", "grade": null, "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": true, "ewbank": null, "description": "For access, descend round the foot of the West Ridge.\r\n16 pitches. Two or three initial step pitches to gain the ridge then excellent rock to the summit." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": true, "description": null, "ascent": "Richard Price, Conway Powell, 1976." } ], "places": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/fiordland/wick-mountains/mt-moir/upper-north-face", "name": "Upper North Face", "altitude": null, "access": "There are two access routes to the North Face of Moir depending on the amount of snow in the upper basin. Be aware that the snow field breaks up early summer and has the potential to slide into the depths of the Cleddau Valley.\n\nClimb the ridge over Moir's Mate and descend into the upper cirque: the safest route early in the summer.\nSidle under Moir's Mate to the Cleddau Ledges (narrow rock ledges under the Mate\u2019s Little Brother) and across to the North Face of Moir and Cleddau Buttress.", "description": "Compact, well-featured rock.", "latlng": null, "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/fiordland/wick-mountains/mt-moir/upper-north-face/big-pink", "name": "Big Pink", "grade": "18", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": true, "ewbank": "18", "description": "Two pitches. The largest blocky pillar onto the West Ridge of Moir ridge, directly behind the Little Brother." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": true, "description": null, "ascent": "Bill Denz, Calum Hudson, March 1977." }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/fiordland/wick-mountains/mt-moir/upper-north-face/butterbeans-hyperspace", "name": "Butterbeans in Hyperspace", "grade": "16,A1", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": "A1", "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": true, "ewbank": "16", "description": "Four pitches. 16, 16, A1, 15. At the head of the cirque, a groove on the left side of a slab." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": true, "description": null, "ascent": "Russell Braddock, Luke Newnham, Mike Rockell, 1981" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/fiordland/wick-mountains/mt-moir/upper-north-face/denz-herron", "name": "Denz Herron", "grade": null, "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": true, "ewbank": null, "description": "Four pitches. Move up a prominent corner (second corner left of the central pillar); hard free-climbing with a little aid through a small overhang." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": true, "description": null, "ascent": "Bill Denz, Phil Herron, 1974." }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/fiordland/wick-mountains/mt-moir/upper-north-face/denz-hudson", "name": "Denz Hudson", "grade": "18", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": true, "ewbank": "18", "description": "Take the dominant corner just left of the main pillar in the centre of the north face, with some free-climbing through overhangs. Variation on roof pitch, going left, 17." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": true, "description": null, "ascent": "Bill Denz, Calum Hudson, 1977." }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/fiordland/wick-mountains/mt-moir/upper-north-face/begg-clark-wayatt", "name": "Begg Clark Wayatt", "grade": "18", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": "18", "description": "Nine pitches. Climb 100m up slabs, then 200m on a clean pillar to the top of the face. The original ascent involved a few points of aid." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Dave Begg, Bruce Clark, Geoff Wayatt, Jan 1974." } ], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/fiordland/wick-mountains/mt-moir/moir-slab", "name": "Moir Slab", "altitude": null, "access": null, "description": "The glacier-worn scoop below the north face has several quality slab routes, the best of which is Lapland, a superb quality slab climb. The routes are not climbable early in the season due to snow-melt and if the neve is high you might find yourself starting halfway up the initial pitches.", "latlng": null, "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/fiordland/wick-mountains/mt-moir/moir-slab/coming-grips", "name": "Coming to Grips", "grade": "19", "topo_ref": "1", "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": true, "ewbank": "19", "description": null } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": true, "description": null, "ascent": "Bruce Dowrick, Roger Thomson, Jan 1990." }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/fiordland/wick-mountains/mt-moir/moir-slab/no-razor-blades-bottom-one", "name": "No Razor Blades at the Bottom of This One", "grade": "22", "topo_ref": "2", "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": true, "ewbank": "22", "description": null } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": true, "description": null, "ascent": "Bruce Dowrick, Roger Thomson, Jan 1990." }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/fiordland/wick-mountains/mt-moir/moir-slab/vass-deferens", "name": "Vass Deferens", "grade": "23", "topo_ref": "3", "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": true, "ewbank": "23", "description": null } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": true, "description": null, "ascent": "Gary Gray, Alistair Mark, Feb 1990." }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/fiordland/wick-mountains/mt-moir/moir-slab/i-am-fly", "name": "I Am The Fly", "grade": "20", "topo_ref": "4", "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": true, "ewbank": "20", "description": "A two pitch route 20, 20. Very runout on old bolts." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": true, "description": null, "ascent": "Andrew Hollings, Dave Vass, Jan 1990." }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/fiordland/wick-mountains/mt-moir/moir-slab/lapland", "name": "Lapland", "grade": "21", "topo_ref": "5", "image": null, "images": [], "length": "70m", "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": "20m", "bolts": null, "trad": true, "ewbank": "20", "description": "From the n\u00e9v\u00e9 climb up to a bolt and continue to a comfortable ledge and bolt belay." }, { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": "50m", "bolts": null, "trad": true, "ewbank": "21", "description": "A continually interesting pitch. From the ledge climb slightly left, then back right through tricky overlap (small-medium cams useful), continue to top belay past four bolts and occasional natural pro placements. Descend via rappel." } ], "quality": 3, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": true, "description": null, "ascent": "Andrew Hollings, Murray Judge, Dave Vass, Feb 1990." }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/fiordland/wick-mountains/mt-moir/moir-slab/vindaloo", "name": "Vindaloo", "grade": "22", "topo_ref": "6", "image": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/route/PC140037.JPG?itok=e1JRrtmi", "images": [ { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/route/PC140037.JPG?itok=e1JRrtmi", "height": "325", "width": "212" }, { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/route/P3140027.JPG?itok=-C-cyK5k", "height": "244", "width": "325" } ], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": "2", "trad": true, "ewbank": "19", "description": "Begin about 50 metres down right from the start of Lapland." }, { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": "10", "trad": true, "ewbank": "22", "description": null }, { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": "5", "trad": true, "ewbank": "17", "description": null } ], "quality": 2, "bolts": "10", "natural_pro": true, "description": null, "ascent": "Steve Carr, Murray Judge, December 2009" } ], "places": [], "image": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/wide/public/image/moir%20slab.gif?itok=P-xkAJsS", "images": [ { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/wide/public/image/moir%20slab.gif?itok=P-xkAJsS", "height": "550", "width": "797" } ] }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/fiordland/wick-mountains/mt-moir/north-face", "name": "North Face", "altitude": null, "access": "The lower Cleddau wall from the Homer Tunnel has been climbed to gain the foot of the buttress, but is a devious route.", "description": "The routes are located on the lower right side of the north face. The quality of the rock in this area is nothing short of unbelievable: extremely compact and well-featured.", "latlng": null, "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/fiordland/wick-mountains/mt-moir/north-face/mise-en-scene", "name": "Mise en Scene", "grade": "24", "topo_ref": "6", "image": null, "images": [], "length": "155m", "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": "45m", "bolts": null, "trad": true, "ewbank": "17", "description": "Start just left of the green corner, amble leftwards to bolt on ar\u00eate then back right to obvious break." }, { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": "45m", "bolts": null, "trad": true, "ewbank": "19", "description": "Go right from belay to shallow corner, traverse back left then angle up right up a steep ramp with natural pro to a roof. Traverse left under roof (a little loose). Clip bolt above roof then up right to belay." }, { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": "25m", "bolts": null, "trad": true, "ewbank": "24", "description": "Go left off belay up thin wall to mantle then take the left of two hanging corners to belay." }, { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": "40m", "bolts": null, "trad": true, "ewbank": "20", "description": "Not completed, 40m until easy ground." } ], "quality": 2, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": true, "description": null, "ascent": "Brian Alder, Pete Griffin, Gwilym Griffith Jones, Polly Stupples, Ben from Australia, Apr 1996." }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/fiordland/wick-mountains/mt-moir/north-face/sewing-seam", "name": "Sewing of the Seam", "grade": "20", "topo_ref": "7", "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": true, "ewbank": "20", "description": "Four pitches. 18, 18, 20, 17. Follow the seam which forms a left-to-right diagonal between the two bolted routes. Gear is run-out at times but the crux is well protected. Pins were used for the first ascent." } ], "quality": 1, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": true, "description": null, "ascent": "Keith Riley, Rob Wigley, Jan 2000." }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/fiordland/wick-mountains/mt-moir/north-face/el-braveth", "name": "El Braveth", "grade": "23", "topo_ref": "8", "image": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/route/El%20Braveth%20topo.jpg?itok=EGCTPQqG", "images": [ { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/route/El%20Braveth%20topo.jpg?itok=EGCTPQqG", "height": "325", "width": "251" } ], "length": "160m", "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": "40m", "bolts": "1", "trad": true, "ewbank": "19", "description": "Start at the bottom of the largest snow patch. Up to bolt on slab then right into corner that leads up and right to triple bolt belay on ledge." }, { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": "25m", "bolts": "2", "trad": true, "ewbank": "23", "description": "Step back into the corner and up to the overlap that forms a continuation of the great roof line. Crank over with a bolt and traverse up right past another bolt and some gear to a double glue-in bolt belay on ledge." }, { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": "25m", "bolts": "5", "trad": true, "ewbank": "23", "description": "Step back left into the corner and up to bolts that lead up a slab rightwards. Pull the small overhang on jugs to double bolt belay." }, { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": "20m", "bolts": "8", "trad": false, "ewbank": "23", "description": "Climb the dyke feature, angling up and right." }, { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": "10m", "bolts": "2", "trad": true, "ewbank": "20", "description": "Straight up past two bolts. The trick is to get standing on top of the flake above the last bolt, then you can climb straight up to belay." }, { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": "40m", "bolts": null, "trad": true, "ewbank": "17", "description": "Traverse 4m left to corner and up to the top of the pillar. Run out and a bit grassy. Single ring anchor." } ], "quality": 3, "bolts": "8", "natural_pro": true, "description": "Six pitches, mixed protection, crux on fourth pitch. Attempted by various people between 1991 and 2009. The name is an acronym of the first letters of the last names of all involved in various stages of the first ascent.", "ascent": "Richard Thomson, Dave Vass, 1991; Paul Rogers, Steve Eastwood, Kane Henderson, 1990s; Sarah Adcock, Kester Brown, February 2009" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/fiordland/wick-mountains/mt-moir/north-face/project-0", "name": "Project", "grade": "19", "topo_ref": "9", "image": null, "images": [], "length": "18m", "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": "18m", "bolts": null, "trad": true, "ewbank": "19", "description": "Pull through broken corner to ledge, then tentative slab and crack climbing past three bolts to belay." }, { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "In progress." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": true, "description": null, "ascent": "Paul Rogers, 1997." }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/fiordland/wick-mountains/mt-moir/north-face/project", "name": "Project", "grade": "21", "topo_ref": "10", "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": "16", "description": null }, { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": "21", "description": null } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": "Three pitches (16, 21, 19/A0). The third pitch traverses right under the big\nroof. A good potential line extends up a weakness above pitch two.", "ascent": "Kester Brown, Danny Wood, 2006" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/fiordland/wick-mountains/mt-moir/north-face/biggs-marron", "name": "Biggs Marron", "grade": null, "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": true, "ewbank": null, "description": "Six pitches of aid through the big roof near the Cleddau Buttress, then up gullies to the ridge." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": true, "description": null, "ascent": "Barry Biggs, Reg Marron, Feb 1975." }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/fiordland/wick-mountains/mt-moir/north-face/vindication", "name": "Vindication", "grade": "25,II", "topo_ref": null, "image": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/route/Vindication_1.png?itok=8yqYw4HE", "images": [ { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/route/Vindication_1.png?itok=8yqYw4HE", "height": "325", "width": "230" } ], "length": "145m", "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": "II", "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": "15m", "bolts": "5", "trad": false, "ewbank": "19", "description": "Scramble up the the basre of the pillar forming the right side of the big roof. Double bolt belay to start." }, { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": "30m", "bolts": "6", "trad": false, "ewbank": "20", "description": null }, { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": "15m", "bolts": "6", "trad": false, "ewbank": "24", "description": null }, { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": "35m", "bolts": "8", "trad": false, "ewbank": "25", "description": null }, { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": "30m", "bolts": "8", "trad": false, "ewbank": "22", "description": null }, { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": "20m", "bolts": "5", "trad": false, "ewbank": "20", "description": null } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": "8", "natural_pro": false, "description": "\u201cHairier than Murray\u2019s back. The rock is coarser than Cradock. Fantastic\nroute guys and great rigging job\" \u2013 Homer Hut book. A six-pitch sport route\non immaculate rock. Take 15 quickdraws and belays, and two 60m ropes. Can be\nclimbed at grade 22 A0 if you pull through the grade 24 & 25 crux moves on\npitches three and four.", "ascent": "Murray Ball, Nick Cradock, Milo Gilmour, February 2009" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/fiordland/wick-mountains/mt-moir/north-face/cleddau-buttress", "name": "Cleddau Buttress", "grade": "17", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": true, "ewbank": "17", "description": "The route starts on the northern slopes of the buttress, gaining the crest after 100m. A bit grassy on the lower half, but a real adventure through a series of steep cracks in the centre of the buttress." } ], "quality": 2, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": true, "description": null, "ascent": "Harold Jacobs, Murray Jones, Jan 1967." }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/fiordland/wick-mountains/mt-moir/north-face/cleddau-buttress-0", "name": "Cleddau Buttress", "grade": "V,WI3", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": "V", "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": "WI3", "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "From Homer Saddle weave along the ridge which can almost border on being alpine enough to require a rope. An exposed traverse under Moir\u2019s Mate leads to good bivvy sites. Cross a narrow band under the Mates Little Brother then out across the slopes running down from the upper cirque to the buttress. Conditions on the bottom half of the buttress tend to be similar to summer with grassy sections leading up to a slab. Traverse down and into a gully on the edge of the West Face. From here the route continues up a series of iced up grooves. Steep rock with ice runnels and good rock pro. \r\nThe descent via the southern edge of the West Face is straight forward. The original ascent was a three day round trip." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Geoff Gabites, Ken Hyslop, June 1975." } ], "places": [], "image": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/wide/public/image/Moir%20Nth%20Rhs.jpg?itok=__ZONJPC", "images": [ { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/wide/public/image/Moir%20Nth%20Rhs.jpg?itok=__ZONJPC", "height": "636", "width": "900" } ] }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/fiordland/wick-mountains/mt-moir/south-east-face", "name": "South-East Face", "altitude": null, "access": "From the col between Belle and Moir descend to the face.", "description": "This short face is hidden from view in the upper Nealeburn.", "latlng": null, "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/fiordland/wick-mountains/mt-moir/south-east-face/left-hand-route", "name": "Left-Hand Route", "grade": null, "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": true, "ewbank": null, "description": "A crack line to the left of the original line. The first pitch involves climbing a narrow crack then traversing into the main crack which is sometimes wide enough to climb inside. An overhang followed by slabs leads to the summit." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": true, "description": null, "ascent": "Rob Blackburne, Richard Price, Nick Shearer, Judy Terpstra, Mar 1983." }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/fiordland/wick-mountains/mt-moir/south-east-face/original-line", "name": "Original Line", "grade": null, "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": true, "ewbank": null, "description": "Follow a direct line in the centre of the face, which leads to the summit ridge." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": true, "description": null, "ascent": "Ken Hyslop, Richard Price, Feb 1975." } ], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] } ], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/arthurs-pass/main-divide/phipps-pk": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/arthurs-pass/main-divide/phipps-pk", "name": "Phipps Pk", "altitude": "1965m", "access": null, "description": null, "latlng": [ "-42.8956484", "171.5912962" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/arthurs-pass/main-divide/phipps-pk/temple-basin", "name": "Via Temple Basin", "grade": "2", "topo_ref": "1", "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": "2", "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": null } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": "Phipps Pk can be climbed by following the Main Divide from Arthur's Pass, but it is usual to gain the ridge from Temple Basin by the col west of the summit (and just east of Pt 1728). The gendarme on the ridge below the summit is turned on the Westland side up a small gully. This can be difficult in new snow conditions. Face climbs are also available on impressive, tall slabs on the Temple Basin side, or via steep snow slopes and rock gullies on the southern flank.", "ascent": "G E Mannering, A M Ollivier, W D Wood, F H Polhill, December 1896" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/arthurs-pass/main-divide/phipps-pk/pegleg-creek", "name": "From Pegleg Creek", "grade": "1", "topo_ref": "2", "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": "1", "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": null } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": "The crux of this climb is reaching the headwaters of Pegleg Creek. It\u2019s ugly and it\u2019s a bash! If in doubt follow a deer trail. Once at the head of the creek, climb to the col north of the peak.", "ascent": null }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/arthurs-pass/main-divide/phipps-pk/deception-river", "name": "From Deception River", "grade": "1", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": "1", "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": null } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": "Climb onto the ridge opposite Good Luck Creek, reaching Pt 1820 north of Phipps Pk. (This is a bit of a bash!)", "ascent": null } ], "places": [], "image": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/wide/public/image/phipps%2520peak-south%2520face-routemark_0.jpg?itok=F20g5m9M", "images": [ { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/wide/public/image/phipps%2520peak-south%2520face-routemark_0.jpg?itok=F20g5m9M", "height": "675", "width": "900" }, { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/image/phipps%2520peak-west%2520ridge-routemark1.jpg?itok=P48a2Rkq", "height": "244", "width": "325" } ] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/pt-pisa": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/pt-pisa", "name": "Mt Pisa", "altitude": "1964m", "access": null, "description": null, "latlng": [ "-44.87233522", "169.19116706" ], "routes": [], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aspiring/forbes-mountains/mt-cunningham": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aspiring/forbes-mountains/mt-cunningham", "name": "Mt Cunningham", "altitude": "1963m", "access": null, "description": "tba", "latlng": [ "-44.53731037", "168.5480999" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aspiring/forbes-mountains/mt-cunningham/south-west-face", "name": "South West Face", "grade": "1,I", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": "0m", "pitches": [ { "alpine": "1", "commitment": "I", "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": null } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": "0", "natural_pro": false, "description": "From Shelter Rock Hut climb via the southern slopes or snow couloir.", "ascent": "G.M. Edwards, L.W. Divers, Jan 1934." } ], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/darrans/wick-mountains/lloyd-pk": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/darrans/wick-mountains/lloyd-pk", "name": "Lloyd Pk", "altitude": "1962m", "access": null, "description": null, "latlng": [ "-44.772275", "167.916343" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/fiordland/wick-mountains/lloyd-pk/south-east-ridge", "name": "South East Ridge", "grade": null, "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Bill Gordon, John Trotter, Dec 1968." } ], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aspiring/humboldt-mountains/nereus": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aspiring/humboldt-mountains/nereus", "name": "Nereus", "altitude": "1961m", "access": null, "description": "Can be climbed from the North Col of the Routeburn or from Park Pass, via the north face above Lake Nerine or via the north ridge.", "latlng": [ "-44.64304373", "168.1967171" ], "routes": [], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/1961": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/1961", "name": "Pt 1961", "altitude": "1961m", "access": null, "description": null, "latlng": [ "-44.26551106", "169.04333061" ], "routes": [], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/node/4914/mt-torlesse": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/node/4914/mt-torlesse", "name": "Mt Torlesse", "altitude": "1961m", "access": null, "description": null, "latlng": [ "-43.255", "171.822" ], "routes": [], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/1958": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/1958", "name": "Pt 1958", "altitude": "1958m", "access": null, "description": null, "latlng": [ "-43.2224758", "171.30112589" ], "routes": [], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/westland/kaimata-range/mt-alexander": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/westland/kaimata-range/mt-alexander", "name": "Mt Alexander", "altitude": "1958m", "access": null, "description": "Kaimata Range", "latlng": [ "-42.72423426", "171.60672046" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/westland/kaimata-range/mt-alexander/taramakau-gully-south-face", "name": "Taramakau Gully/ South Face", "grade": "1+", "topo_ref": "A", "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "1+", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "Cross the Taraakau River opposite Rocky Creek. Bah through the easy scrub and swamp to meet the obvious rock gut that cuts a swath south face.. The steep gut has several waterfalls and cliffs which have greasy by-passes, be careful!. Halfway up the route a major fork is met. To follow the true left you will meet a overhung rock choke, which may be possible if you are fearless. Alternativley climb out the gut prior to the fork on its true right, climbing on shrubby ground to join up with an easy rock ridge. This ridge merges into scree slopes, followed by a series of easy gullies and scrambles to the summit" } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": null }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/westland/kaimata-range/mt-alexander/se-ridge", "name": "SE Ridge", "grade": "1+", "topo_ref": "B", "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "1+", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "There is no easy way to approach this ridge, the full flow of the Taramakau River (includes the Otira River) must be crossed in one or two channels, then a west coast scrub bash ensues to gain the upper ridge, from either the true right spur adjacent the creek draining the Mt Howe basin, or an obvious diagonal fault scarp about 200m further downstream. Either way there tends to be some steep, slippery terrain hidden in the beech forest. Once treeline is reached travel along the wide open ridge is easy. Steepening rock is encountered about 300m short of the summit, in winter the snow/ice allows fairly easy travel (beware of cornices!), in summer expect loose, gruddy rock. An alternative is to track west under the ridge rocks using a series of interlinked scree/snow gullies that lead to the summit, this makes an easier descent route (take care in winter as these are also avalanche paths)." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Graeme Kates 2007" } ], "places": [], "image": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/wide/public/image/image06.jpg?itok=Q1wIw70q", "images": [ { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/wide/public/image/image06.jpg?itok=Q1wIw70q", "height": "303", "width": "480" } ] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/turks-head": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/turks-head", "name": "Turks Head", "altitude": "1958m", "access": null, "description": null, "latlng": [ "-42.16443332", "173.28078679" ], "routes": [], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/c58dhau-landsborough/hooker-range/mt-howitt": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/c58dhau-landsborough/hooker-range/mt-howitt", "name": "Mt Howitt", "altitude": "1958m", "access": null, "description": "TBA", "latlng": [ "-43.7174409385", "169.94609232828" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/westland/hooker-range/mt-howitt/karangarua-saddle", "name": "From Karangarua Saddle", "grade": "1", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "1", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": null } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Arthur Harper, December 1894" } ], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aspiring/blue-river/pt-1956-leven-pk": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aspiring/blue-river/pt-1956-leven-pk", "name": "Pt 1956 (Leven Pk)", "altitude": "1956m", "access": null, "description": null, "latlng": [ "-44.13243286", "169.15727424" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aspiring/blue-river/pt-1956-leven-pk/ore-creek-route", "name": "Ore Creek Route", "grade": "2,II", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": "2", "commitment": "II", "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": null } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": "Tramp to the head of Ore Stream, via routes 13E and 13.20 (in pending 2023 Tititea Aspiring Guidebook). These provide a circuitous route onto this impressive peak at the head of Leven Stream. Sidle the flank west under Peak 1938m and cross the Leven \u2013 Blue divide at the north-western end before pinnacles. Climb down or abseil a slab into a snow gully above Leven Stream. Traverse a snowfield until a snow lead allows access back towards the summit ridge past the pinnacles. A rock step at the top is tricky. From here it is a scramble along to the peak.", "ascent": "Nick Shearer, Neil Sloan, January 2023" } ], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/mt-anau": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/mt-anau", "name": "Mt Anau", "altitude": "1956m", "access": null, "description": null, "latlng": [ "-44.86590863", "167.92174653" ], "routes": [], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/canterbury/jollie-range/mt-medhurst": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/canterbury/jollie-range/mt-medhurst", "name": "Mt Medhurst", "altitude": "1955m", "access": null, "description": "na", "latlng": [ "-43.291638", "171.012754" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/canterbury/jollie-range/mt-medhurst/north-ridge", "name": "North Ridge", "grade": "1", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "1", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "A straightforward climb from a break in the scrub about 600 metres west of Washbourne Hut." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "George Roberts, Charlie Douglas, 1880" } ], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/1952": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/1952", "name": "Pt 1952", "altitude": "1952m", "access": null, "description": null, "latlng": [ "-44.74262099", "168.22213854" ], "routes": [], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aspiring/selborne-range/mt-dispute": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aspiring/selborne-range/mt-dispute", "name": "Mt Dispute", "altitude": "1952m", "access": null, "description": "tba", "latlng": [ "-44.134392", "168.95473" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aspiring/selborne-range/mt-dispute/from-the-south-east", "name": "From the south-east", "grade": null, "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "Via snowslopes from the south-east. Grade 1 from the head of Mueller Valley at Lake Dispute." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "T Barcham & A Cunningham, Dec 1950." } ], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aspiring/main-divide/tantalus-rock": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aspiring/main-divide/tantalus-rock", "name": "Tantalus Rock", "altitude": "1951m", "access": null, "description": "Originally called Gehenna Rock, Tantalus Rock was first climbed by Paul Powell and Peter Child on January 10, 1965.", "latlng": [ "-44.345663", "168.833895" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aspiring/main-divide/tantalus-rock/ruth-ridge", "name": "Ruth Ridge", "grade": "III,2", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": "0m", "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": "III", "mtcook": "2", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "" } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": "0", "natural_pro": false, "description": "From the top of Ruth Ridge, Tantalus Rock is but a few minutes\u2019 easy scramble above the Volta N\u00e9v\u00e9. It would probably take about five hours from Ruth Flat to the summit.", "ascent": null } ], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/toreador-peak": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/toreador-peak", "name": "Toreador Pk", "altitude": "1951m", "access": null, "description": null, "latlng": [ "-44.36093005", "168.41139562" ], "routes": [], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/1955": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/1955", "name": "Pt 1948", "altitude": "1948m", "access": null, "description": null, "latlng": [ "-43.56522517", "169.94423057" ], "routes": [], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/canterbury-westland-alps/main-divide/vincent-pk": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/canterbury-westland-alps/main-divide/vincent-pk", "name": "Vincent Pk", "altitude": "1947m", "access": null, "description": null, "latlng": [ "-43.101046", "171.084852" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/canterbury-westland-alps/main-divide/vincent-pk/harcourt-creek", "name": "From Harcourt Creek", "grade": "1", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "1", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "Approached sidling the northern slopes of a spur off Button Peak." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": null } ], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/main-divide-of-the-southern-alps/leda-pk": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/main-divide-of-the-southern-alps/leda-pk", "name": "Leda Pk", "altitude": "1946m", "access": null, "description": null, "latlng": [ "-44.20641754", "168.9338005" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/main-divide-of-the-southern-alps/leda-pk/lake-castalia", "name": "From Lake Castalia", "grade": null, "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "Climb slopes above Lake Castalia to saddle with Wonderland Valley. See Moir\u2019s Guide North, page 151." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "C Bentham, E Miller & S Turner, Jan 1929." } ], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aspiring/main-divide/watkins-dome": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aspiring/main-divide/watkins-dome", "name": "Watkins Dome", "altitude": "1946m", "access": null, "description": null, "latlng": [ "-43.9665", "169.5863" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/%C5%8Dhau-landsborough/main-divide/watkins-dome/upper-studholme-pass", "name": "From Upper Studholme Pass", "grade": "1", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "1", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": null } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": "From Upper Studholme Pass easy slopes lead to the summit.", "ascent": "M.R.Fitchett, Graham Riley, J.D.Willis, Brian Wyn Irwin, February 1934" } ], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aspiring/main-divide/sentinel": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aspiring/main-divide/sentinel", "name": "The Sentinel", "altitude": "1946m", "access": null, "description": null, "latlng": [ "-44.206547", "168.958208" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aspiring/main-divide/sentinel/normal-route", "name": "Normal Route", "grade": "II,1", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": "II", "mtcook": "1", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "Usually climbed as part of a traverse of the Main Divide from either Newland Pass or Lake Castalia." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": null } ], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aspiring/young-river/pt-1946": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aspiring/young-river/pt-1946", "name": "Pt 1946", "altitude": "1946m", "access": null, "description": null, "latlng": [ "-44.16803787", "169.17124312" ], "routes": [], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/darrans/darran-mountains/apirana-pk": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/darrans/darran-mountains/apirana-pk", "name": "Apirana Pk", "altitude": "1946m", "access": null, "description": "This attractive peak above the upper basin of Moraine Creek has some excellent rock climbing.", "latlng": [ "-44.69398219", "168.03147169" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/fiordland/darran-mountains/apirana-pk/south-ridge", "name": "South Ridge", "grade": null, "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": "The overhanging step at the foot of the ridge is passed on the west side. A\nstraightforward ridge to the summit.", "ascent": "Ken Calder, Bruce Clark, Pete Glasson, Calum Hudson, Al Smith, January 1972" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/fiordland/darran-mountains/apirana-pk/south-face", "name": "South Face", "grade": "17", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": true, "ewbank": "17", "description": null } ], "quality": 2, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": true, "description": "From the route around the moraine, climb the tussock fan and sidle right\nacross slabs to the small glacier below the South Face. The face is steep and\nclean: climb the centre of the face finishing directly on the summit (12\npitches on first ascent).", "ascent": "Murray Judge, Al Soon, February 1974" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/fiordland/darran-mountains/apirana-pk/east-ridge", "name": "East Ridge", "grade": null, "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [], "quality": 1, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": "Climb the fantastic slabs to the start of the rock rib; good rock up to the\nsnowfield.", "ascent": "Ian Cave, Mike Gill, Phil Houghton, February 1962" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/fiordland/darran-mountains/apirana-pk/east-ridge-variation", "name": "East Ridge Variation", "grade": "17", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": true, "ewbank": "17", "description": "At the start of the rib traverse right above the gulf then straight up the steep wall." } ], "quality": 2, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": true, "description": null, "ascent": "John McCallum, Richard Thomson, February 1986" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/fiordland/darran-mountains/apirana-pk/north-east-face", "name": "North East Face", "grade": "17", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": true, "ewbank": "17", "description": null } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": true, "description": "Up easy slabs to the centre of the face and up the central corner; loose in\nplaces.", "ascent": "Dave Begg, Murray Judge, February 1974" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/fiordland/darran-mountains/apirana-pk/north-ridge", "name": "North Ridge", "grade": null, "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": "Climb the slabs from Moraine Creek to an easy scramble up the ridge.", "ascent": "Maurice Bishop, Peggy Matthews, 1951" } ], "places": [], "image": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/wide/public/image/Darrans-Apirana-2011.jpeg?itok=-YuhZELH", "images": [ { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/wide/public/image/Darrans-Apirana-2011.jpeg?itok=-YuhZELH", "height": "727", "width": "1090" } ] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/1945": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/1945", "name": "Pt 1945", "altitude": "1945m", "access": null, "description": null, "latlng": [ "-44.79944095", "168.17951117" ], "routes": [], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/mt-clara": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/mt-clara", "name": "Mt Clara", "altitude": "1945m", "access": null, "description": null, "latlng": [ "-42.33177986", "172.69786464" ], "routes": [], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aspiring/west-wanaka-mountains/mt-jumbo": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aspiring/west-wanaka-mountains/mt-jumbo", "name": "Mt Jumbo", "altitude": "1945m", "access": null, "description": null, "latlng": [ "-44.28521841", "168.9880798" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aspiring/west-wanaka-mountains/mt-jumbo/jumboland", "name": "From Jumboland", "grade": "I,1", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": "I", "mtcook": "1", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "Climb the spur at the head of Jumboland Flats. A magnificent viewpoint." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "First recorded ascent N Begg, B Patterson & S Gilkison, Dec 1941." } ], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/canterbury/reeses-ridge/mt-lilian": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/canterbury/reeses-ridge/mt-lilian", "name": "Mt Lilian", "altitude": "1945m", "access": null, "description": "na", "latlng": [ "-42.975767", "171.306982" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/canterbury/reeses-ridge/mt-lilian/farquharson-saddle", "name": "From Farquharson Saddle", "grade": null, "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "From below Farquharson Saddle, traverse south-east to the summit." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": null } ], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/fiordland/llawrenny-peaks/high-pk": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/fiordland/llawrenny-peaks/high-pk", "name": "Llawrenny Pks High Pk", "altitude": "1944m", "access": null, "description": null, "latlng": [ "-44.65791951", "167.80714721" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/fiordland/llawrenny-peaks/high-pk/south-ridge", "name": "South Ridge", "grade": null, "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "Traverse left under Terror Peak to a snow shelf which connects to the South East Ridge of the Llawrenny Peaks. Drop to the lake (shown as a snow basin on maps) which leads to a broad rock ridge then climb snow slopes to the saddle between Middle and High Peaks. Continue along ridge to High Peak. This is a very long and winding ridge, taking a few days to ascend." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Martin Bassett, Ray Copp, Austen Deans, Edgar Williams, Nov 1954." } ], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/canterbury-westland-alps/hitchin-range/ragged-pk": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/canterbury-westland-alps/hitchin-range/ragged-pk", "name": "Ragged Pk", "altitude": "1943m", "access": null, "description": null, "latlng": [ "-43.116711", "170.870962" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/canterbury-westland-alps/hitchin-range/ragged-pk/south-east-ridge", "name": "South East Ridge", "grade": null, "topo_ref": "SER", "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "The Waitaha is easily crossed just below the Reid\u2013Stag Creek forks to reach the ridge.\r\nDescending, aim just upstream of the Reid\u2013Stag Creek junction \u2013 the bottom of the slope\r\nsouth of Pt 1328 metres is cut by a continuous band of bluffs." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "W Ridland, B H Mason, December 1935" } ], "places": [], "image": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/wide/public/image/p253_0.png?itok=ILjdG-Lq", "images": [ { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/wide/public/image/p253_0.png?itok=ILjdG-Lq", "height": "585", "width": "900" } ] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/mt-domet": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/mt-domet", "name": "Mt Domett", "altitude": "1942m", "access": null, "description": null, "latlng": [ "-44.86621899", "170.37061152" ], "routes": [], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aspiring/humboldt-mountains/mt-nox": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aspiring/humboldt-mountains/mt-nox", "name": "Mt Nox", "altitude": "1940m", "access": null, "description": "tba", "latlng": [ "-44.64112108", "168.27460093" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aspiring/humboldt-mountains/mt-nox/north-west-ridge", "name": "North West Ridge", "grade": "2,II", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": "0m", "pitches": [ { "alpine": "2", "commitment": "II", "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": null } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": "0", "natural_pro": false, "description": "Scramble round the head of Lake Unknown to reach the ridge joining Nox and Minos and follow this to the summit. Access to this peak is difficult. Alternatively, from Theatre Flat in the Rock Burn.", "ascent": "D J Galloway, John Holloway, Peter Smith" } ], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/main-divide-of-the-southern-alps/commodore-pk": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/main-divide-of-the-southern-alps/commodore-pk", "name": "Commodore Pk", "altitude": "1940m", "access": null, "description": "Commodore Peak was referred to as Commodore Ridge on maps until about 1970.", "latlng": [ "-42.998872", "171.241665" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/main-divide-of-the-southern-alps/commodore-pk/south-west-ridge", "name": "South West Ridge", "grade": "1", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "1", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "A straightforward traverse from Mt Ambrose along the South West Ridge." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": null }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/main-divide-of-the-southern-alps/commodore-pk/east-ridge", "name": "East Ridge", "grade": "1-", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "From Clarkes Pass, climb tussock and minor bluffs along the Divide, veering left onto a shoulder\r\neast of Commodore Peak. Cross snow basins and ribs beyond, then climb to the summit." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "P Phipps, c 1934" } ], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/main-divide-of-the-southern-alps/mt-beals": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/main-divide-of-the-southern-alps/mt-beals", "name": "Mt Beals", "altitude": "1940m", "access": null, "description": "Can be approached from Twin Peaks along the Main Divide.\nL Parry, A Richards, March 1936", "latlng": [ "-42.947753", "171.315222" ], "routes": [], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/arthurs-pass/polar-range/the-dome": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/arthurs-pass/polar-range/the-dome", "name": "The Dome", "altitude": "1938m", "access": null, "description": "The highest point on the ridge between the Edwards and Waimakariri valleys, best climbed as part of a Polar Range traverse between the Edwards River and Sudden Valley Stream.", "latlng": [ "-42.97739984", "171.6642952" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/arthurs-pass/polar-range/the-dome/lower-edwards-valley", "name": "From Lower Edwards Valley", "grade": "1,I", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": "1", "commitment": "I", "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": null } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": "Climbed from the lower Edwards Valley by a scree slide (use the true left gutter) about 2km above the first gorge (1km below the East Edwards junction). Other approaches can be made through the forest opposite Klondyke Corner.", "ascent": "J Gill, R S Odell, 14 December, 1930" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/arthurs-pass/polar-range/the-dome/sudden-valley-biv", "name": "From Sudden Valley Biv", "grade": "1,I", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": "1", "commitment": "I", "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": null } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": "Ascend the vegetated ridge behind the Sudden Valley Biv, turning northwest to avoid steepening broken slopes. Once the main ridge is reached, it is a relatively easy traverse along its back (most annoyances can be turned on the East Edwards side) to attain the final climb up onto The Dome. This route, though high, may also be used to return to the lower Edwards River (summer only): continue along the ridge onto Point 1920m, dropping true right to a very small 'green' tarn. Continue sidling to the head of a very large scree slope, descending directly to the valley floor.", "ascent": null }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/arthurs-pass/polar-range/the-dome/mt-wilson-mt-scott-dome-traverse", "name": "Mt Wilson-Mt Scott-The Dome Traverse", "grade": "1,I", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": "1", "commitment": "I", "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": null } ], "quality": 1, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": "Ascend Mt Wilson or Scott: From Polar Range , leaving your un-necessary overnight equipment on the col just north of the 1853m point. Ascend Mts Wilson and Scott using the rotten rock ridge from the col (Grade. 1+). Recovering your equipment, it is best to sidle high on the screes true-left of East Edwards River to avoid the following 2km of loose, rotten ridgeline. A camp below the 1669m saddle is the best option. Regain the ridge at this point, climbing the buttressed face onto the Dome. Easy walking follows onto the 1920m summit, dropping true-right to a very small green tarn. Continue sidling to the head of the very large scree slope, descending directly to the lower Edwards Valley.", "ascent": null }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/arthurs-pass/polar-range/the-dome/lower-waimakariri-river", "name": "From Lower the Waimakariri River", "grade": "2,II", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": "2", "commitment": "II", "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": null } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": "Approached via Douglas Stream or Red Beech Stream near the Cora Lynn siding on the Midland Railway (northern side of the Waimakariri River). Both of these approaches are very difficult in terms of waterfall, bluff and thick vegetation obstacles below the treeline. Once out of the jungle on Douglas Stream a very steep rock amphitheatre is encountered. A steep scree on the true-left, adjacent the bush, gives access to the steep Southeast Ridge of the Dome. Alternatively sidle across under the Dome to the gully above the waterfalls and ascend its West Ridge. In winter this area is avalanche prone. (Grade 2-) The head of Red Beech Stream leads to easy scree slides that access the main ridgelines of the Dome. (Grade. 1+) Attempt these routes as ascents only! (i.e. Don\u2019t come down them!)", "ascent": null } ], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/canterbury-westland-alps/butler-range/king-pk": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/canterbury-westland-alps/butler-range/king-pk", "name": "King Pk", "altitude": "1938m", "access": null, "description": "This peak was reported unclimbed in 1955. Although no record has been found of an ascent, it is highly likely to have been climbed several times. It was originally called Pyramid Peak, probably by Barrowman and Apperley, and is a striking peak viewed from the Gunn Tops.", "latlng": [ "-43.429487", "170.424299" ], "routes": [], "places": [], "image": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/wide/public/image/SthButler.png?itok=_JfFjJrs", "images": [ { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/wide/public/image/SthButler.png?itok=_JfFjJrs", "height": "476", "width": "900" } ] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/canterbury/puketeraki-range/chest-pk": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/canterbury/puketeraki-range/chest-pk", "name": "Chest Pk", "altitude": "1936m", "access": null, "description": "Puketeraki Range", "latlng": [ "-43.10307685", "172.02074821" ], "routes": [], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/mt-cardrona": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/mt-cardrona", "name": "Mt Cardrona", "altitude": "1936m", "access": null, "description": null, "latlng": [ "-44.85116977", "168.93922452" ], "routes": [], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/mt-mitchelson": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/mt-mitchelson", "name": "Mt Mitchelson", "altitude": "1936m", "access": null, "description": null, "latlng": [ "-44.80141828", "167.89063051" ], "routes": [], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/darrans/wick-mountains/mt-gendarme": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/darrans/wick-mountains/mt-gendarme", "name": "Mt Gendarme", "altitude": "1935m", "access": null, "description": null, "latlng": [ "-44.785587", "167.945353" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/fiordland/wick-mountains/mt-gendarme/east-ridge", "name": "East Ridge", "grade": null, "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Bob Cuthill, Lloyd Warburton, Bryce Wood, Apr 1956." } ], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/eyetooth": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/eyetooth", "name": "Eyetooth", "altitude": "1934m", "access": null, "description": null, "latlng": [ "-44.08827246", "169.13012659" ], "routes": [], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/arthurs-pass/jellicoe-ridge/mt-stewart": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/arthurs-pass/jellicoe-ridge/mt-stewart", "name": "Mt Stewart", "altitude": "1934m", "access": null, "description": "Mt Stewart sits at the end of Jellicoe Ridge, above the lower Crow valley.", "latlng": null, "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/arthurs-pass/jellicoe-ridge/mt-stewart/west", "name": "From the West", "grade": "1,I", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": "1", "commitment": "I", "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "Reached by the stream which drains the Jellicoe Ridge 1km downstream of the White River con\u00dfuence. Moving east onto the tussock slopes once clear of the bushline, head towards the saddle between Mt Guinevere and Mt Stewart. Both mountains may be reached via this route on their respective ridges." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": null }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/arthurs-pass/jellicoe-ridge/mt-stewart/south-east-ridge", "name": "South East Ridge", "grade": "1,I", "topo_ref": "1", "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": "1", "commitment": "I", "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "From the confluence of the Waimakariri and Crow Rivers. An alternative route follows the slope opposite Greenlaw Creek to access the bush line and then sidles east into the south basin and on to the Low Peak." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "R R Chester, I W Tucker, C W Evans and A H Candy, 1927" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/arthurs-pass/jellicoe-ridge/mt-stewart/lower-crow-river", "name": "From Lower Crow River", "grade": "1,I", "topo_ref": "2", "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": "1", "commitment": "I", "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "Ascended out of the lower Crow River via the scree (Otira 886035) that leaves the Crow River about 2km upstream from its confluence with the Waimakariri River. Follow the slope around to the south at its head aiming for a narrow couloir/rockgut that ascends onto a spur leading to the 1810m knob (an easier climb with snow). The narrow, craggy South Ridge is then ascended onto MT STEWART. (Ungraded)" } ], "quality": 1, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": null }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/arthurs-pass/jellicoe-ridge/mt-stewart/north-east-ridge", "name": "North East Ridge", "grade": "2,I", "topo_ref": "3", "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": "2", "commitment": "I", "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "Climb the narrrow scree gut leaving the Crow River 150m downstream of the major creek that drains the basins under Mt Guinevere. Ascend 500m then break left or right up the loose steep ground to join the easier slopes of the North East Ridge to the summit." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": null } ], "places": [], "image": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/wide/public/image/Stewart-Crow_valley.jpg?itok=e1wElUs6", "images": [ { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/wide/public/image/Stewart-Crow_valley.jpg?itok=e1wElUs6", "height": "480", "width": "640" } ] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki/sealy-range/mt-ollivier": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki/sealy-range/mt-ollivier", "name": "Mt Ollivier", "altitude": "1933m", "access": null, "description": null, "latlng": [ "-43.72558383", "170.01471519" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki/sealy-range/mt-ollivier/mueller-hut", "name": "From Mueller Hut", "grade": "1,I", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": "0m", "pitches": [ { "alpine": "1", "commitment": "I", "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": null } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": "0", "natural_pro": false, "description": "Up easy rock from the slopes behind Mueller Hut. There are numerous variations. Take care if cloud comes in while you\u2019re out \u2013 the hut is harder to find when descending than you think.", "ascent": null } ], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aspiring/barrier-range/frobisher": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aspiring/barrier-range/frobisher", "name": "Frobisher", "altitude": "1931m", "access": null, "description": "Named Franklin in earlier accounts.", "latlng": [ "-44.494241", "168.429462" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aspiring/barrier-range/frobisher/oleary-pass", "name": "From O\u2019Leary Pass", "grade": "2,II", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": "0m", "pitches": [ { "alpine": "2", "commitment": "II", "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": null } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": "0", "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": null } ], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/darrans/darran-mountains/mt-mcpherson": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/darrans/darran-mountains/mt-mcpherson", "name": "Mt McPherson", "altitude": "1931m", "access": null, "description": "Often climbed as part of a traverse from Homer Saddle to Gertrude Saddle.\nMcPherson Cirque, below, has good winter routes.\nThe east facing cliffs to the left of Macpherson Cirque which finish below Talbot\u2019s Ladder have a number of long gullies which form up occasionally to give quality winter climbing. They also have the advantage of quick easy access and a safe descent down Talbot\u2019s Ladder to Homer Saddle.\nMacpherson was named \u2018Snowball\u2019 by Grave and Talbot on the original ascent. On a fine day the summit provides panoramic 360 degree views of the mountains of Fiordland.", "latlng": [ "-44.74844007", "167.97572136" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/fiordland/darran-mountains/mt-mcpherson/talbot%E2%80%99s-ladder", "name": "Talbot\u2019s Ladder", "grade": null, "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": "From Homer Saddle there is an easy route to Macpherson up the ridge, over a\nrock step known as Talbot's Ladder.\nThe rock step is not exactly a garden path, many parties have opted for a\nrope over this section.\nIn Winter, the Ladder is a fine excursion for a short day, with a grade of II\n2.\nThe descent of the ridge in Winter may well require an abseil or two. Note\nthat the metal stakes on the ridge don't always follow the most natural\ndescent line, nor are they always easy to locate.", "ascent": "William Grave, Arthur Talbot, Jan 1910." }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/fiordland/darran-mountains/mt-mcpherson/gulliver-north-face", "name": "Gulliver (North) Face", "grade": "15", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": true, "ewbank": "15", "description": "Four pitches. Descend from the East Ridge to a snowfield on the north side and climb a rib to the summit." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": true, "description": null, "ascent": "Geoff Gabites, Mark Gabites, 1980." } ], "places": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/darrans/darran-mountains/mt-mcpherson/mcpherson-cirque", "name": "McPherson Cirque", "altitude": null, "access": "Winter Descent Routes.\nThere is a descent route at the west end of the cirque using steep slopes and gullies. The safest descent would be to rappel the route you climbed.", "description": "The most accessible winter climbs in the Darrans are here.\nA number of rock routes exist on the left side of the Macpherson Cirque around the Homer Face route. All climb up clean rock on interesting and varied terrain to a point just above Talbot\u2019s Ladder. Follow a ramp system on the left side of the waterfalls into the upper cirque then up snow slopes for 100m.\nThe winter routes in the Macpherson Cirque are a short walk from Homer Hut when winter parking restrictions are in force. There isn\u2019t a piece of mountain in the cirque safe from avalanches in the wrong conditions. In 1992 the snowfield near the summit of Mt Macpherson was actively controlled by explosives. The result was a fracture line that ran from near Talbot around to near Talbot\u2019s Ladder on Macpherson. The debris running over the snow surface turned it to ice the consistency of the sword Excalibur. The avalanche almost ran to the road.", "latlng": null, "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/fiordland/darran-mountains/mt-mcpherson/mcpherson-cirque/macpherson-cirque", "name": "Macpherson Cirque", "grade": null, "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": true, "ewbank": null, "description": "Climb the left-hand end of the waterfall wall across from the tunnel, then snow basins to the summit. Watch for avalanche danger early in the season. A clean rock rib to the right offers pleasant easy scrambling and can overcome a break in the snow basin which can be a major obstacle when it opens up." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": true, "description": null, "ascent": "Bill Gordon, Gerry Hall-Jones, Jan 1954." } ], "places": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/darrans/darran-mountains/mt-mcpherson/mcpherson-cirque/left-hand-buttresses", "name": "Left Hand Buttresses", "altitude": null, "access": "Easy access via the normal McPherson Cirque Approach. Best descent is down Talbot's Ladder", "description": "This is the large, relatively easy angled slabby face bounding the left hand side of McPherson Cirque. The Winter routes on this face are less exposed to objective danger than those in other parts of the Cirque.\nThe slabby pyramid shaped face between Midnight Cowboy and the Homer Saddle gives good climbing in both Summer and Winter, just pick a line and make it as hard or easy as you want. Worth considering for a shorter day.", "latlng": null, "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/fiordland/darran-mountains/mt-mcpherson/mcpherson-cirque/left-hand-buttresses/home-turf", "name": "Home Turf", "grade": "4,II", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": "190m", "pitches": [ { "alpine": "4", "commitment": "II", "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": "190m", "bolts": null, "trad": true, "ewbank": null, "description": null } ], "quality": 1, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": true, "description": "Fun wee turf route best when conditions are thin. Joins Midnight Cowboy about\n1/3-1/2 height. Pitches 1-2 can be avoided by scrambling to tussock ledge at\nthe base of pitch 3 (see topo). Finish as for MC, or scramble down MC and rap\nto ledge (2x 60m ropes) and descend access route. Gear is generally medium\nwires, hexes and cams to size 1 if not too icy. Knifeblade pitons are handy.\n\nBridging up the gully right of original start to Midnight Cowboy. Average\ngear. 40m\nSolo or easy pitch up tussock ramp tending left to reach ledge at base of\nobvious corner system. 60m\nUp obvious corner to cave. Pull up out of roof (height is an advantage\nhere) to a belay. Good gear. 50m\nClimb above belay to strenuous undercling traverse right and into an\nawesome turf groove. Climb turf and exit at the top of the natural line to\neasy tussock ramp on Midnight Cowboy. Good gear. 40m", "ascent": "Ruari Macfarlane and Jaz Morris, June 2013." }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/fiordland/darran-mountains/mt-mcpherson/mcpherson-cirque/left-hand-buttresses/midnight-cowboy", "name": "Midnight Cowboy", "grade": "2,III", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": "700m", "pitches": [ { "alpine": "2", "commitment": "III", "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": "700m", "bolts": null, "trad": true, "ewbank": null, "description": null } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": true, "description": "A long moderate route up the crest of the buttress to the left of the obvious\ngully of Coumshingaun. Has alternative starts and finishes. A good choice if\nconditions elsewhere in the Cirque are dubious.\nStart up the icy groove just right of the centre of the base of the buttress,\nheading for the snowfield, or make an ascending rightwards traverse across\nthe snowfield via an easy ramp on the left. Head for a block on the edge of\nthe buttress, overlooking Coumshingaun. Climb up through the rock band.\nContinue on up the steepening crest of the ridge for a few rope lengths, then\nthrough another rock band to a small saddle below the top rock pyramid, pitch\nas required. Depending on conditions, either climb the difficult rock step on\nthe ridge, and follow steep snow to the top of Talbot's Ladder, or, if there\nis sufficient snow and ice, traverse left to belay at the foot of a wide\ngroove, which is climbed to a belay among blocks and flakes below a steep\nwall.Move leftwards round the edge, then a long exposed traverse leads to\nTalbot's Ladder a short distance below the top.", "ascent": "S. Skelton, H. Macdonald, M. Gennet, A. Walker, August 2007" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/fiordland/darran-mountains/mt-mcpherson/mcpherson-cirque/left-hand-buttresses/coumshingaun", "name": "Coumshingaun", "grade": "3,III", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": "600m", "pitches": [ { "alpine": "3", "commitment": "III", "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": "600m", "bolts": null, "trad": true, "ewbank": null, "description": null } ], "quality": 2, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": true, "description": "A classic traditional style route, with a varying number of ice pitches,\ntaking the obvious curving gully. Excellent climbing and situations, often\nmore difficult than it might appear from below due to powder snow in the\nsteep middle section. If this is the case it may be easier to climb the\nslabby rocks to the left of the groove, and traverse back into the gully once\nit lies back again. There is a choice of exits at the top, but staying in the\nmain gully is recommended.", "ascent": "S. Mulvaney, J. Taylor, July 1996" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/fiordland/darran-mountains/mt-mcpherson/mcpherson-cirque/left-hand-buttresses/homer-face", "name": "Homer Face", "grade": null, "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": true, "ewbank": null, "description": "Take the big pillar out of the Macpherson Cirque finishing just above Talbot's Ladder. A long grassy route." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": true, "description": null, "ascent": "John Begg, Nick Edge, Calum Hudson, Jill Kelman, 1978." }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/fiordland/darran-mountains/mt-mcpherson/mcpherson-cirque/left-hand-buttresses/the-key", "name": "The Key", "grade": "4,III", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": "4", "commitment": "III", "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "Starts up the access gully to the upper McPherson Cirque. Continue up the gully past another pitch of moderate climbing to a snowfield. Continue to the top of the snowfiled and climb the right-most icefall. Climb steepening ice to more moderate ground, tending rightward under the buttress. Stay true to the line (might be possible to escape further out right) and follow a shallow corner to the rolling snow field near the top. Continue to the ridge and descend the Ladder." } ], "quality": 2, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Steve Skelton, Al Walker, June 2015" } ], "places": [], "image": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/wide/public/image/McPherson%20Circus%20LHS%20Topo_0.jpg?itok=poMT0w26", "images": [ { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/wide/public/image/McPherson%20Circus%20LHS%20Topo_0.jpg?itok=poMT0w26", "height": "675", "width": "900" } ] }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/darrans/darran-mountains/mt-mcpherson/mcpherson-cirque/upper-cirque-left-wall", "name": "Upper Cirque Left Wall", "altitude": null, "access": "Via the McPherson Cirque path, to below the cliffs, then either up the access/descent route on the left hand side of the lower tier, or climb one of the routes on the lower tier.\nBest descent is down Talbot's Ladder.", "description": "This is the East facing cliff on the left hand side of the Upper Cirque, with many prominent icy lines. Climbing on this cliff is very good, but it does catch the sun at times through the day.\nBe wary of snow conditions in the Upper Cirque.", "latlng": null, "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/fiordland/darran-mountains/mt-mcpherson/mcpherson-cirque/upper-cirque-left-wall/the-road", "name": "The Road", "grade": "4,III", "topo_ref": "1", "image": null, "images": [], "length": "220m", "pitches": [ { "alpine": "4", "commitment": "III", "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": "220m", "bolts": null, "trad": true, "ewbank": null, "description": null } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": true, "description": "An aesthetic. laser line of ice, directly up the left hand side of the cliff.\nClimbed as 5 pitches, pitons are useful for belays.\nThe top pitch gets the sun early in the afternoon.", "ascent": "S. Fortune, R. Measures, July 2012" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/fiordland/darran-mountains/mt-mcpherson/mcpherson-cirque/upper-cirque-left-wall/no-country-for-old-men", "name": "No Country For Old Men", "grade": "4,III", "topo_ref": "2", "image": null, "images": [], "length": "220m", "pitches": [ { "alpine": "4", "commitment": "III", "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": "220m", "bolts": null, "trad": true, "ewbank": null, "description": null } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": true, "description": "This is the deep central gully line, and forms an excellent and interesting\nice climb.\nNot recorded when first climbed, the route was resdiscovered by S. Fortune\nand R. Measures in July 2012.", "ascent": "A. Uren, G. Charles, S. Howells, 2000" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/fiordland/darran-mountains/mt-mcpherson/mcpherson-cirque/upper-cirque-left-wall/dark-waters", "name": "Dark Waters", "grade": "6,III", "topo_ref": "DW", "image": null, "images": [], "length": "220m", "pitches": [ { "alpine": "6", "commitment": "III", "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": "220m", "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": null } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": "The groove/corner up buttress to right of No Country For Old Men. 2 pitches\nup thinly ices grooves, then 2 steep mixed pitches up corner going right of\nroof.", "ascent": "B Dare, S Fortune July 2017" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/fiordland/darran-mountains/mt-mcpherson/mcpherson-cirque/upper-cirque-left-wall/the-crossing", "name": "The Crossing", "grade": "4,III", "topo_ref": "3", "image": null, "images": [], "length": "220m", "pitches": [ { "alpine": "4", "commitment": "III", "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": "220m", "bolts": null, "trad": true, "ewbank": null, "description": null } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": true, "description": "Climbs the larger ice flow on the right hand side of the cliff.\nClimb the ice flow for 60m. Continue up the ice flow, over the overlap, and\nup snow slopes to belay under an ice pillar, 60m. Climb the pillar thropugh\noverhangs, then up mixed ground to a belay on the left, 60m. Follow the easy\ngully to snowfields below the ridge.", "ascent": "T. Steward, J. Harrison, July 2012" } ], "places": [], "image": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/wide/public/image/UMPL%20topo2.jpg?itok=bt6tkTYi", "images": [ { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/wide/public/image/UMPL%20topo2.jpg?itok=bt6tkTYi", "height": "675", "width": "900" } ] }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/darrans/darran-mountains/mt-mcpherson/mcpherson-cirque/upper-cirque-central-wall", "name": "Upper Cirque Central Wall", "altitude": null, "access": "Via the McPherson Cirque path, and then either up the access/descent route at the left hand end of the lower tier, or climb one of the routes on the lower tier.\nBest descent is either over the top to Talbot's Ladder, or abseil the route back into the floor of the Upper Cirque, dependent on the state of the snow above the cliff.", "description": "The cliff directly above the lower tier of cliffs, in the centre of the Cirque. This cliff may largely bank out and become snow covered as the season progresses.\nBe very wary of snow conditions in the Upper Cirque.", "latlng": null, "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/fiordland/darran-mountains/mt-mcpherson/mcpherson-cirque/upper-cirque-central-wall/bombay-sapphire", "name": "Bombay Sapphire", "grade": "4,III", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": "150m", "pitches": [ { "alpine": "4", "commitment": "III", "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": "150m", "bolts": null, "trad": true, "ewbank": null, "description": null } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": true, "description": "On the left hand side of the cliff, the steep ice flow is climbed in 3\npitches. The first pitch finishes at a superb belay cave.", "ascent": "R. Measures, V. Wills, H. James, July 2012" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/fiordland/darran-mountains/mt-mcpherson/mcpherson-cirque/upper-cirque-central-wall/elusive", "name": "Elusive Leprechaun", "grade": "III, 5", "topo_ref": null, "image": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/routes/ELP.jpg?itok=4l5joHtU", "images": [ { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/routes/ELP.jpg?itok=4l5joHtU", "height": "246", "width": "325" } ], "length": null, "pitches": [], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": "III, 5, 3 pitches up LHS upper tier McPherson Cirque", "ascent": "Ben Dare, Danny murphy, Stephen Skelton 2013" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/fiordland/darran-mountains/mt-mcpherson/mcpherson-cirque/upper-cirque-central-wall/cow-tools", "name": "Cow Tools", "grade": "II, 4", "topo_ref": null, "image": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/routes/Cow_Tools_cartoon.png?itok=g78WuHOv", "images": [ { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/routes/Cow_Tools_cartoon.png?itok=g78WuHOv", "height": "325", "width": "262" } ], "length": null, "pitches": [], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": "Ice forming a pillar on LHS of cave", "ascent": "Steven Fortune, Ben Dare, 2022" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/darrans/darran-mountains/mt-mcpherson/mcpherson-cirque/upper-cirque-central-wall/crystal-ship", "name": "Crystal Ship", "grade": "III-IV, 6-7", "topo_ref": null, "image": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/routes/CS2.jpg?itok=0_EgTaVg", "images": [ { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/routes/CS2.jpg?itok=0_EgTaVg", "height": "325", "width": "244" }, { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/routes/CS1.jpg?itok=8tTmIcE0", "height": "317", "width": "325" } ], "length": null, "pitches": [], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": "A rarely formed, free hanging pillar over cave in middle of upper tier. Formed in the super season of 2015, not often seen in!", "ascent": "Ben Dare, Steven Fortune, 2015" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/fiordland/darran-mountains/mt-mcpherson/mcpherson-cirque/upper-cirque-central-wall/freeloading", "name": "Freeloading", "grade": "3,III", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": "3", "commitment": "III", "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": true, "ewbank": null, "description": null } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": true, "description": "Consisting of 3 pitches of ice on the right hand side of the cliff, the\nprecise line of this route is uncertain. The ascent possibly took a line up\nthe wide icefall immediately to the right of the roofs. The grade is also\nuncertain.\nSo named because Andy MacFarlane was becoming fed up with other Winter\nclimbers not paying their hut dues.....", "ascent": "P. Corbett, A. MacFarlane, July 1996" } ], "places": [], "image": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/wide/public/image/UMP%20Topo_0.jpg?itok=l6bw_-Xb", "images": [ { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/wide/public/image/UMP%20Topo_0.jpg?itok=l6bw_-Xb", "height": "675", "width": "900" } ] }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/darrans/darran-mountains/mt-mcpherson/mcpherson-cirque/main-cliff-lower-tier", "name": "Main Cliff / Lower Tier", "altitude": null, "access": "Via the McPherson Cirque path to the foot of the cliff.\nDescent is either abseil back down the route, or down the access descent route at the left hand end of the cliff.", "description": "This is the steep wall in the middle of the Cirque, rising from the floor of the Cirque, directly ahead as one walks up the McPherson Cirque path from the Homer Tunnel.", "latlng": null, "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/fiordland/darran-mountains/mt-mcpherson/mcpherson-cirque/main-cliff/lower-tier/classic-hits-and-memories", "name": "Classic Hits and Memories", "grade": "III,WI4", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": "III", "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": "WI4", "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "This is a steep interesting gully climb that at one point narrows into a chimney. Three to four enjoyable pitches." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Ros Goulding, Allan Uren, Dave Vass, July 1992." }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/fiordland/darran-mountains/mt-mcpherson/mcpherson-cirque/main-cliff/lower-tier/blue", "name": "Blue", "grade": "IV,WI4", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": "IV", "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": "WI4", "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "Blue is an icicle that forms near the top of the cirque wall. The colour of it is quite striking, resembling the deep blue seen in seracs. Moderate climbing leads to a crux icicle." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Allan Uren, Dave Vass, July 1992." }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/fiordland/darran-mountains/mt-mcpherson/mcpherson-cirque/main-cliff/lower-tier/gabites-rogan", "name": "Gabites Rogan", "grade": "III,WI3", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": "III", "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": "WI3", "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "The route lie immediately left of the large cleft.\r\nTakes the left-hand of the two ice runnels. Two pitches of steep climbing lead to a level bench then a further three pitches to the snowfield.\r\nThis was the first winter route put up on the lower cirque." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Geoff Gabites, Kevin Rogan, 1973." }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/fiordland/darran-mountains/mt-mcpherson/mcpherson-cirque/main-cliff/lower-tier/gomer", "name": "Gomer", "grade": "3,III", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": "3", "commitment": "III", "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "The route lies immediately left of the large cleft.\r\nThe frozen waterfall right of the Gabites-Rogan route, joining it at half height." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Brian Weedon, Nigel Perry, July 1981." }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/fiordland/darran-mountains/mt-mcpherson/mcpherson-cirque/main-cliff/lower-tier/the-celtic-connection", "name": "The Celtic Connection", "grade": "7,III", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": "7", "commitment": "III", "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": null } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": "Classic technical winter climbing with thin ice and adequate protection.", "ascent": "Alan Uren, Ron Dempster, Max Gough, July 2009" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/fiordland/darran-mountains/mt-mcpherson/mcpherson-cirque/main-cliff/lower-tier/rabbit-run", "name": "Rabbit Run", "grade": "III,WI3", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": "III", "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": "WI3", "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "The large ramp and corner immediately right of Gomer." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Nigel Perry (solo), Aug 1981." }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/fiordland/darran-mountains/mt-mcpherson/mcpherson-cirque/main-cliff/lower-tier/ether", "name": "Ether", "grade": "5,IV", "topo_ref": null, "image": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/routes/Ether.jpg?itok=xu_FC4MF", "images": [ { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/routes/Ether.jpg?itok=xu_FC4MF", "height": "244", "width": "325" } ], "length": "220m", "pitches": [ { "alpine": "5", "commitment": "IV", "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": "220m", "bolts": null, "trad": true, "ewbank": null, "description": null } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": true, "description": "Takes the groove line from the top of the pedestal between Rabbit Run and\nStirling Moss. Climbed with good neve and thin ice. A committing line with\nprotection and belays hard to find.", "ascent": "S Fortune, B Dare, July 2015" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/fiordland/darran-mountains/mt-mcpherson/mcpherson-cirque/main-cliff/lower-tier/stirling-moss", "name": "Stirling Moss", "grade": "IV,WI6", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": "IV", "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": "WI6", "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "The gnarly central line which is a prominent waterfall during summer. The second pitch is what gave everybody such a hard time. The flow forms over a small roof and the icicle doesn\u2019t often join up. The resulting pull on frozen moss has spat at least one climber off. After the crux there are a few pitches up a 70 degree path of usually good water ice.\r\nStirling Moss is named after Dave Vass\u2019 Triumph car which could almost find its own way to the Darrans from Dunedin. The route was ground down in July 1992 by two separate parties. Dave Fearnley, Matt Evrard, and Brian Alder climbed the crux lower pitches the day after Dave Vass and Allan Uren climbed the upper pitches by traversing in from the right." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Brian Alder, Matt Evrard, Dave Fearnley, July 1992." }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/fiordland/darran-mountains/mt-mcpherson/mcpherson-cirque/main-cliff/lower-tier/thrill-frenzy-ramp-start-to-stirl", "name": "Thrill Frenzy Ramp start to Stirling Moss", "grade": "IV,WI5", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": "IV", "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": "WI5", "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "If the lower pitches of Stirling Moss are absent it is possible to traverse in from the right on a steeply rising ramp which starts near a large overhang. Be prepared for some tricky mixed climbing protected with pitons." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Dave Vass, Allan Uren, July 1992." }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/fiordland/darran-mountains/mt-mcpherson/mcpherson-cirque/main-cliff/lower-tier/1964-hq-holden", "name": "1964 HQ Holden", "grade": "III,WI3", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": "III", "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": "WI3", "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "Right of the start to Thrill Frenzy is an alcove. 1964 HQ Holden goes up the middle of this alcove. Watch out for monsters lurking in deep pools." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Allan Uren, Dave Vass, July 1992." } ], "places": [], "image": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/wide/public/image/McPherson%20Circus%20Central%20Topo_plus%20Ether.jpg?itok=I2Ve5SnB", "images": [ { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/wide/public/image/McPherson%20Circus%20Central%20Topo_plus%20Ether.jpg?itok=I2Ve5SnB", "height": "675", "width": "900" } ] } ], "image": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/wide/public/image/McPherson%20Circus%20Topography.jpg?itok=7zyPz0mk", "images": [ { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/wide/public/image/McPherson%20Circus%20Topography.jpg?itok=7zyPz0mk", "height": "675", "width": "900" } ] }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/darrans/darran-mountains/mt-mcpherson/south-face", "name": "South Face", "altitude": null, "access": null, "description": "From above Talbot\u2019s Ladder traverse left over the snowfield to this small face.", "latlng": null, "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/fiordland/darran-mountains/mt-mcpherson/south-face/original-route", "name": "Original Route", "grade": null, "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Bill Gordon, Gerry Hall-Jones, Jan 1954." }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/fiordland/darran-mountains/mt-mcpherson/south-face/edge-hudson", "name": "Edge Hudson", "grade": null, "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "Four pitches. Climb a rib overlooking the Cleddau." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Nick Edge, Calum Hudson, 1978." } ], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] } ], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/misty-peak": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/misty-peak", "name": "Misty Pk", "altitude": "1930m", "access": null, "description": null, "latlng": [ "-44.09560263", "169.10714678" ], "routes": [], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/barefell": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/barefell", "name": "Barefell", "altitude": "1928m", "access": null, "description": null, "latlng": [ "-42.16558178", "173.13556875" ], "routes": [], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/fiordland/darran-mountains/halfway-pk": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/fiordland/darran-mountains/halfway-pk", "name": "Halfway Pk", "altitude": "1928m", "access": null, "description": "First ascended by Marie Byles, Tom Cameron, Kurt Suter, 1937.", "latlng": [ "-44.55918223", "168.0047107" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/fiordland/darran-mountains/halfway-pk/kaipo", "name": "From Kaipo", "grade": null, "topo_ref": null, "image": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/routes/DSC02157.JPG?itok=W1NOAwmV", "images": [ { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/routes/DSC02157.JPG?itok=W1NOAwmV", "height": "217", "width": "325" } ], "length": null, "pitches": [], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": "Climb tussock spur up to Pt 1692.", "ascent": null } ], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/joe-peak": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/joe-peak", "name": "Joe Pk", "altitude": "1927m", "access": null, "description": null, "latlng": [ "-44.28527855", "168.50384578" ], "routes": [], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/canterbury-westland-alps/butler-range/tohunga-pk": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/canterbury-westland-alps/butler-range/tohunga-pk", "name": "Tohunga Pk", "altitude": "1926m", "access": null, "description": null, "latlng": [ "-43.395194", "170.497169" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/canterbury-westland-alps/butler-range/tohunga-pk/north-east-ridge", "name": "North East Ridge", "grade": "2", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "2", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "From the Whataroa Glacier sidle steep slopes, best under snow, to a rib off Whataroa Peak, and\r\ncross the snow gully beyond. Three rope-lengths on poor rock lead to the col between Tohunga\r\nand a sharp subsidiary of Whataroa Peak. A rock outcrop on the summit ridge can be traversed\r\nlow on the Whataroa side. A reasonable route in suitable snow conditions, but otherwise pretty\r\ntricky. This party descended the obvious snow gully directly back to Ice Lake, which they don\u2019t\r\nrecommend." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Mike Andrews, Ross Eden, Philip Paton, 24 January 1979" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/canterbury-westland-alps/butler-range/tohunga-pk/hughes-creek", "name": "From Hughes Creek", "grade": "1", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "1", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "From Nolans Hut in the Perth, access Hughes Creek and follow it up. Travel is reasonably good,\r\nbut there is a gorge to sidle between the 600- and 700-metre contours and a rougher bouldery\r\nsection below the forks at 760 metres. Continue south and head up a side creek in open going\r\nthrough scattered scrub from I35 063553 / BW17 964 936. This creek splits into two tiny parallel\r\ncreeks draining from the peak. Continue south-east up the face to the summit. If traversing\r\nbetween Tohunga and Whataroa Peaks, a short vertical section of difficult rock east of the col\r\nbetween the peaks would probably require a rope." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Andrew Buglass, late 1980s" } ], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/canterbury/reeses-ridge/mt-walter": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/canterbury/reeses-ridge/mt-walter", "name": "Mt Walter", "altitude": "1925m", "access": null, "description": "na", "latlng": [ "-42.969047", "171.307755" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/canterbury/reeses-ridge/mt-walter/farquharson-saddle", "name": "From Farquharson Saddle", "grade": null, "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "From Farquharson Saddle follow a broad ridge south of Retreat Snowfield to join the North\r\nRidge to the summit." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Ernie Rich, Arthur Lees, December 1934" } ], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/main-divide-of-the-southern-alps/mt-tancred": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/main-divide-of-the-southern-alps/mt-tancred", "name": "Mt Tancred", "altitude": "1925m", "access": null, "description": null, "latlng": [ "-43.085439", "171.119614" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/main-divide-of-the-southern-alps/mt-tancred/south-ridge", "name": "South Ridge", "grade": "1", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "1", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "A simple climb from Mathias Pass." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Tom Beckett, G E (Bert) Mabin, O M Prebble, F K Akhurst, K B Batty, Darcy Pilbrow, Maurice" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/main-divide-of-the-southern-alps/mt-tancred/ayran-ridge", "name": "Ayran Ridge", "grade": null, "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "The Ayran Ridge rises from upper Canyon Creek to Pt 1896 metres and then on to Mt Tancred." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "G E (Bert) Mabin and others, April 1935" } ], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/fiordland/llawrenny-peaks/north-pk": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/fiordland/llawrenny-peaks/north-pk", "name": "Llawrenny Pks North Pk", "altitude": "1925m", "access": null, "description": null, "latlng": [ "-44.65125328", "167.81545191" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/fiordland/llawrenny-peaks/north-pk/original-route", "name": "Original Route", "grade": null, "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "Climb easy snow slopes on the western side to the summit." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Martin Bassett, Ray Copp, Austen Deans, Edgar Williams, Nov 1954. The original party traversed to the summit of North Peak from the High Peak." }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/fiordland/llawrenny-peaks/north-pk/east-ridge", "name": "East Ridge", "grade": "16", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": "16", "description": "Climb the often knife edge ridge to the headwall. Initial right tending ledges lead to steep climbing through two overlaps, crux 16. Exit directly on the summit." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Craig Jefferies, Martin Wightman, Jan 2005. The original party flew to the base of the headwall to attempt the route. The ridge-line extends all the way to the Devils Armchair and the Arthur Valley. A very committing and challenging ridge." } ], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/%C5%8Dhau-landsborough/timaru%E2%80%93lindis-mountains/mt-melina": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/%C5%8Dhau-landsborough/timaru%E2%80%93lindis-mountains/mt-melina", "name": "Mt Melina", "altitude": "1925m", "access": null, "description": null, "latlng": [ "-44.44916975", "169.54289416" ], "routes": [], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/mt-victor": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/mt-victor", "name": "Mt Victor", "altitude": "1925m", "access": null, "description": null, "latlng": [ "-44.03240882", "169.18370827" ], "routes": [], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/canterbury/craigieburn-range/hamilton-pk": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/canterbury/craigieburn-range/hamilton-pk", "name": "Hamilton Pk", "altitude": "1922m", "access": null, "description": "Craigiburn Valley Ski Area", "latlng": [ "-43.113077", "171.688757" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/canterbury/craigieburn-range/hamilton-pk/middle-basin-ski-touring", "name": "MIDDLE BASIN, Ski Touring.", "grade": null, "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "Grade 1\t\t\t\t\t650 metres\r\nImmediately to the north of the Craigieburn Valley ski area is Middle Basin \u2013 a well-known \u201cback basin\u201d for Craigieburn skiers, and clearly visible from the new Craigieburn lunch hut. Check at the information board that the basin is open, and ride the rope tows to the top. There are chutes between rock outcrops that descend steeply at first, or else continue along the ridge to a saddle at the head of the basin. The skiing continues down to reach the skifield access road at a prominent bend at 1200m elevation. A 1km walk with 100m height gain takes you back to the lowest rope tow to repeat the whole process, which you\u2019ll be keen to do a few times after a good powder dump. A good fitness work-out, and one of Canterbury\u2019s best lift-accessed back basins.\r\nNorth Middle Basin is separated from the main basin by a rocky ridge. Go beyond the saddle mentioned above, an 800 metre walk or skin NE along the ridge, to access these slopes from near grid ref 047888." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": null }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/canterbury/craigieburn-range/hamilton-pk/craigieburn-valley-broken-river-ski-touring", "name": "CRAIGIEBURN VALLEY TO BROKEN RIVER, Ski Touring.", "grade": null, "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "Grade 1\t\t\t\t\t\t120 metres\r\nA short and straightforward crossing. Check with the ski patrol at Craigieburn Valley about snow conditions. From the top of the ski tows, skin or walk about 20 minutes up to the summit of Hamilton Peak, (1922m), and from there you are looking south-east down to Allan\u2019s Basin, adjacent to the Broken River ski area.\r\nAlternatively Hamilton Col, a col to the SE of Hamilton Peak (1770m) can be accessed quickly and easily by traversing across Hamilton Face from the Craigieburn top tow, and climbing a few metres on foot. This also leads into Allan\u2019s Basin.\r\nIt\u2019s a great ski down into Allan\u2019s Basin, traversing to the skier\u2019s right at around 1580m elevation and crossing the ridge that comes off Nervous Knob to reach Broken River ski area. There are usually skier tracks to follow. In years of good snow cover, rather than traversing to BR directly, it is possible to continue skiing down the centre of Allan\u2019s Basin all the way down to a bend on the skifield access track at about 1300m. Then it\u2019s about 20 minutes walk up the track to the BR lifts. Broken River ski club honour Craigieburn Valley ski tickets (and vice versa) so you can do a few runs here before returning. Always introduce yourself to the very friendly ski patrol, so that they know who\u2019s on the mountain at all times.\r\nTo return to Craigieburn, ride Broken River\u2019s highest rope tow, that leads up the ridge to Nervous Knob. Ski along the ridge to the north-east for a few minutes, and from there it\u2019s a further 15-20 minute climb along the ridge to just below the top of Mt Hamilton, where you look down onto Hamilton Col (mentioned above). Ski down and left onto that col, and down the Hamilton Face back to Craigieburn. Alternatively climb further along the same ridge to the summit of Mt Hamilton." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": null } ], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/canterbury/hall-range/mistake-pk": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/canterbury/hall-range/mistake-pk", "name": "Mistake Pk", "altitude": "1921m", "access": null, "description": null, "latlng": [ "-43.78489695", "170.49738959" ], "routes": [], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/nelson-lakes/spenser-mountains/philosophers-knob": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/nelson-lakes/spenser-mountains/philosophers-knob", "name": "Philosophers Knob", "altitude": "1921m", "access": null, "description": "Spenser Mts", "latlng": [ "-42.32389784", "172.50742685" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/nelson-lakes/spenser-mountains/philosophers-knob/north-face", "name": "North Face", "grade": "1", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": "1", "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "About 4km down the Ada valley from the hut, climb through forest and scree to the tops and sidle the Thurso Stream basin to scree slopes leading to the summit pyramid." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": null } ], "places": [], "image": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/wide/public/image/1-P1017055.JPG?itok=oRBNV6_L", "images": [ { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/wide/public/image/1-P1017055.JPG?itok=oRBNV6_L", "height": "675", "width": "900" } ] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/arthurs-pass/blimit": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/arthurs-pass/blimit", "name": "Blimit", "altitude": "1921m", "access": null, "description": null, "latlng": [ "-42.91190051", "171.5907383" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/arthurs-pass/blimit/temple-basin", "name": "From Temple Basin", "grade": "1", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "1", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "Easy climbs from Temple Basin. Follow the Cassidy ski tow to gain the area south of Bill\u2019s Basin." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": null }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/arthurs-pass/blimit/cons-track", "name": "Via Cons Track", "grade": "1", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "1", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "Reached via Cons Track, which ascends on the Southwest Ridge from the Bealey River crossing on the Punchbowl Falls track. Once the bushline is reached continue ascending the ridge on loose rock. At the base of the bluffs, a rough trail sidles northwards ascending slowly under the bluffs. After 250 metres a steep scree gully is reached. Ascend this to the easier boulder slopes of the main ridge." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": null }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/arthurs-pass/blimit/aicken%E2%80%93blimit-traverse", "name": "Aicken\u2013Blimit Traverse", "grade": "14,3,II,2", "topo_ref": null, "image": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/routes/Crux%20Topo.jpg?itok=wbhnneO_", "images": [ { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/routes/Crux%20Topo.jpg?itok=wbhnneO_", "height": "325", "width": "150" }, { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/routes/Slabby%20Pinnacle.jpg?itok=VMghlTr5", "height": "150", "width": "325" } ], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": "3", "commitment": "II", "mtcook": "2", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": "14", "description": "Ascend Mt Aicken. From the summit, the long tortuous ridge that encloses the Punchbowl Falls Creek catchment is visible. Continue along this ridge. Most obstacles tend to be gendarmes, being generally bypassed on one or other side (mostly Punchbowl Creek side). Most can be climbed directly, but this increases the grade. Towards Blimit the ridge rock rises in 30\u00b0\u201360\u00b0 slabs, some with extreme exposure. Protection is sparse, but the climbing is easy (Grades 12\u201314). This buttress can be avoided by sidling out under its southern flank and ascending a narrow, loose gully to join the South Ridge. Descend to Bill\u2019s Basin." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": null }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/arthurs-pass/blimit/temple-basin-area-ski-touring", "name": "TEMPLE BASIN AREA, Ski Touring.", "grade": null, "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "Map K33\r\nTemple Basin skifield is accessed via a steep foot track from the summit of the Arthur\u2019s Pass highway. The main ski basin is under the face of Mount Temple, with a rope tow running up to Temple Col. A few keen skiers have attempted to ski off the summit of Mount Temple, but this is extreme terrain and you really need to know what you\u2019re doing before going there.\r\nOn the other (eastern) side of Temple Col, a few people also ski into the upper Mingha.\r\nThe Bill\u2019s Basin snow field is under the peak of Blimit. It is accessed by ascending on the true right of the rope tow above the accommodation lodges, and sidling north to Page Shelter. Once in the downhill basin, zig-zag onto the ridge that flanks its southern side, and cross this ridge to enter Bill\u2019s Basin. It is possible to continue along the ridge to the SW to Mt Cassidy (1850m). Beware of cornice on this ridge and the summit of Cassidy." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": null } ], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/black-rocks": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/black-rocks", "name": "Black Rocks", "altitude": "1921m", "access": null, "description": null, "latlng": [ "-44.32494471", "170.5286807" ], "routes": [], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/1920": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/1920", "name": "Pt 1920", "altitude": "1920m", "access": null, "description": null, "latlng": [ "-44.84744649", "167.8511092" ], "routes": [], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aspiring/main-divide/young-pk": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aspiring/main-divide/young-pk", "name": "Young Pk", "altitude": "1920m", "access": null, "description": null, "latlng": [ "-44.11067724", "169.07364669" ], "routes": [], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aspiring/ailsa-mountains/pt-1919": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aspiring/ailsa-mountains/pt-1919", "name": "Pt 1919", "altitude": "1919m", "access": null, "description": "The peak immediately north of Emily Pass, between the Routeburn and Lake Mackenzie.", "latlng": [ "-44.74072683", "168.19826163" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aspiring/ailsa-mountains/pt-1919/east-face", "name": "East Face", "grade": "15,3", "topo_ref": null, "image": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/route/p1250085-sized.jpg?itok=byDghlHI", "images": [ { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/route/p1250085-sized.jpg?itok=byDghlHI", "height": "217", "width": "325" } ], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "3", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": "15", "description": "Pk 1919, opposite Emily Pk (1815) from Emily Pass, near the Routeburn Valley. \r\nMost of it was easy scrambling with a few steeper sections thrown in, which was especially tricky since it was pretty wet at the time they climbed it. All in all, it amounted to an \u2018aesthetic and direct line to the summit,\u2019 for which Ben could find no evidence that anyone had previously climbed." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Adam Carlson and Ben Dare Jan 2014" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aspiring/ailsa-mountains/pt-1919/whiskey-hangover", "name": "Whiskey hangover", "grade": "I,2", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": "250m", "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": "I", "mtcook": "2", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": "250m", "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": null } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": "0", "natural_pro": false, "description": "Direct line South West Face, loose Rock, face above couloir direct to summit\nJohn Begg, Dave McLean", "ascent": "First ascent, unroped, January 1st 1976" } ], "places": [], "image": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/wide/public/image/p1250085-sized.jpg?itok=IqxqSjnQ", "images": [ { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/wide/public/image/p1250085-sized.jpg?itok=IqxqSjnQ", "height": "574", "width": "860" } ] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/1918": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/1918", "name": "Pt 1918", "altitude": "1918m", "access": null, "description": null, "latlng": [ "-44.35081628", "169.27744807" ], "routes": [], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/buncombe": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/buncombe", "name": "Buncombe", "altitude": "1918m", "access": null, "description": null, "latlng": [ "-44.32791718", "168.65126299" ], "routes": [], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/canterbury/big-range/mt-sutton": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/canterbury/big-range/mt-sutton", "name": "Mt Sutton", "altitude": "1916m", "access": null, "description": null, "latlng": [ "-44.472807", "170.433311" ], "routes": [], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/1916": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/1916", "name": "Pt 1916", "altitude": "1916m", "access": null, "description": null, "latlng": [ "-44.91189329", "168.19558995" ], "routes": [], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/ohau-peak": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/ohau-peak", "name": "Ohau Pk", "altitude": "1916m", "access": null, "description": null, "latlng": [ "-44.31793994", "169.7700929" ], "routes": [], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/canterbury/dampier-range/the-candlesticks": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/canterbury/dampier-range/the-candlesticks", "name": "The Candlesticks", "altitude": "1915m", "access": null, "description": "Peaks on the ridge running south-west from Mt Turnbull.", "latlng": [ "-42.866", "172.0276" ], "routes": [], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/darrans/earl-mountains/students-pk": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/darrans/earl-mountains/students-pk", "name": "Students Pk", "altitude": "1913m", "access": null, "description": null, "latlng": [ "-44.808593", "167.983441" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/darrans/earl-mountains/students-pk/original-route", "name": "Original Route", "grade": null, "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "The route starts from a shingle fan opposite Cirque Creek and just to the left of a narrow waterfall cleft and sidles leftwards above a prominent gendarme." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "George Moir, Bob Sinclair, Ken Roberts, Harry Slater 1924." }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/darrans/earl-mountains/students-pk/right-hand-route", "name": "Right Hand Route", "grade": null, "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "The peak can also be climbed via the tussock fan opposite Homer Hut, moving left through the bluffs to the foot of the buttress on the skyline and taking the ridge to the peak." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Bill Gordon, Bill Blee, 1956." } ], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/arthurs-pass/main-divide/mt-temple": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/arthurs-pass/main-divide/mt-temple", "name": "Mt Temple", "altitude": "1913m", "access": null, "description": null, "latlng": [ "-42.90089858", "171.59176826" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/arthurs-pass/main-divide/mt-temple/temple-col", "name": "From Temple Col", "grade": "1", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": "1", "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "From Temple Col but not generally directly. Either climb the orange rock ramp some 200 metres off the col back towards the ski area to join the South Ridge. Alternatively cross the col and traverse the scree/snow slopes under the South Ridge then climb a ramp that rejoins the ridge to the summit." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": null }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/arthurs-pass/main-divide/mt-temple/west-face-gullies", "name": "West Face Gullies", "grade": "1", "topo_ref": "6.14", "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": "1", "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "Several gullies break through the West Face of the mountain to gain the summit. These are generally used as loose scree descents in summer and good icy ascents in winter. Beware of the lower bluffs." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": null }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/arthurs-pass/main-divide/mt-temple/phipps-temple-traverse", "name": "Phipps-Temple Traverse", "grade": "2", "topo_ref": "6.26", "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": "2", "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "Ascend PHIPPS PEAK. The joining ridge with MT TEMPLE is relatively straightforward and well protected to the first notch in the ridge. From here climbers should stay on the ridge back in preference to climbing low around obstacles. The ridge narrows into several slabby pinnacles (beware slab avalanche) that must be protected climbs. On reaching the scree saddle it is an easy ascent onto MT TEMPLE. Descend to Temple Basin ski field." } ], "quality": 1, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": null }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/arthurs-pass/main-divide/mt-temple/main-face", "name": "Main Face", "grade": "2,I", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": "550m", "pitches": [ { "alpine": "2", "commitment": "I", "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": "550m", "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": null } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": "Ascend Downhill basin to Temple Col and climb close to the ridgeline to the\nprominent high point to the west (Little Temple). An alternative route is\nto...", "ascent": "G.E Mannering, A.M. Olliver W.D. Wood and F. H. Polhill, December 1896" } ], "places": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/main-divide-of-the-southern-alps/mt-temple/temple-buttress", "name": "Temple Buttress", "altitude": null, "access": "Via Temple Basin", "description": "The buttress at the head of temple Basin Ski-feild", "latlng": null, "routes": [], "places": [], "image": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/wide/public/image/temple_buttress2_routes_1.JPG?itok=QOtPRs9q", "images": [ { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/wide/public/image/temple_buttress2_routes_1.JPG?itok=QOtPRs9q", "height": "675", "width": "900" }, { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/image/temple-buttress_routes.jpg?itok=TMXzxBtL", "height": "244", "width": "325" } ] } ], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aspiring/serpentine-range/mt-xenicus": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aspiring/serpentine-range/mt-xenicus", "name": "Mt Xenicus", "altitude": "1912m", "access": null, "description": null, "latlng": [ "-44.71368394", "168.18943977" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aspiring/serpentine-range/mt-xenicus/south-west-ridge", "name": "South West Ridge", "grade": "1,I", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": "1", "commitment": "I", "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": null } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": "From the flats in Valley of Trolls, start climbing once past the worst of the boulder covered flank and gain the ridge. Once past the flat shoulder area, avoid any problems on the steeper upper ridge by using the north side as needed.", "ascent": null }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aspiring/serpentine-range/mt-xenicus/north-east-ridge", "name": "North East Ridge", "grade": "1,I", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": "1", "commitment": "I", "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": null } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": "The North East Ridge can be reached from from the Valley of Trolls between Erebus and Xenicus, or from above Routeburn Falls huts by climbing to the southeastern spur and continuing across the next basin north to Pt 1722 metres on the ridge. Buttresses on the ridge can be avoided by sidling on the south side.", "ascent": null } ], "places": [], "image": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/wide/public/image/1-P9240156.JPG?itok=M34T3fmB", "images": [ { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/wide/public/image/1-P9240156.JPG?itok=M34T3fmB", "height": "606", "width": "900" }, { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/image/1-P9230054.JPG?itok=XywSDDOG", "height": "244", "width": "325" } ] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/1912": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/1912", "name": "Pt 1912", "altitude": "1912m", "access": null, "description": null, "latlng": [ "-43.0887175", "171.6696755" ], "routes": [], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/c58dhau-landsborough/hooker-range/mt-peculiar": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/c58dhau-landsborough/hooker-range/mt-peculiar", "name": "Mt Peculiar", "altitude": "1911m", "access": null, "description": "Sits on an offshoot of the Hooker Range, running west from Mt Howit between the Douglas and Karangarua Rivers.", "latlng": [ "-43.68714423", "169.88964038" ], "routes": [], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/canterbury-westland-alps/cabot-ridge/mt-ethel": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/canterbury-westland-alps/cabot-ridge/mt-ethel", "name": "Mt Ethel", "altitude": "1911m", "access": null, "description": null, "latlng": [ "-43.007409", "171.292305" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/canterbury-westland-alps/cabot-ridge/mt-ethel/south-east-ridge", "name": "South East Ridge", "grade": null, "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": "800m", "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": "800m", "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": null } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": "0", "natural_pro": false, "description": "From Griffiths Stream, follow the side creek draining Mt Ethel, aiming for the South East Ridge, and follow this to the top.", "ascent": null } ], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aspiring/drake-range/mt-clio": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aspiring/drake-range/mt-clio", "name": "Mt Clio", "altitude": "1910m", "access": null, "description": "tba", "latlng": [ "-44.14660541", "168.8536263" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aspiring/drake-range/mt-clio/drake-river", "name": "From Drake River", "grade": "2,II", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": "0m", "pitches": [ { "alpine": "2", "commitment": "II", "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "" } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": "0", "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Ash Cunningham, Graham McCallum, December 1950" } ], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/mt-lathrop": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/mt-lathrop", "name": "Mt Lathrop", "altitude": "1910m", "access": null, "description": null, "latlng": [ "-42.91978615", "171.2899073" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/mt-lathrop/browning-pass-lathrop-saddle-traverse", "name": "Browning Pass\u2013Lathrop Saddle Traverse", "grade": "1+,I", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": "0m", "pitches": [ { "alpine": "1+", "commitment": "I", "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": null } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": "0", "natural_pro": false, "description": "The Browning Range can be approached from Browning Pass via Hall Creek, heading up slopes a little west of Mt Beals to the Main Divide. From the Main Divide towards Mt Lathrop, rock strata on the range dip towards the west. A series of little ribs running down off the range has little bluff lines on southern aspects. The climb from the south-east onto Mt Lathrop itself involves a steep scramble on poor rock a few hundred metres north of Pt 1640 metres, but the descent to Lathrop Saddle is not difficult.", "ascent": null } ], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/mt-turnbull-0": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/mt-turnbull-0", "name": "Mt Turnbull", "altitude": "1910m", "access": null, "description": null, "latlng": [ "-45.13068174", "168.32139437" ], "routes": [], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/mt-nerger": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/mt-nerger", "name": "Mt Nerger", "altitude": "1909m", "access": null, "description": null, "latlng": [ "-43.99837212", "169.13596439" ], "routes": [], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/westland/willberg-range/mt-tri": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/westland/willberg-range/mt-tri", "name": "Mt Tri", "altitude": "1908m", "access": null, "description": "Mt Tri is gazetted as at the junction of Speculation Ridge and the Wilberg Range, and according to the party who first ascended and named it, is actually pt 1908m, rather than the current metric map position shown at 1815m.", "latlng": null, "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/westland/willberg-range/mt-tri/east-ridge", "name": "East Ridge", "grade": "1", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "1", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "Straight forward from upper Hot Springs Creek or along the Speculation Range." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Arnold Heine, Jim Cruse, Gordon Howitt, Harold Simpson, 30th December 1951." } ], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aspiring/west-wanaka-mountains/aspinall-pk": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aspiring/west-wanaka-mountains/aspinall-pk", "name": "Aspinall Pk", "altitude": "1908m", "access": null, "description": "Howard Boddy, the pioneer of the East Matukituki, made the first ascent of Aspinall with his brother, Ernie, in February 1930.", "latlng": [ "-44.31759", "168.885344" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aspiring/west-wanaka-mountains/aspinall/south-west-ridge", "name": "South West Ridge", "grade": "I,1", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": "0m", "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": "I", "mtcook": "1", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "" } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": "0", "natural_pro": false, "description": "Continue up the East Matukituki until near the foot of the waterfall, where a ridge leads North East directly to the summit. The scrub can be avoided by climbing up a small creek bed on the south side of the ridge, the crest of which then provides a straightforward route to the peak. Snow faces on the south side of the ridge allow some gaps and towers to be bypassed. The summit rocks are most easily climbed on the north side. The climb takes about seven hours from Ruth Flat to the summit.", "ascent": null } ], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/1907": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/1907", "name": "Pt 1907", "altitude": "1907m", "access": null, "description": null, "latlng": [ "-43.05893731", "171.51807707" ], "routes": [], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/1907-0": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/1907-0", "name": "Pt 1907", "altitude": "1907m", "access": null, "description": null, "latlng": [ "-44.3879513", "168.93712924" ], "routes": [], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/arthurs-pass/mt-stuart": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/arthurs-pass/mt-stuart", "name": "Mt Stuart", "altitude": "1906m", "access": null, "description": null, "latlng": [ "-42.87728497", "171.58537388" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/arthurs-pass/mt-stuart/hills-peak", "name": "Via Hills Peak", "grade": "1", "topo_ref": "1", "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": "1", "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "Follow the joining ridge with Hills Peak (1640m)" } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": null }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/arthurs-pass/mt-stuart/pegleg-creek-route", "name": "Pegleg Creek Route", "grade": "2", "topo_ref": "2", "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": "2", "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "Commence ascent of West Ridge of Phipps Pk, from Temple Basin goods lift shed (highway 73). Once on the tussock covered slopes begin sidling the contour towards the Pegleg Ck catchment, rising where necessary to avoid multiple gullies. Descend the spur below the 1728 point, crossing Pegleg Ck\u2019s Sth branch, and then continue sidling under the Sth Ridge of Mt Stuart to the basins directly below the summit. From here a series of steep snow/ scree covered slopes lead to the col south of the summit." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": null }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/arthurs-pass/mt-stuart/deception-river", "name": "From Deception River", "grade": "1", "topo_ref": "3", "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": "1", "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "Ascend the ridge opposite Goodluck Creek, reaching the knoll north of Phipps Pk (This is a bit of a bash!). Traverse through the saddle and ridge to Mt Stuart." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": null }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/arthurs-pass/mt-stuart/south-ridge", "name": "South Ridge", "grade": "3,II,2", "topo_ref": "4", "image": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/routes/image222b.jpg?itok=mlY-ZVEY", "images": [ { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/routes/image222b.jpg?itok=mlY-ZVEY", "height": "244", "width": "325" } ], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": "3", "commitment": "II", "mtcook": "2", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": null } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": "Commence ascending the west ridge of Phipps Peak from the Temple Basin goods lift, sidling around on the 1500m contour (using prominent fault scarps) onto the escarpment above the south branch of Pegleg Creek. A wide scree gut is met below the 1728m point and descended. Cross Pegleg Creek and ascend slopes towards the prominent rocky bluffs at the foot of the southern ridge. Make your way up through the rocky bluffs to gain the ridge. Follow the ridge to the summit.\nThe majority of the ridge consists of nice grippy orange rock which is enjoyable to climb but as you get closer to the summit the rock becomes very rotten in true Arthur's Pass tradition.", "ascent": null }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/arthurs-pass/mt-stuart/southeast-face", "name": "Southeast Face", "grade": "3,II,2", "topo_ref": "5", "image": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/routes/image57b.jpg?itok=R0dzRnOJ", "images": [ { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/routes/image57b.jpg?itok=R0dzRnOJ", "height": "244", "width": "325" } ], "length": "190m", "pitches": [ { "alpine": "3", "commitment": "II", "mtcook": "2", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": "190m", "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": null } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": "The southeast face is reached by traversing over Phipps Peak, and the 1820m point, or by sidling into the col between Mt Stuart and the 1820m point from Pegleg Creek. Ascend the scree slope from the col towards a left-trending ramp of rock and scree at the bottom of the rock face. Ascend this ramp upwards then traverse off right to join the hanging scree slope. Climb to the head of the scree under a vertical gully. Ascend the obvious, diagonal, left-trending ramp until you reach a rock ledge. From here there are multiple routes up to the South Ridge of Mt Stuart that involve climbing straight up steep, but solid rock, or working your way up through various ledges and chimneys, skirting around patches of scree and/or rotten rock as you go. Once the ridge is gained continue on to the summit.", "ascent": "Dave Hegan, Hanno Snyman, Robert Phillips & Jun [JPN], 6 February 2018" } ], "places": [], "image": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/wide/public/image/mt%2520stuart-south%2520view-routemark.jpg?itok=mPadh1K0", "images": [ { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/wide/public/image/mt%2520stuart-south%2520view-routemark.jpg?itok=mPadh1K0", "height": "675", "width": "900" }, { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/image/image222b.jpg?itok=ibcUP1QK", "height": "244", "width": "325" }, { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/image/image57b.jpg?itok=Ibjuyfwx", "height": "244", "width": "325" } ] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/1905": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/1905", "name": "Pt 1905", "altitude": "1905m", "access": null, "description": "Eyre Mountains", "latlng": [ "-45.32151905", "168.40563346" ], "routes": [], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/seton-peak": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/seton-peak", "name": "Seton Pk", "altitude": "1905m", "access": null, "description": null, "latlng": [ "-44.60960494", "168.76162895" ], "routes": [], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/darrans/darran-mountains/tutoko-knob": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/darrans/darran-mountains/tutoko-knob", "name": "Tutoko Knob", "altitude": "1905m", "access": null, "description": "Tutoko Knob is the buttress at the western end of Alice Peak\u2019s south west ridge. The 300m high South Face of Tutoko Knob is a long curtain of immaculate stone, rising straight from the Donne Glacier.", "latlng": [ "-44.588026", "168.027391" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/fiordland/darran-mountains/tutoko-knob/yeah-nah-eh", "name": "Yeah, Nah, Eh?", "grade": "20", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": true, "ewbank": "20", "description": "6 pitches. Climb the right-hand of two prominent buttresses on the face.\r\n Starting from the big ledge at the bottom of the buttress. Climb up the front of the pillar, moving in from the right." }, { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": true, "ewbank": "16", "description": "To the top of the pillar and across on to the main wall." }, { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": true, "ewbank": "17", "description": "Continue up, veering slightly right through overlaps to belay below the steep headwall." }, { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": true, "ewbank": "18", "description": "Directly up the headwall. Steep climbing on superb jugs." }, { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": true, "ewbank": "15", "description": "The angle eases off, with short steep sections." }, { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": true, "ewbank": "15", "description": null } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": true, "description": null, "ascent": "Richard Thomson, Richard Turner, Dave Vass, Feb 2002." } ], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/symmetry-peaks-w": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/symmetry-peaks-w", "name": "Symmetry Pks", "altitude": "1904m", "access": null, "description": null, "latlng": [ "-45.28630656", "168.5667366" ], "routes": [], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/southland/eyre-mountains/symmetry-pks": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/southland/eyre-mountains/symmetry-pks", "name": "Symmetry Pks", "altitude": "1904m", "access": null, "description": null, "latlng": [ "-45.2838", "168.5759" ], "routes": [], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/darrans/wick-mountains/cirque-pk": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/darrans/wick-mountains/cirque-pk", "name": "Cirque Pk", "altitude": "1902m", "access": null, "description": null, "latlng": [ "-44.784247", "167.964837" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/fiordland/wick-mountains/cirque-pk/north-ridge", "name": "North Ridge", "grade": null, "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Gerry Hall-Jones, Duncan Wilson, Lloyd Warburton, 1955." } ], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/arthurs-pass/main-divide/falling-mountain": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/arthurs-pass/main-divide/falling-mountain", "name": "Falling Mountain", "altitude": "1901m", "access": null, "description": "So named after the magnitude 7.1 Arthur\u2019s Pass earthquake on 9 March 1929, which caused the total collapse of the mountain\u2019s 900-metre high northwest side.", "latlng": [ "-42.89951534", "171.68742657" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/arthurs-pass/main-divide/falling-mountain/south-west-ridge", "name": "South West Ridge", "grade": "1", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": "1", "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": null } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": "Start from the head of the Edwards Valley near Taruahuna Pass. Other routes\nmay be taken from near Taruahuna Pass and Tarn Col on the Otehake side of the\nmountain. Beware of major rockfall problems across the entire northwest face.", "ascent": "C E Fenwick, H F Baird, H McD Vincent, 10 December 1930" } ], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aspiring/olivine-range/remote-pks": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aspiring/olivine-range/remote-pks", "name": "Remote Pks", "altitude": "1901m", "access": null, "description": null, "latlng": [ "-44.3198468", "168.4434644" ], "routes": [], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/mt-longfellow": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/mt-longfellow", "name": "Mt Longfellow", "altitude": "1900m", "access": null, "description": null, "latlng": [ "-42.69186362", "172.29089513" ], "routes": [], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aspiring/snowdrift-range/key-dome": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aspiring/snowdrift-range/key-dome", "name": "Key Dome", "altitude": "1900m", "access": null, "description": "tba", "latlng": [ "-44.48509146", "168.5072697" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aspiring/snowdrift-range/key-dome/whitbourn-flats", "name": "From Whitbourn flats", "grade": null, "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "When entering the Whitbourn flats from the gorge, locate the first stream on the west side about 50 metres up the flats. It\u2019s rocky gulley leads up until near the top of the ridge, just under bluffs, a good deer trail leads south through the bluffs to reach the ridge. There are good campsites below the Dome." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": null } ], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/fiordland/darran-mountains/mt-lyttle": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/fiordland/darran-mountains/mt-lyttle", "name": "Mt Lyttle", "altitude": "1899m", "access": null, "description": "tba", "latlng": [ "-44.77567894", "168.0931785" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/fiordland/darran-mountains/mt-lyttle/eastern-slopes", "name": "Eastern Slopes", "grade": null, "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "Cross the subterranean outlet from Lake Marian and climb the steep bluffs on the eastern side of the valley." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Bob Smith, Dick Ferris, Ivan O'Brien, 1934." }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/fiordland/darran-mountains/mt-lyttle/gunn-basin-route", "name": "Gunn Basin Route", "grade": null, "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "Cross the Hollyford river below Gunn's camp and follow a track, now completely overgrown, through the bush to the tussock basins below Lyttle." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Bruce Banwell, Dick Wood, Ron Webster, 1958." } ], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/c58dhau-landsborough/paringa-moeraki-mountains/mt-millington": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/c58dhau-landsborough/paringa-moeraki-mountains/mt-millington", "name": "Mt Millington", "altitude": "1898m", "access": null, "description": null, "latlng": [ "-43.794541", "169.604536" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/c58dhau-landsborough/paringa-moeraki-mountains/mt-millington/jack-creek", "name": "From Jack Creek", "grade": "2,III", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": "0m", "pitches": [ { "alpine": "2", "commitment": "III", "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": null } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": "0", "natural_pro": false, "description": "Fom 1300m in Jack Creek, climb through bluffs and gain height until high under Pt 1892m. Cut out right on sloping ledges to cross the ridge running north-east of Pt 1892m. Pick a way down the far side (an abseil may be needed). Once on easy ground, the summit is a scramble.", "ascent": "Nina Dickerhof, James Thornton, March 2021" } ], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/main-divide-of-the-southern-alps/mt-augusta": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/main-divide-of-the-southern-alps/mt-augusta", "name": "Mt Augusta", "altitude": "1895m", "access": null, "description": "Twin Peaks 1895m and 1886m\nOn the 1962 NZAC map, these peaks were referred to individually as Mt Augusta and Mt Emily", "latlng": [ "-42.94191", "171.326637" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/main-divide-of-the-southern-alps/mt-augusta/lake-browning", "name": "From Lake Browning", "grade": null, "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "A scramble from the basins of upper O\u2019Connors Creek." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "L Parry, A Richards, March 1936" } ], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/1892": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/1892", "name": "Pt 1892", "altitude": "1892m", "access": null, "description": null, "latlng": [ "-44.92272149", "168.13125407" ], "routes": [], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/1892-0": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/1892-0", "name": "Pt 1892", "altitude": "1892m", "access": null, "description": null, "latlng": [ "-45.39712647", "168.96369179" ], "routes": [], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/mt-lyall": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/mt-lyall", "name": "Mt Lyall", "altitude": "1892m", "access": null, "description": null, "latlng": [ "-45.27489508", "167.53719499" ], "routes": [], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/elder": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/elder", "name": "Elder", "altitude": "1891m", "access": null, "description": null, "latlng": [ "-42.21246606", "173.01091769" ], "routes": [], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/arthurs-pass/polar-range/mt-bowers": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/arthurs-pass/polar-range/mt-bowers", "name": "Mt Bowers", "altitude": "1891m", "access": null, "description": "First ascended by E Wilson and A Anderson, December 1930.", "latlng": [ "-42.94423479", "171.66596889" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/arthurs-pass/polar-range/mt-bowers/upper-edwards-valley", "name": "From Upper Edwards Valley", "grade": "1", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": "1", "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": null } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": "A scramble from the upper valley floor.", "ascent": "E Wilson and A Anderson, December 1930" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/arthurs-pass/polar-range/mt-bowers/east-edwards-valley", "name": "From East Edwards Valley", "grade": "1", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": "1", "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": null } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": "Via a scree slide from the East Edwards Valley.", "ascent": null } ], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/otago/harris-mountains/glenfinnan-pk": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/otago/harris-mountains/glenfinnan-pk", "name": "Glenfinnan Pk", "altitude": "1890m", "access": null, "description": "tba", "latlng": [ "-44.513525", "168.802962" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/otago/harris-mountains/glenfinnan-pk/niger-stream", "name": "Via Niger Stream", "grade": null, "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "Glenfinnan Peak is a fine viewpoint overlooking the confluence of the two branches of the Matukituki. It is easily reached in four to five hours from the road by climbing the tussock slopes on the north-west side of Niger Stream." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": null } ], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/1890": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/1890", "name": "Pt 1890", "altitude": "1890m", "access": null, "description": null, "latlng": [ "-42.2908833", "172.38521811" ], "routes": [], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/main-divide-of-the-southern-alps/mt-achilles": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/main-divide-of-the-southern-alps/mt-achilles", "name": "Mt Achilles", "altitude": "1890m", "access": null, "description": null, "latlng": [ "-44.174483", "168.965332" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/main-divide-of-the-southern-alps/mt-achilles/main-divide", "name": "Main Divide", "grade": null, "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "Straightforward from Newland Pass, or along the Main Divide from The \r\nSentinel." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": null } ], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/nelson-lakes/st-arnaud-range/the-camel": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/nelson-lakes/st-arnaud-range/the-camel", "name": "The Camel", "altitude": "1889m", "access": null, "description": "St Arnaud Ra", "latlng": [ "-41.9556", "172.8184" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/nelson-lakes/st-arnaud-range/the-camel/hamilton-route", "name": "Hamilton Route", "grade": "1", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": "1", "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "Approximately 1km past the Hamilton River track end a creek from The Camel tarns emerges. Proceed another 250m, cross the river and enter the bush just west of another smaller creek. Continue on the true left of the creek, cross the main creek at 1280m, and aim north-west to point 1790m. Follow the St Arnaud Range to the summit." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": null }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/nelson-lakes/st-arnaud-range/the-camel/st-arnaud-range-route", "name": "St Arnaud Range Route", "grade": "1", "topo_ref": "A", "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": "1", "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "A short distance up the Arnst River climb a spur to the range, taking care to avoid bluffs in the bush. A rock scramble leads to the summit. Descend north-west from Pk 1785m down a spur on the true left of a creek." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": null } ], "places": [], "image": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/wide/public/image/Screen%20shot%202011-06-29%20at%205.57.04%20PM%20%282%29.jpg?itok=1-sPCDyi", "images": [ { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/wide/public/image/Screen%20shot%202011-06-29%20at%205.57.04%20PM%20%282%29.jpg?itok=1-sPCDyi", "height": "423", "width": "439" } ] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/1899": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/1899", "name": "Pt 1889", "altitude": "1889m", "access": null, "description": null, "latlng": [ "-45.28451854", "168.49665818" ], "routes": [], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/mt-kirkliston": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/mt-kirkliston", "name": "Mt Kirkliston", "altitude": "1887m", "access": null, "description": "Kirkliston Range", "latlng": [ "-44.54616557", "170.51571268" ], "routes": [], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/fiordland/earl-mountains/aragorn-pk": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/fiordland/earl-mountains/aragorn-pk", "name": "Aragorn Pk", "altitude": "1886m", "access": null, "description": "tba", "latlng": [ "-44.875233", "168.00653" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/fiordland/earl-mountains/aragorn-pk/original-route", "name": "Original Route", "grade": null, "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Erskine Bowmar, Chally Bowmar, Jim Dickie, Dec 1932." } ], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/main-divide-of-the-southern-alps/mt-emily": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/main-divide-of-the-southern-alps/mt-emily", "name": "Mt Emily", "altitude": "1886m", "access": null, "description": "Twin Peaks 1895m and 1886m\nOn the 1962 NZAC map, these peaks were referred to individually as Mt Augusta and Mt Emily", "latlng": [ "-42.943481", "171.325436" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/main-divide-of-the-southern-alps/mt-emily/lake-browning", "name": "From Lake Browning", "grade": null, "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "A scramble from the basins of upper O\u2019Connors Creek." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "F Pierson, March 1936" } ], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/1885": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/1885", "name": "Pt 1885", "altitude": "1885m", "access": null, "description": null, "latlng": [ "-44.79692031", "167.71119325" ], "routes": [], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/canterbury/cloudy-peak-range/mt-nolan": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/canterbury/cloudy-peak-range/mt-nolan", "name": "Mt Nolan", "altitude": "1884m", "access": null, "description": "na", "latlng": [ "-43.468556", "170.804529" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/canterbury/cloudy-peak-range/mt-nolan/clyde-river", "name": "From Clyde River", "grade": "1", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "1", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "A straightforward climb." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": null } ], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/nelson-lakes/spenser-mountains/mt-moki": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/nelson-lakes/spenser-mountains/mt-moki", "name": "Mt Moki", "altitude": "1883m", "access": null, "description": "South of Duessa Pk.", "latlng": [ "-42.23811344", "172.59384155" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/nelson-lakes/spenser-mountains/mt-moki/north-face", "name": "North Face", "grade": "1", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": "1", "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "From the shelf in SE ridge of Enid Pk, sidle easy slopes onto the peak. Alternatively, climb up the stream from Glacier Gully, bypassing small waterfalls on the true right." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": null } ], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/node/4914/junction-pk": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/node/4914/junction-pk", "name": "Junction Pk", "altitude": "1882m", "access": null, "description": null, "latlng": [ "-43.245", "171.818" ], "routes": [], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/fiordland/sheerdown-hills/mt-ada": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/fiordland/sheerdown-hills/mt-ada", "name": "Mt Ada", "altitude": "1881m", "access": null, "description": "South of Milford Road", "latlng": [ "-44.727874", "167.885002" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/fiordland/sheerdown-hills/mt-ada/east-face", "name": "East Face", "grade": null, "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "From the West Cleddau, climb to the snowfield and up the East Face to the South East Ridge." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Bill Blee, Gerry Hall-Jones, Feb 1957." } ], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/darrans/darran-mountains/barrier-knob": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/darrans/darran-mountains/barrier-knob", "name": "Barrier Knob", "altitude": "1879m", "access": null, "description": "The northern aspects of Barrier Knob have some of the best slab and face climbing in the country.", "latlng": [ "-44.73960058", "168.02382946" ], "routes": [], "places": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/darrans/darran-mountains/barrier-knob/north-east-face", "name": "North East Face", "altitude": null, "access": "The north-east face of Barrier Knob can be accessed in two different ways:\nIf you are coming directly to the face from Homer Hut or Barrier Knob it is best gained via the Barrier Knob-Barrier Peak Col. From Barrier Knob, descend to the col, and then down-climb moderate slabs to the n\u00e9v\u00e9 at the base of the face. To get to the Quiet Earth area of the wall; either don crampons and scoot along the n\u00e9v\u00e9, or skirt the bottom of the neve via rolling water-worn slabs.\nTo access the face from the Labyrinth area of the north face; traverse east over rolling, slabby terrain and scramble over a low angle ridge/ar\u00eate that divides the two faces. Gain height once on the east side of the ridge to access the Quiet Earth section of the north-east face.\nQuiet Earth follows a distinctive quartz streak in the centre of the wall.", "description": "The North East Face of Barrier Knob predominantly features high quality slab climbing on very good, water-worn rock.", "latlng": null, "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/darrans/darran-mountains/barrier-knob/north-east-face/forgotten-silver", "name": "Forgotten Silver", "grade": "20", "topo_ref": "1", "image": null, "images": [], "length": "125m", "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": "60m", "bolts": "9", "trad": false, "ewbank": "16", "description": "From single belay ring trend left up easy slabs past 2 bolts. Gradually diagonal back right and up ever steppening scallopped wall past lots of bolts to belay.An awsome pitch on perfect rock." }, { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": "15m", "bolts": "3", "trad": true, "ewbank": "18", "description": "Traverse left along ledge past bolt, then up short wall past 2 bolts to belay." }, { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": "50m", "bolts": "9", "trad": false, "ewbank": "20", "description": "Climb narrow flakey wall past 3 bolts. Veer left below overhang and up flake crack to bolt, step onto face, climb up smears and knobs past bolt. Move back left to slab and follow this on left hand side past 3 bolts. At top of arete traverse right to belay." } ], "quality": 2, "bolts": "9", "natural_pro": true, "description": null, "ascent": "Mark Watson, Kristen Foley, 2007" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/darrans/darran-mountains/barrier-knob/north-east-face/utu", "name": "Utu", "grade": "25", "topo_ref": "2", "image": null, "images": [], "length": "110m", "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": "30m", "bolts": "5", "trad": true, "ewbank": "25", "description": "Start at single belay ring. Up right facing flake. Step left to bolt and climb up to thin crimping and tricky footwork. Move right to wire placements, back left and up past bolt. Trend right on easy ground to belay." }, { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": "30m", "bolts": "5", "trad": true, "ewbank": "22", "description": "Move left from belay, and diagonally up to cam placements ( can be damp). Then up past 2 bolts to corner. Layback and step up corner (crux) past 2 more bolts, exiting to the left after the 5th bolt. Up the blunt arete to belay" }, { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": "50m", "bolts": "9", "trad": true, "ewbank": "24", "description": "Climb up face and flake past 3 bolts. Step right at 3rd bolt and move up and back left to 4th bolt. Delicate and crimpy moves (crux) lead to the 5th bolt (Loose flake). Climb easier ground to ramp (bolt) and up to overhung rock. Step up onto block and climb slab past 2 bolts and RP placement to belay." } ], "quality": 1, "bolts": "9", "natural_pro": true, "description": null, "ascent": "Mark Watson, Kristen Foley, 2007" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/darrans/darran-mountains/barrier-knob/north-east-face/poi-e", "name": "Poi E", "grade": "19", "topo_ref": "Poi E", "image": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/routes/PoiE.JPG?itok=sUZbrW8F", "images": [ { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/routes/PoiE.JPG?itok=sUZbrW8F", "height": "198", "width": "325" }, { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/routes/BarrierNE-PoiE.jpg?itok=9ysu-JRA", "height": "230", "width": "325" }, { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/routes/DSC01694.JPG?itok=PYhxYOKb", "height": "217", "width": "325" } ], "length": "195m", "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": "40m", "bolts": null, "trad": true, "ewbank": "14", "description": "To access start of route scramble up cracks to ledge on LHS of Quiet Earth slabs. Start from single ring on far left side of ledges." }, { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": "58m", "bolts": "7", "trad": true, "ewbank": "19", "description": "Traverse left, then up slabs to wall with pockets, flakes and 2 bolts. Above this angle rightwards up shallow corner. Climb next pocketed wall to 5 star jug and cut loose just for fun. Then corner and slab to 2BA." }, { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": "42m", "bolts": "4", "trad": true, "ewbank": "18", "description": "Left around overhang, up cracks and walls towards steep, featured, pocketed wall above. Climb pockets up to narrow ledge, mantel and Honnold rightwards. Up and right across slab to featured flakes, climb to bolt and up to 2BA on grassy ledge." }, { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": "55m", "bolts": "1", "trad": true, "ewbank": "17", "description": "Up to overhang; climb on cool jugs (1 bolt) then stick to crest of ridge for a featured and atmospheric finish." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": "7", "natural_pro": true, "description": "A mixed protection route on the crest of a pinnacle on left side of Quiet Earth Slabs. Interesting, varied climbing with flakes, pockets, corners and slabs. Access by rappel (2x60m ropes required) or from below.\nTo abseil, look for 2 rings on crest of pinnacle. Abseil 55m down crest, then climbers right to grassy ledge. Rap 2 - down 35m then look climbers left under small roof. Rap 3 - 57m down then climbers right to LH edge of ledge.\nFrom ground, scramble, or ~gd 14 climb up broken slabs to left hand edge of large ledge system to LHS of Quiet Earth slabs. Starts at single ring.\n1 set wires, 1 set cams up to #2 camalot and 13 quickdraws, including many long extenders.", "ascent": "Developed S Fortune and Ben Dare Jan 2018 and S Fortune Jan 2022. FFA: S Fortune, Olivia Truax and Sam Waetford, Jan 2022" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/darrans/darran-mountains/barrier-knob/north-east-face/planet-my-dreams", "name": "Planet of My Dreams", "grade": "18", "topo_ref": "3", "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": "18", "description": "Six pitches. On the slabby face just down from the col with Barrier, this route is easily reached from the Barrier Knob - Barrier Col." } ], "quality": 1, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Calum Hudson, Rob Turner, 1987." }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/darrans/darran-mountains/barrier-knob/north-east-face/navigator", "name": "The Navigator", "grade": "18", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": "220m", "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": "50m", "bolts": null, "trad": true, "ewbank": "18", "description": "A direct line on the centre of the north-east face of Barrier Knob. Starts approximately 20m left of Quiet Earth on the left side and lowest point of the slabby \u2018bulge\u2019 in the face. \r\n. From the n\u00e9v\u00e9 climb up to shallow horizontal overlap. Turn this at left end and climb right-trending grooves and slabs for a few metres before heading straight up to belay." }, { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": "40m", "bolts": null, "trad": true, "ewbank": "16", "description": "Climb up slabs and into prominent left-facing corner. Up this to a large belay bollard and ledge." }, { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": "60m", "bolts": null, "trad": true, "ewbank": "17", "description": "Climb beautiful textured rock up shallow corner on plllar, to below mossy corner. Step left and up through steepening to easy ground. Belay in crack." }, { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": "50m", "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": "16", "description": "Climb right side of wall up featured, flaky rock (loose in places) to a belay." }, { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": "20m", "bolts": null, "trad": true, "ewbank": "14", "description": "Head left and then up final part of headwall, aiming for two prominent blocks on the ridge. Belay amongst blocks on ridgeline." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": true, "description": null, "ascent": "Tom Riley, Mark Watson, Allan Uren, March 2006." }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/darrans/darran-mountains/barrier-knob/north-east-face/ruby-and-rata", "name": "Ruby and Rata", "grade": "15", "topo_ref": "4", "image": null, "images": [], "length": "105m", "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": "50m", "bolts": null, "trad": true, "ewbank": "15", "description": "Climbed as an access route for the bolting of Quiet Earth and Sleeping Dogs.\r\n Approximately 20m left of the prominent white quartz streak of Quiet Earth. Climb discontinuous, slabby corners and ledges up and slightly left. Good protection. Belay on ledge." }, { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": "55m", "bolts": null, "trad": true, "ewbank": "13", "description": "Climb up and diagonally right across pocky slabs to broken ground above the second pitch overlaps of Quiet Earth. Pro scarce. Belay as for pitch two of Quiet Earth." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": true, "description": null, "ascent": "Mark Watson, Tom Riley, March 2006." }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/darrans/darran-mountains/barrier-knob/north-east-face/quiet-earth", "name": "The Quiet Earth", "grade": "21", "topo_ref": "5", "image": null, "images": [], "length": "100m", "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": "50m", "bolts": "9", "trad": true, "ewbank": "21", "description": "A classic two pitch route with diverse climbing on excellent rock. Carry wires and 1 set of cams to #4.\r\n An excellent rope-stretching pitch following a prominent quartz streak. Start on the right side of the streak and follow the bolts, crossing to the left side of the streak below the steepening. Climb the vertical section (underclings) on its left and then up the slab, following bolts and streak to a belay just above an overlap." }, { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": "50m", "bolts": "5", "trad": true, "ewbank": "21", "description": "Move left from the belay and up past two bolts (some natural pro) towards a narrow left-facing overlap/corner. Place cams and bridge up (crux) past a couple more bolts and tricky ground on slab. Continue up following bolts and occasional natural gear to belay." } ], "quality": 2, "bolts": "9", "natural_pro": true, "description": null, "ascent": "Mark Watson, Tom Riley, March 2006." }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/darrans/darran-mountains/barrier-knob/north-east-face/sleeping-dogs", "name": "Sleeping Dogs", "grade": "22", "topo_ref": "6", "image": null, "images": [], "length": "50m", "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": "50m", "bolts": "7", "trad": true, "ewbank": "22", "description": "A full 50m pitch of tricky and interesting slab climbing. 7 bolts. Take wires and small cams (1/2-3/4 essential).\r\nStart 5m right of Quiet Earth at belay bolt. Climb up and right, past right end of small overlap and follow technical, slabby ground (crux) up past bolts to prominent diagonal overlap (cam placement). Move left over lower part of overlap and continue up easing ground and past ledge before final section of steep slab to belay." } ], "quality": 2, "bolts": "7", "natural_pro": true, "description": null, "ascent": "Tom Riley, Mark Watson, March 2006." }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/darrans/darran-mountains/barrier-knob/north-east-face/bridge-nowhere", "name": "Bridge to Nowhere", "grade": "15", "topo_ref": "7", "image": null, "images": [], "length": "50m", "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": "50m", "bolts": null, "trad": true, "ewbank": "15", "description": "Gain by scrambling right up slabby ramp to a belay point where corner steepens. Bridge up vague corner system past unusual bulgy rock. Terrain eases below the left end of prominent mossy overlap/roof-line (cam placements), traverse right to bolt belay of Goodbye Pork Pie." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": true, "description": null, "ascent": "Mark Watson, Tom Riley, March 2006." }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/darrans/darran-mountains/barrier-knob/north-east-face/goodbye-pork-pie", "name": "Goodbye Pork Pie", "grade": "23", "topo_ref": "8", "image": null, "images": [], "length": "50m", "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": "50m", "bolts": "10", "trad": true, "ewbank": "23", "description": "50m. 10 bolts. Carry small to medium cams and wires. A stunning pitch of technical slab climbing on featured rock. Start off ledge and climb straight up for a few metres following bolts. Trend diagonally up and right utilising dimples and tiny holds (crux), to right hand end of overlap. Continue straight up, and with devious moves gain scoop. Keep following prow past bolts and occasional natural pro placements to belay." } ], "quality": 3, "bolts": "10", "natural_pro": true, "description": null, "ascent": "Mark Watson, Tom Riley, March 2006." }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/darrans/darran-mountains/barrier-knob/north-east-face/original-line", "name": "Original Line", "grade": null, "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": true, "ewbank": null, "description": "The route takes a line immediately right of a pronounced grassy rib. Climb through initial bluffs onto the rib then right toward the summit of Barrier Knob." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": true, "description": null, "ascent": "Pete Glasson, Ken Calder, Al Smith, Mar 1972." }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/darrans/darran-mountains/barrier-knob/north-east-face/daisy", "name": "Daisy", "grade": "20", "topo_ref": null, "image": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/routes/TOPO%20DAISY.png?itok=QNUi-Ze0", "images": [ { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/routes/TOPO%20DAISY.png?itok=QNUi-Ze0", "height": "217", "width": "325" }, { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/routes/approach.jpg?itok=FyuretUr", "height": "244", "width": "325" }, { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/routes/The%20approach%20pitch.jpg?itok=8ogGSWOw", "height": "217", "width": "325" }, { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/routes/2nd%20pitch.jpg?itok=lEklwR1s", "height": "217", "width": "325" }, { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/routes/The%20end%20of%20the%201st%20pitch.jpg?itok=pU6Ludwh", "height": "217", "width": "325" }, { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/routes/The%20last%20pitch.jpg?itok=kwBpwr-C", "height": "217", "width": "325" }, { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/routes/2nd%20pitch..jpg?itok=yk_r6bRg", "height": "242", "width": "325" }, { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/routes/IMG-2738%20-%20Copy.jpg?itok=6oFT87i6", "height": "244", "width": "325" } ], "length": "135m", "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": "15m", "bolts": "1", "trad": true, "ewbank": "12", "description": "This is an approach pitch from the snowfield. Few small cams or nuts would help." }, { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": "40m", "bolts": "7", "trad": false, "ewbank": "19", "description": "First pitch when you rappel from the top. (Best approach). 40m long pitch on great quality rock." }, { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": "30m", "bolts": "5", "trad": false, "ewbank": "18", "description": "Perfect rock with 1 or 2 harder moves!" }, { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": "25m", "bolts": "4", "trad": false, "ewbank": "15", "description": "Nice and easy climbing on good rock." }, { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": "25m", "bolts": "5", "trad": false, "ewbank": "20", "description": "Starts from a big belay ledge and again, excellent rock. Crux pitch." } ], "quality": 3, "bolts": "7", "natural_pro": true, "description": "Daisy (20) is a multi-pitch climb on the north-east face of Barrier Knob. When looking from the base,\nthe route is on the right-hand side and about 50m away from the \u201cForgotten Silver\u201d. Nice moves in\nevery pitch on great quality rock.\n1 st Pitch: (19), 40m, 7 bolts\n2 nd Pitch: (18), 30m, 5 bolts\n3 rd Pitch: (15), 25m, 4 bolts\n4 th Pitch: (20), 25m, 5 bolts.\nACCESS:\n\n\nFrom Gertrude Saddle, walk up a reasonably formed path (unmarked) towards the snow\nfields for about 20 minutes. Afterwards, start traversing right either on snow slopes or rock\nand scree in late season. Crampons may be required throughout the whole summer if\napproaching the route before noon. Allow about 20-30 minutes on the traverse, then head\nup the rock slabs towards the summit ridge of Barrier Knob and look for a big cairn which\nmarks the start/end of the route. Once you look over the ridge, you\u2019ll spot a spacious ledge\nand an anchor with orange rep cord and an old hex marked \u201cDaisy\u201d. Rappel to the base of\nthe route, each of the 4 pitches separately.\n\n\nFrom Barrier Knob, descend to the Barrier Peak col, and scramble down the slabs to the\nn\u00e9v\u00e9 at the base of the face. Head left, and keep an eye out for a single bolt with orange rep\ncord which marks the start of the route. Scramble up a steeper 15m high slab (gr.12) to the\nfirst anchor.\n\n\nANCHORS:\nBolted \u2013 2 bolts; 2 maillons. Anchors changed 23/3/2024. 2 maillons + 1 ring.\nGEAR:\n10 quickdraws, optional - few small cams & nuts for the access pitch (gr.12).", "ascent": "FFA Vladimir Suraba, Veronika Vlcekova, February 2021" } ], "places": [], "image": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/wide/public/2024-03/Barrier_NEF_left.jpg?itok=wZlqKYCe", "images": [ { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/wide/public/2024-03/Barrier_NEF_left.jpg?itok=wZlqKYCe", "height": "771", "width": "1090" }, { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/wide/public/2024-03/Barrier_NEF_right.jpg?itok=zxU4Cstc", "height": "771", "width": "1090" }, { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/2024-03/tom_QE.jpg?itok=ji02-qEt", "height": "325", "width": "244" }, { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/2024-03/tom_sleeping_dogs.jpg?itok=fQvAKK0u", "height": "244", "width": "325" } ] }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/darrans/darran-mountains/barrier-knob/north-face", "name": "North Face", "altitude": null, "access": "Traverse high on scree from the end of the Barrier Knob Traverse until a long rock rib under the face forces you to descend; at the bottom of this rib a flat site, suitable for a two person tent can be found. It may be under snow early in the season. Water is available from the snow patches or snow-melt trickles on the slabs.\nThere are two approaches that can be used to access to these climbs.\n\nTraverse round to the base of the north face; from Gertrude Saddle climb to the start of the traverse around the southern aspect of Barrier Knob: Traverse on snow-slopes or rock and scree late season to the base of the north face. Allow approximately three hours and note that the snow slopes are very icy early morning and may require crampons.\nAbseil down from the summit ridge of Barrier Knob. From Gertrude Saddle climb to the summit of Barrier Knob. Follow the ridge east for 200m keeping an eye out for a cairn which marks the start of a rappel line to the base of the routes, with the first rap station (slings) 30m down on the northern side.", "description": "The combined quality and length of these climbs make them unsurpassed as the best slab routes in the country. The rock is well featured and compact. Many have now been equipped with 10mm stainless bolts but a full natural pro rack with large size cams is still required, up to 10cm on Labyrinth.\nIt is common for routes on the north face of Barrier Knob to be completed in a long day out of Homer Hut, or alternatively from a camp or bivouac on the slopes below the face. Flat bivouac sites exist on the tussock slopes above Adelaide Saddle. There is a very good bivouac site underneath the central part of the north face.", "latlng": null, "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/darrans/darran-mountains/barrier-knob/north-face/endless-summer", "name": "Endless Summer", "grade": "21", "topo_ref": "1", "image": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/route/IMG_1452.jpg?itok=scKR4lvU", "images": [ { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/route/IMG_1452.jpg?itok=scKR4lvU", "height": "325", "width": "244" } ], "length": "265m", "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": "55m", "bolts": null, "trad": true, "ewbank": "20", "description": "Scramble up the slabs to the ring bolts at the start of Labyrinth. \r\n Follow the left-slanting ramp and up a short wall to hanging belay." }, { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": "45m", "bolts": null, "trad": true, "ewbank": "21", "description": "Step left and up on small holds past a spike and flake to a stretchy move right, then up to belay." }, { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": "45m", "bolts": null, "trad": true, "ewbank": "19", "description": "Up wall to hand crack, stepping left and up to a thin crack" }, { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": "40m", "bolts": null, "trad": true, "ewbank": "17", "description": "Climb the short wall then left to the base of the shallow groove: some thin moves towards the top." }, { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": "35m", "bolts": null, "trad": true, "ewbank": "16", "description": "An easy flake pitch." }, { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": "45m", "bolts": null, "trad": true, "ewbank": "21", "description": "Climb the finger cracks with a couple of reachy moves through the overlaps." } ], "quality": 2, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": true, "description": null, "ascent": "Wayo Carson, Murray Judge, Matt Squires, Mar 2000." }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/darrans/darran-mountains/barrier-knob/north-face/variation-finish-endless-summer", "name": "Variation finish to Endless Summer", "grade": "18", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": "70m", "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": "25m", "bolts": "5", "trad": true, "ewbank": "17", "description": "From third belay, climb two slab pitches to reach three parallel finger cracks.\r\n 5 bolts and a small Friend." }, { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": "45m", "bolts": "8", "trad": true, "ewbank": "17", "description": "8 bolts." }, { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": true, "ewbank": "18", "description": "Optional cracks. Left-hand crack 17, middle crack 18." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": "8", "natural_pro": true, "description": null, "ascent": "Wayo Carson, Feb 2003." }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/darrans/darran-mountains/barrier-knob/north-face/snake", "name": "Snake", "grade": "17", "topo_ref": "2", "image": null, "images": [], "length": "70m", "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": "25m", "bolts": "5", "trad": true, "ewbank": "17", "description": "A three picth variation to Endless Summer. \r\nRight from the the third belay of ES.\r\nSlab pitch, 5b and smaal cam" }, { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": "45m", "bolts": "8", "trad": false, "ewbank": "17", "description": "Slab pitch, 8B" }, { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": true, "ewbank": "17", "description": "3 parallel finger cracks. Lh crack 17, middle crack 18." } ], "quality": 2, "bolts": "8", "natural_pro": true, "description": null, "ascent": "Waqyo Carson, Feb 2003" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/darrans/darran-mountains/barrier-knob/north-face/sidewinder", "name": "Sidewinder", "grade": "23", "topo_ref": "3", "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": true, "ewbank": "20", "description": "Climb the initial left slanting ramp of Endless Summer for 10m, stepping left to small ledge and belay." }, { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": "12", "trad": false, "ewbank": "23", "description": "Pull up and onto the slab, working up the right side of the smooth grey rock to hanging belay. A beautiful, sustained and technical slab pitch." }, { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": true, "ewbank": "20", "description": "50m. Up a small corner at the end of the roof then angle left past holes to finish up steep wall." }, { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": true, "ewbank": "20", "description": "Up right to above flake then up smooth grey rock on good pockets and a short wall to finish." }, { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": true, "ewbank": "15", "description": "Angle right to easy ground and scramble 75m up to the ring bolts.\r\nThere are three cracks on the wall below the top anchors: the left was led by Wayo Carson at grade 20; the centre by Keith Riley." } ], "quality": 3, "bolts": "12", "natural_pro": true, "description": null, "ascent": "Wayo Carson, Murray Judge, Feb 2002." }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/darrans/darran-mountains/barrier-knob/north-face/labyrinth", "name": "Labyrinth", "grade": "22", "topo_ref": "4", "image": null, "images": [], "length": "230m", "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": "50m", "bolts": "5", "trad": true, "ewbank": "20", "description": "The first and second pitches are now usually climbed as one, but watch for rope drag under the roof." }, { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": "40m", "bolts": "5", "trad": false, "ewbank": "22", "description": "Superb face climbing on small positive holds." }, { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": "45m", "bolts": "3", "trad": false, "ewbank": "21", "description": "Move left around the roof, clip the third bolt then make a long runout on positive holds." }, { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": "45m", "bolts": "1", "trad": true, "ewbank": "21", "description": "Climb the cracks to where the overhanging ar\u00eate starts a long reach left to a pocket, rock-over, then up the steepening headwall past two bolts and a horizontal spike." }, { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": "50m", "bolts": null, "trad": true, "ewbank": "16", "description": "Follow broken ar\u00eate to bolted belay." } ], "quality": 3, "bolts": "5", "natural_pro": true, "description": "A sustained and bold climb taking a direct line through steep slabs. Originally climbed and bolted on lead, it was re-bolted in 2001.", "ascent": "Paul Rogers, Murray Judge, March 1988" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/darrans/darran-mountains/barrier-knob/north-face/missing-link", "name": "Missing Link", "grade": "23", "topo_ref": "5", "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": true, "ewbank": "23", "description": "A grade 23 pitch that joins the second pitch of Labyrinth." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": true, "description": null, "ascent": "John Fisher, Murray Judge, Jan 1987." }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/darrans/darran-mountains/barrier-knob/north-face/sword-damocles", "name": "Sword of Damocles", "grade": "21", "topo_ref": "6", "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": true, "ewbank": "21", "description": "Start up the easy groove toward Labyrinth and continue up a short wall on right, stepping right again to first belay in middle of slab." }, { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": true, "ewbank": null, "description": "Head up and right of the overlaps to next belay." }, { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": true, "ewbank": null, "description": "Step round left onto juggy wall which still has original bolts and hangers.\r\nThe original route climbed a large hanging flake, the \u2018sword\u2019, which was dislodged by an earthquake in the winter of 1988. This section was subsequently climbed with two bolts and graded at 21 by Andy MacFarlane and Dave Brash in 1996. Andy also added a variant third pitch trending right through an overlap to finish up a sharp fin of rock, 20." } ], "quality": 2, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": true, "description": null, "ascent": "John Fisher, Murray Judge. Fifth and sixth pitches Bill McLeod, John Fisher, Jan 1987." }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/darrans/darran-mountains/barrier-knob/north-face/ritas-burritos", "name": "Rita's Burritos", "grade": "21", "topo_ref": "7", "image": null, "images": [], "length": "80m", "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": "50m", "bolts": "5", "trad": true, "ewbank": "21", "description": "Scramble up 10 metres from base to double bolt ring anchor. Climb up angling left past 2 bolts and on up left to water streak, where you'll find some gear. Continue up and right past 2 bolts (small cam useful) then angle back left to a 5th bolt then a couple of steep moves to pull flake feature (big cam useful). DBA in corner above flake." }, { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": "30m", "bolts": null, "trad": true, "ewbank": "18", "description": "Head up and right from belay on good edges. Turn roof feature on right and head up the left angling groove. From the top of groove go straight up and slightly left for \r\nabout 10 metres and find a DBA on ledge." }, { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": true, "ewbank": "20", "description": "Up the wall above belay trending slightly right then into V-groove above with old rusted rawl bolt anchor in it. Clip this anchor for protection (unfortunately). Find some good small-medium gear in the crack above and pull a few stiff moves to exit the corner. Then straight up on easier ground to a DBA." }, { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": true, "ewbank": "18", "description": "Straight up from belay to the right-trending undercling layback, turn this then head up angling right to DBA. This anchor is positioned to continue on to Chilli Con Kea, the two-pitch slab route up to the right." }, { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": true, "ewbank": "16", "description": "To climb the standard finish you must reverse 10 metres of the previous pitch, find the old rusted anchor on a ledge back out left, clip this, keep traversing left a few metres, then head straight up to the wide crack/flake." }, { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": true, "ewbank": "16", "description": "From the top of the wide flake crack find your way to the top using trad anchors It's another two pitches of mostly easy climbing." }, { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": true, "ewbank": "15", "description": "Mostly easy trad climbing to top." } ], "quality": 2, "bolts": "5", "natural_pro": true, "description": "Smooth slab and crack climbing with good natural pro placements. The route\nwas re-bolted 2001. The fifth pitch, completed by Murray Judge and Paul\nRogers, follows a wide crack on the left.", "ascent": "Murray Judge, Bronwyn Judge, Jan 1989." }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/darrans/darran-mountains/barrier-knob/north-face/chilli-con-kea", "name": "Chilli con Kea", "grade": "20", "topo_ref": "8", "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": true, "ewbank": "20", "description": "Two exposed pitches up a clean slab above the big roof. 20, 20. Tend right from the top of the fourth pitch of Rita\u2019s Burritos.\r\nRebolted 2001." } ], "quality": 1, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": true, "description": null, "ascent": "Jeremy Strang, Murray Judge, Feb 1990." }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/darrans/darran-mountains/barrier-knob/north-face/mexican-stand", "name": "Mexican Stand-off", "grade": "19", "topo_ref": "9", "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": true, "ewbank": "19", "description": "Start directly below the left-hand end of the large roof, climbing up and left to finish as for the Sword." } ], "quality": 1, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": true, "description": null, "ascent": "Bill Denz, Stu Allan, Feb 1978." }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/darrans/darran-mountains/barrier-knob/north-face/gecko-ledge", "name": "Gecko Ledge", "grade": "20", "topo_ref": "10", "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": true, "ewbank": "20", "description": "19, 20. Two pitches to the ledge directly below the big roof. Look for bolt above the diagonal flake on left.\r\nThis route gives access to the ledge below the roof." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": true, "description": null, "ascent": "Murray Judge, Bronwyn Judge, Feb 2005." }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/darrans/darran-mountains/barrier-knob/north-face/mcgregor-atkinson", "name": "McGregor-Atkinson", "grade": "17,M3", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": "0m", "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": "M3", "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": true, "ewbank": "17", "description": "Up rib onto easy ground then trending left across steep slab, across to flake crack and thin layback move then round corner into shallow groove (c. 16-17). 2 pegs for aid (thin to free) to foot of wet groove." }, { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": "M2", "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": "16", "description": "Up the groove, moving out left at the top with a peg for aid. Up easy ground and around left." }, { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": "15", "description": "Left and then up flake crack on jams and side-pulls. Up easy ground to foot of overhangs." }, { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": "M4", "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": "16", "description": "Left and up groove, over loose blocks then aiding on nuts out left (A2) to an alcove under an overhang with an unstable moss caterpillar and a 6-inch crack with a bolt (one of the first in the Darrans?)\r\nDescent by 4 abseils on first ascent." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": "0", "natural_pro": true, "description": "The groove/chimney leading up to below the roof in the middle of the North Face of Barrier Knob. [The route listed as 11 on p. 140 of the 2006 guidebook, it is probably between 9 and 10 in the photo on p. 138, heading up towards the big roofs.]", "ascent": "Rick McGregor and Bill Atkinson (alternating leads), 8 February 1975." }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/darrans/darran-mountains/barrier-knob/north-face/carson-judge", "name": "Carson Judge", "grade": null, "topo_ref": "12", "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": true, "ewbank": null, "description": "On the Right side of north face. \r\n\r\nEasy groove to lower left corner of hanging slab, bolt belay. Take grassy corner and follow groove to top of triangular rib." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": true, "description": null, "ascent": "Wayo Carson, Murray Judge, Feb 2002." }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/darrans/darran-mountains/barrier-knob/north-face/fly-higher", "name": "Fly Higher", "grade": "22", "topo_ref": "13", "image": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/route/IMG_1449.jpg?itok=zX9Q0OHH", "images": [ { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/route/IMG_1449.jpg?itok=zX9Q0OHH", "height": "244", "width": "325" } ], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": true, "ewbank": null, "description": "Take easy slab to the first bolt on a thin ledge slanting up and left." }, { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": true, "ewbank": "22", "description": "Climb the rough black rock on the right, trying to avoid the water, then step back left and up the water-worn slab to the scoop. There is often a water streak flowing." }, { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": true, "ewbank": "20", "description": "Up and reach left to clip the first bolt, then up the rib on shallow pockets to ring bolt.\r\nThe name refers to the light plane that had crashed into Gertrude Saddle some months earlier." } ], "quality": 3, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": true, "description": null, "ascent": "Wayo Carson, Murray Judge, Feb 2002." }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/darrans/darran-mountains/barrier-knob/north-face/fish-gills", "name": "Fish Gills", "grade": "23", "topo_ref": "14", "image": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/route/IMG_1451.jpg?itok=1njKuQku", "images": [ { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/route/IMG_1451.jpg?itok=1njKuQku", "height": "325", "width": "244" } ], "length": "200m", "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": "35m", "bolts": "4", "trad": true, "ewbank": "23", "description": "The starting ledge may be snow covered.\r\n\r\nInteresting and cruxy slab moves through the \u2018gills\u2019, then more climbing with a second crux to the hourglass flake. Four bolts." }, { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": "40m", "bolts": null, "trad": true, "ewbank": "19", "description": "Follow flake system left, stepping onto face, then up through vegetated corner and small roof and left to rejoin the flake." }, { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": "35m", "bolts": null, "trad": true, "ewbank": "17", "description": "Move around left on obvious jugs, clip bolt then follow vague ramp up and left to another bolt. Traverse left to anchor." }, { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": "20m", "bolts": null, "trad": true, "ewbank": "22", "description": "Exciting moves through flake into undercling; traverse into corner and bridge up, exiting left." }, { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": "40m", "bolts": null, "trad": true, "ewbank": "19", "description": "Follow blunt ar\u00eate on right hand side of slab, then step left and follow bolts to top." }, { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": "30m", "bolts": null, "trad": true, "ewbank": "15", "description": "Follow crack system up and left to top-out on scree slope." } ], "quality": 2, "bolts": "4", "natural_pro": true, "description": null, "ascent": "Wayo Carson, Sean Horsley, Feb 2001." }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/darrans/darran-mountains/barrier-knob/north-face/ma%C5%88ana", "name": "Ma\u0148ana", "grade": "21", "topo_ref": "15", "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": true, "ewbank": "20", "description": "Starts on sloping ledge; delicate moves up to belay." }, { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": true, "ewbank": "21", "description": "Left to bolt, then hard move to second bolt or an easier variant out right." }, { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": true, "ewbank": "20", "description": "Traverse right and climb steep pocketed black wall past three bolts. Continue up and left." }, { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": true, "ewbank": "19", "description": "Up to roof, then traverse right passing three bolts to belay." }, { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": true, "ewbank": null, "description": "Take the slab moves straight up. Belay is left and above blocky ar\u00eate." }, { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": true, "ewbank": "19", "description": "Natural gear to belay.\r\nThere are ring bolts 20m down from Fish Gills. Ma\u0148ana gives the most direct rap down." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": true, "description": null, "ascent": "Jamie Foxley, Murray Judge, Feb 2004." }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/darrans/darran-mountains/barrier-knob/north-face/bandito", "name": "Bandito", "grade": "15", "topo_ref": "16", "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": true, "ewbank": "15", "description": "A slab route to the first belay of Day Tripper." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": true, "description": null, "ascent": "Wayo Carson, Matt Squires, Mar 2000." }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/darrans/darran-mountains/barrier-knob/north-face/day-tripper", "name": "Day Tripper", "grade": "16", "topo_ref": "17", "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": true, "ewbank": "16", "description": "Two pitches. Start 10 metres right of Fish Gills. Requires one abseil from top bolts." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": true, "description": null, "ascent": "Doug Carson, Murray Judge, 1988." }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/darrans/darran-mountains/barrier-knob/north-face/carson-judge-0", "name": "Carson Judge", "grade": "21", "topo_ref": "18", "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": true, "ewbank": "21", "description": "Three pitches: 17, 17, 21. Located at the end of the sidle from the traverse just right of the rock rib." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": true, "description": null, "ascent": "Wayo Carson, Murray Judge, 2005." }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/darrans/darran-mountains/barrier-knob/north-face/denz-judge", "name": "Denz Judge", "grade": null, "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": true, "ewbank": null, "description": "A four pitch route midway along the steep section of the face. Climb a groove to a loose block in an overhang, then step right and climb a corner to the ridge." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": true, "description": null, "ascent": "Bill Denz, Murray Judge, Feb 1977." }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/darrans/darran-mountains/barrier-knob/north-face/english-gabites-reichwein", "name": "English Gabites Reichwein", "grade": null, "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": true, "ewbank": null, "description": "The gully at the right-hand end of the steep section of rock." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": true, "description": null, "ascent": "Merv English, Geoff Gabites, Peter Reichwein, 1977." } ], "places": [], "image": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/wide/public/image/D46.jpg?itok=jLmGxbzL", "images": [ { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/wide/public/image/D46.jpg?itok=jLmGxbzL", "height": "428", "width": "612" }, { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/image/Barrier%20Nth.jpg?itok=Ct9AWKPX", "height": "230", "width": "325" } ] }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/darrans/darran-mountains/barrier-knob/barrier-bluffs", "name": "Barrier Bluffs", "altitude": null, "access": "Summer\nDanger Will Robinson was accessed via the highest scree fan below Black Lake: scramble up the creek to a large terrace below the face. To access The Joker and nearby routes, gain height on the right-hand side of the slopes directly out of the lower Gertrude Valley until a left-tending ledge system can be followed to the base of the routes. To descend it is five abseils to easy ground, or traverse to Gertrude Saddle.\nWinter\nWinter routes on the Barrier Bluffs have the advantage of a pleasant walk up the Gertrude. The slabby ground below the Bluffs merits some care, but generally gives straightforward access to all routes. The climbs are severely threatened by the slopes above, so keep a wary eye out for releases on the Barrier Face during the previous afternoon. To descend, either rap the routes or traverse the slopes to Gertrude Saddle.", "description": "The Barrier Bluffs, at the head of the Gertrude Valley below Barrier Knob, provide winter and summer routes.", "latlng": null, "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/darrans/darran-mountains/barrier-knob/barrier-bluffs/when-friends-drop", "name": "When Friends Drop By", "grade": "20", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": true, "ewbank": "20", "description": "Up from the grassed areas. Follow a wide flake that opens to the right, almost wide enough to chimney inside. Continuing up relatively easy terrain to a ledge. Move up and left of a fairly blank wall (crux) then two more relatively easier pitches to the top.\r\n\u201cIt just got completely blank before I could reach easier ground again. At that point I took a winger and unzipped all the pro. I dropped all the way back to the ledge from about 15 meters up landing just beside Graeme, hence the name.\u201d Dave Carlyle" } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": true, "description": null, "ascent": "Dave Carlyle, Graeme Love, 1984." }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/darrans/darran-mountains/barrier-knob/barrier-bluffs/ramping-time", "name": "Ramping Time", "grade": "3,IV", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": "3", "commitment": "IV", "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": true, "ewbank": null, "description": "Climb thin ice on the right for one pitch, then traverse left for two pitches to the bottom of a right-sloping ramp, three pitches to the snowfield." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": true, "description": null, "ascent": "Jeremy Strang, Kiersten Price, Sept 1990." }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/darrans/darran-mountains/barrier-knob/barrier-bluffs/danger-will-robinson", "name": "Danger Will Robinson", "grade": "18", "topo_ref": "3", "image": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/route/IMG_1445.jpg?itok=uoSYJXk-", "images": [ { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/route/IMG_1445.jpg?itok=uoSYJXk-", "height": "244", "width": "325" } ], "length": "290m", "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": "40m", "bolts": null, "trad": true, "ewbank": "18", "description": "Buttress to grassy corner below diagonal roof." }, { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": "40m", "bolts": null, "trad": true, "ewbank": null, "description": "Corner of left slab to roof. Out along crack and more easily up corner system to a big ledge." }, { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": "35m", "bolts": null, "trad": true, "ewbank": null, "description": "Onto slab and then to shattered corner. Climb buttress on the right then up to a ramp leading down right. Move down to belay on nose." }, { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": "45m", "bolts": null, "trad": true, "ewbank": null, "description": "Traverse right to easy ramp and corner above." }, { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": "45m", "bolts": null, "trad": true, "ewbank": null, "description": "Following left-tending corner. Hard move through a double mossy corner and over jammed block. Move to ledge and left to belay below \u2018peapod\u2019 flakes." }, { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": "35m", "bolts": null, "trad": true, "ewbank": null, "description": "Move through slab and blocks to left, then diverge right from obvious direct line which appears harder and descend right along flakes and up to belay." }, { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": "50m", "bolts": null, "trad": true, "ewbank": null, "description": "Blocks and a steep short wall to a slab. Tend right in slanting grooves then up to below lip." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": true, "description": null, "ascent": "Ian Brown, Tom Williams, Feb 2002." }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/darrans/darran-mountains/barrier-knob/barrier-bluffs/ice-one", "name": "Ice One", "grade": "3,IV", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": "3", "commitment": "IV", "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": true, "ewbank": null, "description": "The left slanting gully below a steep wall, left of the Joker.\r\nRarely in condition." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": true, "description": null, "ascent": "Nigel Perry, Duncan Ritchie, Oct 1981." }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/darrans/darran-mountains/barrier-knob/barrier-bluffs/tessellate", "name": "Tessellate", "grade": "25", "topo_ref": null, "image": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/routes/B325C30B-1483-4E2B-B11A-6A61AF1B485D.jpeg?itok=gb1V3gAK", "images": [ { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/routes/B325C30B-1483-4E2B-B11A-6A61AF1B485D.jpeg?itok=gb1V3gAK", "height": "325", "width": "244" } ], "length": "200m", "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": "35m", "bolts": "2", "trad": true, "ewbank": "18", "description": "Scramble up to left trending ramp past 2B and gear around corner to DBB" }, { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": "40m", "bolts": "3", "trad": true, "ewbank": "19", "description": "Up corner, through overlaps then trending left and up. 3B." }, { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": "40m", "bolts": "2", "trad": true, "ewbank": "18", "description": "Steep face with 2B to grassy ledge and mantle into corners, left of the Finger of Doom, then wide crack to hanging belay." }, { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": "20m", "bolts": "1", "trad": true, "ewbank": "20", "description": "Clip bolt and fire up offwidth and right trending crack with good jams, then carefully up corner to large ledge." }, { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": "35m", "bolts": "12", "trad": false, "ewbank": "25", "description": "Right from belay, chimney up to first bolt. Technical face climbing steepens to wild pulls between huge jugs to top of overhang." }, { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": "30m", "bolts": "3", "trad": true, "ewbank": "19", "description": "Rock over onto slab and up to first bolt, around corner and up slab on beautiful rock tending right past two more bolts and gear." } ], "quality": 2, "bolts": "12", "natural_pro": true, "description": "6p, 200m, 25 mainly natural pro, all anchors DBB\nApproach\nFollow the Gertrude Saddle track uphill for 100m past the main stream crossing. When the track heads left at a prominent pyramid boulder continue up the vegetated scree ridge skirting low angle slabs on the left. Scramble up to the base of the wall directly below the prominent triangle face. 60-90mins.\nSee topo map attached for details.\nDecent\nRecommend 2x 60m ropes. A 55m abseil from the top of P5 to the top of P3 is recommended. Take care for blocks on ledges", "ascent": "Friederike Andree, Sefton Priestley, February 2021" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/darrans/darran-mountains/barrier-knob/barrier-bluffs/generation-x", "name": "Generation X", "grade": "19", "topo_ref": "5", "image": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/route/IMG_1455.jpg?itok=wv1wU2GN", "images": [ { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/route/IMG_1455.jpg?itok=wv1wU2GN", "height": "325", "width": "244" } ], "length": "80m", "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": "30m", "bolts": null, "trad": true, "ewbank": "16", "description": "From the belay at the top of the third pitch of Aces High climb diagonally left on slabs and around ar\u00eate to bolt belay." }, { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": "50m", "bolts": "4", "trad": true, "ewbank": "19", "description": ". Up face and ar\u00eate edge to natural belay on large sloping ledge, four bolts." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": "4", "natural_pro": true, "description": null, "ascent": "Steve Carr, Dave Brash, Feb 1999." }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/darrans/darran-mountains/barrier-knob/barrier-bluffs/aces-high", "name": "Aces High", "grade": "23", "topo_ref": "4", "image": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/route/IMG_1455_0.jpg?itok=JRyozBNP", "images": [ { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/route/IMG_1455_0.jpg?itok=JRyozBNP", "height": "325", "width": "244" } ], "length": "180m", "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": "50m", "bolts": "2", "trad": true, "ewbank": "17", "description": "From the groove right of the block climb the off-width crack and up the slab and ar\u00eate to ledge at top." }, { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": "30m", "bolts": "3", "trad": true, "ewbank": "20", "description": "Scramble up to higher ledge and follow left crack, then past three bolts to bolt belay." }, { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": "40m", "bolts": "6", "trad": true, "ewbank": "23", "description": "Three bolts and pin to overlap then trend left. Two bolts protect rising traverse (crux) to smaller corner (natural pro) then out left past sixth bolt to belay close to corner." }, { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": "35m", "bolts": "2", "trad": true, "ewbank": "17", "description": "Two bolts above belay then follow crack up and right to belay on spike on Joker ar\u00eate to right of big roof." }, { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": "25m", "bolts": "1", "trad": true, "ewbank": "21", "description": ". Climb above spike to fixed pin, then move left to clip bolt. Follow thin ramp up left, clip bolt then direct finish up scalloped rock." } ], "quality": 2, "bolts": "6", "natural_pro": true, "description": null, "ascent": "Dave Brash, Steve Carr, Andrew MacFarlane, Feb 1999." }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/darrans/darran-mountains/barrier-knob/barrier-bluffs/joker", "name": "The Joker", "grade": "19", "topo_ref": "6", "image": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/route/IMG_1455_1.jpg?itok=O-OKVW8Q", "images": [ { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/route/IMG_1455_1.jpg?itok=O-OKVW8Q", "height": "325", "width": "244" } ], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": true, "ewbank": "19", "description": "Five pitches to the snowfield. Climb Evil Gully to below ar\u00eate. Trend up on the right side of the ar\u00eate for two easy but run-out pitches ending in a spike belay back on the ar\u00eate. Two beautiful pitches to finish on the terraces.\r\n \u2018Hard, dark, savage and ugly, but I recommend it!\u2019 Calum Hudson" } ], "quality": 1, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": true, "description": null, "ascent": "Nick Edge, Calum Hudson, 1978." }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/darrans/darran-mountains/barrier-knob/barrier-bluffs/nobility-spirit", "name": "Nobility of Spirit", "grade": "4,IV", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": "4", "commitment": "IV", "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": true, "ewbank": null, "description": "Take the gully-line right of the Joker ar\u00eate. 9 or 10 pitches, with some superb ice that progressively steepens through the climb. Crux pitch is the last: a thinly iced vertical wall that leads onto easier ground." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": true, "description": null, "ascent": "Andy MacFarlane, Mark Bryan, Jul 1998." }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/darrans/darran-mountains/barrier-knob/barrier-bluffs/barrier-cream", "name": "Barrier Cream", "grade": "3,III", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": "3", "commitment": "III", "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": true, "ewbank": null, "description": "Five pitches of ice up the wide gully immediately left of the main Barrier face gully to the snowfield." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": true, "description": null, "ascent": "Al Mark, Kiersten Price, Sept 1990." } ], "places": [], "image": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/wide/public/image/Barrier%20Bluff.jpg?itok=QQaDNGY2", "images": [ { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/wide/public/image/Barrier%20Bluff.jpg?itok=QQaDNGY2", "height": "636", "width": "900" }, { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/image/Barrier%20Bluffs%20Photodiagram.jpg?itok=3sL4koAm", "height": "244", "width": "325" } ] } ], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/fiordland/sheerdown-hills/sheerdown-pk": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/fiordland/sheerdown-hills/sheerdown-pk", "name": "Sheerdown Pk", "altitude": "1878m", "access": "The North West, South and East ridges are accessed via the east face which drops down toward the Milford highway. Cross the river at The Chasm bridge and head for the base of the cleft that separates the slabs from the bush on the left. Head up and right towards waterfalls that drop from the apex of the shoulder of Sheerdown and the South East Ridge. Cut back left at two-thirds height through steep scrub to large tussock slopes.", "description": "The sheer walls of Sheerdown Peak can seem daunting when seen from the Milford highway, but climbers are rewarded with spectacular views across to Tutoko and west to Milford Sound and the Tasman Sea.", "latlng": [ "-44.69985431", "167.93869301" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/fiordland/sheerdown-hills/sheerdown-pk/north-west-ridge", "name": "North West Ridge", "grade": null, "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "Up to the south shoulder and across snowfields on the south-west side of the peak to the North West Ridge, which is followed to the summit." } ], "quality": 1, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Wynne Croll, Forester Davidson, Jack Ede, Ralph Miller, Bill Gordon, 1954" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/fiordland/sheerdown-hills/sheerdown-pk/south-ridge", "name": "South Ridge", "grade": null, "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "From the south shoulder climb the buttress on the south peak directly then continue to the summit." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Paul Corwin, Jill Kelman, Brian Fish, Judy Terpstra, March 1977" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/fiordland/sheerdown-hills/sheerdown-pk/east-ridge", "name": "East Ridge", "grade": null, "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "From the south shoulder traverse below the south peak to the East Ridge. An exposed route." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Calum Hudson, January 1982" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/fiordland/sheerdown-hills/sheerdown-pk/repeater-route", "name": "Repeater Route", "grade": null, "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "\"More of a hairy tramping route.\" Cross the Cleddau River behind the Milford Lodge and climb through bush to the top of Airport Wall. Continue straight up through monkey scrub and on to tussock, past the Repeater Station to Pt 1723. Head along the ridge and join the North West Ridge." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Bruce Dowrick, Al, Dave, 6 March 2010" } ], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/nelson-lakes/st-arnaud-range/mt-mcrae": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/nelson-lakes/st-arnaud-range/mt-mcrae", "name": "Mt McRae", "altitude": "1878m", "access": null, "description": "Easily reached from either Lake Rotoiti and Rainbow Ski Field.", "latlng": [ "-41.88198", "172.8458" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/nelson-lakes/st-arnaud-range/mt-mcrae/lake-rotoiti-route", "name": "Lake Rotoiti Route", "grade": "1", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": "1", "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "Ascend the scree just north of the Lake Head Hut jetty and then the obvious gut, topping out on the range above Rainbow Skifield. Head south over easy ground." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": null } ], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/cascade-top": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/cascade-top", "name": "Cascade Top", "altitude": "1877m", "access": null, "description": null, "latlng": [ "-43.09519145", "171.27886231" ], "routes": [], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/canterbury/mt-hutt-range/steepface-hill": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/canterbury/mt-hutt-range/steepface-hill", "name": "Steepface Hill", "altitude": "1876m", "access": null, "description": "Mount Hutt Range", "latlng": [ "-43.4236871", "171.5277227" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/steepface-hill/terrible-gully-left", "name": "Terrible gully left", "grade": "I,1", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": "I", "mtcook": "1", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "Park at Terrible gully doc sign, head up gully for 1km take gully up left to ridge, follow ridge to top." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": null } ], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/hawkdun-top": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/hawkdun-top", "name": "Hawkdun Top", "altitude": "1876m", "access": null, "description": null, "latlng": [ "-44.74221786", "169.97306369" ], "routes": [], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aspiring/selborne-range/pt-1875": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aspiring/selborne-range/pt-1875", "name": "Pt 1875", "altitude": "1875m", "access": null, "description": null, "latlng": [ "-44.06918034", "168.91767566" ], "routes": [], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/miromiro": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/miromiro", "name": "Miromiro", "altitude": "1875m", "access": null, "description": null, "latlng": [ "-42.48294442", "172.66791921" ], "routes": [], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/kahurangi/marino-mountains/mt-owen": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/kahurangi/marino-mountains/mt-owen", "name": "Mt Owen", "altitude": "1875m", "access": "from the North via Granity Pass Hut\nfrom the South via Owen River Valley", "description": "Highest summit on the marble massif", "latlng": null, "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/kahurangi/marino-mountains/mt-owen/hay-paddock-route", "name": "Hay Paddock Route", "grade": "1+", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "1+", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": null } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": "Cross from the Granity Pass Hut to the prominent old lateral moraine (known as the Railway Embankment). Ground trails lead onto a large area of schist-based tussock and tarns (known as the Hay Paddock), which overlies the predominant marble of the Mt Owen massif. From tarns south of Sentinel Hill, aim for the best route onto the rock and then onto the ridge north of the peak.", "ascent": null }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/kahurangi/marino-mountains/mt-owen/owen-river-route", "name": "Owen River Route", "grade": "1", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": "1", "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "After gold-bearing quartz was found in 1886, gold miners worked up the Owen River, though little evidence remains today apart from the names of many of the side streams. From SH6, drive up the Owen Valley East Rd to the Carrol Creek car park, from where an old dray road follows the river to the Bulmer Creek junction. A marked track climbs steeply up a spur to Sunrise Peak. It is possible to continue through the waterless and wild karst country to Mt Owen in a long day trip. Route finding through the spectacular eroded limestone and marble can be rather time consuming." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": null }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/kahurangi/marino-mountains/mt-owen/bulmer-route", "name": "Bulmer Route", "grade": "2", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "2", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "Another route (used by cavers) follows up Bulmer Creek and along a prominent ledge in the limestone bluffs at its head to Bulmer Lake. From here it is fairly good travel on tussock and scree, through Castle Basin to Poverty Basin (campsites and small tarns in each). Continue into a basin east of Replica Hill. Routes can be found through the karst." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": null } ], "places": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/kahurangi/marino-mountains/mt-owen/prospector-cliffs", "name": "Prospector Cliffs", "altitude": "1200m", "access": "From Courthouse Flat (The Wangapeka River Roadend), take the track to Granity Pass. After descending the 'Staircase' (map name, and the access to the multipitch 'Staircase Crag' - see Mt Owen guidebook), fill your drinkbottles at the sidestream (2hrs from car) and continue another 5 minutes along the track through beech forest to the site of the old prospectors hut. Large cliffs can be seen through the trees on the West side of the valley below pt 1507 - they are your destination (the large cliff opposite, on the East side, is Staircase crag). From here, leave the track, cross the creek into the open and go up a large scree fan, easiest on the climbers right side. At the top are the Prospector Cliffs; the base of climbs can be accessed by gaining the highest grass shelf under the cliffs and sidling upwards along it (a few exposed spots; careful if wet). Routes can be descended by walking off via a scrubby gully to the North(snap a reference photo on the approach), back to an easy sidle below the cliffs / above bushline, or possibly by the central gully that splits them. There are several promising bivvy caves along the base of the cliffs but no water on-site.", "description": "A set of large East-facing marble cliffs housing multipitch potential for trad, mixed pro and sport climbs. These are on the climbers right side (West Side) of the valley between 'Staircase' and Granity Pass hut, on the Granity Pass track (Mt Owen). They face the established Staircase crag routes on the other (East side) of the valley.", "latlng": [ "-41.511349", "172.538652" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/kahurangi/marino-mountains/mt-owen/prospector-cliffs/there-will-be-blood", "name": "There Will be Blood", "grade": "20", "topo_ref": null, "image": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/2023-12/20231119_085918.jpg?itok=PByaW-22", "images": [ { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/2023-12/20231119_085918.jpg?itok=PByaW-22", "height": "244", "width": "325" }, { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/2023-12/20231201_083833.jpg?itok=KC42hSvy", "height": "244", "width": "325" }, { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/2023-12/20231201_090914.jpg?itok=DAcXU2aN", "height": "244", "width": "325" }, { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/2023-12/20231201_090927.jpg?itok=BAbQOqf8", "height": "244", "width": "325" }, { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/2023-12/20231201_091618.jpg?itok=Xx9HsIdo", "height": "244", "width": "325" }, { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/2023-12/20231201_132545.jpg?itok=PLsTNQG4", "height": "244", "width": "325" }, { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/2023-12/20231201_150756.jpg?itok=SfU6zPFM", "height": "244", "width": "325" }, { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/2023-12/20231201_152735.jpg?itok=_jvnvJw5", "height": "244", "width": "325" } ], "length": "72m", "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": "47m", "bolts": null, "trad": true, "ewbank": "20", "description": "Move up and right past pockets (purple totem) to gain the corner (no crack yet, just pockets), then up a slab leading to steep crux (flaring crack/slot). Place gear - good on horns then small wire and bad cam - then up crack (or in from left, vertical face climbing on good holds) and struggle through a few bad holds to good holds just past where angle eases. Slab fall potential, gear questionable. Would be worth adding 1-3 bolts - on the bulge near start, and especially at the crux. Then up corner crack above (sharp calcite) through several steps. The steepest one can be avoided by moving left (feet on loose blocks) then back up and right in a lower angle crack (big block, hollow at bottom, don't place gear?) to rejoin main corner. Cool move on big handhold over steep top and belay" }, { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": "25m", "bolts": null, "trad": true, "ewbank": "15", "description": "Awesome gear corner - not sharp - then avoid big roof at top by moving out right and up the vertical right wall on perfect face holds and pockets. Belay above (cracks on low angle marble)." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": "0", "natural_pro": true, "description": "Giant left-facing corner crack; would be a completely classic trad route except it is SHARP! The second pitch is shorter but much smoother. Edges will dull with traffic. For now, recommend sturdy crack/tape gloves, and doing in 3 pitches with your rope doubled, using halfrope technique - there is danger of cutting your rope on sharp prickles/edges (or lug thicker half ropes up there).\nVery visible from the track from upvalley; impossible to see from downvalley, but it's up and right of a huge slanting cave at the base of the cliffs.\nGear: SR to #4(optional), doubles finger-hands size gear. Second 3 and the 4 may be useful, especially if not highly confident at the grade.\nWalk off in light scrub/scree gully a few hundred meters North (climbers R), and sidle back along the base of the cliffs.", "ascent": "Ruari Macfarlane, Dec 2023" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/kahurangi/marino-mountains/mt-owen/prospector-cliffs/agony-and-ecstasy", "name": "The Agony and the Ecstasy", "grade": "20", "topo_ref": null, "image": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/2023-12/20231201_083833.jpg?itok=KC42hSvy", "images": [ { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/2023-12/20231201_083833.jpg?itok=KC42hSvy", "height": "244", "width": "325" }, { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/2023-12/20231119_085918_0.jpg?itok=EHfE5bRy", "height": "244", "width": "325" }, { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/2023-12/20231201_170054.jpg?itok=8zjO3ez0", "height": "244", "width": "325" }, { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/2023-12/20231201_170747.jpg?itok=up5S2eyp", "height": "244", "width": "325" }, { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/2023-12/20231201_171253.jpg?itok=lsYk_eBn", "height": "244", "width": "325" }, { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/2023-12/20231201_172035.jpg?itok=B-AO8D7J", "height": "244", "width": "325" } ], "length": "74m", "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": "47m", "bolts": null, "trad": true, "ewbank": "20", "description": "Climb P1 of TWBB to gear belay at main ledge." }, { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": "27m", "bolts": null, "trad": true, "ewbank": "17", "description": "Place a couple pieces of gear up the corner directly above the anchor (the first few meters of TWBB Pitch 2) then commit to moving up and left through a bulge into easier climbing up a crack (jams and gear) to the top. Finish by moving left just below the lip to avoid the sharpest final steep bit. Good belay on small cams or big slung block on slab above." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": "0", "natural_pro": true, "description": "A stellar (but SHARP) face crack (hands/fist) variation finish to There Will Be blood. Climb P1 of TWBB to gear belay at main ledge, then place a couple pieces of gear in the corner directly above the anchor (the first few meters on P2 of TWBB) then commit to moving up and left, and through a bulge into easier climbing and gear above to the top. You can finish by moving left just below the lip to avoid the sharpest final steep bit. Good belay on small cams or big slung block on slab above.\nWalk off in gully to North as for TWBB (a steep descent down the gully just right/south may also be possible).", "ascent": "Ruari Macfarlane, Dec 2023" } ], "places": [], "image": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/wide/public/2023-12/20231201_083842.jpg?itok=UZHJQIl-", "images": [ { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/wide/public/2023-12/20231201_083842.jpg?itok=UZHJQIl-", "height": "818", "width": "1090" }, { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/wide/public/2023-12/20231119_084454.jpg?itok=mLZ_yYUm", "height": "818", "width": "1090" }, { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/wide/public/2023-12/20231201_083819.jpg?itok=GDV9o4Ae", "height": "818", "width": "1090" }, { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/wide/public/2023-12/20231201_083833.jpg?itok=7_wu46Ab", "height": "818", "width": "1090" }, { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/wide/public/2023-12/prospector%20cliffs%20overview.png?itok=769HrQ51", "height": "818", "width": "1090" }, { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/2023-12/20231119_084445.jpg?itok=sG1XSRkS", "height": "244", "width": "325" }, { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/2023-12/20231119_085918.jpg?itok=PByaW-22", "height": "244", "width": "325" }, { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/2023-12/20231201_085230.jpg?itok=aCI7flEC", "height": "244", "width": "325" }, { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/2023-12/20231201_090101.jpg?itok=_NY7zF4e", "height": "244", "width": "325" }, { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/2023-12/20231201_092804.jpg?itok=kqPjSoP1", "height": "244", "width": "325" } ] } ], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/canterbury/craigieburn-range/mt-cockayne": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/canterbury/craigieburn-range/mt-cockayne", "name": "Mt Cockayne", "altitude": "1874m", "access": null, "description": "Mount Cheeseman Ski Area", "latlng": [ "-43.151286", "171.661463" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/canterbury/craigieburn-range/mt-cockayne/broken-river-mt-cheeseman-traverse", "name": "Broken River to Mt Cheeseman Traverse", "grade": null, "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": "380m", "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": "380m", "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": null } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": "0", "natural_pro": false, "description": "From the top of the main rope tow at Broken River, put on skins and travel south-west along the undulating ridge \u2013 over Sunny Peak on to Pt 1884m, and continue to another small bump (K34 018 850), where the ridge to Mount Wall heads east. Approximately 30 minutes from Broken River ski area, the day lodge of which is still visible.\nThe basin that descends to the NE of here is known as \u201cYukon bowl\u201d, and is a pleasant 240 vertical metre ski descent down to a flat area where skins can be re-applied for the climb back out. There are steep rocky slopes below here, and on either side, so going back up the fall line is the best option, rather than trying a short cut return directly towards Broken River.\nFrom K34 018 850, to go on to Mount Cheeseman, ski down the main ridge to the south-west and skin up, over Pt 1834m and then a few zig-zags up the north ridge of Mount Cockayne, which overlooks the Mount Cheeseman skifield. 3.5 km and 75 to 90 minutes in total from Broken River to Cheeseman Ski Area. In reverse, similar times from Cheeseman to Broken River.\nA ski descent can be made SW off Pt 1834m into the headwaters of Cockayne Creek, if snow conditions suit.", "ascent": null } ], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/mt-crichton-north": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/mt-crichton-north", "name": "Mt Crichton", "altitude": "1873m", "access": null, "description": null, "latlng": [ "-45.01995974", "168.48405939" ], "routes": [], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aspiring/barrier-range/brenda-pk": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aspiring/barrier-range/brenda-pk", "name": "Brenda Pk", "altitude": "1872m", "access": null, "description": "tba", "latlng": [ "-44.513014", "168.278103" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aspiring/barrier-range/brenda-pk/normal-routes", "name": "Normal Routes", "grade": null, "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "Climb from the north side of Fohn Saddle or from the north." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": null } ], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aspiring/barrier-range/corinna-pk": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aspiring/barrier-range/corinna-pk", "name": "Corinna Pk", "altitude": "1872m", "access": null, "description": "tba", "latlng": [ "-44.512096", "168.273812" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aspiring/barrier-range/corinna-pk/standard-route", "name": "Standard Route", "grade": null, "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "As for Brenda Peak, then from Brenda Peak." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": null } ], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/nelson-lakes/ella-range/mt-watson": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/nelson-lakes/ella-range/mt-watson", "name": "Mt Watson", "altitude": "1871m", "access": null, "description": null, "latlng": [ "-42.00754", "172.5746" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/nelson-lakes/ella-range/mt-watson/ella-range-tops-route", "name": "Ella Range Tops Route", "grade": "1,I", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": "1", "commitment": "I", "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "From the site of Matakitaki Base Hut (now removed) an old cut track goes up Watson Creek. Tussock basins lead to the range north of Mt Watson. The tops can be followed north to Mole Saddle, or southwards (keeping on the western slopes just north of point 1870m). An old cullers\u2019 route south of Peak Creek to the tops (shown on map M30) is not signposted and is difficult to follow." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": null } ], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/mt-stanley-north": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/mt-stanley-north", "name": "Mt Stanley", "altitude": "1870m", "access": null, "description": null, "latlng": [ "-42.25699278", "172.67642086" ], "routes": [], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/lewis-pass-harper-pass/main-divide/mt-technical": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/lewis-pass-harper-pass/main-divide/mt-technical", "name": "Mt Technical", "altitude": "1870m", "access": "Unless you have a 4WD vehicle, it is best to park your car at the start of the St James Walkway, and walk 500m to the Lewis Pass. Follow the track to the bush edge. Continue past numerous tarns (good ski touring in winter) and into the basin at the head of Deer Valley.", "description": "This peak is actually just east of the Divide, south-west of Lewis Pass. But if, as we do, you consider the Main Divide of the Southern Alps begins at Lewis Pass, this is the first substantial peak on the range.", "latlng": [ "-42.40864794", "172.35367457" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/lewis-pass-harper-pass/main-divide/mt-technical/standard-route", "name": "Standard Route", "grade": "1", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": "1", "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "Gain the west ridge where it flattens out at about 1740m. Descend a short steep gully to the Lucretia Stream side and follow a rock debris shelf until a scree gully leads directly to the summit." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": null }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/lewis-pass-harper-pass/main-divide/mt-technical/north-ridge", "name": "North Ridge", "grade": "3", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": "3", "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "Generally good rock. Gendarmes and exposed slabs may require a rope. From the junction of the north and west ridges to the summit, careful climbing is needed to negotiate some gendarmes." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": null } ], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/darrans/darran-mountains/mihj-pk": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/darrans/darran-mountains/mihj-pk", "name": "Mihj Pk", "altitude": "1870m", "access": null, "description": "Mihj Peak is shown incorrectly on topomaps as Pt 1644 metres, further south on the ridge.", "latlng": [ "-44.698738", "168.024988" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/darrans/darran-mountains/mihj-pk/south-ridge", "name": "South Ridge", "grade": null, "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": "From Moraine Creek climb slabs below the peak, angling left across the narrowing shelf to gain the ridge just north of Darran Pass. The first ascent party descended the West Ridge and traversed back to the foot of the South Ridge.", "ascent": "Malcolm Imlay, Gerry Hall-Jones, April 1955" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/darrans/darran-mountains/mihj-pk/east-face", "name": "East Face", "grade": null, "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": true, "ewbank": null, "description": "Eight pitches. Up tussock and slabs to the centre of the face, then climb direct to the summit." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": true, "description": null, "ascent": "Murray Judge, Bronwyn Tilly, Judy Terpstra, Feb 1975." }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/darrans/darran-mountains/mihj-pk/south-west-face", "name": "South West Face", "grade": null, "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "Cross over Darran Pass to gain this small face." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Murray Jones, Vicki Thompson, 1974." } ], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/nelson-lakes-kaikc58dura/seaward-kaikc58dura-range/snowflake": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/nelson-lakes-kaikc58dura/seaward-kaikc58dura-range/snowflake", "name": "Snowflake", "altitude": "1870m", "access": null, "description": null, "latlng": [ "-42.283725", "173.528679" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/nelson-lakes-kaik%C5%8Dura/seaward-kaik%C5%8Dura-range/snowflake/homestead-spur-route", "name": "Homestead Spur Route", "grade": "1,I", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": "1", "commitment": "I", "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "" } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": "This long waterless spur can be gained from near Swyncombe Farm, off Inland Kaik\u014dura Road. Alternatively, from the Kowhai River take a spur on the south bank of Rokomaiwhaea Creek (locally known as Orange Grove Stream) to Orange Grove Saddle (800m, campsite here). Some short steep and rough sections. Traverse the subsidiary peak to the higher summit.", "ascent": null }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/nelson-lakes-kaik%C5%8Dura/seaward-kaik%C5%8Dura-range/snowflake/snowflake-stream-route", "name": "Snowflake Stream Route", "grade": "1,I", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": "1", "commitment": "I", "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": null } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": "From the junction with the Kowhai River, turn the first of three waterfalls in Snowflake Stream with a steep scramble on the true right. After the 640m contour (campsite here on tussock terrace on true right) climb a prominent spur to Pt 991. An enjoyable winter climb. Scree and tussock at the head of Snowflake Stream also gives a route.", "ascent": null } ], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/arthurs-pass/aicken-range/mt-russell": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/arthurs-pass/aicken-range/mt-russell", "name": "Mt Russel", "altitude": "1868m", "access": null, "description": "tba", "latlng": [ "-42.84850251", "171.65257931" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/arthurs-pass/aicken-range/mt-russell/deception-river-spur", "name": "Deception River Spur", "grade": "1", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": "1", "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "Approached via the heavily wooded spur that ascends from the Deception River. This spur is on the true-left of the stream that drains the amphitheatre under its summit. Very ugly best describes this route" } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "H Jackson, A Jackson, December 1930" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/arthurs-pass/aicken-range/mt-russell/lower-deception", "name": "From Lower Deception", "grade": "2", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": "2", "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "Approached from the lower Deception Valley by ascending Midday Creek and its slide. Bear south towards the saddle above Spray Creek and then onto Mt Russell via one very exposed section of rotten ridgeline." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": null } ], "places": [], "image": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/wide/public/image/1-P3063585.JPG?itok=nRF61SlB", "images": [ { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/wide/public/image/1-P3063585.JPG?itok=nRF61SlB", "height": "497", "width": "900" } ] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/fiordland/darran-mountains/mt-hunka": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/fiordland/darran-mountains/mt-hunka", "name": "Mt Hunka", "altitude": "1867m", "access": null, "description": "South of Mt Gifford", "latlng": [ "-44.740884", "168.057178" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/fiordland/darran-mountains/mt-hunka/gill-houghton", "name": "Gill Houghton", "grade": null, "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "They also made the first crossing from Lake Adelaide to Gunn's Camp." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Mike Gill, Phil Houghton, 1959." } ], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/1865": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/1865", "name": "Pt 1865", "altitude": "1865m", "access": null, "description": null, "latlng": [ "-44.90918097", "168.2389434" ], "routes": [], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/darrans/wick-mountains/basin-pk": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/darrans/wick-mountains/basin-pk", "name": "Basin Pk", "altitude": "1865m", "access": null, "description": "In February 1989 Alan Smith and Greg Hay followed the NE ridge south from Basin Peak all the way to Mackinnon Pass.", "latlng": [ "-44.789669", "167.927071" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/fiordland/wick-mountains/basin-pk/north-east-ridge", "name": "North East Ridge", "grade": null, "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Bob Cuthill, Lloyd Warburton, Bryce Wood, Apr 1956." } ], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/darrans/sheerdown-hills/access-pk": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/darrans/sheerdown-hills/access-pk", "name": "Access Pk", "altitude": "1865m", "access": null, "description": "South of the Milford Road", "latlng": [ "-44.7362277", "167.9158156" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/darrans/sheerdown-hills/access-pk/se-ridge-original-route", "name": "SE Ridge Original Route", "grade": null, "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [], "quality": 1, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Bill Gordon, Gerry Hall-Jones, Lloyd Warburton, Duncan Wilson, 1955." }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/darrans/sheerdown-hills/access-pk/west-ridge", "name": "West Ridge", "grade": null, "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [], "quality": 2, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": "First ascended as part of a long traverse from Ada to Homer Saddle that\nincluded a bivvy near pt1771. A 200m non technical scramble apart from a few\nvery exposed slab moves about halfway up.", "ascent": "Hugh van Noorden, 1985" } ], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aspiring/selborne-range/pt-1864": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aspiring/selborne-range/pt-1864", "name": "Pt 1864", "altitude": "1864m", "access": null, "description": "The top of Presto Spur.", "latlng": null, "routes": [], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/esk-head": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/esk-head", "name": "Esk Head", "altitude": "1864m", "access": null, "description": null, "latlng": [ "-42.86437684", "172.23872259" ], "routes": [], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/mt-harris": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/mt-harris", "name": "Mt Harris", "altitude": "1864m", "access": null, "description": null, "latlng": [ "-44.04727461", "169.03785523" ], "routes": [], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aspiring/selborne-range/mt-selborne": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aspiring/selborne-range/mt-selborne", "name": "Mt Selborne", "altitude": "1864m", "access": null, "description": "Selborne Range", "latlng": [ "-44.01946456", "168.93856686" ], "routes": [], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/mt-franklin-1": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/mt-franklin-1", "name": "Mt Franklin", "altitude": "1862m", "access": null, "description": null, "latlng": [ "-44.0649575", "169.05417159" ], "routes": [], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/mt-jervois": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/mt-jervois", "name": "Mt Jervois", "altitude": "1862m", "access": null, "description": null, "latlng": [ "-42.37358265", "172.54709751" ], "routes": [], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/darrans/darran-mountains/twins": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/darrans/darran-mountains/twins", "name": "The Twins", "altitude": "1861m", "access": null, "description": null, "latlng": [ "-44.715239", "168.015147" ], "routes": [], "places": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/fiordland/darran-mountains/the-twins/east-twin", "name": "East Twin", "altitude": "1861m", "access": null, "description": "tba", "latlng": null, "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/fiordland/darran-mountains/the-twins/east-twin/southeast-ridge", "name": "Southeast Ridge", "grade": null, "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": "Climb the ridge from the 1599m col between the Twins and the Sentinel. First climbed by traversing from the Sentinel.", "ascent": "Lindsay Stewart, Jim Dakin, Jack Warren, December 1936" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/fiordland/darran-mountains/the-twins/east-twin/begg-clark-hudson-wyatt", "name": "Begg Clark Hudson Wyatt", "grade": null, "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": "From the 1599m col between the Sentinel and East Twin make two abseils to the snowfield (often hard snow) below the south face. This route takes the left side of the face for around eight pitches, which are quite grassy and not recommended.", "ascent": "Geoff Wayatt, Calum Hudson, Bruce Clark, Dave Begg, January 1974" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/fiordland/darran-mountains/the-twins/east-twin/silverback-tussock", "name": "Silverback in the Tussock", "grade": "19", "topo_ref": null, "image": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/routes/East%20Twin.jpg?itok=GdBgqkQa", "images": [ { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/routes/East%20Twin.jpg?itok=GdBgqkQa", "height": "325", "width": "244" }, { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/routes/East%20twin%202.jpg?itok=Enf1A1Y9", "height": "325", "width": "244" } ], "length": "350m", "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": "350m", "bolts": null, "trad": true, "ewbank": "19", "description": null } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": true, "description": "An adventurous climb on the south face with some nice pitches of steep climbing on good rock. A mix of cracks and face climbing with cool positive edges, climbed in 7 pitches. Decent protection, though you may have to be a bit creative with digging dirt out of cracks. Double rack from 0.1 \u2013 3 and nuts.\nStart up the chimney feature on the left-hand side of the south face above the glacier. Break right at the end of the chimney and head towards an obvious roof feature above. Traverse left under the roof for 5m and climb up into a beautiful pitch of hand and fist crack climbing. After the crack ends climb the pillar traversing left again under a small rooflet. Continue up the face towards a steep section before gaining a ledge system. From here, traverse 60m left towards the col between the East and West Twin. Can be continued straight up into some wicked looking corner systems towards the summit of East Twin.\nDescend by traversing over East Twin back to the slabs on the north side.", "ascent": "Peter Le, Shane Corbett, Jimmy Keswick, March 2023" } ], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/darrans/darran-mountains/twins/west-twin", "name": "West Twin", "altitude": "1836m", "access": null, "description": "The most straightforward access to the snowfield at the base of the south face and West Ridge is probably by two abseils from the 1599m col between the Sentinel and the Twins. The snowfield reportedly has also been reached by abseiling from the col between the Twins or by traversing over West Twin to the West Ridge and descending a large gully.", "latlng": null, "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/darrans/darran-mountains/twins/west-twin/east-twin", "name": "From East Twin", "grade": null, "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Hamish McInnes, Ken Hamilton, January 1955" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/darrans/darran-mountains/twins/west-twin/denz-herron-judge", "name": "Denz Herron Judge", "grade": "17,III", "topo_ref": "2", "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": "III", "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": "17", "description": null } ], "quality": 2, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": "This route on the south face starts on the left side of the face with one pitch up a left-slanting gully, then follow a line up and right across the face. Good free-climbing for seven or so pitches on excellent rock.", "ascent": "Bill Denz, Phil Herron, Murray Judge, January 1974" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/darrans/darran-mountains/twins/west-twin/west-ridge", "name": "West Ridge", "grade": null, "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": "Mostly straightforward scrambling up the rock ridge from the left-hand side of the snowfield below the South Face of West Twin.", "ascent": "Bill Atkinson, Rick McGregor, 30 January 1975" } ], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] } ], "image": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/wide/public/image/D30.jpg?itok=oJ_oE-Wl", "images": [ { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/wide/public/image/D30.jpg?itok=oJ_oE-Wl", "height": "340", "width": "428" } ] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aspiring/main-divide/mt-stuart": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aspiring/main-divide/mt-stuart", "name": "Mt Stuart", "altitude": "1860m", "access": null, "description": null, "latlng": [ "-44.1078241", "169.25764345" ], "routes": [], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/c58dhau-landsborough/hooker-range/mt-gordon": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/c58dhau-landsborough/hooker-range/mt-gordon", "name": "Mt Gordon", "altitude": "1860m", "access": null, "description": "TBA", "latlng": [ "-43.8222", "169.734" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/westland/hooker-range/mt-gorden/upper-otoko-pass", "name": "From Upper Otoko Pass", "grade": "1", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "1", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": null } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": "A narrow ridge leads from Upper Otoko Pass along the Hooker Range to Mt\nGorden.", "ascent": "Marjorie Edgar-Jones, Gladys Acton-Adams, Frank Alack, TomChristie, March 1935" } ], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/c58dhau-landsborough/hooker-range/mt-gow": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/c58dhau-landsborough/hooker-range/mt-gow", "name": "Mt Gow", "altitude": "1860m", "access": null, "description": "TBA", "latlng": [ "-43.8362", "169.7192" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/westland/hooker-range/mt-gow/mt-gow", "name": "Mt Gow", "grade": "1", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "1", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": null } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": "Just a bump on the ridge from the south, or a desperate lengthy traverse on\nexposed weetbix from Upper Otoko Pass.", "ascent": "Marjorie Edgar-Jones, Gladys Acton-Adams, Frank Alack, Tom Christie, March 1935" } ], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/1860": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/1860", "name": "Pt 1860", "altitude": "1860m", "access": null, "description": null, "latlng": [ "-42.78141985", "172.09797981" ], "routes": [], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/arthurs-pass/st-andrews%E2%80%93poulter-mountains/mt-binser": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/arthurs-pass/st-andrews%E2%80%93poulter-mountains/mt-binser", "name": "Mt Binser", "altitude": "1860m", "access": null, "description": null, "latlng": [ "-43.02685976", "171.85999324" ], "routes": [], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aspiring/marks-range/mt-diomede-east-pk": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aspiring/marks-range/mt-diomede-east-pk", "name": "Mt Diomede East Pk", "altitude": "1860m", "access": null, "description": null, "latlng": [ "-44.00622938", "169.23656097" ], "routes": [], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/fiordland/murchison-mountains/mt-irene": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/fiordland/murchison-mountains/mt-irene", "name": "Mt Irene", "altitude": "1859m", "access": null, "description": "tba", "latlng": [ "-45.17828", "167.35971" ], "routes": [], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/kahurangi/snowdon-range/mt-snowdon": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/kahurangi/snowdon-range/mt-snowdon", "name": "Mt Snowdon", "altitude": "1859m", "access": null, "description": "The highest peak on the Snowdon Range, and in the Tasman Mountains.", "latlng": [ "-41.03493329", "172.60298271" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/kahurangi/snowdon-range/mt-snowdon/snowdon-range-route-grade-1", "name": "Snowdon Range Route Grade 1", "grade": "1", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": "1", "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "Highest peak in the Tasman Mountains, remote and seldom climbed.\r\nTake the poled route from Fenella Hut (12 bunks, serviced) in the head of the Cobb River to Kakapo Peak, then along the long Snowdon Range." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": null } ], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aspiring/matukituki-river-east-branch/sisyphus": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aspiring/matukituki-river-east-branch/sisyphus", "name": "Sisyphus", "altitude": "1859m", "access": null, "description": "Sisyphus, although only a scramble in summer conditions, reigns supreme as the viewpoint of the East Matukituki. An incredible view of Mt Aspiring and all the other big peaks is the prize for climbing this peak. There are three main approaches, the best one being by the West Ridge via Wilmot Saddle and Rainbow Stream.", "latlng": [ "-44.376023", "168.832214" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aspiring/matukituki-river-east-branch/sisyphus/wilmot-saddle", "name": "Via Wilmot Saddle", "grade": "1,I", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": "0m", "pitches": [ { "alpine": "1", "commitment": "I", "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": null } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": "0", "natural_pro": false, "description": "This is the recommended route. Follow up Rainbow Stream from Aspiring Flat to where scree and scrub slopes lead up to Wilmot Saddle (1680m). Stay on the true left of Rainbow Stream until the slopes below Wilmot Saddle ease in steepness. From the saddle follow the West Ridge to the summit.\nRainbow Valley, like most of the valleys of the area, is subject to avalanche danger in the spring and early summer.", "ascent": "Eric Miller, Howard Boddy, Jim Shanks, Robert Pinney, December 1930" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aspiring/matukituki-river-east-branch/sisyphus/south-ridge", "name": "South Ridge", "grade": "II,1", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": "0m", "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": "II", "mtcook": "1", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": null } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": "0", "natural_pro": false, "description": "From Aspiring Flat climb through bush and scrub from near the Rainbow-Kitchener confluence to gain the South Ridge which may then be followed to the summit. See Moir\u2019s Guide North for details of the route to avoid considerable scrub-bashing.", "ascent": null }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aspiring/matukituki-river-east-branch/sisyphus/north-east-slopes", "name": "North East Slopes", "grade": "I,1", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": "0m", "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": "I", "mtcook": "1", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": null } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": "0", "natural_pro": false, "description": "From Ruth Flat climb the bush and tussock slopes on the north-east flank of the peak. The slopes directly below Wilmot Saddle are subject to stonefall and should be avoided.", "ascent": null } ], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/arthurs-pass/mt-aicken": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/arthurs-pass/mt-aicken", "name": "Mt Aicken", "altitude": "1859m", "access": null, "description": null, "latlng": [ "-42.93091349", "171.59498692" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/arthurs-pass/mt-aicken/normal-route", "name": "Normal Route", "grade": "1", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": "1", "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "Easily reached via a steep walking track that commences at the bridge over Devils Punchbowl Creek. Be careful in winter of corniced snow towards the east." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": null }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/arthurs-pass/mt-aicken/no-pants-nathan", "name": "No Pant's Nathan", "grade": "WI4", "topo_ref": null, "image": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/route/image11.jpg?itok=oa0X6aoq", "images": [ { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/route/image11.jpg?itok=oa0X6aoq", "height": "325", "width": "226" } ], "length": "60m", "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": "WI4", "mixed": null, "length": "60m", "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "Located in the north branch of Graham Stream (Otira E2394300 N5806000). Accessible from above via scree into head of stream from the Mt Aicken track, or from below via Graham Stream. Waterfall ice normally begins to form here in late May / early June, though can be very short lived." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Gideon Geerling & Jim Masson 2010" } ], "places": [], "image": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/wide/public/image/mt%20aicken-from%20avalanche%20peak-routemark.JPG?itok=zx5mrWks", "images": [ { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/wide/public/image/mt%20aicken-from%20avalanche%20peak-routemark.JPG?itok=zx5mrWks", "height": "675", "width": "900" } ] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/kahurangi/marino-mountains/mt-bell": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/kahurangi/marino-mountains/mt-bell", "name": "Mt Bell", "altitude": "1857m", "access": "via Granity Pass Hut", "description": "near neighbour of Mt Owen", "latlng": null, "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/kahurangi/marino-mountains/mt-bell/mt-bell", "name": "Mt. Bell", "grade": "1", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": "1", "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "Ascend a gully just west of the hut, and then along scree ridges. Descend via the large scree just south of point 1764m" } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": null } ], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/1856": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/1856", "name": "Pt 1856", "altitude": "1856m", "access": null, "description": null, "latlng": [ "-45.21529636", "168.4089395" ], "routes": [], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/canterbury/wild-mans-brother-range/wild-mans-hill": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/canterbury/wild-mans-brother-range/wild-mans-hill", "name": "Wild Mans Hill", "altitude": "1856m", "access": null, "description": "Wild Mans Brother Range", "latlng": [ "-43.41654619", "171.04991839" ], "routes": [], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/otago/ohau-range/stony-pk": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/otago/ohau-range/stony-pk", "name": "Stony Pk", "altitude": "1854m", "access": null, "description": "TBA", "latlng": [ "-44.3472991449", "169.713508426" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/otago/ohau-range/stony-pk/hideaway-biv-ahuriri", "name": "From Hideaway Biv in the Ahuriri", "grade": "1-", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": null } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": "Head NE from hideaway biv towards the obvious erosion channel caused by water\nand walk up either side of it to gain a flat ridge. Continue following the\nflat ridge NE until you hit a scree climb upwards. Eventually the screen\nchanges from gravel to foot sized rocks. Head towards the rocky outcrop for\nthe summit. Note: Stony Peak is not actually as high as the point a few\nhundred meters to the north over easy ground, but it is actually the correct\nname and place. Consult a topo map for clarification.", "ascent": null } ], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/mt-eglington": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/mt-eglington", "name": "Mt Eglinton", "altitude": "1854m", "access": null, "description": null, "latlng": [ "-45.01777759", "167.97204257" ], "routes": [], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/tara-tama": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/tara-tama", "name": "Tara Tama", "altitude": "1854m", "access": null, "description": null, "latlng": [ "-42.81984048", "171.41376457" ], "routes": [], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/node/4914/red-pk": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/node/4914/red-pk", "name": "Red Pk", "altitude": "1853m", "access": null, "description": null, "latlng": [ "-43.247", "171.799" ], "routes": [], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/1852": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/1852", "name": "Pt 1852", "altitude": "1852m", "access": null, "description": null, "latlng": [ "-45.27859248", "168.41414112" ], "routes": [], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/mt-kruse": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/mt-kruse", "name": "Mt Kruse", "altitude": "1852m", "access": null, "description": null, "latlng": [ "-42.25895169", "172.73579762" ], "routes": [], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/fiordland/earl-mountains/consolation-pk": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/fiordland/earl-mountains/consolation-pk", "name": "Consolation Pk", "altitude": "1851m", "access": null, "description": "Earl Mountains", "latlng": [ "-44.84916126", "168.05501424" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/fiordland/earl-mountains/consolation-pk/original-route", "name": "Original Route", "grade": null, "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Erskine Bowmar, Chally Bowmar, J Dickie, K Cochrane, Dec 1932." } ], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/arthurs-pass/mt-cassidy": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/arthurs-pass/mt-cassidy", "name": "Mt Cassidy", "altitude": "1850m", "access": null, "description": null, "latlng": [ "-42.91617501", "171.58438683" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/arthurs-pass/mt-cassidy/temple-basin", "name": "From Temple Basin", "grade": "1", "topo_ref": "1", "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": "1", "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "Easy climbs from Temple Basin. Follow the Cassidy ski tow to gain the area south of Bill\u2019s Basin." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": null }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/arthurs-pass/mt-cassidy/cons-track", "name": "Via Cons Track", "grade": "1", "topo_ref": "2", "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": "1", "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "Reached via Cons Track, which ascends on the Southwest Ridge from the Bealey River crossing on the Punchbowl Falls track. Once the bushline is reached continue ascending the ridge on loose rock. At the base of the bluffs, a rough trail sidles northwards ascending slowly under the bluffs. After 250 metres a steep scree gully is reached. Ascend this to the easier boulder slopes of the main ridge." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": null } ], "places": [], "image": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/wide/public/image/mt%2520cassidy-from%2520avalanche%2520peak-routemark.jpg?itok=aTQv5Xuf", "images": [ { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/wide/public/image/mt%2520cassidy-from%2520avalanche%2520peak-routemark.jpg?itok=aTQv5Xuf", "height": "675", "width": "900" } ] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aspiring/serpentine-range/ocean-pk": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aspiring/serpentine-range/ocean-pk", "name": "Ocean Pk", "altitude": "1848m", "access": null, "description": null, "latlng": [ "-44.743878", "168.180701" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aspiring/serpentine-range/ocean-pk/standard-route", "name": "Standard Route", "grade": "I,1", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": "I", "mtcook": "1", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "From Harris Saddle." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": null } ], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/1848": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/1848", "name": "Pt 1848", "altitude": "1848m", "access": null, "description": null, "latlng": [ "-44.29442215", "169.34495787" ], "routes": [], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/arthurs-pass/savannah-range/mt-valiant": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/arthurs-pass/savannah-range/mt-valiant", "name": "Mt Valiant", "altitude": "1847m", "access": null, "description": null, "latlng": [ "-42.88687614", "171.77947998" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/arthurs-pass/savannah-range/mt-valiant/hawdon-biv", "name": "From Hawdon Biv", "grade": "1", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": "1", "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "Climbed from the East Branch of the Hawdon River. From the Hawdon Biv follow the spur at the confluence of the streams until clear of the small gorge, then sidle towards the saddle at the head of the valley between the peaks. A return trip from Smooth Peak can be made to the junction of the East Hawdon with the main valley over three higher unnamed peaks." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": null } ], "places": [], "image": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/wide/public/image/1-P5310023.JPG?itok=7tiCV1lr", "images": [ { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/wide/public/image/1-P5310023.JPG?itok=7tiCV1lr", "height": "680", "width": "900" } ] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/darrans/wick-mountains/mt-balloon": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/darrans/wick-mountains/mt-balloon", "name": "Mt Balloon", "altitude": "1847m", "access": null, "description": null, "latlng": [ "-44.79953253", "167.78821427" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/darrans/wick-mountains/mt-balloon/north-ridge", "name": "North Ridge", "grade": "2+,II", "topo_ref": null, "image": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/routes/20221224_063802.jpg?itok=hG2eKxIL", "images": [ { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/routes/20221224_063802.jpg?itok=hG2eKxIL", "height": "244", "width": "325" } ], "length": "0m", "pitches": [ { "alpine": "2+", "commitment": "II", "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": null } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": "0", "natural_pro": false, "description": "Attain Pt 1273m (Jervois Saddle) via a tussock and scrub climb in the Roaring Burn cirque. From there a rocky and exposed scramble up the North Ridge. The rock is solid initially but the quality deteriorates with progress towards the top.", "ascent": "William Grave, Bert Lyttle, Arthur Talbot, January 1911" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/darrans/wick-mountains/mt-balloon/south-east-ridge", "name": "South East Ridge", "grade": null, "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": "1250m", "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": "1250m", "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": null } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": "0", "natural_pro": false, "description": "From Lake Mintaro in the Clinton valley pick a line through bluffs the the southeast ridge, thence to the summit.", "ascent": "K Barraclough, Black, Conway, January 1953" } ], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/nelson-lakes-kaikc58dura/turk-ridge/turk-mountain": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/nelson-lakes-kaikc58dura/turk-ridge/turk-mountain", "name": "Turk Mountain", "altitude": "1846m", "access": null, "description": null, "latlng": [ "-42.0746", "172.8899" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/nelson-lakes-kaik%C5%8Dura/turk-ridge/turk-mountain/hare-creek-routes", "name": "Hare Creek Routes", "grade": "2", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": "2", "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "From the Hydro Rd.\r\nIt\u2019s easy travel up Hare Creek and onto the ridge, just west of Turk Mountain. A short steep rock ridge leads from here to the summit. Alternatively, the undulating east ridge leads to the craggy summit pyramid. It can be gained by easy scree and rock at its eastern end, about 1.6km from the Hare Creek ford." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": null } ], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/1846": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/1846", "name": "Pt 1846", "altitude": "1846m", "access": null, "description": null, "latlng": [ "-42.79143469", "172.0037097" ], "routes": [], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/sutherlands-peak": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sutherlands-peak", "name": "Sutherlands Pk", "altitude": "1846m", "access": null, "description": "Benmore Range", "latlng": [ "-44.39806025", "170.10866866" ], "routes": [], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/westland/butler-range/bamford-knob": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/westland/butler-range/bamford-knob", "name": "Bamford Knob", "altitude": "1845m", "access": null, "description": "na", "latlng": [ "-43.395693", "170.47657" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/westland/butler-range/bamford-knob/north-ridge", "name": "North Ridge", "grade": "1", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "1", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "From the Perth up the spur over Pt 1049 metres to the summit. Mind the scrub \u2013 it\u2019s heinous.\r\nOld maps indicate the peak to be the higher 1901-metre one at the ridge junction, rather than\r\nthe 1845-metre peak currently shown." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "W F Heinz, W Barrowman, D V Apperley and party, March 1937. J Bamford, G Howitt, J R Jackson and I Jeffery also climbed the North Ridge, at Easter 1954, but descended from the peak down Hughes Creek." } ], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/arthurs-pass/poulter-range/gray-hill": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/arthurs-pass/poulter-range/gray-hill", "name": "Gray Hill", "altitude": "1845m", "access": null, "description": null, "latlng": [ "-42.95402267", "171.96307418" ], "routes": [], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/1843": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/1843", "name": "Pt 1843", "altitude": "1843m", "access": null, "description": null, "latlng": [ "-44.79023549", "167.82196736" ], "routes": [], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/darrans/earl-mountains/pt-1843": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/darrans/earl-mountains/pt-1843", "name": "Pt 1843", "altitude": "1843m", "access": null, "description": "Above Mistake Creek.", "latlng": [ "-44.855341", "168.051333" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/darrans/earl-mountains/pt-1843/original-route", "name": "Original Route", "grade": null, "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "Climbed as part of a traverse of the unnamed peaks (Pt 1843 and Pt 1808) located south of Consolation Peak." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Myrtle Emslie, Ralph Miller, December 1954" } ], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/ben-more": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/ben-more", "name": "Ben More", "altitude": "1842m", "access": null, "description": null, "latlng": [ "-44.94908768", "168.53904063" ], "routes": [], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/mt-emerson-south": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/mt-emerson-south", "name": "Mt Emerson", "altitude": "1840m", "access": null, "description": null, "latlng": [ "-42.66743369", "172.27165822" ], "routes": [], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/arthurs-pass/barron-ridge/anderson-pk": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/arthurs-pass/barron-ridge/anderson-pk", "name": "Anderson Pk", "altitude": "1840m", "access": null, "description": "Waimakariri", "latlng": [ "-42.88373166", "171.4906168" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/arthurs-pass/barron-ridge/anderson-pk/from-otira-valley", "name": "From Otira Valley", "grade": "1", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": "1", "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "A long climb that can be done by fit parties in a day from Otira. Follow the Rolleston River Route to where it leaves the scrub and crosses the river. Climb west, to the spur separating the Rolleston River from the stream draining Lake Florence, and sidle towards the saddle above Lake Florence." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": null }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/arthurs-pass/barron-ridge/anderson-pk/via-barron-range", "name": "Via Barron Range", "grade": "1", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": "1", "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "From Mt Barron via the Barron Range takes a good day along a ridgeback that is a minefield of loose rock." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": null }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/arthurs-pass/barron-ridge/anderson-pk/from-mt-armstrong", "name": "From Mt Armstrong", "grade": "1", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": "1", "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "From Mt Armstrong, descend to the col above Lake Florence and continue on to the peak." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": null } ], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/middle-peak": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/middle-peak", "name": "Middle Pk", "altitude": "1837m", "access": null, "description": null, "latlng": [ "-44.77078193", "168.98526261" ], "routes": [], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/darrans/sheerdown-hills/veteran-pk": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/darrans/sheerdown-hills/veteran-pk", "name": "Veteran Pk", "altitude": "1836m", "access": "Traverse from Mt Ada or Access Peak, no known direct access.", "description": "This was the last peak above the Milford road to get a first ascent.", "latlng": [ "-44.736339", "167.908044" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/darrans/sheerdown-hills/veteran-pk/veteran-peak-traverse", "name": "Veteran Peak Traverse", "grade": null, "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [], "quality": 2, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": "Veteran Peak was the last peak above the Milford Road in the Cleddau to get a first ascent. As early as the 1950s local climbers had noticed there was a peak, not visible from the road, on a hard to 'access' section of ridge. Forty years later the first ascent (and traverse) involved two days from Homer Hut,\nand the first full traverse from Ada to Homer Saddle. The west ridge is mainly a walk on solid slabs, the east ridge a steeper scramble.", "ascent": "Hugh Van Noorden, December 1985" } ], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/arthurs-pass/mt-bealey": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/arthurs-pass/mt-bealey", "name": "Mt Bealey", "altitude": "1836m", "access": null, "description": null, "latlng": [ "-42.96650383", "171.54499054" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/arthurs-pass/mt-bealey/mt-bealy-track", "name": "Via Mt Bealy Track", "grade": "1+", "topo_ref": "1", "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "1+", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "Reached via the Mt Bealey Track (commences from Highway 73, just south of the Rough Creek bridge). A good days exercise is to ascend Avalanche Peak, then traverse Lyell Peak to Mt Bealey on their joining ridges. Descend via the Bealey Scree into Rough Creek from Low Bealey (1760m)." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": null }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/arthurs-pass/mt-bealey/rough-creek", "name": "Via Rough Creek", "grade": "1", "topo_ref": "2", "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": "1", "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "Ascend Rough Creek to it\u2019s headwaters, taking the true right stream fork. This leads to an ugly scree slope directly under Mt Bealey. Its true-right arm leads to the saddle between High and Low Bealey, while the true-left joins the Lyell-Bealey Ridge at a steep sided saddle. All summits are easily obtained from these points. Beware that avalanches can roll for 700m down these routes in winter." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": null } ], "places": [], "image": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/wide/public/image/mt%2520bealey-north%2520view-routemark.jpg?itok=9bNOJMc3", "images": [ { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/wide/public/image/mt%2520bealey-north%2520view-routemark.jpg?itok=9bNOJMc3", "height": "675", "width": "900" }, { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/image/Mnt%20Bealey%20from%20Avalanche%20Peak%20Track.JPG?itok=6UKydKCk", "height": "244", "width": "325" } ] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/%C5%8Dhau-landsborough/timaru%E2%80%93lindis-mountains/dingle-pk": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/%C5%8Dhau-landsborough/timaru%E2%80%93lindis-mountains/dingle-pk", "name": "Dingle Pk", "altitude": "1835m", "access": null, "description": null, "latlng": [ "-44.48339", "169.37867" ], "routes": [], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/1835": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/1835", "name": "Pt 1835", "altitude": "1835m", "access": null, "description": null, "latlng": [ "-42.20246027", "173.16470149" ], "routes": [], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/mons-sex-milia": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/mons-sex-milia", "name": "Mons Sex Milia", "altitude": "1835m", "access": null, "description": null, "latlng": [ "-42.53520091", "172.44973341" ], "routes": [], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/lewis-pass-harper-pass/upper-grey%E2%80%93ahaura-mountains/mt-ajax": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/lewis-pass-harper-pass/upper-grey%E2%80%93ahaura-mountains/mt-ajax", "name": "Mt Ajax", "altitude": "1834m", "access": null, "description": null, "latlng": [ "-42.58940291", "172.06667082" ], "routes": [], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/arthurs-pass/avalanche-pk": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/arthurs-pass/avalanche-pk", "name": "Avalanche Pk", "altitude": "1833m", "access": null, "description": null, "latlng": [ "-42.94307243", "171.53610706" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/arthurs-pass/avalanche-pk/crow-valley", "name": "From Crow Valley", "grade": "1", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": "0m", "pitches": [ { "alpine": "1", "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "Easy climb by the scree slide which runs from the valley floor to the main ridge 600m upstream of the hut." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": "0", "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": null }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/arthurs-pass/avalanche-pk/avalanche-peak-track-or-scotts-track", "name": "Via Avalanche Peak Track or Scotts Track", "grade": "1-", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "From Arthur's Pass village, Avalanche Peak can be reached from two directions, either by the Avalanche Peak Track (begins opposite the Public Shelter), or Scotts Track (begins opposite Devils Punchbowl Creek). Both are easy ascents. WARNING: Do not attempt to cross the basins above Avalanche Creek or Rough Creek if there is deep snow. The avalanche danger in both these basins is extreme." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": null } ], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/mt-harper/mahaanui": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/mt-harper/mahaanui", "name": "Mt Harper Mahaanui", "altitude": "1829m", "access": null, "description": null, "latlng": [ "-43.65788208", "171.05206366" ], "routes": [], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/arthurs-pass/main-divide/mt-campbell": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/arthurs-pass/main-divide/mt-campbell", "name": "Mt Campbell", "altitude": "1829m", "access": null, "description": null, "latlng": [ "-42.9355637", "171.43710136" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/arthurs-pass/main-divide/mt-campbell/harman-pass", "name": "From Harman Pass", "grade": "1", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": "1", "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "Easily ascended from Harman Pass.\r\nIt is also possible to follow a route up the scree slide opposite Carrington Hut to the Southern Spur, which then leads to the summit." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": null } ], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/westland/mt-campbell": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/westland/mt-campbell", "name": "Mt Campbell", "altitude": "1828m", "access": null, "description": "Between the Haast and Burke Rivers.", "latlng": [ "-43.989967", "169.256401" ], "routes": [], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/1828": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/1828", "name": "Pt 1828", "altitude": "1828m", "access": null, "description": null, "latlng": [ "-44.81567314", "167.90711682" ], "routes": [], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/arthurs-pass/lyell-pk": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/arthurs-pass/lyell-pk", "name": "Lyell Pk", "altitude": "1828m", "access": null, "description": null, "latlng": [ "-42.95475784", "171.53421879" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/arthurs-pass/lyell-pk/mt-bealey-track", "name": "Via Mt Bealey Track", "grade": "1", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": "1", "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "Reached via the Mt Bealey Track (commences from Highway 73, just south of the Rough Creek bridge). A good days exercise is to ascend Avalanche Peak, then traverse Lyell Peak to Mt Bealey on their joining ridges. Descend via the Bealey Scree into Rough Creek from Low Bealey (1760m)." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": null }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/arthurs-pass/lyell-pk/rough-creek", "name": "Via Rough Creek", "grade": "1", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": "1", "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "Ascend Rough Creek to its headwaters, taking the true right stream fork. This leads to an ugly scree slope directly under Mt Bealey. Its true-right arm leads to the saddle between High and Low Bealey, while the true-left joins the Lyell-Bealey Ridge at a steep sided saddle. All summits are easily obtained from these points. Beware that avalanches can roll for 700m down these routes in winter." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": null } ], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/nelson-lakes-kaik%C5%8Dura/acheron%E2%80%93waihopai-mountains/murphy": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/nelson-lakes-kaik%C5%8Dura/acheron%E2%80%93waihopai-mountains/murphy", "name": "Murphy", "altitude": "1827m", "access": null, "description": null, "latlng": [ "-42.04841714", "173.21869241" ], "routes": [], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/fiordland/darran-mountains/mills-pk": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/fiordland/darran-mountains/mills-pk", "name": "Mills Pk", "altitude": "1825m", "access": null, "description": "Bowen Valley", "latlng": [ "-44.612169", "167.928485" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/fiordland/darran-mountains/mills-pk/south-ridge", "name": "South Ridge:", "grade": null, "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "Posted by stanley on Fri, 2014-01-17 15:19 \r\n\r\n\r\nFull account on my website www.mulvanyadventures.blogspot.com" } ], "quality": 3, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "First ascent on 22-24 November 2013 by Paula Macfarlane, Reece McKenzie and Stanley Mulvany (SSNZAC)" } ], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/arthurs-pass/main-divide/mt-hunt": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/arthurs-pass/main-divide/mt-hunt", "name": "Mt Hunt", "altitude": "1825m", "access": null, "description": null, "latlng": [ "-42.87505206", "171.74656391" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/arthurs-pass/main-divide/mt-hunt/walker-pass", "name": "From Walker Pass", "grade": "1", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": "1", "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "A long climb north along the Main Divide from Walker Pass up rocky gullies and over outcrops. Gendarmes may be turned on the western side." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "D Brough and J P Wilson, December 1930" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/arthurs-pass/main-divide/mt-hunt/trudge-col", "name": "From Trudge Col", "grade": "1", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": "1", "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "Climbed from Trudge Col at the head of the Hawdon Valley (Grade 1+). \r\nA traverse between Rugged Peak and Smooth Peak includes a steep gap in the ridge (Grade 2-)." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": null } ], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/mt-danger": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/mt-danger", "name": "Mt Danger", "altitude": "1825m", "access": null, "description": null, "latlng": [ "-44.69459386", "167.76090821" ], "routes": [], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/fiordland/darran-mountains/benton-pk": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/fiordland/darran-mountains/benton-pk", "name": "Benton Pk", "altitude": "1823m", "access": null, "description": "Bowen Valley", "latlng": [ "-44.608381", "167.92694" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/fiordland/darran-mountains/benton-pk/north-ridge", "name": "North Ridge", "grade": null, "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "Climb from the Harrison, then along the ridge to the high peak of Benton." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Jack Ede, Leo Faigan, Roland Rodda, Dec 1946." }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/fiordland/darran-mountains/benton-pk/south-ridge", "name": "South Ridge", "grade": null, "topo_ref": null, "image": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/routes/A6023B7D-409B-4B05-90EB-501A0B9108CF.jpeg?itok=-jogAdsU", "images": [ { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/routes/A6023B7D-409B-4B05-90EB-501A0B9108CF.jpeg?itok=-jogAdsU", "height": "325", "width": "244" } ], "length": null, "pitches": [], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": "Short hike along loose rock ridge from Mills to Benton. Came from camp just north of Cascade Peak reached from Bowen river as per route for Mills.", "ascent": "December 2020" } ], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/fiordland/countess-range/countess-pk": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/fiordland/countess-range/countess-pk", "name": "Countess Pk", "altitude": "1823m", "access": null, "description": "Above the Eglinton River.", "latlng": [ "-45.09381653", "168.0418282" ], "routes": [], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/totara-peak": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/totara-peak", "name": "Totara Pk", "altitude": "1822m", "access": null, "description": null, "latlng": [ "-44.48152898", "170.13353574" ], "routes": [], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/mt-stephenson": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/mt-stephenson", "name": "Mt Stephenson", "altitude": "1821m", "access": null, "description": null, "latlng": [ "-43.8518158", "169.39317544" ], "routes": [], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/fiordland/sheerdown-hills/odyssey-pk": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/fiordland/sheerdown-hills/odyssey-pk", "name": "Odyssey Pk", "altitude": "1821m", "access": null, "description": "South of the Milford Road", "latlng": [ "-44.71525", "167.898049" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/fiordland/sheerdown-hills/odyssey-pk/south-east-buttress", "name": "South East Buttress", "grade": null, "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "Climb the cirque wall under Ada Peak and traverse north to the foot of the South East Buttress, which is followed to the summit." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Merv English, Murray Jones, Mar 1977." }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/fiordland/sheerdown-hills/odyssey-pk/west-buttress", "name": "West Buttress", "grade": null, "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "Climb a buttress on the west side and traverse to Lake Ada." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Noel Dunlop, Chris Gee, B McNaughton, Jan 1961." } ], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/fiordland/arthur-river/lady-of-the-snows": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/fiordland/arthur-river/lady-of-the-snows", "name": "Lady of the Snows", "altitude": "1818m", "access": null, "description": "West of Arthur River.", "latlng": [ "-44.72026857", "167.73078117" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/fiordland/arthur-river/lady-of-the-snows/north-face-diamond-creek", "name": "North Face from Diamond Creek", "grade": "1,III", "topo_ref": "CB08 827 346", "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": "1", "commitment": "III", "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "From the waterfalls where the land becomes steep and scrubby at the head of Diamond Creek, head straight up on a bearing of more-or-less west. As you get above the scrub, bearing of more-or-less west. You will pass the steep gully used by Rhys Buckingham, but instead of going up here, continue to climb west, curving south as the ground steepens to bluffs further west. As you work south, stay reasonably close to the bluffs until a rocky, tussocky shelf with tarns is reached west of pt 1189. This area offers good camping.\r\n\r\nBetween this shelf and the rock slopes and snowfields below Lady Of The Snows lies a bluff probably 60-80m high. Most parties will require a rope for at least part of this bluff. Roughly speaking, the route up the bluff involves heading up to a somewhat vegetated ledge to true right of one of the falls closest to the true left of the bluff. The route then sidles along this ledge before reaching a point where it is necessary to walk through the waterfall. The climb immediately on the true left of the waterfall is where our party required the rope for a pitch of perhaps 10 or 15 metres. The north face of Lady Of The Snows can be climbed in about 25 minutes from the uppermost point of the snowfields below her summit, although this route can require some fairly steep clambering." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": null }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/fiordland/arthur-river/lady-snows/ladys-daughter", "name": "The Lady's Daughter", "grade": "16", "topo_ref": null, "image": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/2024-04/IMG_20240331_210822.JPG?itok=TBtWsluL", "images": [ { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/2024-04/IMG_20240331_210822.JPG?itok=TBtWsluL", "height": "325", "width": "244" } ], "length": "200m", "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": "200m", "bolts": null, "trad": true, "ewbank": "16", "description": "3-4 grade 16/17 pitches were used" } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": "0", "natural_pro": true, "description": "3-4 30m pitches of grade 16 rock climbing. One 5m chimney to get through. The summit in the photo is a false summit, the true summit is 100m along the ridgeline which we shortroped. Required 4 rappels back down.", "ascent": "Finnley Ross and Ronan Scott 24/03/2024" } ], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/mt-freyberg": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/mt-freyberg", "name": "Mt Freyberg", "altitude": "1817m", "access": null, "description": null, "latlng": [ "-42.33947128", "172.37988131" ], "routes": [], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/1815": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/1815", "name": "Pt 1815", "altitude": "1815m", "access": null, "description": null, "latlng": [ "-42.74469713", "171.91407718" ], "routes": [], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/c58dhau-landsborough/paringa-moeraki-mountains/eureka": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/c58dhau-landsborough/paringa-moeraki-mountains/eureka", "name": "Eureka", "altitude": "1815m", "access": null, "description": null, "latlng": [ "-43.83935491", "169.48477933" ], "routes": [], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aspiring/wilkin-river/mt-perseus": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aspiring/wilkin-river/mt-perseus", "name": "Mt Perseus", "altitude": "1815m", "access": null, "description": null, "latlng": [ "-44.26004369", "168.9154694" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aspiring/wilkin-river/mt-perseus/top-forks", "name": "From Top Forks", "grade": null, "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "From Top Forks, take the leading ridge. The ridge can also be gained via a \r\n\r\nprominent gully across the North Branch from Lake Diana. Perseus has also been climbed from the hanging valley to the east." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "J D Hanning, Dec 1945." } ], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aspiring/ailsa-mountains/emily-pk": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aspiring/ailsa-mountains/emily-pk", "name": "Emily Pk", "altitude": "1815m", "access": null, "description": "Emily Peak can be reached from either the Routeburn Flats, Lake Mackenzie, or the head of Fraser Creek.", "latlng": [ "-44.74533116", "168.20493221" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aspiring/ailsa-mountains/emily-pk/north-west-ridge", "name": "North West Ridge", "grade": "1,II", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": "1", "commitment": "II", "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": null } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": "From the Emily Creek bridge on the Routeburn track follow the straight rocky gully to the southwest. This is the furthest true left gully of several creeks shown on the map that join Emily Creek above the bridge. Straightforward boulder travel leads to the 1200m contour. Here, leave the stream and sidle into the snowgrass basin, climbing to Emily Pass (1607m), the northern of two rocky guts right of Emily Peak.\nFrom Lake McKenzie travel to Emily Pass is straightforward via \"Split Rock Track\" and then gravelbeds on the true left.\nHead up from Emily Pass towards the wall of the North West Ridge, at which point a proper rock climb ensues. The technical difficulty is low, but the exposure can be as much as 200m+ and isn't for the inexperienced or faint hearted without rope. The rock can be loose and rock fall is heard frequently on the surrounding peaks.", "ascent": null }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aspiring/ailsa-mountains/emily-pk/wuthering-heights-west-face", "name": "Wuthering Heights (West Face)", "grade": "16", "topo_ref": null, "image": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/route/10003526_386160438190979_1596860224_n.jpg?itok=dZ3VsJC8", "images": [ { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/route/10003526_386160438190979_1596860224_n.jpg?itok=dZ3VsJC8", "height": "325", "width": "244" } ], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": true, "ewbank": "16", "description": "Goes to the left of the right skyline. It is about grade 16. But on very compact rock with few anchors. The west face has tonnes of potential for other, harder, routes but it would need bolts as there are few opportunities for gear. The rock is simply stunning." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": true, "description": null, "ascent": "Derek Chinn, Martin Hawes, 2014" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aspiring/ailsa-mountains/emily-pk/east-ridge", "name": "East Ridge", "grade": "I,1", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": "I", "mtcook": "1", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "" } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": "From the Emily Creek bridge on the Routeburn track follow the straight rocky gully to the southwest. This is the furthest true left gully of several creeks shown on the map that join Emily Creek above the bridge. Straightforward boulder travel leads to the 1200m contour. Here, leave the stream and sidle into the snowgrass basin, climbing to the col at 1544 metres (Fraser Col). From the col follow the ridge to the summit.", "ascent": null } ], "places": [], "image": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/wide/public/image/1-P9240162.JPG?itok=4bTsktuS", "images": [ { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/wide/public/image/1-P9240162.JPG?itok=4bTsktuS", "height": "675", "width": "900" } ] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/canterbury-westland-alps/diedrichs-range/mt-oconnor": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/canterbury-westland-alps/diedrichs-range/mt-oconnor", "name": "Mt O\u2019Connor", "altitude": "1814m", "access": null, "description": "The highest point on the Diedrich Range.", "latlng": [ "-42.99592712", "171.09521235" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/mt-oefbe92connor/diedrichs-range-traverse", "name": "Diedrichs Range Traverse", "grade": "1,I", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": "0m", "pitches": [ { "alpine": "1", "commitment": "I", "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": null } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": "0", "natural_pro": false, "description": "From below Squall Peak, sidle through basins east of Jumble Top. Some looking around will be necessary to bypass bluffs, particularly on the south side of Jumble Creek but routes exist. The range itself at the top of this bluffline is also steep and exposed. An alternative bypass exists via upper Diedrichs Creek and a fork at 1140 metres, returning to the range just north of Pt 1610 metres. More detail can be found if needed on remotehuts.co.nz.\nSo long as the weather is fine, the range is now easily traversed over Mt O\u2019Connor to Pt 1718 metres. Bert Cropp and D Heinz climbed Mt O\u2019Connor from the Toaroha (the first known ascent) in April 1935.\nThe range crest gets gnarly between here and Mt Ross but difficulties can be bypassed via Darby Creek. Either climb out of Darby Creek at the 1400-metre contour to reach the north-west ridge of Mt Ross at 1560 metres or go further down and climb up to Pt 1524 metres. From Mt Ross, descend along the tussock range to Toaroha Saddle, a natural place to finish the traverse.", "ascent": "Bert Cropp, D Heinz (climbed Mt O\u2019Connor from the Toaroha), April 1935" } ], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/darrans/earl-mountains/skelmorlie-pk": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/darrans/earl-mountains/skelmorlie-pk", "name": "Skelmorlie Pk", "altitude": "1814m", "access": null, "description": null, "latlng": [ "-44.94688986", "167.95911976" ], "routes": [], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/1812": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/1812", "name": "Pt 1812", "altitude": "1812m", "access": null, "description": null, "latlng": [ "-45.18410875", "168.53375029" ], "routes": [], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/darrans/wick-mountains/moirs-mate": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/darrans/wick-mountains/moirs-mate", "name": "Moir's Mate", "altitude": "1811m", "access": "Take the track to Homer Saddle from the tunnel, then follow the ridge to Moir for about 45 minutes to an hour.\nTo find the track to the saddle, walk through the boulder field until directly below the saddle (don't try to traverse up directly from the tunnel).\nDescent of Moir\u2019s Mate.\nFrom the summit of Moir\u2019s Mate scramble down ledges on the north side until stopped by steep ground where the slabs join the Homer Ridge. Two or three abseils to the scree slopes below the west face of Moir\u2019s Mate depending on the amount of down climbing you wish to do. Careful with rope jam on the initial abseil.", "description": "The routes on Moir\u2019s Mate are accessible as day climbs from Homer Hut.", "latlng": [ "-44.767396", "167.980189" ], "routes": [], "places": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/fiordland/wick-mountains/moirs-mate/diamond-face", "name": "Diamond Face", "altitude": null, "access": null, "description": "tba", "latlng": null, "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/fiordland/wick-mountains/moirs-mate/diamond-face/mcgregor-mcgregor-terpstra", "name": "McGregor McGregor Terpstra", "grade": "16", "topo_ref": "1", "image": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/2024-07/RickMcG_JudithTerpstra_FA_left_of_MoirsMate_dec74_PeterMcG_RGD1311cww.jpg?itok=ZlwHxcwI", "images": [ { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/2024-07/RickMcG_JudithTerpstra_FA_left_of_MoirsMate_dec74_PeterMcG_RGD1311cww.jpg?itok=ZlwHxcwI", "height": "325", "width": "324" } ], "length": "120m", "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": "40m", "bolts": null, "trad": true, "ewbank": "13", "description": "First corner to right of slabs on Homer Ridge step. Follow a shallow groove just right of the ridge. Climb corner past bulge at 13m, over a small overlap and into a scoop at 30m. Layback on a small rib to the right to a second scoop just above. Belay (or continue up right to a sloping ledge below an overhang.)\r\nThe crack system branches here." }, { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": "40m", "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": "16", "description": "Take the right branch and climb to sloping ledge below an overhang. Climb the overhang, then traverse left across a slab (crux, 16) to gain a spike in the lefthand crack. Climb the groove above (poorly protected for the first 25m) to a largish sloping grassy ledge." }, { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": "40m", "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": "16", "description": "Continue up the groove until faced with a blankish slab. Traverse a short distance left to beneath a small bulge. Make an awkward pull-up over the bulge (16) then continue up easy slab above trending right over a rounded rib to a groove and belay ledge/foothold. \r\nUnrope at pedestal top a few metres further up.\r\nDescend by downclimbing or abseiling Homer Ridge." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": "0", "natural_pro": true, "description": null, "ascent": "Rick McGregor (all leads), Peter McGregor, Judith Terpstra, 24 December 1974" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/fiordland/wick-mountains/moirs-mate/diamond-face/keas-and-car-thieves", "name": "Keas and Car Thieves", "grade": "18", "topo_ref": "2", "image": null, "images": [], "length": "130m", "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": "35m", "bolts": null, "trad": true, "ewbank": "17", "description": "Start below the groove left of Strobe Light and follow an easy ramp to the bottom of the groove. Climb the groove, first left then right to belay at a patch of grass." }, { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": "45m", "bolts": null, "trad": true, "ewbank": "18", "description": "Follow the easy ramp left until just before the groove on McGregor route. Go directly up the wall above, first right then left. Belay in the groove on MMT below two parallel grooves." }, { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": "50m", "bolts": null, "trad": true, "ewbank": "16", "description": "Follow right groove until it ends, then directly up slab to easy ground." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": true, "description": null, "ascent": "Paul Drew, Anjali Pande, Jan 1998." }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/fiordland/wick-mountains/moirs-mate/diamond-face/strobe-light", "name": "Strobe Light", "grade": "21", "topo_ref": "3", "image": null, "images": [], "length": "140m", "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": "30m", "bolts": null, "trad": true, "ewbank": "21", "description": "The large right to left crack system on the left of the Diamond Face. Scramble 15-20m up ledges to start.\r\nFollow initial crack, then step left to a delicate traverse below corner before regaining left-tending crack." }, { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": "35m", "bolts": null, "trad": true, "ewbank": "20", "description": "Move up, taking either of the two right-tending cracks." }, { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": "40m", "bolts": null, "trad": true, "ewbank": "17", "description": "Continue up through obvious crack system." }, { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": "35m", "bolts": null, "trad": true, "ewbank": "15", "description": "Scramble over to the slabs on the northern slopes." } ], "quality": 2, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": true, "description": null, "ascent": "John Dale, Nigel Perry, 1982." }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/fiordland/wick-mountains/moirs-mate/diamond-face/rough-diamond", "name": "Rough Diamond", "grade": "21", "topo_ref": "4", "image": null, "images": [], "length": "117m", "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": "30m", "bolts": null, "trad": true, "ewbank": "20", "description": "Up easy diagonal slabs to a bolt, which signals the start of the route.\r\nGain crack system on right of bolt. Follow for 20m before moving right five metres to hidden anchors." }, { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": "15m", "bolts": null, "trad": true, "ewbank": "16", "description": "Moves up past four bolts and rap anchors to belay out left." }, { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": "25m", "bolts": null, "trad": true, "ewbank": "21", "description": "After second bolt go right to a layaway flake, up then back left to clip third bolt." }, { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": "12m", "bolts": null, "trad": true, "ewbank": "19", "description": "Follow crack through overlap then head straight up and left. Avoid belaying on rap bolt, but move higher onto broken ledges." }, { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": "35m", "bolts": null, "trad": true, "ewbank": "21", "description": "Follow line up slabby rib, moving right after fifth bolt." } ], "quality": 2, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": true, "description": null, "ascent": "Sam Brooks, Murray Judge, Andrew Macfarlane, David Stevens, Dec 1999." }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/fiordland/wick-mountains/moirs-mate/diamond-face/uncut-gem", "name": "Uncut Gem", "grade": "21", "topo_ref": "5", "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": true, "ewbank": "21", "description": "A variation of Rough Diamond, joining it at the third pitch.\r\n Climb initial RD crack for 20m but then continue up instead of stepping right." }, { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": true, "ewbank": "19", "description": "Follow grooves and corners before trending right rejoining Rough Diamond." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": true, "description": null, "ascent": "Marty Beare, Stu Allan, 2002" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/fiordland/wick-mountains/moirs-mate/diamond-face/garden-trowel-route", "name": "Garden Trowel Route", "grade": "19", "topo_ref": "6", "image": null, "images": [], "length": "120m", "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": "40m", "bolts": null, "trad": true, "ewbank": "18", "description": "The line tackles the steep overlaps on the lower right side of the Diamond Face before moving up a steep wall to the start of the Bowen Allan corner. \r\nFollow an initial left facing corner in the centre of the overlaps passing to the left of a prominent horn, moving back right along a weakness then up to a shallow groove and belay." }, { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": "45m", "bolts": null, "trad": true, "ewbank": "19", "description": "Follow right-hand corner onto a steep and eerie ramp that leads to a 15m face; head for a body size groove then great fist jamming out and over the bulge. Step right for belay under roofs." }, { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": "35m", "bolts": null, "trad": true, "ewbank": "17", "description": "Move up and right into V groove for 10m, then trend right on broken ground to the base of the Bowen Allan Corner." } ], "quality": 3, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": true, "description": null, "ascent": "John Barnett, Al Hay, Galen Rowell, Jan 1977." }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/fiordland/wick-mountains/moirs-mate/diamond-face/garden-trowel-direct", "name": "Garden Trowel Direct", "grade": "21", "topo_ref": "7", "image": null, "images": [], "length": "162m", "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": "40m", "bolts": null, "trad": true, "ewbank": "20", "description": "The original line has been straightened out by taking a direct start to the right of the original corners and finishing up a beautiful prow on the right side of the Diamond Face. One of the cleanest and most sustained routes on the Mate.\r\nScramble up right-tending ramp towards the right side of the overlaps. Work your way through overlaps to a steep left-tending crack, then right onto ledge and spike belay. The move into the steep left-trending corner is very committing and can be avoided by stepping round to the left." }, { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": "45m", "bolts": null, "trad": true, "ewbank": "21", "description": "Move right for five metres to the base of a steep face. Climb the face to meet the second pitch of the GTR." }, { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": "35m", "bolts": null, "trad": true, "ewbank": "17", "description": "Move up and right into V-groove for 15m, then trend left along a ramp, scrambling as high as possible until the last headwall is gained." }, { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": "30m", "bolts": null, "trad": true, "ewbank": "19", "description": "Climb cracks splitting the centre of a prow then right to slabby country and fine crystalline climbing." }, { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": "12m", "bolts": null, "trad": true, "ewbank": "15", "description": "Move up and right to small notch and ramp system leading to descent route." } ], "quality": 3, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": true, "description": null, "ascent": "Guy Cotter, Nick Cradock, 1980s" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/fiordland/wick-mountains/moirs-mate/diamond-face/brain-dynamics", "name": "Brain Dynamics", "grade": "24", "topo_ref": "8", "image": null, "images": [], "length": "90m", "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": "40m", "bolts": null, "trad": true, "ewbank": "18", "description": "A two pitch variation to the Garden Trowel Route, tackling the steep wall and overlap directly above the first pitch.\r\n Pitch one as for GTR. Belay on slab at base of Diamond Face; single bolt augments natural pro belay. \r\nFollow an initial left facing corner in the centre of the overlaps passing to the left of a prominent horn, moving back right along a weakness then up to a shallow groove and belay." }, { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": "25m", "bolts": "1", "trad": true, "ewbank": "21", "description": "Take highest ramp on right until bridging the large corner. Clip bolt on face and move left into hand crack and up past flakes to bolt belay." }, { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": "25m", "bolts": "4", "trad": false, "ewbank": "24", "description": "Tackle flake directly above belay before moving up and rightwards past two bolts into corner below roof. Bridge the corner and clip the bolt overhead before moving leftwards along the line of the roof. Exit up parallel cracks to bolt belay on large block below the prow of GTD. Immaculate rock." } ], "quality": 2, "bolts": "4", "natural_pro": true, "description": null, "ascent": "Steve Carr, Jonathon Clearwater, Jan 2005." }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/fiordland/wick-mountains/moirs-mate/diamond-face/snake-gully", "name": "Snake Gully", "grade": "18", "topo_ref": "9", "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": true, "ewbank": "18", "description": "Three pitches. 16, 18, 16. Start on the grassy slabs to the right of the Diamond Face and follow slabs trending up and right to the base of the Bowen Allan Corner. Good climbing on pitches two and three." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": true, "description": null, "ascent": "Neal Mathieson, Hugh Widdowson, Dec 1988." }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/fiordland/wick-mountains/moirs-mate/diamond-face/bowen-allan-corner", "name": "Bowen Allan Corner", "grade": "17", "topo_ref": "10", "image": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/route/Moirsmate-web.jpg?itok=NpOp6pRj", "images": [ { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/route/Moirsmate-web.jpg?itok=NpOp6pRj", "height": "325", "width": "225" } ], "length": "305m", "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": "45m", "bolts": null, "trad": true, "ewbank": "16", "description": "Starting on the right-hand end of the slabs, climb the first left-facing corner system to a large spike belay (slings can usually be seen from the ground)." }, { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": "40m", "bolts": null, "trad": true, "ewbank": "14", "description": "Step left and up a weakness to the first grassy ledge system. Right along this for ten metres until a left-tending corner can be climbed to a belay." }, { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": "30m", "bolts": null, "trad": true, "ewbank": "17", "description": "Continue up, tending left to gain a narrow horizontal ledge that leads leftwards across the face." }, { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": "45m", "bolts": null, "trad": true, "ewbank": "12", "description": "Traverse easily left along ledge and belay before ledge turns into slabs." }, { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": "30m", "bolts": null, "trad": true, "ewbank": "16", "description": "Traverse left across slabs (initially down before up and left) to grassy ledge and stance below groove/left facing corner." }, { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": "50m", "bolts": null, "trad": true, "ewbank": "16", "description": "Up corner then left across slabs, tricky moves lead to base of Bowen Allan corner." }, { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": "35m", "bolts": null, "trad": true, "ewbank": "17", "description": "Climb corner to belay under large roof." }, { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": "30m", "bolts": null, "trad": true, "ewbank": "17", "description": "Turn roof via face on right, onto slab above and then up awkward flaring chimney. Finish up crack on right or escape out left. There are three alternative finishes to the Bowen Allan Corner, all of which take lines up the beautiful grey slab: the crack on the left, Geoff's Crack, 17; Between the Lines, 18, which takes the wall between the cracks and contains two bolts; and the Hugh Widdowson Crack, 18." } ], "quality": 2, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": true, "description": "A Darrans classic due to the combination of slabs and tussock low down, and stupendous crack and corner climbing higher on the face.", "ascent": "Stu Allan, John Bowen, 1972" } ], "places": [], "image": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/wide/public/image/Diamond%20face.jpg?itok=TV9hfnmc", "images": [ { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/wide/public/image/Diamond%20face.jpg?itok=TV9hfnmc", "height": "636", "width": "900" }, { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/image/Bowen-Allan-Moirsmate.png?itok=spvHmQGx", "height": "325", "width": "216" } ] }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/fiordland/wick-mountains/moirs-mate/west-face", "name": "West Face", "altitude": null, "access": null, "description": "The following climbs lie in the central area of Moir\u2019s Mate and use either the initial pitches of the Bowen Allan Corner or corners further right to gain some broken ledges which signal the start of these routes.", "latlng": null, "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/fiordland/wick-mountains/moirs-mate/west-face/central-line", "name": "Central Line", "grade": "18", "topo_ref": "11", "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": true, "ewbank": "18", "description": "Move left beyond the broken ledges before straightening. Continue up the left side of the headwall; the crux pitch is an off-width below the overhangs, then right past the roofs finishing with an excellent pitch up the split headwall crack." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": true, "description": null, "ascent": "Murray Jones, Keith Nannery, Jan 1969." }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/fiordland/wick-mountains/moirs-mate/west-face/moirs-mate", "name": "Moir's Mate", "grade": "IV,WI4", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": "IV", "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": "WI4", "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "Climb the layback first pitch of the Central Route then trend up and right to finish via the top of the Fantini Coradine. \r\n\r\n\"The climbing was not all that hard but required quite a lot of care here and there due to cold hands and little icy bits. For most of the climb protection was about the same as summer...used a couple of pegs in this pre-Friends era. On the top couple of pitches a Southerly front hit us, these pitches were dangerous, though not hard they iced quickly and there was no pro, no belays and the climbing became a bit subtle. Judy actually untied from the rope while I led the last pitch!\" Merv English" } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Merv English, Judith Terpstra, 1974." }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/fiordland/wick-mountains/moirs-mate/west-face/english-fearnley-hudson", "name": "English Fearnley Hudson", "grade": "20", "topo_ref": "12", "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": true, "ewbank": "20", "description": "Start as for the Central Line, but turns right under the overhangs which cut the top slabs then up a steep fingery crack in the overhanging wall, crux 20. Continue up V groove to top." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": true, "description": null, "ascent": "Merv English, Dave Fearnley, Calum Hudson, 1983." }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/fiordland/wick-mountains/moirs-mate/west-face/fantini-coradine", "name": "Fantini Coradine", "grade": "17", "topo_ref": "13", "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": true, "ewbank": "17", "description": "Starting at the broken ledges, traverse right into a corner system which leads to a delicate left slanting slab. Climb the slab (crux) then a 20 metre abseil down and left before climbing into a gully towards the prominent overhang. Move out right below the overhang then to the summit." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": true, "description": null, "ascent": "Paul Coradine, John Fantini, 1970." }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/fiordland/wick-mountains/moirs-mate/west-face/orthopod", "name": "Orthopod", "grade": "18", "topo_ref": "14", "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": "18", "description": "From the skyhook move, on the Fantini Coradine line. Up and right two rope-lengths." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Robin McNeill, Hugh Van Noorden, 1985." }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/fiordland/wick-mountains/moirs-mate/west-face/red-zinger", "name": "Red Zinger", "grade": "19", "topo_ref": "15", "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": true, "ewbank": "19", "description": "A direct finishe above the skyhook move on the Fantini Coradine line" } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": true, "description": null, "ascent": "Neal Mathieson, Hugh Widdowson, 1988." }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/fiordland/wick-mountains/moirs-mate/west-face/pipe-dreams", "name": "Pipe Dreams", "grade": "21", "topo_ref": null, "image": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/route/980723_10153991222036873_3715259168184688434_o.jpeg?itok=0T3o0mTk", "images": [ { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/route/980723_10153991222036873_3715259168184688434_o.jpeg?itok=0T3o0mTk", "height": "325", "width": "235" } ], "length": "302m", "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": "30m", "bolts": "3", "trad": true, "ewbank": "16", "description": "Slab Climbing" }, { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": "32m", "bolts": null, "trad": true, "ewbank": "18", "description": "Steepening cracks" }, { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": "30m", "bolts": "2", "trad": true, "ewbank": "20", "description": "Corner to slab" }, { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": "30m", "bolts": "3", "trad": true, "ewbank": "14", "description": "Scramble up" }, { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": "30m", "bolts": null, "trad": true, "ewbank": "21", "description": "Corner, small roof, layback" }, { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": "30m", "bolts": null, "trad": true, "ewbank": "21", "description": "Continue up corner" }, { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": "30m", "bolts": "7", "trad": true, "ewbank": "21", "description": "Slab climbing, left of the big block, then back right." }, { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": "30m", "bolts": null, "trad": true, "ewbank": "18", "description": "Up left facing corners" }, { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": "30m", "bolts": null, "trad": true, "ewbank": "21", "description": "Steep crack through upper headwall" }, { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": "30m", "bolts": "4", "trad": true, "ewbank": "20", "description": "Slab climbing through upper headwall." } ], "quality": 3, "bolts": "7", "natural_pro": true, "description": "Right of BAC left of FK\nA high quality route, some sections may have be climbed before.\nRecommend, rap from the top, 30m, 60m, 30m, 60m, 60m, 60m.", "ascent": "Dave Shotwell, Nick Cradock, Jonathan Gillan 2016" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/fiordland/wick-mountains/moirs-mate/west-face/finders-keepers", "name": "Finders Keepers", "grade": "22", "topo_ref": null, "image": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/route/Finders%20Keep.jpg?itok=3Tp0XAtV", "images": [ { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/route/Finders%20Keep.jpg?itok=3Tp0XAtV", "height": "325", "width": "228" } ], "length": "280m", "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": "25m", "bolts": "4", "trad": true, "ewbank": "15", "description": "Start 50m right of BA Cnr. Bolt at start of rte. Initialed (FK)" }, { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": "30m", "bolts": "3", "trad": true, "ewbank": "19", "description": null }, { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": "30m", "bolts": "3", "trad": true, "ewbank": "18", "description": null }, { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": "60m", "bolts": null, "trad": true, "ewbank": "12", "description": "Pitches 4&5.Scrambling on good rock with DBB in between to big ledge & Trad belay." }, { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": "20m", "bolts": "4", "trad": true, "ewbank": "22", "description": "or climb optional corner (17)" }, { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": "25m", "bolts": "5", "trad": true, "ewbank": "21", "description": null }, { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": "30m", "bolts": "4", "trad": true, "ewbank": "21", "description": null }, { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": "30m", "bolts": "2", "trad": true, "ewbank": "21", "description": null }, { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": "30m", "bolts": null, "trad": true, "ewbank": "21", "description": null } ], "quality": 3, "bolts": "5", "natural_pro": true, "description": "The \"Lucky Strike\" of trad climbing. Excellent rock & gear, sustained climbing. Topo attached to the climb description.\nEquipment: 2x 50m ropes, rack of wires down to #RP, Camalots, C3- #3(blue), double up on 0.5 & 0.75 + 12 draws inc extenders. All belays equipped with abseil rings.", "ascent": "Murray Ball, Nick Cradock, Dave Shotwell, 2013" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/fiordland/wick-mountains/moirs-mate/west-face/lucky-strike", "name": "Lucky Strike", "grade": "20", "topo_ref": null, "image": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/route/Lucky_Strike_1%5B1%5D.jpg?itok=WlM4DoDj", "images": [ { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/route/Lucky_Strike_1%5B1%5D.jpg?itok=WlM4DoDj", "height": "325", "width": "230" } ], "length": "275m", "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": "55m", "bolts": "9", "trad": true, "ewbank": "18", "description": "Start 150 metres right of the Bowen Allan Corner. Access via a good ledge slightly further right. Bolts and natural pro. It\u2019s possible to belay at the seventh bolt, with a cam, to reduce drag and increase visibility." }, { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": "45m", "bolts": "11", "trad": false, "ewbank": "18", "description": null }, { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": "30m", "bolts": "9", "trad": false, "ewbank": "18", "description": "Follow the bolts left, then back right." }, { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": "45m", "bolts": "9", "trad": true, "ewbank": "19", "description": "Bolts to a steep section, then some natural pro." }, { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": "25m", "bolts": "8", "trad": false, "ewbank": "20", "description": null }, { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": "25m", "bolts": "9", "trad": true, "ewbank": "20", "description": "Some natural pro." }, { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": "50m", "bolts": null, "trad": true, "ewbank": "13", "description": "Climb 15 metres to where a dyke leads right to the top of the Mates Little Brother, or continue up to a belay station." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": "11", "natural_pro": true, "description": "The original topo is attached, click on Lucky Strike.\nA quality route, well equipped with bolts, climbing the buttress on the\nright-hand side of the Mate. Seven pitches (280m), plus an optional further\npitch to the ridge and a scramble to the summit. Take 2 x 50m ropes, a small\nrack of medium wires, cams to hand size and a dozen quickdraws. Abseil\ndescent is best.", "ascent": "Murray Ball, Nick Cradock, David Shotwell, February 2010" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/fiordland/wick-mountains/moirs-mate/west-face/shot-dark", "name": "Shot in the Dark", "grade": "24", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": true, "ewbank": "24", "description": null } ], "quality": 2, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": true, "description": "A six pitch affair ranging in difficulty from grade 17 to 24. Nick comments that the one grade 24 pitch is an \u2018absolute stunner\u2019 and that a good rack is required.", "ascent": "Dave Shotwell, Nick Cradock, Murray Ball, 2012" } ], "places": [], "image": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/wide/public/image/D16.jpg?itok=Gik6C2dI", "images": [ { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/wide/public/image/D16.jpg?itok=Gik6C2dI", "height": "510", "width": "320" }, { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/image/NC_moirsmate%20no.%204.jpg?itok=yT5-ObOb", "height": "244", "width": "325" } ] }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/darrans/wick-mountains/moirs-mate/mates-little-brother", "name": "The Mate's Little Brother", "altitude": null, "access": "To access these routes, follow the scree slope below Moir\u2019s Mate round to narrow ledges (try not to lose too much height) which traverse along the base of the wall.\nDescent of the Mate\u2019s Little Brother\nBy far the easiest option is to rap your route. Otherwise it is possible to walk down the true left of the Little Brother to the Cleddau ledges. In early summer the snow basins can be full, making descent down the true left both difficult and dangerous. An alternative route lies over a col beyond the Moir\u2019s Mate and down the northern slabs to the Homer Saddle ridge.", "description": "The Mate\u2019s Little Brother contains some of the best free routes in the Darran region. The Half Dome-shaped Little Brother is 180m high and the rock clean and coarse.", "latlng": null, "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/darrans/wick-mountains/moirs-mate/mates-little-brother/wheres-my-epirb", "name": "Where\u2019s My Epirb?", "grade": "21", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": "0m", "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": "18", "description": null }, { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": "21", "description": null }, { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": "21", "description": null }, { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": "21", "description": null } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": "0", "natural_pro": false, "description": "On the left side of the Mate\u2019s Little Brother.", "ascent": "Murray Ball, Nick Cradock, Glen Einam, 2008" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/darrans/wick-mountains/moirs-mate/mates-little-brother/milford-cruise", "name": "The Milford Cruise", "grade": "22", "topo_ref": "1", "image": null, "images": [], "length": "0m", "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": true, "ewbank": "22", "description": "Three pitches. 20, 22, 21. An excellent and sustained route through three overlaps; the route avoids much of the water-streak, staying right through the overlaps." } ], "quality": 2, "bolts": "0", "natural_pro": true, "description": null, "ascent": "Murray Judge, Paul Rogers, Feb 1989." }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/darrans/wick-mountains/moirs-mate/mates-little-brother/brothers-arms", "name": "Brothers in Arms", "grade": "23", "topo_ref": "2", "image": null, "images": [], "length": "150m", "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": "45m", "bolts": null, "trad": true, "ewbank": "20", "description": "Starting on slabs left of the arches, move up past some bolts then step right and into obvious crack." }, { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": "45m", "bolts": null, "trad": true, "ewbank": "23", "description": "Sustained moves left of the belay then move right into the white leaning corner \u2013 a 25m, grade 20 overhanging jug-fest. Belay out left." }, { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": "30m", "bolts": null, "trad": true, "ewbank": "21", "description": "Step right from belay, climbing right trending crack to bolt on face above. Step right then continue up and left through cracks past bolt to belay." }, { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": "30m", "bolts": null, "trad": true, "ewbank": "21", "description": "Straight up corner passing a bolt to the butterfly flake. Two bolts lead to a long reach left then up and over the Mate\u2019s Little Brother." } ], "quality": 2, "bolts": "0", "natural_pro": true, "description": null, "ascent": "Murray Judge, Paul Rogers, Mar 1989." }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/darrans/wick-mountains/moirs-mate/mates-little-brother/cradocks-retreat", "name": "Cradock's Retreat", "grade": "21", "topo_ref": "3", "image": null, "images": [], "length": "80m", "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": "35m", "bolts": null, "trad": true, "ewbank": "21", "description": "Climb steep slabs and small left facing crack, passing a number of bolts. The crux bolt has been replaced. Climb through a small roof to bolt belay." }, { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": "45m", "bolts": null, "trad": true, "ewbank": "21", "description": "From belay climb left into the shallow corner, passing two bolts before steep cracks lead to the big white corner of Brothers in Arms. Continue up corner to belay." } ], "quality": 3, "bolts": "0", "natural_pro": true, "description": null, "ascent": "Guy Cotter, Nick Cradock, February 1989" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/darrans/wick-mountains/moirs-mate/mates-little-brother/second-coming", "name": "Second Coming", "grade": "26", "topo_ref": "4", "image": null, "images": [], "length": "122m", "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": "25m", "bolts": null, "trad": true, "ewbank": "16", "description": "Easy-going slab takes you to the base of the overhanging arches." }, { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": "9m", "bolts": null, "trad": true, "ewbank": "23", "description": "The dihedral requires wide bridging and lay-backing on fingertips with protection from small wires." }, { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": "10m", "bolts": null, "trad": true, "ewbank": "26", "description": "Hard moves up corner \u2018til crack opens out to underclings. Take big Friends #4." }, { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": "8m", "bolts": null, "trad": true, "ewbank": "22", "description": "Move past three old bolt ladder bolts, then traverse over to the newer bolts cutting back into flake/chimney system." }, { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": "15m", "bolts": null, "trad": true, "ewbank": "21", "description": "Up right, then back left following ramp to single bolt and natural belay." }, { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": "25m", "bolts": null, "trad": true, "ewbank": "19", "description": "Move through big corner past black rock band to belay in horizontal break." }, { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": "30m", "bolts": null, "trad": true, "ewbank": "19", "description": "Straight up, moving out right to bolt then a lengthy stretch of steep slab climbing with no protection over the Little Brother. A trouser-filling top-out!" } ], "quality": 3, "bolts": "0", "natural_pro": true, "description": null, "ascent": "Paul Aubrey, Mark Moorhead, Feb 1980." }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/darrans/wick-mountains/moirs-mate/mates-little-brother/armageddon", "name": "Armageddon", "grade": "28", "topo_ref": "5", "image": null, "images": [], "length": "95m", "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": "20m", "bolts": "3", "trad": true, "ewbank": "22", "description": null }, { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": "25m", "bolts": "8", "trad": true, "ewbank": "28", "description": null }, { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": "20m", "bolts": "4", "trad": true, "ewbank": "28", "description": null }, { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": "30m", "bolts": "5", "trad": true, "ewbank": "26", "description": null } ], "quality": 2, "bolts": "8", "natural_pro": true, "description": null, "ascent": "Stefan Hadfield, Derek Thatcher, 2007" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/darrans/wick-mountains/moirs-mate/mates-little-brother/revelations", "name": "Revelations", "grade": "27", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": "140m", "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": "55m", "bolts": "8", "trad": true, "ewbank": "27", "description": null }, { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": "20m", "bolts": "4", "trad": true, "ewbank": "26", "description": null }, { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": "35m", "bolts": "4", "trad": true, "ewbank": "25", "description": null }, { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": "30m", "bolts": "3", "trad": true, "ewbank": "20", "description": null } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": "8", "natural_pro": true, "description": "Mostly bolted with obvious cams (sizes 0-3). Take 14 quickdraws and two\nropes.\nDescent is by abseiling the route.", "ascent": "Derek Thatcher, Jamie Vinton-Boot, 2008" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/darrans/wick-mountains/moirs-mate/mates-little-brother/new-jersey-drifter", "name": "New Jersey Drifter", "grade": "24", "topo_ref": "6", "image": null, "images": [], "length": "145m", "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": "40m", "bolts": null, "trad": true, "ewbank": "24", "description": "Staunch moves off the belay lead to more staunch moves through an undercling layback before continuing up corner and face to belay." }, { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": "20m", "bolts": null, "trad": true, "ewbank": "21", "description": "Dynamic face moves past two bolts lead into the Yosemite Flake and steep jug-filled corner." }, { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": "30m", "bolts": null, "trad": true, "ewbank": "21", "description": "Move right off belay then up past a bolt before trending left along ramp to overlap and bolt. A healthy rock-over leads onto a slab. Continue up and right to bolt then left to belay." }, { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": "35m", "bolts": null, "trad": true, "ewbank": "22", "description": "Cranky moves lead up and left off belay past two bolts then right under overlap. Continue up and left to bolt under second overlap. Traverse right on underclings, clipping bolt on face above before pulling roof to belay." }, { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": "20m", "bolts": null, "trad": true, "ewbank": "18", "description": "Head up and right on slab, then mantle onto sloping ledge. From bolt on wall move left into black and white vein which trends right to exit at the top of the crag. \r\nThree full 60m abseils to reach the ground from the top anchors." } ], "quality": 3, "bolts": "0", "natural_pro": true, "description": null, "ascent": "Kester Brown, Craig Jefferies, Jan 2006." }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/darrans/wick-mountains/moirs-mate/mates-little-brother/mystic-sister", "name": "Mystic Sister", "grade": "24", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": "150m", "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": "35m", "bolts": "10", "trad": true, "ewbank": "24", "description": "Reach a shallow corner via an undercling and some hard pulls. Turn the lip before it curves right, climb straight up onto the face above. Then follow the seam diagonally up and left to the anchor." }, { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": "40m", "bolts": "10", "trad": true, "ewbank": "22", "description": "Straight up from the anchor tending right a bit onto a tricky face with flakes. This leads to the splitter crack which forms the bottom of the right-facing corner. Layback the flake to finish on the easy face right of the corner. Step left to belay on a ledge." }, { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": "40m", "bolts": "11", "trad": true, "ewbank": "23", "description": "Step left from the belay onto the face. Balancy moves lead onto a slab below the crack of a left-facing corner. Aim for the jug out right to get to a crack and face above. Move slightly left to the bottom of a left-facing offwidth. Negotiate the big boulders at the top of the offwidth to get to the next anchor." }, { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": "35m", "bolts": "9", "trad": true, "ewbank": "19", "description": "Take the flake left to climb the face into the left-facing corner. Pull over the roof on good holds, then climb a slab and a seam to a DBB at the top of the face." } ], "quality": 2, "bolts": "11", "natural_pro": true, "description": "The route starts at a single ring bolt anchor below a black corner 10 metres right of New Jersey Drifter. The route heads straight up the face, taking in the big right-facing corner in the centre of the wall. All belays are double ring bolts. Take a standard rack and 15 quickdraws, but you might like to add a #4 cam. Descend by abseiling the route, or walking off the top.", "ascent": "Frederike Andree, Jochen Lenfert, March 2021" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/darrans/wick-mountains/moirs-mate/mates-little-brother/gough-wayatt", "name": "Gough-Wayatt", "grade": null, "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": "0m", "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": true, "ewbank": null, "description": "On the right side of the Little Brother start off the broken slabs further round to the ledges. \r\nSeven pitches. Five pitches of aid, two of free-climbing. Tends up and left towards a small roof near the top of the face." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": "0", "natural_pro": true, "description": null, "ascent": "Peter Gough, Geoff Wayatt, 1974." }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/darrans/wick-mountains/moirs-mate/mates-little-brother/crystal-void", "name": "Crystal Void", "grade": "19", "topo_ref": "8", "image": null, "images": [], "length": "0m", "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": true, "ewbank": "19", "description": "On the right side of the Little Brother start off the broken slabs further round to the ledges. Four pitches. 17, 13, 19, 16. Follow a corner into left-tending ramps before heading straight up over the right side of the Mate\u2019s Little Brother." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": "0", "natural_pro": true, "description": null, "ascent": "Hugh Widdowson, 1989." }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/darrans/wick-mountains/moirs-mate/mates-little-brother/crystal-meth", "name": "Crystal Meth", "grade": "19", "topo_ref": "9", "image": null, "images": [], "length": "0m", "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": true, "ewbank": "19", "description": "On the right side of the Little Brother start off the broken slabs further round to the ledges. Four pitches. 16, 17, 19, 16. Starting from slabs on the right side of the wall, follow ledge systems up and left. The route moves through a series of cracks leading into a lone right-facing corner on the edge of the Mate\u2019s Little Brother." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": "0", "natural_pro": true, "description": null, "ascent": "Brigid Allan, Steve Eastwood, Craig Jefferies, Feb 2003." }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/darrans/wick-mountains/moirs-mate/mates-little-brother/mechanical-failure", "name": "Mechanical Failure", "grade": "23", "topo_ref": "MF", "image": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/route/M%20Failure.jpg?itok=i_3240FE", "images": [ { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/route/M%20Failure.jpg?itok=i_3240FE", "height": "154", "width": "325" } ], "length": "0m", "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": "4", "trad": true, "ewbank": "18", "description": "Start at the RHS of the crag, right of the arch and after beginning the scramble up to the Moir ledges. About 15m up above the ledges and back left a bit a bolt and a maililon by a left facing corner mark the start of the climbing. The climb needs cams 00 - 3 (Camalots) and a few wires. Route is rigged to rap.\r\nFollow left facing corner then break left to flakes and cracks to a grassy ledge. DBA" }, { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": "6", "trad": true, "ewbank": "20", "description": "Gain the slanting slab and follow it to an overlap, over this to another slab. DBA" }, { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": "7", "trad": true, "ewbank": "23", "description": "Up obvious corner, exit it at bolt to arete on left. Climb this to steep blank wall. Desperate move to gain groove and wall system. Ledge with DBA" }, { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": "4", "trad": true, "ewbank": "18", "description": "Pull onto arete up to ledge and then move left on slab to finish up arete. DBA" } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": "7", "natural_pro": true, "description": null, "ascent": "John Entwisle, Chris Burtenshaw, Jonathan Clearwater, February 2010" } ], "places": [], "image": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/wide/public/image/M%20Mate.jpg?itok=YMYjP7sY", "images": [ { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/wide/public/image/M%20Mate.jpg?itok=YMYjP7sY", "height": "636", "width": "900" }, { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/image/revelations-topo.jpg?itok=V-28sZ3p", "height": "325", "width": "189" }, { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/image/M%20Failure.jpg?itok=EsOacTmx", "height": "154", "width": "325" } ] }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/fiordland/wick-mountains/moirs-mate/south-west-face", "name": "South-west Face", "altitude": null, "access": null, "description": "South-west Face of Moir\u2019s Mate", "latlng": null, "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/fiordland/wick-mountains/moirs-mate/south-west-face/backside-route", "name": "The Backside Route", "grade": "15", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": true, "ewbank": "15", "description": "The route is located on the small south-west face on the very top of the Mate, above the Mate\u2019s Little Brother. \r\nTwo pitches: 13, 15. Good climbing, especially the second pitch." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": true, "description": null, "ascent": "Graeme Dingle, Merv English, Feb 1990." }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/fiordland/wick-mountains/moirs-mate/south-west-face/black-girls", "name": "Black Girls", "grade": "18", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": true, "ewbank": "18", "description": "To the right of the Mate, dropping down from the North Ridge is a short face. Two pitches: 18, 14. Up the central corner of the crag." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": true, "description": null, "ascent": "Graeme Dingle, Merv English, Mike de Leuw, Feb 1990." }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/fiordland/wick-mountains/moirs-mate/south-west-face/english-breakfast", "name": "English Breakfast", "grade": "20", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": true, "ewbank": "20", "description": "To the right of the Mate, dropping down from the North Ridge is a short face. \r\nTwo pitches: 20, 16. Starts up good cracks leading to a corner and fixed pin. Move left to a wall and follow crack on the right of the bolt to belay. Pitch two follows a shallow corner and slabs to top." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": true, "description": null, "ascent": "Graeme Dingle, Merv English, Mike de Leuw, Feb 1990." } ], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] } ], "image": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/wide/public/2023-10/Screenshot%202023-10-06%20at%202.54.42%20PM.jpg?itok=e_Fx6LYm", "images": [ { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/wide/public/2023-10/Screenshot%202023-10-06%20at%202.54.42%20PM.jpg?itok=e_Fx6LYm", "height": "624", "width": "1090" }, { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/image/Moirs%20Mate.jpg?itok=qzKo6YQs", "height": "185", "width": "325" }, { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/image/NC_moirsmate%20no.%204.jpg?itok=yT5-ObOb", "height": "244", "width": "325" }, { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/route/Moirsmate-web.jpg?itok=NpOp6pRj", "height": "325", "width": "225" } ] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/fiordland/darran-mountains/troglodyte-pk": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/fiordland/darran-mountains/troglodyte-pk", "name": "Troglodyte Pk", "altitude": "1810m", "access": null, "description": "tba", "latlng": [ "-44.561842", "167.981193" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/fiordland/darran-mountains/troglodyte-pk/hillary-et-al-route", "name": "The Hillary et al Route", "grade": null, "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "Climb gullies east of the Kaipo Wall to the ridge-top and onto the Ngapunatoru Plateau." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Ed Hillary, Jim Wilson, Roger Donaldson, Peter Hillary, Jan 1974." }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/fiordland/darran-mountains/troglodyte-pk/original-route", "name": "Original Route", "grade": null, "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "Climb from Ngapunatoru Pass." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Mike Gill, Bob Barrack, I Bieleski, J S Ensor, Jan 1958." } ], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/black-mountain": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/black-mountain", "name": "Black Mountain", "altitude": "1809m", "access": null, "description": null, "latlng": [ "-43.5707915", "170.815861" ], "routes": [], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/kahurangi/arthur-range/the-twins": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/kahurangi/arthur-range/the-twins", "name": "The Twins", "altitude": "1809m", "access": null, "description": "Arthur Range", "latlng": [ "-41.23951161", "172.65899074" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/kahurangi/arthur-range/the-twins/north-twin-standard-route-grade-2", "name": "North Twin standard route Grade 2-", "grade": "2", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": "2", "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "Descend southwards from Mt Arthur to an easy tussock ridge (or else traverse steep slopes from the col between Mt Arthur and Winter Peak). Drop down the Ellis Basin side and sidle steep slopes, aiming for a group of large rocks. Continue sidling south-west over easier tussock and scree. There is a good campsite with water at about map ref. M27/825971. Traverse further around, below the ridge crest, and through karst, until east of the North Twin, then climb directly up. Alternatively, the Arthur Range can be followed from the obvious saddle at map ref. M27/820974, but this is more exposed and will entail a careful descent down a rock step on the ridge" } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": null }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/kahurangi/arthur-range/the-twins/south-twin-standard-route-grade-2", "name": "South Twin standard route Grade 2", "grade": "2", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": "2", "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "Cross the south-east ridge of the North Twin, either near the bushline or at about 1700m (more difficult), and traverse moderate rock till easier scree slopes lead directly up to the South Twin. This is also the best descent route. The South Twin can also be reached by the Paddy Ridge track, which starts a few minutes before the Baton River Track swingbridge (note that there is no water along this ridge)." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": null }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/kahurangi/arthur-range/the-twins/twins-traverse-grade-3", "name": "Twins Traverse Grade 3-", "grade": "3", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": "3", "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "From the North Twin follow the ridge for a short distance, descend a 2m step, then descend the steep and loose north-western flank for about 20m to a steep and exposed slab, where a rope is needed. Belay across in a southerly direction towards the small col between the Twins. Steep vegetated slopes on the northern side leads to the summit. Alternatively, from the col cross scree and find a \u2018keyhole\u2019 in the ridge. Pass through this, move up and around till above the \u2018keyhole\u2019. From here the route is straightforward but exposed, and may need to be pitched." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": null } ], "places": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/the-twins/north-twin", "name": "North Twin", "altitude": "1809m", "access": null, "description": "North Peak of The Twins in the Arthur Range", "latlng": null, "routes": [], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] } ], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/mt-barron": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/mt-barron", "name": "Mt Barron", "altitude": "1806m", "access": null, "description": "North of Amuri Pass.", "latlng": [ "-42.49586294", "172.19582259" ], "routes": [], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/mt-dick": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/mt-dick", "name": "Mt Dick", "altitude": "1805m", "access": null, "description": null, "latlng": [ "-45.26454889", "168.68324801" ], "routes": [], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/the-joker": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/the-joker", "name": "The Joker", "altitude": "1805m", "access": null, "description": null, "latlng": [ "-43.98912186", "169.31999565" ], "routes": [], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/1804": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/1804", "name": "Pt 1804", "altitude": "1804m", "access": null, "description": null, "latlng": [ "-45.66285107", "167.40762766" ], "routes": [], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/1804-0": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/1804-0", "name": "Mt Foweraker", "altitude": "1804m", "access": null, "description": null, "latlng": [ "-42.97379069", "171.69668986" ], "routes": [], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/knuckle-peak": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/knuckle-peak", "name": "Knuckle Pk", "altitude": "1804m", "access": null, "description": null, "latlng": [ "-44.78843868", "168.92332129" ], "routes": [], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/c58dhau-landsborough/paringa-moeraki-mountains/rough-ridge": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/c58dhau-landsborough/paringa-moeraki-mountains/rough-ridge", "name": "Rough Ridge", "altitude": "1803m", "access": null, "description": null, "latlng": [ "-43.85342353", "169.53250154" ], "routes": [], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/south-disappearing-peak": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/south-disappearing-peak", "name": "Disappearing Pks", "altitude": "1802m", "access": null, "description": null, "latlng": [ "-44.92300577", "167.9903745" ], "routes": [], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/1802": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/1802", "name": "Pt 1802", "altitude": "1802m", "access": null, "description": null, "latlng": [ "-42.96122148", "172.18358622" ], "routes": [], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/citheron": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/citheron", "name": "Citheron", "altitude": "1800m", "access": null, "description": null, "latlng": [ "-44.07079792", "169.22748198" ], "routes": [], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/canterbury/reeses-ridge/five-jagged-pks": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/canterbury/reeses-ridge/five-jagged-pks", "name": "Five Jagged Pks", "altitude": "1800m", "access": null, "description": null, "latlng": [ "-42.971874", "171.309643" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/canterbury/reeses-ridge/five-jagged-pks/farquharson-saddle", "name": "From Farquharson Saddle", "grade": null, "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "From below Farquharson Saddle, traverse south-east to the summit." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Cliff Holdsworth, John W (Jack) Mitchell, Neville Barker, January 1933" } ], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/southland/eyre-mountains/walter-pk": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/southland/eyre-mountains/walter-pk", "name": "Walter Pk", "altitude": "1800m", "access": null, "description": null, "latlng": [ "-45.12922371", "168.55960674" ], "routes": [], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aspiring/barrier-range/sunset-pk": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aspiring/barrier-range/sunset-pk", "name": "Sunset Pk", "altitude": "1800m", "access": null, "description": null, "latlng": [ "-44.510627", "168.268919" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aspiring/barrier-range/sunset-pk/standard-route", "name": "Standard Route", "grade": null, "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "As for Brenda Peak, then Corinna Peak, then from Corinna Peak." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": null } ], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/mt-troy": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/mt-troy", "name": "Mt Troy", "altitude": "1799m", "access": null, "description": null, "latlng": [ "-45.44138137", "168.29240096" ], "routes": [], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/arthurs-pass/main-divide/pt-1796": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/arthurs-pass/main-divide/pt-1796", "name": "Pt 1796", "altitude": "1796m", "access": null, "description": null, "latlng": [ "-42.78304249", "171.78873174" ], "routes": [], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/westland/willberg-range/avalon-pk": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/westland/willberg-range/avalon-pk", "name": "Avalon Pk", "altitude": "1796m", "access": null, "description": "Avalon Peak was named by the first ascent party as being at the junction of the Wilberg Range and a major ridge running off to the west, dividing Hot Springs Creek from Tribute Creek, I34 168721. This is 400m north of the metric map position", "latlng": [ "-43.236824", "170.622826" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/westland/willberg-range/avalon-pk/north-west-ridge", "name": "North West Ridge", "grade": "1", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "1", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "From about pt 1633m, the range can be traversed to Avalon Peak pretty much along the ridge, but rock on the ridge is loose, and mixed with steep vegetated bluffs. The ridge becomes narrow and exposed. Near the top expect snow until midsummer. The peak is easily descended to the east." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Arnold Heine, Jim Cruse, Gordon Howitt, Harold Simpson, 27 Dec 1951" } ], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/kahurangi/arthur-range/mt-arthur": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/kahurangi/arthur-range/mt-arthur", "name": "Mt Arthur", "altitude": "1795m", "access": null, "description": "Arthur Range", "latlng": [ "-41.2197", "172.6815" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/kahurangi/arthur-range/mt-arthur/standard-route", "name": "standard route", "grade": "1", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": "1", "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "From Mt Arthur Hut follow the poled track. For a round trip variation, descend the north-east ridge to pick up the poled route from Gordons Pyramid, through the karst sinkholes of Horseshoe Basin and up to the main track." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": null } ], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/1793": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/1793", "name": "Pt 1793", "altitude": "1793m", "access": null, "description": null, "latlng": [ "-44.58916944", "168.17407999" ], "routes": [], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/arthurs-pass/mt-scarface": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/arthurs-pass/mt-scarface", "name": "Mt Scarface", "altitude": "1792m", "access": null, "description": "Poulter-Minchin Area", "latlng": [ "-42.82810076", "171.79273729" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/mt-scarface/south-ridge", "name": "South Ridge", "grade": "I", "topo_ref": null, "image": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/route/090114%20map%20scarface.jpg?itok=eydpUodB", "images": [ { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/route/090114%20map%20scarface.jpg?itok=eydpUodB", "height": "216", "width": "325" } ], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": "I", "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": null } ], "quality": 1, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": "A summer day trip from Worsley Biv up the Poulter River.\nClimb the bush opposite to the open tops of the South Ridge of Scarface.\nFurther up, steep rock outcrops can be avoided by dropping down to the east,\nthreading an easy route through the final ridge to the summit.", "ascent": null } ], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/mt-warren": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/mt-warren", "name": "Mt Warren", "altitude": "1792m", "access": null, "description": null, "latlng": [ "-44.00475412", "169.0069796" ], "routes": [], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/red-hill": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/red-hill", "name": "Maungakura Red Hill", "altitude": "1791m", "access": null, "description": null, "latlng": [ "-41.62631062", "173.05772253" ], "routes": [], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/canterbury-westland-alps/willberg-range/smith-pk": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/canterbury-westland-alps/willberg-range/smith-pk", "name": "Smith Pk", "altitude": "1790m", "access": null, "description": "No known ascent, but appears easiest from the east.", "latlng": [ "-43.261269", "170.63261" ], "routes": [], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/arthurs-pass/black-range/mottram-pks": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/arthurs-pass/black-range/mottram-pks", "name": "Mottram Pks", "altitude": "1789m", "access": null, "description": null, "latlng": [ "-43.01060978", "171.46705627" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/arthurs-pass/black-range/mottram-pks/north-east-spur", "name": "North East Spur", "grade": "1", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": "1", "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": null } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": "An easy climb from the Waimakariri valley. Follow either the North East Spur\nfrom the Anti Crow River or the small stream below the old Greenlaw Hut site,\nwhich drains the north basin between the peaks.", "ascent": null } ], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/mt-gilbert": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/mt-gilbert", "name": "Mt Gilbert", "altitude": "1787m", "access": null, "description": null, "latlng": [ "-44.87709711", "168.58889794" ], "routes": [], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/fiordland/llawrenny-peaks/terror-pk": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/fiordland/llawrenny-peaks/terror-pk", "name": "Terror Pk", "altitude": "1786m", "access": null, "description": "Terror Peak is south of the main Llawrenny Peaks. There are several good rock climbs on the North Face.", "latlng": [ "-44.67326132", "167.814188" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/fiordland/llawrenny-peaks/terror-pk/south-east-ridge", "name": "South East Ridge", "grade": null, "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "Climb the ridge between the valleys of Giant Gates and Poseidon, staying close to the ridge for its entire length. A short step at the base of the summit can be turned by traversing south round snow slopes." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Martin Bassett, Ray Copp, Austen Deans, Edgar Williams, Nov 1954." }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/fiordland/llawrenny-peaks/terror-pk/south-face", "name": "South Face", "grade": null, "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": "Three pitches of good rock mixed in with some mossy bits (Climber #79, p10).", "ascent": "Nina Dickerhof, Danilo Hegg, James Thornton, 2012" } ], "places": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/fiordland/llawrenny-peaks/terror-pk/north-face", "name": "North Face", "altitude": null, "access": "Best accessed by helicopter from Milford. 2016 price is $1050 rtn for the 500.", "description": "The are several good rock climbs on this face, best accessed from a camp by the lake (still shown as a snowfield on 260 and Topo 50 maps) to the north.\n\u201cCragging around the lake was primo with clean and crystally granite. We did two easy routes (three pitches each). My God there is more to do here.\u201d \u2013 Martin Wilson\nPlease remember how far west this area is and how quickly the rain can set in. The forecast is particularly changeable for these ranges and the camp sites are very exposed. Bring only 4 season tents and pack a Bivy bag to use in the tent if there is any chance of inclement weather.\nPlease do not open the stash barrel. The contents have been carefully dried and stowed to eliminate the chance of rot and the equipment is used for route development purposes. There is no food or fuel in the barrel, thanks.", "latlng": null, "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/fiordland/llawrenny-peaks/terror-pk/north-face/terrorfirma", "name": "Terrorfirma", "grade": "21", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": "220m", "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": "55m", "bolts": null, "trad": true, "ewbank": "19", "description": "Start at the toe of the buttress and climb the obvious weakness until you reach the top of the quartz topped pillar, step over the pillar to belay." }, { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": "55m", "bolts": null, "trad": true, "ewbank": "21", "description": "Climb the vertical face skirting to the right of the large overhang to climb a semi groove onto the upper face, continue up the steep face above via a series of cracks and weaknesses. Belay on the left edge of the face." }, { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": "55m", "bolts": null, "trad": true, "ewbank": "21", "description": "Again climb the face over a small overlap via cracks and ledges first going right and then back left. Belay on the left edge of the face" }, { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": "55m", "bolts": null, "trad": true, "ewbank": "15", "description": "Move off up the wall on easier ground climb a series of short corners to bely in a grassy bay." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": true, "description": null, "ascent": "Nick Flyvbjerg, Tony Burnell" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/fiordland/llawrenny-peaks/terror-pk/north-face/reign-terror", "name": "Reign of Terror", "grade": "20", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": "220m", "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": "55m", "bolts": null, "trad": true, "ewbank": "16", "description": "See topo" }, { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": "55m", "bolts": null, "trad": true, "ewbank": "18", "description": null }, { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": "55m", "bolts": null, "trad": true, "ewbank": "20", "description": null }, { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": "55m", "bolts": null, "trad": true, "ewbank": "18", "description": null } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": true, "description": "This route ascends 20m right of Terrorfirma", "ascent": "Nick Flyvbjerg, Shelly Malkin, 2010" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/fiordland/llawrenny-peaks/terror-pk/north-face/war-terror", "name": "War on Terror", "grade": "21", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": "230m", "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": "50m", "bolts": null, "trad": true, "ewbank": "19", "description": null }, { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": "50m", "bolts": null, "trad": true, "ewbank": "21", "description": null }, { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": "50m", "bolts": null, "trad": true, "ewbank": "18", "description": null }, { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": "50m", "bolts": null, "trad": true, "ewbank": "18", "description": "Rather than skirting to the left and up the gully there is a variation to this pitch which climbs at grade 22 directly up the left side cracks on the obvious steep face. Scarily run out" }, { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": "30m", "bolts": null, "trad": true, "ewbank": "20", "description": null } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": true, "description": null, "ascent": "Hugh Barnard, Martin Wilson, March 2008" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/fiordland/llawrenny-peaks/terror-pk/north-face/terribilita", "name": "Terribilita", "grade": "23", "topo_ref": null, "image": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/route/Westlake%20Walls%20topo-01.jpg?itok=vlfXBGKo", "images": [ { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/route/Westlake%20Walls%20topo-01.jpg?itok=vlfXBGKo", "height": "325", "width": "230" } ], "length": "250m", "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": "45m", "bolts": "1", "trad": true, "ewbank": "21", "description": "Climb crack from water for 5 metres until the large crack heads off up and right. Continue straight up past the bolt at 15m and climb the thin (middle of the three) and sparcely protected weakness smearing and laying away. Follow directly up to a small ledged corner at the Double bolt belay." }, { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": "55m", "bolts": "2", "trad": true, "ewbank": "21", "description": "Make some awkward moves, past two bolts & up the rounded slabby face. Follow the narrow intrusion up through very thin moves to more gear then run it out castle hill style to the belay scoop and a double bolt anchor." }, { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": "25m", "bolts": "4", "trad": true, "ewbank": "23", "description": "Climb up the slab to the first cam runner under the overlap, then move left and up on tenuous underclings through crimps and onto a good rest below the first bolt.Head up to the roof and step delicately right to clip the first of two bolts protecting the crack/corner. Wide bridging up the corner will take you past another bolt and some permanent old rusty wires. Now lay away on steep ground and make a lunge to the ragged pinch on the skyline. Exit right to double bolt anchor" }, { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": "25m", "bolts": "3", "trad": false, "ewbank": "20", "description": "traverse to the right, smear and pad your way up the bare slabby water runnel to a double bolt belay." }, { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": "50m", "bolts": "3", "trad": true, "ewbank": "19", "description": "Climb the runnel past two bolts until the crack proper starts, continue easily up the crack and step right onto the face, pass one bolt and you'll find a double bolt belay." }, { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": "50m", "bolts": "2", "trad": true, "ewbank": "18", "description": "Climb the slabby wall past a single bolt, follow a series of ramps and corners up past one more bsingle bolt crux and enjoy the easy angled scrambling to a double bolt belay on the ledge system that runs along the top of the route." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": "4", "natural_pro": true, "description": "this route has a single ring bolt access anchor on the top of the most\nprominent lump on the top out ledge. rappel or scramble down to the top of\nthe route and descend to the water.\nAlternatively paddle a boat to the bottom of the route marked with 'TE' at\nthe water line. climb the route and rappel back to the boat at the end of the\nday.", "ascent": "Tony Burnell, Nick Flyverg 2010" } ], "places": [], "image": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/wide/public/image/laketerror.jpg?itok=wVKIz_NN", "images": [ { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/wide/public/image/laketerror.jpg?itok=wVKIz_NN", "height": "363", "width": "502" }, { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/image/waronterror.jpg?itok=0cSRrYye", "height": "325", "width": "238" }, { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/image/Terror%20Pk%20Nth%20Wall%20Topo%201-01-01_0.jpg?itok=ZZuDelr8", "height": "325", "width": "251" }, { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/image/Terror%20Pk%20Nth%20Wall%20Topo%202-02-02.jpg?itok=hYD9jFYz", "height": "325", "width": "251" } ] } ], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/arthurs-pass/main-divide/mt-koeti": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/arthurs-pass/main-divide/mt-koeti", "name": "Mt Koeti", "altitude": "1786m", "access": "best climbed from the Townsend Hut", "description": "Mount Koeti sits between the Taramakau Valley and the headwaters of the Poulter River", "latlng": [ "-42.789795", "171.775017" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/arthurs-pass/main-divide/mt-koeti/koeti-taramakau-valley", "name": "Koeti from the Taramakau Valley", "grade": "1", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": "1", "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "Townsend Hut is at around 1170 m above the Taramakau River.--best to count gullies as you walk up the valley. The start of the track up from the river is well marked.\r\nFrom the hut the main ridge is easly gained and followed along to the peak." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": null } ], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/arthurs-pass/snow-cup-range/pt-1786": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/arthurs-pass/snow-cup-range/pt-1786", "name": "Pt 1786", "altitude": "1786m", "access": null, "description": null, "latlng": [ "-42.77911511", "171.84380683" ], "routes": [], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/mt-kane-north": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/mt-kane-north", "name": "Pt 1785", "altitude": "1785m", "access": null, "description": null, "latlng": [ "-44.93527142", "167.73924404" ], "routes": [], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/kakapo-peak": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/kakapo-peak", "name": "Kakapo Pk", "altitude": "1783m", "access": null, "description": null, "latlng": [ "-41.02036112", "172.55789341" ], "routes": [], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/1782": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/1782", "name": "Pt 1782", "altitude": "1782m", "access": null, "description": null, "latlng": [ "-44.98128106", "168.17335536" ], "routes": [], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/mt-lakeman": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/mt-lakeman", "name": "Mt Lakeman", "altitude": "1782m", "access": null, "description": null, "latlng": [ "-42.54544414", "172.20491732" ], "routes": [], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/darrans/wick-mountains/mt-kepka": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/darrans/wick-mountains/mt-kepka", "name": "Mt Kepka", "altitude": "1781m", "access": null, "description": "Named for Z Kepka, a Polish climber who worked as a guide on the Milford Track and climbed several peaks there. He made the first ascent in February 1959.", "latlng": [ "-44.770198", "167.806077" ], "routes": [], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/lewis-pass-harper-pass/main-divide/pt-1780": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/lewis-pass-harper-pass/main-divide/pt-1780", "name": "Pt 1780", "altitude": "1780m", "access": null, "description": null, "latlng": [ "-42.5861649", "172.11179856" ], "routes": [], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/nelson-lakes-kaik%C5%8Dura/black-birch-range/barometer": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/nelson-lakes-kaik%C5%8Dura/black-birch-range/barometer", "name": "Barometer", "altitude": "1780m", "access": null, "description": null, "latlng": [ "-41.8298627", "173.64536538" ], "routes": [], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/devil-river-peak": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/devil-river-peak", "name": "Devil River Pk", "altitude": "1780m", "access": null, "description": "Devil Range", "latlng": [ "-40.97474199", "172.64492823" ], "routes": [], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/fiordland/darran-mountains/puketuroto-pk": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/fiordland/darran-mountains/puketuroto-pk", "name": "Puketuroto Pk", "altitude": "1780m", "access": null, "description": "First ascended by Marie Byles, Tom Cameron, Kurt Suter, 1937.", "latlng": [ "-44.545665", "168.033056" ], "routes": [], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/mt-reeves": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/mt-reeves", "name": "Mt Reeves", "altitude": "1779m", "access": null, "description": null, "latlng": [ "-42.96855203", "171.18311153" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/mt-reeves/pinnacle-biv-zit-saddle-traverse", "name": "Pinnacle Biv\u2013Zit Saddle Traverse", "grade": "1-,I", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": "0m", "pitches": [ { "alpine": "1-", "commitment": "I", "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": null } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": "0", "natural_pro": false, "description": "From Pinnacle Bivvy, head over Crinkle Top above the bivvy, then sidle off the ridge through basins east of Genoa Peak to reach the range further south. There is a steeper rocky section before Mt Reeves, but travel is not difficult; nor is dropping off Mt Reeves to the south. There are campsites by tarns near the range in the last 750 metres along to Zit Saddle.", "ascent": null } ], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aspiring/young-river/pt-1779": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aspiring/young-river/pt-1779", "name": "Pt 1779", "altitude": "1779m", "access": null, "description": null, "latlng": [ "-44.20884965", "169.15232777" ], "routes": [], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/1777": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/1777", "name": "Pt 1777", "altitude": "1777m", "access": null, "description": null, "latlng": [ "-45.14951397", "168.10076943" ], "routes": [], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/darrans/wick-mountains/gulliver-pk": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/darrans/wick-mountains/gulliver-pk", "name": "Gulliver Pk", "altitude": "1776m", "access": null, "description": null, "latlng": [ "-44.773403", "167.966983" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/fiordland/wick-mountains/gulliver-pk/original-route", "name": "Original Route", "grade": null, "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "Take the face opposite the Homer tunnel, starting up a bouldery creek-bed where the road nears the valley wall. Scrub and snow-grass slopes lead to the right and back left under an overhanging wall; continue left then right into a basin that leads to the ridge." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Arthur Talbot, William Grave, Alf Grenfell, 1908." } ], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/1775": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/1775", "name": "Pt 1775", "altitude": "1775m", "access": null, "description": null, "latlng": [ "-42.28895273", "173.10791945" ], "routes": [], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/1774": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/1774", "name": "Pt 1774", "altitude": "1774m", "access": null, "description": null, "latlng": [ "-44.90817998", "167.83812756" ], "routes": [], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/kendall-ridge/mt-kendall": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/kendall-ridge/mt-kendall", "name": "Mt Kendall", "altitude": "1771m", "access": null, "description": "Kendall Ridge", "latlng": [ "-41.36808114", "172.39774634" ], "routes": [], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/fiordland/museum-range/coronation-pk": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/fiordland/museum-range/coronation-pk", "name": "Coronation Pk", "altitude": "1769m", "access": null, "description": "Above Irene Pass.", "latlng": [ "-45.23236827", "167.27315187" ], "routes": [], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/fiordland/darran-mountains/the-sentinel": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/fiordland/darran-mountains/the-sentinel", "name": "The Sentinel", "altitude": "1768m", "access": null, "description": "Sentinel has two summits: 1741m, which lies to the south and has some excellent routes on the South West Face; and the northern peak, 1768m, which has two quality slab routes on the north-eastern slopes.", "latlng": [ "-44.72136867", "168.02022457" ], "routes": [], "places": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/fiordland/darran-mountains/the-sentinel/east-face", "name": "East Face", "altitude": null, "access": null, "description": "Two short routes.", "latlng": null, "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/fiordland/darran-mountains/the-sentinel/east-face/uareu-memory-alex-chemelli", "name": "UareU - in memory of Alex Chemelli", "grade": "15,I", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": "250m", "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": "I", "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": "250m", "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": "15", "description": null } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": "Starts on the left of NE buttress, where the slabs become vertical and meet\nthe red rock in a obvious dihedral. Follow it for a total of five pitches\nright to the top. Green line on topo.", "ascent": "Matteo Scoz and Carl Schiller, 20 March 2011" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/fiordland/darran-mountains/the-sentinel/east-face/new-born", "name": "New Born", "grade": "13,I", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": "150m", "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": "I", "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": "150m", "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": "13", "description": null } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": "Starts where the wee glacier at the bottom of the east face ends and follows\na nice series of cracks up to the yellow buttress. Three pitches. Red line on\ntopo.", "ascent": "Carl Schiller and Matteo Scoz, 20 March 2011" } ], "places": [], "image": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/wide/public/image/Sentinel_E.jpg?itok=2pTQW8AQ", "images": [ { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/wide/public/image/Sentinel_E.jpg?itok=2pTQW8AQ", "height": "335", "width": "640" } ] }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/fiordland/darran-mountains/the-sentinel/south-west-face", "name": "South West Face", "altitude": null, "access": null, "description": "The South-west face is cut by two prominent fault lines. The right-hand fault extends from the base of the cliff to the summit and provides the start of the first three routes on the face.", "latlng": null, "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/fiordland/darran-mountains/the-sentinel/south-west-face/south-west-face", "name": "South West Face", "grade": null, "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": true, "ewbank": null, "description": "The initial slabs lead to the obvious right-to-left corner in the right side of the face." } ], "quality": 1, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": true, "description": null, "ascent": "Murray Cullen, John Entwistle, 1974." }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/fiordland/darran-mountains/the-sentinel/south-west-face/wayatt-begg", "name": "Wayatt Begg", "grade": null, "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": true, "ewbank": null, "description": "Starting as for the Clark Hudson route, exit left from the large open book corner via a loose ledge then climb the steep buttress for 60m \u2018til it blends in with the summit headwall. Traverse right back into the corner below the final chimney pitch of the Clark Hudson route." } ], "quality": 1, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": true, "description": null, "ascent": "Geoff Wayatt, Dave Begg, Jan 1974." }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/fiordland/darran-mountains/the-sentinel/south-west-face/clark-hudson", "name": "Clark Hudson", "grade": null, "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": true, "ewbank": null, "description": "Start up a prominent nose on steep compact rock. Instead of traversing left on the Cullen/Entwistle route, climb directly up a short steep wall to the base of a large open book corner which splits the face; two pitches of excellent slab and crack climbing including some dynamic jamming protected by bomb proof chocks. Continue to a large roof which can be turned on the right by pleasant slabs and a slightly damp chimney." } ], "quality": 1, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": true, "description": null, "ascent": "Bruce Clark, Calum Hudson, Jan 1974." }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/fiordland/darran-mountains/the-sentinel/south-west-face/south-east-buttress", "name": "South East Buttress", "grade": "16", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": true, "ewbank": "16", "description": "A beautiful line up the dramatic buttress. Traverse left along a prominent ledge from the ridge and climb the buttress direct: four pitches.\r\n It is possible to rappel the route back to the ledges." } ], "quality": 2, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": true, "description": null, "ascent": "Bill Atkinson, Rick McGregor, Judy Terpstra, 1975." }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/fiordland/darran-mountains/the-sentinel/south-west-face/california", "name": "California", "grade": "18", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": true, "ewbank": "18", "description": "The routes are variations on the Original South East Buttress, taking lines up the beautiful rock slabs at the base of the buttress.\r\nFour pitches: 14, 18, 18, 14. Up a steep flaky crack system leading to the base of the South East Buttress; named California because it was full of loose flakes." } ], "quality": 1, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": true, "description": null, "ascent": "Calum Hudson, Paul Rogers, Mar 1988." }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/fiordland/darran-mountains/the-sentinel/south-west-face/fancy-pants-and-misfits", "name": "Fancy Pants and the Misfits", "grade": "18", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": true, "ewbank": "18", "description": "The route are variations on the Original South East Buttress, taking lines up the beautiful rock slabs at the base of the buttress.\r\nUp through an overlap and onto a grooved slab to join the bottom of the South East Buttress \r\n. Straight up and over bulge, crux, to a belay on small ledge." }, { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": true, "ewbank": "15", "description": "Trend left up grove past some large balanced chock stones to join the base of the buttress." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": true, "description": null, "ascent": "Thomas Evans, Mal Haskins, Michael Madden, Feb 2005." }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/fiordland/darran-mountains/the-sentinel/south-west-face/original-route", "name": "Original Route", "grade": null, "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "From Adelaide Saddle traverse round to the high peak." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Lindsay Stewart, Jim Dakin, Jack Warren, Nov 1936." } ], "places": [], "image": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/wide/public/image/D129.jpg?itok=FXB82ogd", "images": [ { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/wide/public/image/D129.jpg?itok=FXB82ogd", "height": "428", "width": "612" } ] } ], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/darrans/darran-mountains/sentinel-north-pk": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/darrans/darran-mountains/sentinel-north-pk", "name": "The Sentinel North Pk", "altitude": "1768m", "access": null, "description": null, "latlng": null, "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/fiordland/darran-mountains/sentinel-north-pk/north-east-buttress", "name": "North East Buttress", "grade": "12", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": true, "ewbank": "12", "description": "From the right side of the snowfield, scramble up the easy angled lower part of the obvious slabby buttress to where it steepens. Start at a crack in the slab five metres left of the nose of the buttress. Climb cracks, then head right onto buttress and continue on crest until it lies back below the summit." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": true, "description": null, "ascent": "Peter Blunt, Ian Brown, February 2001" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/fiordland/darran-mountains/sentinel-north-pk/gabites-groove", "name": "Gabites Groove", "grade": "12", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": true, "ewbank": "12", "description": "The obvious groove." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": true, "description": null, "ascent": "Geoff Gabites, March 1979" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/fiordland/darran-mountains/sentinel-north-pk/lipside", "name": "Lipside", "grade": "17", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": true, "ewbank": null, "description": "Slabby groove on left to base of white slab. This groove line continues to top of crag." }, { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": true, "ewbank": null, "description": "Rising traverse right leads across slab to good crack belay." }, { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": true, "ewbank": null, "description": "Crest of buttress." }, { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": "17", "description": "anging slab to crack through overlap. Swing out onto buttress again (crux)." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": true, "description": null, "ascent": "Peter Blunt, Ian Brown, Feb 2001." }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/fiordland/darran-mountains/sentinel-north-pk/right-hand-route", "name": "Right Hand Route", "grade": null, "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Jonathon Aitheson, Mark Edgar, April 1979" } ], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/mt-ward-east": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/mt-ward-east", "name": "Pt 1764", "altitude": "1764m", "access": null, "description": null, "latlng": [ "-45.61161879", "167.19028607" ], "routes": [], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/mt-owen-0": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/mt-owen-0", "name": "Mt Owen", "altitude": "1763m", "access": null, "description": null, "latlng": [ "-45.30087069", "167.57179565" ], "routes": [], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/westland/john-pascoe-ridge/garden-of-allah-ice-pleateau/icefall-lookout": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/westland/john-pascoe-ridge/garden-of-allah-ice-pleateau/icefall-lookout", "name": "Icefall Lookout", "altitude": "1763m", "access": null, "description": "In 1935 Pascoe's party camped near pt 1636m, not far from the Arethusa Glacier and called it Icefall Lookout. The present position marked at pt 1763m on map I35 first appeared in the 1970s with contoured inch to mile NZMS1 maps. There is now a large tarn near pt 1763m later in summer, a result of glacial recession. A knob of reasonable rock west of the currently marked Icefall Lookout offers a short rock climb from the south. From the north, (Lower Adams Glacier) it is quite an impressive horn of reasonable rock 400m high, and probably unclimbed", "latlng": [ "-43.313063", "170.688572" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/westland/john-pascoe-ridge/garden-of-allah-ice-pleateau/icefall-lookout/adams-col-icefall", "name": "Adams Col to Icefall Lookout", "grade": null, "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "A small tongue of ice from the Garden of Eden flows through the col and peters out in a small basin. Below here, at about the 1860m contour, a series of rocky knolls lead to small bluffs with a series of gullies draining between them. The easiest route down doesnt follow the gully on the far true left (which normally requires confined rock moves if there isnt continuous snow) but instead goes down the gully to the immediate right of it. This gully is more open and all that is required is easy scrambling between the bluffs leading down to gentler scree slopes. \r\n\r\nFrom Adams Col, head down the snow basin and as it starts to drop off keep left under rockwalls on Guardian Peak. Near where it actually drops off, switch over the first rocky rib to the right and scramble down to an easy gully of scree and snowslopes below. You're down. \r\n\r\nIn the reverse direction going up from near Icefall Lookout follow snowslopes towards the col then sidle slightly left (looking up) onto scree. Follow the scree up a gully through a break in the bluffs to the basin above and the col. \r\n\r\nContinuing to the Garden of Allah \r\nFrom the gentler snow slopes north of Adams Col at about the 1800m contour, follow down under bluffs swinging east across a snow and gravel basin past I35 226632. It is normal to descend to about the 1740m contour before gaining height again. Travel varies from snowslopes to gravel and a bit of easy bedrock, depending on conditions. Thirty years ago continuous gentle snowslopes filled this basin. Steeper snow leads up again to the snow shoulder south of pt 1874m. Watch for changing snow texture climbing up to this shoulder, as snow frequently thins here over summer to expose old ice. A good route sidles up to the left through the middle of the snowbank between two small rock bluffs onto the gentler slopes above. Alternatively stay over near the John Pascoe Ridge side. \r\n\r\nContinuing to the glacier draining Angel Col \r\nThis is easily accessed from the snowslopes under (north of) Adams Col too. Much of this route in late summer crosses recently exposed rock ground smooth by past ice. The descent to the glacier itself is steeper but not normally difficult. It may be necessary to sidle south a little to find a gully down." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": null } ], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/westland/willberg-range/artemis-pk": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/westland/willberg-range/artemis-pk", "name": "Artemis Pk", "altitude": "1757m", "access": null, "description": "This peak was named by the first ascent party as being about a mile south of Avalon Peak at the junction of a major spur descending to forks in Hot Springs Creek. Metric maps showing the peak marked as less than a kilometre south of Mt Ferguson are incorrect.", "latlng": [ "-43.250704", "170.624456" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/westland/willberg-range/artemis-pk/east-ridge", "name": "East Ridge", "grade": "1", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "1", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "A relatively easy approach can be made up this spur from the Hot Springs Creek Basin." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Arnold Heine, Jim Cruse, Gordon Howitt, Harold Simpson, 28 Dec 1951" } ], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/darrans/earl-mountains/pt-1757": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/darrans/earl-mountains/pt-1757", "name": "Pt 1757", "altitude": "1757m", "access": null, "description": "The peak lies north-east of Consolation and south-west from the Divide.", "latlng": [ "-44.84654041", "168.07804724" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/darrans/earl-mountains/pt-1757/original-route", "name": "Original Route", "grade": null, "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "Follow up/climb the first main tributary of Falls Creek to reach the ridge between the unnamed peaks." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Les Brough, Doug Brough, Jim Brough, Lindsay Bruce, Earl Gill, 1952" } ], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/1757-0": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/1757-0", "name": "Pt 1757", "altitude": "1757m", "access": null, "description": null, "latlng": [ "-42.29701043", "173.48750354" ], "routes": [], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki/franz-josef-glacier-k%C4%81-roimata-hinehukatere/matenga-pk": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki/franz-josef-glacier-k%C4%81-roimata-hinehukatere/matenga-pk", "name": "Matenga Pk", "altitude": "1756m", "access": null, "description": "This is the highest peak on the Lindon Ridge which extends westward from the Minarets. Probably first climbed via its west ridge.", "latlng": [ "-43.499889", "170.261834" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki/franz-josef-glacier-k%C4%81-roimata-hinehukatere/matenga-pk/standard-route", "name": "Standard Route", "grade": null, "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "This is the highest peak on the Lindon Ridge which extends westward from the Minarets. Probably first climbed via its west ridge." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Alex Graham, Miss Marsden, May, 1916." }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki/franz-josef-glacier-k%C4%81-roimata-hinehukatere/matenga-pk/cleavage", "name": "Cleavage", "grade": "II,WI3", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": "150m", "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": "II", "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": "WI3", "mixed": null, "length": "150m", "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "The deep gully in the middle of the south face of Matenga. 2 pitches of moderate ice, followed by a pitch of easier ground to the ridge." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Mike Peat, Tom Wilson October 2007" } ], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/mt-richmond": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/mt-richmond", "name": "Mt Richmond", "altitude": "1756m", "access": null, "description": null, "latlng": [ "-41.47439631", "173.39523908" ], "routes": [], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/kahurangi/marino-mountains/culliford-hill": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/kahurangi/marino-mountains/culliford-hill", "name": "Culliford Hill", "altitude": "1756m", "access": "via Granity Pass Hut or Courthouse Flat", "description": "situated at Northern end of Marino Mouintains", "latlng": null, "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/kahurangi/marino-mountains/culliford-hill/culliford-hill-traverse-grade-1", "name": "Culliford Hill Traverse Grade 1", "grade": "1", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": "1", "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "A good day trip from Courthouse Flat, or an interesting alternative route to return to there from Granity Pass Hut. From the hut, proceed to Sanctuary Basin, then gain the ridge by any suitable route. Descend the north ridge. Pick up the track into Nuggety Creek. (NB: the ridge route is seriously overgrown with gorse lower down)." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": null } ], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/1755": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/1755", "name": "Pt 1755", "altitude": "1755m", "access": null, "description": null, "latlng": [ "-42.91022832", "172.2295798" ], "routes": [], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/arthurs-pass/poulter-range/peveril-pk": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/arthurs-pass/poulter-range/peveril-pk", "name": "Peveril Pk", "altitude": "1755m", "access": null, "description": null, "latlng": [ "-43.00039532", "171.91568055" ], "routes": [], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/1754": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/1754", "name": "Pt 1754", "altitude": "1754m", "access": null, "description": null, "latlng": [ "-42.81156264", "171.93979867" ], "routes": [], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/ni/gisborne/rauk%C5%ABmara-range/mt-hikurangi": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/ni/gisborne/rauk%C5%ABmara-range/mt-hikurangi", "name": "Mt Hikurangi", "altitude": "1754m", "access": "Drive to Ruatoria and up to a station then follow the Mt Hikurangi Track to a hut.", "description": null, "latlng": [ "-37.91917214", "178.060779" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/ni/gisborne/rauk%C5%ABmara-range/mt-hikurangi/north-west-ridge-winter", "name": "North West Ridge in Winter", "grade": "2", "topo_ref": null, "image": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/route/Picture%20027.jpg?itok=w31tcrNJ", "images": [ { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/route/Picture%20027.jpg?itok=w31tcrNJ", "height": "244", "width": "325" } ], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "2", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "Climb the ridge passing the gendarmes on the left hand side to the summit." } ], "quality": 2, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": "Highest non volcanic peak in the North Island. The first place in the world\nto see the sun come up. It snows and ices up nicely after artic storms.\nFollow the track from the hut and climb the first ridge line you come to.\nPass all gendarmes on the left hand side all the way to the summit. Crampons\nand an ice axe necessary in winter. Afterwards head down to Ruatoria for paua\nfritters in the cafe!", "ascent": "Unknown" } ], "places": [], "image": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/wide/public/image/Picture%2520027.jpg?itok=bVzRVT_-", "images": [ { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/wide/public/image/Picture%2520027.jpg?itok=bVzRVT_-", "height": "525", "width": "700" } ] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/arthurs-pass/main-divide/mt-mcrae": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/arthurs-pass/main-divide/mt-mcrae", "name": "Mt McRae", "altitude": "1753m", "access": null, "description": null, "latlng": [ "-42.81715684", "171.75373077" ], "routes": [], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/1753": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/1753", "name": "Pt 1753", "altitude": "1753m", "access": null, "description": null, "latlng": [ "-44.96966064", "168.06891196" ], "routes": [], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aspiring/haast-range/mt-duncan": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aspiring/haast-range/mt-duncan", "name": "Mt Duncan", "altitude": "1753m", "access": null, "description": null, "latlng": [ "-44.12177158", "168.77771384" ], "routes": [], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki-tai-poutini/price-range/gunn-pk": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki-tai-poutini/price-range/gunn-pk", "name": "Gunn Pk", "altitude": "1753m", "access": null, "description": null, "latlng": [ "-43.342096", "170.365162" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aoraki-tai-poutini/price-range/gunn-pk/traverse", "name": "Traverse", "grade": "1-", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "An easy scramble on shale-like rock leads to the summit from the south and east. From the\r\nnorth-west, a lightly exposed scramble leads along the Price Range. The ridge up to the Price\r\nRange from Pt 1527 metres, however, is of loose, friable schist that is steep, eroding, exposed\r\nand impractical." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": null } ], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/canterbury/dalgety-range/mt-dalgety": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/canterbury/dalgety-range/mt-dalgety", "name": "Mt Dalgety", "altitude": "1752m", "access": null, "description": null, "latlng": [ "-44.30040865", "170.60366795" ], "routes": [], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aspiring/harris-mountains/mt-soho": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aspiring/harris-mountains/mt-soho", "name": "Mt Soho", "altitude": "1752m", "access": null, "description": null, "latlng": [ "-44.86367578", "168.85980509" ], "routes": [], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/lewis-pass-harper-pass/upper-grey%E2%80%93ahaura-mountains/mt-elizabeth": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/lewis-pass-harper-pass/upper-grey%E2%80%93ahaura-mountains/mt-elizabeth", "name": "Mt Elizabeth", "altitude": "1750m", "access": null, "description": null, "latlng": [ "-42.67794627", "171.81153713" ], "routes": [], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/kahurangi/arthur-range/winter-pk": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/kahurangi/arthur-range/winter-pk", "name": "Winter Pk", "altitude": "1750m", "access": null, "description": "Winter Peak is a subsidiary peak of Mount Arthur in the Arthur Range, close to and south-east of the main peak.", "latlng": [ "-41.22006", "172.68646" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/kahurangi/arthur-range/winter-pk/ellis-basin-gully-grade-3-winter", "name": "Ellis Basin Gully Grade 3- winter", "grade": "3", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": "3", "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "If the snow gods have been kind, there will sometimes be steep snow/ice gullies on the south-west headwall. From the col between Mt Arthur and Winter Peak, traverse steep slopes and then descend to a shelf, which leads around the cirque to below the peak. The main gully exits at the summit, and is an excellent climb when filled." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": null }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/kahurangi/arthur-range/winter-pk/winter-peak-ordinary-route", "name": "Winter Peak ordinary route", "grade": "1", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": "1", "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "Can be climbed following the Mt Arthur poled track from the Mt Arthur Hut" } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": null } ], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/nelson-lakes/victoria-range/ivess-pk": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/nelson-lakes/victoria-range/ivess-pk", "name": "Ivess Pk", "altitude": "1749m", "access": null, "description": null, "latlng": [ "-42.20630037", "172.12085041" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/nelson-lakes/victoria-range/ivess-pk/south-ridge", "name": "South Ridge", "grade": null, "topo_ref": null, "image": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/route/IMG_8893_2.JPG?itok=8H2JlNfq", "images": [ { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/route/IMG_8893_2.JPG?itok=8H2JlNfq", "height": "244", "width": "325" } ], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "From point 1627 descend to a saddle to the NW and then climb the south ridge to the summit. A significant gendarme was avoided by sidling into a basin south of the summit." } ], "quality": 2, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "First ascent unknown but climbed by Nina Dickerhof & James Thornton, Aprill 2013" } ], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aspiring/richardson-mountains/ben-lomond": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aspiring/richardson-mountains/ben-lomond", "name": "Ben Lomond", "altitude": "1748m", "access": null, "description": null, "latlng": [ "-45.00699729", "168.61591694" ], "routes": [], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/fiordland/hunter-mountains/flat-mount": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/fiordland/hunter-mountains/flat-mount", "name": "Flat Mount", "altitude": "1748m", "access": null, "description": null, "latlng": [ "-45.60348027", "167.41084694" ], "routes": [], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/canterbury/amuri-range/mt-tinline": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/canterbury/amuri-range/mt-tinline", "name": "Mt Tinline", "altitude": "1747m", "access": null, "description": null, "latlng": [ "-42.44560178", "173.11180395" ], "routes": [], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/c58dhau-landsborough/bare-rocky-range/mt-ritchie": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/c58dhau-landsborough/bare-rocky-range/mt-ritchie", "name": "Mt Ritchie", "altitude": "1746m", "access": null, "description": null, "latlng": [ "-43.63814", "169.781562" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/c58dhau-landsborough/bare-rocky-range/mt-ritchie/pavo-creek", "name": "From Pavo Creek", "grade": "1,I", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": "0m", "pitches": [ { "alpine": "1", "commitment": "I", "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": null } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": "0", "natural_pro": false, "description": "The most straightforward route to Mt Ritchie \u2013 and also to Lake Roto Te Koeti and the fantastic surrounding tops \u2013 appears to be by bush spurs either side of Pavo Creek.", "ascent": null } ], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/1746": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/1746", "name": "Pt 1746", "altitude": "1746m", "access": null, "description": null, "latlng": [ "-44.66577966", "169.84194353" ], "routes": [], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/lewis-pass-harper-pass/nina%E2%80%93doubtful-mountains/mt-carrington": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/lewis-pass-harper-pass/nina%E2%80%93doubtful-mountains/mt-carrington", "name": "Mt Carrington", "altitude": "1743m", "access": null, "description": null, "latlng": [ "-42.49808832", "172.2578413" ], "routes": [], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/canterbury/tara-haoa-range/mt-peel": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/canterbury/tara-haoa-range/mt-peel", "name": "Mt Peel", "altitude": "1743m", "access": null, "description": "Popular inland Canterbury peak.", "latlng": [ "-43.84687423", "171.15667796" ], "routes": [], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/canterbury/amuri-range/mt-terako": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/canterbury/amuri-range/mt-terako", "name": "Mt Terako", "altitude": "1742m", "access": null, "description": null, "latlng": [ "-42.44735851", "173.15313646" ], "routes": [], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/arthurs-pass/poulter-range/mt-white": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/arthurs-pass/poulter-range/mt-white", "name": "Mt White", "altitude": "1741m", "access": null, "description": null, "latlng": [ "-43.02155505", "171.96438473" ], "routes": [], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/node/4914/foggy-pk": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/node/4914/foggy-pk", "name": "Foggy Pk", "altitude": "1741m", "access": null, "description": null, "latlng": [ "-43.2793299", "171.74858093" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/node/4914/foggy-pk/foggy-peak-ridge", "name": "Foggy Peak Ridge", "grade": null, "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": "Park at the top of Porter's Pass and walk up the ridge until you reach the summit.", "ascent": null } ], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/lewis-pass-harper-pass/main-divide/pt-1740": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/lewis-pass-harper-pass/main-divide/pt-1740", "name": "Pt 1740", "altitude": "1740m", "access": null, "description": null, "latlng": [ "-42.45653149", "172.23645556" ], "routes": [], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/1740-0": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/1740-0", "name": "Pt 1740", "altitude": "1740m", "access": null, "description": null, "latlng": [ "-42.87344165", "171.91425031" ], "routes": [], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/fiordland/darran-mountains/mitis-pk": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/fiordland/darran-mountains/mitis-pk", "name": "Mitis Pk", "altitude": "1738m", "access": null, "description": "tba", "latlng": [ "-44.587084", "167.943184" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/fiordland/darran-mountains/mitis-pk/original-route", "name": "Original Route", "grade": null, "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "Climb en route to the West Ridge of Mt Grave." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Jack Ede, Leo Faigan, Roland Rodda, Paul Powell, Dec 1946." } ], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/1737": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/1737", "name": "Pt 1737", "altitude": "1737m", "access": null, "description": null, "latlng": [ "-45.63783335", "167.20948663" ], "routes": [], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/lewis-pass-harper-pass/opera-range/trovatore": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/lewis-pass-harper-pass/opera-range/trovatore", "name": "Trovatore", "altitude": "1737m", "access": null, "description": null, "latlng": [ "-42.37662743", "172.42565026" ], "routes": [], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/lewis-pass-harper-pass/libretto-range/mephistopheles": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/lewis-pass-harper-pass/libretto-range/mephistopheles", "name": "Mephistopheles", "altitude": "1736m", "access": null, "description": null, "latlng": [ "-42.48014513", "172.42225241" ], "routes": [], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/otago/crown-range/crown-pk": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/otago/crown-range/crown-pk", "name": "Crown Pk", "altitude": "1735m", "access": null, "description": "South end of the Crown Range.", "latlng": [ "-44.9504974", "168.91964143" ], "routes": [], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/1734": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/1734", "name": "Pt 1734", "altitude": "1734m", "access": null, "description": null, "latlng": [ "-42.19561902", "172.13674092" ], "routes": [], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/1734-0": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/1734-0", "name": "Pt 1734", "altitude": "1734m", "access": null, "description": null, "latlng": [ "-42.74974383", "171.9726236" ], "routes": [], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/otago/diadem-range/snowy-top": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/otago/diadem-range/snowy-top", "name": "Snowy Top", "altitude": "1734m", "access": null, "description": null, "latlng": [ "-44.40610907", "169.76655009" ], "routes": [], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/ni/manawatu-whanganui/ruahine-range/hikurangi-range/mangaweka": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/ni/manawatu-whanganui/ruahine-range/hikurangi-range/mangaweka", "name": "Mangaweka", "altitude": "1731m", "access": null, "description": null, "latlng": [ "-39.81852806", "176.08547363" ], "routes": [], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/kahurangi-richmond/richmond-range/mt-rintoul": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/kahurangi-richmond/richmond-range/mt-rintoul", "name": "Mt Rintoul", "altitude": "1731m", "access": null, "description": null, "latlng": [ "-41.52254653", "173.23616887" ], "routes": [], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/1730": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/1730", "name": "Pt 1730", "altitude": "1730m", "access": null, "description": null, "latlng": [ "-44.92139681", "167.73161338" ], "routes": [], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/1730-0": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/1730-0", "name": "Pt 1730", "altitude": "1730m", "access": null, "description": null, "latlng": [ "-45.22568206", "168.44382943" ], "routes": [], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/kahurangi/peel-range/aorere-pk": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/kahurangi/peel-range/aorere-pk", "name": "Aorere Pk", "altitude": "1730m", "access": null, "description": null, "latlng": [ "-41.02278562", "172.49129788" ], "routes": [], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/fiordland/stuart-mountains/mt-mcdougall": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/fiordland/stuart-mountains/mt-mcdougall", "name": "Mt McDougall", "altitude": "1728m", "access": null, "description": null, "latlng": [ "-45.02347543", "167.67658086" ], "routes": [], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/1726": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/1726", "name": "Pt 1726", "altitude": "1726m", "access": null, "description": null, "latlng": [ "-42.57650349", "172.27151516" ], "routes": [], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/ni/taupo/kaimanawa-mountains/makorako": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/ni/taupo/kaimanawa-mountains/makorako", "name": "Makorako", "altitude": "1726m", "access": null, "description": null, "latlng": [ "-39.15712798", "176.04435424" ], "routes": [], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aspiring/olivine-range/retreat-pks": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aspiring/olivine-range/retreat-pks", "name": "Retreat Pks", "altitude": "1724m", "access": null, "description": null, "latlng": [ "-44.3426", "168.4098" ], "routes": [], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/ni/hawke%E2%80%99s-bay/kaweka-range/kaweka": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/ni/hawke%E2%80%99s-bay/kaweka-range/kaweka", "name": "Kaweka", "altitude": "1724m", "access": null, "description": "Kaweka Range", "latlng": [ "-39.28293606", "176.37932773" ], "routes": [], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/1723": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/1723", "name": "Pt 1723", "altitude": "1723m", "access": null, "description": null, "latlng": [ "-45.66835482", "167.17037384" ], "routes": [], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/southland/thomson-mountains/mt-lookup": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/southland/thomson-mountains/mt-lookup", "name": "Mt Lookup", "altitude": "1723m", "access": null, "description": null, "latlng": [ "-45.20377765", "168.25685086" ], "routes": [], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/lewis-pass-harper-pass/main-divide/mt-tuke": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/lewis-pass-harper-pass/main-divide/mt-tuke", "name": "Mt Tuke", "altitude": "1723m", "access": null, "description": "Just to the east of the Main Divide, above the Hurunui River.", "latlng": [ "-42.67311838", "171.96169921" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/lewis-pass-harper-pass/main-divide/mt-tuke/west-ridge", "name": "West Ridge", "grade": "1", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": "0m", "pitches": [ { "alpine": "1", "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": null } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": "0", "natural_pro": false, "description": "From the tarn below Mt Stapp, climb northeast to gain the west ridge of Mt Tuke.", "ascent": null } ], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/c58dhau-landsborough/paringa-moeraki-mountains/back-outpost": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/c58dhau-landsborough/paringa-moeraki-mountains/back-outpost", "name": "Back of the Outpost", "altitude": "1721m", "access": null, "description": null, "latlng": [ "-43.84783668", "169.58634629" ], "routes": [], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/c58dhau-landsborough/bannock-brae-range/mt-kinihi": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/c58dhau-landsborough/bannock-brae-range/mt-kinihi", "name": "Mt Kinihi", "altitude": "1721m", "access": null, "description": null, "latlng": [ "-43.694783", "169.687286" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/c58dhau-landsborough/bannock-brae-range/mt-kinihi/south-west-ridge", "name": "South West Ridge", "grade": "1,II", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": "0m", "pitches": [ { "alpine": "1", "commitment": "II", "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": null } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": "0", "natural_pro": false, "description": "Ascend the large creek draining under Mt Stratford to the 400m contour and pick up the broad spur beginning at BX14 339 542. Follow this to the bushline and on to the summit block.", "ascent": null } ], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/main-divide-of-the-southern-alps/mt-pope": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/main-divide-of-the-southern-alps/mt-pope", "name": "Mt Pope", "altitude": "1720m", "access": null, "description": "na", "latlng": [ "-42.938894", "171.371784" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/main-divide-of-the-southern-alps/mt-pope/popes-pass", "name": "From Popes Pass", "grade": "1-", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "A walk from Popes Pass." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": null } ], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/1720": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/1720", "name": "Pt 1720", "altitude": "1720m", "access": null, "description": null, "latlng": [ "-45.41191714", "167.44097144" ], "routes": [], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/1720-0": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/1720-0", "name": "Pt 1720", "altitude": "1720m", "access": null, "description": null, "latlng": [ "-44.87278735", "167.73347321" ], "routes": [], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/arthurs-pass/snow-cup-range/mt-morrison": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/arthurs-pass/snow-cup-range/mt-morrison", "name": "Mt Morrison", "altitude": "1720m", "access": null, "description": "Snow Cup Range", "latlng": [ "-42.81423287", "171.84436991" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/mt-morrison/south-ridge", "name": "South Ridge", "grade": null, "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": "From south end of Lake Minchin, make your way (SE) about 100m-200m through\nthe beech trees to the big scree that comes down from the open tops south of\npoint 1471. Ascend scree to the tops and then head north along Snow Cup\nRange, over points 1564 and 1714 and then finally onto Mt Morrison at 1720m.\nDaryll Thomson, March 2017", "ascent": null } ], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/arthurs-pass/mt-williams": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/arthurs-pass/mt-williams", "name": "Mt Williams", "altitude": "1718m", "access": null, "description": null, "latlng": [ "-42.9610708", "171.62708759" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/arthurs-pass/mt-williams/mid-mingha-river", "name": "From Mid Mingha River", "grade": "1", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": "1", "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "Reached from the mid Mingha River, by climbing (bashing) the steep bushy spur almost opposite the southern end of the Dudley Knob track. This route joins the Mt Williams North Ridge near a prominent buttress. Mt Williams is an easy climb from here." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "E. Wilson, July 1930" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/arthurs-pass/mt-williams/edwards-hut", "name": "From Edwards Hut", "grade": "1", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": "1", "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "An easy climb from Williams Saddle near the Edwards Hut. Williams Saddle is gained by climbing the tussock/scree slope opposite Edwards Hut, aiming for the gap between the two prominent rock buttresses then sidling to the saddle." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": null }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/arthurs-pass/mt-williams/gunbarrel-scree", "name": "Gunbarrel Scree", "grade": "2", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": "2", "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "Approached via the long, very steep, dangerous, scree chute just downstream of the East Edwards River confluence. This chute is known locally as the Gunbarrel Scree. A quick observation of the riverbed should leave you in no doubt as to why! Climb the scree upwards and southwards into a narrow gut joining the saddle between the two peaks. Both summits can be climbed on rotten rock from this point. Wear a helmet, and keep looking up! A dangerous route." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": null }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/arthurs-pass/mt-williams/south-west-ridge", "name": "South West Ridge", "grade": "2+,II", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": "2+", "commitment": "II", "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": null } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": "Climb the South West Ridge from the Mingha\u2013Edwards confluence onto The Spike (1440m). Beyond this, the route was formerly known as the Razorback route onto Mt Williams and it does not disappoint. It includes several very exposed climbs over and around jagged gendarmes, and some loose inclined slab climbs. In winter other joyful obstacles may include a corniced summit cap.", "ascent": null } ], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/1718": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/1718", "name": "Patutu", "altitude": "1718m", "access": null, "description": null, "latlng": [ "-39.24868079", "175.8501515" ], "routes": [], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aspiring/main-divide/mt-bertha": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aspiring/main-divide/mt-bertha", "name": "Mt Bertha", "altitude": "1717m", "access": null, "description": null, "latlng": [ "-44.10892217", "169.20880965" ], "routes": [], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/arthurs-pass/st-andrews%E2%80%93poulter-mountains/brown-hill": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/arthurs-pass/st-andrews%E2%80%93poulter-mountains/brown-hill", "name": "Brown Hill", "altitude": "1716m", "access": null, "description": null, "latlng": [ "-42.93672468", "171.84941529" ], "routes": [], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/1715": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/1715", "name": "Pt 1715", "altitude": "1715m", "access": null, "description": null, "latlng": [ "-42.8784089", "171.70116168" ], "routes": [], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/1715-0": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/1715-0", "name": "Pt 1715", "altitude": "1715m", "access": null, "description": null, "latlng": [ "-42.32229443", "173.06065573" ], "routes": [], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/fiordland/murchison-mountains/dana-pks": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/fiordland/murchison-mountains/dana-pks", "name": "Dana Pks", "altitude": "1715m", "access": null, "description": null, "latlng": [ "-45.21646265", "167.59885868" ], "routes": [], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/fiordland/murchison-mountains/dana-pks-0": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/fiordland/murchison-mountains/dana-pks-0", "name": "Dana Pks", "altitude": "1713m", "access": null, "description": null, "latlng": [ "-45.2132", "167.5896" ], "routes": [], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aspiring/marks-range/mt-action": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aspiring/marks-range/mt-action", "name": "Mt Action", "altitude": "1710m", "access": null, "description": null, "latlng": [ "-44.04225664", "169.18182833" ], "routes": [], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/%C5%8Dhau-landsborough/solution-range/mt-solution": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/%C5%8Dhau-landsborough/solution-range/mt-solution", "name": "Mt Solution", "altitude": "1710m", "access": null, "description": null, "latlng": [ "-43.89478487", "169.6509312" ], "routes": [], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/darrans/wick-mountains/mt-wilmur": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/darrans/wick-mountains/mt-wilmur", "name": "Mt Wilmur", "altitude": "1710m", "access": null, "description": null, "latlng": [ "-44.785551", "167.796121" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/darrans/wick-mountains/mt-wilmur/south-ridge", "name": "South Ridge", "grade": null, "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": "800m", "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": "800m", "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": null } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": "0", "natural_pro": false, "description": "Climb to Pt 1273 from the head of the Roaring Burn and follow the ridge to the summit.", "ascent": "Jack Murrell, Edgar Williams, February 1914" } ], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/arthurs-pass/savannah-range/smooth-pk": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/arthurs-pass/savannah-range/smooth-pk", "name": "Smooth Pk", "altitude": "1710m", "access": null, "description": "tba", "latlng": [ "-42.88781946", "171.7647171" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/arthurs-pass/savannah-range/smooth-pk/hawdon-biv", "name": "From Hawdon Biv", "grade": "1,I", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": "1", "commitment": "I", "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": null } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": "Climbed from the East Branch of the Hawdon River. From the Hawdon Biv follow the spur at the con\u00dfuence of the streams until clear of the small gorge, then sidle towards the saddle at the head of the valley between the peaks. A return trip from Smooth Peak can be made to the junction of the East Hawdon with the main valley over three higher unnamed peaks.", "ascent": null } ], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/arthurs-pass/st-andrews%E2%80%93poulter-mountains/pt-1709": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/arthurs-pass/st-andrews%E2%80%93poulter-mountains/pt-1709", "name": "Pt 1709", "altitude": "1709m", "access": null, "description": null, "latlng": [ "-42.96715383", "171.83168166" ], "routes": [], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/lewis-pass-harper-pass/nina%E2%80%93doubtful-mountains/pt-1708": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/lewis-pass-harper-pass/nina%E2%80%93doubtful-mountains/pt-1708", "name": "Pt 1708", "altitude": "1708m", "access": null, "description": null, "latlng": [ "-42.50573255", "172.32832178" ], "routes": [], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/mt-st-andrew": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/mt-st-andrew", "name": "Mt St Andrew", "altitude": "1708m", "access": null, "description": null, "latlng": [ "-42.51844566", "172.52655411" ], "routes": [], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/red-mountain": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/red-mountain", "name": "Red Mountain", "altitude": "1705m", "access": null, "description": null, "latlng": [ "-44.32126276", "168.3441687" ], "routes": [], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/fiordland/caroline-pk": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/fiordland/caroline-pk", "name": "Caroline Pk", "altitude": "1704m", "access": null, "description": "Above Lake Hauroko.", "latlng": [ "-45.94470725", "167.19508306" ], "routes": [], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/mt-pfeifer": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/mt-pfeifer", "name": "Mt Pfeifer", "altitude": "1704m", "access": null, "description": null, "latlng": [ "-42.80697629", "171.67454615" ], "routes": [], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/mt-skedaddle": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/mt-skedaddle", "name": "Mt Skedaddle", "altitude": "1704m", "access": null, "description": null, "latlng": [ "-42.67952168", "172.50944318" ], "routes": [], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/fiordland/darran-mountains/te-hau": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/fiordland/darran-mountains/te-hau", "name": "Te Hau", "altitude": "1703m", "access": null, "description": "Darran Mountains", "latlng": [ "-44.54925532", "167.91764445" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/fiordland/darran-mountains/te-hau/original-route", "name": "Original Route", "grade": null, "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "Begin from Lake Pukutahi." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Paul Powell, Roland Rodda, Dec 1946." } ], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/arthurs-pass/mt-o%E2%80%99malley": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/arthurs-pass/mt-o%E2%80%99malley", "name": "Mt O\u2019Malley", "altitude": "1703m", "access": null, "description": null, "latlng": [ "-42.94681075", "171.59472942" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/arthurs-pass/mt-oe28099malley/basin-route", "name": "Basin Route", "grade": "1", "topo_ref": "1", "image": null, "images": [], "length": "0m", "pitches": [ { "alpine": "1", "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "From the basins to the south of the 1844m rise on the MT AICKEN ridge. A descent off the mountain is possible down Bretts Stream, but beware of huge loose rocks at its head." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": "0", "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": null } ], "places": [], "image": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/wide/public/image/mt%2520aicken-from%2520avalanche%2520peak-routemark.jpg?itok=5IS8lDbu", "images": [ { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/wide/public/image/mt%2520aicken-from%2520avalanche%2520peak-routemark.jpg?itok=5IS8lDbu", "height": "675", "width": "900" } ] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/kahurangi/arthur-range/mt-patriarch": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/kahurangi/arthur-range/mt-patriarch", "name": "Mt Patriarch", "altitude": "1701m", "access": "via Kiwi Saddle Hut", "description": "Peak at Southern end of the Arthur Range", "latlng": null, "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/kahurangi/arthur-range/mt-patriarch/mt-patriarch", "name": "Mt Patriarch", "grade": "1", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": "1", "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "A good viewpoint and holding a commanding position over the Wangapeka River, the north summit of Patriarch is easily reached from Kiwi Saddle Hut (6 bunks, standard). Descend, cross a narrow razorback ridge, and climb up to the south summit. A good ridge trip is along the Arthur Range to Mt Baldy (1542m), Mt Gomorrah (1592m), and its associate Mt Sodom (1565m)." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": null } ], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/mt-campbell-0": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/mt-campbell-0", "name": "Mt Campbell", "altitude": "1700m", "access": null, "description": null, "latlng": [ "-45.25765027", "168.20777237" ], "routes": [], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/mt-winterslow": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/mt-winterslow", "name": "Mt Winterslow", "altitude": "1700m", "access": null, "description": null, "latlng": [ "-43.58122452", "171.39263158" ], "routes": [], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/darrans/earl-mountains/pt-1698": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/darrans/earl-mountains/pt-1698", "name": "Pt 1698", "altitude": "1698m", "access": null, "description": null, "latlng": [ "-44.93481124", "167.97158899" ], "routes": [], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/nelson-lakes-kaik%C5%8Dura/black-birch-range/altimarloch": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/nelson-lakes-kaik%C5%8Dura/black-birch-range/altimarloch", "name": "Altimarloch", "altitude": "1696m", "access": null, "description": null, "latlng": [ "-41.75343418", "173.77568487" ], "routes": [], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/arthurs-pass/craigieburn-range/mt-ida": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/arthurs-pass/craigieburn-range/mt-ida", "name": "Mt Ida", "altitude": "1695m", "access": null, "description": "An outlier from the southern Craigieburn Range, east of Lake Catherine.", "latlng": [ "-43.21666689", "171.53148325" ], "routes": [], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/canterbury-westland-alps/newton-range/mt-newton": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/canterbury-westland-alps/newton-range/mt-newton", "name": "Mt Newton", "altitude": "1695m", "access": null, "description": null, "latlng": [ "-42.87363997", "171.33525859" ], "routes": [], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/otago/obelisk-range/obelisk": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/otago/obelisk-range/obelisk", "name": "Obelisk", "altitude": "1695m", "access": null, "description": null, "latlng": [ "-45.32330861", "169.20762827" ], "routes": [], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/lewis-pass-harper-pass/upper-grey%E2%80%93ahaura-mountains/pt-1695": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/lewis-pass-harper-pass/upper-grey%E2%80%93ahaura-mountains/pt-1695", "name": "Pt 1695", "altitude": "1695m", "access": null, "description": null, "latlng": [ "-42.45256487", "172.18422782" ], "routes": [], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/kahurangi/lockett-range/iron-hill": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/kahurangi/lockett-range/iron-hill", "name": "Iron Hill", "altitude": "1695m", "access": null, "description": null, "latlng": [ "-41.10068772", "172.60972555" ], "routes": [], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/fiordland/kepler-mountains/pt-1694": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/fiordland/kepler-mountains/pt-1694", "name": "Pt 1694", "altitude": "1694m", "access": null, "description": null, "latlng": [ "-45.25679128", "167.32947703" ], "routes": [], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/1694-0": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/1694-0", "name": "Pt 1694", "altitude": "1694m", "access": null, "description": null, "latlng": [ "-42.4483397", "172.96958238" ], "routes": [], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/ni/taupo/kaimanawa-mountains/karikaringa": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/ni/taupo/kaimanawa-mountains/karikaringa", "name": "Karikaringa", "altitude": "1694m", "access": null, "description": null, "latlng": [ "-39.20632898", "175.88547585" ], "routes": [], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/nelson-lakes/freyberg-range/mt-cann": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/nelson-lakes/freyberg-range/mt-cann", "name": "Mt Cann", "altitude": "1693m", "access": null, "description": null, "latlng": [ "-42.14923609", "172.33338326" ], "routes": [], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/nelson-lakes-kaik%C5%8Dura/crimea-range/mt-southey": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/nelson-lakes-kaik%C5%8Dura/crimea-range/mt-southey", "name": "Mt Southey", "altitude": "1691m", "access": null, "description": null, "latlng": [ "-42.19506583", "172.75181578" ], "routes": [], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/darrans/mistake-creek/pt-1690": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/darrans/mistake-creek/pt-1690", "name": "Pt 1690", "altitude": "1690m", "access": "See Mistake Creek track.", "description": "East of Melita Peak overlooking Lake Gunn and the Cascade Creek Campsite. A c.6 hour return hike from Mistake Creek track through immersive forest and open ridges to reach the summit blocks.\nAfter approximately 2.5km leave the Mistake Creek track and head east towards the flat saddle north of the small rise of Pt 547. Then find your way up the steep forested ridge leading from this saddle. Requires negotiation of deep moss and fallen trees before emerging from the forest at contour c.1160. Summit approached from the western scree slopes and then rocky eastern ridge to avoid the lose rock and drop-offs on the eastern flanks above Cascade Creek Campsite.", "latlng": [ "-44.87746", "168.06084" ], "routes": [], "places": [], "image": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/wide/public/image/Rough%20line%20of%20route.jpg?itok=P-B_eexz", "images": [ { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/wide/public/image/Rough%20line%20of%20route.jpg?itok=P-B_eexz", "height": "745", "width": "419" }, { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/image/The%20track.jpg?itok=Ny5xRsBZ", "height": "244", "width": "325" }, { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/image/SI%20Robin.jpg?itok=QlMWiG2K", "height": "244", "width": "325" }, { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/image/Ridge%20to%20top.jpg?itok=RYliUuSY", "height": "244", "width": "325" }, { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/image/Looking%20down%20the%20Eglington%20River.jpg?itok=y8TxVcJG", "height": "244", "width": "325" } ] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/c58dhau-landsborough/ben-ohau-range/pt-1690": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/c58dhau-landsborough/ben-ohau-range/pt-1690", "name": "Pt 1690", "altitude": "1690m", "access": null, "description": "Above Lake \u014chau.", "latlng": [ "-44.22035119", "169.92317162" ], "routes": [], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/lewis-pass-harper-pass/nelson-tops/pt-1688": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/lewis-pass-harper-pass/nelson-tops/pt-1688", "name": "Pt 1688", "altitude": "1688m", "access": null, "description": null, "latlng": [ "-42.62179717", "172.18077087" ], "routes": [], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aspiring/olivine-range/dagon-west": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aspiring/olivine-range/dagon-west", "name": "Dagon West", "altitude": "1687m", "access": null, "description": null, "latlng": [ "-44.19191271", "168.60613535" ], "routes": [], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/ni/manawatu-whanganui/ruahine-range/te-atuaoparapara": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/ni/manawatu-whanganui/ruahine-range/te-atuaoparapara", "name": "Te Atuaoparapara", "altitude": "1687m", "access": null, "description": null, "latlng": [ "-39.79707879", "176.14526351" ], "routes": [], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/kahurangi-richmond/gordon-range/gordons-top": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/kahurangi-richmond/gordon-range/gordons-top", "name": "Gordons Top", "altitude": "1685m", "access": null, "description": null, "latlng": [ "-41.61009525", "172.9449338" ], "routes": [], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/fiordland/dingwall-mountains/mt-crowfoot": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/fiordland/dingwall-mountains/mt-crowfoot", "name": "Mt Crowfoot", "altitude": "1685m", "access": null, "description": null, "latlng": [ "-45.55283115", "167.04472547" ], "routes": [], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/southland/livingstone-mountains/mt-eldon-north": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/southland/livingstone-mountains/mt-eldon-north", "name": "Mt Eldon North", "altitude": "1684m", "access": null, "description": null, "latlng": [ "-45.25294637", "168.13796825" ], "routes": [], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/fiordland/stuart-mountains/pt-1684": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/fiordland/stuart-mountains/pt-1684", "name": "Pt 1684", "altitude": "1684m", "access": null, "description": null, "latlng": [ "-45.07524106", "167.62601253" ], "routes": [], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/%C5%8Dhau-landsborough/timaru%E2%80%93lindis-mountains/corner-pk": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/%C5%8Dhau-landsborough/timaru%E2%80%93lindis-mountains/corner-pk", "name": "Corner Pk", "altitude": "1683m", "access": null, "description": "Above Lake Hawea.", "latlng": [ "-44.48355663", "169.34333203" ], "routes": [], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/darrans/llawrenny-mountains/mitre-pk": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/darrans/llawrenny-mountains/mitre-pk", "name": "Mitre Pk", "altitude": "1683m", "access": "Be aware that a considerable day-breeze picks up on the water by mid-afternoon. The fiord can become choppy and unforgiving.", "description": "The popularity of Mitre Peak as a tourist icon, and the increasing accessibility of kayaks in the sound, has led to more and more ascents in recent years. Kayaking across to the base in the early mornings makes Mitre Peak a unique climbing experience found nowhere else in New Zealand. Still well worth the adventure, although recent parties have complained of seeing increasing rubbish and human waste.", "latlng": [ "-44.632881", "167.856238" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/darrans/llawrenny-mountains/mitre-pk/traverse-three-peaks", "name": "Traverse of Three Peaks", "grade": null, "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "From west to east." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Ted Coates, John Howard, 1973." }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/darrans/llawrenny-mountains/mitre-pk/east-ridge", "name": "East Ridge", "grade": "2,I", "topo_ref": null, "image": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/route/P1200612.JPG?itok=v774UOdz", "images": [ { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/route/P1200612.JPG?itok=v774UOdz", "height": "244", "width": "325" } ], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": "2", "commitment": "I", "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "From Deepwater Basin either take a water taxi or kayak out into the Fiord, following the edge of the shore till Sinbad Gully is reached. From the beach at Sinbad Gully head up the broad ridge over recent tree fall (2014) until a faint trail through the bush is reached along with the crest of the ridge. Traverse over the Footstool and descend to a saddle, which provides the only water (puddles) and a couple of camp spots on route. Then follow the ridge as it climbs to the high peak." } ], "quality": 3, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "J Dennistoun, 1910." } ], "places": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/darrans/llawrenny-mountains/mitre-pk/mitre-pk-middle-pk", "name": "Mitre Pk Middle Pk", "altitude": "1685m", "access": null, "description": null, "latlng": [ "-44.63003589", "167.84381969" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/darrans/llawrenny-mountains/mitre-pk/mitre-pk-middle-pk/east-ridge", "name": "East Ridge", "grade": null, "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "Continue from the High Peak via the East Ridge." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Ron Chapman, Colin Fearon, Dec 1961." }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/darrans/llawrenny-mountains/mitre-pk/mitre-pk-middle-pk/south-west-face", "name": "South West Face", "grade": "14", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": "500m", "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": "500m", "bolts": null, "trad": true, "ewbank": "14", "description": "Access was via Footstool and along Mitre Pk SE ridge to about 1300m. We then dropped onto the sloping ledges to the south of Mitre Pk and traversed to the base of the climb." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": true, "description": "About 5 pitches (200m) up good rock. Crux was about grade 14 on about the 4th pitch. Remaining 300m was easy scrambling.", "ascent": "Mike Berry, Brian Renwick, about 1977" } ], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/darrans/llawrenny-mountains/mitre-pk/mitre-pk-high-pk", "name": "Mitre Pk High Pk", "altitude": "1721m", "access": null, "description": null, "latlng": [ "-44.62711864", "167.83903636" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/darrans/llawrenny-mountains/mitre-pk/mitre-pk-high-pk/north-face", "name": "North Face", "grade": null, "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "Two American climbers began at sea level from a buttress just left of a large landslide scar, arriving at the High Peak after four days and 25cm of rain!" } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "J Evans, J Foot, Mar 1965." }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/darrans/llawrenny-mountains/mitre-pk/mitre-pk-high-pk/west-ridge", "name": "West Ridge", "grade": null, "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "Follow the ridge from Anita Bay to the West Peak" } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "TW Preston and Party, Jan 1926." } ], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] } ], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/fiordland/franklin-mountains/pt-1682": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/fiordland/franklin-mountains/pt-1682", "name": "Pt 1682", "altitude": "1682m", "access": null, "description": null, "latlng": [ "-44.82666275", "167.67174712" ], "routes": [], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/1682-0": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/1682-0", "name": "Pt 1682", "altitude": "1682m", "access": null, "description": null, "latlng": [ "-45.14445609", "168.21711373" ], "routes": [], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/fiordland/murchison-mountains/black-cone": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/fiordland/murchison-mountains/black-cone", "name": "Black Cone", "altitude": "1681m", "access": null, "description": null, "latlng": [ "-45.30396327", "167.61878784" ], "routes": [], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/fiordland/darran-mountains/ongaruanuku": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/fiordland/darran-mountains/ongaruanuku", "name": "Ongaruanuku", "altitude": "1681m", "access": null, "description": "tba", "latlng": [ "-44.54275", "167.97168" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/fiordland/darran-mountains/ongaruanuku/original-route", "name": "Original Route", "grade": null, "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "Climb via the ridge from Troglodyte Peak." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Mike Gill, I Bieleski, Jan 1958." }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/fiordland/darran-mountains/ongaruanuku/south-west-face-south-east-ridge", "name": "South west face to south east ridge", "grade": null, "topo_ref": "NZTopo50-CA08", "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": "From tarns just below (east) of Harrison-John O'Groats saddle, ascend obvious\nsteep gully through cliffs below peak 1627m. Sidle peak 1627m then descend\ntowards Ongaruanuku. Scramble up and across southwest face then climb the\nsteep gut to the obvious notch on the southeast ridge. Climb southeast ridge\n(on Kaipo side) to summit.", "ascent": "Grant Dixon 15-3-2014" } ], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/arthurs-pass/craigieburn-range/purple-hill": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/arthurs-pass/craigieburn-range/purple-hill", "name": "Purple Hill", "altitude": "1680m", "access": null, "description": "An outlier from the northern Craigieburn Range, east of Lake Pearson.", "latlng": [ "-43.10920568", "171.81299515" ], "routes": [], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/arthurs-pass/poulter-range/mt-row": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/arthurs-pass/poulter-range/mt-row", "name": "Mt Row", "altitude": "1679m", "access": "Best accessed from the Trust Poulter Hut via Thompson Stream ( a tributary of the Poulter River)", "description": "Mt Row is at the Northern end of the Poulter Range", "latlng": [ "-42.80377659", "171.92213058" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/arthurs-pass/poulter-range/mt-row/mt-row-from-trust-poulter-hut", "name": "Mt Row from Trust Poulter Hut", "grade": "1", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": "1", "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "A nice day trip from the hut.-Follow Thompson Stream and gain the Poulter Range Ridge where a prominent slip scar allows access. The bush either side of the slip is negotiable Then follow the main ridge to the summit." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": null } ], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aspiring/humboldt-mountains/fiery-pk": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aspiring/humboldt-mountains/fiery-pk", "name": "Fiery Pk", "altitude": "1679m", "access": null, "description": "", "latlng": [ "-44.54022", "168.223924" ], "routes": [], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/arthurs-pass/savannah-range/rugged-pk": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/arthurs-pass/savannah-range/rugged-pk", "name": "Rugged Pk", "altitude": "1678m", "access": null, "description": "tba", "latlng": [ "-42.8826625", "171.75420284" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/arthurs-pass/savannah-range/rugged-pk/trudge-col", "name": "From Trudge Col", "grade": "1,I", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": "1", "commitment": "I", "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": null } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": "Climbed from Trudge Col at the head of the Hawdon Valley. (Grade. 1+) A traverse between RUGGED and SMOOTH PEAKS includes a steep gap in the ridge. (Grade.2-)", "ascent": null } ], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/fiordland/kepler-mountains/pt-1677": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/fiordland/kepler-mountains/pt-1677", "name": "Pt 1677", "altitude": "1677m", "access": null, "description": null, "latlng": [ "-45.44915221", "167.44634361" ], "routes": [], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/1677-0": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/1677-0", "name": "Pt 1677", "altitude": "1677m", "access": null, "description": null, "latlng": [ "-45.43311452", "167.45045302" ], "routes": [], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/darrans/wick-mountains/pt-1675": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/darrans/wick-mountains/pt-1675", "name": "Pt 1675", "altitude": "1675m", "access": null, "description": null, "latlng": [ "-44.75346971", "167.8264922" ], "routes": [], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/darrans/llawrenny-mountains/pt-1674": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/darrans/llawrenny-mountains/pt-1674", "name": "Pt 1674", "altitude": "1674m", "access": null, "description": null, "latlng": [ "-44.68692968", "167.79066728" ], "routes": [], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/canterbury/high-claytons/high-clayton": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/canterbury/high-claytons/high-clayton", "name": "High Clayton", "altitude": "1674m", "access": null, "description": null, "latlng": [ "-43.81577924", "170.96739082" ], "routes": [], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/mt-edgar": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/mt-edgar", "name": "Mt Edgar", "altitude": "1673m", "access": null, "description": null, "latlng": [ "-44.73101174", "167.74878732" ], "routes": [], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/lewis-pass-harper-pass/glynn-wye-range/mt-skiddaw": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/lewis-pass-harper-pass/glynn-wye-range/mt-skiddaw", "name": "Mt Skiddaw", "altitude": "1673m", "access": null, "description": null, "latlng": [ "-42.66033446", "172.44860927" ], "routes": [], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/arthurs-pass/black-range/pt-1672": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/arthurs-pass/black-range/pt-1672", "name": "Pt 1672", "altitude": "1672m", "access": null, "description": null, "latlng": [ "-43.06561718", "171.61983317" ], "routes": [], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/fiordland/kepler-mountains/south-kidd": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/fiordland/kepler-mountains/south-kidd", "name": "South Kidd", "altitude": "1672m", "access": null, "description": null, "latlng": [ "-45.32827156", "167.37103726" ], "routes": [], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/fiordland/murchison-mountains/pt-1671": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/fiordland/murchison-mountains/pt-1671", "name": "Pt 1671", "altitude": "1671m", "access": null, "description": null, "latlng": [ "-45.16339876", "167.39345844" ], "routes": [], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/canterbury/wild-mans-brother-range/pt-1670": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/canterbury/wild-mans-brother-range/pt-1670", "name": "Pt 1670", "altitude": "1670m", "access": null, "description": null, "latlng": [ "-43.46752444", "171.08289459" ], "routes": [], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/1670-0": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/1670-0", "name": "Pt 1670", "altitude": "1670m", "access": null, "description": null, "latlng": [ "-41.59118969", "173.06729145" ], "routes": [], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/nelson-lakes-kaik%C5%8Dura/black-birch-range/ferny-gair": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/nelson-lakes-kaik%C5%8Dura/black-birch-range/ferny-gair", "name": "Ferny Gair", "altitude": "1670m", "access": null, "description": null, "latlng": [ "-41.78030193", "173.65209579" ], "routes": [], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/otago/dunstan-mountains/dunstan": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/otago/dunstan-mountains/dunstan", "name": "Dunstan", "altitude": "1668m", "access": null, "description": null, "latlng": [ "-45.047586", "169.37545225" ], "routes": [], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/fiordland/merrie-range/pt-1666": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/fiordland/merrie-range/pt-1666", "name": "Pt 1666", "altitude": "1666m", "access": null, "description": null, "latlng": [ "-45.72360689", "167.21110232" ], "routes": [], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/fiordland/franklin-mountains/pt-1665": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/fiordland/franklin-mountains/pt-1665", "name": "Pt 1665", "altitude": "1665m", "access": null, "description": null, "latlng": [ "-44.99280358", "167.73530817" ], "routes": [], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/%C5%8Dhau-landsborough/timaru%E2%80%93lindis-mountains/dromedary-hill": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/%C5%8Dhau-landsborough/timaru%E2%80%93lindis-mountains/dromedary-hill", "name": "Dromedary Hill", "altitude": "1664m", "access": null, "description": null, "latlng": [ "-44.49364475", "169.64600433" ], "routes": [], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/canterbury/st-james-range/mt-maria": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/canterbury/st-james-range/mt-maria", "name": "Mt Maria", "altitude": "1663m", "access": null, "description": null, "latlng": [ "-42.36400828", "172.63700421" ], "routes": [], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/kahurangi/douglas-range/dragons-teeth": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/kahurangi/douglas-range/dragons-teeth", "name": "Dragon's Teeth", "altitude": "1663m", "access": "via Adelaide Tarn Hut", "description": "A striking series of very steep and rugged tooth-shaped peaks; one of the northern teeth can be climbed fairly easily, from the northern end of the Douglas Range.", "latlng": null, "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/kahurangi/douglas-range/dragons-teeth/dragons-teeth", "name": "Dragon's Teeth", "grade": "2", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": "2", "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "Climb tussock slopes above Adelaide Tarn Hut (4 bunks, basic) to a saddle above, and locate cairns which mark a route that sidles near the bushline on the southern slopes of Mt Douglas and into a gulch along the ridge. Continue on the eastern side of the ridge, where occasional cairns and blazes mark a route through bush to an open snowgrass and slab section below a tooth. Climb directly up snowgrass and scree to the top.\r\n\r\n(Route note: It is possible to follow more cairns and blazes onto Anatoki Peak, but it is a demanding route and requires a rope to climb a steep exposed rock cliff. This is tiger country with no easy exits. For the well-prepared who wish to try it: From below the northern tooth, follow the first ridge up for 50m, then sidle across, down to the bush edge, where there is a large cairn. Follow blazes through bush. The route then goes along the side of a steep spur. Cross a stream and down through a patch of bush before coming out on a scrubby ledge (small campsite here). Along the ledge, a coil of wire indicates the start of a zigzag \u2018staircase\u2019 with small blazes, which leads up a scrubby 70m cliff. Then climb diagonally up steep rock (a rope should be used on this pitch) to the ridge and cairns at the top. Cross to the next spur beyond the tarn, sidling down in a southerly direction, through slabs past the tarn. From two cairns, go down a spur on snowgrass or slabs for 100m, directly to the bush. Look for markers to the left of and below an enormous rock in the bush. Bushcrash for 30m, climb a bank, then follow down an open ledge. The route crosses prominent streams to a rocky creek. Beyond the creek, climb a steep 70m bushy face to the ridge east of Anatoki Peak )" } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": null } ], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/canterbury/sylvia-tops": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/canterbury/sylvia-tops", "name": "Sylvia Tops", "altitude": "1662m", "access": null, "description": "tba", "latlng": [ "-42.4794", "172.3417" ], "routes": [], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/kahurangi/douglas-range/anatoki-pk": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/kahurangi/douglas-range/anatoki-pk", "name": "Anatoki Pk", "altitude": "1662m", "access": null, "description": "Anatoki Peak is at the Northern end of the Douglas range.\nThis spectacular area of steep craggy peaks is well worth a visit. The best approach is from Drunken Sailors, which can be reached by following the route north along the Douglas Range to Lonely Lake Hut (3 bunks, basic). A good alternative approach is from the Anatoki River, following a bush spur south-west from map ref. M26/741269.\nApproach from the North via Adelaide Tarn Hut is also possible", "latlng": [ "-40.96006721", "172.54096985" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/kahurangi/douglas-range/anatoki-pk/drunken-sailors-route-grade-1", "name": "Drunken Sailors Route Grade 1+", "grade": "1", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": "1", "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "Occasional cairns mark the route, which mostly keeps at about 1440m, below the range crest. Good route finding skills essential. A rock slab halfway along can be crossed at its toe. Wonderful tarns and campsites on the ridge east of Anatoki Peak, and an easy scramble to the top." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": null }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/kahurangi/douglas-range/anatoki-pk/anotaki-adelaide-tarn-hut-grade-2", "name": "Anotaki from Adelaide Tarn Hut Grade 2", "grade": "2", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": "2", "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "Climb tussock slopes above Adelaide Tarn Hut (4 bunks, basic) to a saddle above, and locate cairns which mark a route that sidles near the bushline on the southern slopes of Mt Douglas and into a gulch along the ridge. Continue on the eastern side of the ridge, where occasional cairns and blazes mark a route through bush to an open snowgrass and slab section below a tooth. (Climb directly up snowgrass and scree to the top as a side trip.)\r\nFollow more cairns and blazes onto Anatoki Peak, but it is a demanding route and requires a rope to climb a steep exposed rock cliff. This is tiger country with no easy exits. For the well-prepared who wish to try it: From below the northern tooth, follow the first ridge up for 50m, then sidle across, down to the bush edge, where there is a large cairn. Follow blazes through bush. The route then goes along the side of a steep spur. Cross a stream and down through a patch of bush before coming out on a scrubby ledge (small campsite here). Along the ledge, a coil of wire indicates the start of a zigzag \u2018staircase\u2019 with small blazes, which leads up a scrubby 70m cliff. Then climb diagonally up steep rock (a rope should be used on this pitch) to the ridge and cairns at the top. Cross to the next spur beyond the tarn, sidling down in a southerly direction, through slabs past the tarn. From two cairns, go down a spur on snowgrass or slabs for 100m, directly to the bush. Look for markers to the left of and below an enormous rock in the bush. Bushcrash for 30m, climb a bank, then follow down an open ledge. The route crosses prominent streams to a rocky creek. Beyond the creek, climb a steep 70m bushy face to the ridge east of Anatoki Peak" } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": null } ], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/fiordland/mt-soaker-west": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/fiordland/mt-soaker-west", "name": "Mt Soaker West", "altitude": "1661m", "access": null, "description": null, "latlng": [ "-45.38029842", "167.23668061" ], "routes": [], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/fiordland/stuart-mountains/pt-1658": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/fiordland/stuart-mountains/pt-1658", "name": "Pt 1658", "altitude": "1658m", "access": null, "description": null, "latlng": [ "-45.0377041", "167.63330359" ], "routes": [], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/1658-0": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/1658-0", "name": "Pt 1658", "altitude": "1658m", "access": null, "description": null, "latlng": [ "-45.06112459", "167.47970826" ], "routes": [], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/arthurs-pass/birdwood-range/gargarus": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/arthurs-pass/birdwood-range/gargarus", "name": "Gargarus", "altitude": "1655m", "access": null, "description": null, "latlng": [ "-43.18732044", "171.49035559" ], "routes": [], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/darrans/wick-mountains/charismatic-wall-pt-1655": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/darrans/wick-mountains/charismatic-wall-pt-1655", "name": "Charismatic Wall (Pt 1655)", "altitude": "1655m", "access": "Park below the Cleddau number 3 bridge and walk upstream on true left for about 50m to pick up flagged track which soon veers away across swampy forest. After about 250m reach the bottom of a rocky creek bed and follow this to base of wall and the neck of the prominent forested knob under the wall. Up steep bush with some hand-lines and then traverse left to base of access slabs.", "description": null, "latlng": [ "-44.747282", "167.93551" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/darrans/wick-mountains/charismatic-wall-pt-1655/charismatic-movement-marketing-council", "name": "The Charismatic Movement Marketing Council", "grade": "23", "topo_ref": null, "image": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/routes/B032234B-719A-4C2F-86BF-6CC4F68109C7.jpeg?itok=Y6vv1yY2", "images": [ { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/routes/B032234B-719A-4C2F-86BF-6CC4F68109C7.jpeg?itok=Y6vv1yY2", "height": "325", "width": "204" } ], "length": "404m", "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": "50m", "bolts": null, "trad": true, "ewbank": "19", "description": "From start flake climb straight up and through a short steep corner, moving right to belay in bottom of white left-facing corner." }, { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": "30m", "bolts": null, "trad": true, "ewbank": "12", "description": "Follow white leaning corner to peg belay." }, { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": "30m", "bolts": null, "trad": true, "ewbank": "17", "description": "Straight up obvious weakness then traverse right across slabs to bolt belay." }, { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": "52m", "bolts": null, "trad": true, "ewbank": "18", "description": "Traverse right across slabby wall; follow shallow left-facing groove into a steep corner. Continue up a few steps for belay on Privet Hedge Ledge. The pitch was split due to rope drag.\r\nPrivet Hedge Ledge: Spacious seating for two with gear. Stunning views, sheltered from space junk, ample protection in flake above." }, { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": "35m", "bolts": null, "trad": true, "ewbank": "20", "description": "Traverse right to a shallow left-facing open-book corner with small roof. Deviousness necessary to protect startling blank traverse low down. Finish on bolt belay." }, { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": "25m", "bolts": null, "trad": true, "ewbank": "20", "description": "Up groove two metres right of belay then step left through steep ground to open corner." }, { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": "45m", "bolts": null, "trad": true, "ewbank": "23", "description": "Up groove above belay onto wall: good gear in crack. Traverse right past bolt (crux) to mantle ledge. Continue up wall on positive ledges to more good gear and fixed peg. A small tensioned pendulum will get you past the crux at 21 / A0." }, { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": "12m", "bolts": null, "trad": true, "ewbank": "19", "description": "Up ar\u00eate to left of corner, then follow groove to a small slab and bolt belay." }, { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": "30m", "bolts": null, "trad": true, "ewbank": "20", "description": "Traverse left under roof thing to where it is breached by a weakness. Up then right to belay under overlap about seven metres above last belay." }, { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": "45m", "bolts": null, "trad": true, "ewbank": "15", "description": "A0, Follow dirty wet right-tending seam with a few aid moves. Belay as high on the easy ramp as possible." }, { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": "25m", "bolts": null, "trad": true, "ewbank": "16", "description": "Move out left from roof then up broken slabs to belay under gully things." }, { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": "25m", "bolts": null, "trad": true, "ewbank": "15", "description": "Climb right of roofs to grass, sun, places to sit and walk. Belay from rap bolt." } ], "quality": 1, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": true, "description": "The face on the truncated spur on the true left, seen from the tunnel portal. Access to the base of the wall is difficult and thickly vegetated, but the quality of the rock on the upper walls is well worth the adventure.\n14 pitches. Solid climbing around grade 20; some bolts and fixed gear. A possible bivvy ledge can be found at the top of the 4th pitch. The route was originally climbed over three weeks and involves a tricky approach from the Milford Road.\nHaul up on tussock trending right, traversing right 100m below the wall to a flat-looking area with a few trees. A difficult and exposed section of cliff trends up and right to the start of the technical climbing.\nPaul Rogers and Gareth Sharp abseiled down the line and climbed the top six or so pitches, placing belay anchors. Paul placed a bolt on lead through the crux section, swearing: 'those f*ckers have sand-bagged me...'\nDescent: nine or ten abseils. Pitches five and six would be difficult to retreat from without fixed lines but not impossible. Walking out to Homer via the ridge to Moir would be the best and safest option.", "ascent": "Gwilym Griffith-Jones, Daniel Meecham, February 1994" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/darrans/wick-mountains/charismatic-wall-pt-1655/uprising", "name": "Uprising", "grade": "24", "topo_ref": null, "image": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/routes/Uprising%20Topo.jpg?itok=VAsxCTq8", "images": [ { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/routes/Uprising%20Topo.jpg?itok=VAsxCTq8", "height": "325", "width": "230" } ], "length": "0m", "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": "24", "description": null } ], "quality": 2, "bolts": "0", "natural_pro": false, "description": "Supersedes and generally surpasses the first Charismatic route, while following a roughly similar line. 16\u201319 pitches. Double hangers are on belay only stations. Take about 15 draws, slings, full set of wires and cams up to #3 + a few extra wires and cams \u2248 finger crack size. 2x 60m+ropes.", "ascent": "Jon Sedon, Paul Rogers, Matt Evrard, Camille Berthoux, Bruce Dowrick, 27 December 2018" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/darrans/wick-mountains/charismatic-wall-pt-1655/wild-dykes", "name": "Wild Dykes", "grade": "23", "topo_ref": null, "image": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/routes/5A9A1CD0-DB56-44CE-B2D0-160A3A126E5F.jpeg?itok=lQUqhSWI", "images": [ { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/routes/5A9A1CD0-DB56-44CE-B2D0-160A3A126E5F.jpeg?itok=lQUqhSWI", "height": "325", "width": "244" }, { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/routes/4A19F059-6CD5-4F71-B3C9-EEF409700E8D.jpeg?itok=_hKdLh9E", "height": "244", "width": "325" } ], "length": "453m", "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": "30m", "bolts": "3", "trad": true, "ewbank": "21", "description": "Start on easy slab to a high first bolt head then up via small overhanging nose on trad to bolt on slab. Reach high to jug rail stepping right then up crack to belay. 3 bolts and trad" }, { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": "30m", "bolts": "2", "trad": true, "ewbank": "20", "description": "Step left off belay to a good cam then up and right following jugs on the dyke. 2 bolts and right traverse to anchor." }, { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": "30m", "bolts": "4", "trad": true, "ewbank": "19", "description": "Climb straight up past 4 bolts to a tricky move to a jug. After the forth bolt once standing on the face move left and follow an easy crack on the edge of the white dyke up to belay From there easy trad to anchor." }, { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": "25m", "bolts": "1", "trad": true, "ewbank": "18", "description": "Climb directly above the belay aiming for a good jug on the face right of the arete ( #2 cam fits in here. ) Follow finger crack right of jug up face to a bolt then easy run out up and left to anchor on ledge. Junction of Charismatic Marketing Movement." }, { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": "30m", "bolts": "5", "trad": true, "ewbank": "20", "description": "Climb up and right of belay to bolt. At second bolt climb carefully past hollow flakes. 5 bolts plus gear" }, { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": "30m", "bolts": "1", "trad": true, "ewbank": "15", "description": "Climb up and right following the clean slab to a bolt and friction move below the belay on a large ledge. Attention when rapping this pitch. Rope stretching 30m rap.\r\nBivy Ledge: 2 x 20L water buckets in position. Possible single bivy platforms for 2-3 people. 1 person at the belay and 1-2 people 15m below on a small ledge." }, { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": "18m", "bolts": "2", "trad": true, "ewbank": "17", "description": "Move up and right past two bolts to a hidden corner. Continue up this corner on trad to a ledge 120cm long slings at base of corner to avoid rope drag." }, { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": "30m", "bolts": "7", "trad": true, "ewbank": "22", "description": "Up and right past two bolts and hard moves under a small roof. Then up past gear and 5 more bolts to belay" }, { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": "25m", "bolts": "8", "trad": true, "ewbank": "20", "description": "Climb up and left off belay. Past 3 bolts to crux. Then follow jugs through overlap." }, { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": "25m", "bolts": "2", "trad": true, "ewbank": "18", "description": "Head right on ramp for 10m the up left facing corner. Look for bolt out right. Hand traverse out right to easy groove and belay." }, { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": "25m", "bolts": "4", "trad": true, "ewbank": "20", "description": "Head left off belay down low. Up past two bolts on wild prow. Join the right tending ramp with gear for 10 m and then up left past bolt and up. To easy left traverse To belay. On th\u00e9 ramp if you look up and right you see some of the bolts from the unfinished rap bolted line to the right of the route. Don\u2019t head up and right to the far bolt at the end of the ramp. The pitch heads up and back left to finish in the wet corner directly above the belay of pitch 9.\r\nThe rap line goes down this corner. 25m rap straight down corner, then 20m rap to reach belay of pitch 9." }, { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": "27m", "bolts": "4", "trad": true, "ewbank": "23", "description": "Single rack + 2x 0.75&1. Climb up hollow flake( be careful) past two bolts. Hard mantle and face above. Climb middle clean crack up and left to jugs at the lip. Up 5m to stance belay. Avoid chossy crack and blocks on the right." }, { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": "28m", "bolts": "3", "trad": true, "ewbank": "21", "description": "Single rack. Climb face above belay.then up right trending ramp for 5m. Head up. Place a # 1 then layback up the face past 2 bolts." }, { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": "28m", "bolts": "5", "trad": true, "ewbank": "21", "description": "Single rack to #3. Climb out left past dyke. Up slab past 3 bolts. At the 4th bolt stand up and go right up seam/ dyke. Step low at last bolt then up on jugs." }, { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": "27m", "bolts": "5", "trad": true, "ewbank": "17", "description": "Leave belay to the right and up ramp. Drift slowly right on slabs and overlaps. Wild Dykes joins the unfinished rap bolted project at the last bolt of this pitch. The final two pitches are shared with this route." }, { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": "20m", "bolts": "3", "trad": true, "ewbank": "16", "description": "Up slab and onto big flake. At top of flake straight up the face. Belay on the big ledge below the finger crack." }, { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": "25m", "bolts": null, "trad": true, "ewbank": "16", "description": "Climb splitter fingers to the summit." } ], "quality": 2, "bolts": "8", "natural_pro": true, "description": "650m, 24 pitches, 23\nRack 10-12 draws , single set nuts, single cams .2,2,3 doubles .3-1.\nEstablished ground up over 3.5 days of climbing and five days total on the wall. The route can be rapped with a single 60m rope.\nApproach via the first 7 pitches of Uprising.\nOnce reaching the upper wall move right past uprising along the ledge to a fixed rope. At the base of the route there are singular bivy spots for 3 people. A 20L water bucket is in place 2m above the ring bolt of the fixed line on a small ledge.", "ascent": "Llewellyn Murdoch, Daniel Joll, February 2022" }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/darrans/wick-mountains/charismatic-wall-pt-1655/seven-nation-army", "name": "Seven Nation Army", "grade": "20", "topo_ref": null, "image": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/route/resized_p3090196.jpg?itok=-HxK5iyh", "images": [ { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/route/resized_p3090196.jpg?itok=-HxK5iyh", "height": "325", "width": "217" } ], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": "7", "trad": true, "ewbank": "20", "description": null } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": "7", "natural_pro": true, "description": "The striking shoot or \u2018white stripe\u2019 of a slip visible from Chasm Crag carpark to the right of the Charismatic Wall, off of Pk 1665. Thirteen pitches. Start up vegetated slabs with no natural protection, but the rock quality improves, with sharp white quartz and good edges. Two bolts were placed on lead to protect the second pitch, where there was insufficient natural protection, and about five more bolts on the descent for rappelling.", "ascent": "Charlie Long, Mike Buchanan, March 2014" } ], "places": [], "image": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/wide/public/image/56CC7834-33EF-461F-8AE4-14E48197F7C4.jpeg?itok=xwxu6nLZ", "images": [ { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/wide/public/image/56CC7834-33EF-461F-8AE4-14E48197F7C4.jpeg?itok=xwxu6nLZ", "height": "1453", "width": "1090" }, { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/image/D111.jpg?itok=4dK4xf_y", "height": "258", "width": "325" } ] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/canterbury/pancake-range/pt-1654": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/canterbury/pancake-range/pt-1654", "name": "Pt 1654", "altitude": "1654m", "access": null, "description": null, "latlng": [ "-43.01284785", "172.22828719" ], "routes": [], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/canterbury/four-peaks-range/tripps-pk": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/canterbury/four-peaks-range/tripps-pk", "name": "Tripps Pk", "altitude": "1653m", "access": null, "description": null, "latlng": [ "-43.94323766", "171.04906528" ], "routes": [], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/1652-0": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/1652-0", "name": "Pt 1652", "altitude": "1652m", "access": null, "description": null, "latlng": [ "-42.09476584", "173.40017002" ], "routes": [], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/fiordland/pt-1652": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/fiordland/pt-1652", "name": "Pt 1652", "altitude": "1652m", "access": null, "description": null, "latlng": [ "-45.40323548", "167.31761382" ], "routes": [], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/otago/harris-mountains/coronet-pk": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/otago/harris-mountains/coronet-pk", "name": "Coronet Pk", "altitude": "1651m", "access": null, "description": "The ski field.", "latlng": [ "-44.91607959", "168.73942161" ], "routes": [], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/fiordland/kepler-mountains/pt-1650": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/fiordland/kepler-mountains/pt-1650", "name": "Pt 1650", "altitude": "1650m", "access": null, "description": null, "latlng": [ "-45.34679011", "167.43701933" ], "routes": [], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/kahurangi/marino-mountains/billies-knob": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/kahurangi/marino-mountains/billies-knob", "name": "Billies Knob", "altitude": "1648m", "access": "via highest popint on track to Granity Pass Hut", "description": "Peak near Granity Pass Hut", "latlng": null, "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/kahurangi/marino-mountains/billies-knob/billies-knob", "name": "Billies Knob", "grade": "1", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": "1", "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "A pleasant scramble from highest point of the track to Granity Pass Hut. Descend rocky gullies to Granity Pass" } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": null } ], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/fiordland/franklin-mountains/pt-1646": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/fiordland/franklin-mountains/pt-1646", "name": "Pt 1646", "altitude": "1646m", "access": null, "description": null, "latlng": [ "-45.0158531", "167.76627395" ], "routes": [], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/1646-0": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/1646-0", "name": "Pt 1646", "altitude": "1646m", "access": null, "description": null, "latlng": [ "-42.71197261", "171.71199235" ], "routes": [], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/fiordland/merrie-range/pt-1646": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/fiordland/merrie-range/pt-1646", "name": "Pt 1646", "altitude": "1646m", "access": null, "description": null, "latlng": [ "-45.67751", "167.21105" ], "routes": [], "places": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/fiordland/merrie-range/pt-1646/sw-face", "name": "SW Face", "altitude": null, "access": null, "description": null, "latlng": null, "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/fiordland/merrie-range/pt-1646/sw-face/whenua-mamao", "name": "Whenua Mamao", "grade": "18", "topo_ref": null, "image": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/routes/20200329_172653.jpg?itok=_RVvbruW", "images": [ { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/routes/20200329_172653.jpg?itok=_RVvbruW", "height": "183", "width": "325" }, { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/routes/20200329_174718.jpg?itok=V-_NJa5X", "height": "183", "width": "325" }, { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/routes/20200329_181546.jpg?itok=GQp6ndpg", "height": "183", "width": "325" }, { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/routes/20200329_185104.jpg?itok=11p-l2qQ", "height": "183", "width": "325" }, { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/routes/20200329_190741.jpg?itok=-ozYSEuc", "height": "183", "width": "325" } ], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": true, "ewbank": "18", "description": null } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": true, "description": "Easily viewed and accessed from lake 1023 (or ridge to SE). 300 vertical metres, 2 parts. Follow prominent prow on lower face, then walk right on terrace (possible egress to S) to the upper prow.\n\"Lowlands\" (lower prow): Start from very toe of buttress up vegetated groove (or join rib higher up). Where it steepens to vertical chimney, exciting moves right on clumps of scrub (18?) to a traverse around arete (hand and foot rails) to right, then up to small terrace. On up buttress to a second large ledge. Take grassy L angling groove L of crest; partway up break out right across slab (delicate for boots), max 15. Follow weaknesses left of arete.\n\"Highlands\"(upper prow): Starting just right of lowest point of arete, climb white granite flakes to right facing corner, then up on or near crest to a ledge. From here, easy ground slopes off to the left (optional start). Climb up left of crest (thin slab to beautiful orange corner) to crux at steep black band on crest. Face climb this beautiful compact rock on small holds (15) and scramble easily on up crest to ridge and summit. Scramble off via SE ridge.", "ascent": "Ruari Macfarlane, March 2020" } ], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] } ], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/1645": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/1645", "name": "Pt 1645", "altitude": "1645m", "access": null, "description": null, "latlng": [ "-45.21259537", "167.4410038" ], "routes": [], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/1645-0": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/1645-0", "name": "Pt 1645", "altitude": "1645m", "access": null, "description": null, "latlng": [ "-44.87403361", "167.7016555" ], "routes": [], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/mt-burns-0": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/mt-burns-0", "name": "Mt Burns", "altitude": "1645m", "access": null, "description": null, "latlng": [ "-45.74580677", "167.407246" ], "routes": [], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/kahurangi/domett-range/mt-domett": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/kahurangi/domett-range/mt-domett", "name": "Mt Domett", "altitude": "1645m", "access": null, "description": null, "latlng": [ "-41.06326021", "172.31135005" ], "routes": [], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/otago/dunstan-mountains/pt-1644": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/otago/dunstan-mountains/pt-1644", "name": "Pt 1644", "altitude": "1644m", "access": null, "description": null, "latlng": [ "-44.87184215", "169.67384123" ], "routes": [], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/mt-daniel": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/mt-daniel", "name": "Mt Daniel", "altitude": "1643m", "access": null, "description": null, "latlng": [ "-44.766735", "167.72152352" ], "routes": [], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/otago/kakanui-mountains/mt-pisgah": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/otago/kakanui-mountains/mt-pisgah", "name": "Mt Pisgah", "altitude": "1643m", "access": null, "description": null, "latlng": [ "-45.0800674", "170.39156978" ], "routes": [], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/kahurangi-richmond/richmond-range/mt-fishtail": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/kahurangi-richmond/richmond-range/mt-fishtail", "name": "Mt Fishtail", "altitude": "1641m", "access": null, "description": null, "latlng": [ "-41.44610413", "173.4944035" ], "routes": [], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/arthurs-pass/craigieburn-range/red-hill": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/arthurs-pass/craigieburn-range/red-hill", "name": "Red Hill", "altitude": "1641m", "access": null, "description": null, "latlng": [ "-43.30973913", "171.63156712" ], "routes": [], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/darrans/darran-mountains/mt-thunder": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/darrans/darran-mountains/mt-thunder", "name": "Mt Thunder", "altitude": "1640m", "access": null, "description": null, "latlng": [ "-44.51688798", "168.0225161" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/fiordland/darran-mountains/mt-thunder/south-ridge", "name": "South Ridge", "grade": null, "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": "Scramble from col at bottom (pickaxe head in grass - Bill O'Leary's?) ehich soon eases off to walking on blocks,over pt 1425, and then angle slightly right up scree slope above to gain the summit ridge via steep scrambling up a gully. Follow the ridge (straightfoward on broken but OK, granite) to the top. Accessed via sidle from Lk Truth outlet. Descent was along NW ridge to O'Leary Pass, involving one steep section of scrambling/downclimbing (as part of a longer traverse).", "ascent": "Ruari Macfarlane, Jan 2022" } ], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/arthurs-pass/hills-pk": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/arthurs-pass/hills-pk", "name": "Hills Pk", "altitude": "1640m", "access": null, "description": null, "latlng": [ "-42.88087004", "171.57335758" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/arthurs-pass/hills-pk/sw-ridge", "name": "SW Ridge", "grade": "1", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": "1", "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "Traverse the ridge from PHIPPS PEAK or by ascending the ridge between the big landslide at the top of the Otira Gorge zig-zag and Pegleg Creek" } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": null } ], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/fiordland/hunter-mountains/pt-1640": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/fiordland/hunter-mountains/pt-1640", "name": "Pt 1640", "altitude": "1640m", "access": null, "description": null, "latlng": [ "-45.70767384", "167.4019612" ], "routes": [], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/nelson-lakes/victoria-range/mt-victoria": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/nelson-lakes/victoria-range/mt-victoria", "name": "Mt Victoria", "altitude": "1639m", "access": null, "description": null, "latlng": [ "-42.0289151", "172.11850746" ], "routes": [], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/fiordland/matterhorn-mountains/black-giants": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/fiordland/matterhorn-mountains/black-giants", "name": "Black Giants", "altitude": "1638m", "access": null, "description": null, "latlng": [ "-45.51955804", "167.13544409" ], "routes": [], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/nelson-lakes/victoria-range/mt-kemp": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/nelson-lakes/victoria-range/mt-kemp", "name": "Mt Kemp", "altitude": "1637m", "access": null, "description": null, "latlng": [ "-42.34015482", "172.08376595" ], "routes": [], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aspiring/skippers-range/pt-1636": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aspiring/skippers-range/pt-1636", "name": "Pt 1636", "altitude": "1636m", "access": null, "description": null, "latlng": [ "-44.44088553", "168.16359289" ], "routes": [], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/otago/ida-range/mt-kyeburn": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/otago/ida-range/mt-kyeburn", "name": "Mt Kyeburn", "altitude": "1636m", "access": null, "description": null, "latlng": [ "-44.93119225", "170.29800679" ], "routes": [], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/fiordland/museum-range/pt-1634": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/fiordland/museum-range/pt-1634", "name": "Pt 1634", "altitude": "1634m", "access": null, "description": null, "latlng": [ "-45.21710653", "167.32954352" ], "routes": [], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/southland/takitimu-mountains/spence-pk": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/southland/takitimu-mountains/spence-pk", "name": "Spence Pk", "altitude": "1634m", "access": null, "description": "Takitimu Mountains", "latlng": [ "-45.717492", "167.85026792" ], "routes": [], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/canterbury/rolleston-range/mt-oakden": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/canterbury/rolleston-range/mt-oakden", "name": "Mt Oakden", "altitude": "1633m", "access": "Mt Oakden is part of Lake Coleridge Station. You must contact (03) 318 5123 for access permission.", "description": "Mt Oakden isn\u2019t actually on the Rolleston Range, it\u2019s a separate hill opposite Mt Algidus, between the Wilderforce River and Lake Coleridge.", "latlng": [ "-43.2448381", "171.41627126" ], "routes": [], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/%C5%8Dhau-landsborough/timaru%E2%80%93lindis-mountains/pavilion-pk": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/%C5%8Dhau-landsborough/timaru%E2%80%93lindis-mountains/pavilion-pk", "name": "Pavilion Pk", "altitude": "1632m", "access": null, "description": null, "latlng": [ "-44.45934651", "169.61273118" ], "routes": [], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/fiordland/stuart-mountains/howitt-pks": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/fiordland/stuart-mountains/howitt-pks", "name": "Howitt Pks", "altitude": "1631m", "access": null, "description": null, "latlng": [ "-45.0944", "167.6237" ], "routes": [], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/luna-ridge/mt-luna": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/luna-ridge/mt-luna", "name": "Mt Luna", "altitude": "1630m", "access": null, "description": "Luna Ridge", "latlng": [ "-41.39451641", "172.4620665" ], "routes": [], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/kahurangi/grange-ridge/false-pk": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/kahurangi/grange-ridge/false-pk", "name": "False Pk", "altitude": "1628m", "access": null, "description": null, "latlng": [ "-41.14014621", "172.37247078" ], "routes": [], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aspiring/richardson-mountains/bowen-pk": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aspiring/richardson-mountains/bowen-pk", "name": "Bowen Pk", "altitude": "1627m", "access": null, "description": "Above Queenstown", "latlng": [ "-44.99707328", "168.63952503" ], "routes": [], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/fiordland/murchison-mountains/mt-max": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/fiordland/murchison-mountains/mt-max", "name": "Mt Max", "altitude": "1625m", "access": null, "description": null, "latlng": [ "-45.21790697", "167.51450645" ], "routes": [], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/nelson-lakes/victoria-range/mt-puttick": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/nelson-lakes/victoria-range/mt-puttick", "name": "Mt Puttick", "altitude": "1623m", "access": null, "description": null, "latlng": [ "-42.34332047", "172.03153308" ], "routes": [], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/fiordland/kepler-mountains/pt-1622": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/fiordland/kepler-mountains/pt-1622", "name": "Pt 1622", "altitude": "1622m", "access": null, "description": null, "latlng": [ "-45.27526841", "167.31999629" ], "routes": [], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/fiordland/kepler-mountains/jackson-pks": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/fiordland/kepler-mountains/jackson-pks", "name": "Jackson Pks", "altitude": "1622m", "access": null, "description": null, "latlng": [ "-45.40675882", "167.56053995" ], "routes": [], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/kahurangi/douglas-range/clark-pk": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/kahurangi/douglas-range/clark-pk", "name": "Clark Pk", "altitude": "1622m", "access": null, "description": "Above Boulder Lake.", "latlng": [ "-40.9005802", "172.55157542" ], "routes": [], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/kahurangi/douglas-range/lead-hills": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/kahurangi/douglas-range/lead-hills", "name": "Lead Hills", "altitude": "1622m", "access": null, "description": null, "latlng": [ "-40.89336307", "172.54806455" ], "routes": [], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/kahurangi/lockett-range/mt-lockett": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/kahurangi/lockett-range/mt-lockett", "name": "Mt Lockett", "altitude": "1621m", "access": null, "description": null, "latlng": [ "-41.07638481", "172.61225054" ], "routes": [], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aspiring/skippers-range/pt-1620": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aspiring/skippers-range/pt-1620", "name": "Pt 1620", "altitude": "1620m", "access": null, "description": null, "latlng": [ "-44.46788628", "168.1412303" ], "routes": [], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/fiordland/merrie-range/pt-1619": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/fiordland/merrie-range/pt-1619", "name": "Pt 1619", "altitude": "1619m", "access": null, "description": null, "latlng": [ "-45.683908", "167.214618" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/fiordland/merrie-range/pt-1619/centrespire", "name": "Centrespire", "grade": "15", "topo_ref": null, "image": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/routes/20200329_170445.jpg?itok=GAomGrNR", "images": [ { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/routes/20200329_170445.jpg?itok=GAomGrNR", "height": "183", "width": "325" }, { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/routes/20200330_093446.jpg?itok=0BMLmN4d", "height": "183", "width": "325" }, { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/routes/20200330_094021.jpg?itok=lgU8TVxl", "height": "183", "width": "325" }, { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/routes/centerspire_merrie_range.png?itok=LAt7EmnC", "height": "233", "width": "325" } ], "length": "140m", "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": "140m", "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": "15", "description": null } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": "Grade 15 on good solid granite (superior to Far Lands on nearby Pt 1646), 140 vertical meters. Access up the ridge E of lake 1023 from the top of the waterfall route (Moirs), or with more difficulty (thick steep bush), directly from lake outlet NW of pt 881. Start climb through lower cliffband via a subtle rib, just right of prominent white pillar & R facing corner.\nCross terrace and continue up near right-hand edge/crest of spire. Shortly, a crack steepens into a dike; at this point traverse right, around rib to easier weaknesses. Through steepest section, weave up R side of crest, then back L to nice corner cracks, before scramble to top. Descend easily (visible from approach) via notch to N (toward true summit) and then traversing NW.", "ascent": "Ruari Macfarlane, March 2020" } ], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/ni/gisborne/rauk%C5%ABmara-range/whanokao": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/ni/gisborne/rauk%C5%ABmara-range/whanokao", "name": "Whanokao", "altitude": "1618m", "access": null, "description": null, "latlng": [ "-37.84969063", "177.98520776" ], "routes": [], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/fiordland/townley-mountains/pt-1617": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/fiordland/townley-mountains/pt-1617", "name": "Pt 1617", "altitude": "1617m", "access": null, "description": null, "latlng": [ "-45.64817919", "167.27274472" ], "routes": [], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/1617-0": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/1617-0", "name": "Pt 1617", "altitude": "1617m", "access": null, "description": null, "latlng": [ "-42.25792396", "172.04740365" ], "routes": [], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/nelson-lakes-kaik%C5%8Dura/crimea-range/alma-pk": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/nelson-lakes-kaik%C5%8Dura/crimea-range/alma-pk", "name": "Alma Pk", "altitude": "1617m", "access": null, "description": null, "latlng": [ "-42.14403261", "172.96857688" ], "routes": [], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/canterbury/tara-haoa-range/coal-hill": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/canterbury/tara-haoa-range/coal-hill", "name": "Coal Hill", "altitude": "1617m", "access": null, "description": null, "latlng": [ "-43.77908469", "171.14010722" ], "routes": [], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/ni/taupo/kaimanawa-mountains/waingakia": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/ni/taupo/kaimanawa-mountains/waingakia", "name": "Waingakia", "altitude": "1617m", "access": null, "description": null, "latlng": [ "-39.13797111", "176.08633948" ], "routes": [], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/nelson-lakes-kaik%C5%8Dura/boddington-range/maukuratawhai": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/nelson-lakes-kaik%C5%8Dura/boddington-range/maukuratawhai", "name": "Maukuratawhai", "altitude": "1615m", "access": null, "description": null, "latlng": [ "-42.43112936", "172.85049632" ], "routes": [], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/canterbury/tekoa-range/mt-tekoa": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/canterbury/tekoa-range/mt-tekoa", "name": "Mt Tekoa", "altitude": "1615m", "access": null, "description": null, "latlng": [ "-42.66376849", "172.62667234" ], "routes": [], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/otago/diadem-range/pt-1615": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/otago/diadem-range/pt-1615", "name": "Pt 1615", "altitude": "1615m", "access": null, "description": null, "latlng": [ "-44.4552546", "169.75255277" ], "routes": [], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/1615-0": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/1615-0", "name": "Pt 1615", "altitude": "1615m", "access": null, "description": null, "latlng": [ "-44.45283844", "169.7627447" ], "routes": [], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/fiordland/dingwall-mountains/mt-cusack": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/fiordland/dingwall-mountains/mt-cusack", "name": "Mt Cusack", "altitude": "1611m", "access": null, "description": null, "latlng": [ "-45.59334456", "167.04308365" ], "routes": [], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/fiordland/stillwater%E2%80%93doon-mountains/mt-donald": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/fiordland/stillwater%E2%80%93doon-mountains/mt-donald", "name": "Mt Donald", "altitude": "1610m", "access": null, "description": null, "latlng": [ "-45.06442335", "167.41703247" ], "routes": [], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/canterbury-westland-alps/diedrichs-range/jumble-top": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/canterbury-westland-alps/diedrichs-range/jumble-top", "name": "Jumble Top", "altitude": "1610m", "access": null, "description": null, "latlng": [ "-42.965278", "171.108928" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/canterbury-westland-alps/diedrichs-range/jumble-top/gerhardt-spur", "name": "Gerhardt Spur", "grade": "1-,I", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": "0m", "pitches": [ { "alpine": "1-", "commitment": "I", "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": null } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": "0", "natural_pro": false, "description": "This can be a useful spur when planning a round trip along ranges from the Hokitika roadend. A long and overgrowing marked route (which DOC plans to re-cut) leads from J33 496023 / BV18 396 407 in Diedrichs Creek, up Gerhardt Spur to Gerhardt Bivouac (DOC, two bunks). The spur leads easily on to Jumble Top. To access the Diedrichs Range going south, descend from Gerhardt Bivvy to the forks at J33 552019 / BV19 453 403 and climb up the gully to the range beside Pt 1610 metres.", "ascent": null } ], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/southland/takitimu-mountains/family-pks": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/southland/takitimu-mountains/family-pks", "name": "Family Pks", "altitude": "1610m", "access": null, "description": null, "latlng": [ "-45.6911", "167.7999" ], "routes": [], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/ni/taupo/kaimanawa-mountains/whakamarumaru": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/ni/taupo/kaimanawa-mountains/whakamarumaru", "name": "Whakamarumaru", "altitude": "1609m", "access": null, "description": null, "latlng": [ "-39.23442821", "176.01878429" ], "routes": [], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/arthurs-pass/polar-range/the-pyramid": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/arthurs-pass/polar-range/the-pyramid", "name": "The Pyramid", "altitude": "1608m", "access": null, "description": "tba", "latlng": [ "-42.9627039", "171.72502041" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/arthurs-pass/polar-range/the-pyramid/south-east-spur", "name": "South East Spur", "grade": "1", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": "1", "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": null } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": "Climb the forested South East Spur, or the prominent gully that descends from\nthe steep south slope of the peak.", "ascent": null }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/arthurs-pass/polar-range/the-pyramid/sudden-valley-biv", "name": "From Sudden Valley Biv", "grade": "1", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": "1", "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": null } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": "Climb the vegetated spur opposite Sudden Valley Biv, or the stream 1.2km\ndownstream. Sile up and southwards on scree once clear of the greenery, to\nreach the main ridgeline. This ridge, though less than magnificent, is short,\nwith the peak being reached in good time.", "ascent": null } ], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/canterbury/rhoboro-hills/ben-dhu": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/canterbury/rhoboro-hills/ben-dhu", "name": "Ben Dhu", "altitude": "1607m", "access": null, "description": null, "latlng": [ "-44.05643586", "170.09645708" ], "routes": [], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/fiordland/murchison-mountains/pt-1606": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/fiordland/murchison-mountains/pt-1606", "name": "Pt 1606", "altitude": "1606m", "access": null, "description": null, "latlng": [ "-45.20783209", "167.47335904" ], "routes": [], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/1606-0": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/1606-0", "name": "Pt 1606", "altitude": "1606m", "access": null, "description": null, "latlng": [ "-45.66518445", "167.25174674" ], "routes": [], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/nelson-lakes/matakitaki-river/mt-mantell": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/nelson-lakes/matakitaki-river/mt-mantell", "name": "Mt Mantell", "altitude": "1606m", "access": null, "description": null, "latlng": [ "-41.97966358", "172.28330361" ], "routes": [], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/arthurs-pass/aicken-range/mt-tarapuhi": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/arthurs-pass/aicken-range/mt-tarapuhi", "name": "Mt Tarapuhi", "altitude": "1605m", "access": null, "description": "tba", "latlng": [ "-42.81948628", "171.65026188" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/arthurs-pass/aicken-range/mt-tarapuhi/from-lower-deception", "name": "From Lower Deception", "grade": "2", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": "2", "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "Approached from the lower Deception Valley by ascending Midday Creek and its slide. Once clear of the scrub, continue climbing towards Tarapuhi,a very difficult/horrendous route. From the saddle above Spray Creek a short, very steep, pitch can be climbed on the Otehake side towards Mt Tarapuhi." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": null }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/arthurs-pass/aicken-range/mt-tarapuhi/north-ridge", "name": "North Ridge", "grade": "1", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": "1", "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "Gain Waharoa saddle via Paruta stream before traversing the tops. The final 1km ridge has several sharp, exposed sections making for an exciting winter climb or a straight forward summer scramble." } ], "quality": 1, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": null } ], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/fiordland/wall-mountains/pt-1605": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/fiordland/wall-mountains/pt-1605", "name": "Pt 1605", "altitude": "1605m", "access": null, "description": null, "latlng": [ "-45.58435297", "167.24058159" ], "routes": [], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aspiring/little-red-hill-range/battlement-pk": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aspiring/little-red-hill-range/battlement-pk", "name": "Battlement Pk", "altitude": "1605m", "access": null, "description": null, "latlng": [ "-44.35933832", "168.28336826" ], "routes": [], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/southland/takitimu-mountains/chimney-pks": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/southland/takitimu-mountains/chimney-pks", "name": "Chimney Pks", "altitude": "1602m", "access": null, "description": "West of Windy River Col.", "latlng": [ "-45.7328", "167.7885" ], "routes": [], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/conical-hill": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/conical-hill", "name": "Conical Hill", "altitude": "1602m", "access": null, "description": null, "latlng": [ "-42.37360946", "171.99463458" ], "routes": [], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/fiordland/kepler-mountains/gerald-pk": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/fiordland/kepler-mountains/gerald-pk", "name": "Gerald Pk", "altitude": "1602m", "access": null, "description": null, "latlng": [ "-45.27731951", "167.36195396" ], "routes": [], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/nelson-lakes-kaikc58dura/seaward-kaikc58dura-range/mt-fyffe": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/nelson-lakes-kaikc58dura/seaward-kaikc58dura-range/mt-fyffe", "name": "Mt Fyffe", "altitude": "1602m", "access": null, "description": "The dominant foreground peak seen from Kaik\u014dura, a great viewpoint and popular day trip. There are several day trip routes from Kaik\u014dura and from the Kowhai River, generally easy though steep at times.", "latlng": [ "-42.31082997", "173.61254108" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/nelson-lakes-kaik%C5%8Dura/seaward-kaik%C5%8Dura-range/mt-fyffe/standard-route", "name": "Standard Route", "grade": "I", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": "I", "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": null } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": "The most common approach is from the Hinau picnic area at the end of Postmans Rd, over a locked gate and up the 4WD road. Mt Fyffe Hut (8 bunks, standard) on Tarn Saddle at 1100m is a good lunch spot.", "ascent": null }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/nelson-lakes-kaik%C5%8Dura/seaward-kaik%C5%8Dura-range/mt-fyffe/fenceline-spur-route", "name": "Fenceline Spur Route", "grade": "I", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": "I", "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": null } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": "Starts from Goldmine Creek of Postmans Road. No longer maintained but well marked.", "ascent": null }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/nelson-lakes-kaik%C5%8Dura/seaward-kaik%C5%8Dura-range/mt-fyffe/te-rakaomaru-spur-razorback-route", "name": "Te Rakaomaru Spur (Razorback) Route", "grade": "I", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": "I", "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": null } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": "From the end of Mt Fyffe Rd, take the track through the scenic reserve to the creek crossing, and up the streambed. Climb up the eastern edge of scree in the head of the stream onto open tops. Currently overgrown with many young pine trees.", "ascent": null }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/nelson-lakes-kaik%C5%8Dura/seaward-kaik%C5%8Dura-range/mt-fyffe/blind-spur-route", "name": "Blind Spur Route", "grade": "I", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": "I", "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": null } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": "From the farm at the end of Brunels Rd (request permission from B Aitken, phone 03 319 5091) cross paddocks to the Waimangarara River and follow it to the first major junction. Climb north-west through forest to a rough track on the spur and continue to the bushline through subalpine scrub. The scree spur joins the summit ridge about 1.2 km north-east of Mt Fyffe trig.", "ascent": null }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/nelson-lakes-kaik%C5%8Dura/seaward-kaik%C5%8Dura-range/mt-fyffe/sawyer-ridge-route", "name": "Sawyer Ridge Route", "grade": "I", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": "I", "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "" } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": "From the farm at the end of Bay Paddock Rd (request permission from A & N Frost, phone 027 327 5691) follow paddocks, fence line, farm road and a rough track to the leading south spur. Tussock, rock and scree leads to Gable (1585m) on the main ridge north-east of the trig.", "ascent": null }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/nelson-lakes-kaik%C5%8Dura/seaward-kaik%C5%8Dura-range/mt-fyffe/humpback-route", "name": "Humpback Route", "grade": "I", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": "I", "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "" } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": "A long traverse past Gables End (1592m), north-east of Mt Fyffe. Choose a suitable spur from the Hapuku River onto Humpback and the tussock tops. Raven Spur (gained from the Hapuku gorge bypass track) can also be used.", "ascent": null }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/nelson-lakes-kaik%C5%8Dura/seaward-kaik%C5%8Dura-range/mt-fyffe/kowhai-saddle-route", "name": "Kowhai Saddle Route", "grade": "I", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": "I", "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "" } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": "Kowhai Saddle links the Kowhai River and the south branch of the Hapuku. Follow tussock and scree from the saddle to Gables End and along the tops to Mt Fyffe.", "ascent": null }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/nelson-lakes-kaik%C5%8Dura/seaward-kaik%C5%8Dura-range/mt-fyffe/spaniard-spur-route", "name": "Spaniard Spur Route", "grade": "I", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": "I", "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "" } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": "A marked track starts from the Kowhai River about 300m upstream from the Snowflake Stream junction and joins the main ridge just below Mt Fyffe Hut.", "ascent": null } ], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/nelson-lakes/mahanga-range/mt-misery": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/nelson-lakes/mahanga-range/mt-misery", "name": "Mt Misery", "altitude": "1601m", "access": null, "description": "Mahanga Ra", "latlng": [ "-41.93382719", "172.66817093" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/nelson-lakes/mahanga-range/mt-misery/standard-route", "name": "Standard Route", "grade": "1", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": "1", "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "From the head of Lake Rotoroa a track climbs a steepening face on to a spur. At the bushline climb onto the Mahanga Range and follow it up to Mt Misery. The hut below (4 bunks, basic) can be difficult to locate in fog." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": null } ], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/canterbury/the-hunters-hills/mt-nessing": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/canterbury/the-hunters-hills/mt-nessing", "name": "Mt Nessing", "altitude": "1601m", "access": null, "description": null, "latlng": [ "-44.34752067", "170.70717436" ], "routes": [], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/lewis-pass-harper-pass/kaimata-range/pt-1600": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/lewis-pass-harper-pass/kaimata-range/pt-1600", "name": "Pt 1600", "altitude": "1600m", "access": null, "description": null, "latlng": [ "-42.71330491", "171.83527363" ], "routes": [], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/fiordland/mt-george": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/fiordland/mt-george", "name": "Mt George", "altitude": "1598m", "access": null, "description": null, "latlng": [ "-45.46293881", "167.22967625" ], "routes": [], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aspiring/marks-range/mt-webster": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aspiring/marks-range/mt-webster", "name": "Mt Webster", "altitude": "1595m", "access": null, "description": null, "latlng": [ "-43.99136988", "169.16886434" ], "routes": [], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/fiordland/hunter-mountains/pt-1595": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/fiordland/hunter-mountains/pt-1595", "name": "Pt 1595", "altitude": "1595m", "access": null, "description": null, "latlng": [ "-45.61576384", "167.42250142" ], "routes": [], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/nelson-lakes/victoria-range/pt-1594": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/nelson-lakes/victoria-range/pt-1594", "name": "Pt 1594", "altitude": "1594m", "access": null, "description": null, "latlng": [ "-42.20188278", "172.02161852" ], "routes": [], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/nelson-lakes-kaikc58dura/seaward-kaikc58dura-range/pt-1593": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/nelson-lakes-kaikc58dura/seaward-kaikc58dura-range/pt-1593", "name": "Pt 1593", "altitude": "1593m", "access": null, "description": null, "latlng": [ "-42.36242815", "173.31075955" ], "routes": [], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/canterbury/hewson-range/mt-hewson": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/canterbury/hewson-range/mt-hewson", "name": "Mt Hewson", "altitude": "1593m", "access": null, "description": null, "latlng": [ "-43.77143983", "171.00615781" ], "routes": [], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/otago/criffel-range/quartz-knoll": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/otago/criffel-range/quartz-knoll", "name": "Quartz Knoll", "altitude": "1593m", "access": null, "description": null, "latlng": [ "-44.96033438", "168.99509945" ], "routes": [], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/kahurangi/arthur-range/mt-gomorrah": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/kahurangi/arthur-range/mt-gomorrah", "name": "Mt Gomorrah", "altitude": "1592m", "access": null, "description": null, "latlng": [ "-41.37702384", "172.58414307" ], "routes": [], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/c58dhau-landsborough/strachan-range/mt-reynolds": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/c58dhau-landsborough/strachan-range/mt-reynolds", "name": "Mt Reynolds", "altitude": "1591m", "access": null, "description": null, "latlng": [ "-43.712242", "169.581846" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/c58dhau-landsborough/strachan-range/mt-reynolds/otoko-river", "name": "From \u014ctoko River", "grade": "1,I", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": "0m", "pitches": [ { "alpine": "1", "commitment": "I", "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": null } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": "0", "natural_pro": false, "description": "The spur 1km upstream of the Paringa confluence gives good access onto the tops via Pt 1005m. Gentle tussock travel follows to the summit.", "ascent": null } ], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/ni/taupo/kaimanawa-mountains/umukarikari-range/umukarikari": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/ni/taupo/kaimanawa-mountains/umukarikari-range/umukarikari", "name": "Umukarikari", "altitude": "1591m", "access": null, "description": null, "latlng": [ "-39.13286487", "175.90324003" ], "routes": [], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/canterbury/amuri-range/cloudy-range": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/canterbury/amuri-range/cloudy-range", "name": "Cloudy Range", "altitude": "1587m", "access": null, "description": null, "latlng": [ "-42.37433107", "173.22096704" ], "routes": [], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/canterbury/four-peaks-range/devils-pk": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/canterbury/four-peaks-range/devils-pk", "name": "Devils Pk", "altitude": "1587m", "access": null, "description": null, "latlng": [ "-43.97842014", "171.00054749" ], "routes": [], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/arthurs-pass/dampier-range/pt-1586": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/arthurs-pass/dampier-range/pt-1586", "name": "Pt 1586", "altitude": "1586m", "access": null, "description": null, "latlng": [ "-42.9189785", "172.07513337" ], "routes": [], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/fiordland/stillwater%E2%80%93doon-mountains/pt-1585": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/fiordland/stillwater%E2%80%93doon-mountains/pt-1585", "name": "Pt 1585", "altitude": "1585m", "access": null, "description": null, "latlng": [ "-45.12092126", "167.41031161" ], "routes": [], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/kahurangi/marshall-range/pt-1583": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/kahurangi/marshall-range/pt-1583", "name": "Pt 1583", "altitude": "1583m", "access": null, "description": null, "latlng": [ "-41.1017017", "172.42402489" ], "routes": [], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/arthurs-pass/savannah-range/green-hill": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/arthurs-pass/savannah-range/green-hill", "name": "Green Hill", "altitude": "1583m", "access": null, "description": null, "latlng": [ "-42.8697765", "171.81762209" ], "routes": [], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/fiordland/matterhorn-mountains/koinga-pk": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/fiordland/matterhorn-mountains/koinga-pk", "name": "Koinga Pk", "altitude": "1582m", "access": null, "description": null, "latlng": [ "-45.53001156", "167.18186392" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/fiordland/matterhorn-mountains/koinga-pk/sw-ridge", "name": "SW ridge", "grade": null, "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": "Can quickly be added to a traverse of the Matterhorn Mountains (as can Mts Gladstone, Wilmot and Matterhorn). A short stretch of exposed scrambling from a shallow col (can be further shortened by accessing via a gully on SE face, just SW of Summit). Stellar views.", "ascent": null } ], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/nelson-lakes-kaikc58dura/inland-kaikoura-range/beattie": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/nelson-lakes-kaikc58dura/inland-kaikoura-range/beattie", "name": "Beattie", "altitude": "1582m", "access": null, "description": null, "latlng": [ "-42.20662465", "173.32940337" ], "routes": [], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/kahurangi/herbert-range/herbert-north": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/kahurangi/herbert-range/herbert-north", "name": "Herbert North", "altitude": "1582m", "access": null, "description": null, "latlng": [ "-41.36607046", "172.35951963" ], "routes": [], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/lewis-pass-harper-pass/glynn-wye-range/hooligan": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/lewis-pass-harper-pass/glynn-wye-range/hooligan", "name": "Hooligan", "altitude": "1582m", "access": null, "description": null, "latlng": [ "-42.78697038", "172.39002083" ], "routes": [], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/canterbury/big-range/pt-1581": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/canterbury/big-range/pt-1581", "name": "Pt 1581", "altitude": "1581m", "access": null, "description": null, "latlng": [ "-44.47616928", "170.32370584" ], "routes": [], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/c58dhau-landsborough/paringa-moeraki-mountains/pt-1580": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/c58dhau-landsborough/paringa-moeraki-mountains/pt-1580", "name": "Pt 1580", "altitude": "1580m", "access": null, "description": null, "latlng": [ "-43.82178986", "169.49949579" ], "routes": [], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/arthurs-pass/craigieburn-range/pt-1578": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/arthurs-pass/craigieburn-range/pt-1578", "name": "Pt 1578", "altitude": "1578m", "access": null, "description": "An outlier from the central Craigieburn Range, between Winding Creek and Broken River.", "latlng": [ "-43.16933138", "171.7946079" ], "routes": [], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/fiordland/cleughearn-pk": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/fiordland/cleughearn-pk", "name": "Cleughearn Pk", "altitude": "1578m", "access": null, "description": "Above Lake Monowai.", "latlng": [ "-45.82767924", "167.40309754" ], "routes": [], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/fiordland/pt-1577": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/fiordland/pt-1577", "name": "Pt 1577", "altitude": "1577m", "access": null, "description": null, "latlng": [ "-45.36966413", "167.22238796" ], "routes": [], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/ni/taupo/kaimanawa-mountains/tawake-tohunga-range/tawake-tohunga": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/ni/taupo/kaimanawa-mountains/tawake-tohunga-range/tawake-tohunga", "name": "Tawake Tohunga", "altitude": "1577m", "access": null, "description": null, "latlng": [ "-39.27485521", "176.09129823" ], "routes": [], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/fiordland/pt-1574": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/fiordland/pt-1574", "name": "Pt 1574", "altitude": "1574m", "access": null, "description": null, "latlng": [ "-45.33445169", "167.31288559" ], "routes": [], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/fiordland/kaherekoau-mountains/white-pk": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/fiordland/kaherekoau-mountains/white-pk", "name": "White Pk", "altitude": "1574m", "access": null, "description": "Kaherekoau Mountains", "latlng": [ "-45.88308398", "167.24398177" ], "routes": [], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/southland/livingstone-mountains/snowdon-pk": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/southland/livingstone-mountains/snowdon-pk", "name": "Snowdon Pk", "altitude": "1573m", "access": null, "description": null, "latlng": [ "-45.27667347", "168.05936592" ], "routes": [], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/fiordland/stuart-mountains/pt-1572-0": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/fiordland/stuart-mountains/pt-1572-0", "name": "Pt 1572", "altitude": "1572m", "access": null, "description": null, "latlng": [ "-44.99108369", "167.61981761" ], "routes": [], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/ni/wellington/tararua-range/mitre-0": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/ni/wellington/tararua-range/mitre-0", "name": "Mitre", "altitude": "1571m", "access": null, "description": null, "latlng": [ "-40.798087", "175.457497" ], "routes": [], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/fiordland/mt-bain": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/fiordland/mt-bain", "name": "Mt Bain", "altitude": "1569m", "access": null, "description": null, "latlng": [ "-45.5906517", "167.13202349" ], "routes": [], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/kahurangi/marino-mountains/pt-1568": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/kahurangi/marino-mountains/pt-1568", "name": "Pt 1568", "altitude": "1568m", "access": null, "description": null, "latlng": [ "-41.50812144", "172.49584615" ], "routes": [], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/ni/manawatu-whanganui/ruahine-range/mokai-patea-range/rongotea": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/ni/manawatu-whanganui/ruahine-range/mokai-patea-range/rongotea", "name": "Rongotea", "altitude": "1568m", "access": null, "description": null, "latlng": [ "-39.76369802", "176.11336447" ], "routes": [], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/ni/manawatu-whanganui/ruahine-range/ngamoko-range/tunupo": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/ni/manawatu-whanganui/ruahine-range/ngamoko-range/tunupo", "name": "Tunupo", "altitude": "1568m", "access": null, "description": null, "latlng": [ "-39.96671972", "176.07109945" ], "routes": [], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/kahurangi/matiri-range/pt-1565": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/kahurangi/matiri-range/pt-1565", "name": "Pt 1565", "altitude": "1565m", "access": null, "description": null, "latlng": [ "-41.51273454", "172.34247943" ], "routes": [], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/fiordland/merrie-range/mt-puteketeke": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/fiordland/merrie-range/mt-puteketeke", "name": "Mt Puteketeke", "altitude": "1563m", "access": null, "description": null, "latlng": [ "-45.7323458", "167.27848218" ], "routes": [], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aspiring/bryneira-range/pt-1562": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aspiring/bryneira-range/pt-1562", "name": "Pt 1562", "altitude": "1562m", "access": null, "description": null, "latlng": [ "-44.4834082", "168.23186944" ], "routes": [], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/kahurangi-richmond/richmond-range/purple-topmost": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/kahurangi-richmond/richmond-range/purple-topmost", "name": "Purple Topmost", "altitude": "1562m", "access": null, "description": null, "latlng": [ "-41.53071811", "173.19904984" ], "routes": [], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/fiordland/darran-mountains/barren-pk": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/fiordland/darran-mountains/barren-pk", "name": "Barren Pk", "altitude": "1561m", "access": null, "description": "Bowen Valley", "latlng": [ "-44.661426", "167.95063" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/fiordland/darran-mountains/barren-pk/original-route", "name": "Original Route", "grade": null, "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "From the Bowen River head directly for the great scrub wall below Barren Peak. A few 100 metres north of the large bluffs follow a series of slabs angling up and left to a small terrace. A further 100 metres of near vertical scrub trending right gains a small basin below the col north of Barren Peak. Traverse the ridge south to the summit.\r\nThe party descended the devastatingly steep Cleddau Ridge to the Milford Lodge." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Lindsay Stewart, M. Stewart, 1935" } ], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/fiordland/stuart-mountains/flecked-pk": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/fiordland/stuart-mountains/flecked-pk", "name": "Flecked Pk", "altitude": "1560m", "access": null, "description": null, "latlng": [ "-45.11649299", "167.67950243" ], "routes": [], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/fiordland/stillwater%E2%80%93doon-mountains/pt-1558": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/fiordland/stillwater%E2%80%93doon-mountains/pt-1558", "name": "Pt 1558", "altitude": "1558m", "access": null, "description": null, "latlng": [ "-45.04776645", "167.46443979" ], "routes": [], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/fiordland/kepler-mountains/mt-maury": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/fiordland/kepler-mountains/mt-maury", "name": "Mt Maury", "altitude": "1558m", "access": null, "description": null, "latlng": [ "-45.34060696", "167.49644378" ], "routes": [], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/otago/saint-cuthbert-range/mt-st-cuthbert": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/otago/saint-cuthbert-range/mt-st-cuthbert", "name": "Mt St Cuthbert", "altitude": "1558m", "access": null, "description": null, "latlng": [ "-44.54484362", "170.00203179" ], "routes": [], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/fiordland/pt-1556": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/fiordland/pt-1556", "name": "Pt 1556", "altitude": "1556m", "access": null, "description": null, "latlng": [ "-45.39077328", "167.28427943" ], "routes": [], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/fiordland/princess-mountains/albert-edward-pk": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/fiordland/princess-mountains/albert-edward-pk", "name": "Albert Edward Pk", "altitude": "1554m", "access": null, "description": "TBA", "latlng": [ "-45.97403639", "167.25935811" ], "routes": [], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aspiring/skippers-range/pt-1552": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aspiring/skippers-range/pt-1552", "name": "Pt 1552", "altitude": "1552m", "access": null, "description": null, "latlng": [ "-44.50386582", "168.11810054" ], "routes": [], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/darrans/llawrenny-mountains/pt-1549": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/darrans/llawrenny-mountains/pt-1549", "name": "Pt 1549", "altitude": "1549m", "access": null, "description": null, "latlng": [ "-44.6632881", "167.72707022" ], "routes": [], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/kahurangi/haupiri-range/paradise-pk": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/kahurangi/haupiri-range/paradise-pk", "name": "Paradise Pk", "altitude": "1549m", "access": null, "description": null, "latlng": [ "-40.91075557", "172.62746793" ], "routes": [], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/southland/garvie-mountains/mt-tennyson": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/southland/garvie-mountains/mt-tennyson", "name": "Mt Tennyson", "altitude": "1547m", "access": null, "description": null, "latlng": [ "-45.45164954", "168.82292533" ], "routes": [], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/fiordland/pt-1544": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/fiordland/pt-1544", "name": "Pt 1544", "altitude": "1546m", "access": null, "description": null, "latlng": [ "-45.16657044", "167.29242031" ], "routes": [], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/southland/takitimu-mountains/excelsior-pk": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/southland/takitimu-mountains/excelsior-pk", "name": "Excelsior Pk", "altitude": "1544m", "access": null, "description": null, "latlng": [ "-45.63340057", "167.82439264" ], "routes": [], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/fiordland/kaherekoau-mountains/pt-1542": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/fiordland/kaherekoau-mountains/pt-1542", "name": "Pt 1542", "altitude": "1543m", "access": null, "description": null, "latlng": [ "-45.80641489", "167.24397561" ], "routes": [], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aspiring/marks-range/rampart": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aspiring/marks-range/rampart", "name": "The Rampart", "altitude": "1543m", "access": null, "description": null, "latlng": [ "-44.01124652", "169.19754662" ], "routes": [], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/fiordland/dingwall-mountains/pt-1539": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/fiordland/dingwall-mountains/pt-1539", "name": "Pt 1539", "altitude": "1542m", "access": null, "description": null, "latlng": [ "-45.5333164", "167.08654474" ], "routes": [], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/fiordland/murchison-mountains/pt-1538": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/fiordland/murchison-mountains/pt-1538", "name": "Pt 1538", "altitude": "1539m", "access": null, "description": "Murchison Mountains", "latlng": [ "-45.20465815", "167.4073191" ], "routes": [], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/fiordland/kepler-mountains/mt-tinsley": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/fiordland/kepler-mountains/mt-tinsley", "name": "Mt Tinsley", "altitude": "1538m", "access": null, "description": null, "latlng": [ "-45.38370922", "167.51152433" ], "routes": [], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/canterbury/amuri-range/mt-malingson": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/canterbury/amuri-range/mt-malingson", "name": "Mt Malingson", "altitude": "1537m", "access": null, "description": null, "latlng": [ "-42.4537313", "173.0741299" ], "routes": [], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/lewis-pass-harper-pass/organ-range/shale-pk": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/lewis-pass-harper-pass/organ-range/shale-pk", "name": "Shale Pk", "altitude": "1537m", "access": null, "description": null, "latlng": [ "-42.60797344", "172.63310885" ], "routes": [], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/fiordland/stillwater%E2%80%93doon-mountains/pt-1535": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/fiordland/stillwater%E2%80%93doon-mountains/pt-1535", "name": "Pt 1535", "altitude": "1536m", "access": null, "description": null, "latlng": [ "-45.15295612", "167.41996436" ], "routes": [], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/c58dhau-landsborough/paringa-moeraki-mountains/mariners-pk": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/c58dhau-landsborough/paringa-moeraki-mountains/mariners-pk", "name": "Mariners Pk", "altitude": "1535m", "access": null, "description": null, "latlng": [ "-43.78613643", "169.42448441" ], "routes": [], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/ni/wellington/tararua-range/mt-hector": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/ni/wellington/tararua-range/mt-hector", "name": "Mt Hector", "altitude": "1535m", "access": null, "description": "Tararua Range", "latlng": [ "-40.95184443", "175.28099722" ], "routes": [], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/lewis-pass-harper-pass/glynn-wye-range/jollie-brook": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/lewis-pass-harper-pass/glynn-wye-range/jollie-brook", "name": "Jollie Brook", "altitude": "1529m", "access": null, "description": null, "latlng": [ "-42.72209507", "172.37967795" ], "routes": [], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/fiordland/kepler-mountains/mt-baird": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/fiordland/kepler-mountains/mt-baird", "name": "Mt Baird", "altitude": "1528m", "access": null, "description": null, "latlng": [ "-45.29954239", "167.3367771" ], "routes": [], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/fiordland/murchison-mountains/pt-1526": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/fiordland/murchison-mountains/pt-1526", "name": "Pt 1526", "altitude": "1528m", "access": null, "description": null, "latlng": [ "-45.19378571", "167.51934507" ], "routes": [], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/kahurangi/matiri-range/haystack": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/kahurangi/matiri-range/haystack", "name": "The Haystack", "altitude": "1526m", "access": null, "description": null, "latlng": [ "-41.56036686", "172.32760294" ], "routes": [], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/canterbury/the-hunters-hills/mt-nimrod-kaumira": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/canterbury/the-hunters-hills/mt-nimrod-kaumira", "name": "Mt Nimrod Kaumira", "altitude": "1526m", "access": null, "description": null, "latlng": [ "-44.43578125", "170.80179478" ], "routes": [], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/westland/paparoa-range/mt-uriah": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/westland/paparoa-range/mt-uriah", "name": "Mt Uriah", "altitude": "1524m", "access": null, "description": null, "latlng": [ "-42.01880396", "171.64293466" ], "routes": [], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/kahurangi/allen-range/nugget-knob": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/kahurangi/allen-range/nugget-knob", "name": "Nugget Knob", "altitude": "1522m", "access": null, "description": null, "latlng": [ "-41.43755066", "172.42461341" ], "routes": [], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/southland/eyre-mountains/wether-summit": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/southland/eyre-mountains/wether-summit", "name": "Wether Summit", "altitude": "1522m", "access": null, "description": null, "latlng": [ "-45.41266308", "168.47772994" ], "routes": [], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/ni/tongariro/hauhungatahi": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/ni/tongariro/hauhungatahi", "name": "Hauhungatahi", "altitude": "1522m", "access": null, "description": null, "latlng": [ "-39.22929241", "175.44374561" ], "routes": [], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/c58dhau-landsborough/ben-ohau-range/te-ruataniwha-ben-ohau": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/c58dhau-landsborough/ben-ohau-range/te-ruataniwha-ben-ohau", "name": "Te Ruataniwha Ben Ohau", "altitude": "1522m", "access": null, "description": null, "latlng": [ "-44.26045594", "169.90731376" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/%C5%8Dhau-landsborough/ben-ohau-range/te-ruataniwha-ben-ohau/greta-track", "name": "From Greta Track", "grade": "1,I", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": "1", "commitment": "I", "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": null } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": "The prow of the range juts out into Lake \u014chau and provides a solid 1,000m altitude gain from the Glen Lyon road to the summit. The Greta Loop track (16 km loop) provides easy access to the summit. Back Hut, an old, derelict musterers\u2019 hut (dating from 1890), is passed on the southern track.", "ascent": null } ], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/nelson-lakes-kaik%C5%8Dura/acheron%E2%80%93waihopai-mountains/mt-chisholm": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/nelson-lakes-kaik%C5%8Dura/acheron%E2%80%93waihopai-mountains/mt-chisholm", "name": "Mt Chisholm", "altitude": "1521m", "access": null, "description": null, "latlng": [ "-42.07901355", "173.22725135" ], "routes": [], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/fiordland/kaherekoau-mountains/pt-1516": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/fiordland/kaherekoau-mountains/pt-1516", "name": "Pt 1516", "altitude": "1518m", "access": null, "description": null, "latlng": [ "-45.83520865", "167.22429516" ], "routes": [], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/fiordland/pt-1513": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/fiordland/pt-1513", "name": "Pt 1513", "altitude": "1516m", "access": null, "description": null, "latlng": [ "-45.45461069", "167.29843955" ], "routes": [], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aspiring/serpentine-range/conical-hill": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aspiring/serpentine-range/conical-hill", "name": "Conical Hill", "altitude": "1515m", "access": null, "description": null, "latlng": [ "-44.72139917", "168.1690979" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aspiring/serpentine-range/conical-hill/harris-saddle", "name": "From Harris Saddle", "grade": null, "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": "A popular side trip from Harris Saddle on the Routeburn Track, with good views of the Hollyford valley and Darran Mountains.", "ascent": null } ], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/fiordland/dingwall-mountains/mt-troup": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/fiordland/dingwall-mountains/mt-troup", "name": "Mt Troup", "altitude": "1513m", "access": null, "description": null, "latlng": [ "-45.48660367", "167.12598471" ], "routes": [], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/fiordland/franklin-mountains/pt-1511": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/fiordland/franklin-mountains/pt-1511", "name": "Pt 1511", "altitude": "1512m", "access": null, "description": null, "latlng": [ "-44.92363159", "167.60447638" ], "routes": [], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/kahurangi/allen-range/mt-allen": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/kahurangi/allen-range/mt-allen", "name": "Mt Allen", "altitude": "1511m", "access": null, "description": null, "latlng": [ "-41.41444335", "172.31717506" ], "routes": [], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/ni/taupo/kaimanawa-mountains/ngapuketurua": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/ni/taupo/kaimanawa-mountains/ngapuketurua", "name": "Ngapuketurua", "altitude": "1510m", "access": null, "description": null, "latlng": [ "-39.07723969", "176.03158939" ], "routes": [], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aspiring/skippers-range/pt-1507": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aspiring/skippers-range/pt-1507", "name": "Pt 1507", "altitude": "1510m", "access": null, "description": null, "latlng": [ "-44.45122825", "168.10988384" ], "routes": [], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/fiordland/darran-mountains/the-palisades/the-elephant": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/fiordland/darran-mountains/the-palisades/the-elephant", "name": "The Elephant", "altitude": "1508m", "access": null, "description": "Climbed from Milford Sound", "latlng": [ "-44.590782", "167.8601" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/fiordland/darran-mountains/the-palisades/the-elephant/original-route", "name": "Original Route", "grade": null, "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "Climb the ridge from Dale Point." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Jack Ede, Kevin Robinson, Kevin Pain, 1956." } ], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/lewis-pass-harper-pass/hanmer-range/mt-grant": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/lewis-pass-harper-pass/hanmer-range/mt-grant", "name": "Mt Grant", "altitude": "1507m", "access": null, "description": null, "latlng": [ "-42.41503598", "173.02063334" ], "routes": [], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/ni/hawkes-bay/k%C4%81weka-range/te-pukeohikarua": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/ni/hawkes-bay/k%C4%81weka-range/te-pukeohikarua", "name": "Te Pukeohikarua", "altitude": "1506m", "access": null, "description": null, "latlng": [ "-39.19227305", "176.27295685" ], "routes": [], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/nelson-lakes-kaik%C5%8Dura/blairich-range/blairich": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/nelson-lakes-kaik%C5%8Dura/blairich-range/blairich", "name": "Blairich", "altitude": "1506m", "access": null, "description": null, "latlng": [ "-41.70916985", "173.79679099" ], "routes": [], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aspiring/haast-range/mt-watney": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aspiring/haast-range/mt-watney", "name": "Mt Watney", "altitude": "1504m", "access": null, "description": null, "latlng": [ "-44.05012659", "168.83902513" ], "routes": [], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/nelson-lakes-kaikc58dura/seaward-kaikc58dura-range/mackintosh-knob": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/nelson-lakes-kaikc58dura/seaward-kaikc58dura-range/mackintosh-knob", "name": "Mackintosh Knob", "altitude": "1503m", "access": null, "description": null, "latlng": [ "-42.09844925", "173.75078146" ], "routes": [], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/nelson-lakes/victoria-range/mt-pelion": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/nelson-lakes/victoria-range/mt-pelion", "name": "Mt Pelion", "altitude": "1502m", "access": null, "description": null, "latlng": [ "-42.00792096", "172.08258626" ], "routes": [], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/pinnacle-0": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/pinnacle-0", "name": "Pinnacle", "altitude": "1502m", "access": null, "description": null, "latlng": [ "-42.40643839", "172.04269763" ], "routes": [], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/1499": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/1499", "name": "Pt 1499", "altitude": "1500m", "access": null, "description": null, "latlng": [ "-44.98553965", "167.5212074" ], "routes": [], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/1499-0": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/1499-0", "name": "Pt 1499", "altitude": "1499m", "access": null, "description": null, "latlng": [ "-42.36060959", "172.05311523" ], "routes": [], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/lewis-pass-harper-pass/upper-grey%E2%80%93ahaura-mountains/pt-1497": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/lewis-pass-harper-pass/upper-grey%E2%80%93ahaura-mountains/pt-1497", "name": "Pt 1497", "altitude": "1499m", "access": null, "description": null, "latlng": [ "-42.46563374", "171.91775104" ], "routes": [], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/fiordland/mt-danae": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/fiordland/mt-danae", "name": "Mt Danae", "altitude": "1497m", "access": null, "description": null, "latlng": [ "-45.50255693", "167.03198165" ], "routes": [], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/fiordland/kaherekoau-mountains/pt-1492": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/fiordland/kaherekoau-mountains/pt-1492", "name": "Pt 1492", "altitude": "1495m", "access": null, "description": null, "latlng": [ "-45.88115845", "167.31520414" ], "routes": [], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/fiordland/irene%E2%80%93namu-mountains/double-pk": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/fiordland/irene%E2%80%93namu-mountains/double-pk", "name": "Double Pk", "altitude": "1492m", "access": null, "description": null, "latlng": [ "-45.19685715", "167.26646476" ], "routes": [], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/southland/dunton-range/north-dunton": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/southland/dunton-range/north-dunton", "name": "North Dunton", "altitude": "1492m", "access": null, "description": null, "latlng": [ "-45.2153238", "168.01612682" ], "routes": [], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/nelson-lakes/victoria-range/mt-gore": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/nelson-lakes/victoria-range/mt-gore", "name": "Mt Gore", "altitude": "1491m", "access": null, "description": null, "latlng": [ "-42.3086975", "171.98476599" ], "routes": [], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/kahurangi/allen-range/pike-pk": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/kahurangi/allen-range/pike-pk", "name": "Pike Pk", "altitude": "1488m", "access": null, "description": null, "latlng": [ "-41.44259173", "172.35755912" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/kahurangi/allen-range/pike-pk/north-ridge", "name": "North Ridge", "grade": null, "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": "From the walkwire just beyond Helicopter Flat Hut follow the higher reaching stream through easy contours to reach an easy walk to the summit. Access to Allen Range off east side, from just north of summit drop then sidle to 1300 contour to meet bush line.", "ascent": null } ], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/1485": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/1485", "name": "Pt 1485", "altitude": "1487m", "access": null, "description": null, "latlng": [ "-45.07315085", "167.22778789" ], "routes": [], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/1485-0": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/1485-0", "name": "Pt 1485", "altitude": "1485m", "access": null, "description": null, "latlng": [ "-45.35146475", "167.12953824" ], "routes": [], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/1485-1": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/1485-1", "name": "Pt 1485", "altitude": "1485m", "access": null, "description": null, "latlng": [ "-41.49488498", "172.37020693" ], "routes": [], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/canterbury/oronoko-range/pt-1494": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/canterbury/oronoko-range/pt-1494", "name": "Pt 1494", "altitude": "1485m", "access": null, "description": null, "latlng": [ "-42.74702189", "172.19253914" ], "routes": [], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/nelson-lakes/emily-range/pt-1483": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/nelson-lakes/emily-range/pt-1483", "name": "Pt 1483", "altitude": "1484m", "access": null, "description": null, "latlng": [ "-42.03894469", "172.41427361" ], "routes": [], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/westland/paparoa-range/mt-faraday": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/westland/paparoa-range/mt-faraday", "name": "Mt Faraday", "altitude": "1484m", "access": null, "description": null, "latlng": [ "-42.03687498", "171.57491103" ], "routes": [], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/nelson-lakes-kaikc58dura/inland-kaikoura-range/black-mount": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/nelson-lakes-kaikc58dura/inland-kaikoura-range/black-mount", "name": "Black Mount", "altitude": "1483m", "access": null, "description": null, "latlng": [ "-41.91539228", "173.79328037" ], "routes": [], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/fiordland/franklin-mountains/mt-longsight": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/fiordland/franklin-mountains/mt-longsight", "name": "Mt Longsight", "altitude": "1483m", "access": null, "description": null, "latlng": [ "-44.76466142", "167.56094822" ], "routes": [], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/nelson-lakes-kaikc58dura/seaward-kaikc58dura-range/warder": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/nelson-lakes-kaikc58dura/seaward-kaikc58dura-range/warder", "name": "Warder", "altitude": "1482m", "access": null, "description": null, "latlng": [ "-42.28392155", "173.37343671" ], "routes": [], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/1480": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/1480", "name": "Pt 1480", "altitude": "1481m", "access": null, "description": null, "latlng": [ "-44.49351256", "168.1290363" ], "routes": [], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/1480-0": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/1480-0", "name": "Pt 1480", "altitude": "1480m", "access": null, "description": null, "latlng": [ "-39.36982068", "175.90742649" ], "routes": [], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/ni/gisborne/rauk%C5%ABmara-range/pt-1478": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/ni/gisborne/rauk%C5%ABmara-range/pt-1478", "name": "Pt 1478", "altitude": "1478m", "access": null, "description": null, "latlng": [ "-38.06999219", "177.81343151" ], "routes": [], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/southland/mataura-range/mid-dome": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/southland/mataura-range/mid-dome", "name": "Mid Dome", "altitude": "1478m", "access": null, "description": null, "latlng": [ "-45.58528409", "168.53735536" ], "routes": [], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/fiordland/leaning-pk": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/fiordland/leaning-pk", "name": "Leaning Pk", "altitude": "1478m", "access": null, "description": null, "latlng": [ "-45.50368359", "167.26919678" ], "routes": [], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/fiordland/kilcoy-mountains/mcdonnell-pk": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/fiordland/kilcoy-mountains/mcdonnell-pk", "name": "McDonnell Pk", "altitude": "1477m", "access": null, "description": null, "latlng": [ "-45.62969406", "167.13702287" ], "routes": [], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/c58dhau-landsborough/paringa-moeraki-mountains/pt-1476": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/c58dhau-landsborough/paringa-moeraki-mountains/pt-1476", "name": "Pt 1476", "altitude": "1476m", "access": null, "description": null, "latlng": [ "-43.77491231", "169.44007223" ], "routes": [], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/darrans/llawrenny-mountains/pt-1475": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/darrans/llawrenny-mountains/pt-1475", "name": "Pt 1475", "altitude": "1476m", "access": null, "description": null, "latlng": [ "-44.74147025", "167.68205299" ], "routes": [], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/ni/gisborne/rauk%C5%ABmara-range/puketauhinu": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/ni/gisborne/rauk%C5%ABmara-range/puketauhinu", "name": "Puketauhinu", "altitude": "1475m", "access": null, "description": null, "latlng": [ "-37.88344625", "177.93519413" ], "routes": [], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/1474": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/1474", "name": "Pt 1474", "altitude": "1475m", "access": null, "description": null, "latlng": [ "-45.54465762", "168.75337676" ], "routes": [], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/fiordland/kaherekoau-mountains/pt-1473": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/fiordland/kaherekoau-mountains/pt-1473", "name": "Pt 1473", "altitude": "1474m", "access": null, "description": null, "latlng": [ "-45.82391074", "167.25124157" ], "routes": [], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/lewis-pass-harper-pass/upper-grey%E2%80%93ahaura-mountains/pt-1474": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/lewis-pass-harper-pass/upper-grey%E2%80%93ahaura-mountains/pt-1474", "name": "Pt 1474", "altitude": "1474m", "access": null, "description": null, "latlng": [ "-42.58917654", "171.93874087" ], "routes": [], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/%C5%8Dhau-landsborough/thomas-range/trig-n-tarn": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/%C5%8Dhau-landsborough/thomas-range/trig-n-tarn", "name": "Trig N Tarn", "altitude": "1474m", "access": null, "description": null, "latlng": [ "-43.92024454", "169.22453044" ], "routes": [], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/ni/hawkes-bay/k%C4%81weka-range/te-ruatakaikare": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/ni/hawkes-bay/k%C4%81weka-range/te-ruatakaikare", "name": "Te Ruatakaikare", "altitude": "1473m", "access": null, "description": null, "latlng": [ "-39.21098773", "176.21706186" ], "routes": [], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/kahurangi/arthur-range/hoary-head": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/kahurangi/arthur-range/hoary-head", "name": "Hoary Head", "altitude": "1473m", "access": null, "description": "Arthur Mountains", "latlng": [ "-41.1338214", "172.8046487" ], "routes": [], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/canterbury/cottons-sheep-range/mt-cotton": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/canterbury/cottons-sheep-range/mt-cotton", "name": "Mt Cotton", "altitude": "1471m", "access": null, "description": null, "latlng": [ "-43.2505165", "171.50357239" ], "routes": [], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/kahurangi-richmond/glasgow-range/glasgow-south": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/kahurangi-richmond/glasgow-range/glasgow-south", "name": "Glasgow South", "altitude": "1470m", "access": null, "description": null, "latlng": [ "-41.61159621", "172.06192369" ], "routes": [], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/mt-murchison-0": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/mt-murchison-0", "name": "Mt Murchison", "altitude": "1469m", "access": null, "description": null, "latlng": [ "-41.72872851", "172.49889445" ], "routes": [], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/1467": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/1467", "name": "Pt 1467", "altitude": "1469m", "access": null, "description": null, "latlng": [ "-41.52046063", "172.43944058" ], "routes": [], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/1466": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/1466", "name": "Pt 1466", "altitude": "1467m", "access": null, "description": null, "latlng": [ "-45.80135485", "167.10649056" ], "routes": [], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/kapua": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/kapua", "name": "Kapua", "altitude": "1466m", "access": null, "description": null, "latlng": [ "-37.9816756", "177.91690108" ], "routes": [], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/1465": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/1465", "name": "Pt 1465", "altitude": "1466m", "access": null, "description": null, "latlng": [ "-45.54544894", "167.34846495" ], "routes": [], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/fiordland/cameron-mountains/cone-pk": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/fiordland/cameron-mountains/cone-pk", "name": "Cone Pk", "altitude": "1465m", "access": null, "description": "Above Princess Burn.", "latlng": [ "-45.86020828", "167.03972026" ], "routes": [], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/lewis-pass-harper-pass/upper-grey%E2%80%93ahaura-mountains/pt-1462": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/lewis-pass-harper-pass/upper-grey%E2%80%93ahaura-mountains/pt-1462", "name": "Pt 1462", "altitude": "1464m", "access": null, "description": null, "latlng": [ "-42.47396402", "171.84949966" ], "routes": [], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/lodestone": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/lodestone", "name": "Lodestone", "altitude": "1462m", "access": null, "description": null, "latlng": [ "-41.17040796", "172.74634422" ], "routes": [], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/mt-crawford": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/mt-crawford", "name": "Mt Crawford", "altitude": "1462m", "access": null, "description": null, "latlng": [ "-40.81879585", "175.35707838" ], "routes": [], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/1461": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/1461", "name": "Pt 1461", "altitude": "1462m", "access": null, "description": null, "latlng": [ "-44.98530456", "167.82874183" ], "routes": [], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/mt-nicholas": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/mt-nicholas", "name": "Mt Nicholas", "altitude": "1461m", "access": null, "description": null, "latlng": [ "-45.13198108", "168.39896498" ], "routes": [], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/bald-range/rangi-taipo": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/bald-range/rangi-taipo", "name": "Rangi Taipo", "altitude": "1459m", "access": null, "description": null, "latlng": [ "-42.7624835", "171.49955184" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/bald-range/rangi-taipo/kellys-hill", "name": "From Kellys Hill", "grade": "1", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": "1", "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "A very long day outing from Carroll Hut. You must firstly climb Kellys Hill, descending steeply to the saddle on the Bald Range, and then follow a series of terraces to avoid the numerous buttresses on the ridgeback. There are steep ascents on slabby rock as the final approach to the summit is made. The track leading to the Taipo River is overgrown." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": null } ], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/rocky-tor": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/rocky-tor", "name": "Rocky Tor", "altitude": "1459m", "access": null, "description": "Lyell Range", "latlng": [ "-41.71755658", "172.13967167" ], "routes": [], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aspiring/mckerrow-range/pt-1455": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aspiring/mckerrow-range/pt-1455", "name": "Pt 1455", "altitude": "1456m", "access": null, "description": null, "latlng": [ "-44.54719675", "169.16679943" ], "routes": [], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/otago/whitecoomb-range/whitecoomb": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/otago/whitecoomb-range/whitecoomb", "name": "Whitecoomb", "altitude": "1455m", "access": null, "description": "Whitecoomb Range", "latlng": [ "-45.59488132", "169.08335306" ], "routes": [], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/fiordland/turret-range/pt-1450": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/fiordland/turret-range/pt-1450", "name": "Pt 1450", "altitude": "1450m", "access": null, "description": ".", "latlng": [ "-45.57507159", "167.34554707" ], "routes": [], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/westland/paparoa-range/mt-euclid": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/westland/paparoa-range/mt-euclid", "name": "Mt Euclid", "altitude": "1450m", "access": "Best approach is via an unmarked track off of a logging skid by the Little Totara River (See topo). Access to base of track is possible with 4wd or take a mountain bike ~10km. The track is roughly flagged up to Mt Fleming then traverse around to the south face of Euclid. Many potential bivvy rocks with small tarns dotted around the basin, or good camping next to the lake.", "description": "A stunning granite peak in the Paparoa Ranges. The South Face of Mt Euclid has a huge amount of rock climbing potential. Many routes are possible on the 250 metres high vertical face. The rock type is granite, featured with great friction and many quartz veins for holds. Protection is good in general, but most placements require some excavation of vegetation.", "latlng": [ "-41.96060857", "171.5959361" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/westland/paparoa-range/mt-euclid/euclidean-geometry", "name": "Euclidean Geometry", "grade": "19", "topo_ref": "EG", "image": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/route/Mt%20Euclid%20Route%20topo.jpg?itok=9zXQuQRU", "images": [ { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/route/Mt%20Euclid%20Route%20topo.jpg?itok=9zXQuQRU", "height": "325", "width": "183" } ], "length": "240m", "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": "30m", "bolts": null, "trad": true, "ewbank": "17", "description": "Start up left slanting groove, left of main central gash in buttress. After 20m traverse to pillar on arete and move around corner to belay on small ledge." }, { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": "30m", "bolts": null, "trad": true, "ewbank": "18", "description": "Start up corner, delicately traverse left and up, onto slab up to a belay in corner." }, { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": "32m", "bolts": null, "trad": true, "ewbank": "19", "description": "Climb the corner and chimney through a large protruding flake, mantle and continue up corner to a belay out right on ledge left of roofs." }, { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": "28m", "bolts": null, "trad": true, "ewbank": "18", "description": "Climb the thin face right of belay, trend left using narrow ledges to access best cracks up face. Exit onto grassy ledge using crack out left." }, { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": "40m", "bolts": null, "trad": true, "ewbank": "17", "description": "From grassy ledge climb up the blocky gully to the next grassy ledge. belay up left. Make sure to bring slings for the chock stones." }, { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": "30m", "bolts": null, "trad": true, "ewbank": "14", "description": "Up a blocky wall to toe of summit ridge. A more direct finish could be done up the prominent pillar and open book corner above pitch 5." }, { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": "50m", "bolts": null, "trad": true, "ewbank": "10", "description": "Scramble up blocky summit ridge to summit of slightly lower peak." } ], "quality": 2, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": true, "description": "", "ascent": "Peter Joynt, Alastair McDowell, January 2015" } ], "places": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/mt-euclid/south-face", "name": "South Face", "altitude": "1450m", "access": "Follow the 4WD track past 'Lockington Pakihi' to skid-site at base of Mt Fleming NW ridge (361m a.s.l.). Follow the marked track (permolat markers/pink tape) to the bushline, traverse Mt Fleming, sidle through benches to south face of Mt Euclid. Many potential bivvy rocks with small tarns dotted around the basin, or good camping next to the lake.", "description": "The South Face of Mt Euclid has a huge amount of rock climbing potential. Many routes are possible on the 250 metres high vertical face. The rock type is granite, featured with great friction and many quartz veins for holds. Protection is good in general, but most placements require some excavation.", "latlng": [ "-41.961374", "171.596987" ], "routes": [], "places": [], "image": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/wide/public/image/Mt%20Euclid%20Alastair%20%2817%29.JPG?itok=EWG4GCkw", "images": [ { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/wide/public/image/Mt%20Euclid%20Alastair%20%2817%29.JPG?itok=EWG4GCkw", "height": "506", "width": "900" }, { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/image/Mt%20Euclid%20Alastair%20%2810%29.JPG?itok=A2Ry7L_a", "height": "325", "width": "247" } ] } ], "image": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/wide/public/image/Approach%20topo.jpg?itok=dU9GMUpT", "images": [ { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/wide/public/image/Approach%20topo.jpg?itok=dU9GMUpT", "height": "509", "width": "900" }, { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/image/Mt%20Euclid%20Alastair%20%2817%29_0.JPG?itok=EqXdcscK", "height": "183", "width": "325" } ] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/mt-richards": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/mt-richards", "name": "Mt Richards", "altitude": "1450m", "access": null, "description": null, "latlng": [ "-44.22217974", "168.50362729" ], "routes": [], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/summit-rock": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/summit-rock", "name": "Summit Rock", "altitude": "1450m", "access": null, "description": null, "latlng": [ "-45.42545505", "170.07064504" ], "routes": [], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/ni/hawkes-bay/k%C4%81weka-range/manson": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/ni/hawkes-bay/k%C4%81weka-range/manson", "name": "Manson", "altitude": "1450m", "access": null, "description": null, "latlng": [ "-39.27652622", "176.25838786" ], "routes": [], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/otago/chain-hills/pt-1447": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/otago/chain-hills/pt-1447", "name": "Pt 1447", "altitude": "1448m", "access": null, "description": ".", "latlng": [ "-44.74181368", "169.69381246" ], "routes": [], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/arthurs-pass/main-divide/mt-byrne": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/arthurs-pass/main-divide/mt-byrne", "name": "Mt Byrne", "altitude": "1448m", "access": "from Locke Stream Hut", "description": "Mt Byrne is a peak near Locke Stream Hut on the upper Taramakau River", "latlng": [ "-42.74940728", "171.86136246" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/arthurs-pass/main-divide/mt-byrne/mt-byrne-locke-stream-hut", "name": "Mt Byrne from Locke Stream Hut", "grade": "1", "topo_ref": null, "image": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/route/070408%20Byrne%20Route.jpg?itok=m5rabpzW", "images": [ { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/route/070408%20Byrne%20Route.jpg?itok=m5rabpzW", "height": "210", "width": "325" } ], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": "1", "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "Follow Locke Stream well up until the scrub thins and then take the easiest looking gut on to the ridge South of Foy Pass. Then follow the rolling tussock ridge to the Summit ( which strangely is not quite the highest ground around!---you may miss it)" } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": null } ], "places": [], "image": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/wide/public/image/070408%20Byrne%20Route.jpg?itok=cPsQbsio", "images": [ { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/wide/public/image/070408%20Byrne%20Route.jpg?itok=cPsQbsio", "height": "490", "width": "760" } ] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/nelson-lakes-kaik%C5%8Dura/acheron%E2%80%93waihopai-mountains/jacks-brother": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/nelson-lakes-kaik%C5%8Dura/acheron%E2%80%93waihopai-mountains/jacks-brother", "name": "Jacks Brother", "altitude": "1447m", "access": null, "description": null, "latlng": [ "-41.7783563", "173.49810068" ], "routes": [], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/mt-lodge": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/mt-lodge", "name": "Mt Lodge", "altitude": "1447m", "access": null, "description": null, "latlng": [ "-42.10033405", "171.53841138" ], "routes": [], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/mt-pluvius": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/mt-pluvius", "name": "Mt Pluvius", "altitude": "1446m", "access": null, "description": null, "latlng": [ "-45.10690878", "167.3632635" ], "routes": [], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/otago/dunstan-range/pt-1440": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/otago/dunstan-range/pt-1440", "name": "Pt 1440", "altitude": "1446m", "access": null, "description": null, "latlng": [ "-44.59610443", "169.6074142" ], "routes": [], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/fiordland/llawrenny-peaks/mt-philipps": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/fiordland/llawrenny-peaks/mt-philipps", "name": "Mt Philipps", "altitude": "1446m", "access": null, "description": "Mt Phillips lies across from Mitre Peak on the opposite side of Sinbad Gully.", "latlng": [ "-44.66687366", "167.88217384" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/fiordland/llawrenny-peaks/mt-philipps/east-ridge", "name": "East Ridge", "grade": null, "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "Follow the bush spur out of Sinbad Gully to the East Ridge. The upper section of the ridge is very exposed and provides panoramic views back into the Darran Range." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "T Barfoot, DE Cooper, Feb 1955." }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/fiordland/llawrenny-peaks/mt-philipps/east-face", "name": "East Face", "grade": null, "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "Follow the obvious waterfall opposite Deep Water Basin into a left-tending basin that climbs steep bush to the southern slopes of Mt Phillips. The summit ridge is steep, exposed and exciting." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "First ascent unknown." } ], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/arthurs-pass/spike": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/arthurs-pass/spike", "name": "The Spike", "altitude": "1440m", "access": null, "description": null, "latlng": [ "-42.96703768", "171.62107944" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/arthurs-pass/the-spike/gunbarrel-scree", "name": "Gunbarrel Scree", "grade": "2", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": "2", "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "Approached via the long, very steep, dangerous, scree shoot just downstream of the East Edwards River confluence. This shoot is known locally as the Gunbarrel Scree. A quick observation of the riverbed should leave you in no doubt as to why! Climb the scree upwards and southwards into a narrow gut joining the saddle between the two peaks. Both summits can be climbed on rotten rock from this point. Wear a helmet, and keep looking up! A dangerous route." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": null }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/arthurs-pass/the-spike/south-west-ridge", "name": "South West Ridge", "grade": "1,II", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": "1", "commitment": "II", "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": null } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": "From the confluence of the the Edwards and Mingha Rivers, head up through reasonably open beech forest. Trend towards the Mingha side to avoid a bluff, then follow the ridge to bushline. Two minor sections of bluff as well as a pocket of thick juvenile beech can be passed on the Mingha side. Travel from bushline to the summit is short and straightforward. A 4\u20136hrs round trip.", "ascent": null } ], "places": [], "image": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/wide/public/image/1-P2080009.JPG?itok=QSWDiK81", "images": [ { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/wide/public/image/1-P2080009.JPG?itok=QSWDiK81", "height": "600", "width": "900" } ] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/arowhana": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/arowhana", "name": "Arowhana", "altitude": "1440m", "access": null, "description": null, "latlng": [ "-38.10939437", "177.86290738" ], "routes": [], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/canterbury/harper-range/pt-1437": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/canterbury/harper-range/pt-1437", "name": "Pt 1437", "altitude": "1439m", "access": null, "description": null, "latlng": [ "-43.63659145", "171.01803772" ], "routes": [], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/maungaorangi": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/maungaorangi", "name": "Maungaorangi", "altitude": "1436m", "access": null, "description": null, "latlng": [ "-39.07880835", "176.17276005" ], "routes": [], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/fiordland/cameron-mountains/1436": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/fiordland/cameron-mountains/1436", "name": "Pt 1436", "altitude": "1436m", "access": null, "description": null, "latlng": [ "-45.8226057", "167.01010351" ], "routes": [], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/1436-0": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/1436-0", "name": "Pt 1436", "altitude": "1436m", "access": null, "description": null, "latlng": [ "-45.56192888", "167.29804878" ], "routes": [], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/ni/manawatu-whanganui/ruahine-range/otupae-range/pt-1435": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/ni/manawatu-whanganui/ruahine-range/otupae-range/pt-1435", "name": "Pt 1435", "altitude": "1435m", "access": null, "description": null, "latlng": [ "-39.52014088", "176.18612157" ], "routes": [], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/lewis-pass-harper-pass/nelson-tops/macs-knob": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/lewis-pass-harper-pass/nelson-tops/macs-knob", "name": "Macs Knob", "altitude": "1435m", "access": null, "description": "An outlier of the Nelson Tops, above Lake Sumner and the Hurunui River.", "latlng": [ "-42.67279164", "172.13739129" ], "routes": [], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/mt-wera": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/mt-wera", "name": "Mt Wera", "altitude": "1435m", "access": null, "description": null, "latlng": [ "-45.25460278", "167.28499407" ], "routes": [], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/lewis-pass-harper-pass/organ-range/pt-1433": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/lewis-pass-harper-pass/organ-range/pt-1433", "name": "Pt 1433", "altitude": "1433m", "access": null, "description": null, "latlng": [ "-42.62043757", "172.59280746" ], "routes": [], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/kathryn-peak": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/kathryn-peak", "name": "Kathryn Pk", "altitude": "1433m", "access": null, "description": "Heath Mountains", "latlng": [ "-45.76778161", "167.0493736" ], "routes": [], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/arthurs-pass/main-divide/mt-wilkinson": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/arthurs-pass/main-divide/mt-wilkinson", "name": "Mt Wilkinson", "altitude": "1430m", "access": "from Locke Stream Hut on the upper Taramakau River", "description": "Peak adjacent to Locke Stream Hut on the Taramakau River.", "latlng": [ "-42.76226366", "171.82213783" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/arthurs-pass/main-divide/mt-wilkinson/mt-wilkinson-traverse", "name": "Mt Wilkinson traverse", "grade": "1", "topo_ref": null, "image": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/route/071221%20Wilkinson%20route.jpg?itok=SmsIzNTP", "images": [ { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/route/071221%20Wilkinson%20route.jpg?itok=SmsIzNTP", "height": "171", "width": "325" } ], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": "1", "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "From Locke Stream Hut, follow up Locke Stream, then Wilkinson Creek. At the junction with the first tributary coming in on the true left (at approx 1000m asl UPDATED Feb 2017) - choose the easiest way up loose and steep but well vegetated terrain to the main ridge just South of the summit (as indicated on the attached map) or to the NE ridge.\r\n\r\nDescent down the long bushy ridge to the Taramakau River is preferable to retracing the upward route. (The initial scrub barrier however is memorable.).\r\n\r\nUPDATE Feb 2017 - Decent down from the NE ridge is straightforward but requires care in the steep tussocks & gullies - takes about 1 hour from the summit to the junction at 1000m asl and avoids the scrub & bush work.\r\n\r\nUpdated by Daryll Thomson after ascent in Feb 2017" } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Stewart Robertson 2007" } ], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/kahurangi/arthur-range/mt-crusader": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/kahurangi/arthur-range/mt-crusader", "name": "Mt Crusader", "altitude": "1428m", "access": null, "description": "A striking shark's tooth-shaped peak, prominent on the skyline when seen from the Nelson urban area.", "latlng": [ "-41.145141", "-41.145141" ], "routes": [], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/fiordland/1426": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/fiordland/1426", "name": "Pt 1426", "altitude": "1426m", "access": null, "description": "Head of the Oonah Burn", "latlng": [ "-45.42793352", "167.23318853" ], "routes": [], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/1426-0": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/1426-0", "name": "Pt 1426", "altitude": "1426m", "access": null, "description": null, "latlng": [ "-37.93633269", "177.96390593" ], "routes": [], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/1426-1": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/1426-1", "name": "Pt 1426", "altitude": "1426m", "access": null, "description": null, "latlng": [ "-41.50056858", "172.42284813" ], "routes": [], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/fiordland/1425": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/fiordland/1425", "name": "Pt 1425", "altitude": "1425m", "access": null, "description": "Above Irene River", "latlng": [ "-45.12857258", "167.32675003" ], "routes": [], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/1425-0": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/1425-0", "name": "Pt 1425", "altitude": "1425m", "access": null, "description": null, "latlng": [ "-41.37840165", "172.31277641" ], "routes": [], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/fiordland/stillwater%E2%80%93doon-mountains/pt-1424": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/fiordland/stillwater%E2%80%93doon-mountains/pt-1424", "name": "Pt 1424", "altitude": "1424m", "access": null, "description": null, "latlng": [ "-45.08711605", "167.30916405" ], "routes": [], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/westland/victoria-range/1419": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/westland/victoria-range/1419", "name": "Pt 1419", "altitude": "1419m", "access": null, "description": null, "latlng": [ "-42.08809092", "172.08745743" ], "routes": [], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/aubrey-pk": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/aubrey-pk", "name": "Aubrey Pk", "altitude": "1415m", "access": null, "description": null, "latlng": [ "-45.60704768", "167.09949745" ], "routes": [], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/mt-martin": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/mt-martin", "name": "Mt Martin", "altitude": "1413m", "access": null, "description": null, "latlng": [ "-45.31610077", "167.39907144" ], "routes": [], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/raukumara-range/raukumara": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/raukumara-range/raukumara", "name": "Raukumara", "altitude": "1413m", "access": null, "description": "Raukumara Range", "latlng": [ "-37.76314811", "178.12580526" ], "routes": [], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/fiordland/murchison-mountains/pt-1419": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/fiordland/murchison-mountains/pt-1419", "name": "Pt 1419", "altitude": "1410m", "access": null, "description": "Above Woodrow Burn.", "latlng": [ "-45.17563224", "167.47898532" ], "routes": [], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/canterbury/the-brothers": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/canterbury/the-brothers", "name": "The Brothers", "altitude": "1409m", "access": null, "description": "Peaks above Lake Sumner.", "latlng": [ "-42.7298", "172.2474" ], "routes": [], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/fiordland/irene%E2%80%93namu-mountains/pt-1406": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/fiordland/irene%E2%80%93namu-mountains/pt-1406", "name": "Pt 1406", "altitude": "1406m", "access": null, "description": null, "latlng": [ "-45.18687155", "167.24704562" ], "routes": [], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/tower-peak": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/tower-peak", "name": "Tower Pk", "altitude": "1406m", "access": null, "description": null, "latlng": [ "-46.01765326", "167.04909342" ], "routes": [], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/fiordland/franklin-mountains/pt-1405": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/fiordland/franklin-mountains/pt-1405", "name": "Pt 1405", "altitude": "1405m", "access": null, "description": ".", "latlng": [ "-44.84635978", "167.59135068" ], "routes": [], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/mt-memphis": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/mt-memphis", "name": "Mt Memphis", "altitude": "1405m", "access": null, "description": null, "latlng": [ "-45.59219615", "167.16270291" ], "routes": [], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/canterbury-westland-alps/diedrichs-range/squall-pk": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/canterbury-westland-alps/diedrichs-range/squall-pk", "name": "Squall Pk", "altitude": "1405m", "access": null, "description": null, "latlng": [ "-42.95934", "171.113777" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/canterbury-westland-alps/diedrichs-range/squall-pk/cedar-flats", "name": "From Cedar Flats", "grade": "1-,I", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": "0m", "pitches": [ { "alpine": "1-", "commitment": "I", "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": null } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": "0", "natural_pro": false, "description": "A marked route onto the northern Diedrichs Range leads up from Cedar Flats to Squall Peak. Maintained by Permolat, it begins on the true left of Percy Creek about 20 metres up from the Toaroha River at Cedar Flats. It is followable with care but partly overgrown in places.", "ascent": null } ], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/mt-hutton-0": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/mt-hutton-0", "name": "Mt Hutton", "altitude": "1400m", "access": null, "description": null, "latlng": [ "-41.90658458", "172.62161419" ], "routes": [], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/pouakai": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/pouakai", "name": "Pouakai", "altitude": "1400m", "access": null, "description": "Pouakai Range", "latlng": [ "-39.23777647", "174.01422248" ], "routes": [], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/fiordland/princess-mountains/beatrice-pks": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/fiordland/princess-mountains/beatrice-pks", "name": "Beatrice Pks", "altitude": "1395m", "access": null, "description": "tba", "latlng": [ "-46.0537", "167.191" ], "routes": [], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/arthurs-pass/kelly-range-0/kellys-hill": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/arthurs-pass/kelly-range-0/kellys-hill", "name": "Kellys Hill", "altitude": "1394m", "access": null, "description": null, "latlng": null, "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/arthurs-pass/kelly-range-0/kellys-hill/kelly-saddle", "name": "Via Kelly Saddle", "grade": "1", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": "1", "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "Simple climb from Kelly Saddle and the Carroll Hut. It is a 2-hour climb from Kelly Shelter on Highway 73 to Carroll Hut. The TV repeater is actually on a higher lump (1408m)." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": null } ], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/westland/paparoa-range/three-sisters": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/westland/paparoa-range/three-sisters", "name": "Three Sisters", "altitude": "1374m", "access": null, "description": "tba", "latlng": [ "-41.9924", "171.5922" ], "routes": [], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/c58dhau-landsborough/barrier-range/ram-hill": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/c58dhau-landsborough/barrier-range/ram-hill", "name": "Ram Hill", "altitude": "1368m", "access": null, "description": null, "latlng": [ "-44.095", "169.82" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/%C5%8Dhau-landsborough/barrier-range/ram-hill/temple-roadend", "name": "From the Temple Roadend", "grade": "1,I", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": "1", "commitment": "I", "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": null } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": "From the Temple carpark follow the signposts up the southern jowl of the ram\u2019s head and cross the neck to reach the topknot.", "ascent": "First ascent unknown" } ], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/ni/wellington/tararua-range/tararua-pks": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/ni/wellington/tararua-range/tararua-pks", "name": "Tararua Pks", "altitude": "1325m", "access": null, "description": null, "latlng": [ "-40.9203", "175.3241" ], "routes": [], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/fiordland/stuart-mountains/turret-pks": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/fiordland/stuart-mountains/turret-pks", "name": "Turret Pks", "altitude": "1317m", "access": null, "description": null, "latlng": [ "-45.1237", "167.7554" ], "routes": [], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aspiring/mckerrow-range/four-pks": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aspiring/mckerrow-range/four-pks", "name": "The Four Pks", "altitude": "1305m", "access": null, "description": null, "latlng": [ "-44.4068", "169.3038" ], "routes": [], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/fiordland/darran-mountains/the-lion": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/fiordland/darran-mountains/the-lion", "name": "The Lion", "altitude": "1302m", "access": null, "description": "Darran Mountains", "latlng": [ "-44.610031", "167.884282" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/fiordland/darran-mountains/the-lion/original-route", "name": "Original Route", "grade": null, "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "Take the ridge dropping to the observatory in Harrison Cove, staying on the crest of the ridge for its entire length." } ], "quality": 1, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Austen Deans, Raymond Taylor, Edgar Williams, Jan 1954." }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/fiordland/darran-mountains/the-lion/north-east-ridge", "name": "North-East Ridge", "grade": null, "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "Climb the ridge between the Harrison and Pembroke Creek." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "Lyn Crawford, Jack Ede, Brian Hearfield, Gerald Holdsworth, Jan 1959." } ], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/fiordland/marguerite-pks": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/fiordland/marguerite-pks", "name": "Marguerite Pks", "altitude": "1292m", "access": null, "description": null, "latlng": [ "-45.0143", "167.4761" ], "routes": [], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/c58dhau-landsborough/bannock-brae-range/bannock-brae": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/c58dhau-landsborough/bannock-brae-range/bannock-brae", "name": "Bannock Brae", "altitude": "1245m", "access": null, "description": null, "latlng": [ "-43.652389", "169.65459" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/c58dhau-landsborough/bannock-brae-range/bannock-brae/west-ridge", "name": "West Ridge", "grade": "1,I", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": "0m", "pitches": [ { "alpine": "1", "commitment": "I", "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": null } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": "0", "natural_pro": false, "description": "The open creek bed at BX14 275 618 provides good access to high on the ridge, taking the true left branch at the 360m contour. From Pt 949m a cut trail assists through the scrub (February 2019).", "ascent": null } ], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/fiordland/darran-mountains/cascade-pk": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/fiordland/darran-mountains/cascade-pk", "name": "Cascade Pk", "altitude": "1209m", "access": null, "description": "Bowen Valley", "latlng": [ "-44.639444", "167.926854" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/fiordland/darran-mountains/cascade-pk/south-ridge", "name": "South Ridge", "grade": null, "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": "First ascent unknown." } ], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/kahurangi/lookout-range/devils-thumb": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/kahurangi/lookout-range/devils-thumb", "name": "Devil's Thumb", "altitude": "1206m", "access": "WAM maps say Kahurangi NP at upper altitude and summit, and a corridor on eastern (Dart River) side.", "description": "1206m horn visible from 50km NE. Limestone on Wangapeka River side, marble on Dart River side.", "latlng": [ "-41.44624", "172.62342" ], "routes": [], "places": [], "image": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/wide/public/image/Devil%27s%20Thumb.jpg?itok=r1b2M_vF", "images": [ { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/wide/public/image/Devil%27s%20Thumb.jpg?itok=r1b2M_vF", "height": "818", "width": "1090" } ] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/fiordland/irene%E2%80%93namu-mountains/trio-pks": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/fiordland/irene%E2%80%93namu-mountains/trio-pks", "name": "Trio Pks", "altitude": "1183m", "access": null, "description": null, "latlng": [ "-45.2063", "167.0848" ], "routes": [], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/fiordland/dark-cloud-range/tower-hills": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/fiordland/dark-cloud-range/tower-hills", "name": "Tower Hills", "altitude": "1045m", "access": null, "description": "tba", "latlng": [ "-45.9081", "166.7569" ], "routes": [], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/canterbury/the-sisters": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/canterbury/the-sisters", "name": "The Sisters", "altitude": "1044m", "access": null, "description": "Lake Sumner area.", "latlng": [ "-42.7647", "172.2791" ], "routes": [], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aspiring/humboldt-mountains/sarpedon": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/aspiring/humboldt-mountains/sarpedon", "name": "Sarpedon", "altitude": "213m", "access": null, "description": "Accessible from Park Pass and the Park Glacier or Lake Unknown.", "latlng": [ "-44.58532067", "168.2419791" ], "routes": [], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/c58dhau-landsborough/huxley-range/point-2082": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/c58dhau-landsborough/huxley-range/point-2082", "name": "Point 2082", "altitude": null, "access": "Head up Birchwood road up the Ahuriri river for an hour to the canyon creek trail (road has got a bit more dodgy recently, little bit of clearance needed - an outback was fine). You can see the face from the car park. From where the marked trail ends above the waterfalls, follow the cairns up the scree to the base of the route (50m left of foot of the buttress, low 1st bolt). About 4-5 hours walk in from car.", "description": null, "latlng": null, "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/c58dhau-landsborough/huxley-range/point-2082/blue-moon", "name": "Blue Moon", "grade": "22", "topo_ref": "44.178388, 169.551444", "image": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/2024-04/Tubulance%20topo.png?itok=MmGSNvkU", "images": [ { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/2024-04/Tubulance%20topo.png?itok=MmGSNvkU", "height": "232", "width": "325" }, { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/2024-04/Screenshot%202024-04-05%20at%201.53.19%20PM.png?itok=Qy5RQMHW", "height": "232", "width": "325" }, { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/max_325x325/public/2024-04/Screenshot%202024-04-07%20at%205.44.17%20PM.png?itok=DfYRSj6S", "height": "325", "width": "295" } ], "length": "160m", "pitches": [ { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": "25m", "bolts": "7", "trad": true, "ewbank": "20", "description": "Pitch 1 - 25m, grade 20, 7 bolts & trad\r\n\tStart at cairn, a few metres left of first bolt. Traverse up and right with stemming feet on small holds to first bolt. After 4th bolt move right into crack, good cam placement. Pull through 2 cruxy lips then easy ground to DBA" }, { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": "35m", "bolts": "4", "trad": false, "ewbank": "17", "description": "Diagonally up and right from anchor past 2 bolts to corner with small gear. Up onto the top of pillar, past another bolt. Move up and left from bolt, crux through lip with good cam. Pass one more bolt then scramble up through easy ground, trending right to ledge and DBA" }, { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": "35m", "bolts": "8", "trad": true, "ewbank": "22", "description": "Bolt straight above the anchor then follow the crack. Follow 2 bolts on face above, making balancy delicate moves on small holds. Clip a long sling to the bolt on your left then head up through the groove and large detached block on the right to the ledge. Step right to the bolt on next headwall. 2 ropes essential to avoid drag. Tricky moves up through more bolts and through left side of small roof. Easy to anchor" }, { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": "25m", "bolts": "8", "trad": true, "ewbank": "20", "description": "Gear in the crack up and left of the anchor, then traverse right to the first bolt. Crimpy face climbing up to the anchor. At the last bolt don\u2019t be tempted by the easy ledge out right - go straight up past the bolt for full value" }, { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": "25m", "bolts": "6", "trad": true, "ewbank": "21", "description": "The money pitch. Up past 1st bolt, then follow crack up and right. Good cam then traverse left on ledge to bolt on arete. Take a breather and take in the exposure, then power up the arete past and mantle onto ledge. Head right and up to next ledge up large crack / block. DBA on your right on next ledge" }, { "alpine": null, "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": "15m", "bolts": "1", "trad": true, "ewbank": "16", "description": "Short pitch up final headwall with good gear in horizontal cracks. Top out with trad anchor. Easy walk off, follow cairns through tussocks back to camp. Optional swim in the lake on the way down. Good bivvy spot 100m from base of route with water source." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": "8", "natural_pro": true, "description": "Head up Birchwood road up the Ahuriri river for an hour to the canyon creek trail (road has got a bit more dodgy recently, little bit of clearance needed - an outback was fine). You can see the face from the car park. From where the marked trail ends above the waterfalls, follow the cairns up the scree to the base of the route (50m left of foot of the buttress, low 1st bolt). About 4-5 hours walk in from car. 160m / 6 pitches, crux 22. Mixed trad with bolts (single rack up to # 2 camalot) , all anchors bolted with rap rings or chains (although it's much nicer to walk off the back, optional detour to swim in the lake.) Decent camping spot 100m from base of route , we had 3 tents there no problem. Mainly balancy face climbing through generally good rock, although there are still some loose bits around. Best climbed in the morning while the suns still on it before it gets too cold!", "ascent": "Maria Koo, Joe Collinson 2024" } ], "places": [], "image": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/wide/public/2024-04/Tubulance%20topo.png?itok=Ki5rmJoP", "images": [ { "src": "https://climbnz.org.nz/sites/default/files/styles/wide/public/2024-04/Tubulance%20topo.png?itok=Ki5rmJoP", "height": "779", "width": "1090" } ] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/c58dhau-landsborough/naumann-range/pk-2291": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/c58dhau-landsborough/naumann-range/pk-2291", "name": "Pk 2291", "altitude": null, "access": null, "description": "\u201cMt Booth\u201d is a bulky peak when seen from Apricot Flat with a distinct permanent snow ramp leading to the summit.", "latlng": null, "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/c58dhau-landsborough/naumann-range/pk-2291/hopkins", "name": "From the Hopkins", "grade": "1,I", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": "0m", "pitches": [ { "alpine": "1", "commitment": "I", "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": null } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": "0", "natural_pro": false, "description": "The summit is easily gained via a distinct permanent snow ramp from the south, of a combination of scree and gently-angled, hard, clean rock from the north.", "ascent": "Rex Booth, A McD Vincent, Minson, December 1934" } ], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/canterbury-westland-alps/browning-range/cairn-pk": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/canterbury-westland-alps/browning-range/cairn-pk", "name": "Cairn Pk", "altitude": null, "access": null, "description": null, "latlng": [ "-42.921075", "171.253338" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/canterbury-westland-alps/browning-range/cairn-pk/lathrop-saddle-whitehorn-ridge-traverse", "name": "Lathrop Saddle\u2013Whitehorn Ridge Traverse", "grade": "1,I", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": "0m", "pitches": [ { "alpine": "1", "commitment": "I", "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": null } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": "0", "natural_pro": false, "description": "From Lathrop Saddle, the Browning Range can be followed to a bluff at about J33 677081 / BV19 577 465. Though climbable, with heavier packs this obstacle can be passed on the Styx side about 100 metres down. As you might infer, Cairn Peak has a big cairn on it. There are often rock wrens around, but they didn\u2019t build it. The basins through here are very pleasant, and Tyndalls Knob can be bypassed in them leading to Whitehorn Ridge.\nFabulous but open campsites exist on Whitehorn Ridge at about the 1500-metre contour with\ntarns. Below the 1440-metre contour, the ridge drops on stable rock and tussock bluffs. These can be bypassed via the old Whitehorn Bivvy site at J33 658061 / BV19 558 445 (not the position marked on older maps). The partly collapsed bivvy has been removed. To bypass from the 1440-metre contour on the ridge, head east and descend the marked creek that heads south, then sidle across a basin to Whitehorn Ridge again by the 1300-metre contour.\nFollow the ridge down on tussock leads. A very overgrown track begins in the scrub basin below here and white permolat may be found at J33 659047 / BV19 559 431. It is just followable, with care, and after about 500 metres leads into a narrow channel gully overhung with scrub that gives fairly open travel for some while. Markers disappear. When it gets rougher, another gully 30 metres to the true right also gives fairly open travel. When that gets gnarly, the ridge 100 metres to the true left leads down to finish about 100 metres west of the Crawford swingbridge. Expect to bushbash.\nTimes: Lathrop Saddle to Whitehorn Ridge scrubline, about 6 hrs; Whitehorn Ridge scrubline to Crawford Forks, 2\u20133 hrs", "ascent": null }, { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/canterbury-westland-alps/browning-range/cairn-pk/styx-river", "name": "From Styx River", "grade": "1-,I", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": "0m", "pitches": [ { "alpine": "1-", "commitment": "I", "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": null } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": "0", "natural_pro": false, "description": "From Mid Styx Hut there is a marked route onto the tops of Cairn Peak.\nMid Styx Hut (4 bunks) on the true left of the Styx River, and tracks to it, are currently maintained by Permolat.", "ascent": null } ], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/canterbury-westland-alps/toaroha-range/mt-bannatyne": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/canterbury-westland-alps/toaroha-range/mt-bannatyne", "name": "Mt Bannatyne", "altitude": null, "access": null, "description": null, "latlng": null, "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/canterbury-westland-alps/toaroha-range/mt-bannatyne/zit-saddle-toaroha-saddle-traverse", "name": "Zit Saddle\u2013Toaroha Saddle Traverse", "grade": "1,I", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": "0m", "pitches": [ { "alpine": "1", "commitment": "I", "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": null } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": "0", "natural_pro": false, "description": "Continuing south, the ridge is dry. Sidle through a rocky landscape with interesting basins to the east of Pt 1809 metres, then climb up to Mt Chamberlin. With a little looking around from a saddle about 300 metres south of Mt Chamberlin, a gully and terrain nearby offers a steep but feasible route down to Park Stream. If staying on the range, continue past another Pt 1809 metres and continue over Mt Bannatyne towards Toaroha Saddle, being careful to go right around and not get caught by the beautiful canyon in upper Bannatyne Creek. Great campsites exist around Toaroha Saddle, or continue up to Toaroha Saddle Bivvy.", "ascent": null } ], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/nelson-lakes/st-arnaud-range/pt-1915": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/nelson-lakes/st-arnaud-range/pt-1915", "name": "Pt 1915", "altitude": null, "access": null, "description": null, "latlng": [ "-41.892087", "172.852149" ], "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/nelson-lakes/st-arnaud-range/pt-1915/rainbow-ronan-traverse", "name": "Rainbow-Ronan Traverse", "grade": "1,I", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": null, "pitches": [ { "alpine": "1", "commitment": "I", "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": "From the skifield head south-east up easy slopes to Mt McRae. Continue south to a saddle overlooking the Arnst basin and east towards Pt 1915m. Beyond here, the range is rugged and it is necessary to descend and sidle below bluffs, then regain the ridge in the vicinity of Pt 1880m. The range south of here is easy ridge travel, and can also be reached easily via a track up the true left of St Ronans Stream (no longer maintained but easily followed, through open forest into delightful tussock basins). Some superb campsites near tarns." } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": null, "natural_pro": false, "description": null, "ascent": null } ], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] }, "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/lewis-pass-harper-pass/main-divide/mt-stapp": { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/lewis-pass-harper-pass/main-divide/mt-stapp", "name": "Mt Stapp", "altitude": null, "access": null, "description": null, "latlng": null, "routes": [ { "link": "https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/lewis-pass-harper-pass/main-divide/mt-stapp/northwest-ridge", "name": "Northwest Ridge", "grade": "1", "topo_ref": null, "image": null, "images": [], "length": "0m", "pitches": [ { "alpine": "1", "commitment": null, "mtcook": null, "aid": null, "ice": null, "mixed": null, "length": null, "bolts": null, "trad": false, "ewbank": null, "description": null } ], "quality": 0, "bolts": "0", "natural_pro": false, "description": "Easily climbed along the ridge from Pt 1687.", "ascent": null } ], "places": [], "image": null, "images": [] } }