NYT20020731.0078_NN 2002-07-31_NN 13:47_NN A4346_NN &_CC Cx1_NN f_SYM ;_: ttd-z_JJ r_LS d_SYM BC-JULIACHILD-SFCHRON_NNP 07_CD -_- 31_CD 1501_CD BC-JULIACHILD-SF_NNP MUST_NNP CREDIT_NNP THE_DT SAN_NNP FRANCISCO_NNP CHRONICLE_NNP Grande_NNP dame_NN of_IN cooking_NN still_RB going_VBG strong_JJ at_IN 90_CD :_: Julia_NNP Child_NNP celebrates_VBZ in_IN San_NNP Francisco_NNP 
BY_NNP KAROLA_NNP SAEKEL_NNP c_SYM ._. 2002_CD The_DT San_NNP Francisco_NNP Chronicle_NNP SAN_NNP FRANCISCO_NNP -_- -_- How_WRB does_VBZ it_PRP feel_VB to_TO turn_VB 90_CD and_CC have_VBP attained_VBN the_DT status_NN of_IN an_DT icon_NN ,_, a_DT living_VBG legend_NN ?_. 

"_'' It_PRP feels_VBZ just_RB like_IN it_PRP felt_VBD before_RB ,_, "_'' Julia_NNP Child_NNP says_VBZ with_IN the_DT throaty_NN laugh_NN familiar_JJ to_TO millions_NNS who_WP cut_VBP their_PRP$ culinary_JJ teeth_NNS on_IN her_PRP$ "_'' French_NNP Chef_NNP "_'' television_NN series_NN ._. 
The_DT show_NN ,_, along_IN with_IN her_PRP$ seminal_NN book_NN ,_, "_'' Mastering_NNP the_DT Art_NNP of_IN French_NNP Cooking_NNP "_'' (_( 1961_CD )_) ,_, revolutionized_VBD the_DT way_NN America_NNP cooks_NNS and_CC eats_VBZ ._. 

While_IN making_VBG light_NN of_IN the_DT difference_NN a_DT day_NN -_- -_- or_CC another_DT decade_NN -_- -_- makes_VBZ ,_, Child_NNP intends_VBZ to_TO enjoy_VB her_PRP$ birthday_NN thoroughly_RB ._. 
First_LS ,_, there_EX will_MD be_VB all_PDT the_DT public_JJ observances_NNS ,_, including_VBG a_DT sold_VBD -_- out_IN dinner_NN Thursday_NNP at_IN San_NNP Francisco_NNP 's_POS tony_JJ Fifth_NNP Floor_NNP restaurant_NN ,_, which_WDT -_- -_- like_IN dinners_NNS that_WDT night_NN at_IN 19_CD other_JJ venues_NNS across_IN the_DT country_NN -_- -_- will_MD benefit_VB the_DT scholarship_NN fund_NN of_IN the_DT International_NNP Association_NNP of_IN Culinary_NNP Professionals_NNS (_( which_WDT Child_NNP co-founded_VBD )_) ._. 

Friday_NNP to_TO Sunday_NNP ,_, the_DT action_NN moves_NNS to_TO Napa_NNP ,_, with_IN both_DT members_NNS -_- only_RB and_CC public_JJ events_NNS at_IN COPIA_NNP :_: The_DT American_NNP Center_NNP for_IN Wine_NNP ,_, Food_NNP and_CC the_DT Arts_NNP ,_, of_IN which_WDT she_PRP is_VBZ an_DT honorary_JJ board_NN member_NN ._. 

Aug_NNP ._. 15_CD ,_, her_PRP$ actual_JJ birthday_NN ,_, will_MD see_VB her_PRP in_IN Maine_NNP at_IN an_DT annual_JJ gathering_NN of_IN nieces_NNS ,_, nephews_NNS ,_, their_PRP$ offspring_NN and_CC friends_NNS ,_, who_WP for_IN many_JJ years_NNS have_VBP rolled_VBN a_DT joined_VBN birthday_NN celebration_NN for_IN several_JJ members_NNS of_IN the_DT group_NN into_IN a_DT jolly_RB reunion_NN ._. 

The_DT schedule_NN Child_NNP and_CC her_PRP$ assistant_NN of_IN 14_CD years_NNS ,_, former_JJ pastry_NN chef_NN Stephanie_NNP Hersh_NNP ,_, have_VBP laid_VBN out_IN is_VBZ not_RB exactly_RB a_DT senior_JJ -_- citizen_NN routine_NN ,_, even_RB though_IN Child_NNP has_VBZ always_RB been_VBN candid_JJ about_IN her_PRP$ age_NN and_CC realistic_JJ in_IN assessing_VBG her_PRP$ own_JJ capabilities_NNS ._. 

When_WRB the_DT Pasadena_NNP native_NN moved_VBD back_RB to_TO California_NNP from_IN her_PRP$ long_JJ -_- time_NN home_NN in_IN the_DT Boston_NNP area_NN last_JJ year_NN ,_, she_PRP also_RB made_VBD the_DT move_NN from_IN a_DT condominium_NN she_PRP and_CC her_PRP$ late_JJ husband_NN ,_, Paul_NNP ,_, had_VBD purchased_VBN many_JJ years_NNS ago_RB to_TO a_DT progressive_JJ retirement_NN home_NN ._. 
She_PRP is_VBZ in_IN the_DT most_RBS active_JJ of_IN the_DT four_CD levels_NNS available_JJ ,_, but_CC should_MD the_DT need_NN arise_VB ,_, she_PRP can_MD move_VB on_IN to_TO assisted_VBN living_VBG facilities_NNS within_IN the_DT same_JJ complex_NN ._. 

"_'' Julia_NNP ,_, "_'' explains_VBZ Hersh_NNP ,_, "_'' made_VBD these_DT retirement_NN plans_VBZ many_JJ years_NNS ago_RB ._. 
She_PRP thinks_VBZ it_PRP 's_VBZ selfish_JJ for_IN people_NNS not_RB to_TO make_VB arrangements_NNS for_IN their_PRP$ old_JJ age_NN in_IN good_JJ time_NN ._. "_'' 

But_CC so_RB far_RB ,_, age_NN has_VBZ been_VBN kind_NN to_TO the_DT ebullient_JJ Child_NNP ._. 
In_IN a_DT phone_NN interview_NN a_DT couple_NN of_IN weeks_NNS ago_RB ,_, she_PRP reported_VBD with_IN glee_NN that_DT surgery_NN early_RB this_DT month_NN to_TO remove_VB a_DT small_JJ cyst_NN on_IN her_PRP$ spinal_JJ cord_NN had_VBD "_'' miraculously_RB "_'' cleared_VBD up_RB recent_JJ problems_NNS in_IN walking_VBG :_: "_'' Turned_VBN out_IN there_EX is_VBZ nothing_NN wrong_JJ with_IN my_PRP$ legs_NNS at_IN all_DT ._. "_'' 

So_IN she_PRP can_MD once_RB again_RB go_VB shopping_NN ,_, buying_VBG whatever_WDT seems_VBZ best_JJS on_IN any_DT given_VBN day_NN ._. 
Though_IN she_PRP had_VBD a_DT "_'' nice_JJ "_'' kitchen_NN installed_VBN in_IN her_PRP$ new_JJ home_NN ,_, Child_NNP said_VBD it_PRP 's_VBZ like_IN a_DT ship_NN 's_POS galley_NN -_- -_- a_DT far_JJ cry_NN from_IN the_DT huge_JJ ,_, three_JJ -_- pantry_NN kitchen_NN Paul_NNP Child_NNP designed_VBD for_IN their_PRP$ house_NN in_IN Cambridge_NNP ._. 
That_DT may_MD well_RB be_VB the_DT best-known_JJS kitchen_NN in_IN America_NNP ,_, since_IN it_PRP became_VBD the_DT site_NN of_IN the_DT "_'' French_NNP Chef_NNP "_'' television_NN programs_NNS ,_, which_WDT started_VBD airing_VBG in_IN 1962_CD ._. 

"_'' Back_RB there_RB ,_, we_PRP always_RB ate_VBD in_IN the_DT kitchen_NN ,_, "_'' Child_NNP reminisced_JJ ,_, "_'' I_PRP cannot_NN do_VBP that_DT here_RB ._. "_'' 
That_DT means_VBZ her_PRP$ entertaining_JJ has_VBZ been_VBN curtailed_VBN ,_, even_RB though_IN she_PRP still_RB has_VBZ an_DT active_JJ social_JJ life_NN with_IN the_DT many_JJ friends_NNS the_DT Childs_NNP made_VBD during_IN 22_CD winters_NNS spent_VBD in_IN Santa_NNP Barbara_NNP ._. 

She_PRP will_MD have_VB reunions_NNS of_IN sorts_NNS with_IN her_PRP$ famous_JJ kitchen_NN in_IN the_DT next_JJ few_JJ weeks_NNS ._. 
One_CD of_IN its_PRP$ Peg_NNP -_- Board_NN walls_NNS was_VBD dismantled_VBN and_CC reinstalled_VBN at_IN COPIA_NNP ;_: the_DT rest_NN went_VBD to_TO Washington_NNP ,_, D.C._NN ,_, and_CC the_DT Behring_NNP Center_NNP of_IN the_DT Smithsonian_NNP Institution_NNP 's_POS National_NNP Museum_NNP of_IN American_JJ History_NN ._. 
(_( all_DT CQ_NNP )_) Hersh_NNP recalls_VBZ the_DT museum_NN staff_NN 's_POS approach_NN to_TO preserving_VBG the_DT famous_JJ kitchen_NN as_IN awesome_JJ :_: They_PRP cataloged_JJ and_CC photographed_VBN everything_NN ,_, from_IN stove_NN to_TO windows_NNS ,_, blinds_NNS to_TO drawer_NN contents_NNS ._. 
As_IN reinstalled_VBN in_IN Washington_NNP ,_, the_DT kitchen_NN should_MD be_VB as_IN we_PRP all_DT remember_VBP it_PRP from_IN countless_JJ TV_NN shows_NNS ,_, "_'' right_RB down_IN to_TO the_DT toothpicks_NNS ._. "_'' 

Child_NNP will_MD go_VB to_TO the_DT capital_NN for_IN the_DT debut_NN of_IN the_DT exhibit_NN right_NN after_IN the_DT Maine_NNP birthday_NN bash_NN ._. 
To_TO see_VB her_PRP$ kitchen_NN -_- -_- and_CC by_IN extension_NN ,_, herself_PRP -_- -_- enshrined_JJ in_IN the_DT Smithsonian_NNP ,_, she_PRP said_VBD ,_, "_'' will_MD be_VB an_DT odd_JJ feeling_NN "_'' and_CC no_DT doubt_NN bring_VB back_RB memories_NNS ._. 

But_CC Child_NNP is_VBZ not_RB one_CD to_TO get_VB maudlin_NN about_IN the_DT past_NN ,_, though_IN she_PRP does_VBZ want_VB to_TO keep_VB it_PRP alive_JJ ._. 
She_PRP 's_VBZ already_RB got_VBD her_PRP$ next_JJ project_NN picked_VBD out_IN :_: A_DT memoir_NN of_IN her_PRP$ and_CC Paul_NNP 's_POS life_NN in_IN the_DT diplomatic_JJ service_NN with_IN his_PRP$ professional_JJ photographs_NNS and_CC some_DT of_IN her_PRP$ collected_VBN recipes_NNS ._. 

It_PRP will_MD undoubtedly_RB retell_NN how_WRB the_DT seeds_NNS of_IN her_PRP$ culinary_JJ career_NN were_VBD sown_NN :_: Fresh_NNP off_IN the_DT boat_NN on_IN their_PRP$ way_NN to_TO Paris_NNP and_CC Paul_NNP Child_NNP 's_POS new_JJ posting_VBG (_( they_PRP had_VBD met_VBN in_IN Sri_NNP Lanka_NNP during_IN World_NNP War_NNP II_NNP )_) ,_, they_PRP stopped_VBD for_IN lunch_NN in_IN Rouen_NNP ._. 
That_DT lunch_NN lit_VBD a_DT spark_NN that_WDT made_VBD Julia_NNP decide_VBP to_TO take_VB classes_NNS at_IN the_DT Cordon_NNP Bleu_NNP ,_, which_WDT in_IN turn_NN led_VBN to_TO her_PRP$ friendship_NN and_CC collaboration_NN with_IN Simone_NNP Beck_NNP and_CC Louisette_NNP Bertholle_NNP ,_, co-authors_JJ of_IN "_'' Mastering_NNP the_DT Art_NNP of_IN French_NNP Cooking_NNP ,_, "_'' and_CC ,_, ultimately_RB ,_, to_TO America_NNP 's_POS culinary_JJ revolution_NN ._. 

For_IN information_NN on_IN COPIA_NNP events_NNS open_JJ to_TO the_DT public_NN ,_, sign_NN on_IN to_TO www_NN ._. copia_NN ._. org_NN or_CC call_NN (_( 707_CD )_) 259_CD -_- 1600_CD ._. 

How_WRB to_TO feed_VB a_DT legend_NN 
So_RB what_WP do_VBP you_PRP prepare_VBP when_WRB asked_VBD to_TO cook_VB a_DT birthday_NN dinner_NN for_IN America_NNP 's_POS most_RBS famous_JJ culinary_JJ personality_NN ?_. 

Some_DT of_IN the_DT country_NN 's_POS top_JJ chefs_NNS will_MD answer_VB that_DT question_NN Thursday_NNP at_IN the_DT 20_CD dinners_NNS nationwide_JJ that_WDT will_MD celebrate_VB Julia_NNP Child_NNP 's_POS approaching_VBG 90th_CD birthday_NN ._. 
The_DT question_NN may_MD be_VB most_RBS acute_JJ for_IN three_CD San_NNP Francisco_NNP chefs_NNS preparing_VBG the_DT long_JJ sold_VBG -_- out_IN dinner_NN at_IN Fifth_NNP Floor_NNP restaurant_NN ,_, because_IN the_DT honoree_NN herself_PRP plans_VBZ to_TO be_VB there_RB ._. 

They_PRP are_VBP the_DT host_NN restaurant_NN 's_POS executive_NN chef_NN ,_, Laurent_NNP Gras_NNP ;_: his_PRP$ counterpart_NN at_IN Masa_NNP 's_POS ,_, Ron_NNP Siegel_NNP ,_, and_CC Masa_NNP pastry_NN chef_NN Keith_NNP Jeanminette_NNP ._. 

The_DT three_CD put_NN their_PRP$ heads_NNS together_RB ,_, thumbed_JJ through_IN "_'' Mastering_NNP the_DT Art_NNP of_IN French_NNP Cooking_NNP "_'' and_CC "_'' In_IN Julia_NNP 's_POS Kitchen_NN ,_, "_'' and_CC selected_VBN what_WP seemed_VBD like_IN the_DT honoree_NN 's_POS favorites_NNS ,_, though_IN with_IN a_DT few_JJ twists_NNS of_IN their_PRP$ own_JJ ._. 
"_'' It_PRP seems_VBZ she_PRP loves_VBZ soups_NNS ,_, "_'' said_VBD Siegel_NNP ,_, "_'' so_IN I_PRP am_VBP picking_VBG up_RP on_IN her_PRP$ vichyssoise_NN ._. 
But_CC since_IN it_PRP 's_VBZ the_DT middle_NN of_IN summer_NN ,_, I_PRP am_VBP adding_VBG fresh_JJ corn_NN to_TO it_PRP "_'' -_- -_- plus_CC a_DT dollop_NN of_IN caviar_NN for_IN good_JJ measure_NN ._. 

In_IN the_DT same_JJ vein_NN ,_, Gras_NNP is_VBZ tweaking_NN her_PRP$ salade_NN nicoise_NN ,_, and_CC Jeanminette_NNP is_VBZ adapting_VBG her_PRP$ mousse_NN au_NN chocolat_NN to_TO become_VB a_DT spectacular_JJ six_JJ -_- layer_NN pecan_NN marjolaine_NN ._. 
He_PRP could_MD hardly_RB go_VB wrong_JJ ._. 
When_WRB Child_NNP was_VBD asked_VBN some_DT years_NNS back_RB what_WP she_PRP would_MD order_VB for_IN her_PRP$ last_JJ meal_NN ,_, she_PRP ended_VBD the_DT list_NN with_IN "_'' something_NN chocolate_NN for_IN dessert_NN ._. "_'' 

Here_RB is_VBZ the_DT San_NNP Francisco_NNP chefs_NNS '_POS menu_NN :_: 

Corn_NN vichyssoise_NN with_IN caviar_NN 

Julia_NNP 's_POS composed_VBN near_JJ -_- nicoise_JJ salad_NN 

Atlantic_JJ halibut_NN with_IN flavored_JJ butters_NNS 

Sonoma_NNP duck_NN breast_NN a_DT la_FW Julia_NNP Child_NNP with_IN crispy_NN pancetta_NN and_CC sweet_JJ summer_NN onions_NNS and_CC naturally_RB enriched_JJ duck_NN sauce_NN 

Six_JJ -_- layer_NN pecan_NN marjolaine_NN with_IN Julia_NNP 's_POS coffee_NN chocolate_NN mousse_NN ,_, cocoa_NN meringue_NN ,_, pecan_NN crust_NN and_CC citrus_JJ sorbet_NN 

list_NN >_NN 

Words_NNPS of_IN wisdom_NN 
Julia_NNP Child_NNP does_VBZ n't_RB have_VB much_JJ use_NN for_IN fads_NNS and_CC trends_NNS -_- -_- never_RB has_VBZ ._. 
She_PRP never_RB subscribed_VBN to_TO cuisine_NN minceur_NN ,_, cholesterol_NN -_- free_JJ cooking_NN ,_, meat_NN -_- free_JJ meal_NN plans_NNS ,_, organic_JJ food_NN or_CC any_DT of_IN the_DT other_JJ politically_RB correct_JJ trends_NNS of_IN different_JJ times_NNS -_- -_- and_CC that_DT includes_VBZ restricted_VBN diets_NNS ,_, in_IN spades_NNS ._. 

However_RB ,_, an_DT active_JJ woman_NN all_DT her_PRP$ life_NN ,_, she_PRP is_VBZ aware_JJ of_IN the_DT need_NN to_TO keep_VB ones_NNS weight_NN and_CC fitness_NN in_IN mind_NN ._. 
Here_RB are_VBP her_PRP$ personal_JJ rules_NNS for_IN achieving_VBG these_DT goals_NNS :_: 

Take_VB small_JJ helpings_NNS 

No_DT seconds_NNS 

No_DT snacking_VBG 

Eat_NNP a_DT little_JJ bit_NN of_IN everything_NN 

Drink_NN modest_JJ amounts_NNS of_IN good_JJ wine_NN ._. 

Why_WRB we_PRP love_VBP Julia_NNP 
BY_NNP KIM_NNP SEVERSON_NNP c_SYM ._. 2002_CD The_DT San_NNP Francisco_NNP Chronicle_NNP It_PRP 's_VBZ easy_JJ to_TO imagine_VB what_WP Bay_NNP Area_NNP chefs_NNS like_IN Alice_NNP Waters_NNP or_CC Michael_NNP Mina_NNP might_MD have_VB to_TO say_VB about_IN Julia_NNP Child_NNP on_IN her_PRP$ 90th_CD birthday_NN ._. 
But_CC what_WP about_IN Bay_NNP Area_NNP notables_NNS who_WP like_IN to_TO cook_VB but_CC are_VBP not_RB connected_VBN to_TO a_DT professional_JJ kitchen_NN ?_. 

Susie_NNP Tompkins_NNP Buell_NNP ,_, socialite_NN and_CC political_JJ activist_NN who_WP co-founded_VBD the_DT Esprit_NNP de_IN Corps_NNP fashion_NN company_NN :_: "_'' When_WRB I_PRP think_VBP of_IN Julia_NNP Child_NNP I_PRP think_VBP of_IN the_DT television_NN episode_NN where_WRB she_PRP 's_VBZ showing_VBG you_PRP how_WRB to_TO make_VB a_DT turkey_NN dinner_NN and_CC the_DT turkey_NN fell_VBD on_IN the_DT floor_NN ._. 
It_PRP 's_VBZ live_VB and_CC she_PRP leans_VBZ over_RB and_CC picks_VBZ it_PRP up_RP and_CC says_VBZ ,_, `_`` What_WP the_DT guests_NNS do_VBP n't_RB see_VB wo_MD n't_RB hurt_VB them_PRP ._. '_POS 
You_PRP have_VBP to_TO be_VB playful_JJ and_CC confident_JJ about_IN cooking_NN ._. 
She_PRP cooks_NNS that_WDT way_NN ,_, and_CC I_PRP cook_NN that_DT way_NN ._. "_'' 

Denise_NNP Hale_NNP ,_, social_JJ icon_NN and_CC Liza_NNP Minnelli_NNP 's_POS stepmother_NN :_: "_'' Julia_NNP Child_NNP gave_VBD to_TO all_DT women_NNS one_CD beautiful_JJ present_NN :_: Watching_VBG her_PRP$ series_NN you_PRP found_VBD out_IN you_PRP do_VBP n't_RB have_VB to_TO be_VB perfect_JJ ._. "_'' 

Francis_NNP Ford_NNP Coppola_NNP ,_, film_NN director_NN :_: "_'' I_PRP think_VBP she_PRP 's_VBZ a_DT fascinating_JJ woman_NN ,_, and_CC I_PRP enjoy_VBP very_RB much_RB watching_NN her_PRP$ shows_NNS with_IN Jacques_NNP Pepin_NNP ._. "_'' 

Harry_NNP Denton_NNP ,_, San_NNP Francisco_NNP nightclub_NN owner_NN :_: "_'' My_PRP$ favorite_JJ thing_NN about_IN her_PRP$ is_VBZ her_PRP$ straightforward_JJ honesty_NN and_CC that_IN her_PRP$ favorite_JJ food_NN is_VBZ butter_NN ._. 
I_PRP love_VBP butter_NN ,_, too_RB ._. "_'' 

Michael_NNP Chabon_NNP ,_, author_NN of_IN Pulitzer_NNP Prize_NNP winner_NN "_'' The_DT Amazing_NNP Adventures_NNP of_IN Kavalier_NNP &_CC Clay_NNP "_'' :_: "_'' All_DT I_PRP think_VBP of_IN when_WRB I_PRP think_VBP of_IN her_PRP$ now_RB is_VBZ Dan_NNP Akroyd_NNP pretending_VBG to_TO be_VB her_PRP$ (_( on_IN Saturday_NNP Night_NNP Live_NNP )_) and_CC chopping_VBG his_PRP$ fingers_NNS off_RP and_CC bleeding_VBG all_DT over_IN ._. "_'' 

NYT-07_NN -_- 31_CD -_- 02_CD 1347_CD EDT_NNP 