The City and ITS People Istanbul is one of the worlds most venerable cities. Part of the citys allure is its setting, where Europe faces Asia acr­oss the winding turquoise waters of the Bosphorus, making it the only city in the world to bridge two continents. Here, where the waters of the Black Sea blend into the Aegean, East and West mingle and merge in the cultural melting-pot of Turkeys largest metropolis. Busy Oriental bazaars co-­exist with European shops; kebab-shops and coffee-houses sit alongside international restaurants; modern office buildings and hotels alternate with Ottoman min­arets along the citys skyline; traditional music and Western pop, belly-dancing and ballet, Turkish wrestling and football all compete for the attention of the Istanbullu audience. This is the only city in the world to have been the capital of both an Islamic and a Christian empire. As Constantinople, jewel of the Byzantine Empire, it was for more than 1,000 years the most important city in Christendom. As Istanbul it was the seat of the Ottoman sultans, rulers of a 500-year Islamic empire that stretched from the Black Sea and the Balkans to Arabia and Algeria. Istanbul owes its long-held historical significance to a stra­tegic location at the mouth of the Bosphorus. From this vantage point the city could control not only the ships that passed through the strait on the important trade route between the Black Sea and the Mediterranean, but also the overland traffic travelling from Europe in­­to Asia Minor, which used the narrow strait as a crossing point. In the words of the 16th-century French traveller Pierre Gilles: The Bosphorus with one key opens and closes two worlds, two seas. That strategic advantage is no less important today than it was 2,500 years ago, when a band of Greeks first founded the city of Byzantium on this very spot. Ankara may be the official capital of modern Tur­key, but Istanbul remains the countrys largest city, most important commercial centre, and busiest port, producing more than one-third of Turkeys man­u­­­facturing out­­put. The Bosphorus is one of the worlds most active shipping lanes, and the overland traffic is now carried by two of the worlds longest suspension bridges. The thriving city has long since spread beyond the fifth-century Byzantine walls built by the Emperor Theodosius II, and now sprawls for miles along the shores of the Sea of Marmara on both the European and Asian sides. Back in 1507 this was the worlds largest city, with a population of 1.2 million. That figure has now passed 10 million and is still growing, swollen by a steady influx of people from rural areas looking for work (more than half the population was born in the provinces). These new arrivals have created a series of shanty-towns around the perimeter of the city. Their makeshift homes, known in Turkish as gecekondu (built by night), take advantage of an old Ottoman law that protects a house whose roof has been built during the hours of darkness. The slums are eventually knock-ed down to make way for new tower-blocks — a new suburb is created, yet another shanty-town springs up beyond it, and Istanbul spreads out a little farther. At the other end of the social spectrum are the wealthy Istanbullus, who live in the upmarket districts of Taksim, Harbiye, and Ni«anta«ı, where the streets are lined with fashion boutiques, expensive apartments, and stylish cafés. Those belonging to this set are the lucky few who frequent the citys more expensive restaurants and casinos, and retire at the weekends to their restored wooden mansions (yalı) along the Bosphorus. But most of Istanbuls inhabitants fall between these two extremes, living in modest flats and earning an average wage in the offices, shops, banks, and factories that provide most of the citys employment. Although small Armenian, Greek Orthodox, Jewish, and Catholic communities survive, the majority of Istanbullus are Muslim, and adhere to the principles known as the Five Pillars of Islam —  to believe with all ones heart that There is no God but God, and Mohammed is his Prophet; to pray five times a day, at dawn, midday, afternoon, sunset, and after dark; to give alms to the poor, and towards the upkeep of the mosques; to fast between sunrise and sunset during the month of Ramadan; and to try to make the pilgrimage to Mecca at least once in ones lifetime. Those who have made the pilgrimage can add the respected title haci before their names, an honour proudly displayed on shop-owners signs. Just as the Bosphorus separates Asia from Europe, so the inlet called the Golden Horn separates the old Istanbul from the new. The main attractions for the visitor are concentrated in the historic heart of old Istanbul. Three great civilizations have shaped this part of the city — Roman, Byzantine, and Ottoman. Though little remains from Roman times, the citys Byzantine legacy boasts Haghia Sophia, the Church of the Divine Wisdom and one of the worlds greatest buildings; the magnificent mosaics of St. Saviour in Chora; and the impressive Theodosian Walls. The Ottomans built countless mosques in their capital, the finest of which is the Süleymaniye, inspired by the form of the Haghia Sophia. But the most popular tourist sight is Topkapı Palace, the home of the Ottoman sultans, where the riches of the Imperial Treasury and the intrigue of the Harem draw many thousands of visitors each year. From the belvedere in the treasury of the palace, where the Sultan used to gaze down upon his fleet, you can look across the mouth of the Golden Horn to the modern district of Beyolu, where multi-storey hotels rise beyond the turret of the Galata Tower. Down by the shore of the Bosphorus is the glittering fa­çade of the 19th-century Dolmabahçe Palace, while beyond stretches the graceful span of the Bosphorus Bridge, a concrete symbol of the city, linking Europe with Asia. Byzantium, Constantinople, Istanbul — down the centuries the city has been open to influences from both East and West, and this cross-fertilization of ideas has created one of the worlds liveliest, most engaging, and most hospitable cultures. It is neither European nor Oriental, but an unparalleled and intoxicating blend; it is, quite simply, unique.