BEing to take my iourney to Prage, in the end of the yeere 1591, (after the English account, who begin the yeere vpon the twenty fiue of March,) I returned againe to Dresden; from whence I wrote this Letter concerning my iourney, to a friend lying at Leipzig.

Honest M. Know that after I parted from you at Torg, by good hap, and beside my expectation, I light vpon a Coach going to Dresden, with which good hap, while I was affected, and hasted to hire a place therein, I had forgot to pay for my Coach for the day before. But when we were ready to go, remembring my errour, and intreating my consorts to stay a while for mee, I ranne backe to the Inne, as speedily as the Parasite Curculio in Plautus; and finding not the Coachman there, I gaue the money to the seruant of the house before witnesses, and so returned to the Coach all sweating with hast. There I found that dunghill rascall the Coachman, hauing my gowne on his backe. I laid hold of the garment, as if I knew it, and hee held it as fast, as a pledge for his money. I being inraged that hee should vse me so, when I had dealt honestly with him, drew my sword, and making knowne that I had paid the money, bad him lay downe the gowne vpon his perill. I had almost drawne a rabble of Coachmen on my back, but they forbore me in this heat, for you know they are not apt to quarrell in the morning; but if I had thus prouoked them in the afternoone, being warmed with drinke, sure they would haue run vpon me, though they had been naked. Will you know the companions of my iourney? I was alone among a Coach full of women, and those of the Electors Dutchesse Chamber for sooth, which you would haue said to haue been of the blacke guard. It was a Comedy for me to heare their discourse; now declaiming against Caluenists, now brawling together, now mutually with teares bewailing their hard fortunes: and they fel into al these changes, while the winde blew from one and the same quarter. Is anything lighter then a woman? and lest the flocke of geese should want matter, sometimes they charged me to be a Caluenist, sometimes a Iew; & I answered merrily, that if any of them were but a Consuls wife, I would satisfie them for my religion. At eight a clocke in the night, the horses being spent, my selfe wearied, and only their tongues vntired, wee came to a Village called Derwaldhan, where wee should lodge. We entered a kind of Barne, my selfe not without sighs. Lipsius should here haue had no cause to complaine of stinking beere, browne bread, and often shaking hands. No man returned salutation to vs: the women my companions, drew out victuals they had brought to eat, I being fasting to that houre, with great feare and trembling of heart, expected that at least they would giue me some raw bacon, or dried puddings. But they thought nothing lesse. At last I desired an egge or two for my supper. The seruant answered that the old woman was in bed, and that he knew not the mystery, whether any eggs were in the house or no. If the Comicall Poets Saturio had been here he would haue fallen into a sound. To be brief, the women took compassion on me, and I without blushing was content to eat of free cost, and made them know that I was no Iew, for I made no religion to eat what was before mee.

The next morning before the day-starre arose, I was walking in a meadow, what doe you blesse your selfe with a crosse? Sure I am no lesse sleepy then I was, but he is soone apparelled that hath a dogs bed in straw: yet this straw was cleane, which is no small fauour, and when I gaue the seruant a Misen groshe for his paines, he was astonished, as if he had neuer seene a whole groshe before, so as he forgot to thanke me, onely shewing it to the standers by, as if I had deserued another burthen of fresh straw. The Women, Virgins, Men and Maids, seruants, all of vs lay in one roome, and my selfe was lodged furthest from the stoue, which they did not for any fauour, though contrary to their opinion I was glad of it, delighting more in sweet aire, then the smoke of a dunghill. My companions laughed at me for babling dutch in my sleep: surely reason cōmanding me waking, had not power ouer me in sleep, to hinder me from reuoluing the pleasant passages of the day past. On Saterday the same day I came to Dresden, frō whence fiue passengers were newly gon for Prage in a Coach, but after three daies expectation I haue found new consorts, & to morrow being Wednesday, and the eight of March, I begin my iourney to Bohemia. While I dispaired of consorts, I was determined to goe in a boat'vpon the Elue, and had now bought cleane straw, in which I meant to triumph alone, when by good hap, turning from the riuer to the Inne, I light vpon this commodity of a Coach, which hath freed me from the annoyance of the water and Marriners. Imbrace in my name our common friend G. B. and of my louing hosts family, let not a whelpe goe vnsaluted. Farewell honest M. and returne me loue for loue: from Dresden the seuenth of March, 1591.

My selfe and foure consorts hired a Coach for 14. dollers from Dresden to Prage. The first day we went three miles to Gottleben a Village, where we paid fiue Bohemian groshe, that is sixe white groshe each man for his dinner. Halfe the way was on the West side of the Riuer Elue, in a fertile plaine, then we passed the Elue, and trauelled through mountaines, yet fertile, and a baggy wood. After dinner we went two miles, to a Village, where we lodged, through stony mountaines without any wood, and in the mid way there was a woodden pillar, which diuided the territory of the Saxon Elector from the kingdome of Bohemis.

The second day we went two miles throgh stony Mountains, bearing not one tree, to Ansig a little City, where we paid for our breakefast foure Bohemian groshes. The same day we passed three miles in a straight between rocks, lying vpon the Elue, & two short miles throgh fruitful corn fields, to Wedin lying vpō the riuer Aegra, which runs a little below into the Elue, but was here at this time so deep, by a floud or melting of snow, as our Coach in comming to the bridge of Wedin by the bank side, tooke water. The third day we passed a miles to a village called Welber or Welberg, through fruitfull hils of corn without any wood, & there each man paid 5 Bohemian grosh for his dinner.

In the afternoone wee went three miles, for the most part through fruitfull hils of come, the rest through Rockes and Mountaines planted with Vines, and so came to Prage, through which the Riuer Molda runneth, but is not nauigable. On the West side of Molda is the Emperours Castle, seated on a most high Mountaine, in the fall Prage. whereof is the Suburbe called Kleinseit, or little side. From this Suburbe to goe into the City, a long stone bridge is to be passed ouer Molda, which runnes from the South to the North, and diuides the suburbe from the City, to which as you goe, on the left side is a little City of the Iewes, compassed with wals, and before your eies towards the East, is the City called new Prage, both which Cities are compassed about with a third, called old Prage. So as Prage consists of three Cities, all compassed with wals, yet is nothing lesse then strong, and except the stinch of the streetes driue backe the Turkes, or they meet them in open field, there is small hope in the fortifications thereof. The streets are filthy, there be diuers large market places, the building of some houses is of free stone, but the most part are of timber and clay, and are built with little beauty or Art, the walles being all of whole trees as they come out of the wood, the which with the barke are laid so rudely, as they may on both sides be seen. Molda in the winter vseth to be so frozen, as it beareth carts, and the ice thereof being cut in great peeces, is laid vp in cellers for the Emperour and Princes to mingle with their wine in summer, which me thinkes can neither be sauory, nor healthfull, since neither the heat of the clime, nor the strength of the Bohemian wines (being small and sharpe) require any such cooling. One thing they boast to be proper to that kingdome, that the Elue, Aegra, Molda, and all other Riuers watering Bohemia, haue their spring heads in the same.

In publike Innes they demand some six Bohemian grosh for a meale, yet doe they not commonly giue meales at an ordinary rate, as they doe through all Germany; but what meate you require, that they dresse, and the seruant buying all things out of doores (after the manner of Poland) maketh a reckoning of the expences. My selfe had my diet with a Citizen very conueniently for a doller and a halfe weekely. I did here eat English Oysters pickeld, and a young Bohemian comming in by chance, and tasting them, but not knowing the price, desired the Merchant to giue him a dish at his charge, which contained some twenty Oysters, and finding them very sauoury, hee called for fiue dishes one after another, for which the Merchant demanded and had of him fiue dollers, the dearnesse no lesse displeasing his minde, then the meate had pleased his taste.

As you passe ouer Molda from the Suburbe Kleinseit, into the City; there is a hand of stone as it were cut off, vpon the gate of the City; signifying to strangers, that whosoeuer drawes a sword there, or vpon the bridge; looseth his hand; and the like hand there is to the same purpose, on the Senate house in the towne. The Emperour hath two inclosures walled about, which they call Gardaines, one of which is called Stella, because the trees are planted in the figure of starres, and a little faire house therein is likewise built, with six corners in forme of a starre. And in this place he kept 12-Cammels, an Indian Oxe, yellow, all ouer rugged, and hairy vpon the throate, like a Lyon; and an Indian Calfe, and two Leopards, which were said to be tame, if such wild beasts may be tamed. They were of a yellow colour spotted with blacke, the head partly like a Lyon, partly like a Cat, the tayle like a Cat, the body like a Greyhound, and when the hunts-man went abroad, at call they leaped vp behind him, sitting vpon the horse like a dog on the hinder parts, being so swift in running, as they would easily kill a Hart. I remember that a gentleman of Hungary walking in the streetes with me, and obseruing a picture on a wall of a German protecting an Hungarian from a Turke, with this inscription: Not for thy sake, but my owne: tooke this occasion to complaine much of the Emperour, and relate many things wherein his prodigality and other errours had ouerthrowne Hungary, and had done nothing lesse then ease their afflicted fortunes. In the Church Emaus, this inscription is grauen;

¶ The tenour of King Alexander the Great, his &c.

Wee Alexander the Great of King Phillip the founder of the Grecian Empire, Conquerour of the Persians, Meades, &c And of the whole World, from the East to West, from North to South, sonne of great Iupiter, by &c. so called. To you the noble stocke of the Sclauonians, and to your language, because you haue beene to me helpers, true in faith, and valiant in warre, I confirme all this tract from the North to the South parts of Italy, from me and my successours to you and your posterity. If any other Nation be found there, let them be your slaues. Dated in our City of Alexandria, newly founded by vs vpon the great Riuer of Nilus: the twelfth of the Goddesse Minerua: witnesses are Aethra, and the II. Princes, whom we appoint successours to vs dying without heire.

Also there were these verses, shewing by numerall letters the antiquity of Prage Vniuersity, from the yeere 867. though the Colledges there about ruined, scarce shew any shadow of this Vniuersity.

In the Church of the Emperours Castle, these things are to be seene. A faire Chappell named after the Emperours sister, married to the French King, and crowned Queene of the French Another Chappell belonging to the Barons, called Popelij (the greatest family of the Kingdome, next to the Baron of Rosenberg) which Chappell is proper to them for buriall, and is dedicated to St Andrew the Apostle. In the Emperours Church is a Monument of Rodolphus the second, then liuing Emperour, built of white marble, and compassed with grates of iron. In the same place lie buried Charles the fourth in the yeere 1378. Wenceslaus in the yeere 1419. Ladislaus in the yeere 1459. Ferdinand the fourth, in the yeere 1564. Maximillian the second, in the yeere 1577. (all being Arch-dukes of Austria, and Emperours) and George Pogiebrachius a Bohemian, and King of Bohemia. To all these is one Monument erected, and that of small beauty: In the same Church is the Monument of a Bishop, who being the Queenes Confessour, was cast into Molda because he would not reueale her confession to her husband Wenceslaus. They doe so reuerence the Monument of this Bishop (since made a Saint by the Pope) as they thinke he shall die with shame, that passeth by it without reuerence. In Old Prage towards the South, and vpon the East side of Molda, there is an old Pallace, where they shew a trap-doore, by which the Queene was wont to slide downe into a Bath, where shee vsed to satisfie her vnlawfull lust. In the same place is grauen the leape of a horse, no lesse wonderfull then Byards fabulous leape. The House of Kelley a famous English Alcumist, was of old a Sanctuary, and built for an order of Friers, vpon the gate whereof these verses are written,

In the Senate house the City Armes are painted, being a Castle with three Towers ore, and two Lions argent Langed gules, are the supporters, and these Verses are written vpon the Armes;

Not farre from Prage they say, that the Crowne of the Kingdome is laid vp, in Karlsteine Castle. At Prage in Bethlem Church, they shew a Pulpit in which Iohn Hus vsed to preach at the first reformation of Religion. I liued at Prage some two moneths, and being to depart from thence, I would haue gone to Vienna (the famous Fort against the Turkes) but my desire to see Nurnberg and Augspurg so preuailed, as I left that iourney, which by chance happened better then I imagined, for being called backe into the Low Countries (as heereafter I shall relate), I passed thence through Poland into Italy, because France was shut vp by the ciuill warres, and I euer shunned to goe twice one way, and so had the opportunitie (more fit then the former) to see Vienna. Now for their sakes who may passe from Prage to Vienna, giue mee leaue to remember, that in this way their is a Village called Chassel, some nine miles from Prage, where the famous Captaine of the Bohemians, called Ziska, lies buried, who did lead the Hussites valiantly, and being ready to die, wished them to make a Drumme of his skinne, ominating that the sound thereof would bee so terrible to the enemies, as they would runne away, (such confidence had be in Armes, as being dead he thought to terrifie his enemies.)

In the beginning of the yeere, 1592. I tooke my iourney from Prage to Nurnberg, 1592. being sixe daies iourney. The first day after dinner, we went foure miles, partly through rocky Mountaines, partly through a fruitfull corne plaine, and lodged at Berawn, where a loafe of bread, worth two third parts of a Creitzer, was as big as a threepenny loafe in England; by reason of the abundance of corne in that Country. And heere each man paid for his supper fourteene Creitzers. This Citie belongs to the family of the Poples. The second day wee went foure miles to Zudermont, all through Mountaines and Groues, and two great Woods, yet reasonably fruitfull in Corne, and by the way we saw the City Bodly, and the City Spil, the fairest of that Kingdome next to Prage, both belonging to the Emperour, and two Castles; belonging to the Barons Popeles: and heere each man dined for sixteene Creitzers. After dinner we went two miles to Pilsen, halfe the way through Woods, where is a little City Ruchtsan, and halfe through Hils and Plaines fruitfull in Corne, (almost the whole Countrey of Bohemta being hilly, and rich ground for Pasture and Corne) and here we supped each man for twenty three Creitzers. The third day wee went three miles to Kladen, through pleasant Hils of Groues, pasture and corne, where each man dined for eighteene Creitzers. After dinner we went three miles to Frawenberg, through high Mountaines and great Woods, hauing no great store of corne; in all which territory, the Cities and Villages acknowledge the Emperour for their supreme Lord, as he is King of Bohemia. For this Kingdome is not diuided (as others be) into Prouinces and Countries, but into Noble-mens Territories. Here we paied each man eight Creitzers for our supper, and twelue for wine.

The fourth day wee went a mile and a halfe to a little riuer, diuiding Bohemia, or Boemerland from Germany, through rocky Mountaines, and many Woods of tall Fir trees, fit to make Masts for Ships. Then wee entred a Countrey belonging to that Elector Palatine of the Rheine, which Elector is called vulgarly the Phaltz-graue, and we came within halfe a mile to Weithawsan, where each man dined for eighteene Creitzers. After dinner we went two miles in the Phaltzgraues Countrey, through woody Mountaines, and one mile in the Landgraue of Leytenberg his Countrey, through fruitfull corne fields, and lodged at Shenhutton, where each man paied six Creitzers for his supper, and thirteene for wine. For in these parts they drinke no beere (as before) but wine, and that at a lower price) then other where, whether it bee natiue or forraine: yet no man must wonder that wee spent more in wine then meat, all my consorts being Dutch-men. The fifth day wee went in the Phaltzgraues Countrey, foure miles to Amberg: through fruitfull Hils of corne, and some few Woods, and this City belongs to the Phaltzgraue) being seated in the vpper Palatinate. After dinner we went in the Marquesse of Anspach his Country, (who is also called the Burggaue of Nurnberg) two miles to Hous-coate, a Village, where each man paid six Batzen for his supper. The sixt day we went three miles, passing by Erspruck, a Citie subject to the Nurnbergers, and many villages belonging to diuets Lords, and a fort in the mid way called Schwang, belonging to seuenty two Lords, and being then by course in the Phaltzgraues keeping; for all these Lords keepe the same by course for three yeeres. The first and greater part of the way, was through fruitfull Hils of corne, the rest through sandy pastures, and a Wood of a miles length. Wee dined at a poore Village, each man for six Batzen. After dinner we went two miles to Nurnberg, through sandy corne fields, and passed by many houses and gardens of the Citizens, whether they vse to come out of the City, sometimes to recreate themselues. The Wood which we passed in the morning, lay on our left hand towards the South; as wee entred the Citie on the east side, and not farre from the City, turneth itselfe and runneth farther towards the South.

The City of Nurnberg, seated in a barren sandy ground, yet is very rich by the Nurnberg. Citizens industry. For as commonly few be rich in a fertile Countrey, (either because hauing enough for food, they are giuen to idlenesse, or because abundance makes them prodigall,) so the Nurnbergers planted in a barren soyle, by their subtile inuentions of Manuall workes, and cunning Art, draw the riches of all Countries to them. The Riuer Bengetts runnes by the Citie, but is not Nauigable, nor beareth any the least boats. This Riuer runnes from the East (where wee entred the Towne) towards the gate Lauff-thore, and so compasseth the suburbs towards the South, where diuiding into two beds, it entreth the City, and comming out againe at the West, washeth the Citie walles. On the East side, the Margraues of Brandeburg, besieged the City, at the command of Charles the fifth; therefore on this, and the South side, besides a dry ditch, and two stone walles compassing the whole City, diuers Bulwarkes are built vpon the wall. On all sides as you come vp to the City, the earth riseth, and almost at euery gate there is a long suburbe. Vpon the walles there be many Towers, distant one from the other some 1000 ordinary walking paces, and the vvhole circuit of the City is lesse then a German mile. Among the said Towers, three are stronger then the rest, and furnished with Artillery. The first is on the East side neere the gate Lauff-thore. The second is on the South side, vnder the gate Fraw-thore, (and on the same side is the gate Spittle-thore.) The third is on the North side vnder the gate New-thore, (and on the same side is another gate called Burk-thore.) There is a Castle called Burk, which by Nero the Emperour, was of his name called Noricum Castrum. It is certaine, that this Castle stood in the time of Charles the Great; and the City being of it selfe not ancient, is thought to haue had his name of this Castles old Latine name. On the VVest side is the gate Haller-thore, so called of him that caused it to be built; where is a pleasant walke, thicke shadowed with trees, where the Citizens vse to walke for pleasure.

The City is absolute of it selfe, being one of the free Cities of the Empire, and mee thinks the chief, or at least second to Augsburg: surely it may perhaps yield to Augsburg in treasure and riches of the City, but it must be preferred for the building, whichis all of free stone sixe or seuen roofes high: I speake of the whole City of Augsburg, for one street thereof is most beautifull, and some Pallaces there are fit for Princes, of which kind Nurnberg hath none. The Tower which I said was of old called Noricum Castrum, hangs ouer the City, which being seated in a plaine, hath no mounts neere it, and is of a round forme. The said Tower is compassed with a drie ditch very deepe, vpon the wall whereof they shaw a Spaniards blood there sprinkled, who vndertooke to betray the Castle to Charles the fifth: as also the print of a Horses feete in memory of a wonderfull leape from the Castle side to the other side of the bridge. The Senate House lies vnder the side of this Castle or Tower, as it were vnder the shield of Aiax; and vnder the same house and vnder the earth be the publike prisons. The Armory is built on the South side of the Towne, and is opened to no man without consent of the Senate, (which in all other Cities of Germany is readily shewed to strangers.) And in that Armory by the Citizens report they haue 400. great peeces of Artillery, with great store of all Munitions. The City hath also a Granary, which is so large, as diuers yeeres prouision for corne may be laid vp therein. It hath teri Churches, whereof onely foure are vsed for prayers and preaching; and in one of them lies buried Zebalemus-King of Denmarke, who first conuerted the City to Christian Religion. Neere the Church of Saint Laurence is the golden fountaine, so called of the beauty and magnificence, and it distils water out of twenty leaden pipes. Neere the Church called Frawenkirk, is another faire Fountaine guilded ouer, and compassed with an iron grate. It is vnlawful to walke in the night without a torch, or a candle and lanthorne. In the Innes they giue no beere at the table, but diuers kinds of wine, and a large diet, if not delicate: for which euery man paieth sixe batzen a meale, and besides for his chamber or lodging (which he may haue priuate to himselfe) three creitzers by the day. In the Almes-houses, out of gifts by the last testament of those that die, they maintaine great numbers of poore people, and in one of them twelue old men apart, and in another twelue old men, and as many old weomen.

Whilst I liued at Prage, and one night had set vp very late drinking at a feast, early in the morning the Sunne beames glancing on my face, as I lay in bed, I dreamed that a shadow passing by, told me that my father was dead, at which awaking all in a sweat, and affected with this dreame, I rose and wrote the day and houre, and all circumstances thereof in a paper booke, which Booke with many other things I put into a barrel, and sent it from Prage to Stode, thence to be conuaied into England. And now being at Nurnberg, a Merchant of a noble family, well acquainted with me and my friends, arriued there, who told me that my Father died some two moneths past, I list not write any lies, but that which I write is as true as strange. When I returned into England some foure yeeres after, I would not open the barrell I sent from Prage, nor looke on the paper Booke in which I had written this dreame, till I had called my sisters and some friends to be witnesses, where my selfe and they were astonished to see my written dreame answere the very day of my Fathers death.

I may lawfully sweare, that which my kinsmen haue heard witnessed by my brother Henry whilst he liued, that in my youth at Cambridge I had the like dreame of my Mothers death, where my brother Henry lying with me, early in the morning I dreamed that my mother passed by with a sad countenance, and told me that shee could not come to my commencement; I being within fiue moneths to proceed Master of Arts, and shee hauing promised at that time to come to Cambridge: And when I related this dreame to my brother, both of vs awaking together in a sweat, he protested to me that he had dreamed the very same, and when wee had not the least knowledge of our Mothers sickenesse, neither in our youthfull affections were any whit affected with the strangenesse of this dreame, yet the next Carrier brought vs word of our mothers death.

Being (as I haue said) certified of my Fathers death at Nurnberg, and thinking not fit to goe on my iourney into Italy, and yet being loath to returne into England, before I had finished my purposed voyage, I tooke the middle counsell, to returne into the Low Countries, that in those neere places I might dispose of my small patrimony (for in England gentlemen giue their younger sonnes lesse, then in forraine parts they giue to their bastards) and so might leaue the same in the hands of some trusty friend. Yet lest I should loose the opportunity of seeing Augsburg, meaning to returne some other way into Italy, I resolued to goe from hence to Augsburg, and then to crosse ouer the West parts of Germany; and so to passe along the Riuer Rhein into the Low Countries.

To Augsburg (being two dayes iourney and a halfe) I hired of the City Carrier (in whose company I went) an Horse for two Dollors, as I remember. The Merchants of Nurnberg and Augsburg; giue pensions to eight of these Carriers, daily passing betweene those Cities, besides the profit they make of letters, and other things they carry by horse. The first day after breake-fast, we rode one mile in a thicke wood, and another mile through sandy corne fields, somewhat wooddy, both in the territory of the Nurnbergers, and foure miles more in the territory of the Margraue of Anspach, to Blinfield, where each man paid for his supper and horse meat sixe batzen. The second day we rode foure miles to Monheime through a wood of Iuniper, full of blacke berries and barberies, at the end whereof was a free City called Wassenberge, and after through fruitfull hils and valleies of corne, all the territory, excepting the free City, belonging to the Marshall of the Emperour (not of the Empire): when we came almost to our iourneies end, the Carrier had a guide giuen him, according to custome, for theeues vsing to lie by that way. Monheime belongs to the Phaltz-graue of Newburg, being of the family of the Phaltz-graues of Rhein, and there we paid each man for his dinner and horse-meat thirty foure creitzers, which make eight batzen and a halfe, and there we tasted Iuniper wine, which I neuer remember to haue tasted else where. After dinner we rode two miles and a halfe through fruitfull hils of corne, and a small wood of Okes (though all the woods of vpper Germany be commonly of firre, bearing greene leaues all winter, as those of inferiour Germany towards Denmarke, be all of Okes.) By the way we passed a Monastery granted to the Phaltzgraue of Rhein by the Emperour, and a free City of the Empire, called Donaward, of the two Riuers Danow & Werd, meeting there, and there we passed by bridge the Danow, running by the City. Then wee rode to Weschendorff two miles and a halfe more, through fruitfull fields of corne & pastures, the Country belonging to the Fugares (Citizens of Augsburg) & to diuers other Lords. The Castle of this place belongs to the said Fugares, who are rich & famous for their treasure; & though they haue princely reuenues, & the title of barons, yet stil are merchants: here each man paid for his supper & hors-meat 8. batzen & a half.

The third day in the morning we rode three miles to Augsburg, through a fruitfull Augsburg. plaine of corne; without the wals whereof on the East and North, and some part of the South sides, the fields are drowned with waters, and men passe to the Citie by causies, for on these sides the ground lieth low: but on the West side is all the beauty of the City, where the houses are seated vpon a hill, and ther is a place for the Merchants to meet, called the Berle, and likewise the Senate house in the street Weingasse, so called of the Wine cellars. There also be many Pallaces stately built, of the Fugares and other Citizens: all the building is of free stone sixe or seuen roofes high; but in other parts it is more poorely built of timber and clay. On this West part of the City is the Gate called Kuknerthore, and the ditches are dry, as they be round about the City; the wals are of stone, which being on all other sides narrow, are on this side broad: for vpon the wals of this side there be little houses built for fiue hundred Garrison Souldiers to dwell in, with their wiues and families: which place is vulgarly called Die schwang. Here the Souldiers keep watch each three daies by turne, & each of them haue for pay six guldens by the moneth, and there is a market place, whether the Souldiers vpon any difference vse to challenge each other. On this West side is another gate vulgarly called Der Einlasse, by which passengers are receiued into the City by night, when the gates are shut; and this their entrance is so curiously admitted, as many strangers desirous to see the fashion, suffer themselues of purpose to be locked out at night, and willingly giue a reward to the souldiers letting them in: when they receiue in those that are shut out, diuers gates are opened; and no man being seene to open them, are presently shut on the back of them that come in: then they being thus shut as it were in a prison, a box is put downe to them in which they cast a reward; which done, the Watch-men out of win dowes behold each man that is to enter, and so being safe from all treason, let them passe by the last gate into the City. On the South side there be two gates, Roatthore and Smitbogenthore; on the East side the gate Iacoberthore, and a little gate called Holeblatten-thorelin. On the East side the Riuer Werda & the Brooke Lecca running towards the North in three armes, diuide the City, and the Suburbs on that side are more strongly fortified then other where. The City ioyned with the Suburbs is of a round forme; and in the Suburbs on this side, the Fugares haue built many houses to be let for a gulden yeerely to the poore that are Papists. On the North side the wals are higher built, and the ditches are deepe filled with water, and there be foure other gates: this side of the City lying lowest, the fields without are (as I said) all drowned with water. Here each man paid for each meale six or seuen Batzen: I paid for two meales and my horse meat twenty three Batzen. This City hath a very faire conduit called the Stately Workmanship, vulgarly Statlich Kunst, and the fountaine of the water is ten miles from the City. There be ten very faire Churches. In the Cathedrall Church it is written in golden letters, that the bowels of Otho the Emperour are buried there. Also there is a curious picture of Christ praying in the garden, whilst his Disciples slept; and vpon a very faire Clocke are three statuaes of the three Kings of Colen, (so they call the Wise Men of the East) and these carried about by a circle of iron, worship Christ when the Clocke strikes. In the Senate House (where the imperiall Parliaments vulgarly called Reichs-tagen haue often beene held) I found nothing to answere the magnificence of this City; onely on the gates this is written: Wise men build vpon the Rocke, Fooles vpon the Sand: (for I said this part of the City on the West side was built vpon a stony hill.) In the Iesuites Church the Altar is of siluer gilded ouer, and another Altar of Christs Natiuity is curiously painted like the barks of trees. Augsburg (called of the Vandals, for distinction from Augsburg Rauracorum in Sweitzerland,) is diuided from the Vandals by the Brooke Lycus, and being of old a City of Rhetia, now is reckoned the metropolitane City of Suenia, vulgarly Schwaben, & is said said to haue beene built by the sonne of Iaphet, sixe hundred yeeres before Rome was builded. Of old they had a yeerely feast to Ceres, and now vpon the same day they haue a Faire: and for the fruitfulnesse of the soyle, the City giues a sheaue of corne for their Armes. This City was vtterly destroyed by Attila, King of the Hunnes, and when he was dead, was rebuilt againe. It is a free Citie of the Empire, (which are vulgarly called Retchs-statt,) and as other free Cities, it is gouerned by Senators. There bee many Almes houses for the poore, and one, wherein foure hundreth are nourished, by rents of land and houses, giuen to that house of old by good men. The Citie is seated vpon the Northern mouth of the Alpes, in a fruitfull plaine of corne and pastures, and Hils full of game for hunting, and it may bee gathered how populous it is, by that a German Author writes, that in a yeere when no plague raigned, 1705 were baptized, and 1227 buried.

Being constant in my purpose taken at Nurnberg, to goe from Auspurge, to the West parts of Germany, and so into the Low-countries; yet I wil remember the Reader, that he shall finde the iourney from Augspurg to Venice, described in my voyage from Stode to Venice, and thence to Hierusalem. From Augspurg I rode to Vlme, and thence to Lindawe, and all the way hired my horse for sixe or seuen Batzen a day, paying for the daies in which my horse returned, and hyring footmen to bring them backe, and bearing their charges. The first day I rode foure miles thorow the territory of the Fugars, and the Bishop of Tilleng, and one mile in the territory of the Arch-Duke of Austria, of the house of Inspruch, in a mountainous Countrey full of Woods, of Iuniper, Ashes, Oakes, and Beaches, to Burg; where each man paid for his dinner and horsemeat, eight Batzen.

In the afternoone I rode foure miles to Vlme, through a fruitfull plaine of corne. Entring the City, we passed by a Bridge, the Riuer Danow, which (though running in Vlme. a plaine) yet hath a most violent course, so as boats carried downe the streame, vse to be sold at the place wherethey land, it being very difficult to bring them backe again; yet some Barkes of burthen are sometimes drawne backe, by the force of horses. My selfe haue seene tenne horses drawing one Barke, but they vse a greater number, according to occasion, some thirty or more, as they report; and he that rides on the horse neerest the Barke, is called Wage-halse, that is, Necke venturer, because hce and the horse are often drawn vnder the water, till the other horses draw them out again. This Riuer hath foure great water fals, vvhereof the greatest is at Struddle, eighteene miles from Vienna, vvhich is hardly to be passed, except it be in a floud. And the multitude of Bridges are very dangerous for boats, by reason of the violent streame, and especially because the Marriners are many times drunken, or negligent. They vse for a charme, to sprinkle their drawing horses with water, and vse with continuall loud cries to make them draw. This Nauigation is very necessary that the lower Oestreich, being fertill, may supply the vpper being barren, with wine and corne. Munster writeth of two fals of this Riuer, one below Lintz, where the waters make a terrible noyse, beating vpon the rocky bed, the other at Gryn, vvhere the water makes a dangerous whirle-poole of vnsearchable depth. Vlme is seated in Schwaben or Sueuia, as Augspurge is, and hath his name of Elme trees. Charles the Great built a Monastery in this Village, which in time grew to a City, and vnder the Emperour Fredrick the third, bought their freedome of the Monkes. The building thereof is of wood and clay. The order of Knights called in Latine, Teutonicus, was in old time of great power, and hath yet a house in this Citie. It hath one stately Church, in the Yard whereof, the Mount Oliuet is curiously ingrauen. It hath a faire Senate house, and the Armory hath such store of Ordinance and all Munitions, as it yeeldeth not therein to the proudest City in Germany. The writing Tables, made in this City, are famous for their goodnesse, and are thence carried into forraine parts. The diet of the Innes of this City (seated in a most fertill soyle) is very plentifull, both in meats and banquets, where each man paied for his dinner, seuen Batzen. In this Country they drinke nothing but wine, (as they doe in all vpper Germany,) but it is sharpe, and the Masse or measure is sold for three Batzen. When wee were at dinner, a Tumbler came in, and being admitted to shew his cunning, hee stood vpon his head and dranke a measure of wine, which seemed strange to the beholders.

After dinner, we rode a mile in a pleasant valley vpon the Danow, which wee passed, and rode two miles further in the like fertill plaine, which is very large, and by all men much commended for the fruitfull pastures thereof. And so wee came to Baltring, subiect to a little free Citie called Bubery, and here each man paied fiue Batzen for dinner, and three for horse-meat. Next morning, after a miles riding, we came to the City Bubery and rode two miles further to Waldshut, through woody Mountaines, and corne vallies, which were so boggey, as many times wee had almost stuck fast. The Countrey belongs to the Arch-Duke, of the family of Inspruck; and heere wee paied each man nine Batzen for dinner and horsemeat. After dinner wee rode two miles through a woody Country, to Rauenspurg, a free Citie, seated betweene Mountaines, whereof one hangeth ouer it, and the Riuer Ach runneth by it, in a narrow bed; so as the waters falling from the Mountaines very swiftly, doe many times ouerflow, to the great damage of the Countrey; and from the Mountaines many woodden pipes conuey water to the City. In these parts bee many Almes houses, for those that are infected with Leprosie, who may not come neere the Passengers, but doe beg of them a farre off, with the sound of a woodden clapper. Heere each man paid for his supper and horse-meat, twelue Batzen and a halfe. The first day of May, we rode three miles, one through a Wood, the rest through a plaine of corne and inclosed pastures, and Hils planted with Vines, to the City Lindaw. By the way vve saw the house of Count Montfort, and passed the Riuer Arba by a Bridge, which doth often ouerflow the plaine, doing great hurt; and there wee paid halfe a Creitzer tribute to the said Count, for each man. We were now come out of Sueuia, and had rode two miles in Algoia, and on the left hand towards the South, we discouered the mouth of the Alpes, which in this place is called Spliego.

Lindaw is a free City of the Empire, which freedome it bought in the yeere 1166, and it is almost an I and, seated in the lake called Acronius (vulgarly Bodensea) being Lindaw. ioyned to the continent by a Bridge of stone on the North-east side, where it hath onely one gate, called Burg-thore, by which wee entred. On this side, the fields are very pleasant, and planted with Vines, and neere the Bridge there is a Rampier, so old, as they say, it was erected by the Heathen, before any Christians were. Hence the City lies in length towards the South West: partly on the West, and altogether on the South side lies the lake Bodensea, that is, vpper sea, close by the houses of the Citizens, where they descend by staires to take water. Beyond the lake are most high Mountaines, which were then couered with snow, and at the foot of the highest Mountaines, there is a Tower, which they report to be built by Hannibal, neere which is the place, famous by the defeat of Hasdrubal. On this side the City, they shew a stone, whence they say, the Saint called Aurelia, passed the lake (woe to them that beleeue) at one step. The Riuer Bregets falleth most violently from the said Mountaines, whence also the Rheine discendeth in a narrow bed, and may bee passed with horse and foot when it ouerfloweth not. Both these runne into the Lake, and the Rheine, till it come out of the Lake againe, loseth the name. There is but one Church in the City, besides a ruined Monastery. The Citizens draw their water to seethe their meat, and mingle it with wine; not out of the Lake, but from Wels. Three Consuls chosen for life, and twenty Senators gouerne the City. Beyond the Lake in the Territorie of the Arch Dukes of Austria, is a bath of great vertue, and a Monastery built by Otho the second, with great priuiledges, vpon a vow hee made, being in great danger, when he passed the Lake, and there murtherers haue a sanctuary. There is much salt made in the City, and carried thence to other parts. Heere I paied each meale six Batzen. They drinke altogether wine, whereof the measure of the old is giuen for eleuen Creitzers, the new for nine, (of which measures twentie make some twenty two English beere quarts. By ill fortune I was here forced to exhibite a Petition to the Consuls, both in the Dutch and Latine tongues, the euent whereof I will set downe after the Petition. The forme whereof in English was this, after the Dutch fashion, euer tedious in their stiles or titles.

HOnourable, prouident, good, wise, Lords and Consuls; I humbly desire you to respect my cause, as of a stranger far from his friends, and bereaued of his money by deceit. Thus my case standeth. Being at Nurnberg, and purposing thence to goe to Bazell, there to study, I dealt with a Merchant, that hee would exchange my money thither, retaining onely so much as would plentifully serue mee for my expences thither. There I met with M. B. a Citizen of Lindaw, who told me that the gold Guldens of Rheine were not to be spent in these parts without losse. So as I finding him acknowledged by the Carriers of this City (then being there) and by many Nurnbergers, for the sonne of a Senator in this Towne, was induced to deliuer him some gold Guldens, to be paid mee heere in French Crownes, and wee comming in company together to this Towne, when I saw many principall Citizens gratalate his returne, I was induced to deliuer him the rest of my gold Guldens, which I had kept for the expence of my iourney, vpon his promise to exchange them into French Crownes. So as in all hee is to pay mee thirtie two French Crownes wanting six Creitzers, (for twenty seuen of which French Crownes, and thirty six Creitzers, I tooke his bill at Nurnberg, but the rest I deliuered him here vpon his bare word.) Heere I expected his payment eight dayes, and when I was instant with him to put off the payment no longer, he is stoln out of the Towne, and his brothers giue me no hope of payment: being not so noble, as to ponder the case rightly, or to haue any due fecling of my state. Being in this case, not able without money to goe on my iourney, or indure the delayes of a sute in Law against him heere; all my hope is in your iust helpe, which failing me, I know not what course to take. Therefore I desire earnestly of your worthinesse, to assist mee, and giue expedition to my cause, that I may be deliuered by your goodnesse.

My debtor, while he liued in the publike Inne with mee, vsed mee with all curtesie; but finding himselfe disinherited by his father lately dead, and so dispairing of means to pay me, he was now fled to the Monastery beyond the Lake, being a sanctuary for wicked-persons and bankrupts. He that knowes the honesty of the Dutch, will not much maruell that I was thus deceiued by a Dutch-man, whom I knew not to be tainted with forraine vices, but it grieued me to be thus-scorned by fortune, & it afflicted me beyond measure, that I should bee forced to spend the time (dearer to mee then gold) in following the Law at Lindaw, which I hoped to imploy in my studies at Bazell. Therefore not to bee wanting to my selfe, I hyred a horse, and made this cozenage knowne to the Arch-Dukes officer, desiring him to exclude my debtor from the priuiledge of the Monastery. But this Dutch Gentleman, finding mee to speake Latine readily, tooke mee for some Schoole-master, and despised both mee and my cause: so as I returned to the Citie weary and sad, hauing obtained no fauor. But a better starre shined there on mee, for the Consuls that day had determined in Court, that my debtors horses should bee sought out, and deliuered to mee; and the Lawyers and Clearkes were so courteous to me, as neither they nor any other would take the least reward of mee, though I pressed them to receiue it. Then my debtors brother being loth the horses should be carried away, paid me my mony, and I gladly tooke my iourney thence towads Bazel. This integrity of the Dutch Magistrates, (which especially in the Cities of the reformed Religion, hauing found by many testimonies, I cannot sufficiently commend) and curtesie of the Dutch towards strangers, I haue thought good in this place thankefully to acknowledge.

Vpon the Lake Acrontiis, vulgarly Boden-sea, that is vpper sea, I passed by boate foure miles to Costnetz, and paied for my passage three Batzen. Betweene this vpper sea and the lower sea, vulgarly Vnden-sea: this Citie Costnetz lyeth on the banke Costnets. lengthwise, and is subiect to Ferdinand of Inspruch, Arch-Duke of Austria, whose base sonne hath also the Bishopricke of that City, which is famous by a Councell held there, whither Iohn Hus was called, with the Emperours safe conduct, in the yeere 1414, yet was there condemned of Heresie, and burned. On the West side of the Citie; within the walles, in the Monastery called Barfussen Cloyster, is the Tower wherein he was imprisoned; and without the walles on the left hand, as you goeout, is a faire meadow, and therein a stone vpon the high-way, to which he was bound, being burnt the same yeere 1414, in the Month of Iuly. Where also his fellow Ierom of Prage was burnt in September, the yeere following, both their ashes being cast into the Lake, lest the Bohemians should carry them away. The Senatehouse in which this Councell was held, is of no beauty. When the Emperour Charles the fifth, besieged this Citie, it was yeelded to the hands of Ferdinand King of Bohemia, and brother to Charles, who made the Citizens peace for them. Heere each man paid eight Batzen a meale, and for wine betweene meales, eight creitzers the measure.

Hence I went by boat, two miles to Styga, and paied for my passage two Batzen. We tooke boat at the end of the Lake close by the City; where the Rheine comming againe out of the Lake, and taking his name therein lost, doth runne in all narrow bed; and when wee had gone by water some houre and a halfe, wee entred the lower Lake, called Vnden-sea. Neere Costnetz is an Iland called little Meinow, and in this lower lake is another Iland called Reichnow, of the riches, the Monastery therof hauing of old so much lands, as the Monkes being sent to Rome, vsed to lodge euery night in their owne possessions. This Iland is said to beare nothing that hath poyson, so as any such beast dieth presently in it: and in the Monastery are some reliques of Saint Marke, for which (as they say) the Venetians haue offered much money. VVriters report that of old, a Monke thereof climing vp a ladder, to looke into a huge vessell of wine, and being ouercome with the vapour, fell into the same, with a great bunch of keyes in his hand, and that shortly after this wine was so famous, as Princes and Nobles, and many sickly persons vsually sent for the same; the cause of the goodnes being not knowne to proceed of the putrified flesh, till the vessell being empty, the keyes and the Friers bones were found therein; the Monkes till then thinking that their fellow had secretly gone to some other Monastery of that Order: yet the Dutch in my company reported, that this happened in a Monastery not farre off, called Salmanschwell. By the way was a stately Pallace belonging to the Fugares of Augsburg. On the East-side, out of the walles of Styga, lye woody fields, on the West-side the Iland Horue; and pleasant Hils full of vines and corne. In this City, the Bishop of Costnetz hath his Pallace, who is Lord of the two Ilands, Meinow, and Reichnow, and hath very large possessions in these parts, mingled with the territories of other Lords. And this City is vpon the confines of Germany and Sweitzerland.

Hence I passed by boat two miles to Schaffhausen, and paied for my passage two Schaffhausen. Batzen. The swistnes of the Rheine made the miles seeme short, and this riuer againe loseth his name in the said lower Lake, and when it comes (or rather violently breakes) out of it, then resumes it againe. This City is one of the confederate Cantons of Sweitzerland. Not farre from this City, on the South side in the riuer Rheine, is a great fall of the waters ouer a rocke some fifty cubits downeward, passing with huge noyse and ending all in fome. And for this cause the Barkes are forced to vnlade here, and to carry their goods by carts to the City, and from the City to imbarke them againe, which yeeldeth great profit to the City, by taxations imposed on the goods, which must necessarily be landed there. On both sides the riuer, as we came to this City, are pleasant hils planted with vines, & faire pastures with sweet groues. The City is round in forme, and is washed with the Rheine on the South side; and vpon the banke of the riuer within the Towne, is a pleasant greene, where the Citizens meete to exercise the shooting of the Harquebuze and crosse-Bow, where also is a Lynden or Teyle tree, giuing so large a shade, as vpon the top it hath a kinde of chamber, boarded on the floore, with windowes on the sides, and a cocke, which being turned, water fals into a vessel through diuers pipes, by which it is conueyed thither for washing of glasses and other vses: and heere the Citizens vse to drinke and feast together, there being sixe tables for that purpose. On the same South side is a Monastery, with walles and gates like a little City. It hath the name of 〈◊〉 that is a sheepe, or Schiff, that is a ship, and Hausse, that is a house, as of a fold for 〈◊〉 , or roade for shippes. Here I paid for each meale six batzen. For the better vnderstanding of my iourney from Schafhusen to Zurech, I will prefix a letter which I wrote to that purpose from Bazel.

IN the end of the Month of Iune, and the yeere 1593: hauing now dispatched by Letters, all my businesse in An. 1593. England, and hauing seene the vnited Prouinces, I was in doubt by what way I should returne into Italy: and hauing already passed the two waies of Germany, that by Augspurge, and the other by the Sweitzers, and the way by France being then shut vp by the ciuill warres, the common desire of Trauellers not to passe the same way twice, but to see as many new Countries as their course will permit; made me resolue to passe through the Kingdomes of Denmarke and Poland, and by the fortified City of Wien in Austria. In which iourney, howsoeuer I should goe much out of my way, and was like to indure many troubles; yet I thought nothing was difficult to a willing minde. Therefore I hired a waggon from Leyden to Vtrecht, and paied for my part twelue stiuers. Wee passed three miles and a halfe in three houres, by the village Alpha, where the Spaniards incamped, when they besieged Leyden; and by a little Towne called Gonda, hauing on both sides faire pastures, but somewhat ouer flowed, and ditches set with willowes; and we came to a little village, where the waggoner gaue his horses meat. Then in foure houres space wee passed foure miles and a halfe, hauing on both sides fruitfull corne fields, and like ditches set with willowes, and so we came to Vtrecht. But a mile and a halfe before we came thither, we passed out of the Territory of Holland, and entred the Bishopricke of Vtrecht, which is one of the vnited Prouinces. Not farre from the City wee saw a crosse, set vp for a Monument of a Bishop dying in battell against the Hollanders. I had almost forgotten the little City Werden, which they shewed vs by the way, and told vs, that the forme thereof was like the City of Ierusalem, which at that time I had not seene, and therefore mention this from their report, rather then from my iudgement.

The City Vtrecht is seated in length from South-east, by East, to North-west by West, and vpon the end at South-east by East, is the gate Weitefraw, where the Rheine V'tretcht. enters the City. At the other end, Noth-west by West, are the ruines of an old Castle, which the Spaniards kept before the wars, to bridle the City: and there be two gates, Saint Katherine-port, and Wert-port, each of them hauing their suburbes. On the South-west side are walles of earth, but the ditches were almost dry. On the North-east side is the gate Olske-port, and there bee three strong Rauelings, one defending the other. On this side bee two streets fairer then the rest, called New-graft, and Altkirkhoffe; and there is a pleasant walke well shaded with trees, vpon the banke of the Riuer. In the midst of the City is the Cathedrall Church, hauing a faire Tower, and a Bell, which they report to be of eighteene thousand pounds weight Neere to the same is the Bishops Pallace, wherein the Bishops dwelt before the vnion of the Prouinces; but at this time there dwelled the Countesse of Meurs, whose husband died in these warres. In the same part lie the market place, and the Senate house. The houses of the City are of bricke, and fairely built, but lose much of their beautie by being couered on the outside with boords, and they seeme to haue more antiquitic, then the buildings of Holland. There be thirty Churches, but onely three are vsed for diuine seruice. In Saint Maries Church, (which as I remember is the Cathedrall Church) these verses are written vpon a piller.

Vpon a second piller this is written in Latine.

A Frison killed the Bishop because hee had learned of him, being drunke, and betrayed by his sonne, the Art to stop a gulfe in this place, the yeere 1099.

Vpon a third piller this is written in Latine:

The Emperour Henry the fourth, built this Church to our Lady, because hee had pulled downe another Church at Milane, dedicated to her.

And to my vnderstanding, they shewed me at this time manifest signes of the aforesaid gulfe, which these inscriptions witnesse to haue beene in this place. Heere I paied for my supper twenty stiuers, and for my breakefast six stiuers.

From hence I went to Amsterdam, fiue miles in three houres space, and paied for my passage in the waggon ten stiuers. For halfe the way on both sides wee had faire pastures, and saw many strong Castles belonging to Gentlemen. Neere Vtrecht, at the passage of a riuer each man paid a Doight, and before wee came to the halfe way, we passed the confines of this Bishopricke, and entred the County of Holland. Then in the space of two houres and a halfe, we came to Amsterdam, hauing in our way on both sides faire pastures.

On Friday in the beginning of the Month of Iuly, at fiue a clocke in the euening, I tooke ship, vpon the Mast whereof was a garland of Roses, because the master of this ship then wooed his wife, which ceremony the Hollanders vsed. And the sea being calme, wee passed eight miles to Enchusen, where wee cast anchor. By the way wee passed a shole, where our sterne struck twise vpon the sand, not without feare of greater mischiese. On Saturday we'sayeld betweene West Freesland vpon our right hands towards the East, and Holland vpon our left hands towards the West, and after tenne miles sayling, came to the Iland Fly, which being of small compasse, and Fly. consisting of sandy hils, hath two villages in it. From hence they reckon twenty eight miles by sea to Hamburg in Germany, whether we purposed to goe. Assoone as wee cast anchor here, the Master of our ship went aboard the Admirall of certaine ships, which vsed to lie here, to guard this mouth of the sea, with whom hee spake concerning our passage to Hamburg, and deliuered him Letters, commanding that our ship should haue a man of war to wast it. This Admirall lay continually in this harbour, to guard this passage into the sea, and he commanded nine ships, which were vpon all occasions to wast the Hollanders to Hamburg, and defend them from the Dunkirkers, and all Pirats. But at this time there was not one of these men of warre in the harbour, and the Admirall himselfe might not goe forth. So as for this cause, and for the tempestious weather, wee staied here all Sunday. But vpon Monday, the winde being faire for vs, and contrary for the men of warre that were to come in, so that losing this winde, we must haue expected (not without great irkesomnesse) a second winde to bring in some of these men of warre, and a third winde to carry vs on our iourney: the Master of our ship (carrying sixe great Peeces, and hauing some tenne Muskets) did associate himselfe with seuen other little ships, (hauing only Pikes and swords) and so more boldly then wisely resolued to passe to Hamburg without any man of warre.

This Monday morning we hoysed saile, but being calmed at noone, we cast anchor between the Fly, on our left hand toward the West, and another little Iland Shelling on our right hand towards the East: and lying here, wee might see two little barkes, houering vp and downe, which wee thought to be Fisher-men, and nothing lesse then Pirats of Dunkirke. Here till euening we were tossed by the waues, which vse to bee more violent vpon the coast; but a faire winde then arising, all our shippes gladly weighed anchor. At which time it happened that the anchor of our ship brake, so as our consorts went on, but our Master, according to the nauall discipline, not to put to sea with one anchor, returned backe to the harbour of the Fly, there to buy a new anchor, all of vs foolishly cursing our fortune and the starres. On Tuesday morning while wee sadly walked on the shoare, vvee might see our consorts comming backe with torne sailes, and dead men, and quarters of men, lying on the hatches. We beholding this with great astonishment, tooke boat to board them, and demanding the newes, they told vs that the little barks we saw the day before vvere Dunkirkers, hauing in each of them eighty Souldiers, and some few great Peeces, and that they had taken them, & spoiled their ships, of their chiefe & lightest goods, and had carried away prisoners to Dunkirk all the passengers & chief Marriners, after they had first wrung their foreheads with twined ropes, & with many horrible tortures, forced them to confesse what money they had presently, & what they could procure for ransom. Further, with mourning voice they told vs, that the Pirats inquired much after our ship, saying that was it the bride, with whom they meant to dance, cursing it to be destroyed with a thousand tuns of diuels, & swearing that if they had foreseene our escape, they would haue assailed vs by day, while we rode at anchor. They added, that they had left no goods, but those they could not carry for weight, and had changed their ragged shirts and apparell with the poore Marriners. And indeed they had iust cause to bewaile the escape of our shippe, being laded with many chests of Spanish Ryalls, whereof they were not ignorant, vsing to haue their spies in such places, who for a share in the booty, would haue betrayed their very brothers. As we had iust cause to praise almighty God, who had thus deliuered vs out of the lawes of death, so had wee much more cause to bewaile our rashnesse, yea and our wickednesse, that we had striuen, yea and repined against his diuine prouidence, which with humble and hearty sorrow I confesse to the glory of his sacred name. In this Iland I paied for my supper and bed ten stiuers, for my breakfast and dinner eight stiuers.

On Wednesday we had a most faire winde, but the terrour of our last escape, made vs stay in the harbour. In the euening I went to lodge in the village, and paied tenne stiuers for my supper and bed, and there I saw great store of all kindes of shel-fish, sold for a very small price.

Since this iourney by Sea, (had besides our expectation) proued so difficult, my selfe, though I had seene the Cities vpon the sea coast of Germany, yet preferring my safety before the charge and trouble of that way, did resolue to passe to Hamburg by land, with which purpose when I acquainted my consorts; suddenly al the passengers resolued to leaue the ships, and to go by land; at which resolution the Masters of the ships stormed, but when each of vs had payed them a Doller for our passage from Amsterdam to the Fly, they were well pacified.

My selfe and nine consorts in my company, hired a boat for thirty stiuers, each man paying three stiuers: and so vpon Thursday in foure houres space, wee sailed three miles to Harlingen a City of west Freesland, passing the aforesaid Inland sea. And the same day hiring a boat, for which each man paied six stiuers: wee passed a mile to the City Froniker, where is an Vniuersity, and passing by water through the midst of that pleasant little City, we passed two miles further, to Lewerden, where we lodged, and I paied for my supper ten stiuers. The next morning, being Friday, wee passed in six houres space two long miles to Dockam, and each man paied for his boate hire three stiuers. Without delay in the afternoone we entred a barke, to saile from West Freesland, one of the vnited Prouinces, into East Freesland, a Prouince of the German Empire: but scarce one mile from the towne we cast anchor, to expect the floud; and lying there, we heard from the land great noise, barking of dogs, cries of men, and sounding of bells, which proceeded from some Spanish Free-booters breaking out of Groning, to spoile the Peasants. All the next day wee sailed, and in the euening for our better safety wee cast anchor neere a man of warre, (whereof there be some appointed to lie in this Inland Sea, to guard the friends of the States,) and early the next morning being Sunday, wee set saile, and by the rising of the sunne, landed in the Iland of Rotermere (which is diuided from the continent by this Inland Sea, and hath the maine Sea on the other side,) whence soone after we parted, and were put on land in East Freesland, a Prouince of the Empire, and passing one mile on foot, came to the City of Emden.

I said that the States maintained some men of warre in this Inland Sea, and these vsed to send out in lesser boates some bodies of men, to search the Barkes whether they be friends or not; which bodies of men are vulgarly called Dieiagt, that is, the hunting, of a metaphor taken from the hunting of dogs. For my passage from Dockam to Emden I paid ten stiuers, and here for supper and breakefast I paid twenty three stiuers, though the ordinary rate be but sixe stiuers a meale without wine: and for a pound of cherries I paid eight stiuers.

In our iourney to Stode, the first day wee came in sixe houres space three miles, to the village Detrem, vpon the confines of the county of Emden, passing through fruitfull corne fields, and faire meadowes; and being eight in the Waggon, we all paid fifteene stiuers for the same. From hence we went a mile through wild and fenny fields, to the village Open, and each foure consorts paid for their Waggon three stiuers, and our Waggon was driuen by a woman. Here the Graue or Count of Oldenburg hath a Castle, and each man paid for his supper seuen groates. By night we passed foure miles through a wild heath, to Oldenburg, and foure consorts paid ten stiuers for a Waggon. They haue very little horses in these parts to draw the Waggons, like to the gallo way nags of Scotland. The second day wee passed two miles and a halfe in foure houres space, through a sandy heath ground and thicke woods of oake, and came to a Village; where each man paid for his dinner foure stiuers. After dinner we passed more then a mile through a like wooddy Heath, and in three houres space came to Delmerhurst, where the Count of Oldenburge hath a faire and strong Castle, though it be a poore Village: and here each man paid halfe a stiuer to the Count, and for our Waggon ten stiuers. The same day we passed a mile through sandy pastures, and in three houres space came to Breme, where each man paid for our Waggon foure groats, and for our supper fiue lubecke shillings. From Breme we passed foure miles through wild fields, yeelding some little corne, and thicke woods, and in sixe houres space came to a poore house; where each man paid for dinner fiue lubecke shillings. Here those which carried any merchandise paid tole: and one man hauing a packe which a man might carry on his shoulder, paid foure lubecke shillings for the same: but all that goe to study in Vniuersities, or be no Merchants, are free from this imposition. After dinner we passed three miles in fiue houres space to Furd, where each man paid for his supper fiue lubecke shillings. The next day from two of the clocke in the morning to seuen, wee passed three miles through a heath and woods of oake, and came to Stode, where each man paid for his Waggon from Breme twenty two Lubecke shillings. At Stode I paid for my dinner in a Dutch Inne foure Lubecke shillings and a halfe, and for a steifkin or measure of Rhenish wine, halfe a doller. I briefly passe ouer this iourney vpon the sea-coast of Germany, because I formerly discribed the same.

The one and twenty of Iuly, I passed in foure houres space by boat fiue miles to Hamburge, and paid for my passage by water three Lubecke shillings, for my supper foure, and one for my bed. Early in the morning I passed six miles in sixe houres space, through wild fenny fields, woods of oake, and some few fields of corne, and came to the Village Altslow, seated in a bogge, whereof it hath the name; where I paid for my dinner fiue Lubecke shillings and a halfe. Giue me leaue to tell you a ridiculous toy, yet strange and true: At Hamburge gate leading to Lubecke, we found a dogge that followed vs, and some passengers of credit assured mee, that for many yeeres this dogge had lien at that gate, and euery day without intermission, watching the first Coach that came forth, had followed the same to this village Altslow, being the bayting place at noone, and after dinner had returned backe to Hamburge gate, with another Coach comming from Lubecke, for Coaches passe daily betweene those Cities.

After dinner we passed foure miles in foure houres space, through hils more thicke with woods, but in many places bearing good corne, and came to Lubecke. For my place in the Coach this day I paid twenty lubecke shillings, and this night for my supper and bed, I paid sixe lubecke shillings. Here I bought the foureteenth Booke of Amadis de Gaule, in the Dutch tongue, to practise the same: for these Bookes are most eloquently translated into the Dutch, and fit to teach familiar language; and for this Booke I paid eighteene lubecke shillings, and for the binding foure; and for a Map of Europe to guide me in my iourney, I paid foureteene lubecke shillings: Also I paid for a measure of Rhenish wine fiue lubecke shillings, and as much for a measure of Spanish wine. From Lubcke I passed two miles in three houres space, through fruitfull hils of corne, and some woods of oake to the village Tremuren, and paid for my coach the fourth part of a Doller (which notwithstanding vseth to be hired for fiue lubecke shillings) and for my supper I paid foure lubecke shillings. I formerly shewed that this village is the Hauen, where the great ships vse to be vnladed, and from thence to be carried vpto lie at Lubecke in the winter.

Here I tooke ship to sayle into Denmarke, vpon the Balticke Sea, so called, because it is compassed by the Land, as it were with a girdle. This sea doth not at all ebbe and flow, or very little, after it hath passed in by the streight of Denmarke, being more then twenty foure miles long, so as vpon the shoares of Prussen, Muscaw, and Suetia, this sea seemes little to be moued, and many times is frozen with ice, from the shore farre into the sea; and the waues thereof once stirred with the winds, are very high, neither is the water of this sea any thing so salt as otherwhere, so as the ships sayling therein, doe sinke deeper at least three spans then in the German Ocean, as manifestly appeares by the white sides of the ships aboue water when they come out of this sea, and enter the said Ocean. And this will not seeme strange to any, who haue seene an egge put into salt pits, and how it swimmes, being borne vp with the salt water. The Master of the Lubecke ship in which I passed to Denmarke, gaue me beere for foure lubeck shillings; for which the Dutchmen and Danes drinking more largely, paid but one lubecke shilling more, and euery man had prouided victuals for himselfe. I paid for my passage twenty foure lubecke shillings, and gaue foure to the marriners. From Lubecke they reckon twenty foure miles to Falsterboaden, and from thence seuen miles to Coppenhagen, so called as the Hauen of Merchants. We left vpon our lefthand towards the South, a little Iland called Munde, and (as I remember) the third day of August, landed at Drakesholme, being one mile from Coppenhagen, whether I passed in a Waggon through some pastures and barren corne fields; and neere the City I passed ouer the Coppenhagen Hauen from one Iland to another. I paid for my Waggon three lubecke shillings.

At our entrance of the City, on the East-side, is the Kings Castle, where the Court lies, especially in winter time. On this side, the City lies vpon the sea, and there is the said Hauen, as likewise on the North-side the sea is little distant from the City. When I entered the gates, the guard of souldiers examined me strictly, and the common people, as if they had neuer seene a stranger before, shouted at mee after a barbarous fashion; among which people were many marriners, which are commonly more rude in such occasions, and in all conuersation. The City is of a round forme, in which, or in the Kings Castle, I obserued no beauty or magnificence. The Castle is built of free-stone in a quadrangle. The City is built of timber and clay; and it hath a faire market place, and is reasonably well fortified. Here I paid for three meales and breakefast eight lubecke shillings, and as much for beere. The King at this time lay at Roschild, purposing shortly to goe into the Dukedome of Holst, where he had appointed a meeting of the gentlemen at Flansburge, to receiue their homage there, which vppon Roschild. old piuiledges they had refused to doe vnto him in Denmarke.

Therefore I went foure miles in foure houres space, through a wild hilly Country, to Roschild, so called of the Kings Fountaine; and my selfe and one companion paid twenty lubecke shillings for our Waggon: and though it were the moneth of August, yet the wind blowing strong from the North, and from the Sea, I was very cold, as if it had beene then winter. Roschild hath a Bishop, and though it be not walled, hath the title of a City; but well deserues to be numbred among faire and pleasant Villages. Here they shew a whet stone, which Albrecht King of Suetia, sent to Margaret Queene of Denmarke, despising her as a woman, and in scoffe bidding her to whet her swords therewith: but this Queene tooke the said King prisoner in that warre, and so held him till death. Here I paid seuen Danish shillings for my supper. In the chancell of the Church is a monument of blacke and white stone for this Queene Margaret and her daughter, and the Danes so reuerence this Queene, as they haue here to shew the apparell she vsed to weare. In this Church are the sepulchers of the Kings, whereof one erected by Frederick, for Christianus his father, is of blacke Marble and Alablaster, curiously carued, hauing his statua kneeling before a Crucifix, and hung round about with sixteene blacke flags, and one red.

Hauing seene the King and the Courtiers, my selfe and my companion next day returned to Coppenhagen, each of vs paying for the waggon tenne Lubeck shillings: and here I paid for my supper six Lubeck shillings, and three for beere.

From hence I passed by sea, foure miles in fiue houres space, to Elsinure, and paied for my passage eight Lubeck shillings, and for my supper eight Danish shillings. And because I was to returne hither, to take ship for Dantzke, I passed the next morning three miles in foure houres space; through Hils of corne but somewhat barren, and woods of Beech, to Fredericksburg, and hauing but one companion with mee, wee paied for our waggon thither, and so to Coppenhagen, each of vs twenty two Lubeck Fredericksburg. shillings. Here the King hath a Pallace, and a little Parke walled in, where (among other forraine beasts) were kept some fallow Deare, transported hither out of England, the twenty foure yeere of Queene Elizabeths raigne. I paied for my dinner foure Danish shillings, and as much for beere.

In the afternoone we passed fiue miles in six houres, through barren fields of corne, and groues of Beech and hasel-nuts, to Cappenhagen, and by the way we saw a Crosse, set vp in memory of a waggoner, who hauing drunke too much, droue his waggon so fast, as hee ouerturned it on the side of a Hil, and himselfe broke his necke. The waggoners haue an appointed place at Coppenhagen, where they haue a stable for their horses for two Danish shillings a night, but themselues buy hay and oates. And the next day by noone, they must return to their dwellings, though they go empty, when no passengers are to be found.

From hence, my selfe and one companion, hired a waggon for twelue Lubeck shillings each of vs, to Elsinure, being fiue miles, whither we came in fiue houres, fetching many circuits vpon the sea coasts.

This is a poore village, but much frequented by sea-faring men, by reason of the straight sea, called the Sownd; where the King of Denmark hath laid so great impositiō Elsinure. vpon ships and goods comming out of the Balticke sea, or brought into the same, as this sole profit passeth all the reuenewes of his Kingdome. In this village a strong Castle called Croneburg lyeth vpon the mouth of the Straight, to which on the other side of this Narrow sea, in the Kingdome of Norway, another Castle is opposite, called Elsburg, and these Castles keepe the Straight, that no ship can passe into the Baltick sea, or out of it, hauing not first paied these impositions. They say there is another passage between two Ilands (for all the Kingdom of Denmark consists of little Ilands) but the same is forbidden vpon penalty of confiscation of all the goods. And they report that three shippes in a darke fog passed this straight without paying any thing; but after, this being made knowne to the Kings ministers, at the returne of the said ships all their goods were confiscated. In respect of the Danes scrupulous and iealous nature, I did with great difficulty, (putting on a Merchants habite, and giuing a greater reward then the fauour deserued,) obtaine to enter Croneburg Castle, which was built foure square, and hath only one gate on the East side, where it lies vpon the straight. Aboue this gate is a chamber in which the King vseth to eat, and two chambers wherein the King and Queene lie apart. Vnder the fortification of the Castle round about, are stables for horses, and some roomes for like purposes. On the Southside towards the Baltick sea, is the largest roade for ships. And vpon this side is the prison, and aboue it a short gallery. On the West side towards the village is the Church of the Castle, & aboue it a very faire gallery, in which the King vseth to feast at solemne times. On the North side is the prospect partly vpon the Iland, and partly vpon the Narrow sea, which reacheth twenty foure miles to the German Ocean. And because great store of ships passe this way in great Fleets, of a hundreth more or lesse together: this prospect is most pleasant to all men, but most of all to the King, seeing so many shippes, whereof not one shall passe, without adding somewhat to his treasure. On this side lie two chambers, which are called the King of Scotland his chambers, euer since his Maiesty lodged there, when he wooed and married his Queene. The hangings thereof were of redde cloch, and the chaires and stooles couered with the same, but they said that the rich furniture was laid vp in the Kings absence. The Hauen will receiue great number of shippes, and it hath Croneburge Castle on the North side, the Castle of Elsburg on the East side, and Zealand (the chiefe Iland of the Kingdome) on the West side, and the Iland Wheen on the South side.

To which Iland the long straight or narrow sea lies opposite towards the North, leading into the German Ocean. This Iland Wheen is a mile long, and not altogether so broad, hauing onely one groue in it. This solitary place, King Fredrick, Father to Christianus now raigning, gaue to a Gentleman called Tugo-Brahe for his dwelling, who being a famous Astronomer liued here solitarily at this time, & was said to haue some Church liuings for his maintenance, and to liue vnmarried, but keeping a Concubine, of whom he had many children, & the reason of his so liuing, was thought to be this; because his nose hauing been cut off in a quarrell, when he studied in an Vniuersitiy of Germany, he knew himselfe thereby disabled to marry any Gentlewoman of his own quality. It was also said that the gentlemen lesse respected him for liuing in that sort, and did not acknowledge his sonnes for Gentlemen. King Frederick also gaue this learned Gentleman of his free gift, many and very faire Astronomicall instruments, and he liuing in a pleasant Iland, wherein no man dwelt but his family, wanted no pleasure which a contemplatiue man could desire. Besides the aforesaid instruments, this Gentleman had a very faire Library, full of excellent bookes, and a like faire still-house. Besides not farre from his house, he had a little round house of great beauty, in which he did exercise his speculation, the couer thereof being to bee remoued at pleasure, so as lying with his face vpward, he might in the night time fully behold the Starres, or any of them. In this little house all famous Astronomers vvere painted, and the following Verses were added, each to the picture, to which they belong.

In the best place this Gentleman Tugo Brahe had set his owne picture, with the following Verses;

Many Instruments are there placed by him, which himselfe inuented, and hee hath made a solemne dedication of the house to the ages to come, with earnest prayers that they will not pull downe this Monument.

The Danes thinke this Iland Wheen to be of such importance, as they haue an idle fable, that a King of England should offer for the possession of it, as much scarlet cloth as would couer the same, with a Rose-noble at the corner of each cloth. Others tell a fable of like credit, that it was once sold to a Merchant, whom they scoffed when he came to take possession, bidding him take away the earth he had bought. The great reuenew exacted in this straight, hath giuen occasion to these and the like fables. And in truth, if either the King of Suetia, or the free City of Lubeck, had the possession of this Iland, and were fortified therein, they might easily command this passage, and extort what they list, from the Merchants passing that way, and perhaps conquer the parts adioyning; but the possession thereof were altogether vnprofitable for any Prince, whose Territories lie out of the Sound, the entrance whereof is forbid by the two foresaid strong Castles. But lest I should bee as foolish as they, I returne to my purpose. And first giue me leaue to mention, that there lies a City not farre distant, in the Kingdome of Norway, which is called London, as the chiefe City in England is called.

Vpon Sunday, the twenty six of August, in the yeere 1593, I tooke an English An. 1593. ship heere, to saile into Prussen, hauing first bought for my victuals halfe a lambe for twelue Danish shillings, thirty egges for six shillings, and some few pots of Spanish wine, for forty two Danish shillings, with some other small prouisions. From Elsinure to Dantzk, they reckon eighty English miles. Assoone as wee were come out of the harbour, wee saw two ships sayling two contrary wayes, and yet hauing both a forewind, which sometimes happens vpon the shoare, as marriners know. For of these two contrary winds, the one is airy, which holds when you are gone into the maine, the other is from the earth, and in short time faileth at the very shore: which euent we presently saw with our eyes, one of the ships going fairely on his course, the other casting anchor. The English ship in which I went, was called the Antilope, being of one hundred fifty tuns, or thereabouts, and one Master Bodley was the Master thereof, who shewed me manifest signes, where his ship in two places had beene struck with lightning; the first whereof passed into the pumpe, and rent it, but comming to the water, was by the nature thereof carried vpward, and comming out at the top of the pumpe, made two little holes; then passing to the great Mast, rent it, and made a great crany therein, from the hatches to the top. The second struck the top of the said maine Mast, and againe rent it, in such wise as it would scarcely beare saile, till wee might come to Dantzk, where the best Mastes are sold at a good rate. The first day we sayled in the Baltick sea, some fiue miles with a scant winde, and cast anchor neere Copenhagen. With a faire winde and good gaile, Marriners vsually sayle some three Dutch leagues in an houre. On Monday early, wee sayled along the shore three miles to Falsterboden. On Tuesday early, wee sayled eighteene miles to the Iland Brentholm, and vpon our left hands saw the land in two places, and there sounding with our plummet, sand of Amber stuck thereunto. The same day by noone, wee sayled the length of that Iland; and vpon Wednesday, by three of the clocke in the morning, hauing sayled thirty miles, we passed by Rose-head, being a Promentory 〈◊〉 Dantzk.

On Thurs-day by eight of the clocke in the morning, hauing sayled eighteene miles, we came to a Land called Rettell, and entered the Port of Meluin, where the water was scarce two fadome deepe, our ship drawing one fadome and a halfe: the entry was narrow, and there were many booyes floting vpon shoales & sands; and the weather being calme, we were drawne in by a boate with Oares. In like cases ships vse to draw themselues in, by the casting and weighing of Anchors, with great labour, and flow riddance of way. From Kettell we passed ten miles, and came to the Port of Meluin. Meluin. Iu the aforesaid entry of the Riuer, on the right hand towards the West, we saw Dantzke seated not farre from the sea shore, where it hath a hauen, but not so safe as this: and towards the North-east in the same place a channell runneth vp to Konigsberg, the Court of the Duke of Prussen. The Port of Meluin is searce ten foot deepe, but our ship passed through the mud, like a plow vpon land. This port is a little distant from the City, on the North-side, where we entered by a faire large street, called Martgasse, lying thence towards the South. Prussen of old was subiect to the order of the Teutonicke Knights, but by agreement made betweene the King of Poland and the Margraue or Marques of Brandeburg, Master of the said order, part of the prouince was giuen to the said Marques and his heires, with title of Duke, vnder homage to the King of Poland, with condition that for want of heire male, it should returne to the Kingdome of Poland; and the other part was then vnited to the said Kingdome: but Dantzke and Meluin remained free Cities, acknowledging the King of Poland for their Protector, for which cause they giue him many customes, and permit his Officer to abide in the City, ard receiue the same. Meluin is a little and faire City lately compassed with new wals, and at this time grew rich by the English Merchants, hauing their staple in the same. They giue good fare for foure grosh a meale; and he that paies for two meales in the day, may besides haue meat or drinke betweene meales, at pleasure, without paying any thing. The same euening we landed at Meluin, our Marriners staying in the ship, entertained other English Marriners comming aboard; and according to their custome, giuing them a peece when they departed: it happened that the peece being of iron, brake; and therewith cut the Cooke off by the middle, and rent all the prow of the ship. The English Merchants at Meluin had no Preacher, though the Citizens gaue them free exercise of religion: so that how so euer they excused in, by reason that learned Preachers could hardly be drawne to come so farre for meanes to liue, yet I thought them not free of blame in this point; because our Merchants further distant in Asia, and liuing vnder the Turkes Empire, found meanes by their bounty to haue learned Preachers. Neither indeed did I euer obserue in any other place (Italy excepted) that our Merchants wanted Preachers, where they held their staples.

From Meluin I went ten miles in one day to Dantzke, and we being onely two conforts; Dantzke. paid each of vs a Doller for our Coach. In the morning we went sixe miles, and by the way passed the Riuer Begot, comming out of the riuer Vistula, where our Coachman paid three grosh to haue his Coach carried ouer a damme. Beyond this riuer we entered the territory of the King of Poland, and passing all this way through fruitfull come fields, and rich medowes, and pastures, in a Countrey abounding with townes and Villages, we dined in a Village where we two by couenant paying for our coachman, spent each of vs eigh grosh. In the afternoone we passed the rest of the way, one mile in the-Kings territory, where we passed another damme of the riuer Vistula, and three miles to Dantzke in the territory of the same City. The King of Poland at this time was at the Port of Dantzke, called Der Mind, an English mile from the City, expecting a wind to sayle into his Kingdome of Suecin, and had with him his Queene, and many Ladies and Courtiers. Therefore desirous to see the King and the Queene, with their traine? I walked the next morning to this Port, which is barred with a mountaine of sand, so as the ships must vnlade in the roade, before they can enter this Hauen; neither is any village built there, but onely one Inne, in which the King 〈◊〉 with all his traine: but beyond the water there is a strong Castle of a round sonne. From hence after dinner I returned on foot to Dantzke. The next day the King had a good wind, but before this (as those of the Romish religion are very superstitious) the King and the Queen (being of the house of Austria) while sometimes they thought Munday, sometimes Friday, to be vnlucky daies, had lost many faire winds. The City of Dantzke is a very faire City, and howsoeuer few ages past, they had not any houses built of stone, yet at this time many were built of free-stone, and the rest of bricke, with great beauty and magnificence, being sixe or seuen roofes high. And they had publike gardens for sports, banquets, and exercises, which are very pleasant. They haue a very faire Senate-house, called Hoff, that is, the Court; and the Citizens haue a strange fashion, to put off their hats when they passe by it. From the market place being round (in which the King of Poland lodged some daies) to the gate Hochethore (being richly engraued) lieth a very faire street called Longgasse) and leads vp towards the Mountaines hanging ouer the City. The famous Riuer Vistula doth not enter the City, but passeth by it on the East-side, and running towards the North, fals into the Balticke sea, But a little brook enters the City on the South-side, and runnes through it towards the North. There is a faire water conduit, vulgarly called Wasserkunst, where by a mill the waters are drawne vp into a cesterne, from whence they are carried by pipes into all the streetes and priuate houses; besides that many Citizens haue their priuat wels. The aforesaid brooke driues many mils, among which, one for the grinding of corne, belongs to the Senate, and it hath eighteene roomes, and bringeth into the publike treasure euery houre a gold gulden, and another without any helpe of hands, saweth boords, hauing an iron wheele, which doth not onely driue the saw, but hooketh in, and turneth the boords to the saw. The Garners for laying vp of corne called speiker, are very faire, and very many lying together, in which the Citizens lay vp corne brought out of Poland, and according to the wants of Europe, carry it into many kingdomes, and many times relieue fruitfull Prouinces in time of casual dearth. The Queene of Poland came in a disguifed habit to see these garners: and they haue a law that no man may carry fire or a lighted candle into them. In the Church called Parkirk, the resurrection of our Lord is painted with great art, and the same againe is figured vnder a globe of glasse, which kinde of painting is here in vse. This City compassed with one wall, containes three Cities, gouerned by three Senates, out of which one chiefe Senate is gathered to gouerne the whole City; and these three Cities are called Furstat, that is, the fore City, and Alistat, that is, the old City, and Reichstat, that is, the Empires City. The whole-City vnited, lies in length from the South to the North, and vpon the South-side is Furstat, where the foresaid brooke diuiding the City doth enter, and there is the aforesaid water conduit, and without the wals a faire village or suburbe called Scotland, in which there is a sanctuary, which offenders may enter, paying a gulden to the Bishop; and none but Artificers, & for the most part shoomakers, d well in this suburbe. On this side, and towards the East and North, without the wals, lie plaine fields, which may be drowned at pleasure. Vpon the East-side within the wals, are the aforesaid garners for corne. On the West-side without the wals, great mountaines hang ouer the City, and vpon them Stephen King of Poland incamped, when he besieged the City, which hath for defence very high wals on the same side. Vpon the North-side in a corner lies Altstat, betweene which and Furstat on the South-side, lies the chiefe City Reichstat, in the middest whereof is the aforesaid market place, and a publike armory; besides that great Ordinance is planted vpon the wals round about the City. I said that from this market place, the faire street Longgasse lieth to the gate Reichstat. Betweene Reichstat and Altstat, lie the foresaid two mils, to grinde corn, and saw boords, both (in my opinion) very rare. The City of Dantzke, from the Roman superstition, hath the same Saint for protector of their City, which England hath; namely, Saint George, whom they carry in their flags and banners. And by the way let me remember, that the state of Genea in Italy, and the Iland of Chios, vulgarly Zio, in the sea neere Constantinople, carry also the same Saint in their flagges. At Dantzke I paid fiuegrosh, a meale and being to passe into Poland, where good meat is not in all places to be had, I carried some prouision in the Coach, and paid for two hens fiue grosh, and for each measure of wine (all kinds being of like price) I paid ten grosh, which measure is called a stoope, and is somewhat bigger then the English guart.

The ninth of September, after the old stile (for the new stile is vsed in Poland,) I tooke

The ninth of September, after the old stile (for the new stile is vsed in Poland) I tooke my iourney to Crakaw, and we being foure consorts, hired a Coach for forty guldens. The first day in the morning we passed fiue miles in fiue houres space, through fruitfull hils of corne, and onely one wood, in that part of the Dukedome of Prussen, which belongs vnto the King of Poland, and came to the City Diersaw, by which the riuer Vistula runneth. After dinner we passed three miles, through a wood and a Fen, to the Village Zunzane, inhabited by Hollanders, who hauing dried the Fen, made the fields much more fruitfull. And from thence the same night hauing passed the riuer Vistula, we went halfe a mile to Gratenis, a City belonging to the Sborosky, a family of Gentlemen. The second day in the morning we went fiue miles, through a wood and fruitfull fields of corne, to a little Citty Colmersea, where that day was a meeting of the neighbour Gentlemen. If you except Crakaw, and the greater Cities, the building in these parts is poore, being of meere dirt in the Villages, and of timber and clay in the better townes, the houses being couered with straw, or tiles of wood, and the gentlemens houses be farre distant one from the other, and of no beauty. After dinner we went foure miles through fruitfull fields of corne, to the City Toarn. Hitherto we had giuen money to a Hollander, one of our consorts, for the paying of our expences, and now by his account each of vs had spent three guldens and a halfe, for he had prouided wine and such things which wee could not find in Villages, to be carried in our Coach. In this City we supped at an Ordinary, and fiue of vs paid two dollers. The riuer Vistula passeth by this City, and for passing the same by a bridge, wee paid for our Coach two grosh, and then entring Massouia, a Prouince of the Kingdome of Poland, the third day in the morning we passed three miles through a wood of firre, and one mile through corne fields, and I haue omitted what I paid for my dinner. In the afternoone wee passed three miles through a wild plaine, and woods of oake to Britzoll, where I likewise omitted my expences. The fourth day in the morning we passed fiue miles, through corne fields and woods of oake, to Quodonab, where I forgot my expence. I formerly said that foure of vs had hired a Coach from Dantzke to Crakaw, but the horses being but two, were extreamely weary; so as one of our company hauing a letter to take post horses (if so I may call poore iades) paying a grosh for each horse euery mile; which Letter is vulgarly called Podwoda-briefe. I was easily induced to leaue the Coach, and beare him company; and they telling vs that we had now passed more then halfe the way, we agreed so, as we two who left the Coach, should pay each of vs six guldens for the same. But the Hollander ouer-reached vs; for we had not gone halfe the way, and yet paid more then halfe the price which we should haue paid for the whole iourney. This done, we two drawne vpon a sledge, passed two miles through corne fieldes that afternoone to a poore Village, and paid for our passage two grosh. The fifth day in the morning hiring a countrey Waggon, and two horses at the same rate, we passed two miles through fields of hops, and sandy fields of corne, and two woods of firre, to Lonzchizcha, and from thence fiue miles through woods and sandy fields, to another village, and paid for our sledge halfe a grosh each mile, and for a horse for two miles sixe grosh, and for three miles seuen grosh. Here we inuited two Polackes to dinner, yet both together spent onely foure grosh and a halfe for vs and them, for we had ten egges for a grosh, and all other victuals very cheape. After dinner we hired two horses, and a Countrey Waggon for eight grosh, and passed foure miles through a stony way, and sandy fields of corne, to Peterkaw, where the King hath a Castle, and there we bought for our selues, flesh, bread, and beere, for our supper, at a very cheape rate, and giuing one grosh to the Hostesse for dressing our meat, and for butter and fier, shee was very well content with it. The sixth day in the morning we passed fiue miles, and in the afternoone two miles, with the same Waggon, for which wee paid seuen grosh, and the same horses, for which wee paid foureteene grosh. And we passed through woods of high firre trees, and some few fields of corne. Our meat we bought our selues, and as formerly our Hostesse dressed it, and we fetched our beere without doores. I remember wee paid three grosh for a goose, two for a partridge, two for a loyne of mutton, and three for a pigge. They sold a bushel of oates for two grosh, which at Thoarn they sold for six grosh. In these parts were great store of hop-yards. After dinner we passed three miles throgh woody hils, and corne fieldes, and paied for our horses and a country waggon twelue grosh.

The seuenth day in the morning, wee passed to a poore village foure miles, through fruitfull hils of corne, and many woods of firre, and one of oake, and vvee hired our country waggon with two horses, for fourteene grosh. Further wee went three miles to another village, through hils of corne, and a heath full of woods, and paied for one horse and a waggon, six grosh. After dinner we passed to a village three miles, through fruitfull hils of corne; and by the way we might see a stately Gentlemans house, and Gentlemen hawking in the fieldes: and I remember not in all my long trauell, euer to haue met hawkers or hunters in the fieldes, but onely heere, and once in Bohemia. In this village the King hath a Castle. The eight day, in the morning, we passed forward with the same horses and waggon, which we had in the afternoone before, and went two miles to Pnecho, and wee paied for our horses and waggon fifteene grosh, and gaue one to the waggoner. Here the King hath another faire Castle. From hence we passed two miles to a village, through mountaines and corne fields, and paied for two horses and a waggon foure grosh, and gaue to the waggoner procuring our horses one grosh.

The same day we went three miles, through little mountaines of corne, to Crakaw, and paied for two horses and a waggon six grosh. Heere wee lodged with the Crakaw. Fleming, consort of our iourney, and had our diet after the Dutch manner, and price. Fortified Cities, are very rare in Poland, they placing their strength in their swords and horsemen, rather then in walles. Of all the Cities, Crakaw is the chiefe, where the King and his Councell reside. It is seated in a plaine, hauing mountaines on all sides, but somewhat distant, and it is compassed with two walles of stone, and a dry ditch. The building is very faire, of free stone foure roofes hye, but couered with tiles of wood for the most part. It is of a round forme, but somewhat longer from the East to the West. In the midst of the City is a large market place quadrangular, wherein is the Cathedrall Church, and in the midst of the market place is the Senate house for the City, about which are many shops of Merchants. Vpon the East side of the City is the Kings Castle, seated on a hill; being faire, and high built, almost quadrangular, but somewhat more long then broad, and lying open on the South side, without any building aboue the wall. On the East side be the Chambersof the King and Queene, with galleries adioyning. On the North side is a faire gallery; some forty fiue walking paces long, where they vse to feast and dance. On the West side are the chambers of the Queene Dowager; from whence are priuate staires to the gate of the Castle; by which the French King, Henry the third, stole away secretly into France. On the same side is a Chappell, in the which the Kings are buried. Vpon the East side of this City, where this Castle is seated, lie foure suburbes; namely, the Iewes little City, and Cagmen, which is diuided by the riuer Vistula, from the other two, called Stradam and the Stewes. And Stradam belongs to the City, but the rest haue their own Magistrates and priuiledges. Towards the South and South-west, lies the suburb Garbatz, belonging to the City, which of late was burnt in the ciuill war, by the forces of Zamosky, one of the Palatines, and Chancellor of the Kingdome, defending the Election of Sigismund now King, against Maximilian of Austria, chosen King by another party. On the North side are the suburbs Biskop, and Clepart, which haue their owne Magistrates.

From hence being to take my iourney for Italy, I bought a horse for eighteene Guldens, and he that sold him, according to the manner there vsed, caused his bridle to be put on, and so by the same deliuered the horse into my hands. I paied fifteene grosh for a paire of shooes, fifty for a paire of boots, nine for spurs, two guldens and a halfe for a saddle, a gulden and a halfe for other furniture for my iourney, nine grosh for stirrups, eight grosh for foure horse shooes, and eight grosh for each bushell of oates. An Italian Gentleman being to returne into Italy, bought likewise a horse; and with this faire companion I tooke my iourney. The first day towards euening we rode two miles through fruitfull hills of corne, to a Country house, where I paied for my supper two grosh, for hay a grosh & a halfe, for a quarter of a bushel of oates, two grosh, and gaue to the Ostler halfe a grosh. The second day in the morning we rode three miles, through woods of firre, to a village, where I paied for my dinner two grosh, for hay halfe a grosh, for the third part of a bushell of oates a grosh and a halfe. After dinner we rode one mile and a halfe through a great wood, hauing the Mountaines of Hungary on our left hand, and passing the riuer Vistula, wee rode a mile through fenny fields, and woods of firre and beech, and came to a little Citie Opsenson, where I paid for my supper eight grosh, and for some three English pintes of wine fiue grosh, for beere a grosh and a halfe, for a third part of a bushell of oates, nine grosh, and for hay and straw a grosh and a halfe, and this City was subiect to a Gentleman of Poland.

The third day in the morning, wee rode three miles and a halfe, through fields somewhat ouerflowed, but fruitfull in corne, and a wood of firre, to Plesua, subiect to the Barrons of Promnitz, and seated in Silesia, a Prouince of the Dutch Empire; for after one miles riding we came out of Poland, into the said Prouince, which is subiect to the Emperour, as likewise Morauia is, by his right as hee is King of Bohemia: but in Silesia they speake Dutch, and Morauia hath his owne language, little differing from that of Bohemia. Also in our way we passed the riuer Vistula by boat, and another arme thereof by a bridge. Here the Barrons of Promnitz haue a Castle, wherein they reside; and here I paied for my dinner sixe grosh, for beere one, for hay and a third part of a bushel of oates two grosh, and for a measure of wine (somewhat bigger then the English quart) ten grosh. After dinner we rode two miles, through fruitfull fields of corne, to a little City subiect to the Emperour, (not by large subiection, but proper right to all the Reuenewes of that Territory) as he is King of Bohemia: and I paied for supper three grosh, for a third part of a bushell of oates with hay and straw fiue grosh. The fourth day we rode two miles in the morning, being now entred into Morauia, where the miles are exceeding long, as they be in Bohemia: and we passed through most fruitful hils of corne, and some woods, and came to a little village, seated a little beyond the City Freestat, belonging to the Dukes of Tesch, and here I paied for my dinner three grosh, and as much for my horse-meat. After dinner we rodetwo miles through hils and mountaines, fruitfull of corne, and some woods of oakes: for Morauia is a pleasant Countrey, very fruitfull, and full of townes and villages; and wee came to Ostrenam, where I paied for my supper three grosh, for beere two, for my horse-meat foure and a halfe. The fift day in the morning we rode three miles, through fruitfull hils of corne to the village Boteuisa; being very pleasant and full of orchards, and subiect to a Gentleman of that Countrey. By the way we passed on horse-backe two armes of the riuer Odera, which hath his head three miles distant. Heere wee dined with the Preacher (or Minister) of the Towne, because the Hoste of the Inne was newly dead; & I paied for my dinner foure grosh, for beere one grosh, and for horse-meat two grosh. Afterdinner we rode two miles, through most fruitfull hils of corne, to a pleasant village (as all Morauia is pleasant and fertile) and I paied for my supper fiue grosh, and foure for my horse meat. The sixth day in the morning we rode three miles, through fruitful hils of corne, hauing woody Mountaines on both hands; and in the midst of the way, passed by the City Granitz, and came to Leipny. The Cities in these parts are built with Arches halfe ouer the streets, so as in the greatest raine, a man may passe in the streets vnder them with a dry foot, and such is the building of this little City, where in some thirty families of Iewes did dwell. Here I paied for my dinner foure grosh, and for my horse-meat two grosh (hitherto I meane groshes of Poland) After dinner we rode a mile and a halfe in a paued way, with corne fields on both hands, to the City Speron; where I paied for my supper fiue grosh, (I meane now, and hereafter groshes of Morauia,) and for my horse-meat three grosh: and here I paied for an Orange two grosh. In this iourney through Poland, and from Cracaw to this place, we had heere the first bed, hauing before lodged vpon benches in a warme stoue. The seuenth day in the morning, wee rode two very long miles, through most fruitfull hils of corne, & rich pastures, to a village, hauing by the way passed by the Citie of Creitzon (wherein many Iewes dwelt) & by very many villages: and here I paied for my dinner three grosh, & for my horse-meat one grosh, for a measure of wine like an English pint, three creitzers After dinner we rode a mile and a halfe, through most fruitfull hils of corne, to a place called, The Iewes village, beyond the Episcopall City Vascon, and I paied for my supper two grosh, and for my horse-meat three grosh and a halfe. The eight day in the morning wee rode two miles, going much out of our way, and passed through most fruitfull hils of corne, and pleasant vineyards, to Nimsich, and I paied for my dinner foure grosh, for my horse-meat one grosh and a halfe. After dinner we rode halfe a mile, through hils planted with vines, to Tracht, and I paied for my supper six grosh, for my horse-meat two and a halfe, and for beere to wash my horses feet, six creitzers.

The ninth day in the morning, wee rode foure miles to a village, through hils of corne, and in the mid way were the confines of Morania, and of Austria into which we now entred. Here I paied for my dinner fourteene creitzers, and three for my horse-meat. The vintage being now at hand, when wee came from our Innes in the morning, wee vsed to carry bread with vs, and so to breake our fast with bunches of grapes gathered by the way. After dinner we rode two miles, through hils and mountaines most fruitfull of corne and wine, to Pasdorffe, and I paied for my supper eighteene creitzers, and nine for my horse-meat. The tenth day in the morning we rode two miles and a halfe; through hils of corne, and many woods, to a village, not farre from Vlrich-kirke, aud here I omitted my expence.

After dinner we rode two miles and a halfe through a very large plaine, fruitfull of corne and pasture, with many pleasant woods, and compassed round about with mountaines, and came to Vienna, vulgarly called Wien. Neere the City on the North side the riuer Danow runneth by, from the East to the West, three armes whereof close Vienna. together (with some ground betweene, which many times is ouerflowed) wee passed by three bridges, whereof one hath twenty nine arches, the other fifty seuen, and the third fifteene, each of those arches being some eighteene walking paces long. Betweene the second bridge, and the third next to the City, is a pleasant groue, and good part of the ground vnder the bridges is many times dry; but when the riuer riseth, it doth not only fill the all beds, but ouerfloweth the fields on both sides. At the gate of Wien, each man paid for his horse two pochanels; and when wee came to the Inne, the Hoste sent our names written to the Magistrate. Wien the metropolitan City of Austria, is a famous Fort against the Turkes, vpon the confines of Austria, which if they should once gaine, their horse-men might suddenly spoile the open Countries of Bohemia, and Morauta, and good part of Salesia. The Citie is of a round forme, and vpon the North side there is an ascent to it vpon a hil, otherwise without the wals on all sides the ground is plaine, except the West side, where mountaines lie a good distance from the City, and vpon that side the Sultan of the Turkes incamped, vpon the hils neere the gallowes, when in the time of the Emperour Rodulphua, hee besieged the City, or rather came to view it, with purpose to besiege it the next summer. The streets are narrow, but the building is stately, of free stone. Two Towers of the Church are curiously ingrauen, the like whereof is not in Germany, except the Tower or steeple of Strashurg. The common report is, that two chiefe workemen had great emulation in building them; and that one hauing finished his Tower, found meanes to breake the necke of the other, lest his workemanship should excel that he had done. One of the Towers some three yeeres past, was shaken with an earth-quake, and indeed the houses of this City are many times shaken therewith, and they haue a Prophecy of old, that this City shall be destroied with an earth quake. It is dangerous to walke the streetes in the night, for the great number of disordered people, which are easily found vpon any confines, especially where such an army lieth neere, as that of Hungary, gouerned by no strict discipline. Ernest as and Mathias, Arch-dukes of Austria, and brothers to the Emperour Rodulphus, did at this time lie here, both in one house, and did eat at one table, and in the time of their meales, it was free for strangers and others to come into the roome. I staied three daies a Wien to ease my weary horse, and I paid each meale twenty foure creitzers, for oates the day and night eighteene, and in like sort for hay six creitzers.

From hence we tooke our iourney for Paduoa in Italy, and the first day after dinner werode six miles, in a plaine of vineyards, pastures, and corne fields, with some woods, to a village, where I paid fifteene creitzers for my supper, and eight for my horse. The next day in the morning we rode foure miles, through a wild plaine, by the City Newstat, and not farre thence came to Newkirke, where I paid twenty foure creitzers for my dinner, foure for my horse, and twelue for a measure of wine, like our English quart. Henceforward we had no more beere, but onely wine set on the table. After dinner we rode three miles through woods and mountaines, planted with vines, and a rich valley of pasture and corne, all in a stony soyle, to Schwatzen. I obserued that the horses we met laded with wine, had their noses couered, which they said was done, lest they should be ouercome with the vapour thereof: This City is seated betweene most high mountaines, in a narrow streight, hewen out of a Rocke, and shut vp with a wall of stone. Here I paid for my supper twenty creitzers, and for drinking after supper (vulgarly schlaffdruncke, that is, sleeping drinke) sixe creitzers, and for the fourth part of a bushell of oates, nine creitzers (which before we had for foure creitzers and a halfe) and for hey and straw three creitzers. The third day in the morning we rode two miles, through wooddy mountaines, the ascent of one of them being halfe a mile, and through rich pastures, to Mor thusly, and I paid for my dinner eighteene creitzers, and for my horse-meat fiue creitzers, oates being deerer here then before. This day neere Spitle we passed out of Austria into Styria. After dinner we rode two miles, through wooddy mountaines, yeelding good pastures, to a village, where I paid for my supper twenty foure creitzers, and twelue for my horse-meat. The fourth day in the morning we rode foure miles, through mountaines with pasture and woods, and valleies of corne, to the City Brucke, where I paid for my dinner fifteene creitzers, for my horse-meat fiue creitzers, the third part of a bushell of oates being here sold for twenty foure creitzers. After dinner we rode in like way two miles, to the City Lowen, and I paid for my supper fifteene creitzers, for three little measures and a halfe of oates, foureteene creitzers, for stable three creitzers, and foure for dregs of wine to wash my horses feet. The fifth day in the morning we rode two miles in like way to a village, where I paid nine creitzers for my dinner, and foure for my horse meat. After dinner we rode in the like way, and ouer mountaines couered with snow, three miles and a halfe, to a village, not farre from which, Charles of Gratz, Arch-duke of Austria, (vncle by the Father side to the Emperour Rodulphus, and Father to the Queene of Poland, lately maried to King Sigismond,) was of late buried in a Monastery neere Knettelfeld. In this village I paid foureteene creitzers for my supper, and twelue for my horse-meat. The sixth day in the morning we rode one mile in like way, to Iudenburg, that is, the City of the Iewes, and I paid foureteene creitzers for breakefast. Then we rode fiue miles in a stony way, through high mountaines, to Newen-markt, and I paid eighteene creitzers for my supper, and fifteene for my horse-meat. In this Countrey of Styria, many men and weomen haue great wens hanging downe their throats, by drinking the waters that run through the mines of mettals.

The seuenth day in the morning we rode two miles to the confines of Styria, and entring Carinthia, passed by the City Freysacke, in which was a faire and strong Castle, seated vpon a high mountaine, and so wee passed one mile further to a village, all our way hauing beene very troublesome by reason of the stony mountaines, and narrow passages, we hauing a coach in our company. Heere I paied twenty foure creitzers for my dinner, and fourteene for my horse-meat. After dinner wee rode two miles in a plaine compassed with mountaines, to Sternfield; where I paied ninteene creitzers for my supper, and sixteene for my horse-meat. The eight day in the morning we rode one mile, through a fruitfull plaine of corne, to a pleasant City, Saint Voyte. As in Styria, so here in Carinthia, the men and women haue great wens vpon their throats, with drinking the waters that passe the Mines. Heere I paied for my dinner and supper forty eight creitzers, and twenty foure for my horse-meat, for we staid here to rest our horses, and every day we tooke shorter iournies, because wee had a Coach in our company, which could hardly passe the streights and stony waies of the Alpes, and in no other part of the Alpes, they vse at any time to passe with Coaches, but here very seldome, in respect of the ill way. The ninth day we rode three miles, through a fruitful plaine of corne, to Feldkirken, where I paid nine creitzers for my dinner, and foure for my horse-meat. After dinner we rode about two miles, by the side of a lake on our left hand towards the South, beyond which lake Boleslaus King of Poland lies buried in a Monasbery, who hauing killed a Bishop, warning him to amend his life, did vpon his owne free will doe penance there, taking the habit of a Monke, and seruing in the same Cloyster, as a lay brother to warme stoues: but the Polackes say, that the body of the dead Bishop did many miracles, whereupon with great expence of treasure, they of late obtained at Rome, to haue him made a Saint. And so we came to a village where I paid twenty creitzers for my supper, thirteene for my horse-meat, and eight for drinke after supper. The tenth day in the morning we rode about a mile, through high and rocky mountaines, to the City Villake, by which the Riuer Draw runneth, and here I omitted my expences. After dinner we rode three miles, through high and rocky mountaines, and a narrow way; and our Coachman by the way shewed vs vppon the left hand towards the South, a Castle, which of old belonging to the Gouernours of the Prouince, was now demolished, and because money receiued of the Turkes for treason, was hidden here, they say that euer since ill spirits walke in that place.

In the villages of Carinthia (being a Prouince of the Dutch Empire) the Countrey people speake Wendish, or the tongue of the old Vandals, which I haue like wise heard to be vsed in villages neere Angsburg, and neere Witteberg in Saxony, and vpon the shoare of the Balticke sea in Pomern, and Meckleburge, so as it seemes, that barbarous nation, though scattered and loosing their name, yet still liueth in those places.

So we came to Altaporta, that is High gate, where I omitted my expences. The eleuenth day in the morning wee rode a mile, through high mountaines and rocky, and a narrow way to the village Trenise, where the Dutchmen shewed a pasport, and we all had a like pasport giuen vs from the Emperour his Officers, which we were to deliuer to the Venetian Officers at Pontena, left either for suspition of infectuous sicknes, or any other cause, they should not permit vs to enter into Italy. In the said village I paid fifteene creitzers for my dinner, and fiue for my horse-meat.

After dinner we rode two miles, in a stony way betweene mountaines, to Pontena, which the Dutch call Pontafell, and by the way there was a wall of stone betweene the mountaines, and a village called Chiusa, where there was a gate, shutting vp the high way, vpon which was written in Italian.

The Contarini are a family of Gentlemen in Venice. Here the Venetian souldiers keeping this passage, required a beneuolence of vs, which we willingly gaue, and out companions paid foure Venetian lires for the foure horses in their Coach, but wee that were horsemen paid no tribute. Here we had another passe-port to be shewed at Venzona. I paid at Pontena thirty sols of Venice for my supper, thirty fiue for oates, and ten for hey.

And giue me leaue to remember, that I hauing for the cold at Dantzke, in the beginning of September, put on a woollen wasecoat, was forced now at the entring of Italy, for great heat in the end of October, to put off the same.

The twelfth day in the morning wee rode foure miles (meaning Dutch miles, though wee be now entered into Italy, because my Dutch companions so reckoned them.) We now had entred the Italian Prouince Frioly, which the Latines call Forum Iulij; because the Legions vsed to be sent from hence ouer the Alpes, & the Venetians call Patria, that is country; because the Venetians fled from hence, into the Lakes of Venice, when Attila King of the Huns inuaded Italy, by this name acknowledging it to be their country, from whence they originally came. Aquilegia the seat of the Patriarkes, destroyed by Attila, was of old famous; but the Venetians by the Popes fauour, haue drawne the Patriarkes seat to Venice. By the way wee passed seuen branches of the Riuer Tagliamonti on horse-backe without boats, the streame being so violent by the waters falling from the mountaines, that it dazels the eyes, if the passenger looke vpon the water; for which cause wee passed warily, turning our eyes from the water, and hauing guidespassing before vs, to try and shew vs the Fordes. By the way vpon a bridge, this was written in Latine:

For the carrying ouer of Dutch merchandize, by the streames of Ledra, S. S. President of the Prouince, speedily built this Bridge.

So wee came through a plaine somewhat wilde, or lesse fruitfull, to Spilenburg; where I paied twenty one sols for my dinner, eight for oats, and foure for hay. After dinner we rode two Dutch miles, through wild stony fields, to Sanuocate, where I paid thirty sols for my supper, thirty two for oats, and ten for hay. The thirteenth day in the morning, we rode three Dutch, or fourteen Italian miles; through wilde grounds, and stony fields of corne, and neere our iournies end, by many Orchardes and Vineyards, to Konian, where I omitted my expence. By the way wee met a Gentleman, in his coach drawne with oxen. After dinner wee rode two Dutch, or eight Italian miles, and in a wilde field, passed two branches of a riuer by a boat, in which we sate on horse-backe; and we paied sixteene sols for our passage, and thence wee came to a village, where I paied forty sols for my supper, twenty three for oats, and ten for hay. And comming hither on All-soules euening, which they keepe with great superstition, wee could not sleepe for little bels tinckling all night. The fourteenth day in the morning, we rode six Italian miles, through fruitfull hils of corne, and by pleasant Vineyards, to Treuigi, a City little in circuit, but fortified, and built of bricke, with arches hanging ouer the streets, vnder which men walke dry in the greatest raine, where I haue omitted my expences.

After breakefast we rode twenty two Italian miles, through a most pleasant plain, in which we passed ouer a riuer, and came to Paduoa. Here I sold my horse for twenty Paduoa. siluer crownes, which I bought at Crakaw for eighteene guldens; and by the way, I might haue sold him for twenty six crownes or more, and from the place where I sold him, might easily haue hired a coach or horses to Paduoa, but my foolish hope to sell him deerer, and desire to saue the charge of hiring a coach, or horse, kept me from selling him by the way, whereof I repented when I came to Paduoa, where horsemeat was very deere, and the horse-coarsers finding that I must needs sell him, agreed among themselues, so craftily, sending mee euery day new buyers, to offer mee lesse then before they had offered, as when I had kept him fourteene dayes, I must haue beene forced to sell my horse at their price, if I had not found an English Gentleman by chance, who returning into Germany, gaue mee twenty crownes for my horse. I staied all this winter at Paduoa, in which famous Vniuersity I desired to perfect my Italian tongue, where a Student may haue his table at an Ordinary (vulgarly a la dozena) and his chamber for eight, or at most, for tenne siluer crownes the month: but few liue after this fashion, saue the Dutch, and strangers new arriued, and hauing not yet got the language; but rather they hire a chamber, which is to be had for a zechine, or tenne lires the month, or at a lower rate, the Hostesse being to finde linnen, and dresse the meat you buy. My Hoste had a large house, with a faire court, hired yeerly for forty crownes, and with him, my selfe and some Dutch men lodged, each hauing his chamber and plentifull diet, for eight siluer crownes the month.

When I went to Venice, I lodged with an Hostesse, an old widow, which had a house like a Pallace; for which, she paied two hundred crownes yeerely, and there I paied for a chamber foure siluer crownes by the month, euery man there buying meat at his pleasure, which the Hostesse dresseth; and findes linnen.

But that the price of things may better appeare, it will not be amisse particularly to set some prices downe for both Cities; for howsoeuer strangers spend more in Venice, then in Padnoa; yet that is not by reason of diet, but for the greater price of chambers, and extraordinary inticements to spend. The prices I will briefly set downe, in some few particulars, because in the due place treating of diet, I am to speake more largely thereof. It is the fashion of Italy, that onely men, and the Masters of the family, goe into the market and buy victuals, for seruants are neuer sent to that purpose, much lesse weomen, which if they be chast, rather are locked vp at home, as it were in prison. Againe, the small coines of brasse, are very helpefull to the poore, all victuals being sold in small portions, according to the smallest money, yea, the very spices, which in the shoppes are put vp in papers, ready beaten, according to greater or the very least coynes. The Italians are sparing in diet, but particularly at Padnoa, the markets abound rather with variety, then quantities of meat. Some hundreds of turkies hang out to be sold, for six or seuen lires each, according to the goodnes. And this territory yeelding better corn then other parts, they haue very white bread, light, & pleasant in tast, especially that which is called Pan-buffetto. I remember I bought a pound of mutton for fiue sols and a halfe, of veale for eight, of porke for eight, a fat hen for two lires, eight little birds for six sols, a great and fat pigeon for two lires, a pullet for thirty fiue, and sometime forty sols, an Eele after ten sols the pound, kreuises the pound three, and sometimes six sols, a pike the pound seuen or eight sols, round cockles the hundred three sols, the longe, which we call rasers, the hundreth twenty sols, the skalops which they call holy cockels, twelue for a lire, Cheuerns the pound foure sols, a plaise sixe sols, tenches the pound eight sols, sawsages the pound ten sols, sixe egges eight sols, butter the pound foureteene sols, piacentine cheese the pound six sols, and parmesan the pound ten or twelue sols, a measure of salt for the table foure sols, rice the pound three sols, ten snailes foure sols, apples the pound two sols, peares & wardens the pound foure sols, chesnuts the pound three sols, dry grapes the pound two sols, sometimes three; almonds the pound fiue sols, six orenges for one gaget, a pomegranat one sol, oyle the pound ten sols, a secchio of wine thirty fiue sols, or the pound thereof eight sols, waxe candles the ounce two sols, and ten small waxe candles twenty two sols, other candles the pound sixteene sols, or foureteene if they be little, a quire of writing paper fiue sols. The Hostesse dresseth your meat in the bargaine for your chamber, and findes you napkins, tableclothes, sheetes, and towels; and either in your chest or her owne, will lay vp the meat, and very bread you leaue, more prouidently then any of our parts would require; and little boyes attend in the market places with baskets, who for a soll will carry home the meat you buy; and dare not deceiue you though you goe not with them. I paid to my taylor for making a cloake foure lires, and for my doublet and hose eight lites; to my laundresse for making a shirt a lire, that is, twenty sols; for washing it two sols; and for washing foure handkerchers one sol. And this shall suffice for particular expences.

The City Paduoa, was built by Antenor a Troian, and the Heneti driuen out of their Countrey, ioined themselues to these Troians. These with ioint force droue out the Euganei from the fertile Euganean hils neere Paduoa, where Hereules left them, and these Heneti gaue to their posterity the name of Venetians, to whom the Colonies of Tuscany ioined themselues, then the French subdued all this Prouince, till at last they subiected themselues to the Romans, and were made Citizens of Rome. The Roman Empire declining, the Visigothes vnder Alaricus droue the chiefe Citizens of Paduoa, into the lakes of Venice. Then Attila King of the Hunnes spoiled Paduoa, and the Longobards burnt it, which being rebuilt, and flourishing vnder the German Emperors, Acciolinus vsurped the gouernement thereof, in the yeere 1237. But Pope Alexander the fourth helped by the Venetians, restored it to liberty in the yeere 1257. In the faction of the Guelphes & Gibellines, Paduoa then & from that time hath bin subiect to many Princes of the Scaligers, & Cararrians, til about the yeere 1402. the Venetians tooke the City, which they held to the yeere 1509. when the French King Lewis made them yeeld to the Emperour; but the Venetians after two moneths recouered it, and to this day it is subiect to them, who send a Magistrate called Podesta, euery fifteene moneths to gouerne it. Some say Paduoa was first called Antenoria (as the Heneti gaue the name of Venice to the Countrey) till after Antenors death, the Heneti called it Paduoa, of a City in their Countrey whence they were driuen. Others say it hath the name from a Greeke word, vpon the flying of Swannes: others say it is so called of the riuer Po, called in Latine Padus, or of the territory lying beyond the Po, the Riuer giuing name to the territory, and that to the City. Before it was destroied by Attila, it was seated on the East-side of the Riuer Medoacus, but after it was built on the other side, in a fenny soyle, where now the market place is, but since it hath beene inlarged on both sides the water, being without the outmost wals seuen miles compasse, and of a triangular forme, as it seemed to me. The first angle is on the North-side, where is the Monastery of the Hermites of Saint Augustine, and the stately Pallace Areno, in which the French King Henry the third was lodged, when hee returned from Poland into France. The second angle is towards the East; where is the gate at which they take water to passe vpon the Riuer Brenta to Venice. The third angle is towards the South, where is the monastery Santo, called of Saint Anthony of Lisbon, and the monastery of Saint Iustina. And these angles taken away, the old City is round. On the West-side vpon the wals, is built the old Pallace of the old City. Paduoa is seated in a sweet plain, hauing no trees neere the City. Of old the wall was triple, and now it is double. The inner wall is some three miles in compasse; and is very high hauing a walke vpon it round about, with pleasant shade of trees, where Gentlemen vse to play at the balloone. This wall compassed round with the Brent, hath foureteene gates, with as many bridges of stone. The riuer Brent likewise compasseth the outward wall, which is about seuen miles compasse, and hath six stately gates, but this wall is nothing so strong as the other. The Riuer Athesis diuides the territory of Paduoa, from that of Uerona, and the riuer Po diuides it from that of Ferrara.

Two riuers of old called Medonci, enter the City; the greater at this day called Brenta, falling from the Alpes, with the right hand branch, runneth to Paduoa, and with the left hand branch to Rosta, and diuiding againe into two branches, one by the dirch Brentella is carried to Paduoa, the greater takes the name Bachilio, and neere to the wals of Paduoa, receiues the waters of Brentella, increased with a branch of Brenta. These Riuers enter the City, and with diuers channels driue many mils, compasse the wals, and not onely make the fields fertile, but serue to carry all commodities (abounding here) from hence to Venice, and to bring from thence such things as they want, and besides doe cleanse all filth of the stables and priuies.

The aire at Paduoa is very healthfull, and the building is with arches of stone, hanging ouer the streets, vnder which they walke dry in the greatest raine; but the streetes are thereby made narrow, and in the middest are dirty. There be fiue market places: in the first the Gentlemen and Students meet and walke: in the second herbes are sold, in the third corne: in the fourth wood, and in the fifth straw. The aforesaid monastery of Saint Anthony, is inhabited by Franciscan Friars, and is much fairer then any other religious house; the Church whereof was of old dedicated to Iuno, and after to the Virgin Mary; and at last to Saint Anthony. The pauement thereof is of marble, and the building very stately, hauing in the top seuen globes couered with lead, and three high towers. The Chappell wherein St Anthony lies, is all of marble, & round about it the miracles are engrauen, which they attribute to this Saint: at whose feast day they vse to present for great gifts the hallowed girdles of this St, which they tie about their loyns, and attribute strange effects thereunto. Here is a statua of marble, erected to Peter Bembus; and in the large yard there is a horse-mans statua of brasse, which the Senate of Venice erected to Gatta Melata. In the Church of Franciscan Minorites, there is a statua erected to Roctha Benello, a Physitian, sitting in his chaire. In the aforesaid monastery of Saint Iustina, the order of Saint Benedict was first established, and from thence dispersed into Italy, and the Church thereof was of old dedicated to Concord, and after being made the Bishops Church, was endowed with great rents. These Monkes haue a blacke habit, and in the Church they shew the reliques of the Martyr Saint Iustina, of Saint Prosdosimus a Greeke, (who is said to haue beene Saint Peters Disciple, and to haue conuerted Paduoa, and to haue baptised Saint Iustina, when shee suffered Martyrdome) and likewise of Saint Maximus (both Bishops, and protecting Saints of the City,) as also of Saint Luke the Euangelist, brought by Vrius a Monke from Constantinople; but the Venetians say the reliques of Saint Luke are with them. Biondus writeth, that here was a Church dedicated to Iupiter, and the sepulcher of Titus Liuius. In the first court yard of this Monastery, the incredible miracles of Saint Benedict are painted. In the second I found this Epitaph:

A large and pleasant meadow lies before this Monastery. There is another of the Benedictines in this City, but those Friers weare a white habit, & liue with more seuere rules. In the Monastery of Saint Augustines Hermits, before named, are the sepulchers of the Princes of the family Carraria. The Cathedrall Church was of old Magnificall, and to this day hath twelue Churches vnder it within the City. The Marble chest containing Autenors bones, being found when the foundation of the Almes-house was digged, was then brought to the Church of Saint Laurence; wherein was found a guilded sword, and Latine verses in a barbarous stile, shewing that the Letter A, should be fatall to the City; vvhich they say haue proued to true by Attila, Agilulsus, Accidanus, Ansedissus and Albertus: vnder vvhom the City vvas much afflicted. This chest is erected vpon Marble pillers at the doore of the Church, and vpon the wall these verses are written in Latine:

Another Epitaph of the same Antenor, seemes lately written by the very name of the City, and sauoureth a Transalpine wit, giuing small credit to Liuy, or their fabulous Antiquities:

The Monument of the Troian horse of wood, is kept in the Pallace of the Capilist family, whereupon they are called the Capilists of the horse. There bee eighteene Cloysters of Nunnes in the City, and two of repenting or illuminate women, so they call whores entring Cloysters. About the middest of the City is a faire Pallace, where the Venetian Podesta or gouernour dwels, the gallery whereof (in which hee sitteth to iudge causes) is very large, and hath a high arched roofe hanging by Art, not sustained by many pillers, and the same is couered with lead, and adorned with many pictures of the famous Painter Zoto, and the length thereof is one hundred forty walking paces, the breadth forty three paces. There is the Statua of Iulius Paulus, Doctor of Ciuill Law, and of Peter Aponensis, or, d'Abano; and of Titus Liuius, and of Albertuo the Hermitan, placed ouer the foure dores. At the West end of this gallery, is a Monument of Titus Liuius the Historian carued within the wall, and these verses are written vpon the wall in Latine:

This Titus Liuius died in the fourth yeere of the Empire of Tiberim Caesar, and in the sixty six yeere of his age. Not farre from this Monument stands a brazen Image of the same Liuy, with this inscription in Latine:

The bones of Titus Liuy of Paduoa, by all mortall mens consent worthy, by whose penne truely inuincible, the Acts of the inuincible Roman people should be written.

Besides, they shew in the City Titus Liuius his house. And this Monument, orthese bones of him were brought thither from the Monastery of Saint Iustina. The Court where the Senate meetes, lieth neere to the said gallery of this Pallace; where there is astone, which they call the stone of Turpitude, (that is, filthines or disgrace:) whereupon debtors, which disclaim the hauing of goods to pay their debts, do sit with their hinder parts bare; that with this note of disgrace, others may be terrified from borrow ing more then they can pay. They haue a Pest-house called Lazaretto, & two like houses for Lepers, and one Alsmes-house for the poore strangers, another for Orphanes, and a third for children cast out, or left in the streets. Neere the Church of Saint Luria, there is a Well, called the Diuels Well; which they say was brought into the street by Art Magick, out of the court-yard of a Gentleman, denying water to his neighbours. This City hath little trafficke, though it lies very fit for the same, because the Venetians draw it all to themselues.

But Gentlemen of all Nations come thither in great numbers, by reason of the famous Vniuersity, which the Emperour Frederick the second, being offended with the City of Bologna, planted herein the yeere 1222, or there abouts, some comming to study the ciuill Law, other the Mathemetickes, & Musick, others to ride, to practise the Art of Fencing, and the excercises of dancing and actiuity, vnder mostskilful professors of those Arts, drawn hither by the same reason. And Students haue here great, if not to great liberty & priuiledges, so as men-slaiers are only punished with banishment, which is a great mischiefe, and makes strangers liue there in great iealousie of treason to be practised against their liues. The Schoole where the professors of liberall Sciences teach, is seated ouer against Saint Martins Church, and was of old a publike Inne, hauing the signe of an Axe, which name it still retaineth. The promotion of degrees is taken in the Bishops hall, neere the Cathedrall Church, and the Doctors are made in the chiefe Church. And there bee eight Colledges built for poore Students of seuerall Prouinces.

The Athestine family of the Dukes of Ferrara, and the Honorian family, of the tyrant Acciolinus, and the Carrarian family of their owne Princes, had their beginning in this City, as they write. And they doe no lesse triumph of diuers Citizens borne heere, namely Marsilius, Mamerdinus a Minorite who being a Diuine, wrote learnedly in the yeere 1329, of the power of the Pope and Emperour, defending the maiesty of the Emperour against the Pope: and Iulius Paulus a ciuill Lawyer, Disciple to Papinius, and liuing in the time of Titus Liuius; and Francis Zabarella a ciuill Lawyer, dying in the yeere 1417, and Peter D'Abano a Physician and Astrologer, dying in the yeere 1312: whose body being to bee burnt for suspicion of his being a coniurer, his Concubine buried, but his picture and his bookes were burnt by the Emperors command: and Michael Sauonarola a Physitian, and Titus Liuius a famous Historian: And Lucius Aruntius Stella, and Caius Valerius Flaccus, all Poets celebrated by Martiall: and Augelus Beoleus a Stage-player of wonderfull elocution, dying in the yeere 1542, and Thraseas Peto a famous Souldier, hated by Nero: and Andreas Mantinia, the best Painter of his age, being knighted, and dying about the yeere 1517, and Augustinus Zoto a Painter, with other famous men.

DEferring the view of Rome till my returne, I thought best to passe on presently to Naples, lest if I had staid longer, I might perhaps haue beene betraied into the hands of the Spaniards when I should come thither, for that Kingdome is subiect to the Spaniards, with whom the English then had warre: besides that in like cases, delay brecds danger; into which if I should haue fallen, I hoped to escape with more ease and contentment, when I had beene at the furthest of my iourney. Therefore according to the fashion, I agreed with a Vetturine at Rome, for forty foure Giulij to giue me a horse to Naples, and to pay for my diet and horsemeat. I say it is the fashion, especially in waies of danger and trouble to get meat, that passengers should agree with their Vetturine for their diet; which if they doe not, they shall be subiect to the fraud of Hosts, in such a iourney, and hardly get so good meat as they, who daily passing, are well acquainted in all places. And in this tumultuary iourney to Naples, it is most of all necessary for strangers thus to agree with their Vetturine, since the Hosts are great extorters from all men, and especially from strangers; and it would be difficult for strangers not knowing the fashion of that hasty iourney and of the Country, to prouide for themselues. When we went out of Rome, our consorts suddenly in a broad street lighted from their horses, and gaue them to the Vetturines to hold, and so went themselues to the Holy staires, vulgarly called Le scale sante, that they might there pray for a happy iourney; at which time my selfe and my consorts slipped into the next Church, and going in at one doore, and out at the other, escaped the worshipping of those holy staires, and at fit time came to take our horses with the rest. They say that these staires were the same which Christ ascended in Pilates house at Ierusalem; and that they were from thence brought to Rome: and indeed at Ierusalem the place of them lies void, so as I would in this mnch rather beleeue the Romans, then in the transportation of the Chamber at Lareto, which they would haue done by the Angels, and that often and at vnseasonable times, whereas in so many voyages into Palestine it was not difficult to bring these staires from thence. Yet they being of marble, and very rich, I would faine know how such a monument could be preserued, when Ierusalem was destroied. And if they say they belonged to that house of Pilate, which they shew at this day, I dare be bold to affirme that the magnificence of these staires is nothing answerable to the poore building of that house.

The twelfth of March we rode twelue miles to Marino, a Castle belonging to the Roman Family of Colonna, and we passed through a fruitfull plaine of corne, hauing on our right hand towards the South, the ruines of old Rome, and the Castle Tusculo, where Cicero wrote his Tuseulane questions, not farre from Palestrina, of old called Preneste, where Marius besieged by Scylla, killed himself, & we might often see the Tyrrhene sea: and hauing vpon our left hand towards the North, an anticke conduit, made of bricke, lying all the length of the way from Rome to the Easterne mountaines, in which Marino is seated, and from whence the water was so farre brought to Rome, and vpon the same side hauing a new conduit built by Pope Sixtus the fifth, when the pipes of the other were broken: but the same is much lower and lesse magnificent then the other, and vpon this hand we had mountaines not farre distant. Marino was of old called Marianavilla, and from this Castle the mountaines which by the way we had on our left hand toward the North, crosse ouer to the Tyrrhene sea, towards the South, shutting vp the large plaine from Rome hither. And these mountaines planted with vines, and hauing a sweet prospect into the same plaine, are very pleasant. Whereupon there be very many Pallaces of Roman Senators built vpon these mountaines, which lying high, of the fresh aire, vulgarly this place is called La Frescada. Among these mountaines in the Village Tiuoli, the deceased Cardinall Hipolito of Este, built a Pallace and a wonderfull garden, which being ten mile distant from the City of Rome, the passengers for the most part hauing scene Rome, did in the Cardinals time, and yet many times doe passe that way. For it resembles a terrestriall Paradice, by reason of the fountaines, statuaes, caues, groues, fishponds, cages of birds, Nightingales flying loose in the groues, and the most pleasant prospect. In this Castle Marino we made some stay, to expect some passengers which were longer detained at Rome by their businesse.

And the Pope in this place giues sixty Horsemen Musqueters to accompany the Carrier, vulgarly called Il Procaccia, and to defend him from the spoyling of banished men, vulgarly called Banditi. And for this cause all passengers goe in this Carriers company, neither dare any passe alone. For these banished men lurking vpon the confines of the Popes State and the Kingdome of Naples, many times make excursions as farre as these mountaines, to doe robberies, and the weeke last past they had killed many passengers, and had robbed the Carrier, who doth not onely beare letters, but leades many Mules laded with goods. The chiefe of these banished men was the Nephew (so they call Church-mens bastards) of the Cardinall Caietano, who hauing eight thousand crownes yeerely reut in these parts, was banished by the Pope, and he vnderstanding that a Roman Gentleman passed with that Carrier, who had great friends about the Pope, and hoping to make his peace by taking him prisoner, did for that cause assaile that Carrier and his guard, till hearing that the Gentleman while they fought, had escaped to the next City, he withdrew himselfe & his men into the mountainrs. This danger from banished men, makes the iourney to Naples very trouble. some; and it is not safe nor lawful for any man to leaue the company of this Carrier. So as the passengers rise before day, and take horse, and so sitting all the day, yet ride not abouc twenty miles, for the slow pace of the mules, and at noone they haue no rest, onely when they haue the Inne in sight, so as there is no danger of theeues, they are permitted to gallop before, that they may eat a morsell, or rather deuoure it: for as soone as the mules are past, they must to horse againe, euery man not onely making hast for his owne safety, but the souldiers forcing them to be gone, who are more slow then the rest. To conclude the mules going a very slow pace, it was very irkesome to the passengers to rise before day, and to follow them step by step.

Hauing dined at Marino, and our full company being come, we together with our guard of horse-men rode eight miles to Velitri, through wooddy mountaines, infamous for the robberies of banished men, and vpon our right hand towards the South and towards the Tyrrhene sea, was a Lake vulgarly called Lago Nympao, which the old Romans (delighted with doing difficult things) vsed to fill with sea water, and therein to make nauall fights. One wood by which we passed was more dangerous then the rest, where the Pope maintaines forty foot to assist the Guard of horse, till they haue passed the same. The discent of the last mountaine neere Velitri, was two miles long, yet pleasant by reason of the multitude of Vines growing vpon short stakes, which vse to yeeld the richest wine. Velitri is by writers called Belitre, an old City of the Volsci, and famous for the birth of the Emperour Augustus, and the dwelling of the Octauian Family. The second day in the morning we rode thirteene or foureteene miles to Sermoneta, and in the midst of the way our guard of horseleft vs, and their trumpet asked of euery man a gift in curtesie, which we gladly gaue, and there new horsemen meeting vs, tooke vpon them our guard. After dinner we rode eight miles to a little towne La casa nnoua, and fiue miles to an old City, which Liuy callesh Priuernum, yet other Co'mographers write that the ruines thereof lie in a plaine two miles off, whereas this is seated vpon a mountaine, yet growing to a City by the decay of the former, is called Priuernum, and vulgarly Piperno. We passed through wooddy mountaines, full of Oliue trees on the right hand, and a fruitfull plaine of corne, and many Orchards of Orange trees, and like fruits, on the left hand. And among the mountaines on the right hand, the most remote was called Circello, of the famous Witch Circe, and it is a Promontory hanging ouer the sea, where at this day they shew the cup, in which Vlisses drunke the inchanted potion, and vnder the hollow caues of this mountaine, the Turkish Pirates lurke in the summer time, and rob the Christians. The last fiue miles of our iourney, all the passengers and souldiers were put before the Carrier and his Mules; for then we turned out of the plaine towards mountaines on the left hand, where (as they said) the banished men had the weeke before assailed the Carrier. After we had dined, the horse-men left vs, and certaine foot did after guide vs from one City to another. The third day in the morning we had a guard of horse-men, and rode twelue miles to Terracina, an old City, so called in the time of the Emperour Tiberius, and we passed through a fertile plaine of corne on the right hand towards the Sea, and stony hils full of Oliue trees on the left hand towards the Land, and many vineyards, and ruines of houses neere the City. After we had this morning rode two miles, we passed by an old Monastery called la Badia della fossa nuoua, where they haue a monument of Saint Thomas Aquinas, but his body was carried to the City Tolouse in France, when the French-men had the Kingdome of Naples. And after we had rode ten miles our guard of horse left vs, and certaine foot meeting vs, conducted vs other 2 miles. In this way the waters in many places at the foot of the hils did stinke of brimstone, but infinite Laurel trees on all sides refreshed our smel. Terracina in the flourishing time of Rome was called Anxur, and it is seated vpon a mountaine, as most of the foresaid Cities are, and it lieth vpon the sea, which the land imbraceth like a halfe Moone, this Citie lying vpon one horne thereof, and the Citie Caieta vpon the other, of which Citie the Cardinall had name, who did oppose himselfe to Luther. The flouds of the sea make great noise, with striking vpon hollow caues of Rocks. A souldier came out of the Tower of Torracina, and demaunded of euery man fiue baocci, which we paid, though it were onely due from them, who had portmanteaues with locks. Neere this City we did see the ruines of a stately Theater. After dinner we rode ten miles to the City Fondi, through a stony way, being part of the old way of Appius; and vpon the right hand we had a plaine towards the sea, and vpon the left hand rockey Mountaines towards the land, where wee passed by the Citie Monticello. At the mid-way, the Popes guard hauing left vs, we came to two old ruined walles, shutting vp the way, and lying from the Mountaine to the sea. This place called Sportelle, deuides the territories of the Pope and the King of Naples, and is kept by a Garison of Spaniards. I remember at our comming backe, these Souldiers demaunded of the passengers a gift in curtesie, and when some refused it, they stopped their passage, and onely troubled them in the searching of their carriage, vnder pretence that they might carry some prohibited things. Those Souldiers did accompany vs to the Citie Fondi. I call the same and some other places by the name of Citie, because they were Cities of old, though now they be onely Villages, and haue no other beautie, but the ruines of age. This old Citie was sacked in the yeere 1534 by Barbarossa a Turkish Pirate. It is seated in a Plaine, hauing onely a meadow and a field ouerflowed betweene it and the sea, and the houses are built of Flints and such litle stones, but it had most pleasant Orchards, of Citrons, Oranges and Lemons. The Orange trees at one time haue ripe and greene fruites and buds, and are greene in winter, giuing at that dead time a pleasant remembrance of Sommer. By our Veturines sparing, our diet was daily very short, and at Terracina we could not so much as get wine; and here our supper was so short, as we iudged our Vetturines good Phisitians, who perswade light suppers. The wines of Fondi and Cecubo (for the mount Cecubo is not farre distant) are much celebrated by the Roman Poets, namely, by Horace. The fourth day in the morning, we rode ten miles to Mola vulgarly called Nola, vpon a paued Causey betweene stony Mountaines, being part of the way of Appius, and through great woods of Oliue trees, hauing by the way many Orchards of Oranges and like fruites, and entering neere Mola into a more open aire. Not onely this Village, but all this sea coast is called Mola, of the Miles (as I thinke) driuen by waters falling from the Mountaines, and it is numbred among the most pleasant places of Italy. Mola is built vpon the ruines of old Formia, which are to be seene in the fields round about it. Among these ruines is the house of Cicero, who speakes of his Village Formia, where Scipio and Lelius came to recreate themselues; and there is also the sepulcher of Cicero, so as it seemes he was killed by Anthony in this Territory. After dinner we rode eight miles through a wilde field with low shrubs, vpon a paued way, till wee came to the Riuer Garigliano, whose narrow and deepe streame we passed by boat, and staied long about the putting ouer of our horses, our company being great, and each horseman paied fiue baocci for passage. Neere this Riuer wee did see the ruines of a most faire Theater, built of bricke and flint, and of another old and round Theater, and of a Conduit built of brick, vpon a 140 arches. Not farre hence among huge and snowy Mountaines, is the Citie Traeto, which hath the title of a Dukedome, and was of old called Minturne. After we had passed the Riuer, we rode seuen miles to Sesso, and three miles to a Country house, through a fruitful Plaine of corne, hauing the Tirrhene sea so neare vs, as we might see it three or foure times. And because the other Carrier comming from Naples to Rome, lodged with his consorts a mile before vs in the Village Castellano, we were forced to lodge in this Country house. The fifth day in the morning, at the beginning of our iourney, we met the said Carrier with his consorts, and we rode eight miles to the Village Francolisse, in a most pleasant way, betweene Hills of black clay like stone, but a most fruitfull Countrey. This Village lay on the left hand of our way towards the land, among very pleasant Hills; and the place is not farre distant, where Hanibal brought into straights by Fabius, did escape by a stratagem, tying fire vpon the hornes of Oxen.

After we rode 8 miles to the most pleasant City Capua, through a most sweet Plaine, Capua. called Laborina, because it is laborious to the tiller, but it is wonderfull fruitfull, and aboundeth with Oliue trees, and vines planted vpon Elmes. Here we dined, not according to our couenant at our Vetturines charge, but at our owne cost, and each man had such meate as he chose, and that (as I thinke) because the passengers being now out of danger, and in a place abounding with all dainties, refused to be dieted at their Veturines pleasure, and chose rather to feast themselues as they list. And in deede we had excellent cheare, delicate wine most white pure bread, and among other dainties, I remember wee had blacke Oliues, which I had neuer seene before, and they were of a most pleasant taste. Here each of vs paid two Giulij and a halfe for our dinner. This City is newly built, but if you goe out of the Gates to Saint Maries Church towards Naples vpon the South-West side of the Towne, there you shall see a Colossus, and a Caue, and many Monuments of old Capua among the Orchards: the delicacies of which Citie were of old so famous, as we reade, that the Army of Hanibal grew effeminate thereby. This new Citie hath a Castle vpon the North-East side, built vpon the walles, wherein is a Garrison of souldiers, which keepeth the Citie in obedience, and the Riuer Vulturnus runnes vpon the same side of the Citie, which they passe with a bridge of stone, neere which there is an inscription, that Phillip King of Spaine repaired the way, and built the bridge. The Citie is of a little compasse, but strong, and it hath a faire Senate-House, and a faire Church called l' Annonciata, with a faire Altar.

After dinner wee had no guard, neither were tied to accompany the Carrier, but it was free for euery man to take his way and company, or to ride alone at his pleasure. So from Capua we rode eight miles to Anuersa, a new Citie, otherwise called Aduersa, and of old called Attella, whence were the old satyricall Comedies, which were full of baudery, and were called Attellane. And betweene this City and the Mountaine Vesuuius, now called Somma, out of the way towards the land, and neere the Castle Airola, is the Valley Caudine, where Hanibal put the Romans, drawne into straites, disgracefully to passe vnder a paire of gallowes, which were called the Caudine gallows, wel knowne to all that haue read Liuy.

The same afternoone we rode further eight miles to Naples. And all this way from Naples. Capua to Naples, is a most fruitfull plaine of corne, and vines growing high vpon Elme trees, according to the Tillage of Lombardy, one and the same field yeelding corne, and wine, and wood to burne, but the other wines of this Country growing vpon hills and mountaines, and all the other fruites, cannot be worthily praised. We entered Naples on the East side by the Gate of Capua, where the Vice-Ròies vse to enter in pompe. And this Gate is stately built, and vpon this side, the suburbes are long and faire, and the streete of Capua within the wals, is no lesse faire, in which is the prison: and because we were attired like Frenchmen, the prisoners scoffed at vs, and to my great maruell, the Citizens of good sort did not forbeare this barbarous vsage towards vs.

(A) Rome farre distant.

(B) Capua.

(D) Torre di Graco, and the Mountaine Somma.

(E) The Mountaine Pausilippo.

(F) The Iland Nisita, or Nisa.

(G) The Iland Procida.

(H) S. Martino (as I thinke) an Iland.

(I) Ischia, an Iland.

(K) Caprca, or Capre, an Iland.

(L) Palmosa an Iland, and beyond it the Syrenes Iland, famous by tables.

(M) The Citie Caieta.

(N) Circello, a famous Mountaine for the Witch Circe.

(P) The Bay of Baie or Pozzoli.

(R) Linternum, now called Torre della Patria,

(X) The Promontory Miseno.

(Y) The Cape of Minerua.

(Z) The old Citie Cuma.

(a) The Gate of Capua.

(b) The Kings Gate.

(c) The Church S. Clara.

(d) The Castle of S. Ermo. (eéeee) Scattered houses.

(f) The Hauen.

(g) Il. Molle.

(h) The Castle deuouo.

(k) The Vice-Royes house.

(l) The new Castle.

(m) The Lake d'Agnano, compassed with the Mountaine Astruno.

(n) Grotta del can'.

(o) Solfataria.

(p) Pozzoii.

(q) Tripergola.

(r) The Lake of Auernus.

(s) Baie.

(t) Cento Camerelle.

(v) Piscina mirabile.

(w) The Elisian fields.

From the foresaid part on the East-side of the Citie, where we entred by the (a) Gate of (a) Capua, without the walls, towards the land. Eight miles frō the Citie lies (D) Torre di Graco, now called Torre d'ottauio, where Pliny, writer of the Naturall history, and Admirall of the Nauey of Augustus, was neere the said sower choked with vapours, while too curiously he desired to behold the burning of the Mountaine Vesunius, now called Somma. This Mountaine Somma is most high, and vpon the top is dreadfull, where is a gulfe casting out flames, and while the windes inclosed, seeke to breake out by naturall force, there haue been heard horrible noises and fearefull groanes. Therest of the Mountaine aboundeth with vines, and Oliues, and there growes the Greckewine, which Pliny calles Pompeies wine; and of this wine they say, this place is called Torredi Graco. The greatest burning of this Mountaine brake out in the time of the Emperour Titus, the smoke whereof made the Sunne darke, burnt vp the next territories, and consumed two Cities, Pompeia, and Herculea, and the ashes thereof couered all the fields of that territory. It brake out againe in the yeere 1538 with great gaprig of the earth, and casting downe part of the Mountaine. The Pallace there, taking the name of the next Village, is called Pietra Biancha, that is white stone, which on the inside is all of marble, decked with carued worke in the very Chambers, and there is an Image of a Nymphe sleeping, and lying vpon an earthen vessell, out of which great quantity of water flowes, and falls into Marble Channels, wherein fish are kept as in pondes. This Pallace was built in the yeere 1530 by a Counseller to the Emperour Charles the fifth. At the foote of this Mountaine, of old Decius, the first of all the Roman Consuls did by vow giue himselfe for the Army. And at the bridge of the Brooke Draco, the last King of the Gothes Teius, was slaine, hauing three Bucklers all pierced with his enemies arrowes. On the same East side comming backe to Naples, (yet the saide Mountaine lyes Northward) you shall come to a stately Pallace, which the Kings of Naples haue built, and called it Poggio Reale, being not aboue a mile from Naples. There of old was seated the Citie Paleopolis, and it lies in a most sweete Plaine.

From the said Pallace the way leades right to the Kingly (b) Gate, called Porta Reale, at which onely the King enters in solemne pompe, and from this Gate right to the West, lies a most faire and large streete called Strada Toletana, the way whereof on both sides is raised with a faire and large pauement for men to walk vpon, and it hath a faire Market-place. When you come to the end of this streete, there is the Church of Saint (c) Clara, called vulgarly San' chiara, which was built by Agnes of Spaine, wife to King Robert, where are artificiall sepulchers of the said Robert (comming of the French Kings) and of his wife Agnes, and of other Kings and Princes of the French family Durczzana. And there in a Chappell the Monkes day and night sing with a lamentable voice, or rather groane for the rest of their deceased soules. In the Church of Saint Dominick is an Altar, which they say, cost some twenty fiue thousand Crownes; and in the Vesterie lie the bodies of nine Kings in coffins of wood, couered with peuter, & hauing black veluet laied ouer them. Among these Kings are Alphonso the first, King of Aragon, and Ferdinand his sonne, and Ferdinand the second. And in this place also, the Monkes in like sort sing, or rather houle rest to their soules. They shew a Crucifix, which they say, did speake to Thomas Aquinas in this manner; Thomas, thou hast written well of me, what reward doest them aske? And that Thomas should answere; No reward Lordbut thy selfe onely. I haue heard, that Saint Bernard knowing the fraudes and impostures of the Monkes, and not dissembling them, when the Image of the blessed Virgin did in like sort praise him, did with much more pietie and wisdome answere out of S. Paul, 1. Cor. 14. Let women be silent in the Church, for it is not permitted them to speake.

Not farre thence are the publike schooles of the Vniuersity, which the Emperour Fredericke the second founded there In the most faire Church of the Monkes of Saint Oliuet, the Images of Ferdinand the first, and Alphonso the second, are so liuely engrauen, and doe so artificially represent them, as well in the bed dying, as vpon their knees praying, with the mourning of the by-standers, (the horror of Religion being increased with lampes continually burning,) as my selfe by chance passing by this Chappell, thought I had fallen among liuing Princes, not dead Images; and perhaps I haue seene a more sumptuous monument, but a more beautifull did I neuer see. In the little Church of the Hermitane Friers, Saint Iohn in Carbonara, is a monument of Robert King of Naples, and of Ioane the first his sister, of white marble, being an Altar, which the Italians thinke the most stately monumenr of Europe; but for my part I dare not preferre it to some in Germany, nor to many in England, nor to the monuments of the Turkish Emperours. Many tables are hung vp by vow in this Church. There is a faire sepulcher of white marble erected to N. Caraccioli Marshall of the Kingdome. I omit the most faire Church of Saint Mary of the Preachers, almost all of marble, and the Cathedrall Church called Episcopio, and the Church of Saint Laurence.

Vpon the North-west and by-north part of the City, is the Fort called (d) S. Eremo cut out in a high Rocke, yet the ascent thereunto is so easie, as a horse-man may well mount to the top. Vpon this mountaines top lies a plaine; in which this Castle is seated, which commands the City, though it were taken by the enemy. A little beneath is the monastery of the Carthusians, and vpon pretence to enlarge that monastery, the Emperour Charles the fifth built this most strong Castle, to bridle the wonted petulancy and inconstancy of the Citizens; and from thence there is a most sweet prospect as well into the City, as to the bayes of the sea.

Towards the South-side is the Hauen, and beyond the (f) bay of Naples lies firme land; for the Sea comming in from the West, makes this bay. Vpon this side is a fortification for the safety of the hauen, which is called (g) Il Molle, & it driues off the waues of the sea, and makes the Hauen like an halfe Moone, and therein at this time were twenty gallies and ten small ships. The Armory lies vpon the Sea, from whence the gallies and ships and land forces are armed; and among other things, there is kept the rich Armour (yet without any ornament of gold) of the French King Francis the first, which he did weare when he was taken prisoner at Pauia. Thereby lies a large market place, in which is a faire fountaine, with many Images casting out water. Also there is a Tower where they set light by night to guide sea men into the Hauen. In the said market place is a stone, vpon which many play away their liberty at dice, the Kings officers lending them money, which when they haue lost, and cannot repay, they are drawne into the gallies, for the Spaniards haue slaues of both sexes.

On the outside of the said Molle, or fortification vpon the hauen towards the west, & neere to the shore, lies the most strong fort called (l) Castello nuouo, seated in a plaine, and built by Charles the first of Arion, and so fortified by Alphonso the first, King of Aragon, as it is numbred among the chiefe forts of Europe. The inward gate is most faire all of marble, and it hath a little fouresquare hall, in which the Parliaments are yeerely held, and the Viceroyes weekely sit in iudgement. Neere this hall is a faire tower, in which the Kingly ornaments are laid vp; namely, a scepter of gold, with great diamonds vpon the top, the sword with the haft and scabbard of gold, adorned with precious stones; the Kings Crowne shining with precious stones, a golden crosse, an huge pot of gold set with precious stones, great Vnlcornes hornes, and the chiefe kinds of precious stones.

Further towards the West, (yet so neere, as the garden of the Pallace lies vpon the ditch of this Castle), is the (k) Viceroyes Palace, which hath a large and most sweet garden, and delicate walk, paued with diuers coloured and engrauen marbles. And in this garden are two banquetting houses, whereof one is very stately built, and hath a sweet fountaine close to the table continually powring out water. Also there is a delicate cage of birds, wrought about with thick wyer, and it is as big as an ordinary stil-house, delicately shadowed round about, wherein are many kinds of singing birds, as well of Italy as forraigne Countries.

A little further within the water, is the (h) Castle of the egge, built vpon a rock by the Normans, which Rocke is of an ouall forme, and gaue the name to the Castle, vulgarly called Castel' del' vuono, which at this day is ruinous; and some say it was the Pallace of Lucullus; but it is certaine that the Normans built it, as they did also another Castle which is old, and called the Capuan Castle, of the adioining Capuan-gate. Naples was of old called Parthenope, of one of the Syrens there buried, whom they write to haue cast her selfe into the sea, for griefe that by no flattery shee could detaine Vlisses with her. The Citizens of old Cuma built Naples, and left it should grow great to the preiudice of Cuma, they pulled it down againe till at last oppressed with a great glague, vpon the warning of an oracle, they built it againe, and changing the old name Parthenope, called it Naples, which in Greeke signifies a new City. It is seated at the foot of hils and mountaines, in length from the North-east to the South-west, or rather seemeth to be triangular, whereof two corners lie vpon the sea, and that towards the West is more narrow then the other, and the third blunt corner lies towards the mountaines. Vpon the East-side there be pleasant suburbs, and vpon the West-side more large suburbs; but vpon the North-side without the wals, there be onely some few (eeeee) scattered houses built vpon the sides of hils.

The houses of the City are foure roofes high, but the tops lie almost plaine, so as they walke vpon them in the coole time of the night, or at left in generall the tops are not much erected, like other parts of Italy, and the building is of free stone, and sheweth antiquity: but the windowes are all couered with paper or linnen cloth; for glasse windowes are most rare in Italy, and as it were proper to Venice. It hath three faire broad and long streetes, namely, La Toletano, la Capuana and la vicaria, the rest are very narrow. There be eight gates towards land, and as many towards sea, among which the Capuan gate, since the Emperour Charles the fifth entered thereat, is decked with monuments and statuaes. There be in this City very many Pallaces, of Gentlemen, Barons, and Princes; whereupon the City is vulgarly called Napoli Gentile: Among these, two Pallaces are most stately, one of the Duke of Greuina, which the King of Spaine forbad to be finished; the other of the Prince of Salerno. There be foure publike houses, called Seggij, in which the Princes and Gentlemen haue yeerely meetings, and there also is the daily meeting of the Merchants. Almost euery house hath his fountaine of most wholsome waters. Neere the market place are many Innes, but poore and base; for howsoeuer the City aboundeth with houses where they giue lodging and meat, yet it deserues no praise for faire Innes of good entertainement. On all sides the eye is as it were bewitched with the sight of delicate gardens, aswell within the City, as neere the same. The gardens without the wals are so rarely delightfull, as I should thinke the Hesperides were not to be compared with them; and they are adorned with statuaes, laberinthes, fountaines, vines, myrtle, palme, cetron, lemon, orange, and cedar trees, with lawrels, mulberies, roses, rosemary, and all kinds of fruits and flowers, so as they seeme an earthly Paradice. The fields are no lesse fruitfull, bringing forth abundantly all things for the vse of man. The Kings stables without the wals are worth the seeing, for the horses of this Kingdome are much esteemed; and if any man buy a horse, to carry out of the Kingdome, he payes the tenth part of the price to the King.

The City being seated vpon the sides of hils, and by lying open to the South, being subiect to great heates, and most parts of the streetes being narrow, so as in walking the heat is not to be endured, and yet they cannot vse Coaches, one fashion pleased me beyond measure, that at the end of many streetes they had chaires, vulgarly called Seggioli di Napoli, which those that are weary doe enter, and they being couered round about, and onely hauing windowes on the sides, he that is carried therein, cannot be seene of any, and yet himselfe may see all that passe. Two Porters carry these chaires by two long staues fastened thereunto, and lift them but little from the ground, and so for a moderate price carry the passenger to any part of the City. After I obserued the same fashion at Genoa, which is in like sort seated vpon the sides of hils and mountaines, and in Cities so seated, I thinke this fashion very conuenient.

The territory of Naples hath many famous antiquities, and wonderfull things to be seene, which that we might behold, we went early in the morning on foot out of the Southwest-side of the City; & hauing passed long suburbs & scattered houses we came within a Musket shot to the mountaine (E) Pausilippo, which is wonderfully pleasant, aswell for the houses and villages built vpon it, as for the excellent fruits which it yeeldeth of all kinds. This mountaine being hard to be ascended, extendeth it selfe in good length from the sea towards the land, so as the way would be very troublesome to Pozzols, either ascending the mountaine, or compassing it, had they not found a remedy to this inconuenience. Therefore the Progenitors of these Citizens (which some attribute to Lucullus, as they doe all magnificall things, and others to one Bassus: but Leander the Cosmographer, a witnesse without exception, attributes it to Coccius a Roman,) I say, their Progenitors with wonderful Art and huge expence, digged a passage vnder this mountaine, and so made a plaine way to Pozzoli and those parts. This way Strabo cals a Caue, and it is vulgarly called La grotta di Napoli, and serueth this famous City in stead of a gate, yet is it a musket shot distant, and alwaies lies open. And the foresaid Leander witnesseth, that it is twelue foot broad, twenty foure high, and two hundred long, to which length if you adde 500. foote more, which at both ends was digged, but lies not couered as the rest, but in open aire, this worke may well be said to be an Italian mile long. My selfe obserued, that part of the passage vnder the mountaine, to bee nine hundred and sixteene walking paces long, and nine broad, and the hight I imagined to double the bredth, yet is it in some places biger then in other. And for the bredth, it is certaine, that two Coaches, or Carts may passe together, one by the other. The enterance and the going out at the other end, are like two gates, and of old light came in by many holes or windowes from the top of the mountaine; but the falling of earth did by little and little stop this light; and in the time of Seneca this passage was so darke, as he compares it to a prison, and at last the light was so stopped by the fall of earth, by nettles and shrubs, as there was no light at all, till Alphonso the first of Aragon, King of Naples, opened two windowes towards the two ends, which onely light it hath at this day to direct passengers. At the entrance of either end, the opposite gate seemes no bigger then a full Moone, and a man entering there, would seeme a little child. It hath no light in the middest, but like twilight, or the Ouidian light which is in thicke woods, and in the twilight of morning and euening passengers vse torches, & continually the carters or horsmen when they passe by the midst of the caue, vse to giue warning one to the other, crying vulgarly Alla marina (that is towards the sea) or Alla Montagna (that is towards the mountaine) according to the side on which they come. Before we entered this caue, among other stately Pallaces, one vulgarly called, Merguilino, built by Iames Sanazzarro, a famous Poet almost of our age, and giuen by his last will to a religious house, contains the sepulcher of a learned man, vpon which Bembus is said to haue written these verses,

Vpon the mountaine of Pausilippo, is the sepulcher of Virgil, shewed in two places, whom Seruius writes to haue beene buried in this way neere Naples; and that these verses were written vpon his sepulcher;

And the best iudgements hold, that he was buried in the Church of the Friars regular canons, at the entrance of the caue, as you go frō Naples, & not in the Church at the going out of the Caue; and though both places shew the sepulcher, yet these verses are in neither place, but the inscriptions are worne out with age: the Monks report, that there was a statua of brasse vpon his sepulcher, which those of Mantua stole fro thence, & indeede, at Mantua they shew such a statua, whether stolne from hence or no, let them dispute.

When we had passed this Caue, wee bent our way from the Sea towards the land, and came to the Mountaine (m) Astrune, being of forme like a Theater, compassing a large Plaine. Alphonso the first, King of Aragon and Naples, and his sonne Ferdinand, vsed to inuite the Princes, Nobles, and People of the Kingdome, to hunting in this place, turning the dogs and beasts they hunted, into the valley, himselfe and the noble men sitting in a pleasant Groue vpon the top of the Mountaine, and the people being scattered round about the Mountaine, to behold the sport. In the same plaine compassed with this Mountaine, is the Lake of (m) Agnano which is said to be without bottome, and to haue nothing in it but frogs. And at the foote of the inside of the Mountaine next to Naples, there is a venimous Caue, vulgarly called (n) la grotta del'can', that is the Caue of the dogge; because they trie the poison by putting dogs into it This Caue is some eight foote high, and sixe broad, and goeth some foure paces vnder the Mountaine, where a signe is set, beyond which, if any liuing thing passe, it presently dies. Pliny writes, that this caue was called Cherone a scrobae, euaporating a pestilent aire. We gaue two poli to a woman (dwelling there) for a dog, to trie the poyson with it, which dog wee fastened to a long staffe, and so thrust him into the caue, holding him there, till he seemed dead, and being taken our, would not moue for any blowes wee gaue it; then according to the fashion, wee cast the dog into the aforesaid Lake, and when he was drawne out, he began by little and little to moue, and at last, being come to his senses, ranne away, as if he had been madde. The common sort attribute this to the blessing giuen to the water by the Saint of which it is named but nothing is more cleere, then that the sprinkling of any water will reuiue the spirits choked with any ill vapour. Besides, many haue tried, that liuing things cast into that caue, and held there for longer time then is vsuall, could neuer be fetched againe to life by this or any other water. They report, that a French Gentleman of Tournan trying to fetch a stone out of this caue beyond the aforesaid signe, paied for his curiosity by vnrecouerable death. And that the French King Charles the eight, commanding an Asse to be thrust into this caue, the beast could neuer be fetched to life againe. And that don Iohn, base sonne of the Emperour Charles the fifth, forced a Gally-slaue to goe into this caue, and he falling dead, forced another slaue to fetch him out, who likewise fell dead, and that hee killed the third slaue with his owne hand, because hee refused to fetch out his two dead fellowes. Many cast frogs into this caue, and except they presently leape back, this vapour kills them, which is said to rise out of Mines of Brimstone and other mettals. Into the foresaid Lake they cast flax, which will be sleeped in that water in 14 houres, though it lies vsually two weekes in other waters. And this water, though cold to touch, yet seemes to boile. The Earthquakes and flames breaking out of these Mountaines, by the vapours inclosed, gaue the Poets occasion to faine, that Giants were buried vnder them. Not farre hence are the wholesome baths, vulgarly called I bagni d'Agnano, which kind of baths are very frequent in this part. Heere lie the ruines of a great Village of Lucullus, and Writers affirme, that hee brought the Sea water into the foresaid Lake, cutting the passage through Mountaines. Here also are the ruines of the Village of Cicero, which retaine the old name, and the Emperour Adrian dying at Bait, was buried here, and his successor Anthony here built a Temple to him.

Vpon the top of a Mountaine neere this place, is a round field like a Market-place, vulgarly called (o) Solfataria, which Strabo cals Forum vulcani: & Pliny writes, that of old this place was called Campi Flecrci. It is of an Ouall forme, somewhat more long then broad, hauing 1500 foote in length, and 1000 in breadth, being compassed on all sides with Mountaines, except the enterance, lying towards Pozzoli. All the earth is hollow, and being beaten with a mans foote, soundeth like an emptie vessell; and not only the earth by the Brimstone is made yellow, but it made our bootes and shooes of the same colour, with walking vpon it, yea, when I cast a piece of siluer vpon the ground, it was presently made yellow and with no rubbing could be made white againe. In this Ouall Market place (as I may call it) there is a short and narrow ditch of water, which is almost round, and the water thereof boyles, as if fire were vnder it. They say if any thing be cast into it, that it will be sodden in short space; but some part of it will be consumed: and Leander reports, that one cast foure egges into it, and presently tooke three fully sodden, but the fourth was consumed. Also he witnesseth, that this little ditch is not alwaies in one place, but in time workes it selfe from one place to another in this circuite, and yet is neuer greater, and that the old ditch is filled presently with new matter. An horseman cannot well come to this place, and as the same Leander writes, an horse man comming boldly thither, was swallowed vp into the hollow earth. And that the strange heate of this water may appeare, one of the Viceroyes Guard, a Duchman, and comming hither, according to their fashion, to guide his Countrey men my consorts, told vs, that one of his fellowes not long before, comming in like sort as hee did, to guide his Countrimen hither, either being carelesse, or rather (as it is most probable) hauing drunke too much, and not guiding his feete well, by chance stumbled into this ditch, and when one of his friends tooke him by the hand to pull him out, that he pulled of all the skinne from his hand, and that after better aduice, they pulled him out with a cloake flung about him, but that within few daies he died, neither could the Phisitians giue him any remedy or promise any hope of his life. At the foote of the Mountaine there is a hole, where the vapours with their owne motion, continually cast vp little stones and stinking smelles; but if any man moue these vapours by a staffe, or any thing put into the hole, the more they are stirred, the greater stones they cast vp, yea flames of fire sometimes. There bee some cottages neere this place, where they make Brimstone, and all these parts smell of brimstone, and if the winde blow from hence towards Naples, the stinke thereof may bee smelled thither. On all sides here be Baths of wholesome waters, which of old were famous.

After we had passed huge ruines of old buildings, we came at the foot of a mountaine to the City (p) Pozzoli, of old famous, and called Puteolis, to which all these ruines are said to haue belonged of old, and it had the name of the Latin word Puteus, as also it hath the present name from the Italian tong, of the wels, which are frequent. I say it hath the present name of the Italian word Pozzo, signifying a well, though some will haue it named presently of Puzzo, which signifies a stink, because of the smell of brimstone in these parts: but the city being most ancient, cannot haue the old name of an Italian word: and it is certaine, that the Roman Princes of old vsed this part for the place of their recreation; for the great sweetnes of the Country, and the plenty of medicinall waters, whereupon they gaue it the first name. Others say that it was of old called Diciarchiam, but at this day it is called Pozzoli, or Puzzoli. Here we dined, and were forced to giue our swords to the Host, there being a great penalty set vpon any that carry their Armes. The City hath nothing worth the seeing, but the old Church, first built to Heathen Idols, and after by Christians dedicated to Saint Proculus, and it hath the names of the workemen that built it grauen vpon it, and there be shewed the bones of a Giant of wonderfull bignes. The Hauen of this City was of old very commodious, but by negligence is growne of no vse.

Here the sea entring betweene two Mountaines, was of old called the Creeke of (P) Baie, of that Citie seated on the opposite shore, or the Creeke of Pozzoli, of this Citie. Suetonius writes that the Emperour Tiberius consulting about his successor, and inclining more to his true Nephew, Thrasyllus the Mathematitian should answere, that Catus should no more raigne, then he should ride ouer the Creeke of Baie. Wherefore Caius being Emperour, and hearing of this diuination (not as others say, in emulation of Xerxes, who made a Bridge ouer Hellespont, nor to the end that with the fame of this great worke, he might terrifie the rebellious Germans and Britans) did build a Bridge ouer this creeke of the sea, being about three miles long, that hee might thereupon passe from Baie to Pozzoli. Of this Bridge thirteene piles of bricke may bee seene neere the shore at Pozzoli, and as many on the other side neere the shore of Baie, and some of these piles haue yet arches vpon them, but ready to fall. And from these piles the Inner part of the bridge was founded vpon two rankes of shippes fastened with ancors, and couered ouer with a bancke of earth, to make the passage like the way of Appius. The rest Suetonius addeth in these or the like words. Ouer this bridge he went to and fro for two daies; the first day vpon a trapped horse, hauing his head adorned with a Crowne of Oake leaues, and bearing an Hatchet, a Sword, and a Garland, and a robe of cloth of Gold. The next day in a Coch-mans habit, driuing a Coch drawne by foure famous horses, carrying before him Darius a childe, one of the pledges giuen by the Parthians, his Pretorian Souldiers accompanying him, and his friends following him in a Coach, &c. He that desires to comprehēd the magnificence of this work, must first know, that the Mediterranean sea is very calme, hauing little or no ebbing or flowing, and that this Creeke is yet more calme, and that this bridge was built in the furthest part of the Creeke, very neere the land. These things considered, (if my iudgement faile not), there is greater cause of wonder at the Bridge built by the Duke of Parma besieging Antwerp, being in like sort built vpon barkes fastened one to the other, and also at the Bridge of London, bearing a great ebbing and flowing of the sea, and built of free stone, vpon so firme a foundation, as it beareth many great and faire houses vpon it: but whatsoeuer the magnificence were, surely the vanitie of this worke was great, to spend so much vpon this Bridge, the way by land being not a mile longer then by the Bridge. Giue me leaue to digresse so farre, as to remember, that the Territorie of Falernum is not farre from Pozzols, the wine whereof called Falernum, is so much praised by Horace. After dinner we went from Pozzoii, to view the Antiquities lying vpon this Creeke; and first we came to the Labyrinth, a building vnder ground, which hath the name of the multitude of roomes, with such passages to and fro; as a man may loose himselfe in them; and here wee had not onely neede of the thread of Ariadne, but of light also to conduct vs. Leander thinks, that all this building was to keepe fresh water: Then we came to the Amphitheater, being of an Ouall forme, the inner part whereof is 172 foot long, and 88 broad, the building whereof is little ruined: And Suetonius writes, that this was built for the Plaies of Vulcan. Not farre thence, neere the shoare, is a fountaine of cleare and sweete water, flowing plentifully out of the sea, so that for a great distance we might with our eies distinguish the same from the sea water, which Leander thinks to haue been brought by pipes vnder the earth, to these houses of the old Romans. Neere this place are the ruines of many buildings, now called Belgeimano, which the Emperour Tiberius is said to haue built, when hereturned with triumph from the German warre. Betweene the rocks that compasse this sea, is the way Attellane, which leades those that passe to Rome, to the way of Appins, and there be many baths, for most of the waters are medicinall.

Neere the Lake of Auernus vpō the side towards Pozzoli, lies a Mountaine, (q) which lately broke out of the earth, where of old were the bathes of Tripergola, whence the dwellings in this part, and this place, are called Tripergola, and here of old were many large and stately buildings, but by reason of many Earthquakes, and roberies of Pirats, the houses were long since forsaken, and at last in the yeere 1538 were swallowed vp by the earth. For in that yeere vpon Michaelmas day was a terrible Earthquake in this place, which brake out with fire in great flames, casting vp stones, with a great tempest of winde, and darkenesse of the aire, so as the people thought the worlds end was come. And at this time the ashes of this fire were carried by the winde to places twentie miles distant. At last after seuen daies, this confusion ceased, and then the aforesaid Mountaine breaking out of the bowels of the earth was first seene, being three miles high, and at the bottom foure miles compasse. Vpon the toppe of this Mountaine is a hole some fistie paces broad, which towards the bottom growes more and more narrow, where it seemeth round, and of little compasse, hauing a cleare water, yet giuing a stink of brimstone, and this hole is like a Theater made by art. In the foresaid fearefull Earthquake, caused by the breaking out of the vapours inclosed vnder the hollow earth, many famous bathes were lost, and no more seene. Not farre hence is the Mountaine of Christ, so called, because they say, that Christ with the squadrons of the Fathers, passed this way when hee ascended from Hell. But the French Gentleman Villamont worthily iudgeth this to be fabulous, and likewise the miracle of the Crucifex here, bearing the markes of Christ, yet doth he giue too much credit to the miracles of Loreto.

Vpon the shore of the creek of (r) Baie, lies the Lake (as Virgil saith) of the foule stinking Auernus. This Lake is a naturall Hauen, but is not vsed, because the Hauen of Lucrinus is betweene it and the sea. It is compassed with high hils on all sides, but onely where the Sea enters on the South-side at a passage fifty paces broad, and the forme of it is round, and the hils that compasse it now seeme pleasant, but of old were all couered with a thicke wood, which shutting vp the aire, and by the shadow drawing many birds to it, was thought to be the cause that these birds stifled with the smell of brimstone, fell suddenly dead, till the Emperour Augustus caused the wood to be destroied. And of the birds thus killed, the Lake was called Auernus. For this smell of brimstone, and the shadow of the foresaid wood, darkening the Lake, and the blacke colour of the water, and because the sunne is shut out from the Lake by the hils, this Lake was feined by the Poets to be one of the Lakes of hell. Leander writes of a fountaine here, the water whereof no man would drinke, because they thought it came from hell, deriued by the heat of Phlegiton, whereupon an Oracle was built here, as in a place consecrated to Pluto, and the Cymerians liuing here in a Caue, entered this place when they had sacrificed to the Gods for the soules of the dead. Leander also saith, that they vsed to sacrifice men in this place, and nameth Elpenor sacrificed by Vlisses (for he vnderstands Homer to meane this place,) and also Misenus sacrificed by AEneas, though Virgil write that he died here. Some will haue this Lake to be the famous Fen of Acheron, of which Virgil writes;

This also Sernius affirmes, and shewes that this Lake comes from the infernal Riuer Acheron, so called as without ioy. But Leander shewes that Acheron faigned by the Poets to be a riuer of hell, is a riuer of Calabria, and that there is another riuer of that name in Greece. They say that the water of this Lake Auernus seemes blacke, because it hath no bottome: but Leander affirmes that some by a long rope found the bottome to be three hundred and sixty fathome deepe. The hils that compasse Auernus are very steepe, with a head long fall, whereupon Virgil saith;

Vnder the hill towards the West side, is a Caue, which they call the caue of Sybilla of Cuma; and among many roomes there is one, in which shee is said to haue attended her deuotion, but Leander thinkes this place to haue been a sweating Bath. Of this caue Virgil thus writes:

From these hilles to the neighbour Citie Baie, they say the earth is all hollow with caues vnder it, and that the Cimerians of old dwelled vnder an hill towards the seashore. And Leander thinkes that caue to haue belonged to them; and surely whether it belonged to them, or any old Prophets, or to the Prophetesse Sibilla, or whose worke soeuer it was, the wonderfull Art and huge expence therein do plainely appeare. These Cimerians of old did leade strangers vnder the earth to the Oracle, and were diggers in mines, and reputed to haue the spirit of diuination; whereupon the King gaue them pensions for reuealing secrets vnto him. These men neuer saw the Sunne, but came abroad onely in the night; whence is the prouerb of Cimerian darkenesse, and the fiction of the Poets, that they did leade strangers to the Court of Pluto They write, that these hauing deceiued the King by false diuination, were by him destroyed. Vpon the Hilles of Auernus, they shew the ruined Temple of Mercurie, and another Temple of Apollo, little broken downe. Nero began a ditch to be made from the Lake Auernus to Ostia, to auoide the trouble of going by sea. From the said Lake there was a sluce of old into the Lake Lucrinus, by which when there was any floud of the sea, the water passed out of Lucrinus into Auernus Lake: but this is now stopped since the foresaid Earthquake of Tripergula. The Lake Lucrinus is so called in Latin, of the gaine made by fishes sold. Suetonius writes, that Iulius Caesar let in the Sea to this Lake as also into the other. For the Senate of Rome making great gaine of the fish sold here, (till the Sea did once breake in with such force, as the fish went out of these Lakes at the ebbing of the Sea) did thereupon commaund Caesar to giue remedie thereunto, which he did, raising bankes against the Sea, at which time he made a passage for the fish out of one Lake into another. Wee gaue a Clowne three poli for leading vs through the Caue of Sybilla.

Vpon the Sea shore lies the bath, commonly called of Cicero, which the Phisitians call the bath of Tritoli, of a Latin word for rubbing, the letter F being changed into T, and this Bath lieth neere the ruines of the Village of Cicero, called his Academy. I know not whether this Village (or rather Pallace) had the name of Academy or no; for I finde in my notes a Village of Cicero in the way from Naples to Pozzoli, and likewise the mention of this bath of Cicero, and his Academy, neere the Lake of Auernus. And Leander mentions a village of his, in both places: but Villamont speakes of a Village neere Pozzoli, and of a Pallace in this place called Accademy; and these differ not much from my notes: but others confound the Village and the Bath, putting both together, so as writing of these intricate caues vnder the earth, my selfeam fallen into a Laberinth, wherein I had much rather die, then goe backe to Naples for searching the truth. We entered this Bath Tritoli, and gaue a Clowne one Poalo for conducting vs. The passage to enter was straite, and extendeth farre vnder the Mountaine, and there is a marke set, which they say no man euer passed. We did sweate extreamely, yet I desired to come to that marke, till at last feeling my spirits begin to faile me, I was glad to returne, and to creepe vpon the earth, where the aire was more cold then aboue. They say that this bath is very healthfull, and much frequented in the spring time, and that Nero had of old a Pallace built ouer it.

Neere this lie the ruines of Baulos or Boaulia, named of the oxen stolen, by Gerion, for here was the Temple of Hercules, and Seruius, expounding Virgil, saith that Eneas did here speake with Hercules. Leander writes that Hortensius did here make cesternes, wherein hee kept his so much prised Lampreyes. Tacitus and Suetonius in the life of Nero, make mention of this place. For Agripina mother of Nero, passing by water from the Village of Piso to this Baulos, was of purpose and by the commaund of Nero put into a rotten boate, that she might be drowned, which boate splitting in the middest of the passage, Agripina perceiued the intent, and silently (the neight being darke) slipped into another boate, and so for that time escaped: but her waiting-maide being in great danger, and crying out that shee was Mother to Nero, found death by that name, by which she hoped to saue her life, being presently struck into the water by one of the conspiratours. At last when wicked Nero resolued to kill his Mother he inuited her to a feast, entertaining her louingly on the Sea shore, and when she returned, out of shew of duty attending her to this Baulos, lying betweene the Misene Promontory and the Lake of Raie; but at the same time he commaunded that she should be killed, and here vnder the earth we did see her sepulcher in a caue, curiously carued, and one of the sinest old monuments I did euer see.

Hence we passed to (s) Baie, an ancient Citie, and for the sweetenesse preferred to Rome by Horace:

The situation of this Citie is most sweete: but all the houses neere the shoare are drowned, except the Baths, and the houses vpon the mountaine are all ruined, neither doe any dwel here, but some few poore and miserable people (such as the husbandmen of Italy are commonly) yet these ruines shew the pride and magnificence of that old time. This Citie is said to haue the name of a friend of Vlisses there buried. Here bee the foresaid ruines of Caligula his Bridge, which I said doe lie on this side the Creeke. Here we did see the stately ruines of two Senators houses, where the excellent pictures did yet remaine vpon the highest roofe. They shewed vs a tree (as they said) turned into a stone and the ruines of the Temples of Diana and Venus.

From hence we walked towards the Mountaine Misenus, and neere the dead sea; first, wee came to (t) a hill, made hollow by the building vnder it, which is vulgarly called of the number of the roomes Cento camerelle, that is, One hundred little chambers. Leander saith, that it was a Cesterne to keepe fresh-water, whereof the Romans had great store in these parts, whether they came certaine seasons of the yeere to recreate themselues; and all this Territorie on both sides neere this Creeke or Bay of the Sea, are so full of ruined Palaces, Temples, and Sepulchers, as a man would say they were not seuerall Villages, but one great Citie. This said building is large, and foure square, and sustained by foure rankes of foure square pillars, into which wee were let down at a hole in the earth. Round about the entrance there were many Celles, almost foure square, and of an vnequall bignesse, parted with enteries winding about, and because the building is intricate, some thinke it was a Laberinth.

(v) The ruines of a stately building are opposite to this, into which wee descended by fortie staires; it hath no windowes, but all the light comes in at crannies, and it hath foure rankes of fouresquare pillars to beare vp the arched roofe. Euery ranke hath twelue pillars, and in all they be fortie eight, and each one is twelue foote distant from the other, and twelue foote high; to which if you ad the high roofe of the building, the roome is twenty fiue foot high, which I beheld not without being amazed at the magnisicence of the Romans in these buildings. This house is little broken downe, and the plaister of the wall is so hard, as I could not pierce it with my dagger, and it is vulgarly called la piscina mirabile. It is certaine, that the Romans of old bestowed great charge in building places for the keeping of fish, and some thinke this was built to that purpose by Antonia, the wife of Drusus; others say by Hortensius: but Leander saith, that it was built to keepe fresh water, and he (with other Writers) doth iudge it a stately monumēt of the Pallace of Lucullus built neere Baie, which he proueth out of Plutarch, who mentions one Pallace of Lucullus in his foresaid village for his Summer dwelling, and another here neere Baie for his Winter abode. And Tacitus saith, that the Emperour Tiberius foreseeing his death, and often changing places, at last came to this place, and here died. It were an infinite worke if I should seuerally describe the Pallaces of Marius, Caesar, and Lucullus.

I will not omit, that our Guides (I know not how credibly) shewed vs certaine round (w) fields, compassed round with Mountaines, and at this time plowed, which they said were the Elisian fields.

We are now come to the (x) Misene Promontary, which hath the name of Misenus, friend to Eneas, buried here, or rather by him sacrificed to the gods at the Lake Auernus as is aforesaid. Vpon the top of this Mountaine was a Tower, of old called Faro, vpon which a light was hung for a sea-marke. Vnder the Mountaine (especially where it growes narrow, and vpon three sides is washed by the Sea) there be so many houses vnder the earth, as the pillers thereof seeme onely to beare vp the Mountaine, and among them there is one called Grotta Traconara, of the winding passages therein, which by the ruines now remaining, seemes to haue been a magnificent worke, and this Leander thinkes to haue been built to keepe fresh water.

Right opposite to this mountaine, is the (Y) Cape of Minerua and neere that lies the Iland (K) Caprea, or Capre, easie to be seene by the white and high cliffes, and famous by the cruelty, and more then goatish lusts of the Emperour Tiberius, when he with-drew himselfe out of the sight of the Senate and people of Rome, to liue there in solitude. This Iland hath no Hauen, neither can little boates land there; whereupon being safe from Pirates, it was held a place of pleasure in the time of Augustus. The creeke of the sea, comming in betweene these two foresaid Promontories, was of old called Sinus Cratera. Vpon the side of the mountaine Misene, lying towards Cuma, is a lake of salt water, called the dead sea, into which, water fals our of the creeke of rozzols, and it was of old more large. For Suetonius writes that Augustus kept one Nauy in this Lake, and another at Rauenna, to guard the vpper and lower sea. And Tacitus writes that his successour Tiberius kept two Nauies in those places. At this day the Lake is parted from the Sea, with a banke some fifty paces broad, and it is almost round in forme, and some two miles broad; and Plutarke writes that Lucullus made this Lake to keepe fishes therein.

From this mountaine Misene, we walked vpon the Sea shore fiue very short miles, and came to the ruines of the old City (Z) Cuma, built by the Calcedons of the Greek Iland Euboia, & the oldest City in all Italy, and it is said to haue had the name of a good presage from the Captaines of the Nauy, or a woman great with child of that name. It was seated of old vpon a hill neere the sea shore, and yet on the side towards the land, the wals are standing, but the daughter hath deuoured the mother: for the increase of Naples, was the decrease of Cuma, yet the ruines still remaine, and vpon the top of the hill was the Temple of Apollo, of which Virgil writes;

And there is yet an ancient Temple partly ruined. A triumphall Arch is yet vnbroken, but some say the foresaid Temple was consecrated to Hercules. Of old Aristodamus did lead the forces of Cuma, and after his victory they made him their Prince: and Liuy writes that Tarqutnius the proud, being banished came to him, and there died. Historians write that Drusus made a Ditch from this shore towards Capua. In the hill or mountaine of Cuma, there is a labyrinth vnder the earth, and from this hill we did see diuers Ilands neere the Land. The Poets fable that in one of them called (F) Nisa, the Witch Calipso dwelt. That in the second called (G) Procida, the Gyant Typheus was buried, because of the flames that sometimes breake out of the earth. The third is called the (H) Iland of Saint Martine. The fourth is called (I) Ischia, wherein the Kings of Naples haue a strong Castle, to which the King fled for a time, when the French King Charles the eight tooke Naples.

We walked along this shore of the sea, to the Tower called (R) della Patria, being sixteene miles from Naples, eight miles from Baie, and fiue miles from Cuma. It is seated in a pleasant place, and vpon the West-side hath a Lake called by the name of the Tower, and the Riuer Vulturnus running into the sea. On the South-side the sea is neere, and vpon the East and North sides, it hath pleasant fields and hils. At this day there is no building standing but the said Tower, and a poore miserable Inne to lodge passengers. But among the shrubs there be many ruines of houses, and of a bridge, and this place was of old called Linternum, whether Scipio the Affrican retired into voluntary banishment, to flie the enuy of the vngratefull Romans, and there he built him a stately Pallace, and a sepulcher in which he would be buried; saying that the vngratefull Romans should not haue so much as his bones. Liuy in his twenty two Booke cals Linternum a sandy soyle, beyond Vulturnus from Rome: but Leander thinkes that hee spake this of the territory, not of the place it selfe; and that the rather, because in his twenty three Booke, he writes; that Sempronius the Consull, did lead the forces to Lintcrnum beyond Vulturnus, and there doth agree in the situation thereof with all writers; and the sharpe fountaine like vineger, whereof Pliny writes, is found among these ruines, which water he saith makes them drunken that drinke thereof, though others write that they haue taken it moderately without any such effect. Pliny also writes, that this water moderately taken, hath the vertue to cure the head-ach. While Scrpio liued here in solitude, Liuy and Plutarke write, that certaine bold and valiant Pirats, vpon the fame of his vertue, came to see the face, & heare the words of so great a Captaine. Liuy in his thirty eight Booke, writes that he did see two sepulchers of Scipio, this at Linternum, and the other at Rome, neere the gate Capena, both decked with carued Images; and that these verses were written vpon his Tombe at Linternum;

Leander thinkes that Scipio was buried in this place, aswell because Liuy writes it; as for the words of Scipio related by Valerius Maximus, that his vngratefull Countrey should not haue so much as his bones. And he thinks that the monument at Rome was either built by Scipio in the time of his prosperity, or by his friends long after, in memory of so worthy a kinse man. As we walked from Cuma to Linternum, we did see no memorable thing, but tooke this iourney onely out of desire to see the monument of this famous man, neither did we know the danger from banished men in this place, who often resort to this poore Inne; yet for that cause this way from Naples to Rome, more commodious then the other, and therefore hauing post-masters appointed there for publike affaires, had long beene forsaken by passengers. This way to Rome is thus distinguished into miles. From Naples to la Patria sixteene miles, to la Rocca foureteene, to la Fratta eighteene, to Ponte Curto, ten, to Capetano eight, to Frusalone eighteen, to Piedauani three, to val'di Montone twenty two, to la Ficha foureteene, to Rome eight. There is no house at Linternum but the foresaid base Inne, and there we lodged, and found not our supper answerable to the fruitfulnesse of Campania, neither had we any beds, and could hardly get cleane straw, which inconueniences were accompanied with the feare to be surprised by the banished men, so as we slept not one winke that night. Here we did see two Towers, one compassed with water, and neere the Tower della Patria, we did see the ruines of a stately Pallace, which they said was the Pallace of Scipio, and that he was buried there. Also we did see a pillar, vpon which were the Armes engrauen of the Kings of Spaine and Naples, and we did see the ruines of a bridge, which shewed the old magnificence thereof. But there was nothing to be seene, that might counteruaile the danger we had runne. Our iourney the day before from Naples to Baie was very pleasant, through most fruitfull hils of corne and vincs. But from Cuma to this Tower, the way vpon the sea shore was wild and barren, yet not farre distant within land we might fee most pleasant and fruitfull hils.

When we had passed a night without sleepe at Linternum, we returned early in the morning to Naples, by the same way we came, but with a more right linc. And there I made no stay, because England then had warres with Spaine, but tooke the next opportunity to returne to Rome with the Carrier, after the same fashion I came hither; and I paied to my Vetturine fifty two poli for my horse and horse-meat, and my owne diet from Naples to Rome, and beyond my couenant (to gratifie him) I was content to pay for my diet the first and last meale, which I promised of my owne free will, yet should haue beene forced thereunto, for otherwise he would haue carried me fasting to Rome, and haue giuen me slender diet at Capua, being a plentifull place; and I obserued the other passengers to doè the like in these places, where they were out of danger.

I passe ouer the iournies, (which I haue discribed before, and wil only say in a word, that we returned to Rome, where that I might stay with more security, to see the antiquities Rome. thereof, it hapned very fitly, that the Cardinall Allan an Englishman, hauing vsed to persecute the English comming thither, and therefore being ill spoken of by them, had changed his mind, since the English had ouerthrowne the Spanish Nauy, in the yeere 1588. and there was now small hope of reducing England to papistry, and therefore to gaine his Country-mens loue did not onely mislike that they should be intrapped at Rome, but did himselfe protect them, though suspected for religion, so they would seeke his fauour: whereof I being aduertised by the experience of others, when I had in silence, and through many dangers seene Naples subiect to the King of Spaine, and was now returned to Rome, I presently went to the said Cardinall, and after the fashion, hauing kissed the hemme of his vesture, I humbly desired, that according to this his curtesie, for which hee was much honoured in England, hee would receiue mee into his protection, till I might view the antiquities of Rome. He being of a goodly stature and countenance with a graue looke and pleasant speech bad me rest secure, so I could commaund my tongue, and should abstaine from oftence. Onely for his duties sake, hee said, that he must aduise me, and for the loue of his Countrey intreate me, that I would be willing to heare those instructions for religion here, which I could not heare in England. I submitted my selfe to these conditions, and when (after due reuerence made) I would haue gone away, the English Gentlemen and Priests there present, ouertooke me in the next roome. Among these was an Englishman, a Priest of Calabria, who in my iourney from Naples hither, had been my consort by the way, at the table, and euen in bed, whom I had often heard talking with the Italians of English affaires, but more modestly and honestly then any man would expect of a Priest. He taking my selfe and one Master Warmington an English Gentleman by the hands, with an aftonished looke, did congratulate with me, that I, who had bin his companion at bed and boord, and whom he had taken rather for any countriman, was now become an English man. All the rest commended my iudgement, in comming to the Cardinall, and inquiring after my lodging, promised to be my guides in Rome, and for Countries sake, to doe me a good offices, and so after mutuall salutations, I went from them. I well knew, that such guides would be very troublesome to me, for they (according to the manner) disputing of Religion, I must either seeme to consent by silence, or maintaine arguments ful of danger in that place, besides that to gratifie them for their courtesie, I must needes haue runne into extraordinary expences. Therefore hauing told them my lodging, I presently changed it, and tooke a chamber in a vitling house, in the Market-place, close vnder the Popes Pallace, where I thought they, or any else would least seeke mee, and so being free from that burthen, and yet secure in the Cardinals promised protection, I began boldly, (yet with as much hast as I possibly could make) to view the Antiquities of Rome.

I. Il Borgo. II. Trasteuere. III. l'Isola. IIII. The Gate del popolo. V. The gate Pinciana. VI. The gate Salara. VII. The gate Pia. VIII. The gate di San' Lorenzo. IX. g. Maggiore. X. g. di S. Gionanni. XI. g. Latina. XII. g. di S. Sebastiano. XIII. g. di S. Paolo. XIV. g. di. Ripa. XV g. di. S. Pancratio. XVI. g. Settimiana. XVII. g. di S. Spirito. XVIII. g. Fornac: XIX. g. la portusa. XX. g. di Belucdere. XXI. g. di S. Angelo. XXII. Monte Capitalino. XXIII. M. Palatino. XXIIII. M. Auentino. XXV. M. Coelio. XXVI. M. Esquilino. XXVII. M. Viminale XXVIII. M. Quirinale. XXIX. M. Vaticano XXX. M. Ianiculo XXXI. M. Pincio XXXII. M. Citorio. XXXIII. M. Iordano. XXXIIII. M. Testaceo. XXXV. The bridge di S. Angelo. XXXVI. b. Vaticano XXXVII. b. Sisto. XXXVIII. b. di quatro Capi. XXXIX. b. di S. Maria. XL. b. di S. Bartolomco. XLI. b. Sublicio. A. The Church of S. Giouanni Lateran'. B. C. of S. Pietro. C. C. of S. Maria Maggiore. D. C. of S. Croce in Hierosolyma. Q. The Pallace of the Pope. 3. Beluedere. 4. Castel' di S. Angelo. 5. l'obelisco di Ginlio Cesare. 6. The sepulcher di Cestio. 7. Circus Maximus. 8. The Church of S. Stefano rotondo. 9. Trofei di Mario. 10. lacolonna di Traiano. 11. la colonna d' Antonio. 12. The Church of S. Maria srpra la Minerua. 13. C. di S. Maria rotonda. 14. The Market-place Nanona. 15. C. di S. Maria della consolatione. 16. The Market place di Fiori. 17. C. de la Trinita. 18. C. di S. Rocco. 19. The Bath of Dioclesian. 20. le sette sale. 21. The Arch of Constantine. 22. The Arch of Vespasian. 23. The Arch of Septimius Seuerus. 24. The Theater of Marcellus. 25. The Pallace of the Cardinall di Farnese.

Rome being situated on the East side of Tiber, may further bee distinguished into three parts seated on the West side of Tiber, whereof the first is called (I) Il Borgo, and it containeth the Popes Pallace, compassed with high walles by Pope Nicholas the fifth, and the Garden thereof, which of the faire prospect is called Beluedere, and the Librarie, and the Church of Saint Peter In vaticano, and the field or Market-place lying before the Church, and the strong Castle Saint Angelo, all which were compassed with walles by Pope Leo the fourth, and for a time this part was of him called Leonina, but now it is called Il Borgo. The second part is called (II) Trasteuere that is beyond the Tiber, and was called of old I anicolo, of the Mountaine included therein; and also was called the Citie of the men of Rauenna, of the Souldiers which Augustus kept at Raucnna against Anthony, and after placed them here. And because the aire is vnwholesome, as the winde is that blowes heere from the South, it is onely inhabited by Artisans and poore people. And at this day it is compassed with walles, which seeme ancient, saue that it lies open towards the Tiber and Rome, and it is adorned with Churches and buildings, but much seuered one from the other. The third part is called (III) l' Isola, that is an Iland of Tiber, which of old was called Licaonia, of the Temple of Iupiter of Licaonta. When Tarquinius the proud was of old banished from Rome, the people abhorring to conuert the goods of such a wicked man to priuate vses, did make his ground a field for training of souldiers, and called it Campus Martius, and the Senate commanded the great store of his corne, chaffe, and straw, to bee cast into the Tyber, of which matter growing together, they say this Iland first came. After a Temple was built in this Iland, to Esculapius, brought hither from Epidaurus in the shape of a Serpent; and the Ile being consecrated to him, was then made in the forme of the ship that brought that serpent, whereof there is a monument in the Garden of Saint Bartholmew, namely a stone in the forme of a ship with a Serpent grauen vpon it. It is a quarter of a mile in length, and some fiftie paces in bredth, and it is full of stately Churches and houses.

If you draw a line from the East-side of the Mountaine Capitolino (XXII) to the Gate del popolo, (IIII) lying towards the North; and from the said Mountaine draw aline to the furthest part of the Bridge vpon the West side of the Iland of Tyber, this compasse may truly be called Rome, as at this day it is inhabited; for the rest lies wilde, hauing only ruines, and some scattered Churches and houses, and towards the South, fieldes of corne within the walles. They say, that Romulus did onely build vpon three Mountaines, the Palatine, the Capitoline, and the Celian, yet others adde the Esquiline, and that he compassed them with walles, and that he built the Gate Carmentalis, so called of the mother of Euander, which lies vnder the Capitoll vpon the right hand betweene the rock Tarpeius and the Riuer Tiber, and was also called the cursed Gate, of the 300 Fabij, which went out of the same to fight, and were all killed in one day. And that he built the Roman Gate lying neere the Mount Pallatine, towards the Amphitheater, called Obelisco, and the Gate Pandana, so called, because it was alwaies open. After, seuen Mountaines being inclosed, Rome had eight Gates, and after thirtie foure (as Liuy writes), and at last thirtie seuen Gates.

At this day the first Gate is called (IIII) delpopolo, lying on the East-side of Tiber towards the North, which of the Riuer was of old called Flumentana, and of the way of Flaminius, to which it did leade, was called Flaminia. The second Gate is called (V) Pinciana, of a Senator of that name, and of old was called Collatina of a Pallace adioyning, and it is a mile distant from the former Gate. The third Gate is called (VI) la Salarta, of salt brought in that way, and was of old called Quirinalis, of the Temple, or the Mountaine adioyning of the same name, and also called Agona of a Mountaine, or as hauing no corner; and also called Collina of a Hill, and it is lesse then a mile distant from the last named Gate. The fourth Gate is called (VII) la Pia, of Pope Pius the fourth, who repaired it, and the way without it, and it is more then halfe a mile distant from the last named Gate. At this day it is many times called Saint Agnese of a Church lying neere it. And it was of old called Viminalis of Oseyres growing there, and also called Figulensis of Potters dwelling there, and also called of old Numentina of a Castle. I will omit the Gate, of old called Inter Aggeres, because almost no ruines therof remaine at this day. The fifth Gate is called (VIII) di S. Lorenzo of the Church neere it. It was of old called Tiburtina (though others think that Gate was neerer to Tyber on this side) and Esquilina of a place neere it, and Taurina of a bulles head which still is grauen vpon it; and it is a mile and a halfe distant from the last named Gate. The sixth Gate is called (IX) Maggiore, and was of old called Neuia, and Labicana, and Praenestina. The seuenth is called (X) dt S. Giouanni, and it was of old called Caelemontana of a Mountaine, and Quercotulana of an Oake, and Settimia, and Asinaria. The eighth is called (XI) Latina of Latium to which it leades, and was of old called Firentina, and is more then a mile distant from the seuenth Gate. The ninth from the eighth more then halfe a mile distant, is called (XII) di S. Sebastiano, of the Church to which it leades, and was of old called Capena of the Citie or Riuer of that name; and also Camena of a Church, and Appia of the way which Appius the Censor paued, and Fontinale of the Fountaines; and some write it was called Trionfale for part of the Triumphes that did enter there. And the brother of the Horatij escaping in the fight against the brothers Curiatij, did returne at this Gate: without the same is the Sepulcher of Scipio the Africane, whereof I spake describing Linternum neere Naples (where he would be buried, farre from his vngratefull Countrey). The tenth Gate is called (XIII) di S. Paolo of the Church whither it leades, and was of old called Trigemina of the 3 Horatij going out there, and called Ostiensis, as leading to Ostia where Tyber runs into the Sea, and it is a mile from the 〈◊〉 Gate, and as much distant from the Riuer Tyber. The eleuenth Gate lies on the West side of Tyber, in that part of the Citie which I said is called (II) Trasteuere, and is distant from Tyber halfe a quarter of a mile, being called (XIIII) di ripa, and was of old called Portuensis, as leading to the Hauen of Rome, made by the Emperour Claudius. The twelfth Gate almost a mile distant from the former, is called (XV) di S. Pancratio, and of old was called Aurelia of Aurelius the Emperor, or of the way Aurelia, and of others called Pancratiana, and it lieth neere the Mountaine Ianiculo. The thirteenth Gate halfe a mile distant from the former, is called (XVI) Settimiana, of the Emperour Settimius, whose name is engrauen vpon it, & it was repaired by Pope Alexander the sixth. Some think this Gate was called Fontinale, others Festinale, and it is the last Gate in Trasieuere. The fourteenth Gate is called (XVII) di S. Spirito and it is the first in that part of the Citie called (I) Borgo. The fifteenth gate is called in the map (XVIII) Fornacum, but I find it called by Writers del Torrione, and Posterula, and to be repaired by Pope Nicholas the fifth. The sixtenth Gate is called (XIX) la Portusa, being neete to the Popes stables. The seuententh is called (XX) di Beluedere, lying neere the Popes Pallace and (3) Garden, and it is called in some Mapps Angelica, and by others Giulia, of the Pope Giulius. The eightenth is called (XXI) di S. Angelo, and delCastello of the Castle S. Angelo, and it was of old called Enea, and more lately di Cenello. I passe ouer the Gate called of old la Trionfante, where the greatest triumphs did enter, because no ruines remaine thereof, but onely it is said to haue bin seated neere the Triumphall Bridge. (XXXVI)

It remaines to speake of the waies leading to Rome, which I will note with the letters of the Gates leading to them. And first I will onely name the wayes that are within the walles.

The first la Suburra begins at the Amphitheater, called Coliseo (20), and leades to the Church Saint Lucia in Orsia. The second la Sacra, lies from the Arch of Constantine (21) to the Arch of Vespasian (22), through Forum Romanum (23), to the Capitol (XXII.) The third la Nuoua, did leade from the greater Pallace in Mount Palatine (XXIII) to the Bath of Antonius in Mount Auentine (XXIIII). The fourth la Trionfale, did leade from the Mount Vaticano (XXIX), to the Capitol in the Mount (XXII) Capitolino. The fifth la via retta, was in the Campius Martius, where is la colonna di Traiano (10).

The Frier Leander describing Rome, nameth twentie nine waies within and without the walles namely, 1. Appia. 2. Latina. 3. Labicana. 4. Campana. 5. Praenestina. 6. Cumana. 7. Flaminia. 8. Cassia. 9. Tiburtina. 10. Collatina. 11. Nomentana. 12. Salaria. 13. Emilia. 14. Portuesen. 15. Cornelia. 16. Claudia. 17. Valeria. 18. Ostiensis. 19. Laurentina. 20. Ardeatina. 21. Galica. 22. Tiberina. 23. Settimia. 24. Quintia. 25. Gallicana. 26. Triumphalie. 27. Praetoriana. 28. Laticulesen. 29. Aureliana. And vpon these waies hee relates many stately Pallaces built out of the Citie. Now I will note the waies without the Gates by the same letters, by which I haue noted the Gates leading to them. Among these the most famous is the way of Appius, called the Queene of waies, most part of the chiefe Triumphes entring that way. It begins at the Gate of Saint (XII) Sebastian, and is paued to Capua, and then deuided into two waies, that on the left hand leading to Brundusium, and that on the right hand leading to Pozzoli and to Cuma, hauing stately Pallates on all sides, and it hath the name of Appius Claudius the Censor. In this way two miles from the Citie the Romans built a Temple in memory of Hannibal who incamping there, was forced to raise his siege with disgrace. The way of Flamintus is no lesse famous, which lies from the Pillar of Antoninus (11) to the Gate (IIII) del popolo, and did leade to Rim. ni vpon the Adriatique Sea, and part of it was called Quincia, and it was ioyned with the way called Claudia, and of old was called the large way. Where the way of Flaminius endes, there begins the way AEmilia, made by his fellow Consul AEmilius, Lepidus, leading to Bologna, and paued to the very Alpes. Yet there is another way of the same name neere Pisa. The way Collatina is without the Gate (V) Pinciana; the way Salaria without the Gate (VI) Salaria; the way Tihurtina without the Gate (VIII) Saint Lorenzo, the way Praenestina without the Gate (IX) Maggiore, on the left hand or East-side; and the way Labicana on the right hand or South-side of the same Gate. In the way Praenestina is the stately Conduit, or Aqueduct of Pope Sixtus Quintus, extending it selfe many miles vpon the next Plaine, where lie the ruines no lesse wonderfull, whereof I spake in my iourney from Rome to Naples. To conclude, the way Latina is without the Gate (XI) Latina; the way Ostiensis without the Gate Saint (XIII) Paolo; the way Aurelia without the Gate (XV) Saint Pancratio; which (if I be not deceiued) was called also the way Vitelia, paued from the Mount Ianiculo to the Sea. But who would not wonder, that from the Gate (XIX) Portusa, the way should leade into the Valley of Hell (for so it is called), close to the holy Seate of the Popes.

Rome was of old called Septicollis, of seuen Hilles, or little Mountaines contained within the walles, namely Capitolinus, Palatinus, Auentinus, Celius, Esquilinus, Viminalis, and Quirinalis. Hereof the first and chiefe is (XXII) Capitolinus, of old called Saturnius, of the Citie Saturnia, and Tarpeius of the Virgin Terpeia, which betraying her Countrey to the Sabines, giuing them entrance at that place, was for reward there killed by them. And at last in the raigne of Tarquin the proud, it was called Capitolinus of a head digged out of the ground. At this day it is vulgarly called Il Capidoglio. It is diuided into two parts, namely, the Capitolium, and the Rocke Tarpeius, lying on the Northside of the hil. And it had sixty Churches, wherof the chiese was of old dedicated Ioni Optimo Maximo, where the Triumphers vsed to giue thanks for victory, and to offer rich spoiles to Iupiter. And it was adorned with the stately building of the Capitolium, and with many stately Palaces of noble men. The second Mount is called (XXIII) Palatinus, of Palantus, Grand-father to Euander, (among many diuers opinions following Virgil). At this day it is vulgarly called Palazzo Maggiore, and it is a mile in circuit, but is not at all inhabited. And vpon the side lying towards the Circus, they shew a little house in the place where Romulus dwelt, onely preserued in memory of him. And vpon this Mount Catilina and Catullus and Cicero did dwell. The third mountaine was called (XXIIII) Auentinus, of birds, by whose flight they vsed to prophecy, or of the King Auentinus. And it was of old called Romorio, of a place in the top, where they obserued the flight of the birds, and it hath two miles in compasse. The fourth Mount is (XXV) Celius, of Celius King of Hetruria, and was of old called Querquetulanus, of a Wood of Oakes. And a little Mountaine being part of it, is vulgarly called Celiolus, where I shall shew the Church of Saint Iohn the Euangelist to bee seated. Vpon this Mountaine was the house of Scipio the Africane, neere the Church of Saint George. The fifth Mountaine was called (XXVI) Esquilinus, or Esquilia, of the guard of the Pretorian souldiers, or of the fragments of meate cast there to feede hawkes. It reacheth from the Market-place of Traian, to the Baths of Dioclesian, and the Gate of S. Lorenzo, and the monument of Marius, vulgarly called I Trofei. And at this day it is called Cespius, and they say, that Virgil dwelt vpon this Mountaine. The sixth Mount was called (XXVII) Viminalis, being long and narrow; and some say it is part of the Mount Esquiline, but all writers generally reckon it among the seuen hills, and it had the name of the Church of Iupiter Viminius, so called of the Oseyers growing there, and they say Marcus Crassus dwelt vpon this Mountaine. The seuenth Mount was called (XXVIII (Quirinalis of the Quirites, or Senators dwelling there, or of the Speare of Iuno, and it was also called Egonus. At this day it is vulgarly called Monte Cauallo There be two other Mountaines beyond the Tyber, which are seated in Toscany, not in Latium; for Leander makes all the places most neere to Rome on this side to belong to Hetrurta. The first of these Mountes is called (XXIX) Vaticanus, of the crying of an infant, or of a god of that name, as Gellius writes, which god was the god of prophecies. Pope Leo the fourth compassed this Hill and the next field with walles, and called it Leonina, but at this day it is called Il Borgo. The other Mount beyond Tyber was called (XXX) I aniculus of I anus dwelling and buried there, and is now vulgarly called Mortorio. Within the walls of Rome there bee some other Hills or little Mountaines, but lesse famous. The first is called (XXXI) Pincius, and vulgarly de li hortuli, reaching to the Gate Salaria. The second was called (XXXII) Citorius, and of old Citaterius of the Tribes descending from thence to chuse Magistrates, as those that were sutors to be Magistrates descended from the Mount Pincius, and went into Campus Martius. The third Mount lesse and more obscure, is called (XXXIII) I or danus, of the family Orsini, who at this day haue their Pallaces vpon it. The fourth Mountlesse and obscure is called (XXXIIII) Testaceus, of earthen pots, for the Potters of old dwelt there, and the images and vessels of the Temples were for the most part of earth. And when the dead bodies were burned, the ashes were laied vp in these vessels, whereupon a heape grew to a Hill, and a Hill to a Mount. Many doe falsely thinke, that it had the name of such vessels, in which tribute was brought to Rome, and then the vessels were broken here.

Of old eight bridges were built ouer Tyber, among which is reckoned Pons Miluius, vulgarly Ponte Mole, without the gate (IIII) Delpopolo more then a mile distant from Rome, and neere this bridge Constantine the Great, vnder the signe of the Crosse did ouercome the tyrant Maxentius. Also this bridge was famous for the night lusts of Nero. The second bridge is called (XXXV) di Castel' Sant' Angelo, and it was of old called Elius, of the Emperour Elius Adrianus, who built it; but Pope Nicholas the fifth built it as now it stands, and set vpon it the Image of Saint Peter with his keyes, and of Saint Paul with his sword. The third bridge is called (XXXVI) Vaticanus, as leading to that Mount, and was also of old called Triumphalis, of the Triumphes passing vpon it, and it was not lawfull for the Countrey people to enter that way, but at this day onely the ruines thereof are seene. The fourth bridge is called (XXXVII) Ponte-Sisto of Pope Sixtus the fourth, who repaired it. It was of old called Ianiculonsis of that Mount, and Aurelius of the way of that name, and it was built of marble by Antoninus Pius, and after being decaied, was long called Ponte Rotto, that is, the broken bridge, till the said Pope repaired it in the yeere 1475. and it is two hundred and fifteene foote broad, and is built vpon three Arches of stone. The fifth bridge ioining Rome and the Iland, and next to the Capitolium, is called (XXXVIII) Ponte at quattro Capt, and was of old called Tarpeius, of the Rocke Tarpcia, which is in the Mount Capitolino, and was called Fabricius of the repairer, and it is seuenty foot long, and hath but one Arch of stone. The sixth bridge of a Church neere it is called (XXXIX) di S. Maria AEgittiaca, and was of old called Scnatorim and Palatinus, and it is somewhat longer then the bridge Sisto. The seuenth bridge of a Church neere it is called (XL) di S. Bartolomeo, and it is opposite to the fifth bridge, and ioineth the Iland with that part of Rome called Trasteuere, and of old it was called Psquilinus, and Cestius, and it is sixty foot long, hauing but one Arch of stone. The eight bridge at the foot of the Mount Auentine, was of old called (XLI) Sublicius, because it was built of wood, in the warre with the Tuscanes, that it might be more easily broken and repaired. And we read that the Tuscanes being Victors, had taken Rome, if Horatius Cocles had not defended the bridge, till it was broken downe behind him, which done, he saued himselfe by swimming. After that Emilius Lepidus built this bridge of stone, and called it Emilius; and when it was broken with floods, first the Emperour Tyberius repaired it, and then Antoninus Pius built it very high of marble, & condemned men were cast from it into the water. This bridge being the first that was built ouer Tyber, now is not to be seene by any ruines.

Rome by the great power of the Emperours, and since of the Popes, hath beene long most famous, and was first built in Latium vpon Tyber, fifteene miles from the Tyrrhene sea, (as the Greekes write) by Ascanius, Eurilantes, Romulus, and Remus, Nephewes to AEneas, or (as other Greekes write) by the Achiui, or (as other Greekes write) by the sonnes of Roma, a woman of Troy, married to the Latine King of the Aborigenes, which sonnes were Romulus and Remus, or (as Xenagoras writes) by the sonne of Vlisses by Circe, to omit many other opinions of the Greekes. The Latine Historians doe no lesse vary. Some say it was built by the sonnes of AEneas, namely, Romulus and Remus. Others say that Ascanius built Alba, and Remus built Capua, and Romulus built Ianiculum, after called Rome. But I omit these diuers opinions, and will follow Leander the Fryar, who saith that Rome the daughter of the King in Italy, built Rome the same yeere that Moses was borne. And when the City had beene long forsaken, for the vnwholsome ayre of the Fennes adioining, that Euander comming from Arcadia into Italy, seated himselfe vpon the Mount Palatine, and built a City called Palantium, of his City in Arcadia, and he being dead, that Hercules comming with an Army, left some of his consorts here, who built vpon the Mount of Saturnius, after called Capitolinus. Before the destruction of Troy, for the vnwholsome aire, Rome being againe forsaken, that the Albani began to dwell there in Cottages, and seed their flockes there. For by the continuall ouer flowings of Tyber, the field was made fenny, and the aire vnwholsome; but Historians write that vpon sacrifices made to God Vertuno, these Fennes by little and little were dried vp. Hee adde that Amulius tooke the Kingdome of the Albani from his brother Numiter, whose daughter Rhea a Vestall Virgin being great with child by Amulius, Mars, or any other, brought forth Romulus and Remus, and Amulius left them by Tyber to perish in the waters, but a shee wolfe sed them, and after Faustulus ouerseer of al the flocks and cattell of Amulius, tooke them home, who comming to ripe yeeres killed Amulius, and restored their Grand-father Numitor to his Kingdome: but themselues being desirous to build a City vpon the Mount Palatine, at the foote whereof they had been cast out, Romulus drew with a plow the circuit of the Citie, of a quadrangular forme, in the 430. yeere after the destruction of Troy, and in the yeere of the World 3211. He gaue Mount Celius to be inhabited by Celius King of Toseany, aiding him against the Sabines, and then taking by force the Sabine weomen, and they making peace betweene them, he gaue to Tatius and his Sabines for their dwelling the Mountaines Capitolinus and Quirinalis, and to his brother Remus the Mount Auentinus, and kept for himselfe and his men the Mountaines Palatinus and Esquilinus, till the rest being dead, himselfe alone became Lord of all. The seuen rockes were of old called seuen hils, hauing a pleasant plaine betweene them and Tyber: and this circuit is in forme of a bent bowe, the Tyber standing for the string. Romu'us made the City foure square, but he being dead, Ancus Martius inclosed the Mount Ianiculus beyond Tyber, and Seruius inclosed other Mounts on this side of the Tyber. Six Kings raigned two hundred forty three yeeres in Rome, and Torquine being banished, it became a popular State, wherein Consuls yeerely chosen did gouerne, and eight hundred eighty seuen Consuls, in foure hundred sixty foure yeeres, by forty three battels obtained the Empire almost of the whole world. In the meane time the Decemuiri (that is tenne men) ruled for two yeeres, and the Tribunes for Military affaires, hauing Consular power, ruled forty three yeeres, and in the time of any difficult warre, a Dictator was chosen, who with absolute power ruled till that businesse was ended, and there were no Magistrates for foure yeeres. At last Iulius Caesar with the title of perpetuall Dictator, inuaded the Empire, which being after diuided into the Orientall and Occidentall Empire, and the Occidentall being destroied by the incursions of barberous Nations, the Bishops of Rome by little and little cast their Orientall Lords out of Italy, and erected a new Occidentall Empire in France, that they might inuade the power of the Roman Emperors, and of the heauenly iurisdiction vpon earth, vnder pretext of Religion, by a new monster of a Roman wit, drawne from the supremacy of the Apostle Saint Peter.

Pliny in his time makes the circuit of Rome twenty miles, and Vopiscus in the time of the Emperour Aurelius, makes the circuit fifty miles, but he ioyned to Rome all the neighbour villages. At this day if you adde to Rome the two parts beyond Tyber, called Trasteuere and Borgo, the circuit at the most is fifteene miles, for others say thirteene or fourteene, besides that a very great part of this circuit within the walles is not inhabited: and the walles not withstanding lie not vpon their old foundations, neither are built of that matter, but as it pleased those who repaired them. Among which Belisarius gouernour of Italy, vnder the Emperour Iustinian, built Rome demolished by the Gothes, and made the circuit of the walles lesse; and Pope Adrian the first, a Roman, the wals being fallen, built them as now they stand, and many of his successours haue since added new ornaments to decaied Rome. But the old wals (as appeares by some ruines) were built of foure square stone, the rest are of diuers building, as it pleased the repairers, and haue a bricke gallery to walke vpon, vnder which men may stand dry when it raines; and they being ready to fal with age, haue many round Towers, which in like sort are ready to fall. Rome at this day is troubled with the old ouerflowings of Tyber, by reason of the Tybers narrow bed, not able to receiue the waters, falling suddenly from neere mountaines, after great raine or melting of snow. For memory whereof, these inscriptions are vpon the wals of the Church of Saint Mary sopra Minerua. In the yeere 1530. (if I be not deceiued; for the first words are raced out) the Ides of October, Clement the seuenth being Pope.

And there in another place this verse is written, in the yeere MVD.

In each place is a red marke vpon the wals how high the water ascended, by which it appeares, marking the seat of the Church, that all the plaine was ouerflowed betweene it and the Tyber. By reason of these flouds, and for that the City is built vpon the caues of old Rome, (which makes the foundations to be laid with great charge) and also by reason of the vapours rising from the Baths, the aire of Rome is at this day vnwholsome. The Romans drinke raine water, and the troubled waters of Tyber, kept in Cesternes, and they bragge that it is proper to the water or Tyber, the longer it is kept to grow more pure. Surely strangers doe not like that water, howsoeuer the Romans (making a vertue of necessity) doe say that it was onely made good to drinke at Rome, and no where els, by the blessing of Pope Gregory the Great.

Now being to describe the antiquities of Rome, I will first set downe out of order the seuen Churches, famous for the indulgences of Popes, which they say were built by the Emperour Constantine the Great. Then I will set downe the rest in due order, as they are seated: And because I finished in hast the view of Rome in foure daies, I will distinguish the Antiquities into foure daies iournies.

The first day being to visit these seuen Churches, by reason of their distance, and the hast we made, I and my consorts hired each of vs a mule, each man for two poli, and we neuer found our errour till the euening, when we demanding the way of a man of meane sort, he replied thus with some anger; What doe you ride to heauen, and we poore wretches goe on foote without shooes to visit these holy Churches. By this we found our errour, and were glad that we had passed that day without further danger. In generall these Churches are bare on the Inside, without any pictures, except some few about the Altars. This day we first rode to the chiefe Church, (A) dt S. Giouanni Laterano, seated vpon Mount Celius, and built by Constantine the Great, in his Pallace, and it hath a stately Font, in which that Emperour was baptized; and in the Church there be foure most faire pillars of brasse. The Church is sustained by foure rowes of bricke pillars, and there hang certaine banners taken from the French, and neere the doore the Popes, Sergius the fourth, and Siluester the second, are buried in low monuments. In the Church yard are old sepulchers, and little pillars of marble. Neere to this Church lie those holy staires, whereof I spake in my iourney from Rome to Naples, when our Italian consorts went to pray for a happy iourney, kneeling without the grates. But they that will haue the grates opened, to pray there, vse to creepe vpon their knees from staire to staire, and vpon each staire to say a pater noster, and Aue Maria. These staires are twenty six in number, diuided into three rowes, and they be of marble, vulgarly called Scale Sante, and were brought from the house of Pilate in Hierusalem. It is not safe for him to inquire after relikes, who will not worship them: yet to satisfie the curious, I will set downe the chiefe by beare-say. Here they shew a tooth of Saint Peter; a Cup in which Saint Iohn dranke poyson at the command of Demitian, and had no hurt. The cloth with which Christ dried his Disciples feet, the heads of Peter and Paul, the rodde of Aaron, the Arke of the couenant, the table at which Christ supped; three marble gates of Pilates house, the Image of Christ being twelue yeeres old, with the like. Part of these (they say) were brought from Hierusalem by the Emperour Titus, yet he was no Christian, nor like to regard the monuments of Christ. One Chappell of this Church is called, Sanctum Sanctorum, and is thought to haue beene the Chamber of Constantine, neither may any woman enter it. To conclude, the place is shewed here, in which many counsels haue beene held, and the Popes long dwelt here, before the Pallace in the Vaticane was built.

The Church of (B) Saint Peter in the Mount Vaticano, ioines to the Popes Pallace, they say it was built by Constantine the Great. The Popes haue giuen full remission of sinnes to them that pray here vpon certaine daies, and like remission for certaine yeeres sinnes, praying on other daies; and the remission of the third part of all sinnes, praying there vpon Saint Peters euen. And you must vnderstand that all these Churches haue some like indulgences. Here they shew the bodies of Saint Simeon, and Saint Iude the Apostle, and Saint Iohn Chrysostome, and of Pope Saint Gregory the Great: and the head of Saint Andrew and of Saint Luke the Euangelist, and halfe the bodies of Saint Peter and Saint Paul, and Christs face printed vpon the hand-kercher of Veronica, and the head of the speare thrust into the side of Christ, and among many pillars brought from Hierusalem, one vpon which Christ leaned, when he did preach and cast out Diuels, which yet hath power (as they say) to cast out Diuels. Alwaies vnderstand that in Italy Priests that cast out Diuels, are most frequent, neither are they wanting in any place where the Papists can hide their impostures. Great part of these relikes they say were sent by the Turkish Emperour to Pope Innocent the eight. But I omit these things, into which none but Papists may safely inquire, and returne to the monuments which lie open to euery mans view. The Chappell is most rich in which Gregory the xiij. lies, and the stately sepulcher of Pope Paul the third hath most faire statuaes. The statua of Saint Peter of brasse placed vnder the Organs, was of old erected to Iupiter Capitolinus. In the Court of the Church (for I cannot call it a Church-yard) the Emperour Otho the second lies buried, in a low sepulcher of Porphry. There is a most faire Pineaple of brasse, guilded, more then fiue cubites high, which they say was brought hither from the monument of the Emperour Andrian, in the place where the Castle of Saint Angelo now stands, (as likewise the Peacockes were brought from the Monument of Scipio.)

The third Church of St Paul is without the (XIII) gate of St Paul, about a mile from the City, in the way to Ostia, and they say it was built by Constantine, and it stands vppon eighty eight pillars of marble, in foure rowes, each pillar being but one stone, and it is adorned with marble staires, and pictures Alla Mosaica, as if they were engrauen, which are onely in the chancell and neere the doore. The Popes haue giuen great indulgences to these Churches, as well as to others. They shew here the bodies of Saint Timothy, Saint Celsus, and Sant Iulian, Disciples to Saint Paul, and halfe the bodies of Saint Peter and St Paul, and a Crucifix which of old spake to Saint Briget, the Queene of Sueuia, and many armes and fingers of Saints. Neere this Church is that of Saint Anastatius, where the head of Saint Paul being cut off, made three leapes, and in the place where it fell, they say there sprang vp three fountaines, which are there to bee seene.

The fourth Church of Saint (C) Mary Maggiore, is vpon the Mount Esquiline: I will omit hence forward the indulgences and relikes, lest I be tedious. This Church is adorned with forty pillars of Marble. The rich Chappell di praesepio, (so called of the cratch in which Christ was borne, being kept here) is stately adorned with the pauement engraued, the arched roofe guilded, pictures Alla Mosaica as if they were engrauen, the stately sepulcher of Pope Nicholas, and his statua of white marble. The Chappell of Pius Qutntus, built for him after his death by Sixtus the fifth, is adorned with the Victory painted in golden letters, which he and his confederates had by sea against Selimus Emperour of the Turkes, and is adorned with statuaes guilded, with foure Angels guilded, and precious stones, together with the rare Art of engrauers and Painters.

The fifth Church S. Lorenzo, is without the (VIII) gate of that name, in the way to Tiburtina, something more then a mile from the City, and it is said to be built by Constantine the Great. He that goes to this Church euery wednesday in a whole yeere, shall deliuer a soule from Purgatory, if the Pope keepe his promise. It is adorned with a Pulpit of white marble, and most faire ophite stones, and at the doore, with a sepulcher of Saint Eustacius, of white marble curiously carued, and another sepulcher opposite to that.

The sixth Church S. Sebastiano, is without the (XII) gate of that name, more then a mile out of the City, in the way of Appius. Here is a place called Catacombe, and there is a well, in which they say the bodies of Saint Paul and Saint Peter did lie vnknowne a long time, and here is a way vnder earth to the Church yard of Calixtus, where they say the Christians lav hid, in the times of persecution; and that there were found 174. thousand which had beene made Martyres, and that eight of these were Bishops of Rome. Here on all sides with amazement I beheld the ruines of old buildings, and the sepulcher of the Emperour Aurelius is not farre from this Church.

The seuenth Church (D) di S. Croce in Gierusalem, is seated between the gate Maggiore, & the gate S. Giouanni, vpon the Mount Celius or rather Celiolus, being part of it, and it is said that Constantine the Great built it. Here they shew a little vessell filled with the blood of Christ and the spunge which they gaue him with vineger vpon the crosse, and the title which Pilate writ vpon the Crosse, and one of the thirty pence which Iudas tooke for betraying Christ. And no woman may enter into the Chappell wherein Helena is said to haue praied, but once onely in the yeere vpon the twelfth of March. And this Church giues the title to a Cardinall.

The second day we began the view of Rome with the (Q) Popes Pallace, seated in the part of the Citie, called Il'Borgo; which Pallace Pope Nicholas the third built, and Nicholas the fifth compassed with walles, and the Pallace is of great circuit, and the staires are so easie, that Horses and Mules may goe vp to the top of the Mountaine, and with easie ascent and descent beare the Popes carriage. At the enterance there be three galleries one aboue the other, whereof the two first were built by Leo the tenth, and Paul the third, and the third and highest by Sixtus Quintus, and they are all fairely painted and guilded. Vpon these lie two large chambers, and beyond them is a vast and long gallery of foure hundred seuentie and one walking paces, in the middest whereof is the famous Librarie of the Popes In vaticano; and therein are many inscriptions of the Pope Sixtus Quintus who repaired it, and it is adorned with many faire pictures guilded all ouer. I did fee the seuerall roomes thereof. The first one hundred fortie and seuen walking paces long, had three rowes of Cubbards filled with bookes: the second was thirtie nine paces long; and the third containing the bookes of greatest price locked vp, was twentie paces long. Pope Sixtus the fourth built this Librarie, with the Chappell of the Pallace, and the Conclaue. The wall of the Chappell shineth like a glasse with precious stones: where the Pope Sixtus Quintus commanded Michael Angelo to paint the day of Iudgement, and the common report is, that this Pope promised this famous Painter that he would not come into the Chappell, till he had finished his worke; yet by some Cardinals perswasions that he broke his promise, and that the Painter thereupon made the pictures of the Pope and the Cardinals in hell amongst the Diuels, so liuely as euery man might know them. Betweene this Chappell and the Conclaue, (where they chuse the Popes) lies a Kingly Gallery, not vn worthily called vulgarly Sala Regia, (which others call Sala del Conclaue). The wall of this Gallery in like sort shineth with pretious stones, and the pauement is of pretious marble, the arched roose all guilded, and at the vpper end I wondred to see the Massacro of Paris painted vpon the wall, with the Popes inscription greatly commending that detestable cruelty. At the same vpper end the foresaid Chappell (as you come vp) lies one the left hand, and the Conclaue on the right hand; in which Conclaue the Cardinals meete to chuse the Pope, deuided into seuerall roomes, but meeting at a common table, and when they haue chosen him, they leade him into a Chappell at the lower end, and neere the dore of the said Kingly Gallery and place him there vpon a hollow seate of Marble. I know not whether this be the chaire, in which the sex of the Pope is tried, but I am sure it is hollow, with a hole in the bottom. After they put a Banner out of a high window, and there make knowne to the people the name that the Pope hath chosen, and then his armes are hung vp round about. This Chappell at the lower end of the said Gallery, hath the name of Pope Paul the third, of the Family of Farnese, and it is little, and of a round forme (as I remember), but it is beautifull beyond imagination. The images of the Apostles seeme to bee of siluer, and Paradice painted vpon the arched roofe, with Angels flying, being the worke of Michael Angelo, seemed to me admirable. Vpon the other side of the said Library is the priuate Gallery of the Pope, looking into the Garden (3) Beluedere, which is seated vpon the side of the Mount Vatican, where Pope Innocent the eight built part of the Pallace, and called it Beluedere, of the faire prospect of all Rome subiect to the eye. And Pope Iulius the second placed in this Garden many very faire statuaes, namely, of the Riuer Nilus, of the Riuer Tyber, of Romulus and Remus playing with the papps of a shee-Wolfe, all being placed in the open Garden, and a most faire statua of Apollo, another admirable statua of Lycaon with his children, another of the boy Antoninus, whom the Emperour Adrian loued, another of Hercules another of Cupid, another of Venus, another of Cleopatra sleeping with her arme ouer her face, and bearing a Serpent, being a wonderfull faire statua. And these are all locked vp, and not to be seene without fauour.

Hence we went to the Castle (4) of Saint Angelo of old called Moles Adriani, for it was the Sepulcher of the Emperour Adrian, vpon the top whereof was the Pineapple of brasse, which before I said was since placed in the open Court-yard of Saint Peters Church. This Sepulcher of Adrian called Moles (4) was demolished by Beasarius, in the warre of the Goathes, vpon the ruines whereof Pope Boniface the eight built this Castle, and Pope Alexander the sixth compassed it with walles and ditches, and placed therein a guard of Souldiers, and built from this Castle to the Popes Pallace an open and a close gallery, by which vpon any tumult, the Pope may passe safely from his Pallace to the Castle. And after Pope Paul the third built very faire chambers in this Castle. On the outside is the statua of Pope Pius the fourth, and within is the statua of Paul the third, vpon which these verses are written of the Emperour Charles the fifth comming to Rome.

In this Castle they shew the head of Adrtan, the statua of Saint Peter, a bunch of Grapes of brasse, the place where the Cardinall Caictan escaped out of prison, and a Trap-doore where prisoners are let downe into a dungeon. The chambers are built in a circle round about the great chamber in the middest, which is called Salaregia, and without is a round Garden within the walles, and vpon the top of the Castle, in the place of the said Pine-apple, is the statua of the Angell Michael, of which the Castle hath the name. The medowes of Qutntis Cincinates lie neere this Castle.

In the (5) Market place or field before the Church of Saint Peter (where of old was Metonianus Circus), Sixtus Quintus adorning Rome with many ornaments, erected an Obeliske seuentie two foote high, vpon the top whereof the ashes of Iulius Caesar were put of old: but in the yeere 1586 this Pope consecrated the same to the Crosse, and put vpon the top of it a Crosse guilded, and beneath foure Lions guilded. This Obeliske is vulgarly called La Guglia di S. Pietro. The globe, in which the ashes of Iulius Caesar were put, is now shewed in the Capitoll, and in the place thereof stands the said Crosse, with the Armes of the said Pope.

In this part of the Citie called Il Borgo, and in the very Market-place before Saint Peters Church, is another Church called Saint Marie In Campo Santo, because the yard thereof is all of earth brought from Hierusalem, wherein all strangers are buried, and they say, there bodies are consumed in three dayes. Neere that lies the Church of Saint Spirito (called also Sassia of the Saxons that of old dwelled there), and this is an Hospitall for the sicke, and for Orphanes, the rent whereof is said to haue been each day seuen thousand Crownes, till Pope Sixtus Quintus did alien great part thereof to other vses, and still of the surplusage at the yeeres ende, many Orphen Virgins are married. The Chappell of Saint Angelo lies close to the Castle, and was built by the Pope, who singing the Leteny there in the time of a great plague, made the Romans beleeue, that he did see Michael the Angell putting vp a bloudy sword in the sheath, and hereof the Castle hath the name. And it is a Schoole, or Fraternitie of Gentlemen, like to our Companies in London. The Church of Saint AEgidius the Abbot, hath great concourse to it in the moneth of September, when Agues raigne in Rome; for this Saint is the Patron for Agues.

From hence we went out of (II) Borgo by the Gate Saint Spirito, and entered the second part of Rome Trasteuire, by the Gate (XVI) Settimtana, where vnder the Church of Saint Peter Montorio, is the 〈◊〉 of Nero, that is a place to represent Nauall fights, and neere it is the like of Iulius Caesar. From this Church, to the Church Saint Honorio, is a Plaine, wherein was the large and long Circus or Theater of Iulius Caesar. In this part of the Citie the Church of Saint Cecilia giues the title of a Cardinall, and so doth the Church of Saint Grisogona. The said Church of Saint Mary in this part of the City, is the same which the old Romans called Taberna Meritoria, where they shew a Fountaine, whence (they say) that oyle did flow abundantly, and runne towards Tiber, the same night when Christ was borne; and this Church also giues the title of a Cardinall, and the old Romans called it Taberna Meritoria, of the souldiers nourished there, after they were past seruice by age or wounds. This Church of Saint Peter is seated vpon the Mount Ianiculus, in which there is a stately Monument erected by Pope Iulius the third, to his vncle the Cardinall dt Monte. The Church of Saint Pancratius hath many stones of porphry, and giues the title of a Cardinall, and the Friars of Saint Ambrose dwell in this Monastery. The Church Saint Honorio is a Monastery, and giues the title of a Cardinall. Neere the gate called Ripa, was of old the Romans Armory, of great circuit, lying vpon the Tyber, the vast ruines whereof yet remaine, and the people of Rome seruing for more then two hundred yeeres in the warres without any pay, was wont here to take Armes at their going forth, and here to lay them vp at their returne. And neere this place he the meadowes, giuen by the people of Rome to Mucius Scaeuola, for his valiant behauiour with King Porsena.

Hence turning to the left hand, we came to the (III) Iland of Tyber, in which the Church of S. Bartholmew (of old consecrated to AEsculapius) is adorned with 4 stately pillars of porphry, it giues the title to a Cardinall. At the foot of the bridge (XXXIX) S. Maria, as you come out of the Iland and enter into Rome, is the ruined house of Pontius Pilate, and opposite to that is the most ancient Church consecrated to the Moone, and vpon the other side another to the Sunne. Here also is the Theater of Marcellus, and the porch of Mercury.

Not farre thence is a marble head, called Bocca della verita, that is, the mouth of truth, of a woman (as I remember) falsifying her oath, and bewraied thereby; but others say it is the Idoll of Rbea. Here also is the Church of Saint Mary, called the Greeke Schoole, in which Saint Augustine is said to haue taught, but it is shut vp. At the foot of Mount Auentine. (where the Iewes vse to fish) if you looke backe, you shall see the ruines of the old bridge Sublicius (XLI) Thence going to the gate of Saint Paul, among vines, you shall see the ruines of one hundred and forty garners for corne, built of old by the Romans. In the pleasant meadow wherein the (XXXIIII) mount Testaceus lies, the Romans were wont of old to keepe their Olimpike games. The sepulcher of (6) Caius Cestius is most ancient, rising in a pyramis, and the inscription shewes it was built in three hundred and thirty daies, which the common sort falsly thinkes to be the Monument of Romulus. This monument of stone is compassed with wals, and it hath an inscription in great letters, but raced out. Some also thinke that it is the monument of Publius Sestius. From the gate of Saint Paul we returned into the City, and vnder the Church of Saint Gregory, where Laundresses continually wash, they say that of old the (7) Circus Maximut), or greatest Theater) did lie betweene the Mount Palatine and the Mount Auentine, being more then a quarter of a mile long, and halfe a quarter broad, which was built by Tarquinius Priscus for the hunting of Buls, and running of Horses, and after was inlarged by Iulius Caesar and other Emperours, so as it receiued 260 thousand beholders, being adorned with pillars and commodious seates, and at this day the place is called Cerchi. Neere this place were of late three rowes of pillars, one aboue the other; and this monument is called Il Setti zonio di Senero, of seuen souldiers engraued thereupon, and is thought to be the sepulcher of Septismius Seuerus, but the Pope Sixtus the fifth pulled it downe. Neere this place vppon (XXIIII) Mount Auentine lie the Bathes halfe ruined of Antonius Caracalla, built of bricke, the large chambers whereof, almost innumerable, are of exceeding height, hauing many stones and pillars of marble, whereby it appeares to haue beene a most stately work. The (8) church of S. Stephano Orotando, seated in mount Celius, giues the title of a Cardinall, and is possessed by Fryars of Hungary, and it was a Heathen Church of Faunus. There lie old and high wals, said to haue beene part of the conduit bringing water to the Capitoll. I haue before spoken of the Church of (A) Saint Iohn Lateran, being one of the seuen Churches, and of Constantines Font therein, and of the Chappel called Holy of Holies, and of the holy staires. I wil adde that here is an Obeliske, called la Guglia, of old consecrated to the Sunne, and brought out of AEgypt, which Iulius Caesar, or Augustus, did direct in the Circus Maximus, but Pope Sixtus the fifth brought it hither, in the fourth yeere of his Popedome, and the yeere of our Lord 1588. and consecrating it to the Crosse, set a guilded crosse vpon the top of it. This Obeliske, if it were of one stone, were to be preferred to that of Saint Peter, neere the Popes Pallace, for otherwise it is higher and more curiously carued. I haue spoken before of the Church (D) S. Croce in Gicrusalem, being one of the seuen Churches, seated neere the gate Maggiore. At the gate of this Church they shew a place where the whores keepe a feast vpon the twenty of August, and there of old was the Temple of Venus. The Theater of bricke which is in this Church, they say was built by Statilius Tamrus. Hence returning into the City, we passed by a place, where of old was a monument called Trofei di Marie, erected to Caius Marius, triumphing vpon Iugurtha and the Cymbri, and they say that the ruines thereof were admirable, but now it is all defaced. Neere the staires of the Capitoll, they shew a ruinous heape which some say, was this monument of Marius. Passing towards the Capitoll, we did see a Triumphall Arch erected to Galienus, which of the Church adioining is called the Arch of Saint Vito, and it is little perished with age.

Concerning the Churches lying from the Capitoll to the south parts of Rome: The Church of Saint Anastatia, that of Saint Mary In portico (of old dedicated by the Heathens to Pudicitia), that of Saint Iohn, that of Saint Paul vpon mount Celius, that of Saint Mary In Dominica, that of Saint Sistus, that of Saint Sabina vpon Monnt Auentine (in which they shew a stone cast by the Diuell at the head of Saint Dominicke, and broken by miracle,) that of Saint Prisca (of old dedicated to Hercules) that of Saint Balbina vpon Mount Auentine, that of Saint Iohn at the gate Latina (where it is said Domitian cast Saint Iohn into boyling oyle, but he escaped without hurt) that of Saint Mary in Via, without the gate of Saint Paul, towards Ostia, all these Churches giuetitles to Cardinals. Neere the Church of Saint Alexius, is a palme tree, whereof I remember not to haue seene any other at Rome. In the Church of Saint Saua the Abbot, neere the other vpon Mount Auentine, be the sepulchers of the Emperours Vespasian and Titus his son, of white marble, and the Altar hath two pillars of porphery.

The third day we began our view of Rome, at the (10) pillar of the Emperor Traian, erected to him making warre against the Parthians, which he neuer saw, dying in his returne. It is seated in a little market place, and was consecrated by Pope Sixtus the fifth to Saint Peter, whose Image of brasse guilded ouer, is set vpon the top thereof, with this inscription in Latin; Sixtus the fifth dedicated it to Saint Peter, the third yeere of his Popedome. The victories and actions of Traian are ingrauen vpon it, and his ashes were of old placed in the top, and here also was the horse of Traian. This pillar is said to be one hundred twenty three foote high, and it hath within, two hundred twenty three staires to the top, and forty foure windowes to let in light. Hence we turned towards the City, and came to (11) Campus Martius, neere the hill Citorius, which now is called piazza Colonna, of the pillar of Antoninus Pias there erected, which Pope Sixtus the fifth dedicated to Saint Paul, setting his Image on the top, and it hath about one hundred and seuenty staires to ascend, and fifty sixe windowes, and the outside is curiously engrauen with the actions of Antoninus. The foresaid Campus Martius was the field of Tarquin the proud, which the people of Rome dedicated to Mars, for military exercises. Neere the Church of Saint Mary liberatrice dalle pene d'Inferno, seated in Forum Rominum, and neere the (23) Arch of Settimius was of old the Temple of Vesta, where her Virgines kept the sacred fier, and the Image of Minerua, and being conuicted of vnchaftity, were led out of the gate Salaria with silence and were buried aliue, in a place there called Campus Seeleratus, being left or buried in a caue with a candle lighted, and water and milke. Neere this Church are most high pillars of the ruines of a marble gallery, which Caligula built from the Capitoll to the Mount Palatine. The (12) Church of S. Mary Soprala Minerua, is so called, for being of old consecrated to Minerua, and it giues the title of a Cardinall. Behind the Altar, is the statua of Pope Leo the tenth, and neere it another of Clement the seuenth, both of white marble; and another of Paul the fourth of brasse. In this Church I did see the most proud procession of the Pope, and there was such a presse to kisse his feet, as I had almost beene carried by force to passe them, or vndergoe capitall danger by refusall. The Church of (13) Saint Mary Retonda, was of old called Pantheon, and the building is most ancient and magnificent, being round in forme, & hauing no window, but all the light comming from the open roofe, whence the water falling is conuaied vnder the pauement, and it is about seuenty walking paces large euery way. The porch is borne vp with fifteene marble pillars, each pillar being of one stone, and all of admirable beauty and bignes. The doore is of brasse, the wals of brick, with the inside couered with precious stones, and the pauement is of marble and porphery. Marcus Agrippa sonne in law to Augustus built this Church, and dedicated it to Iupiter the Reuenger, and to Ceres, and to all the gods, whereupon it was called Pantheon. Not farre thence are the ruines of the Bath of Agrippa, in a place called Ciambella, und neere the Church of Saint Eustace, great ruines of the Baths of Nero are yet remaining. The place of old called (14) Circus Agonius, is now called la piazza Nauona, and it is the largest market place of Rome, wherein markets are kept euery wednesday. The Romans vsed it to see plaies and games of old, being a large place, yet of greater length then bredth. Here lies the Spaniards Church Saint Iacobo, and many of that Nation dwell there; who vpon Easter euen, and vpon festiuall times of their owne Nation, vse to make fier-workes there, with many other solemne games. It hath three fountaines, but the building is poore. At one end of this market place, in a corner of a street opposite to a publike Pallace, is the statua of Pasquin; vpon a wall of a priuate house, which hath neither armes nor feet, they being cut off by passengers in the night. For all libels, euen against the Pope himselfe, vse to be made in forme of a dialogue, and fastened vpon this statua of Pasquine, and another of Marforio (whereof I shall speake after) they two bearing the persons one of the question maker, the other of the answeret. Neere the Church of (15) Saint Mary de la Consolatione, as we came backe into the City, our guide shewed vs a place, where the house of Ouid did stand. Concerning the Churches lying about the Mount Capitoline; that of Saint Mary In Acquiro, seated in the market place vulgarly piazza Crapanella, giues the title of a Cardinall. In the same market place is the monastery and Church of the Iesuites. The Church of Saint Mauro hath a little Obeliske erected. That of Saint Eustaeo giues the title to a Cardinall. Neere it lies the Church of Saint Lew is proper to the French, (for all Kingdomes and Prouinces haue their peculiar Churches at Rome.) The Church of Saint Apollinaris, and that of Saint Thomas In pariont, and that of Saint Laurence In Damaso and that of Saint Angelo Inpiscaria (which of old was confecrated to Inno) and that of Saint Nicholas In Carcere, doe all giue the titles of Cardinals. The Church and Hospitall called Saint Mary del' Anima, is proper to the Dutch Nation. The Church and Hospitall of Saint Thomas, vulgarly di S. Tomaso, is built for the English, and is seated neere the (25) Pallace of Farnest.

The fourth day we began the view of Rome at the Market-place, called (16) la piazza di Fieri, lying in the way from the Iland of Tyber, as you goe to the Bridge of S. Augelo. Here was the house of the harlot Flora, who made the people of Rome her heire, wherupon the Romans to couer her shame, made her the goddesse of flowers, and yeerely kept her birth day vpō the third of April, of which feast I shall speak after. This Marketplace is seated in the most inhabited place of Rome, among all the chiefe shops of Merchants. And therein the family of Orsini haue a Pallace, and neere the same was the Theater of Pompey, & his court or publike house, pulled down because Caesar was therin killed. And from this Market place towards the Iland of Tyber, lyes the streete of the Iewes. In the way from the Church of the Trinitie, to the Mount Quirinalis, vulgarly called (17) Monte Cauallo, were the famous Gardens of Salustius, and neere that Church was the Naumachia (that is the place to represent Nauall fights) called of Augustus. Neere to the Church Saint Rocco, lies the (18) Sepulcher of Augustus called Mansoleum, the ruines whereof yet remaine. He built it for himselfe and other Emperours, of a round forme, and adorned it with stones of Marble and Porphery, and like pillers and Obeliskes, placing his owne statua of brasse vpon the top, so as they daily dig vp goodly Images out of the Caue and Garden neere it. The Pinacle of this Monument Pope Sixtus the fifth remoued to the Church Saint Marie Maggiore, and this monument with the Groue planted about it, reached from the Church Saint Rocco, to Saint Marie delpopolo. Neere to the Gate (IIII) del Popolo lies the said Church of that name, vnder the Adtar whereof the bones of Nero were laid, which, they say, were kept by spirits, till Pope Pascall by reuelation from the blessed Virgin had warning to cast the bones into Tiber. Whensoeuer the Plague is in Rome, this Church is made one of the seuen in the place of Saint Sebastian, with all the indulgences to it belonging, and it alwaies carries that title. Here bee two faire Sepulchers, whereof one is for a Chauncelor of Millan, the other for Pope Sixtus the fifth sisters sonne, both the worke of Andrew Sansouine. The yard of this Church hath an Obeliske, almost as faire as that neere Saint Iohn Lateran, which Pope Sixtus the fifth also erected. Concerning the Churches from this Gate del popolo, to the (XXII) Mount Capitolino, the Church of Saint Laurence in Lucinia, that of Saint Siluester, that of the holy Apostles, that of Saint Marcello, and that of Saint Marke, doe all giue titles to Cardinals. Neere the Church Saint Siluester is the Monastery delle Conuertite, that is, of Harlots repenting, and becomming Nunnes. The Church S. Mary de Rione dellapigna, is a Monastery di Sante Donne miserabili, that is, of holy miserable women, and neere that is another Monastery delle mal Maritate, that is, of women vnfortunately married and left in want by their husbands. The foresaid Gate delpopolo, was repaired and beautified by Pope Pius the fourth. Neere it lies the most sweere Vineyard of Pope Iulius the third, and his pleasant Fountaine, casting vp water two elles high. Not farre thence is a triumphal Arch erected to Domitian, vulgarly called Portogallo. From this gate Delpopolo, towards the (V) gate Pinciana, and neere the (17) Church della Trinita, we did see the Pallace of the Florentine Cardinall de Medicis (who from a Cardinal became the Duke of Florence by right of succession).

And this Pallace was rich & stately, the staires winding so artificially, as it was a beautiful sight to look in a perpendicular line from the top to the foot, and vpon the staires was a faire statua of Apollo. Hence there was a Gallery open on the sides towards the Garden, fuil of beautifull Images, of Lions, a shee-Wolfe, a Ramme, all of white Marble, with other Images, and very faire pillars. And the first Garden had onely flowers; the second in the vpper part, had a sweete Groue, and the lower part was full of fruit trees. There was a Fountaine with a brasen Image of Mercurie vpon it. Vpon a Mount called Pernasso, were many Images of white Marble, of Pegasus, of the Muses, and one of Cleopatra, fairer then that I saw in the Popes Garden, with two Images of Cerberus, and another monster. There were two large Cesternes of Porphery. And in a Chamber were the Images, of a Satyr, a Nimph, and a Gryphon. Lastly, in the Groue were staires paued with carued Marble, with figures of fishes, and there was a most faire statua of Europa sitting vpon a Bulles backe. The outside of the Groue was all of Firre trees, which are greene in winter, but the inside had most pleasant walkes among rowes of many other kindes of trees. In this Groue was a most sweete Arbour, hauing foure roofes, and as it were chambers, one aboue the other, the first whereof is twentie staires from the ground, whence lay a most large and most faire Gallery of stone, vnder which was a most pleasant solitarie walke, betweene two walles, all set with Orangetrees, and like fruit.

The large way leading to the Cities Gate Pia, was paued by Pope Pius the fourth, and hath on each side a pleasant walke, and is also called Pia of the same Pope, as the (VII) Gate is which hee built. Betweene this Gate and the next of (VIII) Saint Laurence was of old a large Park, in which the people of Rome kept beasts to be hunted. Hence we went towards the Mount Quirinalis, vulgarly (XXVIII) Monte Cauallo, and vnder the most pleasant Vineyard of the Cardinall of Ferraria, were many Caues and old ruines, and there is a field, where in honour of (16) Flora (as I said formerly describing that Market-place) the harlots of Rome kept a yeerely feast, and dwelling in the foresaid Caues, vsed to runne from thence naked into this field, with vnspeakable libertie of speech and gesture.

From hence passing a little lane, we ascended to (XXVIII) Monte Cauallo which is so called of two Horses of Marble set there, which they write to haue been giuen to Nero by Mithridates King of Armenia, the one wrought by Phydias, the other by Praxitiles. The common people holdes one of them for Bucephalus, and thinkes that Alexander holdes his bridle, and that they were wrought by the foresaid engrauers in emulation one of the other. But the farre different age of Alexander, and the said engrauers makes this opinion vnprobable. Two men are ingrauen, who holde the bridles of the horses, as if they should leade them, and some thinke that they were made for two horses of Diomedes, which did eate mans flesh, and were tamed by Hercules. The Pallace of Nero was neere this Mount, and from thence they shew some ruines thereof. This Pallace (as histories doe witnesse) did reach from Mount Celius to Mount Palatine, and to the furthest part of Mount Esquiline, and it was compassed with a lake, hauing within the circuit thereof, Meadowes, Vineyards, Woods, and Parkes, and all the house was guilded, and thereupon was called golden; it shined with Iuory, and pretious stones, and the great Hall thereof did moue round like the World, casting out flowers and odors. From hence Nero saw Rome burnt with ioy, and all this building was burnt in the time of Traian the Emperour; and when Nero had finished this house, he said, that he began then first to dwell like a man. Vpon this said Mountaine of the Horses, the Pope hath a stately Pallace, which a Cardinall of Ferrara built, and he being dead, Pope Gregorie the thirteenth seased vpon it. The staires are very faire, each hauing his pillar, and the ascent is most easie. I think a fairer Gallerie can hardly be seene, being one hundred and twentie walking paces long. There is a Chamber wherin Pope Sixius the fifth died. A second wherein Ambassadours are heard. A third in which Cardinals are chosen. The Popes study is very pleasant, and so is the Garden, hauing many Fountaines, Groues, Labyrinthes, a Rocke artificially distilling water, and many most sweet Arbours. Moreouer, on this Mount is the most faire Fountaine of Pope Sixtus the fifth, called the Happie; for hither is the water brought from the stately Conduit without the Gate Maggiore, in the way (IX) Praenestina, reaching many miles, which was built by Pope Sixtus the fifth, with Imperiall magnificence, in the yeere 1587. And this Fountaine casteth out waters from the mouthes of foure Lions of white Marble. Likewise vpon the same is the Image of Moses, striking the Rocke with his Rod; and there be two other mouthes lower to cast out water, and it is all engrauen with the said historie of Moses.

Descending from this Mount, we did see in a priuate Gentlemans house an Horse of brasse, esteemed at twenty fiue thousand pounds sterling, which Henrie the second had placed at Paris (as they said), it death had not preuented him. Hence towards the East we went forward towards the Bathes of Dioclesian, and by the way at the foote of the Mount of the Horses, we did see the Bathes of Constantine. A man cannot sufficiently wonder at the ruines of Dioclesians Baths, by which it seemes they were of incredible greatnesse; and they report, that this Emperour compelled many thousands of Christians to worke vpon this building for many yeeres. Vnder the earth are gates and diuers passages of vnknowne extent. Vpon these Bathes Pope Pius the fourth in the yeere 1561 built the Church Saint Mary of the Angels, and with the consent of the people of Rome gaue it to the Carthusian Friers. In the roomes of this Bath Pope Gregorie the thirtenth, in the yeere 1575 built a Granary for Corne, and the said Church of Saint Marie is beautified with faire pillars thirtie spannes compasse, and with exquisite pictures, especially those two neere the Altar, of the Emperor Maximilian and his Empresse. Hence we went to the Church of Saint (C) Marie Maggiore, being one of the seuen Churches, and vnder this Church, vpon a Hill neere Saint Potentiana (which giues the title to a Cardinall) of old were the Nouatian Bathes. And vpon Mount (XXVI) Esquiline, neere the Church Saint Laurence In Palesperna, (giuing title to a Cardinall) were of old the Olimpike Bathes. And the said Church of Saint Marie is built, where the Temple of Isis stoode, highly honoured of the old Romans. Pope Sixtus the fifth brought hither in the yeere 1587 the foresaid Obeliske, from the Sepulcher of Augustus neere (18) Saint Rocco and it is the lowest and the least of all the Obeliskes. Vpon this Mount Esquiline was a place for burning dead bodies, but the Romans being offended with the smoke, Augustus gaue that field to Maecenas, who made most famous Gardens there. Hereabouts lies the Chappell of Saint Luke, peculiar to the Painters, and there was a groue consecrated to Iuno. The Church of Saint Anthony is little, but full of faire pictures, and in the Vineyard of the Hospitall, was the stately Church of Diana. And the famous Church of Mars was built, where that of Saint Martin now stands (which giues the title to a Cardinall). As we went from Mount Esquiline to the Theater of Vespasian, we saw by the way a rare Monument, built by the said Emperour, or his sonne Titus vpon Mount Esquiline. It hath nine Cesternes vnder the ground, and is vulgarly called Sette sale, of seuen seuerall chambers, where of each is seuentene foote broad, twelue foote high, and one hundred thirtie seuen foote long, and hath foure doores, which so answere one another, as a man may see all the roomes at once. Neere the Church of Saint Clement is the wonderfull Theater of Vespasian, vulgarly called Il Coliseo, in which the people were wont to see the fighting of Fencers, the hunting of wilde beasts, and like games, and it receiued one hundred and nintie (others say eightie fiue) thousand persons, and the outside was of old round, but the inside of Oual forme, and as high as the top of Mount Celius. I obserued the building now to be of bricke, and the foundation to be sixtie walking paces broad, and to haue foure rowes of seates one aboue the other, and the inside from the foundation of the seates to bee eight walking paces broad, and one hundred thirtie and fiue paces long. The ruines of the like Theater, but lesse, built by Statilius, lie neere the Church (D) San'Croce.

The foresaid Church of Saint Clement giues the title to a Cardinall, but the wals are all ruined, and this part is not inhabited, neither is the streete paued from thence to the Church (D) S. Croce, in memory (as they say) of Pope Ioane, which being great with childe, and hauing gone a folemne Procession from (A) Saint Iohn Lateran, to the said Church of the (D) holy Crosse, as she returned this way, amidst her pompe was deliuered of a Childe.

Neere to the said Theater of Vespasian lies the Triumphall Arch erected to Constantine the great, when he had ouercome Maxentius, and it is most faire and curiously carued. Neere that is the Church of Saint Marie the new, which giues the title to a Cardinal, and in the Garden is a monument of the idoll Serapis. The (22) Triumphal Arch erected to Vespasian, and Titus when hee came from the destruction of Ierusalem, hath but one Arch, and is lesse then the former erected to Constantine, but it is no lesse adorned with their actions engrauen. Neere the said Church of Saint Marie the new, lie the vast ruines of the famous Temple of Peace, the roofe whereof is richly engrauen. Neere this is a kind of Gibet, which they called of old Tygillum Sororium, that is, the sisters rafter, because when the Horatij three brothers had killed the Curiutij three brothers, yet onely one of the Horatij remaining aliue, he returning into the Citie, and finding his sister weepe for her priuate losse in a day of publique ioy, killed her with his owne handes, and for shew of iustice, was condemned to passe vnder this rafter, without further punishment, in respect of his desert in that battell. Vpon mount Palatine of old was a Pallace, now called vulgarly (XXIII) Ilpalazzo Maggiore, in which most of the Emperours did dwell, and vpon the ruines thereof the deceased Cardinall Farnese had a pleasant Vineyard. And at the foote of this Mountaine, neere the Chappell of Saint Theodor, they say that Romulus and Remus were cast forth and nourished by a shee-Wolfe: for they say, that Tyber of old did runne this way, though now it hath changed the bed. The Church of Saint Cosmo giues the title of a Cardinall, and there the Temple of Romulus was of old seated. Also the Temple and Pallace of the Emperour Marcus Aurelius, and his Empresse Faustina, daughter to Antoninus Pius, were in this place. In the same field of old called the (11) Roman Market-place. I said before, that the Temple of the Vestall Virgins was seated, neere the Church Saint Marie Liberatrice, which was also consecrated to Venus. There also in the field called Vaccino, three pillars are yet remaining of the ruines of the Marble Gallerie which Caligula built, and those pillars are very high, and not farre from them was the Lake or Gulfe, into which Curtius cast himselfe for his Countries sake. The Triumphall Arch erected to L. Septimius Seuerus, for his victory against the Parthians, is curiously engrauen with that warre, and it is the fairest Arch, next that of Constantine, and it is seated at the foote of the Mount Capitoline, in the Market place, called of old Forum Romanum (for it began at the foote of the (XXII) Mount Capitoline, and reached to the foote of (XXIII) Mount Palatine, where now is the Church of Saint Cosmo.) And therein was a Monument erected, called la Ringhiera, from whence Orations were made to the people, and it is probable, that this was the place called Rostra, where Cicero made his Orations to the people, for Antiquaries agree that it was in this Market-place. In which also at the foote of the Capitol, of old was a Pillar, called Milliare Aureum, which shewed the way to all the Gates, and whether soeuer a man would goe. There also at this day is a Church with a brasen dore, where was the Treasurie of the people of Rome, the gates whereof Iulius Caesar broke, and tooke from thence infinite treasure. Neere this place is the statua of Iupiter Panarius (others say of the Riuer Rheine) vpon the head whereof stood one of the feete of Domitians Horse of brasse, and this statua is now called Marforio, and it is of Marble, lying at length as vpon a Tombe, as that (14) of Pasquin stands vpright against a wall, and vpon these two Images are fastened all the libels of Rome, framed in manner of dialogue. This statua of Marforio was of late taken vp by Pope Clement the eighth out of the valley, and placed vpon this Mount before the Capitoll, as appeareth by the inscription besides that the place was to be seene whence it was taken.

Vpon this Mount (XXII) Cápitoline, of old was seated the famous Capitoll, and now there is the Senate house, the building whereof hath no magnificence. Betweene two Senate houses is a yard, in which lies the Rock Tarpeia; from the top whereof condemned men were cast of old. In the fore-yard of the Capitoll, is a horsemans statua of brasse, guilded, which was erected to the Emperour Marcus Aurelius, and for the engrauers art is held of inestimable price. Frō this place great part of Rome lies open to the eye in a sweete prospect. The foresaid statua was set in this place by Pope Paul the 3 in the yere 1538. Therby lies a foot statua of white Marble, & the fore said monument, (9) which Pope Sixtus the fifth, in the yeere 1590 remoued to this place from the old monumēt erected to Coius Marius. There also is the foresaid statua of (23) Marforio which was taken away by the Consuls of Rome from the first place, and placed here by Pope Clement the eight. Here also is the pillar of Combat, and a most pleasant fountaine built by Pope Sixtus the fourth, where lie two ancient Images of white marble of two riuers Tygris and Nylus. There be also three pillars brought from the Temple of Concord (where the old Senators of Rome did meete.) Within the Capitoll or Senate house it selfe, we did see many most faire antiquities, namely, statuaes erected to Iulius Caesar, to Octauius, to Augustus, and to Marius seuen times Consull; the Image of Hercules of brasse guilded ouer, which was digged out of the ruines of the Temple of Hercules, in the time of Pope Sixtus the fourth, also the Images of Hercules his sonne, of Iupiter, of Minerua, and of Ceres, all of marble, a head of brasse vpon which was engrauen Iunius M. Brutus; two statuaes of yong men, whereof one standeth vpright in the habite of a seruant, the other being naked, hath one foot aboue the other knee, with a needle in his hand to pull a thorne out of it, and both are of brasse guilded ouer, and of admirable beauty. The Image of Auentine digged out of Mount Auentine, a brasen image of a shee wolfe which gaue sucke to Romulus and Remus, and it was made of fines imposed vpon vsurers, a brazen statua of AEneas, a brasen statua erected to Pope Sixtus the fifth, for repressing the banished men, another of marble erected to Pope Leo the tenth. We did see in the hall of Iudgement within this Capitoll, the statuaes of marble erected to Pope Gregory the thirteenth, to Pope Paui the third, and to King Charles made a Senator of Rome. Vpon the sight of these, a Gentleman told vs, that by a Law he was made infamous, who should make mention of erecting a statua to any Pope while he liued. In the foreyard of the Capitoll, we did see the fragments of an huge Coloffus, and vpon the wall neere the staires, the Triumphs of Marcus Aurelins, engranen in square marble stones. There we did also see marble fragments digged vp vnder the Arch of Settimius, vpon which were engrauen the names of Consuls, Dictators, and Censors, and vnder the very porch, the head of an Emperour, the pillar of Nauall fights, the sepulcher of Settimius Alexander Seuerus, and of his mother Iulia Mammea, brought hither from the field of Fabricius; the image of Minerua, certaine images of brasse of the Monster Sphynx; the bones intombed of Agrippina neece to Augustus, and wife to Germanicus; the Image of a Lyon deuouring another beast, and certaine ancient vessels to keepe wine. Vpon this Mountaine, of old were sixty Temples; but of all other the Temple of Iupiter Optimus Maximus built by Tarquine the proud, was most esteemed by the old Romans. From this Mountaine we ascended by 128. broad staires of marble (brought hither from the Temple of Quirinus vpon Monte Canalle) to the Church of Saint Maria Ara Caeli, built vpon the ruines of the Temple of Iupiter Feretrius, and of the Pallace of the Emperour Augustus. And vpon these staires were two statuaes erected to the Emperour Constantine, and the Church it selfe is adorned with many marble pillers and stones, and a Pulpit of porphery, and it hath the name of an Altar, which they shew there erected to the Son of the Virgin, by Augustus, who they say had read in the Oracles of Sybilia, that a Virgin should bring forth a sonne. The arched roofe of the Church is richly guilded, and here Pope Pius the fourth consecrated the spoiles taken from the Turkes in the nauall victory of him and his confederates, the memory whereof is there kept by an inscription vpon a pillar. Also the Senate and people of Rome, haue here erected a table to Pope Paul the third, vpon which is written in golden letters, that while he was Cardinall, he erected here many antient monuments digged vp in Rome at his owne charge. On the other side of the Mount Capitoline, (towards the West as I remember) at the very foot of the mountaine, is the Tullian prison, appointed for that vse by the old Kings Ancus Martins and Tullus, in which they say the holy Apostles Peter and Paul were imprisoned; and at this day there is a Church vnder the earth, called Saint Peter In Careere.

The (24) Theater of Marcellus sonne to the sister of Augustus, is neere the Pallace of the Family Sauilla. Not farre thence towards the fish market, was the Porticus of Octauia, sifter to Augustus, but no ruines now remaine thereof. The (25) pallace of the Cardinal Farnese is seated in a plain, being one of the fairest in Rome, which for the dignity of such a City, hath very few stately Pallaces. Here I did see an admirable statua, cut out in one stone, of a Bull treading a woman vnder his feete, with the Images of two brothers standing vpright, and of a hunting dogge, with the figure of a high Rocke. Concerning the Churches which we did see in this daies iourney. The (23) Church of Saint Adrian in the market place called Romanum, or Boiarium. The Church of Saint Peter and Marcellanus (betweene the (20) Theater of Vespasian and the Church (A) S. Giouanni in Laterano, the Church of Saint Matthew, in the way towards (C) Saint Mary Maggiore the Church of Saint Pietro in vincula (vpon (XXVI) Mount Esquiline, (where is a sepulcher of white marble of Pope Iulius the second, adorned with faire statuaes, namely, one of Moyses of the rare worke of Michael Angelo,) the Church of Agata, vpon the same mountaine, the Church of Saint Vito In Macello, the Church of Saint Eusebius (neere the mounment called (9) Trofei di Mario the Church of Saint Prasside, seared neere (C) S. Maria Maggiore whose chappell called Horto del Paradiso, no woman may enter), the Church of Saint Quirico, the Church Saint Susanna vpon (XXVIII) Monte Cauallo, the Church Saint Vitallis: Al these Churches giue the titles of Cardinals. The Church Saint Costanza, is a long mile out of the (VII) gate Pis and was of old dedicated to Bacchus, where is a most faire sepulcher and large, of porphry, ten ordinary spannes deepe, and fifteene long, curiously engrauen with boyes quaffing, and bearing cups of wine, as in a Feast of Bacchus, which some thinke to be the sepulcher of Constantia a Virgine, daughter to Constantine, but the engrauing like a Feast of Bacchus seemes more ancient, and to be wrought by the Heathen Romans, and it is vulgarly called the sepulcher of Bacchus. This Church is of a round forme and little, but very faire, and borne vp with twelue rowes of marble pillars, set in a round compasse. Neere this lies the Church of Saint Agnese, hauing doores of brasse, where the Lambes are kept, whereof the Pals of Arch-bishops are made, which the Pope so dearly sels.

At my first comming to Rome I lodged in a publike Inne, and paid three giulij each meale, then as I haue written, I hasted my iourney to Naples, and after returning to Rome, I hired a chamber by the day, and bought my owne meat, but my haste to be gone, made me not to note my particular expences. Onely I remember that they who sold any thing in the market, vsed to look into the hands of the buyers to see whether they brought siluer or brasse coyne, and thereafter made their price; whereupon many shewed siluer, till they had bought, and then paid in copper, which the people durst not refuse. And from hence it was, that in a solemne pompe, when the people fell on their knees before the Pope, and I thought they onely expected his blessing, they all cried out; Holy Father command that we may haue white bread, and that the Gentlemen may be forced to take our brasse quatrines: so as it seemes they refused to receiue them. I scarce bought my meat one or two daies in Rome: For after I had beene with Cardinall Allen, I formerly said, that to shun the company of his Englishmen, I changed my lodging, and my selfe and two Dutch Gentlemen my consorts, tooke a chamber in a victualling house, close vnder the Popes Pallace; and each of vs paid for our bed each night one or two baocci, and bought our meat in that house, agreeing for the price before we did eat it, and so being ready vpon all euents of danger, and hauing no carriage to trouble vs, we hoped if need were to escape; yet still I rested much vpon the Cardinals promise, and being free from Englishmens company, and hauing two honest Dutch Gentlemen for my consorts, both borne in the Palatinate of Rheine, where they professe the same religion as in England, I did with more security set my selfe freely to satisfie my curiosity in the view of Rome.

After being desirous to see the mouth of Tyber, where it fals into the sea, I went out of the gate of Saint Paul, and hauing the narrow bed of Tyber on my right hand, passed twelue miles to Ostia, through fruitfull hils of corne, and a vast wood at my iournies end. Here is a strong Castle seated in Latium, and belonging to the Popes of Rome, which Pope Martin the fifth built, and Pope Iulius the second did more strongly fortifie, but nothing remaines of the stately buildings of that City, but some poore houses. Strabo writes, that King Ancus Martius first built this City, in a soile to which the Riuer brought much dirt. It is certaine that of old the ships did cast Anchor without the Hauen of the City, and sent their goods to Rome in Gallies and Barkes drawne vp by a rope, the Hauen being not so deepe to beare them. The Citizens were free from Tribute, to make them dwell there, the aire being then (as also at this time) very vnwholsome. Now the Tyber seemes to end here in a Lake, and the waters runne in little channels vnder the paued high waies. The Hauen of Traian is a mile and a halfe from the Towne, being broad enough, but so barred with sand and like matter, as no ships can come to it; and onely small Barkes sometimes passe from Naples and neere places to Rome, and that very seldome. The foresaid Hauen was first built by Claudius, then repaired by Traian, and called of his name, of which Suetonius writes thus in the life of Claudius; He made the Hauen of Hostia, drawing an arme on the right and left side, and making a barre at the entery, where it was deepe, which barre, that he might make more stable, by Art, he sunke the ship wherein the great Obeliske was brought from AEgypt, and vpon piles heaped vp, placed a most high Tower, like to the Pharo of Alexandria, out of which light was hung out by night, to direct the ships, &c.