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VVritten in Spanish by ANTONIO COLMENERO, Doctor in Physicke and Chirurgery.
And put into English by Don Diego de Vades-forte.
Imprinted at London by J. Okes, dwelBartholmewes. 1640.
Beauties of this happy Isle (who shall have eiConfection) be ever serene, and gratefull to Your Lordship; presaging encrease of Honour, and all Felicity, answerable to the humble Devotion, and hearty Prayers of
Melchor de Lara Physitian GeneSpaine, at the command of Don John de Velasco, and Asebedo, Vicar Generall of Madrid, have seene this Treatise of Chocolate, composed by Antonio Colmenero of Ledesma; which is very learned, and curious; and therefore it ought to be Licensed for the Presse; it containing nothing contrary to good Manners; and it cannot but be very pleasing to those, who are affected to Chocolate. In testimony whereof, I have subscribed my Name, in Madrid the 23. day of August. 1631.
I Iohn de Mena, Physitian to his Maiesty, and one of the Counsell Generall of the Inquisi
Chocolate, that not onely in the Indies, where this kinde of Drinke hath its orignall; but it is also much used in Spaine, Italy, and Flanders, and particularly at the Court. And many doe speake diversly of it, according to the benefit, or hurt, they receive from it: Some saying, that it is stopping: Others, and those the greater part, that it makes one fat: Others, that the use of it strengthens the stomacke: Others, that it heats, and burnes them: And others say, that although they take it every houre, and in the Dog-dayes, yet they finde themselves well with it. And therefore my desire is, to take this paines, for the pleasure, and profit of the pubMarchena, who (as it seemes) writ onely by ReChocolate is stopping, beCacao (the principall Ingredient of which it is made) is cold, and dry. But because this onely reason, may
Confection, with Philosophicall Reasons, against any, whosoever will condemne this Drinke, which is so wholesome, and so good, knowing how to make the Paste in that manner, that it may be agreeable to divers dispositions, in the moderate drinking of it. And so, with all possible brevity, I shall distinguish and divide this Treatise into foure poynts, or Heads. In the first place I shall declare, what
Chocolate is a Name of the Indians; which in our vulgar Castilian, we may call a certaine
This Quality, or Complexion, which ariseth of this MixSimple, from whence one onely quality doth abound; and foure Compounded, from whence two Symbolizing quaad pondus, which is of all these fore-said qualities, which are in aequilibrio, that is to say in equall measure and degree.
Of all these, the Complexion of Cacao is composed, since there arise two qualities, which are cold, and dry; and in the substance, that rules them, hath it restringent and obstructive, of the nature of the Element of the Earth. And then, as it is a Mixe, and not a simple Element, it must needes have parts correspondent to the rest of the Elements; and particularly, it partakes (and that, not a little) of those, which correspond with the Element of Aire, that is, Heat and Moysture, which are governed by the Unctuous parts; there being drawne out of the Cacao much Butter, which, in the Indies I have seene drawne out of it, for the Face, by the Criollas.
It may Philosophically be objected, in this manner: Two contrary Qualities, and Disagreeing, cannot be, in gradu intenin one and the same Subject: Cacao is cold and drie, in predominency: Therefore, it cannot have the qualities contrary to those; which are Heate, and Moysture. The first Proposition is most certaine, and grounded upon good Philosophy: The second is consented unto, by all: The third, which is the Conclusion, is regular.
It cannot be denyed, but that the Argument is very strong, and these reasons being considered by him of Marchena, have made him affirme, that Chocolate is Obstructive; it seeming to be contrary to Philosophy, that it there should bee found Heate and Moysture, in gradu intenso; and to be so likewise in Cold and Dry.
Chocolate is made without ad
The other reason, we will draw from Philosophy; affirming that, in the Cacao, there are different Substances. In the one, that is to say, in that, which is not so fat, it hath a greater quantity of the Oylie, then of the earthy substance; and in the fatter parts, it hath more of the earthy than of the Oily substance. In these there is Heat and Moysture in predomi
Notwithstanding that it is hard to be believed, that in one and the same substance, and so little of the Cacao, it can have substances so different: To the end that it may appeare more easie, cleare, and evident, first we see it in the Rubarbe, which hath in it hot and soluble parts, and parts which are Binding, Cold and Dry which have a vertue to strengthen, binde, and stop the loosenesse of the Belly: I say also, that hee that sees, and considers the steele, so much of the Nature of the earth, as being heavy, thicke, cold, and dry; it seemes to be thought unproper for the caring of Opilations, but rather to be apt, to encrease them; and yet it is given for a proper remedy against them.
This difficulty is cleared thus, that though it be true, that it hath much of the Earthy part; yet it hath also parts of SulGallen, lib. 3. of the quacap. 14. Where, first of all he teacheth, that almost all those Medicines, which, to our sence, seeme to bee simple, are notwithstanding naturally Compounded, contaiAloes, which if it be washt, looseth the Purgative vertue; or that which it hath, is but weake.
That this differing vertue, and faculty, is found in divers substances, or parts of simple Medicaments, Gallen shewes in the first Booke of his simple Medicines, and the sevenGallen, Cap. 15. Also we finde in Wine which is in the Must, three substances, that is to say, earth, which is the chiefe; and a thinner sub
Aristotle in the fourth Booke of the Meteors and the first Chapter, treating of Putrifaction, hee found the same subGalen, and of Aristotle, divers substances are attributed to every of the mixt under one and the same forme and quantity; which is very conformable to reason, if we consider, that every Ali
From which evident examples, and many others, which we might produce to this purpose, wee may gather, that, when we grinde, and stirre the Cacao, the divers parts, which Nature hath given it, doe artificially, and intimately mixe themselves one with an other; and so the uuctuous, warme, and moist parts, mingled with the earthy (as we have said of the steele) represses, and leaves them not so binding, as they were before; but rather with a mediocritie, more inclining to the warme, and moist temper of the Aire, then to the cold and dry of the Earth; as it doth appeare when it is made fit to drinke; that you scarce give it two turnes with the Moli
From which doctrine I gather, that the Author of Marchena, was in an errour; who, writing of
Besides, our Adversary should have considered, and called to his memory, the first rudiments of Philosophy, That, à dicto secundum quid, ad dictum simpliciter, non valet consequentia; As it is not enough to say, the Black-a-Moore is white, because his teeth are white; for hee may bee blacke, though he have white teeth; and so it is not enough io say, that the
The Tree, which beares this fruit, is so delicate; and the earth, where it growes, is so extreame hot, that to keepe the tree from being consumed by the Sun, they first plant other trees; and when they are growne up, to a good heighth, then they plant the Cacao-trees; that when it first shewes it selfe above the ground, those trees, which are already growne, may shelter it from the Sunne; and the fruit doth not grow naked, but ten or twelue of them are in one Gorde or Codde, which is of the bignes of a great blacke Figge, or bigger, and of the same forme, and colour.
There are two sorts of Cacao; the one is common, which is of a gray colour, inclining towards red; the other is broaPatlaxte, and this is white, and more drying; whereby it causeth watchfulnes, and drives away sleepe, and therefore it is not so usefull, as the ordinaCacao.
Chocolaticall Confection, there is notable variety; because some doe put into it blacke Pepper, and also Tauasco; which is not proper, because is is so hot and dry; but onely for one, Mexico, of whom a Religi
The Receipt of him who wrote at Marchena, is this: Of Cacaos, 700; of white Sugar, one pound and a halfe; CinnaAchiote, as will give it the colour, which is about the quantity of a Hasell-nut. Some put in Almons, kernels of Nuts, and Orenge-flower-water.
Concerning this Receipt, I shall first say, This shooe will not fit every foote; but for those, who have diseases, or are inclining to be infirme, you may either adde, or take away, according to the necessity, and temperature of every one: and I hold it not amisse, that Sugar bee put into it, when it is drunke, so that it be according to the quantity I shall hereafChocolate together; which they doe onely to please the Pallats, as the Dames of Mexico doe use it; and they are there sold in shops, and are confected and eaten like other sweet-meats. For the Cloves, which are put into this drinke, by the Author aforesaid, the best Writers of this
Foetorem emendant or is Cariophila foedum; Constring unt ventrem, prima membrajuvant. que
And because they are binding (and hot and dry in the third degree) they must not be used, though they helpe the chiefe parts of Concoction, which are the stomacke, and the Liver, as appeares by the Verses before recited.
The husks or Cods of Logwood, or Campeche, are very good, and smell like Fennell; and every one puts in of these, because they are not very hot; though it excuse not the putChocolate without it, because it is good for many cold diseases, being hot in the third degree; and to temper the coldnesse of the Cacao; and that it may appeare, it helpes the indisposition of cold parts, I will cite the Verses of one, curious in this Art:
Morbosos renes, vesicam, guttura, vuluam, Intestina, iecur, cum lyene caput que Confortat, varijs Anisum subdita mortis que Membra: istud tantam vim leve semen habet.
The quantity of a Nut of the Achiote is too little to colour the quantity made according to his Receipt; and therefore,
Those, who adde Almons, and Nuts, doe not ill; because they give it more body and substance then Maiz, or Paniso, which others use; and for my part, I should alwayes put it in to Chocolate, for Almonds (besides what I have said of them before) are moderately hot, and have a thin juice; but you must not use new Almons, as a learned Author sayes in these Verses.
Dat modicè calidum dulcisque Amigdalasuccum, Et tenuem; inducunt damna nova.
Bilis Avellanamsequitur ▪ sedroborat aluumVentris, & à fumis liberat assacaput.
And therefore they are proper for such as are troubled with ventuosities, and Hypochondriacall vapours, which offend the brain, and there cause such troublesome dreames, and sad ima
Those who mixe Maiz, or Paniso, in the Chocolate doe very ill; because those graines doe beget a very melancholy Hu
Crassa melancholicum praestant tibi Panica succum Siccant, si ponas membra, geiantque foris.
It is also apparantly windy; and those which mixe it in this Confection, do it onely for theit profit, by encreasing the quanChocolate; because every Fanega or measure of Grani containing about a Bushell and a halfe, is sold for eight shillings, and they sell this Confection for foure shillings a pound, which is the ordinary price of the Chocolate.
The Cinamon is hot and dry in the third degree; it provokes Urine, and helpes the Kidneys and Reynes of those who are troubled with cold diseases; and it is good for the eyes; and in effect, it is cordiall; as appeares by the Author of these verses.
Commoda & urinae Cynamomum & renibus affert; Lumina clarificat, dira venenafugat.
The Achiote hath a piercing attenuating quality; as appeaIndies, experienced dayly in the effects of it, who doe give it to their
And concerning the long red Peper, there are foure sorts of it. One is called Chilchotes: the other very little, which they call Chilterpin; and these two kindes, are very quicke and biTonalchiles, and these are moMexico. The other Pepper is called Chilpaclagua, which hath a broad huske; and this is not so biting as the first; nor so gentle as the last: and is that, which is usually put into the Chocolate.
There are also other ingredients, which are used in this Confection. One called Mechasuchil; and another which they call Vinecaxtli, which in the Spanish they call Orejuelas, which are sweet smelling Flowers, Aromaticall and hot. And the Mechasuchil hath a Purgative quality; for in the Indies they make a purging potion of it. In stead of this, in Spaine they put into the Confection, powder of Roses of Alexandria, for opening the Belly.
I have spoken of all these Ingredients, that every one may make choise of those which please him best, or are most pro
Cacao is mingled with all these Ingedients, which are hot; yet there is to be a greater quantity of Cacao; then of all the rest of the Ingredients, which serve to temper the coldnesse of the Cacao: Just as when wee seeke, of two Medicines of contrary qualities, to compound one, which shall be of a modera te temper: In the same manner doth reCacao, and of the hot parts of the other ingredients, which makes the Chocolate of so moderate a quality, that it differs very little from a mediocrity; and when there is not put in any ordinary pepper, or Cloves, but onely a little AnnisGallen sayes, to be true, that every mixt medicine, warmeth the cold, and cooleth the hot; bringing the example of Oyle of Roses.) By experience, I say, that in the Indies (as is the custome of that Countrey) I comming in a heat to visit a sicke person, and asking water to refresh me, they perswaded me to take a *Draught of Chocolate; which quencht my thirst: and in the morning (if I
From whence I gather that it is better to use Chocolate, afGallen in his twelfth Booke of Method, doth advise not to use Philonium, till after a yeare, or, at the least, sixe moneths; because it is a composiOpium (which is cold in the fourth degree) and of Pepper, and other Ingredients, which are hot in the third degree. This Theorum, and Doctrine, is made good by the practise, which some have made, of whom I have asked, what
Chocolate did best agree with them: and they have affirmed, that the best is that which hath beene made some moneths; and that the new doth hurt by loosening the Stomack; And; in my opinion, the reason of it is, that the unctuous or fat parts, are not altogether corrected, by the earthy parts of the Cacao. And this I shall thus prove; for, as I shall declare hereChocolate boyle, when you drinke it, the boyling of it divides the fat and oyly part; and that makes a relaxation in the Stomacke in the old Chocolate, as well as if it were new.
So that I conclude in this second poynt, that the Chocolaticall Consection is not so cold as the
Chocolate, the quality of the Cacao, and of the other Ingredients; and in the second Point, of the Complexion, which results from the mixture of them; There remaines now in the third poynt, to shew the way how to mingle them: And first I will bring the best Receipt, and the most to the purpose, that I could find out; although it be true which I have said, that one Receipt can
TO every 100. Cacaos, you must put two cods of the Indian Tongue, Chilparlagua; and in stead of those of the Indies, you may take those of Spaine, which are broadest, and least hot. One handfull of Annis-seed Orejuelas, which are otherwise called Vinacaxlidos: and two of the flowers, called Mechasuehil, if the Belly be bound. But in stead of this, in Spaine, we put in sixe Roses of Alexandria beat to Powder: One Cod of Campeche, or Logwood: Two Drams of CinaAchiote, enough to give it the colour. And if you cannot have those things, which come from the Indies, you may make it with the rest.
THe Cacao, and the other Ingredients must be beaten in a Morter of Stone, or ground upon a broad stone, which the Indians call Metate, and is onely made for that use: But the first thing that is to be done, is to dry the Ingredients, all except the Achiote; with care that they may be beaten to powder, keeping them still in stirring, that they be not burnt, or become blacke; and if they be over-dried, they will be bitCacao, which you must beate by a little and, little, till it be all powdred; and sometimes turne it round in the beating, that it may mixe the better: And every one of these Ingredients, must be beaten by it selfe; and then put all the Ingredients into the Vessell, where the Cacao is; which you must stirre together with a spoone, and then take out that Paste, and put it into the Morter, under which you must lay a little fire, after the Confection is made. But you must be very carefull, not to put more fire, than will warme it, that the unctuous part doe not dry away. And you must also take care, to put in the Achiote in the beating; that it may the better take the colour. You must Searse all the Ingredients, but oneCacao; and if you take the shell from the Cacao, it is the better; and when you shall find it to be well beaten, and inIndians put it upon the leaf of a Planten-tree; where, being put into the shade, it growes hard; and then bowing the paIndies they take it two severall waies: The one, being the common way, is to take it hot, with Atolle, which was the Drinke of the Ancient Indians (the Indians call Atolle pappe, made of the flower of Maiz, and so they mingle it with the Chocolate; and that the Atolle may be more wholsome, they take off the Huskes of the Maiz, which is windy, and melanChocolate, being dissolved with cold water, and the scumme taken off, and put into anoChocolate as you thinke fit, put in a little of the warme water, and then grind it well with the molinet; and when it is well ground, put the rest of the warme water to it; and so drinke it with Sugar.
Besides these former wayes, there is one other way; which is, to put the Chocolate into a pipkin, with a little water; and let it boyle well, till it be dissolved; and then put in sufficient water and sugar, according to the quantity of the Chocolate; and then boyle it againe, untill there comes an oyly summe upon it; and then drinke it. But if you put too much fire, it
Chocolate, which is cold; and it takes its name from the principall Ingredient, and is called Cacao; which they use at feasts, to refresh themselves; and it is made afrer this manner. The Chocolate being dissolved in water with the Molinet, take off the scumme, or crassy part, which riCacao is older, and more putrified. The scumme is laid aside by it selfe in a little dish; and then put sugar into that part, from whence you took the scumme; and powre it from on high into the scumme; and so drinke it cold. And this drinke is so cold, that it agreeth not with all mens stomacks; for by experience we finde the hurt it doth, by causing paines in the stomacke, and especially to Women. I could deliver the reason of it; but I avoyd it, be
There is another way to drinke it cold, which is called Cacao Penoli; and it is done, by adding to the same Chocolate (having made the Confection, as is before set downe) so much Maiz, dryed, and well ground, and taken from the Huske, and then well mingled, in the Morter, with the Chocolate, it falls all into flowre, or dust: And so these things being mingled, as is said before, there riseth the Scum; and so you take and drink it, as before.
There is another way, which is a shorter and quicker way of making it, for men of businesse, who cannot stay long about it; and it is more wholsome; and it is that, which I use. That is, first to set some water to warm; and while it warms, you throw a Tablet, or some Chocolate, scraped, and mingled with sugar, into a little Cup; and when the water is hot, you power the water to the Chocolate, and then dissolve it with
Chocolate, but of all other drinkes; or meates, though of themselves they are good and wholsome, they may be hurtfull. And if any finde it Opilative, it comes by the too much use of it; as when one drinkes over much Wine, in stead of comforting, and warChocolate, which hath fat parts, cannot make distribution of so great a quantity to all the parts; and that part which re
To avoyd this inconvenience; you must onely take five or sixe ounces, in the morning, if it be in winter; and if the parRubarb. And to conMay; especially in
Spaine, unlesse it bee one, who by custome of taking it, receives no prejudice by it. And if he be of a hot Constitution, and that hee have neede to take it in that season, let it, as is said before, be mingled with water of Endive; and once in foure dayes, and chiefely when he finds his stomacke in the morning to be weake and fainting. And though it be true, that, in the Indies, they use it all the yeare long, it being a very hot Countrey, and so it may seeme by the same reason it may be taken in Spaine: First, I say, that Custome may allow it: Secondly, that, as there is an extraorChocolate, which; as I have proved, hath a moderate heat. But if you drink pure wine, be the wea
You must also observe, that it being granted, as I have said, that there are earthy parts in the Cacao, which fall to the bot
Last of all, there rests one difficulty to be resolved, formerly poynted at; namely, what is the cause, why Chocolate makes most of them that drinke it, fat. For, considering that all of the Ingredients, except the Cacao, doe rather extenuate, than make fat, because they are hot and drye in the third degree. For we have already said, that the qualities which doe predoCacao, are cold, and dry; which are very unfit to adde any substance to the body. Neverthelesse, I say, that the many unctuous parts, which I have proved to be in the Cacao, are those, which pinguifie, and make fat; and the hotter inValencia, dryed, and beaten into powder, where there is any heat of the Liver or Kidnyes. And if there be any obCeterach; to which you may adde Amber, or Muske, to please the scent.
And it will be no small matter, to have pleased all, with this Discourse.
IN the Title of the Dedication, read, And one of the Lords of his Majesties most Honourable Privy Counsell of Ireland. Page 3. line 14. for mixe read mixed. p. ib. l. 32. for that it, r. that in it. p. 6. l. 19. for unctuous r. unctuous. p. 8. l. 2. r the Marginall note at Tevasco. p. ib. l. 11. r. the Marginall Note at red pepper, p. 13. l. 27. r. owne effects. p. 15. l. 12. r. every one may.