CHAP. I.

Concerning the Name of Chocolata, and its being universally used▪

THe drink called ordinarily Chocolata is by the Indians called Hernandez herb. Mexic. l. • c. 46. Gul. Piso in Mantiss. Aromat. c. 17. Chocolatl: and is compounded of Atte, as some say, or, as others, Atl, which in the Mexican language signifies water; and from the sound, which the water (wherein is put the Chocolata) makes, as Gage's Survey of the West-Indies, c. 16. Choco, Choco, Choco, when it is stirred in a cup by an Instrument called a molinet, or molinillo, untill it bubble, and rise into a froth. I shall not pursue other derivations of the name, it being sufficient,It is called Chicolate in Iaques Amproux, of the Antilles, c. 16. and Succolata, and Chuculate by Schroder. Pharmac. l. 4. that we understand one and the same thing by the several appellations of Chocolatl, Chocolata, (so it is usually called) Chocolatte, as Mr. Gage names it; or Chocholate, as Acosta Histor. nat. & moral. Indiar. l. 4. c. 22 Acosta; or Succulata, asd Mynsicht terms it; or Hernandez l 2. c. 4. Cacaotl, and Hernandez l. 3. c. 41. l. 5. c. 13. Cacaoatl, and Hernandez. l. 5. c. 41. Cacauatl: all which names it bears in the Mexican Herbal, as well as that of Chocolatl aforesaid.

In America several Countries have several drinks made out of roots and fruits variously prepared. The Northerly Gul. Piso in Mantiss. Aromat. c. 17. tract thereof principally seems to use the drink called Chocolata, in New-Spain, Mexico, and the neighbouring Provinces. If we may believe Dr. Iuanes de Barrios, who lived in those parts, it hath been immemorially drunk in the Province • f Guatimala, and as particularly appertains to that Country, as Mead to Lithuania, and Ale to England; however it may have diffused it self into other parts. And indeed it hath prodigiously spread it self not only over the West-Indies; but over Gage c. 16. Piso in Mantissa Aromat. c. 17. Spain, Portugal, Italy, France, high and low Germany, and England, yea Turky, and Persia: and hath been recommended by sundry learnedAs Hernandez, Piso, Zacchias, Severinus, & others. Physicians to the world. So that it may well merit our regards to enquire into the Nature and Reason of a drink endeared unto us by so great a repute; as the General usage of the Nobility and Populace of both Sexes, and the Authority of the learnedst and most observing persons can give it.

It is so generally used in the Spanish Colonies of the West-Indies, by the Natives, and other Inhabitants: that it alone makes up both the necessary provision for their sustenances, and their delicaci •• for extraordinary entertainments for pleasure. This is confirmed by the general vogue of the Indian writers: and whosoever shall have read Mr. Gage will no longer doubt it, when he shall find, besides the particular Chapter, in which he designes a special account of it, (most of which is transcribed out of Anton. Colmenero de Ledesma) how at sundry times he was treated therewith by way of a magnificent collation: and, being to travail, he makes a store of Chocolatte to be as important a care, as any for a journey. In Spain it is drunk all Summer, once, or twice a day; o •• indeed at any time, by way of entertainment: for however Physicians there endeavour to confine the people to Rules, yet is it generally drunk without regard to any: and it is there, as well as in the Indies, all the year long. It is drunk, by the allowance of the Physicians, once, or twice each day: and by the prevalence of custome, as often as there is occasion for entertainment, or that one is tyred through business, and wants speedy refreshment. There is a controversy about the convenience of taking it in Summer; since Anton. Colmenero disallows it beyond May. But others, as learned and observing as he, permit it all the year: and for Experience (which he takes notice of) they vouch the general practise of Sevil, both of the King, Court, and City. Nobis videtur consultissimum omni aestatis tempore potionem sumere Chocolatis. Et, si ad comprobationem valet Experientia, hoc in communi vita civi • m Hispalensium (cum sit haec calidissima regio) ita feliciter sentitur ab omnibus, ut illo carere sit apud illos infelicitas major. Et huic accidit, quod illo tempore sit hominum natura laxa maxime, & fere dissoluta: &, si verum fari licet, neminem per haec tempora video a Chocolate abstinere, neque inter intemperantes Proceres, neque temperatissimos Hispaniae Reges, nec mediae fortunae cives. Et nobis certe videtur, nullo magis tempore, quam aestate prodesse Chocolate. I think it most fit to take Chocolate all Summer long. And, if we recurr to Experiments, this is the general practise of the Inhabitants of Sevi •• (which yet is a most hot country) so that they count it a great misfortune to be deprived of it. Besides, at that time of the year, our bodies suffer a greater exolution of Spirit, and are more relaxed in their Pores, then at other times. And, to speak the truth, at this time of the year, I observe, that neither the most intemperate Courtiers, nor the most temperate Kings, nor vulgar Citizens do refrain it. And I think it never more necessary, then at that season of the year. To evidence further the prevailing use of Chocolata, we are to know, that in Spain, as well as the Indies, people will not refrain it on fasting-daies; and it is become a Case of Conscience managed with more then ordinary contests, Whether the taking of Chocolata be a violation of Ecclesiastical Fasts? The Moralists and Physicians divide upon it: nor is there one considerable Argument produced for the necessity of taking it on Fast-days, and so of reconciling it to Ecclesiastical Fastings, but that of custome: which how authentique an argument it is in this • ase, I leave to the disputes of others; being content to have proved the universal acception of this drink amongst the most sober and wisest of me • .

CHAP. II.

Concer • ing the Composition of Chocolata.

BEing now to speak more particularly of Chocolata, to prevent ambiguities, I must tell my Reader, that however I have in the foregoing Chapter spoken of Chocolata as a drink, accordingly as it is ordinarily mentioned by Writers, and in vulgar speech; yet now I shall speak of it as a paste, or mass, made into cakes, lumps, rouls, lozenges, or enclosed in boxes, (as it pleaseth the worker to make it up) which is to be dissolved in the water, and so makes but a part of the potion, or drink, yet is ordinarily termed Chocolata, though not without some impropriety of language, if we credit the already-mentioned derivation of Chocolatl.

The Indians, as they in all things almost affect a simplicity, so in the making of Chocolata they did not multiply Ingredients; and cared rather to preserve their health, then to indulge their palates: of which they have been so sollicitous, that, had not the Spanish luxury and curiosity varyed its composition with multiplicity of mixtures, either we had never been acquainted with this drink, or we must have been contented to be treated, as the invincible Cortez was by Motezuma, the last and most illustrious King of Mexico. Bernaldus del Castillo, one of Cortez his Souldiers, relating his own exploits under that famous General, in his Chapter entitul •• , Chap. 91. De la manera y persona del grande Motezuma, y de quan gran Sennor era, makes report of the stately Banquets of that Prince; and adds, Trianle frutas de todas, quantas avia en la tierra, mas no comia, si no mui poca, y de quando en quando: trajan unas como copas de oro fino, con cierta bebida hucha del mesmo Cacao, que dessian era para ten • r acceso con mugeres, (en este lengua se habla) enforces no miravamos en ello mas lo que yo vi, qua trajan sobra cinguenta jarr • s grandes hechos de buen Cacao, con su espuma, y de lo que bebia, y las mugeres le servian al beber con gra • ocato: • al tiempo del comer le assistian algunos Indios, truanes que le desian gracias, y otros que le cantavan, y bailavan, por que el Motezuma era mui afficionado a placer; y aquellos mandaua dar de los relieves, y jarros de Cacao. That is,

They brought in the several sorts of fruits, which they had in their Country, but they eat but a very little of them, and that but leasurely, and at intervals: they brought some in cups of fine gold, with a certain drink made of the Cacao it self, which they said was effectual to provoke lustful desires towards women (as they told us in their language) in which we admired noth • ng more, then that they brought in above fifty great jarrs made of good Cacao, with its froth, and that they drank it, the women serving them with a great deal of respect: and when he [Motezuma] did eat, several Indians stood by him, w ••• h gave thanks, and others, which sung to him, and danced before him, Motezuma being much given to pleasure: and he commanded the reliques of his feast to be given away, and the jarrs of Cacao.

And a little after he saies, Luego comien los de su guarda, y otros muchos sus serviciales de casa, y me parese, que sacavan sobre mil platos de aquellos manjares, que dicho tengo: pues jarros de Cacao, con su espuma, como entre Mexicanos, se • ase mas de dos mil, y fruta infinita. That is,

Afterwards his Guards, and other servants did eat, and, I think, they had above a thousand dishes of the aforesaid delicacies. After which they had brought to them jarrs of Cacao, with its froth, according to the Mexican fashion, to the number of two thousand at least, besides an infinity of fruit.

Here is no mention of any thing, but jarrs of Cacao together with their froth: which could not have frothed so, had they not been preparations of Cacao nuts made into a paste, and reserved in cakes for the sudden use of a thousand cups; they were dissolved in water, and frothed by agitation of the molinet: for without such agitation the Cacao would not froth, nor would it continue in a froth, unless that some of the meal of Indian wheat, or Maiz made into Atolle, were mixed with it. And this I find to have been the first composition of Chocolata. Hernandez l. 3. c. 46. In acute diseases to a • ay heat and fervour, and in hot distempers of the liver, they gave the Cacao nut, punned, and dissolved in water, without any other mixture. In case of the bloody flux they mixed the said nuts with a gumm called Olli, and so cured them miraculously. Nor did they acquiesce in simple preparations of the said Cacao nut; they took of Cacao nuts, and a grain called I know not what this Pocholt should be, if it be not Maiz (there being as great variety of names, as Kingdomes in the Indies) or Paniso: both which I find to have been put into the Chocolata of old. Pocholt, of each an equal quantity, & grinded them together in equal proportions; and, when they used it, they took that paste, and dissolved in an earthen vessel, and agitated it with a molenillo, till the more oily parts and fatty did swim on top: then did they take of the said unctuous part, and put to the rest some meal of Indian wheat, and having reduced it to a potable liquor, they did remix the oyl, or fat, taken off before, and so drunk it luke-warm. And this is the Chocolatl, of which Hernandez speaks, and calls peculiarly by that name in his Chapter concerning Cacaua Quahuitl, or the Cacao-tree. And that this was the primitive Chocolata seems evident from what Benzonus l. 2. Benzonus says, who lived there amongst the first Planters. He travailed through the Kingdom of Nicaragua, and observed, that they made a certain cooling-drink of the Cacao nuts: they grinded th • nuts into a paste, and, when they used it, they dissolved it ( • eing pouder'd) and milled it, tempering it by little and little with water in an Indian cup: and sometimes they added a littl • pepper; and this was their ordinary drink; which they did drink themselves, and • ave to wearied travellers, as well as to the sick. This they offered to Benzonus, and when he with an abhorrency refused such a drench, they admired, and laughed at him. But certainly it was not improved to any deliciousness of tast, since he saith it was bitterish, and that it was more fit to be hogs-wash, then drink for rational men. The same may be collected fromHistor. Ind. l. 4. c. 22. Acosta, who saith, that The chiefest use the Indians make of Cacao is in a drink, which they call Chocholate, whereof they make great account in that countrey, foolishly, and without reason: for it is loathsom to such, Mr. Gage, speaking of the ordinary Indians of Guatemala, saith (ch. 19.) that they drink of their poor simple Chocolatte, without Sugar, or any compounds, or of Atolle, untill their bellies be ready to burst. And in the same Chapter, a little before, he says, they call • heir neighbours to Chocolatte, and finish an house without any charges, more then of help them, which they minister in great cups of above a pint, not putting in any costly materials, as do the Spaniards, but only a little Anise-seed, and Chile, or Indian pepper: or else they half fill the cup with Atolle, and pour thereon as much Chocolatte, as will fill the cup, and colour it. as are not acquainted with it, having a skum, or froth, that is very unpleasant to taste, if they be not very well conceited thereof; yet it is a drink very much esteemed amongst the Indians, wherewith they feast Noble-men as they pass thorough their country.

This is that original Chocolata, to the use whereof the Indians were brought, not by any delicacy of the tast, but evident testimonies and •• nse of its great utility. Hujus potionis long a experientia satiati, utilibus admoniti; so saith Dr. Iuanes de Barrios, who lived there immediately after the conquest; as also did Hernandez, and Benzonus, and Acosta.

It is then clear, that the Indian ordinary Chocolata was made of the Cacao nut, and meal of Indian wheat, and water, and Pocholt, and now and then some Pepper called Chille, which was put in, more, or less, according to the necessity of the Patient's stomach, or other circumstances: So that they made divers sorts of it, some hot, some cold, some temperate, and put therein much of that Chili, or Chille. So saith Acosta in the place above-mentioned. And I observe, that Hernandez, though in the making up of Chocolatl, where he speaks of the composition of it, (which is to be supposed the ordinary one, because absolutely and indefinitely mentioned there) he add no more Ingredients, then I have already mentioned, yet in other places he tells us that for weak, Hernan. l. 2. phlegmatique, and windy stomachs, they added Xochinacaztli, or your Gage calls them Orejuelas Orichelas: so they added Tlilxochitl, or theId. l. 2. c. 17. Vaynillas for the like ends, and to strengthen the brain, and womb. To give it an adstringency, and to strengthen a stomach debilitated, and prone to a flux, or diarrhaea, they added Id. l. 3. c. 41. Achiotl, or Achiote. So, in case of cold Stomachs, and Phlegmatiqu • Obstructions, they addedId. l. 5. c. 13. Mecaxochitl; which Anton. de Ledesma and Gage call Mecasuchill: and Paulus Zacchias, Mecacu • e. And, in case of Coughs, they addedId l. 5. c. 41. T • peyantli. But, besides these drinks, confessedly owned by Hernandez under the name of Chocolata, there is another, which however it be not reckoned as a sort of Chocolatl, but distinct from it, yet was it made of Cacao nuts, and seems • o have been a leading drink to the Chocolata now in use: and it is called by Hernandez theId. I 3. c. 46. compounded Atatexi. The simple potion of Atatexli is made of one hundred Cacao nuts, crude, or prepared, and beaten well, and so mixed with as much prepared Maiz, as can be taken up betwixt both hands joyned together. Compounded Atatexli was made by the addition of Mecaxochitl, or Mecasuchill, Xochinacatzli, or Orichelas, and Tlixcochitl, or Vaynillas. These were powdered, and mixed with the rest afore-mentioned Ingredients of simple Atatexli, and being well milled, they powred them out of one vessel into another, lifting it up on high, that so it might richly froth, and the more fat and oily parts swim on the top, and render it more pleasant. This Potion was not used for sustenance alone, or as a drink invented by an enforcing necessity, but, out of a luxurious designe, to provoke lust: whereas the simple Atatexli did refrigerate.

I must beg pardon of my Reader for representing so i • perfectly the aforesaid Indian drinks; for the Mexican Herbal is so defective, as it is pub •• shed in Latin (for the Spanish is incomparably better, if I may judge thereof by some citations, I have seen) that I have the satisfaction by omitting nothing that is material in that book; that whosoever, with no greater helps then I have, should engage in the same affair, would not discharge the employment better then I have done.

When I consider the aforesaid compounded Atatexli, and compare it with the present compositions of Chocolata at this day recorded, I cannot think, but what we use at present is the descendent of that Atatexli, and not of Chocolatl: for the Ingredients are Cacao-nuts, Mecaxochitl, Orichelas, and Vaynillas, are the same; the manner of useing it the same: and, at this day, the Indians and Black-moors Gage c. 16 • do mix Maiz with their Cacao-nuts in the grinding, putting in withall Achiote, Anise-seeds, and a few Chiles, or red Pepper.

And, now I come to speak of the present ways of making Chocolata, I shall represent those ways, which are authenticated by Physicians; and among these that of Antonio Colmenero de Ledesma first occurs.

Gage c. 16. Piso in Mant. Ar. c. 17. To every hundred nuts of Cacao he put two cods of Chile called long red Pepper, one handful of Anise-seeds, and Orichelas, or Orejaelas, and two of the flo • ers called Mecasuchill, one Vaynilla • , or instead thereof (if the party were costi • e) • ix Alexandrian Roses beaten to powder, two drams of Cinnamom, twelve Almonds, and as many Hasel-nuts, half a pound of Sugar, and as much Achiote as would colour it.

Paulus Zacchius in his Italian Discourse about Hypochondriacal Melancholy doth propose this way.

Piso in Mant. Aromat. c. 17. Take twelve pound of Cacao nuts finely powdered, of Cinnamom finely powdered one pound, half a pound of Anise-seeds, six Vaynillas finely powdered, four handfulls of the flowers of Mecacuce, or Mecaxochitl, of Maiz three pound, one pound of Ai • nzoli (or half a pound of sweet Almonds) bruised and well beaten, of Achiote half an ounce, of Sugar four pound, or as you please.

Instead of Mecaxochitl, and the Vaynillas, he allows to substitute one Nut • eg, and twelve Cloves. Out of these he bids us frame a mass.

Besides these Prescripts, other Receipts put in other Ingredients with a great variety, and difference one from the other: some put in a proportion of black Pepper; some of long Pepper; some retain that of Chilli, or long red Pepper; Cinna • mom, Cloves, Almonds, Hasel-nuts, Orejuela, Vaynillas, Musk, Amber-grease, Orange-flower-water, are things usually put in, or omitted; as also Nutmeg •• ▪imon and Citron-pill, Cardamoms, Fennel-seeds, Chymical oyls of Nutmeg and Cinnamom, and the most delicate Spice called Iamaica-pepper; nay and Achiote too is sometimes left out, or changed for Santals, according to the devise of the Chocolata-maker, or particular exigency of the Patient's disease.

In the common Chocolata sold so cheap there is not any thing, but eight ounces of the Nuts They are but pitifully prepared, for they cannot afford to pick or hull their nuts, nor to searce them: for they sell it in the Chocolata-seller for two shillings, or half a crown, each pound; the Dutch for eighteen, nay twelve pence: nor do they know the difference betwixt one sort of nut, and another. prepared, and powdered, seven ounces of Sugar, and one ounce of Spice; viz. half an ounce of Cinnamom, two drams of Iamaica-pepper, or other Pepper, and as much of Cloves, Nutmeg, and Limon-pill, some colour it with Achiote; some decline to do so, some put into each pound, to make it extraordinary, six grains of red Pepper, or Chiles. The Iews at Amsterdam put in Bean-flower usually, instead of Maiz.

In the making of it up these Directions are given by Mr. Gage.

The Cacao and other Ingredients must be beaten in a mortar of stone, or (as the Iadians use) ground upon a broad stone, which they call Metal, and is only made for that use: but first the Ingredients are all dryed, except the Achiote, with care, that they may be beaten to powder, keeping them still in stirring, that they be not burnt, or become black: for, 〈◊〉 they be over-dryed, they will be bitter, and lose their virtue. The Cinnamom, and the long red Pepper are to be first beaten, with the Anise-seed, and then the Cacao, which must be beaten by little and little, till it be all powdered: and in the beating it must be turned round, that it may mix the better. Every one of these Ingredients must be beaten by it self, and then all be put into the vessel where the Cacao is, which you must stir together with a spoon, and then take out that paste, and put it into a Mortar, under which there must be a little fire, after the Confection is made: but if more fire be put under it, then will warm it, then the unctuous part will dry away. The Achiote must also be put in in the beating, that it may the better take the colour. All the Ingredients must be searced, except the Cacao: and, if from the Cacao the dry shell be taken, it will be the better, where it is well-beaten, and incorporated (which will be known by the shortness of it) then with a spoon (so in the Indies it is used) is taken up some of the paste, which will be almost liquid, and made into Tablets, or else without a spoon put into Boxes, and when it is cold it will be hard. Those, that make it into Tablets, put a spoonfull of the paste upon a piece of paper, (the Indians put it on the leaf of the plant in the tree) where being put into the shade, (for in the • un it melts, and dissolves) it grows hard: and then bowing the leaf, or paper, the Tablet falls of, by reason of the fatness of the paste; but, if it be put into any thing of earth, or wood, it sticks fast, and comes not off without scraping, or breaking.

I never saw any Chocolata made up in a mortar, my self; nor do I understand how the mixture can be accurately made therein. Some beat the Spices severally in a mortar, and searce them curiously: but, as the vehement agitation of the pestle doth dissipate the more subtle parts, (and it is long in doing) so it doth not equally break them into small particles, notwithstanding their passing the searce: I conceive it a much better wa • , to beat the greater Spice grossly, and afterwards to mix the Vaynillas, cut into pieces, and dryed, and so to grinde them on a stone-table (such as are made on purpose to make up Chocolata) and so with less trouble, and less dissipation of Spirits, and subtle parts, (a gentle fire being under) will they grinde to an impalpabl • Powder, (each acting upon other in th • grinding, as well as being pressed by the iron rowler) and, besides that, mix most accurately. The Spicery being thus prepared, the Cacao nuts are dryed either on a digesting furnace, or in a kettle over the fire, stirring and turning them carefully, that the nuts may so dry as to shell, but not to burn: for then the Chocolata will be bitter. Being pill'd, or shell'd, the nuts, being cold, will beat to a powder, which you may searce, (as you do the Spice) which is the best way, and practised by the best Chocolata-makers in Spain, and by my self always. The hulls also, many of them▪ are beat by themselves, & mix'd afterwards with the nut, and Spice, to compound Chocolata ordinarily in Spain, and by many in England, to make the common Chocolata. And Mr. Gage, and Piso, whilst they say it is better to leave out the hulls, leave us to conjecture, that many put them in all. Having thus prepared the Spicery, and Nuts, they are to be mix'd, and g • inded on a table, with a gentle fire under it. In the working, if the fire be too hot, the Nuts will run into too great an oyliness, or dissolution of the fatty parts, and the Chocolata will not keep any time. If it be too cold, it will not work, but stick to the rowler. From whence we may judge of the controversie, whether an iron, or stone-table be best:It doth also work blacker on an iron-table: but who prefers a stone-rowle • , before an iron one, must never have undergone the trouble of working with the former: which is much greater then with an iron one; as far as I could see: nor was the Chocolata better. for on a thin iron-table it is impossible to preserve an equal heat, and consequently some parts of the Cacao nut will be reduced to too great a dissolution and unctuousness, and others to too little: and this inequality must needs occasion an unequal mixture of parts, and consequently a propensity to corrupt: besides that they are enforced to make it up too soon (it growing too oylie) before the parts are equally mix'd. But under a thick stone-table each degree of encreasing heat is soon observ'd, and remedied. I must also add, that an iron-table works the Chocolata blacker, then doth a stone.

CHAP. III.

An enquiry into the nature of the particular Ingredients, whereof Chocolata is made.

THe Cacao nut, as it is the principal and constant Ingredient in the composition of Chocolata, so it merits an exact enquiry into its nature: for it is by it, that we are mainly to give an estimate of the nature and effects of the whole Composition.

The Cacao nut (if I may so call it, and not rather the seed of a greater, but disregarded fruit) is a Nut bigger (or as big) as a great Almond, which grows upon the Cacao-tree, and ripens in a great husk, wherein sometimes are found more, sometimes less Cacaos; sometimes twenty, sometimes thirty, nay fourty, and above. The tree is call'd by the Indians Cacaua Quahuitl, it grows (wilde in the moist grounds of Guatimala, and Nicaragua; and by plantation elsewhere) to an indifferent heighth, equal to our largest Plum-trees in bigness; • t abounds in foliage, and the leaves are sharp-pointed, compar'd by so •• to the leaves of By Antoniu Herrera. Chesnuts, and by others to the leaves of anPiso, and Hernandez. Orange. It be • rs a great Flower, of a Saffron-colour; which fading way, there succeeds a large fruit call'd Cacauacentli: when it is ripe, it is as bigBenzonus compares them to Cucumbers for size: fructus Amygdalorum speciem referens, siliquis quibusdam veluti cu • urbitis includitur, crassitudine & latitudine cucumeris. as a Musk-million, as thick, and as weighty; if we may believe Piso, and Hernandez: though others think the comparison too large, since (in Iamaica) they are not observ'd to exceed the bigness of a large Pear. But there are several sorts of Cacao-trees, (and their Nuts differ more or less in faculty) so that difference of trees and soils may occasion the discrepancy of Authors. Within this putaminous husk, or large fruit, ly the Cacahuatl, or (as the Ludovicus Lopes t. 2. Instruct. consc. c. 112. calls it Checa And • iso in Latine Cacacius. Benzonus saith, it is usually call'd by the Indians Cacauate. Spaniards corruptly call them) the Cacao nuts, being about the bigness of Almonds, each of them enveloped in a slimy substance, and film, of a Phlegmatique complexion, but of a most relishing tast: which the women love to suck of from the Cacao, finding it cool, and in the mouth dissolving into water. Under which is another shell▪ which, when bak'd in the Sun, somewhat resembles the colour and substance of a Ch • snut-hull. Under that hull is lodged that nut, which is the most pretious commodity in the Indies, as Acosta, and others tell us, and which makes up C • iefly our Chocolata. It is of a colour like to the outside of a Chesnut, and divided into several scissures▪ and pieces, as is aThis is the comparison used by Piso, but the resemblance is not very great, especially in some sorts of Nuts. cow's-kidney, but yet joyned together, and in those small divisions (after d • ying) there seems to remain some little reliques of a Phlegmatique moisture, which often degenerates into an hoa • iness, and at last ends in the final corruption of the Nut. It is of such a substance, that being dryed on a digesting fornace, or pan, it will beat to a fine powder: being laid on a stone, or table, the least warmth makes the said powder dissolve into an oyliness, or fattyness instantly; and it will alone work into a paste, without any intermixture, and keep a year. Which paste well made up alone (or with Pocholt) was, I presume, all the Chocolata, that Motezuma, and the antient Indians had, then dissolving it in Atolle. It will beat into a Powder, and so may be remix'd with new Ingredients of spicery, and sugar, to make the more delicious Chocolata. I took a quantity of it (being exquisitely ground) and dissolved it in hot water, and having • et it stand a while by the fire to dissolve, I milled it, (without the mixture of any thing, but pure Cacao paste, and water) it frothed moderately, but the froth was but of little continuance, and, being suffered to cool, it gathered like fat (both in colour, and substance) on the top of the most fat broths, or pottage, to a great thicknesse: but when it came to be cold, however it had before a resemblance rather of fat, then oyl, it gathered into a resemblance of cr •• m; and indeed it had just such a consistence, but the colour was yellowish. To the bottom there did settle a great quantity, which I took, and tasted of: and I found it to tast just as Almond butter exactly, as to its unctuousnesse; but it had the bitternesse, which is proper to the Cacao nut. The water it self beneath the cream was reddish, and after I had purely taken of the cream, it had not only a fatty taft, but taking some out, and bathing my hands in it, I found it extreme fatty. I took that Setling, and heated it in fresh water • ill it began to boil, then I milled it again, and let it stand to cool: it was at first extraordinary fatty; then, being cold, it yielded its cream, and a red shining Cacao-butter (as I may call it by an allusion to Almond • butter) and a coloured fatty water, as before; only with this difference, that the Cacao butter seemed a little less unctuous, and not so perfectly to dissolve, and glide off the tongue, as before. Which put me upon another Experiment of decocting, and milling it, till I might extract all the fat out of it, and discover the nature of this setling; if it might be so terrestrial, and obstructive, as some imagine. I hea • ed the aforesaid setling in fresh water, and milled it well; and instead of cr • am (though the water, as it cooled, shewed signes of a great fattinesse) there did gather on the top a thin covering or 〈 in non-Latin alphabet 〉 (if I may so call it) of fat, such as will rise on mutton pottage not too fat. The wat •• proved unctuous to my hand, as before, but the se • ling had no longer the fineness, and mel • ing ta • t of Almond butter, but seem'd as if it were not finely powder'd, and besides its bitterishnesse, to have an evident piercing adstringency. From whence I concluded, that it could not be obstructive, but opening, and that when the fatty alimentous parts were distributed for nourishment, the others (as before they seemed to corroborate the stomach, and promote digestion; which things moderately bitter and adstringent do: so now they) open the obstructions, promote concoction in the several guts, and go away in stool: which is the excellency of bread corn, that the bran doth promote the appetite, and digestion, and keeps the body open, and is more healthy then Manchet, and it is mix'd by many with successe in Diet-drinks to this end.

And it is further observable, that in this Experiment, whereas the Nut it self, and the paste of Cacao, and the Cream, and the two first Setlings (yea, and the Fatty water) did by their burning give more or lesse visible testimonies of their unctuous nature in their flames, the last greety and incoherent Setling would not burn at all in flames. Besides, during the reiteration of these Experiments, (which was a fortnight) there never appeared any augmentation of the cream by standing beyond a few hours; nor no alteration in it by standing s •• dry dayes: the cream, the water, the Setling were still the same, as to consist • nce, colour, and taste: it never, as to any part of it, sowred in a fortnight's keeping, nor gave any sign of corruption, though, during that time, I boiled, and milled the same decoction several •• mes, and upon any fire to heat it I observed that Setling to arise, and incorporate with the rest, the cream dissolving; as Urine, when turned at the fire: and when it cooled, it did resetle before; as the said Urines do in like case. At the same time, as I tryed sundry Experiments with paste of the one lump, I observed, that, having boiled the water, and dissolved the Cacao paste in it, and milled it but a little: though upon cooling it seemed very fat, yet did it yield but little cream. Another part, that was well milled, and yielded as much cream, as covered the pipkin all over to a moderate thicknesse, being skimmed, and milled, and cool'd, and creamed again, I took it, and heated it till it began to boil, and then poured it out of the pipkin instantly, and it came out so clearly, and without any reliques of water in the pipkin, as water doth usually glide off oyled cloth, or other vessels, when cold water is powred on cold grease. And this happened upon three tryals, the water being thoroughly unctuous by being twice or thrice heated, and milled (for else it succeeds not:) and to make it more conspicuous, in several parts off the pipkin I could observe some little remainders of the water slide off in round globes, or corpuscles, as it will do off oyled cloth, or greased vessels.

From whence I thoug • t I might collect a reason, why the farrynesse of the Nut doth not annoy the stomach, being taken in drink, as other fat, or oyl will: for it exactly commixs with the liquor, and swims not on the top: (in these last Experiments it was never milled; but, having been milled some dayes before, and cooled in the pipkin, it was again heated, and stirred with a spoon a little, and powred out) and if, as it cools, part of it seem to ascend, yet doth not that all condense into cream: but the water under is fatty; and as it is hot, and boils, it is still so (as appears by this Experiment:) which happens not so in other fat broths. Thus, the unctuous parts not floating (as in fat, or butter, dissolved in posset drink to provoke, or help vomits) on the top, and the bitterish and adstringent parts by a little heat commixing with the other, it must be a very great repletion can make Cacao paste offensive to the stomach, and its orifice.

I took also Cacao paste, and dissolved, and milled it well in cold water; and it did froth, and upon standing yield a cream in as great a proportion, as that did, which had been dissolved in hot water, and well milled: the cream was yellowish▪ and inflammable; the setling was just as to •• lour, and taste like to the other: saving that, drinking of it before it setled, I found it to be nauseous to the stomach; so as I, who hitherto never distasted any thing I had a mind to take, could not much relish the drinking of it: not that it was vehemently cold to the stomach, but that the fattinesse of it made the water unpleasant being cold: and it had also a rawishnesse in it, as if the fat required boiling, or further Cookery; which yet I felt not upon eating either the nuts, or paste of Cacao. Or else it was because that the warmth of the water causeth a more absolute commixture of the parts, which may prevent, as well as of those, which may cause nauseousnesse. Or it was because that many things may be taken hot without offence, or distast, which cannot be so, when cold: the heat of the vehicle either correcting the potion, or corroborating the stomach.

I took also some simple Cacao paste, and put it into cold water, and set it on a gentle fire, stirring it with a spoon till it was dissolved: I suffered it to boil gently, and kept it all day in such a posture, that it did either boil, or continued boiling hot, but rather the latter. After it had stood seven or eight hours (during which time I observed the Decoction to grow extraordinary oily, and to fill the spoon with a water so thick, that I thought it was transformed all into fat, and oil • it appeared all full of globous corpuscles, 〈◊〉 if it had been oil broken into parcels: but these Corpus • les did never embody into greater quantities, nor commix upon agitation; yet by long digestion I observed they grew to a larger size, yet would not commix: there being besides them a distinct fattinesse to be seen. And in the end, I perceived a new body to discover it self in great quantities; it was not globous, but flattish; and for colour, and taste, and nature participated more of mutton fat, then any thing else. It was of colour yellowish, inclining to white: and had little taste of the Cacao's bitternesse, or adstringency. These fatty Particles I could not get to embody into one, or more bigger bodies: though I could agi •• te them with a spoon (for I never milled them) into lesse; yet did I perceive, that some of them were bigger then others, and at last some of them did enlarge themselves into a size as broad as a Groat, and of an indifferent depth, or thicknesse: yet could I not stir these into one or more bigger masses. Whereupon I set it to cool: and it was long before these bodies of oil, & fat, did harden, and disappear out of their former shape: so that I thought I had resolved it into Oil, since no Cream was to be seen. But being called away by business (which permitted me not the leasure to observe the minute •• anges in this reiterated Experiment) at my return I found several whiti •• or pale-yellowish bodies like to Fat swimming on the top, there being no Cream, nor other body to overcast the top, and hinder their free floating: some were bigger, thicker, and broader, and longer then others, and of no determinate Figure. They were very solid, and melted on the tongue totally, as Fat, or Butter would, or Clarified Deer's-suet, to which they were equal in hardnesse: they had (as I and others judged) a farewell or relish of the Cacao at last upon the tongue. So that I observed, that no dissolution could totally separate its bitterishnesse, and little piercing adstringency, which is peculiar to the Nut: and consequently it could never easily become offensive, or obstructing. The Water or Decoction was fatty, and had a deep red tincture▪ and the Setling as it was deeply red, so it had little of Oilinesse, or resemblance of Almond butter; but it was attended with a roughn • sse, or sensible inequality of parts, the unctuousnesse being almost as much extracted from this Setling, as from that, which had been Decocted, and Milled in several Waters; of which I already spoke. I could see no tokens of what carryed, whilst it was hot, the appearance of Oil. Having shewed it for several dayes to divers persons, I heated it again, and instantly the said hard Fat dissolved, the Setling did remix with the rest of the Liquor: and I had a Decoction of a most deep red, and swimming with larg • Fatty •• d Oily Particles: I caused it to be well m •• led, and setting it to cool, the said large innatant bodies, resembling a Solution of Fat in Water, and parcels of Oil, were dissipated, and broken, or so incorporated with other Corpuscles, that I could get very few, and those very very small pieces of solid Fat: (the same happened in compound Chocolata) though I had before had lumps, that might weigh ten or twelve grains. But there did gather on the top a skin, or cuticle (very thin) though the body of the water and top did shine with a visible Fattishnesse; and powred out of the pipkin with such an unctuousness • , or oylinesse, being scalding hot, that nothing did, or would stick, or otherwise, then glide off, as from oiled cloth, which it doth not, when powred out cold. Of fat, it was not hard, but having an affinity with the usual cream already mentioned in other tryals, but improportionate to the fat dissolved: and the setling seemed to me more unctuous, then b • fore, and like Almond butter.

I have not time to multiply reflections hereon, but whosoever shall set himself to observe the dissolution of Cacao paste, or Chocolata cakes, according as they are milled in water, or not milled; and according as they boil, and not boil therein; and according as they gradually dissolve on a quick or leasurely fire, will finde a great diversity of parts, occasioned by the different texture of •• em: and shall finde both colour and taste to vary several times (especially in the Compound Chocolata) to his amazement. I shall conclude with one tryal more; The powder of Cacao paste tastes very fatty, yet (according to variety of nuts) it dissolves with the least heat on a stone like butter: but a great heat dries it, and leaves a red, bitterish, and astringent powder behind. I took also of the said paste, and heated it on a fire shovel; and if at first it melted with a gentle heat, it did evaporate away its oily parts by a more violent one: and▪ smelling to the smoke arising from it, I had my smell affected with such a nidor, as issues from fat, when broiled on the coals, but milder.

These circumstances of its fattinesse, and oilin • sse, and of its nidorous exhalations being burned, do very much recommend the Nut for a very nutritive thing. Its dissolving by the least fire, or warmth, argues its facile digestiblenesse. Its easy concretion evidenceth its promptitude to be assimilated into nourishment of the parts. And its nidorous vapour, being burnt, proves, that it carries with it (if any can doubt this, that sees the Oil, or Fat, swimming in the pure Cacao decoction) at least a potential fat, and is a greater • logy of its symbolizing with our bodies, then it is for Bread, that by Chymical digestion it should in time be converted into blood, as some tell us.

☞ But to improve this Argument from reason a little, it is the general •• gue of the Indians, and Indian writers, wh •• h is no lesse, then the testimony of uncontroverted Experience, that this Cacao nut is very nourishing: that it is multi nutrimenti, is the assertion of Hernandez, Herb. Mexic. lib. 3. c. 46. Hernandez: that it doth fatten (being made into Chocolatl by the sole mixture of • ocholt grains) by frequent using it, is likewise avowed by him. Chocolatl paratum ex granis Pocholt, & Cacauatl, aequâ mensurâ, quod magnopere traditur corpora impinguare, si frequentiùs eâ uti contingat. And Dr. Iuanes de Barrios Dr. Iuanes de Barrios de Chocolata. tells us, that, when they used in Guatemala the plain and simple Chocolata, they found it very nourishing. Es comoda pues ella sola suple el almuerso, y algunas otras comidas, por que con ella no es menester, pan, ni corne, ni bebida, y en un momento se hace y sacona, lo que no ai en las otras.

In fine Io. de Laet, I. de Lae • Hist. Ind. Occid. l. 7. c. 2. tells us, that it is very nourishing (praeclarè nutrit) and that the Indians by the help of Cacao nuts alone do subsist all day, notwithstanding their great labour, and heat. Which is a truth well known to our Seamen, and Land soldiers, in, and about Iamaica, that by the help of the Cacao nut made into paste with Sugar, and dissolved in water, neither having, nor wanting other food, they usually sustain themselves, sometimes for a long season; and I have been assured, that the Indian women do so feed on it, (eating it often) that they scarce eat any solid meat • wice in a w • ek; yet feel no deca • of heat, or strength. All which is purely to be ascribed to the nourishing nature of •• e Cacao nut, and not to the other Ingredients; since few of them are found endowed with any such quality, nor is there intermixture with the Cacao nut of any long date, the latter of which hath been already evidenced in the beginning of my discourse: and I shall demonstrate the former, before I conclude.

But however that the Cacao nut, being grinded into a paste, and dissolved in hot water, be so nourishing, yet have the Indians and Spaniards an ill opinion of the Nut, to eat it whole, and not in the usual manner of drink. Which, as it is told me by that ingenious Gentleman, Major Fairfax (who lived long in Iamaica, and is newly returned) so it is confirmed by the authority of Mr. Gage. Gage Survey of the West-Indies c. 16. The Cacao, if it be not stirred, grinded, and compounded to make the Chocolatta; but be eaten, as it is in the fruit, (as many Criolian and Indian women eat it) it doth notably obstruct, and cause stoppings, and make them look of a broken, pale, and earthy colour, as do those, that eat earthen ware, as pots, or pieces of lime walls; which is much used amongst the Spanish women, thinking, that pale and earthy colour, though with obstructions, and stoppings, well becomes them. Which Observation, if it be true, makes no more to the prejudice of the Cacao nut, then it pr • judiceth Wheat, Oat-meal, or the like, • hat being eaten unmasticated, or raw, they do create, or encrease the Green-sicknesse in maids. I say, if it be true: for here in England the honourable Robert Boyle can bear me witnesse, that several honourable Relations of his have eaten them for several years, and continue to do so; in the beauty of whose faces the world, as much as it is interested therein, can observe no diminution: yea, they professe it as a real and experienced truth, that, if at any time their heads ake, to eat twelve of those nuts is a present remedy. Another Lady protested to me, that by the eating of those Nuts, she feels Hypochondriacal vapours (with which she is much troubled) to be instantly allayed, or appeased. So far are they from participating of the usual Malignancy of Nuts, to beget shortness of breath, Obstructions, and Head-aches. To the former Experiencies I must add, that they are observed to be more laxative, then binding; and that neither Mr. Boyle, nor my self (who did eat two pound once, and great quantities since on purpose) ever felt any heavyness, or annoyance in the stomach, Head, or elsewhere. Nor have I (as neither do the others) been curious to choose particular times to eat them in:Here I desire to observe, that, though I have my self many times eaten great quantities of the Cacao nuts unreduced to paste (as also of the simple • nd compound paste) yet did I never find 〈◊〉 Stomach to be fill'd by them (as i • • hey had dissolved instantly therein) but • ather satiated, though not cloy'd; which happens not in other solid food taken so: nor could I ever perceive they did that way much nourish me; though I did eat at one time beyond any proportion, that I drank at another; and yet was fed and sensibly refreshed by the latter course. but at all hours, and seasons, Morning, and Evening, before, and after meals: all day, as opportunity, or other circumstances invited us thereto. It may be then, that the obstructions, and discolou • ed complexion of the Women in the Indies eith • r is fabulous; or to be attributed to their eating the Cacao Nuts, whilst yet they are not sufficiently cured from their excrementitious moysture, and humidity: or that they eat another sort of Cacao Nuts, then should be used in Chocolata: (for it is a great caution in the making Chocolata, not only, that the Nuts be well cured, and dryed; the older being accounted the best, if not corrupted, and decayed: and that they come from Caracas, and Soconusco, not Guaiachil, or the like; but that they be of the sort call'd Hernandez I. 3. c. 46. Gul. Piso in Mant. Arom. cap. 18. Clalcacahuatl especially: whereas they they make Confects of Hernandez ibid. Quauhpatlathli, (or Patlaxt, which Gage Surv. c. 16. is not so usefull as the ordinary, yet is used by the meaner sort.) Or, if it must be understood of the right Cacao (which they often eat Piso in Mant. Ar. c. 18. & Anton. de Herrera cap. 10. Hist. Ind. Occid. roasted, and made into Confects, and their Women fall into Hysterical and Hypochon • riacal Distempers, very difficult to cure; which is avowed by Piso, as an usual accident there, as well as by Mr. Gage) I can only say, that it hath not yet happened so here: and that however, we ought to remember that old Arabian Maxim 〈◊〉 Physick, Qui non bene masticat, odit animam suam; He, that doth not chew his food well, is an enemy to his own life. Of so great Consequence is either that salival ferment in the mouth, which inchoates digestion, being impressed into the thing chewed; or the due comminution, and subtiliation o • food: it being well known, that the eating of any meat in great morsels, and without chewing, occasioneth the inconveniencies attributed to the eating of the Nuts not reduced into a paste by Grinding. For it is observable, that the Paste of the nut will melt in the mouth perfectly, if it be well made: but the nut will not (that I could observe) though well chewed. And therefore it may seem a just caution, to weak stomachs especially, that their Chocolata be made with a Paste exquisitely made, the Nut being first powder'd, then searced finely, and then carefully grinded. And then there will be little or no inconvenience from the eating the Cacao Nut so order'd, either in Pastills, or Cakes; provided the other Ingredients be not noxious.

I shall now speak of the qualities and temperament of the Cacao Nut. And indeed in Taste it is none of the most pleasant, to those that are not used to it: which made Clusius say, that, besides its adstringent Taste, it had so unplea • ant an one, that it was no wonder, if such▪ as first taste the primitive Chocolata, care • ot for it. Of the same judgment was Benzonus: for which he was laughed at by the Nicaraguans, and necessity made him to comply at last with them in drinking it in that original and simple manner. It hath a Taste somewhat bitterish, and sub-adstringent: and hath such a mixture of parts, that Authors no way agree in Charactering its temper. If we look on the Nut, and taste it without any other preparation, then that of taking off the hull, one would accord with De plant. Ind. Occid. c. 54. Roblez; El Cacao es frio y seco de su templansa, y per esto tienen partes astringentes, con que opila: The Cacao nut is by temperament cold, and dry, and therefore hath adstringent parts, with which it begetteth Obstructions. Truly that it is dry, seems then sensible: and that it is cold, the universal experience of all, who say it

Hernandez lib. 3. cap. 46. Acutâ • gritudine laborantibus exhiberi solet ex • o semine parata potio, • ui nihil praetereà commixtum sit, contemperando aestui, & fervori placando, & eis, quos calida intemperies hepatis, al • eriúsve partis vexat.

Benzonus lib. 2. Ex nucleo Cacao fiunt sorbitiunculae refrigeranies: eam ob causam adeò expetitae, ut cum iis quidvis vel pretio, vel usu earum commutent.

Jo. de Laet lib. 6. cap. 2. H •• t. Ind Occid. Simplex enim potio (sc. fructus Cacao) refrigerat, & nutrit insigni • er.

allays thirst incredibly, and cools the Liver, or any other inflamed part, seems seems a pregnant Argument. And of the same judgment with Roblez (who lived in Peru) was Dr. Iuanes de Cardenas, who lived in the Indies, and practised Physick there, and made use of his • wn judgment, as well as the Narrations of the Natives. He thinks the Cacao nut to be cold and dry in a degree betwixt the first and second. Because he is an eminent Writer, and his Assertions may perhaps suit best with the generality of Physicians inured to old Hypotheses, I shall set down the substance of his judgment as to the Cacao nut.

Dr. Iuanes de Cardenas lib. 7. De propr. Chocolatis. He acknowledges a triple distinction of parts in the Cacao nut; from whence ariseth a ternary of distinct Qualities in it, The first is a cold, dry, earthy, and melancholy substance: which if it prevail above the rest, it produceth Obstructions, and Melancholy, and destroies concoction. The second is airy, hot, and proportionate to butter, which by agitation, and milling, riseth in froth. This he reputes to be hot and moist, and of a lenifying nature, which, whilest it prevails, begets a quite contrary effect: for it nouri • heth much, and multiplies Blood, and vital Spirits, and enables men to labour. This butyrous substance doth principally manifest it self in the Cacao nut, when it is indifferent aged, and hath been kept a good while: and is not a little helped in the shewing it self, by being roasted, or heated in a frying-pan, or kettle, before the oil be drawn, or it be made into a paste. The third sort of parts, which he professes to be in it, is hot, and dry, which carries w •• h it a faint resemblance of adustion, which makes it to seem bitterish to the taste. By reason of the latter parts, it becomes penetrating, and conveys the other alimentous parts into the body; it provokes sweat, and monethly evacuations in women, it opens all Obstructions; and these guide the more oily and butyrous parts into the entrails, whereby the body is preserved soluble. This multiplicity of parts produceth several effects in the persons using Chocolate, according as they are healthy, or sick, of a weak or strong stomach, troubled with Obstructions, or free from them. And much depends on the individual constitution of persons: as also on the Artificial mixture of it into Chocolata, whereby the several parts are actuated, and vigorated, the butyrous parts set at liberty from the confinement they were under by reason of the styptick▪ Particles; which more appear to sense in the nut, then in the mass: for the former dissolve not on the tongue, (no, not when chewed) as doth the latter: nor hath the latter that sensible astringency, and bitterness (joyned with its unctuousness, and aptitude to melt on the tongue) as the former.

Hernandez (who was principal Physician in the Kingdom of Mexico, and was appointed by Philip II. to wri • e Medicinal and Natural Observations in that Province) is at a great loss, what • ature and Temperament to ascribe to this Nut. It is (saith he Hernan Herb. Mexic. l 3. c. 46 and Io. de Laet Hist. Ind. occid. l. 6. c. 2. saith of it out of Fr. Ximenes, Cacao fructus teneri sunt nutrimenti, saporis inter dulcem & amarum medii, temperie nonnihil frigidâ & humidâ. ) made up of different Particles, but very well embodyed, and mix'd; it is something bitter, something sweet; and either of a temperate Nature, or a little inclined to coldness, and moisture.

Others are of opinion, that this Cacao nut is of a temperament inclining to heat, and moisture: and they consider not the nut, as it is entire, or under no greater comminution, then what the teeth infer: but as it is grinded into a paste, and (sometimes as) mixed with water, and agitated into forth by a Molinet. And their reasons are; first▪ because in the grinding it into paste, and in the working it up, and in the dissolving it in Water again, still there are no visible signes of any thing (if it be well done, and the nuts good) but of parts moderately hot, moist, and unctuous, or butyrous; there being little or no terrestrial, and heavy, gross setling whilest it is hot, and when it is milled, it goes all almost into froth, and fat, which proceeds (say they) from an airy, hot, and moist substance, mixing with winde. Another Argument they bring for their opinion from the quick nourishment it gives; For, (say they, and Galen too) that it could not so soon turn into nourishment of the Blood, and Spirits, if it had not a proportionateness, and agreement of temper therewith: for there would be some time requisite to assimilate and change what ha •• a discrepancy with our Nature, before it • ould nourish us. But that, which is analogous to our nature, is Balsamically hot, and moist: not cold, and dry; which are enemies to it.

Gul. Piso resolves the controversies of the Cacao nut thus,

Veniamus ad Cacacii Q • alitates intrinsecas. Has equidem ex effectibus, caeterísque indiciis, constat esse temperatas. Substantia ei ex crassioribus simul & tenuioribus partibus composita est prorsus: ùt in infinitis aliis vegetabilibus observatum est, diversas omnino sub eadem forma Substantias co • tineri. Noster autem Cacacius in pulverem redigitur primùm, & solâ mox, etsi frequenti tusione pinsitur, & in massam cogitur. Quod cùm fiat sine ullius rei admistione, ratio arguit aliquid esse in eo tenacis & bituminosi instar humoris, Aeris Elemento respondens. Multa insuper eidem, quibuscum suâpte naturâ miscetur, insunt ignea, quae necessariò incidere atque reserare debent corporis meatus, non verò praecludere, ùt quidam voluerunt: nisi hoc intelligant de crudo, vel tosto, vel Saccharo condito, quo mulieres in Indiis nimium vesci amant, unde uteri, alvi, & Hypochondriorum obstructiones incurrunt difficillimas. Verùm totum hoc oritur, quòd interior ejus substantia dentium incisione non exactè comminuitur, nec perfectè commiscetur: requiritur enim artificiosa molae ve • satilis contritio; atque tunc demùm siquid noxiae supersit frigiditatis, aliorum calidorum commixtione temperatur, communicatâ singulis partibus • âc intimae jus substantiae qualitate.

It is manifest by is effects, and other signes, that, as to its intrinseck Qualities, it is of a temperate Nature. Its substance is made up of some subtle, and some gross parts; which sort of mixture is observable in many other products of Nature. This Cacao nut is first beaten to powder, then without any accessional [but a gentle heat on a stone, or iron-table, or mortar] it is worked laboriously into a mass, or paste. Which, since it is done without the addition of any other thing, it is an evident Argument, that there is in it a tenacious and bituminous Substance. The mixture of other Spicery corrects its coldness; they penetrate, and open Obstructions: so that Chocolata is no way obstructing; however others, by eating raw, or rosted Nuts, or crushed into confects with Sugar, (much used by the Indian women) may fall into tedious obstructions of the Spleen, Liver, Hypochondria, and Womb. For ☜ these inconveniencies happen, because it is not exactly grinded, and that the performances of the Teeth and Stomach equal not those of the rowler in grinding, and the molinet in actuating the Particles of the Cacao nut.

I shall reserve the particular decision of the controversie, untill I have made a greater inquiry into the nature of the Nut, and its several parts, and • ave examined my self its several effects in Iamaica, at more leisure: but suggest these present Considerations.

If the Nut be a right good Nut of Nicaragua (or Caracas) and Soconusco (the Nuts of the Islands are not reputed equal to those of the main: I have eaten and used as good Nuts of the growth of Iamaica, as any, I have yet met with. and in Iamaica they have but newly learned to cure them; in which there is much art) and so old, as to be at its perfection, not decay'd and of a darkish red, approaching to black, after it is pilled, it is to Taste, adstringent, and a little bitterish; but not very unpleasant to any, who shall have eaten but a few of them. It will be dry, and hard to taste, and not dissolve into an unctuous liquour in the mouth: though you may easily perceive in a rich nut to the Taste an extraordinary butyrousness, though congeled, and fixed by some particular Principle else. I never could observe any coldness in the nut at all neither, on the tongue, nor stomach; nor yet any sense of heat. If the sensible bitterishness must argue heat, the effects of which are not further perceived, because the unctuous parts implicate and dull the vigour of the other; and if that the sensible unctuousness in the most dry nuts, maugre the stypticity, evinces their moisture: yet will any, who eats the nut, be apt to excuse them, who by their taste judge the nut (ungrinded) to be cold and dry in the first and second Degre •

I have already shewed, that our Experience in England in my self, and others, (some being well, some being sickly) doth not evidence the Nut eaten of it self (not reduced to a Paste on a stone) to be obstructing, or clogging to the Stomach: and, whereas it is attributed to the grinding, and so commixing the parts, that it keeps the body soluble, our Experience shews, that even the N • t eaten produceth the like effect; though by the taste one would conjecture otherwise.

Whereas it is said by some, that the Nut in Paste dissolved into water is of an hot as well as moist nature: I must propose some doubts thereto, since it is so good in fevers, and to quench thirst at other times; and is so repugnant to cold Stomachs (a general calamity in hot Climates) that the Indians and English generally are inforced to mix with it either long Pepper, or Iamaica-Pepper, or red Pepper call'd Chilli, to make it supportable to their Stomachs: and Men▪ otherwise of unquestionable strength, and health, have assured me upon their own experience, that this is true. Besides, it is a known Experiment both in Spain, and the Indies, that the butyrous and oily part of the Cacao nut, being taken of, and preserved from the Chocolata, or otherwise drawn, is a very great remedy against Inflammations, and particularly the Erisipelas, or fire of St. Anthony. And in such applications it is sensibly cooling.

In fine, let men debate eternally the temperament of the Nut, they, who have ascribed to it Qualities altogether repugnant to nutriment, have never controverted its incredible nutritive faculty. It is in this that all agree. It is multi alimenti, yields plentious nourishment, saith Hernandez; who holds it to be temperate, or inclining to cold and moisture. Io. de Laet saith of it, refrigerat, & nutrit insigniter, it cools, and nourishes exceedingly. Dr. Iuanes de Cardenas professeth, that it yields buen sustento al cuerpo, good nourishment for the body. And Roblez, who concurs in opinion with the other, that it is cold, and dry, declares it to be summamente alimentoso, exceeding nutritive. And Benzonus gives it this Character, Ea Caelia sapore aliquantùm amaro satiat, & refrigerat corpus minimè tamen, inebriat: That muddy Drink, or Ale, with its bitterish taste satisfies, and cools the body, not intoxicating any way the Head. And it is observable, that albeit the eating of Cullises, and Iellies continually, doth so debilitate the Stomach, that, thorough much use of the former, men become incapable to digest any grosser meats: of the verity of which practical Observation there is a notable instance in Sanctorius De vit and • error. of a Student at Padua, who, that he might have more time to study, and not be diverted therefrom by any re •• rd of Diet, fed himself only with Iellies, and C • llises, wherewith he expected not only to be strengthened much, but also freed from the concerns of exercise, and other circumstances necessary for digesting stronger meats; but he afterwards falling sick, and being inured to no other food, then that appertained to sick-folks, whilst he was well; being sick could receive no no sustenance at all, and so dyed lamentably for want of food, more then by the violence of his disease: I say, it is not so with the plain Chocolata, made of the pure Cacao-Paste, and perhaps a little Sugar, and Pepper; for the Indians, English, and Spaniards, who have lived on it several days, sometimes weeks, without any other food, do without any inconvenience resume a more gross Diet, and again intermit it at their pleasure.

I have been thus particular in the inquiry into the nature of the Cacao nut, because it is the principal Ingredient in Chocolata: and it is this Nut alone in the Composition, (if there be neither Maiz, nor Bean-meal in it, which may be admitted in small quantities as wholesome, for ought I can imagine; or Pistachia nuts, or Almonds; of the healthfulness of either of which, but especially the latter, I doubt as to this Composition) which yieldeth the nourishment, and fatness, which is expected from the Drink, and often found. All the other are but Spicery (under which I comprise Amber-griese, and Musk) and serve at best but as a Vehicle to distribute the Cacao nut into the body, and to make it agreable to the stomach, which otherwise might, and often is troubled with the coldness of the Cacao, o • what other Quality it may have (perhaps too much relaxing the stomach, or offending its o • ifice by its unctuousness) wher • by to offend the stomach.

And since the Indians did first correct it with Chiles, or red Pepper, I shall speak of that in the first place.

Chiles, Chilli, or red Pepper, in the language of Acosta Hist. Ind. l. 4. c. 20. Cusco is called Vchu; in that of Mexico, Chili: or Piso hist. Nat. & Med. l. 6. c. 15. ex Ximene. Chilli by the old Inhabitants of Hispaniola (call'd Haitini by Hernandez. l. 5. c. 3. Hernandez) it is called Hernandez. l. 5. c. 3. Agies (by Roblez, los Agies) which some Acosta l. 4. c. 20. Piso ex Ximene l. 6. c. 51. otherwise write (according to the variety of spelling) Axi. By Monardes it is called La pimienta de las Indias. In Portugal it is call'd pimienta de Brasil. In Brasil, and by Piso, Quiya. In fine, amongst almost an infinity of names, the most usual now are long red Pepper, and American or Brasile Pepper, for no other reason, but that the Portughese brought it first thence. Acosta ubi suprá. It was much esteemed of in old time amongst the Indians, which they carryed into places, where it grew not, as a Merchandise of consequence. Piso ubi suprá. And in all the inhabited places of America it is so frequently used, that there is scarce any meat dressed without it.Mr. Sig • n's Descript. of Barbadas p. 79. This Spice the Spaniards love, and will have it in all their meat, that they in • end to have picant: for a greater Hough-goo is not in the World; Garlick is faint and cool to it. It is so violently strong, as, when one breaks but the skin, it sends out such a vapour into the Lungs, as he falls to coughing, which lasts of quarter of an hour after the fruit is removed: but, as long as it is grabling, they never give over. To describe its several kinds, and particularize its virtues, it would be requisite to transcribe the Treatise of Father Gregory the Capuchine upon this Subject, which is to be found in Carolus Clu • ius's Curae posteriores, Piso, and Hernandez. However that the Spice merits great commendation, and thatChap. 54. Monardes, and Histor. Nat. Ind. l. 7. c. 7. Oviedo prefer it before the East • Indy Pepper: and that many Acosta ubi suprá. repute it to be cold, and well-tempered: (as do Bontas c. 5. De cons. valet. in Ind. others that of the East-Indies) yet it is by such, as regard the testimony of what they taste, and feel, (before traditional Discourses) to be Acosta ubi suprá. hot in the highest Degree. Q • artum haec caloris gradum attingunt, & tertium ferè siccitatis, so saithUbi suprá. Hernandez. And Monardes avows them to be hot, and dry, as it were in the fourth Degree. Es caliente, y seca, ca • i en quarto grado. There is this caution given of them,See Acosta, Hernandez, Piso, ubi suprá. that they inflame the Blood, and distemper the Eyes, the Liver, and the Reins; that they create Fevers, Pleurisies, and Peripneumonies; that they are no way agreeable for young folks, but for the old Flegmatique▪ Which Assertion is to be understood of its unproportionate mixture with other Compositions.

Another Ingredient in the composition of Chocolata is that most delicate of Spices, call'd usually in England Pepper of Iamaica, by the Spaniards Pepper of Xamaica (so Herrera, and other Spaniards call Iamaica) Pepper of Tabasco or Tamasco, and Pepper of Chiapa: and by the Indians X • coxochitl. It is commonly called in Iamaica, Pimienta: which name they took from the Spaniards, some of which I find to call it gravos de pimienta, and pimienta alone: though otherwise that name is of a greater comprehension. This Spice hath a most delicate smell, and such, as resembles an Orange stuck with Cloves: being swallowed whole, it amends the breath, is excellent against Wind, and helps digestion, and yields no sign of an immoderate heat; but being broken, within the outward husk, or shell, there are two (sometimes three) little grains, which make the impression of a pretty violent heat, yet short of the other Peppers: I have not met with any Writer, who utters a word to their prejudice; a few of them, burnt with wine, recommend it for fragrancy, and taste, beyond any Spice. Ferdinandez l. 1. sect. 1. c. 14. Vide & Herbar. Mexican. l. 2. c. 5. de Xoc • -Xochitl seu pipere Tabasc. Es la Pimienta de suave olor, caliente, y s • ca en grado tercero, cordial, desoppilativa, provoca mezes, y es remedio à los dolores flatuoses, corrobora el estomago, y ajuda • a digestion de la comida. The pimienta (of Iamaica) is sweet-sented, hot and dry in the third Degree, opening Obstructions, Cordial, provoking the Terms, and it is good against Wind, and flatulent pains, it strengthens the Stomach, and Digestion, being eaten.

Roblez gives it this Character, E hecho experientia desta semilla, o granos de Pimienta, y hallo en ella el calor, y sequedad iguales, y ser a proposito para confortar el estomago, interiormente bebida, o exteriormente aplicada. Sufre cossimiento medianamente, y trituracion mediocre, y subtil, como les de mas aromaticos, y le tengo por substituto de los clavos de especies: mata las lombrices con la parte amarga, y detiene los vomitos. That is:

I have tryed these Seeds, or Grains of Pepper, and I found therein an equal siccity, and heat: and they serve for to strengthen the Stomach, being taken inwardly, or applyed outwardly. It will endure an indifferent boiling, or punning to powder, as do other Spices, [which loose their virtue by much beating, or boiling] and I allow it for a substitute for Cloves. It kills the Worms with its bitterishness, and stays vomiting.

Io. de Laet, in his Description of America, speaks thus of the Province of Tabasco, Lib. 5. cap. 3. and its Pepper. Vnam habet [ea provincia] inprimis arborem domesticam, quantivis pretii, quam vocant Xocox • chitl, quae est arbor grandis▪ foliis mali Aurantiae, fragrantissimis, Floribus rubris instar Granati, odore item Aurantiorum, grato juxtà, ac suavi; fructibus rotundis, ac racematim pendulis, qui initio quidem sunt virides, posteà ruffi, & ad extremum nigri; acris saporis, & mordacis; boníque odoris; calidi & sicci in tertio gradu, ità ut Piperi substitui, & pro Carpo-balsomo in Officinis possit obtrudi. Hispani vulgò vocant Piper Tabascense. Corroborat cor, & ventriculum; amicum est utero; discutit flatus; aperit obstructa; movet urinam, & menses; succurrit colicis & nephriticis doloribus; consumit humores crassos & viscosos; fugat rigores febrium. i. e. The Province of ☞Tabasco hath one tree particular to it [when Ximenes writ this, whom Laet follows; it was not known to grow in Jamaica, as it doth plentifully] which is call'd Xocoxochitl, i. e. a tree not to be valued. It is of a very large growth, hath leaves like an Orange • tree, being of a most fragrant scent; it bears a red Flower like to that of a Pomegranate, of a sweet and pleasing smell, and which also resembles th • t of Oranges. The Fruit is round, and grows in clusters, like as Grapes do, [so does the Amomum of Dioscorides] at first it is green, then red, and at last blackish: it is of an excellent smell, and biting taste. It is bot and dry in the third Degree, so as that it may be substituted instead of ordinary Pepper [but it is s • farr short of it in heat, and bitingness of taste, that in Pies there is no comparison betwixt them; as I have seen,] and in the Shops it may pass [but without any resemblance] for Carpo-balsamus. The Spaniards usually call it Pepper of Tabasco. It strengthens the Heart, and Stomach; it comforts the Womb, it dispells Winde; it opens Obstructions; it provokes Urine, and the Terms in women; it helps Colique and Nephritique pains; it consumes tough and viscid H • mours; and d • ives away the cold fits of Agues.

I cannot pass by this delicate Spice, without putting the World in mind, that perhaps upon Observation there where it grows, and a little constraining of Dioscorides, It may be found to be the very Amomum of the Antients; so famed in all their rich Unguents for Luxury, and so commended for Medicinal uses, instead of which we are fain to put into Mithridate, and Treacle, either Cubebs, or Cloves, but, I hope, henceforward Amomum and Carp • -balsamus shall find no other substitute then this Pepper of Iamaica. I am not the only person who propose this: Hernandez (lib. 2 cap. 5.) professeth, it may be used instead o • the Carpo-balsamus; and who shall enquire into the Amomum Clusii, will find how others, as well as I, have • omented this Opinion: of which I shall treat more hereafter, when I have observed its growth. In the mean while it seems to be that Garyophyllon of Pliny (lib. 2. cap. 7.) where, having spoken of Pepper, he adds, Et etiamnum in India Piperis granis simile, quod vocatur Garyophyllon, grandius fragiliúsque. Tradunt in Indico loco id gigni. Advehitur odoris gratiâ. There is at this day in the Indies something, that resembles Pepper, men call it Garyophyllon; it is bigger and more brittle then Pepper. They report it to grow in a place of the Indies: and it is brought hither (sc. to Roms) out of a regard to the delicacy of its scent. There is not any thing in Pli • y, which carries repugnancy to our Pepper: its excellent smell, the name of Garyophyllon, being the Greek, not Indian name, and signifying Cloves, or Clove-gillow-flowers, with the smell whereof, (and taste • f the former, but mildly) it hath a resemblance. It is more big, it is more brittle, and consequently, till a clearer discovery be made, we are to presume, that we have retrived after so many hundreds of years one of the most select Odours, that Antiqui • y ever boasted of.

I shall not add any more, untill I have prepared a second Edition in Iamaica. Instead of this, there is usually put in common Black-Pepper, or White-Pepper: concerning the virtues of which I shall not enlarge. They are well known already, and better known then approved of either by theVide Pison▪ in Mantiss. Ar • mat. c. 9. Natives of those Countries where they grow; or our learned Physicians in Europe.

The next Ingredient of Chocolata is Tlilxochi • l (or, as some write it, Tlixochil) or, as the Spaniards call it, banillas olorosas, or Vaynillas. The former is the Indian name recorded in Hernand • z H • rb. Mexic. l. 2. • . 15. Hernandez; the latter is the usual Spanish Term acknowledged by P • so in Ma • ti • s. Aromat. c. 18. Piso, and others. The Plant is compared to Aromatical Arach, it runs up Trees, as doth Ivy, it hath a broad leaf, in length eleven inches, and in breadth six, it resembl • s a Plantain-leaf, but is more fatty, it is of a deep green; it bears a blackish Flower: it produceth a Cod, that is about six inches long, slender, and of a blackish colour (yet are some, that I have seen, reddish, and yet good) their smell is admirable, they, which have parallel'd it with Amber-grise, Musk, or Her • andez, & Piso, ubi suprá. Balsame, failed in their Character; for it ha • h a peculiar mildness, and delicacy in it, not to be found in those other. If, in the Iamaica Pepper we have found out what the Antients lost, it is herein that we have out-done them: it being a discovery, which, I doubt not, but a little Art will improve beyound all the odours yet known.The Spaniards put it into their p • armicae, or Sneezing-powders, avowing it to corroborate the Br • in infinitely: as I am ascertained by such, as have seen this practise in Spain, and the Indies. It is reputed hot in the third Degree, and adds to Chocolata not only a curious scent, but taste: and moderately provokes Urine, and the monethly evacuations in women; it strengthens the Brain, comforts the Wombe, dissipates Winde, concocts and attenuates gross and crude Humours. I cannot do this excellent product of Iamaica the injustice, not to tender the double Character given of it in Spanish, by two Spaniards, that lived in the Indies, and whose Learning equalled their Curiosity.

Doctor Fernandez (lib. 1. Sect. 1. titulo De los Bainillos) speaks thus of them: Son calientes, y secas en tercero grado, cordiales, provocatuias de meses, y de orina, aceleran el parto, el echar las pares, cuessen y adelgason lo crudo, y fortelesan el corason, y cerebro, y ses facultades. They are hot and dry in the third Degree, Cordial, provoke the Terms, and Urine, and speedy Labour, and freeing for the after-birth, they concoct and attenuate Crudities, they strengthen the Heart, and Brain, and its faculties.

Doctor Iuanes de Cardenas gives us this account of them. Las Bainillas compiten con el Ambar. Son de complexion caliente, y seca en primero grado, con que don al Chocolate mui suave olor: y se accentajan à las de mas en ser mui cordiales amigas del corason: engendron espiritos de fuerte, y robusta mixtion, ajudan al cossimiento del estomago, y con su calor cuessen los humores gruessos, y crudos; y lo que es mas que todo, con las partes sutiles, y calientes, consumen lo • terrestre del Chocolate; con que le dexan mas puro, y sin los dannos do lo Melancholico. T • at is:

The Vaynillas equal Amber-grise. They are of Quality hot and dry in the first degree, wherewith they give to the Chocolata an exceeding sweet smell: and excell other Simples, being extraordinary strengthning for the Heart: they beget strong Spirits, and of a firm mixture; they promote digestion in the Stomach, and by their heat concoct crude and gross Humours, and, which is above all, with their subtle and hot parts they consume the earthy parts of the Chocolata, and so leave it more pure, and free from the inconveniencies, with which it might otherwaies threaten the Melancholy.

To conclude this Discourse of the Vaynillas: It is so called by the Spaniard, because that it resembles the Vagnuila or sheath of a little Sword; it much resembles the Cod of a French-bean in length, and shape; it hath in it a small Seed, which fills it from one end to the other, of a blackish colour, but very subtle parts, and scent. It is observable, that one Spanish Writer makes it to be hot in the third Degree, and dry; another only hot and dry in the first Degree. Such Contradictions are usual in Writers of the Indies, and not much to be regarded further, then as the resueries of men too Methodical, or as the intrigues of Nature to be paralleled in Opium, Camphire, Vitriol, Quick-silver, &c▪ concerning which our most inquisitive and Philosophical Physicians are so perplexed, and differing in Opinions, that we may pardon the discrepancy of the Writers alledged here. Whosoever shall try these Vaynillas by the strength and penetratingness of their smell, and perhaps by the vig • ur of their effects, performing what nothing of European, or East-Indy growth, of a less Degree in heat, and dryness, then the third, doth; will rank them with those of that sort; but here who shall consult his Senses, and observe the mild delicacy in these American Products, and particularly in the Vaynillas, which is inconsistent with so much heat, and dryness; and shall consider, that his tongue feels nothing parallel to what happens upon the tasting of a grain of Chili, or red Pepper (which yet is placed as hot in the third Degree) he will by many degrees separate and distinguish the former from the latter. And indeed these powerful effects are not the consequents of an excess of Heat, but of parts moderately hot, and well subtiliated, and digested, in a Country, whose Climate yields☞ an uninterrupted temperature of Heat to its production: from whence we may once for all observe, that it is impossible to provide any succedanea, or substitutes for these kind of Commodities: for to use Cloves insteed of Vainillas is a ridiculous mockage, and hurtful to several complexions, in Chocolota.

Chacanguarica, Pumagua, or Achiotl (as it is called by Hernandez. Herb. Mexic. l. 3. c. 41. Hernandez) or Achiote, as it is usually called (Mr. Gage calls it Achiotte) is called by Oviedo, and Clusius, Bixa; by the Natives of Brasile Piso in Mar. c. 18. Vrucu, and Roucou in the Description of the Antilles. It is a Tree, that grows every where in the West-Indies, without cultivation; • t is regarded as well for its use in Painting, as Physick. It is a Tree of indifferent bigness, leaved somewhat like to an Elm, after it hath flowred (which Flower hath scarce any sensible smell) the fruit grows out in a • od containing thirty or fourty grains, which grains, before they ripen to an hardness, yield a juice of a pure Vermilion colour: out of these grains, either ripe, or unripe, is theWhen I am in Iamaica, I shall inform my self of the different operation of Achiote, according as it is differently made: of which they, who bring it, or sell it, can give no account. Achiote so▪ called made by a way, I shall not repeat; yet in the making of it up there is so great a difference, that it is very considerable, some having been purged to death, & others thrown into Fluxes by mixing Achiote, not rightly prepared; in Chocolata; which hath occasioned some to speak against its being put into it. But it is not by that Character, that the good Achiote must be censured: for, if rightly prepared, it is with very good effect mixed with meats in the Indies to meliorate their taste, and colour, and smell too.

Piso ubi suprá.

Urucu, sive Achiote efficit, nè Chocolate, quantâvis quantitate hausta, noceat: illius quippe ope facilè digeritur sine ulla cruditate. Ità Fr. Ximenes a • pud Burggravium in Hist. Bras. l 2. c. 3.

And in Chocolata it produceth all these effects, if put in a due proportion: and makes it to be drunk more safely, and with lesse nauseousness: it makes it also to purify the Blood more, and to strengthen the inward parts. In Brasile the Achiote grains, being duely prepared into Cakes, are mix'd in an indefinite proportion with a dish of Carima (which is made of Tipioca) and give • against Poysons, or other Distempers, promiscuously. Piso Hist. utr. Ind. l. 4. c. 14. It strengthens the Stomach, stoppeth Fluxes, and, being mixed with agreeable Juleps, allayeth Feverish heats.Piso in Mant. Aromat. c. 18. Fructuum grana rubri frigida sunt & sicca cum modica adstrictione: ex quibus placentulas efformant, quae non solùm medicamentis contra quosvis Sanguinis Fluxus inordina • os, sed & cibariis immiscentur, gratúmque simul saporem & colorem iis suppeditant. Inprimis autem omnia haec beneficia praestant confectioni nostrae Chocolatae, si certâ quantitate addentur; tutiùs enim tunc bibitur, & citra satietatis & nauseae incommodum: adde, quòd sanguinem magis purificet, & viscera corroboret. It is cold, and dry, and moderately adstringent.

Having given you this testimony of it from the learned Piso, who interested not himself much in the digesting Plants into several Degrees according to their first Qualities; but consulted unquestionable Experience: I shall now represent the several Characters of this Achiote, given by Spaniards, and such as lived in the Indies.

The Spanish Doctor Ferdinandez, doth thus Character it in his first Book, Sect. 1. Chap. 14. Estre se hase de la semilla de un arbol cosida. Yes frio en tercero grado, con alguna adstriccion, Mitiga la sed: y, masclado con el agua, templa • lis calenturas ardientes, y cura la dysenteria de humores colericos. Da gusto, y sabor, y ol • r al Chocolate, y le hase mas fresc • : de mas de que ajuda a la digestion, y no solo se mescla para color al Chocolate, si no por que engorda, y annide sustento, con la parte pingue, y butirosa, que es la, que en el praevalese: y siendo assi, • iene partes calientes, como io son todas bas butirosas. It is made of the grains of a Tree boiled. It is cold in the third Degree, with some adstriction. It allaies the Thirst, and being mixed with Water, it tempers the burning-Fever, and cures the Bloody-flux, occasioned by Choler. It gives a taste, relish, and colour to Chocolata, and makes it more brisk; besides it helps digestion: nor is it mixed with the Chocolata for the colour's sake alone, but also because it fattens, and encreaseth its nourishment with its fat and butyrous parts, which prevail in it: and, being so, it must needs have hot parts in it, as have all butyrous things.

With this agrees the Mexican Herbal, lib. 3. cap. 41. Frigida est ordine tertio, & nonnullam siccitatem adstrictionémque participat▪— Extinguit, epotum, aut admotum, • ebrientium incendia, opitulatur Dysenteriis, repellítque tumores praeter naturam; quo fit, ut Epithematis, frigorificis Potionibus, seu Iulapiis, & quibusvis infrigidantibus cibariis, & Medicamentis, misceri perquàm commodè possit. Additur semen Chocoatl, (id est, Chocolatae) refrigerii gratiâ, commendandíque saporis, atque coloris. Dentium doloris è calida causa ort • s lenit, corroborat, evocat urinam, sitim extinguit, accroci apud aliquas gentes gerit vicem. —Adstringit nonnihil, ideóque, cum resina permixtum, medetur scabiei, atque ulceribus, ventriculum corroborat, fluxum alvi cohibet, lac auget permixtum crustis Cacaoatl (id est, Chocolatae) quem reddit innoxium quâcunque mensurâ bibatur: ejus siquidem gratiâ, facilè, ac citra satietatis incommodum solet concoqui. (i. e) It is cold in the third Degree, and participates of some adstriction, as well as dryness.—Being given inwardly, or outwardly applied, it allays Feverish distempers, it helpeth the Bloody-flux, and repels praeternatural Tumours; for this cause it may be mixed in cooling Epithemes, Julips, or any food, or Physick, used to cool. It is mixed with Chocolata to cool, as well as to embitter the taste, and colour. It helpeth the Tooth-ach ari • ing from hot causes, it strengthens the Gums, it provokes Urine, it quencheth Thirst, and with some Nat • ons it isSee Pison. Histor. Ind. utr. l. 4. c. 14. used instead of Saffron.—It is somewhat adstringent, and therefore, being mix'd with Rosin, it cureth the Itch, and Ulcers; it strengthens the Stomach, stoppeth the Fluxes of the belly; it encreaseth Milk, being mix'd in Chocolata; which last drink it renders very innocent, in how great quantity soever it be drunk: for, by reason of the mixture of Achiote, it is drunk down easily, and without any ensuing nauseousness of the Stomach.

Io. Lib. 5. c. 3. de Laet in his Description of the We • t-Indies reports thus of Achiote. E semine [sc. Achiotl] fit tinctura coccinea, quâ Pictores utuntur: eadem & in Medicina usurpatur, quum frigida sit qualitate. Cum aqua aliqua ejusdem qualitatis hausta, aut foris applicata, mitigat aestus febriles, sistitque Dysenteriam, denique utiliter adjungitur omnibus Potionibus refriger antibus, unde etiam vulgò miscetur potioni Cacao ad refrigerandum, & bonum saporem & colorem illi conciliandum. i. e. Out of the seeds [of Achiotl] there is made a Scarlet tincture, which is used by Painters. The same is also used in Physick, being of a cold Quality. Being mix'd with a proper Vehicle, and either given inwardly, or outwardly applyed, it allayeth Feverish heats, and stops the Bloody-Flux. In fine, it is with much benefit put into cooling Drinks; wherefore it is commonly mix'd with the Cacao, to make it cooling, as well as to amend the taste, and colour.

I have shewed the Opinion of such, as favour its being cold even in the third Degree: and therein only it is matter of Opinion; for as to the Effects attributed thereto, I believe them to be of unquestionable authority, being grounded upon the practise of the Indies, and not established upon Conjectures. I now come to propose the Opinion of that diligent observer Roblez, who irreconcileably differs from the rest, as it follows. El Achiote, o Viza, assi le llaman los Indios, le echan en las comidas por a cafran. Es caliente, y enemigo de nuestro calor natural, offende las partes espirituales, estraga el higado, es ventoso sobre manera, por que su calor, y humedad pasa de segundo o tercero grado, lleuanta vapores gruessos, hincha los Hypochondrios: dicen que es a proposito para las passiones de ornia. Todo el Chocolate, que viene de la Nueva-Espanna, y Guatimala, viene cargado desta terrible veza, baptisado con nombre de Achiote; y deven los Medicos a conseiar, no se use deste con ex •• sso, por que tengo por sin duda, que el Achiote es una lima • s • rda, que produce en nos otros malas passiones: y assi desseara tener autoridad para moderarlo, tengole por caliente en grado tercero, y humedo en segundo; y por sas propriedades enemigo de nuestra naturalesa. That is,

Achiote, or Viza, as it is call'd by the Indians, is used by the Natives in their meats instead of Saffron. It is hot, and destructive to our natural heat, it offends the spiritual parts, it weakens the Liver, it is beyond measure flatulent, and windy; because its heat and moisture equals the second or third Degree: it raiseth gross Vapours, it causes a tension in the Hypochondria: they say, it is good to ease Distempers occasioned by stoppage of Urine. All the Chocolata, which comes from New-Spain, and Guatemala, is fill'd with this horrible Ingredient, Christen'd with the name of Achiote, and Physicians ought to give advice, lest people use it in too great a quantity, and with excess: because I am undoubtedly assured that it insensibly consumesus [the Spanish is not to be expressed, I think, more fittingly] and creates in us many other evil Distempers: and therefore it ought to be restrained by publick Authority. I suppose it to be hot in the third Degree, and moist in the second: for its Quality it is repugnant to our nature.

It may seem very strange how so learned and experienced and observing a man could run into an Opinion so contrary to the other of Hernandez, both living in the Indies, one in Mexico, and the former in Peru. If we regard ourYet it hath so violent a pi • rcing on the tongue, that the impression cea • eth not of a long time after. taste, it seems to plead for Hernandez: as being evidently cooling (though not to that Degree) and somewhat adstringent; though the coldness and adstringency sensibly differ, according as it is better or worse prepared: I mean according to the taste, for I have yet experimented it no further. If we consider its Effects, such as have been related, they seem still to oppose Roblez, and assert its cooling, and adstringency. As to that enmity, which he maketh it to have with humane Nature, the universal experience of the Indies (and of all, that use it; supposing the Achiote rightly prepared) particularly of Brasile, New-Spain, and Guatimala, in the latter of which Chocolata hath been immemorially drunk, and in both which places it is the general and famed Drink, doth refute him. Nor is every thing, that is hot and moist in the third Degree, to be exterminated Physick, as destructive to our nature. What Apology then can we make for so learned and observing a man? The principal excuse▪ that I can make for him, is, first, that he relies uponOne sayes of him in this case, Falsâ Indorum traditione errat, non exacto veritatis examine. the Authority of the Indians, who it seems are as peremptory, that Achiote is hot, as that Chilli, or red Pepper is cold. Secondly he observed, what is also granted by Ferdinandez; That, however it had cooling and adstringent effects, it had also an operation of a quite different nature: for per las partes aereas, y delgadas tambien desopila, y provoca mezes, y sudor: by its aereal parts it did open Obstructions, provoke the courses in Women, and cause Sweat. And this operation of Achiote is likewise attested by two eye winesses, Dr. Iuanes de Cardenas, and Dr. Iuanes de Barrios; and is confirmed to us by Mr. Gage's Surv. c. 16. Mr. Gage in these ensuing words. Achiotte hath a piercing attenuating Quality, as appeareth by the common practise of the Physicians in the Indies, experienced daily in the effects of it, who do give it to their Patients, to cut and attenuate gross Humours, which do cause shortness of breath, and stopping of Vrine: and so it is used for any kind of Oppilations, and is given for the stoppings, which are in the breast, or in the region of the belly, or any other part of the body. Now, since these effects are usually performed by Medicines of such a nature,Mr. Gage in another place speaks thus of Achiote. In Nixapa, within the country of Guaxa • a grow many Trees of Cacao, and Achiote: whereof is made the Chocolatte, and is a commodity of much trading in those parts; though our English and the Hollanders make little of it when they take a prize of it at Sea, as not knowing the secret virtue, and quality of it for the good of the Stomach. Gage chap. 3. Which Passage, whether we understand it of compound Chocolata, or of simple Achiote, it amounts to one thing, since it manifests the innocency of it in our Composure. as Roblez attributes to Achiote, it is to be presumed, that he said it upon that ground: but that operatio sequitur esse, that from a parity of Effects one may argue a resemblance of Causes, is an errour in Physick. And in that he saith, it hath an opposition, and qualities destructive to the nature of Man; I suppose, it being granted to have a diuretique and diaphoretique nature, and that it introduceth a fusion (and precipitation oftentimes) in the Blood, it may then be granted to bear an hostility against our bodies, if taken by way of food, what is really Physick; and what Hippocrates saith of Purges, that those in health bear them with difficulty: and that they do depredate, and dissolve, by way of colliquation, the flesh, this is true of diuretique Medicines, if frequently or continually used by persons in perfect health: which as it is the course prescribed to make people lean, so it is in consistent with the intended use of Chocolata, which is to make fat: and this might as well merit his censure there, as the causeless taking of Smallage, and diuretique pottages with us in Spring. He prohibits it con excesso only, in too great a quantity.

This I thought to be fit to say by way of Apology for Roblez; I shall only add, that others do repute this Achiote to be of a very temperate quality: and as no sense evinceth it to be hot; so its de-obstructing faculty, and its diureticalness (it being highly commended not only to dissipate gross Humours, but even the Stone in the kidnies) argue it not to be very cold. However, it is certain, that the Achiote ought to be good, and that it ought to be put 〈◊〉 but in a due quantity: for as the Reasons specified render the excess of it suspicious▪ so do those other, that it meliorates the colour, taste, and smel of the Chocolata; and makes it agreeable to the Stomach; these manifest the necessity of commixing some: and for this we have the Precedents of New-Spain, and Guatemala, and Mexico, and the general consent of such Writers, as have recommended it to the practice of other parts of the World; as you may see in Piso's Discourse of Chocolata.

Mecaxochitl, Mesacuchil, Mechasuchil, or Mecacuce (as Paulus Zacchias calls it in Piso Mantis. Aro • n. c. 18. Piso) in Spanish it is called Manojitos de olor. Id. ubi suprá. It is a peculiar sort of Pepper, growing only in Mexico, and as it resembles long Pepper, so it may be Hernandez Herb. Mexic. lib. 5. cap. 13. reckoned as a sort of it. It is hot in the fourth Degree, and dry in the third; if we may creditUbi suprá. Hernandez, and Piso: but as other Ingredients have been strangely represented by Indian Physicians, as to their qualities, so it is with Mecasuchil, for Franciscus Ferdinandez; (lib. 2. Sect. 1. C. 13.) gives us an Opinion of his very discrepant from the former, viz. that it is only hot in the first Degree, and dry in the second: his words are these; Esta especie Aromatica es caliente en primero, seca en segundo, cordial, util à las ventosedades, y contra veneno, echa la criatura muerta, es provocatuia de meses, y orina, que facilita los malos partos, y abre opilaciones, y es corroborante con moderada adstriccion; que repara el calor nativo, y alimenta el influente con nuevos espiritos, que cria, fo • talece el higado, y es excellente en la templansa y mixtion Aromatica.

This sort of Spicery is hot in the first Degree, and dry in the second; it is Cordial, good against Wind, and Poyson; it brings away the dead child, it provokes Urine, and the Terms; it gives quick delivery in time of an hard labour; it opens Obstructions, and strengthens the body with a moderate adstriction; it repairs the decay of natural heat, and fills the nourishment passing to each part with new spirits, it strengthens the Liver, and is of an excellent temper, and Aromatique mixture.

It is put into Chocolata not only because it gives it a good taste, but because it opens Obstructions, cures Colds, and Distempers arising from cold causes; it attenuates gross Humours, it strengthens the Stomach, and it amends the Breath, and resisteth Poysons, and in this CharacterUbi supr • . Hernandez and e Piso differ little.

Xochinacaztlis, Xochinacatlis, Orichelas or Orejuelas, (in Spanish) and (in Latine) flos auriculae, Hernandez & Piso ubi suprá. is a tree with long and narrow leaves, which bears somewhat large flowers, the leaves whereof are inwardly purple-colour'd, and on the out-side of a grass-green, they somewhat resemble ears, whence they have their Spanish name: they are of a very pleasant smell. These flowers are of great esteem in the Indies; there 〈◊〉 not any thing more valued, nor more common in their Shops. They contribute much to the grace of the Chocolata, and improve it as far beyond its self, as it transcends other Drinks: they give it a rich scent, and taste, and render it very wholesome. It is said by Hernandez Herb. Mexic. lib. 2. cap. 4. Hernandez to be hot in almost the fourth Degree, and dry in almost the third: andUbi suprá. Piso ascribes to it the same temperament, that he doth to Mecasuchil. It is allowed Hernandez, & Piso ubi suprá: with whom agree the Dr. Iuanes de Barrios, & Cardenas. to strengthen the stomach, being troubled with cold, and winde; to revive the Spirits, and beget good blood, and nourishment, and to provoke the monethly evacuations in women. But its temperament is more controverted: for the Doctors Iuanes de Barrios, and Cardenas repute it hot in the first Degree, and dry in the second. I have already declared the Opinion of Hernandez: and Franciscus Ferdinandez (lib. 1.) saith, it is hot in the third Degree, and dry in the second. His words are, Ninguna es de m • jor valor, para esta bebida per Aromatica cordial, y de excellente olor: caliente en tercero grado, seca en segundo, y que conforta el corason, cordial en la vitalidad, cria muchos y robustos espiritos, y mas de los vitales, de fuerte y robusta mixtion, indissolubiles: y es de excellente sabor. There is no Ingredient in Chocolata of greater esteem, by reason of its Aromatical and Cordial virtue, and excellent smell: it is hot in the third, and dry in the second Degree, it strengthens the Heart, and Vital parts, it begets many and strong Spirits, and especially the Vital Spirits of a strong mixture, not dissipable: and it hath an excellent taste.

Besides the fore-mentioned Ingredients, several others are put in partly by the Indians, as Maiz; partly by others, as Anise-seeds, Fennel-seeds, Cinnamom, Saffron, Sugar, Cloves, Mace, Orange and Limon-pill (in a small quantity) Musk, Amber-grise, Orange-flower water, Almonds, Filberts, Pistaches, the Chymical oyls of Cinnamom, Cloves, Nutmeg; and some leave out Achiote, and colour it with Santals: in fine every Chocolata-maker puts in what he doth think good, and cordial, or pleasant, and leaves out what he dislikes insomuch that some reduce Chocolata almost to Ginger-bread; and put in little of the true Cacao-nut. Nor is this variety practised only in England; in Spain, and Portugal there is the like; and an infinite discrepancy in the Ingredients, and proportions In that, which I made, and which pleased His Majesty, the proportion of the Cacao-nut was double to the other Ingredients: in that, which I commonly use, the Cacao-nut is little more then half of the composition, which proportion is allowed by Piso: in the vulgar Chocolata, which is made to eat in Cakes, or Lozenges, there is hardly • third part of the Cacao-nut. of them. I have not time, nor can it justly be expected, that I should give a particular account of the mentioned Ingredients, whose Natu • e may be found in every Herbal almost: I shall only give these general Observations.

CHAP. IV.

General Observations about Chocolata.

1. THat there ought to be a great care in the due choice of the Cacao nut. For there is a great variety in the nature and taste of the Nut: some are bitterer then others, some are more oily and nourishing then others. Thus those of Carraca, or Nicarag • a, were chosen by me to prepare Chocolata for His Majesty, notwithstanding that I had seen some from Iamaica, that were very well tasted, and well cured: for there is not only a great difference in the growth and nature of the Nuts, but in the curing of them; for, if they be not gathered in due tim • , and well sweated after they are gathered, and that upon Mats, not Boards, (for the Mat dries up the sweat better, then the Board, in which whilst they soak, the Phl • gm is re-imbibed by the Nut, and the oily parts not sufficiently exalted, and digested) the Nuts are not so good, as that we should expect any great excellency from the Chocolata.

2. That there ought to be a great care in the Picking, Garbling, and preparing the Nuts. It is not sufficient to choose Nuts of a good age, and growth; old, but not decayed: (for these are most oily) nor to cast away such, as are apparently corrupt: but having dryed them (in the doing of which beware you burn them not; and so imbitter the Composition) you must hull them, and then pick them, casting away all the corrupt and musty ones; for, if you be not carefull herein, the Chocolata will in a little time shew it self to be musty, and decay. I had once some new Chocolata shew'd me, to ask my judgment of: and it seemed to me then very pleasant, and good: within a fortnight after, I tasted it, and it was good for nothing; so musty was it, after it had fermented a while by standing: yet was it carefully kept. It is usual amongst the Chocolata-makers to repute those Nuts good, and sound, which are blackish, and not musty, nor rotten; though upon breaking of the Nut, in the several divisions and parts there be in intercurrent hoariness, which will vanish at their drying: but I suppose all rational Persons will grant, that that is a tendency to corruption; and any curious Observer will distinguish those Nuts from such, as have not the least inchoated decay, by the taste. After all this garbling, they must be well beaten to powder, and finely searced, or else the Paste will not be good: for, although, in the grinding, they will mix, and melt into a Paste, yet will not that Paste consist of so small Particles, as when searced; and consequently not dissolve so well in the Potion, as otherwise it would.

And after it is thus prepar'd, in the grinding of it there is much of Art: I have already excepted against the making it in a Mortar, or on an Iron Table; the only way to moderate the heat, and to preserve it from discolouring (by the iron) or running too fast into oyl, whereby it is made unfit to keep; and also some parts unequally dissolve, the Spices mix not well, and it is precipitated in the making up before a sufficient incorporation, and never ferments right, nor attains its perfect gust.

I have already spoken concerning the way of grinding the Spice, rather then beating it; and that with this caution, that the Spice be not only ground singly over, but after ground all together, that so the several parts of each individual Spice, and Ingredient, may operate upon the subtiliating of the other; besides that hereby each is more exquisitely commix'd, then by any other ☞way can be contrived.

I am of the mind, that if there be any setling at all in the Chocolata Drink, it is either because the Nut is faulty, being ill-cured, unripe, new, or corrupt, and so its parts dissolve not into oyl, but sever themselves, or because it is not well beaten, and searced; or made up too hot, and so hastily dispatched, because some parts dissolve too much, and others not at all: or the Spice is not well beaten, and incorporated; or by reason of some other Mixture: for otherwise there will not be any Setling at all, nor any such terrestrious parts, as some besides the Spaniards do imagine. This is to be understood of the Chocolata being hot: for, if it cool, the pores of the water, being fill'd with a sufficient proportion of Particles, do precipitate the superfluous Corpuscles to the bottom; as do other liquors in the like case. To prevent this discovery, the Chocolata-sellers mix an egg or two or more with it, that so the indissolved, or indissoluble parts may be supported by the grossness of the Liquor. The like is to be seen, when it is prepared with Milk; which is a thicker body, and will bear more and greater parts innatant, then water: yet it is to be noted, that let the best Chocolata be prepared milled, and unmilled, and there will be a great discrepancy in the innatant, supernatant, and subsiding bodies; but in good Chocolata either there is no setling, or remanence in the bottom of the Cup you drink▪ if it be indifferent warm: or, if there be, it is not black, but reddish and oily, and easie to be digested; the contrary whereof is observable in the ordinary, and Spanish, as well as Dutch Chocolata.

Since that the effect of Chocolata, as to its nourishing nature depends upon the Cac • o nut, that Chocolata is best, which hath most of it; all things else corresponding: and that worst, as to the aforesaid end, which hath least of it; though that be endeavour'd to be supplyed by Almonds, Filberts, Pistaches; these last being more stopping, less nourishing, and not dissolving in the Potion proportionably to the other.

Since that the Paste must be well work'd, and that the excellency of Chocolata lies in that the parts of the Cacao nut, being not too much dissolved into an oyl; for then it will not keep; nor endure the heat of your hand, or pocket (especialy in Cakes) but melt; and yet must be kept in a box, or place temperately hot, and free from moisture, or it will mould and decay: or, in that the said parts of the Cacao nut be sufficiently dissolved; for otherwise it will keep neither (in England, without care) nor ferment well, and attain its delicate taste; but yield a setling: Upon this score it seems to follow, that neither the putting in of Orange-flower water, nor Chymical oyls, into it at its making up, is good: for it hi • ders it in the working, to be sufficiently dissolved; or causeth it to dissolve too much: nor could I ever yet see any with those oyls in it, which would keep or carry well (especially in Cakes:) but thsi is not the only reason against them.

For, if to Stomachs, that are in perfect health, and of a good temper, it be prejudicial to give things too hot, and qualified rather to dissipate then continue the vigour of the Spirits; and such are Chymical oyls, and hot Spices in a great proportion: hence we see cold distempers, as the green-sickness, rheums, and the like, to follow upon eating much thereof; asPiso in Mantiss. Arom. c. 9. Piso observes, that eating of Nutmeg, (however much cryed up in distempers of the Memory, and Brain) did introduce, to his knowledge, forgetfulness, dulness, and sleepiness. The like is observed concerning Nutmeg and Mace in Iava by I. Bontius de Med. Ind. lib. 1. cap. 5. De Aromat. Bontius: and Rondeletius somewhere tells us, that in France the Maids drink Ginger to make them look pale: of which I once saw the Experiment in a fair Patient; which recovered upon the discontinuing of what she drunk by advise as Physick for a cold Stomach. But however that I do not approve of the putting in of those East-Indy Spices, As to the Chymical oyls, you have a further exception against them hereafter: be pleased here only to add, that such oyls being dissolved in the Stomach, as they are more dissipable (so as to relinquish the Cacao-nut in the Stomach, whilst they diffuse themselves by the Nerves, or Veins, into the body) and more dissipating being vigorated by the fire, and disengaged from the gross parts, which detained them before in solid Spices; so the use of them frequently or constantly produceth the same infirmities, that do the Spices themselves. yet I do not any way disallow those more delicate and mild ones of America; the defect of which I suppose is not to be supplyed by any Cloves, or Nutmegs, or Black Pepper. And although I do commend our American Spice, yet would I not have excess of them, but a mediocrity; especially of the Chiles, or long red Pepper, which though it be very good for weak Stomachs (which reign generally in the Indies, and hot Countries) yet hath it its faults, which I have already recited: yet of this, that, which is brought as the richest from Spain, (and imitated by several here) is too full; so as that I have felt the impression of it on the glandules of my throat for a long time after I drank of that Chocolata.

Since that it is necessary, that Chocolata be kept at least a moneth, before that it can arrive to its proper Taste; which is a known thing, and I have tryed it: even that, which so pleased him above any, that Spain, or Flanders produced, had not the advantage of time; for a moneth after it had a much more excellent taste then before. It being so, we are to have regard to the particular age of the Chocolata to be used: for, if it be new, it is not come to its Maturity, nor attained that perfection, which is to be gain'd by long Digestion, and Fermentation; it being observed, that several Compounds (which is demonstrable in Treacle, and Mithridate) derive a particular virtue from a long Fermentation, distinct from what the several Ingredients new put together have: nor is this benefit of Fermentation to be denyed to Chocolata (though it can never be bad, if the Ingredients be good, and well ordered, and proportioned) since we experience it in the good Chocolata, that it becomes better; and in the bad, that (however it may taste well at first; if the nuts be corrupt, and musty) it will suddainly grow worse, notwithstandi • g the goodness of the Spicery.

Since Age and Fermentation is so requisite to the improving Chocolata (which is avowed by the most accurate Spanish Physicians: I leave it to the consideration of Men, if the making it up into Cakes, or Loz • nges can be so good; since neither in so small a proportion, • or so small a bulk do Compounds ferment well, nor Spicy preparations keep their vigour.

Besides, if Age and time be requisite to☜ the imbettering Chocolata, how can any Chymical Oyls, or Spirits, be properly put in, since they admit not so long keeping, but evaporate, and so destroy the Composition intended to be enriched by them: they carry away with them the choice parts of the Cacao Nut, and deal by Chocolata, as hot Drinks and Spicery by our bodies, which create Apoplexies, Palsies, and other cold Distempers.

CHAP. V.

Concerning the effects of Chocolata.

TO speak concerning the particular effects of Chocolata may to some seem a superfluous attempt; and to others impossible. The former may ground their Opinion upon what I have said of the Cacao Nut; whose virtues and nature being known, we cannot ignore the nature and effects of the plain simple Chocolata, such as alone hath the commendation of the Indian Experience for so many years: it being made up of nothing but Cacao • Nuts, and Pocholt-grain, (which I suppose to be all one with the Paniso) incorporated; and in time of use it was dissolved in Atolle, (which what it is I have already told) and that this was refrigerating, and very alimentous, is undubitable. The Achiote, Orichelas, and Vaynillas, were not ordinary Ingredients, but occasionally put in, as People's Stomachs could not bear the common Composition, it being too cold, or too Uuctuous (and so relaxing of the Stomach) to Persons of a more then ordinary debility of Stomach: and according as they were more or less weak, so they put in more mild Spices, as the Vaynillas, &c. or the more violent, as Agies, or Guiny-pepper. So that I, having enlarged about the Cacao Nut, may justly seem to decline a repetition of what I have said. And as to more elaborate Compositions, abstracting from the already declared nature of the Cacao Nut, and other Ingredients already related, or hinted, it seems impossible to declare any great thing concerning those, since their Compositions are unknown, and not established by Experience, but the conjectures of Physicians, or ignorant Chocolata-makers, who amass whatsoever is good, or pleasant alone, to be an Ingredient of this Composition. Which course is very vain and foolish, since even Cordials, and hot things (however effectual in swoonings, or distempers of cold and winde) are prejudicial to the healthy, and suit not with all Tempers; no, nor with any as constant Diet, but as Medicinal, which is not the real use of Chocolata. The Indians, as they used it for food, and daily aliment, prepared it as aforesaid: upon occasion of Fevers, and other hot Distempers, they made some little alteration of it, suitable to the disease, and so in Fluxes, and Dysenteries, and imbecillity of Stomach. They put no Sugar in it, nor otherwise enriched it in that they ordinarily fed on; and to this day they have not encreased their way beyond Mr. Gage Chap. 16. Cacao, Achiote, Maiz, and a few Chiles, and a little Anise-seed. Nor did the Spaniards vary much from it, long after they had subdued the Indies. About fifty years ago it began to be used in Spain, being sent over for a delicacy, after that they had enriched it, and given it a pleasant gusto at Mexico. And what is now used, if we look back to An. Colm. de Ledesma's way, is of a newer date: and if it scarce have the credit of being experienced; much less have the several variations created since: which have no other Original, then that a Spanish Physician, finding his Patient used, or enclined to Chocolata, prescribed it to him, or her, with a mixture of these Spices, or other pleasing and rich Ingredients (and Thus Ant. Colmenero says, you may add the seeds of Melons and Pompions of Valencia dryed, and powdered, or Ceterach, Amber-grise, and Musk; others add Trochises of Rhubarb, Madder-roots powdered, and prepared steel, and so give it, as an alterative. sometimes not so) to be taken to open Obstructions, and to strengthen Nature after a general course of Physick premised: and this kind of Chocolata, being successful in the recovery of one Grandee, or eminent Lady, must be propagated to be the entertainment of others, whose indispositions require it not, or whose healthy condition cannot bear it. For it is not to be thought, that Gusman de Alfarache's Hospital of Fools is confined to England; no, in other Countries there are those, that can be as impertinent in their Chocolatas, or other Cordials, as our Ladies, and Gentlewomen are, who obtrude upon their Visitants their Diet-drinks, Herb-pottage, Cordials, and Confections, with the solemn recommendation of, It was used by such and such:—It contains nothing, but what is opening.—It is good for the Spleen, or Liver.—It dissipates wind,—and a thousand such like prefatory Discourses to endear to them their mischief. This is that, which hath occasioned that variety of Chocolata in Spain, so that scarce two houses in Sevil make it alike. And amongst us the case is worse, since that the mixture of Chymical Oyls (unknown in Spain) and several Magisteries, give scope to Chocolata makers, and Ladies to practise with, as well as Physicians.

I thought it my duty to give publick notice hereof, to the end, that Physicians might be acquainted with the reason of the great discrepancy in Chocolata, and that others might be cautioned against the following the particular preparations of several persons, who have sophisticated and spoiled one of the most excellent and healthful drinks in the world. It is true, that Physicians say how in Alteratives there is little mistake in the dose, or quantity: but this respects their being given once, or but for a short time: and so these alterative Chocolatas, being taken but once, or seldom • (if the Ingredients be not violent, nor the body Cacochymical, nor the season sickly) may little endammage the sound; and as little amend the sick. But, if they be often taken, or constantly by way of repaste, it is not to be doubted, but how little error soever be, or can be committed in the dose, a great one will be committed in the continuance, if either the body be healthful, or possessed with a distemper not requiring (or repugning to) the additional Ingredients in the Chocolata. And several have experienced the consequences of this variety of mixtures, and uncertainty of compounding Chocolata: for, having taken Chocolata of Antwerp for Hypochondriacal distempers, by using that of Spain they have instantly been molested with the Haemorrhoids. Some, having been troubled with a virulent Gonorrhaea, and debilitated therewith, have took the plain Cacao-paste with Nutmeg, Mace, Cinnamom, and Sugar, to advantage: but being ind • fferently well, or recovered quite in a manner, by drinking of Chocolata made up with ordinary Pepper, they have relapsed, or incurred a sharpness of Urine, to their great astonishment; they not understanding the difference of Chocolatas. Others, having been troubled with the apprehen •• ons of a Consumption, and Cough; and having found benefit by the simple Chocolata used by some ordinary sellers of it, meeting with a parcel of what hath been esteemed choice, and rich, by using it they have been damnified in their health; their Rheums have been encreased by a colliquation of the humours, the palat of their mouths being brought down by the keenness of the Chiles acting on the glandules about the throat; and, their blood being heated, their sleep hath forsaken them. In fine, the issue hath been altogether contrary to their expepectation, and perhaps the Physician, who recommended it, hath, as well as his Patient, entertained an ill opinion of the Drink, whereas they ought to blame the Chocolata-makers, who inform them not of the variety of Ingredients, wherewith it is made.

I come now to represent the virtues of the compound Chocolata, the praises whereof I would not have understood of the several rich Compositions not authenticated by experience, nor known to the world, nor those Authors I shall alledge: all they say is to be restrained to the plain Chocolata of the Indies made up of the Nut, Maiz, Achiote, a few Anise-seeds, and Chiles; proportioned, and suited to the temper of the Patient, and given in pure water, or Atolle, (and the last more or less plain, as occasion served) or of what was not discrepant from it by the mixture of any vehement Spices of the East-Indies, but the more milde ones of America, as the Vaynillas, Iamaica-pepper, Sugar, and the like; which being within no unsuitable latitude, I shall report their Characters promiscuously.

Franciscus Ferdinandez, principal Physician in the Kingdom of Mexico under Philip II. and appointed by him to enquire diligently, and to write of the Natural and Medicinal Rarities of that Province, saith of Chocolata thus: Es una de las mas saludables, y praeciosas bebidas, de quantas hasta oi estan descubiertas: por que en toda esta bebida no se echa cosa, que sea mala, ni haga danna à la salud, si no todas cordiales, y de mucho provecho, para vi eios ninnos, mugeres praennadas, y gente ociosa: y conviene no beber tras della, ni comer otia cosa, ni hacer exercicio despues de tomarle, si no estar se un rato quieto. Y deve tomarse bien caliente.

It is one of the most wholesome and pretious Drinks, that have been discovered to this day: because in the whole Drink there is not one Ingredient put in, which is either hurtful in it self, or by commixtion; but all are cordial, and very beneficial to our bodies, whether we be old, or young, great with child, or others accustomed to a sedentary life. And we ought not to drink, or eat after the taking Chocolata; no nor to use any exercise after it: but to rest for a while after it without stirring. It must be taken very hot. ☞ This is the Character of Chocolata with Achiote in it: for Ferdinandez did much approve thereof.

Dr. Iuanes de Barrios speaks thus of it: Digo pues, que es menester considerar, que al principio, que esta bebida se comenso à usar, se hacia de menos simples, y cosas, que el dia de oi se hase, por que los Indios antigos de Guatimala no echevan en el lo que oi echa: y no es de maravillar, por que en las comidas, y bebidas, y cosas compuestas, el uso, y el tíempo las perficiona, hasta dar les • el punto de la salud, y de gusto, que oi tiene, y esto passa en los usos, hasta darle su punto.

I say, it is to be considered, that in the beginning, when this Drink of Chocolata came first to be used, it was made of fewer Ingredients, and things, then it is now made with; because the antient Indians of Guatimala did not put into it them, as now: nor is that to be marvelled ar, because in meats, and drinks, and all manner of compositions it is Natural for them not to be begun, and perfected at once: but this must be done by time, and practise; till they arrive at that height of healthfulness, and taste, which they get at length. And, having said this, he adds, Es comoda pues ellae sola suple el almuerso, y algunas otras comidas, por que con ella no es menester, pan, ni carne, nì bebida: y en une mo mento se hase y sacona, lo que no ai en las otras. It is good alone to make up a breakfast, and supply other victuals; because, having it, you need no further meat, bread, or drink: and in a moment it is prepared, which is not to be found in others.

Dr. Iuanes de Cardenas concludes thus of it: Y digo, que usado con esta advertencia, 〈◊〉 de mucho provecho para la salud, y es bastante a alar gar los dias de la vida; por que fuera de que da buen sustento al cuerpo, ajuda agestar el mal humor, vacuandole por sudor hieses, y urina: y digo otra ves, que entierra ninguna es mas necessario, que en las Indias, por que como es humida, y dexativa, andan los cuerpos, y estomagos llenos de flemas, y de superflua humidad, laqual con el calor del Chocolate, se cuesse, y convierte en sangre, lo que no hace el vino: por que realmente antes se azeda, con la flema, y suele ahitar mas.

And I say, whosoever takes it with the cautions, and directions aforesaid, takes it with much benefit, and it conduceth much to the lengthening of his life; and the reason is, because it yields good nourishment to the body, it helps to digest ill humours, voiding the excrements by sweat, and urine: and I say, it is no wh •• e more necessary then in the Indies, which are moist, and apt to create lassitudes, their bodies there being, together with their Stomachs, full of Phlegm, and superfluous moisture, which are concocted by the heat of Chocolata into good Blood; which is an effect beyond what Wine produces: for the Wine doth degenerate into sowreness, and corrupts together with the Phlegm, and multiplies indigestion.

Iohn de Laet, Secretary of the West-Indycompany in Holland, a Man accurate both in the Geography, and natural History of the Indies, represents it thus: Chocolate variis modis componitur pro cujusque appetitu: de qua hoc tantùm dicemus, quòd praeclarè nutriat; verùm si nimis crebrò & immoderatè sumatur, debilitat, & alia praetereà adfert detrimenta.— 〈◊〉 . immodicus usus potionis è Cacao confectae plurimarum infirmitatum & morborum causa est: quia generat Obstructiones, corrumpit colorem, & inducit Cacochymiam, & similes pravos effectus.

Chocolata is made 〈◊〉 ways according to each Man's fan ••• : concerning which we shall only say, that it nourisheth very well; but, if it be used too much, and too often, it begets weaknesses, and other indispositions: s • ▪ the immoderate use of it multiplies Obstructions, spoils the Complexion, and introduces a Cacochymy.

Iaques Amproux in his Natural and Moral History of the A •• lles of America, (ch. 16.) gives us this Intelligence. Le Cacao croist en la province de Guatimala, pres la Neuue-Espagn, qui est aussi un fruit tres-reuommé en toute l' Amerique, pour estre le principal Ingredient, qui entre en la composition de la Chicolate, ou Chocolate, d'ont on fait un bruvage souveraín pour fortifier la poitrine, dissiper toutes les humeurs malignes, qui s'y attachent, chasser la gravelle, y tenir le corps frais, y dispos, pour veu qu'on le prene moderément.

The Cacao grows in the Province of Guatimala, in New-Spain: it is the most renowned Fruit in all America; because it is the principal Ingredient in Chicolate, or Chocolate, which makes a sovereign Beverage to strengthen the Stomach, to dispel all evil Humours, that trouble it, to evacuate the gravel, and to preserve the body fresh, and in full vigour, if it be taken moderately.

Gul Piso quotes this Passage as from the experience of Ant. de Ledesma, whom he recommends as a credible Author. Motus enim iis, inquit Ant. de Ledesma, quae in Indiis fieri solent, cùm illùc pervenissem, aegrotantiúmque domos, aeris calore ferventes percurrerem, aliquando haustum aquae petere solitus, vitales restinguendi faces gratiâ, Indorum suasu Chocolatam fiti compescendae convenientiorem bibi: saepiúsque id factum, leniebatur exinde ardens bibendi desiderium: etiamsi jejunus assumpsissem, Stomachi tamen vires refectas sentiebam. Ex 〈◊〉 potionis continuato usu alii mecum impinguefacti sunt: cùm tamen pleraque Ingredientia, excepto Cacacio, & Maizio, quòd calida & sicca sint ordine tertio, ad extenuationem corporis facere videantur: sed constat ratio; butyrosae enim Cacacii partes pingue reddunt corpus; calidae verò, quae confectionem ingrediuntur, pro vehiculo inserviunt, quo pinguis ista substantia ad jecur deferatur, & indè in caeteras dimanet partes, tandémque ad carneas demùm derivetur. Having a curiosity to see to acquaint my self with the Rarities of the Indies, at my being there, I went to visit my Patients, and being thirsty I used to call for some water to allay my drought, and defect of vital Spirits; at length by the perswasion of the Indians I drank Chocolata, as being more convenient to allay my thirst. And indeed upon the drinking of it I found my vehement desire of drink to leave me; and, if I took Chocolata in a morning, I found it did much corroborate and refresh my Stomach. By the continual use of which drink I, and several with me, became fat; notwithstanding that most of the Ingredients, except Cacae-nuts, and Maiz, be hot and dry in the third Degree, and seem more ready to extenuate. But the reason is, for that the unctuous and butyrous parts of the Cacao-nut do fatten, whileft the other Ingredients serve only as vehicles, to distribute those other to the Liver, and thence to the whole body. This is the account he gives from Anton. de Ledesma: his own Observation in Holland is as follows; Quia maxima pars Ingredientium, excepto Cacacio, in Europam non deferuntur, substitui possunt; & solent vel vulgaria illa Indiae Orientalis Aromata, vel alia aliqua semina, aut flores cuique regioni & individuo convenientia. Quod & fieri saepe in Belgio vidi, & ipse cum voluptate viriúmque refectione hìc confectam gustavi. Porrò non memini aliquem nostratium (modò non ferverent illi Hypochondria) ex quotidiano usu ejus potûs malè habuisse. Multis contrà morbosis medelam attulisse scio, praesertim Hecticis, Catarrhosis, Asthmaticis, quibúsque praecordia languerent. Because that☜ few of the Ingredients of Chocolata, except the Cacao-nut, are brought into Europe, instead of them there are, and may be substituted either those common Spices of the East-Indies, or other Seeds, and Flowers, suitable to the particular condition of each Climate, or individual Person. Which I have often seen done in Holland, and I my self have drunk of it with great pleasure, and refreshment of my Spirits. Nor do I remember, that any of our Countrymen [Hollanders] was ill, or any thing the worse for drinking of Chocolata daily; except he were troubled with Hypochondriacal heats. But, on the other side, I am sure on my own knowledge, that it hath done much good to many, who were very sickly, and in particular to several troubled with Hectick Fevers, Catarrhs, Asthmas, and imbecillity of the Stomach, and Vitals.

Besides the virtues attributed to Chocolata, I desire it may be observed what he tells is done in the compounding of it; how, instead of the true American Ingredients, other succedaneous ones are employed, viz. the Spicery of the East-Indies; betwixt which and those of the West-Indies there is no resemblance, the one being milde, the other violent: and against the use of which (even to the total exterminating them) Gul▪ Piso Hist. utr. Ind. in Mant. Arom. cap. 9. this Author hath writ a Discourse, however that he allow them to be substituted for the other in Chocolata. Nor is the commutation of Spice for Spice onely; even other Flowers and Seeds are substituted, and this he knows to be done in Holland: which being so, how can any recommend the use of Chocolata, not knowing what Ingredients are in it,In Spain, to make it purging, or lenitive, they put in Alexandrian Roses, as Ledesma, and others acknowledg: and what if one should meet with a parcel of such Chocolata, who is already too soluble, or to whom it may be pernicious to be so? They who sell Chocolata understand not any distinction. or knowing that comes from Holland, where other Ingredients then ought to be, are put in for certain; though it be as uncertain what they are, or whereunto effectual? It is further to be observed out of his words, that such Ingredients are to be put in, as suit with each particular Climate, and individual Constitution. Wherefore the same Chocolata is not to be promiscuously used by men in health, of all tempers, nor by men sick of different diseases. Which was observed before by me in this Discourse, and I take notice of it here again occasionally, to shew, that I am not singular in my opinion.

Mr. Gage chap. 16, tells us of it: That where it is so much used, the most, if not all of them, as well in the Indies, as in Spain, Italy, Flanders, (which is a cold Country) finde, that it agreeth well with them. True it is, that it is used more in the Indies, then in the European parts, because there their Stomachs are more apt to faint then here, and a cup of Chocolatte well confectioned comforts and strengthens the Stomach. For my self, I must say, I used it twelve years constantly, drinking one cup in the Morning, another yet before Diner, between nine and ten of the Clock; another within an hour or two after Diner, and another between four and five in the afternoon, and when I was purposed to • it up late to Study, I would take another cup about seven or eight at night, which would keep me waking till midnight. And, if by chance I did neglect any of these accustomed hours, I presently found my Stomach fainty. And with this custome I lived twelve years in those parts healthy, without any Obstructions, or Oppilations, not knowing what either Ague or Fever was. Yet I will not dare to regulate by mine own the Bodies of others, nor take upon m • the skill of a Physician, to appoint, and define, at what time, and by what Persons it may be used. Only I say, I have known some, that have been the worse for it, either for drinking it with too much Sugar, which hath relaxed their Stomachs, or for drinking it too often: for certainly, if it be drunk beyond measure, not only this Chocolatte, but all other Drinks, how innocent soever, may be hurtfull. And if some have found it oppilative, it hath come by the too too much use of it. As when one drinks overmuch Wine, instead of comforting and warming himself, he breeds and nourishes cold Diseases; because Nature cannot overcome it, nor turn so great a quantity into good nourishment. So he, that drinks much Chocolatte, which hath fat parts, cannot make distribution of so great a quantity to all the parts: and that part, which remains in the slender Veins of the Liver, must needs cause Oppilations, ☞and Obstructions. But lastly, to conclude with this Indian drink, I will add what I have heard Physicians of the Indies say of it, and have seen it by experience in others (though never could I find it in my self) that those, that use this Chocolatte much, grow fat, and corpulent by it: which indeed may seem hard to believe; for considering, that all the Ingredients, except the Cacao, do rather extenuate, then make fat, because they are hot in the third Degree. And we have already said, that the Qualities, which do predominate in the Cacao, are cold, and dry, which are very unfit to add any substance to the body. Nevertheless it may be answered, that the many unctuous parts, which have been proved to be in the Cacao, are those, which pinguefie, and make fat: and the hotter Ingredients of this Composition serve for a guide, or Vehicle, to pass to the Liver, and the other parts, untill they come to the fleshy parts: and there finding a like substance, which is hot, and moist, as is the unctuous part, converting it self into the same substance, it doth augment, and pinguefie. Hereupon he recommends it to the English, to be drunk by them: I shall not instance many Testimonies out of him, to evince its general use among the Indians; besides what he sayes in the Chapter already cited, in his Relations of Guatemala, and Chiapa, the mentioneth their use of it, more then once: and speaking of Chiapa (chap. 15.) he hath this following Story, which because it evidenceth the Opinion the Spanish Dames have of Chocolatte, I shall insert at large.

The Women of Chiapa pretend much weakness and squeamishness of Stomach, which they say is so great, that they are not able to continue in the Church, whilst a Mass is briefly hudled over, much less whilst a Solemn high-Mass is sung, and a Sermon preached, unless they drink a cup of hot Chocolatte, and eat a bit of Sweat-meats to strengthen their Stomachs. For this purpose it was much used by them to make their Maids bring them to Church in the middle of Mass, or Sermon, a cup of Chocolatte, which could not be done to all, or most of them, without a great confusion, and interrupting both of Mass, and Sermon. The Bishop, perceiving this abuse, and having given fair warning for the omitting of it, but all without an amendment, thought fit to fix in writing ☞an Excommunication upon the Church-doors against all such, as should presume at the time of Service to eat or drink within the Church. This Excommunication was taken ill by all, but especially the Gentle-women much to heart, who protested, if they might not eat or drink in the Church, they could not continue in it to hear what otherwise they were bound unto. The chief of them knowing what great friendship there was between the Bishop, and the Prior, and my self, came to the Prior, and me, desiring us to use all means we could with the Bishop for revoking that his Excommunication so heavily laid upon them, and threatening their Souls with damning judgment for the violation of it. The good Prior and my self laboured all we could, alledging the custome of the Country, the weakness of the Sex, whom it most concern'd, and also the weakness of their Stomachs, the contempt, that might ensue from them unto his person, and many inconveniencies, which might follow, to the breeding of an uproa • in the Church, and in the City, whereof we had some probable conjecture from what already we had heard from some. But none of these would move the Bishop; to which he answered, that he preferred the honour of God, and of his house, before his own life. The women, seeing him so hard to be intreated, began to stomach him the more, and to sleight him with scornful and reproachful words; others sleighted his Excommunication, drinking in iniquity in the Church, as the Fish doth Water, which caused one day such an uproar in the Cathedral, that many Swords were drawn against the Priests, and Prebends, who attempted to take away from the Maids the cups of Chocolatte, which they brought to their Mistresses: who at last seeing, that neither fair nor foul means would prevail with the Bishop, resolved to forsake the Cathedral, where the Bishop's own, and the Prebends eyes must needs be watching over them; and so from that time most of the City betook themselves to the Cloyster-Churches, where by the Nuns and Friers they were not troubled, nor resisted, though fairly counselled to obey the command of the Bishop; whose name now they could not brook, and to whose Prebends they denyed now all such relief and stipend for Masses, which formerly they had used to bestow upon them, conferring them all upon the Friers, who grew rich by the poor impoverish'd Cathedral. This lasted not long, but the Bishop began to stomach the Friers, and set up another Excommunication, binding all the City to resort unto their own Cathedral Church, which the Women would not obey, but kept their houses for a whole moneth: in which time the Bishop fell dangerously sick, and desired to retire himself to the Cloister of the Dominicans, for the great confidence he had in the Prior, that he would take care of him in his sickness, Physicians were sent for far and near, who all with a joint opinion agreed, that the Bishop was poysoned, and he himself doubted not of it at his death, praying unto God to forgive those, that had been the cause of it, and to accept of that Sacrifice of his life, which he was willing to offer for the zeal of God's house, and honour. He lay not above a week in the Cloister, and as soon as he was dead, all his body, face, and head did swell, that the least touch upon any part of him caused the skin to break, and cast out white matter, which had corrupted, and overflown all his body. A Gentle-woman, with whom I was well acquainted in the City, who was noted to be somewhat too familiar with one of the Bishop's Pages, was commonly censured to have prescribed such a Cup of Chocolatte to be ministred by the Page, which poysoned him, who so rigorously had forbidden Chocolatte to be drunk in the Church. My self heard this Gentle-woman say of the Deceased Bishop, that she thought few grieved for his Death; and that the Women had no reason to grieve for him, and that she judged he being such an Enemy to Chocolatte in the Church, that, which he had drunk at home in his house, had not agreed with his Body. And it became afterwards a Proverb in that Country, Beware of the Chocolatte of Chiapa. Which made me so cautious, that I would not drink afterwards in any house, where I had not very great satisfaction of the whole Family.

A certain Spanish Physician of Sevil, who made it his peculiar inquiry to search into the nature of Chocolata, as he doth on every occasion shew himself extraordinarily learned, and to have consulted all the publick Discourses and private Manuscripts about it, so he manifests a great regard to the Testimony of Experience, which he avows to be so favourable for Chocolata, that there is not one, who doth drink it, and doth not feel himself to be manifestly refreshed, and strengthened, as well as delighted by it: and that, whereas none hath been known to live above seven dayes by drinking☜ Wine alone, one may live moneths, and years, using nothing but Chocolata. In fine, he himself saw a Childe weaned, which could not be brought by any Artifice to take any food, and for four moneths space he was preserved alive by giving him Chocolata only, mixing now and then some crumbs of bread therewith. So powerfull a virtue hath it to nourish, and strengthen. Nor doth he allow it for food alone, and the preservation of Life, but medicinally, as a thing, that is advantageous to health; for he gives this Character to a preparation of Chocolata, which is almost the same with what I made for His Majesty. Antiquam compositionem Chocolatis Indiae & Hispaniae enarrare, hoc tempore nullius fructûs erit; quoniam illud habuit, ut ad ultimam perfectionem •• veniret. (i.e.) It is not worth while to recount the antient wayes of compounding Chocolata; because this proposed is arrived at its heighth, and last degree of perfection. Haec est omnium potionum pretiosior potio: haec in commodis salutis omnes superat, illarum nempe, quae in hodiernam diem aut voluptas invexit, aut decurrentium saeculorum series alternata conspexit; quia nec in ea, dum in actum potionis reducitur, nec aliquo simplicium, ante ejus ingressum, vi • ae defuit necessarium, neque voluptati, quod non valeat illecebrâ appetitum allicere: sunt enim alia alimento gratissima, alia Aromaticâ virtute roborantia, alia cordi auxiliantia, dum Nectar vivificum instaurant, seu spiritus dissipant malignos, aut naturales robustae mixtionis producunt: sunt & omnia vitae longiùs producendae aptissima: quoniam Chocolate ultimâ qualitate, quae resultat ex fermentatione, ùt theriaca, calorem nativum roborat, & promptâ instauratione influentem (ob facilem conversionem) multum & laudabilem sanguinem gignit. Ob substantiae tenuitatem, & fermentationis efficaciam, indissolubiles & robustos spiritus, immortali labori & studiorum collimationi aptissimos, facultates praecipuas, & tempera • enti mixtio • e, & Aromaticâ virtute in vigore conservat: moderato calore dum concoquitur, flatus turgentes dissipat, ac penetratione ap • rienti obstructiones aperit, menses provocat, & inter alia ventrem plerisque lenit; & super omnia cibaria vires praesentaneè & promptissimè reficit, quod res aliae essentiâ potabiles non ità promptè agunt: quo videtur singulari differentiâ ob aliis differre. This is the most pretious Drink of Drinks; this excells all others in advantages for our health, which either Time by a long succession of years, or encrease of Luxury and Pleasure to this day hath acquainted us with: because neither in the Chocolata it self being made into a Drink, no nor inThis is to be understood not of the ordinary Spanish Chocolata, against which my Authour protests; but of what is made up, as I prepared that for His Majesty, which varyed little from his way. any Ingredient thereof, is there any thing wanting, that is necessary for the Life, or delight of Man, and so to invite him to use it. Some things in it are most pleasant nourishment; others strengthen by their Aromatical virtue; others are Cordial, and revive the vital Balsame, or Nectar, either dissipating evil and burthensome Spirits, or producing new ones of a durable nature. In fine, all are transcendently qualified to prolong life; because Chocolata by aTo obtain this then, it must be kept, and fermented; and consequently neither what is made into Cakes, (which will not keep, nor ferment in so small quantities) nor what is made in Power, and mix'd with Spicery, as it is prepared to drink; nor what is made alone into Paste, and kept, and spiced in the time it is to be used; can be approved of, since the latter wants the benefit of fermenting with the Spicery, and the Paste alone grows effaete, and insipid. new quality arising to the Composition through fermentation (as happens in Treacle) strengthens the natural heat in each part, and encreaseth that, which continually inflows, and influenceth it, begetting by a speedy and easie transmutation much and good Blood: by the tenuity of its parts, and efficacious fermentation, it begets strong and indissipable Spirits, and so enables Men vigorously to prosecute their Studies, and tedious exercises of the Brain, it strengthens and preserves in full vigour the principal faculties in men by the exquisiteness of its temperament, and Aromatical power: being digested, with its moderate heat it dispells Winde; and by its penetrancy, and opening quality, it removes Obstructions, provoketh the monethly evacuations in Women, and, amongst other qualities, it generally preserves the bodyThis is to be understood only of such Chocolata, as his was, being rich of the Cacao, and moderately spiced, & that with milde Spices: yet did he put in a good quantity of Cinnamom. soluble: and it doth more speedily and readily refresh and invigorate the bodily strength, then any other sustenance whatever, no other potable liquours [which yet do most quickly nourish] producing so speedy and sensible an effect: whereby it seems to be peculiarly differenced from all other Viands.

CHAP. VI.

How to make use of the Chocolata by preparing it into Drink.

I Think I have sufficiently (at least according to my present leasure, and the unsupplyable want of my own Library, and Collections) manifested the effects of Chocolata: I shall now treat of the way of preparing it into Drink, when any hath occasion to use it. And because that the Composition it self is of the Indian discovery, as I have hitherto still directed my inquiries by searching into their Usages and Opinions concerning the several Ingredients, so I shall now begin with a recital of the several ways they use to prepare it into Drink: and for this I have the most accurate account fromChap. 16. Mr. Gage, (who yet seems to transcribe Ledesma) whom I shall therefore transcribe, with such Animadversions, as may seem pertinent.

The manner of Drinking it is divers. The one (being the way, which is used in Mexico) is to take it hot with Atolle, dissolving a Tablet in hot Water, and then stirring it, and beating it in the Cup, where it is to be drunk, with a Molinet, and, when it is well stirred to a scum, or froth, then to fill the Cup with hot Atolle, and so drink it sup by sup.

This way of preparing it may seem (since it is the way of Mexico) to have been the way, that Motezuma treated Bernaldus del Castillo with, when he caused to be brought forth jarros grandes hechos de buen Cacao, con su espuma, great jarrs made with good Cacao, with its froth. It is not to be questioned, but that the pure Cacao-paste, well dissolved in hot water, and long, and violently agitated with a Molinet, will raise a considerable (but not lasting) Froth, not inferiour to what, with less agitation, is seen where Eggs entire, or Yolks alone, are put in: much more perhaps it may froth, if that Paste had Pochol or Paniso grains mixed with it; or, if being well milled before, it were a second time milled upon the commixture of the Atolle: for the Maiz flower would make it froth much; and it is from the commixture of Maiz, or Bean-flower, (or perhaps some other substitute) that some Chocolata doth now froth more then others; though the difference in the milling likewise produce a variety. I have already explicated what Atolle is, in the beginning, and so shall not repeat it; but onely add, that, from this way of the Indians using it, our Physicians may order it to be drunk with streined Water-gruel, Almond-milk, or cremore ptisanae, or any other mixture they please, that is more, or less nourishing, as they please; ordering the Chocolata according to the aforesaid Method: concerning which Dr. Iuanes de Barrios gives this admonition, Para hombres y mugeres Sanguineos no se tome con Atole, por que aumenta la sangre; sino con aqua, poco anis, Chile, y acucar, y mingunas especies Aromaticas, ni cosas de olor. Y para los Flegmaticos se haga con todos los Ingredientes, que avemos dicho, o con mas especies de lo ordinario, y se tome mui caliente. Y en los Melancholicos, que se haga sin Chile, poco anis, y con coras de buen olor, y que se tome tibio.

For men and women of a Sanguine Complexion, it is not to be taken with A • olle, because it multiplyeth Blood in the body; but with Water, a little Anise-seeds, Chiles, and Sugar, but no Spicery is to be put in, nor sweet scented things, for such persons. But, for the Phlegmatick, let it be made with all the Ingredients used in the Indies, or with a greater quantity of Spices, then is ordinary, and let it be taken very hot. And, for the Melancholy persons, see it be made without Chiles, with a few Anisefeeds, and with Ingredients of a sweet smell, and taking it luke-warm.

Which Caution may not only direct us as to Atolle, which is not to be made, or used in England; but illustrates and confirms an Animadversion of mine formerly laid down: viz. that according to the several tempers and ☞distempers of persons there ought to be framed variety of Chocolata; and that to be given variously, as the discreet Physician shall propose; and this is agreeable (you see) to the procedure of the Indies.

Another way of drinking Chocolatte is, that the Chocolatte, being dissolved with cold water, and stirred with the Molinet, and the scum taken of, and put into another vessel, the remainder be set on the fire, with as much Sugar, as will sweeten it, and when it is warm, then to poure it on the scum, which was taken of before▪ and so drink it.

I understand not the reason of this procedure; unless it be for ornament sake: it looking more pleasantly being thus ordered, then if the water were hot, and milled to a froth with Chocolata, and so drunk. It is certain, yet strange, that the Cacao-paste, being milled well with cold water, will froth as much, and yield as plentiful a scum, or cream upon setling, as it will do if it were milled in hot water: and I have shewed how that cream is fat, and the water also is fatty (though cold) in which it is milled, but it comes not to that red colour, which the other hath, which is prepared hot. This s • eum being taken of, and the rest heated, and put to it (pouring it on high) makes it look more pleasantly on the top, then if it were a bare solution of the Cacao-paste, (which▪ will dissolve in it, so as not to precipitate any setling almost, whilest it is hot) and the Cacao-paste which remains (after the froth is taken of) to be heated dissolves sufficiently in the water by meer heating, without milling.

Besides these ways, there is another way (which is much used in the Island of Santo Domingo) which is to put the Chocolatte into a Pipkin with a little water, and to let it boil well, till it be dissolved, and then to put in sufficient Water, and Sugar, according to the quantity of the Chocolatte, and then to boil it again untill there comes an oily scum on it, and then to drink it.

This way I was at first much pleased with,Since the writing hereof I did try it in some of my own Chocolata, and it was very pleasing, and more rightly fat then any other way; but I observed, that the Spice had a more vehement heat, and taste, then otherwise: which happened either because the boiling added a sharpness to them; or that the compages or body of the Composition was more laxed, then otherwise: for not being mill'd, it did not seem so well commix'd, as otherwise. and upon tryal I found, that it did more perfectly dissolve the Nut then any, and reduced it into a perfect fatty broth, which did not at all offend my Stomach: but notwithstanding that it did not offend mine, yet I fear, that neither the adstringent bitterness of the Cacao-paste (which alone I drunk) nor the aid of Achiote, Sugar, and Spices (which may loose their virtue by boiling, and are not used by the Indians) will render it supportable to tender Stomachs; so exceeding unctuous is the broth, or Drink.

But the most ordinary way is, to warm the water very hot, and then to poure out half the cup-full, that you mean to drink; and to put into it a Tablet, or two, or as much, as will thicken reasonably the water, and then grind it well with a Molinet, and when it is well ground, and risen well to a scum, to fill up the cup with hot water, and so drink it by sups (having sweetened it with Sugar) and to eat it with a little Conserve, or Maplebread, steeped into the Chocolatte.

Of this last way Mr. Gage saith not only, that it is the most used, but that certainly it doth no harm, and he recommends it to the practise of the English: he gives no reason why the Chocolata may not be milled with all, but a part of the hot water; nor do I apprehend any, except that the vessel, in which it is made, may be so little, as that it may not be able to contain the whole liquour to be milled, and prepared: for it must be done in a pretty deep vessel, that it may have room to dash about the sides, without flying out, or running over, as it is mill'd▪ Otherwise I think no man will believe, that there can be so equal and due commixture in the Chocolata-drink, if one half only be mill'd, and the other half of water poured to it; as if the whole were milled together: and consequently, it cannot be so good.

Wherefore the way now used at Sevil seems more rational, whereby it is thus made. The Chocolata-cake in a due proportion (that is, in my Chocolata, one ounce of Paste, two ounces of Sugar, and eight of Water) is dissolved in hot water; it never boiling at the fire after the Chocolata is put in; because (say they) it will by boiling growI am sure, that the simple Cacaopaste sowres not by boiling long, and several times; no not my compound Chocolata: but it is possible, that the Vaynillas, Alexandrian Roses, or some other Ingredient in Spain may upon boiling give the drink a sowrish taste. Or it may subvert the Stomach by becoming too oily, or unctuous, as I observed before. sowrish, or be so depraved as to subvert the Stomach. Then it is well milled, that it may grow frothy, and fatty: then it is powred out into Xicharas, or Cups, and so drunk hot. They give a special Caution, that after it hath been once milled, if it cool again, it is not to be heated and mill'd a second time, and so drunk. Because, they say, it corrupts, and sowres: and herein they avouch their Experience, and desire no reason may be urged against it. This Caution, being given concerning the best Spanish Chocolata, and which most resembleth mine, I could not omit: and I am sure either it is not true, (though we finde a difference in broths, when twice heated) or it must arise from some Ingredient (I suppose the Vaynillas) and not from the Cacao, the simple paste whereof I took and mill'd, and kept it several days, and heated it again; and it was neither sowre, nor offensive to my Stomach: and I kept it three days longer, and then heated it, milled it, and tasted it, and it varyed not its relish, but was inoffensive, and free from sowrishness. I boiled some of mine, and drunk it cold, unmilled, without annoyance: and I know a Lady, that with success boiled it twice. Here in England we are not content with the plain Spanish way of mixing Chocolata with water: but they either use milk alone; or half milk, and half conduit-water; or else thicken the water (if they mix no milk with it) with one or more eggs put in entire, or yolks only into the water, or where milk is mingled with the water. In which way, as it is sold in the Chocolata-houses, there are these inconveniences: if it be done with milk, it is natural for milk, being hot, and standing so, to cast up a Scum; and, if it cool, it creams: so that, if the Chocolata be kept after it is milled, and not immediatly drunk, either upon your second milling it you must cast away the scum (or cream, if it stand cold) or mill it into the D • ink. the former course we •• ens it, by casting away also the flower, 〈◊〉 cream of the Chocolata; and the latter renders it unpleasant. And as to the mixture of eggs, if they be put in with the yolks ▪ and white • , and suffered to stand, the white • will harden, and disgrace the Chocolata • but if only the yolks be put in, and well milled, I have tryed them so, by not only letting the Chocolata stand hot before the fire, but even to boil it again, and mill it, and let it again stand for several hours before the fire, and I have not perceived it to vary the taste, or to embody into any thicker consistence then before it had; only I observed, that it did not yield so much cream, (or scarce any) on the top, nor such visible discoveries of fattiness, as it would have done otherwis • : and the setling at the bottom (which upon refrigeration seemed as great,☞ as if no egg had been mix'd with it, though the decoction or water were thicker much by reason of the additional yolk) did not carry so much unctuousness, being tasted, as did those other setlings, which I had tryed, without commixing any egg with them, either only once milling, or boiling them also. From whence I leave it to the more mature consideration of others to determine, whether the commixture of an egg be good, since it seems to hinder the dissolution of the Cacao into oily or unctuous parts; and whether it may not produce a like effect in the 〈◊〉 , as it does in the Pipkin, (Concoction being but a sort of Elixation) and so impede the nourishment expected from the Chocolata: it being oftentimes as true, Quae prodesse queant singula, juncta nocent: as that other Saying, Et quae non prosunt singula, juncta juvant. But these Experiments were made with the simple paste of the Cacao-nut, and not with compound Chocolata.

In Spain to Cholerick constitutions, and where there is any extraordinary heat, or inflammation of the Liver, or Kidni •• , I find, that there is a more milde and temperate way of Chocolata, then is usual, prepared: or else the usual one is diluted with Endive or Scorsonera water: and where Phlegm and Crudities abound, there it is prescribed with the water of Radishes, Fennel, or Carduus Benedictus, which (say they, though some in England protest against it) vary not the taste, but encrease its virtue. It is given thus by way of alteration, as are other alteratives, general Medicines being premised; and every sixth day there is either another gentle purge given, or the Chocolata is then dissolved in an infusion of Mechoacan, or the like. In the Winter it is drunk hot (being given to open Obstructions) and in the Spring it is drunk in a more moderate temper: after it they prescribe Exercise for an hour, or half an hour, which must be moderate: and this course is continued thirty, or at least twenty days, or indefinitely till they be well: which they will soon know, the pale recovering their colour, and the short-breathed their winde; the Vrine amending its colour, and consistence: and all Symptoms either mitigating, or ceasing. But, if the Obstructions be inveterate, and too difficult to be overcome by this method, then they prescribe every day half a dram of Rhubarb trochiscated to be mix'd with the Chocolata, or of Madder-root, or a dram of Steel prepared. And this is the Spanish practise, and from which Anton. Colmenero de Ledesma varyeth not much; as he, that shall compare him with my Intelligence, will easily see.

There is another way of drinking Chocolatte cold, which the Indians use at Feasts, to refresh themselves, as it is made after this manner. The Chocolatte (which is made with none, or very few Ingredients) being dissolved in cold water with the Molinet, they take off the Scum, or • rassie part, which riseth in great quantity, especially when the Cacao is older, and more putrefied: the Scum they lay aside in a little dish by it self, and then put Sugar into that part, whence the Scum was taken, and then poure it from on high into the Scum, and so drink it cold. And this Drink is so cold, that it agreeth not with all Mens Stomachs: for by Experience it hath been found, that it doth hurt, by causing pains in the Stomach, especially to Women.

I should except against this way, not for the bare coldness only, (thoughGul. Piso in Mant. Aromat. cap. 18. Piso and A • ton. Colmenero de Ledesma agree with Mr. Gage in the noxious effects of Chocolata drunk thus cold) but because of its nauseousness: for I found it to offend my Stomach with its coldness, more then if it had been pure water; and the nauseousness was insupportable, which did arise from the fat of the Nut dissolving in the water, and rendring it as odious, as would be fat Mutton-broth drunk cold. The Spaniards drink not the simple Cacao-paste dissolved in cold water, as do the Indians: but as that Nation is inclined to drink Snow, Snow-water, and Drinks refrigerated in Snow (which are more authenticated by custom, and iodisyncra • ie, then reason) so they refrigerate and freeze their solution of Chocolata, richly Aromatised, with Snow: and so the Gallants, especially the Ladies, drink it; reputing the Spice a sufficient corrective of the coldness, I caused some Chocolata of my ordinary sort to be boiled, and some I milled, the other part I did not; and drinking both of them cold, I did not finde any disagreement, but a pleasingness to my taste: yet was that unmilled very fatty. and nauseousness of it. I do believe, that it is not this way so nauseous, as the Indian way: but I cannot believe it wholesom, since so cold Drinks (before the heat of the Spice be actuated by the Stomach) do often make a fatal and irrecoverable impression upon the Stomach it self, and Lungs, and Heart,☞ and Womb; and is generally (not universally) condemned even as poyson by the Spanish Physicians, however that their authority is suspended by a contrary practise received in Madrid, and Sevil.

As to the time of taking it, it is held (by the Spaniards) the most fit time to take it in the Morning, and Supper being digested, and the Body fresh, and the Stomach empty to receive it; (or else it may be taken in the morning not upon the first stirring, and before any repaste, but after the taking of some other sustenance in a moderate quantity: (for then it seems most acceptable to the Stomach, and most necessary for the undergoing the employments of the subsequent day. Besides crude, and indigested, or depraved reliques of the last night's meal are hereby either It is an indubitable Truth, that after digestion, and descent of the Chyle into the guts, there are still some remainders in the Stomach, which by long fasting, or particular indisposition, do corrupt, and grow acid: such, continuing so, are not to be wrought on; but, if they be diluted by the mixture of warm Chocolata, Nature will then concoct it, as it doth Spirit of Vitriol, or the like with Julep. reduced under a second concoction for the use of the body, or outed the Stomach for its ease. The Chocolata it self also is much more easily concocted, and distributed, whilst there is not any thing else in the Stomach to delay, or retard its progress into the Veins, and vasa chylifera: its influence is then more sensible to dissipate any noxious Vapours. Which Effects are to be supposed to follow, if it be taken with moderation; being neither of too thickIf it be too thick, they say, it will obstruct: if it be too thin, it yields neither delight, nor nourishment considerable. a consistence, nor too large a quantity. Some there are, who have taken it usually, instead of Wine [which is their table-drink in Spain] at Diner, and Supper: but this hath not been sufficiently experimented, that it may be vulgarly permitted; since perhaps custom, or individual constitution, or a moderation in Diet, (which helps all errours, but is not vulgarly to be presumed on) may render it only innoxious to them. But it is certain, that it may freely be taken four or five hours after Diner, Concoction being then finished, and the meat not only dissolved in, but distributed in great part out of the Stomach. And so it will enable them to persist till night, or (if they eat no suppers) the day following. Nor need any fear, that being taken at such a time as four or five a clock, it will prejudice his sleep the night following: for such accidents befall only those, who take itMr. Gage (Ch. 16.) saith, that, when he purposed to sit up late to study, he would take a cup about seven or eight a clock at night, which would keep him waking till midnight. I took it my self twice at ten a clock at night, and I think it did render me less sleepy then ordinary; though I am usually one of little sleep. late at night, and not so early, as it is here recommended: or where the Chocolata is too hot of Spices, so as that it begets too great an agitation and servour in the blood; which may befall any body: or where the body is of so hot and Cholerick a temper, that it cannot bear Chocolata moderately spiced, or compounded with milde Spices. But in Phlegmatique Persons, and such as are aged, it is observed, that it causeth them to rest excellently well.

They further caution us, If we be dry, or in Summer, not to drink Chocolata till we have first drunk some cold water, [which is instead of Beer to them in Spain, when they drink not Wine] lest Chocolata [as it is now compounded with Spices, and Sugar] should produce, or augment our thirst. And, after we have drunk Chocolata, they strictly prohibit all manner of Drink; for, whether Water or Wine be drunk after it, there do frequently ensue very dangerous Diseases, and Symptomes. A very observing Spanish Physician assures us upon his own knowledg, some have been thereby immediatly seised with a vertiginous indisposition, and giddiness;I have been ascertained also of these accidents by one, who lived many years in Portugal, and made Chocolata there. others with a Cholera; very many have falle • speechless. It is also prohibited by them as hurtfull in Fevers, [because prepared otherwise then by the Indians] as augmenting the Disease. So they prohibit it in Fluxes, by reason of its lubricity to encrease the already excessive laxity of the guts: yet they confess it hath sometimes been beneficial in Lienteries.

But, in conclusion, my Author tells us, that It is a certain thing, that however these Cautions may seem rational, yet it is not observable, how the drinking of Chocolata can be reduced under any certain model of Rules in the taking it; since it is become so universally used [in Spain]☜ that it is taken at all hours, and times; it is the delight of the Masters, the sustenance of Families, and the grand entertainment of Friends: quia jam sine illo vitam nesciunt; because they know not how to live without it.

There is another way of taking it made into Lozenges, or shaped into Almonds, with Orange-flower water, Amber-grise, Sugar, and the white of an Egg, gum-dragant, and perhaps some other Ingredients. As to the former way of making up Chocolata into Lozenges, or Cakes, and so eating it, my Spanish Author gives it this Character, (which indeed extends to both sorts) mandendo, aut in buccellis comedere, insuperabiles obstruction •• creat, seu dum fiunt bellaria cum saccharo, aut in pasta • omeditur: To eat Chocolata in Cakes, or otherwise by bits, begets insuperable Obstructions; that is, if you eat it made up into Confects or Sweatmeats with Sugar, or in Paste. I cannot, I must confess, pass so general a sentence on Chocolata: I suppose the Opinion of it is to be regulated by the goodness of the Chocolata that is ea • en; and that I leave to be examined by my precedent Discourse about the variety thereof. That the Cacao-nut is nourishing, there is no doubt of it; that the simple paste may innocently be eaten, I think too: but that Chocolata made up with so great a proportion of Sugar, and with such Spices, Oils, and Essences, as are used (all, or some of them) in the Chocolata designed for that use, I believe no Physician will promis • uously, and without distinction of Persons, allow it, but who hath another Opinion of Sugar, and Spicery (except what I have recommended) and Chymical Oils, and Essences, then I have in this case, or many other. It is true, Hippocrates saith, It is easier to be nourished with Drinks, then solid meat; and that They, who have need to be quickly refreshed, must be dieted with Drinks, or potable liquours: but these two Sayings make not for the giving of Chocolata in Paste, or Confects, no more then his recommending in sundry cases P • isanes of Barley doth encourage us to give to weak Stomachs barley • bread: or, because Almond-milk is good, therefore to recommend the Maccaroni of Italy so condemned by Fienus D • flat. Fienus. Should I say never so much for the one or other way, and evince them to be better, then any preparations of Almonds, and Pistachias; as I beliveve them to be: yet would they still be Sweet-meats, and consequently more used, I must say this in favour of the Cacao, above Almond and Pistachia-sweet-meats; that I cannot take any Sugar'd Drinks, or Sweet-meats without a sensible disorder of my blood: but I never found, that Chocolata, though drunk with a double proportion of Sugar, besides what is in the Paste, or Cake, did ever offend me; but refresh and comfort me very much: nor did the Chocolata-Cake eaten ever offend me, though I never found it to strengthen, or satisfie much, no nor the Nuts when eaten dry; which is a strange effect, yet perceivable to any that drink, and eat it, or the Nuts. Fienus. Should I say never so much for the one or other way, and evince them to be better, then any preparations of Almonds, and Pistachias; as I beliveve them to be: yet would they still be Sweet-meats, and consequently more used, then approved. And the Obstructiveness of them, how inveterate and obstinate soever, arises not from any particular badness of the Cacao-nut, but from the general unwholesomness of all Confects, and Sweet-meats. And this I shall not now make out by Arguments, (though it might easily be done) but by the instance given by Dr. Hart in his Diet of the diseased (lib. 1. cap. 22) and it is as follows. I remember, living in Paris 1607, a young Clerk, living with a Lawyer in the City, procured a false key for the Closet, where his Mistresses Sweet-meats lay: and for many days together continued thus to feast with her Sweet-meats, and loaf-sugar (whereof there was no small store) untill at length he became so pale in Colour, lean in Body, and withall so feeble, that he was scarce able to stand on his legs; insomuch that the skilfullest Physicians of the City, with the best means they could use, • ad much ado to restore him to his former health again. A little time will shew whether the use of these new Cakes will be as prejudicial to health, and productive of Consumptions, and other weaknesses of the back, or Hypochondria, in our English Women; as the rest of Sweet-meats have been: for it is the general opinion, that the multitude of Sweet-meats used by our Ladies is the occasion of our aforesaid Diseases so much increasing. I I shall not now enquire into the verity of the Opinion: for there are instances of Countries, in which Sweet-meats are much more used then here amongst us, and yet they • re not so molested, as we, with those Distempers. I say then, that the ill effects of Sweet-meats do but accidentally follow upon their use, and therefore we ought to examine those circumstances, that occasion his variety of effects: which I have not leisure to do, nor that opportunity, which I expect amidst the Sugar-works of the West Indies.

CHAP. VI.

The Author's judgment concerning Chocolata summarily delivered, as to its effects, and the ways of using it.

IT were easie to evidence the excell • ncy of warm Drinks above those, that are taken cold, if I had leisure: for certainly, if the use of Drink be to allay thirst, to moisten the body, and to distribute or help the digestion of the food we take; it is not to be doubted, but hot Drinks perform all this better then cold: and for the evincing of this to each point, both Reason and Experience might be alledged. For the practise of the antient Romans favours much hot Drinks; as every man knows; and the modern tryals of Campanella, and Gassendus Phys. Sect. 〈◊〉 l. 5. c. 1. Si habeatur ratio valetudinis, docet experientiae quàm saepe gelidae potus noceat, quàm nunquam potus calefactae. Gassendus, as well as Antonius Persius, doth manifest, that all the aforesaid ends may be attained by warm or hot Drinks: and particularly, as to the quenching of thirst, it is undenyable, that hot Drink not only quencheth it at present, but prevents its return, better then cold; and yields as much delight, maugre the assertion of Pliny, that all Animals desire cold Drink: and that musty Definition of Aristotelian Philosophy, that Sitis est appetitus frigidi & humidi: Thirst is a desire of cold and moisture; which is notoriously false, disproved by the Arguments and tryal of Gassendus as well as others. Yea Drinks, that are taken hot, surpass themselves in their effects, compared to what they do when taken cold. Thus hot water drunk daily before Diner cures the Stone, and Gravel in the Reins, as Zecchius affirms, and Trallian. l. 9. c. 4, 5. Trallianus: and the benefit others have found by it doth manifest. Wine drunk hot doth much more corroborate a weak Stomach, then when drunk cold; as Costaeus De puot in morb. lib. 1. cap. 52. Costaeus avows, and hath been tryed by several in Consumptions, to my knowledg. I shall not speak concerning the Decoctions of China-root, Sarsa-Parilla, and Guajacum, of which the same Assertion may be made. I have not leisure to insist hereon, nor the conveniency of my Library to aid my memory with citations at present. I suppose then, that, in general, Chocolata is rather advantaged, then prejudiced, by being an hot Drink.

It is of an unquestionable nourishment: for, as it is the chief sustenance of the Spanish Indies, this cannot be colourably denyed: and though Pope Vrban the Eighth did declare it in discourse, and by a solemn Bull, that it was meerly a Drink, and so consistent with the Fasts of the Church; yet few believe him infallible therein, who understand the Drink: and the Carmelite-Friers, by way of Mortification, have a Statute amongst them in the Indies, that they will drink no Chocolata. You will not finde Mr. Gage to take a journey, but he makes it an important care to provide Chocolata: nor is he singular therein; but follows the general example of the Spaniards. Whether he is treated publickly by Towns, or privately by particular Persons, his entertainment and refection is Chocolata▪ agreeable to what Acosta says,Lib. 4. cap. 22. It is a Drink very much esteemed among the Indians, wherewith they feast Noble-men, as they pass thorough their Country. The Spaniards, both Men, and Women, that are accustomed to the Country, are very greedy of it. The Nut is one of the richest commodities of the Acosta lib. 4. cap 22. Gage chap. 16. Benzon. lib. 2. West-Indies: and however some disallow the use of it raw, or roasted, others do repute it less obstructive, and more wholsom then they judge it to be. The Nut is of an exceeding fatty substance, being viewed in a Microscope: in a Iamaica-nut I could observe large and spreading Veins or streaks of white fat, which I suppose to make the fat, which appears upon digesting, or boiling it without milling it. Examining the Caraca-nut by a Microscope I could observe nothing of fatty veins, or streaks; yet is not that Nut leaner, then the other: I know not whether I ought to call it oyl, or fat; and for either appellation I may be questioned: but, give it what name you please, I dare avow, that one ounce of Cacao-paste well digested will yield more fat, then a pound of fat Beef, or Mutton, even when stewed. Besides the fat, which never so separates from the other parts, as to lose totally its bitterness, whereby it is preserved agreeable, and not nauseous to the Stomach, there is a red part, which principally contains the bitter parts: it hath been generally reputed as an earthy and obstructive thing; but, without doubt, it is as necessary, as any part of the Nut, and as little to be rejected: for it is that part, which fortifies the Stomach, and enables it to bear the oyliness or fattishness of the rest of the Chocolata-potion: it preserves the taste in its vigour, and the appetite, which would otherwise be dulled by the fatty potion: and as it helps digestion in the Stomach; so in the Guts, it promotes Concoction there; and corroborates them: all which is not to be denyed to parts of that relish, as we experiment daily in herbs of a bitterish taste: nor need we to fear its costiveness; for, as none ever experimented such an inconvenience by taking good Chocolata, so I think it impossible, it should bind; since it is fermentation, that we owe each stool to; and it is impossible what promotes that in the Guts, can ever create a prejudice by too great an adstringency. It is strange, that all Ages and Countries finde it to agree with them, and the effects of it are such every where, that it alone may seem to supply all food and Physick. I have heard and read Discourses of Panaceas, and Vniversal Medicines: and truly I think Chocolata may as justly at least pretend to that Title, as any. For indubitably Health is nothing else but an ability to discharge the several ends, to which Nature hath designed us: and this depends upon the preserving each individual person in the individual constitution, which Nature hath given him. For howbeit, that we propose to our selves the Idea (conformable to what Polycletus did in another case) of a man exactly tempered; yet it is not the intent of a Physician to reduce every Patient thereunto: to the Cholerick it is his nature, not disease to be so; and so for the other complexions: and to subvert the particular temperament, is to destroy, not to cure: and the attempt will not succeed. To preserve a Man herein, it is necessary, that his food be such, as digests well, begets good Blood and Spirits: and that this Blood (in which according to the Scripture is the life of Animals) be depurated so by the several emunctories, as that it may qualifie the party to exercise those acts, the performance whereof is an evidence of life; and the well-performance of them, Health. It is natural for the Blood to purge it self by several ways; and, if that be done, all the Operations of Life, and the intermissions of any of them, will be according to Nature. To imagine, that this can be performed by Medicines, is an impertinent folly: the Blood is more naturally purg'd by transpiration, and sweat; by urine, and siege duely discharg'd; by spittle, and snot; then by any Purges, or Vomits, or Electuaries, or Phlebotomy. It is not to be done much less by one Medicine; for though such an Arcanum were in being, as would depurate the Blood, and revive the decayed ferments of Nature: yet would it require other circumstances to effect this, as a moderation of Diet, and the six things non-natural, &c. without which it can do no more on the blood, then the mixture of barm doth to wort; it may be ready to produce a fermentation, but it will not open a bung-hole, or create vents for the Drink. Frequent Phlebotomy hastens old Age, besides other inconveniences: frequent Purges are much worse; for it is usual with Nature, when taught one course to pursue that to the discontinuing of other evacuations: so that, to teach Nature to disburthen her self into the Guts, and Stomach, (neither of which are designed for Vehicles or receptacles of Excrements remaining after digestion, or cast in there by Nature, but for a continued Concoction, prosecuted by Nature from first to last) is to teach her to omit her other evacuations, which are as necessary as going to stool, and (which is more) to accustom her to disburthen her ill Humours into those parts, the right Tone whereof is that, whereon principally Health depends.

Let us consider, how our Palat and Taste is disorder'd by the defluxion or redundancy of an insipid Salt, or sharp and Vitrioline Humour: let us examine the like inconveniences, when they befall the Stomach, and by this Analogy conjecture at the effects, which arise in the Guts upon the like accidents. And can we think it prudence to use Nature to discharge it self into that Chanel, so often as we do? View the World, and you will see, that not one of those, that constantly take purging and opening Diet-drinks; that deal so much in Pills of Scammony, and other such like Purges; not one of them, but is more or less Hypochondriacal: whereas those Country-people, which sweat, and labour, enjoy an undisturbed health, strength, and fresh colour.

To apply all this, since the nature of Health is such, as I have described it to be; and that it depends upon such means, as I have specified; it is undenyable, that there is not any thing hitherto extant in Physick, that may compare with Chocolata, which is not only mony in the Indies, but food, and Medicine too every where▪ It yields good nourishment, with this advantage, (wherein it surpasses all Wines, and Cordial Spirits) that its nourishment is not only quick, but less dissipable then theirs. It begetteth such Blood, as fitly depurates it self by Stool, Vrine, Spittle, and Sweat; as • have observed in my self: and consequently there cannot be any thing more apt to preserve Health, and vigour of Spirit. • must profess it to be the Assertion of the Indian Writers, ☞ that it opens Obstructions, provokes Vrine, and Sweat. I dispute not its temperament, be it hot, or cold, or impervestigable: but I shall tell my own Experiments, consonant to the Indian Discourses. I never could finde any such effects, when I took it mix'd with eggs, or milk: and indeed I like not much either of those ways, since the Nut there seems to differ much from it self, when prepared alone; as I observed in the dressing of it with the Yolk: and the same I have observed with the white, when commix'd the ordinary way; though I must needs say, that I have so put in, and mill'd the whole egg, that the whites have never curdled, though it hath been heated twice. But, to pursue my inquiry into the truth of the Indian assertion, I prepared it the Indian and Spanish way, and walking upon it, I felt my self to be seised with a gentle sweat, or moisture, and moderately to purge by Vrine, and to expectorate: and this I finde constantly to befall me, if I take it so: and it less offends the Stomach, and refreshes more▪ then any other way. Having been lately at a Fish-diner, I found my self not well after it; Coffee gave me no ease: but rather encreased the Distemper; till I forced my self to vomit several times: having done so, I went to bed (it being night) and drunk a large draught of hot Chocolata, prepared the Indian and Spanish way, and I suddenly fell into a sleep, and sweat: and so continued all night-long, and found my self perfectly well in the Morning. This effect seemed more strange, because many think Chocolata to oppose sleep, but I found my repose then very suddain, and lengthened at least three hours beyond what I usually take. Since that, I have sundry times taken it that way, going to bed, and I have found it no way to prevent sleep: nay, I never sleep better, then when I take it: and therefore I am ready to give this Reason for Mr. Gage's taking it, as often as he was to fit up; not to keep him awake, but to preserve his Spirits, which in the Indies need a frequent supply of food. Or it may be said, Since sleepiness, and natural sleep are tow things, that Chocolata may allay splenetique fumes, and drowsiness, and yet promote natural sleep.

And as Chocolata provokes other Evacuations thorough the several Emunctories of the body, so it doth that of Seed, and becomes provocative to lust upon no other account, then that it begets good Blood; that nourisheth much, and, as it nourishes, separates the already inexistent superfluities; or varies, and degenerates into new Excrements, which are to be discharged out of the body by their several passages, one whereof are the Spermatick vessels. If I do call the Seed an excrement, I am sure I have Aristotle's authority for it: which will make it the less a Paradox to the vulgar; whilst others Vide Prosper. Alpin. Medic. method. lib. 11. cap. 13. concur with me herein, who by Excrement understand nothing, but quod Natur a excernere decreverat, what Nature intended to excern: and that the Seed is such a thing, is undenyable, I think. The use of Venery is as natural, as for a Man to blow his nose: though not so lawfull every way; since even simple Fornication is prohibited theAct. 15. 29. Gentiles with as strict necessity, as the eating of blood, and things strangled: And however after-times have absolved themselves from the necessity, which prohibited the latter, by eating strangled Rabbets, and black-Puddings: yet have few or no Divines attempted the former, or alleviated it: howbeit that ***

Petron. De vict. Rom. lib. 5. cap. 1. Prosper. Alpin. Med. method. lib. 3. cap. 6. And it is an unquestionable Experiment, that moderate Venery eases the Chest, revives the Brain, impinguates the Body, and cures or contributes much to the cure of many Diseases in both Sexes: it is admirably effectual in hot Distempers, and madness of the Brain in young unmarried folks; as I have seen, both in Maniacks, and Melancholicks, whose Cure hath been more facilitated hereby, if not totally effected, then by repeated Phlebotomy, and extenuating Diet, and Potions, or Electuaries. Yea, I have known a Chronical Tertian break in the Spring by a Critical solution of this nature: which, however it may seem incredible, is I am sure true; nor had the Party ever before experimented those pollutions; but he did instantly recover, and was so far from being debilitated with a large Critical eruption, that he was beyond belief at that very time refreshed, and strengthened in his Spirits. I shall not insist upon the benefit Women receive • hereby: though I could recite an infinity of Cases out of the Physicians for Nunneries, that might be considerable herein; their Hysterical fits, Hypochondriacal-melancholy, Love-melancholy, Atrophy, their Spermatical Fevers (related by Sinibaldus in his Geneanthropia) are instances of the necessity hereof: and then the great prudence of Moses, who, if he severely prohibited, that there should be no Whore amongst the Daughters of Israel, he took great care for their timely marriage. As for Men, I have known many, who, being absent from their Wives but a few days, would be troubled with a smelling of the Testicles, or an unusual paleness, and stupi •••• of Brain seising on them, who would finde a constant and infallible Cure again in the embraces of their Wives. Nor is this passage designed by Nature alone for the evacuation of the Seed: I have shewed how a Chronical Tertian critically did break that way; and many other eruptions happen that way, then are Seminal. I mention not the virulent Gonorrhaea; but intend other Pollutions, and Ejections, which are recorded in the books of the Roman Casuists, especially • Gerson de pollutione nocturna. And, if I be thought immodest in this Discourse, I am sure the Chancellour of Paris is never named (no not by Protestants) but with honour, notwithstanding what he hath writ; and there are Passages in the Bible, that retrench, as much upon Civility, as any thing, that hath falle • from my pen: and I treat of nothing, but what is as much included within my Profession, as within the Subject of Casuists; and why should I be more blamed? Is it not one of the ends of Marriage to prevent burning? yea, is not this the principal Argument insisted on by the Protestants in the behalf of a marryed Clergy?****

Let us then take it for a certain Position, that What yields the best Blood, and promotes all naturall expurgations, is the best of Food, and Physick. And that Chocolata is such, appears by what I have already said. I cannot allow it to be Provocative upon any other account: (if it be prepared without any lust-full Ingredients) and it hath this advantage above the most substantial Butcher's meat (the taking whereof with chearfulness, and manly exercises, is the best Venereal preparation) that it allays, with its milde and vegetable Oiliness, the sharpness of the Blood, and Nervous Liquour, which the animal Sulphureousness of the other does not. There can be no Universal Prescript for the promoting seminal Excretions: yet, since it is a part of Physical Institutions, and treated on by every English'd Institutionist, I shall enlarge thereon, for the benefit of the married: which is a justification always sufficient for these kind of Discourses.

I take it for granted, that there is a particular ferment implanted in the Testicles, and Seminal parts adjacent, whose Nature it is, after that it hath lain digesting, and maturing for so many years (viz. twelve in Females, and fourteen in Males; more, or less, according to the individual temperament) then to exert it self, and to vigorate the Blood, so as the whole body, as well as voice, suffers a great change: the Aspect becomes more lively, and chearfull, their Wits more ripe, their Carriage more debonair, their Nerves more agile: in fine, I may here accommodate, as to the age beginning to be qualified for thoughts of Love▪ what the Comedian said concerning Love it self, Ade • ne ex amore quenquam immutarier, Vt non cognosces eundem esse?

This Seminal ferment in i • s first operations doth only impregnate the Blood, and nervous liquour, circulating, and passing through those places, in which it resides, with a new and unspeakable vigour, and sprightliness, without occasioning any excretion, or seminal congestion in the Testicles, or prostate, but inclining to erect: for the operation of each ferment hath its time, and requires a determinate Subject to operate on. Thus Lads have Venereal prol • sions▪ yet without emission; because the Seminal ferment doth enlive • their Blood, without any separating of seed thence: for the Blood, and proportionably the Liquor of the Nerves, is not of the same nature in Striplings, as it is in men of fuller growth; there being in the former a great deal of Phlegm with a small quantity of Spirit, and vol • til Salt, whereas the latter is of a much different nature: and consequently, the effects of the Ferment are not so powerfull in the former, as in the latter.

From this Consideration it is easie to finde out a reason, why Striplings are longer before they eject, then others, and yield not so much pleasure to the Female they embrace. Their Seed being without doubt clogged with Phlegm, which doth more slowly issue out, and, for want of Salt, and Spirit, doth not so affect the Womb, that receives it, as doth that of a grown man: and this is the reason, that one man differs from another in the pleasure arising from his embraces▪ and a Woman, accustomed to the Society of one Husband, may either not love him, or prefer another, with more excuse, then the vulgar allow, or apprehend: there being a very great resemblance betwixt the Womb, and the Stomach, and as great a possibility, that the one is capable of loathing some—as well as the other may do some Meats: and of this, as to the variety and difference betwixt Woman and Woman, or betwixt the same Woman at one time, and at another, I have been assured by Men of great Experience, as also by sundry eminent Writers, as Vlmus, Campanella, and Sinibaldus: and Martial many times insinuates it.

Whilst it is not natural for this Seminal ferment to act, so long the Blood needs no such evacuation; and the attempts of it are prejudicial to the Health, untimely Venery hastening old age: but, when the Blood and Nervous Liquor becomes acrimoniou • thorough the abundance of Spirit, and Salt, and that it is impregnated by the Seminal ferment, as water passing thorough Minerals: then it is natural for it to depurate it self by a separation of Seed in and about the Testicles: and that, being separated there, is not reimbibed into the Vessels again usually, (for in some Cases I believe it to be) but it will force its way out in nocturnal pollutions, or create perpetual inclinations to lust; or, in part remixing with the Blood, after it hath been long extravasated, it begets redness and Pimples in the face, acrimony of Blood, Sputation, Oppressions of the Chest, Palpitations of the Heart, furliness of Humour, disturbed Sleeps, Head-aches, a peculiar Distemper in the Brain, as (together with its Cure) is more evident toVide Prosper. Alpin. lib. 3. Med. Method. cap. 6. sense, then to be expressed by language.

This is the nature of Man, who in Paradise was to encrease, and multiply; and by the fall his Nature was d • bilitated, not lost▪ In his book Aug. de civit. Dei lib. 4. cap. 23. & 24. The whole Passage, being too large to insert here, is put in at the end of the book; to illustrate the effects of Adam's fall; and as an Apology for this Discourse against severe Censurers. concerning the City of God it is avowed by St. Austin, that Adam in Paradise, before the fall, could have erected at pleasure, and that the motions of the flesh were so perfectly subordinate to his will, that he could as easily have moved his—as his hand; a constant vigour and immortality of spirits attending him, and being entailed on him, whilest he continued in that condition: but, since the fall of Adam, those amorous inclinations are less constant to men, and depend upon other circumstances, then the dictates of his Will. The effects of Grace bestowed on Adam are endeavour'd to be supplyed (where youth, or Nature fails; the efforts whereof are infinitely short of the pleasures of Paradise) by Salt, or Spiced meats, Cullises, and Iellies. But neither A • choves, or Bononia-sawsages; no Preparations of Cock or Lamb-stones, or Diasatyrion equal that primitive condition: nor do the Fruits in Iamaica call'd Cushu equal the feeding of the tree of Life, as to this point. Some are provocative only by producing a strong and well-digested nourishment. Thus solid and substantial Butcher's meat, and the like, are the only lustfull sustenance to a good constitution, and strong body, inured to vigorous Exercises: for the performances of the bed are not created therein. Ease and soft-lying do but effeminate the body, and they become unable to concoct strong meats: and the Seed becomes worse-digested, and, as I may call it, worse-relished for the Gusto of the Womb; I hope the Presbyterians will consider this, and no longer condemn the Chocolata drinkers for Luxury, and Venereal inclinations: since it seems manifest, that there is no Venereal projects like to your constant Diet: viz. a Cawdle in a morning, milde, but hearty▪ a diner of solid meats, a good Sack-posset with Eggs & milde Spice, at night; and all day a moderation in drink, and exercise. the erection is less vigorous, and the spirituascency of the seed little; and the ejaculation too suddain, weak and improportionate to the ardours, and desires, and expectation too of the Female Paramour. The Nourishment, that ariseth from substantial meats, and of full growth, is less dissipable, and more impregnated with animal Salt, then the young, tender flesh, or liquid sups: they require and preserve a strong Stomach; which lighter meats do not: and exercise depurates the Blood, separating out the several excrements by distinct emunctories, whereby the Blood is better concocted, and capable to yield a more vigorous Seed, and to bear its ejection more easily, then otherwise it would. The Nerves and Muscles are more tense and strong; the Pulse is more full and strong after waking, then in the sleep: and every Man experiments the truth hereof in himself. To a good Constitution if you give Wine, Spiced-drinks, or other Delicacies, or Luxurious provocations, you destroy his Stomach, and debilitate him. These Incentives are only for the Phlegmatick. The others (especially the more hot) are more provoked by cooling things, and what fixes rather, then heightens the Spirits. Thus Rachel purchase Mandrakes for Iacob. Thus the amorous and Martial Turk drinks Opium, and Shirbet, to continue his lust, as well as strength: and however the generality prefer the yolks of Eggs, the most observing Vide Petron. De vict. Roman. lib. 3. cap. 19. De ovis, & lib. 5. cap. 16. Qui etiam ad sobolem procreandam majore irritamento, plurìque semine indigent, hos & efficaciùs & suaviùs concubituros, si priùs, quàm uxorem ineant, ferculum ex lacte • v • rum, quae tremula nuncupantur, cum pane recenti, quemadmodum lac ipsum comeditur, • riduùm quatriduúmve manè & vesperì ante cibum assumpserint. Neque in hoc casu praesidium aliud ullum huic par esse, sive pipiones cum vino rubro, cum Aromatibus, sive Diasatyrion in medium adduxreis. Petronaus, and others, who have tryed it, bid me say, there is not any thing in Art, that equals the white of an Egg mix'd with some temperate Cordial emulsion, or beaten with Rose-water, and mix'd cautelously (to prevent Curdling) with some streined water-gruel, or the like, and sweetened with Sugar. And being prepared this last way (or with Rose-mary-Posset-drink) it is an excellent thing for any Cold, or for a weary Traveller, causing him to rest well, and reliveing his strength, so as to diminish or take away all wearisomness occasion'd by hard travail. Others will be the more inclined to this Opinion not by tryal, but common reason: it being the White, out of which the Chick is shaped; the Yolk being entire, when the Chick is almost ready to hatch. It is an albugineo • s substance, out of which we are created, and fed in the Womb: and the Seed ejected hath a more then ordinary resemblance, in its colour, consistence, and spirituascency, to the white of an Egg. Besides, it is the white of an Egg, which makes the bread, cakes, &c. to be light; your Yolks commix'd make them heavy: the one allays all acrimony of Humours; the other encreases Choler, and augments the evil Humours in the Stomach by being easily depraved. In summ, I think it can hardly be imagined, that the Yolks of Eggs be good food; since the taste of them upon the Stomach, after the eating of other meat, is a sign of ill-digestion. And indeed the taking of the aforesaid Preparation of Whites of Eggs is never more necessary, then after those amorous conflicts; when the Nerves and Blood are weakened by the late effusion, and the vigorous performance of those Venereal Exercises, in which the whole body suffers a very great agitation, and the Sinews a tension answerable to the stretching of a chord; the whole Blood boils, and the Brain labours proportionable to the passion of the Inamorato: who, if he be not of too hot a Complexion, exchangeth those transports, and pleasing languours, which conclude these dalliances, for a delightful slumber; but, if he be of a more Cholerick, or hot constitution, the disorders of his Blood survive his delights, and diminish them much by rendring him Melancholy, or peevish, and either immediatly, or not long after creating him an head-ac • , which is not allayed but by the next night's repose. To prevent this, our wise fore-fathers in England made it a custom each Wedding-night to provide a Sack-posset with Eggs for the Bride-groom to eat of, going to bed; and also to stand by him all night, that he might eat of it, as often as he pleased, to recruit his Spirits. I should recommend the like practise (either mixing his whites of Eggs with gruel, or Sack, or Sack-posset-drink; and omitting, or lessening the yolks) to every Lover, as often as he is engaged, taking of it immediatly after he hath ended his sport: whereby he will (provided it be not too thick) prevent the inconveniences of the past conflict, and be enabled for another.I cannot rely upon my own experience in any part of these amorous Discourses, and Observations: but I owe it all to the acquaintance I have had with Persons, the vigour of whose Spirits, as it made them learned and eminent Philosophers, so it did incline them to render to love. It being observed by the Marquess Malvezzi, that Men of great parts are not chaste by Nature, but Grace or Prudence makes them to be so. But, as to the taking of the white of an Egg in gruel at night, I have for some years scarce used any other Suppe • : and I finde it to refresh my Spirits, which are taken up with perpetual contemplations, and to allay all ardours of the Blood, and vapours, whose acrimony might disturb my rest, and to remove all weariness occasion'd by study, or travail. As for Chocolata, how effectual it may be herein, I understand not by experience: but, since the most amorous Nations in the World drink it, it is very possible, it may conduce thereunto much. If it be the design of Physick to preserve Nature, and free her from superfluous collections of Humours; and nothing doth that better then Chocolata, as far as Venery is but the Collection and • jection of a superfluity gathered in, and about the Testicles: without doubt Physicians cannot decline to recommend it. It chears the Spirits, begets good Blood, and opens all the Emunctories of the body, and passages, by which Nature designs the ejectment of some particular Humour. And this is to be understood of the Cacao-paste, and milde Compositions of Chocolata, in which there is nothing, that doth beget a particular fusion in the Blood, and a titillation inclining a man to Venery beyond the natural disposition of the Person.

What I have hitherto spoken had no further intent, then the support of that Nature, which God gave us, and which, as I have shewed out of St. Austin, hath been much impaired by the fall. I know many will be apt to censure this Discourse, as tending to sensuality, and the upholding carnal lusts and desires: but I suppose the more prudent will acquit me from any such imputation; since that is not the use, but abuse of Chocolata, and is common to it with all other meats of good nourishment: against which I do not hear them so to declaim, as to interdict them totally. I am not ignorant, that there is a Doctrine of Mortification, and that we ought to suppress carnal lusts: but I am to learn, that this is to be understood literally; and that we must geld our selves like Origen, or Chastise our selves with the Papists, and not understand all those Doctrines spiritually, and like good Protestants, defying the exercises falsely called Spiritual by the Popish Friers, and Iesuits, who practise this literal Mortification: whilest we imagine that carnality may be subdued by other means, captivating the Vnderstanding into the obedience of Faith, and subduing our wills, not breaking our backs; and denying our lusts, whilst we preserve a Nature and temperament given us by God. I expect the greatest censure from those, who disclaim Fasting-days, and Ember-weeks; who keep Lent with Capon, Sack and roast Beef; which is their Luxury: and what they condemn in others is but a different and less solid Luxury, then what they pursue.

I am not any way disposed to instruct Men in evil, and would not seem to encourage them therein: and, to evidence this, I shall now speak concerning the more compound Chocolatas, which are made, or used on purpose to augment Venereous inclinations. The things usually designed to exstimulate Nature to excessive Venery are very hot, and Aromatical, and which also carry with them an acrimony, or saltness, wherewith they continually excite Nature; which being incessantly provoked thereby casts out whatever is next, whether it be well or ill-concocted Seed, or Phlegm, or Blood impregnated with a saliness. It is not heat alone in meats, that doth it: for the effect of Cloves, Cinnamom, and Nutmegs, or Mace is not equivalent to that of Pepper, or Salt, and Saltmeats. These last operate by introducing a momentany or lasting saltness, or acrimony in the Blood, which, as it circulates thorough each part, makes different impressions, according to the different Nature, or indisposition of the part. And, if any disease introduce any acrimony or Saltness into the Blood, the same Persons will be much inclined to Venery, thus those, who have the Itch, and Leprosie, as also the Melancholick Persons are exceeding amorous; however the last bear those evacuations very ill; and the lying long, and on soft beds, and living idly, doth render Men lascivious; but these are not natural, but morbid inclinations, and therefore are neither executed with that activity, nor hath their seed that relish, or gusto in the Womb of the Feminine consort, that attends vigorous and active Men. For ease and idleness retard transpiration: and those Humours, which should issue out according to the several intents, and passages of Nature, being retained, or resumed into the Blood again, introduce an acrimony into it, whereby Nature is exstimulated to an ineffectual Venery. Thus, after long Agues, or the recovery out of Chronical Diseases, a salacity possesses the Patient, which as it ariseth from no other cause, then I have already specified; so it is prejudicial to the Person he embraceth, for hereby Diseases are transplanted oftentimes, as the Pocks, and Consumptions: or new ones introduced, of which the poor woman is not apprehensive, being ignorant of this cause lying in the constitution of the seed of her Husband newly recovered, or newly having fill'd his Veins with acrimony, or saline humour, occasioned by some late entertainment. And when I consider seriously the multiplicity of Distempers, which affect our English Ladies, so as that such as were very healthy Virgins, become very sickly and infirm Wives, and some recover again as soon as they are Widows, I cannot but think that many of their Diseases may arise from the seed, which their Husbands inject, and are fomented so thereby, that all Physick becomes unsuccesfull, because they do not totally refrain each other's Bed. I am very confident of this Opinion of mine, that it is true: because several have assured me of a great discrepancy they could feel in the seed of their Husbands at several times, and that they were variously affected thereupon.

I shall evidence this by a notable History of Laurentius Hofmannus, De usu & abusu Medic. Chym. pag. 124. Et ego ipse nobile par conjugum mirabili morbo afflictum vidi, quos hoc ipso [sc. Mercurio vitae] feliciter curavi. Casum itaque hunc mirabilem, & vix auditum, lubet apponere. Quotiescunque maritus rem cum uxore juvencula formosissima habere cuperet, maximè haec trepidabat, concubitúmque illius reformidabat, pr • ptereà quòd plerumque, post seminis masculini, calidissimi, & foetidissimi, effusionem, exanimis in thoro j • ceret: foetor enim seminis adeò abominabilis fuit, ut ferè semper post coitum in animi deliquium inciderit. Interim tamen quinque annorum spatio decies concepit, & molas, vel 〈 in non-Latin alphabet 〉 peperit. In consilium itaque vocatus, Mercurium vitae marito, uxori verò alia convenientia exhibui remedia; quibus Deus ità benedixerat, ut non tantùm magnâ cum dulcedine nobilissimi conjuges deinceps amoris poma • decerperent, sed etiam anno sequenti parentes audirent. That is, I knew a noble marryed couple troubled with a strange sort of Indisposition, whom I successfully cured with Mercurius vitae. I shall report the Case, it being rare, and unheard of. As often as ever the Husband conjugally embraced his Wife, which was a Person of extraordinary beauty, and youth, she used to shiver, and tremble, and feared nothing so much as his amours: because that for the most part, after that she had received into her womb the seed of her Husband, which was very hot, and of a most stinking scent, she used to swoon away: for so abominably noysom was the seed of her Husband, that it was no sooner injected, but it caused faintings and swoonings in her: yet did she conceive, and miscarry ten times in the space of five years. Being demanded my advice, I gave the Husband Mercurius vitae, and to the Wife other suitable remedies, which had so great an effect, by God's blessing, that the two Noble Personages did enjoy each other with a great deal of pleasure, and she brought forth a living childe the following year.

Nor is this repugnant to what we daily observe in uterine injections, which differently operate according to the different Ingredients, and Qualities. And if it be so herein, how much more ought we to allow the truth hereof in Seminal injections, which as they are injected, as are the former, so they are received with much more ardour, the conflux of Spirits thither occasioning a greater tension and heat there at that time, so that the contagion pierces deeper; as Infection is sooner caught by the hot, and sweating (the pores being open) then by the cold, and chill.

Lest the Women hereby should upbraid the Men, and boast the hazards they run by Marriage: I must crave leave to tell you, that there is as great variety in their Sex, as in ours; and that every one, that wears a Petticoat, is not capable, nor merits the affection of a Man, how beautifull soever she may be: nay, commonly it may be said, that the fairest Persons (where a mixture of white and red accomplishes the face) and the best shaped are fitter for Mistresses, then Wives, and yield a more pleasing entertainment in a Balcony, or Coach, then Bed. I shall not alledge the Reasons, though they are irrefragable: but only add, that it were easie to write an Apology for those, who, having marryed such, continue not their affections beyond the first moneth, or year. It is for such that the Proverb of Hony-moon was designed: and if any can continue a long affection for such, either the Man is extraordinary good, or cautious, or the Woman extraordinary cunning; or else he is a Novice, who, having no experience of the Sex, imagines all to be as his Wife is; as that Romane Dame supposed all Men's breath to stink (she having never kiss'd any else) because her Husband's did so. I could here enlarge upon the Reasons, why a Man may love eagerly and constantly a deformed Person to the prejudice of a beauteous Lady, and assert the commendation of Ronsard to Pasithea, or the Queen of Navarre, whom he represents to be Of Complexion rather brown, then fair. With which agrees the choice of Solomon in the Canticles: I am black, but lovely. But I shall only add, that it is an undenyable thing, That there is not that Variety, or certainty of Accidents, that befall a Man, so as to render his Embraces distastfull, or fatal (excepting the French Pox) to any Woman, that there is in most Women, to render them unfitting, or unworthy the Embraces of a Man: so great an alteration doth Age, Child-bearing, Sickness, and the like, introduce into the Womb, as to its Natural Make, or Original Ferment. Nor are Men either to be separated for the reality of their applications, and professions, before marriage; because they live not up to them, after it: or to be censured so bitterly for inconstancy; because they persist not in their first Affection, and Declarations: for perhaps the beautifull Lady is changed; or did by Surrender acquaint him with Discoveries he knew not before, nor could make: and therefore, if he proceeded by that Rule, which his sight and utmost enquiry gave him, he acted as well as Man could; but he still might be deceived in the Conclusion: but that, being deceived, and knowing himself to be so, he should act, and comport himself as if he were not so, is a constraint every Man's Spirit cannot submit to: and therefore it is to be excused, as well as the principal frailties, whereunto Humane Nature is lyable.

The truth of what hath been already said being granted, I shall suggest two Conclusions therefrom, which I think inevitably do follow: viz.

1. If it be true, that the collection and ejection of Seed in Man, (or Woman) is a natural act, arising from the Blood depurating it self, and the Ferment of the generative parts particularly operating upon the Blood; then ought they no more to be forced, then those other natural Exreetions are, of Snot, Spittle, Urine, &c. which we do not promote, but when their deficiency is, or may be troublesome: nor do we evacuate, but when we are sensible of their redundancy.

2. If it be true, that there is a great discrepancy not only betwixt the Seed of one Man and another, but betwixt the Seed of the same Man at one time, and another; which is occasioned as well by the Food, and Physick he takes, as by alteration of Age, or Sickness: it is then very considerable what Provocatives a Man takes, or a Woman gives to provoke lust, or conjugal desires, lest the Nature of the Seed be depraved, and the Woman incurr harm thereby.

It likewise concerns the Woman to have a particular regard to her self, that she may with equal ardours meet the embraces of her Husband: she must know, that to retain his affection more is necessary then solemn promises, and joyning of hands in the Church, or the continuing of her beautifull aspect and shape; these may acquire, and fix a Servant, but not an Husband: she must therefore take care, that her Blood be every way sufficiently depurated, upon which depends the Vigour of Body, and Minde; to the effecting whereof more is requisite, then I can now propose.

Active Complexions are only to be preserved what they are: all forcing destroys them. These therefore must have a milde and temperate sort of Chocolata; not enriched with any sort of Pepper, but that of Iamaica, nor any other Spice, then of the West-Indy growth. They need not natural heat; and the aforesaid Composition will sufficiently enliven them: but, if any debility of Stomach, or accidental weakness befall them, they may vigorate the Chocolata with a glass of good Canary, or old Malaga-Sack, when they mill it up; or take a more rich sort, but yet short of those hot and fiery Compounds used by the Spaniards. The Phlegmatick Tempers, if also abounding with ill Humours, must take Chocolata cautiously at first: premising a Purge, and taking some gentle Lenitive once in six or eight days; left it beget too great a fusion of Humours in his body: and he must begin with milde Chocolata, and after take richer and more effectual Compositions. Nature endures not violent and suddain changes. I once had a Woman came to me to complain of the unactiveness of her Husband; who was, to see to, a lusty able Man, but Phlegmatick, and of • muddy aspect, as if Cacochymical: she desiring of me some powerfull Electuary to add courage and life to him: I prescribed her one agreeable to what Vanninus in his Dialogues recommends; not doubting, but he would propose the most effectual in that kind, Leachery being his greatest Moral vice. He had not taken it many times, but it created in him desires altogether unusual; but, in the midst of his and his Wive's delight, he fell into a suddain fit of an Asthma, which had almost ended his days.

In reference to both these Considerations perhaps it is, that in Italy they now condemn Chocolata, if we may believeOritur Aspermia ob rerum impensè calidarum usum, quae semen, & succos, è quibus prodit exsiccant, & exhauriunt; ùt ruta, mentha, camphora, & alia id genus malefi • a naturalia: quibus addi potest nova illa forbitio, ex calidissimis herbis ab Indis parata, quam vocant Chocolate. Haec enim Seminalem succum arefa • it adeò, ut qui illam frequentant, brevi tempore aspermati fiant. Sinibald. Geneanthrop. lib. 15. tr. 1. cap. 20. Sinibaldus; because it was found so Provocative, that in a little time it rendred the Men impotent: like those Plauts, which, if they be suffer'd to run to Seed, dy that year. But those Italians know no Chocolata, but what is of the Spanish-make, and abounding with Chilli, or red Pepper.

I shall speak no more concerning the use of Chocolata, then as it is prescribed in Hypochondriacal Melancholy: because that this doth merit a particular enquiry; for sundry do commend it therein. Paulus Zacchias in his Italian Treatise of Hypochondriacal Melancholy mentions it, and saith, It is not to be allowed in that Distemper, but with a great deal of judgment: since he cannot believe, but it is rather hot, then temperate. And Piso saith, he knew none in Holland to receive hurt by the use of Chocolata, but such, as were troubl'd with Hypochondriacal heats: from whence we may collect, that, in his judgment, it could not be allowed them. Yet I have known learned Men here in England prescribe it in the Case aforesaid. I shall, with submission to better Judgments, solve the Question by distinguishing the several Compositions of Chocolata, and accommodating them to the Disease controverted. In Hypochondriacal Melancholy we are to consider how there are great Obstructions in the Mesa • aical Veins, and Chyliferous Vessels, so that no other Chyle is distributed into the Body, but what is apt upon the least occasion to ferment, and boil: which as it is perceivable by the Patient in the whole Body, so the multitude of Arteries in the Spleen, and its communion with the Stomach (by what ways I enquire not, but the Communion is undeniable) make it primarily and most evidently perceivable there. There is also a Debility of the Stomach, which is so relaxed, that it neither digests the Food received, well; nor emits it, being digested: so that it corrupts by long stay in the Stomach, (the Body being costive in the mean while) and grows sowr, and so corrodes the Stomach, and whatever is ingested, it presently begets a great conflict in the Stomach, attended with acid vomitings oftentimes, and the whole mass of subtle and sharp Blood is likewise affected, and put into heat and disorder, especially the Hypochondria thereupon. Thus they ar • never well, full, nor fasting; and pine away, complaining of a weak Stomach: which the Italian and Spanish Galenists considering, thought the Disease to proceed from a cold Stomach, and not from an Aqua Stygia, or the like Menstruum in the Stomach, made up of the several Salts, and Tartars, extracted out of the different meats eaten, and a redundant sharpe liquour issuing out of the capillary Arteries, and coats of the Stomach, into the Stomach: for as the blood is in such very serous and sharpe, so is the Humour transuding into the Stomach heigthened in its acrimony, and augmented in its quantity beyond measure. Now, the Question is to be understood, praemissis generalibus, general Purgings being d • ely premised, and opening Physick administred. And in this Case I answer, That hot-spiced Chocolata (and especially what hath black, long, or red Pepper in it, whose Nature it is to create an acrimony, as well as to heat the Blood) cannot agree with the Stomach; because they will more heat and inflame the Blood, then is tolerable: and this is confirm'd by the experience of Piso. But, as for milde and temperate Chocolata, I doubt not, but such a sort might be made, as would exactly suit the Disease, and contribute much to the recovery, being given in water, not mix'd with milk, or eggs; but given the Spanish and Indian fashion: and the water it self being such a water, as will not stay in the Stomach, but pass immediatly into the Blood, and void it self by Vrine. To confirm my Opinion, do but consider the Nature of the Cacao-nut, and paste: it is very nourishing, it allays vapours and ebullitions of the Blood; it is not apt to sowre (as gruels, and broths of meat, or China-root instantly will) and it keepeth the Body soluble, and moderately purges by Vrine. All which Indications we are to aim at in the Cure of this Disease. It also corroborateth the Stomach by its adstriction, it allayeth the sowr Humour by its unctuousness (which floats not on the top, but accurately commixes with the liquour) and its bitterishness, then which there is not any thing else more gratefull to a weak Stomach. Add to these Considerations, that Chocolata is a liquour, and that the Cure of Hypochondriacks depends upon humectation (seeing that Melancholici, si bene humectantur, bene curantur) and there is not any thing can occasion a scruple, but the addition of Sugar: which how far it may agree, is to be determined by Experience, since otherwise it will be condemned by Reason. But, should it not agree, the Cacao-paste may be prepared for Persons deeply Hypochondriacal without Sugar, or Spice, except a few Anise-seeds, and powder of Santals, or Sassafras, and dissolved, upon occasion, together with some Bez • ar, or any other Stomachical Preparation of Antimony, or whatever will saturate that esurive Humour upon the Stomach, and open Obstructions. Being thus given, I cannot imagine, but it must be a very effectual contrivance for the desperate Hypochondriacks, being regulated by a diligent Physician, and an observant Patient: without which it is impossible to effect that Cure; which is tedious, and requires circumspection, and variety of remedies to carry it on. As for those, who are afflicted with that Distemper, I suppose a milde sort o • Chocolata, with a mixture of Spice, and Sugar, may agree very well.

The other Virtues of Chocolata in Hysterical fits, and Asthmas, or Consumptions, I I have not time to in • ist on: from what I have said, and shall say about the way of using Chocolata, any Physician will be able to collect how it is, or may be used in such like Cases.

Concerning the variety of Ingredients in Chocolata, and the several frauds in making it up, I have already spoken so much, as I need not to enlarge again: only as to the Addition of Achiote, I hear the use of it is condemned by one of our most learned Physicians, as being prejudicial to the Head. I could never yet hear what Motives he had for that Opinion of his: for in all the Indian Writers I do not remember any such thing; I have already represented their Testimony, and that is the voice of Experience in Comprobation of the use of it. I never found any inconvenience by the use of Achiote (which is an Ingredient in my ordinary and royal Chocolata) nor do I hear of any, that does. I would rather adventure to recommend the use of Achiote, since, without heating, it doth powerfully attenuate all gross Humours, (and the Blood of us Northern People is more gross, and less fusile, then that of the Spaniards, or Indians, and we are prone to Coughs, stoppings of the Chest, and Asthmas, by reason of our gross feeding, and the thickness of the Blood, whereby it is apt to obstruct the Lungs) and since it doth make the Chocolata to agree better with the Stomach, then otherwise it would. I have faithfully declared already the judgment of several Writers concerning Achiote. It is generally put into Chocolata by the Indians, and Spaniards, and Portugheses; and that none should ever observe in it a particular repugnancy to the Brain, or a quality, that might give ground for such a surmise (which I cannot by my taste) is very strange: and how probable the thing is, let others judge.

Since the writing of the aforesaid Passage I have received the complaints of a fair Lady, who thinks, that taking of my common Chocolata with Achiote in it, the Head-ach (whereunto she is Naturally, as well as by her condition of being with Childe, prone) is encreased; and that it doth create a more then usual heat in her Face, and Body; and indeed I my self, taking for sundry days of the same Chocolata, found, that, taken in Paste, or liquour, it did cause in my Stomach and Body a greater and particular heat, which before I never felt. To finde out the cause of this Accident, I examined the Person, that made it up, and I found, he had varyed his Achiote, and used a new parcel, (which to me seemed not so good) which in the same weight did yield a deeper colour by farr, and occasioned, as I thought, the aforesaid Case, w • ich did not happen when I used another sort, which to me seemed more pure, then the last used. But I did further observe, that the Chocolata complained of did promote Expectoration beyond any other, I ever took to eat, or drank: so that I conceive, in Case of Asthmas, and stuffings from Phlegm, such a sort of Chocolata might agree well. As to the heat of Achiote it self, I could not perceive any more in the last, then in the other; nay, I must profess, I think, that five Grains of the said Achiote, taken by it self, did not so much heat me, (nay, it did not cause in me any sense of heat) as did half a Dram of Chocolata-paste already mentioned: yet in sixteen Ounces thereof there was but one Scruple. And this Consideration puts me in mind of the Indian remark, that Achiote (though destitute almost of Taste, and Smell) doth amend the Taste, and Smell, (which it may do, as well as the heat) of the other Ingredients. And though it be not sensibly hot, yet by its penetrancy, and the great attenuating faculty it hath, it may occasion some Distempers in the Head, where the Blood is already so attenuated, that it admits no further Rare faction without indisposing the Head, which (according to Mechanical Philosophy) must needs receive a greater afflux of Blood, the thinner it is. In the choice of Achiote I can only give this Rule, that it be solid, not soft, rather pale-red, then deep, free from seeds, or greenish hulls within; and not musty. As to the quantity to be put in, I finde it is impossible to determine the proportion, by reason of the variety of Achiote: but take the Indian Rule, recorded in Ledesma, to put in as much, as will colour it: (and that not deeply) and adhere not to what was prescribed me, viz. half a Dram in each Pound: which though it proved well in the first Essay I made for His Majesty, the Achiote being singular; it hath since displeased me.

The way, in which I choose to take Chocolata, is sometimes to mix two parts of water with one of milk, and to dissolve the Chocolate-paste therein with an Egg: for I care not for milk alone. But most usually I take three quarters of a pint of good [Conduit] water well-boil'd, and dissolve in it (stirring it frequently with a Spoon) one ounce of Chocolata, and two ounces of fine Sugar: having let it stand before a moderate fire to dissolve, when it is so dissolved, as that the liquour seems very fatty with a yellow fat, and that there sticks to the spoon an undescribable unctuousness, or oyliness, (however that the Chocolata be not half dissolved, but that a great part of it still swim in great stakes, and small parcels, up and down) I proceed to mill it very well, and then set it to the fire again to dissolve more perfectly: and having, let it stand a good while (even till it be ready to boil, of near upon it) I mill it once more with great diligence: and then either drink it alone (which is the common Indian and Spanish way) or putting in one Egg (white and yolk) without ever beating it before breaking it into the water, and immediatly milling it very hard, sometimes playing the molinet (and that most, at first especially, to break the Egg, and hinder its curdling) on the top of the water, and sometimes at the bottom. And I have observed, that by this course the Chocolata (when taken without an Egg) becomes better tasted then otherwise it would: and, if an Egg be put in, the Chocolata is farr better dissolved, and swims with a greater oyl or fat on the top, then if the Egg were put in sooner, and never so long milled. Nor doth the Egg harden, or curdle, if dropped in whole without beating, but dissolve better (if nimbly milled, and that towards the top, where the Egg floats at first) then if it were beaten much, and put in afterwards by little and little.

I prepare no more at once, then I drink that time: not that I feel any offensiveness in what hath been once heated, and cold, before it be heated again for me: but because I finde an observable difference betwixt fresh and old Chocolata-liquour: the Spice evaporating their more subtile parts. But the discrepancy is not such, as is in Pottage, or Gruel, &c. twice heated: nor do I know what reason the Spaniards have to prohibite so severely the use of Chocolata twice heated. I drink it moderately hot, and dip a piece of diet-bread, Mr. Gage Chap. 15. to begin his journey drinks Chocolatte, and eats a Maple-bread with a little Conserve:—and in the s • me Chapter, that we may know how hot he drank it, he calls it a scalding cup of his Chocolatte. or wig, &c. in it. I drink it without proportion, but commonly half a pint, or more: and this I do twice or thrice in a day (nay, before Diner) with a sensible refreshment; finding it to ke • p my body soluble enough, as I could wish; though otherwise I am inclined to costiveness. Sometimes I put in a spoonful of Orange flower-water; which gives it a most excellent taste, if the water be good: sometimes (if I am faint with business) I put in a glass of good Canary, or Malaga-Sack: in which I imitateVide Lipsium in Elect. Stuckium lib. 3. De Conviviis Mercurialem, &c. the antient Romans, who did usually mix their old and well-bodyed Wines with hot water, which in several houses, call'd Thermopolia, was kept always ready for entertainment. And this practise of theirs is asserted by Campanella for the most wholesom way of drinking Wine. And Costaeus Augen. Epist. t. 3. l. 10. Ep. 30. tells us, that for a weak Stomach there is not any thing more profitable, then a draught of hot Wine; which I have known experimented in England with good success, not only in the case mentioned, but in sundry Atrophies, and Consumptions. And Vallesius Valles. Philos. Sacr. tells us, that, however it be Proverbially said, that Wine is the old Man's milk, yet is it indigestible, if it be not first heated. I have sometimes Aromatised it with a few Sassafrass Chips, not unpleasingly. They, who would put in emulsions, or the like, must dissolve, and mix the Chocolata with less water, and having mill'd it well, then put in the emulsion, &c. and mill it again.

As to the times, whereat I take it; I observe none particularly, besides the taking of it in a Morning, and Evening: sometimes sooner, sometimes later, as occasion permits. Nor do I regard the quantity, taking frequently a pint, but usually above half a pint: eating tosted wig, or diet-bread often with it. What it may do to others, I know not; but I never found my sleep retarded, or distu • bed by it: it is possible, some may finde it otherwise; for, if Sleep be a relaxation of the Nerves, and vacation from sense thorough wearisomness of the Organs, what corroborates Nature, and dispells wearisomness, may (without its disparagement) retard sleep.

I have often wonder'd to hear upon how inconsiderable causes many complain; though they have no occasion to sleep: yet, if they sleep not at certain times, they entertain strange thoughts of their danger of sickness, and condemn the occasion of it presently. So, if they eat not flesh at least once or twice a day, they repute their Stomach to be lost, and imagine they must dy: not regarding, that the end of food is to repair the defects of Nature, and prevent its decay for the future: and, when we enjoy these ends, we are not to be solicitous of any particular means further to procure what we already possess. To Eat, to Drink, to Sleep, were there no need thereof, were folly: and he makes Reason submit to Custom, or Conceit, who Eats, Drinks, or Sleeps, when he is sensible, there is no necessity of it; and incurs by a superfluity dangers, he would avoid. Nizolius, the great Ciceronian, slept not of ten years: others have watched longer (as you may read in Heurnius De morb▪ cap. cap. 17. Heurnius) without prejudice. Several have never drunk, and others have, to avoid a Dropsie, or the like, for a long time refrain'd all Drink; and done as well, or better then others: and the case of Rabbets, Sheep, and sundry Birds, evidence the possibility of the Antient and Modern Relations in this case. As for Eating, except the Maid of Confolans (recited by Citesius) I can hardly credit any, that have subsisted without that: but without doubt a greater temperance might be practised therein, then is used. And, upon the aforementioned Account, some cry out upon Chocolata, as if it destroyed their sleep; others, that, taking it, they can eat no Diner after it, it preventing their appetite thereunto: but, would these people be pleased to think, that Chocolata feeds more then their Diner, of the loss of which they complain, and that they are in no danger of dying by hunger, whilest they f • ed hereon, the formality of eating a se • Meal would not be insisted on. I must profess, I never could observe in my self any alteration of my Stomach by drinking Chocolata in a Morning: and, if any have, it is because their Stomachs are weak, and that their Diner would not digest well with them, if they had it. Is it not sufficient, that Chocolata offends not their Stomach? and that their Blood depurates it self (upon the taking thereof) by Sweat, Vrine, Stool, and Expectoration? Let them but consider, how apt Meat is to corrupt on the Stomach; how little it agrees with a weak Stomach; and how binding its remanency, or earthy parts (as they call them) are: since that in Fluxes it is recommended Vide Alex. Trajan. Petron. De victu Roman. for an excellent Remedy to give the reliques of the meat, out of which all the strength is Boil'd or Pressed in Jellies and Cullices:) and let them see how much they are hurt by being put by such a Meal.

I shall conclude with this Advise; that however the Chocolata be good; and that such, as stand i • need of quick refection, are to be fed with Drinks; which yield a more speedy nourishment, then others: yet is there Caution to be used in the taking even of the best: for thus my Spaniard directs, whose Prescript agrees with my Chocolata Royal almost.

In quantitate hujus potionis sumendae, & vicibus numero repeti • is, est prudens certè cautio adhibenda: nam, si plus justo, & pluries quàm calor Stomachi ferat, ingeratur, tunc adhuc robusto Stomacho multum negotii facessit, & vices repetitae onera sunt plenis, & maximè quando non ad tollendam, sed ad irritandam famem queritur; indè enim pallor, & nervorum cruditate madentium tremor accidit, & miserabilis ex cruditate macies; indè distentus venter, & decolor vultus; aliquando vertigines, & capitis dolores, & fortè longa febris, & insuperabiles varicosae obstructiones, unde Hypochondriaca Melancholia, & ex varia multiplicíque cruditate affectus planè contrarii: iis tamen malis minùs erunt obnoxii, qui se non tantis deliciis solverint; qui sibi prudenter temperantes imperabunt, & Corpora opere & vero labore exercebunt: hos enim innoxiè non tant • m Chocolate, sed cibus excipiet, qui non nisi esurienti potest plac • re. Necesse est enim, ut ex discordi cibo morbi contrarii etiam oriantur: & haec nobis hodiè unica videtur ratio, quare in Hypochondriaca Melancholia tam confusae & contraria, & longè inter se dissimilia observentur accidentia; & in plerisque Febribus ex contrariis naturae partibus, quae in eandem compulsa redundant. Et hanc propter rationem apud aliquos reor Chocolate noxii opinionem subîisse; non quòd il • ud sui ratione mereatur: quinimò, si temperatâ frugalitate adsumatur, magnas utilitates omnes expertum iri, nobis est indubitata fides; neque displicet, subhac frugalitate, post pran • ium & coenam (maximè moderata) parùm de Chocolate pitissare; ut utroque calore suam digestionem perficiat Stomachus, & indè facultates roborentur, ac, plerisque impedientibus ablatis, meliùs perficiatur coctio: quod te experientia feliciùs docebit, & moderatio usum securiorem faciet. (That is,) There ought to be a great caution, and prudence, used in the number, and quantity of those draughts, we take of Chocolatd; for, if it be taken in too large a quantity, or too frequently, so as Nature cannot overcome it, it becomes troublesome even to the most strong Stomachs, and often usage makes it a burthen, especially, if it be taken rather for wantonness, then necessity, to cause, and not allay hunger: for from this cause happens Paleness, tremblings, and Palsies of t • e mo • stened Nerves, and a miserable leaness occasioned by Crudities; the Belly is distended; the Countenance is discoloured; sometimes Giddiness, and other Aches of the Head, and Chronical Agues, and Fevers, and insuperable Obstructions in the Varices, as also Hypochondriacal Melancholy, and Diseases of a different Nature springing of several Crudities: but such are least obnoxious to these Distempers, as do not debilitate themselves with Luxury, who command their Appetite, and keep their Bodies in much exercise; for these may take not only Chocolata, but other sustenance at any time without danger: no food being good upon a full Stomach; for from a repugnancy in the meats ariseth a repugnancy and difference of Diseases: which is in my judgment the reason, why in Hypochondriacal Melancholy there is observed such a variety of Accidents, as also in many Fevers, by reason of the several Heterogeneous parts commixing occasionally together. And I suppose, that the aforesaid cause moved many to imagine Chocolata to be somewhat hurtfull; not that it really deserved that imputation: for, if it be moderately used, it is my assured perswasion, that all will finde great benefit thereby. Nor am I against it in them, that practise such moderation, if they take it afterSo did Motezuma, as I shewed in the beginning out of Bernaldus del Castillo. Diner, or Supper (both of them being moderate) that so Nature, having her own heat augmented by the accessional of Chocolate, may better concoct, and strengthen the Faculties, and dissipate what might impede digestion • . And this Experience will teach: and it is no less true, that it is moderation, that makes it safe to take Chocolata. I shall conclude this Discourse with the Judgment of the Learned Roblez, Physician in Peru, which is as follows.

The Judgment of Roblez a Licentiate Physician in Peru concerning Cacao, and Chocolata.

EL Cacao es frio, y seco, de su templansa: y per esto tienen partes astringentes, con que opila. Esta oi el mas valido de quantas mercadurias oi: y esta tan adelante, que ai majorasgos fundados sobre sus heredades, de a dies, y dose mil ducados de orenta. Es el Cacao summamenta alimentoso, por don de hace dudar de su templansa. El aceito, que sale del, quando se cuesse, es blanco, y granujado, que mas pareoer manteca. Sacasse tostandole en casuela de barro, y no es bueno en metal. Muelesse el Cacao en la piedra, y con mano de piedra, estando calientes ambos, y echa masa, se pone en puchero al fuego, en las brazas, y en tomando calor sale encima la manteca, y aceite mas rubio que la llama, y de s • mis • o sabor: ass • mismo se tuesta para hacer la bebida. Pero quando le uan moliendo, o passiando por la • piedra, le mesclan, anis, canela, y algun clavo; echando a tres libras de Cacao, dos onsas de anis, una de canela, y media de clavo, con esto, passan por la piedra dos o tres vezes, y luego le echan en caxitas, ole hacer paneci • los de a onsa, que as lo que adellevar una Xicara de bebida: este es el Chocolate regalada, y mas sano, y el, que bebe la gente regalada: otros le echan harina de mais, y en la Nueva-Espanna viscocho, molido, pero esto de mas de hacer, el Chocolate de poca dura, es enfermo, por que la harina, que le echan, no cosida, aun que va tostada es de mal mantenemiento, y causa opilaciones, y otros mil achaques: tanbien le mesclan en otras partes con Achiote, por ser a proposito para la orina: el modo de hacer la bebida, es este. Lo cuessen • esaziendo la pasta en proportionada cantit • d de agua, poco mas de medio quartillo, y dos onsas de asucar, una de Chocolate, y cuesse en una olleta uno o dos hervores al fuego, y le dan con un molinillo hasta llevantar espuma, y quanto caliente se puede se bebe; el que se bebe desta manera, se tiene por mas sano: no soi de parecer, se t • me muchas vezes, por que inquieta el cossimiento, y carga el estomago de muchas crudesas. El Cacao comido confitado, por la tarde quieta el suenno des tod • la n • che. Solo es bueno para los Soldados, qu • estan de posta. La mantera del Cacao es d • grande provecho, para las inflammaciones, y para qual quiera fuegos, y quemaduras; y sobre todo, para el tiempo de las virvelas, y serampion, y ampollas, y llagas, securan untandose a menudo, con a quel aceite, para el principio, aumento, estado de la Erysipela: es gran sedante, y el major anodino para el dolor, que causan sus costras, y postillas: para los labios abiertos, y grietas de las manos, y en elrostro: para las enzias, que manan sangre con dolor, se les quita effectos bien contrarios, pero mejor conocidos por la experientia.

That is in English as follows.

THe Cacao-nut is cold and dry in its temperament: and thereby it hath parts adstringent, wherewith it obstructs. It is at this day the most rich Merchandize in the Indies: and it is of so high an esteem, that they settle by right of Primogeniture on their Eldest Sons Farms of Cacao, which yield annually twelve thousand Duckets. The Cacao nut is exceeding nourishing, which makes People doubt concerning its particular temperament. TheRather fat. Oyl, that comes from it, when it is boil'd, is white, and imbodies intoAnd into bigger bodies too, upon long infusing, and decocting. Grains, which seems rather to be a sort of butter: it is to be extracted by roasting in a large earthen pot [such as we bake meat in] and it doth not well in a brass vessel. The Nut is grinded in a Stone-Mortar, with a Stone pestel,This is better done on a Stone-table. both of them being hot; and, being made into a paste, it is set on a Charcoal-fire • in a Pipkin, and, as it heats, there rises up to the top the butter, This is true, if the Cacao-paste be long digested on the fire, and never mill'd: and it is to be seen only whilst it is hot; for, being cold, you have • only a fatty water, and some large lumps of fat floating, whilest the lesser grains sink, or strike against the side, all in very different and irregular figures. and an Oyl more red then the flame or fire [of Charcoal;] both having but one taste. In like manner it is roasted to make the Drink. And, as they grinde, or beat it up in a Mortar, they mix with the Paste some Anise-seeds, Cinnamom, and a few Cloves; adding to three pounds of Cacao two ounces of Anise-seeds, one of Cinnamom, and half an ounce of Cloves: with which they grind it on the Stone two or three times: and then they put it into little boxes, or they make little Cakes of one ounce-weight, which is the proportion of Chocolata to make one draught. This is the Royal Chocolata, being the best, and most wholesom, and which is drunk by the Nobility, and Persons of the best rank. Others mix with it the flower of Maiz: and in New-Spain they mix therewith the fine Powder of Bisket-bread: but this sort of Chocolata la • ts not long to keep, is not good, but weak; because the flower of Maiz, which they put in, is not boil'd, and prepared; and though the Maiz be prepared by roasting, yet it yields but bad nourishment, it begets Obstructions, and a thousand Aches, and Distempers. In other parts they mix with the Cacao-paste some Achiote, which serves to provokeIn those hot Countries men are very apt to be troubled with retention of Urine: which is the great reason, they still mix in their Compositions what provokes Urine; it being usual even here for those, that sweat, and transpire much, to make less water: wherefore we see, that in Colds the Vrine is more then ordinary. Urine. And the way of making their Chocolata-drink is this. They scrape the Cacao-paste, and dissolve it in a proportionate quantity of water, to a little more then half a pint of water they put in two ounces of Sugar, and one of the Paste of Cacao, and they let it boil in a pot one or two woulms over the fire, and then they mill it, till it rise with a large froth; they drink it as hot, as they can possible: and they, that drink it so, think it to be most wholesom. And I am of the Opinion, that it ought not to be drunk too often: because it disturbs If it be taken too soon after meals; in which it hath no peculiar inconvenience, but what is general to any Sustenance: and it hurts least, because less apt to corrupt, then other food is. Concoction, and loads the Stomach with many Crudities. The Cacao-nut being made into Confects, [as Almond-confects are made] being eaten at night, makes Men to wake all night-long: and is therefore good for Souldiers, that are upon the Guard. The Cacao-butter is excellently usefull in case of Inflammations, and any scalds, or burns; and especially in the small-Pox, and pustulous Tumours, and eruptions from heat, and Bruises: they are cured by anointing therewith in the beginning, encrease, state, or declination of the Erysipelas, or St. Antonie's-fire. It is a great cooler, and allayer of pains created by Crusts, or Scars upon Sores, and Pimples, and in chopped Lips, and Hands, and Face, and Gums, which bleed, and are dolorous. It produceth effects very various, and contrary one to another, which are best known by Experience.

An account of the Distillation of the Cacao-nut perform'd by Mr. Le Febure.

WE took eight Ounces of the Cacao-nut, and, without hulling them, beat them to a gross powder, and put them in a Retort: we found the body so fix'd, that with an ordinary Fire there came nothing over, but a white liquour in a very small quantity, so clear as water: which we suppose to be the Phlegm. Then we encreased the Fire to such an heat, as if we had been to draw Spirit of Vitriol: then there came over (within the space of seventeen hours Operation) first a Spirit, that was as white as Milk, in Vapours; and, whereas all other Spirits usually ascend in the Recipient, these did descend, and fall to the bottom: and after that (but with a great reverberating Fire; such as he never put to any Vegetable) there came over the Oyl, which was red as blood, but clear; resembling any Tincture for clearness: after it was cold, it became thick, like to the Oyl or Butter of Wax for consistence.

The Caput Mortuum weighed one ounce, and seven drams; of the Spirit there was about two ounces: and the remainder Oyl, three ounces and an half; besides what was lost in filtrating, and other contingencies▪ Upon Separation, the Spirit was as red as blood, like to any exquisite Tincture of Santals; however it were white in the first distilling: which is to be attributed to its being commix'd in the distilling with the subsequent Oyl. The Spirit was not very hot, but exceeding penetrative, and not unpleasant as to smell, or taste, as other Spirits drawn from blood, or flesh, are. But, however it had not any empyreuma, nor had that odiousness, which attends Spirits drawn from flesh, yet had it an evident affinity (but with a peculiar in mildness) with flesh. The Oyl was not very unpleasant, but miraculously piercing, (the Volatile Salt, of which there was a great quantity, being unseparated) and had an unexpressible Aromaticalness upon the tongue; and seem'd very much to delight and refresh the Heart, and Stomach: but with a great resemblance still of flesh.

The Caput Mortuum had no taste at all, was exceeding light, and carryed with it in smell Testimonies of an affinity with fat flesh, when broiled.

We had not time to pursue a more accurate enquiry into the several Liquours, and Parts, into which the first appearances of this Distillation might be further resolved: but that there may be a very great exercise for further Curiosity in the Distilling of this Nut appears hence, that the Spirit in a short space became not only turbid, but sowr, and manifested it self to contain a Vinegar: which is not yet examined; but the Honourable Robert Boyl Esq hath promised to make some Essays about it. I would not have any offended at the novelty of finding a Vinegar in the Cacao; for it is an acid ferment, that we owe our digestion to: and we ought rather to admire the Nature of this Nut, which includes in it self not only Principles for nourishment, and food, but even of concoction: and from hence we may observe, what it is, that makes it so agreable to all, even to the weakest Natures. Besides Mr. Boyle told me of several Oyls, he observed in it upon Distillation, the several effects and differences whereof are not yet, through want of time, discovered.

I have nothing more to add now, being just ready to go on Ship-board; but that I have since met with a Person, whose long Converse and Curiosity in Spain have enabled him to judge of Chocolata: he informed me of many things so, as to satisfie me, that the course I make Chocolata by, is exact: and that, what I have taught Mortimer to make, hotter then my ordinary way, is the true Chocolata of Guaxaca, and most celebrated in the Spanish Court. And I am to acquaint the Nation with a piece of his Intelligence, which was my own Conjecture before, that to make Chocolata into Sweetmeats, and Almonds, it is this Chocolata of Guaxaca (a Present of which I designed for Her Majesty, had She arrived before my departure, and some whereof is in the hands of the Lady Wood) wherewith the said Confects are to be made: for milde Chocolata will grow insipid upon so great a commixture of Sugar. Any one may have it at Mortimer's made for them, if they be-speak it by the name of the Queen's Chocolata, as the other bears the name of Chocolata-royal, which had His Majestie's approbation. There is a sort of Chocolata made by Sir H. Bennet, which, if I have seen the right Prescript, is conformable to what I understand to be the practise of the Spanish Court: yet differs a little from mine, and hath a greater proportion of red Pepper, then I allow English-Men, however it may suit with the Female Sex pretty well. It hath Musk in it in as great a quantity, as I put Amber-grise in mine: but I think Musk not so healthfull in many; for it begers a great fusion and fermentation in the Blood, so as that it causeth it to boil, and colour the face: besides that a little Musk chewed is observed to make wounds to bleed; with many other Instances, which I have not time to recount, but shall in the next Edition; with Experiments of my own about it in the making of a sort of Pies with Almonds, Pistachias, Marrow, &c. and Musk sometimes, sometimes Amber-grise▪ which as it is a Dish I love sometimes, so was I pleased with several Observations I made by putting Musk and Amber-grise in it. If any will have any made with Musk, and those other Ingredients, which a little diversifie it from my Chocolata-royal, or that, which I call the Queen's Chocolata, I have told Mortimer the way: so as they may have it either milde, or as hot as Sir H. B. makes it.

The Gentleman further informed me, that he found Chocolata to keep his body soluble (as did my much Honoured and Learned Friend Dr. Quatremaine, Physician-in-Ordinary to His Majesty:) and if it ever fail'd to do so, he then took it in bed, half an hour before he rose, and it never fail'd to give him a S • ool, as soon as he was up. He told me, he used to put butter in his: and he told me, that they used to take it in Spain after they have taken a little conserve, bisket, or a salt bit in a morning. He further told me upon his Experience, that, being desperately vex'd with the Piles, he took the Butter of Cacao (which is the fat I mention, that arises from digesting the Cacao's simple paste in water, till the Fat be drawn out) and melted it, and anointed therewith, and it did not only cure him presently, but that he never had them since. I have not time to enlarge on the several Experiments I have since had account of: but I have many more Rea • ons to recommend it in case of Hypocho • driacal Melancholy. But I must conclude, adding the Discourse of St. Austin, which I hinted at before, because it contains some Observations not ordinary in Physick.

The Judgment of St. Austin in his Book Of the City of God: which was too large to be inserted before, pag. 136. Lib. 14. Ch. 23.

THis Co • tention, Fight, and altercation of Lust, and Will, this need of Lust to the sufficiency of the Will, had not been laid upon the wedlock in Paradise, but that disobedience should be the Plague to the Sin of disobedience: Otherwise those Members had obeyed the will, as well as the rest. The seed of Generation should have been sown in the Vessel, as Corn is now in the Field. What I would say more in this kind, Modesty bids me forbear a little, and first ask pardon of chaste ears. I need not do it, but might proceed in any Discourse pertinent to this Theme, freely, and without fear to be obscene, or imputation of impurity to the words, being as honesty spoken of these, as others are of any other bodily Members. Therefore he, that readeth this with unchaste suggestions, let him accuse his own guilt, not the nature of the Question.—

Ibid. Ch. 24.

Man therefore should have sown the Seed, and Woman have received it, as need required, without all Lust, and as their wills desired: for, as now we are, our articulate Members do not only obey our Will, our Hands, or Fe • t, or so; but even those also, that we move but by small Sinews, and Tendons, we contract, and turn them as we list: as you see in the voluntary motions of the Mouth, and Face. And the Lungs, the softest of all the Entrails, except the Marrow, and therefore placed in the Arches of the Breast, far more safely to take in and give out the Breath, and to proportionate the Voice, do serve a Man's Will entirely, like a pair of Smith's or Organ's Bellows, to breathe, to speak, to cry, or to sing. I omit, that it is natural in some Creatures, if they feel any thing bi • e them, to move the sk •• ther • ▪ where i • bites, and no where el • e; shaking of not only Flies, but even D • rts, or Shafts, by this motion. Man canno • do this: what then? could not God give it unto what Creatures he listed? Even so might Man have had the Obedience of his lower parts, which his own Disobedience debarred. For God could easily have made him with all his Members subjected to his Will, even that, which now is not moved, but by Lust: for we see some Mens natures far different from other-some; acting those things strangely with their Bodies, which others cannot do, nor ha • dly will believe. There are, that can move their Ears, one, or both, as they please. There are, that can move all their Hair towards their forehead, and back again, and never move their Heads. There are, that can swallow you twenty things whole, and, contracting but their Guts a little, give you every thing up as whole, as if they had put it into a bagg. There are, that can counterfeit the voices of Birds, and other Men, so cunningly, that, unless you see them, you cannot discern them for your hearts. There are, that can break wind backward so arti • icially, Lud. Vives upon this place tells us, that there was such an one, a German, about Maximilian's court, and his Son Philip's, that would have rehearsed any Verse whatsoever with his tail. that you would think they sung. I have seen one sweat 〈…〉 when he was sick of a Tertian at Bruges, as often as the Physician told him, it was good to sweat, he would but hold his breath a little, & cover himself over head in the be • ▪ and sweat presently. They, that saw it, wondered at his strange constitution; but they would have wondered more at St. Augustine's Sweater, that sweat as easily as one could spit. when he listed: and it is sure, that some can weep when they list, and shed Tears plentifully. But it is wonderfull, tha • divers of the Brethren tryed of late in a Priest call'd Restitutus, of the Village of Calaman, who, when he pleased (and they requested him to shew them this rare Experiment) at the feining of a lamentable sound drew himself into such an Extafie, that he lay as dead, senseless of all punishing, pricking, nay even of burning, but that he felt it sore after his waking. And this Rapture was found to be true, and not counterfeit in him, in that he lay still without any breathing: y • t he said afterwards, that, if one spake aloud, he thought he heard him, as if he were afar of. Seeing therefore that, in this frail state of ours, the Body serveth the Will in such extraordinary effects; why should we not believe, that, before his disobedience, the first Man might have had his means, and Members of Generation, without Lust? But he, taking delight in himself, was left by God unro himself, because he would not obey God. And this proves his misery the plainer▪ in that he cannot live, as he would.

FINIS.